TRAVELS
IN
TURKEY
AND BACK TO
ENGLAND.

By the late Reverend and Learned

EDMUND CHISHULL, B. D.

Chaplain to the Factory of the
Worshipful TURKEY COMPANY at SMYRNA.

LONDON,
Printed by W. Bowyer in the Year MDCCXLVII.

THE
PREFACE.

No books are generally more entertaining and instructive, than the accounts of travels into foreign countries; and especially those, which are written in the way of Journals. For he, who reads such narratives, is almost apt to fancy himself in company with the traveler, and to take part with him in all his adventures; which at the same time that they shew the peculiar temper, customs, and manners of different nations, excite also a variety of passions, which by their succession please the mind, and make the chief delight even in theatrical performances.

Upon this account it is, that the Letters of Busbequius, during his embassy in Turkey; and the Journies of our ingenious and learned countryman Mr. Maundrell, thro several parts of the same vast empire, which he has so accurately described; are repeatedly read, and always with new pleasure.

Therefore, when Mr. Edmund Chishull, only Son of the late Reverend Mr. Chishull, who was for some years chaplain to the Factory of our Worshipful Turkey Company at Smyrna, brought to me not many months since the present Journal of his Father’s Travels, desiring me to peruse it, and give him my opinion, whether it was a work worthy to be published; I could not refuse his request but applied myself with due care to read and examine it. And I was the more readily induced to this, as I had thro a course of many years the happiness of a perfect acquaintance with his father, even from his return home to his death; and knew him, as well from his conversation, as his writings (particularly that justly celebrated book of his Antiquitates Asiaticae) to be not only a man of uncommon learning, but likewise of great sagacity, and indefatigable diligence.

And indeed my pains in the perusal of these papers were very well rewarded. For besides an agreable amusement common to other writings of this nature, they gave me very useful instruction as to several passages in ancient historians, and other classic authors; and at the same time illustrated many old inscriptions, several of which are now first published, and others taken with greater exactness, than had been done formerly.

Hence I could not but persuade the young Gentleman to oblige the world with this work, and to have it printed in such a manner, as his freinds should advise him. Tho I easily foresaw, that the doing of this would necessarily be attended with some difficulties; as Mr. Chishull had put into writing those occurrences, which he thought worthy of his notice, at such leisure minutes, as he could snatch from the constant fatigues of his journey; and by that means had sometimes not only thrown many things together without exact order, but often left the places cited from ancient writers to be supplied out of their own works. And besides, his hand being both small and hasty, was frequently not very easy to be read; so that many of the words, as to the manner of spelling, appeared doubtful and uncertain. This made it needful to have the whole first fairly transcribed, and then to fill up the quotations. The former task therefore I committed to a professed penman, and the latter I undertook myself. In the doing of which I not only carefully compared the transcriber’s copy with the original; but had recourse to the authors themselves, and took out of them the several passages, to which the references were made.

When Mr. Chishull left England, he was fellow of Corpus Christi college in Oxford, and had a grant of the traveler’s place from the president and society. He set sail from the Downs September the 12, 1698, in the Neptune frigate, Capt. Thomas commander, and arrived at Smyrna November the 19 following. During the voyage, agreably to his usual diligence, he constantly kept a Journal of what then offered. But as nothing very remarkable occurred at sea; for that reason the account of his Travels, which is here published, begins with a Journey undertaken by him some months after his settlement at Smyrna. However as in his passage he went on shoar first at Cadiz, then at Messina, and after that in the island of Milo; in each of which places he made several observations, which he afterwards sent in a Letter from Smyrna to Dr. Thomas Turner, president of his college: that Letter is likewise now published at the end of this book.

But as he has generally remarked the situation, government, and other curiosities, of the most considerable cities, thro which he passed; it may seem strange, that no account is here given of Smyrna, the place of his residence, and where, as he himself tells us, he continued from November 19, 1698, to February 10, 1701-2. This however was occasioned by his design of treating upon that place in a more distinct and particular manner; for which purpose there is a large number of minutes, or heads, detached in a separate part of the book, relating both to the antient and present state of the city; which were afterwards to have been filled up, and inlarged. Tho as they are now left, nothing more appears, that can be of any service to the public, than what here follows.

The antiquities now extant in this place are these. The castle, which was Roman, and where Dolabella beheaded Trebonius. The large head of Smyrna the Amazon over the gate of the same. The inscription relating to Joannes Ducas over another gate of the same, with the modern oriental eagle on both sides. The small remains of the theatre, in which S. Polycarp was burnt, lately taken to pieces to build the Vizír kane of the place, and bezesten, or market. The reliques of St. John’s church. The space and walls of an ancient cirque. All which are on the said castle hill, which immediately overlooks the city. The ruins of the temple of Apollo at the foot of mount Corycus, in an olive grove, and over the θερμὰ ὕδατα. The ruins of the temple of Aesculapius, or Neptune, in the way to Eshekléer; where was lately found the head of Janus, and another of M. Modius. A rich and delicate pavement of mosaic work by the sea side, towards the north, at a place where the outer wall terminates in the shore; which possibly is the remains of the gymnasium, or some heathen temple. The several inscriptions there lately found, reported in Prideaux, or at the end of this book. The large stones of a yard and half square in a great and massy wall, now part of a kane in the Armenian street, on all of which is marked the letter V, as large as the breadth of the stone would permit. The remains of an old Roman way, paved with broad and massy stones, but smooth, in the road over the castle hill toward Ephesus. The remains of the ancient wall encompassing the pomoerium, or a large space of ground about two thousand paces distant all round from the castle, or the city. The scarcity of antiquities now to be found in Smyrna arises from hence, that it furnished the greatest part of the Marmora Arundeliana.

The inscriptions here said to be reported in Prideaux, are to be found in the Doctor’s edition of the Marmora Arundeliana. And as to those referred to at the end of our author’s book, such of them will be here subjoined, as are not in the large collection designed by him for a second part of his Antiquitates Asiaticae; of which a few sheets only, containing those which relate to Ephesus, were printed by him a little before his death, and the rest are now in my possession.

In a very pleasant valley near the bank of the river Meles, scarce thirty paces without the city.

ΜΕΝΟΣ[1]

ΙΕΡΟΝ

ΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣ

ΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2]

... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚ

ΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3]

...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ

..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑ

ΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ

ΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗ

ΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4]

On a hill near the castle.

Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝ

ΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝ

ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥ

ΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡ

ΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟ

ΜΕΝΟΙΣ

On a square stone in the house of the English consul, being of a later age.

ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑ

ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩ

ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5] ΚΟΙΤΩΝ

ΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ.

Β. Ϲ.

ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙ

ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹ

ΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕ

ΚΑΙ ϹΥ.

What he has said in relation to the present Smyrna, is as follows.

Smyrna is situated in the latitude of 38gr. 40m. in a deep bay, that enters within the continent about ten leagues; and is so well defended by the Erythraean promontory, now cape Kara Bornu, and mount Corycus, with the hills commonly called Cordilieu, and its own windings, that it is every where a port, affording good depths and secure anchorage. Immediately within the bay are seven islands, lying in length towards the port of Vourlá, antiently Clazomenae, which of old were called the Peristerides; and the biggest of them, Megale, is now by the English named Long Island, over against Fochia Vecchia, or Phocaea. Cape Kara Bornu, or Black Nose (antiently the ἄκρα μέλαινα) afforded, as Strabo says, excellent mill stones; which is not unknown to the present inhabitants, and therefore we there see several mills now employed. Within two leagues and a half of the city the Hermus enters the bay, and there forms a bed of sand; which being met by a point of land from the opposite shore stops up the haven by a very narrow chanel, thus rendring it κλειστὸς, as Strabo then expressed it. On the said point stands a new and strong fort, called Sangiac Castle; because the Grand Signior’s colours are there exposed, on occasions that require it. From hence we sail towards Smyrna, in a fair and long arm of the sea, which imitates the pleasures of a canal; whilst the woody mountains on each side, with the city at one end, and the castle at the other, conspire to give a mutual beauty to one another.

Had our author lived to finish his elaborate account of Smyrna, from the large materials he had collected for that design, it would doubtless have been a very useful work, and thrown much light upon many passages in ancient writers. And indeed every part of his Travels must certainly have received great advantage and improvements from his review. Tho I question not, but in their present state they will meet with such a reception from the public, as will reward the labours of the learned Father, by a proper incouragement given to his industrious Son.

I shall only add, that some intimation having been given of a Map, designed to be published with this book that was judged afterwards not so necessary, as at first was apprehended; since there are so many maps already extant of those countries, which make the subject of these Travels. And therefore as the principal use of such a map would have been to exhibit both the ancient and modern names of several places, which are mentioned by our author; an Index was thought more commodious for that purpose. Besides, as he has occasionally introduced many Turkish and other foreign words, without explaining them; this affords likewise an opportunity for their explication. As the benefit of the reader has been consulted in this alteration; so it is not to be doubted, but he will find the advantage of it in perusing the work.

August 12, 1747.

R. MEAD.

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TRAVELS
IN
TURKEY
AND BACK TO
ENGLAND.

An Account of a journey round the ancient Ionia, from Smyrna, thro St. George’s, Magnesia, Durguthli, Sardis, Birghée, Tyria, Ephesus, and back to Smyrna, in the year MDCXCIX.

April xxi.

Eight of our nation having lately designed a visit to the church of Ephesus, by name, Messieurs Whalley, Dunster, Coventry, Ashe, Turner, Clotterbooke, Frye, and Chishull, we had first a general meeting, to agree upon what was requisite to the resolution we had taken; at which time Mr. Whalley kindly undertaking the care of our provisions, and the government of our intended journey, we propos’d to make a circuit of our way to Ephesus, that so we might have a larger satisfaction in the sight of those delightsome places, for which Asia Minor was always so justly celebrated.

In prosecution of this design we intended to make our first conáck at Norlícui, to which place having this morning dispatched our baggage upon mules, under the care of a janisary and two servants, we ourselves set forward about three in the afternoon, with another janisary, dragoman, servants, and other requisites. Our company completed the number of twenty three light horse. Six or seven other gentlemen of the English factory were pleased to accompany us as far as Norlícui, where arriving in less than two hours, we all found a kind and hospitable reception from Mr. Benjamin Jones and his lady. After a short repast our freinds returned back to Smyrna, and left us employed in providing for ourselves and horses. This care had now taken up the evening, when it being proposed, that morning and evening prayers should be constantly read to the company during the whole journey, we all readily embraced the motion. Hereupon we immediately put this design in execution, and then pitched upon our lodging.

April xxii.

