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TREES AND SHRUBS FOR ENGLISH GARDENS

THE CLUSTER PINE (Pinus Pinaster).

The "Country Life" Library.

TREES & SHRUBS

FOR

ENGLISH GARDENS

BY

E. T. COOK.

SECOND EDITION.

PUBLISHED BY

1908.

PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION

It cannot be urged against this work that it travels along a path already well worn, for the subject of trees and shrubs for English gardens, though almost inexhaustible, has never been so fully treated and illustrated as it deserves. The book may have many defects, but its pages will show that an honest effort has been made to offer helpful and instructive information to the many who wish to know more of the beauty of trees and shrubs.

In writing this book, the labour of my spare hours for many months, I have been greatly helped by Mr. Bean, the assistant-curator of the Royal Gardens, Kew, whose deep knowledge of the subject has been willingly imparted; and by Miss Jekyll, to whom I am indebted for many valuable suggestions and notes. Among others to whom grateful thanks are tendered are Mrs. Davidson, Mr. J. Clark, Mr. Dallimore, and Mr. S. W. Fitzherbert.

Some of the chapters have already appeared in the Garden, with the object of making known as widely as possible the importance of the most beautiful trees and shrubs for English woodland and pleasure-grounds.

The illustrations will show how a shrub, so often stunted and mutilated by unwise pruning, becomes beautiful when allowed to develop naturally.

The illustrations have their own teaching value, and in this matter also I desire to thank many willing helpers, especially Miss Jekyll, Miss Willmott, and Mr. Crump, of the Madresfield Court Gardens. Many of them are from photographs taken in the Royal Gardens, Kew. Under the present director (Sir William Thiselton-Dyer) much has been done in the judicious grouping of plants. Here is a living place of instruction open to all.

Those who desire to know more about trees and shrubs than it is possible to give in this book should consult such famous works as Loudon's "Arboretum Britannicum" (8 vols.), and "Encyclopædia of Trees and Shrubs"; Professor Sargent's "Silva of North America," and "Forest Flora of Japan"; "Manual of Coniferæ," by Messrs. James Veitch & Sons; "The Pinetum," by George Gordon; The "Bamboo Garden," by Lord Redesdale; Sir Joseph Hooker's "Rhododendrons of the Sikkim Himalaya"; and the excellent Kew Hand-list of Trees and Shrubs. Much information can also be gleaned from the volumes of Garden and Forest (American), edited by Professor Sargent, but not now in publication.

The nomenclature at Kew—that is, according to the Index Kewensis—is that adopted in this book.

It is the wish and hope of the author, whose notes, taken during many years, are embodied, that the book may do something to make English gardens more beautiful and interesting, and that it may win many to see the better ways of planting; also that it may be the means of bringing forward the many trees and shrubs of rare charm that are generally unknown or unheeded.

E. T. C.

November 1902.

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION

This edition has been thoroughly revised to render it as useful as possible to those who desire a larger acquaintance with the many beautiful trees and shrubs that are hardy in this country. I must tender my heartiest thanks to Mr. William Atkinson (Messrs. Fisher, Son, & Sibray) for his valuable help in preparing this edition. Many of the illustrations represent trees and shrubs in the Royal Gardens, Kew, which are not only beautiful in themselves, but are the centre of scientific research.

E. T. C.

March 1908.

CONTENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

TREES AND SHRUBS

CHAPTER I

WANT OF VARIETY A BLEMISH

There is a sad want of variety amongst evergreen and deciduous shrubs in the average English garden. Faith is placed in a few shrubs with a reputation for robbing the soil of its goodness and making a monotonous ugly green bank, neither pleasant to look at nor of any protective value. As one who knows shrubs well and the way to group them says, "Even the landscape gardeners, the men who have the making of gardens—with, of course, notable exceptions—do not seem to know the rich storehouse to draw from." Very true is this. We see evidence of it every day. The mixed shrubbery is fondly clung to as a place for all shrubs, whether flowering or otherwise, and the result is a thicket of growths, a case indeed of a survival of the fittest. There are other shrubs than Privet in this fair world of ours, and as for providing shelter, the wind whistles through its bare stems and creates a draught good for neither man, beast, nor plant. Of the cherry laurel again there is far too much in gardens. Few other plants can stand against its greedy, searching roots, and its vigorous branches and big leaves kill other leaf-growth near them. Grown in the proper way, that is, as an isolated shrub, with abundance of space to develop its graceful branches and brilliant green leaves, the Cherry Laurel is a beautiful evergreen; it is quite happy in shady, half-wooded places. But grown, as it is so often, jammed up and smothering other things, or held in bounds by a merciless and beauty-destroying knife, its presence has not been to the advantage of English gardening.

When the planting season comes round, think of some of the good shrubs not yet in the garden, and forget pontic Rhododendron, Laurel, Aucuba, and Privet. By this is not meant rare shrubs, such as may only be had from the few nurseries of the very highest rank or from those that make rare shrubs a speciality, but good things that may be grown in any garden and that appear in all good shrub catalogues.

CHINESE GUELDER ROSE.

Perhaps no beautiful and now well-known shrub is more neglected than beautiful Exochorda grandiflora (the Pearl Bush). Its near relatives, the Spiræas, are in every shrubbery, but one may go through twenty and not see Exochorda. Even of the Spiræas one does not half often see enough of S. Thunbergi, a perfect milky way of little starry bloom in April and a most shapely little bush, or the double-flowered S. prunifolia, with its long wreaths of flower-like double thorn or minute white roses and its autumn bravery of scarlet foliage. The hardy Magnolias are not given the opportunity they deserve of making our gardens lovely in earliest summer. Who that has seen Magnolia stellata in its April dress of profuse white bloom and its summer and autumn dignity of handsome though not large foliage, would endure to be without it? or who would not desire to have the fragrant chalices of M. soulangeana, with their outside staining of purple, and M. conspicua, of purest white in the early months of March and April? And why does not every garden hold one, at least, of the sweet Chimonanthus, offering, as it does in February, an abundance of its little blooms of a fragrance so rich and powerful that it can be scarcely matched throughout the year?

A GROUPING OF MAGNOLIA STELLATA.

Cassinia fulvida, still known in nurseries by its older name of Diplopappus, in winter wears its fullest dress of tiny gold-backed leafage in long graceful sprays, that are borne in such profusion that they only beg to be cut to accompany the rare flowers of winter that we bring indoors to sweeten and enliven our rooms.

Of small-flowering trees none is lovelier than the Snowy Mespilus (Amelanchier), and for a tree of somewhat larger size the good garden form of the native Bird Cherry is beautiful in the early year. The North American Halesia (the Snowdrop Tree) should be in every garden, either as a bush or tree, every branch hung in May with its full array of pendent bloom of the size and general shape of Snowdrops, only of a warm and almost creamy instead of a cold snow-white colour.

