The Overland Guide-book / A complete vade-mecum for the overland traveller, to India viâ Egypt.

THE
OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK;
A
COMPLETE VADE-MECUM
FOR
THE OVERLAND TRAVELLER,
TO INDIA viâ EGYPT.
BY
CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, H.C.S.

"Gloster—Knowest thou the way?

Edgar—Both stile and gate, horseway and footway.
Poor Tom shall lead thee.—Take my hand."—Shakspere.

SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
Wm. H. ALLEN AND Co.,
7, LEADENHALL-STREET.
1850.

[LONDON:]
LEWIS AND SON, FINCH-LANE, CORNHILL.

TO THE
CIVIL AND MILITARY SERVICES
OF
BRITISH INDIA,
THIS WORK IS DEDICATED,
WITH GRATEFUL RESPECT
AND
CORDIAL GOOD WISHES,
BY
THEIR OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT,
THE AUTHOR.

[INTRODUCTION.]

The purpose of this little volume, which I have now the honour to submit to the public, is to combine, in a compact and convenient form, all the information necessary to the prosecution of the journey Overland to India and vice versâ.

Scarcely a day passes that I am not asked, either personally or by letter, to guide some intending traveller in his arrangements for the trip, and even to advise him as to the preferable routes, the expense, the manner of the voyage, &c. Ignorance on all these points induces inapposite and irrelevant questions; and it is not unusual to find, at the end of correspondence or a prolonged interview, that the querist is as far from the possession of the knowledge he desired to acquire as he was when he first preferred his application. No clear and satisfactory information can possibly be obtained by a desultory conversation or fragmentary epistles; hence the value of a systematic and comprehensive arrangement of all the facts and suggestions pertaining to the subject.

There is another reason why I should put forth this Guide,—it completes, in a measure—as far, at least, as the great Overland scheme is in itself complete—my humble labours in the mighty cause of steam-communication between England and India. For the past fourteen years, I have earnestly and ardently advocated the accomplishment of this great object; and, though treated as a vain and visionary enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836!), my endeavours never relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned, therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when, looking back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions, I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant consummation apparent in the scheme now adopted and carried out by the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," and the "East India Company," not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese possessions.

I laboured long and strenuously; for I could not persuade myself that British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of extending commerce and civilisation, and of the approximation of our vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule, to be neglected. The great cause has triumphed,—some of my wildest dreams have become sober realities, and, while I feel grateful for the past, I am hopeful for the future.

Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with rebuffs and misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value, graciously transmitted through various channels. I may be excused for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian spirit,—it grapples comprehensively with the question, and corroborates the view taken by the late Lord William Bentinck, who expressed his opinion "that steam-communication with India would be cheaply bought at any price."

"BISHOPS PALACE, CALCUTTA,
"22nd of October, 1838.

"Dear Sir,

"I should never forgive myself, if I conveyed to you the accompanying resolution without, at the same time, assuring you of the sincere gratitude I feel in the bottom of my heart to a gentleman who has laboured so assiduously, diligently and successfully in one of the greatest cause that ever interested humanity.

"I can truly say, that the consequences, immediate and remote, of steam-communication between India and Europe defy calculation. Such a wonderful adaptation of science is full of 'the seed of things,' as was said of Lord Bacon's philosophical writings and principles two centuries since.

"The invention of printing, and the discovery of the mariners' compass, did not more immediately bear upon the happiness of mankind. The human family is now indeed approximating, and, by inter-communication of knowledge, the times may be expected to draw on, when the illumination of the more prostrate nations will be borrowed from the most remote and exalted.

"Allow me, sir, to conclude with saying that, not only as a Chairman, but as a man and a Christian, I have sincere pleasure in transmitting to you the enclosed resolution, and am

"Your most obedient,
"D. CALCUTTA.

"To Captain James Barber, "&c., &c., &c."

The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is now one of comparative ease and pleasure; and, as it is my intention to publish periodically a revised edition of "The Overland Guide Book," I shall feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will communicate with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers this route.

JAMES BARBER.

[LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.]

[THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK.]

The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, viâ the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longer be viewed as an experimental project; the great increase that has taken place in the number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts, details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called "The Overland Route," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage, from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his destination.

The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans, in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded by gentlemen, whose courtesy and sçavoir vivre are only equalled by their nautical experience.

Still in this—the comparative infancy of the steam route—nine-tenths of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most expeditious manner of proceeding thither; and it, therefore, becomes in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose.

Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled; and, as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail, the reader is left to seek, in the numberless volumes that have been published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which he may desire to mark with special attention.

The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for the object of this publication:—

Instructions and Hints to Passengers to Aden, Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, the Straits and China.

To Bombay.

Routes through France and Trieste.

From India, viâ Syra, Malta, Marseilles, or direct to Southampton.

Miscellaneous.

THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA.

The "Peninsular and Oriental Company" having contracted with Her Majesty's government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alexandria those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther.

The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours.

The charge for a passage varies according to the accommodation occupied and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company's ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed.

As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price, persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application and choice. On these points every information is most readily and courteously given at the office of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company." But if the party going be, from his absence from town or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves, but with all that appertains to them.

As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements of a passenger; for a simple statement of what the steamers do provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles not to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand-stand, looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or those "overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised; but it will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a counterpane or resai (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that, on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be carried from its place for such purposes.

The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month—provided the luggage be sent down in due time.[1]Passengers need not leave London till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend sleeping at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are in constant attendance; in fine weather, however, the distance is an agreeable ten-minutes' walk or less.

Railway trains from the Waterloo Bridge station to Southampton, in the morning, at 7·15 o'clock, 10·30 o'clock (mail); afternoon, 1, 3·45, 5 o'clock (express); evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail Sunday trains, morning, at 9 o'clock; afternoon, 5 o'clock; evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail passengers should be at the station at least a quarter of an hour before the trains start.

Passengers should embark at Southampton not later than 12·30 P.M.

The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching about in India, bullock-trunks, specially made at the outfitters, are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following dimensions, viz.:—length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth, 1 foot 2 inches, depth, 1 foot 2 inches, and to have their names and the port of debarkation distinctly painted on each package. No package or baggage should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt. The portmanteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury or breakage in handling.[2]

The following are the leading points of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company's" regulations:—

Passengers not proceeding, after taking berths, will forfeit half the passage-money. In case, however, of a passenger being unavoidably prevented from availing himself of a passage at the period for which it is taken, a transfer of the passage can be effected to a subsequent steamer, on due notice being given, without forfeiture of any portion of the deposit paid, and accommodation will be allotted as similar as circumstances will permit.

On either side of the Isthmus, three cwt. of personal baggage is allowed to each first-class passenger; but 16s. per cwt. is charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" for conveyance through Egypt on all baggage exceeding two cwt.

In the steamers, children, servants and second-class passengers are allowed one cwt. and a half each; 16s. per cwt. being charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" on all beyond one cwt.

A passenger engaging a whole cabin for the entire voyage, is entitled to take in the steamer four and a half cwt. of luggage; but is subject to the charge in Egypt as above stated.

Excess of three cwt. of baggage in the steamer pays freight at the rate of £1 per cwt., in the Alexandria steamers, and £2 per cwt. in the India vessels.

Any luggage beyond that allowed free must be put on board and paid for three days previous to the vessel's departure. Carpet-bags and hat-boxes only will be received on the day of sailing. The Company give notice that, all luggage (save as aforesaid) that shall be shipped on the day of departure will be considered as extra, and charged for accordingly.

Passengers taking articles of merchandise in their baggage will incur the risk of seizure by the customs' authorities in Egypt.

The Company do not hold themselves responsible for detention, damage, or loss of baggage.

As the allowance of baggage is on a liberal scale, and the freight of parcels moderate, it is hoped that passengers will not convey parcels or packages belonging to other persons, to the prejudice of the Company's interests. A contrary course will involve risk, delay and difficulty at the Egyptian custom-house.

Passengers will be expected to comply strictly with the regulations established on board the Company's steamers for the general comfort.

In the first instance, a passenger booking from England to Alexandria only, but who afterwards proceeds from Suez to India in this Company's steamers, will be required to pay such an additional amount only as will make up the sum, supposing he had taken his passage right through from his embarkation in England.

Lights to be put out at half-past ten o'clock, after which, no wines, spirits, &c., will be supplied, except in cases of illness, when application is to be made to the purser through the surgeon.

No wines, spirits, or beer, are to be supplied elsewhere than in the saloons, except in case of illness.

It is to be understood, that a passenger occupying a cabin of two or more berths, on the departure of the vessel, is not (unless he shall have paid an additional sum for its exclusive occupation) to object to the vacant berth being filled up at the intermediate ports, if required.

