Voyages of the Dutch brig of war Dourga

THE
ARAFŪRA SEA,
by
George Windsor Earl.

VOYAGES

OF THE

DUTCH BRIG OF WAR

DOURGA,

THROUGH THE

SOUTHERN AND LITTLE-KNOWN PARTS

OF THE

MOLUCCAN ARCHIPELAGO,

AND ALONG THE

PREVIOUSLY UNKNOWN SOUTHERN COAST

OF

NEW GUINEA,

PERFORMED

DURING THE YEARS 1825 & 1826.

BY

D.H. KOLFF, Jun.

LUITENANT TER ZEE, 1^e KLASSE, EN RIDDER VAN DE MILITAIRE WILLEMS ORDE.

TRANSLATED FROM THE DUTCH

By GEORGE WINDSOR EARL,

AUTHOR OF THE "EASTERN SEAS."

LONDON:
JAMES MADDEN & CO., LEADENHALL STREET,
LATE PARBURY & Co.

1840.

LONDON:

EDWARD BREWSTER, PRINTER,

HAND COURT, DOWGATE.

AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

A plain preface will be best adapted for a simple narrative of events that occurred and observations made during Voyages through important countries, with a portion of which we were previously unacquainted, while the remainder have been but rarely visited. I was repeatedly requested by relatives and friends, both in India and in the Mother Country, to communicate these to the Public, as being information that would be deemed useful and important, not only by Government and Naval officers, but by every inquiring Netherlander. This encouragement induced me, who, being a seaman, cannot aspire to literary renown, to employ my leisure hours in compiling the following unadorned narrative of my voyages through the Southern parts of the Archipelago of the Moluccas, and along the South-west coast of New Guinea.

If the hopes I have cherished as to the importance of the information here given be not without ground, I trust that I shall not demand in vain the indulgence of my honoured Readers, which I am sure will be readily granted when it is taken into consideration, that the continued fatigues I endured, not only while engaged in performing the voyages here described, but also while employed in the expedition against Celebes in 1824, have undermined and broken my constitution. The confidence with which the Government honoured me by entrusting to me the execution of these voyages of examination, was certainly a spur which incited me to overcome all difficulties, and to make myself as useful as possible to my country.

With the assistance of my officers and of intelligent natives, I was fortunately enabled to collect accurate details concerning numerous islands and coasts, which I subsequently laid down in a chart, and forwarded it to the Government, a correct copy of which, on a smaller scale, I offer to my reader, as an illustration to the narrative.

If I have succeeded in effecting the object for which this volume is offered to the Public, I shall consider the time and trouble bestowed upon its compilation as being richly rewarded.

D.H. KOLFF, Jun.

November, 1838.

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

The numerous islands lying between the Moluccas and the northern coasts of Australia, have hitherto been very little known to the world; indeed, we cannot discover that any account of them has yet been made public, with the exception of some observations in Valentyn's "Oude en Nieuw Oost Indien," a work published in Holland more than a century ago:—we are, therefore, induced to offer a few particulars concerning their early history, as an introduction to M. Kolff's narrative.

We cannot discover that these islands were ever visited by Europeans previous to 1636, in which year Pieter Pieterson, a Dutch navigator, touched at the Arru Islands during his voyage to examine the northern coasts of Australia, which had been discovered thirty years previously by a small Dutch vessel, called the Duyfken. Six years subsequently the Arru group was again visited by F. Corsten, when several of the native chiefs were induced to acknowledge the supremacy of the Dutch East India Company, binding themselves to trade with no other Europeans, and investing them with the monopoly of the pearl banks, the produce of which the Dutch conveyed to Japan, and there found a ready market and a lucrative return. Transactions, with similar views, subsequently took place at the adjacent islands, on which small bodies of troops were placed, to whose control the simple natives willingly submitted, and viewed with indifference the destruction of the spice trees, which were vigorously sought for and up-rooted by the new comers.

As it was the object of the Dutch to restrict the trade in spices within narrow limits, in order to enhance the value of this commodity, of which they enjoyed the monopoly, the East India Company did not permit even their own countrymen to carry on a commercial intercourse with these islands; indeed, the only advantages the Company derived from their possession, consisted in their affording slaves to cultivate the clove and nutmeg plantations of Banda and Amboyna, the only settlements in which they allowed spices to be grown. Notwithstanding these restrictions, an extensive contraband trade was carried on with the islands; for the Europeans who were, from time to time, encouraged by the Company to settle in the Moluccas as planters, although receiving bounties in the shape of free grants of land, with advances of slaves and provisions on credit and at original cost, under the sole condition that they should supply the Company with the produce at a fixed price, soon abandoned their plantations, and embarked in the more exciting and lucrative trade with the islands to the southward, sending confidential slaves in charge of their prahus.[1] It is recorded, that many individuals collected enormous fortunes by this traffic, which, indeed, was nearly all profit, as the goods sent there were of very small value. The trepang fishery, now the principal source of wealth to these islands, then scarcely existed, and the return cargoes of the prahus consisted chiefly of less bulky articles, such as amber, pearls, tortoise-shell and birds-of-paradise.

Towards the close of the last century, when the rigorous monopoly of the Dutch had induced other natives to produce spices, which were cultivated with success by the French in the Isle of Bourbon, and by the English on the west coast of Sumatra, the Moluccas began to decline in importance, and with a view to reduce government expenditure, the Dutch withdrew their military establishments from the islands to the southward. The Bughis, an enterprising people from the southern part of the island of Celebes, and Chinese merchants from Java and Macassar, immediately engrossed the trade with the islands:—the wars which broke out in Europe about this time affording them great encouragement, since the Dutch, sufficiently occupied in maintaining their more important possession, could offer little interruption. The British, during their short occupation of the Moluccas, were so exclusively occupied by the immediate affairs of newly-acquired settlements, that the countries beyond their limits were, in a great measure, neglected; indeed, the inhabitants of some of the more remote islands were not aware that the Moluccas had changed masters; the Dutch flags left among them many years previously, being still hoisted on festive occasions.

When Java and its dependencies were restored to Dutch dominion after the peace of 1814, their East India Company had ceased to exist; the Government, however, continued to monopolize the traffic with the Moluccas. The Chinese merchants of Java and Macassar had, by this time, embarked largely in the trade with the Arru and Serwatty Islands; several brigs and large prahus, manned with Javanese, but having Chinese supercargoes, annually resorting to them from Sourabaya, and the other commercial ports to the westward.

Christianity, the seeds of which had been sown by the Dutch during their occupation of the islands, also began to spread among the inhabitants, and the native Amboynese teachers, who established themselves in some of the chief villages, were encouraged rather than molested by the Bughis and Chinese traders, these perceiving that their interests would be promoted by any advance the natives might make in civilization. The Bughis, unlike the Malayan and Ceramese Mohammedans, care little about making proselytes; neither do the Chinese feel much inclination to obtain converts to their half atheistical creed, which they themselves seem disposed to ridicule.

The founding of Singapore by Sir Stamford Raffles, in the year 1819, forms an important era in the history of the Indian Archipelago. The liberality of the institutions adopted there gave an impulse to commerce and civilization throughout the Eastern Seas, and even the most distant and barbarous tribes have not been excluded from participation in the general improvement. Among the first to avail themselves of this new state of affairs, were the enterprising Bughis tribes of Celebes, who flocked to Singapore by thousands, delighted at the favourable opportunity offered them for disposing of their produce to Europeans and Chinese merchants, without being subjected to extortionate imposts, or the annoyances of custom-house officers, which had hitherto checked their enterprize.

The islands in the eastern part of the Archipelago were, however, too distant from this emporium for the natives to partake of the benefits it offered, in an equal degree with those of the countries more adjacent. The greater portion of the produce afforded by the Arru and neighbouring islands, was collected and brought by the Bughis to Celebes, where it was re-shipped for Singapore; at least twelve months being required to send the goods to market and receive the returns.

It was chiefly to establish an intercourse with the natives of these parts, by presenting to them a more convenient mart for their produce, that a British settlement was formed on Melville Island, near the coast of Australia, in 1824, by Captain, now, Sir J.J. Gordon Bremer, and if this, and the settlement subsequently formed at Raffles Bay, proved unsuccessful, it is more to be attributed to our want of information concerning these islands than to any other cause. Two small vessels successively were sent among them by the authorities of Melville Island, neither of which returned. It will be seen by M. Kolff's narrative, that, unhappily, both these vessels directed their course to parts previously unvisited by foreigners, and that the natives, unable to resist the temptation of acquiring more valuable property than they had ever before contemplated, attacked and plundered them, killing the greater portion of their crews. Had they visited the parts of these islands which were frequented by the traders, they might have done so with comparative safety, as the natives there would have been too well aware of the value of commerce to risk the danger of putting a stop to it by an action likely to draw upon them the vengeance of a powerful people.

From M. Kolff's voyage having been undertaken so soon after our occupation of Melville Island, there is some reason to believe, that the formation of that settlement had considerable influence in inducing the Dutch Government suddenly to take a deep interest in the islands adjacent to it, which had been almost totally neglected for half a century previously. Whether this voyage was beneficial or otherwise to the British interest in that quarter the reader will be able to judge from the work itself, but, at all events, we have to thank M. Kolff for information which cannot but be valuable, now that we are about to found another settlement in that part of the world; H.M. ships Alligator and Britomart, again under the command of Sir Gordon Bremer, being on their voyage to the northern coast of Australia for the purpose. The arrangement of the work for publication has afforded the Translator occupation and amusement during a long voyage, and he trusts it may be the means of conveying useful information concerning a simple and industrious people, occupying a number of richly productive islands, in the immediate vicinity of a continent which may be considered a vast British colony, and with whom his countrymen may open an intercourse likely to prove advantageous to both parties.

H.M. Ship Alligator,
Sydney.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Si quelque habitans de Banda avaient acquis des richesses, ils ne les avaient nullement à l'industrie agricole, mais à la contrabande et au commerce avec les îles d'Arauw (Arru), ou ils envoyaeint des embarcations dirigées par les esclaves qu'on leur avait procurés pour l'entretien des pares (spice plantations). Quelques individus ont fait de cette manière une immense fortune.—Count de Hogendorp's "Coup-d'œil sur l'Isle de Java," p. 333.

CONTENTS.

THE
INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO.
1837.

VOYAGES

OF THE

DUTCH BRIG DOURGA,

&c. &c.

CHAPTER I.

EXPEDITIONS IN THE MOLUCCA AND JAVA SEAS.

Outward Voyage.—Tristan D'Acunha.—English Settlement.—Expedition in the Molucca Seas.—Voyage to Palembang and Banka.—Fidelity of Javanese Seamen.—Expedition to Macassar.—Particulars concerning the Macassar War.

As an introduction to the narrative, I will communicate to the reader a short account of my outward voyage to India, and of the various expeditions in which I was engaged previous to undertaking the voyage to the eastern parts of the Indian Archipelago, which forms the subject of this volume.

In January 1817, I was appointed by the Minister of Marine to the corvette Venus, Commander B.W.A. Van Schuler, then lying in the Niewe Diep, ready for sea on a voyage to Batavia. On the 28th of the same month we sailed, under a salute of the guns, and having sent away the pilot with parting letters to our friends, we stood out to sea, the shores of our beloved country soon fading from view.

Remarkable events seldom occurring during the outward voyage, a few words will suffice to give an account of our proceedings. In the month of April we arrived off Tristan D'Acunha, and having espied a number of huts on the shores of a bay on the north side of the island, we stood towards them, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms, tolerably close to the land. When viewed from a distance the island has the appearance of a single high mountain, the sides rising abruptly out of the sea. The bay in which we anchored lies open to the sea, and therefore can afford no shelter to vessels. Its shores were steep and lined with alternate patches of sand and rock, against which the sea beat with great violence. The snow-white foam of the surf, glittering in the sun-beams, contrasted strikingly with the soft green of the uplands; the charming prospect this afforded being embellished by a beautiful waterfall tumbling into the sea from the hills above.

The English establishment, which had been fixed here a short time previous to our visit, consisted of seventy-four men, with their wives, under the command of Major Kloete, the settlement being a dependance of the Cape of Good Hope. It had already made great progress, agriculture being carefully attended to; and among other vegetables we were delighted to find an abundance of excellent potatoes. The industrious and orderly habits of these settlers, coupled with their civility towards strangers, of which we had evidence in the friendly reception we met with, entitled them to every praise. This settlement, however, now no longer exists.

After our departure from Tristan D'Acunha we encountered a severe gale, in which we lost two topmasts, the foremast and bowsprit. Lieutenant Vendoren with seven seamen also fell overboard, and the former only was saved. On the 29th of June we arrived at Batavia, and after a short stay there, departed for the populous town of Sourabaya to refit our damaged vessel.

The first expedition in which we were engaged was directed against Ceram and Sapanua, where some serious disturbances had taken place. On the 22nd of February 1818 we obtained a decided victory over the Sultan Muda of Batjoli in the Moluccas, for which I believe, our commander, M. Van Schuler, was made Knight of the third class of the Military Order of William.

During the whole of the year 1818, we were employed in cruizing among the Molucca Islands, for the prevention of piracy and the contraband trade, especially the illegal sale of gunpowder to the natives in a state of insurrection. The pirates sometimes behave with great boldness, deriving confidence from the rapidity with which their light vessels can escape into the numerous creeks; the oars which they use when the wind is contrary giving them great advantages in point of swiftness over our cruizers. A couple of steam-boats, which would be able to follow them into their lurking places, would be very efficacious in ridding us of these plagues.

On the 12th of January 1819, the then Governor of the Moluccas, General De Kock, with his family, embarked on board the Venus for the purpose of being conveyed to Java. We sailed on the following day, and did not reach Batavia until the 4th of May following. During this tedious passage, a beautiful collection of the birds of the Moluccas, the property of the General, died from want of food. Salt meat and biscuit formed our sole diet during the greater part of the voyage, and it is surprising that with such provisions, we did not have considerable sickness on board.

We now proceeded to Sourabaya, being accompanied by Captain Stout, of the Colonial Marine, with several light vessels. When off the Taggal Mountain we encountered some piratical vessels, and having been several times employed with native seamen, speaking their language with tolerable fluency, I was placed in charge of a Korra-korra, and sent in chase. Captain Stout met with a sad accident on this occasion. A gun that had been fired by the Captain himself, perhaps from its being overloaded, recoiled so much that it burst through the bulwarks on the opposite side of the vessel and fell overboard, striking the Captain violently on the breast during its passage, and causing the almost immediate death of this brave seaman.

In the latter part of the year 1819, the Venus was placed in readiness to return to the mother country. Our joyful expectations, however, were soon disappointed, for the disturbances which had broken out at Palembang, rendered it necessary that the corvette should proceed there, to be in readiness to act against the Sultan Mohammed Badr-el-Din; and on the 4th of December we arrived in the roads of Minto, on the island of Banka, to await the time when our services would be required.

All prospects of a speedy return home were thus destroyed, but I consoled myself with the consideration that duty required the sacrifice, and that I could serve my country in these remote regions as well as in the Netherlands. Our foreign possessions, indeed, though far distant, are still provinces of the fatherland.

Actuated by these considerations, I willingly accepted the offer made to our junior officers to enter the Colonial Navy, and receive the command of a gun-boat armed with an 18-pounder, two 8-pounders, some swivels, and manned with thirty men, chiefly Javanese, the same rank being given me with that I held in the Royal Navy. I was now sent to the east coast of Banka, for the purpose of keeping the pirates in check, and of keeping open the communication with the tin mines. At first I was accompanied by the schooner Zeemeeuw, Lieutenant Alewyn, but this vessel was soon ordered on another station, and I remained here eight months, in daily contact with the pirates, without the assistance of other Europeans; this period forming by no means the most agreeable portion of my stay in India. I had often serious engagements with the famed Radin Allin, who, however, never was courageous enough to board the gun-boat. Had he done so, our only resource would have been to blow up our vessel, to prevent her falling into the hands of the pirates, as the great superiority of their force would have rendered it impossible to withstand them. This Radin Allin displayed great intrepidity on several occasions. Once, while I was conveying some vessels to Kaba, he took advantage of my absence to attack and carry the fort of Batu-Rusa, on the Marawang river. On my return I found him still in the river with a large number of prahus, where I blockaded him until the month of September 1820, when I at length received assistance from Minto, at a period when such relief had become of the greatest necessity, as I had often thought that my last hour had arrived. Of my crew, only a few natives remained, the others having either been killed or sent to the hospital.

