RIDING AND DRIVING FOR WOMEN

RIDING AND DRIVING
FOR WOMEN

BY
BELLE BEACH

ILLUSTRATED

NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
1912

Copyright, 1912, by
CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS
Published October, 1912

To
MY FRIEND
WITHOUT WHOSE HELP THIS BOOK COULD NOT HAVE BEEN

INTRODUCTION

This book does not pretend to be an exhaustive treatise on the subject of horsewomanship. It is offered merely as a collection of the most important points gleaned in my career as a horse-lover and professional horsewoman. While from experience alone a rider may evolve good form if she is a natural born horsewoman, yet this is so rare that, with most of us, a knowledge at the start of the general fundamental principles which are the basis of form in riding and driving, is essential. It was my good fortune to have my mother, Mrs. Emily S. Beach, lay the foundation for me and, similarly, these chapters may aid some of my readers.

Nothing in this book is hearsay. That which takes but a moment to tell has taken me years to learn; learned as a pupil; learned as a teacher; learned by observation; learned by exhibition, by many a triumph, by many a heart-break; much of it a pleasure, much a hard task, but repaid always by my comrades through it all—the horses.

I desire to express my thanks to Messrs. Brewster & Co., Mr. Herman Haas, Messrs. Martin & Martin, Messrs. Whippey, Steggall & Co., The Durland Co., and Mr. P. Nardī for the many illustrations and suggestions which they have kindly given me. Many of the illustrations are from photographs which my friends have been kind enough to send me.

CONTENTS

ILLUSTRATIONS

RIDING AND DRIVING FOR WOMEN

PART I—RIDING

“I think I could turn and live with animals,

They are so placid and self-contained;

I stand and look at them long and long,

They do not sweat and whine about their condition,

They do not lie awake in the dark and weep for their sins;

They do not make me sick discussing their duty to God;

Not one is dissatisfied. Not one is demented with the mania of owning things;

Not one kneels to another, nor to his kind that lived thousands of years ago.”

—Walt Whitman.

CHAPTER I
FORM IN RIDING

With all the changes in fashion and fads, riding still holds its own, and the field which it occupies can never be invaded. For women, quite as much as and even more than for men, it is of all exercises the one best adapted to keep them in condition, to restore the glow of health, and to key up the whole system to respond to all the delights of life. No less for a woman than for a man is the old saying true, “There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man.”

Self-made riders are apt to scoff at what is termed “form,” but “form” is neither fad nor fashion. It is that way of doing any particular thing that is recognized as the best. This is why a self-taught person is at a disadvantage. She may, possibly from her experience, have worked out the correct theory of riding, but she has not had the advantage

of learning all that has been worked out by others, and it is the assimilation of the results of others’ experience that constitutes form.

Riding should, I think, be as much a part of a child’s education as any of the subjects taught at school; in fact, I would paraphrase and say that “Reading, Riding, and ’Rithmetic” were the essential elements of every child’s education. All children find in it the keenest pleasure, and to the delicate child it offers salvation. Once the first difficulties are overcome, the benefits are soon realized. Benefits not only to the general health, with restored circulation and appetite, but to the character which acquires patience and self-control—qualities quite as essential as the proper use of hands and legs for the making of a horsewoman.

I do not, however, approve of very young children taking riding lessons. The age of seven is quite young enough, for when younger than that a child’s legs are so short that it is difficult for her to keep her balance at any gait faster than a walk. But I do approve of very young children becoming accustomed to the motion and acquiring balance by being held on the back of a very quiet pony, which, of course, should not go beyond a walk. The great danger in beginning too young is that the child may have a fall, and, if she does, may receive a shock to her

nervous system, the effects of which will make her timid about horses for years to come.

I like to have a child come to me for her lesson without fear, not timid from any past experience, yet enough awed at assuming control of so big an object as a pony to have respect for, and be dependent on, her teacher. Later on, confidence will come with increasing knowledge, and so her education as a horsewoman will be properly begun.

Although learning to ride in childhood is certainly an advantage, yet age is not necessarily an impediment to a woman’s learning the art. I have known many women who have never been on a horse’s back until they were forty years of age, or even older, who, after a few courses of lessons, have derived much pleasure from their riding, and, with application, have even become proficient. However, the best riders, like the best singers or pianists, are born, not made, and there is a grace about the natural rider that cannot be attained even by the most thorough training.

Form in riding depends chiefly upon a correct seat, and that in turn depends upon balance and correct position. Balance can only be attained by keeping the muscles relaxed and being ready to respond at any moment to every movement of the horse. It is impossible to acquire balance if all the muscles

are stiff all the time. The body should sway in rhythm with the horse’s gait. This not only looks well, but saves both rider and horse from all unnecessary exertion and fatigue.

Correct Position of Body in Side-Saddle

Incorrect Position of Body
Right shoulder too high and too far forward, caused by wrong position of right knee

Quite as important as balance is the proper position in the saddle. The first point, remember, is that the body must be squarely in the saddle, neither to the right nor to the left, and the right

thigh must be kept pointed almost directly to the front. The body is kept in this position by having both legs at all times in their correct position. The right thigh should be well down on the saddle and the right knee should both press down and pull back on the upper pommel. The right leg from the knee down should be kept close, but not rigid, against the saddle-flap and should be nearly vertical, neither

thrust forward nor sideways nor twisted back, and the right leg should not touch the left leg. If the right leg is kept in proper place, the right shoulder—the bane of so many women riders—will be neither forward nor down, but squarely in line.

Correct Position of Legs
Right leg vertical, left leg bent at knee and hanging naturally

Another Position of Legs
Some women hold their legs in this position, but I do not approve of it

Incorrect Position of Legs
Both legs too far forward

Incorrect Position of Legs
Left leg too far back

The left leg should be kept in the same position as a man’s leg, that is, held in firmly against the

saddle. The left knee should be slightly bent and the leaping horn and the stirrup-leather should be so adjusted that the former will press down and over the left thigh about five inches above the knee. Side-saddles have two holes, in either of which the leaping horn may be screwed, and for most women it is more comfortable to have the horn in the lower

hole. The left leg below the knee should be vertical, neither thrust forward with the heel down nor back with the toe below the level of the heel, nor, on the other hand, thrust out at an angle of forty-five degrees or so from the horse’s side. All but experienced riders should ride with the ball of the foot

resting lightly on the stirrup-iron, with the heel a trifle down and the foot parallel to the horse, or, if possible, pointed in, and this should be done by turning the leg at the thigh joint, just as is later described in the cross seat. When a rider has become expert she may ride with her foot “home,” that is,

with the instep resting on the iron. It is always advisable to ride with the foot “home” when the horse shies or takes a fast gallop.

