The New Cookery Books

I
The Soup and Sauce Book

THE
NEW COOKERY BOOKS.

By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.

Fcap. 8vo, cloth 2s. each.

I.
THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.
II.
THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.
III.
THE PASTRY AND SWEET BOOK.

London: GRANT RICHARDS.

The
Soup and Sauce Book

By
Elizabeth Douglas

London
Grant Richards
48 Leicester Square

Preface

The English—to their loss—are not a soup-eating nation; and for the most part, those of us that do care for soups are obstinately conservative in our tastes. The ordinary restaurant thinks it has done its duty when ox-tail, mock-turtle and tomato soup have been included in the bill of fare. Yet the range of soups is very wide, as the hundred pages of recipes (by no means exhaustive) that follow will show; and that they may lead some readers to add to the elasticity of the domestic menu, is the ambition of the compiler. All are good, few are expensive, and none exotic. I should like it to be understood also that the directions need not be considered absolutely final. Every recipe can be made the basis of mild experiment, by slight differences in the ingredients or quantities. Two final remarks: soup never ought to be served in large quantities (our tendency in England when we take it is to take too much); and in the preparation of it the first and last word is “simmer.”

E. D.

Table of Contents

Soups

[Sauces]

General Remarks on Stock

Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call potages maigres, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used. For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock, according to their colour.

Stock will keep for several days—in winter for a week.

A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the flavour of a poor stock.

Utensils.—Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French pot au feu, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.

It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar, and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.

Wooden or silver spoons should be used.

The fire.—In making stock it is most important to have a steady fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side only of the pot.

To prepare fresh meat for stock.—Look over the meat carefully. Cut away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom of the pot that is to be used.

Vegetables.—In hot weather it is better to make stock without vegetables, as they often turn it sour.

See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour, or their flavour will be impaired.

Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.

Herbs.—To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a bouquet (i.e. a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage, thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.

Seasoning.—It is not necessary to season the original stock. In making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground pepper, and one clove.

To remove fat from stock.—Every particle of fat must be removed from the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how much fat is removed.

To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold. The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will absorb all the fat.

If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been put in very cold water and wrung out.

To clarify stock for clear soups.—The addition of a little cold water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be clear.

To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg. Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup, put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure, shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.

Straining.—It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl, with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or muslin over the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any pressure.

The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine and absolutely clean and sweet.

Stocks

Common Stock

1 lb. shin of beef
1 quart cold water
Two or three vegetables

Cut the meat up into small pieces. Put it in a sauce-pan, and add the water. Allow it to stand for half-an-hour. Then put it on the fire. Let it come to the boil slowly. Simmer for two hours. Strain.

Brown Soup Stock

3 lbs. shin of beef
1 lb. bones
3 quarts cold water
2 carrots, 1 turnip
2 stalks of celery
3 onions
3 cloves
Bouquet of herbs

Cut the meat into small pieces. Break the bones. Put three ounces of butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, add to it one-third of the meat and the onions sliced. Stew gently until a rich brown. Put with the rest of the meat, bones, etc., in a sauce-pan. Cover with water. Bring to the boil. Simmer four hours. Strain.

Clear Brown Stock

2 lbs. shin of beef
1 lb. knuckle of veal
The carcase and bones of a fowl
3 pints of water
1 carrot
1 onion with a clove stuck in it
1 stick of celery
1 piece of parsley
A small bouquet of herbs

Put the bones at the bottom of a sauce-pan. Place the meat, which should be cut up in small pieces, upon them. Cover with cold water. Leave the sauce-pan uncovered. Bring to the boil very slowly. When it boils throw in a half cup of cold water. (This will cause the scum to rise.) Skim. Bring to the boil again. Throw in a little more cold water. Skim. Bring to the boil. Add the vegetables. Set back on the fire, and allow it to simmer gently for three or four hours.

Strain through a napkin into a bowl and allow it to cool.

If required the soup can be further clarified ([p. 4]).

Consommé

1 lb. shin of beef
1 lb. veal
The bones and carcases of fowls or game
2 quarts of stock
Vegetables
The white of an egg

Cut away all fat from the meat. Chop it up finely. Put the white of an egg in a basin. Add to it the chopped meat. Mix them well together with a silver spoon. Stir in a glass of cold water. Put the meat into a large sauce-pan. Add vegetables, the bones and carcases of birds. Cover with two quarts of good stock. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking to the sauce-pan.

When it boils, set back to simmer gently for three hours. Dip a napkin in hot water, wring it out, and strain the stock through it into a basin.

Chicken Stock

1 old fowl
1 quart water
1 carrot
1 stick of celery
1 small onion

Put the fowl and vegetables into a stew-pan, adding the bones or carcase of another fowl if possible. Cover with cold water, or weak clear stock. Let it boil up slowly and simmer for three hours. Skim. Pass the stock through a napkin, and set aside to cool.

Veal Stock

1 lb. knuckle of veal
Chicken bones or carcases
1 quart of water
Vegetables
1 blade of mace
1 clove

Cut up the veal. Break the bones. Add vegetables and spice. Cover with the water. Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain.

Economical Stock for thick Soups, Purées, etc.