Few spring-flowering shrubs are more free and graceful than Forsythia suspensa, and if it can be planted on a slight eminence and encouraged to throw down its many-feet-long graceful sprays it then exhibits its best garden use. The Chinese Viburnum plicatum is another shrub well known but unfairly neglected, flowering with the earliest Irises. Grouped with the grand Iris pallida dalmatica it is a thing never to be forgotten.

ÆSCULUS PARVIFLORA (late July).

Æsculus (Pavia) parviflora, blooming in July when flowering shrubs are rare, is easily grown and strikingly handsome, and yet how rarely seen! Calycanthus floridus, with its spice-scented blooms of low-toned crimson, also a late summer flower, is a fine thing in a cool, well-sheltered corner, where the sun cannot burn the flowers. The Rose Acacia (Robinia hispida), trained on a wall or house, is as beautiful as any Wistaria, and the quality of the low-toned rosy bloom of a much rarer colour. It is quite hardy, but so brittle that it needs close and careful wall training or other support. To name a few others in the same kind of category, but rather less hardy, the Sweet Bay is the noblest of evergreen bushes or small trees; the Tamarisk, with its grey plumes of foliage and summer flower-plumes of tenderest pink, is a delightful plant in our southern counties, doing especially well near the sea. Clethra alnifolia, against a wall or in the open, is a mass of flower in late summer, and the best of the Hibiscus syriacus, or Althæa frutex, the shrubbery representatives of Mallows and Hollyhocks, are autumn flowers of the best class. A bushy plant of half-woody character that may well be classed among shrubs, and that was beloved of our grandmothers, is Leycesteria formosa, a delightful thing in the later autumn. The large-fruited Euonymus (Spindle Tree) is another good thing too little grown.

DOUBLE-FLOWERED SLOE OR BLACKTHORN.

For a peaty garden there are many delightful plants in the neglected though easy-to-be-had list. One of these is the beautiful and highly fragrant Azalea occidentalis, all the better that the flowers and leaves come together and that it is later than the Ghent Azaleas. Then there are the two sweet-scented North American Bog Myrtles, Myrica cerifera and Comptonia asplenifolia, the charming little Leiophyllum buxifolium, of neatest bushy form, and the Ledum palustre, whose bruised leaves are of delightful aromatic fragrance; Vaccinium pennsylvanicum, pretty in leaf and flower and blazing scarlet in autumn, and Gaultheria Shallon, a most important sub-shrub, revelling in moist peat or any cool sandy soil.

These examples by no means exhaust the list of desirable shrubs that may be found for the slightest seeking. This brief recital of their names and qualities is only meant as a reminder that all these good things are close at hand, while many more are only waiting to be asked for.

CHAPTER II

ORNAMENTAL PLANTING IN WOODLAND

Where woodland adjoins garden ground, and the one passes into the other by an almost imperceptible gradation, a desire is often felt to let the garden influence penetrate some way into the wood by the planting within the wood of some shrubs or trees of distinctly ornamental character.

Such a desire very naturally arises—it is wild gardening with the things of larger growth; but, like all forms of wild gardening (which of all branches of gardening is the most difficult to do rightly, and needs the greatest amount of knowledge), the wishes of the planter must be tempered with extreme precaution and restraint. It does not do to plant in the wild garden things of well-known garden character. This is merely to spoil the wood, which, in many cases, is already so good that any addition would be a tasteless intrusion of something irrelevant and unsuitable.

IN THE WOODLAND AT KEW, SHOWING TREE AND SHRUB BY GRASSY WAY.

Still, there are certain wooded places where a judicious planting would be a gain, and there are a certain number of trees and shrubs which those who have a fair knowledge of their ways, and a true sympathy with the nature of woodland, recognise as suitable for this kind of planting. They will be found in these classes: Native growths that are absent or unusual in the district, such as the Spindle Tree (Euonymus), White Beam, Service Tree, White and Black Thorn, Wild Cherry, Bird Cherry, Wild Guelder Rose (Viburnum Opulus), and V. Lantana, Honeysuckle, Wild Roses, Juniper, and Daphne Laureola.

WAYFARING TREE (Viburnum Lantana); A NATIVE SHRUB ON CHALK.

Then, among cultivated trees and shrubs, those that are nearly related to our wild kinds, including some that are found in foreign woodlands that have about the same latitude and climate as our own. Among these will be Quinces and Medlars, many kinds of ornamental Cratægus, Scarlet Oaks, various Elders and Crabs, and the grand Pyrus americana, so like our native Mountain Ash, but on a much larger scale.

A very careful planting with trees and shrubs of some of these and, perhaps, other allied kinds, may give additional beauty and interest to woodland. Differences of soil will, of course, be carefully considered, for if a piece of woodland were on chalky soil, a totally different selection should be made from one that would be right for a soil that was poor and sandy.

In moist, sandy, or, still better, peaty ground, especially where there is a growth of Birches and Scotch Firs, and not many other kinds of trees, a plantation of Rhododendrons may have a fine effect. But in this case it is better to use the common R. ponticum only, as a mixture of differently coloured kinds is sure to give a misplaced-garden look, or an impression as if a bit of garden ground had missed its way and got lost in the wood.

CHAPTER III

GROUPING OF TREES AND SHRUBS

If this subject were considered with only a reasonable amount of thought, and the practice of it controlled by good taste, there is nothing that would do more for the beauty of our gardens or grounds. Nothing can so effectually destroy good effect as the usual senseless mixture of deciduous and evergreen shrubs that, alas! is so commonly seen in gardens—a mixture of one each of a quantity of perhaps excellent things planted about three feet apart. There would be nothing to be said against this if it were the deliberate intention of any individual, for, as a garden is for the owner's happiness, it is indisputably his right to take his pleasure in it as he will, and if he says, "I have only space for a hundred plants, and I wish them to be all different," that is for him to decide. But when the mixture is made from pure ignorance or helplessness it is then that advice may be of use, and that the assurance may be given that there are better ways that are just as easy at the beginning, and that with every year will be growing on towards some definite scheme of beauty, instead of merely growing up into a foolish tangle of horticultural imbecility.

If the intending planter has no knowledge it is well worth his while to take advice at the beginning, not to plant at random and to feel, a few years later, first doubt, and then regret, and then, as knowledge grows, to have to face the fact that it is all wrong and that much precious time has been lost.

How to group is a large question, depending on all the conditions of the place under consideration. Whether a group is to be of tall or short growing shrubs or trees, whether it is to be of three or three hundred, and so on. The knowledge that can answer is the knowledge of gardening of the better kind. The whole thing should be done carefully on paper beforehand, or there will again be repented the error of huddled single plants. The groups will have to be well shaped and well sized and well related to each other and all that is near, or they may be merely a series of senseless blocks, not intelligently formed groups at all.