If there be any negligence, inattention, or impropriety, on the part of any of the servants, or any other ground for dissatisfaction, passengers are particularly requested to give notice immediately to the commander, who has full authority to act under such circumstances; and the Company would also wish to receive intimation of the same by letter, addressed to the secretary.

Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a passenger's luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still it is obvious that when a hundred persons are travelling with the speed of a mail through Egypt, every extra-package becomes an incumbrance, if not a positive nuisance; for it renders the timely arrival of those absolutely required very doubtful. It is, therefore, advisable that passengers should confine themselves strictly to the quantity of luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to have in India by the long sea route a month or two previous to their departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance and expense on the journey.

As by the Company's regulation no trunks, boxes or portmanteaus are allowed in the cabins of their steamers, passengers should provide themselves with a good-sized leather or carpet-bag, in which should be packed all the clothes, &c., required for immediate use; and this bag may be kept in the cabin and replenished from time to time from the trunks, to which the passengers have access every other day. This bag should be taken on board with the passenger; but the trunks and other baggage should be put on board two or three days before sailing.

We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers soon conquer the annoyance of sea-sickness; new acquaintanceships are rapidly formed; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time "the rock" is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be fairly appreciated.

Gibraltar.—From the title so often given to this pleasant little port and garrison—"the Rock of Gibraltar,"—the traveller expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its friendly visitors as it was unapproachable to our foes; instead of this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted with the sight of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and plantations. After the visit of the pratique officer, boats approach the newly-arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Griffith's Hotel offer temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller may betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted, by the brilliancy of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Commercial Square, formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction. The sales by auction carried on here all day, draw together a motley population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in picturesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are narrow, the houses low, irregular and ill-fashioned; yet are there a few public buildings worthy of a passing notice. The Exchange, erected during the government of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St. Mary, the court-house, the Moorish castle, within which are some remarkable excavations, the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the Protestant church, the garrison and library, are the principal edifices.

GIBRALTAR.

Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may be seen, on horseback or in carriages, easily obtainable, in a very brief space. Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port, where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly embla zoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this, are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this, a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington.

THE ROCK, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND.

Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michael's Cave, a great natural curiosity. The whole rock (Calpe) is hollowed out and perforated by caves. The fantastic forms assumed by the stalactites give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human hands. Martin's Cave, not far from San Michael's, corresponds in character with, but is smaller in dimensions than, the latter. The wild monkeys that inhabit the place afford much entertainment by their freaks. Extending the ride to Windmill Hill, we reach the Governor's cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be extended to Europa Point, Rosia, in the vicinity of which is the Naval Hospital, capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of the western side to Sand Port is a continuation of works, batteries and bastions.

As the period of the steamer's detention (six hours) will scarcely enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it necessary to extend our description. We will merely add, as a guide to those who are inclined to make purchases on shore, that accounts are kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in use.

After quitting Gibraltar, steaming along the coast of Algiers, you soon reach the famed island of Malta, where the outward-bound coming free from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are at liberty at once to go on shore and see the "lions" of the place.

If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other fruits, such as strawberries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears, are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling below 50° in the month of January, or rising above 88° during the summer months.

MALTA.

The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the Albergas; which latter are now converted into public offices or other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end of their construction and the various sections of Knights of St. John, under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised.

These Albergas are now appropriated to government offices; one is occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as courts of law, a fourth as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Office. The Auberge (or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English garrison; the Commissary-General tenants the Auberge de France—and so on.

The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form; the uppermost part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculpture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings illustrative of the life of the above-mentioned apostle. The pavement is composed of sepulchral slabs worked in mosaic with various-coloured marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights and other servants of the order. The grand altar, which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous, and deserves notice, on account of the various-coloured marble and other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the different languages of the order, which run parallel with the nave, form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are profusely carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view, as you pass down the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese knights. Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side-walls are two other paintings, representing some traditionary scenes in the life of that apostle.

Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the city, which belong to the Government: viz., the Church of the Jesuits in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the Virgin; the fulfilment of vows made in time of affliction, in order to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in peculiar veneration.

The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St. Paolo; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars; the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians, Carmelites, Franciscans, and the Minori Osservanti, or Reformed Franciscans, all of which have churches connected with their respective convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns; but the rage for this species of seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establishment is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few additions. Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the public. The Greek Catholics have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. By far the finest specimen of modern architecture is the Protestant church, built at the charge of Queen Adelaide, who sojourned for a short time at Malta.

Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di Pietá, the Government University, the public and garrison libraries (the building containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture in the whole town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco dei Guirati. There are several antiquities in the public library, together with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this library will enable the outward-bound passenger to obtain later information of the state of affairs abroad, than he might have had when leaving England.

The traveller who sojourns a few hours only in Malta, after walking in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt undulations of the island, frequently abandons all further interest in the spot—singular by nature and art—and reposes quietly on the information of some writer possessing little more actual knowledge of the island, but who may have furnished his readers with some highly-coloured descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover "a grain of millet in a bushel of chaff," we merely desire to introduce to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisure hours in visiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will find little difficulty in wending his way to any part of it; he may pass from one extremity to the other without a chance of molestation or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms; for Malta has professional and other beggars in abundance, the result of an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of the island and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently without a prospect of supporting a family.

Passing out at Porte Reale—the gateway at the top of the principal street of Valetta—and crossing the draw-bridge, the stupendous defences of the city become apparent—deep ditches—every approach enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon. From this portion of the works the road opens on the front of the public garden;[3]a narrow promenade, of considerable extent, confined between stone walls, on the esplanade between Valetta and the extensive suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna (the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes, reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the island of Malta.

Three main roads conduct to the different villages or casals, some twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of Pietá, Sliema, San Guiliana and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on the Pietá, one of the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile farther on is the populous and large casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the Pietá (without proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the country, and containing many good houses. Passing through the last-mentioned hamlet, a road (inclining to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara, and a carriage may go over the whole ground safely. From the eastern or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads, that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest and road indifferent; after passing by the front of the church, or rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts to San Pauls Bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship-wrecked. The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise apparently natural barrier, is, perhaps, one of the best and most striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the island of Gozo, with St. Paul's Bay and its tower quietly reposing in the valley. The distance to St. Paul's Bay from Valetta is about eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.[4]About four miles farther on from St. Paul's Bay, and presenting more hill and dale than may be found in the general features of the island, you arrive at Melleha, where the devotees of both sexes resort. There is nothing particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines and sterile rock; but, with some gardens in its vicinity, stands a small church (pretty liberally stored with votive offerings), with a court-yard, surrounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their vow may dictate. Beyond this point, some four miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry to Gozo; but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of the road must be a calesse—deep sand from the Bay of Melleha and a road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Returning back to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing remarkable in it but a colossal church (encircling the old village church), which has been some years in the course of building, and, in respect to the progress had in its construction, may never be finished.[5]Passing through this casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well-constructed bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that would only lead to an uninteresting part of the island, that in olden times was designated on the maps "desert," and is now almost without population), along a narrow road or lane, of trifling extent, across a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island, the road is again covered by a line of defence; beyond this, it winds round the Binzamma, and, taking the turn to the left, one of the natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found in a nest of caves called "Ancient Tombs," now inhabited by some poor families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.[6]An indifferent road from this point leads to Citta Vecchia; but, as it possesses no interest, and can be traversed only by the equestrian, we turn back to Casal Musta; immediately, therefore, in front of the new church, is the street or road leading, on the left, to Casal Sia (San Antonio, with its gardens, of which we will speak hereafter), through this casal and Casal Bazan, between which the line of demarkation is scarcely apparent to the stranger, we come back to Bircharcara at the point where the road turned off to Nasciar, and, either by ascending to the main road, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, diverging to the right, or passing through Bircharcara and the Pietá, we return to Valetta. On the other hand, leaving Musta, as before directed, and inclining to the right, a road leads to Citta Vecchia, the great point of attraction to the generality of travellers who visit Malta. But of that hereafter.

The centre and principal road in Malta, proceeding as before from Porte des Bombes, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, is a spacious and well-kept road (like all others in the island), without turnpike trusts or imposts on the traveller. To the archway of the aqueduct, a distance of two miles, it may be considered the great suburb of a rich city. Here are various houses of noble aspect on the road, near the archway of the aqueduct-one called "the Lions"—from two effigies in stone of that sovereign of the forest, placed over the entrance; this the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie, selected as his country-house, in preference to the more imposing and regal residence of St. Antonio.

