FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, NEW YORK.—Page [18].

To
Nuremberg and back

A Girl's Holiday

BY
AMY NEALLY

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK
E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
31 West Twenty-third Street
1892

Copyright, 1892
By E. P. Dutton and Company

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

TO NUREMBERG AND BACK.

A GIRL'S HOLIDAY.

CHAPTER I.
AN UNEXPECTED PLEASURE.

One day in the early spring, Alice Winter came home from school, and, after the usual question at the door, "Is mamma at home?" rushed upstairs, and found to her great surprise that her papa was at home, talking very earnestly to Mrs. Winter.

When Alice came into the room, Mr. Winter stopped talking, and she wondered very much what they could have been talking about so earnestly, as all she heard was her papa asking, "Do you think we had better take her with us?"

"Why, papa! What is the matter? Are you going away? Are you sick? What made you come home so early?" were the questions which Alice gave rapidly, without waiting for an answer.

Mr. Winter said, "Yes, dear, I am obliged to go to Nuremberg, Germany, on business immediately, and mamma is trying to make up her mind whether it is best for her to go with me. She does not like to leave you for so long a time, and we do not think it wise to take you with us, when you are getting on at school so nicely."

"O papa, please take me with you. I shall learn just as much on such a lovely trip as at school, and you know I can take care of mamma, and keep her from being lonely when you are busy. O papa, please ask mamma to let me go. I should be so unhappy to stay without you, even with dear Aunt Edith, and I know there is where you would send me."

"Alice, dear, go to your room and get ready for dinner, and leave us to talk it over," said Mr. Winter. "My dear little daughter knows that no matter which way we decide, it will be as we think is best for all of us. You know it is as hard for us to leave you as it will be for you to let us go."

Alice left the room without another word, with her heart beating very fast from the excitement of it all.

The thought of going to Europe across the great ocean was a very happy one to a bright girl of fifteen who was studying all the time about the places she would visit and the objects of interest she would see, if her papa would only decide to take her.

Alice sat down by the window of her pretty room, and looked out on the village street, far away in the northern part of the State of New York. She wondered how the ocean looked, as she had never seen any larger body of water than that of Lake Erie, when she went with her mother to make a visit in Cleveland.

She also wondered if her state-room on the steamer would be as large as the room she was in; also, would she be sick, and how would all those wonderful cities look; if they could be as beautiful as the pictures she had seen of them.

Then she remembered that only last week she had been studying about the quaint old city of Nuremberg, and wishing she could go there and see all its curiosities.

Alice was startled by the dinner-bell, and could not even wait to brush her hair, she was so anxious to know what her papa had decided.

As Alice went into the dining-room with a very wistful look in her deep-brown eyes, Mr. Winter said, "Well, dear, we have decided to take you with us, and as it is now Wednesday, and we sail Saturday from New York on the 'Etruria,' you will be very busy getting ready, and you must help your mamma all you can."

Alice threw her arms around Mr. Winter's neck, crying with joy, saying at the same time, "Oh, you dear, darling papa, how kind and good you are, and how I do love you!"

After kissing him again and again, she went to her mamma and nearly smothered her with kisses.

Mr. Winter had never been abroad, though he had large business interests there, which had been attended to by a clerk in whom he had the utmost confidence. This clerk had been taken very suddenly and dangerously ill, Mr. Winter had no one else he could send, and found he must go himself and at once.

He telegraphed to the Cunard office for state-rooms, and went home to tell his wife, hardly thinking she would go with him at such short notice, or leave Alice.

Mrs. Winter was not willing he should go without her, and soon decided not only to go, but to take Alice with them.

Alice could hardly eat any dinner, she was so happy and full of excitement.

The next morning Alice went to school to get her books and tell the wonderful news to her teacher and school-mates.

They were nearly as interested as she, for it was quite an event for any one to go to Europe from that quiet village.

It was decided then and there that all would be at the station to see her off on Friday.

When Alice went to her room she found there a new steamer-trunk marked "A. W." in large letters, and then she was busy indeed getting it packed and deciding what to take with her.

Mrs. Winter came in while Alice was almost in despair and said, "This is to be such a hurried trip you will need only a couple of dresses, but you must take all your warm wraps."

Alice laughed and said, "I do not think I shall need them in the spring;" but mamma said, "It is always cold at sea, and you will need your winter clothes."