Then, in proper relation to the groups, single plants can be used with the best possible effect, as, for instance, a snowy Mespilus or a Cherry or a Pyrus floribunda against a dark massing of Yew or Holly; or a Forsythia suspensa casting out its long flowering branches from among bushes of Berberis. Then the fewer individuals will have their full value, while the larger masses will have dignity even when in leaf only, and their own special beauty at the time when they are in flower or fruit. For some flowering and fruiting bushes are best grouped, while a few are best seen standing alone, and it is only knowledge of good gardening that can guide the designer in his decisions on these points. Still it does not follow that a shrub or flowering tree cannot be used both for groups and single use, for such an one as the Forsythia just mentioned is also of charming effect in its own groups, with the red-tinted Berberis or the quiet-coloured Savins, or whatever be the lower growing bushy mass that is chosen to accompany it. Every one can see the great gain of such arrangements when they are made, but to learn to make them, and even to perceive what are the plants to group together, and why, that is the outcome of the education of the garden artist.

In the Royal Gardens, Kew, the best of plants may be seen and, to a considerable degree, the best ways of using them in gardens.

GROUPING OF SHRUB AND DAFFODIL.

The one-thing-at-a-time planting is always a safe guide, but as the planter gains a firmer grasp of his subject, so he may exercise more freedom in its application. Nearly every garden, shrubbery, and ornamental tree plantation is spoilt or greatly marred by too great a mixture of incongruous growths. Nothing wants more careful consideration. On the ground in the open air, and sitting at home quietly thinking, the question should be carefully thought out. The very worst thing to do is to take a nursery catalogue and make out from it a list of supposed wants. The right thing is to make a plan of the ground, to scale, if possible, though a rougher one may serve, and mark it all down in good time beforehand, not to wait until the last moment and then mark it; and not to send the list to the nursery till the ground is well forward for planting, so that the moment the plants come they may go to their places.

NATURAL GROUPING OF SHRUB IN ROUGH GROUND.

All this planning and thinking should be done in the summer, so that the list may go to the nursery in September, which will enable the nurseryman to supply the trees in the earliest and best of the planting season.

How good it would be to plant a whole hill-side on chalky soil with grand groupings of Yew or Box, or with these intergrouped, and how easy afterwards to run among these groupings of lesser shrubs; or to plant light land with Scotch Fir and Holly, Thorn and Juniper (just these few things grouped and intergrouped); or wastes of sandhills near the sea within our milder shores with Sea Buckthorn and Tamarisk, and Monterey Cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa), and long drifts of the handsome Blue Lyme Grass.

A mile of sandy littoral might be transformed with these few things, and no others than its own wild growths, into a region of delight, where noble tree form of rapid growth, tender colour of plume-like branch and bloom and brilliant berry, and waving blue grassy ribbons, equalling in value any of the lesser Bamboos, would show a lesson of simple planting such as is most to be desired but is rarely to be seen.

The other and commoner way is nothing but a muddle from beginning to end. A van-load of shrubs arrives from the nursery—one of each or perhaps not more than six of any kind. No plan is prepared, and the trees and shrubs are planted in the usual weary mixture, without thought or design. Generally there are three times too many for the space. It is a cruel waste and misuse of good things.

CHAPTER IV

HEATHY PATHS IN OUTER GARDEN SPACES

The subject of heathy paths comes within the scope of this book. We are not thinking of grass or gravel paths, but those in pleasure-grounds that are beyond the province of the trimly-kept garden, and yet have to be somewhat tamed from the mere narrow track such as serves for the gamekeeper on his rounds. Paths of this kind admit of varied treatment. The nature of the place and the requirements of those who use the paths will determine their general nature, and settle whether they are to be of turf or of something that must be dry in all weathers. But grass and gravel are not the only alternatives. One kind of path not often seen, but always pleasant, and at one time of year distinctly beautiful, can be made of the Common Heather (Calluna vulgaris). We know of such a path, 12 feet wide and some hundreds of feet long, carpeted with this native Heath, mown once a year, and feeling like a thick pile carpet to the feet; grey-green in summer, bronze-coloured in late autumn, and in the second and third weeks of August thickly set with short sprays of the low-toned pink of the Heather bloom. It is not so dry as a gravel path, but a good deal drier than grass, and has a pleasant feeling of elasticity that is absent in common turf.

Many are the pleasure-grounds in the south of England and Scotland where the soil is sandy and, perhaps, peaty. Any such can have these pleasant heathy paths. We have even seen them on a poor sandy clay, scarcely good enough to call loam, in Sussex; for Calluna, unlike the other Heaths, will grow willingly in clay. In the case quoted the plant was wild in the place.

In a Fir wood, the bare earth carpeted with needles always makes a suitable path, and one that is always dry; the only thing to correct is to fill up any places where the bare roots rise above the path level. For in these informal paths, where we want to look about and at the trees, there should be no danger of being tripped up. The path, of whatever nature, should be wide enough for two persons—5 feet to 6 feet is ample; but it should have quite a different character from the garden path, in that its edges are not defined or straightened.

SHRUB AND IRIS GROUPS BY WOODLAND.

One may often see in the outskirts of an old garden a dense wood that once was only a growth of shrubbery size. The walk was originally bordered by a Box edging, and there may have been a strip of flowers between it and the shrubs. Here and there one may still see a yard or two of straggling Box nearly 2 feet high. Of course, this edging should have been removed as soon as the place became a wood, for after a certain time its original use as a formal edging to a trim plantation ceased to exist.

Nothing is pleasanter in woodland than broad, grassy ways, well enough levelled to insure safety to an unheeding walker. In early spring, before the grass has grown any height, here is the place where Daffodils can best be seen and enjoyed, some in the clear grass and some running back in wide drifts into any side opening of the wood. If the grass is cut in June, when the Daffodil foliage is ripe, and again early in September, these two mowings will suffice for the year.

AZALEA GARDEN AT KEW (early Summer).

In many woody places where shade is fairly thick, if there is any grass it will probably be full of moss. No path-carpet is more beautiful than a mossy one; indeed, where grass walks from the garden pass into woodland, the mossy character so sympathetic to the wood should be treasured, and the moss should not be scratched out with iron rakes. Often in the lawn proper a mixture of moss and grass is desirable, though one has been taught that all moss is hateful. In such places, though it may be well to check it by raking out every four or five years, it should by no means be destroyed, for in the lawn spaces adjoining trees or woodland the moss is right and harmonious.

There are paths for the garden and paths for the wood. A mistaken zeal that would insist on the trimness of the straight-edged garden walk in woodland or wild is just as much misplaced as if by slothful oversight an accumulation of dead leaves or other débris of natural decay were permitted to remain in the region of formal terrace or parterre.

Heath paths should be made by either planting or sowing. The common ling (Calluna vulgaris) makes the best turf. If the ground is sown it should be of nearly pure sandy peat, or weeds would be troublesome. If the path is to be made by planting, it should be done with two-year-old seedlings—nothing larger—planted about 6 inches apart. The path when grown should be mown with a machine once a year, in autumn after the blooming time of the heath. There must be no grass.

