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THE
MEMOIRS
OF
CHARLES-LEWIS,
Baron de Pollnitz.

BEING
The OBSERVATIONS He made in his
late Travels from Prussia, through
POLAND,
GERMANY,
ITALY,
FRANCE,
SPAIN,
FLANDERS,
HOLLAND,
ENGLAND, &c.

Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE
of the Chief Cities and Towns;
BUT
The CHARACTERS of the Principal Persons at the Several COURTS.

VOL. IV.

LONDON:

Printed for Daniel Browne, at the Black Swan, without Temple-Bar;
and John Brindley, at the King’s-Arms, in New Bond-street.

M. dcc. xxxviii.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

MEMOIR[1]
APPENDIX[301]
INDEX[356]

MEMOIRS

OF THE
Baron De Pollnitz.
VOL. IV.

To Madame De ——.

The Conduct of the Court of Spain, tho’ it really made the Court of Vienna uneasy, did not hinder the Emperor from carrying on the War against the Turks with Vigour: And Heaven so prosper’d the Imperial Arms, that in 1718 Prince Eugene gain’d the most signal Victory near Belgrade that the Christians could have hop’d for. Soon after that Battle the victorious Troops reduc’d Belgrade, and at length the Turks were forc’d to sue for a Peace: While every Thing seem’d to have a Tendency that way, Spain put to Sea the most formidable Fleet she had ever equipp’d since that unfortunate one call’d, The Invincible Armado;

and sent it to the Coast of Sicily, where it put a numerous Army on Shore, under Command of the Marquis de Lede. The Count de Maffei Viceroy of the Kingdom for the Duke of Savoy, who was King of Sicily, made all the Resistance possible, considering the Weakness of his Army; and tho’ not able to save the Island, yet he made such a Defence as hinder’d the Spanish Army from pushing its Conquests farther by giving Time to Admiral Bing, who commanded the English Fleet, to enter the Mediterranean, and execute the Orders he had to attack the Spanish Fleet. These Orders imported, that he was to act in a friendly manners in case that Spain desisted from its Enterprizes against the Neutrality of Italy; but otherwise to make a vigorous Resistance. Admiral Bing communicated these Orders to Cardinal Alberoni, who answer’d him gravely, That he had nothing to do but to put them in Execution. The Admiral did so with a Vengeance; for on the 11th of August he gave Battle to the Spanish Fleet, and intirely defeated it. As soon as the Duke Regent was inform’d of the News, he sent away a Courier to the French Ambassador at Madrid, with Letters from the Earl of Stairs to the English Ambassador Earl Stanhope. The Design of his Royal Highness was to engage the latter to return to Madrid, from whence he set out on the 27th of August, that he might make fresh Instances there for a Peace with Cardinal Alberoni, who to be sure was a little stunn’d at this Reverse of Fortune. But the Earl, whether he did not meet the Courier, or whether he did not think it proper to return to Spain, arriv’d at Paris on the 9th of September.

Mean Time the War betwixt the Emperor and the Turks was at an End, and Orders were actually given for sending the Imperial Troops into Italy. The Regent despairing at that Time of persuading the King of Spain to a Peace, order’d the Abbat du Bois, the French Ambassador at London, to sign the Treaty commonly call’d The Quadruple Alliance, in Conjunction with the Ambassadors of England and the Emperor. He also repeated his Orders to the Duke of St. Aignan, to try all the means imaginable to prevail on the King of Spain to accede to the Terms that were propos’d to him by the Quadruple Alliance; but his Catholic Majesty persisted so long in his Refusal, that his Royal Highness resolv’d to declare War against him, and the Duke of St. Aignan had Orders to demand his Audience of Leave.

At that Time the Regent happily discover’d a Conspiracy that was form’d against him in the very Heart of the Kingdom. The King of England had before appriz’d him, that there was some Contrivance on Foot; but the Names of the Conspirators, and what they were to do, was a Secret. Mean time the Regent suspecting that all these Intrigues were only fomented by the Minister of Spain, he caus’d the Prince de la Cellamare, Ambassador from that Crown, to be so narrowly watch’d that he was soon let into the Secret of the whole Intrigue carrying on against him, which was in short no less than to remove him from the Regency. The Spanish Minister for the better Success had caus’d a Body of Troops to be assembled in France, where they stroll’d about like Fellows that dealt in unlicens’d Salt, and other Contraband Goods; but upon a particular Day they were to enter Paris, invest the

Royal Palace, and to secure the Person of the Regent. The Conspiracy was detected almost at the same Instant that it was to have been executed; and of this the Prince de Cellamare himself was partly the Cause; not that I suspect him of having betray’d the Spanish Minister, but probably he was too credulous of every one that came to him; for I was told, that the Pacquet containing the whole Mystery of the Conspiracy, and the Names of the Conspirators, was put into the Hands of the Abbat Portocarrero, in Presence of a Couple of Domesticks, whose infidelity was not perhaps Proof against the Lewidors of the Royal Palace. Besides, this Abbat, tho’ a Person of Merit, had not perhaps Experience or Wisdom enough to behave as was absolutely necessary in so ticklish an Affair. Be this as it will, he set out for Madrid with such Dispatches committed to his Care as contain’d the Fortunes of a great Number of People. He had not travell’d far, when, as he was passing a Ford, his Chaise broke, and he had like to have been drown’d; but notwithstanding the Danger of his Person, he seem’d to be more in Pain for his Trunk than for his Life. This Earnestness for the Preservation of his Trunk gave a Suspicion to those who attended him; and the Spies whom the Regent had planted upon him, advertis’d that Prince of it time enough for him to give his Orders to the Commandant of Poictiers to cause him to be arrested, and his Trunk to be secur’d. The Abbat was accordingly arrested[1], and brought back to Paris. The Prince de Cellamare, being inform’d of what had pass’d, claim’d the Trunk, saying it contain’d the Memoirs of

his Embassy: He was given to understand, that his Word was not to be taken, and the Trunk being open’d at the Royal Palace, there was all the Scheme of the Conspiracy, and the List of the Persons that were enter’d into it. The Thing that gave the Regent most Vexation was, to see the Names of Persons there, upon whom he had heap’d his Favours. His Royal Highness acted in this delicate Conjuncture with all the Moderation possible, and his Behaviour was in every Respect so discreet, that it was hardly discernible that any Thing extraordinary was passing in France; he caus’d the Abbat Portocarrero to be releas’d, as an insignificant Tool; but as to the Prince de Cellamare, he was invited to a Conference at the Royal Palace, to which he no sooner arriv’d, but Messengers were sent to clap a Seal on his Effects. The Ministers went with him afterwards to his own House, where he was surpriz’d to find a Guard that was charg’d to be answerable for his Person. Some Days after this, all his Papers were examin’d, and Three Boxes were fill’d with them in his Presence, which were seal’d and carry’d to the Louvre, there to be kept till the King of Spain sent Persons that he could confide in to fetch them. At length on the 13th of December, the Prince de Cellamare set out from Paris with a Guard: As for the Smugglers, they vanish’d as soon as the Conspiracy was brought to Light: All this pass’d in the Month of December, 1718.

The 29th of the same Month the Duke and Duchess of Maine were arrested: The Duke had been the Day before to pay a Visit to the Duchess of Orleans at the Royal Palace, and stay’d there Three Hours, after which he return’d to lye at

Seaux; where next Morning a Lieutenant of the Guards came and told him, that he had Orders to carry him under a strong Guard to the Castle of Dourlens. The same Day at Seven in the Morning, the Marquis D’Ancenis, who was Captain of the Guards after the Death of his Father the Duke of Charost, during whose Life he had the Post in Reversion, had an Order to arrest the Duchess of Maine: This Officer had supp’d but the Night before with the Princess, and stayed with her very late; guess then how he must be surpriz’d when he came Home, and found the Letter de Cachet or Warrant, which put him upon an Office that he would have been glad to be excused from serving; but the Order must be obeyed, and therefore he went next Day to the Princess’s Apartment, who was then in Bed, as were also her Ladies; so that the Servants were very much startled to see M. D’Ancenis there again so early, and scrupled at first to awake the Duchess; but, as they imagined the Marquis was come about an Affair of great Consequence, the Ladies let him in: The Princess, being wak’d out of her Sleep by the Noise of the Door, as it open’d, ask’d, Who was there? M. D’Ancenis having told her his Name, she said to him hastily, Oh! my God! What have I done to you, that you should disturb me so soon in the Morning? He then told her the melancholy Commission that he was sent upon. They say, her Ladyship was much more provok’d at this Disgrace than the Duke her Husband; and she could not help dropping some Words which shew’d plain enough that she was impatient under her Misfortune. However, she was quickly dress’d, and getting into a Coach with Three of her Waiting-Women, she was

conducted to the Castle of Dijon: All her chief Domestics were committed, some to the Bastille, and others to Vincennes. The Prince of Dombes and the Count de Eu were banish’d to Eu, where they had so much Liberty however, that this Change of Fortune had not altogether the Air of Disgrace. As for Maidemoiselle de Maine, the Princess of Conty took her Home with her. The Cardinal de Polignac, who was very much attach’d to the Family of Maine, also shar’d their Fate; for he was banish’d to his Abbey of Anchin, and had but Two Hours allow’d him to set his Affairs in Order.

