WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Historical Description

OF

WESTMINSTER ABBEY;

ITS

Monuments and Curiosities.

PRINTED FOR THE VERGERS IN THE ABBEY,
BY JAS. TRUSCOTT AND SON, SUFFOLK LANE, CANNON STREET, CITY.

OF ADMISSION.

The North and West doors are open to Visitors. Guides are in attendance, from nine until six every day, except Sunday, Christmas Day, and Good Friday. The Abbey is not open to Visitors after the Afternoon Service during the Winter Months.

THE SERVICES.

On Sunday the entrance to the Abbey is by the North and South Transepts. Divine Service at 8 A.M., at 10 A.M., and at 3 P.M.; and from Easter to the end of July, at 7 P.M. At the usual Sunday Services, and on Saint and Holy Days, at 10 A.M., there is a Sermon. The Holy Communion is celebrated on the first Sunday in the month, at the 10 A.M. Service, and on other Sundays (except when otherwise ordered) at 8 A.M.

The names of the several Chapels, beginning from the south cross, and so passing round to the north cross, are in order as follows:—1. St. Benedict; 2. St. Edmund; 3. St. Nicholas; 4. Henry VII.; 5. St. Paul; 6. St. Edward the Confessor; 7. St. John; 8. Islip’s Chapel, dedicated to St. John the Baptist; 9. St. John, St. Michael, and St. Andrew. The three last are now laid together. The Chapel of Edward the Confessor stands, as it were, in the centre, and is enclosed in the body of the Church. Keep on your right, and the Chapel of St. Benedict is adjoining the Tombs-gate, in which Chapel several Deans were buried. Dean Ireland was buried in front of Camden’s monument, in the same grave with Mr. Gifford, his associate through life.

⁂ Several men intercept all persons as they approach the Abbey, to show them the Courts of Law, Westminster Hall, &c., which are open all day; persons attending to them are oft-times prevented from seeing the Church for that day, as the hours of service intervene.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Of the Foundation of the Abbey.

f the Founding of an Abbey on Thorney Island, where that of Westminster now stands, there are so many miraculous stories related by monkish writers, that the recital of them now would hardly be endured. Even the relations of ancient historians have been questioned by Sir Christopher Wren, who was employed to survey the present edifice, and who, upon the nicest examination, found nothing to countenance the general belief, “that it was erected on the ruins of a Pagan Temple.” No fragments of Roman workmanship were discovered in any part of the building, many of which must undoubtedly have been intermixed among the materials, if a Roman temple had existed before on the same spot.

Nor is the dedication of the first Abbey less involved in mystery than the founding of it. The legend says that Sebert, King of the East Saxons, who died in 616, ordered Melitus, then Bishop of London, to perform the ceremony; but that St. Peter himself was beforehand with him, and consecrated it in the night preceding the day appointed by his Majesty for that purpose, accompanied by angels, and surrounded by a glorious appearance of burning lights.

That this legend continued to be believed after the building itself was destroyed, will appear by a charter which we shall have occasion to mention hereafter; and though nothing can with certainty be concluded from these fictions, yet it may be presumed, that both the ancient church dedicated to St. Paul, in London, and this dedicated to St. Peter, in Westminster, were among the earliest works of the first converts to Christianity in Britain. With their new religion, they introduced a new manner of building; and their great aim seems to have been, by affecting loftiness and ornament, to bring the plain simplicity of the Pagan architects into contempt.

Historians, agreeable to the legend, have fixed the era of the first Abbey in the sixth century, and ascribed to Sebert the honour of conducting the work, and completing that part of it, at least, which now forms the east angle, which probably was all that was included in the original plan.

After the death of that pious Prince, his sons, relapsing into Paganism, totally deserted the church which their father had been so zealous to erect and endow; nor was it long before the Danes destroyed what the Saxons had thus contemptuously neglected.

From this period to the reign of Edward the Confessor, the first Abbey remained a monument of the sacrilegious fury of the times; but, by the prevailing influence of Christianity in that reign, the ruins of the ancient building were cleared away, and a most magnificent structure, for that age, erected in their place. In its form it bore the figure of a cross, which afterwards became a pattern for cathedral-building throughout the kingdom. That politic Prince, to ingratiate himself with his clergy, not only confirmed all former endowments, but granted a new charter, in which he recited the account of St. Peter’s consecration, the ravages of the Danes, and the motives which prompted him to restore the sacred edifice to its former splendour, and endow it with more ample powers and privileges. This charter concluded with solemn imprecations against all who should in time to come, dare to deface or to demolish any part of the building, or to infringe the rights of its priesthood.

Henry III. not only pulled down and enlarged the plan of this ancient Abbey, but added a Chapel, which he dedicated to the Blessed Virgin; but it was not till the reign of Henry VII. that the stately and magnificent Chapel now known by his name was planned and executed. Of this Chapel, the first stone was laid on the 24th January, 1502, and when completed was dedicated, like the former Chapel, to the Blessed Virgin. Henry, designing this as a burying-place for himself and his successors, expressly enjoined by his will, that none but those of the blood-royal should be inhumed therein.

From the death of Henry VII. till the reign of William and Mary, no care was taken to repair or preserve the ancient church. By the robberies made upon it by Henry VIII., and the ravages it sustained during the unhappy civil commotions, its ancient beauty was in a great measure destroyed; nor did their Majesties go about to restore it, till it became an object of parliamentary attention, and till a considerable sum was voted for that purpose only. This vote being passed, Sir Christopher Wren was employed to decorate it and give it a thorough repair, which that able architect so skilfully and faithfully executed, that the building is thought at this day to want none of its original strength, and to have even acquired additional majesty by two new towers.

In 1803 the lantern of the Abbey was destroyed by fire, owing to the negligence of the plumbers, who were employed in repairing the lead flat. This part being the junction of four long timber roofs, it was a merciful providence the whole of this much-esteemed, august, and venerable pile, had not been utterly consumed. The young gentlemen of Westminster School highly distinguished themselves by their exertions for the preservation of the church. The room is handsomely finished, and more suitable with the rest of the building than the old one.

General Admeasurements of the Interior of the Abbey.

The new Choir, designed by Mr. Blore, Architect to the Abbey, is in the style of architecture which prevailed during the reign of Edward the Third; and executed by Mr. Ruddle, of Peterborough, in 1848.

The Dean and Sub-dean’s stalls are on either side of the arch, and are alike in general design, but that of the Dean being more elaborate in ornamental detail. They are octagonal in plan, and have projecting groined canopies, with pediments springing from moulded shafts with carved caps; above the canopies rise an octagonal turret with a spire. The arch is enclosed under a triangular pediment, the space between the pediment and the arch being filled with tracery; the centre of which is a cinque foil enclosing a shield bearing the arms of Edward the Confessor; the ground of this is carved, and the hollows of the pediment and arch mouldings are filled with four-leaved flower peculiar to the style.

The Canons’ stalls have groined canopies with pediments, and the space between the pediment and canopy filled with open tracery; the canopies spring from slender moulded shafts with carved capitals, and are separated by buttresses terminating in pinnacles between the pediments.

The pew fronts are worked in tracery with deep mouldings, and the panels are divided into compartments by buttresses decorated with tracery, crockets, and finials.

The caps and poppy-heads of the desk ends, and the ornamental accessories of the stall work and pews, are carved to represent the foliage of ivy, maple, oak, willow, hop, vine, &c. The carving and tracery exhibit a great variety of design, and are entirely the production of hand labour; the total number of stalls is fifty-two.

The Organ, which formerly stood in the centre, and consequently obstructed the view from west to east, was, in 1848, entirely rebuilt by Mr. Hill, New Road, London. It is placed on the north, south, east, and west sides of the screen, and has three cases. The two principal cases, viz., those under the north and south arches, contain, respectively, the “great” and “swell”: the “solo” and part of the “pedal” organs being placed on the west side, and the small case on the east side of the screen facing the choir contains the “choir” organ. The organist sits behind the latter organ, where the manuals, or key boards, are placed. It may easily be imagined, that to connect these distinct organs with the manuals and pedals, and thus bring them under the command of the performer, was an undertaking of no ordinary difficulty. It has, however, been successfully accomplished by Mr. Hill, who has, by means of a nice mechanical adjustment, succeeded in producing a perfectly easy and light touch. The instrument is now considered one of the finest, as regards tone and construction, in the kingdom. Number of stops, fifty-five, the majority of the pedal stops, being on the great organ sound board.

The marble pavement of the choir was given by Dr. Busby, who was buried beneath it in 1695.

The length of the choir, from iron-gate to altar-rail, is one hundred and sixteen feet six inches; sacrarium, twenty-four feet six inches; altar, fourteen feet six inches; full length, from iron-gate to altar screen, one hundred and fifty-five feet six inches; breadth, thirty-five feet six inches.

The New Reredos.

The Reredos, which is recently put up, is chiefly of white and coloured alabaster from Staffordshire, but combined with a reddish spar from Cornwall: the latter material being adopted from its hardness to give greater strength to the more prominent parts, and from its deeper tone to give a variety of colour to some of the features of the work, which, if it had been made wholly of one material, would have appeared monotonous. It consists of a facade occupying the whole space between two main pillars, having two doors, one on each side of the altar, giving access to the shrine behind. The doorways are arched and richly moulded, and the hollows are filled with bold carving deeply undercut. On either side of each door is a large canopied niche with pedestal, in which are figures of Moses, St. Peter, St. Paul, and David; and on the inner side of each large niche are two smaller ones placed vertically. These niches are all most elaborately wrought with tabernacle work, richly groined and surrounded with pierced tracery, carved bratishing, and complexly terminated with pinnacles, flying buttresses, and spires, all profusely crocketed and finialed. The whole is surmounted with a carved and sculptured cornice of bold proportions. The sculpture, which lies in a large and deep hollow moulding, contains, like the side towards the shrine, fourteen subjects, but they are all scriptural. They are as follow:—1. The Annunciation; 2. The Birth; 3. The Adoration; 4. The Baptism; 5. The First Miracle; 6. Preaching to the Multitude; 7. Gathering the Fragments; 8. Raising of Lazarus; 9. Triumphal Entry; 10. Agony in the Garden; 11. The Crucifixion; 12. The Resurrection; 13. The Ascension; 14. The Gift of Tongues. Among these are interspersed on shields in trefoils the following monograms and emblems:—Alpha and Omega, Agnus Dei, The Chalice, I.H.C., Instruments of the Passion, A Glorified Cross, The Descending Dove. Above the sculpture is a hollow moulding filled with richly carved foliage deeply undercut, and above all is a rich course of carved strawberry-leaf bratishing.

In the space between the inner niches and above the table is a recess wherein is placed an elaborate and minutely finished picture of the Last Supper, in Venetian glass mosaic. It is of large size, and is admirably designed and executed.

The table, which is composed of black and green marble, stands on an elaborately wrought frame of cedar wood. Besides five sculptured panels, and figures of the Evangelists between pillars, it is otherwise richly carved and studded with inlays. The subjects are:—1. Adam and Eve in Paradise; 2. Their Expulsion; 3. The Crucifixion; 4. The Resurrection; 5. The Ascension.

To complete the altar table, there has recently been added a super-altar or shelf of cedar wood, embellished with panels of foliage and monograms, richly carved and gilt. And to complete the Reredos and the mosaic picture, there has been added rich surroundings of cedar wood. Below is a base containing seven zigzag panels of eight points, filled with pictures in mosaic and enamel, and studded with gems. The pictures are, the Annunciation in the centre, and portraits of holy women of Scripture: Ruth, Anna, Elizabeth, Mary Magdalene, Martha, and Dorcas. On this base are pilasters at the ends of similar work, and between are two slender detached pillars, all supporting seven canopies of rich tabernacle work, the central one over the principal figure being the largest. All are profusely gilt.

The floor in front of the reredos is wholly new. That of the upper dais is composed of pleasing patterns of inlaid marble work combined with gold glass. That of the lower dais, and of the dais of the sedilia, is composed of rich and varied patterns of red, green, grey, and buff patterns, in every tone of those colours; the three large circular discs are of purple porphyry, rosso antico, similar to the slabs which decorate the shrine and the tomb of Henry the Third. The steps and bands which surround the patterns are all of Purbeck marble.

