Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated faithfully except as listed [here].

THE
MEMOIRS
OF
CHARLES-LEWIS,
Baron de Pollnitz.

BEING
The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late Travels
from Prussia thro’

In LETTERS to his Friend.
Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE
of the Chief Cities and Towns;
BUT
The CHARACTERS of the Principal Persons
at the several COURTS.
In TWO VOLUMES.
Vol. II.
The Second Edition, with Additions.
LONDON:
Printed for Daniel Browne, at the Black-Swan,
without Temple-Bar.
M.dcc.xxxix.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

LETTER XXVIII[1]
LETTER XXIX[24]
LETTER XXX[46]
LETTER XXXI[55]
LETTER XXXII[77]
LETTER XXXIII[95]
LETTER XXXIV[113]
LETTER XXXV[129]
LETTER XXXVI[151]
LETTER XXXVII[168]
LETTER XXXVIII[179]
LETTER XXXIX[189]
LETTER XL[203]
LETTER XLI[228]
LETTER XLII[261]
LETTER XLIII[277]
LETTER XLIV[290]
LETTER XLV[310]
LETTER XLVI[325]
LETTER XLVII[337]
LETTER XLVIII[348]
LETTER XLIX[357]
LETTER L[364]
LETTER LI[384]
LETTER LII[394]
LETTER LIII[430]
LETTER LIV[449]
INDEX[473]
[FOOTNOTES]

MEMOIRS OF THE Baron de Pollnitz.
In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. L. C. D. S.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,Rome, July 30, 1730.

Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of Rome, that City which has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of Europe: But don’t expect I should give you a perfect Description of it, because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am. I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the Ostentation of the Italians cries up for the Wonders of the World. I shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well

described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a Repetition of what you have read a thousand times over.

Rome is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now That Rome of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one’s first Entrance thro’ the Gate del Popoli, a Foreigner cannot but be struck with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you. When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv’d a Square of a triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate del Popoli, through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point, in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches, the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the middle of the Square there’s a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised by Pope Sixtus V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there’s a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be worthy of Rome: What follows appear’d to me to have the Air of a Village. The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The Right-hand of the

Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched Hovels.

From the Square del Popoli, I shall run through the three Streets which lead from thence to the chief Quarters of Rome. I shall begin with that in the Middle, which fronts the Gate. ’Tis called the Street del Corso, because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the Barbary Horses run Races, and where there is the Pasciggio, or Ring, frequented every Day by the Coaches. This Street runs thro’ almost all Rome, and has some fine Houses in it, particularly the Palaces Ruspoli, Gicci, Carolis, Mancini, Pamphili, and Bolognetti. It crosses the Squares of St. Mark and Colonna. The first is a Quadrangle, encompassed with good substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous Antonine Pillar, which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of Antoninus the Pious, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given place to the Effigies of St. Paul. St. Mark’s Square is so called, because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In it stands the Palace of Venice, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by the Ambassador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope Sixtus V.

The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square del Popoli, is called la Strada Ripetta. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs leading down to the Tiber, which are of a grand Design, and so contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of Rome.

The third Street, which ends in the Square of Spain, has also nothing in it worth seeing. To hear a Roman speak of the Square of Spain, one would

think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that less deserves that Character. ’Tis much narrower in the Middle than at both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of Spain, which is occupied by the Cardinal Bentivoglio[1], the Ambassador of that Crown, and the Palace de Propaganda, it has not one handsome House. In the Middle of it there’s a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious Stair-case, which leads to the Church of Trinity on the Mountain, belonging to the French Minims. ’Twas made during the Pontificate of Pope Innocent XIII. of the Family of Conti, out of the Money which a rich Frenchman left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say, that no less than 60,000 Roman Crowns were expended in it; which, if true, ’twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste perfectly Gothic, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old Romans were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.

The Square of Spain, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the Place of Rendezvous for all the Beau Monde in the City. Here the Ladies, sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in Rome, mixed with Clouds of Dust; and one

is not only pester’d with Beggars, but every Minute in Danger of being crush’d to pieces between the Coaches, which press forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount Trinity. There I have the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of Spain; I extend my View over all Rome, and even into the Country beyond it, and there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the Wheel. ’Tis true, that I see none except Abbés and Prelates; but they are not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of the Ladies Coaches.

Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of Spain, and the seven Streets which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the Spanish Ambassador, whither the Sbirri dare not pursue a Criminal, or to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by Bravo’s, who, like the Swiss of the Spanish Minister, are very jealous of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he: This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an Opportunity of finding Refuge; but ’tis a rare Income for the Bravo’s and their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.

The Square of Spain leads me to give you some Account of the Square Navona, which, tho’ by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the Length of it, may be numbered among the

finest Squares in the World. ’Tis adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order of Pope Innocent X. of the Family of Pamphili, according to a Model by Signior Lorenzo Bernini, who has made a shining Display of his Art in this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in it, and on the Top there’s an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate, which was formerly in the Circus of the Emperor Antoninus Caracalla. At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble, sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four principal Rivers of the World, the Ganges, the Nile, the Danube, and Rio de la Plata, in the West-Indies. These four Statues, tho’ made by different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous Michael Angelo Buonarota.

Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. Agnes, begun by Innocent X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes Pamphili. ’Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in Rome. The Inside is an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace, belonging to Prince Pamphili, who lets it out to the Cardinal Corsini[2]. There’s a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in Painting.

The Pantheon, commonly called the Church de la Rotonda, because of its round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient Rome, which has been well preserved. Agrippa caused this Temple to be built, with an Intention to dedicate it to Augustus his Father-in-Law; but he afterwards devoted it to Jupiter Ultor, or the Avenger. Pope Boniface I. or, as others say, Boniface IV. consecrated this Temple to the True God, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with the Title of Sta. Maria ad Martyres. Nothing is more Majestic than the Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circumference, all of a Piece, and of the Corinthian Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome. The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was heretofore covered with Brass, but Urban VIII. stripped the Church of that magnificent Covering, and employ’d the Brass partly on the High Altar of St. Peter’s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. Angelo. The Pope who did this, being of the Barberini Family, gave Occasion to the Romans, who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that the Barberini had done even more than the Barbarians; and really, it is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of Rome the Rotonda was always spared.

St. Peter’s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pass it by in Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that though there were no other Building in Rome but this

Church, it would be worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which lies before this superb Pile, can’t but be admired by all that see it. Pope Alexander VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero in Architecture, Signior Lorenzo Bernini. The Form of this Area is round, and encompassed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars, which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope Sixtus V. who may justly be reckoned the Restorer of Rome, on account of the Ornaments with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after ’twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. Peter’s Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior Fontana, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense a Weight was raised to that Height. ’Tis said, that Pope Sixtus V. commanded that every Man who assisted in raising this Obelisk should keep Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the Workmens’ Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders of the Architect; and as they knew that Sixtus would be obeyed, not a Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so confounded

Fontana, that he knew not what to do, when one of the Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the Ropes. Fontana followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no body cared to trust Sixtus; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd, and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk, including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. Sixtus V. caus’d some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Brass at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person that shou’d salute it, and at the same Time repeat three Pater-nosters, and as many Ave Maries.

When you have passed over the great Square, there’s an Ascent of some Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the Corinthian Order, adorned with Basso Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the Mosaic Taste, which form the Arms of Paul V. of the Borghese Family; the whole gilt all over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of Constantine the Great, carved in Marble by Bernini, who has represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the Portico, is Charlemaign’s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by Augustin Cornicchini, a Native of Peschia in Tuscany; but ’tis not near so bold a Figure as that carved by Bernini. At the Entrance of the Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.

I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. Peter’s did not strike me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and Azure, but I was mistaken; tho’, after having examined Things closely, I was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Brass, of an immense Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar none can celebrate Mass but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by his Holiness’s express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul. There’s a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and surrounded by a Balustrade of Brass, supporting a great many Silver Lamps, which never cease to burn, except on Good-friday, when the Church is hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.

At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. Peter’s Chair, a very fine Piece of Work, all of Brass, gilt, and supported by the four Fathers of the Church, St. Ambrose, St. Jerome, St. Augustine, and St. Gregory, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Brass, gilt, over them, raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of which there are stately Tombs of Brass and Marble, of incomparable Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of Urban VIII. on the Right Hand, has two admirable Statues of white

Marble, representing two Virtues, of such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain Spaniard gave, in whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Passion. These two Tombs are not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess Matilda, and that of Christina Queen of Sweden, to whom the Popes granted Burial in St. Peter’s Church, where, except the Successors of that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the Head of her Army, against the Emperor Henry IV. the other even abdicated her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the Roman Religion. Christina’s Tomb is nobly designed, without being overcharged with Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Brass, which is perfectly well executed.

Tho’ every thing in St. Peter’s Church is worthy of the particular Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than the noble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated, than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpasses any thing that was ever done by the Ancients. ’Tis but a few Years that the Artists have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta. Petronilla, St. Peter’s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One would swear ’twas a Picture behind a Glass; yet it consists only of little Glass Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is extremely astringent.

’Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried on apace, be ever finished, St. Peter’s Church will be possessed of a Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.

The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its Ornaments. ’Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to the Globe, which, ’tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St. Peter’s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross, by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.

All the other Churches of Rome are beautiful Piles, and ’tis certain that the least of ’em contains something that will entertain a curious Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention, are, St. Paul’s without Rome, St. John’s de Lateran, St. Mary Major’s, the Churches of Jesus, St. Ignatius, St. Philip de Neri, our Lady’s of Victory, the Church of St. Agnes, and the Noviciate of the Jesuits.

As to the Foundation of St. Mary Major’s Church, there is a Tradition, that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having pray’d to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of God signified

to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at the Place which they would find cover’d next Day with Snow; a Thing the more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of August. But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. Liberius I. who next Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and by John a Patrician, and a Senator of Rome, and found that Spot of Ground where now stands the Church of St. Mary Major, covered with Snow. The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called the Liberian Church, and also the Church of St. Mary of the Manger, because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at last it was called St. Mary Major, because it is the biggest of those Churches in Rome that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.

I have been so long upon Churches, that ’tis high Time to shift the Scene. I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came, referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of Rome to another Opportunity.

The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they have elected Cardinal Corsini. The Cardinals could not determine whom to chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal Imperiali was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal Bentivoglio, the Minister of Spain, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, ’tis the Opinion of many People, that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at

that Time, tho’ he had it at the Election of Pope Conti; because out of personal Pique to Cardinal Imperiali he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to the House of Bourbon, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the Cardinal Bentivoglio thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did, at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal Imperiali that Time, it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill Will was this; Bentivoglio had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested by Order of this very Imperiali, when he was Legate of the Holy See at Ferrara. Cardinal Bentivoglio, who was a proud haughty Man, took this as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as the Italians seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold on this: So that Cardinal Imperiali came short of the Tiara, merely for having done an Act of Justice.