While these Things pass’d in France, the King of Spain, or rather his Minister, caus’d the Duke of St. Aignan, the Ambassador of France, to be very ill treated, who having taken Leave of the King and Queen, stay’d some Days longer to settle his domestic Affairs, perhaps also to see what Turn Things would take, in case the King of Spain, who was then dangerously ill, should die. I am assur’d that the King having told him, that by his Will he left the Regency to the Queen and Cardinal Alberoni, the Ambassador made Answer, That his Testamentary Settlement might probably be of as little Effect as Lewis XIV’s was. This Answer displeas’d the Cardinal, who thought of nothing but of being reveng’d; and indeed some time after, the Marquis de Grimaldo, Secretary of State, went to the Duke of St. Aignan, and signify’d an Order to him from the King, to leave Madrid in Twenty-four Hours, and the Kingdom in Twelve Days. ’Twas 10 o’Clock at Night when this Order was notify’d, and next Day, viz. the 14th of December, at 7 o’Clock in the Morning, the Ambassador’s House was surrounded by

a Party of Life-Guards, commanded by an Exempt, who having plac’d Centinels at all the Doors of his Lodging, enter’d the Duke’s Apartment, who was still a-bed with his Duchess, made them dress themselves with all Speed, and then conducted them out of the City.

Cardinal Alberoni, who did not yet know, that the Plot he had laid was discover’d, wrote with Speed to the Prince of Cellamare, that he might guess what to expect after the Treatment that had been shewn to the Ambassador of France; tho’ he told him, that ought not to be a Reason for using him in the same manner, and that the Duke de St. Aignan’s Misbehaviour had made it necessary to take that Course with him. He exhorted him not to stir from Paris, till he was compell’d to it by Force, nor even then, till he had made all the convenient Protests. He said to him in the Conclusion, Put the Case that your Excellency be oblig’d to go, you will first set Fire to all your Mines. Little did he think how terribly they were at that Time countermin’d!

This Letter, which was a farther Confirmation of the Prince de Cellamare’s Conspiracy, and the Affront put upon the Ambassador of the most Christian King, intirely convinc’d the Regent, that the Spanish Minister was resolv’d to go all Lengths. War was declar’d on both Sides, in which Spain did not come off with Honour. I shall have further Occasion to speak of it to you some Time hereafter.

I am next to give you an Account, how it far’d with myself at this Time: Tho’ I had no Hand in this Plot, yet I was shrewdly suspected; for several Conferences were held at my House: I was intimate with those who were deepest in the Secret, and in Fine, whether it proceeded

from Prudence, or from a Panic, I resolv’d to take Care of myself. I set out from Paris in a very great Hurry, with a Design to repair to the Palatine Court, and stay there till the Storm was quite over. I went to Germany thro’ Lorrain, but had much ado to get thither, because I had no Passport, and Orders were arriv’d from Court, to stop all that travell’d without one; I therefore thought of the following Stratagem.

About a League from Toul, which is the last Place in France, I feign’d myself sick, that I might have some colour for halting there, and dismissing my Postilion. At that Village I lay all Night, and rising very early next Morning, I told my Landlady that I would go to Toul on Foot, and desir’d her to send my Boots according to a Direction I left with her. My Design was to go into Toul as a Townsman; for I hop’d, that my being on Foot, and not having the Air of a Traveller, I should pass without Molestation; but I was quite mistaken; for the Guard stopp’d me, and ask’d me, Who I was, and, Wither I was bound? I said, That I was a German, that I had been the Valet de Chambre of a German Nobleman, who dy’d at Paris, and that I was returning from thence Homewards. The Officer carry’d me before the King’s Lieutenant, who, I thought, was a mere Brute; yet I think I should be in the Wrong to complain, for I gave myself out for a Footman, and really as such he treated me: He put several Questions to me, which I always made Answer to like a most submissive Lackey, in Hopes of soothing his sullen Humour; but nothing could defend me from his Reproaches: You are not a Footman, said he, I rather believe

you are some Bankrupt; therefore tell me the Truth, or I’ll instantly throw you into a Dungeon. I still affirm’d, that I was a Footman; but the Lieutenant, not well pleas’d with my Answer, committed me to the Guard-House, where he left me Five or Six Hours, and then sent me Word, that I might go to an Inn: I was conducted thither by a Soldier, who was always a Guard upon me, and next Day carry’d me again before the King’s Lieutenant, who took me into his Closet, and told me, ’Twas to no Purpose for me to think of concealing myself any longer from him; for that he was just inform’d who I was, by a Person who knew me. I own, Madame, that I began to be afraid, yet I stood to my Text still, with all the Assurance that could be. He then call’d one of his Domestics, and bid him fetch the Man that knew me; but ’twas well for me, that this Person had no Existence but in his Imagine. Mean Time he seem’d to be out of Patience that he did not come; and at last told me, that I must return to the Guard-House, and not stir from thence till I had fully satisfy’d him who and what I was. Then I happen’d to hit upon an Expedient which prov’d a lucky one; I told him, That I was very willing to remain in Custody till I had receiv’d an Answer from the Landlady of the Inn where my Master dy’d, who would make good what I had affirm’d. Upon this he order’d Paper to be given me; and I wrote in short to my Landlady at Paris, by the Name of a Valet de Chambre, whom I left there when I came away. As she was a Woman of quick Apprehension, and knew my Hand-Writing, I persuaded myself that she would easily comprehend the Meaning of it. When my Letter was finish’d, I shew’d it

to the King’s Lieutenant, who read it, and told me, That he would undertake both for its Delivery, and an Answer to it. In the mean Time he remanded me back to my Inn, and in Two Hours after, sent to tell me, that I might pursue my Journey. You will naturally imagine, that I took him at the first Word. I accordingly walk’d out of Toul on Foot, but I hir’d a Horse at a Village belonging to the Principality of Elbœuf, and went to Nancy, where I had the Precaution to provide myself with a Passport, which the Innkeeper, where I lay, procur’d me, by the Name of a certain Merchant of that City. I did not think fit to go to Strasbourg, where perhaps I might have been known; but went to Haguenau; from thence to Fort Louis, where I pass’d the Rhine; and at last arriv’d at Heidelberg in the Beginning of the Year 1719.

The Palatine Court resided at Heidelberg[2], but ’twas not the same Elector that I had the Honour to mention to you before, for he was dead, and was succeeded by his Brother Prince Charles, who kept a numerous and magnificent Court, and was the Darling of all his Family. He was so good to his Domestics, that there are few such to be found among Princes; and yet without debasing his Rank, of which he understood every Part of its Dignity, and perfectly knew how to have the Respect paid that was due to him: Being withal generous, good-natur’d, affable and charitable; he lov’d People should speak to him with Freedom. He was very regular in his Conduct, even to a Degree of Devotion, yet in no respect an Enemy to Pleasures;

on the contrary, he often procured them for his Court; and he was especially fond of Dancing, which he perform’d indeed too well for a Prince.

The Elector has had Two Wives, but he has had only one Child, a Daughter, marry’d to the Hereditary Prince of Sultzbach, who is the Elector’s presumptive Heir. She is a very lovely Princess, tho’ somewhat pitted with the Small Pox; she is not tall, but perfectly well-shap’d; she is complete Mistress of every Thing which young Princesses are usually taught; she dances and sings with a very good Grace, and especially the Italian Airs, which she plays at the same time to Perfection upon the Harpsichord. The Prince her Husband was a clever handsome Man, and his Outside was a sufficient Indication of his Endowments: He had so grave an Air, that one would be apt to suspect him of a little Austerity, yet this did not render him a whit the less polite; and, above all Things, he was very civil to Foreigners. He shew’d an extraordinary Respect to the Elector, who, on his Part, gave him all the possible Marks of a Tenderness for him. This young Prince had a Son by this Marriage, who dwelt at Neubourg, where he had been brought up; it being apprehended that the Fatigues of Travelling would be hurtful to his Health, but, notwithstanding this Precaution, the young Prince dy’d in 1724.

The Elector was a very early Riser; as soon as he was up, he spent some Time in Prayer; then the Great Chamberlain or Grand Master of the Wardrobe talk’d to him about Affairs of State, or such as were Domestic; when those Gentlemen were retir’d, the Prince employed himself in reading Dispatches, or in Writing; after which he dress’d himself: About 11 o’Clock

he went to Mass, accompany’d by the Prince his Son-in-Law, and the Princess his Daughter: When he held a Council there, ’twas after Mass was over: Upon other Days he play’d at Billiards till Dinner-time, which held a long while, and sometimes a little too much was drank at it; which indeed they could not well help, the Wine there was so delicious. After Dinner was over, his Electoral Highness went with the Princess his Daughter to her Apartment, where he stay’d a little while, and then retir’d to his own, where he caus’d himself to be undress’d, and went to Bed for a few Hours. About 5 or 6 o’Clock in the Evening he was dress’d, after which he gave public Audiences, or else apply’d himself to something in his Study. At 7 o’Clock he went into the Assembly Room, where he found the Princess and the whole Court; and after having chatted some Time, he sate down to Picquet, or to a Pair of Tables; but when the Game was over, he retired, and the Princess went to Supper.

In the Afternoon, when the Elector was withdrawn, the Princess went into her Lady of Honour’s Apartment, where there was always a great Assembly, and often a Concert, in which the Princess sung some Italian Song or other, together with Signora Claudia, one of her Waiting-Women. This little Concert was made up also of some Musicians selected out of the Elector’s Band, and is one of the completest that I ever heard. The Prince of Sultzbach assisted at it sometimes; but he most commonly retir’d to his Apartment at the same Time that the Elector did to his.