Friday afternoon our little party started for New York, with the best wishes of their friends, who came to the station for the very last "good-byes." Alice even shed a few tears, but they were soon wiped away, and a happy face looked from the car window, which fortunately was on the side overlooking the Hudson River.

Alice had never seen that lovely river before, and naturally was delighted.

When they passed the Catskill Mountains it was so clear she could see the famous old Mountain House, and, beyond, the immense Kauterskill Hotel, which seemed almost in the clouds, it looked so high.

West Point was the next object of interest, and Alice did hope she could go there sometime and see the cadets do some of their drills.

When they were opposite the Palisades, which stood up in their grandeur, with the softened tints of the setting sun settling upon them, Alice said, "I know I shall see nothing in Europe any finer than that."

Very soon the tall spires and smoke in the distance showed that they were drawing near New York, and after leaving the Hudson they followed the pretty Harlem River, which makes an island of New York City.

Alice was much interested in the bridges, there seemed to be so many of them, and papa told her that the one then in sight was the new Washington bridge, just completed. The next was High bridge, which carries the water over the river into the city. When it was finished it was said to be the finest engineering in the country.

The next bridge was the continuation of the elevated railroad, and then came Macomb's Dam bridge, the oldest of them all, and used simply for driving and walking across, and looked, Alice thought, quite unsafe.

The pretty Madison Avenue bridge was the last they saw as they crossed their own bridge, and were soon in a tunnel which Alice thought would never end.

When they came out of the tunnel the train was nearly at the station, where the noise and bustle were very confusing, and they were glad to get into a carriage to be driven to the Fifth Avenue Hotel.

As it was quite dark, Alice thought it was like a glimpse of fairyland when they reached Madison Square, with its electric lights shining on the trees, and all the bright lights around the hotel.

CHAPTER II.
NEW YORK FOR THE FIRST TIME.

Mr. Winter having telegraphed for rooms, found them ready for him; and on going down to dinner they were delighted to see the corridors and dining-room crowded with people, many of them public characters whom he could point out to Alice, who was so excited she felt the entire evening as if she were in a dream.

Of all the prominent men there Alice was the most interested in General Sherman, with his kind, rugged face.

The "Etruria" sailed at noon on Saturday, and Mrs. Winter and Alice spent the morning buying a few last things, such as a hat and hood and comfortable steamer-chairs.

At eleven o'clock a Fifth Avenue Hotel stage was at the door, and several people beside themselves went in it to the steamer. The ladies had flowers and baskets of fruit, and seemed so bright and happy that Alice for the first time felt a little lonely and homesick.

On reaching the dock there were so many people going on and coming off the steamer, and pushing each other, it was almost impossible to cross the gang-plank and reach their own state-rooms.

Finally they found them, and, instead of nice large rooms, they were so very small that Alice felt she never could live in them for a week or ten days, and the berths were so narrow she said, "O papa, you can never get into one of those in the world."

"Oh, yes, I can," said Mr. Winter, "and perhaps before we reach Liverpool I shall wish they were narrower yet."'

Mrs. Winter and Alice had one room, and Mr. Winter was across the passage with another gentleman.

After settling their valises and rugs they went up on deck to see the people, and also the last of the city itself. Large baskets of fruits and flowers in every shape were constantly being brought on board, and much to Alice's delight there was a large bunch of violets from her school friends at home.

She had been looking at the other people a little enviously, especially at a girl of her own age who had many friends to see her, and her arms full of flowers.

Very soon the gong sounded, and Alice, who had never heard one, put her hands to her ears to shut out the noise. As soon as the man had passed by Alice said,—

"What is that?"

"That is a gong, dear," said her papa, "and is now being used to notify the people who are not sailing on the steamer that it is time to go ashore."

The people who left kissed their friends hurriedly, and went down the gang-plank as if afraid they might be carried away, after all.

After the people were on the dock and the mailbags had been put on the steamer, very slowly but surely the great steamer backed out into the river. Tugs turned her around, and carefully she steamed toward the ocean, trying to avoid the many boats moving about the river in all directions.

THE GREAT STEAMER BACKED OUT INTO THE RIVER.—Page [21].

Alice was rather frightened, and thought they certainly would run into some of them.

Many of the passengers were still waving to their friends, who were also waving to them from the dock as long as they could distinguish it at all.

Very soon they could see the famous statue of the Goddess of Liberty, that holds its light so high in the air; then lovely Staten Island, with its green hills and fine houses.