Cardinal Imperiali being thus set aside, Corsini was proposed for Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the Germans, pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. Davia was proposed, and would undoubtedly have been in St. Peter’s Chair, if Cardinal de Bissi, a Frenchman, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he was a Jansenist. ’Tis true, that Cardinal Davia was never a great Friend of the Jesuits, and that M. Bissi is a Man after their own Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the French Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won’t swear. Though, be it as it will, I think, if the Society were convinced that Davia was their Enemy, they did very wisely to

set him aside. During this, Cardinal Corsini, who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and to the Grand Princess Violante, desiring the former to intercede for him directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the Bavarian Family; to the end that Family might do him good Offices at Vienna. His Wishes were accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to consent to the Election of Corsini, and he obtained for Answer, that his Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. Corsini having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain Albano, the Head of the Cardinals, made by Clement XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal Barberini hearing that Corsini was going to be proposed a second time, declared openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal Cienfuegos, who was very earnest for the Election of Colonna, or some other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight to the Cardinal Cienfuegos, and proposed the Choice of Corsini to him; and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and conjured him for God’s sake not to oppose the said Cardinal’s Advancement. ‘You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you end your Days here? ’Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What have you to say against Corsini? He is old, and, according to the Course of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy the Factions

that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can’t be long in his Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.’ The Cardinal Chamberlain water’d his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good Man can weep when he will. This so moved Cienfuegos, who is the best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election of Corsini. But then the French feigned they would not be for him any longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the Germans espousing the Man whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at length they consented, saying, that since the Germans made the Pope, they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated Cardinal Banchieri, who had been Vice-Legat at Avignon, to be Secretary of State. The Cardinal Cienfuegos, who was puffed up with the Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the French in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them. Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the Germans were bubbled in this Affair, and that the French made both the Pope and the Minister. Whether ’twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of Jehosaphat; yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of Italy, we are even more hated there than the French ever were, and ’tis certain that they were hated there with a Vengeance. ’Tis very probable, therefore, that the Italian Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a Pope that

was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day of the new Pope’s Exaltation, all the City of Rome thought the Cardinal Cienfuegos Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.

Cardinal Corsini was proclaimed Pope on Wednesday the 12th of July, in the Morning. He took the Name of Clement XII. in Honour to the Memory of Clement XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the Romans could not get a Roman for their Pope, they are not sorry that he was preferred to his Competitors. He was generous and noble, good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.

In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, Clement XII. received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are here styled the King and Queen of England. After he had conversed a while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope Sixtus, and placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one after the other, and gave them the Pax to kiss. ’Tis only upon that Day and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope’s Foot; for afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over, the Pope was seated in his Chair of Procession, which is a great Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly

embroidered with Gold; and then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry’d him thro’ the great Stair-case to St. Peter’s Church. When they came before the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair, he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar, where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in Sixtus’s Chapel; and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment, where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Ambassadors, the Roman Princes, and of all the Quality of Rome; and in the Evening, there were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. Angelo.

The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the Recommendation of the French, he appointed the Cardinal Banchieri Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, Clement XII. had a long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at Rome about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the Romans seemed to approve of the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive they should have no better Treatment

from the Florentines, than they had from the Beneventines, under the last Pontificate. ‘The Romans,’ said the Pope, ‘are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don’t win the Love of my Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.’ Then turning about to his Nephew the Marquis Neri Corsini, now a Cardinal, whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; ‘I exhort you, Nephew, said he, to behave so as to offend nobody. My Reign cannot be long. My Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not want Friends.’ ’Twas with such Sentiments as these, that Clement XII. ascended the Throne of St. Peter.

The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of July, and I can assure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested in his Pontificalibus, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in Procession to Sixtus’s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and then was carried thro’ the grand Stair-case under St. Peter’s Portico, where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. Peter’s Chapter to kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to the Chapel of St. Gregory the Great, where he made another short Prayer prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed

in a Throne on the Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches, on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a Tercet, they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this, they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope, with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing a plenary Indulgence in articulo mortis. He afterwards descended from his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him, Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi: i. e. Holy Father! so passeth away the Glory of the World. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope’s Heart; for he lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks. When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was

erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of England, with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this, were the principal Ladies of Rome, and the most distinguished Foreigners. I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of Waldeck, who has been here these two Months.

From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops, pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope’s Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Mass, at which the Epistle and Gospel were sung, both in Greek and Latin, by a Greek Bishop and a Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration, returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal assistant Priest carried the consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according to a Custom, thro’ a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal assistant Priest had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the Chalice, the Mass was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his Mitre, and put on his Tiara, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the People

that were crowded in St. Peter’s Square, and the Streets that led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. Angelo were fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play’d off at the Castle of St. Angelo.

Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. Misson, who, in his Account of the Pope’s Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the Ceremonial of Rome, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope’s Throne is covered with precious Stones, tho’ I assure you, that there cannot be a greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. Peter’s Church, indeed, is hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but ’tis the very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. Peter’s Throne, upon this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can’t imagine where Misson could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he has deviated from the Truth.

The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown’d, was Damasus II. in the Year 1048. And Urban V. was the first that used the triple Crown, commonly

called the Tiara; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of Jesus Christ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same Reason, St. Peter was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the Palace of the Vatican) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.

Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the Vatican, and took up his Residence in the Palace of Monte Cavallo. The Holy Father marched out with a Pomp which pleased the Romans, who are naturally fond of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the Roman Nobility on Horseback, his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy, as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the Romans, when they saw Clement XII. remember’d that he was a Florentine; and there needed nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, &c.

LETTER XXIX.

SIR,Rome, Sept. 10, 1730.

In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of Rome, as briefly as I traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know, that the Buildings which we Ultramontains think much to call Hotels, are here styled Palaces.

I think, that the Pope’s two Palaces called the Vatican and Monte-Cavallo deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first, for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most healthful Air in the City.

The Vatican is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high, and so close to St. Peter’s Church, that it takes off a great deal of its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don’t see any thing to be admired in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been employed in it; but as to the Inside, ’tis quite otherwise; for one cannot help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of Italy seem to have strove to display the utmost of their Art: Raphael especially has done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History of Attila, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.

Sixtus’s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment, by Michael Angelo Buonorato, who, ’tis said, represented all the Persons of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that ’twas impossible to mistake them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick of Pope Sixtus IV. then in St. Peter’s Chair, finding himself among the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since ’twas his Misfortune to be in such Company, there he must stay.

The Vatican Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in the World. ’Tis full of MSS. in the Hebrew, Arabic, Greek, Latin, and other Languages. Pope Sixtus V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the Heidelberg Library, and that of Christina Queen of Sweden. The former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of Frederic the Elector Palatine, King of Bohemia, when Heidelberg submitted to the Power of the House of Austria. The latter was purchased by the Pope from that Queen’s Heirs. The Building which contains this Library is worthy of the great Sixtus V. who caused it to be built from the very Foundation. ’Tis generally divided into two Parts, viz. the Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that are there contained. Sixtus V. caused

the whole Library to be painted, both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers Compartments, the most memorable Actions of Sixtus V. the holding of sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short, ever since Adam, who have been most distinguished in the World for their Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope Sixtus V. and the Doctors of the Church.

The last Pope Benedict XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the Vatican. He thought it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of Belvidero, which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho’ it joins to the Vatican. And as ’twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop, if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit the Neighbourhood of St. Peter; and therefore, on the Backside of the Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built, with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.

I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here, touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St. Peter. Being born at Rome, of the illustrious Family of the Ursini, he entered very young into the Order of St. Dominic, and was made

a Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope Clement X. of the Altieri Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at Benevento, of which he was Archbishop. ’Twas there that he heard of the Death of his Predecessor Innocent XIII. of the Family of Conti. When he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so that he was fain to borrow of Fini, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal, the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave at Rome. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed at placing the Tiara upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal Ursini, they should give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State; however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal Ursini, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be Pope; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred College. One Coscia, a Neapolitan Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the State, and made him Archbishop of Benevento.

This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body groan’d;

but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. Coscia confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. They will accuse me of every thing that is ill, said he to the Holy Father, but God is my Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too strict. I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his Good-nature, that he wept too.

I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which however is firmly believed by all the People of Rome. Certain Cardinals represented to the Pope one Day, that Coscia was not only guilty of innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he would inquire into the Matter, and punish Coscia, if what they alledged was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but Coscia easily brought himself off. He said, ’twas all Calumny; swore with Tears in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But Coscia, fearing lest the Pope should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty Valet de Chambre, importing in Substance as follows: ‘Your Holiness being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal Coscia, that you will give Credit

to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, ’tis thought proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o’Clock, the Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to the Cardinal’s Apartment, and peep thro’ the Key-hole.’ The Pope did not fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected, the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty Cardinal in this Posture, cry’d out to somebody that was with him, Do but see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light! Would to God that all the Clergy were like him. Then entring into the Cardinal’s Chamber, Dear Coscia, said he, embracing him, They have accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the Injury I have done you. He afterwards joined with Coscia in reading the Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of Hypocrites. But, to the Pope’s Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal Coscia was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him being Beneventines, and as cunning as Coscia, whose Creatures they were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal Buoncompagno say, That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the Hands of the Turks.

This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold all the Presents he received. He could never

understand how a Piece of Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from the Emperor of China, to his unworthy Beneventines, one of them offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred. Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, ‘I am sorry I can’t let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but here’s one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not wrong them.’ Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope. They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at their own Price, they sold afterwards in Rome, and shared the Profit.

At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of Rome having complained to him that Pharao and Basset proved the Ruin of a great many People, he answered him smartly, Alas! are not you the Governor? Send the Gamesters to the Gallies. He never loved to talk of State Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put them back, tho’ perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long expired.

This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst of Rome, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry, would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as ’twas possible for any mean Priest, and perhaps

too humble for his Character. He went out every Day in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, viz. the Dominican, to the Rules of which he always adher’d, and without any Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his Swiss Guards. If he happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So much is enough for Benedict XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now return to the Vatican.

This Palace joins to the Castle of St. Angelo, which is the Citadel of Rome, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent Romans, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but, Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are the Masters. The Castle of St. Angelo is for Prisoners of State, and in it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are also kept the four Millions of Roman Crowns, which Pope Sixtus V. deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St. Gregory the Great, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard, to denote that God had stay’d the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of St. Gregory, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of Rome, carried in Procession to St. Peter’s Church two Images of the Virgin, the one painted by St. Luke, and kept in the Church of St. Mary Major, the other, which appeared to St. Galle, and is worshipped in the Church of St. Mary in Compitello.

From the Castle of St. Angelo you will please to follow me to the Palace of Monte Cavallo, which is travelling from one End of Rome to the other. Gregory XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes have carried it on. ’Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed is well lodged. Paul V. of the Borghese Family, who, next to Sixtus V. was the Pope that has most embellished Rome, has also most of all contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of Monte Cavallo. Here are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle, encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main Building there’s a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant Jesus in her Arms, as designed by Charles Maratti, which is an admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they are not near so magnificent as those of the Vatican. The Furniture of this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope’s Apartments there’s one of the most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all Rome, and very far into the Country. The Air of Monte Cavallo is said to be the best in Rome, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to

reside here rather than at the Vatican. The Gardens belonging to it are very much admir’d by the Italians, who never travell’d out of their Country, where Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us Ultramontains, who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this Country with very great Indifference.

The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a Traveller’s Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of Gregory XIII. The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn’d on both Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are plac’d, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing Castor and Pollux, when they came Express to Rome with the News of the Victory gain’d over the Tarquins. In the Midst of the Area, which is form’d by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc’d Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there’s an Equestrian Statue in Brass, of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, which is the most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the Kind. They say here, that the Republic of Venice offer’d some Years ago to pay as many Sequins for this Statue as cou’d be put into the Horse’s Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it is at present. ’Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the Direction of Michael Angelo.

In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two others, the Senate of

Rome meets, and there Justice is administer’d. There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there’s a stately Fountain adorn’d with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals, representing the Nile and the Tiber; and in a Niche over it, is the Statue of Roma triumphans, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of excellent Sculpture.

The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings, particularly the Rape of the Sabines; and among the modern Statues, the Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope Urban VIII. done by Bernini; the Colossal Statue of Pope Leo X. in Marble, done by Lorenzetto of Florence; those of Alexander Farnese, Marcus Antoninus, Colonna, Gregory XIII., Paul III. and many others, in short, which I don’t mention, as being of less Value, and which are not much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou’d pass with us for Master-pieces.

Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call’d Campo-vaccino, I cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old Rome, which I cannot behold without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou’d have the same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the ancient Capitol, on the other the Constantine Arch erected with so much Expence by the Senate and People of Rome, broken and half-bury’d; beyond that, the Arch of Titus, in a Condition still worse; on

your Left, the immense Ruins of the Temple of Peace; the Vestigies of the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, on the Architrave of which is this vain Inscription, Divo Antonino, Divæ Faustinæ; on your Right-hand the melancholy Ruins of the Temple of Concord, which, to judge of it by the eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator Furius Camillus for having reconcil’d the Plebeians and the Patricians. ’Twas in this Temple, according to Varro, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the Mistress of the Universe, as wou’d put you in mind of the Instability of this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou’d you say, if you shou’d go on till you come to the famous Coliseum, which Time, the Destroyer of all Things, had spar’d, but was destroy’d by Men, and such too as were most concern’d in the Preservation of every thing in Rome that was beautiful? And what wou’d you think, if you saw there was scarce enough remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once? ’Twas Vespasian that caus’d it to be built after the Model which was intended by Augustus. Its Form on the Outside is round, and ’tis built of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for the common People. They say it contain’d eighty-five thousand Spectators. It was dedicated by Titus, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter’d five thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. Paul III. and Urban

VIII. caus’d the Coliseum to be demolish’d, and made use of the Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.

Having entertain’d you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of Rome in general. I don’t deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere; but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so much Notice as is taken of ’em. Methinks, ’tis with the Buildings of Rome, as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish’d, we are apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou’d censure. A great many Palaces are admir’d here, barely from the Prepossession that Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was true enough heretofore, in the Time of a Sixtus V. a Paul V. and an Urban VIII. who had the Embellishment of Rome at Heart; but ’tis not so now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in France than they do in Italy, especially as to the Distribution of the Apartments, of which the Italians have no Notion. Most of the Apartments of Rome consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix’d where they shou’d be; mean time, Canopies are what the Roman Princes and Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are

giving Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not look for such Ornaments here as they have in France, and elsewhere. As to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho’ there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work’d, that the Gilding employ’d on them serves only the more to expose their Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn’d with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some Picture-shop at the Fair of St. Germain. Besides, these Pictures are in such sorry old-fashion’d Frames, that they disparage them. They have but few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou’d be better pleas’d to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I don’t think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a long while in their Graves; and there’s no House furnish’d in the modern Taste, except those of the Cardinals del Giudici, Albano, Bolognetti and Carolis.

’Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here the Farnese Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in Rome; Michael Angelo was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building were taken

out of the Coliseum of the Emperor Vespasian, by Order of Paul III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn’d with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to this Palace is through a great Court, adorn’d within by Doric Pillars; and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by Arches, with great Galleries well cover’d over, where we see the famous Statues of Hercules and Flora, which are really worthy the Observation of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble, all of one Piece, representing the Fable of Dirce, fasten’d to a Bull, by Zethus and Amphion, the Sons of Antiope, Wife of Lycus King of Bœotia, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom Lycus had divorc’d, because she had suffer’d herself to be debauch’d by Jupiter in the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder Lycus, and to tie Dirce by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she was dragg’d about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess, turn’d her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from Rhodes to Rome by Order of the Emperor Antoninus Caracalla, and was found under Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor, from whence Paul III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been plac’d there.

The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn’d with several fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History of Alexander Farnese, when he pass’d the Scheld, who is represented as crown’d by Victory, with Flanders and the Scheld chain’d to his Feet. There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches, and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in Fresco by Salviati and Zucaro. There we see the Emperor Charles V. and Francis I. King of France, shaking each other by the Hand; the memorable Transactions of Paul III. and Martin Luther in Conference with that Pope’s Nuncio. In the next Apartments there are a great many fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout by Annibal Carache, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of Bacchus. In fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of Parma. ’Tis pity that ’tis not finish’d, for in Truth it wou’d be a fine Piece of Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. Peter’s Miracles, which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate, and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don’t live to finish; and ’tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles, either because they don’t care to make a Shew of the Wealth that

was left them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that they are swallow’d up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch’d off on sudden by Winter.

Paul III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the Tyber, behind the Farnese Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden of the little Farnese Palace, which is on the other Side of the River, in the Quarter call’d Longara; and if this Design had been executed, the Duke of Parma wou’d have had a much finer Palace at Rome, than he has in his own Capital.

The Barberini Palace is in no respect inferior to the Farnese, and is larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in Fresco by Peter Cortona, who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection. The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give you all the Particulars, I shou’d never have done. That which very much disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might

easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses which belong to it.

The Palace Pamphili in the Street del Corso will be, as to the Outside, the most magnificent in Rome, when the grand Front, which is now actually carrying up, is finish’d. The Prince Pamphili who is the Owner of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the richest Noblemen in ready Money in Rome. His Brother the Cardinal, who died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand Roman Crowns in Specie. The Prince is a very good Œconomist, has no Children, and being not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife, his Nephew the Duke Carpidetti, who is the last of the Pamphili Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted; and though they have been as often reconcil’d, either by their Kindred, or by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as bad.

’Tis not long ago that the Campagna di Roma was infested by Locusts (which are here call’d Grilli) to such a Degree, that Pope Benedict XIII. curs’d them, and banish’d them to the Sea, in which it is pretended they were all drown’d. This Miracle being talk’d of some Days after in Presence of the Prince Pamphili, he made Answer, that he did not believe it; for, said he, were it so, I shou’d be the most unhappy of Men! But, ‘How is it possible for all the Grilli to be plung’d headlong into the Sea, and the Campagna di Roma to be deliver’d from them, and that I shou’d still keep the Grillo in my House?’ He alluded

hereby to his Wife, who is of the Grillo Family in Genoa.

If the Duke Carpinetti shou’d die without Issue, as ’tis believ’d will be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady who never yet conceiv’d, the immense Estate of the Pamphili Family goes to the Family of the Constable Colonna, and really it will then be in better Hands. You know that the Colonna’s are the gayest People in Rome, and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same Stock as the Royal Family of Prussia. Since the Ursini Family is extinct, there’s not one in Rome can equal the Colonna’s. The Head of this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince del Soglio, (of the Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand of the Pope’s Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece, and the present Emperor declar’d him his perpetual Ambassador for presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of Naples owes to the Holy See[3]. The Colonna’s are well-bred, affable and generous, and always liv’d with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because ’tis what is seldom known

among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most magnificent in Rome, as to the Inside of it; and ’tis pity but that it had another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being oblig’d for it to any of St. Peter’s Successors. Instead of giving you the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all richly furnish’d. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that are not to be found in that of Versailles, which is admir’d by all Europe: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which support an Arch at each End, whereby there’s an Entrance to the Salon, which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory gain’d in the Time of Pius V. over the Turks at Lepanto, by the Valour of Mark Antony Colonna. These Paintings are by different Hands, and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn the Walls which are fac’d with Marble, ’tis impossible to see any thing more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by Frenchmen. I never saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and Festival of St. Peter, which is the Time of the Constable’s presenting the Hackney to the Pope.

This Ceremony was perform’d not many Days ago; but as it cou’d not be on St. Peter’s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. Peter’s See, it was done at the Church of Our Lady del Popoli, on the Day of the Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the Cardinals

Olivieri and Banchieri, the one Secretary of the Briefs, and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach. When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton’d the Vespers, which were continu’d by the Music. During this, Don Philip Corsini, the Pope’s grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany’d the Holy Father, set out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable’s Palace. They were attended by a Detachment from the hundred Swiss Guards, Light-Horse and Carbineers. Don Philip Corsini complimented the Constable in the Name of Clement XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March; then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of Naples: The Princes march’d alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow’d by the Hackney, which is a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider’d with Silver, trailing on the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the Kingdom of Naples pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney, came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred Swiss, preceded by thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own Livery. Don Philip Corsini was on his Right-hand, and M. Acquaviva, the Major Domo, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left. The feudatory Prelates follow’d him, drest in short purple Mantles, and riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos’d by fifteen of the

Constable’s magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses. When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador kneeling before him, said to him, ‘That the Emperor Charles VI. King of the Two Sicilies, his Master, had charg’d him to deliver to his Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow’d to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of Naples.’ This Compliment must be made in the Spanish Tongue, to which the Pope makes Answer in Latin. Clement XII. said, ‘We accept the Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son Charles VI. Emperor and King of the Sicilies, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August Spouse Elizabeth the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the Father, &c.’ When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical Register, according to Custom. This done, Clement XII. went out of the Church, and return’d with a great Train to the Palace of Monte-cavallo. The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor’s Ambassador, his Cardinal Cienfuegos, who rode in the Constable’s chief Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk’d in a Body together, without any Distinction, but the Coaches follow’d alternatively, viz. one Coach of the Cardinal’s, and one of the Constable’s. His Eminency had ten, which were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they

arriv’d at the Constable’s Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white Wax. All the Nobility of Rome came in a few Moments after, with all the Cardinals. They were plentifully regal’d with Refreshments, and a fine Firework was play’d off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro’ the principal Streets of Rome; and in the Evening, the Ambassador’s Palace was illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear’d, as they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the Ceremony ended, and ’tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by assuring you, that I am ever, &c.

LETTER XXX.

SIR,Rome, Dec. 5, 1730.

Tho’ I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can’t forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince Borghese. There’s an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The Summer Apartment,

which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a Monarch. ’Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of Paul V. who was of the Borghese Family, and tho’ no more than an Advocate at first, rais’d his Family from the mean State it was in at Sienna.

The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a Bankrupt. There is not a Family in Rome for which St. Peter has done more than this. The Prince’s Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there’s a second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most populous in Rome, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent Country Houses, particularly that of Mondragone, near Frescati, built by Pope Paul V. and the Garden near the Gate Pinciano, made by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, one of that Pope’s Nephews. Before the Art of Gardening was introduc’d into Germany and France, the Gardens of Italy were reckon’d the finest in the World; but now-a-days ’tis otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ’d before) a Man is an Italian, and never pass’d the Alps, he will look with Contempt upon all the Gardens which the Romans call wonderful, charming, and astonishing. Nevertheless, I wou’d not have you think that I find no Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels,

of which the Walks are form’d, tho’ they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz’d at the Magnificence of those who made those Gardens, and am pleas’d to find by what they have done, that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of Paul V. and Cardinal Scipio, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince Borghese are kept in better Order than those of the other Roman Nobility; yet for all this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm’d, as the Gardens of France, Holland, and the Ultramontane Countries.

Mondragone stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. ’Tis a large Building, after the Model of the Palace of Monte-cavallo. The Apartments are spacious, but very sorrily furnish’d. The House at the Vineyard Pinciano is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with which ’tis adorn’d. ’Tis almost intirely cover’d on the Outside with stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, ’tis a Pleasure to see Curtius on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of Belisarius, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made, that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho’ very ill furnish’d, are adorn’d with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou’d admire David holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior Bernini; the Groupe representing Daphne beginning to be metamorphos’d into a Laurel, at the Nick of Time

when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient Statue of Seneca expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble, representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or Vessel of African Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the Gladiator in a fighting Posture, the Work of Agasias the Ephesian, as the Greek Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue; and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of curious Workmanship. ’Tis said that this Statue was discover’d under the Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of Victoria, at the Time that Cardinal Scipio Borghese caus’d it to be erected; and really ’tis so curious a Piece, that it wou’d have been pity it had not been found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other Statues of the Prince Borghese, I shou’d never have done; for no King in the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of a Treasure that is inestimable.