This morning a quarter before five we leave Norlícui, and proceed on Magnesia road in our way to St. George’s village, expecting to see the ceremonies, which the Greek Christians there perform on the twenty third instant, which is the festival of that saint. And having ascended the top of the adjoining hill, we there make an halt for our mules, and take that opportunity of looking back, and enjoying the delightful prospect, which this place afforded us. We had then the gap of Nymphe on our left hand, and village of Palamútcui on our right, which is pleasantly seated on an ascent, under a grove of pine trees; but before us lay extended the whole plain between the hills of Tartalée[6] and Cordilíeu, being terminated with the view of the Two Brothers[7], the city, castle, and bay of Smyrna.

We continue our journey over the hill, till arriving at an old burying place, we begin to descend by a paved way to a large and high bridge of stone, built over a small, but clear and purling river. From hence we pass on to the groves of Jacácui, which is a village seated on the right hand upon an ascending ground, and fronting the edge of Tartalée. Here we again halted, and drank a dish of coffee, partly to wait for our mules, and partly to entertain ourselves with a view of the plain of Nymphe, into which we had a narrow prospect between the forementioned village and the ridge of the opposite mountain. After this we ascend a tedious and craggy hill, with which tho we were now considerably fatigued, yet we had still courage enough to reject the proposal, which was there made, of baiting, and taking the advantage of a fair commodious fountain, which flows on our right hand from the top of the hill. We therefore proceed about the space of an hour in tolerable good way, till at the descent of the mountain we encounter a rugged and uneasy passage; the road being either choaked up with loose stones, or else worn into abrupt and descending steps. This obliged us to dismount, and lead our horses down the precipice; where we nevertheless received some little satisfaction, in observing the veins of red and white marble, with which each side of this troublesome way is garnished. At the foot of the hill we cross a rivulet, and quickly after repassing the same, ride from thence strait forward in a covert and narrow bottom, which in less than half an hour leads us into the plains of Magnesia. After a short repast in this place we mount our horses, turning to the left out of the road of Magnesia; and tho we were now not more than half an hour from our intended conáck, yet we ride on by mistake too much to the right hand; till, having advanced beyond the town and castle of Magnesia, we come to a Turkish village, where we were directed almost back again to St. George’s. Here we arrived about one a clock, and made it our first business to pitch our tent for the use of our servants, whilst we ourselves were received into a little house, which afforded us the convenience of one chamber, and a sophá, for lodging.

After diner we took a walk about the village, and visited the low humble church, which is here permitted to the Greek Christians. It has outwardly the marks of no inconsiderable antiquity, and within it is the exact model of the primitive Greek churches; consisting first of the πρόναος or outward chapel, then the νάος or body of the church, with three passages from the one into the other, and after all a chancel separate from the nave by lattice work. We here observed no other ornaments, than the pictures of St. George, the Virgin Mary, St. John, and St. Nicholas, and another of our Savior on the roof of the church, which consists of a regular cupola. Before the altar lay the book of the Gospels, with three or four copies of divine service; some containing their ordinary Liturgy, and others adapted to peculiar months of the year. The Greeks were now flocking hither to perform their devotions before the picture of St. George; and the superstition of a woman was remarkable, who prostrated her little infant at the feet of the saint, and eagerly stroking the picture endeavoured to convey some hidden blessing to the body of the child.

April xxiii.

This morning we mounted about nine a clock, when the Greeks were preparing for the ceremony of the day. It was pleasant to see them flock together to the number of some thousands, being of different sex, age, and quality; but all equally regardless of the dirt and rain, which then fell very plentifully. We followed them on horseback a little mile out of the village to a large turpentine tree, under the shade and covert of which they had placed the saints, which we had before observed in the church; and there celebrated their mass. This was no other, than what is ordinary in the rites of the Greek church; except only, that it seemed to have some particular reference to St. George. It may be here proper to observe, that as the priest made two elevations of the elements, the one before, and the other after consecration; the people equally adored them at the former, as well as at the latter[8]. Before the consecration of the wine was completed, the priest mingled a little warm water in the cup, and afterwards put the μαργαρίτης, or consecrated bread, therein. All which he, and the deacon who assisted him, received; and after the whole ceremony one of his assistants distributed two loaves of unconsecrated bread[9] in little peices to the people, which they received with as much hurry as superstition. The congregation now break up, and carry back their saints in a tumultuous manner, one still endeavouring to catch them from another; while he that carries them, runs with what speed he can, and often strikes his head with the board, on which they are painted, as a voluntary penance for his sins.

This ceremony ended, we turned aside to satisfy our curiosity with the sight of the famous river Hermus, which flows scarce two bow’s shot below the turpentine tree mentioned above. This large and noble river yeilds an entertaining sight, especially when it abates something of its usual fulness. It appears graced on each side with a sandy shelving bank. The neighbouring pastures afford abundance of tamarisk, and on the edge of the river asparagus is very plentiful. It may be observed, that as the poets of old called it the golden[10], so the Turks at present call it the silver streamed Hermus; either of which names it seems to deserve from that bright and shining sand, which its water washes. But though the sand be clear, yet the water is still thick and muddy[11], and well answers some epithets of that nature, which are bestowed upon it in ancient poetry.

It was now past midday, when we return to the village, and after the refreshment of a diner prepare for our departure towards Magnesia. Our way thither lay through the same plain, into which we entered yesterday at one a clock; where the beauty and verdure of this campain countrey made amends for the great rain, which annoyed us all this day, as well at the Greek ceremony, as now in our way to Magnesia.

In two hours from St. George’s we begin to enter Magnesia, not without a just admiration of its delicious situation at the foot of mount Sipylus; from whence it was antiently called Magnesia ad Sipylum, to distinguish it from that other, which stood near the river Meander[12]. Having rode into the city, we began to be in distress for an house to receive us; for an uncertain recommendation, which we had hitherto over credulously relied on, we now found to have miscarried. This was observed by an effendi, who saw us pass under his window, and therefore courteously acquainted us by his servant, that if we wanted accommodations, we might be welcome to his house. We gladly embraced the motion, and were conducted into a garden, where we were afforded the use of a pleasure house, consisting of a large sophá room, a kitchen, and an open kiosk, with a beautiful fountain in the middle. The effendi himself came down, and welcomed us to our apartment, adding withall, that if we had any other freind to rely upon, he would not deprive us of a better entertainment; if not, he bid us freely make use of what this place afforded. Returning to his house he presented us with a lamb, and desired to know, if there was any thing else, with which he was capable of obliging us. By our dragoman he likewise informed us, that the cadí of the city was at that time making him a visit, before whom it might not be improper for us to shew ourselves; but at the same time not to come empty handed. According to this motion we waited upon the cadí with two okes of sugar, and as many of coffee. He received us and our present very obligingly; and upon the effendi’s invitation, we there drank a dish of coffee in the company of several Turks, who seemed to be of the better rank, and behaved themselves gentilely, that is, according to the genius of this haughty people, with an agreable mixture of civility and reservedness.

This ceremony performed, we returned to our garden, and there entertained ourselves at supper with just and grateful reflections on the great courtesy and hospitality of our landlord, whole name we had now learnt to be Mahomet effendi. His habitation is very pleasant, yet not so much for the splendid furniture of his house, as for that various and diverting prospect, which it commands over the plain of Hermus; though indeed this is an advantage, which by reason of the ascending situation of Magnesia is common to the meanest cottage in the city. It seemed strange to us to observe several pieces of painted glass in the windows of our effendi’s house, inscribed in Turkish characters with the name of the proprietor, together with some religious sentences of Mahometan devotion. But we were much more surprized, when we were informed, that it was the manufacture of this place; for it is stained with a beautiful as well as deep and durable colour, and comes up to the perfection of the best, we have seen in England. This gave us occasion to reflect on the different fortune of arts and sciences, which, like men, seem to take delight in shifting their station; for while other arts have now left these places, and traveled westward, this alone in exchange for all the rest seems to have retired into this, and is deplored as lost in Christendom.

April xxiv.

We propose to spend this day at Magnesia, in order to observe what may further occur there remarkable. To this end we were favoured with the company of a janisary by one Mahmút agá, to whom this morning we made a short visit; he being the person, to whom at first we expected to have been recommended. The janisary conducted us to the two principal mosques of the city, to a religious college of dervíses, to a madhouse, and to an old seraglio, where the young princes of the Ottoman empire have formerly been educated. At the last of these there remain only the reliques of two or three rich tiváns, and a considerable number of stately old cypress trees, to witness the former grandeur of the place. At the madhouse we could observe nothing besides the bare walls of that hospital, and a brass mortar lying in the yard, which seemed to be remarkable for an old Latin inscription, which it bore, signifying that it was made at Pisa. The religious college is a fair stone building, consisting of one quadrangle, and that encompassed with a regular cloister, which is supported with pillars of the modern Greek module. The two mosques, which we mentioned, are distinguished from the rest, in that they are of royal foundation, an honour which is signified by the two minarées belonging to them; whereas the other eighteen, with which this city is furnished, have but one a piece. Before each of these mosques there is a square and regular area, containing a beautiful fountain in the middle, and enclosed on three sides with cells of religious Turks. The front of the mosque makes the fourth side of the square, and is itself likewise adorned with a spacious portico supported with stately pillars, of which some only are topt with modern capitals. But as the capitals of the rest are of the old Corinthian order, so all the shafts appear plainly to be ancient; some consisting of natural and others of cast artificial marble, but both the one and the other bound near the pedestal with rings of massy brass.

Before we could be admitted into the inside, we were obliged to comply with the zeal of the Turks, who always leave their shoes at the entrance of their mosques. Here we found them both much resembling one another, excepting that one was richer than the other; and whereas the roof of the other consisted of five cupolas, the roof of this was regularly contracted into one. We had now the liberty to view several copies of their Alcoran, and other books of Mahometan prayers, all curiously written and adorned with golden figures. The windows are furnished with excellent painted glass, full of flower work and religious inscriptions; and from the roof hangs a multitude of lamps, together with bright balls contrived to reflect the light, all of them well ranged in a beautiful and artificial manner.

In each of the royal mosques we further observed a splendid kiblé, which is a part separate from the body of the mosque, and answering to the altar of our Christian churches; it is adorned with a rich floor and gilded roof, together with carving and mosaic work on each side, but more particularly in the front, which is contrived to face Mecca. Immediately to the right hand of the kiblé stands a lofty pulpit, being fourteen steps high, and consisting of a portal, rails, and canopy, all of wrought marble. One thing was remarkable as well in these mosques, as in that which we afterwards saw at Ephesus, though we know not whether it has any mystical reference to the Turkish superstition; it is a nich in the front of the kiblé, on each side of which stands a fine slender pillar, hewn out of one entire stone, made without capital or pedestal, but so fixed within the work both above and below, that it remains moveable, and is turned about by the hand at pleasure.