The two forts, Hamilton and Wordsworth, which guard the entrance to the harbor, were soon left behind, and on the left could be seen Coney Island, with its large hotels and elephant and high elevator.

Suddenly, as they were looking at the largest hotel of all, the one at Rockaway Beach, the steamer stopped. Alice, rather startled, said,—

"Oh, dear! what is the matter?"

"They are going to drop the pilot," said her papa.

"Where?" said Alice. "In the water?"

"Oh, no," said Mr. Winter; "do you see that small boat rowing towards us?"

"Yes, papa. Will he drop into that? He never can; he will surely fall into the water."

Mr. Winter smiled and told her to go and watch from the rail, which she did, and soon saw the pilot go down the side of the steamer by a rope and drop into the little row-boat, where two men were waiting to row him to the pretty pilot-boat No. 4, which was quite a distance away.

The steamer started immediately, and in five minutes the row-boat was only a speck on the water.

"There is another hotel, papa. What is it?" said Alice.

"That is the Long Beach Hotel, and you will not see another until you reach Liverpool," said her papa.

CHAPTER III.
LIFE ON A STEAMER.

"Come, Alice," said Mrs. Winter, "we will go down to our state-room and unpack our trunks while we are in smooth water, for to-morrow morning it may be so rough we cannot get out of our berths at all."

Alice went with her mamma and helped put everything in order, but there were so few hooks and no bureau she did not know at first where to put anything.

Mrs. Winter decided to sleep in the lower berth and have Alice on the sofa, which gave them the top berth for a bureau, and they found themselves very comfortable.

Alice wanted to put some little things around to look pretty, but her mamma said, "No, dear, for if the ship rolls they will be all over the floor."

Alice laughed and said, "I guess the 'Etruria' never rolls enough for that; she is too big."

"Wait and see," quietly said her mamma.

Mrs. Winter said, "Now we will put on our warm wraps and go on deck."

Mr. Winter had found their chairs and put them in a nice place. Just as they were being settled in them, the gong was sounded again. "That is for lunch this time," said Mr. Winter, "and I for one am glad, for I am very hungry."

On going to the saloon they were delighted to find that their seats were at the captain's table, and any one who has crossed the ocean with Captain Hains knows what a treat they had before them, if it should be a nice passage and he could be in his seat at the head of the table.

In the afternoon the ship rolled, and when dinner was announced Mrs. Winter thought she would take hers on deck. She was not sick, but was afraid if she left the air she might be. Mr. Winter and Alice went to the table, and Alice was surprised to see the vacant seats around the room. The racks were on the table, so the dishes were held in place, but Alice found it rather uncomfortable keeping her chair.

In the morning Mrs. Winter was too ill to leave her berth, but Alice never felt better in her life. The captain was so pleased to have her at the table to breakfast he put her in her mamma's seat next to him, and when she told him it was her birthday he said, "You shall have a nice cake for your dinner."

After breakfast Alice went up on deck with Mr. Winter, who put her in a comfortable place and covered her up nice and warm. He went down to see his wife.

The sea was a deep, bright blue, with lovely white caps, and when the sun shone on them Alice could see a rainbow on every wave.

Alice became tired of sitting in her chair, and went to the rail to look over the side and see how pretty the water looked as the ship cut through it. Soon the young girl whom she had seen the day before came up to her and said, "Have you ever crossed before?"

Alice said, "No, have you?"

"Oh, yes, several times; and I do enjoy every minute, for I am never sick."

Alice asked her name, and she answered, "Nellie Ford. What is yours and where are you going?"

Alice told her name and that she was going to Nuremberg.

Nellie said, "I have never been there. We are going to Brussels, and it is such a beautiful city."

They talked on until the gong sounded, and agreed to meet again after lunch.

At dinner that night Alice found the cake which the captain had promised her on the table. After thanking him, she asked if she might send a piece of it to her new friend.

"Of course, my dear," said the captain. "It is yours to do with just as you please."

The second day was very much like the first, only Mrs. Winter was able to be on deck, and Nellie Ford introduced her to Mr. and Mrs. Ford, and they soon settled to a little party of six, as passengers on a steamer are very apt to do.

The two girls were together all the time, and joined in a game of ring toss with some more of the young people.

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT.—Page [37].

The days passed away, one very much like another—some pleasant, some stormy and rough, some foggy, with the whistles being blown every two minutes. Alice felt that she should be glad when she saw land again.

