Classic Variations in Cooking with Texas Eggs

Foreword

This recipe book has been designed to demonstrate the versatility of cooking with Texas eggs. There are dishes that range from elegant Eggs Benedict to simple scrambled eggs. The many ways to add protein to the diet through the use of Texas eggs are included here in suggestions for main dishes, snacks, and desserts.

Basic instructions on the most common preparation of Texas eggs serve as the introduction to the book. There are also sections on French dishes, Tex-Mex favorites, American and international entrees, and desserts.

The Texas Department of Agriculture is most grateful to the American Egg Board, which granted us permission to reprint their recipes and the interesting comments on dishes which compose most of the book. Many of the color photographs also were provided by the American Egg Board.

Reagan V. Brown Commissioner of Agriculture

A Note About Texas Eggs

An egg is an egg is an egg?

Maybe so, say some cooks. After all, the national egg industry functions under the same sanitation regulations, the same standards on grading for quality and size. But most Texans believe that there is something better about foods produced close to home.

As long as you’re taking the time to prepare foods that are appealing, attractive, and nutritious, serve the best—fresh, wholesome eggs from Texas.

LOOK FOR THE TAP SYMBOL,
OR THE WORDS,
“PRODUCED IN TEXAS.”

Following A Recipe That Calls For Eggs

1. Slightly beaten: Use a fork or whisk to beat eggs just until the yolks and whites are blended.

2. Well beaten: Use a mixer or blender to beat eggs until they are light, frothy and evenly colored.

3. Thick and lemon-colored: Beat yolks in a mixer for about 5 minutes or in a blender for about 2 minutes until they become a pastel yellow and form ribbons when the beater is lifted or they are dropped from a spoon.

4. Stiff but not dry: Beat whites with a mixer or whisk until they no longer slip when the bowl is tilted.

5. Gently folded: When combining beaten egg whites with other heavier mixtures, handle carefully so that the air beaten into the whites is not lost. It’s best to pour the heavier mixture onto the beaten egg whites. Then gradually combine the ingredients with a rubber spatula, turning the bowl slowly. Don’t stir.

6. Separating whites and yolks: There are various kitchen gadgets on the market which will separate eggs, but the most common method is to crack the egg in the center and shift the yolk from one half of the egg shell to the other, allowing the white to slip into a bowl and being careful not to break the yolk. Eggs are easiest to separate when cold, but whites reach their fullest volume if allowed to stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes before beating.

7. Cook until coats a metal spoon: For stirred custard mixtures, the eggs are cooked properly when a thin film adheres to a metal spoon dipped into the custard.

8. Cook until a knife inserted near center comes out clean: Baked custard mixtures are done when a metal knife inserted off center comes out clean. The very center may still not be quite done, but the heat retained in the mixture will continue to cook it after removal from the oven.

* * * * * * * *

All recipes in this book are designed for large size eggs.

* * * * * * * *

Other suggestions and tips on cooking with Texas eggs are included in the following pages.

Basic Recipes for Texas Eggs

Master these first, then create your own dishes with sauces, leftover meats, preserves, or favorite spices.

SCRAMBLED EGGS

2 servings

In a book titled “The Old Virginia Gentleman,” its author, George Bagby, describes scrambled eggs as a “necessary.” For breakfast, for sandwiches, or as the original skillet supper, families all over the country agree with Mr. Bagby.

4 eggs

¼ C. milk

½ tsp. salt

Dash pepper

2 T. butter

Beat together eggs, milk, salt and pepper with a fork, mixing thoroughly for uniform yellow, or just slightly for white and yellow streaks. Heat butter in 8-inch fry pan over medium heat until just hot enough to sizzle a drop of water. Pour in egg mixture. As mixture begins to set, turn a pancake turner over and gently draw completely across the bottom of pan, forming large soft curds. Continue until eggs are thickened, but do not stir constantly. Cook until eggs are thickened throughout but still moist.[1]

Egg Tortilla, recipe on [page 18].

FRIED EGGS

1 serving

More people greet each day with fried eggs than any other style. Perhaps you’re a sunnyside up fan, or over-easy or basted is your preference.

1 to 2 T. butter

Eggs

Salt

Pepper

In fry pan over medium-high heat, cook butter until just hot enough to sizzle a drop of water. (If a very large pan is used, more butter will be needed.)