During these hazardous expeditions I had frequent opportunities of witnessing the fidelity of the Javanese seamen in the hour of danger. Their behaviour and disposition prepossessed me very much in favour of the nation to which they belonged, and during my subsequent voyaging in India, where I considerably increased my acquaintance with them, I never had occasion to alter the favourable opinion I had formed. When a Javanese is treated with consideration, and is not subjected to tyrannical treatment, he is as much to be trusted as an European, and submits far more readily to control.

The force which came to my relief consisted of several vessels under the command of Lieutenant Colonel Keer, destined to act against the chiefs of the rebels, Radin Allin and Radin Kling, and I now obtained permission to return to Minto. In the beginning of 1821, I departed thence for Sourabaya, with the view of having the gun-boat repaired, as it was ordered to take part in the expedition which during that year re-established our authority at Palembang. The particulars of that renowned expedition being still fresh in the memory of my readers, I will give no circumstantial account of our proceedings, but I will relate a few occurrences in which I was personally engaged. After the first attack, when our fleet had retired to its former position, it was my good fortune to rescue Lieutenant Boerhave and his men, together with the crew of another gun-boat, both of which had fallen into the hands of the enemy; and on the following 24th of June, during the second assault, the gun-boat under my command opened the way through the strong barricade erected across the river to the attack of the great floating battery, on which I was the first to plant the Netherlands flag. As a token of particular approbation on the part of the Government for this deed, three of my small crew received the decoration of the military order of William.

After the termination of this renowned expedition, which ended in the entire conquest of the kingdom of Palembang, I received orders to accompany General De Kock to Batavia. In the month of August I was appointed to the schooner Calypso, which circumstance I only mention for the purpose of rendering a just tribute to the meritorious character of Lieutenant Sondervan her commander. In this vessel I passed the entire year 1822, making several voyages in her, circumnavigating Java, and visiting the mines of Sambas and Pontiana, in Borneo. M. Tobias, the commissioner for our establishments in Borneo, was on board the schooner the greater portion of the time. The agreeable society of this gentleman, coupled with the unbroken harmony that prevailed among us, rendered these voyages extremely pleasant, notwithstanding the hardships and fatigues we underwent. We made several journeys into the interior of Borneo, and inspected the mines of the Chinese, which are here very numerous. I will not particularise the voyages I subsequently undertook to Banka, Sumatra, and many other of our possessions, which I performed with pleasure, as they gave me many opportunities of gathering information concerning these countries and their native inhabitants.

Having thus passed a considerable time in India, without experiencing the lassitude of which Europeans in that part of the world so generally complain, I was appointed adjutant to my former chief, Captain Van Schuler, who had now become Commandant and Director of the Colonial Marine. Although I was much pleased by the honourable notice with which my brave chief favoured me, I soon became tired of an idle life at Batavia. I had been so long accustomed to the navigation of these seas, that I could not refrain from soliciting the Governor General, Van Der Capellen, to place me again in active service.

While performing a journey overland from Batavia to Sourabaya in company with Captain Van Schuler, I took the opportunity of visiting Bantjar, in the district of Rembang, where I saw the beautiful frigate Javaan, with several brigs and schooners, then in the course of construction for the Colonial Navy.[2] The command of one of these was promised to me on this occasion. I will pass over the description of this part of Java, as being unconnected with the object of the work. We met with few occurrences worthy of remark, for I do not consider our adventure in crossing the Sumadang Mountains, where our carriage was overturned, of sufficient importance to detain me in my narrative.

On my return to Batavia I was promoted to a Lieutenancy of the first class in the Colonial Marine, and at my urgent request was suffered to throw up my appointment as Adjutant, when I was invested with the command of H.M. Brig Dourga,[3] with orders to ship a crew, and fit her out in readiness to accompany the Governor General on his expedition to the Moluccas in 1824. So recently promoted, invested with a new command, and about to become a fellow-voyager with his Excellency, it will readily be conceived that my zeal was of the strongest, and that I exerted myself to the utmost to show myself worthy of the favours that had been conferred upon me.

After remaining a considerable time at Amboyna, a settlement distinguished by the courtesy and hospitality of its European inhabitants, we sailed for Banda in the train of the Governor General, (who was embarked in the frigate Eurydice), where we arrived on the 18th of April. The Gunung Api volcano was in a state of violent action at the time, filling the atmosphere with fire and smoke, the volumes of the latter being ejected with such force, that their collision caused constant vivid flashes of lightning, accompanied by a rumbling noise like that of thunder. This outbreak of nature was indescribably fine and majestic, and is memorable for having formed a new crater in the north-west side of the mountain. The town of Banda, remained, however, uninjured.

From Banda we sailed for Sapanua, an island well known from the war which took place there in 1817, and I subsequently proceeded to Menado and Macassar, where I took part in the expedition called forth by the war that had broken out in Celebes.

The mode of warfare which obtains among the Macassars, differs considerably from that adopted by the other natives of the Archipelago, than whom they are more wealthy and better armed, while at the same time they take the lead in cleverness and ferocity. When under their own chiefs, they are not remarkable for shewing that courage which is commonly ascribed to them, especially to the Bughis, this being displayed rather upon the sea than on land. They will rarely stand firm against the attacks of regular troops in the field, but fight well from ambuscades or from behind entrenchments. Their arms consist of very good guns, manufactured by themselves, with spears, krisses, klewangs and lelahs.[4] The chiefs and head warriors wear armour, made of plaited iron or copper wire, which they call baju-ranti or chain shirt: it will resist a thrust from the klewang or kriss, but affords no protection against a musket ball.

In the southern parts of Celebes, horses of a very good description are to be met with, which the natives manage with considerable skill. A cushion stuffed with cotton, and laid upon the animal's back, forms their saddle, on which they sit cross-legged, and with this simple contrivance their seat is so firm that they take bold leaps, and scour across the country in a manner truly surprising. When a chief is killed, his relatives and slaves do not care to survive, but a case of this sort rarely takes place, as the former usually remain on spots free from danger. The Bughis will carry their slain off the field of battle at every risk, and will submit to great loss rather than fail in this object. It is difficult, however, to draw them into making an assault en masse.

We anchored off the town of Macassar on the 5th of July, 1824, the king of the northern part of the state of which this is the capital, having by this time followed the example of the Bughis of Boni in rising against our government. On the 14th of the same month we sailed for Tannette, (a town on the west coast of Celebes,) with troops and munitions of war, our vessel forming part of a flotilla consisting of the brigs Sirene, Nautilus, Jacoba-Elizabeth, and Dourga, with the corvette Courier, two gun-boats, and some prahus with native auxiliaries; the naval force being under the orders of Commander Buys, while the troops were led by Lieutenant Colonel De Steurs. Having assembled before Tannette, we formed into line and cannonaded the enemy's fortification, while at the same time the troops were landed and some gained possession of the forts and villages, together with some strongholds farther up the country. The loss on our side was small, but the enemy suffered greatly in killed and wounded. After sustaining this defeat, the king retired into the interior, and refused to submit. On the 22nd, Colonel De Steurs departed with the troops towards Macassar, with the intention of chastising the treacherous inhabitants of Labakang and Pankalina, those towns lying in the route. The squadron followed their march along the coast, with the view of affording assistance should it be required. The number of reefs and banks render the navigation of the coast hazardous and difficult; but the fishermen of the islands piloted us through them with safety. During the passage our armed boats were constantly employed on the coasts, more for the purpose of checking the plundering propensities displayed by our native allies from Goa, than for the annoyance of the enemy. Plunder, indeed, seemed to be the chief object of these auxiliaries, for when they were required to fight, they either remained idle or took to their heels.

On the 24th we reached Macassar, the inhabitants of the intermediate coast having speedily been brought under subjection. The expedition had been fortunate and successful in every respect, and inspired us with so much confidence that we eagerly desired to be again led against the enemy.

An expedition consisting of 200 troops, under the command of Lieutenant-colonel Reder, was now set on foot to attack the Raja of Supa, the squadron being again employed in conveying them to their destination. On the 4th of August we anchored in the bay of Supa, and as the enemy obstinately refused to negociate, no other course remained for us than to land the troops, and prepare to carry into effect the orders of our Government. It immediately became apparent that the resources of the enemy had been incorrectly reported to us, and that more difficulty would be experienced in reducing the place than we had been led to believe would have been the case.

Supa, the capital, is extended near the shore on the north-east side of the bay, and is difficult of approach from seaward. The town, which lies low, is bounded on the south side by extensive rice fields, while to the south-west, in which direction the squadron lay, it is separated from the sea by a ridge of hills.

On the morning after our arrival, the troops, with detachments of seamen from the ships, were landed in good order under cover of the guns of the squadron. Our attack upon the well-fortified town of Supa was unsuccessful, the troops being driven back to the hills, of which, however, they maintained possession; the enemy returning into the town, with the exception of a number of horsemen, who remained at the foot of the hills, and some detachments which took up positions to the southward. Towards evening some mortars and brass six-pounders were landed, and placed in battery against the town. The firing was at first attended with little loss on either side, but the war-cries of the Bughis convinced us that they were assembled in great force.

Repeated attempts were now made to set fire to the strongholds of the enemy, but they were unsuccessful, and attended with considerable loss. The vessels employed in keeping up the communication with Macassar had by this time brought a number of native auxiliaries furnished by the king of Sidenreng, but these took up a position to the southward, and never emerged from their hiding places.

Information which was now received of our garrisons at Pankalina and Labakang, consisting of sixty men each, having been overpowered and massacred to a man, spread dismay and dejection among the troops, while, through the weak indulgence of our commandant, military discipline was often disregarded, and our operations consequently, were deficient in point of combination. A second general assault was not determined on until the men had been wearied by useless skirmishing. All the men that could be spared from the ships were now ordered on shore, and on this as on the previous occasion I served with them; the command of the left wing of the battery being entrusted to me, while the right was under the direction of Commander Buys.

At daylight on the 14th, after our batteries had for some time played with vigour on the town, Lieutenant-colonel Reder advanced to the attack with one hundred and fifty soldiers, one hundred seamen, and forty marines, whom the enemy allowed to approach close under the wall without firing a shot. Their cavalry had in the meantime been posted out of sight on the south side of the town, and when our troops had reached the walls, and commenced a sharp combat with those within, the cavalry fell upon them in flank, penetrated right through them, and even close up to our breast-works. The confusion created by this movement was so great, that notwithstanding the efforts of the officers the flight soon became general, and the disorder communicating itself to the reserve, the enemy were enabled to cause us considerable loss. The superior courage of Europeans soon, however, restored matters to order, for the fire of case-shot from our batteries checked the career of the enemy, and our troops having by this time rallied became the assailants in their turn, and drove the Bughis back to their batteries. Our advantage over the enemy was limited to this, so that our attack was attended with much bloodshed without being successful. We had to lament the loss of two brave officers, Lieutenants Van Pelt and Bannhoff, together with nearly one-third of the men engaged, six of my own crew being killed on this fatal occasion. During the engagement our auxiliaries remained in the positions they had taken up, and did not stir a foot to assist us.

On the evening after this occurrence we were joined by Mr. Tobias, the commissioner, Colonel De Steurs, and the Raja of Sidenreng, the latter bringing with him a number of native auxiliaries. The arrival of Colonel De Steurs gave great joy to our troops, this officer being universally beloved and esteemed, but of what avail was his presence now that the pith of our force had been expended in ill-directed attacks? The enemy occasionally made night attacks on our position, but were always driven back, our auxiliaries showing on these occasions more courage than usual, repeatedly pursuing their adversaries close up to their forts.

On the 22nd, the frigate Eurydice joined the squadron, when a portion of her crew, with two long eighteen-pounders and some Congreve rockets were landed; the latter, however, did not answer our expectations upon trial. Our endeavours to gain an advantage over the enemy were still unattended by success, and our leader, seeing our force daily diminished by useless skirmishes, determined on making another general attack. Every body that could be spared from the ships, natives as well as Europeans, were landed to join in the assault, the attacking force now amounting to three hundred men, exclusive of the auxiliaries, who could not be brought into motion. Our batteries had made several breaches in the enemy's breast-works, but these had always been repaired during the following night.

The general attack, which took place early in the morning, was conducted with much bravery. The road to the town was studded with sharp stakes, by which many of our people suffered severely. The enemy in the meantime remained within their entrenchments, protecting themselves from our shot by sitting in holes dug in the ground; and on our advancing up to them they fought with desperation, surrounding their wives and children, and determining to die to the last man rather than surrender. Our troops were sometimes engaged hand to hand with the enemy, who opposed our bayonets and swords with their krisses and klewangs. At length Colonel De Steurs, finding that many of our men, with a captain and a first lieutenant, had fallen, determined to draw off our small body of heroes, with the intention of renewing the attack with the reserve; but this was found impracticable, as the latter, which consisted only of a small number of seamen from the frigate, had already sustained considerable loss. The retreat was therefore sounded, and thus, for the fourth time, had our efforts proved unavailing. On this occasion, also, one-third of the attacking force was placed hors de combat. We were, nevertheless, convinced that had a correct report been given to the government of the force of the enemy, and had our proceedings been conducted with order and regularity, the victory must infallibly have been on our side. It is a consolation, however, to know, that although the enemy maintained their position, they experienced, in a forcible manner, the superiority of our courage; for notwithstanding the relaxation of discipline which at first prevailed, no one can deny that our men displayed much personal bravery. The expedition, although unsuccessful, had therefore the effect of inspiring the people of Supa with a dread of the Dutch arms. According to the account of trustworthy natives, their loss had been very great; indeed, their successes never gave them sufficient confidence to emerge from behind their entrenchments. We now endeavoured to reduce them by a close blockade, but in this we were also unsuccessful; and this object was not effected until six months afterwards, when General Geer appeared before the place with a force much greater than that employed on the previous occasion.

On the 6th of October, the squadron left Supa for Macassar, carrying away the troops, with the exception of one hundred men, who were left under the command of Captain Van Doornum. The brig under my command, together with a gun-boat, also remained, and we were soon joined by the corvette Courier. On the 20th, I sailed for Macassar, and two days afterwards, when off Tannette, a number of prahus were seen standing in towards the fort there, in which we had a garrison of fifty men. On perceiving the brig the prahus altered their course and stood out to sea, a proceeding which aroused my suspicion, and as the sea breeze prevented me from following them, I ran in, and brought up off the mouth of the river. A small prahu soon came alongside, bringing the information that the fort was beset on the land side by the enemy, who threatened an attack with so large a force that our small garrison could not possibly resist. The commandant wished to embark his men in the brig and desert the fort; but as I could not receive them without having received orders to that effect from the governor, I sent one of the small vessels that attended the brig to Macassar, to make known to the authorities there the hazardous position we were in. It appeared that the enemy intended to have attacked the fort both by sea and land, in which case not one of the garrison would have escaped. My accidental arrival had fortunately prevented this double attack, which would not have been the case had I come a day later, or had I missed the prahus, the appearance of which caused me to anchor off the fort. I therefore thanked Providence for leading me to adopt the route which brought me near the besieged place, the garrison of which, but for this opportune visit, must have experienced the same fate with that which had already befallen those of Labakang and Pankalina. On the following day the brig Nautilus arrived to relieve us.

