The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

THE
HOUSEKEEPER’s
VALUABLE PRESENT:

OR,

Lady’s Closet Companion.

BEING A

NEW AND COMPLETE

ART OF PREPARING

CONFECTS,

ACCORDING TO

MODERN PRACTICE.

Comprized under the following Parts; viz.

With a Variety of other useful and elegant Articles.

By ROBERT ABBOT,

Late apprentice to Messrs. Negri & Gunter,

Confectioners, in Berkeley Square.

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR;

And sold by C. COOKE, No. 17, Pater-noster Row;

and all other Booksellers in Town and Country.

[Price 2s. sewed, or 2s. 6d. neatly bound.]

PREFACE.

DURING the course of my apprenticeship with Messrs. Negri and Gunter, in Berkeley Square, many housekeepers to noblemen and gentlemen, on special occasions, were frequently present, in order to observe our peculiar method of preparing confects.

Since I left Messrs. Negri and Gunter, I have had frequent applications from those persons, as well as others, for receipts and information respecting improvements and additions to this art. But being engaged in the service of several noblemen, and thereby deprived of the opportunity of attending to the numerous applications from respective housekeepers for New Receipts, I determined to form the following Treatise, that they might present it to their friends; and that it might supply the place of personal application, I have comprized in it every article that is necessary to render the reader a proficient in the art.

From the nature of my occupation, and the time necessary to acquire a due knowledge of it, I cannot be supposed qualified to write in a masterly stile; and am therefore inclined to hope the candid reader will be disposed to overlook any little errors that may be observed in this Treatise, considering it not as the production of a scholar, but the essay of a man, who has devoted the greater part of his life to the pursuit of the art under consideration.

I presume my having served an apprenticeship to men of such eminence in the line of Confectionary, and such respectability in their connections as Messrs. Negri & Gunter, that it will be considered as a recommendation of the following sheets; and as all the Treatise I have seen contain only old and exploded Receipts, render it necessary that something new should appear on the subject; and as the receipts I have given are the result of my own practice and experience, I think it will add a sanction to the present undertaking.

Upon the whole, as I have not omitted any article that can be useful to housekeepers in particular, and families in general, I trust I have not arrogated to myself a right to which I have no claim, in prefixing to my work the title of

THE HOUSEKEEPER’S VALUABLE PRESENT.

R. ABBOT.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

PART II.

PART III.

PART IV.

PART V.

PART VI.

PART VII.

PART VIII.

THE

COMPLETE

CONFECTIONER.

PART I.

DIFFERENT METHODS AND DEGREES OF BOILING SUGAR.

To clarify Sugar.

TAKE a pan proportioned in size to the quantity of sugar you intend to clarify: to thirty pounds of sugar, put two gallons of water: whisk the white of an egg in the water, and set the pan on the fire; when the sugar begins to boil, add half a pint of water, to prevent its boiling over, and also to raise the scum. Having skimmed the sugar till there remains only a small white scum, totally different from the other, which is foul and black, take it off, and strain it into the pan in which you intend to keep it for use.

N.B. A particular attention to these rules, respecting the clarifying of sugar, will greatly conduce to the effect of the directions, which will be laid down hereafter.

To boil Sugar to the Degree called Smooth.

Having first clarified, put the quantity of sugar required into the preserving pan, and let it boil over the fire. You will ascertain its having boiled to the degree called smooth, by the following experiment: Dip your finger into the sugar; then put that finger and your thumb together. If in opening them you see a small thread drawn, which breaking immediately leaves a drop on the finger, you may conclude the sugar is boiled to the degree called smooth.

To boil Sugar to the Degree called Pearled.

This method of boiling sugar is thus ascertained: Take a little of the sugar when boiling, between your finger and thumb, and if on separation a string adheres to both, it is boiled to the degree called pearled.

To boil Sugar to the Degree called Blown.

Let the sugar boil longer than on the former occasion, and make the following experiment: Dip the skimmer into the sugar; take it out immediately; and if on blowing strongly through the holes of the skimmer, little bladders appear, the sugar is boiled to the degree called blown.

To boil Sugar to the Degree called Feathered.

This is a higher degree of boiling sugar than either of the former. It is proved thus: Having dipped the skimmer into the sugar, and shaken it over the pan, give it a sudden flirt behind you, when, if it flies from the skimmer in particles resembling feathers, it is boiled to this degree.

To boil Sugar to the Degree called Crackled.