From the archway of the aqueduct (under which passes the main road to Citta Vecchia) the view now on either side, excepting only some casals in the distance, presents barren and uninteresting fields, so surrounded and intersected by stone walls, that it appears difficult to determine to what end these enclosures were erected, except before the opening of spring, when the lucerne with its dark green leaves and beautiful red flower over-topping the walls, convinces the passenger of the fertility of the soil. At about the fourth or fifth mile from Valetta, a road to the right leads to Santa Louisa and the gardens, unlike any other place in Malta. In the style and taste of the day, in which it was formed by the Grand Master, here are well-paved walks, terraces and flights of steps, with ponds or reservoirs, and water-works, on a small scale—art subduing nature, but apparently appropriately designed for its position. This has ever been accessible to strangers, either by a ticket of admission from the military secretary or aide-de-camp; and, under some governorships, even without that precaution. Leaving San Antonia and regaining the main road, you pass through Casal Attard,—a small casal with some good houses in it, but of gloomy appearance as compared with other casals.

From hence all is barren to the eye, until in the immediate neighbourhood of Citta Vecchia, where the fields appear more natural and to greater advantage. As you ascend the hill, you will find more guides from the idlers of the place, probably, than guests, who insist on giving their assistance where it is little required. Within the citadel is the cathedral, a very handsome church; without, is the suburb, properly Rabbato; you are shown the cave where St. Paul is said to have resided, a poor compliment to the hospitality of the inhabitants, for a more wretched place can scarcely be conceived. The church over this cave is like most of the churches of the island. Here also you are shown the catacombs, as these caverns are called; you descend by a flight of rude steps, but, were they well explored, an outlet on the level would, doubtless, be found, to determine their origin, like others of a similar character. Tradition offers many tales concerning them; but it may be left to conjecture, whether they were the habitation of saints, or the retreat of the peaceful inhabitants of the island, from the predatory visits of their Arab neighbours.

To the right of Citta Vecchia, an indifferent road of three or four miles leads to some gardens. Imtaklip is of no other particular interest than an occasional resort of parties from Valetta for a pic-nic. To the left, however, a good road, after passing a large convent, and still inclining to the left, is the Castle or Palace Verdali, of imposing appearance, but tenantless, and going to decay; below, in the valley, is the Boschetta, covered with pretty extensive groves of orange trees, the only truly agreeable retreat in the island, and almost daily resorted to by pleasure parties. There is a very small but uninteresting casal to the right of the road to the Boschetta.

The return to Valetta, in the most direct way, may be made by the same road; otherwise, after ascending the hill from the Boschetta, as far on the road as the Palace Verdali, a road branches off to the right, leading through the Casal Seggui; hence to Zettug, one of the largest and most populous in the island; and, descending the hill by a good road on the way to Casal Curmi, you have an extensive view of the surrounding country, embracing Valetta, the harbour, &c., in the distance. Casal Curmi, a large casal situated in the valley, has nothing particular to recommend it to the notice of the traveller; passing to the left through it, you ascend the hill to the arch of the aqueduct, and by the main road enter Valetta.

Starting as before from Porte des Bombes, at a short distance on the main road, a road branches off to the left, and winds round the head of the great harbour; hold the road to the right; after passing the fishermen's huts, the road leads through the Marsa—a tract, to the superficial observer, the most cultivated in Malta; ascend the hill and Casal Luca, and about a mile after passing through the casal, at a small chapel, two roads branch off, the one to the right to Casal Michabiba; hence to Casal Creude, in the immediate neighbourhood of which is to be seen Macluba, the landslip, or, in whatever other way it may be designated; and, ascending the hill from the chapel close by, and bearing away to the right, you arrive at some mile and a half distance, at the rude remains of a Phœnician temple, recently explored. Returning back to Crendi, and at about the middle of the casal, a road to the right leads to Casal Zurrico, standing out rather conspicuously, from its site and size (the road to the left from the small chapel, on the road from Casal Luca, mentioned before, is the direct road from Valetta to Casal Chercof, a small village, and Casal Zurrico); passing out of Casal Zurrico, close by the eastern side of the church (the road to the left, in front of the church, leads to Casal Luca, mentioned before), you arrive at Casal Gudia; at the end nearest Valetta is a substantial mansion, with well-walled grounds, a fanciful tower, &c. During the blockade, when the French were in possession of Valetta, this was the head-quarters of General Graham, afterwards Lord Lynedock, commanding the British Forces. A windmill at the corner of the mansion marks two roads; that to the right leading through Casal Ascheach to Casal Zeitun: the latter one of the best casals in the island. The procession of St. Gregorico, on Easter Wednesday, at which the greater portion of the population of the island attends, terminates at this casal: one other casal in this direction, Casal Zalbar, a short distance from the Cottonnera lines, which encircle or cover the three cities, is somewhat out of the line of march, and had better be visited in connection with the Government works on the opposite side of the great harbour, including the three cities, and the Cottonnera lines, from which this casal is a trifling distance. We, therefore, turn down the street immediately facing the grand entrance to the Church of Zeitun, containing numerous excellent houses, and, following a good road of brief extent, arrive at Casal Tarscien, from thence onwards to the hamlet of Casal Bala, denominated by the English the "Deserted Village;" turning to the left, at the end nearest Valetta, and passing by the front of the new prison, a good road leads down and communicates with the road first taken, on the way to Casal Luca; here the traveller may either enter Valetta by Porte des Bombes, or, holding on the great harbour, pass along the Marina, and so enter Valetta by the ordinary road on landing at Malta.

A MALTESE PEASANT.

The traveller may refer to the Guide Book at Malta for other places considered of importance; but as they are remote, like the Cave of Ben Isan, &c., their route is omitted here. There has been no attempt to describe places, or, indeed, distances, accurately; but, with the exception of the first route to Matra, the most remote casals are not more than six or seven miles at the utmost from Valetta, and a reference to the map at Malta will show the position and bearing of others less remote.

As a hint to travellers, especially those on horseback, who may consider this brief sketch a sufficient guide for an excursion, we may mention that they will find in every casal some idlers, who will insist on knowing where they are going better than themselves, and will mislead accordingly, by directing strangers to the only two points within the sphere of their knowledge or comprehension—Valetta or Citta Vecchia.

Between Malta and Alexandria there is no point of interest worthy of any notice; in fact, land is seldom sighted during the four days' trip.

Alexandria.—We now arrive at this port.

ALEXANDRIA.

For the guidance of the traveller in Egypt, we cannot give better directions than are supplied in the annexed letter from Mr. Davidson, the representative of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," a gentleman, whose courtesy, kindness and attention to all travellers passing through that country are universally admitted. Mr. Davidson repairs on board immediately the vessel arrives at Alexandria, and superintends all the arrangements for the whole journey thence to Suez. He writes thus:—

"The carpet-bag, containing the traveller's necessaries for three days in Egypt, he should keep charge of, and take to the hotel on arrival in the omnibus, or, if he ride, make the donkey-boy carry it with him, and the same on leaving the hotel for the boat. The other luggage he must leave, after seeing it on the steamer's deck, to be landed and transported in the luggage-lighter alongside, in charge of the transit-clerk, to whom he should hand a list of the same. These he will, perhaps, hear or see nothing of until he reaches Cairo, where they are exposed, before dispatched to Suez, for recognition, in the British Hotel yard. It is understood that the passenger sees to his carpet-bag, on changing boats at Atfeh and on arrival at Cairo, where it is given up and sent on camels, with the other luggage, after he has taken out the necessary articles[7]for use in crossing the desert, which are expected not to exceed five pounds' weight to each passenger in the carriage.

"Landing at Alexandria, the passenger will find three good hotels, situated in the grand square, about two miles from Mahoram Bey's, that part of the Mahmoudie canal where the passengers embark on board commodious boats, to be towed up to Atfeh (a distance of forty-eight miles) by powerful steam-tugs. The names of the hotels are "Hotel de l'Europe," "d'Orient" and "de Suisse." The rates of charges at all are piastres forty, or 8s. per diem, for board and lodging, exclusive of wines, beer and spirits. Those who prefer living à la Francaise, will give a preference to the Hotel d'Orient. At the other hotels the style of entertainment is more English.

"The extra charge, at 16s. the 112 lbs., for over-weight luggage (two cwt. being allowed to first and one cwt. to second-class passengers) is collected at the transit-office at Cairo, on exchanging tickets, and takes place there, in order to check the passengers proceeding beyond or remaining at this station.

"At Suez the luggage is embarked in the boat which takes the passenger off; and here he should see it again."

As the transition from heat to cold in crossing the desert is great, the range of the temperature varying from 94° in the shade at noonday to 72° at night, in the summer months, it is indispensable that travellers should be provided with warm clothing; and too great precaution cannot be taken to avoid exposure to the night air.