An excellent although not very clear stock can be made from odds and ends of cooked meat and bones. For this purpose there should be an enamelled pot with a lightly fitting lid, and it should practically be kept in use continually.

Spread the bottom of the pot with butter, or marrow. Pack in pieces of meat, bone, gristle, the carcases of birds, two or three vegetables cut up in small pieces, two cloves, and a bouquet of herbs.

Cover the meat, etc., with cold water. Put on the lid. Heat slowly, and when it boils set back to simmer for four or five hours.

In preparing meat for this stock, look it over carefully; reject any piece which is not perfectly good, also all stuffing, skin, smoked or burnt pieces. A little beef fat can always be retained, but mutton fat should not be used as it is rank in flavour. Scrape the meat off the bones, and break the bones in small pieces.

A slice or two of lean ham, the gravy saved from any kind of roast, a little fresh meat finely chopped will greatly improve this stock.

General Remarks on Soups

Utensils and Fire.—The remarks on [pages 1] and [2] concerning the utensils and fire for making stock, apply also to the preparation of soups from stock.

To thicken soups with flour only.—Mix flour or cornflour with a little cold water, milk or stock until perfectly smooth. Add more water or milk. Strain. Pour slowly into the soup, which should be nearly boiling. Let it come to a boil. Continue boiling for ten minutes (stirring all the time), or it will taste of flour. About one table-spoon of flour should be used to thicken each quart of stock.

To thicken soups with butter and flour (roux).—Melt some butter. Skim it till quite clear. Pour it into an earthenware sauce-pan, and add to it its weight in flour. Work with a wooden spoon until perfectly smooth. Stir over a fire for a few minutes. Then put it in a moderate oven. Stir occasionally, and be very particular that it does not colour or burn. It should be left in the oven from thirty to forty-five minutes. This thickening, which is called white roux, is used for white soups. Brown roux for brown soups is made in the same way, but is left in the oven until slightly coloured. It will keep for some time.

When adding roux to soups it is best first to melt it in a small sauce-pan, to thin it with a little hot stock, and then to add it gradually to the soups.

If the roux has not been prepared beforehand, the quantity required can be made in a short time by cooking the flour and butter together in a sauce-pan for five minutes for white roux or longer for brown roux. It should be stirred all the time.

A heaping table-spoon (or more) of roux should be added to every quart of soup to be thickened.

Cornflour and roux.—The advantage of roux over cornflour is that the flour used in preparing the roux having been already cooked, it is not necessary to continue boiling the soups to which it is added, whereas cornflour being raw, the soups thickened by it must be boiled for some little time.

To colour soups.—The colour of soups can be deepened by using caramel colouring, or glaze (see next page) (which will also add to their flavour).

Caramel colouring.—Put half a pound of brown or white sugar in an iron sauce-pan, with a table-spoonful of water. Stir over a very gentle fire until it turns a deep, rich brown colour. Add half a pint of boiling water. Let it simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Allow it to get cold. Put it into bottles and cork. This makes an excellent and tasteless colouring, but it must be carefully made. The rich brown colour comes from slow and gentle cooking. If it is burnt and black it is useless.

Add to the soup a few minutes only before serving.

Glaze.—Glaze is made by boiling down good stock until it is of a very thick and gluey consistency. Put a quart of rich stock into a sauce-pan over a good fire. Leave it uncovered, and boil it until it is reduced to half a pint. Let it cool. Put it in a jar or bottle. Cover closely, and keep in a cool place. This will keep for two or three weeks.

Adding vegetables and meat to soups.—Whenever vegetables or meats have to be passed through a sieve or tammy, it will be found easier to do so if the pulp is kept continually well moistened with stock or milk (according to the soup which is being made).

Wine and catsup.—Wine and catsup should always be added as late as possible, as they lose in flavour by being boiled.

Clear Soups

Brunoise

3 pints strong consommé
1 carrot
1 turnip
1 leek
1 onion
1 stick of celery
1 small tea-cupful freshly cooked peas
” ” ” ” asparagus points
” ” ” ” French beans

Cut the carrot, turnip, leek, onion and celery into small dice-shaped pieces, using the red outer part of the carrot only. Fry them in butter until a light brown. Add them to the consommé, and after it has come to the boil, simmer gently until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Skim from time to time. Season. Add the cooked peas, beans and asparagus points. The beans should be cut into diamond-shaped pieces.

Consommé with poached eggs

6 eggs
1 quart consommé

Break the eggs carefully into boiling water, taking care that they do not run into each other. Cook until firmly set, but not hard. Take them out, put them on a dish, and trim neatly. Put them in a soup tureen and gently pour over them the hot consommé. Finely chopped and cooked vegetables may be added to the consommé.

Croûte au pot

1 quart clear brown stock
¹⁄₄ of a white cabbage
1 carrot
¹⁄₂ a turnip
A little celery
2 thin slices of bread

Cut the celery, carrot and turnip into small equal pieces. Cut up the heart of the cabbage, and cook separately in salted water. Put the vegetables in a sauce-pan. Pour the stock over them. Simmer until tender. Add the cabbage. Season. Simmer for a few minutes. Toast the bread. Cut it into several pieces. Put them in a soup tureen. Pour the vegetables and stock over them. Serve. Grated parmesan can be served with this soup.