I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner Clement XII. has taken Possession of the Church of St. John de Lateran. This Ceremony was perform’d on Sunday the 19th of November last. The Pope went in the Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of Monte-Cavallo to that of the Vatican. At half an Hour past eighteen o’Clock, as they call it here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the Way, follow’d by several close Carriages cover’d with Tapestry embroider’d with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong’d: Then came the Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were follow’d by

their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of Bologna, and the Roman Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress’d in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope’s Equerries in red Robes, his Holiness’s Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge, went before two Portmanteaus trimm’d with red Velvet lac’d with Gold, which were carry’d on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute for Naples. The Pope’s Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover’d with red Velvet trimm’d with Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope’s Stables follow’d by two Prickers. At some Distance from thence came the Roman Nobility, walking without Distinction of Rank, all dress’d in black Coats and Mantles, with great Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope’s Mace-bearers, in long-sleev’d purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of solid Silver, and follow’d by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen Quarters, or Wards of the City of Rome. Four of the Pope’s Trumpeters dress’d in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in red Robes. The Valets de Chambre call’d Camerieri extra muros. The Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial Advocates dress’d in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes. The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple Robes. The four last carry’d on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of Rome, in Gowns of black Velvet, and

wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were follow’d by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then came the Governor of Rome in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes del Soglio in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding the Pope’s Cross-bearer, who carry’d the Image of our Saviour turn’d towards the Holy Father, and walk’d between two Ushers bearing red Wands. Then the Holy Father appear’d in a Litter, like a Phaethon, lin’d with red Velvet embroider’d and lac’d with Gold, carry’d by two white Mules. Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many red and silver’d Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin’d with white and silver Mohair, and inrich’d with broad Gold Lace, encompass’d the Litter, as did the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths trimm’d with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the hundred Swiss rode on Horseback, arm’d with a Cuirass of Iron, and his Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred Swiss arm’d with Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider’d with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin’d with Ermin, a Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At some small Distance follow’d fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were dress’d in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp’d over their Eyes, with their red

Hats. They were follow’d by Signior Neri Corsini, a Nephew of Clement XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops, assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber, the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was clos’d by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the Marquis Bartholomew Corsini, and the Duke Strozzi, (both Nephews of the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider’d with Gold. They had on their Hats great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry’d their Spears and Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were adorn’d with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue Taffeta, such as I have seen carry’d by the Spahis.

All this Cavalcade pass’d thro’ the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung with Tapestry of red Damask lac’d with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis Frangipani, a Roman Senator, receiv’d the Pope, and presented him the Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope answer’d by a Benediction. At Campo-Vaccino, thro’ which the Train pass’d, the Pope found near the Farnese Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which the Duke of Parma, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig’d to erect every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the Lateran Church. From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish’d by the Jews, who had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.

When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv’d at the Gate of St. John de Lateran, by the Cardinal Picus de Mirandola, Arch-priest of the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and being preceded by the Chapter of St. John de Lateran, conducted him to the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope being there seated, array’d himself in his Pontificalibus, and put on the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the Cardinal Arch-priest harangu’d him in the Name of the Chapter, and presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn’d with Flowers. During this, the Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from his Throne, advanc’d towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal Arch-priest perfum’d him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler to him, which the Pope dipp’d into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and was carry’d thro’ the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac’d himself upon a Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he receiv’d the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre, and took it off, just as the Service requir’d. Then his Holiness descended from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry’d to the Lateran Palace. During this, the Musick

play’d Anthems, and the Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv’d at the great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of Rome, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter’d among the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was carry’d in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals Banchieri and Olivieri, and thus he return’d to the Palace of Monte-Cavallo, attended by his usual Train.

This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav’d of them, than they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of Masquerade which I don’t think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of Jesus Christ. All the Laity dress’d in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple, mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in France and the Netherlands upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.

The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen for some Days before, had almost spoil’d it. Besides this, the Order of the Procession was very ill observ’d; for there were sometimes Intervals

of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the Lateran Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour getting along. ’Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals; if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from me again before Lent. I am, &c.

LETTER XXXI.

SIR,Rome, March 10, 1731

I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate for it; for Clement XII. has been continually teaz’d upon that Score from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all Countries, and all Courts are alike.

Having made my Application to Signior Acquaviva, the Major Domo, who officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] Doria, then indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order’d me to be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the

Door, according to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair, ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red Velvet. As I enter’d the Chamber, Signior Acquaviva bid me kneel, which I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach’d him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel’d again, and receiv’d the Pope’s Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming up close to the Pope, I kneel’d again, and receiv’d a third Blessing, all which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask’d me many Questions, and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope’s Countenance change; his Smiles were turn’d into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather have my Room than my Company. But being appriz’d beforehand, that his Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber, I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon; for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun’d, and therefore I will gratify him in his own Way.

Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than I did, unless they are

Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the Pope’s Toe. The Prince Regent of Waldeck, who was here not long ago, went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv’d in the same manner as the Princes of Brunswic had been formerly: He waited some Moments in the Antichamber, and without being oblig’d to leave his Sword and Hat, as those of his Retinue were, he was introduc’d by the Major Domo to the Pope, who receiv’d him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as he enter’d, nor did the Pope, who ask’d him several Questions, and was inform’d that he was a Lutheran, give him his Blessing: Before he withdrew, the Prince desir’d the Pope, that he would give him leave to introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the last Degree, neither kneel’d, nor kiss’d the Pope’s Foot. At Geneva indeed he deserv’d to have his Statue erected, tho’ here his Politeness was call’d in question; but as for the Prince of Waldeck, all Rome was charm’d with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five Months here, and liv’d handsomely. He apply’d himself to the Knowledge of Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho’ not so large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover’d a very great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for Germany if all its Princes were like him.

The Prince of Waldeck leads me to give you an Account of those unfortunate Princes who are here call’d the King and Queen of England. Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a Title I think no body can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make

him easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis Monti, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that are Persons of Quality. My Lord Dunbar is the chief Man at his Court, since Mr. Hayes, to whom the Pretender gave the Title of my Lord Inverness, retir’d to Avignon: This Gentleman is intrusted with the Education of the young Princes, who are here styl’d the Prince of Wales, and the Duke of York, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall see.

The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style of Majesty by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps incognito. When the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the Tabouret, or little Stool; but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem’d to be more embroil’d with the King of Great Britain than ever; whereas the French Cardinals go to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of Great Britain. When the eldest Prince, who is here styl’d the Prince of Wales, goes to wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals. As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of York, his Rank is not yet settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.

The Pretender is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is prodigiously

like the Pictures I have seen of the late King James II. his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch’d by the Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. Hayes, alias Lady Inverness, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely attach’d to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be educated by Protestants, and every Sunday a Church of England Minister preaches in English in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is extremely reserv’d at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table, and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.

His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv’d with what is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are seated at the King’s Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince’s Time is regularly divided; he rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Mass before Noon, when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint’s Day, when he goes to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden

or other without Rome, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o’Clock he goes to Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.

The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen; and tho’ not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish’d Lady, and never was there a better natur’d Person with more Humility; she is friendly, compassionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good, and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho’ she is heartily attach’d to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed, Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory, and she speaks Polish, High-Dutch, French, Italian, and English so well, that ’tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I had the Honour to approach, I don’t know one more deserving of the Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not

bind me so strongly to the King and Queen of Great Britain, I could wish to see her wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.

You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince James Sobieski, and by consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of Spain, and Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of Spain, Widow of Charles II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at Inspruck, when she pass’d that Way to Italy, to be married to the Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr. Gaydon, then a Major in the Service of France, to try if he could procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to Inspruck, accompany’d by Mr. Wogan, an English Gentleman, and one Misset, an Irishman, who carry’d his Wife with him. They arriv’d accordingly at Inspruck with a great Retinue, and there they pass’d for People of Consequence: They contriv’d so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was repair’d: They introduc’d themselves into all Assemblies, and found out a Nun whom they brib’d to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix’d on the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess’s Stature to pass thro’ the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner’s Bed, who for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl’s Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pass’d thro’ her Guards, and made up towards Misset, who gave a Whistle opposite to the Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow’d a

great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen’d to step into a Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig’d to leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. Misset and Mr. Gaydon had the Honour to sit with her. Wogan rode by the Side of the Coach, and Misset stay’d two Hours longer at Inspruck, to see whether any Discovery was made of the Princess’s Flight. The Silence of the Guard was such, that he believ’d they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and the Commandant at Inspruck immediately sent off Messengers to all the great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend the Fugitive. Misset being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he travell’d a little way with him, and resolv’d either to make him drunk, or to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the Messenger; and when he found him doz’d, he took away his Dispatches, and went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy See.

Arriving at Bologna, she there found my Lord Dunbar, vested with a Proxy from the Pretender, then in Spain, to marry her; which Ceremony was accordingly perform’d there without much Pomp, and the Princess set out in a few Days for Rome.

My Lady Marr, accompany’d by all the English of both Sexes that were at Rome of the Pretender’s Party, went in that Prince’s Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the Roman Princes, and all the Nobility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus did the Princess make her public Entry into Rome, where she was receiv’d with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join’d by her Husband[5].

While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you of a certain Prophecy in every body’s Mouth here, which was said to be found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734, the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of Great Britain; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:

Dum Marcus cantabit Hallelujah,
Et Antonius Veni Creator,
Et Joannes Baptista cænabit,
Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus III.

i. e.

When Easter falls on St. Mark’s Day,
And Whitsunday on St. Antony’s of Padua,
And when St. John the Baptist’s is a Sacrament Day,
Then King James III. shall reign and triumph in England.

Thanks to God, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to God, because it was to me very tiresom,

tho’ it lasted here, according to an establish’d Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o’Clock in the Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things, and the latter throw Meslin in one another’s Eyes by Handfuls; but the best on’t is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the Romans is always the same, even in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn’d with Plumes of Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street del Corso, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer’d to run loose without a Rider, from the Gate del Popoli to a Place beyond the Venetian Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro’ the Shouts and Cries of the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a Roman will tell you, that the Carnival of Rome is the finest in the World.

But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where to be parallell’d for Magnificence, is their Balls, of which you shall now be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb’d this Winter for the Hire of the Palace Barberini, near the Mount of Piety, and caus’d it to be furnish’d by the Jew Brokers; when the Day was fix’d for the Ball, they invited all the Ladies; and

as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of appearing there mask’d, provided they made themselves known at the Door: All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design’d for the principal Nobility was encompass’d with Forms, and the Place for the Dancers was an oval Nook rail’d in. A Gentleman of the Company that gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the Title of Master of the Hall, and ’twas he that call’d out the Dancers. All the Ladies were mask’d at this Ball, which was call’d a Feast, but I know not why; for there were Glasses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink. The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir’d, and in such Danger of being press’d to Death, that I don’t care to go again; for which reason the Romans say, I have not an elegant Taste.

Neither am I very well reconcil’d to their Plays, of which indeed here are none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there’s but one that’s good for any thing, and that’s the Ladies Theatre, commonly call’d the Theatre of Aliberti because ’twas built by Order of one Count Aliberti. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage is spacious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don’t shift the Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the three principal Actors are magnificent,

but those of the rest are horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can’t imagine any thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here, that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that the Operas of Rome are vastly inferior to the other Operas of Italy. There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures, who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho’ they have neither Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best Actresses are elsewhere. Tho’ I am passionately fond of the Italian Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see those Eunuchs play the Part of a Roland, a Hercules, or some such Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Class; viz. Leonard Vinci, who, they say, was poison’d at Naples; but there are still remaining M. Hass, commonly call’d the Saxon, and Signior Purpora, of whom the former is a German, who married the famous Signiora Faustina.

While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of Rome, I ought not to omit the Inundations of the Square Navona, which are perform’d on the four Sundays in the Month of August. Two Thirds of the Square being then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a

Ring. The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pass, and playing a thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the Square, bawl’d out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho’ very few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and ’twas not his Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions of his Merry-Andrew, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit had.

Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a Roman, who never pass’d the Ponte Mole, as there are a great many who have not, will tell you there are none like those of Rome. But I affirm that the Romans don’t know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where reigns the greatest Freedom, there’s always an Air of Constraint, which one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them, insomuch that when they assume such a Carriage, they naturally forget Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats, where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where they live much better than they do at Rome, at least they feed better; and I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don’t set it off to the best Advantage; and if I am

not too much prejudiced, it seems to me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for us Ultramontains, we are not quite so well used to their Method of Cookery.