One night they met a steamer, and it did look very pretty all lighted up. The "Etruria" set off Roman candles, which were answered by the steamer, and Alice thought that was the most interesting evening of all, even more so than the night of the concert.

The "Etruria" made a very quick trip, and reached Queenstown Friday afternoon. Alice was writing letters in the saloon to send home, when suddenly the steamer stopped.

"Oh, dear, what is the matter?" she cried, jumping to her feet. A gentleman sitting near her said, "It is a fog, and as we are very near Fastnet Rock they do not dare to go on."

Soon a gun was heard in answer to the steamer's whistle, and the gentleman said, "We must be right there now."

Alice went up on deck rather frightened, but as suddenly as the fog had settled upon them it lifted, and directly ahead of them was the straight rock rising out of the water like a sentinel.

The "Etruria" ran up her signal flags and then started on, and in three hours was off Queenstown Harbor, where the tug was waiting for their mails and the few passengers who wished to be landed.

CHAPTER IV.
A FIRST GLIMPSE OF ENGLAND.

Queenstown was soon a thing of the past, and when they went to their rooms the packing was finished, so that the next morning all the time could be spent upon the deck until they landed.

It was a clear, bright morning, but very cold and windy, when the steamer was left to take the tug. On leaving the tug, Alice and Nellie were very careful to each put her left foot first on the dock, as they had been told it would bring them good luck.

There was not much to interest our party in Liverpool except the docks, which of course Alice had been told were the finest in the world. After leaving the Custom House they were driven to the North Western Hotel, and the ladies and two girls waited in the parlor in front of an enormous soft-coal fire, while Mr. Ford and Mr. Winter went into the station, which joins the hotel, and engaged a compartment for London.

Opposite the hotel they could see St. George's Hall, with its two statues in front, one of Queen Victoria and the other of her husband, Prince Albert, when they were young.

Suddenly a noise of horses being rapidly driven was heard, and the girls ran to the window just in time to see the high sheriff's carriage of state being driven to the hotel to take him away to open court. It was very elegant, with its satin linings and the four beautiful horses.

The footmen stood up at the back of the carriage, holding themselves on by leather straps. Four men in uniform stood in the street and blew on trumpets until the sheriff was out of sight.

The girls thought it very interesting, but Mrs. Winter said, "A sheriff's position in England must be very different from that in America, where they usually go about in the quietest manner possible."

Mr. Winter and Mr. Ford came in and told them it was time to get some lunch. A very nice one they had, and Alice was particularly interested in the table on wheels, with the joints of meat on it, which was pushed about to each person to select the cut of meat he liked.

Mr. Ford advised their going to the Hotel Victoria in London, as he had tried many others and liked that one the best; so they had telegraphed for rooms before starting on the two o'clock train. All the party were in good spirits, and glad to be on dry land.

Mrs. Winter and Alice did not like the carriage, as it is called in England, as well as the drawing-room car at home, but enjoyed every moment of the journey.

England is like a large garden, every portion being under cultivation; the fields are so green and full of large, beautiful sheep grazing everywhere.

"O mamma, how much more lovely the hedges are than our fences and walls at home!" said Alice.

"Yes, indeed," said Mrs. Winter. "I have always heard they were lovely, but I did not think they would add so much to the beauties of the landscape."

Harrow, with its school on the hill, was passed, and caused some interest to the girls. London was reached before they realized it, and they were driven to the Hotel Victoria in two four-wheeled cabs called "growlers"—why, they did not know, unless people "growl" at their lack of comfort in every way; no springs, narrow, high seats, generally dirty, and a worn-out old horse, whipped the most of the time by a very poor driver.

Their rooms were ready for them, and glad enough they were to get their dinner and go to bed to get rested for the following days, to which the Winters were looking forward with great interest.

NELSON COLUMN.

CHAPTER V.
A WEEK IN LONDON.

Sunday our party rested, but on Monday morning they started for Westminster Abbey, hardly looking at anything on the way, though they went by Trafalgar Square, with the high column erected to Nelson, which stands there so proudly, with its beautiful lions made by Landseer lying so quietly at its base.

A pleasant morning was passed at the Abbey, and the Poets' Corner proved to be their greatest attraction, as it is with most Americans. The chair in which Queen Victoria sat when she was crowned was shown to them, but Alice said she thought it was a common-looking chair, and wondered why the Queen did not have one that was more imposing.

On leaving the Abbey they naturally turned towards the Houses of Parliament, and wishing to get even a better view, they walked part way over Westminster bridge, where they also saw St. Thomas's Hospital, situated on the Surrey side of the Thames.