Break and slip eggs into pan. Reduce heat immediately. Cook slowly to desired doneness, spooning butter over eggs to baste or turning eggs to cook both sides. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

POACHED EGGS

The word poach comes from the French pocher which means to place in a pocket. Properly poached, the yolk is pocketed smoothly in the white. Breaking each egg into a saucer before slipping it into the water is gentler than cracking it directly in, and prevents mishaps.

Oil

Water, milk or broth

Eggs

Lightly oil a saucepan. Add enough water to fill 2 inches deep. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to keep water at a simmer.

Break eggs, one at a time, into dish, then slip each egg into water, holding dish close to water’s surface. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes depending on desired doneness. When done, lift eggs with slotted pancake turner or spoon onto absorbent paper. Drain and trim edges, if desired.

Eggs Benedict, recipe on [page 7].

BAKED (SHIRRED) EGGS

4 servings

Baking is a good way to prepare eggs in quantity—you can multiply the following recipe to serve a larger group. The addition of cream gives the eggs a softer finish than that of standard fried or poached eggs.

8 eggs

Salt

Pepper

¼ C. half and half or light cream

4 tsp. butter, divided

Grease four ramekins, shallow baking dishes, or large custard cups. Break and slip two eggs into each ramekin. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon 1 tablespoon half and half over each serving. Dot each with 1 teaspoon butter.

Bake in preheated 350° F. oven until whites are set and yolks are soft and creamy, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

SOFT-COOKED EGGS

Eggs started in unheated water are less apt to crack than ones put into boiling water. Follow the directions below, and for a special treat, serve soft-cooked eggs in egg cups, in the European fashion.

Eggs

Water

Put eggs in single layer in saucepan. Add enough tap water to come at least 1 inch above eggs. Cover and quickly bring just to boiling. Turn off heat. If necessary, remove pan from burner to prevent further boiling. Let eggs stand covered in the hot water 1 to 4 minutes, depending on desired doneness. Immediately run cold water over eggs or put them in ice water until cool enough to handle.

To serve, break shell through middle with a knife. With a teaspoon, scoop egg out of each half shell into serving dish. To serve in an egg cup, put the egg in cup small end down, slice off large end of egg with knife and eat from shell.

HARD-COOKED EGGS

No wonder “hard boiled” has come to mean a tough character—boiling toughens the delicate protein of egg. Gentler cooking pays off in tenderness. The following method of turning the heat off when the water approaches the boiling point has two advantages—it won’t toughen the egg, and it saves energy.

Eggs

Water

Put eggs in single layer in saucepan. Add enough tap water to come at least 1 inch above eggs. Cover and quickly bring just to boiling. Turn off heat. If necessary, remove pan from burner to prevent further boiling. Let eggs stand covered in the hot water 15 to 17 minutes for large eggs. (Adjust time up or down by about 3 minutes for each size larger or smaller.) Immediately run cold water over eggs or put them in ice water until completely cooled.

To remove shell, crack it by tapping gently all over. Roll egg between hands to loosen shell, then peel, starting at large end. Hold egg under running cold water or dip in bowl of water to help ease off shell.

Time-Tested Favorites

EGG SALAD

4 servings or 2 cups

This popular combination of hard-cooked eggs, mayonnaise, and seasonings is often served in sandwiches or in scooped-out tomatoes. It is great, too, served in a lettuce cup.

¼ C. mayonnaise

2 tsp. lemon juice

1 tsp. instant minced onion

½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. pepper

6 hard-cooked eggs

½ C. finely chopped celery

4 lettuce leaves

Blend together mayonnaise, lemon juice, onion, salt and pepper. Cut 4 slices from center of 1 egg and reserve for garnish. Chop all remaining eggs. Stir chopped eggs and celery into mayonnaise mixture until moistened throughout.

For each serving, spoon about ½ cup into a lettuce leaf. Garnish with reserved egg slice.

Variations: Add any of the following ingredients to taste:

Sliced or chopped ripe or green pitted olives

Chopped green pepper, mushrooms, parsley, chives or watercress

Shredded carrots

Shredded Cheddar or Swiss cheese

Crumbled bacon

Chopped pimiento strips, onions

DEVILED EGGS

8 to 10 servings

These stuffed eggs are so popular at picnics and buffets that the name “deviled” seems undeserved. It comes from the fiery seasonings sometimes used; milder variations are below.