The stone seat on the south side, which was lately hidden, has now been restored to its original state and use, and the old wood canopies all forming the sedilia, have been lowered on to the seat of stone and made complete. Viewed as a whole, the rich colours of the alabaster and spar, with its delicate and intricate tabernacle work, the interesting sculpture, the glorious mosaic picture, the richly wrought table below, and the elaborate inlaid marble floor in front, all combine to give an impression of the greatest grandeur, the utmost durability, and the highest art. The whole was executed under the direction and superintendence of G. G. Scott, Esq., R.A. The mosaic picture was designed by Mr. Clayton, and executed at Venice by Dr. Salviati. The table was executed by Messr. Farmer and Brinley, the sculpture of the cornice by Mr. Armstead, and the alabaster and marble work by the Abbey masons, Henry Poole and Sons.

It may not be uninteresting here to add that, in the exploration to which this work gave opportunity, there were discovered on the north side of the sacrarem and lower dais, about three feet below the pavement, the bases of three piers which were left here of the old Abbey of the Confessor. They are of early Norman character, and, from their position, shew that that early structure was nearly equal in size to the present structure of Henry the Third. They possess such great interest that means have been adopted so to cover them with the pavement that they can be uncovered and exposed to view.

On the sides of the altar are the curious and ancient monuments of King Sebert; Ann of Cleves, Henry the Eighth’s wife; Aveling, Countess of Lancaster; Aymer de Valence; and Edmund Crouchback. The mosaic pavement was done by Richard de Ware, Abbot of Westminster in the year 1260, who brought from Rome the stones, and workmen to set them; it is much admired; and there were letters round it in brass, which composed Latin words. The design of the figures that were in it was to represent the time the world was to last, or the primum mobile, according to the Ptolemaic system then in vogue, and was given in some verses, formerly to be read on the pavement, relating to those figures. The following explanation is given of them:—

If the reader will probably revolve all these things in his mind, he will find them plainly refer to the end of the world.

The threefold hedge is put for three years, the time a dry hedge usually stood; a dog, for three times that space, or nine years, it being taken for the time that creature usually lives; a horse, in like manner, for twenty-seven; a man, eighty-one; a hart, two hundred and forty-three; a raven, seven hundred and twenty-nine; an eagle, two thousand one hundred and eighty-seven; a great whale, six thousand five hundred and sixty-one; the world, nineteen thousand six hundred and eighty-three; each succeeding figure giving a term of years imagined to be the time of their continuance, three times as much as that before it.

In the last four verses, the time when the work was performed, and the parties concerned in it, are expressed; that Henry III. was at the charge; that the stones were purchased at Rome; that one Oderick was the master workman; and that the Abbot of Westminster, who procured the materials, had the care of the work.

The solemn offices of crowning and enthroning the sovereigns of England takes place in the centre of the sacrarium, and beneath the lantern is erected the throne at which the peers do homage. When the crowns are put on, the peers and peeresses put on their coronets, and a signal is given from the top of the Abbey for the Tower guns to fire at the same instant.

To take an advantageous view of the inside, you must go to the west door, between the towers; and the whole body of the church opens itself at once to your eye, which cannot but fill the mind of every beholder with the awful solemnity of the place, caused by the loftiness of the roof, and the happy disposition of the lights and of that noble range of pillars, by which the whole building is supported. The pillars terminate towards the east by a sweep, thereby enclosing the Chapel of Edward the Confessor in a kind of semicircle, and excluding all the rest. On the arches of the pillars are galleries of double columns, fifteen feet wide, covering the side aisles, and lighted by a middle range of windows, over which there is an upper range of larger windows: by these and the under range, with the four capital windows, the whole fabric is so admirably lighted, that the spectator is never incommoded by darkness, nor dazzled with glare.

Painted Glass.

ithin the last five years twenty-two windows have been enriched with stained glass: eight in the Lantern or Central Tower; six in the South Clerestory of the Nave; one in the Apse; seven in the North Transept. The object has been to lay the foundation of a general design illustrative of a portion of the “Te Deum.”

The eight windows in the Lantern or Central Tower represent angels, and round the sustaining arches is inscribed,—“To Thee all angels cry aloud, the heavens and all the powers therein; To Thee cherubin and seraphin continually do cry: Holy, holy, holy, Lord God of Sabaoth, heaven and earth are full of the majesty of Thy glory.”

The six windows in the South Clerestory, west of the Transepts represent Prophets, in illustration of that verse in the “Te Deum:”—“The goodly fellowship of the prophets praise Thee.”

It is hoped that this commencement may lead not only to the completion of what has been begun, but also to the enrichment of the corresponding windows on the north side of the Nave, in illustration of the “Noble Army of Martyrs.”

The Clerestory windows eastward of the Transepts offer the means of representing the “Glorious Company of the Apostles.”

In the east window in the Apse, below the Clerestory, are the figures of St. Peter and St. Paul.

This window was enriched to the “Glory of God’s House,” and as a token of respect and affection for the Venerable William H. E. Bentinck, M.A., Archdeacon of Westminster, who, in 1859, completed his fiftieth year as a dignitary of this Collegiate Church.

The next thing observable is the stained glass in the three windows at the east end, containing each two figures. In the left window, the first figure represents our Saviour; the second, the Virgin Mary; the third, Edward the Confessor; the fourth, Henry III.; the fifth, St. Augustine; the sixth, Melitus, the Bishop of London, in the right hand window.

The window of stained glass in Henry V.’s Chantry, was at Dean Ireland’s expense, by Willemont; the arms are those of Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Henry V., Dean Ireland’s, and the Abbacy of Westminster.

I.—Chapel of St. Benedict.

n the Chapel of St. Benedict is an ancient tomb of stone, having formerly a canopy of wood, on which lies the effigy of Archbishop Langham, who, as the Latin epitaph round his tomb sets forth, “was Monk, Prior, and Abbot of this Abbey; afterwards elected Bishop of London; but Ely being then also vacant, he made choice of that see; that he was Primate and Chancellor of England; Priest-Cardinal, afterwards Bishop-Cardinal, of Preneste, and Nuncio from the Pope; and that he died on the Feast of St. Mary Magdalen, in the year 1376, on whose soul God have mercy, and grant him the joys of heaven for the merits of Christ.”

On the east, where stood the altar of St. Benedict, is a fine monument to the memory of Lady Frances, Countess of Hertford. The Latin inscription sets forth, “that she was wife to the noble Earl of Hertford, son to the renowned Prince Edward, Duke of Somerset, Earl of Hertford, Viscount Beauchamp, and Baron Seymour; that she was daughter to the noble Lord William, Baron Howard of Effingham, Knight of the Garter, High Admiral to Queen Mary, and Lord Chamberlain and Privy Seal to Queen Elizabeth, &c.; that, for her many graces, both of mind and body, she was highly favoured by her gracious Sovereign, and dearly loved by her noble Lord, who, in testimony of his inviolate affection, consecrated to her memory this monument. She died in the forty-fourth year of her age, May 14, 1598.”

On the south side is a monument to the memory of Dr. Gabriel Goodman. The Latin inscription intimates, “that he was the fifth Dean of this Church, over which he presided for forty years with much applause; that he founded an hospital, and instituted a school at Ruthin, in Denbighshire, where he was born; that he was a man of regular and devout life, and that he died in 1601, aged seventy-three.”

On the same side is a monument to the memory of George Sprat, second son of Dr. Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, and Dean of Westminster, by his wife Helena, descended from the ancient and honourable family of the Wolseleys, in Staffordshire, who lies interred in the Chapel of St. Nicholas. He died an infant of a year old, in 1683.

In the centre is a monument erected in memory of Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex, by his relict, Lady Ann. The Latin inscription on this monument is to this effect;—“Sacred to the memory of Lionel Lord Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex, who by that discerning prince, King James I., being called to court, was for his excellent parts bountifully rewarded, both with honours and fortune; being made Master of the Requests, and of the Wardrobe, President of the Court of Wards, and Privy Councillor. The new and illustrious, as well as difficult province of Lord Treasurer of England, he filled, which services how indefatigably he underwent, his title of Knight, Baron Cranfield, and, lastly, Earl of Middlesex, with various other honours, abundantly testify. He died the 6th of August, 1645, aged about seventy. He was twice married. By his first wife he had three daughters; Elizabeth, Countess of Mulgrave; Martha, Countess of Monmouth; and Mary, who died unmarried. By the second, who survived him, he had three sons, and two daughters; James, heir to the honours of Earl of Middlesex, Lyonel, and Edward; Frances, Lady Buckhurst; and Susannah, who died an infant.”

Near Bishop Langham’s tomb, is a table monument, inlaid with a brass plate, designed for Dr. William Bill, Dean of Westminster, Master of Eton College, Head of Trinity in Cambridge, and Chief Almoner to Queen Elizabeth, as appears by his inscription. He died July 5, 1561. On a brass plate are some Latin verses, setting forth “that he was a good and learned man, and a friend to those that were so; that he was just and charitable; and that the poor, as well as the three Colleges over which he presided, sustained an irreparable loss by his death.”

Besides those above recited, there lie interred in this Chapel, Catherine, daughter of Dr. Dolben, Bishop of Rochester, Dean of Westminster, and afterwards Archbishop of York; a Countess of Kildare, in Ireland; and Dr. John Spotswood, Lord Archbishop of St. Andrew’s, Primate and Lord Chancellor of Scotland, who died in 1640.

On the left of the gate of entrance to the Chapels, is the ancient monument to Sebert, King of the East Saxons, who first built a church nearly on this site, and died July, 616; also of Athelgoda, his Queen, who died September 13, 615.

It may here be observed, and to some will no doubt be interesting, that as the date of King Sebert is the earliest known respecting the Abbey, George II. was also the last King buried in Westminster, including in all thirteen English Sovereigns whose remains repose within these venerable walls (and fourteen Queens, that is, once reigning sovereigns, or the consorts of kings) embracing a period of more than twelve hundred years. The Kings buried in the Abbey—Sebert, Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., Edward III., Richard II., Henry V., Edward V., Henry VII., Edward VI., James I., Charles II., William III., George II., all of which can of course be ascertained by a careful perusal of this guide book.

Over the tomb of Sebert, enclosed under glass, is an elaborate work (measuring about eleven feet in length, and three feet in height), which appears to have originally formed part of an altar decoration of the fourteenth century; the ground-work is oak; over the joinings, and on the surface of some mouldings, strips of parchment were glued. On this framework, covered with a gesso ground, various ornamental compartments and architectural enrichments are completed in relief. The work is divided into two similar portions; in the centre is a figure which appears to be intended for Christ, holding the globe, and in the act of blessing; an angel with a palm branch is on each side. The single figure on the left is St. Peter; the figure that should correspond on the right, and all the scripture subjects on that side, are gone. In the compartments to the left, portions of three subjects remain; one represents the Adoration of the Kings; another, apparently the Raising of Lazarus; the subject of the third is doubtful, though some figures remain; the fourth is destroyed. The small compartments in the architectural enrichments are filled with variously-coloured pieces of glass inlaid on tinfoil, and have still a brilliant effect. The compartments not occupied by figures were adorned with a deep blue glass resembling lapis lazuli, with gold lines of foliage executed on it. The smaller spaces and mouldings were enriched with cameos and gems; some of which still remain. This interesting work of art lay neglected in a Chapel near the North Transept, till Mr. Blore, with the permission of the Dean and Chapter, had it placed for security in the case in which it is now seen. It is supposed to have originally formed part of the decoration of the high altar. Its date may be fixed at the close of the thirteenth or beginning of the fourteenth century.

Between this Chapel and the next, is a monument of Mosaic work, erected for the children of Henry III. and Edward I. This certainly was once a rich and costly monument; for in the records of the Tower, there is the King’s order for erecting such a one in this place, and for allowing Master Simon de Wells five marks and a half to defray his expenses in bringing from the city a certain brass image to set upon the tomb of his daughter Catherine, and for paying to Simon de Gloucester, the King’s goldsmith, seventy marks, for a silver image for the like purpose.