In the mean time the people of Boni had risen, all the tribes to the northward of Macassar being now in arms against us. The town of Macassar was often threatened by the enemy, but they never ventured an attack, being deterred by the force our ally, the king of Goa, had brought into the field, and by the reinforcements that arrived from Java. Preparations were now made for a grand expedition, the troops that had been left at Supa and Tannette being withdrawn from their uncomfortable posts to join the main force at Macassar.

On the 1st of December I sailed for Sourabaya, the brig being in want of repairs; and on the 19th of January, 1825, returned to Bonthian Bay, on the south coast of Celebes. On the 10th of March, General Van Geen arrived there with the frigate Javaan, and a number of vessels large and small. The general was accompanied by the Panambahan,[5] of Samanap, on the island of Madura, who brought with him a number of native auxiliaries, paid and equipped at his own expense; the Raja of Goa also furnishing a large number of men for the expedition, who were armed by our government. The ships of war were attended by a number of transports; so that the fleet presented a very imposing appearance.

On the 16th of March the fleet sailed from Bonthian Bay, and passing through the straits of Salayer, entered the Bay of Boni, without incurring injury from the numerous coral reefs that were scattered along our route. A melancholy accident occurred soon after our departure from Bonthian. A detachment of three officers and ninety-three light infantry men, had been embarked on board a prahu, totally unfitted for a transport. Some vessels having been perceived by the people on deck, they called out that some pirates had hove in sight, on which those who were below rushed up, and climbing on one side of the vessel, capsized her, only the three officers and thirty-three of the men being saved.

Our operations commenced at Sengey, where the troops were landed, and the enemy not only driven helter-skelter out of their intrenchments, but forced also to evacuate the neighbouring country. The portion of our force which marched overland having joined us, we pushed forward to Batjua, the capital of the kingdom of Boni, taking and destroying the stockades of the enemy as we advanced. Batjua consists of a chain of beautiful villages, defended by stockades erected in the water and well provided with guns. It is considered as the seat of the court of Boni, although the king resides about an hour and a half's journey in the interior. Being the chief commercial depôt of the kingdom, the trade is considerable. We found a large number of prahus here, the greater number of which had been hauled up on the beach to prevent our destroying them.

General Van Geen determined to effect a landing here, and the enemy having been drawn away from the beach by a clever ruse, the troops were put on shore without difficulty. The Boniers fled before the advance of our courageous soldiers, sustaining great loss in their retreat. The town was found to have been evacuated by the enemy, although two-hundred pieces of cannon of small calibre were mounted on the walls. The troops brought to the field by the Panambahan of Samanap behaved very well in the attack. Notwithstanding their defeat, the enemy obstinately refused to enter into negotiations with us.

The armed boats of the squadron were constantly employed in landing the troops, and in attacking the batteries of the enemy. On one of these occasions we had the misfortune to lose Lieutenant Alewyn, the commander of the brig Siwa, an officer universally esteemed.

I will pass over in silence many other particulars of minor importance, connected with this expedition. As the westerly monsoon was now drawing to a close, and the number of our sick had become very great, we found it impossible to pursue the enemy into the interior. Macassar had been freed from danger, Supa had been taken, and the island of Celebes placed in a state of more tranquillity; but not a single native chief had been brought under the subjection of our government, so that the expedition had produced no other useful effect than that of affording a new proof of the total inability of the natives to withstand the courage and military skill of Europeans.

On the departure of the fleet from the Bay of Boni, my brig, together with the Nautilus and the Daphne, sailed for Amboyna, touching at Buton on the way, to obtain refreshments. Every ship that had been employed had a large number of their men sick, one fifth only of the crew of my brig being fit for duty. My officers and myself also suffered much; indeed, on our arrival at Amboyna there was not a healthy man on board. This prevalence of sickness is to be attributed to the fatigues we had endured, and it should act as a warning to our government to deter them from undertaking expeditions like these except in cases of urgent necessity, or when they have very important objects in view.

I will now proceed to give an account of the more agreeable duties entrusted to my charge, which I was fortunate enough to carry into execution to the satisfaction of the government, and within a tolerably short period of time.

FOOTNOTES:

[2] The yard in which these vessels were built, was subsequently burned by the rebels; Mr. Waller, the shipwright, losing all the property he had collected by his diligence.

[3] This name, unfamiliar to European ears, is derived from a fable of the Bramins, whose religion once obtained in Java. Dourga was the consort of the god Siva, in fact the Juno of the Jupiter of the Hindoos. Many images of this deity are to be met with among the ruins of the temples scattered over the island.

[4] The kriss is a short dagger of a serpentine form; the klewang, a sort of hanger or short sword; and the lelah, a cannon of small calibre, usually composed of brass.

[5] Panambahan is a Javanese title, the possessor of which takes precedence of a Pangeran or Prince, but ranks below a Raja or Sultan.

CHAPTER II.

TIMOR.

Object of the Voyage.—Sail for Timor.—Arrive at the Portuguese Settlement of Dilli.—Poverty of the Inhabitants.—Mean Reception.—Agriculture much neglected.—Slave Trade.—Symptoms of Distrust on the Part of the Portuguese.—Discontented state of their Native Subjects.—Departure for the Island of Wetta.

I was permitted by the Government to remain a considerable time at Amboyna, as the greater part of the brig's crew were forced to enter the hospital, while the vessel herself was in want of considerable repair. The fine climate of this agreeable island, coupled with the attendance of a skilful physician (M. Zengacker), soon restored my brave crew to their former health and vigour, and the fresh air of Batu Gadja, the residence of the much-respected governor, M.P. Merkus, with the kind hospitality of its owner, soon caused me to forget the fatigues and hardships I had undergone. When my health was sufficiently restored to permit me to resume active duties, I made preparations for a voyage to the Arru, Tenimber, and the other islands lying between Great Timor and New Guinea, the conduct of which had been entrusted to me by an order of the Government. These islands were formerly possessions of our old East India Company, who had created small forts on many of them, the better to secure to themselves the entire trade in spices. Well known events connected with the state, which undermined the monopoly of the East India Company, caused these islands to decrease in importance, until at length the communication with them ceased, and had continued so for a long series of years. During the period in which the English had possession of the Moluccas these islands were disregarded, so that their inhabitants were scarcely aware that they had changed masters, and still continued to view themselves as subjects of the Dutch, hoisting their flag on all festive occasions. It is also a well-known fact, that at our factory in Japan (thanks to the firm conduct of the chief, H. Doeff), our flag was never hauled down; while the Dutch, therefore, ceased to exist as a nation, our colours continued flying, and our authority acknowledged in several of the remote possessions acquired by the courage and enterprize of our forefathers. I trust we may again be actuated by the desire, not to conquer new countries, but to maintain and increase our power in those bequeathed to us by our ancestors.

With reference to the above-mentioned islands, the fifth article of my instructions contained the following passage:—"And further, you will inquire as to what remains exist of the forts erected by the East India Company on the islands, especially on those of Arru, Tenimber, and Kessa, noting down with correctness the particulars you may obtain concerning them, subjoining your own observations on their positions, and other points." A second object of my expedition was: "to kindle and renew friendly relations with the natives, and to invite them to visit Banda for the purpose of trading, this being an object of importance to the islanders themselves, since they would there obtain the goods they might require in exchange for their produce, on more advantageous terms than from the traders who have hitherto supplied them." By my instructions I was also requested, not only to note down answers to the points of inquiry contained in them, but also to embody in a report any observations I might make on subjects of importance to the Government, that the information concerning these possessions might be as full as possible.

M. Dielwaart, a gentleman in the employ of the Government, accompanied me for the purpose of assisting in the examination; and M. Kam, a clergyman, was also attached to the expedition, his object being to promote the interests of Christianity, and to arrange all matters connected with church affairs and public instruction. An interpreter for the Malayan language, and another acquainted with the dialect spoken by the mountaineers, were furnished to me, together with a guard of seven soldiers.

On the 26th of May we sailed from Amboyna, and soon cleared the bay—this being sometimes attended with much difficulty—when we steered to the southward towards the town of Dilli, on the north-west coast of Timor. Having to contend against squalls and contrary winds, we did not reach the roads of Dilli until the 2nd of June. On arriving outside the reefs which shelter the roads, we hove-to, and were boarded by a Portuguese naval officer, who acted as harbour-master, and conducted us into the inner roads by a narrow channel to the westward of the town, which forms the only entrance. A ship may come to an anchor outside the reefs, but the water is very deep, and she would be quite unsheltered.

We found a large ship from Macao at anchor in the roads, but no other vessel, not even a native prahu, was to be seen. After having anchored we saluted the fort with thirteen guns, which the latter returned with only eleven. On my demanding the reason of this deficiency, it was attributed to the carelessness of the officer of artillery, for which it appeared he was to be punished. Soon after entering the roads, I sent Lieutenant Bruining on shore to inform the Governor of our arrival. This gentleman having just retired to take his siesta, his people had the incivility to allow M. Bruining to walk in front of the house from noon until three o'clock, before being admitted into his presence. The Governor expressed himself much gratified at our arrival, and wished me to call upon him in the evening, when I went to his house in company with several of the gentlemen who were embarked with me, and experienced a more hospitable reception than could have been expected from the poverty-stricken appearance of the place.

The Governor of the Portuguese possessions in the north coast of Timor usually resides at Dilli, and pays himself and the other officials out of the revenue derived from the trade. They are all engaged in mercantile pursuits. Their pay, indeed, is extremely small, the officers receiving only eleven guilders,[6] and the soldiers three guilders per month. Their dwellings are miserable, dirty, and poor.

The Governor resides in a small wooden house situated at the back of the fort, which contains no other furniture than a few tables, benches, and old chairs. When dining at his house the following day, we plainly perceived that the chairs, dishes, plates, and even the table-linen, had been lent for the occasion by various individuals, all being of different make and fashion; and our opinion on this point was afterwards confirmed.

The Governor appeared to be much pleased on finding that I was in want of some cattle and various articles, with which he offered to supply me. He charged me seven dollars a head for the buffaloes, and eighty-six guilders for half a picul (sixty-six pounds and a half) of wax candles, that I purchased from him, in addition to which I paid six per cent. export duty at the custom-house. Slaves were frequently offered to me on sale, the Commandant, among others, wishing me to purchase two children of seven or eight years of age, who were loaded with heavy irons. The usual price of an adult male slave is forty guilders, that of a woman or a child being from twenty-five to thirty. These unfortunate people are kidnapped in the interior, and brought to Dilli for sale, the Governor readily providing the vender with certificates under his hand and seal, authorizing him to dispose of the captives as he may think fit.[7]

In addition to the slave trade, from which the government officers appeared to derive the greater part of their income, a commerce is also earned on in wax and sandal-wood, which the natives are forced to deliver up at a small, and almost nominal price. The trade is entirely engrossed by the governor and officials, no other individual being permitted to embark in commerce. This, with other abuses, caused so much discontent, that many of the inhabitants of Dilli, both natives and Chinese, expressed to me their strong desire to be freed from the hateful yoke of the Portuguese. Scarcely had we anchored in the roads, when several came on board the brig and gave vent to their joy, supposing that we had come to take possession of the place.

The fort, a square inclosure, without bastions, containing within it a house and a magazine, is constructed of stone and clay. Several pieces of cannon are mounted on the walls, but the greater number are unprovided with carriages. Some of our officers wished to inspect the interior, but orders had been issued to the sentry not to allow us to enter; at all events, our officers were refused admission on the plea, that our visiting the fort would be viewed with displeasure by the Governor. We did not think it worth while to make a formal request for permission to visit this pitiful fortress, as the appearance of the exterior gave us a good idea of what we might expect to meet with inside.

Excepting the wife of the master of a merchant ship, we did not meet with a single European woman here. Even those of the mixed breed were scarce, two or three only being encountered by us during our stay.

When the Portuguese go abroad to pay a visit or to take the air, they are carried by two or three slaves in a canvass hammock, suspended from a bamboo pole, over which an awning is extended to protect the rider from the sun and rain. There are excellent horses in the place, but very little use is made of them, neither carts nor carriages being employed by the inhabitants. The Portuguese, indeed, betray no activity, and appear to have given themselves up to an indolent mode of life, all their actions being redolent of laziness and apathy.

The population appeared to be numerous, but no signs of prosperity were visible. The dwelling-houses, small, dirty and ruinous, and built without order or symmetry, were scattered irregularly over the town. On each side of the quarter inhabited by the Portuguese two redoubts have been erected, on which some old iron guns of small calibre were mounted. The sentinels were half naked, and their muskets were for the most part without locks, so that they could only be carried for show. In addition to their muskets they carried long poniards or daggers.

A large plain extended to the eastward of the town, on which appeared an exceedingly high gallows. A short distance inland to the south-west the chief of the native inhabitants resided, to whom I would willingly have paid a visit, had it not been so much against the inclination of the governor, who pretended that the chief was seriously indisposed. A feeling of distrust on the part of the Portuguese was apparent throughout our intercourse with them, and they evidently wished us to hold no intercourse with the natives.

The land around the settlement is highly fertile, and fruit, which here as in other parts of India, is produced without the assistance of human industry, was plentiful; but culinary vegetables were very scarce. The land would produce abundantly were the indolent Portuguese to turn their attention to agriculture, or to encourage the natives to do so; but they prefer seeing the innocent natives carried off from their peaceful homes in the hills, that they may profit by their sale, to allowing them to better their condition by their labour and agricultural skill.

On two occasions some of the gentlemen of the settlement came off to pay us a visit, appearing to be much surprised by the interior arrangements of the brig. I had also invited the Governor, but he made some trifling excuses for remaining on shore. Having thus doubly requited the attention I experienced from these gentlemen, I made preparations for my departure, and sent the Governor a present of a thousand Manilla cigars, with a quantity of fishhooks, in return for which he sent me off some sheep, and a number of shaddocks. We therefore parted on the best terms.

Having now fulfilled the orders of the Governor of the Moluccas, we weighed anchor on the 6th of June, and were piloted out by the same lieutenant who had taken us into the roads. No fees being demanded, I presented him with some provisions and trifles, which were received with thanks. The day previous to our departure having been the birthday of their king, a general promotion had taken place, by which this gentleman had received the rank of first lieutenant, with a monthly increase of pay of three guilders, his salary now amounting to fourteen guilders per month.

The Portuguese possessions lie on the north side of Timor, and consist of several small posts or factories, the principal of which are Batu-Gede to the west, and Manatatu to the east of Dilli, the capital. On the west and south-west sides of the island the Dutch settlements are situated, the town of Coepang being the seat of the Residency. As this part of Timor was beyond the limits of my intended voyage, I steered a direct course from Dilli towards the Island of Wetta.

FOOTNOTES:

[6] A guilder is 1s. 8d. sterling.—Trans.

[7] When Captain King first visited Melville Island, on the north coast of Australia, the natives appeared on the beach and called out to our voyager, "Ven aca," the Portuguese term for "Come here." From this, coupled with many circumstances that came under his observation during his stay at Melville Island, Major Campbell, in an excellent account of that island inserted in the journal of the Royal Geographical Society, states it to be his opinion, that the Portuguese sometimes touch here and carry off the natives as slaves. When this part of the world is better known, similar scandalous transactions will, probably, be brought to light.—Trans.

CHAPTER III.

THE SERWATTY ISLANDS.

Arrival at the island of Wetta.—Productions.—Trade.—Interview with the natives.—Destruction of the chief village.—Depart for Kissa.—The Christian inhabitants.—The fort Vallenhoven.—Friendly reception by the natives.—Beauty of the landscape.—State of agriculture.—Attachment of the people to the Dutch government.—General assemblage of the people.—Performance of divine service.—Native hospitalities.—Order, neatness and industry of the people of Kissa.

During the existence of the Dutch East India Company, a garrison of their troops occupied the village of Sau, on the south coast of Wetta, an island situated opposite the north coast of Timor. We directed our course thither, and stood close along shore to search for the village in question. The shores of the island were steep and hilly, but luxuriantly clothed with trees, among which appeared at intervals the huts of the inhabitants, the whole presenting a most picturesque view. The natives appeared to be extremely shy, none of them making their appearance on the beach, nor indeed seeming to wish to look at us.