Taking this matter into consideration, we subjoin a thermometrical register recently kept in Egypt, which may be of service alike to the passing traveller and those who purpose sojourning for awhile in that country.

As the passage through Egypt en route to India differs but little, whether the traveller be hound to Calcutta or Bombay, we add to this division of our subject a short account of the only portion of the journey which can truly be called "Overland."

Stay at Alexandria.—A delay of about three to four hours occurs at Alexandria, in examining the luggage at the custom-house and loading the boats with it. During this time the traveller may, if so disposed, pay a visit to Cleopatra's Needle, Pompey's Pillar, and the Pacha's palace and arsenal; all of which may easily be reached on donkeys or in carriages in less than two hours, and at a very trifling cost.

The boats being ready, the whole party again assemble, and, embarking at the Mahmoudie canal, reach Atfeh in about ten hours, where the passengers are trans-shipped to the Nile steamers, and perform the trip to Cairo, 120 miles, in 16 or 20 hours, according to the depth of water in the Nile. The boat stops at Boulac, two miles distant from Cairo, to which place some walk, whilst others ride; carriages, horses and donkeys being prepared, and in waiting. There are several hotels in Cairo, the "British," "Oriental," and "English," the character and accommodation of each of which will be most accurately learned on reference to Mr. Davidson, to whom we have previously alluded.

BOULAC.

Abstract of a Thermometrical Register, kept at Alexandria, in N. lat. 31° 13', outdoor temperature, in the shade, for one whole year.

The seasons of the year to which the foregoing Table refers, it may be well to explain, were peculiarly moderate, the Thermometrical range varying less than in ordinary seasons.

The average heat at Cairo will exceed that at Alexandria by about 10 degrees all the year round. This is accounted for by the prevailing sea-breeze at Alexandria. The atmosphere at the latter is peculiarly humid; at the former peculiarly dry and elastic. Rains prevail in December and January; they are very rare at Cairo.

The luggage is conveyed to Suez on dromedaries, and, as these animals travel slowly, those who do not desire to proceed to Suez by the first division of carriages across the desert, will have sufficient time to visit the lions of Cairo, which consist of the citadel, the palace, the mint, the petrified forest, the Rhoda garden (chiefly botanical), the Pyramids of Gizeh, and the Pacha's palace and gardens at Shubra; or they may indulge in a bath, a luxury thus described in an article in the Asiatic Journal, by Mr. Stocqueler:—

"A bath at Cairo, after a voyage, is an agrémen which few will deny themselves. It is neither as elaborate nor as effective an affair as a Persian bath, but, like Mercutio's wound, 'it will do.' The soft coir, or fibrous matter, which is used instead of flannel or the hair-glove, is not by any means as efficacious as the latter in removing the sodden matter, or papier maché, which covers the human cuticle. Then there is neither shampooing, nor joint-cracking, nor mustachio-dyeing; nevertheless, it is pleasant to get into hot water after a month's exclusion from the indulgence, even though some of the accessories to the hummaum be wanting."

Of the manner in which the ascent of the Pyramids is made, the following sketch furnishes an accurate description:—

THE ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS.

A recent writer, describing this laborious operation, speaks of it thus:—"It is advisable, if bent on mounting to the summit, to disencumber yourself of all but your shirt and a pair of loose trousers; for the journey upwards must be taken rapidly, and cannot easily be accomplished with warm and tight clothing. A couple of Arabs leap on to the stones immediately above you, and offer you each a hand, while a third follows, to give you an impetus from behind, and catch you, in case of a slip. Up you go, panting and toiling, step after step (each three feet in height) and stopping occasionally to take breath, and receive the cheering congratulations of your rude guide—good, good, Inglese, berry good! and then, with an impatient grin and extended hand, 'Baksheesh!'"

We now come to the Overland part of the journey; viz., from

CAIRO TO SUEZ.[8]

The distance (ordinarily accomplished in about twenty hours, including stoppages) from Cairo to Suez is eighty four miles, and along the route through the desert there are seven station-houses. These station-houses are numbered from 1 to 7, and contain the following accommodation:—

No. 1. Nine miles from Cairo, stabling and a resting-room.

No. 2. Twenty miles from Cairo, contains two public rooms (one for ladies, and the other for gentlemen), two private rooms, and a servants' room.

No. 3. Thirty miles from Cairo, stabling for relays of horses, with one resting-room.

No. 4. Forty-one miles from Cairo, the centre station, contains a large saloon, a ladies' room, servants' room, kitchen, a number of commodious bed-chambers, large water-tank, stabling, &c. Here, also, will be found, liberally provided, those "creature comforts," which so essentially cheer and sustain the traveller on his way. Ladies, however, would do well to take in their basket, on leaving the steamer, a bottle of good water.

No. 5. Thirty miles from Suez, stabling and a resting room.

No. 6. Twenty miles from Suez, two public rooms, private rooms, and servants' rooms. The same as No. 2.

No. 7. Nine miles from Suez, stabling and resting-room.

DESERT CARRIAGE.

The whole distance is traversed without inconvenience, in carriages, on horseback, on chairs, or on donkeys; the latter a very superior animal to those in this country. The Egyptian ass is easy in his pace, capable of great fatigue, and, it is said, will perform the whole distance with but little provender.

Travellers now embark on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer, and, as soon as the luggage has been shipped, and every other arrangement made, the anchor is weighed, and the steamer starts for Aden. Beyond certain historical associations, the Red Sea presents little that can interest the traveller in his brief and expeditious trip. The shores are dreary and barren, and are only agreeable to the eye of the landsman, because they present a somewhat less monotonous scene than the expanse of "blue above and blue below," which distinguishes the ocean in parts remote from land.

ADEN.

Aden, which was formerly called "Portus Romanicus," is a town of the Yemen, which, from its position, and now, on account of its recent occupation by the English, promises to become a commercial and military station of great importance. The town is built on the crater of an exhausted volcano, and is situate at the extremity of a small peninsula, formed of volcanic matter, and attached to the continent solely by a low neck of land from 500 to 600 yards wide, and which might be easily isolated by a canal. The harbour is a magnificent basin, capable of containing an immense fleet; and is entered by a narrow passage between two other craters. It would be easy to establish defensive works on the rocks, which would place the fort in safety against any attack. One redoubt has been already raised, as a security against the Arabs, ever ready to attack the English. From this point to the gate of the town has been traced a road of about a league in length, by which the defile is reached that forms the entrance to Aden. This defile is being fortified with a gate, evidently constructed to resist other attacks than those of the Arabs, and is about 100 yards long, and four or five wide; it is cut out of a rock which stands 150 yards above the level of the sea. A formidable battery, commanding the entrance, is in process of being erected above the rock on the left of the defile. A covered way, with an arch thrown from one rock to another, unites the system of defence which the batteries on the summit of the rocks on the left will complete.

In despite of sickness and desolation, the population of Aden has greatly augmented in a short space of time. When first occupied, the population did not exceed 4,000; it is now upwards of 30,000; and every morning at daybreak 50 to 200 camels may be seen coming into the town, laden with the produce of the interior, provisions, vegetables, &c., to console and comfort the otherwise benighted occupants of this extinguished crater. The fact is, the security to property afforded by a residence within the limits of British possession and influence, has contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to this outward sign of prosperity.

An hotel on the sea-shore, kept by some enterprising Parsees from Bombay, and a great number of donkeys, attended by their drivers or proprietors (little woollyheaded urchins), offer to the passenger who may go ashore, the contrast of a dinner of fish and a ride to the town and cantonment of Aden. Beyond these, the attractions of the place may be represented by a cipher.

At Aden the steamer takes in a supply of coal, and then starts for Ceylon; which island she reaches in ten days, and where she remains but for a few hours. Here will be found a branch steamer ready to start for China; and, to the traveller thenceward, we can promise that this portion of the journey, touching at Penang and Singapore, en route, will surpass in picturesque and romantic scenery all that his eye has hitherto beheld—we do not mean to say that, in many parts of Europe or America, there are not isolated spots equally beautiful and sublime; but, whether, for a continuous sea-journey of so many miles, for the most part, in water as smooth as a "milk pan," it can be equalled? certainly, it cannot be surpassed. The voyage from Ceylon to Penang is commonly made in six days,—the steamer stopping there six hours; that to Singapore in three days, with a stay of twenty-four hours; and, finally, to Hong Kong, in another six days. Four days under steam from Ceylon carry us to Madras, where, after another supply of fuel, we proceed to Calcutta, occupying four days in the trip; and there terminates our interesting journey. We have given a brief description of the three last-named places in the section appropriated to the details of the homeward trip, and therefore consider it unnecessary to offer any remarks here.