On the left, before you enter the Chapel of St. Edmund, is a large stone, once plated with brass, under which was interred Sir John Galofre; he was famous in the reign of Richard II., for his wisdom and valour, and was prosecuted by the discontented Lords. He died at Wallingford, in Berkshire, in 1396.

The tombstone, with inscription on a brass plate of Dr. Billson, is seen on the floor, next that of Sir John Galofre. He died in 1616.

II.—Chapel of St. Edmund.

n the left as you enter is a monument sacred to the memory of John of Eltham, second son of Edward II., and so called from Eltham, in Kent, the place of his nativity, where our English Kings had once a palace. His statue is of alabaster, the head encircled in a coronet of large and small leaves, remarkable for its being the first of the kind. His habit is that of an armed Knight. He died in Scotland, in 1334, at the age of nineteen, unmarried, though three different matches had been proposed to him; the last of which, to Mary, daughter of Ferdinand, King of Spain, he accepted, but lived not to consummate it.

At the foot of this is a monument with the following inscription:—“In this Chapel lies interred all that was mortal of the most illustrious and most benevolent John Paul Howard, Earl of Stafford, who in 1738 married Elizabeth, daughter of A. Ewens, of the county of Somerset, Esq. His heart was as truly great and noble as his high descent. Faithful to his God. A lover of his country. A relation to relations. A detester of detraction. A friend to mankind. Naturally generous and compassionate, his liberality and his charity to the poor were without bounds. Being snatched away suddenly by death, which he had long meditated and expected with constancy, he went to a better life the 1st of April, 1762, having lived sixty-one years nine months and six days.” The figures round the inscription are the ancient badges of honour belonging to the Stafford family, who descended by ten different marriages from the royal blood of England and France.—Invented and stained by Chambers.

Next to this is a small table monument, on which lie the figures of William of Windsor, sixth son of Edward III., who died in his infancy; and of Blanch of the Tower, sister to William, who likewise died young, having obtained their surnames from the places of their nativity. About 1350.

Against the wall is a monument of Nicholas Monck, Provost of Eton, Bishop of Hereford, and brother of George Monck, Duke of Albemarle, &c. He died December 11, 1661, aged fifty.—Woodman, sculptor.

On an altar tomb lies the effigy of Lady Frances, Duchess of Suffolk. She was the daughter of the famous Charles Brandon, by Mary, the French Queen, daughter to Henry VII., and became herself Duchess of Suffolk, by marrying Henry Grey, then Marquis of Dorset, but upon her father’s decease created Duke of Suffolk, and afterwards beheaded for being concerned in dethroning Queen Mary. She died in 1558-9.

Against the wall above is a monument to the memory of Mary, Countess of Stafford, and of Henry, Earl of Stafford, her son, who died abroad in 1719, and was buried in this Chapel.

The next, representing a youth in Grecian armour sitting on a Greek altar, to the memory of Francis Holles, by John, Earl of Clare his afflicted father. This brave youth, after returning home from a campaign in Flanders, died August 12, 1622, aged eighteen. His epitaph is thus written:—

“What so thou hast of nature or of arts,
Youth, beauty, strength, or what excelling parts
Of mind and body, letters, arms, and worth,
His eighteen years beyond his years brought forth;
Then stand and read thyself within this glass,
How soon these perish, and thyself may pass:
Man’s life is measured by the work, not days;
Not aged sloth, but active youth, hath praise.”

—N. Stone, sculptor.

Next are two tablets, one to the memory of the Right Honourable the Lady Katherine Knollys, chief Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth, and wife to Sir Francis Knollys, Knt., Treasurer of her Highness’s household. She died January the 15th, 1568. This Lady Knollys and Lord Hunsdon, her brother, were the only children of William Carey, Esq., by Lady Mary, his wife, one of the daughters and heirs of Thomas Bulleyne, Earl of Wiltshire and Ormond, and sister to Anne Bulleyne, Queen of England, wife to Henry VIII., father and mother to Queen Elizabeth. What is farther remarkable, Lady Knollys’ only daughter was mother of the favourite Earl of Essex.

The other to Lady Jane Seymour, daughter of Edward, Duke of Somerset, who died March 19, 1560, aged nineteen.

On an altar sits, in a sleeping posture, the figure of Lady Elizabeth Russel, daughter of Lord John Russel, in alabaster. She pricked her finger with a needle, which is supposed to have caused a lock-jaw, and occasioned her death. On the plinth of the pedestal is—“Dormit, non mortua est”—(She is not dead, but sleepeth). Died 1601.

Lord John Russel, second son of Francis, second Earl of Bedford, and his son Francis, by Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Anthony Cook, Knt., and widow of Sir Thomas Hoby, Knt. He died in 1584. He is represented in a cumbent posture, habited in his coronation robes, with his infant son at his feet. His lady was esteemed the Sappho of her age, being well versed in the learned languages, and an excellent poet; five of the epitaphs on this tomb are of her composition, of which three are in Latin, one in Greek, and the other in English, which is here transcribed as a specimen, the rest being to the same purport:—

“Right noble twice, by virtue and by birth,
Of heaven lov’d, and honour’d on the earth,
His country’s hope, his kindred’s chief delight,
My husband dear, more than this world’s light,
Death hath me reft. But I from death will take
His memory, to whom this tomb I make.
John was his name (ah, was! wretch, must I say?)
Lord Russel once, now my tear-thirsty clay.”

Next is a very ancient monument, representing a Gothic chapel, and in it the figure of a Knight in armour, in a cumbent posture, with his feet resting on a lion’s back. This was erected for Sir Bernard Brocas, of Baurepaire, in the county of Hants, Chamberlain to Ann, Queen of Richard II. But this Princess dying, and Richard falling under the displeasure of his people, who deposed him, Sir Bernard still adhered to his Royal master in his misfortunes, which cost him his life. He was publicly beheaded on Tower Hill, January, 1399, and here buried.

In front of this is a low altar tomb, on which has been, in plated brass, the figure of a Knight in armour, his head reclining upon his helmet, and one of his feet placed upon a leopard, the other on an eagle. By the Latin inscription this Knight was Humphrey Bourgchier, son and heir to John Bourgchier, Lord Berners, who espousing the cause of Edward IV. against the Earl of Warwick, was slain in the battle of Barnet Field, on Easter-day, 1471.

Next is the monument of Sir Richard Pecksall, Knt., Master of the Buckhounds to Queen Elizabeth; first married to Alianer, the daughter of William Paulett, Marquis of Winchester, by whom he had four daughters; and afterwards to Alianer, daughter of John Cotgrave. On the bases of the pillars are Latin verses thus translated:—

“Death can’t disjoin whom Christ hath joined in love;
Life leads to death, and death to life above.
In heaven’s a happier place; frail things despise:
Live well to gain in future life a prize.”

He died 1571.

The next is a most magnificent monument to the memory of Edward Talbot, eighth Earl of Shrewsbury, and his lady, Jane, eldest daughter and co-heiress of Cuthbert, Baron Ogle, whose effigies in their robes lie on a black marble table, supported by a pedestal of alabaster. He died February 8, 1617, in the fifty-seventh year of his age.

In front of this is the gravestone to the memory of Edward, Lord Herbert, Baron of Cherbury, in England, and of Castle-Ireland, in Ireland, who died December 9, 1678, aged forty-six.

On the right is the ancient monument of William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, lying in a cumbent posture on a chest of wainscot, placed upon a tomb of freestone; the figure is wood, covered originally with copper gilt, as was the chest on which it lies. In the year 1296, he was slain at Bayonne treacherously. His body was afterwards brought to England, and honourably buried in this Chapel, and an indulgence of one hundred days granted to all devout people who should offer up prayers for his soul.

On the floor is a tomb to Mary, Countess of Stafford, wife to the unfortunate Viscount Stafford, beheaded in the reign of Charles II., on Tower Hill, Dec. 29, 1680. She was lineally descended from the Barons and Earls of Stafford, and was daughter and heiress to the noble house of Buckingham. She died Jan. 1693.

The next is a tomb on which is a lady in a widow’s dress, with a barb and veil, cut in brass, round which is an inscription in old French, importing that Alianer de Bohun, daughter and heiress of Sir Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hertford, Essex, and Northampton, and wife to the mighty and noble Prince of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, Earl of Essex and Buckingham, son of Edward III., lies interred here. This lady, who was the greatest heiress in England, was deprived of her husband by the cruelty of his nephew, Richard II., who, jealous of his popularity, most treacherously betrayed him by a show of friendship; for coming to visit him at Plashy, a pleasant seat of his in Essex, and staying supper, in duty he thought to attend his Majesty to town; but at Stratford was suddenly surrounded by an ambush of armed men, who privately hurried him on board a ship, and carried him to Calais, where, by the King’s order, he was stifled between feather beds in 1397. After this melancholy circumstance, his lady spent the rest of her days in the nunnery at Barking, and died October 3, 1399; from whence her remains were brought and here interred.

There is also an Archbishop buried here, as appears by a very antique figure in a mass habit, engraven on a brass plate, and placed on a flat stone in the pavement, over the remains of Robert de Waldeby, who, as appears by the inscription, was first an Augustine monk, and attended Edward the Black Prince into France, where, being young, he prosecuted his studies, and made a surprising progress in natural and moral philosophy, physic, the languages, and in the canon law; and, being likewise an elegant preacher and sound divine, was made Divinity Professor in the University of Toulouse, where he continued till called by Richard II. to the Bishopric of Man; from whence he was removed to the Archbishopric of Dublin; but not liking that country, upon the first vacancy he was recalled, and advanced to the see of Chichester, and afterwards to the Archbishopric of York. Such is the history of this great man, who died May 29, 1397, as gathered from an inscription formerly very legible, but now almost obliterated.

At the foot of Waldeby is a blue marble slab, which covers the remains of Dr. Henry Ferne, inlaid with five shields in brass, surrounded with an inscription. He was Chaplain Extraordinary to Charles I.; by Charles II. made Bishop of Chester, which he lived to enjoy about five weeks, dying March 16, 1661.

Also a black marble slab which covers the remains of Edward George Earle Lytton Bulwer Lytton. Born 25th May, 1803; died 18th January, 1873. 1831-1841, Member of Parliament for St. Ives and for Lincoln; 1838, Baronet of the United Kingdom; 1852-1856, Knight of the Shire of the County of Hertford; 1858, one of her Majesty’s Principal Secretaries of State, Knight Grand Cross of St. Michael and George; 1866, Baron Lytton of Knebworth. Laborious and distinguished in all fields of intellectual activity, indefatigable and ardent in the cultivation and love of letters. His genius as an author was displayed in the most varied forms, which have connected indissolubly with every department of the literature of his time the name of Edward Bulwer Lytton.

In this Chapel lies interred Abbot Crokesley, who died July 18, 1258.

On the right, on leaving this Chapel, is a fine bust of Richard Tufton, third son of Sir John Tufton, Bart., and brother of Nicholas E. Thanet. He died October 4, 1631.

III.—Chapel of St. Nicholas.

n the left, as you enter this Chapel, is a monument erected for Lady Cecil, a Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth, and daughter of Lord Cobham, who having married Sir Robert Cecil, son of William Lord Burleigh, Treasurer of England, died in childbed two years after, viz. in 1591.

Next is a monument on which a long inscription in English is fairly written, setting forth the descent and marriage of Lady Jane Clifford, youngest daughter of the Duke of Somerset, and wife of Charles, Lord Clifford and Dungarvon, who died Nov. 23, 1679, aged forty-two.

On a small tablet is this inscription, with the motto—“Esperance de Dieu. Isabella Susannah, wife of Algernon Percy, Earl of Beverley, died Jan. 24, 1812, aged sixty-one.”

On a gravestone in front of this monument, engraved on brass, is the figure of Sir Humphrey Stanley, knighted by Henry VII., for his gallant behaviour under his cousin, Lord Stanley, at the battle of Bosworth Field. He died March 22, 1505.