Croûte au pot gratinée

1 quart clear brown stock
1 tea-cup of mixed cooked vegetables cut in small pieces
4 small dinner rolls

Take out the crumb from the inside of three or four rolls. Put the crusts in an earthenware sauce-pan, and cover with a little clear brown stock. Let them simmer over a gentle fire until they have absorbed all the stock. Then put them in the oven until they are crisp, being very careful that they do not burn. Place them in a soup tureen with the cooked vegetables. Pour the well-seasoned boiling stock over them.

Game Soup

1 calf’s foot
1 or 2 birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several
1 slice lean ham
2 carrots
1 onion
1 piece of celery
1 sprig parsley
1 bay leaf
Thyme
2 cloves
1 blade of mace
2 quarts of water
1 glass of sherry

Clean and cut up the calf’s foot. Put in a stew-pan with one or two whole birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several, a small piece of lean ham, the vegetables, herbs, etc. Cover with 2 quarts of water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Season. Strain. When cold clarify with white of egg ([p. 4]). Before serving add a glass of sherry, and two dozen small quenelles of game ([p. 105]).

Imperial Soup

1 quart clear consommé

For Custard

1 gill consommé
4 yolks of eggs
Nutmeg
Salt

Beat the yolks in a basin. Add a little salt and nutmeg. Stir in the consommé. Strain through a fine hair sieve into a shallow plain mould. Put it into a pan of boiling water, and steam until it sets. Turn out carefully on to a wet napkin. Cut into fancy or square shapes. Half of the mixture can, if wished, be coloured green with spinach colouring ([p. 104]). Place the custards carefully in a tureen, and pour the hot consommé over them.

Julienne

2 large carrots
1 turnip
1 piece of celery
1 small onion
¹⁄₄ white cabbage
1 lettuce
A little sorrel
1 quart consommé
2 ozs. butter

Cut all the vegetables into thin shreds of equal length (about one inch). Use the red outer part of the carrots only, and the hearts of the lettuce and cabbage. Wash the sorrel and cabbage separately, and set aside. Put two ounces of butter and a salt-spoon of powdered sugar in a sauce-pan, add to it all the vegetables except the cabbage and sorrel. Let them turn a fine yellow, but be careful not to burn. Add the consommé. Bring to the boil. Drain. Season. Set back to simmer until the vegetables are tender. Then add the cabbage and sorrel, a leaf of tarragon and chervil. Simmer another ten minutes and serve.

Macaroni Soup

1 quart stock
¹⁄₂ pint macaroni

Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water half-an-hour. Drain. Pour cold water through the macaroni to prevent its sticking together. Put the sticks on a board and cut it, either very finely to make rings, or in half-inch pieces. Bring stock to the boil. Add the macaroni. Season.

Spring Soup

2 carrots
1 turnip
¹⁄₂ a head of celery
10 small onions
1 tea-cup of cauliflower cut into little branches
Heart of a small white cabbage-lettuce
A small handful of sorrel
A leaf of chervil and of tarragon
¹⁄₄ pint peas
¹⁄₄ pint asparagus points
¹⁄₄ pint croûtons
1 quart consommé

Cut the carrots and turnip into small rounds or olive-shaped pieces. Add them, with the chopped up celery, whole onions and cauliflower, to a quart of consommé or chicken stock. Bring it to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Stamp the sorrel and lettuce into small round pieces. Add them, with a leaf of chervil and of tarragon and a tea-spoon of sugar, to the soup. When all the vegetables are tender add a quarter of a pint of young peas and the same quantity of asparagus heads both freshly cooked. Serve with croûtons (see [p. 103]).

Vermicelli

¹⁄₄ lb. vermicelli
1 quart consommé

Break up the vermicelli in small pieces. Put it in cold water. Bring it to the boil, and boil it for four minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the consommé, which should be very clear, strong and well seasoned. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer until the vermicelli is tender.

Serve with grated parmesan in a separate dish.

Other Clear Soups

Clear soups can also be served with Italian paste, forcemeat balls, quenelles, rice, etc. For recipes for these see [pages 103-108].

Thick Soups

Brown Soup

The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled
1 carrot
1 onion
1 turnip
1 head of celery
¹⁄₂ pint cooked young peas
Brown roux
1 ounce of butter
1 tea-spoonful Liebig’s Extract of Meat
1 lump sugar

Boil down the water to one quart. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat carefully. Cut the vegetables into small equal pieces. Fry them a rich brown in one ounce of butter. Put the stock on the fire again. Add the vegetables and sugar. Simmer until they are tender. Add the peas. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Thicken with brown roux (see [p. 12]). Simmer another fifteen minutes. A few minutes before serving add a little caramel colouring (see [p. 13]) and the Liebig’s Extract.

Cream of Pearl Barley

¹⁄₂ lb. pearl barley
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream

Wash the barley thoroughly. Throw it into boiling water and let it boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it to separate the barley. Put the stock in a sauce-pan. Add the barley to it. Simmer for four hours—or until the barley is very tender. Set aside a little of the barley to add whole to the stock. Put the rest through a tammy. Add it to the stock with the whole barley. Season. Scald a gill of cream. Add to the soup.