Correct Position with Horse in Action

On this correct position of the left leg depends the evenness of the hips, and on the correct position of both legs depend the level of the shoulders, the level of the hips, the squareness and firmness of the seat, and the proper control of balance.

The Position of the Child on the Left of the Picture is Correct and that of the Child on the Right is Incorrect

CHAPTER II
HANDS

The hands should be held on a level about six inches in front of the waist; the forearms horizontal, the upper arms hanging naturally from the shoulders, so as to keep the elbows level, and in a vertical plane with the shoulders. Bowing the elbows out, or, on the other hand, clapping them too close to the sides, are common faults, and are equally bad not only for the sake of appearances, but because, in either of these positions, the strength of the arms is lessened. Similarly, the elbows should not be carried back when the hands are in position, for, if they are, you cannot pull the horse up should he stumble, or, on occasion, stop him suddenly; nor should they be carried forward over the knee, for that position is stiff and tiring and gives the body a tendency to bend forward.

In jumping a horse trained to jump in the American fashion, when approaching the jump, the hands are carried well forward and, at the same time, the body is also carried forward. The reason for this is partly to help the horse over the jump, and partly

because the horse, before he rises, throws his head far to the front, and the rider’s hands and body move with him. On landing, the horse’s head and with it the rider’s body and hands resume their normal position.

Both hands should be kept in position, and neither arm should ever be allowed to hang at the side in military fashion. Nothing looks worse in park riding for either a woman or a man. In riding a horse that is bridlewise and perfectly broken so that he will obey the slightest movement of the reins and can make all the changes of action and of gait by a mere suggestion from one hand, the other hand should still be kept in almost the same position as if it held the reins, and remember that if it is necessary to rearrange the hair or the hat, or if you wish to make any gesture with the right hand, to be sure to transfer the whip to the left hand. By neglecting this precaution and carrying the whip in the right hand, when it is moved about, your horse, or your companion’s, may see the whip and think he is about to be struck, and a serious accident may result.

The left hand is the bridle-hand and the one in which the reins should habitually be carried. After mounting, and in first taking up the reins, remember that the snaffle rein is a trifle longer and wider than the curb rein and that the ends of the snaffle reins

are joined with a buckle while the ends of the curb are stitched together.

There are different ways of first taking up the reins. One of the best is to grasp them together in the right hand, the curb reins in the middle and the snaffle reins on the outside, drawing them sufficiently tight to feel the horse’s mouth very lightly, with the ends passing through the hand and out under the little finger; then, holding them all horizontal, to pass the left hand down on them vertically, the near snaffle rein outside the little finger, the near curb between the little finger and the third finger, the off curb between the second and third fingers, and the off snaffle between the first and second fingers. Then let go with the right hand and turn the left hand into its position with the ends of the reins coming out between the thumb and forefinger.

Another way is first to take up the snaffle reins with the right hand, the off rein outside the little finger, the near between the first and second fingers, feel the horse’s mouth lightly, and then pass them into their correct position in the left hand, the near snaffle outside the little finger, the off snaffle between the first and second fingers; then pick up the curb reins with the right hand and pass them to the left hand separated by the third finger.

A third way is first to pick them up in the right

hand in the same position in which they should finally be in the left hand, except that the off and near reins are reversed; that is, the off snaffle rein comes outside the little finger, and the near snaffle rein between the first and second fingers, and similarly with the curb. Then drop the left hand over them, in front of the right, as above described, with the fingers in their correct final position. This position has been already described, but I will state it again: The near snaffle rein comes outside of the little finger, the near curb rein between the little and third fingers, the off curb rein between the third and second fingers, the off snaffle rein between the first and second fingers; the ends of the reins come up through the hand and fall to the right between the thumb and forefinger.

The reins should be adjusted to their proper length with the right hand so as to feel the horse’s mouth lightly before the fingers of the left hand are closed on them. With regard to the ends of the reins, it is equally correct to have all four reins one upon the other, and then put the thumb on top of them all, or to put the thumb on top of the snaffle reins and have the curb reins pass to the right of the thumb, if one is riding on the snaffle; or, if one is riding on the curb, to have the thumb resting on the curb reins and the snaffle reins passing to the right of the thumb.

The reins should be properly arranged in the left hand, as I have described, at the start, when the body and the elbow are in their correct positions, and they should be held at this same length at all times and not allowed to slip through the fingers. They should be held by pressing the edges of the reins, with the fingers, against the cushion of the hand, and not by squeezing the flat surfaces of the reins between the fingers. The principal reason why beginners let the reins slip through their fingers is that they do not hold the reins by the edges.

Correct Position of Reins
1—Off snaffle rein. 2—Off curb rein. 3—Near curb rein. 4—Near snaffle rein.
[View larger image.]

The whip, crop, or stick, whichever may be carried, belongs in the right hand, but the whip and

stick are both carried with the handle up and the small end pointing downward whereas the crop should always be carried with the handle downward and the loop end upward. The reason for this is, probably, because in England crops which have handles are used for opening the latches of gates, and, when held in this position, the handle can be quickly used for this purpose without the crop being shifted. Another reason is because, when used in the hunting field with the lash, the lash can be got out quickly, and the crop will be in position for use at a moment’s notice. Whichever of the three, whip, stick, or crop, may be carried, hold it lightly in the palm between the thumb and first finger of the right hand.

I have already described the position of the reins in the left hand. The next thing to be considered is the position of the left hand itself when holding the reins.

As I have said, the forearm must be horizontal. The hand must be held with the knuckles nearly vertical, and not horizontal, as many hold it. The hand must be bent in toward the body at the wrist, and the wrist must be flexible so as to give slightly with the movement of the horse’s head. Nearly all beginners have great difficulty in remembering to keep the wrist bent, as they are apt to straighten it out so as to give a direct tug on the horse’s mouth with

their arm, and so lose the spring which the supple wrist would give them.

The right hand should be held symmetrically with the left, bent in at the wrist in the same way, and with the knuckles at about the same angle. For beginners, it is better, until they have acquired fairly good “hands,” to hold the bight of all four reins in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, about an inch from the left hand and just below the whip, the bight of all four reins passing through the right hand and out under the little finger. This keeps the right hand in position ready for an emergency, but it does not allow it to interfere with the even pressure and “feel” which the left hand has on the horse’s mouth, with both the near and off reins. Remember that, under normal circumstances, all four reins must be held firmly in the left hand, and that there must be an exactly even pressure on the horse’s mouth on both sides, and that, in order to keep the reins so and prevent them from slipping, they must be held by the edges between the second joints of the fingers and the cushion of the hand, and must also be firmly pressed down between the thumb and forefinger.