Near this is the monument of Ann, Duchess of Somerset, wife of Edward, Duke of Somerset, brother of Henry VIII.’s third wife, Queen Jane Seymour, and uncle to Edward VI., and sometime Regent during his minority, but afterwards disgraced; accused of treasonable and felonious practices against the King and Council, tried by his Peers, acquitted of treason, but condemned of felony in levying armed men contrary to law, for which crime he was sentenced to be hanged; but, in respect to his quality, was beheaded on Tower Hill, Jan. 22, 1551. She died April 16, 1587, at Hanworth, aged ninety.

On the right, Sir George and Lady Elizabeth Fane, who are represented kneeling on each side a desk. She was the daughter of Robert, Baron Spencer, of Wormleighton, and wife of Sir George Fane, of Buston, in Kent, remarkable, says her inscription, for her ancient descent, but more for her own virtues. She died in 1618, aged twenty-eight.

Beneath this is an ancient monument placed over Nicholas, Baron Carew, and the Lady Margaret, his wife, daughter of Lord John Dinham, and, it is thought, mother of Sir Nicholas Carew, beheaded in Henry VIII.’s time, for holding a correspondence with Cardinal de la Pole. He died December 6, 1470, she December 13, the same year.

In the front of this is a pyramid erected to the memory of Nicholas Bagenall, a child of two months old, overlaid by his nurse, the 7th of March, 1688.

Next to this is one of the most magnificent monuments in the Abbey, erected by the great Lord Burleigh to the memory of Mildred, his wife, and their daughter Lady Ann, Countess of Oxford. On this tomb is a Latin inscription, explaining the figures, and setting forth their respective virtues and accomplishments, particularly those of Lady Burleigh, who, says the inscription, “was well versed in the sacred writers, and those chiefly of the Greeks, as Basil the Great, Chrysostom, Gregory, Nazianzen, &c.” She gave a scholarship to St. John’s College, in Oxford, legacies to the poor of Romford, where she was born, and to those of Cheshunt, where she lived, and left money at both places to be distributed every year to poor tradesmen. She died, after being forty years married, April 4, 1589, aged sixty-three. Her daughter Ann married, at fifteen, Edward Vere, Earl of Oxford, and died June 5, 1588, seventeen years after, leaving three daughters.

Next to this is a monument to the memory of William de Dudley, alias Sutton, son of John, Lord Dudley; he was Archdeacon of Middlesex, Dean of Windsor, and, in 1476, Lord Bishop of Durham. On the tomb was inlaid a brass figure, in episcopal vestments. He died in 1483.

The effigy of Lady St. John lies in this recess. She was daughter of Sir William Dormer, and widow of John, Lord St. John, of Bletsoe. She died on the 23rd of March, 1614.

Near this is a pyramid to the memory of Anna Sophia Harley, a child of a year old, daughter of the Hon. Christopher Harley, Ambassador from the French King, whose heart, as appears by the inscription, he caused to be enclosed in a cup, and placed upon the top of the pyramid. She died in 1601.

The next is a monument to the memory of Lady Winifred, married first to Sir Richard Sackville, Knt., and afterwards to John Paulet, Marquis of Winchester. The Latin epitaph imports, that she was descended of illustrious parents, and married first a gentleman of an ancient house, whose ancestors were renowned before the Conqueror’s time; that her second husband was of noble blood; and that being severed from both by death, her soul will rejoice in Christ for ever. She died in 1586.

Above is an ancient monument to the memory of Lady Ross, daughter of Edward, Earl of Rutland. She died April 11, 1591.

Next to this is a monument to the memory of the late Duchess of Northumberland. The figures on each side are Faith and Hope; and those above are two weeping Genii over her urn, mourning for her loss. The inscription, after reciting her Grace’s illustrious descent and titles, concludes with her character, who, “having lived long an ornament of courts, an honour to her country, a pattern to the great, a protectress to the poor, ever distinguished for the most tender affection for her family and friends, she died December 5, 1776, aged sixty, universally beloved, revered, and lamented. The Duke of Northumberland, inconsolable for the loss of the best of wives, hath erected this monument to her beloved memory.”—Read, sculptor.

Against the screen is a Gothic monument with the effigy of a lady in robes, very antique. The lady, by the inscription, appears to be Philippa, second daughter and co-heiress of John, Lord Mohun, of Dunstar; married first to Sir Walter Fitzwalter, Knt., secondly to Sir John Galofre, Knt., and lastly to Edward Plantagenet, Duke of York, who was slain in the battle of Agincourt, 25th of October, 1415. She died in 1431, without issue.

In the middle of the Chapel is a fine monument to the memory of Sir George Villiers, who died Jan. 4, 1605, and his lady, Mary Beaumont, created Countess of Buckingham in 1618. She died on April 19, 1632, aged sixty-two, whose son, by the favour of James I., was advanced to the dignity of the Duke of Buckingham.—Stone, sculptor.

Katharine Valois, Queen of Henry V., who died at Bermondsey Abbey, Southwark, in January, 1437, was buried in the Chapel of our Lady at the east end of the Abbey, where she remained till her grandson, Henry VII., built his chapel, when her remains were placed near to her husband in a chest, and finally deposited under Sir George Villiers’ tomb in 1776.

In this Chapel lies interred, Thomas Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, and Dean of Westminster, who died May 20, 1713. Also his son, Thomas Sprat, Archdeacon of Rochester, who died May 10, 1720, aged forty-one. Also many other persons of distinction, of the Percy, Seymour, and Burleigh families, which we have not space to insert.

At the door of this Chapel was buried that great and learned antiquary, Sir Henry Spelman, who died in 1641.

On leaving this Chapel, opposite to you, there is affixed to the corner of Henry V.’s Chantry, a bust with Latin inscription, to the memory of Sir Robert Aiton, Knt., who, in the reign of James I., was in great reputation for his writings, especially in poetry. He died in 1638.

On the right, against the screen of the Chapel of St. Nicholas, is a monument erected to the memory of Sir Thomas Ingram, Knt., Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, and Privy Councillor to Charles II. He died February 13, 1671.

CENTRE, HENRY VII’S CHAPEL.

IV.—Chapel of Henry the Seventh.

he ascent to this Chapel is from the east end of the Abbey, by steps of grey marble, under a stately portico, which leads to the gates opening to the body, or nave of the Chapel. Before you enter you may observe a door on each hand, opening into the side aisles, for it is composed of a nave and side aisles, every way answering to the plan of a cathedral. The gates by which you enter the nave are all well worth your observation; they are of brass, most curiously wrought, in the manner of frame work, and the panels being filled with the portcullis and crown; three fleur-de-lis; falcon and fetterlock; the union of the roses of York and Lancaster entwined in a crown; the thistle and crown; the initial R. H. and a crown, and the three lions of England. Being entered, your eye will naturally be directed to the lofty ceiling, which is in stone, wrought with such astonishing variety of figures, as no description can reach. The stalls are of brown wainscot, with Gothic canopies, most beautifully carved, as are the seats, with strange devices, which nothing on wood is now equal to. The pavement is of black and white marble, done at the charge of Dr. Killigrew, once Prebendary of this Abbey, as appears by two inscriptions, one on a plate of brass, infixed in the rise towards the founder’s tomb, the other cut in the pavement. The east view from the entrance presents you with the brass chapel and tomb of the founder; and round it, where the east end forms a semicircle, are the Chapels of the Dukes of Buckingham and Richmond. The walls of the nave and aisles are wrought in the most curious figures imaginable, and contain one hundred and twenty large statues of Patriarchs, Saints, Martyrs, and Confessors, placed in niches, under which are angels, supporting imperial crowns, all of them esteemed so curious, that the best masters have travelled from abroad to copy them. The windows, which are fourteen in the upper, and nineteen in the lower range, including the side aisles and portico, were formerly of painted or diapered glass, having in every pane a white rose, the badge of Lancaster, or an

, the initial letter of the founder’s name, and portcullises, the badge of the Beauforts crowned, of which a few only are now remaining. In the upper window, east end, Henry VII. is represented in stained glass. The ceiling is of stone, and persons can walk between the roof and ceiling, where there is a spacious room, lighted by Gothic openings through the wall.

General Admeasurement of the Interior.

Entrance Porch or Vestibule.

SOUTH AISLE.

Here is a handsome monument, on which lies a lady finely robed, to Lady Margaret Douglas, daughter of Margaret, Queen of Scots, by the Earl of Angus. This lady, as the English inscription says, had to her great-grandfather, Edward IV.; to her grandfather, Henry VII.; to her uncle, Henry VIII.; to her cousin-german, Edward VI.; to her brother, James V. of Scotland; to her son, Henry I. of Scotland; to her grandson, James VI.; having to her great-grandmother and grandmother, two Queens, both named Elizabeth; to her mother, Margaret, Queen of Scots; to her aunt, Mary, the French Queen; to her cousins-german, Mary and Elizabeth, Queens of England; to her niece and daughter-in-law, Mary, Queen of Scots. This lady, who was very beautiful, was privately married in 1537, to Thomas Howard, son of the Duke of Norfolk, upon which account both of them were committed to the Tower by Henry VIII., her uncle, for affiancing without his consent, and he died in prison; but this Margaret being released, was soon after married to Matthew, Earl of Lennox, by whom she had the handsome Lord Darnley, father of James I., whose effigy is foremost on the tomb, in a kneeling posture. There are seven children besides round the tomb of Margaret, of whom only three are mentioned in history, the rest dying young. This great lady died March 10, 1577.

Next is the magnificent monument to Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, erected by her son, James I., soon after his accession to the English throne. This princess was born Dec. 7, 1542. She was daughter and heiress of James V. of Scotland, who, dying when she was only a week old, succeeded to the crown. Married first, April 28, 1558, at fifteen years of age, Francis, Dauphin of France; secondly, Henry, Lord Darnley, July 29, 1565; and thirdly, Bothwell. Her subjects becoming offended, she was compelled to resign her crown to her infant son, James, by Lord Darnley; she eventually sought refuge in England, but Queen Elizabeth committed her as prisoner to the Earl of Shrewsbury at his houses of Hardwicke and Chatsworth, in Derbyshire, where she remained seventeen years a captive. She was thence transferred to the custody of Sir Amias Paulet, and shortly afterwards tried and condemned for engaging in a treasonable correspondence with the Queen’s enemies. She was beheaded in the hall of Fotheringay Castle, in Northamptonshire, February 8, 1587. Her remains were first buried in Peterborough Cathedral; but James had her body privately removed to this Church, in Oct., 1612, under the superintendence of Neile, then Dean of Westminster, and buried in a vault beneath this monument.—Stone, sculptor.

Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., born Feb. 19, 1593, and after giving great promise of a blessing to his country, died of a fever at St. James’s palace, Nov. 6, 1612, in the 19th year of his age, and was buried by the side of his grandmother.

In the same tomb are the remains of Arabella Stewart, four children of Charles I.: Elizabeth of Bohemia, daughter of James I.; Prince Rupert her son; Ann Hyde, first wife of James II., and ten of his infant children; William, Duke of Gloucester, son of Ann, and seventeen of her infant children.

The next is the monument of Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., by Edmund Tudor, son of Owen ap Tudor, who married the widow of Henry V. of England, and daughter of Charles VI. of France. This lady was afterwards married to Humphrey Stafford, a younger son of Humphrey, Duke of Buckingham, and lastly, to Thomas Lord Stanley, Earl of Derby; but by the two last had no children. The inscription mentions the charities of this excellent Princess; such as giving a salary to two monks of Westminster; founding a grammar-school at Wimbourne, and two colleges, one to Christ, the other to St. John his disciple, at Cambridge. Of this lady’s bounty, forty poor women partake every Saturday afternoon, in the College Hall; each of them has twopence, one pound and a half of beef, and a fourpenny loaf of bread. She died in July, 1509, in the reign of her grandson, Henry VIII.—Torrigiano, sculptor.