On the 10th of June we arrived off Sau, and came to an anchor in fifty fathoms water, about a cable's length from the shore, in a small bay, where we lay tolerably well sheltered from the south-east winds by a point of land. Having fired a gun, and hoisted the Dutch flag, two natives made their appearance on the beach, to whom I sent one of the interpreters, who soon brought them on board. They proved to be Christian native chiefs, Hura, the Orang Kaya, and Dirk-Cobus, the Orang Tua of the village.[8] Their appearance betokened great poverty, and they complained bitterly of the miserable state into which they had fallen since they had lost the protection of the Dutch. They informed me that four years previously their village had been plundered and burned to the ground, and several of their people killed, by the inhabitants of Lette, since which occurrence they had deserted the sea-coast, and had taken up their residence in the hills.

With the view of inspiring them with confidence, I went on shore entirely alone, and landed near the remains of what had been a fine walled village, containing a church and a guard-house. The number of the fruit trees, and the luxuriant growth of the various plants, gave evidence that the ground over which I walked possessed exceeding fertility. A crowd of unconverted natives, who recognized the above-mentioned Christian chiefs as their rulers, now joined us. They were all armed with spears, bows, arrows, and parangs or chopping knives; but they soon laid these aside, and gave many tokens of friendship and confidence. A small quantity of arrack and tobacco which I distributed among them, put them in high spirits. With the exception of the two chiefs, none of the natives spoke the Malayan language, nor were my interpreters acquainted with their dialect.

On the beach I met with two sheds belonging to the people of Kissa, who had been in the habit of coming here to barter cloth, iron and gold, for sandal-wood, rice and Indian corn or maize. Coin is not in use as a currency among the natives. Buffaloes, hogs, sheep and fowls may be obtained here at a very cheap rate in exchange for cloth, but not in very large numbers.

Having wandered for some time over this very beautiful country, we approached the eastern extremity of the village, and sat down on the banks of a river, which there emptied itself into the sea. They appeared much pleased by this, and with much energy of manner expressed their ardent desire to live once more in peace and quietude under the rule of the Dutch, at the same time offering up thanks to heaven on finding that the Company, (as they always styled our government) after having so long abandoned them, had now again appeared. Although both the chiefs spoke the Malayan language, I could not correctly understand the answers to all the questions I put, but they clearly expressed their desire to take up their residence again on the sea shore, and requested that one or two European soldiers, with a teacher to instruct them in the tenets of Christianity, might be left among them. For the latter in particular they appeared to be extremely anxious. They also made several other requests; on which I promised that the Netherlands' government should watch over their interests, but that their prosperity must depend chiefly on their own exertions.

From the account of the natives themselves, the sea coast population of the island is far from being numerous, many of the inhabitants having retired to the other islands after the destruction of Sau. On the other hand, the mountaineers, who are called Arafuras, are in great numbers, these simple people considering themselves as the subjects of the inhabitants of the coast. The natives of the north and east coasts of Wetta have a bad character, having plundered and murdered the crews of two prahus a short time previous to my visit to the island.

The Arafuras of the interior had been in a very unsettled state some time past, all regularity of government having been put an end to by the death of the Raja, Johannes Pitta, whose heir had retired with his mother to the island of Kissa. The natives besought me in the most earnest manner to summon this young man back to his native island, and install him as their chief.

The two chiefs and several of the people, returned with me to the brig, where I presented them with some cloth and a Dutch flag, promising to promote their interests to the best of my power at Kissa, towards which island, having nothing more to detain me here, I now steered.

Kissa possesses only two anchoring places, one on the west, and the other on the south-east side of the island. When seen from a distance the land does not appear to be much elevated above the level of the sea, but on a nearer approach it will be perceived that the shores rise abruptly from the water, and are of a very rocky nature. Small creeks and inlets are to be seen here and there, but these will only admit prahus of a small draught of water. In former times Kissa was the seat of the Dutch Residency of the south-west islands,[9] and it is still the most populous of the group, the people being also farther advanced in civilization than their neighbours.

In standing westward towards the roads, we ran close along the south-west side of the island, where the violent breaking of the sea against the steep shore, presented a very picturesque appearance; but to us, who were at a very small distance from the land, the sight was combined with something of the terrific. On the 13th of June we anchored in a bight to the northward of the south-west point, on a strip of sand and rocks, with very irregular soundings on it, and moored the brig with a hawser made fast to the steep shore. The beach was here flat and sandy, but was fronted by a reef, steep to on the outer side, over which small prahus can go at the time of high water. The inhabitants haul up their jonkos (trading prahus of about twenty tons burthen) on the beach.

The natives hoisted a Dutch flag on our arrival, and several of the chiefs came off to welcome us to their shores shortly after we had come to an anchor. I soon went on shore, accompanied by M. Kam and several of the gentlemen, when we found a multitude of natives assembled on the beach to receive us, provided with litters to carry us up into the country. The proofs of joy at our arrival, evinced by the assembled crowd, were indeed striking in the extreme.

My attention was first directed to the fort Vollenhoven, which was situated a little to the northward of our anchorage, in the middle of an extensive level plain. The fort consisted of an inclosure about ninety feet square, formed by stone walls ten feet high and three feet in thickness, with a gate on the east side, and a bastion with four embrasures on the south-west and north-east corners. This portion of the fort was still in a good and serviceable state, but the interior works and the building had all fallen to the ground, the greater portion of the materials having been destroyed by the white ant.[10] We found five dismounted cannon lying on the sea bastion, one a one-pounder, and the others four-pounders, which were still in good condition. The fort, with all its contents, were considered by the natives as the property of the old East India Company, and for this reason had been preserved untouched by the natives, who viewed them as relics. They eagerly offered to put these, together with the Residency House, which was much decayed, into repair, if a Dutch garrison were again placed among them.

Marna, the chief village, which lies inland about half an hour's journey from the fort, is approached by means of a pathway, shaded by high trees, running along a deep valley. The village has an appearance of great neatness, the houses, many of which have the sides constructed of planks, being surrounded by gardens kept in the greatest order; and, although the buildings are of different heights and sizes, the village has by no means an irregular appearance. It is enclosed on one side by a stone wall, and on the other three by live hedges, or pagga fences. All the inhabitants profess the Christian religion, and the large and well-built church in which they perform their devotions is kept in a state of perfect order. The village altogether presents a charming proof of the order, neatness, and industry of the inhabitants, by which they have naturally arisen to a greater state of prosperity than will be found in most other native places. The whole island consists of clusters of hillocks, luxuriantly clothed with herbage, the summits of which we often ascended to enjoy the delightful prospect afforded by the villages and cultivated fields spread over the country, the scene being enlivened by the presence of men, women and children, busily pursuing their avocations. Agriculture, however, is not so much attended to as could be wished, as the natives are obliged to import rice and maize from Wetta, but cattle and stock are in the greatest abundance.

The people of Kissa devote themselves chiefly to commercial pursuits, carrying on a brisk trade with the neighbouring islands; and in this point of view Kissa must be considered as the most important in the group. Their commercial propensities, however, have been disadvantageous to them as far as the improvement of agriculture is concerned.

It had been arranged that a general meeting of the inhabitants should take place on the 14th of June, to give me an opportunity of making known to them the purport of my visit. At nine o'clock in the morning of the day fixed on, I sent forward a detachment of twenty armed European seamen to the village, under the command of one of my officers, and soon afterwards I left the brig for the shore, accompanied by Messrs. Ram and Dielwaart, with the officers of the brig, the clerk and the interpreters, under a salute from the guns. The natives received us on the beach with much ceremony, and conveyed us in litters towards the town, amid the firing of lelahs and the joyous shouts of the natives; these proofs of friendship being the more agreeable from their evident sincerity.

To my great satisfaction, I found that nearly every chief of the island was present at the meeting, and I was heartily welcomed by the upper Orang Kaya in the name of them all. Immediately after this, the entire multitude cried out simultaneously, "Tarima kasipada tūhan Alla, Compania būlūm lūpa sama kami orang," ("Thanks be to God, the Company have not yet forgotten us.")

The letter sent to them by the Governor of the Moluccas was now read in a loud voice by the interpreter, under a salvo from the small arms, according to the custom of the natives; and soon afterwards I distributed among them the presents with which I had been furnished for them by the Government. I have frequently observed, that the natives never decide on any point at the moment, but consult with each other until they have come to a determination. I therefore left them for a time, that they might have their deliberations to themselves. On my return, as I had expected, they expressed themselves very thankful for the good wishes of the Government, and earnestly requested that a small detachment of troops might be established among them as formerly, and that the Government would send them also a missionary or teacher to instruct them in the tenets of Christianity, for whose maintenance they would amply provide. I now, in the name of the Government, confirmed the authority of the various chiefs, in token of which I delivered the staves of office[11] formerly presented to their chiefs by the old East India Company, into the hands of their successors. The chief Orang Kaya, Zacharis Frederick Bakker, had in his possession a certificate of chieftainship furnished him by the present Government, which he requested me to inspect. I then presented him with one of the silver knobbed staves I had brought with me, promising that the Government would afterwards replace it with one provided with a golden knob.

At this meeting, the fugitives from Wetta, (among whom was the heir of the above-mentioned Orang Kaya, Pitta) were present. The chiefs of Kissa promised henceforward to interest themselves in the affairs of Wetta, in doing which they would be promoting their own welfare. I also suggested to them how advantageous it would prove were they to bring their productions to Banda and Amboyna, and gave them much advice as to the best means by which they might increase their prosperity. After this the assembly was broken up, amid a continued firing of lelahs in all parts of the village.

In the meantime a long table had been laid out in the European fashion, with plates, knives, forks and spoons, on which were placed pastry, and other refreshments for our entertainment. The natives of these parts are generally very partial to our national customs, and are also desirous of following the Dutch fashions in their mode of dress. I took my place at the table with the chiefs, while the seamen, who were not forgotten, partook of a separate repast. I had brought on shore several bottles of wine and liqueurs, which added greatly to the conviviality of the meeting, many toasts applicable to the occasion being given. Many of the natives, especially the more respectable, spoke a few words of Dutch, and they took care to make their knowledge apparent at every opportunity.

M. Kam having expressed a wish to perform divine service at the church after the conclusion of the meeting, we entered this neat and substantial building, where we found that every auditor was provided with a proper seat, although, owing to our presence, the church was very full. M. Kam gave a discourse in Malayan and Dutch. The unbroken silence maintained by the auditors, their deep attention, and the truly religious gravity which sat upon every countenance, rendered the scene highly solemn and impressive. When the service was over, about sixty of the natives, old as well as young, were christened by M. Kam, who also united twelve couples in marriage.

The village church is ninety feet in length and forty in breadth, the roof being elevated about, sixty feet from the ground. The costume of the natives was rather singular. They had naturally clothed themselves in their best on this important occasion, some wearing old fashioned-coats with wide sleeves, and broad skirts; others garments of the same description, but of a more modern cut, while the remainder were clad in long black kabyas, or loose coats, the usual dress of native Christians. The costume of those who were clad in the old fashioned coats, was completed by short breeches, shoes with enormous buckles, and three-cornered or round felt hats, of an ancient description. Many of the women wore old Dutch chintz gowns or jackets, the costume of the remainder being the native sarong and kabya. The heads of the women were adorned with ornaments of gold and precious stones, but the men wore their long hair simply confined with a tortoise-shell comb, after the mode adopted by the native Christians of Amboyna. These quaint costumes acted as a considerable foil to the sedateness of the meeting; but even the unpolished seamen did not commit themselves by giving vent to their mirth, and the whole service was performed amid the most perfect order and regularity.

After leaving the church we were invited with much kindness into many of the private houses, and always found small tables laid out with refreshments, the hosts endeavouring, to the best of their power, to receive us with hospitality.

The people of Kissa are far in advance of those of Amboyna in point of industry. Every house that we visited was surrounded by a garden, laid out with much care, in which were planted Indian corn, tobacco, cabbages, siri (piper betel), and various sorts of culinary vegetables, while large herds of cattle were grazing in the valleys.

It was late in the afternoon when we made preparations to return on board. We left the village attended by a multitude of the people, the seamen walking in advance, with drums beating and colours flying, while the officers and myself were carried in litters as before, the kind-hearted and thankful islanders greeting us with blessings and shouts of joy, accompanied by the firing of their lelahs.

On my return on board, I judged it inadvisable to remain under the coast during the night, as we were anchored with a cable of gumuti, (the hairy bark of the borassus gumutus), which is more liable to chafe over the rocks than those of European hemp. Indeed, towards evening the cable parted, which obliged us to stand off and on during the night. Ships navigating these seas should always be provided with chain cables. While the eastern monsoon prevails, the current sets to the eastward, or to windward through these islands, from Dilli, or Timor, as far as the island of Baba. This remark will be of value to navigators, as by taking advantage of this weather current they may work to windward through these islands with facility.

On the morning of the 15th I again went on shore, and, after visiting the village, penetrated farther into the interior than I had previously been. Proofs of the industry and orderly habits of the natives were encountered at every step. My attention was particularly drawn to the course of instruction adopted at the schools, where all the children, under nine or ten years of age, assembled to learn reading and writing, and the rudiments of Christianity.

I observed a strong partiality for a military life among the young men, and there can be no doubt that, if well disciplined, they would prove excellent auxiliary troops for the Government.

Having confirmed the appointment of several chiefs, and fulfilled my duties in every particular, I took a friendly leave of the Orang Kayas and the people, who brought on board a quantity of provisions and fruit as presents, and firing some guns as a last farewell to these good-hearted islanders, we shaped our course for the adjacent island of Lette.

FOOTNOTES:

[8] These two native titles, the first of which signifies literally "rich man," and the other "old man," or "elder," are the usual designations of the chiefs among the Moluccan and the neighbouring island. When these have become Christians, they usually adopt European names, as Dirk-Cobus (Diderik-Jacobus), the chief mentioned in the text, had done.

[9] This group is named in our charts the Serwatty Islands, probably a native corruption of the Dutch term "Zuid-wester" (south-western). As this name has long been recognized, we have continued it here to avoid confusion.—Trans.

[10] These insects, which abound all over India, are very mischievous, sometimes eating through and destroying a chest and its contents in a single night. To prevent this the chests are usually provided with feet, which are placed in small cups of water, the ants having great dread of this element. On the other hand, these insects do good service by destroying the carcases of dead animals, and thus preventing them from polluting the atmosphere.

[11] These staves of office were canes with silver or golden knobs, on which were engraven the arms of the East India Company and the name of the chief to whom they were delivered, together with an appropriate inscription.

CHAPTER IV.

LETTE.

Arrival at the Island of Lette.—Anchoring Place.—Series of Disasters.—Character of the Inhabitants.—The Mountaineers.—Differences among the Islanders.—Good Effects of our Mediation.—Respect entertained by the Natives towards the Dutch Government.

On the following morning, June 17th, we found ourselves close under the south-west point of Lette, and perceived reefs extending along the shore at a distance of half a mile from the land. This island is, for the most part, high and hilly, but near the sea the land is level. The greater portion of the inhabitants reside on the sea-coast, in villages erected upon elevated and projecting points of land, which present a charming appearance as the island is approached. We ran close along the reefs until opposite to the village of Tombra, where there is an opening in the reef, into which we warped the brig, and moored her head and stern. The inlet or basin, which afforded us anchorage, is from four hundred to five hundred feet broad, with depths of six to nine fathoms over a sandy bottom. It is bounded on each side by reefs visible at low water, and at the extremity of the cove lies a white sandy beach covered with numerous cocoa-nut trees.