6 hard-cooked eggs

2 T. mayonnaise

½ to 1 tsp. prepared mustard

½ tsp. lemon juice

¼ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. Worcestershire sauce

⅛ tsp. pepper

Cut eggs in half lengthwise. Remove yolks and set whites aside. Mash yolks with fork, then blend in remaining ingredients. Refill whites using about 1 tablespoon yolk mixture for each egg half.

Variations: Add any of the following ingredients to yolk mixture:

Chopped parsley or chives

Deviled ham

Drained tiny shrimp or flaked tuna

Minced onion

Finely minced ham

Sweet pickle relish

Parsley flakes

Finely chopped pitted ripe or green olives, radishes or celery

Grated Parmesan cheese

Shredded Cheddar cheese

Toasted sesame seeds or finely chopped nuts

MEAT BATTER:

Enough for 1 broiler or 6 servings of fried meat

This may be used for batter-fried chicken or one version of chicken-fried steak. Spices such as garlic salt or paprika may be added to the flour to change the flavor from time to time.

2 eggs

½ C. milk

1 C. unsifted flour

1 tsp. double-acting baking powder

½ tsp. salt

In a deep bowl, beat the eggs and milk lightly. Combine the remaining ingredients and add to the egg mixture, a small quantity at a time. Stir just until the batter is smooth. Set the batter aside for 30 minutes. Dip the meat in the batter until it is well-coated and fry in hot oil or shortening.

PICKLED EGGS

12 appetizers

In Pennsylvania Dutch Country, Pickled Eggs are a sign of summertime. Vary the flavor by substituting pineapple juice or canned beet liquid for the vinegar. The latter gives them a rosy look.

2 C. white vinegar

2 T. sugar

1 med. onion, sliced and separated into rings

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. whole mixed pickling sauce

12 hard-cooked eggs

In medium saucepan combine all ingredients except eggs. Simmer over low heat, uncovered, until onion is tender, about 10 minutes.

Arrange eggs in each of two 1-quart jars with tight-fitting lids. Pour 1 cup vinegar mixture over eggs in each jar. Cover and refrigerate several hours or overnight to blend flavors. Eggs may be stored in refrigerator up to 2 weeks.

MAYONNAISE

About 1¼ cups

2 egg yolks or 1 whole egg

2 T. vinegar or lemon juice, divided

1 tsp. sugar

1 tsp. dry mustard

½ tsp. salt

Dash cayenne pepper

1 C. salad oil, divided

In small mixing bowl, beat together egg yolks, 1 tablespoon vinegar, sugar, mustard, salt and cayenne at medium speed until blended. Continue beating, adding ¼ cup salad oil drop by drop. Add remaining oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating constantly. Slowly beat in remaining vinegar. Chill thoroughly.

To prepare in blender: Measure ¼ cup oil and all other ingredients into blender container. Blend at high speed 5 seconds. Blending at high speed, add remaining oil very slowly until thick and smooth. (If necessary, turn off blender occasionally and clean sides with rubber spatula.) Chill thoroughly.

EGGS BENEDICT

4 servings

In the dining room of the Waldorf one day in 1894, an inventive but hungover Lemuel Benedict created a dish that would forever bear his name. He put together buttered toast, crisp bacon, poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce—and a classic was born! Oscar of the Waldorf, a menu maker of the first order, altered the bacon to ham and the toast to English muffins.

4 English muffins, split, toasted and buttered

8 poached eggs

¾ C. Hollandaise Sauce

16 slices Canadian-style bacon, broiled or pan-fried

Top each English muffin half with 2 slices bacon, 1 poached egg, and about 1 tablespoon hot Hollandaise Sauce. Serve hot.

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

About ¾ cup

While this is a French concoction, the name may come from the fact that Holland is famous for its butter, a main constituent of the sauce. Louis Diat, chef extraordinaire and sauce expert formerly with New York City’s Ritz Carlton, wrote that “if the sauce does curdle, you can bring it back to homogenous thickness by putting a fresh egg yolk in another pan and gradually whipping in the curdled mixture.” The blender method avoids the curdling problem altogether.