Opposite is a figure to the memory of Lady Walpole, with the following inscription:—“To the memory of Catherine, Lady Walpole, eldest daughter of John Shorter, Esq., of Bybrook, in Kent, and first wife of Sir Robert Walpole, afterwards Earl of Orford, Horace, her youngest son, consecrated this monument. She had beauty and wit, without vice or vanity, and cultivated the arts without affectation: she was devout, though without bigotry to any sect; and was without prejudice to any party, though the wife of a minister, whose power she esteemed but when she could employ it to benefit the miserable, or to reward the meritorious; she loved a private life, though born to shine in public: and was an ornament to Courts, untainted by them. She died August the 20th, 1737.”—Valory, sculptor.

At the end, a monument to the memories of George Monck, and Christopher, his son, both Dukes of Albemarle; also, Elizabeth, Duchess Dowager of Albemarle and Montague, relict of Christopher. George Monck, Duke of Albemarle, was younger son of Sir Thomas Monck, born at Potheridge, Devon, December 6, 1608. He entered the army as a volunteer in 1625, under Sir Richard Grenville. At the death of Cromwell he took an active part in the restoration of Charles II., for which he was loaded with honours, and died in the esteem of his sovereign, in 1670, in the sixty-second year of his age.—Scheemakers, sculptor.

At this end is the Royal Vault, as it is called, in which are deposited the remains of Charles II., who died February 2, 1685; William III., who died March 8, 1702, and Queen Mary, his consort, who died December 28, 1694; Queen Anne, died August 1, 1714; and Prince George, who died Oct. 28, 1708.

THE NAVE.

From this aisle you enter the nave of the Chapel, the stone ceiling of which is curious, and the gates are brass. Here were installed, with great ceremony, the Knights of the most Honourable Order of the Bath, which order was revived in the reign of George I., in 1725. In their stalls are placed brass plates of their arms, &c., and over them hang their banners, swords, and helmets. Under the stalls are seats for the esquires; each Knight has three, whose arms are engraven on brass plates. The small shelving stool which the seats of the stalls form when turned up is called a miserere. On these the monks and canons of ancient times, with the assistance of their elbows on the upper part of the stalls, half supported themselves during certain parts of their long offices, not to be obliged always to stand or kneel. It is so contrived, that if the body became supine by sleep, it naturally fell down, and the person who rested upon it was thrown forward on the middle of the choir.

In the centre, between the Knights’ stalls, is the Royal Vault, where their Majesties George II. and Queen Caroline are buried; the Prince and Princess of Wales, two Dukes of Cumberland, the Duke of York, Prince Frederick William, the Princesses Amelia, Caroline, Elizabeth, Louisa, Anne; and the two infant Princes, Alfred and Octavius, children of George III., were removed in January, 1820, to the new royal vault at Windsor.

What is chiefly to be admired here, as well for antiquity as fine workmanship, is the magnificent tomb of Henry VII. and Elizabeth his Queen, the last of the house of York who wore the English crown. This tomb stands in the body of the Chapel, enclosed in a curious chantry of cast brass, most admirably designed and executed, and ornamented with statues, of which those only of St. George, St. James, St. Bartholomew, and St. Edward, are now remaining. Within it are the effigies of the Royal pair, in their robes of state, lying close to each other, on a tomb of black marble, the head whereof is supported by a red dragon, the ensign of Cadwallader, the last King of the Britons, from whom Henry VII. was fond of tracing his descent, and the foot by an angel. There are likewise other devices alluding to his family and alliances; such as portcullises, signifying his relation to the Beauforts by his mother’s side; roses twisted and crowned, in memory of the union of the two Royal Houses of York and Lancaster. There are six compartments, three on the north, and as many on the south side of its base. The first compartment on the south side contains the figures of the Virgin Mary with our Lord in her arms, and that of the Archangel St. Michael. The figures in the scales, though now mutilated, were meant for personal representations of moral good and evil; the Saint is weighing them in his balance; the good preponderates; but the Devil, who is represented by the figure under his feet, is reaching with one of his clawed feet at the scale which contains the figure of Evil, in order, by the addition of his own force, to render that the heaviest. The first figure in the second compartment is doubtless intended for St. John the Baptist, he having a book in his left hand, with an Agnus Dei impressed upon it. The other is a figure of St. John the Evangelist, and the figure of the eagle. The first figure of the third compartment is intended for St. George; the other figure, from the pig’s head visible near him, the frequent symbol by which he is denoted, is intended for St. Anthony of Vienna. The first figure in the fourth compartment, north side, is meant for Mary Magdalen, supposing her to hold the box of ointment. The other figure represents St. Barbara, who was the daughter of a Pagan, and dwelt with her father in a certain tower. To this tower adjoined a garden, in which the father determined to build a bath, with the necessary accommodation of rooms, and therein to make windows to the number of two only. Being about to undertake a journey, he left his instructions with the artificers, which his daughter presumed to vary, by directing them instead of two to make three. Upon her father’s return, he inquired into the reason of this deviation from his orders; and being told that in allusion to three persons of the Holy Trinity his daughter had directed it, he found that she was become a convert to Christianity; and being exasperated thereat, stimulated the Emperor to a persecution of the Christians, in which she became a martyr to the faith. The first figure in the fifth compartment is intended for St. Christopher, bearing our Saviour upon his shoulder. The other figure is thought to be St. Anne. In the sixth and last compartment, the first figure is intended for King Edward the Confessor; the other figure is a Benedictine Monk. Henry VII. died April 21st, 1509, and his Queen, February 11th, 1502.—The work of Torrigiano.

Edward VI., grandson of Henry VII., who died July 6th, 1553, in the sixteenth year of his age, and seventh of his reign. On the holy table is the following inscription in Latin:—“In place of the ancient altar, destroyed in the civil wars, to the honour of God and in pious memory of Edward VI., who is buried beneath, this holy table, in a gentler age, was placed by Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, D.D., Dean of Westminster. 1870.”

On the south side of the tomb of Henry VII., in a small chapel, is a monument to Lewis Stuart, Duke of Richmond, and Frances, his wife. The brass effigies are represented as lying on a marble table, under a canopy of brass, curiously wrought, and supported by the figures of Faith, Hope, Charity, and Prudence. On the top is a fine figure of Fame, taking her flight, and resting only on her toe. This illustrious nobleman was son to Esme Stuart, Duke of Lennox, and grandson of James, nephew of James I., to whom he was First Gentleman of the Bedchamber and Privy Councillor, a Knight of the Garter, and Ambassador to France on behalf of Scotland. He died Feb. 16, 1623. His lady was daughter of Thomas, Lord Howard of Bindon, son of the Duke of Norfolk, by Elizabeth, daughter of the Duke of Buckingham. She died Oct. 8, 1639.—You will likewise see here a pyramid, supporting a small urn, in which is contained the heart of Esme Stuart, son of the Duke of Richmond and Lennox, by Lady Mary, daughter of the Duke of Buckingham. He died in France, August 15, 1661, aged eleven years, and was succeeded in all his titles by Charles, Earl of Lichfield, his cousin-german, who died December 12, 1672, and is here interred.

This monument was originally of great splendour, hardly surpassed by any in the Abbey, being wholly composed of jet black marble and bronze gilt. The combined effects of neglect, corrosion, and spoliation had at last rendered it an unsightly wreck, when, in 1874, its almost complete restoration was undertaken by the direction and at the sole cost of the Earl of Darnley, who is a lineal descendant in the female line of the ancient Stuart family.

A monument to the Duke de Montpensier, who is represented with ducal coronet and robes, and his remains are beneath. On the front of this tomb is the following inscription:—“The most illustrious and Serene Prince, Anthony Philip, Duke of Montpensier, descended from the Kings of France, second son of the Duke of Orleans, from his earliest youth bred to arms, and even in chains unsubdued; of an erect mind in adversity, and in prosperity not elated; a constant patron of the liberal arts, polite, pleasant, and courteous to all, nor ever wanting in the duties of brother, neighbour, friend, or in the love of his country. After experiencing the vicissitudes of fortune, he was received with great hospitality by the English nation, and at length rests in this asylum for kings. Born July 3, 1775. Died May 18, 1807, aged thirty-one. Louis Philip, Duke of Orleans, erects this monument in memory of the best of brothers.”—Sir Richard Westmacott, sculptor.

The next is an excellent monument to the memory of John Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, where, on an altar, lies his Grace’s effigy, in a Roman habit, with his Duchess, Catherine, natural daughter of the Duke of York, afterwards James II., sitting at his feet weeping. In the reign of Charles II. as the inscription sets forth, he was General of the Dutch troop of horse, Governor of Kingston Castle upon Hull, and First Gentleman of the Bedchamber; in that of James II., Lord Chamberlain; and in that of Queen Anne, Lord Privy Seal, and President of the Council. He was in his youth an excellent poet, and, in his more advanced years, a fine writer. His love of poetry is conspicuous, by the esteem and regard he had for the two great masters of it, who flourished in his own time, Dryden and Pope, to the first of whom he extended his friendship, even after death, by erecting a monument to his memory. To the latter he did honour, by writing a poem in his praise. Over his Grace’s effigy are inscribed in Latin, sentences to the following import:—“I lived doubtful, not dissolute—I die unresolved, not unresigned. Ignorance and error are incident to human nature. I trust in an almighty and all good God. O! thou Being of Beings, have compassion on me;” and underneath it.—“for my King often, for my Country ever.” His Grace died in the seventy-fourth year of his age, Feb. 24, 1720, leaving the publication of his works to the care of Mr. Pope.—Scheemakers, sculptor.

The remains of James I. are in the tomb of Henry VII. This Prince reigned over Scotland 59 years, and over England 22 years. He was son to Lord Darnley, by Mary Queen of Scots. He died March 16, 1625, aged 61, after a long and peaceable reign. The remains of his Queen, Ann of Denmark, are in the tomb in front of the monument of Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham. She died March 2, 1619.

On the north side of Henry the Seventh’s Chantry, in a chapel, is a very antique monument, decorated with several emblematical figures in brass, gilt, the principal of which is Neptune, in a pensive posture, with his trident reversed, and Mars with his head crouched. These support the tomb on which lie the effigies of George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, and his Duchess, the great favourite of James I. and Charles I., who fell a sacrifice to national resentment, and perished by the hands of Felton, August 23, 1628, who had no other motive of action but the clamours of the people. Catherine, his Duchess, was interred in the same vault, April 8, 1643.

Cromwell, four of his family, and six officers were buried in the vault at the end of this chapel. Their remains were removed at the Restoration.

The following are also interred in this portion of the Chapel:—John Campbell, Duke of Argyle and Greenwich, 1743. Edward VI., Elizabeth Claypole, second daughter of Oliver Cromwell, 1658.

NORTH AISLE.

From hence you pass to the North Aisle, by a door on the right hand, where is a monument to the memory of Charles Mountague, the first of this family that bore the title of Lord Halifax, son of George Mountague, of Horton. In the reigns of William III. and George I. he was placed at the head of the Treasury, where, undertaking the reformation of the coin, which in those days was most infamously clipped, to the great loss of the public, he restored it to its proper value. For these and other public services, he was first created Baron, and then Earl of Halifax, and died May 19, 1715.

In front of this monument was buried Joseph Addison; to mark the spot a slab of white marble, inlaid with solid brass letters and devices, has recently been placed by the Earl of Ellesmere. The very appropriate epitaph was the effusion of Addison’s friend and contemporary, Thomas Tickle:—

ADDISON.
“Ne’er to these chambers, where the mighty rest,
Since their foundation, came a nobler guest;
Nor e’er was to the bowers of bliss conveyed
A fairer spirit, or more welcome shade.
Oh, gone for ever! take this long adieu,
And sleep in peace, next thy lov’d Mountague.”
Egerton, Earl of Ellesmere, Born 1672, Died 1719.
P.C. 1849. Poole, mason.

Also one to the memory of Sir George Saville, created by Charles I. Baron of Eland, and Viscount Halifax, afterwards Earl, and lastly Marquis of Halifax. He was Lord Keeper of the Privy Seal for some time in the reigns of Charles II., James II., and William III.; and, at the beginning of the reign of James II., he was, for a few months, Lord President of the Council. He died April 5, 1695.