CHAPTER V

TREES AND SHRUBS IN POOR SOILS

As there is vegetation to suit nearly all natural conditions, so those who find they have to undertake planting in poor, dry, hungry sands and gravels will find that there are plenty of trees and shrubs that can be used, though the choice is necessarily a more restricted one than they might make on better land. The very fact of the fewer number of available trees and shrubs may even be a benefit in disguise, as by obliging the planter to be more restricted in his choice the planting scheme will be all the more harmonious.

As to trees, Holly, Thorn, Juniper, Birch, Scotch Fir, and Mountain Ash are found wild on the poorest soils, and will even grow in almost pure sand. Oaks, though they never grow to the dimensions of the Oak of loamy woodlands, are abundant on poor soils, where they have a character of their own that is full of pictorial value. The lovely Amelanchier, daintiest of small trees, revels in sandy woods, as does also the Bird Cherry, another good native tree, while the Wild Cherry becomes a forest tree of large size and of loveliest bloom. Evergreen or Holm Oak and Arbutus are excellent in the south of England, enjoying the warmth and winter dryness of light soils.

Garden shrubs in general can be grown, though not so luxuriantly as on better soils, but some classes are especially successful on poor land such as Genista virgata. There are the Cistuses and Heaths, with Lavender and Rosemary, in the drier parts, and in the wetter places Kalmias, Andromedas, Rhododendrons, Ledums, Pernettyas, and Vacciniums, with the Candleberry Gale and the native Bog Myrtle, also Broom and Gorse, especially the Double Gorse. These, which are usually classed as peat shrubs, will succeed in any sandy soil with the addition of leaf-mould, and are among the most interesting and beautiful of our garden shrubs.

Those who garden on poor and dry soils should remember that though their ground has drawbacks it has also some compensations. Such soils do not dry in cracks and open fissures in hot weather, and do not present a surface of soapy slides in wet; they can be worked at all times of the year, except in hard frost; they are easy to hoe and keep clean of weeds and are pleasant and easy to work. They correct the tendency of strong soils to the making of a quantity of coarse rank growth, and they encourage the production of a quantity of flowers of good colour.

CHAPTER VI

PRUNING FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS

The art of pruning properly is one that is acquired by considerable practice and observation. The first is necessary that the actual work may be well and cleanly done, and it is only by observing the manner and times of flowering of the different trees and shrubs which go to constitute a well-kept pleasure-ground that the proper time to prune can be thoroughly understood. The manner of pruning varies considerably, some pinning their faith to a slanting cut towards a bud; some preferring a straight cut; while others again are content with simply slashing off the useless wood in the quickest possible manner. The former is the best method, as it does not present a surface for the lodgment of water, an important point with those shrubs that are of a pithy nature in the centre of the wood, as the presence of water will quickly cause the stems to rot and render the plant unsightly, even if it escapes serious injury. All stems that are an inch or more in diameter should be tarred over to keep out the wet, which either rots them directly or injures them indirectly by making a moist, congenial home for the various fungoid diseases to which so many of our exotic trees and shrubs are liable.

Many shrubs which have been in one place for some years, and which have become stunted or poorly flowered, are often given a new lease of life by a hard pruning in the winter, cutting away all the old wood entirely, and shortening the remainder. With a good feeding at the same time, they will throw up strong young shoots, full of vigour, which will bear fine and well-coloured flowers. Of course, a season of blooming will be lost by doing this, but it will be amply compensated for in after years by a healthy plant in place of a decrepit and unsightly one. The list appended includes practically every flowering tree and shrub hardy in this country, with the proper time of pruning it. Those not specified flower on the old wood.

When shrubs that by nature flower freely and are rightly placed with regard to soil and position refuse to bloom, root pruning will sometimes effect an alteration.

CEANOTHUS AZUREUS AT KEW.

Abelia.—This genus is barely hardy, and, in most localities, is usually pruned sufficiently or too much by frost. A moderate thinning of the shoots in spring is sufficient.

Acanthopanax.—There are three species of this genus hardy in this country, and of these A. ricinifolium requires no pruning beyond the cutting away of side-shoots to a single stem, as it attains the dimensions of a tree in Japan, its native country. A. sessiliflorum and A. spinosum are low-growing shrubs, and require an occasional thinning out, which is best done in late summer to allow the remainder to thoroughly ripen before winter.

CEANOTHUS AZUREUS, VAR. MARIE SIMON.

Actinidia.—A climbing genus, easily grown in warm, sheltered localities. They require very little pruning, but should be watched in spring when growth has commenced, or the twining shoots will get into a tangled and unsightly mass. Any growth not required should be cut away in winter.

Æsculus (Horse-Chestnut).—The common representative of this requires little or no pruning, but the other species are benefited by a thinning out of misplaced and useless branches in late summer to allow light and air to the centre of the tree. This is especially important to all the Æsculus in a young state. Æsculus parviflora should have a good thinning if the branches or suckers become at all thick, cutting all growths not required clean away from the base.

Akebia.—"Akebia quinata has flowered here, on an east wall, profusely for the last seventeen years, under the following pruning treatment: Cover the space allotted with the strongest shoots, and when new growth pushes from the eyes or spurs in the spring, do not regulate it, but summer-prune away all superfluous growth before it gets entangled. It is from 'spurs' that the flowers are produced, and the more these are kept clear, the more matured they become, and flower correspondingly."—E. M. in The Garden.

Amelanchier.—These should be pruned after the flowers are past, the removal of badly-placed and weakly shoots being all that is required. If the plants are becoming too large, they can be shortened back at the same time.

Amorpha.—If flowers are desired of A. fruticosa it should be kept thinned out, and not be cut back; but the flowers are not showy, and it is usually kept cut down every winter for the sake of its foliage. A. canescens should be cut down each spring to within two or three eyes of the old wood, as it flowers best on the young growth.

Andromeda.—The only recognised species of this genus is A. polifolia, which requires no pruning.

Aralia.—These should be kept to a single stem until they have attained a height of 6 to 8 feet, after which they may be allowed to branch, or be still kept to a single stem, as may be desired.

Arbutus.—An evergreen genus which requires no pruning.

Aristolochia.—A genus of climbers which succeed best if the shoots are not allowed to become too thick. The weakest should be cut away in winter.

Artemisia.—This genus is best known by its common representative, the Southernwood, but this and the other Artemisias should be cut down annually in a young state. When older, an occasional thinning out of the shoots in winter is sufficient.

Baccharis.—Of this, B. halimifolia flowers on the young wood and should be cut back annually, while B. patagonica should not be pruned at all.

Berberis.—Properly the Berberis requires no pruning, but the stronger-growing species, such as B. aristata, B. Lycium, B. virescens, B. vulgaris, &c., require an occasional thinning to keep them within bounds.