This sight of Magnesia was our employment before diner, but in the afternoon we all attempted to ascend the castle hill on foot; which we quickly found to be a more difficult and painful task, than we at first imagined. The way was inexpressibly steep and craggy, and cost us an hour’s labour, though we made all possible speed; nor after our return could we blame the discretion of one of our companions, who thought fit to retire about the midway. However having at length conquered the ascent, our toil was well rewarded with the surprizing prospect of the city, and adjacent plain; in the latter of which we could distinguish the whole course of the Hermus for many miles together, as also the places where the Amnis Phrygius, or Hyllus, joins it[13].

The fabric of the whole castle is very strong, and the advantage of a hill, which is on all sides a mile high, must have rendered it impregnable, in an age which knew not the use of gunpowder. It was formerly fortified with a considerable number of great guns, which are now removed to the new castle, which defends the bay of Smyrna. Two only remain on a bastion, that fronts the city; on both which we were sorry to see the eagles of the Roman empire. No other apartment of the castle is now kept locked, except a dungeon, in which there were twelve prisoners, lately sent thither by Osmánogli. A sight of these miserable wretches we desired of the agá, nor was he so scrupulous as to deny it us. The same agá likewise shewed us within the precincts of the castle a poor Christian church, dedicated to the memory of St. John; where the Greeks meet upon the day of his feast, and are at the constant charge of two lamps, which burn there throughout the year. We had read and heard of a collection of Roman arms, reserved somewhere in this castle; tho being upon the place, nothing of this nature occurred to us. But Solymán effendi, a most courteous and obliging person, whom we visited this evening, as being the next neighbour, as well as brother of our landlord, assured us, that having many years since had the curiosity to ascend the castle hill, he then saw under ground the collection which we spake of, consisting of headpieces, breastplates, shields, and the like.

The mountainous parts about Magnesia were antiently famous for the production of the loadstone[14]; tho indeed it is disparaged by Pliny[15], and accounted less attractive, than that of other places. However this probably was the city, from whence, as Lucretius says, that stone took the name of magnet[16]; as from the whole country of Lydia the touchstone likewise was called lapis Lydius[17]. This hint gave us the curiosity to carry a sea compass up the castle hill, where we had the satisfaction to see it point to different quarters, as we then placed it upon different stones, and quickly after intirely to lose its whole virtue; two effects which are natural to the magnetic needle, when injured by the nearness of other bodies impregnated with the same quality.

Late in the evening we were now preparing for repose, and endeavouring to forget the fatigue of the castle hill; when Solymán effendi, having laid aside the badges of his character, and put on a more familiar temper, returned our visit. We doubted not from the change of his habit, and the unseasonableness of the hour, but he came to break a Mahometan commandment, and steal his kief (as the Turks pleasantly express it) in the juice of the forbidden grape[18]. This was a tedious and ungrateful task, with which nevertheless, by reason of his own and his brother’s great civility, some of our company were forced to comply. Nor had the wine he freely drank its desired effect, till towards two a clock in the morning.

April xxv.

We begin to rise by five this morning, and after dispatching our baggage take leave of Mahomet effendi, to whose singular humanity and hospitality we had hitherto been so much obliged. As we were riding thro the city, it was pleasant to recollect something of the ancient history of this place, whose present state we had seen the day before. It there occurred to us, that this was that Magnesia, which of all the Asian cities[19] made the first submission to the Roman arms, after the defeat of Antiochus by Scipio. This likewise was that Magnesia, which entered into a league offensive and defensive with the city of Smyrna in the reign of Seleucus son of Antiochus Theus, whereby the inhabitants of the one were mutually made free of the other city; and whereas public monuments of this confederacy were by agreement of both parties to be erected in different places, one of them, which was set up by the Smyrneans, is now to be seen in the gallery at Oxford, inscribed on a large flat marble pillar[20].

There now scarce occur any reliques of antiquity in Magnesia, except that we observed several Ionic and Corinthian pillars in the court of an old mosque, held in great veneration by the Turks for the burial of Hasánogli, a person famous in the history of that nation. Over one of the entrances into the same court there is to be seen a broken inscription of an antient heathen temple, tho too high to be now legible; and on a stone step, placed before the principal mosque of the city, we could read among other decayed words ΚΑΙΣΑΡΙ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩ. The following inscription likewise is of no contemptible antiquity, which we found on a stone now lying in the staircase of the abovementioned Solymán effendi.

ΣΤΑΤΙΩ ΚΩΔΡΑΤΩ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩ[21] ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΔΙΟ-

ΓΝΙΤΟΥ ΕΠΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ

ΙΔΙΟΙΣ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙΣ ΜΗΔΕΝΙ ΔΕ ΕΞΕΣΤΩ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΑΙ

ΑΥΤΟ ΕΚ ΤΟΥ ΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΜΟΥ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΑΠΑΛΛΟΤΡΙΩΣΗ

ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΣΤΩ ΕΙΣ ΤΟΝ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΦΙΣΚΟΝ Χ. Ρ. ϛ.

The said effendi not only civilly informed us of this stone, but when we had transcribed the words, he profered to send it after us to Smyrna; adding, that if it was any piece of sanctity, he was unwilling it should remain there to be trampled under foot.

Designing from hence for Durguthli, we continue our journey under the foot of Sipylus, which about two hours from the city ends in a stupendous precipice, consisting of a naked massy stone, and rising perpendicularly almost a furlong high. It was not a little surprizing, as we rode along under the foot of this hill, to observe a certain cliff of the rock, representing an exact nich and statue, with the due shape and proportion of an human body. For Sipylus being the seat of the transformation of the unhappy Niobe[22], there was ground of imagining, that we had either met with her statue, or with that which was the first occasion of the fable; at least it was not improbable, that this was the work of some antient inhabitants of this place, who pleased themselves in fashioning the natural rock into such a figure, as might preserve the tradition of this celebrated poetic fiction.

Not far from hence we begin to leave the mountain on our right hand, having the stream of the Hermus in view on the left; and at a large distance before us the snowy top of the mountain Tmolus. Our road now lay thro a verdant and delightful plain, inriched by many advantages of nature, and not negligently manured by the inhabitants. About the fourth hour of this day’s journey we passed a bridge, erected over a large river; which, as those of the country informed us, is now called Niphti, or Nymphe, and may probably be the Cryos mentioned by Pliny, as one of the streams that feed the Hermus[23]. From this bridge the road lies thro a less fertile plain, till within the neighbourhood of Durguthli it is again better cultivated, and appropriated to the production of cottons. Near our entrance into the town we cross a broad and sandy chanel, which in the winter season conveys no inconsiderable current into the Hermus. We had here no other to rely upon, than the accommodations of a public kane, where, after we had fixed our lodgings, we found that we had arrived in six hours from Magnesia; tho an hour is to be deducted for the rests, which we were obliged to make for the security of our mules.

Durguthli is a town purely of Turkish fabric, and therefore has nothing to entertain the curiosity of any traveler, besides the management of cotton wool; which is here prepared in great abundance, and so transmitted to the market of Smyrna. As to this we observed, that they first sift it from the dust and other refuse, which it contracts in gathering, in a large wicker wheel; after this they separate the wool from the cod, in which it grows; and at last they work it betwixt a wooden and iron roller, which spinning upon one another in a rapid motion draw in the wool, and leave the seed behind.

Walking up and down about the limits of our kane, we were accosted by a Turk, who spake good Italian. He had been many years a slave in Legorn, where he was a witness to the riches and splendor of Italy, and other parts of Christendom. This gave him occasion to express a just indignation against the haughty ignorance of the Turks; who, tho they want all advantages of art, and appearance of true magnificence, yet have the vanity to despise other nations, who enjoy both to a great perfection. In other discourse with an Armenian priest we were informed of a church, which by a peculiar grant of the Grand Signior that nation had newly founded in Durguthli. This was an instance, which seemed to us observable; for tho Christianity is tolerated in Turkey, yet they hold it inconsistent with their law to permit the erection of any new churches, and allow only the liberty of repairing old ones.

We parted in the close of the evening, and repaired in good health to our respective lodgings. But about two in the morning one of our company awaked under an indisposition, which by degrees grew into a severe and dangerous sickness; tho by timely opening a vein, and after that enjoying a little repose, he recovered to the great satisfaction of the whole company. However this discouraged us from proceeding, till another night’s rest should confirm his health. Being thus detained a day at Durguthli, we were informed of some antiquities to be seen among the Armenian graves, on a mount adjoining to the town; whither when we had repaired, we found a curious piece of basso relievo, brought, as they said, from Sardis. But no ancient inscriptions appeared there, except these imperfect words on a marble tombstone.

.. ΥΡΗΛΙΩ ΚΟΤΤ ... Μ ... ΣΑ ΑΛΕΞΙΝΟΟΥ ... Ω ΕΚΤ .

ΔΙΑΤΑΓΗΣ ..... ΚΑΡΜΟΥ ΤΩ ΙΔΙΩ ΦΙΛΩ ... ΕΥΕΡΓΕΤΗ

April xxvii.

Rising early this morning all of us, God be thanked, in perfect health, we still resolve to enlarge our circuit; whence Mr. Coventry and Mr. Frye apprehending too long a journey, determined to return to Smyrna. The remaining part of our company proceed by break of day in the road for Sardis. Just before we arrive at the fountain on our right hand, about half an hour from our conáck, lies the village of Ishmaeljá. And in an hour and an half from thence we observe Urgánlui on the left. We continue our journey thro a spatious and fertile plain, curiously beset on each side the road with variety of round hillocks, which from their number, figure, and situation, in so level a campain, appear plainly to be artificial. They are undoubtedly the work of one or more numerous armies; but whether they were at first designed to bury their heaps of slain[24] (which was the original of those barrows[25], that occur in many plains of England) or whether they were erected as thrones before the pavilion of the general, which was usual in the Roman camp[26], is not easy to determine.

About the fourth hour crossing a small river we have the village of Baricle on the left hand, and larger than that, the village of Achmetléer on the right. Not far from hence the road divides into two paths for Sardis. The lower of these we chose, tho declining a little too much to the left hand, and so passing by a few cottages, which are called by the name of Zericle, we arrive in seven hours at Sardis, one of which is now likewise to be deducted for the stay, which our mules occasioned.

Instead of that Sardis, which antiently was the seat of the kings of Lydia, afterwards in great renown, under the Persian, Grecian, and Roman Empires, and at last honoured with the title of a Metropolitan Christian church; we now find in the same place, at the foot of mount Tmolus, a small Turkish village by the name of Sart. We here had the liberty of a ruinous inconvenient kane, erected in this place for the service of caraváns from Persia; but we much rather embraced the opportunity of pitching our tents under the covert of a few plane trees, which spread a cool and grateful shade upon the bank of Pactólus. This river is constantly mentioned as rising in Tmolus, and washing the Walls of Sardis, particularly it is said by Herodotus to run thro the very market place of the ancient city[27]. Its chanel does not now appear to be considerable, yet it deserved our particular notice for the fame of its golden streams; a story celebrated not more by poets[28] than historians, the latter of whom have imagined this to be the treasure, whence Croesus and his ancestors collected that mighty wealth.