If preferred the barley may be cooked separately in water.

Cream of Rice

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
1 tea-spoon of butter

Wash the rice and boil it several minutes in water. Drain. Add it to the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Rub through a tammy. Just before serving mix with the soup a gill of cream and a tea-spoonful of butter.

A little whole rice which has been boiled in chicken broth can be added to the soup, or it can be served with a dozen small quenelles of chicken (see [p. 105]).

Giblet Soup

1 set of giblets
1 whole onion
1 chopped onion
Grated rind of the third of a lemon
A few drops of lemon juice
1 oz. butter
1 table-spoon flour
1 glass white wine
Small bouquet of herbs
2 cloves
1 quart of stock

Scald and cut in pieces a set of giblets. Put in a sauce-pan with a quart of good stock, a whole onion stuck with two cloves and the lemon rind. Simmer until the giblets are very tender. Strain off the stock. Make a brown roux of the butter and flour (see [p. 12]). Add it to the stock with the herbs and an onion chopped fine. Boil hard for ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Add a glass of white wine. Season with cayenne, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.

Hare Soup

A large fresh hare
2 onions
1 carrot
2 pieces of celery
Bouquet of herbs
4 cloves
4 pepper-corns
Cayenne
1 glass of port
2 quarts of cold water

Cut a perfectly fresh hare into pieces, being careful to save all the blood. Let the pieces soak in two quarts of cold water in a stew-pan for an hour. Add the blood, and set on the fire. Bring to the boil, stirring and skimming frequently. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices and pepper-corns. Simmer gently for two or three hours. Strain off the liquid. Cut the meat from the bones. Set aside some of the best to be cut into small pieces. Pound the rest in a mortar and put through a tammy (see [p. 60]). Return to the sauce-pan with the stock. When it boils season highly, add a glass of port wine, and the small pieces of hare which have been reserved. Serve. Force-meat balls (see [p. 104]) may be added also.

Left-over Soup

Bones and trimmings of a 6 lb. roast of beef
1 mutton chop
¹⁄₂ lb. fresh gravy beef
2 quarts cold water
2 cloves
2 pepper-corns
1 baked apple
¹⁄₂ cup of cold boiled onions
2 pieces of celery
Bouquet of herbs
1 cup cooked tomato, or 1 cup boiled macaroni

Cut up the meat. Break the bones. Put in a stew-pan with the cold water, vegetables, spices and apple. Bring to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain. Set aside to cool. Remove fat. When required heat to boiling point. Season. Add the tomato or macaroni.

Mock-Turtle

1 calf’s head
1 old fowl (partly roasted)
1 knuckle of veal
3 slices raw ham
2 quarts of stock
Carrots, celery, green onions
¹⁄₂ lb. mushrooms
4 shallots
A large bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, sweet basil and marjoram
8 cloves
2 blades of mace
¹⁄₂ pint sherry
Tea-spoonful lemon juice
White roux

Scald a calf’s head. Bone it. (Do this by making a sharp incision down to the bone from the back of the head to the nose and peeling back the flesh on each side with a knife.) Put the head in a sauce-pan. Cover it with cold water. Boil it for quarter of an hour, skimming from time to time. Then take it out and put it in a basin full of cold water.

Butter the bottom of a large stock-pot. Put in it an old fowl partly roasted (of which the breast is kept back for forcemeat balls), a knuckle of veal, the ham, and two quarts of good stock. Boil quickly until the stock is reduced to one pint. Set back to simmer gently for half-an-hour. Fill up the stock-pot with water.

Take the head out of the water. Pare away any rough parts in the mouth. Put in the stock-pot. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Add the vegetables, spices and bouquet. Simmer gently until the head is tender. Remove the head. Strain the broth. When the meat is cool cut it up into small squares (reserving a little for forcemeat balls).

Thicken the stock with light-coloured roux ([p. 12]). Let it boil up. Skim off the butter that comes to the surface. Add half a pint of sherry. Season with cayenne. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and the pieces of calf’s head. Boil ten minutes. Add two or three dozen forcemeat balls (see [p. 104]).

Mulligatawny

2 chickens (or 2 rabbits)
2 quarts veal stock
2 carrots
4 onions
1 head of celery and
2 pieces of celery
A bouquet of herbs and parsley
2 table-spoons flour
1 table-spoon curry powder
1 ” ” paste
¹⁄₂ lb. Patna rice
¹⁄₄ lb. butter

Cut up the chickens or rabbits into small pieces. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of good veal stock and a carrot, turnip, apple, parsley, and a bouquet of herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer gently until the meat is tender, stirring from time to time. Strain off the stock. Cut the meat from the bones, and set aside to cool.

Fry three onions, a carrot, and a head of celery (all finely sliced) very slowly in a quarter of a pound of butter until they are a rich golden brown. Add two table-spoons of flour. Stir in till smooth. Add a table-spoon of curry powder, and the same quantity of curry paste. Season with cayenne and salt. Add the vegetables to the stock, and add more veal stock if required. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer half-an-hour very gently. Put through a tammy. Pour over the meat of the chickens or rabbits (which should be cut into neat pieces). Heat gently, and simmer for another ten minutes. If desired half a pint of scalded cream can be added just before serving. Serve with plain boiled Patna rice (see [p. 106]).