As these Two Princes shew’d me great Marks of their Goodness, the Courtiers too, in Imitation of their Masters, were mighty civil to me: I

was invited to the best Houses, and treated every Day with grand Feasts, and fresh Parties of Pleasure; and in a Word I pass’d the little Time I stay’d at Heidelberg very pleasantly. I was so charm’d with that Court, that I had a great Mind to put in for some Employment there; and for that end I engag’d some Persons, who I thought could do me most Service; but notwithstanding the Courtiers seem’d so fond of me, I found a Cabal in my Way, which was powerful enough to hinder me from obtaining my Wish. These were, to my Misfortune, Persons of very good Credit, who did not care to see any body in Place, but such, as they knew, would truckle to them. The Great Chamberlain, to whom I plainly saw I was not acceptable, was one of those who made the greatest Opposition to my Advancement. ’Tis true, that I drew his Resentment upon me by my own Rashness and Folly: For one Day, as I was attending the Elector from the Princess’s Apartment to his own, I went into a Room which, according to the Custom of the Court, no body was permitted to enter, except the Great Chamberlain; but this was more than I then knew, and therefore I went boldly into the Room, when a Harbinger of the Court came, and, with a very impertinent Air, bad me turn out——I ask’d him, Whether he had his Order for saying so from the Elector? He said, No; but from the Great Chamberlain: I then made him an Answer in a Style that surpriz’d him, and bad him tell the Grand Chamberlain something that I knew he would not be pleas’d with: At the same time I talk’d both against the Chamberlain and his Emissary in such a manner as gave Vent to my Spleen, but excluded me from the Service of one of the best

Princes in the World. I took Leave afterwards of the Elector, who bad me Farewel, made me a considerable Present, and moreover gave me Letters of Recommendation to Vienna, where I intended to solicit some Employment.

I shall now give you a brief Account of the City and Castle of Heidelberg: The City stands on the Banks of the Neckar, with high Mountains on each Side, and only a narrow Passage between them, from which however there’s a Prospect of the noblest Plain in Germany. In this City there was formerly a famous University, founded by Rupert the Ruddy, Count Palatine and Duke of Bavaria in 1346. Here was to be seen one of the finest Libraries in Europe, but General Tilly carry’d it off in 1622, and sent it to Rome, where it makes a considerable Part of the Vatican Library. Lewis the Dauphin of France, Grandfather of Lewis XV. made himself Master of Heidelberg by a Capitulation in 1698. nevertheless, all manner of Disorders were committed in it; a Part of the Electoral Palace was blown up, the City was burnt, and the very Corpses of the Electors, which were in the Coffins with the Ornaments of their Dignity, were dragg’d out of their Graves into the Square: And the French would undoubtedly have committed greater Cruelties, if the Army of the Empire had not advanc’d towards Heidelberg, of which the Germans made themselves Masters; and the Governor was prosecuted for Treachery, and sentenc’d to have his Choice, Whether to die by the Sword, or to have his Coat of Arms defac’d, his Sword broke, to be kick’d by the Hangman, and turn’d out of the Army with his Life: But he was so mean-spirited, as to prefer Infamy to

Death, and retir’d to Hildesheim, where he has the Misfortune to be still living.

Some Time after this, the Marshal de Lorge attack’d Heidelberg, but he could not master it, tho’ the Place was defenceless. A Song was made upon him, the Burden of which was, He would have taken Heidelberg, if he had found the Door open. There’s no Sign now that Heidelberg was ever ruin’d; ’tis well rebuilt; and if the present Elector had continued his Residence in it, would have been one of the finest Towns in Germany; but ’twas owing to the Protestants, that the Elector remov’d to Manheim. What gave Occasion to it was this: The Protestants of Heidelberg and the Catholics have one Church between them, where the Nave of it belongs to the Protestants, and the Choir to the Catholics. When the present Elector had fix’d his Residence at Heidelberg, he desir’d that this Church, in which the Electors are interr’d, might be intirely Catholic; and for this end he made a Proposal to the Protestants, to give up the Nave, and engag’d that another Church should be built for them. The Inhabitants were very willing to consent to it, but the Ministers oppos’d it, and represented to the Citizens, that ’twas of dangerous Consequence to resign that Church, which was included in the Treaty of Westphalia, and in all the Treaties that had been made with the Princes of Neubourgh, on their Accession to the Electorate; that, after such a Resignation was once made, they could no longer expect the Protection of the Powers of their own Communion; and finally, that even the new Church, which was promis’d to be built for them, might with very great Ease be taken from them. The Elector having declar’d that he would be obey’d, the

Ministers apply’d to the Protestant Body at the Dyet of the Empire. The Affair made a great Noise; and the Elector threatened the Inhabitants to abandon them; but they did not seem to be much concern’d at it, because they imagin’d, that if the Court went, the Regency and the Courts of Justice would remain with them, as they did in the Time of the late Elector. Nevertheless they were out in their Calculation, and the Elector, justly incens’d at the Disrespect of his Subjects, abandon’d them, and transfer’d his Court and all the Tribunals to Manheim; so that the Citizens, whose sole Dependance was on the Court, or the Officers of those Tribunals, are now very poor. They were quickly sensible of the Error they had committed, and went and threw themselves at the Elector’s Feet; but the Prince gave no Ear to them, and has caus’d the City and Castle of Manheim to be rebuilt.

The Castle of Heidelberg to this Day shews the Marks of the Disorder committed there by the French; for there’s a great Part of it in Ruins; and out of Four considerable Mansions, of which it consisted, there was only one that was not damag’d. That which remains of the Palace is in a Stile of Architecture, which I should be at a Loss to explain; ’tis neither Gothic nor Modern, but a Rhapsody of all the Orders heap’d one upon another, without Fancy or Judgment; as if the Architect who conducted the Work, had only design’d a Building of great Expence, without troubling himself whether it was done well or ill. This Palace stands upon a very high Hill, with a magnificent Terrass towards the Town, from whence there’s a Prospect of the Plain and of the Country too for several Leagues. The Inside of the Palace is scarce more regular than the Outside.

The Elector’s Apartment consists of a long Suite of Rooms, without Beauty or Proportion. Nor is there any thing agreeable in the whole but its Situation, which is owing to the Prospect that it commands. The other Apartments are very small, and of pretty difficult Access, because of a great many little Steps that lead up and down to them.

In the Vaults of this Palace there’s the Tun, so famous for its enormous Size; ’tis said to contain 26,250 Gallons Paris Measure. The Electors have had frequent Carousals on the Platform which is over it. I own to you, that I can’t comprehend what Pleasure there can be in Tippling-Bouts of this Kind, at a Place where one cannot be at Ease; since a Man need not be very tall, for his Head to touch the Roof of the Vault, which besides is very dark.

As I was preparing to set out for Vienna where I intended, as I said, to sollicit Employment, I receiv’d a Letter from Paris, with Advice that the Storm I so much dreaded was dispers’d, and that all my Fears were ill grounded, the Regent having no manner of Suspicion of me, but on the contrary, more inclin’d than ever to shew me the Effects of his Protection; thereupon I was earnestly exhorted to return to Paris, which Advice coming from a good Hand, I made no Scruple to comply with it.

At my Arrival there I went to the Royal Palace as before: The Regent gave me a very good Reception, and Madame made me so welcome, that it confirm’d my Hopes, that I should at length obtain something at the Court of France. I found People very much divided about the War which had been just declar’d

against Spain: The French were indeed for a War, but they were sorry to make it against a Prince who was born among them, and for whose Establishment they had expended so many Millions, and so much Blood. The Regent was even at a Loss to find any one to command the Army, because several had excus’d themselves. Only the Marshal de Berwic, the Natural Son of James II. King of England, prefer’d the Service of the Regency to the old Obligations he had to the King of Spain. His Catholic Majesty, whose Forces this Duke had commanded, had heap’d Favours upon him; he had not only made him and his Son Grandees of Spain, but had moreover granted to both of ’em the Golden Fleece, and the Duchy of Liria for his Son and his Posterity. Nevertheless, he accepted of the Command with Pleasure, and set out for Spain.

The Regent having engag’d the Prince of Conti to take upon him the Command of the Cavalry, order’d him 100,000 Crowns for his Equipage, and granted him 60,000 Livres a Month to keep an open Table; besides which, his Horses were to be kept at the King’s Expence. When his Royal Highness had appointed these Two Generals, he was not very much at a Loss for subaltern Officers: To encourage them to serve with the more Zeal, there was a great Promotion, consisting of 6 Lieutenant-Generals, 72 Major-Generals, and 196 Brigadiers. The Regent also gave Pensions to above Threescore Officers, who repair’d to the Marshal de Berwic in Navarre, where the Campaign was open’d by the Siege of Fontarabia. At the same Time the Regent caus’d a Manifesto to be publish’d, which was couch’d in Terms full of Regard to the King of Spain, Cardinal Alberoni

being reproach’d for every Thing that was blameworthy in that Prince’s Conduct; and accus’d of being the Author of the War between the Two Crowns, and of having hinder’d the King his Master from accepting the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance, a Treaty which had not been concluded, said the Regent, but for the Welfare of Europe, and particularly of France and Spain. His Royal Highness protested, that the War was only made to induce the King of Spain to a Peace; and affirm’d, That France did not mean to make any Conquest upon his Dominions; and that if she was compell’d to do it, she should be always ready to restore such Conquests at the Peace.