3 egg yolks

2 T. lemon juice

¼ tsp. salt

⅛ tsp. paprika

Dash cayenne pepper

½ C. butter (1 stick), chilled and cut in eighths

In saucepan beat together egg yolks, lemon juice and seasonings. Add half the butter. Cook over low heat, stirring rapidly, until butter melts. Add remaining butter, stirring constantly, until butter melts and sauce thickens. Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.

To prepare in blender: Measure all ingredients except butter into blender container. Melt butter and add to other ingredients. Blend at low speed until sauce thickens, 15 to 20 seconds.

Desserts

BAKED CUSTARD

6 servings

This recipe, the basis for so many others, goes back to the days of ancient Greece. Unlike modern cooks, however, the Greeks thought it suitable only for women and children. The pan of water (or water bath) that the custard cups sit in during baking promotes even cooking.

4 eggs, slightly beaten

½ C. sugar

¼ tsp. salt

3 C. milk, heated until very warm

1½ tsp. vanilla

Nutmeg

Beat together eggs, sugar and salt until well blended. Gradually stir in hot milk. Blend in vanilla. Pour into six (6 oz. each) custard cups or a 1½-quart casserole. Sprinkle with nutmeg. Set custard cups or casserole in large baking pan, then put pan on rack in oven. Pour very hot water into pan to within ½ inch of top of custard.

Bake in preheated 350° F. oven until a knife inserted near center comes out clean; 25 to 30 minutes for custard cups or 35 to 40 minutes for casserole. Remove immediately from hot water. Serve warm or chilled.

Variation: If desired 1 tablespoon raisins, fruit preserves, drained fruit cocktail, flaked coconut or chopped nuts may be placed in each custard cup before adding custard mixture.

RICE PUDDING

8 servings

Rice came to this country accidentally in a ship blown off course from Madagascar to England. The grateful crew thanked the South Carolina rescuers with a handful of the grains. Just a century later, rice was called “Carolina gold.” In this golden custard pudding, it lives up to the name.

4 eggs

2 C. milk

½ C. sugar

1 T. butter, melted

1 tsp. vanilla

¼ tsp. salt

2 C. cooked rice

⅓ C. raisins, optional

Cinnamon or nutmeg, optional

In medium bowl, beat eggs. Blend in milk, sugar, butter, vanilla and salt. Stir in rice and raisins, if desired. Pour into greased 1½-quart casserole.

Bake in preheated 325° F. oven 35 minutes. Gently stir rice up from bottom of dish. Continue baking until knife inserted halfway between center and outside edge comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes longer.

Sprinkle with cinnamon or nutmeg, if desired.

EASY BAKED CHEESECAKE

10 to 12 servings

2 (8 oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened

1 C. sugar, divided

1½ tsp. vanilla, divided

4 eggs

1 (9-in.) graham cracker crumb crust, baked

¾ C. sour cream

In large mixing bowl beat cream cheese at medium speed until fluffy. Blend in ¾ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Pour into crumb crust.

Bake in preheated 325° F. oven 30 minutes.

Blend together sour cream, remaining ¼ cup sugar and ½ teaspoon vanilla.

Gently spread mixture over top of hot cheesecake and bake until center is set, about 30 minutes longer. Cool completely on wire rack.

Chill until firm, several hours or overnight.

LEMON MERINGUE PIE

6 to 8 servings

2 C. sugar, divided

⅓ C. cornstarch

¼ tsp. salt

1½ C. cold water

½ C. lemon juice

5 eggs, separated

2 T. butter

1 to 3 tsp. grated lemon peel

1 (9-in.) pie shell, baked

¼ tsp. cream of tartar

½ tsp. vanilla

In large saucepan combine 1½ cups sugar, cornstarch and salt. Gradually stir in water and lemon juice until smooth. Beat egg yolks and blend into sugar mixture. Add butter. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until mixture thickens and boils. Boil, stirring constantly, 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in lemon peel. Pour hot filling into baked pie shell.

Meringue: In large mixing bowl beat egg whites and cream of tartar at high speed until foamy. Add remaining ½ cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating constantly until sugar is dissolved[2] and whites are glossy and stand in soft peaks. Beat in vanilla.

Spread meringue over filling starting with small amounts at edges and sealing to crust all around. Cover pie with remaining meringue, spreading evenly in attractive swirls.

Bake in preheated 350° F. oven until peaks are lightly browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool at room temperature.