Ox-tail Soup

1 ox tail
2 quarts water or stock
1 onion
2 carrots
2 ozs. butter
1 head of celery
2 cloves
2 pepper-corns
Blade of mace
A lump of sugar
¹⁄₂ a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables

Wash the ox tail and cut it up into joints. Lay these in cold water for two hours. Slice finely a large onion and two carrots. Melt two ounces of butter in a sauce-pan and fry the onion and carrots in it. When they are slightly browned add the ox tail. Brown it a little. Put the vegetables and ox tail in a stock-pot. Add the celery finely cut up. Cover with two quarts of water or beef stock. Add the spice and seasoning. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Simmer until the meat separates from the bone and the gristle is quite soft. Strain through a napkin.

Cut the best of the meat into pieces. Put them into a stew-pan. Add the strained stock, half a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables cut in small rounds, or olive-shaped, a lump of sugar and more pepper if required. Heat and simmer until vegetables are tender.

The vegetables should be shaped with a vegetable cutter, and are best parboiled in a little stock.

Ox-tail soup may be thickened by a purée of carrots, turnips, peas or lentils. The purée is made by boiling whichever vegetable is required until very tender, and pressing it through a sieve or tammy. Add it to the strained stock and mix well.

Venison Soup

1¹⁄₂ lbs. venison
¹⁄₂ lb. salt pork or raw ham
1 onion
¹⁄₂ a head of celery
1 blade of mace
6 pepper-corns
Brown roux
1 table-spoon Worcester sauce
1 ” Mushroom ketchup
1 glass Madeira or brown sherry

Cut up the meat and vegetables. Put them in a stew-pan. Add just enough water to cover them. Stew them slowly, with the lid on, for an hour. Add nearly a quart of boiling water, the mace and pepper-corns. Simmer for two hours. Strain. Season. Thicken with brown roux (one table-spoon butter, one table-spoon flour, see [p. 12]). Add the Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup, and wine.

Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock

Artichoke Soup

4 artichokes
2 ozs. butter
1 quart white stock
1 cup cream or milk
1 tea-spoon sugar

Wash and peel the artichokes. Cut them in slices. Put the butter in a sauce-pan. Melt it. Add the artichokes. Allow them to simmer until tender, but be careful not to let them brown. Add the boiling stock and a tea-spoon of sugar. Simmer for half-an-hour. Rub through a tammy. Heat again. Season. At the last minute add a cup of boiling cream or milk.

Asparagus Soup

1 lb. veal
1 quart water
1 large bundle of asparagus
1 table-spoon flour
1 gill of cream

Cut off the stalks of the asparagus. Put them in a stew-pan with the veal (which should be cut up) and water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain off the broth. Add the asparagus heads. Season. Boil for twenty minutes. Thicken with a table-spoon of cornflour rubbed smooth in a gill of cream. Boil for ten minutes. Serve with croûtons (see [p. 103]).

Cauliflower Soup

1 quart white stock
1 table-spoon chopped onion
1 pint milk or cream
1 boiled cauliflower

Boil the milk or cream with the onion. Heat the stock. Rub half of the cauliflower through a sieve. Add it to the stock. Add the boiling milk (which has been strained off the onions). Season. Add table-spoonful butter in small pieces, and the rest of the cauliflower cut in small branches.

If wished the soup can be slightly thickened with a table-spoon of white roux. (See [p. 12]).

Celery Soup

1 quart white stock
4 heads of celery
2 table-spoons white roux
1 gill cream

Put three heads of celery into the stock, and boil until very tender. Strain off the soup, and return to the sauce-pan. Add the fourth head of celery finely cut. Simmer till tender. Thicken with the white roux. Scald a gill of cream and add to the soup. Season and serve.

Chestnut Soup

2 lbs. chestnuts
1 pint consommé
1 pint cream

Boil the chestnuts until tender. Remove shells and peel them whole. Save ten whole, rub all the rest through a fine sieve.

Heat the consommé. Scald the cream. Mix together. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chestnuts. Stir until well mixed, but do not allow the soup to boil. Just before serving cut up the ten chestnuts into small pieces and add to the soup.

Green Pea Soup

1 quart water
1 lb. shin of beef
1 quart young green peas
1 table-spoon flour
1 sprig of mint

Wash and boil the empty pea-pods, with a piece of mint, in a quart of salted water for an hour. Skim. Strain off the pods. Add them to the meat (cut in small pieces) in a sauce-pan. Simmer gently for an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the stock. Season. Add the shelled peas to it. Boil gently for twenty minutes. Add the flour mixed smooth with a little of the stock, and the parsley. Boil for ten minutes.