The right hand should, as it were, be kept in reserve and used as circumstances may require. For instance, if the horse is thoroughly bridlewise, he will

have been trained to turn to the left by passing the left hand to the left, at the same time slightly turning it on the upper arm as a pivot, thus touching the off side of the horse’s neck with the off reins; similarly, to turn to the right by carrying the left hand to the right, and turning it to the right on the upper arm as a pivot, thus bearing the near reins against the near side of the horse’s neck. Many saddle-horses, however, have not been trained to this, so they have to be turned in riding very much as in driving; that is, by pulling the rein of the side toward which they are to turn.

Now, with a horse which has an exceptionally sensitive mouth, and a rider with exceptionally good hands, this can be done by a mere turn of the left wrist; but if the horse has not a sensitive mouth, or the rider has not very good hands, the right hand must be called into assistance. In such a case turning the horse to the right is very simply accomplished by taking the off reins in the right hand a few inches in front of the left (which, however, must retain its grasp of all the reins without shifting), separated by the little finger, the two reins passing out between the thumb and forefinger. Then, by a slight pressure of the right hand, bring the horse’s head around to the right.

Turning to the left, however, is not done by taking

up the near reins in the right hand, as in driving, but by taking the off reins in the right hand just as if one were going to turn to the right, but without any pull on the off reins. Then letting the off reins slip slightly through the fingers of the left hand, and pulling the near reins with the left hand enough to make the horse turn, and as soon as the turn is accomplished, restoring the reins to the former position in the left hand.

Another purpose for which the right hand must be always available is for shortening the reins. This should be done by grasping the bight or ends of all four reins together in the right hand, behind the left, between the thumb and forefinger, passing through the hand and out by the little finger, and slipping the left hand up on the reins as much as may be needed.

If, however, more strength is required than can be had from the left arm only, the right hand should be placed on all four reins in front of the left hand, which, of course, will have to be turned so as to bring the knuckles horizontal, the reins occupying the same position in the right hand as in the left, only reversed; that is, the off snaffle coming outside the little finger, and the near snaffle between the first and second fingers, etc. The fingers of the right hand are then closed upon the reins and the horse pulled in with all the strength of both arms.

I do not mean to imply for a moment that any horse can be pulled up or stopped by a steady pull on the reins, for no woman is strong enough to stop a horse who is determined to run, by pitting her strength against his. There must be a “give and take,” and even in stopping a runaway, alternately giving him his head and then pulling him in, is far more effective than a steady pull; nor should a horse ever be stopped or pulled up with a jerk unless to avoid running over a child or in some other emergency. To stop a horse or make him slow down, he should first be given his head slightly by carrying the hand forward, and then pulled up gradually. If you start to pull a horse with a violent jerk you will immediately excite his resentment and make him pull against you with all his strength, and you will end in giving him a hard mouth and developing a “puller.”

Another purpose for which the right hand should be in readiness is to tighten the curb reins. If the horse is being ridden, as he usually will be, either with the pressure on all four reins about even or with the curb reins somewhat looser than the snaffle, and he starts to pull, or there is some other occasion for using the curb, the right hand may be brought over in front of the left and the curb reins taken in the right from two to six inches in front of the left hand, separated by the third finger, passing out between the thumb

and forefinger. The curb can then be tightened with the right hand without affecting the snaffle, and the horse made to slow down or stop, as may be required. Great care, however, should be taken by beginners not to attempt to do this, as they would be almost certain to put far too great pressure on the curb, might cause the horse to rear, and would be very apt to make him start to run, through obstinacy. I would, therefore, never advise a beginner to attempt to take up the curb reins in this way unless some emergency made it imperative.

Some riders with very light hands, when riding very powerful horses with rather hard mouths, may find it desirable to ride on the curb instead of on the snaffle. In such case there are two positions which may be taken. One is to put the curb reins in the position of the snaffle reins and vice versa, and then leave the snaffle reins somewhat looser than the curb. This is a method much used with the Kentucky type of saddle-horse and with horses which have been broken to the use of the curb only, as are nearly all army horses.

Another way of holding the reins when riding on the curb is to separate the two curb reins with the little finger of the left hand and the two snaffle reins with the middle finger. The reins are then held in the army fashion. Some horses have been broken to

be ridden in this way, and the rider may find it easier with them.

Neither of these last two ways of holding the reins of which I have spoken should be attempted by beginners as they will only confuse them.

Reversing Position of Curb and Snaffle Reins
1—Off curb rein. 2—Off snaffle rein. 3—Near curb rein. 4—Near snaffle rein.

[View larger image.]

Another point which is very often neglected is that the reins must not be twisted between the bridle and their ends. Be sure that they are kept straight at all times, as it looks very badly to see them twisted either on the neck or in the bight of the reins, and if the bight is twisted, one is very apt to mix the reins when changing them.

With regard to holding the reins in both hands, this should only be done by beginners, and in the hunting field, and with absolutely green horses who have to have their heads pulled around in order to turn them.

I shall discuss the position of the hands in the hunting field in the chapter on hunting, and what I have said about turning horses who are not bridlewise covers all that needs to be said about green horses.

Beginners should not use the curb reins at all, and should hold one snaffle rein in each hand, the snaffle reins being held in the position of the near snaffle rein in the left hand, and the off snaffle rein in the right hand; that is, passing outside of the little finger up through the hand and held between the thumb and forefinger. A beginner, particularly if she has ever driven, will naturally start to take a rein in each hand in the driving position, that is, separated by the thumb and forefinger and coming out under the little finger. This position is never taken in riding. The object of taking a rein in each hand is to accustom the fingers to the reins, and the rider to holding the right hand parallel with the left. Keeping the right hand in a corresponding position to that of the left not only looks smart and neat, but it helps to keep the right shoulder in place. Of course,

in the side-saddle, the tendency of all beginners is to carry the right shoulder forward and higher than the left. If the right forearm is held symmetrically with the left forearm, the right shoulder cannot be out of place.

Correct Position for Park Riding
Right hand holding reins lightly and riding stick

Reins in Both Hands
Position for beginner
Reins in same position in each hand

In riding astride beginners should also hold a rein in each hand, as holding the reins in the left hand only tends to pull the left shoulder forward and out of place. So when riding astride, the symmetrical position of the right hand and arm with the left brings the right shoulder forward and keeps the shoulders square.