This degree is ascertained in the following manner: The sugar having boiled somewhat longer than on the former process; dip a skewer into it, and immediately after into cold water; if on drawing the sugar from the skewer it snaps like glass, it is boiled to the degree called crackled.

To boil Sugar to the Degree called Carmelled.

This degree is thus ascertained: Having boiled the sugar longer still, dip a skewer into it, and immediately after into cold water. If the sugar be boiled to the degree called carmelled, it will snap the very instant it touches the cold water, and must be taken off directly, to prevent burning and discolouration.

PART II.

METHODS OF PRESERVING FRUITS &c.

To preserve Oranges or Lemons whole.

Having selected the largest and best coloured oranges, carve them, cut a round hole in each, where the stalk grew; put them into a pan of cold water, set them over the fire, and boil them till they become so soft that you may thrust a straw through them, shifting the water twice during the time of this boiling; then take them out, put them into cold water, and let them remain till they become cold; after which scoop out the cores with a spoon, put them again into cold water, and let them there remain forty-eight hours, shifting the water during that space four times: drain them when taken out, put them into the preserving pan, cover them with clarified sugar, and then let them simmer over a fire for about two hours: proceed in this manner for seven or eight days; then drain them from the sugar, and having prepared a fresh quantity boiled to the degree called pearled, put in the oranges, and having boiled them for the space of an hour, set them by for use in an earthen pan, or put them into glasses, and cover them with clarified sugar.

To preserve Cherries without Stones.

For a pound of cherries prepare a pound of sugar boiled to the degree called blown, into which put the cherries stoned, and having boiled them well, set them by till the next day. Having then strained the syrup, add some sugar and about three pints of currant juice to it, let it boil about half an hour, put in the cherries, boil all together, skim well, and afterwards set by for use.

To preserve Cherries with Stones.

Having selected the finest morello fruit, and pricked each cherry with a needle; put them into a thin clarified sugar, and let them simmer an hour, or more, cautiously avoiding their coming to a boil. Proceed thus for two or three days; then strain the sugar from them, and having added more sugar with some currant juice, after a gentle boil and being well skimmed, set them by for use.

To preserve White Pea Plums.

Select your plums before they are too ripe, slit each of them in the seam, scald them in clear water till they become tender, then put them into cold water, in which having remained a whole night, drain, put them into sugar boiled to the degree called pearled, and having simmered therein twice or thrice a day for two days, drain the syrup and boil it for an hour, adding to it about a quart of white currant juice. Then put in your plums, let all boil together, and when cold they will be fit for use.

To preserve yellow Plums commonly called yellow Margates.

Having made choice of your plums just before they become ripe, and prepared as much sugar to the degree called blown, as will handsomely cover them, put them in, and giving them a gentle boil, set them by till next day and give them another boil. The day following drain them, and having boiled the syrup to the degree called pearled, put in the plums, and let all boil together, when they will be fit for drying, or putting into pots.

N.B. You may scald and take the skins off the plums before you preserve them.

To preserve Damascenes.

Having pricked the intended quantity, put them into a preserving pan with as much sugar as will cover them; give them one good boil, take them off and let them stand a day; on the morrow, simmer them four or five times, and thus let them remain three or four days; then drain the syrup, and adding more sugar, boil it well, put in the damascenes, give all a good boil, skim well and set by for use.

To preserve Mogul, or large Egg Plums.

Having pricked your plums, put them into cold water with three or four handfulls of salt in it, and there letting them remain four days, scald them in clear water till they become tender; put them into a thin sugar, and give them a gentle boil. This done, put them by, and the next day let them simmer, and so proceed for five or six days, till you perceive the syrup becomes thick, when it will be proper to drain and add more sugar; boil till it is ropy, then you may put in your plums; give them a gentle boil and set by for use.

N.B. You must keep the plums under the syrup in your preserving pan by putting a piece of board over them.

To preserve whole Strawberries.

Prepare as much sugar as will cover the intended quantity to the degree called blown, into which put the strawberries; gently boil and set them by; the next day drain them and boil the syrup till it becomes ropy or pearled, then put in the strawberries, give them a gentle boil, skim them well, and put them into pots.

N.B. Rasberries are preserved in the same manner; but it is recommended to put some jelly drawn from gooseberries, or white currants, into the syrup.

To preserve Barberries in Bunches.

Having prepared a sufficient quantity of sugar to the degree called blown, put in the barberries tied in small bunches, let them boil well, then skim, and set them by for use.

To preserve Red Currants in Bunches.