Mushroom Soup

1 lb. fresh small mushrooms
1 pint rich milk or cream
1 pint consommé
1 table-spoon flour
1 table-spoon butter

Set aside twelve mushrooms. Cut them in half. Cook separately. Chop the rest into small pieces and fry in the butter, adding a table-spoonful of flour and mixing until perfectly smooth. Put in a stew-pan and add the scalded milk or cream, and the boiling consommé. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Season. Rub through a sieve. Strain through muslin. Heat again very gently. Add the cooked mushrooms, and do not allow it to boil.

Polish Soup

1 beet-root
2 onions
1 quart brown stock
1 glass red wine
1 cup thick cream

Cut up the beet-root and onions in small pieces. Put them in a sauce-pan, and pour over them the stock, which should be very rich and of a good dark colour. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Put back on the fire, add the wine. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Heat well, but do not allow it to boil. Just before serving add the cream, which should be scalded. Or the cream may be served separately, in which case it should be cold.

Tomato Soup

1 quart of stock
1 tea-spoonful sugar
¹⁄₂ a tin of tomatoes
1 onion
1 tea-spoonful butter

Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the tomatoes. Heat them in a sauce-pan, and allow them to simmer for fifteen minutes. Rub through a sieve. Put to the stock. Season and add a lump of sugar. Heat. Serve with croûtons.

Vegetable Soups made without Stock

Artichoke Soup

4 artichokes
1 pint water
1 pint milk
1 onion

Boil the artichokes in a pint of water. Mash them. Press them through a sieve, and mix them again with the water in which they were boiled.

Boil an onion in the milk. Remove the onion. Add the milk to the artichokes. Bring to the boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see [p. 103]).

Carrot Soup

3 large carrots
1 onion
1 quart cold water
2 ozs. of butter
¹⁄₂ a pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon flour
1 tea-spoon powdered sugar

Scrape the carrots and slice them finely, rejecting the hard yellow inside. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Simmer gently for three quarters of an hour. Slice the onion, and fry it a light brown in the butter. Add it to the carrots, and put all through a fine sieve. Put the purée into a sauce-pan with the water in which the carrots were cooked. Thicken with the flour. Stir continually. Allow it to boil for five minutes. Season. Add a tea-spoonful powdered sugar. Just before serving add half a pint of scalded milk or cream.

Celery Cream

1 head celery
1 pint water
1 pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon chopped onion
2 table-spoons white roux

Wash the celery. Cut it into small pieces. Throw it into one pint boiling salted water. Boil till very tender. Put through a sieve, and return to the water in which it was cooked. Boil the milk with the onion. Strain. Add the milk to the celery. Bring to the boil again. Stir in the white roux ([p. 12]). Season. Boil five minutes. Strain into soup tureen.

Mock Bisque

¹⁄₂ tin of tomatoes
1 quart milk
2 ozs. butter
1 table-spoon white roux
¹⁄₂ salt-spoon carbonate of soda

Stew the tomatoes until very soft. Add the carbonate of soda and sugar. Put through a fine sieve. Set in a small sauce-pan on the fire to keep hot. Heat the milk, thicken it with white roux (flour and butter, see [p. 12]). Let it boil a few minutes, stirring continually. Season. Add the tomatoes and serve immediately. (The tomatoes should not be added until actually ready to serve.)

Portuguese Soup

3 tomatoes
1 Spanish onion
A small bunch of herbs
2 large slices of stale bread
1 oz. grated cheese (parmesan)
1 quart hot water
1 oz. butter

Cut up the tomatoes and onions. Fry a light brown in butter. Put them in a stew-pan and cover with a quart of hot water. Let it boil, and then stand aside to simmer for half-an-hour. Strain off the liquid. Rub the vegetables through a coarse sieve. Return to the fire, season, and make very hot. Break up the bread and put it in the bottom of a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a little of the grated cheese upon it. Pour the soup over it. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the soup.

Potato Cream

1 pint milk
1 gill cream
2 potatoes
1 onion
1 tea-cup cooked French beans
1 dessert-spoonful chopped cooked carrot
1 tea-spoon Liebig’s extract
1 small table-spoon white roux

Boil the potatoes and onion. Put them through a sieve. Add them to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the white roux (see [p. 12]), the Liebig (diluted with a little water) and seasoning. Stir for a minute or two. Cut the French beans into small pieces. Add them and the very finely chopped carrot to the soup. Stir in the scalded cream.

Potato Soup

3 potatoes
1 quart milk
1 table-spoon chopped onion
A little celery or ¹⁄₂ a tea-spoon celery salt
1 table-spoon white roux
1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Peel the potatoes. Soak them in cold water for half-an-hour. Cook them in boiling water until soft. Drain off the water. Put the potatoes through a sieve. Boil the milk with the onion and celery (or celery salt). Strain. Add to the potatoes. Stir in the white roux (see [p. 12]). Season. Boil for five minutes. Add the parsley.

Sorrel Soup

1 handful of sorrel
1 pint of water
1 tea-cup cream or milk
Bread

Wash and prepare a handful of sorrel. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter and a pint of water. Season. Boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Add a little cream or milk. Put several very thin slices of bread in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.

Rice or tapioca can be added to the soup.