I have mentioned above the reasons for sometimes reversing the positions of the curb and snaffle. Another case where this may properly be done is where a running martingale is used.

Next to balance, light hands are the most important attribute of a good rider. They really are a gift, like an ear for music, or a delicate sense of touch, or acute vision, and go with a certain nervous and sensitive temperament. Some riders have naturally light hands and scarcely need any instruction with regard to them. With them the feeling of the horse’s mouth is instinctive. Light hands, however, can, to a great extent, be cultivated, and there is no excuse for any experienced rider having heavy hands. Women are more apt to have light hands than men, and while men may rely on strength to control a horse, and can control many horses by sheer brute force, women very seldom have sufficient physical strength to do this. Women should seek “the strength of effect and not the effect of strength.”

It is hard to define the term “light hands.” If I might attempt a definition, I would say that the hands serve as a means of communication between the horse’s and the rider’s mind, so that the rider, through the touch of the horse’s mouth, communicated through the reins and hands, knows what is in the horse’s mind and so can make the horse’s mind

instantly respond to the rider’s will, and thus the rider and horse are at all times in sympathy, and the horse acting with, and not against, his rider, and the rider with, and not against, her horse.

Lightness does not in any way denote weakness, for, behind the light touch, there must always be firmness, decision, and strength. Nor does lightness mean a touch so vague that it produces upon the horse’s mind an impression of vacillation. In riding it is most important for the rider, once she has made up her mind what to make the horse do, to make the horse do that thing and not allow him to do anything else. One might, indeed, say that lightness of hands is very closely akin to tact and that it is a means of inducing a horse to adopt as his own the will of his rider.

I spoke a moment ago of strength. By this I mean firmness and not brute force. If a rider is fortunate enough to be gifted with lightness, she will be able to control her horse by a spirit of love instead of adopting the brutal method of controlling him by fear and having him prepared at every moment to obtain his revenge upon his rider, as a horse that has been treated brutally is almost certain to do when he has the opportunity.

Coupled with the lightness of hands should be fearlessness in the mind of the rider, and the horse

must know both that the rider is fearless and that she trusts him. If the rider shows a lack of confidence in the horse and acts as if she were suspicious of him, the horse will soon know it, and will do exactly what the rider fears that he will. A horse has a mind which very readily receives impressions from the rider’s mind. For instance, a rider expects a horse to shy at some object; she will unconsciously impart that thought into the horse’s mind and the horse is almost certain to shy; but if she will say to herself, “there is nothing to shy at, we will simply go quietly by this”; if she does not interfere with the reins and gives the horse absolutely no sign that she has any thought of shying in her mind, the horse will, nine times out of ten, if not ten times, pass by the object without showing the slightest alarm. It is usually the rider that shies and not the horse. Some riders make the great mistake of first thinking that a horse is going to shy at some object, then forcing him, by whip and spur, to go up to that object and pass it. They will thus bring the horse to a state of the most pitiable excitement and panic, and, while they may succeed, they may be quite sure that the next time he sees that object, or goes by the same place, he will be far more afraid, for he will dread not only the object itself, but a repetition of the whipping and spurring.

CHAPTER III
MOUNTING—SIDE-SADDLE

There are two ways of mounting with the side-saddle—from the ground and from the block. The former method is preferable, as a block is seldom available, and a woman should always be able to mount from the ground with or without assistance. To mount from the ground without assistance, stand at the horse’s near side, facing the saddle. Lengthen the leather to the last hole, take up the reins in the left hand and then place it on the upper pommel. Place the left foot in the stirrup, assisting with the right hand if necessary, then grasp the cantle with the right hand and spring from the right foot, pulling yourself up with both arms, and throw the body into the saddle, letting go with the right hand just as you reach the saddle. Then raise the right knee and place it over the pommel, shorten the leather to its proper length, adjust the skirt, and place the loops over the feet. While this is easy for a tall woman with a pony, it is very difficult for a short woman with a large horse, so in that case the best

thing to do is to stand your horse downhill or in a ditch, or to stand yourself on a stone or a fence—if one is available.

Mounting without Assistance
Left foot in stirrup, right hand grasping cantle

To mount with assistance, the leather being left at its proper length, stand opposite the cantle, facing to the front, place your left foot in the man’s right hand or in both his hands clasped, then at an agreed signal spring from the right foot and have him

throw you, but not too high, into the saddle, then place the right knee over the pommel and the left foot in the stirrup.

Mounting with Assistance
Groom holding the reins in his left hand and assisting with right hand only

If your horse is nervous or does not stand well, it is better for the man who is assisting you to hold the horse’s reins in his left hand and lift you with his right hand only, or you can take the reins in your left hand and place it on the pommel and your right

hand on the cantle, and then let the man lift you with both hands.

Mounted

In mounting from the block, the groom stands by the horse’s head and holds him; you then sit on the saddle, place your right knee over the pommel and your left foot in the stirrup. The groom should adjust the straps, or you may adjust them yourself,

and you should then take the reins in the left hand. Never, under any circumstances, when mounting from the block, put your foot in the stirrup before you are in the saddle, as, if the horse should start, you would lose your balance and have a fall.

Dismounting with Assistance

In dismounting, with or without assistance, the first thing to do is to take the straps off and clear the

left foot from the stirrup, then throw the right leg clear of the pommel; gather the reins in the right hand and place it on the pommel, then spring lightly to the ground. If any one is assisting you, you should place your left hand on his shoulder. It is most important to clear the stirrup first, as otherwise, with your right knee clear of the pommel, you might lose your balance and be dragged.

Dismounting without Assistance

CHAPTER IV
RIDING ASTRIDE

In these days of “advanced” ideas the advisability of women aping men in yet another way, by riding astride, is the subject of general discussion. Many “authorities” upon riding—“mere men,” it is needless to say—speak with enthusiasm of the day when all women will ride in this, for most of them, ungainly and unbecoming fashion. Personally, I deplore this tendency and believe that it is a mere passing fad and that, except under peculiar conditions which I shall mention, most women ride best and look best in the side-saddle.