I know not whether ’tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or Curiosity, can bring any Man to Rome, than which there is hardly a more melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in particular certain Englishmen, who are fond of Rome to a Degree of Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself, that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can’t be of that Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so contrary to ours. At my Age, ’tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste and Fashion of Living: Those of Rome don’t agree with me, and I foresee they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I promise you, I’ll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.

The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Mass in their domestic Chapel, of which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate del Popoli; from thence to the Ponte Mole there’s a Walk, which is very sorrily pav’d, between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and

there’s no Air, but Dust enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the Beau Monde repairs to the Square, or Place d’Espagne, where I think I have already told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their Visits of Ceremony: At Two o’Clock at Night, which in the long Days in Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into Assemblies. These may be divided into three Classes, the great Companies for Gaming, the private Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.

The Assemblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of Mesdames Corsini, the Pope’s Nieces, the Duke of Santo Bueno, and the Countess of Bolognetti. These are the three Houses at Rome where there is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain’d. The Duke has a Concert at his House every Friday, at which are present all the People of Distinction at Rome. Madame de Bolognetti has a grand Assembly every Sunday, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the most part well-dress’d, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbés, lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except Madame Bolognetti, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises; and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in French, which she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they don’t care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I travell’d hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable

Lady in the French Tongue, because then I did not understand the Italian; but she answer’d me in good French, Sir, I neither speak nor understand the French Language. She then turn’d about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking Abbé come in, who talk’d with her in private all the Evening, and probably in such a Language as she understood.

After the Levee they fall to play, but ’tis at such Games as we Ultramontains know no more of than Magic; viz. such as Tarot, Pazzica, Premiere, and Milchiades. As to the last of these, I take it to be like the Languages, which ’tis difficult to be Master of, unless People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man’s whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with 99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes, Devils, &c. and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope. During the Conclave they play at Pharao, but the Pope has prohibited all Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the Money for the Cards.

The private Assemblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a Dozen Petits-colets, who really are the Petits-Maîtres of this Place, supposing them to be Italians; for you are not to imagine that these Gentlemen will suffer a poor Ultramontain Abbé to put in a Word, because they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. ’Tis true, that the Abbé wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so that when you see a Petit-colet come out of any suspicious Places, you must beware

of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even Clergymen.

The third Class of Assemblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure and Freedom; yet ’tis at one of the chief Houses of Rome, and really the Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter a very spacious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles, so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou’d be at a Loss where to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles are plac’d in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fashion’d Stands of the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill Fortune plac’d him, because it wou’d be a Crime even to move a Chair; so that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don’t accept it every time ’tis offer’d; for if I did, my Stomach wou’d have long ago been congeal’d like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress’d in Black; the two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes the Assembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I assure you that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality. Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin’d to what is done

within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And after having thoroughly canvass’d these momentous Subjects till Midnight, all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.

Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner passes his Time here well? No, truly, Rome is a City that a young Gentleman indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture, and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old Rome: But when he has digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing. There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of the Languages that understands the Italian; and those who are Dabblers in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method. All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are Masters of it in its Purity.

A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the good Manners he may have contracted in France, or elsewhere; for, I say it again, the Generality of the Romans know nothing more than Ceremony, because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there’s scarce one of them in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this, one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they then loll so

much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in France, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho’ an Italian, was in the French Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told me one Day that he observ’d I follow’d the French Fashion strictly: I ask’d him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my Shirt every Day. Nevertheless I wou’d not have you think that this Slovenliness is general; for there are People as much perfum’d here as elsewhere; and you may take my Word for it, that a Petit-Maître at Rome is as great a Fop as the pertest French Petit-Maître. Indeed they are more rare here than elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the Assemblies before they are twenty Years of Age.

But as for what remains of the Character of the Romans, I must tell you ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all Countries, and I know some Romans of as strict Probity as the honestest Teutonics. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth, where all the People are virtuous? The Italians are in general accus’d of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there’s no Nation where the Ladies have more Freedom than here. ’Tis possible that some of the Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as to the People of Quality, I don’t think them any more liable to that Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou’d say as much in their Vindication as

to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the Fact is too well known, and ’tis the original Sin of almost all the Italians, particularly of the Romans, from the highest to the lowest; and ’tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus’d also of being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry’d out against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some that have receiv’d Affronts, so good-natur’d as to forget them. ’Tis true, that the Populace are very apt to make use of the Stilletto, but this is owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder for the first Time is condemn’d to the Gallies; tho’ in some Cases indeed he is only banish’d from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then, after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to Rome. They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money. If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou’d have more Crimes perhaps committed among us than there are at Rome, where, when all is said and done, we don’t hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of Robberies; and tho’ there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls here in the Night, I shou’d make no Scruple to go from one End of the City to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou’d be most afraid of wou’d be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind are much oftner

committed among the Dregs of the People, than among Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such an Accident to any Person of Note.

I happen’d not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven o’Clock, ’twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People stirring in the Streets. I pass’d thro’ the Street del Corso, and just as I came to the Square of Colonna, near the House of Cardinal Imperiali, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance behind the other: As the former brush’d close by me, I heard a Pistol go off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming; but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after; at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50 Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But ’tis really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou’d serve as a Place of Retreat for a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour’s Blood. This is an Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient Privileges. In the last Pope’s Time, Alberoni propos’d to the other Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he said with Indignation, ‘Since ’tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain wou’d take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole

Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to Justice, I wou’d do all in my Power to promote his Escape.’ ’Tis said, that Clement XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People, and the Homage of the Mob.

Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so establish’d, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better serv’d, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this Purpose there’s a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it almost every Day, who are there lodg’d and taken care of for three Days, and then dismiss’d with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv’d, the Men by the Cardinals, and the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of Rome.

Divine Service is perform’d with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but particularly in the Pope’s Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all the Ceremonies therein observ’d, it wou’d take me up another Day. I will, in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, which, tho’ I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of Clement XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, &c.

LETTER XXXII.

SIR,Rome, June 15, 1731.

Tho’ the first Promotion of Cardinals by Clement XII. was made the Close of the last Year, yet I had so many other Matters to entertain you with, that I deferr’d giving you an Account of that Ceremony till now. This Promotion was made in Favour of three Nuncios, (who, by the way, never quit their Nunciatures, but for the sake of being made Cardinals) I mean the Nuncios in Germany, France, and Spain, and Signior Ruspoli, the Pope’s Kinsman. The latter might have had the Hat during the Pontificate of Benedict XIII. his Father having obtain’d it for him of Cardinal Coscia, on the Promise of thirty thousand Crowns; but being appriz’d of the Bargain, which his Father had made with Coscia, he went to Corsini, then a Cardinal, and now Pope, who was his Father’s Friend and Kinsman, and having told him what had pass’d betwixt his Father and Coscia, intreated him to frustrate the Contract, saying, that he wou’d never accept of a Hat, unless he had it from the Pope’s mere Good-will. Cardinal Corsini being charm’d with the generous Temper of young Ruspoli, took Care to vacate the Bargain; and now that he is seated in St. Peter’s Throne, he has preferr’d Ruspoli over the Heads of many Prelates, who have grown grey in the Service of the Holy See.

This Promotion was made at Monte-Cavallo. The Pope had declar’d in a private Consistory, that he was resolv’d to make five Cardinals, viz. the three Nuncios above-mention’d, Signior Ruspoli, and a Fifth, whom he reserv’d in Petto. The Cardinal Secretary of State, for want of a Cardinal Nephew, immediately dispatch’d Couriers to the Nuncios to carry them the News of their Promotion, and likewise sent to acquaint Ruspoli of what had pass’d. This Prelate, who waited for the good News in the Apartment of the Cardinal Secretary of State, went immediately up the Back-Stairs to the Pope, and thank’d him for the Favour he had just done him, and then return’d to his Palace, where he receiv’d the Compliments of all the Nobility. In the Afternoon he went and paid a Visit to Signior Neri Corsini, Clement XIIth’s Nephew, the Man whom the Holy Father had reserv’d in Petto. On the Thursday following there was a public Consistory, in which the new Cardinal, who, till that Day, had, according to the Ceremonial, been oblig’d to keep his Chamber, and to be dress’d in Purple, receiv’d the Hat from the Pope’s own Hand. His Eminency repair’d in the Morning to the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo, while the Cardinals were assembled in the Chamber of the Consistory. He was join’d in the Chapel by these Cardinals, viz. Barberini, who represented the Dean of the Sacred College; Ottoboni, the Great Chancellor; Albano, the Chamberlain; and Cienfuegos, Treasurer of the Chapel. Their Eminencies, after great Compliments, led their new Collegue towards the Altar, and gave him the usual Oath of Fidelity to the Holy See. They return’d from thence into the Hall of the Consistory, and the new Cardinal was left alone in the Chapel, with his Caudataire, or Train-bearer, and a Master of the Ceremonies. During

this, the Cardinals went, and made their Obedience to the Pope, by kissing his Hand; after which two of the Cardinal Deacons went to fetch Cardinal Ruspoli, and introduced him into the Hall of the Consistory. As he enter’d within the Bar, he made a low Bow to the Pope, who was seated at the other End on his Throne; he made a second Obeisance in the Middle of the Hall, and a third at the Foot of the Throne; after which he fell on his Knees, and kiss’d both the Foot and Hand of the Holy Father, who rais’d him from the Ground, and embraced him. The new Cardinal went afterwards, and embraced his Collegues, according to the Order of their Seniority, and then return’d and fell on his Knees again to the Pope. A Master of the Ceremonies drew the Cowl over his Head, and the Pope put on his Hat, which was taken off in a Moment by the Master of the Ceremonies. The new Cardinal now kiss’d the Holy Father’s Foot and Hand a second Time; and the Pope, rising from his Throne, retired to his Chamber, whither Ruspoli followed him, and after having thank’d him for the Honour he had done him, went and rejoin’d the Cardinals in the Hall of the Consistory. This done, they went in Procession, with the Pope’s Music playing before them, to the Chapel, where Te Deum was sung; after which the Cardinals went into the great Room that is before the Chapel, call’d the Royal Hall. There they form’d a Circle, where the new Cardinal thank’d his Collegues for the Honour they had done him, by admitting him for a Brother, and then they all retir’d. When Ruspoli came home, he there found a Gentleman of the Pope’s Privy-chamber, who brought him the Hat, which the Pope had just before put upon his Head, in a Silver Bason. When Dinner was over, the new Cardinal repair’d with a great

Train to St. Peter’s Church; after which he went and paid his Respects to the Pretender to the Crown of England, and to the Princess his Wife; he also made a Visit to the Cardinal Dean; and on the Days following he visited the whole Sacred College, without regard to their Rank.

A Week after the public Consistory the Pope held a private one, in which he both shut and open’d the Mouth of Cardinal Ruspoli. At the former Ceremony, the new Pope kneeling at the Holy Father’s Feet, his Holiness laid two Fingers on the Cardinal’s Mouth, and strictly injoin’d him not so reveal to any body what shou’d pass in the Consistories at which he shou’d be present. This closing up of the Mouth formerly depriv’d the Cardinals of either speaking or voting, whenever it happened that they enter’d the Conclave before the Pope had open’d their Mouths; which might sometimes be the Case, because the Popes generally left an interval of some Days between the Ceremony of shutting the Mouth, and that of opening it. But Pius V. declar’d by a Bull which he publish’d the 26th of January 1571, that the shutting of the Mouth being a mere Ceremony, it shou’d not exclude the new Cardinals from giving their Votes, or speaking.