The walk back to the hotel by way of the Embankment was very pleasant, with its large buildings one side, and the river with its boats moving up and down on the other, and the rumble of the underground railroad beneath their feet. On reaching home they were so tired it was decided to rest in the afternoon and visit Madame Tussaud's wax-works in the evening.

After dinner Mr. Ford said, "How would you like to go to the wax-works by the underground railway? It is not very far, if you think you won't mind the smoke and confined air. The station is very near, and we shall be left at the next building to the wax-works. I have been driven there and it only took about twenty minutes, so I think we can go by train in ten."

"All right," said Mr. Winter; "it will be a good opportunity to see how we shall like it."

Off they all started to the Charing Cross station. The girls did not like going down underground so far, but Alice said to Nellie, "I think I will not say much about it unless mamma does."

After passing three stations, Mr. Winter said, "This air is stifling, do you not think we are nearly there?"

"Oh, yes," said Mr. Ford, "I think it must be the next station."

When they reached it, it was not theirs, and Mr. Ford called out to the guard, "How many more stations before we reach Baker Street?"

The man looked at him rather queerly, and said, "Fourteen. Where did you get on the train?"

"At Charing Cross," said Mr. Ford.

"Oh," said the guard, "you have taken a train for the outer circle and come the longer way; some one should have told you."

The train moved on, and our party had nothing to do but sit patiently and try not to think how close and stifling the air was getting.

When they were once more in the fresh air Mr. Ford said, "Driving in cabs suits me pretty well, and that is the way I am going home, if I go alone."

There was not a dissenting voice, and after a very pleasant evening they had a lovely drive home in three hansom cabs, and it only took them sixteen minutes.

Tuesday morning was spent in visiting the Bank of England and St. Paul's Cathedral, where the young people and the gentlemen went upstairs to the Whispering Gallery.

They all went down to the Crypt, where are many tombs, among them those of Nelson and Wellington.

The great object of interest to them was the immense funeral car which was made to carry the body of the Duke of Wellington through the streets of London to his last resting-place.

The wheels were made from pieces of cannon picked from the field of Waterloo.

Mr. Ford took them to a quaint, old-fashioned place noted for its soups, for lunch.

In the afternoon the Tower of London was visited, and of course was of more interest to the Winters than to the Fords.

To Alice it was very realistic, it was so full of English history. She could tell her mamma much more than could the man, in his strange costume, who showed them around.

That night the ladies and the two girls were too tired to go out again, so Mr. Ford took Mr. Winter and they did a little sight-seeing on their own account.

Wednesday was given up to visiting the Buckingham Palace stables, where they saw the Queen's famous ponies that are only used on state occasions; and the South Kensington Museum, which they found very interesting.

TOWER OF LONDON.—Page [40].

In the evening they went to the theatre, and Alice thought it very strange to go downstairs to their seats. The audience looked so much better than in America, as the ladies were in evening dress and the gentlemen in dress suits.

Thursday was a lovely day, and was spent at Hampton Court. They went on the outside of a coach, and what a lovely drive it was through Richmond and Bushy Park, with its wonderful horse-chestnut trees all in bloom!

HAMPTON COURT.

The coach stopped at a little inn beside the river, where they lunched before visiting the famous court, once the home of Henry the Eighth, and presented to him by Cardinal Wolsey. It is now the home of certain ladies of small income who are alone in the world. They are selected by the Queen, and of course have only one portion of the palace.

The remainder is occupied as state apartments and a famous picture-gallery, beside a gun-room only second in interest to that of the Tower.

Friday was given to Windsor Castle and the Crystal Palace.

Saturday they shopped and visited the Royal Academy, where they saw a beautiful collection of paintings, and only wished there was more time to spend looking at them.

Mr. and Mrs. Ford decided to go with the Winters as far as Brussels, and as they were to start on Monday it was thought best to keep very quiet on Sunday.

Mrs. Winter said to her husband she wished they could stay longer in London, where every minute had been a delight; but he said it was impossible.

CHAPTER VI.
OFF FOR THE CONTINENT.

Monday morning was bright and clear, and Mr. Ford said, "This looks like a pleasant crossing of the Channel."

The ride in the cars to Dover was very interesting, and the view of Canterbury Cathedral was quite fine.