Prepare as much sugar to the degree called pearled, as will cover them, into which put them, and give them a gentle boil: then next drain them, and adding a little more sugar, and some juice extracted from red currants, give the whole a good boil; skim them well, and they will be fit for use.

N.B. White currants are preserved in the same manner, adding only white currant juice to the syrup.

To preserve Green Gage Plums.

First prick your plums well with a needle, and having laid them in salt and water, for eight and forty hours, scald them in pump water till they become tender, after which put them in cold water, and there let them remain till they are cool; then drain and pack them in single layers in your preserving pan; and give them a gentle heat once a day, for three days; this done, drain them, add some more sugar boiled to the degree of what is called pearled; then put them in and give them a heat, but not so far as to boil: proceed in this manner for two or three days, till you perceive the syrup becomes thick, then drain them, strain the syrup, boil it to a good height, put in your plums, give the whole a gentle boil, set them by in pans, and they are ready for drying out or putting into jelly.

To preserve Green Orange Plums.

The manner is the same as that prescribed with respect to the green gages: but care must be taken to cover these plums with a paper every time they are heated, as an effectual means of keeping in the steam and preserving the green hue: the same method should be observed as to green fruit in general.

To preserve Apricots.

Having taken the stones out, and cut your fruit in halves, scald them till they are tender, and put them into cold water: then drain, put them into a thin sugar, give them a gentle heat and set them by: the next day, drain the syrup from them, let it boil well and afterwards put in the fruit: let the whole simmer well together; and thus proceed from day to day, till the apricots are duly prepared, which may be known from the consistence of the syrup.

N.B. The Roman apricot is the best to preserve, and the orange apricot the best for jam.

To preserve Green Apricots.

Take the fruit when you can thrust a pin through the stone: prick them, and scald them till they are tender; then having drained, and put them into a thin syrup, let them simmer for half an hour every day, for a week: this done, drain them, boil some sugar to the degree called blown, to which add the syrup, and boiling it well, put in the fruit; let all boil together and set by. The next day, drain it, boil the syrup higher, put in the fruit, and boil till you perceive the syrup hang like a thread from the skimmer: the fruit are then fit for drying, or putting in jelly.

N.B. Green almonds are preserved in the same manner; but they should be scalded in soft water to take the down off.

To preserve Green Gooseberries.

Let the gooseberries be gathered before they are ripe, and scalded till they become yellow: then put them into cold water, and having remained twelve hours, put them into a very thin sugar, and heat them gently over the fire, till you perceive they begin to be green; after which drain the syrup from them, and boil it to the degree called pearled: put in your fruit, and having boiled all together, set by. Proceed in this manner for two, or three days, and the gooseberries will be fit for use.

To preserve Angelica.

Take the angelica when young, split it into thin strips, and having scalded it till it becomes very tender, string it, put it into the preserving pan and cover it with sugar; in this state give it a gentle heat once a day, for four or five days, and when you perceive it become quite green, drain it and add some more sugar: having boiled it till it becomes ropy, put in your angelica and boil it up well; then put it by, and when it has lain in the syrup about five weeks, it will be fit to cand.

To preserve Apricot, or Peach Chips.

Pare the rind of the fruit into chips of the size of a shilling: to every pound of chips, allow a pound and a half of sugar, in which boil the chips; and having set them by for two days, drain them from the syrup, and boil it to the degree called blown; then put in the chips, let them boil well, and having set them by for a week, drain and wash them in cold water, and put them in sieves into the store, first sifting some sugar on them, and dry them well.

To preserve Figs.

Having pricked your figs through and through, put them into the preserving pan, cover them with sugar, give them a gentle boil, and set them by. The next day drain them, and having boiled the syrup, put in the figs and set them by for two days: then drain them, add more sugar to the syrup, and having boiled it to a high degree, put in the figs, and let the whole boil up well together; proceed in this manner every other day for a week, by which time the sugar will have penetrated into the fruit: then drain them, and boil the syrup till it ropes, or hangs in strings from the skimmer: put in the figs, boil well up, skim and set them by for use.

To preserve dried Cherries.

Stone the Kentish cherries, and put as much sugar into the preserving pan, as will cover them: having boiled the sugar till it cracks, put in the cherries, give them a good boil, skim, and set them by in an earthen pan till next day: then drain, and put them on sieves in a hot stove, and turn them; they will take three days drying, and when dry, will keep two or three years.

To preserve Peaches whole.