[TO BOMBAY.]

The responsibility of this journey is divided, being firstly in the hands of the Peninsular and Oriental Company; secondly, of the Egyptian Oriental Transit Company; and, lastly, of the East India Company. Forethought and precaution are therefore recommended in making the arrangements necessary to secure the passage to Bombay throughout, with as little inconvenience and as much comfort as can be experienced under the circumstances above stated.

The Peninsular and Oriental Company allow a limited number of passengers to book for Aden, on the 20th of each month, and, when this can be effected, it is decidedly the most comfortable and least expensive mode of reaching Bombay. The East India Company's frigates, that convey the mid-monthly mail from Aden to Bombay, afford good accommodation for a few persons; and the run is only one of ten days' endurance.

The Peninsular and Oriental Company, under no circumstances, book the whole way to Bombay. Passengers wishing to adopt that course, and having fixed the date of their departure, should make immediate application to James Barber and Co., whose circular will be found at the end of this book, and whose advice and assistance will always be found useful to the Overland traveller.

Passengers who cannot adopt the first part of this route, so far as Aden, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, will find the following directions serve them in the time of need.

The Company's steamers for Malta and Constantinople start from Southampton on the 29th of every month, at 1·30 P.M. (when the 29th falls on a Sunday, the steamer leaves at nine o'clock on the morning of the 30th), arriving at Malta about the 10th of the month.

Passengers for Alexandria and Bombay are conveyed from Malta to Alexandria by one of Her Majesty's steamers, leaving Malta, on the arrival there, from Marseilles, of the London mail of the 7th of the month.

On their arrival at Alexandria, the same means of travelling are provided for passengers, as described in a previous part of this work; but the passenger, in this case, having only hitherto paid for his sea-journey to Malta £27 10s.—a further sum of £12 10s. has to be paid for passage from Malta to Alexandria, and then he has to make his arrangement with the Egyptian Transit Company, in order that he may reach Suez in time to embark in the East India Company's steamer at that port, which conveys the mail to Bombay.

The Transit Company have established the following rates:—

Two cwt. of baggage is allowed at the £12 rate, and one cwt. for all below it, and 16s. per cwt. is charged for any excess on that weight.

Provisions are liberally supplied on the journey; but hotel expenses at Alexandria, Cairo and Suez, as well as wines, beer and spirits, are not included in the sum charged by the Transit Company. The following may be considered a fair estimate of the cost of the trip:—

This amount will vary, of course, according to the mode of living and views of the passenger, but 15s. per day may be taken as a fair average for living, and 5s. additional, well managed, will pay the expense of seeing the sights of interest in or about Cairo, if a prolonged stay be contemplated or practicable.

Arrived at Suez, the passenger will have to secure his accommodation to Bombay, according to the regulations in the following pages.

East India Company's rules for the engagement of passages and accommodation of passengers in the Government steam-packets between Bombay and Suez.

Application for passage is to be made at the office of the master-attendant in Bombay, and at other ports to the commander.

Passengers are to be divided into two classes, viz.:—

First class, who sit at the commander's table and are entitled to all the privileges of the quarter-deck.

Second-class, who are not entitled to walk aft of the paddle-boxes, who berth forward, and either arrange for their own provision, or mess with the warrant-officers or engineers.

Every passenger of the first class shall pay the following sum, as table-money, for the voyage from Bombay to Suez, or from Suez to Bombay, viz.:—

It is to be understood that, for the above sums, the passengers are to be provided with a plain, substantial table; but no person is entitled to more than one pint of wine and one bottle of beer per diem. Cabin passengers have the first choice of seats at the table, and, after them, the saloon passengers, in preference to those on the deck, whose priority will be arranged according to their standing on the passage-list. The seats will be arranged by the commander, and, once taken, they cannot be changed without his permission during the voyage.

In addition to the table-money, the following sums will be charged for the accommodation engaged by first-class passengers, viz.:—

Every second class passenger shall pay Rs. 150.

For each European servant 50 Rs. must be paid as subsistence-money, and 50 Rs. as passage-money; for native servants the charge will be one-half the rate for a European; but none are to be considered and taken as servants unless they actually accompany their masters or mistresses.

A passenger who has engaged a cabin may make what arrangement he likes for its occupation; he may either keep it entirely to himself, or admit to share it with any one that he pleases, provided only that the name of the person so admitted (if an adult) have been previously on one of the lists, and subject to the following restrictions, viz.:—

A treble cabin cannot be appropriated to the accommodation of more than—

Four ladies.
Three gentlemen.
Six children.
One lady and four children.
Two ladies and three children.
Three ladies and two children.
One gentlemen and three children.
Two gentlemen and two children.
A lady and her husband, with two children.

A double cabin cannot be appropriated to more than—

Three ladies.
Two gentlemen.
Four children.
A lady and three children.
Two ladies and two children.
A gentleman with two children.
A lady and her husband, with one child.

A single cabin cannot be appropriated to more than—

Two ladies.
One gentleman.
Three children.
One lady and two children.

Passengers in a steamer that may from accident or other cause be obliged to return to port, will be entitled to the refund of the amount that has been paid, deducting therefrom a sum for the table allowance of the commander, according to the number of days that the vessel may have been at sea, calculating the average time occupied in a voyage to or from Suez to be eighteen days, and Aden ten days.

For the convenience of passengers from the Red Sea to India, the commanders of the Honourable Company's packets are authorised to receive payment of passage-money at Suez, or any port between Suez and Bombay, in sovereigns, Spanish dollars or German crowns, at the following rates of exchange, viz.:—

Each cabin-passenger may, if he pleases, put all his baggage into his cabin. The saloon and deck-passengers will be allowed to keep one box or bag above. The rest of the baggage is to be in the baggage-room, and passengers will be allowed access to it twice a week, on a day and hour fixed by the commander, who will appoint a person to have charge of the baggage.

Any applicant may be refused a passage without any cause being assigned, either by the authorities at Bombay or by the commander of the vessel when away from Bombay; but a report of the rejection is to be communicated to Government.

All persons who take passage, either themselves or through their agents, will be considered as thereby binding themselves to comply with these rules, which will be shown by the master-attendant or by the commander of the vessel to parties who engage a passage.

[ROUTE VIÂ FRANCE, GERMANY OR ITALY.]

An impression is abroad that parties leaving England for India may travel through France, Germany or Italy, embarking for Alexandria at either Marseilles, Trieste, or Naples, at as reasonable a cost, and with as little trouble as if they had taken their passage in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers from Southampton.[9]That such routes have their advantages, in the information and experience which travelling on the continent imparts to the intelligent, no one can deny; but that they are, in other respects, less troublesome or more economical than the sea-trip cannot by experience be maintained. In truth, no person can even compute with accuracy the actual expense of a land-journey; for, though the charges for posting by diligence, eil-wagon, vetturino, or rail, may be easily ascertained, it is impossible to estimate probable hotel charges, the extortions of gendarmerie, custom-house officers, passport employés, &c., or to foretell what detentions may take place en route; detentions which, if for only one hour beyond the time for the departure of the steamer, involve a prolonged stay of another month. We, therefore, feel justified in discarding all minute particulars respecting the routes we have indicated, simply mentioning that parties who do not seek the accommodation of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's boats until they reach Malta or Alexandria, will have to pay (rateably) a higher sum for their passage to Ceylon, Madras or Calcutta, than would be charged them, were they to embark, in the first instance, at Southampton. We may add, however, that should any parties, in the face of the difficulties and objections, still prefer proceeding by the continental route, they will do well to limit their luggage to the least possible supply, and always refer, before deciding on the trip, to parties in London, who can give them the latest and fullest information on the subject.

[THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE.]

To the "homeward bound" who engages his passage in the Peninsular Company's steamer right through to England, we may address the following information:—

We will suppose him to be at Calcutta, or the provinces under the Bengal Presidency. Having made up his mind to proceed to England, and settled the period of his departure, he addresses the Agent of the Company in Calcutta, requesting him to secure a passage in the steamer appointed to proceed to Suez in the month he may have selected. The advertisements published in the Calcutta papers will indicate the arrangements made for the departure of the steamers, and the plans which the Company's agents can supply will assist the intending passenger to select a cabin. The prices of accommodation which we have given in pounds sterling do not vary in India. The conversion of pounds sterling into rupees at the current exchange of the day will at once give the amount.

If the party be bent upon making a prolonged stay in Egypt, it will only be necessary to engage a passage to Suez, taking a certificate from the captain that the voyage has been made in one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's vessels, in order to ensure a passage from Alexandria to Southampton, at some future period, in one of the vessels of the same establishment, by paying the amount (exclusive of desert transit) that would have been exacted in Calcutta for the entire passage. If, however, the traveller, after remaining in Egypt, purpose visiting the Continent of Europe prior to his return to England, he need not trouble himself about the certificate.