Before the cool of the evening we visited the ruins of this once flourishing city; and towards the western part observed the standing walls of two or three spatious and lofty rooms, not unworthy the palace of the ancient kings of Lydia. They were all arched towards the foundation, and adorned as well as strengthened at each corner with hewn stone; but the main part of the fabric consisted of a broad and durable brick, which is likewise observable in most of the ancient ruins of Asia Minor. From hence we passed thro heaps of rubbish, and tracks of continued foundations, to the eastern part of the city; where stand the pillars and front of another spatious building, the figure and situation of which persuaded us, that they were the remains of the cathedral church. A little southerly from hence we viewed the full extent of another stately room, which however antient it might be, was nevertheless raised out of ruins more antient than itself; as appeared from several rich pillars, and architraves, confusedly placed among the rubbish of the walls. About the distance of a furlong, full south of the antient city, are to be seen the beautiful remains not of an amphitheatre, as has been supposed, but rather of some royal palace. Here we observed six lofty Ionic pillars, all of them still intire, except that the capital of one is distorted by an earthquake. There adjoins to them a fair and magnificent portal, the pilasters of which, being about twenty feet high, and twelve feet distant from each other, are joined at the top by one entire stone, which, by what art or force it was there erected, is difficult to conceive; for tho Pliny[29] pretends to account for the like difficulty in the architecture of the temple of Ephesus, yet that passage gives but little satisfaction in the matter. There occurs nothing else, that is remarkable about Sardis, besides the broken walls of the castle on an adjoining hill; the ascent and prospect of which, however magnified by Sir Paul Rycaut, we yet thought so inferior, to what we lately had found at Magnesia, that it could not raise our curiosity to undertake the climbing of that precipice, especially since we could promise ourselves the same prospect to a greater advantage from the top of Tmolus; and as for two or three broken inscriptions, which are there extant, we were content to peruse them in Dr. Smith’s printed Journal[30].

April xxviii.

We had now determined our course for Birghée, towards which our way lay over the mountain Tmolus. In pursuance of this design we mounted quickly after three this morning, and by that time it was full day we had ascended the first edge of the hill, where we halted to enjoy the entertaining prospect of the plain of Sardis. We had here the opportunity of viewing the castle hill, the antient seat of the city, the whole course of the Hermus[31], and the full extent of the Gygaean lake, about five miles in length, and three in breadth, mentioned in all ancient accounts of Sardis; but what renders it most remarkable, celebrated of old by Homer[32], and well described by Strabo to be about forty furlongs from the city[33]. This sight had now highly satisfied our curiosity, when we turn to the right hand more into the body of the hill, and contrary to our expectation rarely encounter any difficult ascent, by reason of the artificial windings of the way.

Tmolus is in general so pleasant, that it was easy to conceive ourselves in a theatre, where the scene changes every half hour; for sometimes we were surprized with an impending rock, sometimes with a perpendicular precipice, and sometimes with the murmurs of a falling brook; the whole being curiously garnished with trees, shrubs, and herbs of an infinite variety.

In four hours we had at length conquered the highest eminence of the mountain, whence we continue our journey thro a fruitful vale, enclosed on each side with two lofty ridges of the hill. On each of these remains a large quantity of snow, which, as it gradually melts, supplies a rapid current, that descends hence into Pactólus. It was observable, that the air of the whole vale was chilled to that degree by the neighbouring snows, that it was still winter in this place; nor could we here discern any buds or leaves on the same sorts of trees, which we had seen green and flourishing on the kinder parts of the mountain.

This cool and refreshing vale lasted an hour, after which we begin to descend the hill by a more steep and dangerous way, than we before had mounted; but nothing was more disagreable, than so sensible a change of air, which we now experienced, being as it were at once translated out of the frigid into the torrid zone. Such was the difference betwixt the valley we had left, and the southern part of the hill we were now traveling. This heat being added to the laborious and tedious circuits, without which the descent was absolutely impossible, brought us at length by one of the clock almost half dead to Birghée. Nor were we capable of being refreshed, either with the remembrance of that pleasant mountain, we had passed; or with the view of the Caýstrian plain, which we had then before us.

The rich products of mount Tmolus ought not here to be forgot[34], which nature has furnished with that store and variety of plants, that it may deservedly be termed the physic garden of the universe. The valley, which we mentioned, is enriched with a vein of marble, clear and pellucid enough to contend with alabaster. Nor is it to be neglected, that on the southern descent of the hill we traveled over a continued track of stone, adorned with bright and shining particles resembling gold dust; the occasion most probably of so many splendid epithets, which in antient poetry are bestowed on the Pactólus.

Birghée is a fair and considerable Turkish town, adorned with two very handsome mosques; and pleasantly seated in the road from Sardis, at the opposite foot of Tmolus. This makes it probable, it was the Hypaepae of the antients, that situation exactly answering to the description, which Ovid and Strabo have left us of it[35]. We were here received into a public kane, where we enjoyed an hearty and entire repose; tho sweetened rather by the fatigue of the foregoing day, than any entertainment or accommodation of the place.

April xxix.

We continued our journey by four a clock this morning thro the Caýstrian plain for Tyria, and had the satisfaction of fording that celebrated river about three hours from our conáck. Not far from hence we found a stone bridge of three considerable arches, built directly along the bank of the river; and therefore now serving to no other purpose, but only to witness that the stream had changed its chanel. Our way lay from hence near the course of the Caýster, thro a fertile and well cultivated champain; a place inexpressibly delicious, and which can be equalled by nothing, but the sweetness of that immortal verse:

Ἀσίῳ ἐν λειμῶνι Καϋστρίου ἀμφὶ ῥέεθρα. Iliad. β′. ℣. 461.

Or those of Virgil:

Pelagi volucres, et quae Asia circum

Dulcibus in stagnis rimantur prata Cäystri. Georg. i. 384.

It is inhabited by frequent villages, and enclosed on both sides with two high and snowy mountains, namely Tmolus on the right hand, and on the left what Strabo calls Μεσογειότης[36], or the Midland hills.

Soon after eleven a clock we arrived at Tyria, and conácked in an old, dirty, ruinous kane; having by this time learnt, that the weary and thirsty traveler must repine at no reception, which he meets with in Turkey. Tyria yeilds a pleasant prospect, as we ride into the city, gently ascending from the adjacent plain. The buildings are curiously intermixt with trees and gardens, which extend the circuit of the place; tho the number of its houses seems inferior to that of Smyrna. We counted about fourteen mosques, one of which we observed to be royal, that is, adorned with a double minarée. Having entered the town we found the streets negligently kept, and meanly built; but at the same time populous enough, not without the appearance of a considerable trade. It is to be wondered that so large a city, standing in the very heart of Asia, should have no remains of antiquity[37]. There are indeed two Greek churches in the place, where the poor ignorant priests would persuade both themselves and us, that this was the antient Thyatira; but we thought it not fit to rob them of the satisfaction of this error, nor puzzle them with any accounts of antient geography, or late experience, that evince the contrary.

It is pretended in some journals, that two or three valuable inscriptions are to be found in these churches, tho we were now eye witnesses of the contrary; for there occur’d nothing in that, which they call the Metropolitan church, but a defaced monument, whereon no intelligible words were to be read, except ΧΡΗΣΤΕ ΧΑΙΡΕ. Over the entrance of the other there is a piece of devotion, written in modern characters: but more remarkable, in the body of the wall stands a large image of our Savior, elegantly carved in porphyry; tho it now appears rudely mangled, and seems to have felt the fury of the old angry iconoclastae. In the hand is portrayed an open book, inscribed with this sentence out of St. John’s Gospel, viii. 12. Ἐγώ εἰμι τὸ φῶς τοῦ κόσμου. This was an instance, which may perhaps appear to be singular, at least it is contrary to the general practice, as well as persuasion of the Greek church; for tho they have a superstitious fondness for religious pictures, yet they abhor all imagery in relievo, and look upon it as inclining to heathenism and idolatry.

April xxx.

By six this morning we set forward from Tyria in our way for Ephesus, and passing thro the extreme skirt of the city, we observe the inscription of an ancient stone coffin, now converted by the Turks to supply the use of a cistern. It has been defaced towards the upper parts of the chest, and permitted us to read only these following words:

....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ ......

.... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....

ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-

ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-

ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-

ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-

ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩ

ΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ

Upon the borders of the road, about a mile from Tyria, there stands a commodious fountain, and adjoining thereto a pleasant country house; where, as we staid to drink, an hospitable old Turk offered us the entertainment of the place. We were then obliged to refuse the favour, but not without a fresh regret at the inconveniency of our last night’s lodging, when we might have easily passed on to this advantagous conáck.

We hence travel some hours in a narrow and almost deserted vale, the Caýster still flowing on our right hand; till about one a clock we draw near to the extreme edge of the Alymán, a large mountain lying betwixt the city of Ephesus and the village of Giamobasy, and here ending in an abrupt precipice; on the top of which stands an old castle now converted, as is said, into a college of dervíses. Near this place the Caýster mingles with a large and muddy lake, which most probably was the Stagnum Pegasaeum, mentioned by Pliny[38], as having communication with this river. The Alymán we take to be the Mons Gallesius of the antients[39]; since the Mimas[40], for which some have lately mistaken it, is the highest part of Erythréa, or that cape land, which encloses the bay of Smyrna.

We now thought it more advisable not to reach Ephesus till the cool of the morning, but to pass this evening at Kirkingécui, a Christian village, lying near two hours to the east of the city. In search of this place our guide unfortunately led us to the left of the above mentioned lake, up a steep craggy and almost impassible mountain; which when with great difficulty we had conquered, and descended in a way almost as tedious on the other side, we were acquainted by a traveler, that we were out of our road either to Ephesus or Kirkingécui. This struck a damp upon our spirits, being now obliged to tread back so many unwelcome steps in the heat of the day, despair of all present refreshment, and fearful apprehensions of the miscarriage of our mules. It was therefore voted necessary to hire the above mentioned traveler to conduct us to our village, who accordingly led us by a long and tedious way almost under the castle of Ephesus. But from hence we had an hour and an half of pleasant and diverting riding, betwixt two shelving hills, watered at the bottom with a purling brook; whilst on each side we were entertained with a shady scene of bays, myrtle, oleander, Spanish broom, the plane tree, Judas tree, the strawberry tree, lilach tree, and a multitude of other delightful greens. The frequent stops and misfortunes of this day’s journey had made it almost eight a clock, when we arrived at Kirkingécui; where to our incredible satisfaction we found our tents already pitched by our muliteers, who by an unknown and unbeaten path, over two or three mountains, had at last fallen upon the village, more by good fortune than any conduct of their own.