The average woman is not built for cross-saddle riding; her legs from the knee up are too short; her thighs too thick; her hips too big, and she is cushioned too high to enable her to keep close down with the required firmness on the saddle. The side-saddle certainly insures a stronger seat, especially in all cases of pitching forward, as, for instance, with a stumbling horse or a kicking one, or on landing after a jump. With safety skirts and safety stirrups the danger from dragging is obviated and this, the only serious danger in the use of the side-saddle, is more

than offset in my judgment by the great danger of a woman being thrown because of her insecure seat in a man’s saddle. Many claim that the cross-saddle is safer than the side-saddle in case of a rearing horse falling over backward. I do not agree with this, for, in the first place, many good men riders have suffered shocking accidents in this way and, when riding in the cross-saddle, unless the rider succeeds in throwing himself clear from the horse, he is almost sure to have one leg broken. On the other hand, with a side-saddle, if the horse comes down on his off side, there is no danger of a broken leg, and when the horse starts to rear a woman can usually make him fall on the off side by pulling his head to that side with all her strength, so that on this point the ease of clearing oneself from a cross-saddle is more than offset by the ability to throw the horse with safety and make him fall on the off side.

Up to the age of eleven or twelve it is a good plan for a young girl to learn to ride astride and so acquire balance and confidence, but if she is to use the side-saddle eventually she should certainly begin to use it at the age of twelve, and I would advise beginning as early as eleven. If she begins on the cross-saddle and acquires the knack at this early age, it will be easier for her to take it up again on occasion later in life, and, of course, the advantages which come from

learning to ride without a saddle can best be acquired astride, though they may be acquired with a pommel and leaping horn on a surcingle.

Correct Costume for Young Girls Riding Astride

In riding, women are very generally accompanied by men, and there are few occasions when a woman has it in her power to look better—or worse—than when in the saddle. It is only those women who are built like men and very young girls who look at all well astride. A woman with merely a normally developed figure looks both ridiculous and immodest in

this position, and in an English saddle thoroughly ill at ease.

Correct Position for Riding Astride

Much as I disapprove of most women using the cross-saddle, yet, as this book is intended to be a somewhat complete treatise on riding for women, and as many women insist on using the cross-saddle, and as in some parts of the West, and in roughing it, riding must be astride if at all, I shall make a few suggestions about the way in which a woman can best attempt to do this, though it is something in which she can rarely, if ever, attain perfection.

The saddle for cross riding generally used by women in the East is the same as a man’s, although some makers are offering a cross-saddle especially adapted for women (see illustration, [page 155]). These saddles are built more on the lines of an army saddle, having more dip and a straighter flap than those for men.

Many men, and nearly all hunting men and polo players, use plain flap saddles; that is, without rolls and cut well forward so as to give plenty of room for the knees (see illustration, [page 155]). This type of saddle enables the rider to have his knees well up and forward and gives him a very firm seat for jumping. Few women, however, are long enough in the legs from the knee up to take this seat, so most women will find a roll flap saddle more comfortable.

In the West the Mexican type of saddle is generally used. This saddle has a high pommel, or even a high horn in front and a very high cantle serving as a back rest, making what is practically a “dished out” seat, far better suited to a woman’s conformation than the English saddle. The Mexican type of saddle, however, is not adapted to a horse with a square trot, but only to the loping or fox trotting horses of the West. The reason for this is that in posting or rising to the trot, the knees should be quite well up and forward, and the Mexican saddle is so built that in it one cannot take this position.

There are two distinct types of seats recognized in this country which may be called, for distinction, the military and park seats; the former is the correct seat for the saddle of the Mexican type. In this seat the rider sits upright with the legs almost straight, the knees scarcely bent, and the ball of the foot resting on the iron, with the leather very long. In fact, many military riders have their legs perfectly straight and their toes down. This seat is comfortable only on the “five-gaited” horses; that is, horses whose gaits are the single foot, the lope, the canter, the pace, but whose trot, instead of being the smart square trot of the Eastern park hack, is more of a running walk and is known as the “fox trot.” With a horse that has a true, square trot, it will be found, as I have

said, that posting is both difficult and tiring with this military seat and it is ill adapted for jumping anything over two feet in height. In the military seat the trot is taken up from the ankles, so that the knees are slipping up and down, while in the park seat posting or rising is done from the knees, which should remain in the same position at all times.

The “Cowboy” Western Costume and Saddle

The park seat looks much smarter than the other, and suits the gaits of the types of horses used in the East far better and is the proper seat for the English or hunting saddle. In this seat the stirrups are considerably shorter and the knees are well bent and carried in front of the leathers. The feet may be carried “home” in the irons or resting on the ball of the foot, as preferred. For hunting, the former is the position used by almost all men and equally advisable for women. Many of the best riders ride with their feet “home” at all times because, with most saddles, particularly if the rider has long legs, with the feet “home” the lower leg is advanced about six inches and, as it should be, carried vertically. This brings the knee well in front of the leathers. This position gives the correct hunting seat and that seat is entirely correct for park riding. Personally, I prefer riding with the feet “home” at all times.

To acquire a firm and balanced seat in riding

astride, by far the best method for a child is to take the first lessons on a blanket and surcingle without stirrups, or on a felt pad with detachable wooden stirrups. The seat must be close and the rider should rely on balance and not on the grip of the knees, except in jumping or in emergencies, such as shying or bucking. The principle, whether with or without a saddle, is to balance at all times, with an intuition when to grip.

While women cannot be expected to go through this preliminary course without saddle or stirrups, it is unquestionably the best way to teach boys, and I see no reason why girls should not go through it as well. The great advantage of beginning without stirrups is that it teaches a close seat at the start. Many riders who have not learned by riding at first without saddle and stirrups acquire the habit of relying altogether too much on the stirrups to keep their seats. In doing this their muscles are kept rigid, they become stiff and awkward, and they rely upon grip and strength, when they should rely on ease and balance. This fault is especially common with women, probably because they have been used to the support of the pommel and leaping horn of the side-saddle.

In riding bareback, or on a blanket, the rider, if she is to retain her seat at all, must do so by acquiring

a close seat, while in the saddle she can rely more on the stirrups.

Mounting English Fashion
First position, right hand on cantle. Note that the left hand is grasping the mane instead of the pommel

Mounting English Fashion (Another Way)
First position, left hand grasps mane instead of resting on pommel, and right hand on pommel instead of cantle. This position is good with a restive horse

There are two recognized methods of mounting—the “army” and the “English.” The latter is generally adopted in the East, but there is much to be said in favor of the former, even with the English saddle, while it is far the better method with the

Mexican or army saddle. The English method is this: The rider stands on the near side, facing the saddle. The reins are gathered in the left hand in their proper position, as described in the chapter on “Seats and Hands,” and are drawn tight enough to feel the horse’s mouth lightly. The pommel is then grasped in the left hand. The left foot is placed in

the iron, assisted by the right hand, if needed. The cantle is then grasped in the right hand and the rider springs from the right foot assisted by the pull of the arms. The right leg is swung over the cantle and into position on the off side of the saddle, while at the same time the right hand is swung forward and out of the way of the leg.