Summer Soup

1 cucumber
2 cabbage lettuces
1 onion
Small handful of spinach
A piece of mint
A pint of shelled peas
2 ozs. butter
A slice of ham

Wash the lettuces and cut them up. Cut up the cucumber and onion. Put them with half a pint of peas, the mint, ham and butter into a stew-pan. Cover with a little more than a quart of cold water. Bring to a boil, and then simmer gently for three hours. Strain off the liquid. Pass the vegetables through a sieve. Add to the liquid. Set on the fire again. Season. Add half a pint of green peas which have already been boiled.

Tomato Soup

1 tin of tomatoes
1 pint boiling water
1 table-spoon sugar
4 cloves
2 pepper-corns
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour
1 ” chopped onion
1 ” ” parsley

Put the tomatoes, water, sugar, cloves and pepper-corns in a porcelain-lined sauce-pot. Simmer for half-an-hour. Fry the onions and parsley in the butter, being careful not to burn. Add the flour to them, mix smooth. Add them to the tomatoes. Simmer for ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Season. Serve with rice (see [p. 106]) or croûtons (see [p. 103]).

Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg

In thickening soups with a liaison of cream (or milk) and yolk of egg, the eggs must first be well beaten, then the cream should be added to them and thoroughly mixed. When this is done take a tea-cup of hot stock and mix it slowly with the liaison. Strain it all through a fine sieve or muslin, and add gradually to the soup, which must on no account be allowed to boil after the liaison is added, although it should be stirred over a gentle fire until it thickens.

In thickening soup with eggs only, beat the required number of eggs, add a little warm stock to them. Strain, and add gradually to the soup.

Brown Bread Soup

1 quart stock
4 or 5 small slices of brown bread
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 carrot
4 table-spoons glaze
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill sour cream

Toast the brown bread. Add it with the sliced celery and carrot to a rich stock from which all the fat has not been removed. Bring to a boil. Simmer for an hour. Add four table-spoons glaze. Put all through a sieve. Heat gently. Add the liaison of eggs and cream. Serve with croûtons made of brown bread (see [p. 103]).

This soup can be made with German black bread.

Cauliflower Cream

1 quart chicken stock
1 cup cooked cauliflower
2 yolks of eggs
¹⁄₂ pint cream
1 cup button mushrooms

Put the cauliflower through a fine sieve. Add it to the boiling stock. Season. Add the liaison of cream and egg.

Place the cooked mushrooms at the bottom of a soup tureen. Pour the soup over them.

Cream of Rice with Parmesan

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice
1 quart chicken stock
1 gill cream
¹⁄₂ oz. Parmesan
2 yolks of eggs

Wash the rice. Boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain. Add to the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Put through a fine sieve. Add to the stock. Mix in the cheese. Add the liaison of cream and eggs (see [p. 50]).

Quenelles of chicken (see [p. 105]) can be added if desired, or rice balls (see [p. 107]).

Cucumber Soup

1 cucumber
1¹⁄₂ pints white stock
1 oz. butter
1 onion
Small handful of sorrel
A little chervil
1 gill of cream
2 eggs

Cut the cucumber into thin slices. Sprinkle salt over them. Leave them for an hour. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter, the onion, chervil and sorrel finely minced. Add the stock. Season. Simmer for twenty minutes. Add the liaison of cream and eggs and serve.

Dutch Soup

2 carrots
2 turnips
1 cucumber
1 quart chicken or veal broth
Yolks of 3 eggs
1 gill of cream
Tea-spoonful butter
1 gill cooked French beans
1 gill cooked young peas

Cut the carrots, turnips and cucumber into olive-shaped pieces. Blanch for three minutes in boiling water. Add to the stock, and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Take off the fire. Season. Add the yolks and cream and butter (in small pieces). Stir over the fire until the soup thickens.

Put the freshly cooked peas and beans (cut into dice) into the soup tureen. Pour the soup over them.

Flemish Soup

1 quart veal stock
1 handful spinach and sorrel
¹⁄₂ pint cream
3 yolks of eggs

Boil the chopped spinach and sorrel in the stock until tender. Season. Just before serving add the liaison of eggs and cream. Stir continually until it thickens. Serve with croûtons ([p. 103]).

Friar’s Chicken

1 quart veal stock
1 chicken
3 yolks of eggs
1 pint cream or milk
2 table-spoons chopped parsley

Cut the chicken into joints. Scald and skin them. Add them to the stock. Season. Bring to the boil. Simmer gently for an hour. Skim from time to time. Strain. Add the liaison of egg and cream, and the parsley.

Italian Macaroni Soup—I

5 ozs. macaroni
2 ozs. butter
1 quart white stock
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
3 yolks of eggs
1 oz. grated Parmesan

Cut the macaroni in boiling water, adding butter, salt and pepper. Boil for half-an-hour. Drain. Cut in half-inch lengths.

Heat the white stock. Add the macaroni to it. Simmer another half-hour. Add liaison of eggs and cream (or milk) and the grated cheese.

Macaroni Soup—II

¹⁄₂ lb. macaroni
A little more than 1 quart chicken stock
About 30 forcemeat balls
4 yolks of eggs
1 gill of cream

Boil the macaroni for ten minutes in cold water. Drain it. Cut it in finger-lengths. Cook it again for fifteen minutes in a little clear chicken stock. In a hot dish lay first a layer of macaroni, then one of small chicken forcemeat balls (see [p. 104]), then another layer of macaroni, etc.