Take the Newington peaches before they are ripe, scald them till they are tender, put them into as much sugar as will cover them, give them a gentle boil, and set them by till the next day: then drain them from the syrup, which having boiled with an additional quantity of sugar to the degree called blown, put in the peaches, and after simmering set them by for a week; then drain the syrup from them, and boiling it higher than before, put in the peaches, and let all boil gently together for an hour, by which time, if you find the sugar has penetrated the fruit, you may skim and set them by for use.

To preserve Pine Apple Chips.

Having taken off the outside of the pine apple; cut it cross-ways into thin slices, which put in layers into an earthen pan, sifting sugar over each layer, let all stand for about ten days, in which time, if melted, put it together into a preserving pan, and boil it up twice a day for three days, and set them by for drying.

To preserve Pine Apples whole.

Take the pine apple just before it becomes ripe, let the top remain on it. Having perforated it with a penknife, scald it till it becomes so tender, that a straw may be thrust through it. Let it then remain in cold water two hours, and in that state be put into a jar, with sugar strewed over it, boiled to the degree called smooth, and covered close down: the next day drain the syrup and boil it up, and in this manner proceed every day, till the water is extracted from the pine. As the syrup by that means will be rendered thin, you will add more sugar and boil it up to a high degree, and set the pine by for a fortnight, when if you perceive the syrup is thick, you may depend upon it the pine is properly preserved, and therefore may take it out of that syrup and put it into a clarified syrup in a glass, in which it will keep good seven years, if unaffected by damp or wet.

To preserve Medlars.

Having scalded the fruit till the skins are easily taken off; stone them at the head, cover them with sugar, give them a gentle boil, and let them stand for two days: then drain them, and boiling the syrup till it becomes ropy, put in the medlars, let all boil up gently, and set by for use.

To preserve Pears.

Prick the pears through in six places, scald them till they are tender, cut the rind smoothly off, put them into cold water with some allum in it to keep them white, and having remained in that state three hours, shift them into a thin sugar, and give them a gentle heat every day for three or four days; then drain them; and having added some sugar to the syrup, and boiled it to the degree called pearled, put in the pears, and boil all up together: proceed in this manner, till the syrup becomes thick, then colour some of the pears red, and set them by.

To preserve Green Leaves.

Take grape leaves, strawberry leaves, or any other leaves: let them remain four hours in cold spring water, then take them out and put them into some sugar, give them a gentle boil, take them off, and set them by for use.

N.B. They are convenient for putting under fruit in plates.

To preserve Green Grapes.

Having selected the largest and best grapes before ripe, cut a small slit in each, and scald them; after remaining two days in the water they are scalded in, drain, put them into a thin sugar; give them a heat over a slow fire, and thus proceed for three days: then drain them, and adding to the syrup some sugar, boiled to the highest degree of what is called blown, put in the grapes, and let all boil up together; skim well, and set them by for use.

To preserve Wine Sour Plums.

These plums are the best species for preserving, on account of their tartness, and should be treated in the same manner as damascenes, only they will require from their size a longer time in preparation.

To preserve Green Limes.

Having scalded the limes till they are tender, and taken out the cores, put them into a thin sugar, and give them a gentle boil: then set them by and give them a gentle heat three times for three days, by which time they will become as green as grass: having boiled the syrup till it become ropy, put in the limes, boil up all together, and the fruit will be fit for use.

N.B. Green walnuts, or jerkins, may be treated in the same manner as limes; and quinces in halves and quarters, in the same manner as pears; as there are several species of plums, and pears, that will not preserve, we recommend the following experiments: put a few plums into a little clarified sugar, and give them a heat over a gentle fire: if they seem to melt in the sugar they will not preserve, if they remain firm they certainly will, provided you adhere to the rules laid down.

PART III.

METHODS OF MAKING MARMALADES, JAMS, PASTES, &c.

Rasberry Jam.

Rub your rasberries through a sieve to a pulp: then measure it with a pint ladle (which is exactly a pound) into your preserving pan: boil it well, and stir it all the time to keep it from burning: to a pound of pulp, allow three quarters of sugar; when it has boiled till it becomes tolerably stiff, put in the sugar sifted fine, and boil it up well for half an hour: then put it into pots.

Apricot Jam.

Boil your apricots to a pulp, then rub it through a sieve: to a pound of pulp, allow a pound of sugar and two ounces of bitter almonds pounded fine: dry the pulp well over the fire: then put in the sugar and almonds: boil all together for about an hour, and then it will be fit for use.

Peach Jam.