Cardinal Ruspoli being now upon his Legs before the Pope went and took his Place among the Cardinals: At the same time the Holy Father pronounc’d the Words extra omnes, which are repeated by a Master of the Ceremonies, and oblige all but the Cardinals to turn out. Then the secret Consistory was held, after which the Doors were set open, and every body re-enter’d the Room. The new Cardinal went again, and threw himself at the Pope’s Feet, who open’d his Mouth, by giving him the Power both of Voting and

Speaking. At the same time he nominated the Church of which he was to bear the Title, and this he did by putting on his Finger a Gold Ring adorn’d with an oriental Saphir, for which the Cardinal, according to a Custom establish’d by Gregory XV. is to pay five hundred Crowns of Gold to the College de propaganda fide. With that the Ceremony ended. In the Evening the Palaces of the Cardinals, the Princes and the Foreign Ministers, and those likewise of the other Persons of Quality, were illuminated as they had been on the Day of the Promotion.

There are, as I have observ’d, two Sorts of Consistories, the one Public, the other Secret, and they are both notify’d to the Cardinals by two of the Pope’s Ushers, who receive the Order directly from the Holy Father himself. These Ushers give previous Notice also of all the public Chapels to be held, of all Processions, Cavalcades, and other Ceremonies. They wear Gowns of purple Cloth, and carry a black Wand. They speak to the Cardinals on the Knee, in these Terms, Eminentissime Domine, Crastina Die, Hora, &c. in Palatio Apostolico erit Consistorium secretum, or, fiat Processio. They have this Privilege, that the Cardinals must not let them wait a Moment; but are oblig’d to admit them, in what Plight soever they are, to receive their Messages standing, and to veil their Bonnet to them. These Ushers have the Privilege also, that when they find a Cardinal at Table, they may carry off the best Dish, unless the Cardinal chuses rather to give them a Couple of Pistoles.

This Consistory is in a proper Sense the Pope’s Council of State, wherein he deliberates secretly with the Cardinals on the most important Affairs of the Holy See. After the Pope has therein given a particular Audience to each Cardinal, the

Bishops are therein nominated to vacant Sees, and the Palls conferr’d upon the Archbishops. Every thing that has been treated of in the consistorial Congregations, is there determin’d, as is, in short, every thing whatsoever relating to the Welfare of the Church, both in Spirituals and Temporals: And this is what is call’d the Secret Consistory. In the Public Consistory, the Pope receives the Ambassadors that come from Tributary Countries, and delivers the Hat to the new Cardinals. The Pope has the Power of assembling the Consistory as often as he thinks fit, and on that Day all other Congregations are suspended. In this Public Consistory, the Pope’s Throne is rais’d much higher than ordinary, and the Cardinals sit on high Benches, with their Train-bearers plac’d at their Feet. The Constable Colonna, in Quality of first Prince of the Throne, stands on the Right-hand of it, which is a Post of Honour that he yields to none but the Pope’s Nephews. The Ambassador of Bologna, and the Conservators of Rome, in Robes of Gold Tissue, are plac’d on both Sides of the Throne, about which are also the Pope’s great Officers. The Holy Father is supported by two Cardinals, one on the Right, the other on the Left of the Throne, sitting on Stools.

When the Pope declares he has a Cardinal in Petto, tho’ he names him not, he is always sure to be a Cardinal, and walks even at the Head of all those that are to receive the Hat before him. When it happens that the Pope dies ere he has declar’d him in Public, ’tis sufficient if the Holy Father leaves a Note behind him, wherein he says, that the Person whom he declar’d a Cardinal in Petto, is such a one; or if two Cardinals attest that they heard the deceased Pope say, who was the Man that he had nominated in Petto.

The Dignity of a Cardinal is look’d upon here as the greatest Thing in the World. There are no Cabals nor Intrigues of any kind, which the Prelates of this Court don’t form to obtain it; and a Family at Rome never thinks its Fortune made, if it has not some Cardinal of its own Name. This is so true, that one of the first Princes in Rome, who did not want a Hat in his Family, for the sake of illustrating it, did nevertheless, during the Pontificate of Benedict XIII. purchase one for his Son, of the Cardinal Coscia, at the Price of eighty thousand Crowns. But ’tis mere Ambition only that can make a Man wish to be a Cardinal; for the Life which those purple Gentry lead, is, as ’tis here said, the most melancholy in the World; every thing they do at home is by Compass and Measure; they are continually under Uneasiness and Constraint, oblig’d almost every Day to be present at Chapels, Congregations, and Consistories, must give and receive Visits of Ceremony, assist at the Festivals of the Church, at the taking of Habits, granting of Audiences; in short, a Cardinal who minds his Profession, has not an Hour in the Day that he can call his own. ’Tis true, that an infinite deal of Respect is paid to them; but what signify such empty Honours, attended with a perpetual Constraint, to a rational Man, who is moreover a Nobleman by Birth, and does not forget that he is but a Man? I am sure, there are above four Cardinals to whom their Grandeur is a Burden.

When a Cardinal goes abroad with a great Train, which is here call’d in Fiochi, he must have three Coaches. That in which he rides himself goes foremost, preceded by all his Livery Servants, and a Footman carrying an Umbrella under his Arm. All that meet him, tho’ they are Princes, must stop for him; and when two Cardinals

meet one another riding out after this manner in State, they must both stop their Coaches, and compliment each other, and then the oldest passes on first. When the Cardinals thus ride out with this Ceremony, they are dress’d in long Robes of Scarlet, except in Time of Lent, when they are of Purple. Their common Dress is that of an Abbat, with a red Bonnet and Stockings; and ’tis in this Habit they make their familiar Visits, without any Retinue, and with the Curtains of their Coach drawn. The best way of seeing them, after a Person has been once introduc’d to them, is to attend in their Train, when they go to any public Function, or to make any Visit of Ceremony. The Cardinal, when he takes Coach, salutes those who are to ride with him. The most honourable Place in it is by the Side of the Cardinal, the second upon a Seat in the Boot or the Coach, next to his Eminency, and so of the rest.

As to the vehement Outcry in our Part of the World against the Luxury of the Cardinals, I really think it unjust; for I can’t see wherein it consists. Their Houshold is not over and above numerous. Their Domestics are generally a Maître de Chambre, an Officer who they say is tantamount to the great Chamberlain of our Electors; a Cupbearer; a Train-bearer; one or two Gentlemen; two or three Priests; as many Valets de Chambre; eight or ten Lackeys; three Coachmen; eight Horses, and three Coaches. Their Furniture is red Damask very plain. They keep so frugal a Table, that they commonly allow their Cook but one or two Testoons a Day to defray the Expence of it, exclusive of the Bread, Wine and Fruit; for they always eat alone. None but the Cardinal Ministers keep an open Table at any time; and of these, not one does it at present, but the

Cardinal de Polignac, the Minister[7] of France: For the Cardinal Cienfuegos, the Emperor’s Ambassador, has retrench’d his Table, by reason of his great Age; as has the Cardinal[8] Bentivoglio, on account of his Infirmities.

I can’t help thinking there’s much more Reason to exclaim against the ridiculous Pretension of the Cardinals to an Equality with crown’d Heads, and to take Place of Sovereigns, tho’ a Cardinal is often but an ordinary Man at first, only rais’d to the Purple by good Fortune, and the Favour of the Pope; of which we have living Instances in two Creatures of the last Pontificate, the Cardinals Fini and Coscia. That such Cardinals shou’d presume to have the Precedency of an Elector of Bavaria, or of Cologne, of a Duke of Lorain, and in short, of every Prince whatsoever, is what, notwithstanding all my Respect to the Sacred College, I must own to be an Absurdity. That these Cardinals have conceiv’d such a high Opinion of their Dignity, is owing to the excessive Complaisance of the Princes of Italy, who every-where give them the upper Hand; and a Cardinal takes so much State upon himself, that he refuses the Precedency in his own House, to a Sovereign Prince of Italy. Our Princes on the other Side of the Mountains are perhaps as staunch Catholics, and as much devoted to the Holy See, as the Italian Princes are; yet they don’t pay this Homage to the Cardinals. And indeed, what Reason is there for it? We have seen Cardinals in the Service of Sovereigns; and I dare affirm, there are very few of ’em that wou’d refuse to be Pensioners to an Elector of the Empire.

When one Cardinal makes a Visit to another, the latter receives the Visitant at the Coach-door, and conducts him into the Chamber of Audience, where they both place themselves in Arm-chairs, under a Canopy; and after having been a few Minutes by themselves, the Gentlemen of the Cardinal that receives the Visit, bring them Ice, Chocolate, and Sweetmeats. When the Stranger goes away, the other waits on him to the Coach, lends him a Hand to put him into it, and even shuts the Coach-door. They give one another the Title of Eminency, but in all their Interviews there’s a great Air of Constraint.

The complete Number of Cardinals is Seventy. They are the Pope’s Counsellors in ordinary, and have the Right of electing him. They are distinguish’d into three Orders, viz. Six Cardinal Bishops, fifty Priests, and fourteen Deacons. Their Number was fix’d by Pope Sixtus the Vth. The first Cardinal Bishop is styl’d Dean of the Sacred College. He that is so now is Cardinal Pignatelli, Archbishop of Naples. This Dean, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, are styl’d Chiefs of the Order; and as such they have the Prerogative of giving Audience to Ambassadors, and to the Magistrates of the Ecclesiastical State, during the Vacancy of the Holy See. Innocent the IVth, while the Council was held at Lyons, made a Rule that the Cardinals Hat shou’d be red, to denote that they were always ready to shed their Blood for the Liberties of the Church. Boniface the VIIIth order’d that they shou’d wear scarlet Robes. Paul III. requir’d that their Bonnets shou’d be of the same Colour; and Urban the VIIIth granted them the Title of Eminency, which before that was only given to the Ecclesiastical Electors of the Empire, and to the Grand Master of Malta. The Council of Trent

own’d it to be the Right of all Nations, to put in for the Dignity of Cardinal; but those who push for it with the greatest Success, are the Kindred of the reigning Pope, the Nuncios in Germany, France and Spain, the Auditors of the Rota, the Clerks of the Chamber; and in fine, many of the Pope’s Great Officers.

There are few Examples in History of Cardinals that have quitted the Hat. The first that had a mind to do it, was the Cardinal Ardicinio; but Pope Innocent VIII. refus’d to consent to it, at the Remonstrance of the Cardinals, who represented to him, that the Church ought by no Means to be depriv’d of so good a Subject. Some time after this, Cardinal Borgia resign’d his Dignity to Alexander VI. The Cardinal Henry of Portugal quitted his too, for the sake of succeeding to his Brother,[9] the King Don Sebastian. After him, Ferdinand de Medicis, upon the Death of his Brother Francis de Medicis, without Issue Male, preferr’d the Sovereignty of Tuscany to the red Hat, which he restor’d to Pope Sixtus V. There are also several Instances of Persons who have preferr’d an austere Retirement to the vain Grandeur of the Purple, particularly Cardinal Maurice of Savoy, Ferdinand and Vincent Gonzague, Francis of Lorain, Camillus Pamphili, John Casimir of Poland; and Gabriel Filippuci of Macerata, so lately as in the Pontificate of Clement XI. This Resignation of the Hat cannot be made without the Pope’s Consent to it; and when this is done, the Cardinal who renounces it must pay the Officers of the Apostolical Palace the same Sum, as his Heirs wou’d be oblig’d to pay, if he was dead.

There being a Hat vacant by the Exaltation of every Pope, they commonly honour one or

other of the Pope’s Family with it who advanc’d them to the Purple; which is what they here call Restitution; and when they omit this Piece of Respect, they are accus’d of Ingratitude. Clement XII. has not yet made this Restitution to the Albano[10] Family, tho’ he has promoted half a score Cardinals. He thought it was more natural to confer that Dignity on his Kindred and Friends; and at the last Promotion which he made, he contented himself with making an Apology to the Albani, because he did not restore their Hat to them for that time, assuring them, that he wou’d take care to satisfy them, at the very next Promotion. The Albani were oblig’d to set a good Face on a bad Game; but I would not give them much for the Hat they are like to have of Clement XII. for you are to take Notice, that the Pope is fourscore Years of Age; that he is afflicted with the Gout and other Ailments; that there is not one Hat vacant, and yet the Holy Father hopes to live to make another Promotion, and then to satisfy the Albani.