TIPS ON MAKING MERINGUE

When making meringues and some cakes, sugar is slowly added to beaten egg whites. This serves to increase the stability of the foam. Sugar, however, can retard the foaming of the whites.

If meringue pies weep, it is probably due to several different problems: (1) overcooking (2) incomplete blending of meringue (3) oven temperature too high (4) spreading the meringue on a cold filling (5) overbeating before adding sugar.

CUSTARD PIE

6 to 8 servings

4 eggs

2½ C. milk

½ C. sugar

1½ tsp. vanilla

¼ tsp. salt

1 (9-in.) pie shell, unbaked

⅛ tsp. nutmeg

Beat eggs. Blend in milk, sugar, vanilla and salt. Place pie plate with prepared shell on oven rack. Pour egg mixture into shell. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

Bake in preheated 350° F. oven until knife inserted halfway between center and outside edge comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Serve warm or chilled.

CARROT CAKE

1 (10-inch) tube cake or 10 to 12 servings

2½ C. all-purpose flour

2 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. cinnamon

½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. ginger

¼ tsp. nutmeg

1 C. butter, softened

2 C. sugar

5 eggs, separated

½ C. water

1½ C. shredded carrots

½ C. finely chopped pecans

½ tsp. vanilla

½ tsp. cream of tartar

Stir together flour, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, ginger and nutmeg. Set aside.

In large mixing bowl beat together butter and sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add ¾ cup flour mixture alternately with ¼ cup water, blending thoroughly after each addition. Repeat with remaining flour and water. Stir in carrots, pecans and vanilla.

Wash and dry beaters. In large mixing bowl beat egg whites and cream of tartar at high speed until stiff but not dry, just until whites no longer slip when bowl is tilted. Gently fold whites into yolk mixture. Pour into greased and floured 10-inch tube pan.

Bake in preheated 375° F. oven until wooden pick or cake tester inserted in center comes out clean, about 1½ hours. Cool on wire rack 15 minutes. Remove from pan and cool completely.

Seven Minute Frosting

5 cups

This frosting is named for the seven minutes of cooking and beating needed to form the desired glossy peaks. Some cooks use a double boiler to equalize cooking heat. Cooking should stop the moment the stiff peaks form.

2 egg whites

1½ C. sugar

⅓ C. cold water

⅛ tsp. cream of tartar

⅛ tsp. salt

1 tsp. vanilla

In large saucepan combine all ingredients except vanilla. Beat 1 minute at low speed with portable electric mixer. Place pan over low heat and beat at high speed until stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Add vanilla. Beat until frosting will hold swirls, about 2 minutes longer.

French Dishes with a Texas Flair

Omelets, crepes, souffles, and quiches are becoming routine fare in many homes because cooks have found they are actually simple to prepare and can be combined with a great variety of other foods, especially leftovers. Texans add hot sauces, jalapenos, fresh Texas vegetables, and a range of meats to create Lone Star specials.

Omelets

FRENCH OR PLAIN OMELET

1 serving

2 eggs

2 T. water

¼ tsp. salt

Dash pepper

1 T. butter

Mix eggs, water, salt and pepper with fork. Heat butter in 8-inch omelet pan or fry pan over medium-high heat until just hot enough to sizzle a drop of water. Pour in egg mixture. Mixture should set at edges at once. With pancake turner turned over, carefully push cooked portions at edges toward center so uncooked portions flow to bottom. Tilt pan as necessary so uncooked eggs can flow. Slide pan rapidly back and forth over heat to keep mixture in motion and sliding freely. While top is still moist and creamy-looking, fill, if desired. With pancake turner fold in half or roll, turning out onto plate with a quick flip of the wrist.

Variations: Omelets can be flavored with a variety of herbs and spices. Mix in ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon per omelet.

Omelets can hold almost any leftover food. For each omelet, fill with ⅓ to ½ cup of any of the following:

Shredded or sliced Cheddar, Swiss Mozzarella, Gouda, Provolone, or other firm cheese

Cottage, ricotta or cream cheese

Cooked, drained and crumbled sausage, bacon or ground beef

Flaked canned or cooked fish

Sauteed sliced mushrooms

Sauteed chopped onions or green pepper

Drained, cooked, chopped, diced or sliced vegetables

Drained, canned or chopped or sliced fresh fruit

Chopped nuts

Jelly, jam or preserves