Cardinal Alberoni dispers’d several Pieces in the Name of his Master, by which he invited the French Soldiers to take the Part of his Catholic Majesty; and to succeed the better in this Design, he engag’d the King of Spain to head his Army, hoping, that upon his very first Appearance, one Half of the Army of France would desert to his Standard. The Cardinal being full of Notions so chimerical and so injurious to Officers and Troops, as incapable of Cowardice as of Treachery; he oblig’d the Chevalier de S—— who had been a Colonel in France, but by Misfortunes was forc’d to go to Spain, to write to some of the chief Commanders, and solicit them to come over with their Regiments to the Spanish Service. The Chevalier, who built Hopes of a considerable Fortune upon the Success of this Project, wrote to the Lieutenant-Colonel of Normandy, and sent the Letter to him by an Officer, who was indeed a Gentleman, but at that Time committed an Action unworthy of that Character. This Officer came to the French Army, and gave the Letter to the Person it was

directed to, who carrying it to the Marshal de Berwic, he caus’d the unfortunate Courier to be arrested, and hang’d up in Two Hours after. The Cardinal was very much mortify’d by having miscarry’d in this Attempt, not considering that the same was impracticable, by reason the Fidelity of the French Officers was never to be corrupted; but it was not so at that Time with the Soldiers, of whom a great Number deserted to the Spanish Army. Persons of Credit, who at that Time saw Cardinal Alberoni in private, assur’d me, that Minister was so fully persuaded that whole Regiments at a Time would come over to the Spanish Service; that when he was told 50 or 100 Deserters, more or less, were newly come; What signifies that, said he? His Majesty wants to see Colours and Standards arrive, and not a Handful of Men. The Cardinal had a great many Fortune-hunters about him, who were continually telling him, that intire Battalions were just coming over; and by the Favour of such Predictions, which never came to any Thing, they got out of him what they wanted, for no other Consideration but a sorry improbable Scheme, and which tended even sometimes to deceive the Minister and betray him. One may guess at the Character of those Gentlemen by one F——, who had been a Reformado-Colonel in France, but being press’d hard by merciless Creditors, could find no other Means to escape from their ill Humour, than by taking Shelter under Cardinal Alberoni. This F—— was a terrible Rattle, and could rodomontade better than any body. The Minister made him a Brigadier, and withal gave him a Gratuity of 100 Pistoles; but our Spark not thinking this sufficient, wanted forsooth to be a Major-General, and teiz’d the

Cardinal for it to such a Degree, that to get rid of such an importunate Solicitor, his Eminency was oblig’d to promise him, that it should not be long before he should be prefer’d. My Gentleman had no Time to wait, and renew’d his Solicitations; but being put off, he was quite out of Patience, and at last declar’d, that he would serve no longer if he was not made a Major-General. His Eminence grew angry, so that F—— thought it was proper to submit, or at least to assume a submissive Air. Mean while he study’d Revenge, and imagin’d the only way to make his Fortune in France would be, to seize the Cardinal, and run away with him to the Regent. The Thing that remain’d to be consider’d was, what Methods he should take to succeed; and ’tis even said, that he had laid his Plot so well, that had it not been for the Treachery of one of the Conspirators who discover’d the whole Mystery, the same would have succeeded. The Cardinal caus’d F—— to be arrested, and sent Prisoner to Pampeluna, and from thence to the Castle of Segovia, where he was try’d, and would infallibly have been beheaded, but Cardinal Alberoni happen’d to be disgrac’d at the same Time, as I shall have the Honour to tell you anon.

While these Trifles pass’d in the Spanish Army, the French went on furiously to Action. Fontarabia was closely besieg’d, upon which the King and Queen made as if they would relieve it; but while they were consulting about it, the Marshal de Berwic oblig’d it to capitulate. This Conquest, tho’ to the Advantage of France, did not abate one Jot of that Aversion which the French had to the War. The People contributed to it not without Reluctance; nevertheless it was

the Regent’s Interest to continue it; and as he perceiv’d they were already so over-burden’d with Taxes, that ’twas in vain to think of creating new ones, he contriv’d new Methods to fill the Treasury. He obtain’d an Arret of Council for making a considerable Number of Bank Bills, those which had been made before having been soon snatch’d up. Then the Council pass’d another Arret, for diminishing the Value of the Species. The Bustle this Arret occasion’d at Paris is not to be imagin’d; every body was glad to part with their Cash, upon which they apprehended there would be a Loss, and they hurry’d to receive Paper in Exchange, upon the Promise which the Council had made, that the Value of the Bills should be fix’d, so as never to rise nor fall. Nevertheless, it was not long before the People seriously reflected upon the Invalidity of the Matter, into which their Gold and Silver was transform’d, and the Hurry to the Bank abated. But the Regent soon contriv’d a way to bring in the little Cash that remain’d in private Hands; for he caus’d an Arret of Council to pass, which forbad any one’s having more than 500 Livres about him, upon the Penalty of a great Fine. In Pursuance of this Arret, People began again to change their Species for Bank Bills, which were in Truth more commodious than Cash, because People might then carry the Value of several Millions about them, without sweating under the Load. This was a rare way to thrive, when a Man carry’d his whole Estate thus in his Pocket!

By this Means did the Duke Regent provide for the immense Charges of the War with Spain, which was carry’d on with Vigour; and soon after the taking of Fontarabia, the French Army

laid Siege to St. Sebastian, which held but Twenty-five Days, when both the Town and Castle surrender’d.

As long as the War continued with Success in Spain I never left soliciting at the Royal Palace, but always in vain. I spent most of my Time in the Regent’s Antichamber, and now-and-then went for Recreation to the House of Madame de R——, whom I have not had the Honour of mentioning to you for a good while, but my Passion was now grown cool, so that all those Visits were but a melancholy Relief in the Situation that I then stood in. My Friends made me reflect seriously on the small Hopes I ought to entertain of succeeding at the Court of France. The Abbe de Asfeld perceiving the Anxiety I was under, took the Advantage of it to drive me, as I may term it, from a Place where I lost my Time, and spent the little Money I had to no Purpose; therefore I left Paris once more, and travelled by the Way of Metz, to avoid the troublesome Questions of the King’s Lieutenant at Toul.

I pass’d thro’ St. Menehoult, which is a Town in Champagne, built in a Morass, between Two Eminencies. A little after I was there, it had the Misfortune to be burnt. I was told, that the Jews of Metz offer’d to rebuild it intirely, on condition they might be permitted to have a Synagogue there.

From St. Menehoult I went to Verdun, an Episcopal City, whose Bishops take the Titles of Counts of Verdun, and Princes of the Holy Empire. This Diocese makes Part of the Three Bishopricks yielded to France by Lorrain. The Cathedral is dedicated to our Lady. In this

Church there’s a Well, which is preserv’d there for a Supply of Water in case of Fire, because the Place being on a very high Ground, it would be difficult to bring Water to it.

From Verdun I went to Metz, where I made some Stay. This is a very large Town, at the Conflux of the Moselle and the Seille. It was heretofore the Capital of Austrasia, and afterwards reckon’d as an imperial City till 1552, that the Constable of Montmorency made a Conquest of it for Henry II. King of France. The Emperor Charles V. try’d in vain to retake it, when the Duke of Guise, who commanded in the Place, acquir’d great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig’d him to raise the Siege, at which the Emperor was so mortify’d, that he resign’d his Dominions, and retir’d to a Cloyster. Metz, Toul and Verdun were confirm’d to France in 1559, by the Treaty of Chateau-Cambresis, and this Cession was afterwards confirm’d by the Peace of Munster in 1648.

The Cathedral of Metz, which is dedicated to St. Stephen, is a Church of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece of Porphyry about 10 Foot in Length.

There is very good Company at Metz, and I should have been glad to have stay’d there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was here, M. de Saillant was the commanding Officer.

He liv’d with Splendor, and I commonly din’d with him, and supp’d with the Intendant of the Province, who was then M. de Celi of the Harlay Family, and was very much esteem’d.

When I set out from Metz, I struck into the Road for Germany, and went to Spires. This Town may be consider’d as a Monument of the Ravage of War, there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of the Houses burnt by the French, in the War they made for the Destruction of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which after ’twas ruin’d, was transfer’d to Wetzlar. Spires is the See of a Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop of Mentz.

I pass’d the Rhine at Spires, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a few Hours at Heidelberg, from whence I went to Stutgard, and so to Ulm.[3] This is one of the most considerable Cities in Germany, and has magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn’d with Fountains. Our Lady’s, which is the most considerable of all the Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City; but the Roman Catholics are allow’d the free Exercise of their Religion here. This City was formerly but a Village, which Charlemain granted to the Abbey of Reichenau. The Inhabitants of Ulm redeem’d their Liberty on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital of Swabia.

Ulm is very well fortify’d; it maintains a stout Garison, and its Ramparts are furnish’d with

good Cannon; nevertheless, the Elector of Bavaria took it with Ease in the Beginning of the late War, when that Prince declar’d for his Nephew the King of Spain, tho’ ’tis said, his Electoral Highness had a Correspondence at the same time in the Town. But the Battle of Hochstet help’d to restore it to its Liberty, and notwithstanding the Menaces of the Marshal de Villars, it receiv’d an Imperial Garison.