Proceed with this in the same manner as above, but allow one pound and a quarter of clarified sugar to a pound of pulp. Boil the sugar to the degree called blown, then put in the pulp, and boil it till it just drops off the skimmer.

N.B. You should be careful to keep stirring this, and all other jams, while they are boiling.

Pine Apple Jam.

Cut your pine apple into slices: cover it with powder sugar, and let it stand a fortnight; then pounding it in a mortar till it is fine, pulp it through a sieve; to a pound of pulp, allow half a pound of clarified sugar, boil the sugar to the degree called blown, and finish it in the same manner as peach jam.

Barberry Jam.

Put your barberries into the oven till they become thoroughly hot, then pass them through a sieve. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound and a quarter of sugar sifted fine. Boil the pulp till one half is consumed, then put in the sugar, mix it well, and put it into pots.

Currant Jam.

Take the currant pulp when you have strained the liquor from it for jelly. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound of sifted sugar. Boil the pulp well; then put in the sugar, and boil it all for about half an hour, and it will be fit for use.

N.B. The quicker your fire is for all red fruit, the better will be the colour.

Quince Marmalade.

Pare your quinces and cover them: then boil them till tender, and pulp them through a sieve, with half the quantity of apples boiled in the same manner. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound and a quarter of clarified sugar: boil the sugar to the degree called blown, then put in the pulp, and boil it all for about half an hour, then put it into pots.

Quince Paste.

The pulp being prepared in the manner abovementioned; allow a pound of sugar and boil it till it cracks: then put in the pulp, and having boiled it for a quarter of an hour, put it in pots, into the stove, and in about three or four hours you may turn them out; cut them into quarters, and dry them.

N.B. You must keep your stove in a temperate heat.

Orange Marmalade.

Boil the seville orange-peel till it is tender, and take the white from it; lay it in water all night, to take the bitterness off, then pound and pulp it through a sieve. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound of the best moist sugar; boil the pulp till it is near one half consumed, then put in the sugar; boil it all together for half an hour, and put it into pots.

Strawberry Jam.

This is made after the manner of the rasberry, except allowing to a pound of pulp, one pound of sugar. Be careful to boil it stiffer than any other jam.

Orange Paste.

Pulp your oranges with apple mixed with it. To a pound of pulp, allow a pound and a quarter of sugar: boil the sugar till it cracks; then put in the pulp, and boil it over a quick fire, stirring it all the time for about twenty minutes, then put it into tins made for the purpose, and dry them in the stove.

Pippin Paste Knots.

Boil your apples tender, and pulp them; to a pound of pulp, allowing a pound of sugar: boil it till it cracks, then put in the pulp, and boiling all together for ten minutes, run it on pewter plates, put it in the stove, and when dry, cut it into strips, make it up into knots, and dry them on sieves.

N.B. If you would colour them red, put in some prepared cochineal.

Scotch Marmalade.

When you make your orange marmalade, put a little by; then cut some orange-peel into fine strips, and giving them a boil in a little clarified sugar, mix them in the marmalade, and put them into pots.

Orgeat Paste.

Calcine a pound of Jordan almonds, and four ounces of bitter almonds, with water, and a little orange flower water: boil a pound and an half of clarified sugar to the degree called blown, then put in your almonds, boil all together for a quarter of an hour, and put it into pots.

Almond Paste.

To a pound of almonds calcined, allow two pounds of sugar sifted fine; pound the almonds with a little orange flower and rose water; put the paste into a preserving pan, dry it on the fire till it becomes stiff; put in the sugar and stir it till you perceive it will not stick to your finger; then put it on a marble, and roll it up in a lump for use.

Marshmallow Paste.

Take a pound and a half of gum arabic, a pound of fine sugar, and six ounces of marshmallow root; pound the gum and sugar very fine, and put them into your preserving pan with half a pint of orange flower water and rose water mixed: then boil your marshmallow-root in a quart of water, drain the liquor, and put that to it: set it on a slow fire, and stir it till it becomes in some degree stiff, then put in the whites of twelve eggs, and stirring it till it becomes quite stiff, turn it out on a marble stone, and, when cold, cut it into square pieces, and put them in boxes.

Strasbourgh Paste, or Lozenges.

Boil a pound of clarified sugar, and two ounces of honey to a carmel height; then pour it on a marble stone, and before it becomes cold mark it in squares, and when cold break it in pieces, and keep it in boxes secure from damp.

Black Currant Paste.