Mounting Military Fashion
First position, right hand on pommel, left hand grasping mane. This is practically the same as shown on [page 47]

Mounting Either Fashion
Second position, body balanced by throwing weight on both arms

The army method is this: The rider stands at the horse’s near shoulder, facing toward the pommel. The snaffle reins only are gathered in the right hand so as to feel the horse’s mouth lightly. The off rein outside the little finger, the near rein between the first and the second fingers, and the bight of the reins passing between the thumb and the forefinger and

falling on the near side of the horse so as not to be caught in the right leg. The pommel is then grasped with the right hand. The left foot is placed in the iron assisted by the left hand, if needed. A lock of the mane from six to twelve inches above the withers is then grasped in the left hand and the rider springs from the right foot assisted by the pull of both arms. The right leg is swung over the cantle and into position on the off side, the foot placed in the stirrup, and then the snaffle reins are passed into the left hand in their proper position and the curb reins are taken up in the right hand and placed in their proper position in the left.

This army method of mounting is claimed to be, and I am inclined to think it is, safer than the other, especially with a restive or kicking horse. It appears to give the rider a firmer hold while in the act of mounting. The rider’s weight is so far forward that it is very difficult for the horse to rear, and the rider, before placing his foot in the stirrup, stands so far to the front that he is out of the reach of the horse’s kick. When mounting in the English fashion, if the horse rears before the rider has swung his leg over, there is quite serious danger of an accident, and a minor point is that, unless the saddle is tightly girthed, it is very much less liable to slip when mounting in the army fashion, as a large part of the

weight of the rider is supported by the horse’s mane.

This army method of mounting is in general use in the West, and of course in the American army, and many men with army training habitually use it with the English saddle.

In order to adjust the leathers to the proper length before mounting, most women will find, as most men do, that the stirrup from the tread of the iron to the extremity of the leather should be the length of the whole arm extended, and this may readily be measured by placing the tips of the fingers on the stirrup bar, so that the base of the iron rests against the armpit.

After mounting, to adjust the length of the stirrups, clear the feet from the irons and straighten the legs so that they fall naturally. The tread of the iron should then be made to come just at the ankle joint, and the stirrups will then be the right length when the feet are carried “home.”

Dismounting
Right leg over pommel, left foot clear
Few, however, can dismount in this fashion without shifting the reins

In dismounting, whichever method you adopt, be sure to clear the left foot from the stirrup as well as the right foot before you start. There are two methods in vogue: the first is to clear both feet from the stirrups and then throw the right leg over the horse’s head, turning the body on the saddle to the left and dropping the reins for a moment as the right

leg goes over, and gathering them again in the right hand as soon as it has cleared the horse’s neck; then spring off the horse to the ground, steadying the body with the right hand on the horse’s shoulder and throwing the body well clear of the horse. This is a very good way, unless your horse is nervous or apt to rear. The other way is to throw both feet clear

of the stirrups, then gather the reins in the right hand and place it on the pommel. Place the left hand on the horse’s neck and throw the body entirely clear of the horse, the right leg passing over the horse’s quarters.

Dismounting
Right leg over cantle, left foot clear
This method is safer than the last

Many riders step off the horse; that is, they keep the left foot in the stirrup, disengage the right foot,

throw the right leg around the horse’s quarters, then step down in the reverse of the way in which they mount. This, however, is rather dangerous, for, if the horse should start when you are in the act of dismounting, you are in a position where there is almost no control and you are likely to have an accident through being dragged with the left foot in the stirrup.

It goes without saying that no reliance whatever must be placed on the reins for keeping the seat. Many beginners, and even some experienced riders who should know better, whenever they feel themselves losing their balance, hang on by their reins. This invariably results in giving the horse a hard mouth, and is very dangerous with a spirited horse or one whose mouth has not been spoiled by this practice, as it is almost sure to make him rear, which causes the inexperienced rider to lose her seat completely. It is the principal cause of the hard mouth of the typical “riding-school horse.” No rider with good hands will ever hang on by the reins, and in nearly every case in my experience it has been the pulling rider and not the pulling horse.

The secret of the close seat in the position astride is to turn the legs inward from the thigh joints so as to open the legs to their utmost capacity. This brings the rider’s body in the closest possible contact with

the horse’s back and brings the feet parallel, or nearly so, to the horse’s body, and puts the knees and thighs in the best position for gripping when necessary. There is a great deal of knack about this. It is not difficult to put one’s legs in this position at a walk, but it is difficult to keep them so while the horse is trotting or cantering, without having the muscles rigid, whereas the leg should be kept in this position with all the thigh muscles completely relaxed, especially those underneath the seat. While in gripping it is necessary to contract the muscles on the upper inner sides of the thighs, these are the only thigh muscles which should be contracted. The contracting of the other thigh muscles tends to throw the rider out of her seat. This seat can certainly be acquired by practice and, once acquired, it becomes second nature. The majority of riders and nearly all women, instead of turning the legs inward from the thigh joints, turn their knees out and grip with the calves of their legs, with all their thigh muscles rigid. Obviously, as the only joint in the leg on which the leg can rotate is the thigh joint, turning the knee out twists the whole leg the wrong way. This results in the large muscles of the thigh being contracted and in the rider sitting on them, instead of sitting down close to the saddle. The difficulty is that, with a beginner, it seems natural to

turn the knees out and grip the horse with the calves, but it is impossible to acquire a firm seat in this way, and the position is not only awkward and insecure but very tiring.

I cannot say too often that the seat must be acquired by balance and all the muscles of the legs and of the body and arms must be relaxed. If the leg muscles are rigid and the legs are not turned inward from the thigh joints, the rider will be lifted off the saddle by the contraction of the muscles of the thigh and will not be in balance. Dependence will then be placed on gripping, and this gripping will be done with the calves instead of the knees. A sure indication that the legs are thus held is when the feet are turned outward, for they cannot be unless the whole leg from the thigh joints is so turned.

The legs should be kept well forward, with the knees in front of the leathers, and the legs from the knees down vertical and hanging naturally. At the canter the legs from the knees down should be carried forward rather than back. The body should be well back in the saddle about two inches in front of the cantle and resting comfortably.