Quite a large boat was waiting for the train, and the water looked so smooth Alice said,—

"I guess the people who are sick crossing this Channel do not know much of ocean discomfort."

Like a good many travellers who see the Channel for the first time, she thought it must always be quiet.

It proved to be a very smooth trip, and only a little over an hour was spent in crossing.

The train left Calais fifteen minutes after the arrival of the boat, and the gentlemen bought nice luncheons which were put up in baskets,—chicken, bread and butter, and a bottle of wine.

They found a good compartment, and away they went, eating their lunch and enjoying the views from the windows at the same time.

Belgium is called the garden of Europe, as vegetables are raised there for all the principal cities.

The country is flat and rather uninteresting to look at, but when one realizes that the willows which surround the farms are used by the women and children to make baskets which are sent all over the world it becomes very interesting.

The land is divided by water wide enough for flat-bottomed boats to be rowed about, that the farmers may till their land and bring home the products in them.

It seemed very strange to see women at work in the fields, but Mr. Ford said they would get used to that before they reached Nuremberg.

It was dark when the train drew in at the station at Brussels, and they took a stage marked "Grand Hotel," and were driven through the principal street of the city. The shops were all lighted, and the streets and sidewalks full of people.

Outside the restaurants little tables were set on the sidewalks, and men and women were eating and drinking.

It was a sight the Winters had never seen, and it looked very strange to them.

"It is just like Paris on a small scale," said Mr. Ford.

Excellent rooms were ready for them at the hotel, as they had been telegraphed for by Mr. Ford, who was in the habit of going there every year.

They had a delicious supper, and Mr. Winter said,—

"That is the best meal I have seen since leaving America."

The ladies had found the cars very hard to travel in, and were glad to go to their rooms.

The next day Mrs. Winter was so thoroughly used up that Mr. Winter decided to stay in Brussels a few days for her to get rested.

The girls were delighted, as they had become very fond of each other and were dreading the separation.

BRUSSELS BOURSE.

Mr. Ford had to go out on business, and Mrs. Ford said she would entertain Mrs. Winter if Mr. Winter would take the girls sight-seeing. They started on their walk in high spirits, and found such wide, clean streets, interesting shops, and large, handsome buildings.

The new Exchange just completed, and the Palace of Justice, are two of the most magnificent civic buildings in Europe.

They were much interested in a lace manufactory. On the lower floor were women at work on the finest patterns. They were all ages, from twenty to seventy, and never looked up while their work was being examined.

When the girls were leaving the room, Alice laughed at some remark of Nellie's, and then every head was lifted and a sad smile came on each face for a second.

Mr. Winter bought two lace handkerchiefs for the girls to take as presents to their mothers.

Through the remainder of their stay in Brussels they had lovely drives in the beautiful park, visited the Palace of Justice, situated at the end of a long street, on a hill where there was a glorious view of the surrounding country for miles.

They also found that the picture gallery had a very fine collection—indeed, said to be the best in Belgium, and the pictures were beautifully arranged in schools and periods.

One day was given to the field of Waterloo, which they all enjoyed very much.

Alice felt so unhappy to be parted from Nellie that Mr. Winter finally persuaded Mr. and Mrs. Ford to let Nellie go with them to Nuremberg, as it would give her a delightful trip, and she was equally miserable to be left in Brussels without Alice.

It was decided to meet in Paris, have an enjoyable week together, and sail for home on the "Etruria" near the middle of July.

CHAPTER VII.
UP THE RHINE.

On Monday, Mr. and Mrs. Winter and the girls said "good-bye" to Mr. and Mrs. Ford and started for Cologne in the gayest of spirits.

The trip was found very interesting, as they followed the Meuse River a great deal of the way. Between Liège and Verviers the country was wonderfully picturesque, with the pretty winding river, which they continually crossed, and little villages with the mountains in the distance.

The Meuse has been called the miniature Rhine.

Verviers is the last Belgian station, and Aix-la-Chapelle is the first town of much interest in Germany.

From the train there was an excellent view of the city, which has seen many changes since it was the favorite home of Charlemagne.

COLOGNE CATHEDRAL.

For more than three centuries the German emperors were crowned there.

It was growing dark as Cologne was reached, but the girls, knowing the cathedral was near the station, hurried outside to see it, and how wonderfully high and beautiful the noble great spires looked in the twilight no one can imagine who has never seen them.

Tuesday morning was spent in visiting the Church of St. Ursula (which is reputed to hold the bones of eleven thousand virgins martyred by the Huns) and the cathedral.