From Ulm I went to Augsbourg[4], a very ancient City, where a Roman Colony was planted by the Emperor Augustus, from whom it had the Latin Name Augusta. It has from time to time undergone several Revolutions: In 1518 Luther came hither to give a public Account of his Doctrine; and in 1530, Charles V. summon’d the Dyet of the Empire hither, which Dyet was famous for the noted Confession of Augsbourg, that the Protestants presented to the Emperor. In another Dyet held in 1548, the same Charles V. propos’d that Formulary call’d the Interim, with regard to the Communion in both Kinds, and the Marriage of Priests: This Formulary has done irreparable Injury to the Catholic Religion.

Augsbourg had a very great Share in the Civil Wars between our Ancestors, on account of Religion. During that Period, the Protestants seiz’d the City, and turn’d out the Bishop and Clergy; but Charles V. having retaken it, re-establish’d the Romish Religion in it, and alter’d the whole Government, which continued in that State till the Beginning of April 1552, when the Protestants took it again, and restor’d what the Emperor had destroy’d; and at length a Peace was concluded at Augsbourg; but the City did

not long enjoy the Sweets of it, and Violences were soon committed on both Sides. The famous Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, came to the Aid of the Protestants. He arriv’d at Augsbourg in 1632. The Inhabitants paid him extraordinary Honours, which was very provoking to the Catholic Princes, and to the Duke of Bavaria, who Two Years after punish’d them for it. This Prince having declared himself the Protector of the ancient Religion, besieg’d Augsbourg, and reduc’d the Citizens to such Extremity, that they eat Rats, Cats, and even human Flesh. It was settled at the Peace of Westphalia, that the Catholics and Lutherans should tolerate one another, which was afterwards punctually observ’d. Nevertheless, this City was again molested by the Elector of Bavaria in the last War, when he made himself Master of it, but his Troops abandon’d it immediately after the Battle of Hochstet. After the Peace of Westphalia, the Emperor Leopold summon’d the Dyet of the Empire to Augsbourg in 1690, and there he caus’d himself to be crown’d, and his Son Joseph to be elected King of the Romans.

The assembling of the Dyets, and the flourishing Trade at Augsbourg, have render’d it one of the most magnificent Cities in Germany. Its Squares are large, its Streets spacious, and its Fountains very beautiful. The Town-House is one of the finest Buildings that I have seen. ’Tis a vast square Edifice, well built of Free-Stone. The Porch is all of Marble. Almost all the Rooms are wainscotted and ceil’d with very fine Timber. There’s a Hall 110 Feet long, 58 broad, and 52 Feet in Height, the Pavement of which is Marble, and its Walls adorn’d with Paintings, intermix’d with Emblems and Devices

relating to the Government. The Ceiling, which exceeds all the rest for its Beauty, has Compartments, the Squares and Pannels whereof are inrich’d with Sculptures, very finely gilt, and full of beautiful Pictures and other Ornaments. The Cathedral is large and spacious, with a most remarkable great Gate, all of Brass, over which there are several Scripture Passages, represented in Basso-Relievo of very nice Workmanship. The Episcopal Palace has nothing extraordinary. The present Bishop is of the Family of Newbourg, and Brother to the Elector of Triers, and the Elector Palatine. The Dignity of Prince of the Empire is annex’d to that of Bishop of Augsbourg, in the same manner as it is to all the Bishopricks of Germany. He is chose by the Chapter, which is compos’d of Canons, who are noble by Sixteen Descents. The Bishop’s Sovereignty extends over almost all the Territory of Augsbourg.

I am now going to give you an Account of one of the most splendid Courts in all Germany, I mean that of Bavaria, which I had the Honour to see at Munich, whither I went at my Departure from Augsbourg.[5]Munich, which is the Capital of Bavaria, stands upon the River Iser, that falls into the Danube, for which Reason the Neighbourhood is almost all Meadow Land. The Town is not large, but very well built, so that I have scarce seen any that makes so gay an Appearance. Munich contains several stately Buildings, both sacred and profane. Among the former, the Two finest, that I took Notice of, are, our Lady’s Church, and that of the Jesuits.

In our Lady’s Church there’s a magnificent Tomb of the Emperor Lewis IV. adorn’d with

Figures of Marble and Brass. There’s one Thing remarkable in this Church, and that is, at the Entrance of the great Gate there’s a particular Place, from whence, as one stands, we observe such a Regularity in the Disposition of the Pillars which support the Roof, that there is not a Window to be perceiv’d in it, tho’ there are a great many.

The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and adorn’d all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver.

Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them.

The Elector’s Palace deserves a diligent View, for it may compare with the Palaces of the most powerful Sovereigns; and I think that, excepting the Palace of the Tuileries, there’s none so big. Yet for all this it has one Defect, common to the Palaces of all Sovereigns, it having been built at several Times, and being by Consequence irregular. The first Time I saw it, I own to you that I was disgusted at this Irregularity; and that it fell vastly short of the Idea I had conceiv’d of the Building from what I had read of it in the Relations publish’d by Travellers.

Of all the Parts of the Electoral Palace, there’s not one that is more magnificent than that which is commonly call’d the Emperor’s Apartment: The principal Room in it is a Hall, which is

118 Feet long, and 52 broad, and may be reckon’d a complete Piece of Work; ’tis adorn’d with fine Paintings, representing sacred and profane History, which are rang’d in exact Order, one over-against the other; and under each of the historical Passages there are Latin Verses explaining the Subject: The Chimney-piece is as magnificent as the rest of the Apartment; on the Top of it there’s the Statue of Porphyry, of admirable Workmanship, representing Virtue, holding a Spear in her Right Hand, and a Branch of gilt Palm in her Left. The Ceiling is adorn’d with gilt Compartments, and with Paintings of a noble Design.

Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro’ a very spacious Antichamber into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the rest. ’Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass’d by Sovereigns, that have administer’d Justice in Person; and these Pictures are accompany’d with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the Subject.

The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the Pieces it contains. ’Tis adorn’d with Basso Relievo’s of a noble Design, and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36 Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral Highness’s Dominions. There’s another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but as finely adorn’d, and especially

with very large Pictures, which represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family of Bavaria. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now mention’d, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold.

The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole is adorn’d with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress’s Apartment communicates with the Elector’s by a private Gallery. All the Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg’d, tho’ the Chambers of the Apartments are a little too small.

The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho’ otherwise ’tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.

The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the one half of it there’s a grand Piazza, adorn’d with Pictures, representing the several Histories of the Princes of the Bavarian Family, which Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector’s Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there’s a very fine House, the lower Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there’s a Sort of Menagery, in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts.

The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest I ever saw. ’Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This Corridor is parted by the Elector’s Box, which is big enough to contain all the Electoral Family, and adorn’d with very rich Sculptures. The Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will judge that no Cost is spar’d, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every Thing being equally noble, and well contriv’d.

Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the like, when there’s an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take it up again.

’Tis said, that when the Great Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, made his victorious Entry at Munich, one of that great Monarch’s Generals advis’d him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus’d to do it, in which he was

Greater than the Great Alexander, who reduc’d the superb Palace of Darius to a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made the Swedish Monarch uneasy was, that he could not carry to Sweden the fine Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention’d to you.

I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family of Bavaria, which is one of the most Illustrious in Europe. The Elector’s Name was Maximilian Emanuel Mary: No Man could have a grander Air, or a better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador’d by his Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence was great, but well-judg’d: He marry’d to his first Wife the Archduchess, Daughter of the Emperor Leopold, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch’d from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the chief Crowns in the World, after the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter of Philip IV.

After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry’d a Princess of Poland, viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski, Daughter to King John Sobieski. This Princess lives so retir’d, that, excepting her own Family, she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides most commonly at Taco, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the Princess is at Munich, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty.

The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral Prince, whose Name is Albert Cajetan: This Prince gave Proof in the War in Hungary, and at the Siege of Belgrade, that he would be the Heir of the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his Dominions: He acquir’d a high Reputation at Vienna, and every body was charm’d with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He talk’d Latin, French and Italian with as much Ease as his native Language.

The Duke Ferdinand is the Elector’s Second Son, tho’ he was first marry’d to a Princess of Neubourg, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This Duke is the handsomest of the Elector’s Sons; he is perfectly well-shap’d, and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers.

Duke Clement is the Elector’s Third Son, and he who has hitherto been Fortune’s greatest Favourite. When I went to Munich, this Prince had been newly elected Bishop of Munster and Paderborn, in the Room of the Duke his Brother, who dy’d at Rome a little after his Election to the Bishoprick. Duke Clement was already Bishop of Ratisbon, when he was chose Bishop of Munster and Paderborn; but he resign’d Ratisbon to Duke Theodore, the last of the Bavarian Princes. These Four Princes, and a Princess, who turn’d Nun at the Time that I was at Munich, are the Elector’s whole Family, and the only Princes of the House of Bavaria.

You know, Madame, that the Electoral Dignity pass’d to this Family after the Disgrace of Frederic Elector Palatine, King of Bohemia, who having been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn’d out of the Upper Palatinate, which was given to the Bavarian Family, as a Reward for the Attachment they had shewn to the House of Austria, and for the Expences they were at in the War. At the Treaty of Westphalia this Grant was confirm’d to the Bavarian Family, and the Son of the unfortunate Frederic recover’d his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The Dukes of Bavaria remain’d in Possession of the Upper Palatinate, and of the Dignity of first Elector. There’s none of ’em all that came up to the Elector Maximilian Emanuel, and never was the Court of Munich so splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ’d there is very much the same with that of the Imperial Court.