Having engaged his passage, the homeward-bound will next think of his equipment for the trip. What we have said on this subject, in the instructions to outward-bound passengers, will equally apply to him. No cabin furniture whatever is required, nor will anything be needed in addition to the ample wardrobe which a resident in India generally possesses, beyond a couple of blouses, or light jean shooting-coats, and a sola hat.

Should the traveller be resident at Madras, or under the Fort St. George government, he should address his application to the Oriental Company's agent at the Presidency, who will give him all necessary information as to the time when the steamer may be expected at Madras. He will be required to be perfectly ready to start, as the stay of the vessel in the Madras roads seldom exceeds the few hours requisite in coaling.

Officers on the Bombay establishment will, it is presumed, for the most part, leave their own Presidency in the East-India Company's steamers, the regulations regarding which will be found in a preceding page.

The accommodation of the government boats terminating at Suez, the Bombay officer will be thrown upon his own resources for the remainder of his trip. He will accordingly do wisely, if he wish to get rapidly to England, to address himself a month before-hand to the agent of the Peninsular and Oriental Company in Egypt, to book him a passage thence to Southampton, and to arrange for his transit across the desert.[10]

Officers on sick-leave or furlough very frequently arrive without certain necessary documents, and are consequently subject to great inconvenience and expense. They should be provided with—

Certificate of length of service.
Certificate of being allowed a furlough.
Certificate of date to which pay has been issued.

If from Bengal, a certificate from the pilot in duplicate of the date of the ships leaving the Sandheads; and, if it be intended to claim income-allowance from the military fund, a certificate from the secretary to the fund of being entitled to such an allowance.

MUSSOOLAH BOAT.

The voyage from India to Suez, as far as the attractions of the intermediate ports are concerned, presents very few charms for the traveller; and, even if they were numerous, the stay at each place is so brief, that there is scarcely any opportunity of enjoying them; but every change is acceptable to the landsman confined for several days on shipboard, more particularly if the scenes he beholds have a dash of novelty in them. Arrived at Madras, therefore (we speak now to the Bengal officer), he will pull ashore in one of the Mussoolah boats, whose peculiar construction and safe navi gation through the surf that perpetually rolls upon the shore at that port has always been a subject of surprise to the novice. If he have a friend at the Presidency, he will probably get the use of a carriage for the day, if not, he will be able to hire a "shigram" (palanquin carriage), or a "a bandy" (gig), and drive to all the most striking parts in the town. The Mount-road, with its numerous European shops, and monument to Sir Thomas Munro, the fort and the arsenal, the college, the public stables, the government house, the Athenæum library, the Black town, &c., will furnish subjects of inspection enough to occupy a few hours very pleasantly.

Ceylon.—The next point on the route has its attractions for the Madras, as well as the Bengal, officer. An idea of these may be gathered from the following lively and intelligent description of a visit to Point de Galle, the coaling port, derived from "The Monthly Times," and written by a gentleman who had touched there in the "Hindostan," on his way to England:—

"On the seventh day, including our twenty-four hours' detention at Madras, after leaving the Sandheads, we found ourselves, in the morning, approaching the beautiful Island of Ceylon, and anchored about noon in Point de Galle harbour. The entrance to the harbour was pretty enough—low rocks, over which the waves were beating and bounding, extended to the left, and a point of land seemed to jut out prominently to them, on which is built the Dutch fort of olden days, and which still retains its characteristic look of Dutch solidity and unavailing massiveness. There is no appearance of town from the ship; and very few habitations visible, or indications of much cultivation. The old Dutch church forms the principal object in the fort. You know I had letters from a family long resident at Galle. I proposed to see them on the following morning, but they would not hear of my remaining on board; so I landed in the afternoon, and soon found all was kindness and hospitality on the part of my new Cingalese acquaintances. The residence was formerly the old Government House, in the days of the Dutch. It was a large, roomy, substantial building; the doors were lofty, and the walls panelled in stucco, and painted with white and ochre; the fittings-up and furniture were plain, but substantially made, of carved ebony and satin-wood.

"On the following day, after a most gloriously comfortable night's rest in a very clean bed and cool, capacious room, we started, after breakfast, in a small palkee-garree and pony, always easily obtainable on hire, to visit a country-house on a hill about three miles from the fort. The drive was through a beautiful and open, well-shaded road, with frequent interspersings of small cleared patches of rice and other cultivation. The road itself was narrow, with ditches on either side, but well metalled with broken granite. The comfortable houses of the burghers rose occasionally by the road side, on little shady eminences, here and there, and seemed neat and peculiarly cozy. They were chiefly oblong, tiled buildings, with a verandah to the front. These burghers are descendants either from the former Dutch or Portuguese possessors of this coast; and many that I saw were not a little darkened in their descent. On reaching the hill, which we had to walk up, I found the sun sadly oppressive; but we were amply repaid for the ascent, for the view from it was superb. The sea was visible, and almost everywhere open to us along the horizon, through the different hills; and every here and there, in our vicinity and below us, were beautiful valleys and richly cleared spots, with well-defined roads running through them, and occasionally cottages and huts dotted in every direction; the grand distant mountains forming afar a tall and varied background.

"I returned to the ship, after dinner, in the evening, much gratified with my visit. The mode of living at Ceylon is more English, in all respects, than at Calcutta; the table more simple—the servants fewer—and the whole character of domestic economy less Oriental than we are accustomed to on the Indian Continent; but the scenery of the island itself is far from partaking of this un-Oriental appearance; it realises, in everything, all we fancy and read of in descriptions of tropical islands. The closeness and abundance of the vegetation, the variety of Eastern jungle trees, the palm-like characteristic towering of the cocoa and beetle-nut tree, everywhere prominent in the luxuriant woods around you, all tend to give to Ceylon a picturesque and Eastern style of beauty, very different from the low plains and unvaried flatness of the country in Bengal.

"The dresses of the natives are different from Bengal; men wear combs like the women of other countries, and have a loose cloth round their legs, vastly resembling a petticoat. Their language is the Cingalese; an open and gentle sort of well-vowelled dialect, which sounds prettily and euphoniously enough, like the Malayan language.

"Trade altogether is not very extensive in Ceylon. At Galle there are but three or four merchants, forming the entire mercantile community of the place. At Columbo there are, perhaps, twenty merchants and agents, and there is a Ceylon bank. The local trade is confined to three articles, viz., coffee, cocoa-nut oil, and cinnamon, though a few folks are beginning to turn their attention to sugar. Coffee is reared in plantations on the higher lands, and in chosen spots in the interior. Some of the plantations have done well, and, after the third year, are described as having paid more with the one season's produce than all the preceding and preliminary outlay and price of block put together. Several concerns, however, are losing, the soil being unsuitable; the present low prices for Ceylon coffee, in England, must utterly ruin them. It has been proved, that the only chance of success is with clearances on the forest and large tree lands: the plant thrives in these, though it takes three years to bear, and attains maturity only after the fifth year; it is expected to last ten years. Like all other concerns, those under proprietors themselves fare the best, and are easily distinguishable from those superintended by agents; but all managers live very uncomfortably. The superintendents get about 150 rupees per month, which is little enough, for supplies of the commonest necessity reach only from Kandy, or from a distance, and they are frequently without supplies at all, subsisting then on rice and the poorest produce of the villages around them. The Ceylon coffee itself ranks next to Mocha in the English markets; but recent prices must be insufficient to meet the charges of production. It is planted much in the same manner as with tea in Assam. After clearance, they set the plants at certain distances, when they grow to about the same height as the tea-tree. After blossoming and ripening, and before falling, the fruit is gathered; when there is a simple process, by some wheels and cheap machinery, to clear the berry from the pulp and skin.

"There are cinnamon gardens, near Galle, but they are not pleasing to look at, and assuredly there is no spicy and aromatic odour on the breeze, as the poets would fain establish in reference to this island, the famed Taprobane of old! When you bruise a twig or shoot of the cinnamon-tree and break off a small bit of the bark, the scent of the cinnamon is powerful and pleasant. The cocoa-nut oil is expressed much in the same manner as in Bengal, but it surprised me that, for domestic use at Galle, it was so expensive; they asked sixpence for two quart bottles of it, or, at this rate, about five rupees and more per maund. I should have expected it to be cheaper in Ceylon.

"The Rifle corps seemed to be a fine, well-disciplined body of men, chiefly Malays or their descendants. The regiment is officered like the line, and the dress, appointments, setting up and look of the soldiers were excellent.