An excellent guide showed our party around, and pointed out the beautiful windows which King Ludwig presented, costing eighteen thousand pounds, English money.

The late King Frederick gave one elegant window, at the end opposite the entrance.

On one side of the building were windows made by Albert Dürer, considered Germany's greatest artist.

A large gold cross, presented by Marie de Medici, and costing an enormous sum of money, Alice thought was more beautiful than the windows.

On the way back to the hotel they met a company of soldiers who were singing as they marched along. It seemed very inspiring.

Wednesday morning this happy party took the train for Mayence up the Rhine, as the boats, they found, were not yet running.

Alice and Nellie had been reading up the legends of the Rhine, and could hardly wait to see its beauties and wonders.

The Rhine was not reached until after leaving Bonn. The scenery was so pretty they did not miss the river views.

In full view of the train was the famous avenue of horse-chestnuts, three-quarters of a mile in length. There is a large university at Bonn, and many other schools. As many of the students in their different costumes came to the station and walked up and down the platform to show themselves, the girls were very much amused.

The city is also noted as being the birthplace of Beethoven.

As soon as Bonn was out of sight, the river was beside them. At first the entire party were disappointed, the river seemed so quiet, narrow, and sluggish, compared to the rivers at home.

However, that was soon forgotten as its beauties grew upon them.

They soon saw the Seven Mountains coming into view, and wished they could stay over one night to see the sun rise from the top.

Mr. Winter felt he must hurry on, as they had spent so much time in Brussels, and see all they could from the train.

At Oberwinter, where there is the finest view down the Rhine, all the party looked back to see it.

Coblence was the next large town, and the situation is beautiful, as it is at the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle, with the strong fortifications opposite, the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, often called the Gibraltar of the Rhine.

Just after leaving Coblence they saw two castles, one the royal castle of Stolzenfels on its "proud rock," more than four hundred feet above the river. It was destroyed by the French in the seventeenth century, but is now completely restored.

The other castle is directly opposite, above the mouth of the Lahn river, is called the Castle of Lahneck, and has been lately restored. Alice knew the legend of this castle, and told it to the rest of the party.

"It was here, in the beginning of the fourteenth century, that the order of Knights Templars, which had been founded for religious purposes chiefly, was severely persecuted by Philippe le Beau of France and Pope Clement V.

LAHNECK CASTLE.—Page [54].

"After many vicissitudes there was a long and desperate siege, in which all the knights fell except one man. He held the commander at bay, who was so overpowered by the knight's bravery he offered him life and liberty if he would stop fighting and beg for mercy.

"The templar's only answer was to throw his spear among the soldiers, and then was killed by throwing himself on their lances."

Boppart was the next town of any interest, it being a walled town of Roman origin.

The wall had crumbled away in many places, and houses had been built on the ruins.

On the opposite side of the river was Bornhoffen, with its twin castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, or "The Brothers."

Mr. Winter told this legend, which runs that once a rich knight, with his two sons and one daughter, lived there, and were very rich in gold and lands, which the old knight had gained through wrong and robbery. All his neighbors felt sure that such ill-gotten wealth would bring him anything but blessings.

The brothers inherited the avarice of the father; but the sister was lovely and gentle, like her mother. When the father died the brothers gave their sister much less than a third of the property. She gave hers to the cause of religion and went into a convent.

The brothers, disappointed, disputed over their share, and at last fell in love with the same maiden, who did not hesitate to flirt with both and increase their jealousy. They finally fought and killed each other.

Just as Mr. Winter finished his story, the guard of the train put his head into the car window, to say that the Lorely rock was nearly in sight.

CHAPTER VIII.
THE LEGEND OF THE LORELY.

Both girls jumped to their feet, for of course they were interested to see that famous rock where the water-nymph Lore was said to have lived. She would appear on the top of the rock, clothed in wonderful garments, and a veil of the color of the sea-green water reaching to her feet, to lure wicked people to destruction by her singing.

The people who came to the foot of the rock were swallowed in the waves, while those who tried to climb to the top were either thrown back into the water or led through the dense woods, only to be days finding their way out of them.

Lore was very kind to good people, having the fairy power of distinguishing good from evil.

At last a young count, much to his father's unhappiness, saw and fell in love with her. He constantly went to gaze upon her, for she was very beautiful.

He used to carry his zither and play and sing to her, until she finally caused the waves to rise so high that his boat was upset and broken. The count sank into the waves, and his attendants returned home to tell the father the sad news.