Most beginners, although they may take this seat while the horse is standing or at a walk, lose it the moment he takes up a trot. They then begin to lose their seats by leaning too far forward, contracting

the leg muscles and bringing their legs back. This is chiefly the result of fear, of self-consciousness, and of “trying too hard.” It is one of the results of the worst fault of nearly every beginner, that of keeping the muscles rigid all the time and trying to hold on by legs, pommel, reins, and mane instead of merely sitting on in a comfortable position and relying on balance.

With regard to playing polo, many women have the idea that they can only play polo in a man’s saddle. My opinion, based on my own experience and the experience of many of my friends, is directly to the contrary. Many women play polo, and play it very well, in a side-saddle, and I do not know any reason why a woman cannot play at least as well riding in a side-saddle as riding astride. She certainly has a more secure seat in the side-saddle, and the first awkwardness of the back-hand stroke in this position being overcome, all the other strokes are quite as easy, and it is so much easier to ride another player off when one is in the side-saddle that all the women on both teams should ride either in the side-saddle or in the man’s saddle in order to make the game fair.

CHAPTER V
HUNTING

So many books have been written on “Hunting” and the subject so exhaustively treated, that I shall only attempt to discuss under this head a few points of particular interest to women.

When a woman hunts she enters a masculine field of sport, and in the hunting-field she is meeting men on their own ground and on even terms. In the hunting-field, therefore, a woman must expect to take her chances with the men, and she is not entitled to that courtesy and deference which she may expect on other occasions.

Over Post and Rail

For example, if a woman loses her hat or stirrup, she should not expect any man to pick it up for her or to pay her the slightest attention. Again, if a woman and a man are both going at the same fence, she should not expect him to pull up and allow her to go over first or to treat her otherwise than as he would another man. It is not field etiquette. So, if a woman has a tumble and is not disabled, she need not expect the men to give up the hunt to help her into the saddle. They are not supposed to do anything

of the kind. It follows, therefore, that if, for example, a woman and a man are going at the same panel and the man has the right of way, the woman should yield to him and follow him over.

A High Jumper and Hunter (Taconite)

The following are points of hunting etiquette which must always be borne in mind; indeed, I may almost say that they are rules which must be strictly observed:

Two riders should never go at the same panel at the same time. While it is quite right for two or more riders to go at the same fence at the same time, it is not only against etiquette, but quite dangerous, for two to go at the same panel. So in going at a single panel—where, for example, there are trees or wire on both sides, or for any other reason there is only one panel in the fence which can be jumped, or where it is what is termed in hunting a “trappy place,” so that the field have to go over it one after the other—if your horse refuses you should not put him at it again, but turn him away from the panel and then take your turn as soon as you have a chance to swing in; otherwise you not only violate hunting etiquette, but you are in great danger of causing an accident to the rider who is immediately behind you. Moreover, the whole field should not be held up while your horse is trying it again.

At a check all the field should, if near the hounds, stand still and keep quiet, for noise and motion disturb the hounds when they are in the act of picking up the scent.

The type of hunter suitable for a woman is described in Chapter X—“The Saddle Horse.” No woman should go into the hunting-field at all unless she is a thoroughly experienced rider and has complete confidence in herself. Even then she should

not attempt to ride a green hunter until she has had years of hunting experience. She should ride a qualified hunter and, however experienced she may be, she should bear in mind that, in all probability, the horse knows how to take the jumps better than she does. The maxim, “Let your mount have his head while you keep your own,” will carry a woman safely and surely to the finish.

Giving Him His Head Over a Jump (Heatherbloom)

As a general rule, unless a woman knows her mount thoroughly and has ridden him many times,

she should not attempt to help him over his jumps. Every horse has an individual style of jumping, and it is nearly always best to develop his own natural style and not to attempt to make him jump in a way that is unnatural to him.

There are three quite different ways in which horses jump: one by rushing, one by taking the jump in the stride, and the other by popping over. One cannot say that any one of these styles is best, for it all depends on the individual horse. Some horses do best in one way, others in another; and a horse who naturally rushes his jumps can hardly ever be trained to pop over them quietly, and the horse who has jumped in his own natural style for years can jump far more safely in that style, even if it be rushing, than if his rider attempts to make him jump in any other style.

For a woman the best style of jumping is that of the hunter who swings along and takes his jumps in a steady stride, and who is neither too fast nor too slow; who is up with the hounds, yet not on them.

What I am about to say with regard to the seat and hands in jumping applies to hunting in this country, not in England, for there the horses are very differently trained; but in any case a woman should always find out how a horse has been trained before attempting to jump him.

Positions of Hands in Hunting

Gathering reins before taking off

Giving him his head over a jump

When in the field the best position in which to hold the reins is to take them in both hands, the near snaffle and the near curb in the left hand in their usual position, and the off curb and off snaffle in the right hand in their usual position, the snaffle and curb in each hand being separated by the little finger. The ends of the reins come through the right hand between the thumb and forefinger and the ends are gathered in a loop which passes between the second and third fingers of each hand. While it is not necessary to hold the reins in this position all the time in the field, it is the best position to hold them in when jumping. When the reins are held in this

position the elbows should be in their usual place, unless you are riding a horse who needs to be given his head a little more, in which case they must be a little to the front. Before coming to a jump the arms should not be stiff and the hands should not be held as far apart as the loop in the reins will allow.

Side-Saddle, Position Rising, Hands and Body Forward

The position of the body and legs is the same as I have described in chapter I, but, if anything, the stirrups should be one or two holes shorter than for ordinary riding, so as to have the left knee well

bent and the leaping horn touching the left leg about five inches above the knee.

Astride, Position of Legs, Hands, and Body at Top of Jump

When approaching a jump the horse should be kept well in hand and should be gathered about two strides before the take-off. The moment he takes off he should be given his head by dropping the hands and carrying them well forward with the elbows nearly straight. This will carry the body well forward, and both body and hands should be kept in this position until the horse has cleared the jump, when the body should be thrown back, so that, when the

horse lands, the rider’s body will be well back in the position that it was before he took off.

In jumping, the reins should never be long and must always be held at such length that if the horse touches or stumbles he can be pulled up, and this can only be done by carrying the hands well forward in the way I have described. They must be carried forward in order to give him his head, for, when a horse comes to a jump, he throws his head very far forward so as to get his balance and exert his greatest strength.

What I have said above applies equally to a horse that rushes his jumps, to one that takes them in his stride, and to one that pops over. It is particularly important to keep a rusher well in hand and not allow him to get such speed before the take-off that he cannot rise, for, in that case, he is almost sure to crash into the fence and have a very bad fall. While most horses need a good deal of speed to carry them over the jumps, they should not be at their top speed, for if they are they will not rise.