"The salaries and receipts of the public functionaries and others in Ceylon are not quite so good as under the Company, but the habits of living, as I have before remarked, are more economical, and, I dare say, there is more money comparatively saved in Ceylon, than in the Company's wider and more imperial territories."

The new arrival at Ceylon is sorely beset by pedlars, who tempt him to invest a small portion of his capital in ivory snuff-boxes and knife-handles, tortoise-shell combs, card-racks, &c. A very few of these articles, purchased at a third of the price asked for them, may prove acceptable to friends in England, but we would recommend the Ceylon visitor to abstain from too large an indulgence in his generous inclinations, for ivory pays a heavy duty in England, and, after all, the articles brought home may be procured in England at as cheap a rate.

After leaving Ceylon and passing through the Maldive islands, which, though very low and level, are green and picturesque, no object of interest presents itself until the port of Aden is reached.

Quitting Aden, the shores of the Red Sea are frequently seen, but rarely approached during the upward voyage. In six days Suez is reached, and, as soon as boats can come off to the steamer, the passengers are landed and almost immediately conveyed by van (see previous details on this head) across the desert.

The town of Suez offers no kind of inducement to prolong one's stay. Small, dirty and destitute of any architectural beauties or antique remains, it exhibits the worst specimen of a Mahomedan city in the whole Ottoman empire.

Arrived at Suez, it will be for the passenger who has not contracted for the entire trip home, to select his own method of getting to Cairo. The vans of the Transit Company offer unquestionably the most convenient and expeditious mode of carrying the traveller across the desert; but there are not wanting persons who prefer the romance and independence of a tedious trip on the back of a horse, donkey or camel. If there were any objects of interest worthy of an occasional halt in the desert, the inconvenience of this slow progress would have its counterpoise; but when we assure the traveller that there is not one single fragment of antique remains, one solitary picturesque spot, nay, nothing, beyond one tree, seven station-houses, and a multitude of rat-holes and camel-skeletons, to diversify the broad, glaring, sandy waste, he will not hesitate about the prudence of paying his £12—the whole cost of transit to Alexandria—or £9 to Cairo only, and joining the bulk of his fellow-travellers in the omnibuses.

From Cairo a freer choice is left to the traveller. If he prefer lingering in Egypt, he will find in a visit to the cataracts, the temples of Luxor, Carnac, &c., enough to engage his attention for an indefinite number of weeks. On these points, however, we have supplied information among the "Miscellaneous" matter at the close of this volume.

The route from Cairo to Alexandria, merely reversing the order of the trip, is described in a foregoing part of this volume. Arrived at Alexandria—provided the passenger has not booked himself in India for the entire transit to Southampton—it often becomes a question which route shall be taken to accomplish the remainder of the journey. The taste, inclinations or curiosity of some will lead them to Constantinople, to Syria, the Holy Land, the Grecian Archipelago; others may feel disposed to embark for Trieste, in order to visit Venice, northern Italy and Germany. Many chalk out for themselves a trip to Naples, Rome, Florence, Switzerland, &c., previously purifying themselves of the bugbear plague at Malta; and some few embark in the French steamer and make their way to Marseilles, there to serve quarantine, preparatory to a tour through France.

If it were as much our province to advise as it is our purpose to inform, we would suggest, as the result of the information imparted to us by many travellers, that it is, on many accounts, most desirable that persons from India should come straight to England, in the first instance, thence betaking themselves to the continent of Europe, if so inclined. The chief reasons for this proceeding are—the entire avoidance of the quarantines, which are often irksome and always expensive; the gratification of the natural affections by the earliest possible meeting with relatives and friends; the facility of obtaining information respecting the most attractive routes, and introductions to families on the Continent; the opportunity of selecting a companion from old fellow-soldiers, fellow-officials or Indian friends similarly bent upon a pleasurable excursion.

But these arguments may weigh as a feather against the determination to visit the interesting portions of Europe and Asia we have indicated, preparatory to placing foot in England. It is difficult to eradicate from any Anglo-Indians the notion that it is better to arrive cleansed of Indian rust and polished by a tour through civilised lands, or more prudent "to see the world" while you are in it, than to trust to the chance of quitting England when you have just tasted its infinite pleasures.

For the consideration of such reasoners, therefore, we submit some information respecting quarantines, the rules of which, however, are very changeable.

A passage to Malta from Alexandria may be procured in the "Peninsular and Oriental Company's" boats for £12 10s. The French steamers charge £10, but this does not include the table, wines, &c., which are paid for separately to the restaurateur on board. The trip in the English steamer occupies four days. The French vessel goes first to Syra, to meet the Constantinople boat, and this occupies seven days. Arrived at Malta, intimation is given by the captain of the number of persons who meditate remaining there, and accommodation is accordingly provided for them in the lazaretto. Their stay will depend upon the nature of the bill of health carried by the vessel; it is not, however, at any time, less than twelve days, and may extend to twenty.

The regulations to be observed in the lazaretto are given on the following page.

GENERAL REGULATIONS.

To be observed by all Persons performing Quarantine in the Lazaretto of Malta.

I.

All passengers, on landing, are to give their names to the captain of the lazaretto, which are to be entered in the registry of the office.

II.

The captain of the lazaretto will assign apartments for passengers, and each passenger will be provided with two chairs, a table, and a wooden bedstead, for which no charges are made; but any damage done by the passengers to the apartments or furniture is to be made good by them before pratique.

III.

Passengers are not to be permitted to enter other apartments; nor can they be allowed to receive visitors, except at the parlatorio of the lazaretto, and that only during office-hours; nor are they to trespass the limits assigned to them by the captain of the lazaretto.

IV.

Passengers must pay a strict attention to all the instructions they may receive from the captain of the lazaretto and from the health guardians, and particularly in every point that regards their baggage, clothes, &c., being properly aired and handled during the period of their quarantine; and their quarantine will only commence to reckon from the day on which all their baggage, clothes, &c., have been duly opened and handled.

V.

All letters and parcels, or other effects brought by passengers, must be given up, in order that they may be fumigated or depurated separately from them, as the occasion may require.

VI.

All cases of sickness must be reported immediately to the cap tain of the lazaretto, and all persons sick are to be visited immediately by the physician to the lazaretto, after which official visit, passengers are at liberty to avail themselves of any medical attendance they think proper.

VII.

Passengers are to pay the Government fee for the guardians employed to attend them, for the number of days of their quarantine, at the following rates, viz.:—at 1s. 3d. per day for the guardian who attends one passenger, and at 2s. 6d. per day for each guardian who attends more than one passenger. They are to victual the guardian or guardians during their quarantine, or to pay to each guardian an allowance of 7d. per day in lieu thereof. It is to be clearly understood that the guardians are employed solely for quarantine purposes, and they are strictly prohibited to interfere in any other service whilst they attend passengers.

VIII.

The office hours at the lazaretto are from 8 A.M. to 12, and from 2 P.M. to 5 daily; and all letters sent to the fumigating-room before 9 A.M. daily, will be delivered in Valetta at 10, and those sent before 3 will be delivered in Valetta at 4 P.M. by the letter messenger, who is entitled to receive from the passengers a penny for each note, parcel, or letter, as a remuneration for his trouble and boat-hire.

IX.

A daily report of all circumstances is to be made by the captain of the lazaretto to the superintendent of quarantine and marine police.

N.B. A trattoria has been established at the lazaretto for the convenience of passengers who wish to avail themselves of it, from whence they can be supplied with dinners, wines, &c., &c., in their own apartments.

Beds complete and other articles of furniture, if required, can also be hired from a person appointed to provide them.

A note of charges for the trattoria, and for the hire of furniture, will be furnished to the passengers, on their applying for it.

Of the manner in which the time may be passed in a lazaretto, the following graphic sketch by Mr. Stocqueler, which appeared some time since in the "Asiatic Journal," will convey no imperfect idea:—

"Upwards of 140 passengers left Alexandria in the Oriental, at the end of May, for some fifty had joined it from Bombay; amongst the latter were several heroes of Meanee and Hyderabad—fine young soldiers, who were covered with honourable scars received in the desperate engagements between Sir C. Napier and the Belochees. Never, perhaps, was a vessel freighted with so many who had distinguished themselves in conflict with the enemies of their country. Not less than twenty-six officers, who had seen service in Afghanistan, China and Scinde, paced the deck every day, and described the scenes which their own prowess and that of their comrades had, for the previous three or four years, rendered memorable in the history of British India. But of this large number of homeward-bound passengers, only three (one having two ladies in his family), quitted the Oriental at Malta. Those who wished to prosecute the rest of their journey by land had either failed to make the necessary provision,[11]or shuddered at the prospect of twenty days' imprisonment in the lazaretto. Moreover, they flattered themselves with the belief, that they would be enabled to make the tour of the Continent when they had exhausted the various pleasures of glorious England. And so they steamed away to Southampton, leaving the few above alluded to—the writer of this among them—in the lazaretto, under suspicion of the crime of being afflicted with the plague.