Berchemia.—A climbing genus which requires no pruning.

Bruckenthalia.—A dwarf-growing Ericaceous genus, the seed-pods of which should be removed as soon as the flowers are past, or the plants will be seriously weakened.

Bryanthus.—This should be treated the same as the last, which it somewhat resembles.

Buddleia.—Of these, B. variabilis, B. japonica, and B. intermedia flower on the young wood and require cutting back every winter to within two or three eyes of the old wood; B. globosa need not be pruned at all, except in a young state to keep it bushy; and B. paniculata only requires thinning out if it becomes too thick, which is not a very common occurrence.

Calluna (the Ling).—This and its numerous varieties should have the old flowers cut off as soon as they are past, and any long or straggling growth cut back at the same time.

Calophaca.—The solitary representative of this genus is rather inclined to become straggly if growing at all freely. When this is the case, the plant is benefited by the cutting back of the longer shoots in winter.

Calycanthus.—These require an occasional thinning of the branches, and any long shoots may be shortened with advantage.

Camellia.—These, which should be grown outdoors much more than they are, should be cut down if they get unhealthy or unshapely, which should be done in April. Otherwise no pruning is required.

Caragana.—Cut away all the straggling or misplaced branches.

Carmichælia.—Requires no pruning.

Cassandra.—See Calluna.

Cassinia.—These are grown more for their foliage than for their flowers, and should be cut down in the winter or early spring. This can be done annually or biennially according to whether the plants are growing strongly or not.

Cassiope.—See Calluna.

Catalpa.—This genus contains some of our handsomest flowering trees, all of which require careful pruning after the flowers are past, thinning out the weakly wood, and shortening any long branches.

Ceanothus.—Of these, C. americanus, C. azureus, C. integerrimus, and the garden hybrids, such as "Gloire de Versailles," "Marie Simon," "Ceres," &c., flower on the young wood, and should be cut back in spring, allowing only sufficient shoots to remain to form a well-balanced plant, and shortening them back to within two or three eyes of the old wood. The remaining species flower on the old wood, and merely require a shortening back of the stronger shoots and a thinning out of the weakly ones after the flowers are past.

Celastrus.—A climbing genus of strong and vigorous habit with showy fruits. They only require sufficient pruning in winter to keep them within bounds.

Cercis.—Requires no pruning, except such as may be necessary to make well-shaped plants, which should be done after flowering.

Chimonanthus.—The shoots of this should be shortened back after flowering, and if on a wall they should be spurred in.

Chionanthus.—See Cercis.

Choisya ternata.—This only needs thinning after the flowers are over and old wood removed.

Cistus.—Those which are hardy of this genus should be cut back each spring while in a young state, but when they have attained a flowering size no pruning is required. The cutting back of young plants induces a bushy habit, and also keeps them from weakening themselves by blooming and seeding.

Clematis.—The garden forms of this genus are divided into two sections, of which C. Jackmani, C. lanuginosa, C. Viticella, and C. aromatica (C. cærulea odorata) are the types of those which flower on the young wood, and which require cutting back close to the old wood in the winter; while C. florida, C. patens, and C. montana are the types of those which flower on the ripened wood of the previous year, and merely require a thinning out of weakly or unnecessary growth. Of species other than those mentioned above, C. Flammula, C. paniculata, and C. Vitalba flower on the young wood; and the remaining species are either herbaceous or flower on the old wood.

Clerodendron trichotomum.—Thin in spring.

Clethra.—These practically require no pruning, but long shoots may be shortened and weakly ones cut away with advantage.

Colutea.—These make better plants and flower later if they are cut back every winter. C. istria (a rare species) should not be cut down if flowers are desired.

Cornus.—The strong-growing shrubby Cornus, such as C. alba, C. Amomum, C. Baileyi, C. pubescens, and C. stolonifera require an annual thinning out, and those with brightly-coloured stems should be cut down every spring for their effect during the following winter. The remaining Cornus require little or no pruning.

Cotoneaster.—The large-growing species should be pruned in late summer, but only sufficiently to keep them within bounds; C. Simonsii requires cutting down annually while young to make it bushy, and the dwarf-growing kinds are best left alone.

Cratægus.—Keep the heads well thinned out to allow light and air to the centre of the tree. This should be done in late summer.

Cytisus.—These require very little pruning, with the exception of C. nigricans and C. capitatus, which flower on the young wood, and should be cut back annually. The other species and varieties make better plants if they are cut down each year while in a small state, but they should be left alone when they have attained flowering size.

Dabœcia (the Irish Heath).—Cut away all old flower stems in early winter.

Daphne.—Requires no pruning.

Desmodium.—These flower on the young wood, and should be cut nearly to the ground-line every spring.

Deutzia.—The old wood should be kept cut out of these, but no shortening of young shoots should be attempted.

Elæagnus.—These require an annual overhauling to keep them in good condition. This should be done in late summer, when the plants should be well thinned out, and all useless growth cut clean away.

Erica.—See Calluna.

Escallonia.—These are usually cut back by frost; but if they escape, E. rubra and E. punctata should have their long growths shortened back in spring, while the other hardy species need not be touched. E. macrantha simply needs thinning. All the smaller growths in the centre should be removed. E. philippiana does not like hard cutting back, but the old stumps must be cut out to make room for flowering wood.

PEARL BUSH (Exochorda grandiflora) SHOWING ITS NATURAL BEAUTY.

Exochorda.—These usually require no pruning, but if the plants are getting too large or unshapely, they should be cut back immediately after flowering.

Fatsia (Aralia Sieboldii).—This is usually cut by frost, but it stands a cutting back in spring, when new growth is soon made which will flower late in the following autumn.

Fothergilla.—Requires no pruning.

Garrya elliptica.—This always flowers on the previous year's wood. Need only be thinned to ripen the new growth.

Genista.—G. tinctoria flowers on the young wood, and should be cut back every spring. The other species of Genista should not be pruned, except to keep them in shape.

Halesia.—These are small trees or large shrubs, and should not be shortened back, but are improved if the growths are kept thinned out, which should be done after the flowers are past.

Halimodendron.—Requires no pruning.

Hamamelis.—Thin out regularly, as they are very apt to get thick and make weakly growths.

Hedysarum multijugum.—This flowers on the young wood, and should be cut back lightly each spring. The growths can also be pegged down to improve the plant, which is apt to get straggling.

Helianthemum.—Cut away all dead flowers and seed-pods after blooming.

Hibiscus.—Thin out in winter, but only shorten the longest shoots.

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA (unpruned plant).

Hydrangea.—These flower best on young wood, and should be cut down in winter. H. paniculata grandiflora should always be cut back to within two inches of the old wood.

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA AND VAR. GRANDIFLORA.

Hypericum.—These should be cut back fairly hard in early spring, as they all flower on the young growth.

Indigofera.—Cut down every spring, as they flower on the young wood.

Itea.—Keep the growths thinned and cut away all old wood.