As soon as the brig was secured, I landed with the native interpreter, at a spot where several of the Christian inhabitants were waiting to conduct us to the village. This did not present an appearance indicating prosperity, as it contained no more than twenty-five houses, occupied both by Christians and heathens. During the previous year, three villages in the neighbourhood had been entirely destroyed by fire, the inhabitants losing all their household property; and shortly afterwards an additional disaster occurred in the death of the Orang Kaya, to whom no successor had yet been appointed. The anarchy and confusion this gave rise to, had caused many of the people to abandon the spot. Those who received us on the beach evinced great joy at our arrival, and expressed hopes that through my intervention, order would again be restored.

It was very soon known throughout the island that a Dutch ship of war had arrived, and the people flocked from all parts of the country to bid us welcome. Among these was an Amboynese teacher, who had arrived here about two years previously. He expressed a wish that I would visit the school-room, which also served the purpose of a church since the building had been destroyed by the fire already mentioned. To this I willingly consented. The scholars, a number of boys and girls, were arranged in a row, and, as I approached, they commenced singing a hymn. After it was concluded, I inspected the school-house, a wretched building, the whole furniture of which consisted of a long table and some bamboo benches. The teacher resided in an adjacent hut, around which a small garden had been laid out. Every thing that met our view presented an appearance of poverty and decay.

Two years previous to our visit, this group of islands had been visited by a violent hurricane, which, especially on Lette, caused frightful devastation: on several tracts of land over which I passed, all the cocoa-nut and other fruit-trees had been levelled with the earth. This disaster had been followed by a drought, which had destroyed the produce of their plantations, and created a great mortality among the cattle, many dying for want of provender. The hurricane had also caused the bees to desert the island, a serious loss to the inhabitants, since wax and honey were among the chief exportable productions of the island. These repeated misfortunes had induced many of the inhabitants to emigrate to Kissa and Roma; in fact, the scarcity of provisions had been so great, that some had actually died from want. This unlucky island, like ancient Egypt, had indeed been harassed and afflicted by a series of plagues. It presented a sad spectacle, especially when compared with the prosperous island of Kissa, the beauties of which were still fresh in our remembrance.

The Christian inhabitants of Lette bear great resemblance in manners, customs, and mode of dress, to those of Kissa. The unconverted natives, who consider themselves as subjects to the former, are still low in the scale of civilization, but are worthy of remark as unsophisticated children of nature. They are tall and well formed, with light brown complexions. Their noses are pointed, and their foreheads high, while their hair, naturally black, is rendered yellow, by rubbing in a composition of lime. It is confined by means of a bamboo comb. The men wear no other dress than a piece of cloth made from the bark of a tree, wrapped round the waist. The women, in addition to this article of clothing, sometimes wear a sort of kabya, or short gown, open in front. Polygamy does not obtain among them, and the men appear generally to be much attached to their wives. Adultery very seldom occurs; indeed, the natives have such an abhorrence of this and every other misdemeanour, that a person found guilty is punished with death, or is sold to foreigners, and thus doomed to perpetual slavery. I was informed that all their goods and chattels are kept in their huts, which are unprovided with doors, or in caves on the mountains; but that notwithstanding these temptations, instances of theft very rarely occur, this crime, like that of incontinence, being considered as conferring an indelible stain on the whole family of the culprit, who either kill him with their own hands, or sell him into slavery. The East India Company, during their occupation of these islands, introduced a philanthropic law, which required them to give up all their criminals, that they might be sent to cultivate the spice plantations of Banda.

These people are idolatrous in every sense of the word, since they pay reverence to an image of human shape, rudely carved from a thick piece of wood. This image is placed in a sitting posture upon a square heap of stone, raised under a large tree in the centre of the village. In the event of a death, a marriage, or any remarkable event, a large hog or a buffalo, which has been kept sacred and fattened for the purpose, is slaughtered before this image. Cattle and other stock form the chief wealth of the natives; but they also possess elephants' tusks, brass wire, gongs, plates and dishes of coarse Chinese porcelain, chopping knives, &c., together with golden ornaments, such as chains, half-moons and ear-rings, these being denominated harta, or household property.

On one occasion I was present at the funeral of a native, which took place in the village of Batu Meau. The body had been laid in the grave previous to my arrival. A number of men were assembled round the spot, who were soon joined by a large party of women, bearing baskets containing household goods and dressed provisions, which were thrown into the grave by each as she approached. A number of aged women now commenced a loud wailing, which they continued without intermission until the grave was filled up with earth. The crowd then collected around the idol, to which a quantity of provisions were offered, and the remainder of the day was spent by the people in feasting and praying around it.

The chiefs of the various villages, who came on board to bid me welcome to their shores, were conveyed in lightly constructed prahus, similar in appearance to the orang-baays[12] used by the Amboynese. Each of these contained thirty rowers, who propelled the vessel with broad paddles; these being far more serviceable than oars, for the use of which there would scarcely be sufficient space. The chiefs rowed in state round the brig three times, beating small gongs called tif-tifs, the music being accompanied by a loud singing, the burthen of which was "Salamat Compania." They then came alongside, and informed me that these vessels and their crews were "Prahu Compania," (government prahus), and that they were perfectly at my service. During the period in which the East India Company had establishments on these islands, the people of each village were obliged to have one of these prahus at all times in readiness for the use of the Resident, or head officer of the Government. The people of the islands have also been accustomed to other requisitions on the part of our Government, to which they comply with the greatest alacrity, feeling hurt whenever their assistance is not accepted. I found the prahus they offered to me on this occasion, of considerable service in bringing off wood, water, and other necessaries.

The day following that of my arrival was fixed on for a general meeting of the chiefs, at which I intended to present them with the letters sent them by the Government, and to transact the remainder of the public business which had brought me here. About seven o'clock in the evening a singular spectacle presented itself. A number of women, taking advantage of the lowness of the tide, collected on the beach to catch fish and crabs, each bearing a flambeau composed of bamboo and resin, and as more than three hundred of these were burning at the same time, they formed a splendid illumination.

On the morning of the 18th, a small brig, belonging to Mr. Franquemont, a merchant of Sourabaya, arrived in the basin. The object of the captain in visiting the island was to purchase stock, which the Java traders are in the habit of obtaining here, but as at the present time the natives had none for sale, the brig sailed immediately for one of the neighbouring islands.

At nine o'clock in the morning of the day fixed for the meeting, I landed, accompanied by several of the gentlemen attached to the expedition, and by a detachment of marines, (as I shall henceforward call the armed seamen,) the brig firing a salute from her great guns. Several of the chiefs and a large number of the people had already assembled, to whom the interpreter read the letter sent by our Government, with the usual accompaniment of a feu-de-joie from the musketry. The business connected with the subject of the letter was soon transacted, but the arrangement of other affairs was attended with much more difficulty than had been experienced at Kissa, the natives there being farther advanced in civilization than at Lette. I was employed during two entire days in deciding petty differences that had arisen among them. A spirit of contention upon the merest trifles forms a peculiar trait in the character of these islanders, and they appeared to prefer living in variance, indeed, in a state of open warfare with one another, to making the least advances towards reconciliation. They would sacrifice all they possessed to keep up the strife, and the result of these disturbances was that many families were forced to wander in poverty over the island, while some actually died of want. The people frankly acknowledged their failing upon this point, to obviate which they were anxious that a Dutch Resident or other government officer should reside among them, to whom they might refer their disputes for adjustment. They promised to abide implicitly by his decision; indeed, during my short stay on the island I had numerous proofs of their willingness to admit our mediation, of which I will here give an example. Throughout the Molucca Seas it had been the custom of the Government to permit those chiefs, whose conduct had been highly meritorious, to carry a Dutch pennant in their orang-baays, or state barges. This mark of distinction had been conferred upon some former chiefs of the village of Batu Meau, and their successors, considering themselves as being also entitled to it, continued to display the pennant from their prahus. This assumption on their part had drawn upon them the violent enmity of the chiefs of the neighbouring villages, who had ever since been in a state of open warfare with those of Batu Meau. It will readily be conceived how difficult it was to reconcile parties so strongly embittered against each other. It required some time to convince the chiefs of Batu Meau, that they had acted wrongly; but at length I was fortunate enough to bring the affair to a favourable termination, the chiefs being prohibited from ever again displaying the offensive banner.

In my notices of Wetta, I mentioned that the village of Sau, on that island, had been destroyed by the people of Lette. From the information concerning the affair that I was enabled to collect here, it appeared that nine natives of Lette, who had visited the village of Sau on a trading voyage, had been massacred by the inhabitants, who had been tempted to commit the deed by a desire to gain possession of the goods that the traders had brought with them. According to the law of retaliation which obtains among the natives of the Archipelago, this deed demanded vengeance on the part of the people of Lette, who proceeded to Wetta with a number of armed prahus, and totally destroyed the village of Sau. This affair had naturally given rise to the direct enmity between the natives of the two islands, which entirely put a stop to the commercial intercourse that had previously subsisted between them, and but for our own interposition, a reconciliation could never have been effected. This case affords a striking example of the detriment these islanders suffer from the barbarous nature of their laws, or rather customs.

When distributing the presents, sent by the Government, at the general meeting of the chiefs, I was requested to apportion the shares for each village, the chiefs themselves candidly confessing that since they all considered themselves as equal in point of rank, were this duty left to themselves, it would certainly give rise to a renewal of the discord that had so long prevailed among them. Although their old adats or customs, are so absurd and contradictory, that their interests are greatly injured by maintaining them, they yet, with an obstinacy for which it is difficult to account, submit to and revere them as sacred and inviolable laws.

On the east side of Lette, near the village of Batu Meau, we met with a block-house, surrounded by a high stone wall, which had formerly been occupied by a garrison of the Dutch East India Company. It was in a state of great dilapidation, indeed, every thing we encountered bore evident marks of the poverty and misery of the people, which, however, is in a great measure to be attributed to the unavoidable disasters which had befallen them. I promised the chiefs that I would inform the Government of their difficulties, and stated to them that I had remained at the island longer than I had originally intended, with the hope that my mediation would effect a termination to their disputes. I urged them strongly to live henceforward in unity, and I had the satisfaction of perceiving, before my departure from the island, a considerable improvement in their social state, the people of the different villages having become on far better terms with one another. The exhortations and advice of that estimable clergyman, M. Kam, had also effected much good. Many of the people were baptized and married by him, the solemnity with which these duties were performed making a deep impression on the susceptible minds of this simple, and by no means badly-disposed people. Before our departure they gave proofs of a returning spirit of industry, by commencing to repair their church and houses.

From Lette I proceeded to Moa, of which island I will give a description in the ensuing chapter.

FOOTNOTES:

[12] This name is also here applied to the vessels of the head chiefs. They are large galleys, with high stems and sterns, having a roof of attap, or palm leaves, raised over them.

CHAPTER V.

MOA AND ROMA.

Boat Expedition to the Island of Moa.—Good Inclination of the Inhabitants.—The Block-house.—The Duif Family.—Character of the People.—Respect entertained by the Heathen towards the Christian Inhabitants.—State of Civilization and Public Instruction.—Kind Hospitality of the Natives.—Their Feelings of Attachment and Confidence towards the Dutch Government.—Departure for the Island of Roma.

According to an old adat or custom, the ships of the Dutch East India Company never anchored off Moa, but remained at Lette, whence the Company's servants were conducted to Moa by a chief of that island, who came over for the purpose; and as I did not wish to make an inroad into old usages, I made known my arrival to the people of Moa, upon which the chief of the village of Tombra came over to welcome me, and to offer his vessel for my accommodation during the proposed expedition. On the 21st of June I departed for Moa, accompanied by several of my officers, and followed by two of our boats carrying the detachment of marines, while a number of native prahus brought up the rear. Having a fair wind, we soon arrived off the west coast of the island, where we found a large crowd of the natives assembled, who gave us a most enthusiastic welcome. I cannot find terms to describe how gratifying it was to us to discover in all these islands, so sincere and unanimous a feeling of attachment towards our Government; for the long period, during which the friendly communication between these inhabitants and the Dutch had been discontinued, appeared only to have added fresh fuel to their attachment.

The part of the island at which we had arrived was due east from the village of Batu Mean, and no sooner had we stepped on shore than a number of litters, which had been prepared for us, were brought forward, when there existed no little commotion among the crowd, each wishing that the village to which he belonged should be honoured by our first visit. Here we took a kind farewell of the chiefs of Lette who had accompanied us, when they departed homewards amid repeated mutual congratulations. We now deposited ourselves in the litters, which were provided with curtains of chintz or coloured cotton; our own party, which numbered six, together with the chiefs, being carried in this manner, and as the crowd was very great, the bearers could change frequently during our tolerably long journey to the head village. Behind us walked the detachment of marines, and the domestics who carried the presents, so that our train had a very imposing appearance.

Our way lay, for the most part, over level uninhabited land, cultivated in some places, and in others overgrown with allang-allang, a sort of wild grass, growing to the height of four or five feet. The foot-path was narrow and bad, and this, combined with the heat of the sun, and the length of the distance, rendered the journey extremely painful, especially to our marines. We had left the landing-place at half-past eight, and owing to these difficulties did not arrive at our destination until one in the afternoon, and as this was too long a period to remain in the litters, we often relieved our cramped limbs by walking.

The villages of Roksali, Taynama, and Patti, to which we were journeying, are situated on a piece of high coral ground near the beach, and are separated from each other by high stone walls. We marched into the chief of these with drums beating and colours flying, and were received by the inhabitants with much friendship and confidence. One of the chiefs requested us to stay a short time under the shade of a high tree in the village, when he left us, and soon afterwards we were welcomed with much ceremony by a very aged native, who was entirely clad in an ancient European costume. He wore a large wig, a three-cornered hat, short breeches with large knee-buckles, and a coat with wide sleeves, ruffles, and spacious skirts; while on his feet he had high shoes, with heavy silver buckles: in short, he was clad after the fashion of the seventeenth century. This old man frankly offered us whatever the village contained, stating that men and goods were at our disposal; and declaring that our arrival had inspired him and his countrymen with the greatest delight. His joy was not feigned, for in many conversations which I afterwards held with him he gave most unequivocal proofs of his earnest attachment to the Dutch Government, and the sincerity of his feelings was undoubted, as, although he reasoned well, he yet gave proofs of great age having impaired his understanding; therefore he would have been unable to keep his duplicity concealed had any existed. This old man had once been governor or regent of the island. The whole population viewed him with the highest respect; they consulted him on every affair of importance, and his clear knowledge of men and things, coupled with his long experience, gave him a great influence over them. He had resigned his authority several years since, and his grandson, of whom mention will be made hereafter, had been appointed his successor, with the title of Upper Orang Kaya.

After I had remained under the high tree some time conversing with this worthy native, we were conducted to a Block-house, situated near the sea, which had formerly been the abode of the garrison left here by the (Dutch) East India Company. This building, which was tolerably large, and of great strength, was surrounded by a good stone wall, one hundred and fifty paces square, provided with several look-out houses, and four doors. Upon a board above the door of the house were cut these words:—"De Korporaal Duif heeft dit gebouw gesticht in het jaar 17..,"[13] the date was legible no farther.

The natives had preserved the Block-house in a good state of repair, out of regard for the Company (which term they usually apply to the Netherlands' Government,) and in the hope that they would once more be favoured (this was their expression) by the presence of a Dutch garrison. Even the bed places of the three soldiers, who had resided here, were left entire. On the occasion of our coming the entire building had been repaired and beautified, so that at the present time it was in a very serviceable state.

I will here give an instance of the nice sense of propriety shown by these people, at which I must confess I was surprised. No sooner had we expressed a wish to take a little rest than they all retired, no one coming near unless called for; while two natives posted themselves at the door, to inform those who wished to enter that we were not to be disturbed; and this was done without any wish to that effect having been expressed by any one of our party.

A family who went by the name of Duif, were among those who came to greet me on my arrival. The head of the family announced to me that he was the son of the Corporal Duif who had been entrusted with the erection of the Block-house, and that his father had married a native woman, from whom had sprung a very numerous progeny. I found here, as well as on the islands I had previously visited, that it is a mark of distinction to have sprung from an European. Those who have a mixture of our blood in their veins, are called "Anak Compania" (children of the Company), and they are not a little proud of the title, although it confers upon them no exclusive privileges.