Here is the lofty and magnificent monument of Queen Elizabeth, erected to her memory by James I., her successor. The inscription speaks her character, high descent, and the memorable acts of her glorious reign:—“That she was the mother of her country, and the patroness of religion and learning; that she was herself skilled in many languages; adorned with every excellence of mind and person, and endowed with princely virtues beyond her sex; that in her reign, religion was restored to its primitive purity; peace was established; money restored to its just value; domestic insurrections quelled; France delivered from intestine troubles; the Netherlands supported; the Spanish Armada defeated; Ireland, almost lost by the secret contrivances of Spain, recovered; the revenues of both Universities improved, by a law of provisions, and, in short, all England enriched; that she was a most prudent Governess, forty-five years a virtuous and triumphant Queen, truly religious, and blessed in all her great affairs; and that after a calm and resigned death, in the seventieth year of her age, she left the mortal part to be deposited in this Church, which she established upon a new footing. She died March 24, 1602, aged seventy.” Queen Mary, whose reign preceded that of Queen Elizabeth, was interred here likewise. She died Nov. 17, 1558.—Stone, sculptor.

At the end of this Aisle is a small tomb over which is a figure of a child, erected to the memory of Mary, third daughter of James I., born at Greenwich in 1605; and soon afterwards committed to the care of Lady Knevet, in whose house at Stainwell she died, December 19, 1607, at two years old.

And a child in a cradle, erected to the memory of Sophia, fourth daughter of the same King, born at Greenwich in 1606, and died in three days.

Against the end wall is an altar, raised by Charles II. to the memory of Edward V. and his brother, who, by their treacherous uncle, Richard III., were murdered in the Tower. The inscription, which is in Latin, gives a particular account of their sad catastrophe, and is in English thus:—“Here lie the relics of Edward V., King of England, and Richard, Duke of York, who, being confined in the Tower, and there stifled with pillows, were privately and meanly buried, by order of their perfidious uncle, Richard, the usurper. Their bones, long inquired after and wished for, after laying 191 years in the rubbish of the stairs (i.e., those lately leading to the Chapel of the White Tower), were, on the 17th of July, 1674, by undoubted proofs, discovered, being buried deep in that place. Charles II., pitying their unhappy fate, ordered these unfortunate Princes to be laid among the relics of their predecessors, in the year 1678, and the thirtieth of his reign.” It is remarkable, that Edward was born November 4, 1471, in the sanctuary belonging to this Church, whither his mother took refuge during the contest between the houses of York and Lancaster; at eleven years of age, upon the death of his father, 1483, he was proclaimed King; and on the 23rd of June, in the same year, was murdered in the manner already related. Richard, his brother, was born May 28, 1474, and married, while a child, to Ann Mowbray, heiress of Norfolk.

In front of Queen Elizabeth’s tomb are the bodies of George Monck, Duke of Albemarle, 1670. Edward, Earl of Sandwich, 1672.

V.—Chapel of St. Paul.

n your left hand is a monument to the memory of Sir Henry Belasyse, Knt., Lieutenant-General, some time Governor of Galway in Ireland, and afterwards of Berwick-on-Tweed, in the reign of William III. He died December 16, 1717, aged sixty-nine. Bridget, wife of his only son, W. Belasyse, Esq., died July 28, 1735, aged twenty.—Scheemakers, sculptor.

Next this, one—“To the memory of Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Macleod, who fell at the siege of Badajos, aged twenty-six years. This monument is erected by his brother officers. In Lieutenant-Colonel Macleod, of the forty-third Regiment, who was killed in the breach, his Majesty has sustained the loss of an officer who was an ornament to his profession, and was capable of rendering the most important services to his country.” Vide Marquis Wellington’s Dispatch, 8th April, 1812.—Nollekens, sculptor.

Sir John Puckering, Knt., and his Lady, remarkable, as his inscription sets forth, for his knowledge in the laws, as well as piety, wisdom, and many other virtues. He was Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England four years, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, in which office he died, April 30, 1596. His epitaph, in Latin, over his effigy, is thus translated:—

“The public cares and laws engaged my breast;
To live was toilsome, but to die is rest.
Wealth, maces, guards, crowns, titles, things that fade,
The prey of time and sable death are made.
VIRTUE INSPIRES MEN.
His wife this statue rears to her loved spouse,
The test of constancy and marriage vows.”
“I trust I shall see the Lord in the land of the living.”

Sir James Fullerton and his Lady, with an epitaph:—“Here lie the remains of Sir James Fullerton, Knight, First Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles the First (Prince and King), a generous rewarder of all virtue, a severe reprover of all vice, a professed renouncer of all vanity. He was a firm pillar to the Commonwealth, a faithful patron to the Catholic Church, a fair pattern to the British Court. He lived to the welfare of his country, to the honour of his Prince, to the glory of his God. He died fuller of faith than of fear, fuller of consolation than of pains, fuller of honour than of days.”

In the middle of this Chapel is a table monument, on which lie the effigies of Sir Giles Daubeny, created Lord Daubeny in the first year of the reign of Henry VII., and Dame Elizabeth, his wife. He seems to have been a man of great authority in the reign of Henry VII., as he was Lord Lieutenant of Calais, in France, Lord Chamberlain to his Majesty, Knight of the Most noble Order of the Garter, and father of Henry Lord Daubeny, the first and last Earl of Bridgewater of that surname, by Elizabeth, of the ancient family of the Arundels, in Cornwall. He died May 22, 1507, and his lady in 1500.

James Watt: he is represented with compasses forming designs, seated on an oblong pedestal. The inscription as follows:—“Not to perpetuate a name, which must endure while the peaceful arts flourish, but to show that mankind have learned to honour those who best deserve their gratitude, the king, his ministers, and many of the nobles and commoners of the realm, raised this monument to James Watt, who, directing the force of an original genius, early exercised in philosophical research, to the improvement of the steam-engine, enlarged the resources of his country, increased the power of man, and rose to an eminent place among the most illustrious followers of science, and the real benefactors of the world. Born at Greenock, 1736, died at Heathfield, in Staffordshire, 1819.”—Chantrey, sculptor.

Sir Thomas Bromley, Knight, Privy Councillor to Queen Elizabeth, and eight years Chancellor, in which office he died, April 12, 1587, to the grief of all good men. The eight children depicted on this tomb, were all by his Lady, Elizabeth, of the family of Fortescue.

Sir Dudley Carleton, afterwards made Viscount Dorchester, for his eminent services to Charles I. and his father, both abroad and at home. He was a person versed in the languages, customs, and laws of most of the European nations, and was entrusted both by James I. and his successors, with the most important foreign negotiations. After the death of James I., he was sent to Holland, and was the last deputy who voted in the Assembly of the States, which great privilege the crown of England possessed from the beginning of Queen Elizabeth’s reign to this period. He died Feb. 15, 1631, aged fifty-seven.

Frances, Countess of Essex. This great lady was the wife of Thomas Ratcliffe, Earl of Sussex, Lord Deputy of Ireland, and Knight of the Garter, &c., and daughter of Sir William Sidney, of Pensehurst, Knight. By her last will, having outlived her husband, she instituted a divinity lecture to be read in this Collegiate Church, gave 5,000l. towards the building of a new College in Cambridge, now called Sidney Sussex College; and left a sufficient yearly revenue for the maintenance of one master ten fellows, and twenty scholars, either in the said new college, or else in Clare Hall. She died April 15, 1589, aged fifty-eight.

Next to this is a monument of black marble, very remarkably different from every other in the Abbey. On the top of it is a circular frame of gilt brass, enclosing the bust of Ann, Lady Cottington, wife of Francis, Lord Cottington, Baron of Hanworth, so created by Charles I. She was daughter of Sir William Meredith, of Denbighshire, by Jane, his wife, of the family of the Palmers, in Kent, and died February 22, 1633, in the thirty-third year of her age, having had four daughters and a son, all of whom died before their father, who, on a table monument beneath, lies in effigy, resting on his left arm; and over a satyr’s head is this inscription in English: “Here lies Francis, Lord Cottington, of Hanworth, who, in the reign of Charles I., was Chancellor of his Majesty’s Exchequer, Master of the Court of Wards, Constable of the Tower, Lord High Treasurer of England, and one of the Privy Council. He was twice Ambassador in Spain, once for the said King, and a second time for Charles II., now reigning, to both of whom he most signally showed his allegiance and fidelity, during the unhappy civil broils of those times; and for his faithful adherence to the Crown (the Usurper prevailing) was forced to fly his country; and, during his exile, died at Valladolid, in Spain, June 19, 1652, in the seventy-fourth year of his age, whence his body was brought, and here interred, by Charles Cottington, Esq., his nephew and heir, in 1679.”

The next is a very old Gothic monument, erected to the memory of Lewis Robert, or Robsart, a foreigner, but standard bearer to Henry V., a Knight of the Bath, and afterwards of the Garter, and at length created Lord Bourchier. His wife was Elizabeth, daughter of St. Bartholomew Bourchier, and probably a relation to Geoffrey Chaucer, the old English poet.

On leaving this Chapel, on your right is a monument to the memory of William Pulteney, Earl of Bath, with a medallion and urn, supported by Wisdom and Poetry. The inscription is as follows:—“Erected to the memory of William Pulteney, Earl of Bath, by his brother, the Hon. Harry Pulteney, General of his Majesty’s Forces, 1764, Ob. July 7, 1767, Æt. eighty-one.”—Wilton, sculptor.

CHAPEL OF EDWARD THE CONFESSOR, LOOKING WEST.

Charles Holmes, Esq., Rear-Admiral of the White; who is represented in a Roman habit, leaning against a cannon mounted on a sea carriage; an anchor, cable, and flag in the back ground.—“He died the 21st of Nov., 1761, Commander-in-Chief of his Majesty’s fleet stationed at Jamaica, aged fifty. Erected by his grateful nieces, Mary Stanwix and Lucretia Stowe.”—Wilton, sculptor.

In front of the monument to Admiral Holmes, is an old gravestone, plated with brass, with Latin inscription, to John of Windsor, nephew of Sir William of Windsor, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in the reign of Edward III. He died April 4, 1414.

Near this spot was buried John Pym, the celebrated Parliamentary orator, who died December 13, 1643; and also James Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, 1656.

VI.—Chapel of St. Edward.

he first curiosity that commands your reverence is the ancient venerable shrine of St. Edward, once the glory of England, but now defaced and robbed of its beauty, by the devotees of this extreme pious man, all of whom were proud to possess some stone or dust from his tomb. This shrine was erected by Henry III. in 1269, to receive the remains of St. Edward, upon his translation from the shrine built by Henry II., upon the canonization of Edward, King of England (third of that name, and the last of the Saxon race), by Pope Alexander III., in 1163, who caused his name to be placed in the catalogue of saints, and issued his bull to the Abbot Laurentius, and the Convent of Westminster, enjoining, “That his body be honoured here on earth, as his soul is glorified in heaven.” He died in 1065. How costly the shrine, &c., was, appears by a record in the Tower.—Parl. Roll. 51st of Henry III. “Henry III., with consent of the Abbot and Convent of Westminster, pledged the jewels belonging to the body and shrine of Edward the Confessor to foreigners, being necessitated on account of heavy emergencies; the value of the said jewels amounted to £2,557. 4s. 8d.”

On the south side of the shrine, Editha, daughter of Goodwyn, Earl of Kent, and Queen of St. Edward, lies interred. The writers of those times commended her for beauty, learning, prudent economy, gentle manners, and inimitable skill in needlework, having wrought with her own hands the curious and magnificent robes the King used to wear on his collar days. She died at Winchester, Jan. 15, 1073. Part of a Latin epitaph on this excellent Princess has been handed down, and is to this effect:—

“Success ne’er sat exulting in her eye,
Nor disappointment heaved the troubled sigh;
Prosperity ne’er sadden’d o’er her brow,
While glad in trouble she enjoyed her woe:
Beauty ne’er made her vain, nor sceptres proud,
Nor titles taught to scorn the meaner crowd.
Supreme humility was awful grace,
And her chief charm a bashfulness of face.”