Jamesia.—This should be treated as the preceding.

Jasminum.—J. fruticans and J. humile are shrubs which should be thinned regularly; and J. nudiflorum and J. officinale are climbers, which should be spurred in after flowering.

Kalmia.—Remove seed-pods as soon as the flowers are past.

Kerria.—Cut away the old wood to encourage the young growths, which yield the best flowers.

Laburnum.—These should be thinned after flowering, cutting away the old or weakly wood, and shortening any long or straggling shoots.

Lavandula.—Cut away all flower-spikes after they are past.

Ledum.—Remove seed-pods after flowering.

Lespedeza.—See Desmodium, which it much resembles.

Leucothoë.—L. axillaris and L. Catesbæi flower much better if the old growths are removed and strong young shoots encouraged. The rest of the genus require no pruning.

Leycesteria.—Thin out old growths every spring.

Ligustrum.—L. ovalifolium and its golden variety are all the better for being cut down each winter while in a young state. The remainder merely require an occasional thinning.

Liriodendron.—Requires no pruning.

Lonicera.—The shrubby Loniceras are nearly all inclined to become very thick and full of weakly shoots if not well looked after. A thinning out should take place after flowering is past. The climbing Honeysuckles should only be pruned sufficiently to keep them within bounds.

Lycium.—These should be served the same as the shrubby Loniceras, but the operation should be performed in autumn or winter, as they flower practically all the summer.

Lyonia.—Requires no pruning.

Magnolia.—Generally speaking, the Magnolias should not be pruned, but cut away useless or decaying wood. Every wound, however small, on a Magnolia should be tarred over immediately.

Microglossa.—The solitary shrubby representative of this is M. albescens, which should be cut down in winter, as it flowers best on the young wood.

Myrica.—An occasional thinning is sufficient for this genus.

Myricaria.—Flowering on the young wood; this should be cut back every spring.

Neillia.—Thin out every year after flowering is past, cutting back the old wood to strong young shoots.

Neviusia.—This requires the same pruning as Neillia.

Notospartium.—Requires no pruning.

Nuttallia.—The single species of this flowers in February, and is improved by a good thinning out of the old wood when blooming is past.

Olearia.—Requires no pruning.

Ononis.—O. rotundifolia should be cut down every winter, as it flowers on the young wood. The remaining species flower on the older wood, and need not be touched.

Osmanthus.—These should not be pruned unless a particular shape is desired, when the plants may be clipped with a pair of shears in spring.

Oxycoccus.—This is a small creeping genus allied to Vaccinium, and requires no pruning.

Oxydendron.—Remove seed-pods.

Paliurus.—This attains the dimensions of a small tree, and should be kept trimmed up for that purpose.

Parrotia.—Thin out in spring after the flowers are past.

Paulownia.—Keep to a single stem to a height of about 8 feet, and then allow it to branch. If used for sub-tropical bedding, it should be cut down to the ground every winter.

Peraphyllum.—The solitary hardy species of this should not be pruned or disturbed in any way if it can be avoided.

Periploca.—A climbing genus which should be thinned out in winter, and only shortened back if necessary.

Pernettya.—These should not be pruned at any time.

Philadelphus.—These should be thinned after flowering, and the old wood cut back to strong young shoots. This is especially important with P. microphyllus, P. coronarius, and P. Lemoinei and its varieties.

Phillyræa decora (Vilmoriniana).—This well-known shrub needs no pruning.

Photinia.—Requires no pruning.

Pieris.—Remove seed-pods.

Potentilla.—Thin out after flowering, and shorten any old wood back to strong young breaks.

Prunus.—When young, all the members of this genus that are grafted or budded are improved by being cut back each spring until they have attained a fair size and shape. More especially is this the case with the Almonds, double-flowered Peaches, and the various flowering Cherries. When older, they need only be thinned and the flowering Plums and Cherries kept spurred in, but not too hard. Prunus japonica, P. nana, and P. triloba should be cut down to strong young breaks after flowering, the resulting wood bearing better flowers than the old wood. If any of these three latter are grown on a wall they should be spurred back hard after blooming.

Ptelea.—When young, trim these to form small trees, and do not allow them to develop into ungainly bushes. When older, they require an occasional thinning. P. trifoliata var. aurea, a golden form which is not grown so much as it deserves to be, should be cut back annually or biennially, the young wood being better coloured and bearing larger leaves than the old.

Pyrus.—The wild Pears should be spurred in the same manner as adopted for fruiting Pears, though not quite so hard. The wild Crab-apples, such as P. baccata, P. floribunda, P. spectabilis, &c., should be cut back every spring until they have formed well-balanced heads. Afterwards an annual thinning and a shortening of the longest shoots after flowering is sufficient. The remaining sections of Pyrus merely require an occasional thinning. P. japonica should be kept spurred in, whether growing on a wall or in the open, and in the latter case should not be allowed to become a mass of weakly shoots.

Rhamnus.—These should be thinned out if becoming too thick, but, as a rule, they require very little pruning.

Rhododendron (including Azalea).—Remove all seed-pods immediately the flowers are over, and any plants that are in a sickly condition should be cut down at the same time. By doing this a season or two of flower is lost, but it is practically the only means of bringing a weakly plant back to health again.

Rhodotypus.—Cut away old wood, and encourage the strongest of the young growths.

Rhus.—Keep these well thinned out, and destroy all suckers that appear, unless wanted for stocks. Gloves should always be worn when handling any of the Rhus, as the sap of all is poisonous to a certain extent. R. Toxicodendron is very poisonous. This should never be forgotten. If used for sub-tropical gardens cut down to within two eyes of the base. Select the strongest eye and rub the other off. Always use gloves in handling this shrub. It should never be planted where children have access to it.

Ribes.—All the Ribes are improved by being cut down annually while in a young state, but when older, a yearly thinning out of the old wood is sufficient.

Robinia.—This is a genus that requires very little pruning when the members of it have attained a fair size, an occasional thinning being all that is necessary. In a young state they require well staking, and the longest shoots should be shortened back, as many of them are top-heavy when young.

Rosa.—Although the various garden Roses come under this heading, yet they are a class apart, and are better dealt with by specialists. The species of Rosa do not require any shortening of their shoots, which should always be left at full length, but all of them should have an annual thinning out of the old wood, either cutting it right away or back to a young shoot. Some of the species are very prone to throw up suckers from underground sometimes to a considerable distance from the plant, and these should always be dug out and got rid of; merely cutting them off only producing two evils in the place of one.

Rubus.—This genus includes the Blackberry and Raspberry, and in a modified form the treatment accorded to them for fruiting is the best to employ with the ornamental Rubi, that is, all old wood that has flowered should be cut away and strong young canes encouraged. But while in the cultivation of the Raspberry only a few young canes are allowed to grow, in the ornamental species practically every young growth should be utilised. The double-flowered Rubi should have some of the old wood left, as they do not make so much young growth as the single ones do.