Immediately after we had entered the Block-house, and our baggage had been brought in, the bearers and other natives retired, a chief and six others remaining, to attend to our wants. Meat, eggs, milk and Indian corn were brought to us, and with this they prepared a patriarchal meal, which was seasoned with kind hospitality.

The place where we had taken up our residence was situated on the south-west point of the island, close to the shore, where the reefs are steep to, so that here, especially in the rainy monsoon, there is a very heavy surf. On every point of the east side of the island there is good and convenient anchorage.

The inhabitants of Moa turn their chief attention to breeding cattle, and grow only a small quantity of vegetables and Indian corn, the two last being chiefly for home consumption. The vessels which come to trade with the island generally anchor under the coast of Lette, and obtain the buffaloes, goats, hogs, and fowls from natives of Lette, who go to Moa to purchase them; but the traders themselves sometimes go to Moa to fetch them in their own prahus. The inhabitants of the latter island never carry their stock to sea in their own vessels, as, from an old tradition, they entertain a superstitious notion that, were they to do so, some serious misfortune would inevitably befal them. Their flocks and herds are composed chiefly of sheep and buffaloes.

On Moa, as well as on most of the other islands, the population is divided into two classes, Christians and heathens, which may be considered as standing in the same relation to each other as masters and subjects. The subordination of the heathens, (who are by far the most numerous,) and the respect they entertain towards the Christians, are very remarkable, and may be partly attributed to the superior consideration in which the Christians are held by our Government; but undeniably, it is in a great measure owing to an irresistible belief on the part of the heathens, in the moral superiority of the Christians. That the latter must be the chief cause is apparent, from no Dutch ship of war having visited these islands for a long series of years.

On the north-east point of Moa, a solitary high mountain, called Korbou, or Buffalo Peak, resembling in appearance, but much inferior in height to the famed Peak of Teneriffe, raises its head above the remaining part of the island, which consists generally of flat land. The ground is everywhere corally; and on the south and south-eastern parts of the island there is very little cultivation. The extensive plains, which produce nothing but allang-allang, are converted into good meadow land by the skill of the natives, who, at the end of the dry season, when this coarse grass has been almost withered by the continued heat and drought, set fire to it, and it is soon reduced to ashes. The rains, which shortly follow, combined with the heat of the sun, render the land thus prepared very productive, the ashes forming an excellent manure. The young grass, which now springs up, affords sumptuous fare for the stock; this fact being attested by the sleek and fat condition of the buffaloes, sheep, and other animals which feed upon it; indeed, the buffaloes of Moa are considered to be the best that can be procured among those islands.

Specie is seldom or never in use among the natives, cloth, brass-wire and other articles of foreign manufacture or produce, being used as a medium of exchange. A buffalo is to be purchased by goods to the value of five or six guilders (8s. 4d. to 10s.), while the price of a sheep is from two to three guilders. Fishing is not so much pursued, either by the people of Moa, or by those of the neighbouring islands, as one would be led to expect, when the abundance of fish is taken into consideration. No wild animals are to be met with on the island. A few blue pigeons are occasionally seen; but I have traversed the island for hours together, in company with some other lovers of field-sports, without meeting with any game.

On the day after our arrival at the head village, I commenced transacting the business with which I had been entrusted. The assembling of the chiefs and people was conducted in the same manner as in Kissa and Lette, and I was constantly employed for three days attending to their affairs, instituting measures for increasing their prosperity, and forming plans for bettering their social state, especially as far as regards public instruction. The natives expressed their desire, as strongly as those I had previously visited, to receive among them a Dutch garrison, and a local teacher for their youth. I noted down the chief points of their desires, and promised that I would make them known to the Governor of the Moluccas.

It is generally supposed by us that the inhabitants of those distant places are only Christians in name, and have very little true knowledge of our religion; but I am authorized to say from experience, that this opinion is far from being a just one. To my surprise I found among the Christians of Moa, not only an extensive knowledge of the Bible, but also a very clear notion of our religious doctrines. There are very many among them who read and write very well, and when it is taken into consideration that very little instruction has been given them for a long series of years, we cannot help forming a good opinion of the industry and docility of this simple people; I can bear witness that, on this point, the inhabitants of this little island are equal, if not superior, to the natives of Amboyna, who have had far better opportunities of instruction afforded them.

The presence of M. Kam was in the highest degree agreeable to the inhabitants, and they listened with a profound attention, and a lively interest, to the religious discourses of this zealous clergyman, who baptized and married many of his hearers, my fellow voyagers and myself deriving much pleasure from being present at the ceremonies. The religious state of these people is, in a great measure, to be attributed to the exertions of M. Le Bruin, a zealous missionary of Coepang on Timor, who occasionally visits some of these islands.

On the 23rd I appointed the chiefs to the various villages, together with an upper Orang-Kaya, to whom I gave a baton with a silver knob, and a Dutch flag. During our stay on the island our table was supplied in the greatest abundance with meat, vegetables, fruit, and every thing that the island afforded; and when I offered anything to the bearers as payment for these, it was civilly but firmly refused, with the declaration that they had received orders to take nothing either as payment or as reward. All that I could induce them to receive as a token of acknowledgment was a small cask of arrack, of which they appear to be great admirers, although they make a very moderate use of it, and deem it a great disgrace to be found guilty of drinking it to excess.

When I mentioned to the chiefs that I had myself taken on board the provisions I deemed necessary, and that, should I require any more, I would willingly demand and pay for it, that I might be no burthen to the people, my proposal appeared to be by no means agreeable to them. They answered, it was an old custom for the natives to administer to the wants of the Company, and that the people would regret seeing a change in the system, as this custom afforded them a wished-for opportunity of giving a slight proof of their attachment, and they would feel hurt at being deprived of this gratification.

In the mean time, I remarked that they were making preparations to give something more than this "slight proof of attachment," in the shape of a national feast to celebrate the occasion of our visit, and the renewal of their former friendship with the Dutch. As this feast, however, would have detained me two days more, while my time was too valuable to be thrown away, I was forced to decline their invitation, informing them that my departure was irrevocably fixed for the 24th of June. In the course of this day they showed us all possible friendship, as if they wished to make themselves doubly useful during the short period in which we should remain. The evening was spent in making farewell visits, and at half-past four in the morning our bearers were in readiness, when the chiefs conducted us to the boats, the upper Orang-kaya accompanying us to the brig, where we arrived at two o'clock in the afternoon. The people of Moa, as a parting present, sent after us two fat bullocks, as if what they had already done for us were not enough.

Having thus, according to my instructions, done my utmost towards deciding their differences, and placing their affairs on a firm basis, I took my departure on the 27th of June for Roma, a hilly island, about twenty-four miles in circumference, lying about forty miles to the north-west of Moa. On the same day we arrived off Roma, and anchored in seven fathoms on a bank of sand, extending northward to the distance of about half a mile from Nusa Midta, a small island lying off the south end of Roma, from which it is separated by a strait about three miles wide. There is also a bay on the north-west side of Roma, in which it is said that there is very good anchorage, but that part of the island possesses a very scanty population, while the uncleared state of the country renders it difficult to perform a journey to the chief villages, all of which are situated on the more southern parts of the island. On the south-west side of Roma, immediately opposite to the north end of Nusa-Midta, lies a fine and fertile valley, through which runs a small river. In the west monsoon there is good anchorage for a vessel opposite the mouth of this river, from which abundance of timber and fire-wood, and good water, may be obtained. On all the other sides of the island the shores are steep and rocky, on which beats a heavy surf, rendering the landing from boats extremely difficult.

The population of Roma is not very great. The inhabitants, however, are more civilized than on many of the neighbouring islands, and in point of industry and morality they vie with the social and orderly people of Kissa. The chief village was situated to the north-north-east of our anchoring place, on a hill about four hundred feet above the level of the sea, the houses, with the hills rising behind it like an amphitheatre, presenting a very beautiful landscape. Their village was formerly built upon the beach, but the repeated attacks of the Ceramese pirates forced them to remove it to its present site.

The Orang Kayas and Orang Tuas, as usual, came on board to welcome us; and on the following morning I went on shore, accompanied by M. Dielwart, M. Kam, the surgeon, the clerk, the interpreters, and the detachment of marines. As it was high water we had to land through a very heavy surf, when we were received with much friendship, and introduced into the Kota Compania, (the Government block-house,) which consisted of a spacious bamboo house, surrounded by a stone wall, within which there was also a tolerably large church. In consequence of the removal of the village, these now lie below the houses of the natives. The level ground in the neighbourhood is covered with dwellings, each being surrounded by a neat garden. Evidence of the uncommon industry of the people was everywhere apparent, the natural fertility of the soil being greatly increased by the skill with which they cultivate it; indeed, many of the neighbouring islands obtain here their supplies of Indian corn, fruits and other provisions, as well as timber for building their prahus. A large and beautiful valley, extending between the hills to the westward of the village of Jerusa, was covered with plantations of Indian corn, rice and vegetables, while the sides and summits of the hills were decked with grazing flocks of goats, sheep, hogs and buffaloes.

During a walk which we took along the shore and thence into the interior, we spied a number of bees' nests hanging from the branches of the high trees, some of which more than two feet in circumference. The wax and honey are collected with very little difficulty, and the bees, when driven from their nests, generally build another on the same tree. Wax, indeed, forms a very important article of commerce here, large quantities of it being sold to the paduakans and other prahus which come from the Arru Islands, Amboyna and Banda, to obtain it. The usual price is one third of a guilder per Catti (20 oz. avoird.) and this is paid in goods, for specie is very little used.

The Christian inhabitants form the greater portion of the population, and they live on a better footing with the heathens than on the other islands. The latter, indeed, are very desirous to embrace Christianity, and a great number of them were baptized by M. Kam during our stay. They willingly allow their children to learn reading and writing, and the good disposition of these islanders, coupled with their natural capacity and application, would render it a matter of facility to convert the entire population; an event very much to be desired, not only for the improvement it would effect in their social state, but for matters of policy also, as experience has incontestibly proved that those natives who have embraced Christianity shew much more fidelity towards the Dutch Government than the others. The teacher who has lately been placed upon this island by our government, and whom we met during our stay, shews much praise-worthy zeal in his endeavours to improve the condition of the people with whom he is domiciled.

The government of the entire island is invested in an upper Orang Kaya, who resides at Jerusa, the neighbouring villages having each their Orang Tua or elder. The power of the Orang Kaya, however, is by no means absolute, for in the event of any dispute the chiefs of the villages assemble, and the decision is carried by the majority of votes. It is remarkable that sometimes, on the death of a chief, his power is transferred to his wife, so that several women are often to be seen among the chiefs when assembled in conclave. The debates are occasionally continued for two or three days, but they are usually settled without much difference of opinion.

As the people live in such a state of harmony with each other, my official duties were not very heavy, and were soon brought to a close. David Benedictus De Klerk, a young man, was appointed as their Upper Orang Kaya, and solemnly invested with the silver-knobbed cane, to the general satisfaction of the people. Here also they declared that everything the country afforded was at our free disposal, and earnestly requested that a couple of Dutch soldiers might be left behind, as representatives of our government, with the promise that they should be liberally supplied with all necessaries. The new appointed Orang Kaya, and more than one hundred and fifty men, women and children, were baptized by M. Kam, many of the people present being clad after the European style, apparently wishing by these means to shew their attachment to our nation, as was the case at the island of Kissa.

I could not avoid observing that the women of Roma though tall and well made, and not inferior in point of personal attractions to those of the adjacent islands, yet have a defect in their figures where their fair neighbours are particularly favoured by nature. Nearly all the women we saw here, even those who were nursing children, had bosoms as flat as those of the men, while in every other respect their figures are unexceptionable. This striking peculiarity, is perhaps to be attributed to some local cause, like the goitre in the mountains of Switzerland.

Our departure was fixed for the 30th of June, and on the previous evening a farewell repast was given at the Kota Compania, at which all the chiefs were present. I had contributed some bottles of wine, and a small cask of arrack to the entertainment, and these were expended in drinking prosperity to the Dutch nation and government. We returned on board betimes, escorted by a number of native prahus. Although we had been amply provided with stock and vegetables during our stay, several goats and hogs were sent after us, which we found it impossible to refuse.

We steered to the westward along Nusa Midta, which is a small uninhabited island covered with trees, but not affording any fresh water. On this and the other islands around Roma abundance of large turtle are caught by the natives, who do not, however, turn much attention to fishing, commerce and agriculture being better suited to their tastes. In the small but important islands which we visited, the natives might soon be brought into a high state of prosperity, from which our government would derive the greatest benefit. Even now they possess capacious vessels, such as Paduakans,[14] Orang-baays and such like, which they manage with skill, but they have been so long deprived of the protection of our government that they scarcely dare to carry on a trade with the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands.

From this place we pursued our voyage towards the island of Damma, of which some particulars will be given in the ensuing chapter.

FOOTNOTES:

[13] Corporal Duif erected this building in the year 17..

[14] Paduakans are native vessels, having a single mast in the form of a tripod, on which is set a large oblong mat sail, similar to that used by the fishing prahus of Batavia. They are of from twenty to one hundred tons burden (ten tot fifty lasten) with great beam and high sides, but having little hold in the water. They are steered by two long rudders, which are lifted up when the vessel is at anchor or passing over shallow water.

CHAPTER VI.

DAMMA.

Arrival at the Island of Damma.—Description of the Country and Inhabitants.—Warm Springs.—Retrograde Movements of the Natives in point of Civilization.—Their Attachment to the Religion and Manners of the Dutch.—Productions of the Soil.—Dangerous Channel along the Coast.—The Columba Globicera.—Wild Nutmeg Trees.—General Meeting of the Chiefs.—Transactions of M. Kam.

During the voyage I had every reason to be satisfied with the knowledge, experience, conduct and foresight of my pilot, and therefore I entered with confidence the Bay of Kulewatte, on the east side of Damma, although I could not help immediately remarking that it must be very difficult to sail out of the Bay during the easterly monsoon. The pilot, however, confidently assured me, that we should have a steady land wind to carry us out, while there was no other anchoring place near the island; I therefore brought the brig to an anchor under the north point of a small cove lying within the great bay, the latter, which extends about four miles into the land, with high and precipitous shores, being very rocky, and in many parts unfathomable.[15]

Damma is high and hilly, and on the north-east extremity lies a volcanic peak, from the crater of which smoke issues almost without interruption. At the foot of this mountain, near the cove in which we lay, some warm sulphureous springs gushed up through holes in the rocks, the water of which was at so high a temperature, that some yams which I placed in them were cooked within a comparatively short period. Two of our ship's crew, who were so afflicted with rheumatism as to be not only unfit for duty, but in a state of great misery, were sent by our doctor to these springs every morning; and he assured me that the use of the water contributed greatly to the improvement of their health.

Upon the point of the cove in which we were anchored, we perceived the remains of a block-house and other buildings, which had been erected under the direction of the late East India Company, but of which nothing was now left but some heaps of rubbish; while the neighbouring country, once fertile and well-cultivated, presented the appearance of a neglected wilderness, traces of former industry being yet apparent among the luxuriant vegetation. To the westward of us was a stream of clear and pure water, from which we filled up our casks. On the north side of this is placed the village of Selat, once flourishing and prosperous, but now consisting of only about twenty houses. A few Christians are still to be met with among the inhabitants, but by far the greater portion are either heathens, or individuals once Christians, who have returned to their former habits.

On the north side of the island lies Wilhelmus Bay, which was formerly the seat of the Dutch Residency, the village on its shore being considered as the capital of the island. A narrow foot-path, much broken by the unevenness of the ground, leads through a romantic wild valley from Selat to this bay.