"Meanwhile, let me assure the traveller from India, that even a three weeks' incarceration in the Malta lazaretto is not intolerable, if, which is generally the case with the imprisoned, he is lucky enough to have one or two pleasant and intelligent companions. I have before me, at this moment, a memorandum, written after twelve days' of captivity, and, as it may serve to re-assure future prisoners, by conveying some idea of the scenes, impressions, and occupations which diversify existence in the durance they are compelled to support, I here transcribe it:—

"'Let me survey my prison, and its agrémens. I am lodged in two commodious apartments, overlooking the quarantine bay. I look out of the southern window of my verandah, and have the waters of the Mediterranean forty feet only below me. Opposite, at the distance of about 300 yards, and divided from me by these waters and the quarantine harbour, are the ramparts of the fortifications, surmounted by windmills, flag-staves, and a small Roman Catholic chapel. To the right is the termination of the bay, where a dozen of Greek, Austrian, and English brigs and barques lie in quarantine, sufficiently near to allow me to observe the operations on board. Behind all these, a little more to the south-eastward, is part of the suburbs of La Valetta, the evening promenade, gardens, hills, &c. To my left, is the entrance to the bay, overlooked on one side by part of the city of La Valetta, and on the other side by Fort Manvel, now used as a part of the lazaretto. This view greets me whenever I stand in the verandah, a recreation to which one is often tempted by the clearness, coolness, and crispness of the air, the beauty of the sky, and the rich blue of the water. Well, this of itself is something. Then, for moving sights, we have occasionally the arrival or departure of a steamer from Alexandria, or Greece, or the coast of Spain; of vessels from Tripoli, and Smyrna, and Syra; of speronaros from Sicily or the Italian coast; or we see a vessel released from quarantine, working her way out of the harbour. Early in the morning, four times in the week, the bell of the little chapel, on the summit of a rock opposite the lazaretto, tolls to prayers. The chapel is not more than twenty feet in breadth, and the same in depth. The altar occupies the back or southern side, and exactly faces us. The bell ceases, the priest dons his canonicals, and the matin mass commences, the responses being audibly chanted or muttered by the crews of Maltese and Italian vessels, who are either quartered in apartments beneath us, or employed on board the vessels. The door of the chapel closes, and the work or pastime of the day commences.

"'Ha! there's a splash!—a sailor in quarantine has stripped himself, and plunged into the water beneath his prison-door. Another and another follow him! How admirably they swim! the ease of the water-fowl, and the rapidity of the fish. See! one of them dives! How long he remains under water! Will he drown?—will he not be suffocated? not a bit of it; he rises to the surface, bearing in his hands some of the black, starry, thorny members of the crustaceous tribe. He has a knife in his right hand, which I did not observe before, and which he evidently took with him to dislodge the fish from their location in the rocky depths. Splash! and the strong swimmer is again twenty feet below the surface. Again, he rises—and again descends—and behold! he has accumulated a perfect breakfast of shell-fish! Meanwhile, the others breast the waves, diving, floating, playing, and rejoicing in all the muscular strength which the noble, healthful, and refreshing science calls into action. Well, a walk will do no harm—the verandah is sixty paces long, and forty or fifty turns will give one an appetite for breakfast. A. and B. have abun dance of conversation for the promenade, and when we have exhausted the pleasures of memory, we can turn to the pleasures of hope, and debate the possibility of an abatement of the quarantine or, at any rate, discuss the respective advantages and pleasures of going to Syra, to Naples, or Marseilles. We are tired now, and it is time to dress. Breakfast is ready—can anything be more satisfactory, or anything more tempting and wholesome? There are coffee and tea, and three times as many rolls as we can eat! The eggs are as large as the finest production of the English barn-door hen, and boiled to the exact point—half a minute less, and the albumen would not have coagulated; half a minute more, and they would have been as hard as a stone. And there's a delicious dish of strawberries, brought only yesterday from the coast of Sicily, and plucked but an hour before their embarkation! And flowers too:—

'The captive soothers of a captive's hours.

"'Carlo, best of servitors, knows my penchant, and decks the table with the rose, the pink, the carnation, and the fragrant thyme.

"'Breakfast over, Mr. Cassolani is announced. He is the captain of the lazaretto; a courteous, intelligent old gentleman, of very correct notions and kind disposition. He is come to give us a list of the passengers who have just arrived at Marseilles, and to ask us to subscribe a trifle for a poor widow, whose husband, a guardiano of the lazaretto, died of apoplexy the day of our arrival. We have dropped our mites for the widow's benefit, and Cassolani condescends to pick them up, though he will not receive them from our hands. This painfully reminds us that we are prisoners on the suspicion of the crime of plague—gens suspects. People 'in pratique,' as freedom from the lazaretto is called, will 'walk with us, talk with us, buy with us, sell with us—but they will not eat with us, drink with us,' nor pollute themselves by touching our persons or our clothes. Cassolani carries a stick, to keep us at a respectful distance, and there is a soldier of the 42nd Highlanders on the opposite ramparts, prepared to send a bullet through us, if we attempt to go abroad until we are fairly cleansed of the foul imputation.

"'Cassolani departs, and S. and I go to chess. From chess we fly to books. It is three o'clock, and dinner is announced. For economy and society's sake, we have made a table d'hôte, and the whole party dine together. It is true that B. looks suspiciously at one dish, and C. distrusts another; but, nevertheless, the whole style of the thing is good and clean, comprising the English and French modes de cuisine as well as could be desired. There is, for example, soup à la Julienne, and a dish of mackerel; roast beef à l'Anglais (the beef comes to Malta from Tunis, and, after serving quarantine, is fattened for the table); a fricandeau of sweetbread in a well-flavoured sauce; a stewed breast of mutton, mashed potatoes, a maccaroni, peas or French beans, or artichokes, an apricot tart, cheese, and a salad. Oranges, cherries, and strawberries compose our dessert, and we drink a pint of Marsala. What more would a man have?

"'The sun declines, and the Maltese world emerges from its confinement. The telescopes now come into play, and we direct our views to the part of the town where the sempstresses congregate, and gaze out of the balcony windows, to catch the evening breeze, or anything else that may be passing. The fall of night brings with it tea and candles, and then books, draughts, chess, and—to bed!'

"Of the other agrémens of the lazaretto there remains nothing to notice, if I except the numerous boats which are continually coming and going across the harbour, often laden with females, who, in their black mantillas, with sparkling black eyes, and hair à la Madonna, resemble Spanish women.

"The expense of living in the Malta lazaretto is about eleven shillings per diem, as thus:—

"This can be increased, if necessary, by a more abundant dinner, tea, or coffee in the evening, spirituous liquors, and a greater quantity of furniture; but it cannot be diminished. Washing costs about one shilling per dozen pieces, and sevenpence per diem for the diet of the blanchisseuse, who must come into the lazaretto to perform her functions. A capital circulating library keeps the incarcerated well supplied with books (at one penny per volume per day), and Galignani's Messenger, and the Maltese papers can also be had on application to Mr. Mure's establishment."

Emerging from the lazaretto, the traveller is recommended to pass a few days in inspecting the town and the surrounding country (vide page 11), and then to repack his luggage, dispatching such as he may not require on his homeward trip direct from Malta, consigned to the care of his agent in London, with instructions as to the disposal of the same.

Those travellers who prefer visiting France viâ Marseilles, will find the lazaretto there, comparatively speaking, a sort of purgatory. We subjoin the regulations as published by the French authorities:—

WITH UNCLEAN BILL OF HEALTH.

Art. 1. French Post-office Packets.—19 days after debarking effects and passengers.

Passengers by these boats and their baggage.—17 days after landing at the lazaret; 14 days only when the baggage shall have been plombé at the consulate of France at the port of embarking, and that this operation be legally certified.

Art. 2. French or foreign men-of-war.—17 days after the landing of passengers and their baggage.

Passengers on board these vessels.—17 days without spoglio, 14 days with spoglio.

Art. 3. Vessels with pilgrims.—25 days.

Pilgrims.—25 days after landing.

Art. 4. Every other description of sailing-vessel or steam-boat.—21 days after landing suspected articles.

Passengers by these vessels.—17 days without spoglio, 14 days with spoglio. Merchandise.—21 days after landing at the lazaret.

WITH DOUBTFUL BILLS OF HEALTH.