May i. 1699.

The village of Kirkingécui is intirely Christian, and supposed to be the miserable remains of the church of Ephesus. The παπᾶς, or priest, here pretended to shew us a venerable manuscript of the Evangelists, wrote, as he said, by Prochorus, one of the seven deacons, mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles[41]. Upon inspection the character indeed appeared antient, and possibly may be that of the sixth or seventh century; but the book itself is nothing else but a Lectionarium, or Copy of the Gospels, so portioned into lessons, according to the ritual of the Greek church, that, begining at St. John on Easter day, the four Evangelists are read out by the return of the year. The sight of that manuscript, and of the small parish church, was the business of this morning; after which we descended by the same pleasant road, which we had traveled last night, and so arriving about ten a clock we take possession of the public kane at Ephesus[42].

The once glorious and renowned Ephesus was seated in a fruitful vale, encompassed almost round with mountains[43], at a small distance from the Caýster, and about five miles eastward from cape Trogilium; where, at the common charge of all Ionia, the Panionia, or common councils of Ionia, were formerly celebrated. This vale rises advantagously in the middle with two or three little hills[44], on which the several parts of the antient city lay extended. The same spot of ground is still covered with the rich remains of its former glory. Such are the massy walls, the portals, the arches, the aqueducts, the marble chests, together with the dejected cornishes, shafts, and capitals of many lofty pillars. But the face of the whole yeilds a melancholy and disagreable prospect, being overrun with an incredible quantity of rank and luxuriant weeds, which serve only to corrupt the air, and to conceal the curiosities of the place. This we found to be a disadvantagous circumstance, and such as doubled the labour of this day in compassing the circuit of the city, and tracing the uncertain footsteps of so many valuable antiquities. But because these cannot so intelligibly be represented in the order, in which we viewed them, we shall methodically consider Ephesus, as lying in three distinct ruins of a Turkish, Christian, and Heathen city.

The freshest ruins of this place appear to be Turkish, and such as witness, that it has been in considerable repute even under its last barbarous conqueror; who also has changed the name of Ephesus into that of Aiasalúck. Here are to be seen the remains of five or six mosques, besides one which is still used for Mahometan service. In several places there occur the walls of ruined bagnios, tho they are incredibly increased by the fabulous Turks, and reported to have been here to the number of three hundred and sixty six. But that, which most plainly evidences the late riches of the place, are the many beautiful monuments, which we viewed among their burying places, most of them inscribed with fair Turkish characters. Tis observable, that these are cut rising from the plane of the stone, and not indented within the surface; which is the constant fashion of the Turks in all their public monuments, in opposition to the custom of other times and nations. It is not certain, whether the new castle, which stands to the northward of the old citadel, be of Grecian or Turkish fabric; however it is still kept in repair by the Turks, and filled within the circuit of the walls with fifty or sixty small cottages, which with two or three scattering tenements are the only habitations of the present Ephesus.

For such monuments of Christianity, as are here visited by travelers, we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring Christians; who shew the place of St. Mark’s and St. Paul’s church, together with the standing walls of that dedicated to St. John; which last apostle, returning from his banishment in Patmos upon the death of Domitian, lived, and died, and was interred at Ephesus[45]. The church of St. John, tho still entire, is however miserably transformed, and converted into the profane use of a Turkish mosque. Like all other mosques of the better fashion, it has a square and spacious yard on the north side, with three different entrances belonging to it. Those to the east and west are reasonably well beautified, being adorned above the portals with curious Turkish sculptures, and materials of rich polished marble. From this yard we enter the mosque by five wooden doors, all of which are carved to an exquisite perfection. Within appear a splendid pulpit and kiblé, both consisting of wrought marble, and the latter more particularly imbellished with painting and gilding of great art and variety. But what are most justly admired and celebrated by all, who have traveled hither, are the four pillars of granate marble, standing in a right line from east to west, and supporting two cupolas, that compose the roof. They are so far disproportioned, that the least is almost three, and the biggest near four feet diameter; besides which the pedestals of some are quite covered with the floor, and all besides one, which is of the compound order, have lost their antient capitals. All these are circumstances, which unanswerably demonstrate, that these pillars are now transported from their first places. And in truth, when the whole fabric is diligently compared with all other Turkish mosques, and this consideration further added, that there appears no sign of an altar to the east, or door to the west end; it will be more than probable, that nothing but the southern wall can be the remains of a Christian church. About a mile to the south west of this place, and in the midst of the antient city, stands an high wall, and adjoining thereto a stately gatehouse, in which are these words, most curiously engraven:

.... ACCENSO ....

.... RENSI ET ASIAE ...

Together with this imperfect inscription are to be seen the defaced figure of a man on horseback, and another of a serpent twisted round a tree. This is by most adjudged to be a Christian ruin; and indeed if we consider its beauty and grandeur, as it can be no very modern building, so by reason of its misplaced carvings and inverted inscriptions it cannot be very antient; but may conveniently be refered to those times, in which Christianity began to flourish here. And after this there will be room to put in another conjecture, and to guess from the stateliness of the fabric, that it might be the place, where that famous general council of almost two hundred bishops condemned the heresy of Nestorius, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors are still living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two sects which are numerous in the eastern parts of Asia[46]. Those other Christian monuments, which are commonly shewn at Ephesus, are merely fabulous; and serve only to cheat and abuse the curiosity of many travelers, who undergo no little pains and difficulty in coming hither. Such are the cave of the seven sleepers; the font, in which St. John is said to have baptized so many primitive Christians; and a square watch tower, which ordinarily goes by the name of St. Paul’s prison. This last stands upon a small hill, about a mile nearer the sea, than was the temple of Diana; and is indeed worth visiting by those, who have not so much superstition or credulity; for its situation gives a commanding prospect over the stream of the Caýster, which here seems to rival the Maeander, and plays with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.

The chief heathen antiquities, that are to be seen at Ephesus, are the remainder of the old citadel, and the foundation of the temple of Diana. The former of these is an intire gate, with two broken walls adjoining on each side, which being situated on a convenient ascent, towards the north east of the ancient city, most probably was a sort or citadel, that defended it on that quarter. This gatehouse has the marks of considerable antiquity, tho it has been rebuilt from other more antient ruins; as is evident from some misplaced stones, and broken reversed inscriptions, that occur in the work. Among these are viewed with great satisfaction three flat marble stones, curiously cut in basso relievo; which tho of different design, and unequal breadth, are placed in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.

The first of these marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we front the gate) has been somewhat injured by time; but from the portraiture of grapes and baskets, and four or five figures in gay and youthful postures, it may be presumed to represent a Bacchanal.

The second marble is a military piece, consisting of many intire figures, all cut in postures very bold and masterly, and such as undoubtedly are the work of some noble hand. It designs a warlike horse surprized by an enemy, with his rider lying at his feet; near which several persons are carried captive by Roman soldiers. The chieftain stands by, and is supplicated by a woman in a large loose mantle, whose intercession seems to intercept the action. This has been by some refered to the destruction of Troy, and by others to a Christian persecution; but with greater probability it may be thought to represent the event of some Roman victory.

The third marble is a sepulchral monument, and represents a dead person extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed; the chief mourner sitting, and five other persons standing in a melancholy posture, and lamenting over him. These likewise are very lively figures, and cut with an inimitable perfection.

Of the temple of Diana there are extant no considerable ruins, nor any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bespeak it the remains of that famous structure. But in a marshy ground, near the Lacus Selenusius[47], betwixt the haven Panórmus[48] and the place of the antient city, there stand two broken pieces of a massy wall, in which both the present tradition, and accounts of antient geographers, exactly conspire to prove them the small reliques of the temple. As they themselves consist of square hewn stone, so they are surrounded with heaps of the same materials, among which occur some lofty dejected pillars of beautiful and splendid marble. Under the highest of these ruinous walls there descends an artificial passage, which after two or three short turnings proceeds in a straight line thro many narrow rooms and alleys. This, tho dark and noisome, is customarily visited by travelers, with the assistance of a candle and clue of thread; and is called, by we know not what fancy, the labyrinth of Diana’s temple. But as we observed the like under several large structures, some at Sardis, and others at this very place; so it is notorious, that this is but the ordinary method of strengthening any great foundation, and securing the building by subterraneous arches. Returning from this cavity the traveler has nothing else in view, but venerable heaps of rubbish, and uncertain traces of foundations; and must be forced to supply his curiosity with considering, that this was the place, where once stood and flourished that renowned wonder of the world.

The first temple had been burnt on the same night, in which Alexander the Great was born; and this second was then rebuilding, when that prince was residing at Ephesus, and pursuing his conquests in Asia Minor. He contributed sumptuously to the expence, and afterwards proposed to reimburse the whole, if the Ephesians would consent to inscribe his name upon the fabric[49]. But those citizens had an ambition equal to that of Alexander, and therefore diverted his desires by a fulsom compliment, and the dedication of a famous picture; which was Alexander himself armed with thunder, designed by the inimitable Apelles, and valued at twenty talents of gold[50]. Pliny has likewise told us, that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty seven pillars, each sixty feet high, thirty six of which were carved, and that by the celebrated hand of Scopas. The whole structure was four hundred and twenty five feet in length, and two hundred and twenty feet in breadth; and was founded in this watry ground, out of a vain hope to secure it by that means against time and earthquakes.

These are the most remarkable curiosities either of Turkish, Christian, or Heathen antiquity, which in the space of this afternoon we observed at Ephesus. Besides which we viewed many intire pillars of an aqueduct, that passes over the plain from the southern hills; as also in two places the uncertain footsteps of a theatre; and without the new castle a full face[51], with two serpents (cut on a stone) whose heads meet over it, and their bodies descend on each side. This monument is supposed to represent Diana, in the two characters of Luna and Proserpine. But it is to be wished, that some curious traveler might remain two or three days at Ephesus; during which time by removing the weeds, and clearing the confused ruins, he might possibly discover many valuable inscriptions; as by the benefit of a ladder he might take one or two from the wall above mentioned under the Christian ruins, which to our great dissatisfaction we found not legible from the ground.

Among the few imperfect inscriptions discoverable in so short a stay, the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with mention of his wife and daughter, is once or twice repeated both in Greek and Latin. And ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΗΡΩΔΗΝ, or the name of that ingenious Roman, whose part is so entertaining in the Noctes Atticae of Gellius, is preserved on a fragment among the pillars of the aqueduct. In the same place is frequent mention of M. Antoninus, once particularly on occasion of an honour done by the city to his daughter Fadilla.

ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥ

ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]

This distich likewise on the castle gate is remarkable for the word Ptelea, an old name of Ephesus, which occurs in it.

ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥ

ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ

An invaluable inscription this, if the thing, to which it relates, had been found with it; for it seems to imply the hiding of a medal under the stone, which bore the inscription, that so, when time should destroy the building, the emperor’s face might be communicated to posterity.

Our way did not lead us by the aqueduct six miles from the city, in which is to be seen that large Latin and Greek inscription, printed in Sir George Wheler’s Travels[53]. Nor did we find those imperfect lines, which he took from a stone half buried in the ground[54]. But there is this perfect inscription on a stone near the gate of the old citadel, with which we shall here finish our account of Ephesus.

Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝ

ΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-

ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣ

ΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ

May ii.

It was a rainy and tempestuous morning, when, as we lay yet a sleep in the public kane, a terrible clap of thunder discharged itself seemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noise awakened us in great astonishment; and our eyes were no sooner opened, but the whole place seemed to be filled with a red blaze of fire. Each person was first solicitous for the safety of his companions, and afterwards for that of the horses, which were dispersed in their stations about the door. But finding that we had received no detriment, either in our goods or persons, we blessed God for our deliverance; and concluded by an infallible argument, that the displosion must needs be extremely near us, in that the light continued for some time after the sound.

We mount by six a clock, and now determine our return to Smyrna; to which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top of the Alymán; upon which account we thought it preferable to take the way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of the Caýster, and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of the Alymán, and that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as we rode from Tyria. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for want of water. About four hours and a quarter from Ephesus we descry on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of the castle of Metropolis; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added, that computing our way by hours, as Strabo does by furlongs[55], we did not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a third part of the distance betwixt Ephesus and Smyrna. Not far from hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our right hand, which probably is the Phyrites of Pliny[56] mingling, as he describes it, with the Caýster, not far from the Stagnum Pegasaeum, or that lake, which we before observed in our way from Tyria to Ephesus. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture, overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents of Turcmen. They had here pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed from Scythia; so these Turcmen seem to be the peculiar descendants of the Nomades Scythae, or Shepherd Scythians, and like them make it their employment to breed and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of this desert empire.

In two hours and three quarters from Metropolis we arrive at Trianta, a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very healthful air; where we proposed to conáck this evening. An agá here hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.

May iii.

By seven a clock we leave Trianta, crossing a little river within the limits of the village, and at an hour’s distance another of the same bigness; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom of the plain, must be the antient Halésus, that ran into the sea at Colophon. We continue in a large and beaten road, leaving Giamóbashy on our left hand, till having Sedícui now in view, we cross over a watry bottom to shorten our way thither. Here we arrive about ten a clock, and stop to refresh ourselves in the consul’s country house; where after a long disuse of chairs, which are not the fashion of the Turks, we once more had the pleasure of sitting down to diner.

Having mounted soon after three, the worshipful consul Raye, with several gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour to meet us about two miles distance from the village. On these therefore we waited home the remainder of our way, and so returned before six a clock in good health to Smyrna; having been much obliged to Mr. Whalley for his care and conduct, as well as mutually to one another for that chearful and unanimous temper, which sweetened all our travels, and deceived the several fatigues of this laborious journey.

An Account of a voyage from Smyrna to Constantinople, and a journey back from thence to Smyrna, in the year MDCCI.

March xxvi.

This day I took my passage for Constantinople on board the King William galley, captain Nehemiah Winter commander, and accordingly went on board at six a clock in the evening; being favoured with the company of Mr. Dunster, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Clotterbooke, who after a short repast returned a shore. On the same ship imbarked for Constantinople the barút agá of Smyrna, with his harém, and a numerous family.

March xxvii.

We set sail this morning with a gentle gale, which served us as far as St. George’s island, that lies before the harbour of Fochia Vecchia, that is Phocaea; betwixt which and the sand head, occasioned by the discharge of the river Hermus, we came to an anchor at the approach of the evening.

March xxviii.

We set sail early this morning with little or no wind, the whole day continuing calm till towards the evening; when the gale began to grow fresh, and favouring us all night advanced us betwixt the main land of Aeolia and the island of Mitylene, or Lesbos, leaving the bay of Cuma, now called Sotaléa, upon our right hand.

March xxix.

This morning with a contrary and very gentle gale we turn betwixt the island and the main, having a fair view of the harbour, city, and castle of Mitylene[57]; the last of which seems to be large and well walled, declining with a moderate descent on the side of a gentle hill. The same coast of the island is stored with many pleasant and considerable villages, well furnished with arable and pasture ground, and large woods at a distance, said to abound with deer. This day we advanced no farther than the isles of Musconisia, formerly Arginusae[58], situated betwixt the continent of Aeolia and the island of Mitylene. Here therefore we came to anchor about midday, lying opposite to the mouth of the Idaean or Adramyttian gulph, made by the two promontories of Cana on one side, and Lecton on the other, and fenced towards the continent of Troas (for so that whole region may be called) with the snowy and aspiring top of mount Ida.

March xxx.

This morning the wind springing fair about four a clock, we advance betwixt the island of Mitylene and the main of Aeolia, the narrowed bogáz is made by cape Siguri, antiently Sigrium, on the island side, and cape Babá, formerly Lecton, on that of the main. Near midday we begin to turn this latter cape, and thereby to gain the sight of Imbros and Tenedos; Lemnos not discovering itself till some hours afterwards, as we advanced with calm weather betwixt Tenedos and the Trojan shore; when the low land of Lemnos, with the round and exalted top of Athos on the other side of it, gave us a delightful prospect.

March xxxi.

This day turning to windward, we advance by nine a clock between the town of Tenedos and the Trojan shore, the narrow distance of about six or seven miles allowing us a distinct prospect of each. Tenedos is a middle sized compact town, fortified with a castle, seated immediately on the shore, and fenced toward the land with a round hill; but exposed to the sea without the advantage of any deep gulph, or commodious harbour. The whole island is green and level, and has the appearance, as well as reputation, of a rich and fertile soil. The wind not favouring us from hence, we proceed slowly the whole day with calm and serene weather; and turning betwixt Tenedos and the Phrygian continent, after enjoying the delightful sight of the Trojan campain on one side, and of Tenedos, Imbros, and Samothracia on the other, we anchored about six in the evening under the celebrated promontory of Sigéum.

April i.

Early in the morning we endeavour to make sail from Sigéum, but being taken in a dead calm, we were employed the whole day in warping, that so passing the mouth of the Hellespont we might lie (if occasion should so require) sheltered by the new castle, and the point on which it stands. Having with great fatigue made two or three warps, the wind at length favoured us so far, as to advance us two leagues within the said new castle of Natolia, when the captain thought it better to anchor, than to proceed in so narrow a chanel and so dark a night.

At this place it will be most proper to set down my thoughts of Troy, and the whole Trojan shore, which for the space of three days I viewed at a convenient distance in calm and serene weather from the poop of the ship, feeding my eyes and mind with an eager and boundless curiosity. That, which in a large sense was called of old by Strabo, as at present by the modern Greeks, the campain of Troas, begins at the promontory of Lecton, and then fronting the isle of Tenedos ends in a delicious green and level country, as far as the strait of the Hellespont. But from the begining of this strait we sail by the main of that, which is properly to be called the campain of Troy. And because our modern travelers give a wild and indistinct account of this famous place, I shall endeavour to describe the bounds, and situation of it, in as clear and distinct terms as possible.

From cape Sigéum (whence antiently was computed the entrance of the Hellespont) you sail about five miles, till you come opposite to the mouth of the Scamander; and from thence about two miles farther to a small prominence of land, by the antients called Rhoetéum. Betwixt this Rhoetéum and Sigéum, the marine, which bent in an even uninterrupted semicircle, afforded a commodious station for the Grecian fleet[59]. But as Strabo well observes, that in his time the Scamander began to interrupt this station, by the sand it discharges on the shore; so it has since gained more considerably on the sea, and formed that whole tongue of land, on which is now built the new castle of Natolia. However in the days of Priam the shore was undoubtedly more regular, as well as more retired. And opposite thereto in the adjoining continent, at such a distance as would admit the engagements, the flights, the pursuits, and the encampments of each army (as they are all described by Homer) we are to conceive of the walls and buildings of antient Troy. But still we must be cautious of pointing out, and distinguishing the very place; since in the reign of Tiberius Caesar we are assured by Strabo, that there remained not the least footstep of antient Troy to satisfy the curiosity of the most searching traveler[60]. So vain are the accounts of our modern journalists, who pretend to have seen the walls, the gates, or other ruins of Troy; that, which now remains, being nothing but the rubbish of new Ilium, or of that city once attempted there by Constantine.

April ii.

We endeavour this morning to continue our voyage, but make no considerable progress; because the gentle gale, that favoured us, could not prevail against the current of the Hellespont, which perpetually flows with a full and rapid course into the Aegéan sea. We therefore drive back, and content ourselves with coming to an anchor in the same place, from whence we weighed this morning; taking the opportunity of going to dine on the Asian shore. After midday a fresher wind advanced us within a small distance from the old castles; where it again deserted us, and obliged us to drop anchor a second time, to maintain the way we had gained in opposition to the violent stream of this chanel.

April iii.

We continue anchored at the same place, being all this day entirely becalmed. And the day following, the calm having changed into a contrary wind detained us still at the same anchor. But however disagreeable this interruption in the course of our voyage might prove to some others of the company, the leisure of those two days was to me very grateful. Nor could I esteem it any loss of time, but rather an advantage, on account of the favourable and unexpected opportunity it afforded me of visiting two so famous castles, together with the villages adjoining to them[61]. Going ashore therefore in the captain’s pinnace to the town on the Asian side (formerly called Abýdos[62], but by the Turks Eskí Natolia Hisar) with great pleasure I walked about the place, but found no footsteps of antiquity[63]. The town is large, but mean; yet famous for a curious sort of earthen ware finely glazed, which is made here, and vended in great quantities. The castle is intire, of a square figure, with bastions projecting at each corner, and with one side flanks the water on a level shore; where are to be seen betwixt twenty and thirty vast guns, such as perhaps are no where else to be found, except in some other parts of Turkey. They are of brass, and have a bore at least three quarters of a yard diameter; and are charged with stone bullets of the same dimensions, which lie at hand spherically cut. The charge of powder, as I was informed on the place by the barút agá of Smyrna, is an hundred and five okes. From Abýdos I crossed over in a small wherry to Sestos[64], that is, from Natolia to Rumeli Hisar, and in the way observed the art of the boatman in avoiding the force of the current, a circumstance mentioned by Strabo[65]. This town stands on a precipice, descending steeply towards the sea shore; and is better built, tho less, than Abýdos. It has a castle consisting of a triangular tower, enclosed within an high wall of this

figure, and that again with another triangular wall, all surrounded with a deep foss. In the same level with the water are mounted about thirty guns, of the same or rather bigger size than those of Natolia Hisar; and by each lie great heaps of stones, cut spherically to the dimensions of each canon. In relation to this town of Sestos, and the tower of Leander, once adjoining to the shore a little above the town, I remembered that request of Musaeus:

Σὺ δ’ εἴποτε κεῖθι περήσεις,

Δίζεό μοι τινὰ πύργον[66].