The Pope pretends to the Prerogative of deposing the Cardinals, but they deny it. Be this as it will, there’s hardly an Instance that the Popes ever exercis’d this Act of Authority. Clement XI. had an Intention indeed to haue depriv’d Cardinal Alberoni of his Hat, because when the Cardinal was the Minister of Spain, he employ’d that Money against the Emperor, which the Pope had permitted him to levy upon the Clergy for the War against the Turks. But Clement XI. met with so much Opposition from the Sacred College, that he cou’d not accomplish it, and died. Whether Clement XII. will succeed better, and whether he will ever be able to deprive Coscia of

his Hat, which is what he seems to be very much set upon, I know not; for he too is thwarted under-hand by a great many of the Cardinals, who, as unworthy as Cardinal Coscia is of the Purple, are not willing that he shou’d serve as an Example for the future. The Pope is also too old to see the Issue of this Process, which, tho’ it has been fifteen Months depending, is not yet very far advanc’d. Cardinal Coscia is retir’d to Naples. He has been very much blam’d for quitting Rome, and People who know the Tricks of this Court, have assur’d me that he might have stay’d here safe enough. As for my own Part, if I had been the unfortunate Cardinal Coscia, I wou’d have retir’d, but not in the Manner that he did. Moreover I promise you, that were I in the Case that he is now, they shou’d cite me long enough before I wou’d be seen at Rome; and I think, whoever advis’d him to the contrary, was in the wrong[11].

You know that immediately after the Death of Pope Benedict XIII. the Populace ran to Coscia’s Palace, plunder’d it, and wou’d have torn the Cardinal Limb from Limb, if he had not escap’d by a Back-door; after which, he disguis’d himself, and left the City. He ought not to have come back again, or else he shou’d have got a safe Conduct from his Collegues, whereby he might have been sure of a Permission to retire to his Archbishoprick of Benevento, after the Election of the new Pope; but he did not take this Precaution. He came and assisted at the Conclave, and afterwards went to live in his Palace. The new Pope threaten’d him with the Castle of St. Angelo; whereupon he was frighten’d, and march’d out of the Country; which is charg’d upon him as a Crime, because a Bull of Innocent X. of the Pamphili Family, publish’d the 19th of February, 1646, injoins, that no Cardinal shall depart out of the Dominions of the Holy See, without Leave of the Pope; with this Clause moreover, that the Cardinal who disobeys it shall be summon’d three times in the Space of fifteen Months, viz. once at the End of each six Months, and the last Time at the End of three Months after the second Citation; and if then the Cardinal be still obstinate, and does not return, he shall be depriv’d of the

Hat. Coscia has as yet been cited but once, and does not seem inclin’d to return, tho’ his Acquaintance don’t stick to affirm that he will. Mean time, he has been depriv’d of the Archbishoprick of Benevento, which the Pope has conferr’d on[12] M. Doria, the first Gentleman of his Bed-chamber; a Thing so unusual, that Cardinal Coscia complain’d of it bitterly, tho’ to no manner of Purpose. I question whether the Cardinal will ever come hither again, even tho’ the Pope were to give him his Passport: And really, what happen’d to M. Targa, his Brother, is enough to deter him; for this Prelate coming to Venice, after he had been at Vienna, soliciting the Emperor’s Protection for himself and his Brother in vain, the Pope order’d him to return to Rome; which, after having desir’d, and obtain’d Promise of a Safeguard for his Person, he did accordingly, and took up his Lodging in a Convent. But two Days after this, the Pope sent him an Order to remove to another, and not to stir out of it without his Leave. Targa yields Obedience, and the Monks, to whose Guard he was committed, watch him narrowly; yet for all this, there came certain Soldiers one Night, who carry’d him off to the Castle of St. Angelo; which seems to be the very Safeguard that the Pope intended by his Promise; for there he is closely confin’d, and can speak to nobody. These severe Acts of Justice are frequent in the Pontificate of Clement XII. who taking a Fancy to undo every thing that was done by his Predecessor, on Pretence that the said Pope alienated the Rights of the Holy See, we hear of

nothing but Writs and Attachments. The wisest Men, or, if you will, the greatest Criminals, get out of the Way, while others suffer themselves to be arrested, as did Signior Sardini, who was impeach’d of having put the late Pope upon making a Treaty with the King of Sardinia, by which the Holy Father granted that Prince the Nomination to all the Bishopricks and Benefices in his Kingdom. This Prelate was arrested in his House in the Night-time, and committed to the Castle of St. Angelo, where he is kept a Prisoner of State[13]. Not many Days before he was arrested, all his Papers were seiz’d, which he desir’d to have again for the Vindication of his Conduct, but they were refus’d. Some Days ago the Pope sent to tell him, that he had his Leave to justify himself, if he cou’d; to which Sardini made Answer, That he had nothing to say; that the Pope shou’d be his Judge, and Cardinal Corsini, his Holiness’s Nephew, shou’d be his Advocate: But all this has stood him in no stead; he is still in Prison, and ’tis said, that the Pope will either behead or pardon him.

Some time ago Cardinal Ottoboni made Interest for one Nocera, a Canon, who was in Trouble also upon Sardini’s Account; and he desir’d the Pope that he wou’d please to call in the Writ issued for attaching the Person of Nocera, who was retir’d to a Sanctuary at Albano. The Pope made Answer to the Cardinal, That he was sorry he

cou’d not grant him his Request; but that he wou’d not charge his Conference with the Sin of having suffer’d Iniquity to pass with Impunity. ‘We are old, said the Holy Father; and our Age tells us, that it can’t be long before we shall appear at God’s Tribunal; therefore we are desirous of so behaving, that we may hope there to find Mercy; but this is what we dare not expect, if we don’t let Justice take its Course. Who knows, my dear Cardinal, whether we shall live till To-morrow?’ ‘Your Holiness, reply’d the Cardinal, ought not to think of dying so soon: For God generally grants to great Princes two Stages of Life, one wherein to display their Justice, and the other their Mercy. He has permitted your Holiness to finish the Career of Justice, and ’tis to be hop’d, that he will also permit you to run that of Mercy.’

I will conclude my long Letter with a very curious Anecdote, which I had from Cardinal Imperiali, who has had the Purple so long, that he is actually grown grey in it. As he was talking one Day of the Bull of Innocent X. which forbids the Cardinals from departing the Ecclesiastical State without the Pope’s Leave, he told me, That Innocent X. fulminated this Bull by reason of the Elopement of Cardinal Astalli, his Kinsman, when he went to deprive him of his Hat. What gave Occasion to all the Rout was this: After the Portuguese had shook off the Yoke of the Spaniards, and restor’d the Braganza Family to the Throne, the King of Spain, who always took the Title of King of Portugal, pretended that ’twas his Right to nominate to the Bishopricks and Benefices that became vacant in Portugal. The Pope was at that time in so much Subjection to the Spaniards, that this Plea of their Monarch perplex’d him sadly. At last he thought of

extricating himself out of this Difficulty, by referring it to a Consistory to nominate to the Portuguese Bishopricks, and he resolv’d to assemble one with all Speed for that Purpose. He imparted his Design to no Person but the Cardinal Secretary of State, and the Cardinal Astalli, whom he injoin’d not to speak of it on Pain of Death. The Evening when the Consistory was to be summon’d for the next Day, the Ambassador of Spain made such an earnest Application for an Audience of him, that he durst not refuse it. The Minister therein told him, That he was inform’d of his Design; and at the same time protested against every thing that shou’d be done in the said Consistory, contrary to the Pretensions of the King his Master. The Pope, very much incens’d that his Secret had taken Wind, suspected that he had been betray’d by his Secretary of State, and he reproach’d him for it bitterly, threatning him with the Loss of his Head. The Minister swore, that he had not reveal’d it to the Spaniard; and he said moreover, That if the Ambassador knew of his Holiness’s Secret, it cou’d be only from Cardinal Astalli. He desir’d but twenty-four Hours of the Pope to prove his Innocence; and to find out where the Guilt lay. For this End he sent for one of the Spanish Ambassador’s Valets de Chambre, and promis’d him five hundred Pistoles, if, after he put his Master to Bed, he wou’d search his Pockets, and take out a Letter which he said he knew there was in one of them, written in the very Hand of Cardinal Astalli. The Valet de Chambre cou’d not stand the Temptation, but carry’d the fatal Letter to the Cardinal Secretary of State, and he made Haste with it to the Pope; whose Wrath was then wholly turn’d against Astalli, to such a Degree, that he forbad him his Palace, and actually intended to have him

arrested the very next Day: But Astalli disappointed him of that Pleasure, escap’d the same Night in a Felucca from Rome, and sail’d for Sicily. Then it was that Innocent X. issued the Bull in Question. He caus’d Astalli to be summon’d, who indeed return’d to the Dominions of the Holy See; but he stay’d in a little frontier Town of the Kingdom of Naples, where he was accompany’d by a Guard of two thousand Spaniards, who remain’d with him as long as the Pope liv’d, after whose Death Astalli return’d to Rome. I have the Honour to be, &c.

LETTER XXXIII.

SIR,Rome, Sept. 5, 1731.

Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported to me; if I accuse wrongfully, ’tis owing to my Misinformation, or my Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can’t define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I will now relate them to you as they pass’d this Year.

On Palm Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.

Upon the last Wednesday in Lent, the Cardinals went after Dinner to the Pope’s Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the Tenebræ, sung by the Pope’s Voices, without being accompany’d by Instruments. ’Tis perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos’d, and ’tis so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.

The Pope being somewhat indispos’d upon Holy Thursday, Cardinal Barberini officiated for him. The Cardinals repair’d in the Morning to the Vatican in Sixtus’s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which the Cardinal Barberini, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in Mitres and white Copes, carry’d the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into Paul’s Chapel, which was finely illuminated. There our Lord’s Body was deposited, after which the Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers Nations, dress’d in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal Barberini, who sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc’d some Collects, which were answer’d by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin, and went and wash’d the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which was carry’d by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip’d their Feet dry, he kiss’d them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he reascended the Throne,

and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up the Pater-noster, and the Music finish’d it. This done, he went with the Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum’d his ordinary Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was elegantly serv’d. The Pope’s Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if the Pope had been well, he wou’d have done the same himself. The Cardinals din’d also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests Table is defray’d by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both Tables is order’d by the Pope’s Major Domo. The Cardinal’s Beaufet is very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that is better dispos’d. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with ’em; which, ’tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that happen’d to Pope Alexander VI. and his Son Cæsar Borgia, Duke de Valentinois, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the Cardinal Adrian de Cornetto, order’d Wine that was poison’d to be serv’d up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But Cornetto had the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and Cæsar suffer’d by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill’d them out each a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar’d, which

kill’d the Pope; but Cæsar, having caus’d himself to be wrapp’d up in the Skin of a Mule, recover’d.

After Dinner, the Cardinals return’d to Sixtus’s Chapel, where they assisted at the Tenebræ, and the Miserere. This Day’s Ceremony of washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes. We find in the History of France, that Robert the Pious, he that was call’d King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash’d their Feet, particularly upon Holy Thursday. So at Vienna, Versailles, in Spain, and at several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.

Upon good Friday in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at Divine Service in Sixtus’s Chapel; after which, they din’d together, but they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope’s Chaplains read the Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the Miserere, and then they all went down into St. Peter’s Church, where, having form’d a Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel’d down upon Cushions of purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc’d the Reliques, which were held forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our Saviour’s Side was pierc’d, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of the Cross on which he was crucify’d.