What I have said above applies to an American-trained hunter.

If you are riding an English-trained hunter, the manner of approaching a jump is entirely different. With them, if you give them their head too much they stop, so that in order to make them jump you

have to lean back and pull on the reins. If you attempt to jump an English-trained horse in the American way or an American-trained horse in the English way, you are very apt to come to grief.

Side-Saddle, Front View, Rising

What has been said above with regard to the manner of jumping a fence applies equally to jumping a ditch or anything else.

The higher or the broader a jump, the more important it is to take it correctly. The difference between the various jumps is well expressed in the old maxim, “Fast at water and ditches and slow at

timber”; but there is so much timber and so few ditches and water jumps in this country, and the pace is so fast, that this advice is hard to follow. When I say fast I refer to drag hunting.

Coming Down

In hunting, a woman should be at either the front or back. It is better for her not to be in with the field, and she should regulate her pace according to the horse she is on. If in a strange country, the best thing for her to do is to follow some good rider who knows the country well rather than attempt to pick her way as she would in a country which she knew.

A Good Type of Hunter, Bred in Virginia (Philosopher)

In hunting it is most important to save your horse, to keep him fresh for the jumps, and not tire him out at the start. Don’t ride to the “gallery,” and if you have the choice between a sensational jump and a gap, take the gap and save your hunter. Remember that you are not giving an exhibition of high jumping, nor are you in a horse-race.

Bear in mind that the master or huntsman sets

the pace and that, ordinarily, particularly at the start, he should be in the lead. One should not pass the huntsman and, above all things, one should never ride up on the hounds. If you come to a ploughed field, go around it if you can, and, if you have to cross it, spare your horse as much as possible.

A Good Type of Hunter, Bred in the North (Ripple)

Somehow hunters go better for a woman than for a man. Perhaps it is because a woman’s hands are

lighter, either from ignorance or knowledge, or perhaps it is because a woman is not so insistent and is less domineering. It is always better to let the hunter jump than to jump the hunter.

Ordinarily a good hunter may be hunted at least twice in a week, but so much depends on the country, on the rider herself—to say nothing of the horse—that one cannot lay down any rule in regard to this. Between the hunts, unless after an unusually stiff run, a hunter may be larked a bit, or driven to a light trap, or walked for an hour or two. This will ordinarily keep him in better condition than letting him stand in the stable. In fact, in my own experience, I have known hunters that were hunted one day and driven to market the next, and the market I have in mind was not at all near home. Many heavy-weight hunters are driven from time to time in the wheel, and light-weight hunters in the lead, both of a four and tandem. Indeed, the leader of a tandem was originally a hunter. So that a hunter may be a useful horse in the stable.

If one has a thoroughly reliable and seasoned hunter well up to one’s weight, he ought to be able, barring accidents, to carry one through the season, unless one is attempting to hunt more than twice a week, and there are few women in this country who are strong enough to do that.

Correct Hunting Costume
Note the way the thong is carried

In chapter VIII I have indicated the costume for the hunting-field, but for convenience I will restate it here. The correct appointments for the side-saddle are:

Breeches of either dog-skin or buckskin or white cloth or of the same material as the habit.

The habit should be very dark gray, almost black, hunting cloth. The collar should be of the colors of one’s hunt.

The buttons should be black, with the name, design, or monogram of the hunt in white or gold. The correct coat is made without a seam in the middle of the back and with two vents at the side instead of one in the middle, and is somewhat shorter than the habit coat that many women wear. It may be made with five or three buttons, according to the wearer’s fancy, but preferably with five.

An apron or half-apron skirt should be worn, for safety’s sake.

The boots must be of black calf. Patent-leather or russet boots are not correct in the field.

A silk hat is correct, but a derby or a hunting hat, such as I have described in chapter VIII, may be worn, and a hat guard, such as I have there described, is necessary.

Either tan dog-skin or white buckskin gloves are correct.

An Ascot stock should be worn with a plain bar gold pin.

Attached to the two D’s on the off-side of the saddle should be a sandwich case with a flask in it, a sandwich in the case, and a drink in the flask.

Sandwich Cases and Flasks

A pair of white woollen gloves must be carried on the off-side under the flap.

In England a crop is always carried in the field. In this country it is correct, but a cutting whip may be carried instead. If a crop is carried it may have a thong, although, personally, I think it a great nuisance.

The saddle and bridle are the same as I have described in chapter IX, except that, in the field side-saddle, a woman should always use a breastplate,

and if she has a horse that cannot carry a breastplate she had better not hunt him.

As I state in chapter IX, a standing martingale should never be used in the field, but a running martingale may be used if the horse requires it, as is often the case. For many horses the best bit to use in the field is a plain snaffle, with very large rings, so that the bit cannot be pulled through the horse’s mouth. The bridle should have a cavesson, instead of the usual noseband. Other horses go better with what is known as a four-ring snaffle; that is, a snaffle which, instead of having the cheek pieces attached to the snaffle rings, has them attached to separate rings, the rings to which the cheek pieces are attached and the snaffle rings being of the same size and both much larger than the rings of an ordinary snaffle-bit. The reins only are attached to the snaffle rings in this form of bit. This bit is more severe than a plain snaffle, but much less severe than a curb.

Generally speaking, only riders with very light hands should use the curb bit in the hunting-field, unless with horses having unusually hard mouths, or “pullers.” In going over the jumps it is very difficult to keep an even pressure on the curb, and there is great danger of bringing up the horse too short on landing.

CHAPTER VI
THE SHOW RING

In showing horses under saddle, the mental and physical attributes of the rider have a greater scope than when riding under any other circumstances. Very frequently it is the rider who wins blue ribbons quite as much as the horse, and at every horse show one sees horses lose the ribbons which they should win because of the crude way in which they are shown. A woman, in justice to herself as well as to her mount, should not enter the show ring until she has become a thoroughly experienced and accomplished rider, and however well a woman may ride in the park or in the field, it by no means follows that she will be able to bring out the best points of a horse in the ring.

Just as there are horses which win countless blue ribbons in shows, but do not compare with other horses in the field or for general use, so, on the other hand, there are women whose only delight is the show ring. They hunt not, neither do they hack.

The experience which has been gained in ordinary riding will not be of very great assistance in

showing “horse show horses”; that is, horses which are kept only for show purposes. These animals require most careful handling and a thorough comprehension of their individual characteristics.