Near this was buried Matilda, Queen of England, daughter of Malcolm, King of Scots, and wife to Henry I. She died May 1, 1118. This Queen would, every day in Lent, walk from her palace to this church barefoot, and wearing a garment of hair. No verse or stone to mark the place of interment are to be found.

On the north side of this Chapel is an ancient tomb of admirable workmanship and materials, the panels being of polished porphyry, and the Mosaic work round them of gold and scarlet; at the corners of the table are twisted pillars, gilt and enamelled, and the effigy of Henry III. upon it is of gilt brass, finely executed. He died in 1272, after a troublesome reign of fifty-six years, aged sixty-five, and was buried by the Knights Templars, of whose order his father was the founder, with such splendour, that Wykes, the Monk, says, he made a more magnificent figure when dead, than he had done while living.—Cavalini.

Near that of Henry III. is a small monument in memory of Elizabeth Tudor, second daughter of Henry VII., who died at Eltham, in Kent, Sept. 14th, 1495, aged three years, from whence she was removed in great funeral pomp, and here buried.

At the feet of Henry III. is an ancient monument of Eleanor, Queen of Edward I. On the sides of this monument are engraven the arms of Castile and Leon, quarterly, and those of Fontheiu, hanging on vines and oak leaves; and round the copper verge is embossed this inscription, in Saxon characters: “Ici gist Alianor iadis Reyne de Engletere femme al Rey Edeward Fiz (lerey Henry efylle alrey deespaygne econtasse de) puntif del alme deli Deu pur sa pite eyt merci. Amen.” Translation:—Here lies Eleanor, formerly Queen of England, wife to King Edward son of King Henry, daughter of the King of Spain, and Countess of Ponthieu; upon whose soul may God for His pity have mercy. Amen. The upper line is visible on the south side, the words within brackets are concealed under the tomb of King Henry V., the remainder is on the north side. It is remarkable, the body only of this Queen lies here interred, and her heart in the choir of the Friars Predicants in London. She died Dec. 27, 1290.—Cavalini.

The chantry of Henry V. is next, on each side of which are images as large as life, guarding, as it were, the staircases ascending to it. Beneath is the tomb of that glorious and warlike Prince, Henry of Monmouth (so called from the place of his nativity). On the upper slab lies a headless and otherwise mutilated figure of the King, carved in oak, which was originally covered with silver; the head appears to have been cast in silver; but this, Camden says, “was gone when he wrote his Britannica, in the reign of Elizabeth.” This Prince was guilty of great extravagances in his youth, and is said, with Sir John Falstaff, to have belonged to a gang of sharpers; yet, upon his advancement to the crown made a most excellent King, and, by the memorable battle of Agincourt, acquired to himself and the English nation immortal glory. He died in France, Aug. 31, 1422, in the thirty-fourth year of his age, and the tenth of his reign. In the chantry above, is the saddle, helmet, and shield, supposed to have been used at Agincourt, brought here at his interment.—John Anderne, sculptor.

The next is an ancient tomb to the memory of Phillippa, third daughter of William, Earl of Hainault, and Queen of Edward III., with whom she lived forty-two years, and bore him fourteen children. Harding tells us, that when an embassy was sent to choose one of the Earl’s daughters, a certain English Bishop advised to choose the lady with the largest hips, as promising a numerous progeny. She died August 15, 1369; and the King, her husband, bestowed a profusion of expense in performing her exequies and erecting her tomb, round which were placed as ornaments the brazen statues of no less than thirty kings, princes, and noble personages, her relations.

Adjoining to this is the tomb of Edward III., which is likewise covered with a Gothic canopy. On a table of grey marble lies the effigy of this Prince, though his corpse was deposited in the same grave with the Queen’s, according to her request on her death-bed. This tomb was surrounded, like the former, with statues, particularly those of his children, six of which remain on the south side of the tomb; viz., Edward, Joan-de-la-Tour, Lionel, Edmund, Mary, and William. He died June 21, 1377, aged sixty-four.

Here is likewise a monument in memory of Margaret, daughter of Edward IV., by Elizabeth Woodville, his Queen, which had once an inscription upon it, showing her name, quality, and age, being only nine months. She died April 19, 1472.

Between the Chairs are placed the shield and sword carried before Edward III., in France. The sword is seven feet long, and weighs eighteen pounds.

Under a large stone, once finely plated with brass, lies the great Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester; he was brother to the Black Prince, and sixth and youngest son of Edward III. He was murdered at Calais, Sept. 8, 1397.

Next adjoining to this is a tomb, erected to the memory of Richard II. and his Queen; over which is a canopy of wood, remarkable for a curious painting of the Virgin Mary and our Saviour still visible upon it. This Richard was son of Edward the Black Prince, and grandson of Edward III., whom he succeeded at eleven years of age. He was murdered on St. Valentine’s day, 1399. In the same tomb lies his Queen, Anne, daughter of Charles IV., and sister of Wenceslaus, Emperor and King of Bohemia, who brought him neither dowry nor issue. She died at Shene, June 7, 1394, after being married twelve years.

The Coronation Chairs.—The most ancient of them was made to enclose the stone (which is reported to be Jacob’s Pillar), brought with regalia from Scotland, by Edward I., and offered to St. Edward’s shrine, in the year 1297 (after he had overcome John Baliol, King of Scots, in several battles). In this chair all the reigning Sovereigns have been crowned since Edward I. The other chair was made for Queen Mary II. At the coronation, one or both of them are covered with gold tissue, and placed before the altar, behind which they now stand, surrounded by several monarchs, who seem to guard them even in death.

Above those chairs, along the frieze of the screen of this Chapel, are fourteen legendary sculptures, respecting the Confessor. The first is the trial of Queen Emma; the next the birth of Edward; another is his coronation; the fourth tells us how our saint was frightened into the abolition of the Dean-gelt, by his seeing the devil dance upon the money casks; the fifth is the story of his winking at the thief, who was robbing his treasure; the sixth is meant to relate the appearance of our Saviour to him; the seventh shows how the invasion of England was frustrated by the drowning of the Danish King; in the eighth is seen the quarrel between the boys Totsi and Harold, predicting their respective fates; in the ninth sculpture is the Confessor’s vision of the seven sleepers; the tenth, how he met St. John the Evangelist in the guise of a pilgrim; the eleventh, how the blind were cured by their eyes being washed in his dirty water; the twelfth, how St. John delivers to the pilgrims a ring; in the thirteenth they deliver the ring to the King, which he had unknowingly given to St. John as an alms, when he met him in the form of a pilgrim; this was attended with a message from the saint, foretelling the death of the King; and the fourteenth shows the consequential haste made by him to complete his pious foundation.

Before leaving this Chapel you will observe a large plain tomb, composed of five slabs of grey marble; two make the sides, two the ends, and one the cover. This rough unpolished tomb enclosed the body of the glorious King Edward I., of whom we have just been speaking. He was son of Henry III., and born at Westminster, June 17, 1239, named Edward, in honour of St. Edward, his father’s patron and predecessor, and afterwards Longshanks, from his tall and slender body. He is called Edward I., because he was the first of that name after the Conquest. He died July 7, 1307, after a reign of thirty-four years, and a life of sixty-eight. This tomb was opened in 1774, by permission of Dr. Thomas, then Dean of Westminster, granted to the Society of Antiquaries, a deputation of whom, with the Dean, attended the process. The body was perfect, having on two robes, one of gold and silver tissue, and the other of crimson velvet; a sceptre in each hand, measuring near five feet; a crown on his head, and many jewels; he measured six feet two inches.

Near this tomb is a large stone, plated with brass, to the memory of John of Waltham, the twenty-sixth Bishop of Salisbury, anno 1388. He was master of the Rolls in 1382, then Keeper of the Privy Seal, in the year 1391, and died Lord High Treasurer of England to Richard II., in 1395.

In this Chapel was interred the heart of Henry d’Almade, son of Richard, King of the Romans, brother of Henry III. He was sacrilegiously assassinated in the Church of St. Silvester, at Viterbo, as he was performing his devotions before the high altar. Simon and Guido Montford, sons of Simon de Montford, Earl of Leicester, were the assassins, in revenge for their father’s death, who, with their brother Henry, was slain in the battle of Evesham, in fighting against their lawful sovereign. The picture of this murder the inhabitants had painted, and hung up in the church, where we are told it still remains. This murder happened in 1270, and in the year after the body of Henry was brought to England, and buried in the monastery of St. Helen’s; but his heart was put in a cup, and placed near St. Edward’s shrine, of the removal of which we have no account.

Upon a careful perusal of the guide-book to this portion of the Abbey, it will not be uninteresting to observe that the bodies of six kings, five queens, two princesses, a duke, and a bishop are deposited in this remarkable receptacle of the dead.

Before entering the Chapel of St. John, on the right or east side of the door, is a monument erected to the memory of Jane, daughter and co-heiress of Sir John Pulteney, and wife of Sir Clippesby Crewe, Knt. She died Dec. 2, 1639, aged twenty-nine.

On the left, or west side of the door, is a monument to the memory of Juliana, only daughter of Sir Randolph Crewe, Knt., Lord Chief Justice of England. She died unmarried April 22, 1621.

Over the door is the monument of the Right Rev. Dr. Barnard, Lord Bishop of Londonderry, who died in London, January 10, 1768, aged seventy-two, and was here buried.

VII.—Chapel of St. John.

n the left, in this Chapel, is an ancient monument to the memory of Sir Thomas Vaughan, Knight, Chamberlain to Edward, Prince of Wales, and Treasurer of Edward IV. On the top are the mutilated remains of a brass plate of the Knight.

In the recess of this tomb is a bust to the memory of Frederick Denison Maurice. Born August 29th, 1805; died April 1st, 1872; buried at Highgate. “God is Light.” “He was sent to bear witness of that Light.”—T. Woolner, R.A.

Next to this, proceeding on your left hand, is a monument to the memory of Colonel Edward Popham, an officer in Oliver Cromwell’s army, and his Lady. The inscription on this monument was erased at the Restoration, otherwise it would have been removed. He died at Dover, August 19, 1651.

A tablet to the memory of Thomas Carey, second son of the Earl of Monmouth. He was gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles I.; and is said to have died of grief, in 1648, at the age of thirty-three, for the unhappy fate of his Royal Master.

Under this is a tombstone of grey marble, to the memory of Hugh de Bohun, and Mary, his sister, grandchildren to Edward I.

The next monument is to the memory of Henry Carey, first cousin to Queen Elizabeth, created Baron of Hunsdon, in Hertfordshire, in 1558; was some time Governor of Berwick, Lord Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth, Privy Councillor and Knight of the Garter; but not being preferred as he expected, he laid the disappointment so much to heart, that he languished for a long time on a sick bed, at which the Queen being moved too late, created him an Earl, and ordered the patent and robes to be laid before him, but without effect. He died July 23, 1596, aged seventy-two.

In the middle of the Chapel is the tomb of Thomas Cecil, Earl of Exeter, Baron Burleigh, Knight of the Garter, and Privy Councillor to James I.; whereon is his effigy, with a lady on his right side, and a vacant space on his left for another. He died February 7, 1622. The lady on his right side is Dorothy Nevil, his first wife, daughter and co-heiress of the Noble Lord Latimer, who died May 22, 1608; and the vacant space was left for his second wife, Frances Bridget, of the noble family of Chandos; but as the right side was taken up, she gave express orders, by her will, not to place her effigy on his left; notwithstanding which, they are all buried together in one vault, as the inscription expresses. She died in 1663.

In the corner to the left is a tablet:—“Sacred to the memory of the Right Hon. Elizabeth, Countess of Mexborough, who departed this life June 7, in the year of our Lord 1821, aged fifty-nine. Her afflicted husband, John, Earl of Mexborough, hath erected this monument to her memory, in token of his deep sorrow for her loss, and of his sincere love and affection.”