On Saturday the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo.

Upon Sunday, which was the first Day of Easter, the Pope, dress’d in his Pontificalibus, was carry’d in his processional Chair to his Chapel, where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal Priest. Then the

Pope was carry’d to the Box or Gallery facing the Great Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull In Cœna Domini with an audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square. After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir’d from the Castles of Monte-Cavallo, and St. Angelo, gave his Benediction twice to the Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn, and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon Holy Thursday and Good Friday, while the Church is in Mourning for the Saviour of the World, the Pope’s Chapel is stripp’d of all Ornaments, the Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.

Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the Agnus Dei’s of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. John the Baptist. This of Agnus Dei is an old Custom in the Church. St. Augustin makes mention of it in his 118th Epistle. Baronius assures us, in his 8th Volume, that ’twas the Custom in his Time, upon the Quasimodo Sundays, to distribute among the People Agnus Dei’s consecrated by the Pope. And Cardinal Bellarmine says, that in 798, Pope Leo III. gave an Agnus Dei to the Emperor Charlemain, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn’d with precious

Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate Agnus Dei’s in the first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of their Exaltation. Clement XII. perform’d the Ceremony on the Wednesday after Easter, in the great Hall of his Apartment at Monte-Cavallo, which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope’s Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps to it, for the Ambassador of Venice, the Ladies, and other Persons of Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover’d with red Damask, there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of solid Silver, full of Water,

placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and gilt, Admirably carv’d by Bernini. When the Pope, accompanied by ten Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the same, struck up the Veni Spiritus Sancte, which the Music carry’d on. Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp’d them into the Holy Water, and carry’d it to mix with the Water that was in the four Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons, and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The Chamberlains of Honour, and the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the Agnus Dei’s in wooden Tubs, wash’d with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns fill’d with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish’d them up again with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the Prelates deliver’d to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days they made threescore thousand Agnus Dei’s, which they say cost the Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.

Upon Quasimodo Sunday, the Pope distributed the Agnus’s with very great Ceremony in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo. He was carry’d in his Processional Chair from his Apartment to the

Chapel, where, being seated on his Throne, and the Agnus Dei having been perform’d by the Music, one of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the Agnus’s in a Silver Bason, preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter’d the Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, Pater Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja. To which the Choir answered, Deo Gratias; Alleluja. Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and kneel’d down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope’s Throne, to whom he presented a Bason full of Agnus Dei’s, in little Packets, wrapp’d up in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the Standers-by, who receiv’d them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.

There’s a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These are the Roman Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they are pleas’d to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous Gentlemen,

who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself, and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they pass by.

The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex’d to Nepotism have been abolish’d, they have been oblig’d to humble themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope’s Nieces did not give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in general were oblig’d to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit; nor did the Nieces go to any body’s House, but enjoy’d all the Honours of Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return their Visits. Indeed the Princesses Corsini are extraordinary civil and complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho’ the Pope has declar’d their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are vastly pleas’d with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.

Some Days ago an Englishman, one Thirems, who has been a long time in the Service of the Great Duke of Tuscany, and is very much attach’d to the Corsini Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that the Behaviour of the Corsini Ladies was very much applauded by the Nobility, but as much dislik’d by the Princes. ‘What! said the Pope, Do the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood, when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho’ I have declar’d my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.’

I would pardon the Roman Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy’d any solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the Sbirri to arrest them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great, and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword, because the greatest Part of the Roman Gentry are so much degenerated from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their Fondness for Rome, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their Inferiors in Birth.

Nor do the Roman Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some no less than two dozen; but they live very

meanly, so that not one of them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them; for as soon as the Angelus has sounded, all Ceremonies at Rome are over, the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all Compliments at meeting are set aside.

The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what they call Lucky Handsel; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the Month of August, which is what they call la Ferra Gusta, and again when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for Money.

The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them, who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp’d to give their Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp’d at the very same Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain English Dutchess, who having travell’d in that manner at Rome, would fain have introduced the Fashion at Paris too; but she was forbid to make that Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad

with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.

Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches, but seldom make use of them. The Marquis Sudarini, who has lately match’d his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for which he gave 7000 Roman Crowns, and there are many others that cost more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and ’tis as much as a Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are generally accompany’d by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who, with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen. Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much as attain to the Honour of being a Valet de Chambre. When he is past his Service his Master jubilées him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay, and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number, what matters it, say they, how they look?

This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens; they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for Sundays and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often borrow’d of a Tallyman,

shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn’d up behind his Ears, and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon’d indecent here to see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon’d Prostitutes are always attended with a Matron.

The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform’d here with very great Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw the Funerals of Cardinal Buoncompagno, Archbishop of Bologna, and the Prince Ruspoli. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to the Church of St. Andrew de Laval, which was hung all over with Black. Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave of the Church, dress’d in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn’d towards the Choir, and the Cardinal’s Hat at the Feet: Four Valets de Chambre stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas’d: There were an hundred great Tapers or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When the Cardinals enter’d the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of the Deceased, where they said a Pater, and the Prayer Absolve Domine, &c. and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the Corpse: The Cardinals retir’d after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos’d till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos’d in another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince Ruspoli’s Corpse was expos’d in the Church

of St. Laurence Lucini, which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal de Buoncompagno was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased’s Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the Italians say, ’tis barbarous to oblige Relations to attend each other’s Funerals, as is the Fashion with us.

But tho’ they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman’s Mourning is black from Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have, which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown Complexion. The Pope’s Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their nearest Relations; for the Romans reckon it so great a Happiness for a Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the Kindred of a Pope.

They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes sooner. ’Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches, whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow’d is always done with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn’d throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play’d off in the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the Expence of the Parishioners. The Romans have a singular Taste for all Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere Cockneys as the Parisians,

and every little Novelty makes them run to it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho’ all that they see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover’d with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There’s scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of these Fireworks.

The Tribunal of the Rota is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals, the chief Tribunal in Rome, if not of the whole World; for its Authority extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See. It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; viz. one German, one French, two Spaniards, one Bolognese, one Ferrarese, one Venetian, one Tuscan, one Milanese, and three Romans. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides. Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are made to the Tribunal of the Rota.

The Governor of Rome is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop in partibus; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals, and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown’d Heads[15]; tho’ I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern Officers; and the Provost, who is call’d the

Barrigello, with 300 Sergeants, or Sbirri. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards, who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of Gold Colour: The Governor of Rome, and the other Prelates, as the Major Domo, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of the condemn’d Malefactors; and he must never be absent from Rome: One of the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits it but to be made a Cardinal.

Another Magistrate of Note at Rome is the Senator: The Romans pretend that he represents the ancient Senate of Rome; if so, ’tis but a poor Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of Rome. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil, styl’d Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant Criminal, or Fiscal, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise between the Citizens and Inhabitants of Rome: For this End he has also under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress’d in a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin’d

with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope’s Chapel, and goes, like the Governor of Rome, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the Cardinal Nephew of what has pass’d at his Bar; he is then dress’d in a long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.

Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two Sorts of Punishments here, viz. the Strappa Corda, and the Gibbet. The first, tho’ ’tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death itself; the Malefactor being ty’d with his two Hands together to a Rope, by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is to be hang’d, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates, Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler, Where is such a one? naming the Criminal that is to be condemn’d. Here he is, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. Open the Doors to us, say the Comforters; he is in a bad State there, we will remove him to a Place where he shall be better. The Turnkey opens the Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along with them; and being guarded by a Company of the Sbirri, they put him

in the middle, and carry him thro’ several Galleries and Turnings towards the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his Name, says to him, You—there is your Sentence; and at the same time throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very Moment the Sbirri withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him, If he is willing to confess: If he says, Yes, as very few Italians die willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him the best Advice that he can.

The Italians generally make their Exit like good Christians, but ’tis with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn’d to die some Years ago for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon Sodom, would not hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal Banchieri, at that time only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of God to pardon his Sins; What! said the Criminal to him, Would you have me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don’t know, said the Cardinal, of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit such a Crime; but if there are, they don’t plead guilty in the Face of Justice. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. True, reply’d the Convict, but they are not all hang’d.

After a Criminal has confess’d, he receives the Sacraments, and the Comforters continue with him

till the next Day. At Ten o’Clock, which is the Hour of Execution, he is convey’d in a Cart to the Gallows, to which he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his Pain. After he is expir’d, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even in the Pope’s Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury’d like another Man.

You’ll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to write, so that I hope you won’t take it ill that I add no more to this. I am, &c.

LETTER XXXIV.

SIR,Rome, October 10, 1731.

This being in all Appearance the last Letter I shall write to you from Rome, I shall now give you the best Answer I can to the Questions you put to me in your last.

You desire, Sir, that I should give you a faithful Character of the Holy Father; but do you consider well what it is you require? Is it likely that such a private Man as I, who only see the Pope thro’ a Perspective in all his Glory and Grandeur, shou’d be able to paint him? No, Sir, the Successors of St. Peter are not like other Princes: None but such of their Domestics as are their most intire Confidents can know them thoroughly; and these, either out of their Zeal or Policy, paint them always, if not as they are, at least as they ought to be. You will tell me, that in all Courts ’tis the same Case; and that, notwithstanding this, one may judge of Princes by their Actions. ’Tis very true, yet this gives us but an imperfect Idea of Princes, who often do Good or Harm without meaning either.

To judge by outward Appearances, Clement XII. may be rank’d among the greatest Popes that ever the Church had: He had always, even before he was Pope, the Reputation of an honest Man, and all his Pride is to merit that Character: He is rigid; and, if I may venture to say it, sometimes blunt in his Answers: His earnest Application to the retrieving of the Finances, which were very much disorder’d by the Ministers of Benedict XIII. renders him an Œconomist, perhaps more than suits with his Dignity: He has the Interests of the Holy See very much at heart; but is accus’d of being more troubled for the Loss of the Duchy of Parma, (which they give out here was devolv’d to the Holy See by the death of the Duke Francis Farnese) than for the Disturbances owing to the Affair of the Constitution in France: He is a great Admirer of Persons of Quality, but he does them little good: His good Husbandry extends even to his Nephews, whom he has loaded with Honours and Titles; but he has hitherto given them

very little Money. When he was a Cardinal, his House was open to every body; he liv’d magnificently, and it was expected he would rather be a prodigal Pope, than a saving one: He was civil and affable, but not very ready to do Services; for if he made his Friends welcome, he thought that was enough; Business was what took up little of his Time, and he bent his Thoughts more to noble Living than to Affairs of State. And the Romans, who had other Reasons not to be pleas’d with his Election, said he rose to the Pontificate from a Game at Picquet.

Since he is become a Pope, he is quite another sort of a Man: He is desirous to know every thing that passes, and is fond of being his own Minister. But ’tis his Misfortune, that his Memory begins to fail him, and he is almost blind; besides which, as he never was employ’d in State Affairs, he knows them not so much by Experience as Theory: Yet for all this it were to be wish’d, for the sake of the Ecclesiastical State, that he had been chose Pope in the place of Benedict XIII. But ’tis the Unhappiness of this Country, that its Princes are commonly more harass’d with their bodily Infirmities, than with the Cares of Government: ’Tis pity that the Pope is so old; for he has the very Qualities that constitute a great Prince. Notwithstanding his great Age, he has had the good Luck to make ten Cardinals, tho’ he has not been sixteen Months in the Pontificate; but his last Promotion of five Cardinals was not generally approv’d of. Among other coarse Pasquinades that were utter’d upon that Occasion, this Inscription was affix’d to several Gates of the Pontifical Palace, Nostro Signora fa una bella Promotione, quatro Matti, ed un Minchione, i. e. Our Lord, has made a fine Promotion, four Madmen and one Fool. Those five Cardinals were Signior Guadagno, the Pope’s Nephew,