Santolina.—This is a dwarf-growing genus, the old flower-heads of which should be cut away as soon as they are past, and any long or straggling growths cut back at the same time.

Sambucus.—The elders require very little pruning as a rule, but the various cut-leaved, golden, or variegated forms are improved by being cut back annually. This will prevent them flowering, but as good foliage is required the loss of the bloom is a matter of little consequence.

Skimmia.—Requires no pruning.

Smilax.—The hardy species of this genus do not require any pruning if they have room to ramble. If space is restricted, thin out and shorten in autumn.

Sophora.—These should be kept thinned when they have attained flowering size; in a young state they should be kept to a single stem and induced to form well-shaped trees.

Spartium.—This should be cut back in a small state, but when older it requires no pruning whatever.

Spiræa.—Though all the Spiræas will flower on the old wood, the following are better for being cut back in winter to form young flowering shoots, viz., S. betulifolia, S. Douglasi, S. Foxii, S. japonica, S. Margaritæ, S. salicifolia, S. semperflorens, S. tomentosa, and many of their varieties and hybrids. The remaining Spiræas should be kept thinned out, and if any are making strong young breaks from the lower part of the plant they can be cut back to them after flowering.

Stachyurus.—This should be thinned out after flowering.

Staphylea.—S. pinnata should be kept thinned in late summer; S. colchica and S. Coulombieri require very little pruning, but if too tall or unshapely should be cut back immediately after flowering.

Suæda.—Cut back occasionally to keep it from getting ragged.

Symphoricarpus.—Keep these well thinned out, which should be done in late summer.

Syringa (Lilac).—these should be kept free of suckers, especially the finer-named kinds, which are usually worked on stocks of the Common Lilac. In addition, disbudding may be practised with advantage in the spring, removing the majority of the blind shoots and any flowering or leading shoots that are misplaced or not required. This should be done twice or thrice at intervals of ten days or a fortnight.

Tamarix.—Cut back in a young state, but when older they should not be pruned at all.

Vaccinium.—The removal of any old or rough wood is sufficient for these.

Viburnum.—All the Viburnums grow thickly, and require an annual thinning.

Vitis.—The methods practised in growing Vines for fruit suit the ornamental species as well. If space is restricted they should be grown on the spur system, and if there is plenty of room then the extension system may be employed.

Wistaria.—These should be kept spurred in, with the exception of the leading shoots, which merely require a shortening in early spring according to the strength of the plant.

Xanthoceras.—Requires no pruning.

Zenobia.—These require no pruning as a rule, but occasionally a hard cutting back will induce healthy growth in place of a weakly one.

Thinning.—It will be gathered from these notes that thinning out only is needful in many cases. If judicious thinning were more practised English gardens would be more beautiful. It promotes internal growth and a wealth of flowers.

Pruning is frequently carelessly and ignorantly done, and this applies especially to forest trees. There are certain tools that may be used for the purpose. Under ordinary circumstances only a few are necessary, and these should always be of the best quality, sharp, clean, and always kept ready for use. Take the pruning knife for example. If this is not sharp it is impossible to make the necessary clean cut. The surface will be jagged and rough, and probably promote disease. Some prefer secateurs, and while admitting their value for pruning purposes, a good sharp knife is preferable; it is not so heavy, and does not tire the hand. There are several of these implements in the market, but the best that has come under my notice is the "improved double cutting"; it is easy to work and cuts clean. For standard trees use the "Standard Tree Pruner."

CHAPTER VII

PROPAGATION OF HARDY TREES AND SHRUBS

If we were to take many books about trees and shrubs or general gardening as a guide, one might be led to think that only one way of increasing a tree or shrub existed, and that by grafting; but, as we have pointed out elsewhere, it is a mischievous practice when indiscriminately applied. It is not contended by this that grafting and budding are utterly needless, as in many instances these methods may be rightly adopted, but the four natural ways of increase are by layers, seeds, suckers, and cuttings. Many trees and shrubs are much better when grafted upon other stocks.

Of these, practise seed-raising whenever possible; but if seeds cannot be procured, then adopt other ways, and the man is wise who tries to keep a plant on its own roots. Neither budding nor grafting should be resorted to, unless other means fail absolutely. When standard trees cannot be got true from seed, budding or grafting must be practised, and the evils of these methods of propagation are not so pronounced in such cases as with dwarf plants. With the former, suckers, or growths from the stock, are easily seen as soon as they appear, but with dwarf plants a perfect forest of suckers may seriously weaken the plant before they are noticed.

Seeds.—These can be sown at almost any time, but the spring is the best, as those which germinate quickly have time to form strong young plants before the following winter. Some take two years to come up, and should be left in the ground. This refers more to seeds sown outdoors, and few hardy trees and shrubs require heat to assist germination. When sown in the open the beds should be made on a fairly rich, moist piece of ground, protected from cold winds, but fully exposed to the sun. After the seeds are sown, cover them with light tiffany shading, fir branches, or heather, but the first is best, as it is easily removed to attend to the bed. Conifers especially should be sown in beds, whether indoors or outdoors, as pot-culture results in the roots taking the shape of the pot, and never afterwards recovering from their cramped condition. It must be remembered, however, that varieties cannot be depended upon to come true from seed, though by careful selection for a few years many varieties will almost reproduce the characteristics of the parents. Hybrids, such as Berberis stenophylla, Hypericum moserianum, and many others, also do not come true from seed, so that cuttings, layers, or division of the old plants must be the practice chosen.

Suckers.—Plants which throw up suckers from the base, or below the ground-line, are easily propagated by detaching these suckers in winter with a portion of root. They will grow away readily, and soon form good trees or shrubs as the case may be.

Cuttings.—Nearly all the hardy shrubs, and a small proportion of hardy trees also, can be propagated by cuttings taken at certain times of the year. Summer cuttings are taken during the last two weeks of May and throughout June, the actual time depending on the season, and consist of the young shoots that have grown to a length of 3 to 6 inches. These should be pulled off with a "heel," and inserted in sandy soil in a close frame, with brisk bottom heat. The cuttings should be taken on a dull day, or early in the morning, and kept cool and moist until they are in the frame. A cutting that has flagged is useless, as it never revives. Deciduous flowering shrubs are usually propagated by summer cuttings, which generally root well in a fortnight or less. Autumn cuttings are taken during August and September, and are made from the partially ripened growths of the current year, inserted in sandy soil, in a close frame, without bottom heat. Winter cuttings are made from thoroughly ripened wood at any time between October and March, and are laid in rather thickly in rows outdoors, and only about an inch or less is left above the soil. The majority of our best flowering shrubs are easily increased in this way.

Layers.—Excellent trees and shrubs can be got by layers, and they may be laid down at any time of the year; they will be ready for removal in about eighteen months or two years.

Budding.—This is done about August, and the same rules apply to trees and shrubs as to Roses, &c.