Boil your black currants to a pulp. To a pound of pulp, allow half a pound of apple pulp: dry that on a slow fire, then put in a pound of sugar boiled to a crack, mix it well, then run it on pewter plates, put it in the stove, and when dry, cut it in small square pieces, and dry them.

PART IV.

OF SYRUPS, JELLIES, CANDIES, &c.

To make Capillaire.

Take twelve pints of clarified sugar; to which add one pint of good orange flower water, and the juice of eight good lemons; set it on a slow fire, and put in a pint of water with the whites of four eggs whisked: let it boil, and skim all the scum that rises, then strain it through a lawn sieve, or flannel bag, and put it into bottles.

To make Orgeat Syrup.

Calcine a pound of blanched Jordan almonds, and a few bitter ones, mixed with a little orange flower water; then put in two quarts of water, strain all through a fine lawn sieve, or cloth; put what is strained into seven pints of sugar, boiled to the degree called cracked. Let it simmer for ten minutes, skim it well, and when cold put it in bottles.

To make Lemon Syrup.

Boil six pints of sugar, to the degree called blown, add the juice of twenty good lemons and the rind of two; clarify in the same manner as the capillaire.

N.B. Orange syrup is made in the same manner, except in allowing to six oranges the juice of two lemons.

Currant Syrup.

Mash your currants, and let them be all night over a sieve to drain; strain the liquor through a flannel bag; to a pint of liquor, put a pound and a half of sugar: boil the sugar to the degree called blown, then put the liquor in, and boil all till the scum is entirely off, and put it into bottles.

Damascene syrup is made in the same manner.

Marshmallow Syrup.

Take one pound of marshmallow root, and put to it a gallon of water; reduce it on a slow fire to three pints, then strain it, and put it into a preserving pan, with seven pints of sugar, and three pints of clear water; clarify in the same manner as capillaire.

To make Rasberry Vinegar.

Extract a liquor from the rasberries, in the same manner as from currants: to a pint of liquor, add two pounds of clarified sugar, and a pint of the best white wine vinegar: boil all over a slow fire till the scum is taken off, and, when cold, put it in bottles.

To make Grape Essence, or Syrup.

To half a pound of good dry elder flowers, put three quarts of boiling water; let it stand close covered two hours; then strain it through a lawn sieve, and put to it the juice of twelve good lemons; boil ten pints of sugar to the degree called blown; put in the liquor, and boil till the scum is entirely off; then strain it through a lawn sieve, and put it into bottles.

To make Orange Essence.

Grate half a hundred of oranges, and put into your preserving pan, add ten pounds of sugar, and the juice of the oranges with the juice of twelve lemons. Boil all till it becomes tolerably thick, then put it in a stone jar for use.

N.B. You will find this exceedingly useful in making of ice in the summer time, when oranges are not to be had.

Pine Apple Syrup, or Essence.

Drain the syrup from the chips, and clarify in the same manner as you would a pan of sugar; put in the juice of a few lemons.

To make Currant Jelly.

Your currants being mashed on the fire, put them on a sieve all night to drain; then strain the liquor through a flannel bag: to a pint of liquor, allow three quarters of sugar; boil the sugar to the degree called crackled, then put in the liquor, and boil all till it jellies, which you may know by its hanging in flakes from the skimmer: be careful to skim it well.

N.B. If your jelly is for glasses, use half white currants and half red, and it will not look of too dark a colour.

Apple jelly, rasberry jelly, or jelly from any other fruit, may be made in a similar manner.

To Candy Eringo Root.

Take the roots pared and boiled to a proper softness, and put them into some sugar boiled smooth; then simmer them three times a day for three days; let them lay a month in the syrup, and when you cand them, boil some sugar to the degree called blown, and put them into it; let them remain about five minutes, and grain the sugar by rubbing it up the sides of the pan, then take them out, and lay them on sieves in a gentle stove.

To Cand Orange, or Lemon Peel.

Boil your peel tender, and take out the inside pith; lay them in cold water for a whole night, to take the bitterness off; pack them one within the other, in your preserving pan, cover them with clarified sugar, and let them boil gently for two hours every day for a week, then take them out and pack them in a jar, or cask; put more sugar to the syrup, boil it to a good height, pour it over the peels, and let them remain full a month; then drain the syrup from them, three or four different times, and they will be fit to cand, which you may do as follows:

Take them out of the syrup, and wash them in warm water; dry them in the stove, and put them into as much sugar, boiled to the degree called blown, as will cover them: boil them in the sugar to the same degree; then grain the sugar, take the peels out immediately, put them on a wire sieve, and when cold, they are fit for use.