The old count swore revenge, and was going to seize Lore and have her burnt. The next night he took some friends and surrounded the rock.

When Lore appeared the old count said, "Where is my son?"

Lore pointed to the waves, at the same time continuing to sing very sweetly.

As soon as Lore had finished her song, she threw a stone into the river, which caused a wave to rise. She mounted it and sank from view with it, never to be seen again, though her singing was often heard by men passing by.

The rock was formerly called Lorely, but is now Lurlei, and has a lovely echo said to be the gift of Lore.

The girls were disappointed to see the water around the rock so very quiet—no whirlpool at all.

When they saw that a cut had been made through the rock for railroad trains, all the romance was gone for them.

Alice said, "O papa, how could anybody spoil that pretty story by running trains through the rock? If that is the way my romances are going to end I will not read any more."

However, she soon saw a house built in the river, and wanted to know what it was and why it was there.

"I know," said Nellie. "I was reading about it the other day."

It is called the Pfalz, and was built by Louis of Bavaria in the thirteenth century, in order to exact tribute from passing vessels.

Opposite is the town of Bacharach, the Ara Bacchi of the Romans, and has long been famous for its wines. In Longfellow's "Golden Legend" is the old rhyme,—

"At Bacharach on the Rhine,

At Hochheim on the Main,

And at Würzburg on the Stein,

Grow the three best kinds of wine."

The Bacchus-Altar is to be found in this lovely country. It stands just below the town, but the water has to be very low to read the inscription (which is nearly illegible), as it is situated between the bank of the river and an islet.

The Altar is supposed to have been erected by the Romans to their god of wine.

Many other castles, some restored, but the most of them in ruins, were passed, before Assmanshausen, famous for its red wines, was reached.

Mr. Winter said, "Now this ends what is called 'the great gorge of the Rhine,' and the river will broaden, and the open country, not very interesting, is before you."

Just before reaching Bingen they saw the ruins of Ehrenfels, and in the middle of the river the Mausthurm, or "Mouse Tower."

"O papa, I know the story of that tower," said Alice. "Can I tell it?"

"We are only too glad to hear it," said her mamma.

"Hatto was Bishop of Fulda, and wishing to be made Archbishop of Mayence, used every means in his power to accomplish his purpose. He succeeded, and became very ambitious, proud, and cruel. He taxed the poor to build for himself fine dwellings.

MOUSE TOWER.—Page [61].

"At last he built the tower in the river where it was very narrow, to compel all ships to pay him toll.

"A famine set in, and he, having plenty of money, bought up everything and filled his granaries. He sold his stores at such high prices that only the rich could buy.

"He paid no heed to the supplications of the famishing people, as he intended building a superb palace with his money.

"One day when Hatto was entertaining friends at dinner, the starving people forced their way into the dining-hall and begged for food. He told them to go to a large barn where corn should be given them. When they were all inside, Hatto ordered the doors to be closed and fastened on the outside and the barn to be set on fire.

"When their shrieks reached the dining-hall, Hatto turned to his guests and said, 'Hear how the corn-mice squeal: I do the same to rebels as I do to them.'

"The wrath of Heaven was turned against him, for out of the ashes at the barn thousands of mice took their way to the palace, filling the rooms and attacking Hatto. Thousands were killed, but they steadily increased, and he was finally obliged to flee in terror of his life to a boat, still pursued by legions.

"Hatto was ferried over the Rhine to the tower, but the mice perforated the walls, and fell on him by the thousands, and ate him up. They then disappeared, and the tower has been called the 'Mouse Tower' ever since.

"It has never been used in any way, but stands as a warning to despotic people."

Mr. Winter said, "Alice, you told that very well; but he was not such a very wicked man as the legend makes him. He was imperious and caused his people much suffering, but was the Emperor's confidant and was called the Heart of the King."

Bingen is not a very interesting town, but has many walks and drives that are full of interest in every way.

Directly opposite, on the heights of Niederwald, is the beautiful monument built to commemorate the restitution of the German Empire in 1870-1871.

Alice and Nellie did wish they could stop long enough to go up and see it, it looked so grand and mighty outlined against the sky. Mr. Winter said, "No, we must get to Mayence to-night."

There was not much of interest after leaving Bingen, as the train left the river and the Rhine was not seen again until just before entering Mayence, where the Main flows most peacefully into it, making a very beautiful picture.