Grafting.—This takes place outdoors from March to May, at the earlier time for deciduous trees and shrubs, and later on for evergreens. The actual time depends upon the season.

Where seed is not expressly mentioned below, it must be understood that this is the natural, and in many cases the best, way to propagate.

The following trees can only be raised from seed to do any good afterwards, though a few of them will throw up suckers, which can be taken off and replanted: Æsculus (Chestnut), Ailantus, Alnus (Alder), Arbutus, Betula (Birch), Carpinus (Hornbeam), Carya (Hickory), Castanea (Sweet Chestnut), Celtis (Nettle tree), Fagus (Beech), Fraxinus (Ash), Gleditschia (Honey Locust), Juglans (Walnut), Laburnum, Liquidambar, Morus (Mulberry), Prunus, Pyrus, Quercus (Oak), Sophora, Ulmus (Elm), and Zelkova. The varieties of any species of the above, and, in fact, of nearly all hardy trees, must be budded or grafted on the species they are forms of, but an exotic species should never be worked on the native representative of the genus—e.g. Æsculus flava should not be budded on the Common Horse Chestnut, as the latter is far too strong a stock for the smaller-growing Æsculus.

Acer (Maple) and Tilia (Lime or Linden) can be raised from seeds or by layering, the Lime especially being largely propagated from layers, which soon form strong young trees. The varieties of Maple are best worked on stocks of the species they belong to.

Cratægus (Thorn), Catalpa, and Robinia (Locust tree), can be raised from suckers or root-cuttings, if seeds cannot be got. Any of their varieties are usually budded or grafted on stocks of the parent species.

Ilex (Holly), Magnolia, Populus (Poplar), Platanus (Plane), and Salix (Willow). The Holly is easily raised from cuttings and layers, the second roots readily when layered, and the latter three are propagated in large quantities by winter cuttings. The White Poplar (Populus alba) is an exception, as this can only be increased by root-cuttings.

Increasing Hardy Shrubs

The best of our hardy flowering shrubs are grouped under seven natural orders, and a knowledge of the order to which a plant belongs is in most cases a guide to its propagation, as the majority of the species contained in an order are, as a rule, increased by the same methods.

Berberideæ.—This contains Akebia and Berberis, which are propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers. Berberis stenophylla and B. Neuberti do not come true from seed, so that one or both of the other methods mentioned above must be adopted.

Leguminosæ.—In this order such genera as Cytisus (Broom), Genista (Rock Broom), Spartium (Spanish Broom), Ononis, Indigofera, Colutea (Bladder Senna), Caragana (Siberian Pea tree), and Cercis (Judas tree) should be raised from seed, which is the quickest and best method of propagation. Cuttings of certain forms of Cytisus and Genista will root readily, but the plants will sometimes die off just as they have attained flowering size. Ulex (Furze, Whin, or Gorse) is propagated by seeds or cuttings, and Wistarias by seeds or by layering.

Rosaceæ.—This includes Prunus, the shrubby forms of which can, in the majority of cases, be increased by cuttings or layers; Spiræa and Kerria (Jews' Mallow), cuttings of which root readily at almost any time of the year; Exochorda (Pearl Bush), must be raised from seed to do any good; Rubus (Brambles), some of which can be propagated by suckers, and the remainder by pegging the points of the shoots down to form young plants; Rosa (Rose), the species of which should be increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers, though seeds will not always come true, as Roses become hybridised very readily; and Cotoneaster, which are increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers.

Saxifrageæ.—In this order Hydrangea, Deutzia, Philadelphus (Mock Orange), Escallonia, and Ribes (Flowering Currant) are included. All are easily propagated by cuttings taken in almost any season of the year. With the exception of Hydrangea, which should be struck under glass, all the members of this order root readily outdoors in the winter.

Caprifoliaceæ.—This order contains such genera as Sambucus (Elder), Viburnum, Lonicera (Honeysuckle), Symphoricarpus (Snowberry tree), Abelia, Leycesteria, and Diervilla (Weigela). All are easily propagated by cuttings or by layering. The cuttings can be taken at almost any time of the year, and root quickly, the young plants attaining a good size by the end of the second year.

Ericaceæ.—This order includes all the so-called American plants, such as Pernettya, Gaultheria, Leucothoë, Andromeda, Pieris, Zenobia, Erica (Heath), Calluna (Common Heather, Ling), Kalmia, Ledum, Clethra, and Rhododendron (including Azalea). These can all be increased by seeds, layering, and, in addition, the first two by division of the old plants. Erica and Calluna can also be increased by cuttings. Seedlings, of course, make the best plants, but layering is a quicker method, and, in the case of some of the smaller Ericaceæ, one of the easiest. All the Rhododendrons will not root from cuttings, though some of the small-flowered ones strike easily, but practically all may be increased from layers. A few of the showy garden forms cannot be raised from layers, and have to be grafted on stocks of the common R. ponticum or R. catawbiense.

Oleaceæ.—This includes both deciduous flowering shrubs and ornamental evergreens, such as Syringa (Lilac), Chionanthus (Fringe tree), Jasminum (Jasmine), Forsythia, Ligustrum (Privet), Phillyræa (P. decora (vilmoriniana) is so easily raised from seeds or cuttings that it is foolish to graft it on the common privet), and Osmanthus being represented. The first two are best propagated by seeds or layers, though the named garden Lilac is usually grafted on stocks of the common S. vulgaris, a silly practice. It is a pitiful business keeping down suckers from grafted plants. Ask for Lilacs on their own roots, and much vexation will be saved. A garden should be a place of rest and pleasure, not a hunting-ground for suckers. The other genera are readily raised by cuttings taken at almost any time of the year, or by layering.

Although the above orders include a considerable number of our best shrubs, several plants must be specially mentioned. The Clematis is increased by seeds, cuttings, or layers in the case of the species, but unfortunately the garden forms are usually grafted on C. Viticella or C. Flammula, whereas many can be propagated by cuttings, and practically all will root when layered.

TULIP TREE AT RANELAGH (Winter).

In the absence of seeds the following genera must be propagated by layers, viz., Aucuba, Chimonanthus (Winter Sweet), Halesia (Snowdrop tree), Hamamelis (Witch Hazel), Hippophaë (Sea Buckthorn), and Myrica (Candleberry Myrtle). Cuttings of the first will root readily enough, but never seem to succeed afterwards. The female form of Hippophaë is best raised from layers, as seedlings usually give a large percentage of male plants. Aralia and Rhus (Sumach) are increased by seeds or root-cuttings; Buddleia japonica is best raised from seeds, and the other Buddleias from cuttings; and practically all other hardy shrubs that have not been specially mentioned are easily propagated by seeds, cuttings, or layers, and the majority of them by all three methods.

If it is impossible to increase a tree or shrub by any other means than by the three methods mentioned, then resort to budding or grafting.