William of Colchester, Abbot of Westminster, who died in the year 1420, has also an ancient stone monument in this chapel, whereon lies his effigy, properly habited, the head supported by an angel, the feet by a lamb.

Thomas Ruthall, made Bishop of Durham by Henry VIII. He had been a Secretary of State to Henry VII., and was by Henry VIII. made a Privy Councillor, and sent on several embassies abroad. He died, immensely rich, in 1524.

A third is that of George Fascet, Abbot of Westminster, in the time of Henry VII., of whom we can find nothing material. He died in the year 1500.

On this monument stands the stone coffin of Thomas Millyng, Bishop of Hereford, some time Abbot of Westminster, and Privy Councillor to Edward IV., who died in 1492.

Facing you is a monument to the memory of Mrs. Mary Kendall, daughter of Thomas Kendall, Esq., and of Mrs. Mary Hallett, his wife, of Killigarth, in Cornwall, who died in her thirty-third year. Her many virtues, as her epitaph sets forth, “rendered her every way worthy of that close union and friendship in which she lived with Lady Catherine Jones; and in testimony of which, she desired that even their ashes, after death, might not be divided, and therefore ordered herself here to be interred, where she knew that excellent lady designed one day to rest near the grave of her beloved and religious mother Elizabeth, Countess of Ranelagh. She was born at Westminster November 8, 1677, and died at Epsom, March 4, 1710.”

Above is a monument to Esther de la Tour de Gouvernet, the Lord Eland’s lady. The inscription is in Latin and English, and contains an encomium on her many excellent virtues. She died in 1694, aged twenty-eight.—Nadaud, sculptor.

VIII.—Chapel of Islip, otherwise Saint John the Baptist.

n the middle of this Chapel formerly stood the monument of Abbot Islip; it consisted of a ground plinth, or basement, on which was an alabaster statue of the Abbot, who was represented as a skeleton in a shroud or winding sheet. Over this was a canopy, on which was anciently a fine painting of our Saviour on the Cross, destroyed by the Puritans in Cromwell’s time, who were enemies to everything that favoured Popish idolatry, though ever so masterly. Islip was a great favourite with Henry VII., and was employed by him in decorating his new chapel, and in repairing and beautifying the whole Abbey. He dedicated his own chapel to St. John the Baptist, and died May 12, 1532, and was buried in his own chapel.

On the right is the tomb of Sir Christopher Hatton, and his Lady, in reclining attitudes on cushions. Sir Christopher died September 10, 1619; and his widow erected this memorial of his virtues and of their own affectionate union.

On the left, opposite the Chapel of Islip, are two very ancient monuments of Knights Templars. The first, that of Edmund Crouchback, son of Henry III., so called, as some affirm, from the deformity of his person; but according to others from his attending his brother in the holy wars, where they wore a crouch or cross on their shoulders as a badge of Christianity. From this Prince the House of Lancaster claimed their right to the crown. On the base, towards the area, are the remains of ten knights, armed, with banners, surcoats of armour and cross-belted, representing, undoubtedly, his expedition to the Holy Land, the number exactly corresponding with what Matthew Paris reports, namely, Edward and his brother, four Earls, and four Knights, of whom some are still discoverable, particularly the Lord Roger Clifford, as were formerly, in Waverley’s time, William de Valence, and Thomas de Clare.

The next ancient monument is to the memory of Aymer de Valence, second and last Earl of Pembroke of this family; he was third son of William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, “whom he succeeded in his estates and honours. He was employed in the Scottish wars in the reigns of Edward I. and II. Edward II., in 1314, appointed him general of all his forces from the Trent to Roxborough. He was appointed to attend Isabel, the Queen Mother, to France, and there murdered, on June 23rd, 1323.”

The Countess of Lancaster’s tomb is seen from the choir, but from this part is hid by the monument of Lord Ligonier; it is canopied with an ancient Gothic arch, the sides of which were decorated with vine branches in relief, the roof within springing into many angles, under which lay the image of a lady, in an antique dress, her feet resting upon lions, and her head on pillars, supported by angels on each side. This monument covered the remains of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster, daughter of William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle and Holdernesse, by Isabella daughter and heiress of Baldwin, Earl of Devon. This lady married Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, son of Henry III., but died the very year of her marriage, Nov. 4, 1293.

On the right is a monument to the memory of General Wolfe, who was killed at the siege of Quebec, 1759. He is represented falling into the arms of a grenadier, with his right hand over the mortal wound: the grenadier is pointing to Glory in the form of an angel in the clouds, holding forth a wreath ready to crown him, whilst a Highland sergeant looks sorrowfully on: two lions watch at his feet. The inscription as follows:—“To the memory of James Wolfe, Major General and Commander-in-Chief of the British Land Forces on an expedition against Quebec, who, after surmounting, by ability and valour, all obstacles of art and nature, was slain in the moment of victory, on the 13th of September, 1759, the King and the Parliament of Great Britain dedicate this monument.”—Wilton, sculptor.

On the right hand wall, side of Wolfe, is a monument to the memory of Bishop Duppa, tutor to Charles II., a man of such exemplary piety, lively conversation, and excess of good nature, that when Charles I. was a prisoner in Carisbrooke Castle, he thought himself happy in the company of so good a man. He was born at Greenwich, and educated first at Westminster School, and then at Christ Church College, Oxford, of which he was afterwards Dean; and being selected for the Preceptor to the then Prince of Wales, was first made Bishop of Chichester, from thence translated to Salisbury, and after the Restoration to the See of Winchester. He died March 26, 1622, in the seventy-fourth year of his age.—Burman, sculptor.

Beneath is a tablet, “Sacred to the memory of John Theophilus Beresford, eldest son of Marcus Beresford, and the Lady Frances, his wife, Lieutenant in the eighty-eighth regiment of foot, who died in the twenty-first year of his age, at Villa Formosa, in Spain, of wounds received from the exploding of a powder magazine, at Ciudad Rodrigo, after he had passed unhurt through eight days of voluntary service, of the greatest danger during the siege, for which he received the thanks of the Commander-in-Chief. Brave and zealous in his military duties, animated by a strong feeling of piety to God, and distinguished by his ardent filial affection and duty towards a widowed mother, he has left to her the recollection of his rising virtues as her only consolation under the irreparable loss she has sustained by his death. Born, Jan. 16, 1792, and died Jan. 29, 1812; interred with military honours, in the fort of Almeida.—‘Yea, speedily was he taken away, lest that wickedness should alter his understanding, or deceit beguile his soul.’—Wisdom of Solomon, chap. iv., verse 11.”—Westmacott, sculptor.

Next to this is a tablet to the memory of Sir James Adolphus Oughton, Commander-in-Chief of his Majesty’s forces in North Britain. The inscription is a recital of his military employments, and a record of his death, which took place April 14, 1780, in the sixty-first year of his age.—Hayward, sculptor.

On the floor is the image of an Abbot in his mass habit curiously engraved on brass, representing John de Eastney, who died March 4, 1498. By the records of the Church he appears to have been a great benefactor to it; he ornamented the grand west window with some noble paintings on glass of which some little still remains. He gave the screen to the Chapel, and presented two images gilt for the altar of St. Peter and St. Paul, and one for the chapter house. He paid the King 1,000l. on account of the merchants, and 3,700l. to the Court of Rome, due for the confirmation of abbots.

A little to the left, on another gravestone, plated with brass, is the figure of an armed Knight, resting his feet on a lion, and his head on a greyhound, which, as the register informs us, represents Sir John Harpedon, Knight, who died in 1457.

Adjoining this is a gravestone, on which have been the figures, in brass, of Thomas Browne and Humphrey Roberts, two monks of this Church, who died in 1508.

On the right as you enter the Chapel is another gravestone, on which has been the effigy of Sir Thomas Parry, Knight, Treasurer of the Household, Master of the Court of Wards and Liveries to Queen Elizabeth. He died December 15, 1560.

IX.—Chapels of St. John the Evangelist, St. Andrew, and St. Michael.

urning round on your right is an unique monument to the memory of Sir Francis Vere, a gentleman of the first reputation, both for learning and arms, “one of the most accomplished soldiers of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, having the command of the auxiliary troops in the Dutch service, nearly twenty years.” He died August 28, 1608, in the fifty-fourth year of his age. Loose armour is represented being supported by four armed knights.

On the back of General Wolfe’s monument is a tablet to the memory of Sir Humphrey Davy, Bart., distinguished throughout the world “by his discoveries in chemical science; President of the Royal Society; Member of the National Institute of France. Born 17th December, 1778, at Penzance. Died 29th May, 1829, at Geneva, where his remains are interred.”

A monument is here erected, by the East India Company, as a grateful testimony to the value and eminent services of Captain Edward Cooke, Commander of his Majesty’s ship Sybille, who on the 1st of March, 1799, after a long and well-contested engagement, captured La Forte, a French frigate of very superior force, in the Bay of Bengal; an event not more splendid in its achievement, than important in its result to the British trade in India. He died in consequence of the severe wounds he received in this memorable action, on the 23rd of May, 1799, aged twenty-seven.—Bacon, sculptor.

The next is a monument to the memory of Sir George Holles, nephew of Sir Francis Vere, and a Major-General under him. He died May, 1626, aged fifty. This monument was erected by John, Earl of Clare.—Nicholas Stone, sculptor.

Adjoining is a monument to the memory of Sir George Pocock, K.B., Admiral of the Blue, who distinguished himself at the taking of Geriah, and in leading the attack at the reduction of Chandernagore; afterwards, with an inferior force, he defeated the French Fleet under M. D’Ache in three several engagements; returning from his successful career in the East, he was appointed to command the fleet upon the expedition against the Havannah, by his united efforts in the conquest of which, he added fresh laurels to his own brow, and a valuable possession to this kingdom. A life so honourable to himself, and so endeared to his friends and his family, was happily extended to the age of eighty-six, and resigned, in the year 1793, with the same tranquil and serene mind which peculiarly marked and adorned the whole course of it.—Bacon, sculptor.

A monument to the memory of Joseph Gascoigne Nightingale, and his Lady. The lady is represented expiring in the arms of her husband; beneath, slyly creeping from a tomb, the King of Terrors presents his grim visage, pointing his unerring dart to the dying figure, at which sight the husband, suddenly struck with astonishment, horror, and despair, seems to clasp her to his bosom to defend her from the fatal stroke. Inscription:—“Here rest the ashes of Joseph Gascoigne Nightingale, of Mamhead, in the county of Devon, Esq., who died July 20, 1752, aged fifty-six; and of Lady Elizabeth, his wife, daughter and co-heiress of Washington, Earl of Ferrars, who died August 17, 1734, aged twenty-seven. Their only son, Washington Gascoigne Nightingale, Esq., in memory of their virtues, did by his last will, order this monument to be erected.”—Roubiliac.

Next to this is a monument of note, sacred to the memory of Sarah, Duchess of Somerset, relict of John Seymour, Duke of Somerset, daughter of Sir Edward Alston, Knt. On the base of this monument are two charity boys, one on each side, bewailing the death of their benefactress, who is represented in a modern dress, resting upon her arm, under a canopy of state, and looking earnestly up at a group of cherubims issuing from the clouds above her. Underneath is a Latin inscription to this effect:—“Here lies the late illustrious Duchess of Somerset, celebrated for charity and benevolence, who erected a grammar school for boys at Tottenham, in Middlesex, enlarged the income of the Green-coat Hospital at Westminster, largely endowed Brazenose College, in Oxford, and St. John’s, in Cambridge, for the education and instruction of youth in good piety and literature. She was likewise an encourager of trade and handicrafts, and had a tender regard to old age, by erecting an almshouse at Froxfield, in Wiltshire, for thirty widows. She was very charitable to the poor of St. Margaret’s, Westminster, where she instituted a lecture, and gave many stately ornaments to the Church.” She died October 25, 1692.

Against the east wall is a tablet erected to the memory of Ann, wife of James Kirton, of Castle Carey, Somersetshire, Gent. She died September 7, 1603.