Candied citron, orange, and lemon chips, are prepared exactly in the same manner.

Black Currant Jelly.

Mash your black currants on the fire and pulp them; to a pound of pulp, allow a pound of sugar; boil the sugar till it cracks, then put in the pulp, and boil all till it begins to jelly.

To make a Comport of Pippins.

Pare your pippins neatly, then take the cores out right down the middle, after that, scald your pippins till tender, put then into clarified sugar with a few cloves, a little mace, and the rind of a lemon, with the juice of four: let them simmer very gently for two hours, and when cold; they are fit to serve up to table.

Pears are done in the same manner, and you may colour them, as you do preserved quinces.

Comport of Oranges.

Carve your oranges neatly, cut them into eight parts, scald them tender, put them into clarified sugar with the juice of three or four oranges, let them simmer gently for two hours, then add half a pint of mountain wine, and when cold serve them up to table.

To make Clear Cakes of the Jelly of any Fruit.

To half a pint of jelly, allow six ounces of sugar to a high degree of blown, then put in the jelly, and let it simmer but not boil; skim it well, put it into pots, and dry it in the same manner as quince paste.

Calves-Foot Jelly.

Take two calves-feet ready cleaned, put to them six quarts of water; boil it on the fire till it is reduced to three, then strain, and put to it the juice of twelve lemons, the whites of eight eggs, a little cinnamon, a few corianders, and a little sugar; whisk all together, set it on the fire, and let it boil with half a pint of mountain in it, then strain it three times through a jelly bag, and put it in glasses.

Clear Orange Jelly.

Rasp the rind of your oranges, and squeezing six or eight oranges, and the juice of three lemons with four ounces of isinglass, whisk the whites of five eggs among it, and let it boil, then strain it through a lawn sieve, put it into moulds; allow to this quantity, six ounces of sugar.

Blanch Mange.

Pound four ounces of almonds with a few bitter ones, and a little orange flower water, fine; mix them in a pint of cream, and half a pint of milk, put in six ounces of isinglass, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; boil all together till the isinglass is consumed, then strain, and put it into moulds.

Ge Mange.

Squeeze the juice of six oranges, and rasp the rinds of two, put it into a pint and a half of cream, with a little sugar, add to that about four ounces of isinglass; boil it till it is dissolved, put in a little saffron as it is boiling, and set it by in moulds.

To make Lemonade.

To half a pint of clarified sugar, put the juice of five lemons, and rasp the rind of one, add to this a pint of spring water, then pass it through a lawn sieve, and set it by for use.

To make Orgeat for present Use.

Pound four ounces of blanched almonds very fine, with a few bitter ones, and a little water, mix with that a quart of clear spring water, and a table spoonful of orange flower water: sweeten to your palate, and strain it through a lawn sieve for use.

To make Orangeade.

To half a pint of sugar, put the juice of five oranges and two lemons: rasp the rind of one orange, add a pint of clear water, and strain it off for use.

To make Orange Prawlins.

Quarter your oranges, take the white out of the rind; cut them into thin strips, put them into your preserving pan, with just sufficient sugar to cover the bottom of the pan: let them boil till you perceive the sugar becomes thick, then take them off and stir them till the sugar grains and sticks to them. Lift the loose sugar from them, and set them by for use.

N.B. Lemon prawlins and orange flowers are prepared exactly in the same manner.

Red Burnt Almonds.

Take a pound of the best Jordan almonds, put them into a round bottom preserving pan, with a pint of clarified sugar, let it boil till the sugar comes to the degree called blown, and the almonds begin to crack: then take them off, and stir till they begin to cool; when the almonds clog to the sugar; lift the loose sugar from them, put in a pint of clarified sugar with the loose sugar, and boil it till it cracks; then put in the almonds, and stir them as before: sift them and part those that are coupled, boil a pint more of clarified sugar till it cracks, put in the almonds, and stir them till the sugar clings round them; then, put in a gill of cochineal, and shake them over the fire till they become dry: sift them, and put them in a gentle stove for two or three hours.

Brown burnt almonds are prepared in a similar manner.

Cedraty Essence.

Weigh a pound of cedraty essence, boil seven pints of clarified sugar to the degree called blown, then put in the essence, and the juice of twenty lemons: boil all together for about half an hour; skim it well, and when cold, put it into bottles.

To make a Conserve of Hips.

Take two pounds of hips, stone them and lay them a whole night in spring water; then pound them to a mash, and put them into three pints of clarified sugar, boiled to the degree called blown: give all together a good boil, and set them by for use.