At first the natives were very shy, fearful and suspicious, and they received us, as the inhabitants of Atjieh once did an officer of the Dutch navy, with strung bows and levelled spears, and, like the people of Atjieh, they placed confidence in us as soon as they learned that we were Dutch, and officers of the Government. "Orang Wolanda! Orang Compania!" said they to one another; when they laid by their weapons, and received us without suspicion. For a period of thirty years they had not seen a single Dutchman. Their island was seldom visited by trading vessels, and the Christian population had almost become extinct. Owing to a want of regular government, and of instruction for their youth, the people had returned to their original state of ignorance and barbarism; but nevertheless it could be perceived that they esteemed highly every relic of the Dutch rule which they had in their possession.

The islands which we touched at during the previous part of our voyage are annually visited by Dutch country vessels, and our establishments remained longer on them than on Damma. Kissa, for example, was occupied by a civilian and a detachment of soldiers in the early part of the rule of the present Government; this has certainly been removed a considerable time, but it is evident that the latter island must have a great advantage over the others, especially Damma, which, as I have stated above, had not been visited by a single European for a period of thirty years. We cannot, therefore, be surprised at the people of this neglected island having retrograded in point of civilization; for experience has always proved, that when natives, and especially native Christians, have been left to themselves, without the advantages of proper instruction, they have very soon returned to their former condition. On this point our islanders had been highly unfortunate, as their uncontrolled desires led to continued differences, and brought all friendship and unity to an end.

The day after our arrival at Damma I departed on an excursion to Wilhelmus Bay in the sailing-boat. We found the bay to be entirely exposed, and with very bad anchoring ground, while in both monsoons a heavy sea often tumbles in. A small vessel, however, may find more secure anchorage near the mouth of a small fresh water river.

On the west side of the river we discovered the remains of some strong masonry, from which it appeared that this must have been the site of a stronghold. I could gain no correct information from the natives, (who are wretched chronologists, and can rarely tell their own age), as to the period in which this was standing, much less as to that in which it was built. They could only tell me that the Dutch garrison here had been very numerous, and that it had been removed on a sudden by the Government, on account of a great mortality which had occurred. Some aged natives also remembered that at one time Company's ships often came here. These ruins were, probably, the remains of the fort Wilhelmsburg or Nassau, which was built here by our old India Company, in the year 1646, as at that time the island produced a considerable quantity of spices. The establishment, which consisted of a factor, a lieutenant, and seventy soldiers, was shortly afterwards withdrawn, on account of a great mortality which existed, but subsequently a block-house was erected for the military, as upon the other islands.

The church, houses and block-house had been built with the remains of the fort, but even this was now in a most dilapidated condition. The inhabitants themselves were in a state of great poverty, and without occupation; a considerable number, indeed, had emigrated to other islands, that they might obtain the necessaries of life by becoming bondsmen[16] or slaves.

M. Kam, with several of the officers, had come overland, and arrived here at the same time with ourselves. The whole of the inhabitants, old and young, ran out to see us, and touch our clothes; and they shouted with joy at the Company having paid them a visit. Each of us was soon adopted as a sobat, or friend, by one of the natives. On the first day it was impossible for us to get away from them for a moment; especially after I had served out to them a Sopi Compania, that is, a glass of arrack. Their joy was sincere and universal.

The village at which we had arrived, called by the natives Kaayn, consisted of about forty houses, and was considered as being the capital of the island, the chiefs of all the other villages assembling here on the occasion of a general consultation. The Kota Compania was situated near the sea, and like all the others we had met with, was surrounded by a wall. Above the door of the building, on a half decayed plank, were carved the following words:—"Ghebout 1773 Mat Got Halp."[17] The name, which was written under it, was illegible. In front of the gate of the inclosure was a post, four feet high, surmounted by a square stone, on which the arms of the Dutch East India Company were engraved. This had been cleaned and white-washed on our arrival; and the church, which stood in the centre of the village, was supplied with a new roof, and otherwise repaired and beautified.

The other villages which the island contains, are all small and of little importance, and are scattered over the face of the country. As the land is hilly and covered with rocks, cultivation is not carried on to a very great extent; indeed, the ground scarcely yields sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants: but still there are numerous fertile spots, which might be rendered productive were the inhabitants more industrious. A few plantations of sago and cocoa-nut trees, and of Indian corn and vegetables, were met with in the villages, but these were the only products that I saw under cultivation. Their domestic animals consist of goats and hogs, which they sometimes dispose of to the trading prahus. The forests which cover the island afford materials wherewith they construct prahus, which were formerly employed in trading with the neighbouring islands, but since last year their little bartering trade has been discontinued. At the time of my visit these poor people possessed no larger vessels than canoes with outriggers, which they employed in fishing or in carrying them from village to village; so that it is possible that, for some time past, their voyages have been confined solely to the coasts of their own island.

The natives do not often employ themselves in fishing, which is much to be wondered at when it is considered they have a great taste for fish, while abundance of an excellent quality are to be caught in the waters which surround their island; of which, indeed, we had sufficient proof on board the brig, where the seine afforded us a constant supply of the most delicate fish. The indifference of the natives upon this point, is perhaps to be attributed to the abundance of wild hogs and birds which the island affords. Among these is found the Notenkraker[18] (Columba Globicera) hovering in great numbers around the wild nutmeg trees, of the fruit of which, by the way, they are the only consumers, the natives having no taste for spices. With a little industry this article might form a very valuable article of export.

We frequently made shooting excursions into the country during the early part of the morning, and seldom returned without having shot some game, or made some interesting discovery. Among the large trees that clothe the hills, we found abundance of the Kanarie tree, which produces a fruit similar to the almond, and yielding an oil which the natives use as butter in the preparation of their simple fare. The gardens of the inhabitants, which we occasionally visited, were not well laid out, but still were kept in good order; a proof that with more inducements to industry, and a better knowledge of agriculture, they would grow many more useful productions than they do at present.

The northwestern parts of the island are more flat than the others, but the population is very small. Two or three huts, only, may occasionally be seen, occupied by the owners or protectors of the sago and cocoa-nut trees.

On the morning of the 8th of July the chiefs of the different villages assembled together, and the meeting, like those we had previously called together on the other island, was conducted with all the ceremony possible. The good wishes of the government were made known to them, after which I enquired into their affairs, adjusted their differences, and had the gratification of finding that my exertions, though they occupied much time, were attended with the best results. I flatter myself that our arrival on the island has been of the greatest service to the good-natured, but uncivilized and half savage islanders; everything, indeed, shewed that the protecting care of the government for even its most distant subjects, would make a strong impression on their minds. They solemnly and thankfully promised that they would hereafter live in unity, and would punctually follow the advice which I, in the name of the government, had given to them. Having named the Upper Orang Kaya and the other chiefs, distributed the presents and tokens of distinction, and provided them with a Dutch flag to hoist before their village, I made preparations for my departure.

The squally weather which had prevailed during the previous night had increased the swell considerably, so that during our return on board, the boat was twice half filled with water and on the point of sinking; indeed, it was not without much difficulty that we passed round. I mention this for the information of those who may hereafter undertake the same excursion. On a previous occasion I had walked across the country from the bay in which the brig lay, to Wilhelmus Bay, and, although the foot-path was by no means a smooth one, leading continually over hills and mountains, we found the journey rather pleasant than otherwise, which is especially the case in the cool of the morning or evening.

At the general assembly, the chiefs brought me two old batons, which had been presented to some of the late chiefs by the East India Company; these I returned to their successors. There was no other engraving upon them than a cypher comprising the initials of the Dutch East India Company. To the Upper Orang Kaya I gave a new baton, bearing the arms of the present king. The people earnestly requested me to leave two soldiers with them to be the representatives of our government. They evinced great joy when I informed them, that Paulus, an Amboynese schoolmaster, whom I had brought from Roma for the purpose of leaving him here were it necessary, should remain among them; and in a short time they had a small but neat house prepared for him, and zealously employed themselves in furnishing him with every thing that was necessary.

I learned from a prayer book which I found among them, and which had been preserved with the greatest care, that the last visit they had had from a clergyman took place in the year 1789. The duties of M. Kam, after so long a lapse, were therefore very arduous, but the people, though extremely ignorant, appeared to entertain the greatest reverence for the Christian religion. During our short stay, M. Kam baptized more than two hundred and fifty people, old as well as young. The new schoolmaster, Paulus, had been provided with a prayer book, with some pens, ink and paper, and before our departure he had already commenced instructing the inhabitants, his labours, as far as we could judge, promising to be attended with the best results.

On this island we had a still stronger proof than on the others, of the great attachment the natives shew to our customs and mode of dress. At the general meeting, all the inhabitants present, men, women and children, were clad in their festive dresses, and some of their costumes were of the drollest description. About twenty of the men wore old felt hats with broad brims, not unlike those used by the Westphalian peasants. According to their own account, these hats had been given to their forefathers by the first Europeans who arrived here and built the fort, the remains of which we had seen. Others wore extremely old fashioned coats, without any under covering for their bodies; these garments being so ancient and threadbare, that they appeared as if a hard shake would cause them to fall to pieces. These antiquated vestments had been preserved, like Westphalian hams, by being hung up in the smoke over their fireplaces, and after being sufficiently dried, had been kept in small chests, by which means they had remained uninjured by damp or insects.

The 8th of July, the last day of our stay on the island, was spent in giving them solemn injunctions to live in unity and concord, after which we took a hearty farewell, the natives expressing their thankfulness and attachment to the Dutch Government, by repeated shouts of "Salamat Compania!" and "Salamat Gouvernment!" expressed with the utmost candour.

I now commissioned the Upper Orang Kaya to keep all the serviceable prahus in readiness, that they might assist us in towing the brig out of the harbour, in case there should be any necessity for such assistance. At two o'clock the following morning, the east wind having subsided, we weighed anchor and got under sail with a light air from the northward; after I had fired a signal gun, as agreed on, a large number of prahus soon made their appearance. A strong swell rolled into the bay; and as there was very little wind, we did not reach the mouth of the harbour until half-past five o'clock. The tide experienced among these islands is very slight, and at the same time very irregular. The east-south-east wind having set in again, we sent away the prahus that had been towing us, with many thanks, and worked out of the bay with short tacks. When under the north shore we were suddenly becalmed, and the swell was so heavy that the brig drifted rapidly towards the steep rocky shore, until she was within three ship's lengths of it, when a breeze arose and carried her clear. It will be advisable for the mariner to give the northern shore of the bay rather a wide berth, and to be careful not to get baffled under the high shores.

The small islands to the southward of Damma, together with Teon, an island lying to the east-north-east, are uninhabited. In the fine monsoon, turtle in great abundance are caught upon them, especially the Karet turtle, which yields the shell so much valued for the manufacture of combs, &c. This animal, which may be sometimes perceived sleeping on the water, defends itself vigorously when attacked, with its beak. Its flesh is not so delicate as that of the sea (or green) turtle, which is also very numerous among these islands, but the shell of the latter is of little value. The turtle-catchers lie in wait for them when they come on shore, and take an opportunity of turning them on their backs, when they cannot rise again. They sometimes reach the enormous weight of eight hundred pounds. The female lays her eggs, hundreds at a time, on the sea shore; concerning which I shall hereafter offer some remarks.

During the east monsoon there is usually fine weather, which stood us in good stead, as we proceeded from one place to another with tolerable rapidity. With favourable wind and weather we steered from Damma towards the island of Lakor, without anything of moment occurring during the voyage.

FOOTNOTES:

[15] I shall occasionally make a slight mention of our anchoring places, which, until now, have seldom or never been visited, as it will be of great service to my brother officers, in the event of their making a similar voyage to my own. I am sure those readers to whom such details are of little importance, will willingly bear with me in this.

[16] Bondsmen are those who borrow a sum of money, and serve their creditors until it is repaid. As it is very difficult, indeed almost impossible, for them to do this, they remain ever after in a state of bondage, little better, in fact, than actual slavery, as according to their customs the creditor may assume the power of disposing of them to another.

[17] Erected in 1773 with the help of God.

[18] This bird, which bears much resemblance to a blue pigeon, is celebrated in the Moluccas for the part it takes in planting the nutmeg tree. They strip the nut and swallow it, but the mace alone is digested, and the nut, which is discharged entire, soon sprouts and becomes a tree. When these are discovered they are usually transplanted into nutmeg parks.

CHAPTER VII.

LAKOR.

Description of the Island Lakor.—Coral Banks.—Shyness of the Inhabitants.—Productions.—Singular Expedition.—Childish Litigiousness and obstinate Implacability.—Native Hospitality.—Customs and Dress of the People.

The island Lakor bears a perfect resemblance to a dry coral bank, raised about twenty feet above the level of the sea. Patches of sand are only to be met with here and there, and ground fit for the formation of gardens is even more scarce. The sandy places are planted with cocoa-nut groves, but besides these there are few large trees; short plants and shrubs, which are probably of importance only to the botanist, covering the remainder of the island, except a few parts, where spots of ground are planted with yams or other roots. Most of the necessaries of life are imported from the other islands.

Under these circumstances it cannot be expected that the population of the island is very great. According to the statements of the most trustworthy islanders it amounts only to between eight hundred and a thousand souls, but a correct account is not to be looked for, as the chiefs themselves do not know with exactness the number of their people. Throughout the island there are only two Christians, the remainder being all heathens.

With a light south-south-east wind we sailed to the eastward along the north side of the island, as close as possible to the shore, to look for a good anchoring place, for the pilot was as little acquainted with the island as myself. We could not approach sufficiently near to the easternmost of the two villages which lie here, so we anchored in seven fathoms, on a patch of sand and stones, off the western one, and moored the brig with a warp fixed to the reef which lines the shore. The shore is very steep to, which rendered our anchorage unpleasant and insecure. This occurs on every part of the north coast of the island. The inhabitants informed me, that during the west monsoon there is good anchorage between Moa and Lakor, opposite to the village of Mowai, but I had no leisure to examine it in person during our stay.

In the evening of the 10th of July, after we had come to an anchor, I went on shore with the interpreters, when I found, to my great disappointment, that all the inhabitants had taken flight on our appearance, with the exception of three aged women, whose language was totally unintelligible to us. In the course of an hour, after they had been wandering about the neighbourhood like strayed sheep, several men approached us, who informed us, as we understood them, that their chiefs were now upon the island Moa, but would probably return during the night. This did not appear to be very probable, and I thought it more likely that they had fled into the interior, which proved to be the case; for the following day, having left the interpreters on shore all night to inspire them with confidence, I was fortunate enough to collect chiefs and people, when I informed them of the purport of my visit.

This island was formerly under subjection to Moa, and the Orang Tua resorted to it occasionally, to offer homage to the representatives of the Dutch Government there; but now every nigri, or small district, was under its own government, and perfectly independent of the chiefs of Moa. Neither the Dutch East India Company, nor the Government, ever had a garrison on Lakor. It was on this account that our unexpected arrival proved so alarming to the natives, and their uneasiness had been increased by knowing that some of their villages were in a state of war with each other; a breach of the peace that was always punished severely in the time of the Company.

It was not without great difficulty that I was enabled to inspire the natives with confidence, and to this end, whenever good words would not answer the purpose, I made use of serious threats, which have much more effect on these ignorant people than any negociations. Lakor was of too little importance to us for me to remain there long, I therefore hurried my proceedings as much as possible, and in two days time every thing was completed. I named a certain Bastiaan Bimar as their Upper Orang Kaya, and installed the various village chiefs with the customary solemnities, after which I gave them strong injunctions to live in peace, unity and subordination to their rulers, and presented them with some rice, arrack and cloth, together with a Dutch flag, the latter of which was a very acceptable present.

During my short stay I was constantly employed in deciding all sorts of petty differences, for the people live in a state of great disunion, and without the interference of the Government, or of European traders, they remain obstinately irreconcilable on the slightest quarrel. Neither do they acknowledge the authority of their chiefs unless they have been installed by the Dutch Government.