April v.

This morning a fresh wind favouring us at south west we set sail by six a clock, and passing the forementioned castles, within a league on the European shore, arrive at the town Maitos, antiently Madytos[67], seated on a low land within a small recess of the sea, and inhabited intirely by Greeks. The campain on each side is delightful to the traveler, as well as fertile to the inhabitants; being for the most part of a level situation, and in the neighbourhood of the villages it possesses, well cultivated and distinguished into pastures. About three leagues from Maitos we view on the same shore two pleasant and well situated villages, by the name of the Lesser and Greater Galata. Thence about the distance of two leagues we arrive betwixt Lampsacus on the Asian, and Callipolis on the European shore; the former a small town, and the latter a city of no inconsiderable extent; so that now they have changed their fortune, and that character, which they bore in the time of Strabo[68]. About twelve leagues from Callipolis lies the island Marmora, exceeding high ground, abounding with rich veins of durable and pretious marble; the same of which has given it the name of Marmora, instead of the ancient Proconésus. Adjoining to this are two lesser isles, Kutali and Alonia, the latter eminent for the product of excellent wines. Betwixt these islands and the beautiful Thracian shore, which here graces the Propontis, we were advanced by a brisk and favourable gale at the approach of the evening, and from thence are now continuing our voyage, with the same auspicious wind, and hopes, if God permit, to arrive at Constantinople early by to morrow morning.

April vi.

Before ten last evening the wind having changed to our disadvantage, we find ourselves this morning but little advanced from Marmora; however by the benefit of turning to windward, we proceeded this day about the distance of ten leagues. Every other tack brought us near to the Thracian shore, and entertained us with a fair view of the most green and fertile campain I ever yet beheld. By the same means we enjoyed the opportunity of seeing the famous port and city of Heracléa, built behind a small eminence, which protends itself into the sea, and forms an haven on each side of the city. Not far from hence stands on the same shore the fair town of Selymbria; near which the night now overtakes us, and deprives us of that delicious prospect, which the whole day afforded us, of the feilds of Thrace. It was on this day, that captain Winter wanting his log line to be brought him from a chest in the great cabin, was not permitted by the barút agá to send any person down for it, by reason of his harém being there. At length he yeilded to let the captain’s son go, a child of about eight years of age.

April vii.

Early this morning I betake myself to the enjoyment of the same diverting prospect, whilst the ship, by the benefit of tacking, passes by Grande and Piccolo Ponte; and so betwixt nine and ten of the clock comes to an anchor within a short league of the Seven Towers, a castle which forms the extreme point of Constantinople. Here we continued wind bound the remainder of this day, because the narrowness of the chanel, into which we were now to enter; and the force of the current, which runs very rapidly out of the Thracian Bosphorus; did not suffer us to advance against the violent north wind.

April viii.

This morning about nine a clock the wind, which changed nothing of its point, yet abated so much of its strength, that it permitted us to turn from the Seven Towers along the bending walls of Constantinople, as far as the Seraglio point. But the violence of the current prohibiting us to make the harbour of Galata, the ship was again obliged to drop anchor, and wait till she could either make sail with a fair wind, or take the opportunity of a calm to be towed in by hamáls. We had not long cast anchor, when my esteemed freind, Mr. Matthias Goodfellow, was pleased to visit me on board the ship; and carrying me ashore in the boat, which brought him, first introduced me to his excellency, the Lord Paget, and then kindly allotted me a pleasant and convenient apartment in his house at Galata.

April xiii.

This day I attended the funeral of Signior Demetrasco, chief dragoman to the English ambassador, who tho by faith a Latin, yet by birth was of the Greek nation. And accordingly in the way of burying proper to this latter, I observed the manner of carrying the corps of the deceased barefaced, clothed in his late usual habit, and supported by four of his nearest relations; who were followed by women slaves, hired to make a hideous pomp, by tearing their hair, extorting forced and counterfeit tears, and repeating in a continual loud and frightful lamentation, ὦ ἀφέντη μου; that is, O my master!

April xv.

I paid a visit to Signior Rombarts, a gentile and ingenious merchant of the Dutch nation, at his house in Curuchesmée, a village on the Thracian Bosphorus. Here I observed a sophá room remarkably adorned after the richest Turkish fashion, the roof formed into a cupola, and the gilding and painting of the whole so splendidly curious, that it amounted at first to the sum of four thousand hungárs, or two thousand pounds sterling.

April xvii.

I took the opportunity of passing over the chanel to Constantinople, in company of Signior Wright, the Dutch minister of this place, with whom I visited the mint; the Grand Signior’s lions; and the mosques of Sultan Solymán, Sultan Bajazet, Sultan Achmét, and the Validée. That of Bajazet and the Validée are adorned only with two minarées, that of Solymán with four, and that of Achmét with six. They all much resemble one another, both in the inward and outward figure. They first consist of a spatious court, enriched all round with fair and regular cloisters formed by pillars, some of whose shafts are carved with white marble, some with serpentine stone, and some with porphyry; but all the capitals are of the modern Turkish figure. Next is the body of the mosque, covered outwardly with domes, and supported inwardly with four massy pillars, from the tops of which rises a regular cupola, forming the roof of the whole mosque. Whoever exactly compares the beauty and grandeur of these several mosques, will find that of Solymán more regular, and artificial in the outward frame; that of Achmét more magnificent in the whole, and on the outside more beautiful in the work of the pillars; that of the Validée, tho less in bulk and extent than the other two, yet more curious in the inward ornaments and workmanship than either; and that of Bajazet, which is the oldest, inferior to the rest both in bulk and beauty, except that some cast pillars, which form the cloisters of the court, consist of a more polite, shining, and pretious stone.

The same morning I visited the antient cirque of this city, a large oblong space flanked on three sides with the houses of the city, and on the fourth with the walls of the mosque of Sultan Achmét. Therein stand three pillars, the first of square stone, formerly covered with gilded brass, at the end of the cirque, and supposed to have been the goal of the stadium. It now declines much, having suffered greatly by time, and openings in the several joints of the stones. The second pillar is of wreathed brass, not above twelve feet high, lately terminated at the top with figures of three serpents rising from the pillar, and with their necks and heads forming a beautiful triangle. But this monument was rudely broken from the top of the pillar by some attendants of the late Polish ambassador, whose lodgings were appointed in this cirque, opposite to the said pillar[69]. The third pillar is a long square stone, or obelisk, decreasing gradually from its basis, till it ends almost in a point. The matter is granate, or Theban marble; and each side is engraven with birds, beasts, and other hieroglyphical figures[70]. This had once lain upon the ground, and, as we may conceive from the inscriptions, a considerable time; till Theodosius erected it on a large and square basis, adorned on each side with various images; and having fixt on the top of this basis four brass supporters, on these he set the aforesaid hieroglyphical Theban column. There is a Latin inscription on one side of the basis, and a Greek one on the other, importing what I here mention concerning the erection of the pillar. The Greek runs thus:

ΚΙΟΝΑ ΤΕΤΡΑΠΛΕΥΡΟΝ ΑΕΙ ΧΘΟΝΙ ΚΕΙΜΕΝΟΝ ΑΧΘΟϹ

ΜΟΥΝΟϹ ΑΝΑϹΤΗϹΑΙ ΘΕΥΔΟϹΙΟϹ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΥϹ

ΤΟΛΜΗϹΑϹ ΠΡΟΚΛΟϹ[71] ΕΠΕΚΕΚΛΕΤΟ ΚΑΙ ΤΟϹΟϹ ΕϹΤΗ

ΚΙΩΝ ΗΕΛΙΟΙϹ ΕΝ ΤΡΙΑΚΟΝΤΑ ΔΥΩ

The Latin thus:

DIFFICILIS QVONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS

IVSSVS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS

OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SOBOLIQVE PERENNI[72]

TER DENIS SIC VICTVS EGO DOMITVSQVE DIEBVS[73]

The remaining verse, mentioned by Sir George Sandys, is now covered in the ground[74].

April xxii.

This day having first visited Mr. Schrever (then ill of the plague, of which he died two days after) in a small boat of the countrey, in company with Mr. Goodfellow and Mr. Evans, I made a tour up the Thracian Bosphorus. This chanel we may conceive to begin from the point of Scutari on one side, and that of Tophana on the other; from whence in a winding figure, graced on each side with seraglios of the chief courtiers of this empire, and on the marine with almost continued villages, as also two castles in the narrowest part, it extends about eighteen or twenty miles, as far as the antient rocky isles of the Symplegades, which seem to open and shut, as one advances to them in the Bosphorus[75]. The largest of them is situated on the European shore, and till lately bore an antient Corinthian pillar, to which a vulgar error has given the name of Pompey’s column. It was erected not on a regular basis of its own, but upon an antient heathen altar, that now only remains; the shaft and capital of the pillar, which have lately fallen, being yet visible in four pieces among the cliffs of the rock. On the aforesaid remaining altar may be read this inscription in large Roman letters.

DIVO CAESARI AUGVSTO

L. CL. ANNIDIVS

L. F. CLAV. FRONTO[76]

Returning from this pillar we stept on the adjoining shore, to see the large and lofty lantern there erected for the direction of mariners at the entrance of this difficult strait. About four miles from hence, in returning thro the chanel, we go ashore on the European side to visit a famous convent of Greek priests, by the name of Mauromolos, seated in the cliff of an hill, and enjoying a beautiful church, adorned with many rich pieces of religious furniture; as books bound in covers of massy silver; an ἁγία πύλη, or sacred curtain[77], wrought both richly and artfully in silk and golden figures; and a set of painting not of the vulgar sort, but regular and proportionable, the most curious of which was done in Muscovy. These fathers are exempted from their harách, on account of a present of excellent fair cherries, once presented to the Grand Signior. Over a fountain, that serves the convent with water, they have this device, not more proper for the place, than ingenious for the contrivance, in making the same words read forwards or backwards:

ΝΙΨΟΝ ΑΝΟΜΗΜΑΤΑ ΜΗ ΜΟΝΑΝ ΟΨΙΝ[78]

I was this day a witness of the strong current flowing towards the Propontis from the Euxine sea, as I had before observed it to force into the Mediterranean from the ocean. Both which are taken notice of by Lucan:

Quaque fretum torrens Maeotidos egerit undas

Pontus, et Herculeis aufertur gloria metis,

Oceanumque negat solas admittere Gades[79].

April xxvi.