Heat a quart of clear chicken stock to boiling point. Add a liaison of the yolks of four eggs and a gill of cream. Strain. Serve in a soup tureen with the dish of macaroni and forcemeat balls.

Russian Soup

2 kidneys
2 small onions
¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms
1 dozen small olives
3 gherkins
1 quart strong stock
Yolks of two eggs

Melt the butter and fry the kidneys and onions (finely cut up) in it very gently for five minutes. Cook the mushrooms separately. Put the kidneys, onions, mushrooms, olives and gherkins (finely sliced) in a hot soup tureen. Pour over them a quart of rich, dark, well-seasoned brown stock, which has been thickened with the yolks of two eggs.

Turkish Soup

1 quart of veal or beef stock
¹⁄₂ a tea-cup of rice
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon cream

Boil the rice and stock together until the rice is tender. Press through a sieve. Season. Add the yolks and cream. Serve with croûtons.

Water-cress Soup

3 potatoes
1 handful chopped water-cress
1 quart stock (or water)
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon cream
1 oz. butter
1 tea-spoon white roux

Peel and wash the potatoes. Cook them in a little stock. When tender mash them and put through a sieve. Add them to the rest of the stock. Put back on the fire. Heat gently. Add a tea-spoonful of white roux (see [p. 12]). Add the butter in small pieces.

Make a liaison of the eggs and cream. Stir into the soup. Add the water-cress uncooked. Serve at once, before the water-cress becomes limp.

White Chicken Soup

The water in which a fowl has been boiled
The carcase and bones of the fowl
1 pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon chopped onion
2 table-spoons ” celery
Yolks of two eggs
1 gill chopped and cooked carrot and green peas

Add the bones and carcase of the fowl, the onion, celery and seasoning to the water in which a fowl has been boiled. Simmer till reduced to one quart. Strain and thicken with a white roux of butter and flour. Add the liaison of cream (or milk) and eggs.

Put the cooked carrot and peas in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.

White Veal Soup

2 lbs. knuckle of veal
1 quart water
1 onion
Half pint of milk or cream
2 yolks of eggs
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour

Wipe the veal and cut it into small pieces. Cover with cold water and heat slowly, skimming constantly. Season with salt, three or four pepper-corns, and a chopped onion. Simmer for three hours until reduced by half. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Put in the stew-pan again, and when boiling thicken with white roux made of table-spoon butter and a level table-spoon of flour (see [p. 12]). Add a half pint of milk and eggs. Season again. Serve with fried bread.

Vegetable Purées

When passing vegetables or meat through a tammy or fine sieve, it will be easier if they are kept continually moistened with a little of the stock or milk with which the purée is to be made.

Purées having been passed through the sieve or tammy, can, if not required at once, be set aside until wanted. But a purée that has reached this point must on no account be re-heated or have milk or cream added to it until just before it is to be served. When re-heating, if a meat purée, it should not be allowed to boil, or even be made hotter than is absolutely necessary.

Allow all vegetable purées to boil up quickly for several minutes after the purée and stock have been mixed. This will clarify them. All scum should be carefully removed. When this is done, the butter and milk or cream can be added.

A little white or brown roux well mixed with purées a minute or two before serving will prevent the actual purée from separating from the stock.

Purée of Asparagus

1 bundle of asparagus
1 handful spinach
1 small onion
1 quart white stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 oz. butter

Break off all that is tender of each piece of asparagus. Scrape and wash them. Leave them in cold water for half-an-hour. Drain them. Put them in a sauce pan with a handful of spinach and a small onion. When tender take all out and drain again. Add to them a quart of white stock. Season. Boil gently for ten minutes. Put through a tammy. Heat slowly again, season and add the butter and scalded cream. This soup may be deepened in colour by adding a little spinach colouring ([p. 104]). Serve with croûtons ([p. 103]).

Purée of Black Beans

¹⁄₂ pint black beaus
1 quart water
1 carrot (grated)
1 onion
¹⁄₂ head celery
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” brown roux
2 ozs. raw ham or salt pork
2 cloves
1 bouquet herbs
1 lemon
2 hard-boiled eggs
1 glass sherry

Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away add cold water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard. Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see [p. 13]). Just before serving add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.

Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen. Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls ([p. 104]) also may be served with this purée.

Purée of Broad Beans

1 pint of beans
1 slice of bacon or salt pork
2 sprigs of parsley
3 small onions and one clove
¹⁄₂ head of celery
1 quart water or stock
¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream
1 table-spoon butter
1 ” flour

Boil the beans, one onion, parsley, celery and clove, in one quart of water or stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve into a basin, and set aside.

Slice and boil two onions until tender. Drain them. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add the onions and a little nutmeg and fry until a good brown, stirring in the flour and mixing it smooth. Add the boiling milk. Boil for several minutes, stirring all the time. Press through a sieve, and add to the purée of beans. Season. Heat gently. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Carrots

2 large carrots
1 ” onion
1 ” turnip
1 quart beef stock