Conserve of Roses.

Take a quarter of a pound of damask rose leaves, beat up a pound of coarse sifted sugar, with the whites of three eggs, put in the rose leaves, and mix them; then roll them up in small balls on paper, and set them in the stove to dry.

N.B. You may put in a little cochineal to colour it.

Conserve of Orange Flowers.

Boil a pint of sugar to a high degree, put in a quarter of a pound of orange flowers; boil it to the same degree again, then rub the sugar till it grains; pour it immediately on a marble stone, and when cold, break it into pieces.

Rock Candy.

Take different shapes, cut out of gum paste, or you must candy pippin paste knots; let them be very dry, then put them in a square tin box in layers, with a wire between each layer; fill the tin up with sugar, boiled to a strong degree; set it in the hot stove; the next day, drain it, take them out and put them on sieves in the stove to dry.

N.B. In this manner you may candy violets, or any other flower; but be careful they are very dry, else they will not take the sugar.

To make Gum Paste.

Take some gum tragant, and soak it in water, then squeeze it through a cloth, put it into the mortar, and pound it with fine sugar, sifted fine; then take it out, and mix it up with sugar till it becomes stiff.

Mulberry Syrup.

Squeeze your mulberries: to a pint of fruit, put a pound of sugar; let it dissolve all night, then boil it up to a good height, with the juice of four lemons; skim it well, and put it in bottles for use.

PART V.

FRUITS IN BRANDY.

Cherries in Brandy.

Put your cherries into jars, and to a quart of French brandy, allow half a pint of clarified sugar: mix your sugar and brandy, cover the cherries with it, let them stand a month, then fill the jars again, and cover them up for use.

N.B. The morello cherries are the most proper, and you may infuse rasberries, or mulberries, in the same manner.

Apricots in Brandy.

Take a pan and half, fill it with pump water, put in a little clarified sugar; then put in your apricots, and scald them till tender; put them into cold water with a piece of allum in it; let them lay in that state for two hours till quite cold; put them in jars, and cover them with white French brandy: to two quarts of brandy, allow three pints of clarified sugar.

Peaches in Brandy.

Wipe the down off your peaches, prick them with a small knife in three places, scald them in some water, with the juice of three or four lemons in it; then take them out, put them in jars, and cover them with white brandy: to two quarts of brandy, put three pints of clarified sugar.

Mogul Plums in Brandy.

Take your mogul plums when they are half preserved, drain them dry, put them in jars and cover them with brandy. To a quart of brandy, allow half a pint of clarified sugar.

Green Gages in Brandy.

These are prepared in the same manner as any green plum.

Pears in Brandy.

Scald your pears tender, with some lemon juice in the water: put them into cold water and pare the rind off; lay them in allum and water all night, to keep them white; then drain and put them into jars: to a quart of brandy, allow a pint of clarified sugar.

PART VI.

METHODS OF MAKING BISCUITS AND CAKES.

It is here necessary to premise that particular care must be taken to keep the utensils entirely free from grease of any kind: and the flour and sugar quite dry, as in case of neglect you cannot make good biscuits.

Savoy Biscuits.

Take one pound and a half of sugar, one pound and two ounces of flour, and twenty four eggs: separate the yolks from the whites, beat the yolks and sugar together with a spoon: whisk the whites up stiff, and mix with the yolks; whisk it all on a slow fire till warm, then take it off and whisk it till cold; mix in the flour, and drop them through a funnel made for the purpose.

N.B. They require a hot oven, and you should sift a little sugar over them, just before you put them in.

Spunge Biscuits.

Take one pound of sugar, and three quarters of flour, and mix in the same manner as the savoy biscuits: these will not require so hot an oven as the former.

Palace Royal Biscuits.

Are made in the same manner as savoy biscuits, and are baked in small paper boxes.

Royal Heart Biscuits.

To a pound of almonds beat fine, put a pound and a half of sugar, half a pound of flour, sixteen whole eggs, and twelve yolks. Beat the sugar and almonds up well by degrees with the eggs; then put in the flour, and set it into moles, they will require a gentle oven.

Diet Bread Cakes.

Take one pound of moist sugar, one pound and a quarter of flour, and seven eggs: let your sugar boil with better than half a pint of water; then whisk your eggs and sugar up well: take it off, and whisk it till it is cold, then mix in your flour, and put it into moles.

Naple Biscuits.

Are made in the same manner as diet bread, but add a little more flour.

Orange Heart Biscuits.