As to the Amusements of the Court of Bavaria, they pass’d their Time much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass about 10 o’Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen’d to be Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play’d at Passage till Dinner-time. Then he return’d to his own Apartment, where he din’d privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes, the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din’d by themselves, tho’ they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables serv’d by the Elector’s Officers, which occasion’d an amazing Expence, as did also the Hunting

Equipages; for the Elector went one Way, the Electoral Prince another, and Duke Ferdinand another, so that there were near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return’d from the Chace, the Princes went and pass’d the Evening with the Duchess, where they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither sometimes, and play’d at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time he retired to his Apartment, where he supp’d with the Ladies. The Princes went and supp’d with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp’d at her own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies.

On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were order’d otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress’s Apartment, or to the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. When it was kept at the Electoress’s Apartment, the Ladies went thither in the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness convers’d awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and every one chose what Game or Partner they lik’d best. When the Play was over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table well serv’d, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector’s Service. At this Table no Rank was observ’d, and the very Princes sat down where they could get Places.

When the Court was at Nymphenbourg, the Elector’s Pleasure-house, the Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of Horses, which carry’d Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer’d taking the Air by Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after the Venetian manner, which were always ready for Hire.

On Sundays, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din’d in public, with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and accompany’d those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return’d to the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play’d; upon those Days the Ladies din’d with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry’d Services for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After Supper there was commonly a Ball.

During the Summer, the Elector never fail’d to repair every Thursday Evening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and lay at Nymphenbourg, from whence he return’d upon Saturdays, to hold Councils on Sundays in the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some Pleasure-house.

This, which was the common Life at Court, was very often diversify’d, by Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I own to you, Madame, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What contributed to render the Court of Munich yet more splendid, was, the Presence of the Count de Charolois, a Prince of the Blood of France, who made some Stay here at his Return from the War in Hungary[6]. That young Prince being spurr’d on by Glory, thought he could not better signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out of the Kingdom, he resolv’d to get away without speaking a Word of it to any body but Two Persons that he carry’d along with him. The Day that he put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell’d Seven Post Stages without Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as the Austrian Netherlands, when they thought at Chantilly he was but in the Forest. He went to Liege, and from thence to Bon, but always with an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. From Bon he proceeded thro’ Munich to Vienna; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or Empress he repair’d to Belgrade, which was then

besieg’d by Prince Eugene of Savoy. He distinguish’d himself greatly in this Campaign, and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After the Reduction of Belgrade, he went to Vienna, where he stay’d some time, and then travell’d to Italy, from whence he return’d to Munich. The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv’d by the Duchess, who was the young Count’s Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the Prince her Son. He therefore lodg’d him at the Castle, and defray’d his and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay’d at Munich; he provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he din’d with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow’d them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers, Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to attend him as talk’d French; but he soon acquainted himself with the German Language to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of the Bavarian Accent, in which that Prince express’d himself happily: He return’d to Chantilly the 1st of May 1720.

Three Quarters of a League from Munich is the stately Palace of Nymphenbourg[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court repaired very often. ’Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads to Nymphenbourg, which runs from Munich to the Iron Gates of the Palace. In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions, which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a great Hall, finely adorn’d with Architecture, and an Apartment on each Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin’d on each Side with a Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate.

As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector’s. The first Room at the Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn’d, being altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to the Elector’s Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by the Count de Charolois. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout,

and leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the Elector’s several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn’d with Chimney and Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left, we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue Damask, lac’d with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are painted white, with gilt Basso Relievo’s. In this Closet as well as in the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there’s a Passage to a second Closet, furnish’d in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one another, and look into the Garden: The last mention’d Closet terminates the Elector’s Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all lodg’d there very commodiously.

The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fine Parterre, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks, in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring Water, the middlemost of which runs

out of Sight, and has its Issue by Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves, adorn’d with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk, and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch’d, consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod’s Temple, and all the Furniture is Indian, which is the Reason that ’tis call’d Pagodenbourg. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great Canal, are Bagnio’s. Nothing in the World can be better contriv’d, and more charming: All the Ceilings, the Basso Relievo’s and other Ornaments have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn’d with Statues and Vessels of very great Price.

Tho’ the Elector seem’d to be mightily delighted with Nymphenbourg, yet he was about building another Palace, which was to be call’d Schleisheim: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must be much larger and more noble than Nymphenbourg, so that they said, that Schleisheim would be the Versailles of Bavaria, and Nymphenbourg the Marly.

I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay’d at Munich, that indeed I was very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out with

a Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv’d from the Elector, and the Princes his Children.

I lay the first Night at Wasserbourg[8], and from thence went to Passau, which makes a Part of Lower Bavaria, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan of Saltzbourg.[9]Passau is famous for the Treaty which was concluded there between the Emperor Charles and Mauric Elector of Saxony, whereby the Protestant Religion was establish’d and secur’d in Germany, where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being adorn’d all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture, and the Roof painted in Fresco. I was at Divine Service there on Whitsunday, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could, I observ’d the meanest Women of the Town were dress’d in Gowns of black Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of ’em had Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings, and Ear Pendants of Diamonds.

From Passau I went down the Danube to Lintz, the Capital of Upper Austria; and from thence to Vienna[10], the Capital of Austria, and the ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever since Maximilian. This City, which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into an

Archbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St. Stephen, is an old Building, very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon the Danube, an Arm of which separates it from the Suburb, which is call’d Leopoldstat: The Turks have made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters of Vienna. Soliman II. besieg’d it Sept. 25, 1529, but on the 14th of October following Charles V. oblig’d him to raise the Siege. In 1693 the Turks made another Attempt, and besieg’d it with an Army of above 200,000 Men, when the Emperor Leopold retir’d with all his Family to the Castle of Lintz, and left the Command of the City to the Count de Staremberg: The Count was forc’d to sustain terrible Attacks from the Turks, who push’d on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer, when John Sobieski King of Poland advanced to relieve it, at the Head of an Army of Poles. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th of September, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain’d a complete Victory; for the Turks abandon’d both their Camp and their Artillery, and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast Number of black Cattle, that ’tis said they were sold for Five or Six Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv’d the Tidings that the Siege was rais’d, but he set out from Lintz for Vienna, where he visited the King of Poland in the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments to him for the signal Service he had then done him.

Vienna receiv’d a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the Imperial Palace being reduc’d to Ashes, as well as several other grand Structures.

The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also caus’d such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the Town recover’d its former Splendor.

The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is very ancient, tho’ scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry; and why ’tis not us’d, I can’t imagine: The Apartments of the Empress Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to have them not only rais’d higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess’s Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The Bedchamber and the Closet call’d la Retirade or the Withdrawing-Room, are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace of Vienna, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince of Europe.

The Palace of la Favorita in the Suburb of Vienna, where the Emperor spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. ’Tis a very large House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside. There’s an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case,

all of Timber, that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there’s an Entrance into other Apartments but half furnish’d, and very low, which in short is the Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call’d a fine Prospect.

Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg’d as the Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs. Prince Eugene of Savoy’s Palace is the most magnificent Building that one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all wainscotted, and adorn’d with large Pictures, representing the chief Battles won by Prince Eugene. From this Hall we enter into a large Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous Devos of Brussels, where that skilful Artist has represented the principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll’d up in Pilasters of green Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish’d in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons

being of most curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble.

After having taken a full View of the Prince’s Apartments, I was shew’d the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in Europe. The Books are rang’d in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.

The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of Vienna, which has a Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or rather the Castle, for ’tis a great and stately Building: They were still at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it. There’s a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all lin’d with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn’d with fine Paintings: From this Saloon there’s a Passage to a Room on the Left, the Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another large Closet

at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables and Coach-houses: ’Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has since built a Convent. The Prince was advis’d to it at that very Time, but he refus’d, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus’d to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot stir one Step at Home, without being overlook’d by the Nuns.

On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The Prat, for Instance, is a Place mightily frequented; ’tis a Wood in an Island, form’d by the Danube, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine Weather, that it may well enough be call’d, The Boulogne Grove of Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call’d The Emperor’s Garden: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the Turks having burnt it the last time they besieg’d Vienna, there is nothing of it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms of Insects the Danube brings hither at certain Times of the Year, so that People who come hither to walk, are forc’d to desert it: When they can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually

repair hither in the Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut out noble Walks: This, Madame, is all that is most remarkable in Vienna and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to give you an Idea of this Court.

The Court of Vienna is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same time the most magnificent in Europe: To explain this seeming Paradox, I must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor’s Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be confess’d, that there is not a Court in Europe so splendid as that of Vienna. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages, &c. one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as soon as these Holidays, which

are call’d Gala, are expir’d, they all resume their former Plainness.

After having given you this general Idea of the Court of Vienna, I will acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as the Emperor is risen, he is dress’d; then he reads some Dispatches, and sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is accompany’d by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is follow’d by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm’d with Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files of the Hundred Swiss: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress’s Ladies: The Cavalcade is clos’d by a Company of the Garison at Vienna, which is maintain’d at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor’s Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.

After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.

When the Emperor is return’d to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber call’d la Retirade, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till Dinner-time, which, when ’tis serv’d up, the great Chamberlain goes and acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv’d with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion’d, and all the Dishes were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another’s Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor’s Orders, and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure,

and then every body retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, tho’ they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.