During a journey which I made inland, accompanied by my huntsman and my interpreter, to endeavour to find some game, and to view the condition of the interior, my attention was excited by a great number of caves, containing live pigs, which on this island arrive at a tolerably large size. We encountered also large flocks of sheep, which form a most important branch of the wealth of the people. They also possess buffaloes, but these are chiefly herded on the southern parts of the island. Throughout the journey I found the ground to consist of hard coral rocks overgrown with short plants, among which small plantations of yam and Indian corn were occasionally met with, while the beach was planted with cocoa-nut trees.

No wells are to be found on the island: the natives, therefore, collect the water, which falls during the rains, in large pits, where it seems to keep very well for a long time.

While on the excursion mentioned above, a troop of people, about two hundred and fifty in number, belonging to the villages on the south coast of the island, passed by us, every man being armed, as they were then at war with the people of the northern parts of the island. On approaching the village they ranged themselves two and two, carrying themselves with an air of haughtiness, while a man walked at their head waving an old Dutch flag fastened to the end of a bamboo. Behind him was borne a chair, on which was placed a baton of the former East India Company, and an old felt hat, and in the middle of the procession a child of three years old was carried by a female. I followed them at a little distance without being observed. On arriving in the village the chair was placed before the idol, the people squatting round it, without laying aside their weapons. When I approached them some time afterwards, I found them in the same position.

The chair, with its contents, had formerly been the property of the late Orang Kaya of the south coast. The child we had seen was his son, who was proposed to me as his successor. Until he could fulfil the office, the Government was entrusted to his uncle.

As usual, the differences among the islanders were soon settled by me, and the event of this general reconciliation was celebrated by a great feast, at which they pledged themselves to continued friendship. The reconciliation between these people was conducted in a similar manner to that between children who have quarrelled. Having first asked permission to speak, they commenced blaming and accusing each other, after which they held out their right hands, and requested me to join them. This being performed they took a little siri from each other's boxes, when the ceremony of reconciliation was completed. The elders of the parties commenced, and they were followed by their juniors, but the women had nothing to do with the matter, being totally disregarded.

The siri boxes, which are in general use among these islanders, are made of plaited rushes, their length being five and their breadth four inches. They are carried behind them, stuck into the tjedako or waist-belt; and whenever two friends meet, the one takes some siri out of the box of the other.

Another custom obtains among these people, which bears a resemblance to the universal hospitality of the Arabs. Strangers, who may visit their island, or touch there during their voyages, are supplied with as many yams and cocoa-nuts as they can consume, without any remuneration being expected in return. On more than one occasion I had opportunities of being an eyewitness to these acts of hospitality. The Orang Kaya of Mowai, on the island of Moa, being unable to visit me during my stay on that island, came over to see me on Lakor in his jonko, which was hauled up on the beach, while he took up his residence in a cleft in the rocks. He had brought no provisions for himself or his people, and when I asked him how they would maintain themselves, he told me that he had no difficulty on that point, since he took what he required out of the plantations of the inhabitants, who would do the same when they visited him. The rice and other provisions which I gave him during his stay, were very thankfully received. On my demanding his reason for thus taking up his residence outside the village, he informed me that he was not on the best of terms with the people of Lakor, while at the same time he was acting up to an old usage, their attachment to which was proved by the fact of two Christians, who were of the party, refusing, as well as the others, to pass the night in the houses of their hosts.

Although there were only two Christian inhabitants on the island, these, like their neighbours of the same persuasion, distinguished themselves from the others by their mode of dress. The common costume is much the same throughout the group. That of the men consists of a badju or loose coat of calico, flowered or striped blue and red, with pantaloons and sarong of the same materials; while the women wear a badju, and a sarong or petticoat, the upper edge being carelessly twisted round the waist. The Mohammedans are distinguished from the others by a handkerchief on the head, arranged like a turban. The Christians, on the other hand, equally prize an European hat, those of the upper classes being distinguished by coats, breeches, shoes and stockings, after our fashion, while the Christians of the lower ranks, who wear the usual native dress, have their clothes dyed black, those of the heathens and Mohammedans being invariably of a lighter colour.

CHAPTER VIII.

LUAN.

Arrival at the Island Luan.—Dangerous Passage.—Our Reception by the People.—Commerce and Fisheries.—The Christians of Luan.—Their Customs and Dispositions.—Hospitality and Good Nature of the Inhabitants.—Hazardous Situation on leaving the Island.

After having thus completed our duties on Lakor in as short a time as possible, we pursued our voyage to Luan, and stood towards the reefs which enclose that island, with the view of passing over them. Here I had another opportunity of proving that implicit confidence was not to be placed in the pilot, who had assured me that he was well acquainted with the place; for, while standing towards the reefs under easy sail, our depth suddenly decreased to four fathoms, and the anchor, which was immediately let go, had scarcely touched the ground, when it was found that there were only sixteen feet water under the bows. Had it not been for our cautious mode of proceeding, the brig would assuredly have been run upon the rocks. Fortunately the wind was favourable, and the anchor was soon weighed again, when we stood out to sea. The boats were sent away to look out for a channel, but as none was discovered, I determined to stand off and on with the brig.

The island Luan, which is about fourteen miles in circumference, being high, is visible at a considerable distance. An extensive reef, studded with islets, surrounds it, within which there is a depth of two fathoms, affording good anchorage to small trading vessels. The islets to the north-east of Luan are about four miles distant from the main island. Close outside these the reef is steep to, so that they may be safely approached by a ship.

Luan is inhabited by from two hundred to three hundred families, who reside in villages placed very near to each other on the north-east side of the island, at the foot of the mountain. The adjacent islets are not peopled, but they are occasionally visited by the inhabitants of Luan, who have gardens on them, while they also afford a resting place to those engaged in the trepang fishery.

After we had again got under sail, and I had clearly ascertained that there was no possibility of our running in over the reef without incurring the risk of sticking fast, we fired two guns, upon which two boats put off from the shore, containing the native chiefs, who came on board to pay their respects. I acquainted them in a few words with the object of my visit, and promised to go on shore to transact business on the following day, the 17th of July, when I left the brig with M. Dielwaart, the secretary and the interpreters, in two boats manned with European seamen, under a salvo from the guns, and other customary ceremonies. We soon reached the shore, where we were welcomed by a number of people of both sexes, who had assembled on the beach to receive us, and were conducted by them into their villages, which were only separated from each by stone walls. In the centre village, chairs, benches and tables had been placed for our accommodation, under the shelter of awnings composed of boats' sails. We here held a preliminary meeting of the chiefs, according to the instructions of the Government, and then took possession of two houses which had been prepared for our reception, abundance of provisions being supplied us by the people, as had been the case on the islands we had previously visited.

The inhabitants of Luan, who bear much resemblance to those of Roma, have arrived at a tolerably high state of civilization. The greater part take pride in calling themselves Christians; but they nevertheless live on good terms with the heathens, who here, as elsewhere, are considered as their subjects and inferiors. The inhabitants reside in four villages, situated in a line close to each other, each village having a separate chief. These are exceedingly jealous of each other, and strangers who visit them must pay especial attention to this particular, and carefully abstain from taking more notice of one than of another, since opposite conduct would assuredly lead to serious discord among these otherwise good-natured and peaceful islanders. This circumstance rendered the distribution of the Government presents a matter of greater difficulty than I had found it to be elsewhere.

Traders from Macassar, Amboyna and Banda, annually visit the island to purchase tortoise-shell and trepang. This last production is here found of a better quality than on any of the adjacent islands, and it affords a great source of riches to the natives. The trade of the island is carried on upon the barter system, specie being little used. Cloth, which is in great demand, forms the chief import, so that even European merchants might make great profit by disposing of these articles here.

The trepang, which is so much sought for by the Chinese, and forms one of the chief articles of their trade with these parts, is a sort of sea-slug, of which I shall give a more full description hereafter. The Chinese consider them as a great delicacy, and they therefore have as great a taste for them as for the edible birds'-nests, the last of which are sometimes sold at the rate of four thousand Spanish dollars the picul (133lbs. avoirdupoise.) When a trader arrives at Luan for the purpose of obtaining a supply of trepang, he commences by advancing goods to the natives, in proportions suited to the quantity he requires. The people then collect, and go out in search of the slug, which is found in the greatest abundance on the reefs, in from eight to ten feet water. When the tide is high they are taken by means of a fork or harpoon, but at low water they are easily caught by the hand. The fishery, which is only continued until a sufficient quantity has been obtained to supply the trader, rarely lasts more than three or four days, and it can only be followed with good success during the change of the monsoon. They never keep a stock in hand; and should no traders arrive among them during the year, the fishery is totally neglected. They have, indeed, but few inducements to carry it on with vigour, for a single fishing excursion will supply their wants. It is surprising that the people of the neighbouring islands do not come here occasionally to partake of the abundance of trepang which the reefs afford; for, although the people of Luan claim the exclusive privilege of fishing in the surrounding waters, they take little trouble in preserving it. The traders, whose capital consists of cloth, iron ware, gongs, &c., obtain the trepang at the rate of from twenty to twenty-five guilders the picul, and therefore make an enormous profit on disposing of it to the Chinese. Hogs and goats also form an article of export from Luan. The first, especially, are fattened without much difficulty or expense, on the shells of young cocoa-nuts and on the pith of the sago-tree.

Fowls and ducks are in such abundance on the island, that the natives care little about taking the fish which swarm in the adjacent waters. Their habitations, like those of their neighbours, are very small, rarely exceeding twenty feet in length and ten in breadth. The roofs are thatched with the leaves of the palm-tree, which is found to resist the rays of the sun better than tiles or slates, while at the same time it affords perfect shelter from the rains which fall almost daily during the west monsoon. The floor of the house is raised four or five feet from the ground on wooden piles; and the interior, which contains only a few benches, and a stone fire-place for cooking their simple meals, is lighted by holes in the walls and roof, and by two doors, one at each end of the house, which are left open night and day.

Although among the inhabitants there are many who call themselves Christians, there is no building exclusively appropriated to worship, divine service being usually performed in one of the largest of the houses. Very few of them can read or write, and their knowledge of our religion consists only in doctrines that have been handed down from father to son. During our stay M. Kam baptized more than one hundred and fifty of these islanders, and united several couples in matrimony. It was laughable to see the men and women, young and old, taking my seamen by the arm, and dragging them to the spot where the religious ceremonies were being performed, that they might become their godfathers. The sailors, who, for the most part, were lively young men, put rather a long face on the matter; but I must say it to their praise, that they behaved with the greatest respectability, and never forgot themselves for a moment. As my men always conducted themselves well, I willingly allowed them recreation on shore; and experience has proved to me that those who have the least indulgence of this description, are always the most difficult to manage.

During the 17th, 18th, and 19th of July, I was constantly employed in arranging the affairs of the people of Luan, and in renewing the friendship which formerly existed between them and ourselves. In the name of the Government I distributed the presents, confirmed the chiefs in their governments with the customary solemnities, and drew up their certificates of appointment. Many of the batons presented to former chiefs by the old East India Company, were still in the possession of the natives, together with their certificates, the latest of which bore the date of 1777, so that in all probability the island had not been visited by a Dutchman for a period of nearly fifty years.

It appeared to me to be very remarkable, that they stedfastly refused to permit my appointing any one as their head chief. In spite of all my arguments in favour of such an appointment, they continued obstinate, and it would not have been possible for me to succeed, unless I had resorted to absolute command. They assured me that up to this time they had always lived in peace and unity under the separate government of their various chiefs, and I therefore allowed them to have their own way, which appeared to give universal satisfaction. I subsequently endeavoured to induce them to carry their goods for sale to Amboyna or Banda, and gave them other advice which had for its object the increase of their prosperity; and I had the satisfaction of perceiving that they duly appreciated it. Men and women showed a confidence in, and friendship towards, our Government, which I should find it difficult to describe in appropriate terms. At the general meetings some of them often came forward, and, kissing my hand, entreated that the Government would hereafter bear them in remembrance, and take an active part in the management of their affairs. I promised them that I would faithfully inform our colonial rulers of their numerous good qualities, and would at the same time request that a teacher should be sent to them to instruct their children in useful knowledge, and in the observances of the Christian faith.

The day before my departure from the island, the armed seamen were sent on board, to the great regret of the people, who earnestly requested me to stay a few days longer. Their farewells to our seamen were truly affecting; and those only who are acquainted with the warm dispositions of these people, can conceive how strong a friendship had grown up between them and us in so short a time. When, at length, on the afternoon of the 19th of July, I prepared to return on board, I was accompanied by at least seven-eighths of the people. Amid repeated good wishes they conducted us to our boats, showing us every attention in their power. They carried us into the boats on litters, and I was here again detained some time by the fair islanders, young and old, who crowded around me to take leave.

The proofs of friendship, confidence and regard, which all my fellow voyagers, as well as myself, experienced from the people of Luan, were greater than any we had met with elsewhere. The continued kindness of these islanders was the more striking, from its bearing undeniable marks of sincerity; indeed, it perfectly accorded with their usual conduct, for I never met with more harmony, contentment and toleration, more readiness to afford mutual assistance, more domestic peace and happiness, nor more humanity and hospitality, than among the simple inhabitants of Luan.

On the day of my departure a strong south-east wind arose and created a turbulent sea, for which reason the islanders wished me to delay my departure; but having once made up my mind to go, I entered the boat and put off for the brig. Some prahus endeavoured to accompany me, but the sea run so high that these were forced to return; and I continued with the boat alone. When we crossed the outside of the reef the boat was already half full, and it was not without much danger and difficulty that we reached the brig, by which time we were just upon the point of sinking. The other boat, in which M. Kam was embarked, remained on shore until the following day, when it came off, accompanied by many of our native friends, who, in addition to the kindness they had already shown us, brought us presents of all sorts of fruits and refreshments which the island afforded. It was perfectly impossible to refuse them, and I returned the compliment as well as I could, by presenting them with various articles that I thought might be useful to them.

On the 19th of July we stood away from the island, impressed with strong feelings of thankfulness for the unconstrained and straightforward kindness of its peaceable and fortunate inhabitants. None but those who have been placed in a like situation can form a conception of the feelings we experienced, when this happy island faded from our view.

CHAPTER IX.

BABA.

Voyage towards Banda.—Remarks on the Islands Sermatta, Teon and Nila.—Arrival at Banda.—Humanity of an Orang-Kaya.—Description of the Island Baba.—Great Fear and Distrust of the Inhabitants.—Their Manners and Customs.—The Island Wetang.—Cause of the Distrust of the Natives.—Murderous and plundering Propensities of the People of Aluta.—Disturbances between the Inhabitants of Tepan and Aluta.

From the hospitable island of Luan we steered our course for Banda. Nothing worthy of remark occurred during the voyage; but I will take this opportunity of making a few remarks on some islands which lay near our route, and which, many years past, were in connection with our Government.

The island Sermatta is composed of a high ridge of hills, extending east and west, the sides of which run steep off into the sea. As the island is thinly inhabited, and at the same time affords no shelter to shipping, it is of little importance to strangers. The inhabitants are under subjection to the people of Luan, to which island they bring rice, edible roots, Indian corn and cattle, receiving in exchange cloth, and other necessary articles. During my stay at Luan I endeavoured, without success, to induce some of these islanders to come with me; they appeared to be very shy and fearful, which is not surprising when it is taken into consideration that their island is never visited by trading vessels, while the people themselves do not extend their voyages beyond Luan.

Teon, to the east-north-east of Damma, is hilly, and of moderate height. It is uninhabited, and the channel between it and Nila is rendered very unsafe by a number of reefs, which require the greatest precaution on the part of the navigator, should he attempt to pass through it.

The island Nila consists of a high round hill, on the north side of which there is anchorage for small vessels. It is inhabited by a few heathens, who, at the changing of the monsoons, visit Banda to dispose of their hogs, fowls and cocoa-nuts, which appear to form the sole products of the island.

On the 22nd of July we anchored in the Roads of Banda, where we received on board provisions and water, and were provided with a fresh supply of goods as presents to the native chiefs. During our stay we experienced some heavy squalls from off the island of Great Banda, with very rainy weather.