This day I crossed the water from Galata to visit the antient Chalcédon, where I saw the poor Greek church dedicated to St. Euphemia[80]; and a little distant from the present village, the place where was held the fourth general council. Returning we row under the shore, to see the Grand Signior’s beautiful seraglio near Scutari. When Chalcédon was an eminent city, which is now reduced to a slender village; Scutari, which by a contrary event is at present a fair and spatious city, was a poor and ignoble village, tho it then had the name of Chrysopolis, as we find by Zosimus[81].

April xxviii.

I retired to Belgrade, a small Greek village, seated about twelve miles from Constantinople, and about five from the Euxine sea; where the English ambassador has a countrey seat. It is pleasantly situated among large woods of oak, beech, chesnut, and other trees, and enjoys an healthy air and water. Here I took the opportunity of riding to visit the famous aqueducts of Constantinople, distant from this village about six miles, which were built by Valentinian the first[82], accurante Clearcho praefecto, as Cassiodorus says[83]; and afterwards repaired by Solymán the Magnificent, who exempted twelve adjacent Greek villages from the customary tribute of this empire, for the care he enjoined them of keeping these aqueducts in repair. The most remarkable of them are three great and lofty fabrics, built over so many valleys betwixt the adjoining hills, of which the longest has many but less arches, and may possibly be the entire work of Solymán. The other two have the appearance of a more antient and regular architecture, consisting of two rows of arches one over the other; and those of the second row enclosed by pillars cut thro the middle, so as to render the fabric both passable like a bridge, and useful for the conveyance of water. The more considerable of these two consists only of four large arches, each twenty yards long, and something above twenty high, supported by octangular pillars of about fifty six yards in circumference towards the bottom. The village of Belgrade is likewise honoured with two royal kiosks, the one of the Grand Signior, the other of the Validée; each situated in two delightful recesses of the neighbouring wood, and adorned with natural avenues thro lofty groves of beech, oak, and chesnut. At each of these kiosks the waters of the public aqueduct are gathered into fair and ample cisterns of hewn stone, from whence they pass in arched chanels under ground to the royal city.

May vii.

After a pleasant retirement of ten days at Belgrade I returned to my lodgings at Galata, to take the opportunity of seeing the remaining curiosities of Constantinople.

May viii.

I walked almost thro the extent of the whole city to visit the famous pillar of Arcadius, a lofty and aspiring fabric, of the Doric order, built with a wonderful regularity and exactness of architecture, bearing on the basis, and on the whole shaft from top to bottom, various warlike figures of men in arms, chariots, galleys, and other ornaments, which in a spiral manner encircle the whole pillar; every figure being so well proportioned to the distance, from whence it is seen, that those at the top, the middle, and the bottom, appear to the eye exactly of the same size. Returning from this pillar I passed by the old pillar of Aurátbasar, defaced by the several conflagrations of the city, and bound in several places with rings of iron by the care and charge of the emperor Manuel, as is witnessed by this inscription on the top.

ΤΟ ΘΕΙΟΝ ΕΡΓΟΝ ΕΝΘΑΔΕ ΦΘΑΡΕΝ ΧΡΟΝΩ

ΚΑΙΝΟΙ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΕΥϹΕΒΗϹ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ

From this pillar I was desirous of passing thro Atmeidan, that is the hippodromus, or cirque above mentioned, to review the mosque of Sultan Achmét, and make a stricter observation on the three pillars there erected. Here I was informed, that the brass serpentine pillar was erected by the emperor Leo, as a charm against the noisom number of serpents, which in his time infested the city; the same person superstitiously affirming, that since the late defacement of this pillar, by the breaking of the serpents heads, the city was again molested by innumerable noxious serpents. At the foot of the old pillar, formerly covered with brass, I read the remains of that inscription once taken by Sir George Sandys, but since his time part of it buried with earth, and part broken away; which is very erroneously printed in his Travels[84]. On the basis of the hieroglyphical pillar I observed the carved representation of the pillar it self, together with the figures of men labouring to erect it.

May ix.

By the interest of a Greek, who serves the bostangí bashá as his surgeon, I was admitted in company of Mr. John Philips, an eminent merchant, into the great seraglio of Constantinople, where we passed thro two courts, that form the entry of the palace; the first of which has a small arsenal, furnished with arms and ammunition; the second has piazzas on two sides, in which the janisaries are wont to eat, and opens at the upper end into the diván. From these two courts we were permitted to walk round the full extent of the garden, on each side of the palace. They are rude and wild places, affording nothing that is entertaining, but that wherewith nature has furnished them, which is an admirable situation rising into convenient ascents, and capable of infinite improvement, if it were happily in the possession of a Christian prince. The whole plat of ground, which they call the gardens of the seraglio, is covered with cypress and other trees, thro which are cut shady walks, where kiosks are seen of various sorts; the most eminent and remarkable of which is that called the Blew kiosk, fronting the town of Scutari. This and the other called the Alaí kiosk, fronting the city of Galata, are rich and splendid pleasure houses, covered with a gilded cupola, and adorned in their several walls with Indian tiles, and stately chimneypieces of solid brass. Passing thro the extent of the seraglio towards the extreme point, that looks up the Thracian Bosphorus, you observe a Corinthian pillar consisting of white marble, of which the ignorant Turks report a fabulous and ridiculous account; but its true original is discovered by this inscription on one plane of the basis:

FORTVNAE REDVCI OB

DEVICTOS GOTHOS[85]

On the opposite plane is likewise this religious device:

Near this pillar we were admitted thro a gate, which opens into a green court, and that again into a garden kept in somewhat a regular order. From hence we ascend by a few steps into an apartment of the Grand Signior, where are two rich kiosks, a fish pond, a paved walk, and an open gallery. Here we were shewn the lodgings, where the unhappy princes of the empire are detained prisoners, as also the dark chambers of the ichoglans, and the door that leads into the harém of the Grand Signior. There also are shewn two or three instances of the strength and the activity of Sultan Morát; as a ponderous round stone, which with one finger he is said to have lifted by a ring fixt therein; likewise five thick and substantial sheilds, which being placed upon one another were peirced thro by a cast of his jiríd still sticking in them; also several silver pellets thrown by him with that violence, as to stick in an iron door. The above mentioned gallery is rich and splendid, adorned with various gilding of flower work, and supported with beautiful serpentine pillars. In the sides of one of the kiosks are three orbicular stones of fine porphyry, the middlemost of which is curiously polished, and thereby serves to reflect the prospect of the seraglio and adjoining city, in the nature of a looking glass. At the further end of the garden of the seraglio are the intire walls of an antient Christian church, and near to that the aviary of the Grand Signior, where I observed the hens of Grand Cairo, having blue gills and feathers curiously coloured with grey circles, and in the center of each a spot of black.

This day I retired again to Belgrade, for the advantage of its healthy air and water, and the entertainment of its shady situation. Hence on the twelfth instant I made a tour towards Domuzderé, and the shore of the Black Sea, on which we rode for some space of ground, and returned by that called Ovid’s Tower, thro a fertile tract of ground, curiously varied with corn, grass, and shady woods.

May xx.

I returned again to my lodgings at Galata, and the next day crossed the water in company with Mr. Goodfellow to Constantinople, where after a visit to the mosque of Solymán the Magnificent, we obtained leave to ascend one of the minarées, from which the muezins call the Turks to their namáz, being about an hundred and twenty feet high. Here we took a delightful prospect of the whole situation and extent of Stambol, as likewise of Galata, Pera, and Scutari, with the neighbouring seas, canals, and land that encloses them. But the peculiar happiness of this day was the employment of about two hours, which we leisurely spent in viewing the stupendous church of Sophía[86], now profaned by its conversion into a Turkish mosque. It chiefly merits the regard of any curious traveler for the reliques of its rich mosaic work; the variety of pretious marble[87], which adorns it, consisting of serpentine, alabaster, and porphyry; and the architecture of its large and flat tho sublime cupola[88], in which are still the entire figures of Christ and the twelve Apostles, and in the windows many inscriptions in mosaic work from the New Testament.

May xxiii.

I returned again to Belgrade, as well for the opportunity of confirming my health, as for continuing my respects to his Excellency the Lord Paget.

June vi.

I waited on his Excellency from Belgrade to Pera, going first to Boiukderé and thence down the Bosphorus by boat.

June x.

I waited on his Excellency, as well to wish him a good journey, as to receive his commands for Smyrna.

June xiii.

I returned to the house of my esteemed freind, Mr. Goodfellow, in Galata; and the day following took leave of the Dutch ambassador and his family.

June xvi.

I made a visit by boat to the Seven Towers, now a prison for persons of quality, since by the fate of war it has fallen into the hands of the Turks, but antiently the Porta Janicula of Constantinople. The beautiful remains of this gate are still admirable, tho by the Turks suffered to be almost concealed by a dead wall, and the shade of the neighbouring trees. It is a regular and carved arch of white marble, supported by two beautiful pillars, adorned in the pilasters with a sculpture representing several military affairs, and flanked on each side the pillars with twelve tablets of carved work extremely well performed, which contain several poetical stories. Among the rest is Hercules and the Nemeaean lion, the beast prodigious and terrible, but confessing its conqueror by an agreable posture; Luna and Endymion; a winged Pegasus, managed by some of the Muses; a pourtraiture of the known combat of whirlbats; and an imperial figure, crowned by two celestial machines.

Returning by boat along the walls of the city, I observed its crooked figure and posture to the sea; and noted also the several square towers variously interspersed at unequal distances, each bearing an inscription much to the same purport, as may be seen by the following copy, which I took of them in the boat.

On a tower near the Porta Janicula:

ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΩΝϹΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ

Κ̅Ω̅ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ

On a tower in that part of the wall, which includes the seraglio:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΜΕΓΑΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΚΥΡΙΩ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ

ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ.

Round the same seraglio:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΧΡΙϹΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ

About the same place:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΙΧΑΗΛ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ Κ̅Ω̅

ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ.

June xvii.

About midday I saw the ceremonies of the dervíse convent of the order called Meuleví at Pera, consisting of their namáz, somewhat longer than is ordinary at other times and places. After which followed a sermon, that is, a gallimaufry of dreams and nonsense, pronounced by the prior of the convent, as he sat cross-leg’d on the seat of a two elbowed wooden chair. This was succeeded by their music in a gallery over the door; during which about fourteen dervíses led up a religious dance in the area of their theatre (for such is the figure and contrivance of it) in which they turn round almost in the same place with incredible swiftness, without either weariness or giddiness, for the space of half an hour. By this exercise their brain is so habitually fortified against dizziness, that one of them was able to hand upon the half moon of a minarée belonging to the Solymanjá, and from thence to salute the Grand Signior at his palace of Cushcui, at the same time firing off a pistol, and drinking a dish of coffee.