When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter’d down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc’d by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover’d, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver’d to him, he desires an Explanation. When the

Person has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ’d in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty’s great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.

A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of Vienna, in the Article of Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim’d a Right to. The Hundred Swiss and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy Success to the Audience that has been obtain’d, merely for what they can get.

As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call’d, The Looking-Glass Room, because ’tis the only one in her Apartment where there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the

great Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as ’tis in France, where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the Duchesses; for at Vienna those who are call’d Duchesses by way of Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.

There’s another Custom at Vienna, very different from the Practice at other Courts of Europe: Here are no Days fix’d for Drawing-Rooms or Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.

Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat themselves at Table, which is serv’d much after the same manner as at Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress’s Apartment, where Two Wax Candles are plac’d upon the Table, which are chang’d Three or Four Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt’sy, and makes another when she replaces it on the Table. On the Gala or Festival Days, there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presents

it to the Empress. When the Archduchesses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to them that the Emperor has wash’d in, and a Maid of Honour presents them with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two first Archduchesses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archduchesses, this is done by a Lady of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key: After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress’s Hand, as her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Glasses. As soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to the Assembly, which, when I was at Vienna, was held at the House of Madame de Rabutin, whither came all the Beau Monde. Prince Eugene of Savoy was there too every Night, where he play’d constantly at Picquet with the Countess de Badiani and some other Ladies. About 11 o’Clock the Company retir’d to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho’ Supper is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late.

The Empresses Dowagers are serv’d at Table with the same Ceremonies as the Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archduchesses their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but on Sundays and Days of Festival or Gala, the Empress Dowager din’d in public.

I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be only understood of their Persons, for their Officers

and other Domestics are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day of Gala be never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black Ground, embroider’d with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball: As for the Archduchesses, it being the Custom at Vienna for Sisters to dress alike, they must be dress’d all in their Hair upon the Days of Ceremony and Gala, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much like Children’s Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains.

Upon the Days of Gala there are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the Empress on his Left, and the Archduchesses are in the same Row. All those of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have assur’d me, that their Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of the Italian Operas, because neither of ’em are accompany’d with Dances, or any agreeable Entertainment.

I think, Madame, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is remarkable at Vienna, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give you a short Account of the Persons who compos’d that august Court at the Time that I stay’d there.

Charles VI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of the Emperor Leopold:

After the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, he was own’d King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand Alliance, and he then took the Name of Charles III. He went to his Kingdom, and shew’d the Spanish Nation, that he was worthy of being their Sovereign. The Death of the Emperor Joseph, his Eldest Brother, oblig’d him to return to Germany, and when he was at Genoa he heard, that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz’d by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded with France, restor’d that Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv’d of, and that which was concluded some Years after with the Turks, secur’d the Happiness of Hungary, and all the hereditary Dominions.

The Name of the Empress is Elizabeth Christina of Wolfembuttle Blanckenberg: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her Court, and ’tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form’d by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; ’tis impossible to find a more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties: There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to see

only the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey to Vienna.

She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archduchesses her Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the Emperor Leopold, Eleonora Magdalena Theresa of Newbourg: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness of her Birth seem’d to make her uneasy, and she was vex’d to see the Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail’d upon her; she dy’d in a very advanc’d Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the Emperor Leopold, as 1. Joseph-Jacob, who dy’d Emperor at Vienna, the 17th of April 1711. 2. Charles, the present Emperor, and Three Archduchesses; the one marry’d to the King of Portugal; another, Governess of the Netherlands; and the Third, who resides at the Court of Vienna.

The Empress Dowager of the Emperor Joseph resides also at the Court of Vienna, and her Name is Wilhelmina-Amelia: She is the Daughter of the late Duke of Hanover, Uncle to the King of England. After the Death of her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay’d some time in France, and her Sister having marry’d the Prince of Modena, she accompany’d her into that Country, where she stay’d till her Marriage, which was concluded at Modena with the Emperor Joseph, then King of the Romans; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry’d her as Proxy: She went afterwards to Vienna, where she was the Admiration of the whole Court, not only for the Lustre of her Person, but for the other Qualities with which Nature has endow’d

her: She took Care to cultivate her Mind with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which she gave great Application with Success, and she understands French and Italian as well as her native Language. This Princess had several Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses living; the one call’d Maria-Josepha, marry’d to the Electoral Prince of Saxony, now King of Poland; and the other call’d Maria-Amelia, marry’d to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, of Bavaria.

These, Madame, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc’d to the Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court, and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing Attendance, and desir’d Prince Eugene to give me an Employment: I had the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who receiv’d me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place, because the Colonels dispos’d of all the Employments in their Regiments; but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the Count Max—— of S——, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then in Sicily. I was mightily charm’d with this Present, and imagin’d that Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I began to think coolly

of the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I left Vienna: My Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going to Sicily; all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this Occasion I receiv’d fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all interested themselves for me effectually: Madamoseille de K——, Maid of Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur’d me a Gratuity from her Imperial Majesty; and the Countess of W——, at whose House I was every Day, advanc’d me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was able, or rather, when I was preferr’d to be a Lieutenant-General. She accompany’d her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and christian, and seem’d to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang’d my Religion, and was the more willing to assist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again, for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country.

You see, Madame, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you, that I was now in a Condition to quit Vienna with Credit, and indeed my Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities, of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of a Turkish Ambassador, and the second the Marriage of the Archduchess Maria-Josepha

with the Electoral Prince of Saxony; upon both which Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence.

As to the Entry of the Ambassador, I may venture to say, it was only magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the Mahometan’s whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This Ambassador’s Name was Ibrahim Basha; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but they were all very shabbily rigg’d. Till the Day of his Entry he stay’d in a Camp, which he had caus’d to be form’d Two Leagues from Vienna; I went thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv’d us with very great Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a noble Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin, embroider’d with Gold, on which sate the Ambassador, with rich Cushions about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Ambassador’s Right Hand sate the Secretary of the Embassy: Round the Ambassador there was about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress’d, and among them Three or Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ’d a Moor there, that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Ambassador’s special Favourite. After we had talk’d awhile with him, and were taking our Leave of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the Ambassador gave us for our Guide.

This Camp took up more Space of Ground than would have serv’d for 2000 Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac’d without any Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow’d higledy pigledy. But the Ambassador’s particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos’d by Toils like those that are us’d in Hunting: Every thing was to the last Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little better rigg’d; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and desirous to regale us in their Tents.

Some Days after this our Visit, the Ambassador made his Entry with great Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out of Vienna, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and richly dress’d: The Ambassador was dragg’d along by a Pair of wretched Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made almost like the cover’d Waggons of Holland, except that instead of Wax Cloth and Leather, it was cover’d with a red Cloth. When the Ambassador and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted, and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry’d before the Ambassador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard of Mahomet, which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with Crescents of Gold: He who carry’d it was on Horseback, and that the End of the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot held

up the Corners of it. The Ambassador was preceded by all his Equipage, in which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover’d with ragged Tilts, and drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the Ambassador’s Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a Present to the Emperor. Behind the Ambassador there march’d a Company of Spahis, that carry’d Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various Colours. These were follow’d by a Company of Janizaries, who, tho’ but meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment of Hussars.

This Train pass’d before the Palace call’d la Favorita, in View of the Emperor and Empress, and then went thro’ the City, passing the Bridge over the Danube, into the Suburb of Leopoldstat, where a House was prepar’d for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that no Turkish Ambassador must ever lodge in the City of Vienna.

The Ambassador seem’d to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that the Janizaries should carry their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pass’d before the Emperor at his Palace la Favorita; and pleaded in Excuse, that the Janizaries did not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig’d to submit, or he was threaten’d that he should not make his Entry. The Ambassador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus’d only Two Horse-Tails to be carry’d erect, and the Third downwards;

but seeing that no body car’d for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then was treated with Civility. He seem’d to be very fond of good Order, and caus’d some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be severely punish’d.

While the Ambassador stay’d at Leopoldstat, Vienna swarm’d with Turks, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star’d with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ’d a Turk entring St. Stephen’s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which he discover’d the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the Clergy’s Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word, every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem’d to puzzle him most of all was, a noble Lamp burning in the midst of the Choir: He turn’d round and round it again, and view’d it on every Side for a long while, but seem’d as much confounded as at first, wondring to be sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he observ’d a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground. I observ’d that he was mightily pleas’d that he had found out the Meaning of the Difficulty which had so much perplex’d him; and when the Fire was so near him, he pull’d a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity, that I could not help

smiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp, he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out.

Not many Days after the Entry of the Turkish Ambassador was the Ceremony of the Marriage of the Archduchess Maria-Josepha to the Electoral Prince of Saxony. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and ’tis even said, that the Emperor Joseph had promis’d the King of Poland in Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince of Bavaria enter’d the List, which very much embarras’d the Court of Vienna, who did not know for which Match to determine. The Person employ’d in this Negotiation by the Saxon Court was the Count de Wackerbarth. Soon after him the Electoral Prince in Person came to the Court of Vienna, and when he was oblig’d to return, he left the Count de Lagnasco there to take Care of his Interest; who at length obtain’d the Emperor’s Consent, and the Count de F—— came with the Character of Ambassador to demand the Princess of the Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Count de F——, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who should I see arrive but the Count D’Oropesa, a Grandee of Spain, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor’s Chamberlains, in a Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow’d by a second Coach and Six, with the Emperor’s Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty’s Footmen and the Count’s Lackeys walk’d on each Side of

the first Coach. The Count de F—— receiv’d the Count D’Oropesa as he alighted out of his Coach, and conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac’d under a Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich’d with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and over the Chairs was plac’d the Picture of the King of Poland. The Two Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Ambassador giving the Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover’d, talk’d for about a Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Ambassador stepp’d first into the Emperor’s Coach, and then the Count D’Oropesa, the former riding forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the principal Saxon Gentlemen in the Ambassador’s Retinue went into the second Coach. Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way, follow’d by one of the Ambassador’s Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four of his Excellency’s Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode follow’d next; the Emperor’s Footmen and the Count D’Oropesa’s Lackeys walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Ambassador’s Pages, Four of whom were in the German, and Four in the Polish Dress; their Coats were of blue Velvet lac’d with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in blue Cloth lac’d with Gold follow’d the other Pages, and Three of the Ambassador’s Coaches with Six Horses each clos’d the March: In this Order did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Ambassador’s first Coach enter’d alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay’d in the Outer Court. The Ambassador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King his Master demanded the Archduchess of him in Marriage for

the Electoral Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archduchess, and the Archduchess herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Ambassador was conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer’d, That if the Emperor was willing, and the Empress Amelia and the Archduchess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with Pleasure: Then the Ambassador was conducted to an Audience of the Empress Amelia, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer he had receiv’d from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made Answer, That the Emperor’s Will was always Her’s, that the Electoral Prince was a Match that she lik’d, and that she hop’d the Archduchess her Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn’d to the Countess of Caraffa, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the Archduchess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment, dress’d most richly: And the Empress told her what the Ambassador had just declar’d to her on the Part of the King of Poland, relating to her Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor, the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean to constrain her: The Archduchess made Answer, That she had no Objection to the Marriage, and that she obey’d their Imperial Majesties Orders with Respect.

After this Declaration the Ambassador advanc’d, and addressing himself to the Archduchess, presented her with the Electoral Prince’s Picture adorn’d with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having diligently view’d it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archduchess’s Gown, but the Ambassador desir’d her Imperial Majesty to grant him that Honour; and after this Ceremony he return’d to his Palace as he came.

The Emperor, the Empress Regent and the Empress Mother went to the Apartment of the Empress Dowager, where, after mutual Compliments of Congratulation, their Majesties din’d together. In the Evening the Emperor and the Empresses went to pay a Visit to the Archduchess, that was to be marry’d, where the whole Court was present, and there was great Play, after which their Imperial Majesties and the Archduchess went and supp’d with the Empress Amelia.

Some Days after this, the Ambassador of Poland went again in Ceremony, but with his own Coaches, to the Palace la Favorita, where, in the Presence of all the Imperial Family, all the Ministers and Privy Counsellors, and the Knights of the Golden Fleece, he solemnly renounc’d the Right of Succession in the Name of the King his Master, and of the Electoral Prince of Saxony, in case it pleas’d God that the Emperor should dye without Male Issue. The Count de Sinzendorf, Chancellor of the Court, read the Act of Renunciation to all present, after which the Emperor demanded the Consent of the Archduchess, and the Princess giving her said Consent, the Emperor order’d an Oath thereupon to

be administer’d to her, which she took accordingly before the Archbishop of Valencia. This Prelate being dress’d in his Pontificalibus before an Altar that had been erected in the Chamber, gave the Book of the Gospels to the Princess, who laying her Hands thereon, solemnly renounc’d the Rights of Succession. The Ambassador swore the same Thing in the Name of the King his Master, and the Electoral Prince of Saxony.

In a few Days after this was done, the Electoral Prince set out from Dresden, and came to a House made ready for him Two Leagues from Vienna. Having sent Notice of his Arrival to the Emperor, the Empresses and the Archduchess, the Emperor dispatch’d the Count de Molard the chief Steward of his Kitchen to him, as the Empresses and the Archduchesses did the Gentlemen of their Housholds, to compliment him thereupon: Next Day the Prince came incognito to the Convent of Nuns founded by the Empress Amelia, who also repair’d thither with the Two Archduchesses her Daughters. After an Interview of about Half an Hour, the Archduchess, that was to be marry’d, and the Electoral Prince of Saxony, went to the Church, and there confess’d; which done, the Prince return’d to his House, which, as I have had the Honour to observe to you, was Two Leagues from Vienna. He came again from thence next Day at Six in the Evening, and alighted at the Palace la Favorita, where being conducted into the great Chamberlain’s Apartment, he there chang’d his Cloaths, and was then introduc’d by the great Chamberlain to the Emperor, and his Imperial Majesty led him to the Empress’s Apartment, where were the Two Empress Dowagers and all

the Archduchesses. The Emperor presented the Prince to them, and then they went to the Chapel in the following Order: The March was begun by all the Lords and Ladies of the Court; then came the Electoral Prince, with one of his Gentlemen, bearing a Wax Candlestick before him. The Emperor immediately follow’d the Prince, and then came the Three Empresses and the Archduchess, who was supported by the Two Empress Dowagers, the Empress Regent walking foremost, as she always did where-ever they went: The latter had on a Straw-colour’d Gown of Silver Tissue, adorn’d with Diamonds, and her Head Dress was adorn’d all over with Pearls like Pears. The Archduchess, whom I shall hereafter call the Electoral Princess, was also very richly dress’d; she wore a Fardingale, and her Gown was of Silver Brocade adorn’d with Diamonds: Next to the Princess the Three Archduchesses walk’d one after another, led each by their Equerries: These Princesses were follow’d by their Ladies, whose Dresses were of extraordinary Magnificence. As soon as the Electoral Prince and Princess were arriv’d in the Chapel, they received the nuptial Benediction from the Archbishop of Vienna. When the Ceremony was ended, the Imperial Family return’d to the Empress’s Closet, where they stay’d near Two Hours, and then repair’d to the Table, in the same Order as they observ’d when they went to the Church. The Hall of the Festival was set off in an extraordinary manner; the Table was plac’d upon a Floor rais’d Three Steps, which form’d an oblong Square. The Emperor and the Three Empresses sate at one End; the Electoral Princess sate on the Right Side of the Table, and at the Right Hand of the Empress Mother;

the Electoral Prince, who had the second Place on the Right Hand of the Princess, had a Chair with only a Back to it, and was serv’d by one of his own Chamberlains; whereas the Princess and the Archduchesses sate in Arm-chairs, and were attended by the Emperor’s Chamberlains: Over-against the Princess, on the Left Hand of the Empress Amelia, sate the Archduchess her Daughter, and the Two Archduchesses the Emperor’s Sisters: The Court Ladies stood all round the Table till their Imperial Majesties had each drank once, and then they went to sit down at Tables serv’d in different Rooms, but return’d to the Desart: There was such a Number of Services, that the Supper held a long time, during which it was animated by excellent Music: In the same Room a Sort of Gallery was erected for the Turkish Ambassador, who saw all the Supper, and was attended by 30 of his Domestics. Care was taken to serve him with Sweetmeats and other Refreshments; and the Interpreter having ask’d him what he thought of the Magnificence of the Court of Vienna; he answer’d very gallantly, That noble as this Appearance was, there was nothing so grand in the whole Entertainment as the Person of the Empress.

After Supper was ended, the Empress Dowagers led the Princess into her own Apartment, and did not retire till she was in Bed: Next Day the Prince and Princess receiv’d the Compliments of the whole Court; they din’d afterwards with the Emperor and the Empresses, and at Night went and saw a new Opera, that was compos’d upon account of their Nuptials. The Emperor sate there as usual, with the Empress on his Left Hand, and the Archduchesses one after another

in the same Row; the Electoral Princess preserv’d the Precedence due to her Birth; the Electoral Prince sate in the same Line as the Emperor, but after all the Archduchesses. The Opera was most magnificent, yet I thought it very tedious, for really ’twas too long; and besides, the Heat was intolerable: When the Opera was over, the Imperial Family supp’d together, as they did next Day at Dinner, which was the last Meal that the Prince and Princess made at Vienna; for as soon as they rose from Table, they took Leave of the Emperor and the Empresses, and set out for Dresden. There arose some Difficulty touching the Ceremonial that was to be observ’d as they pass’d thro’ Prague, to avoid which the Electoral Prince went before, and pass’d round the Town; but the Princess made her Entry there.

As soon as the Princess was gone, I began to think what a tedious Journey I should have before I could join my Regiment, which, as I have had the Honour to tell you, was in Sicily. As this Journey would naturally keep me a long time out of my own Country, I was willing first of all to settle my Affairs. For this Reason I desir’d a Month’s Furlough, and went to Dresden, from whence I sent for my Steward to come and meet me. I chose to stay at Dresden rather than Berlin, not only on account of the Solemnity of the Princess’s Entry, of which I was fond to be a Spectator, but because of the Enemies I had at the Court of Prussia, who would perhaps have done me some ill Office with the King. Having set out from Vienna a few Days after the Electoral Princess, I arrived at Dresden the same Day that her Highness made her Entry there. The

Preparations made for receiving the Princess were of the utmost Magnificence, so that one could hardly imagine any thing more rich and gay. In order to give you some Idea of the Polish Magnificence, I will resume my Narrative from the Time of the Princess’s Departure from Prague.

As soon as the King had Notice that the Princess was gone from Prague, he sent the Count de Wackerbarth, Grand Master of the Artillery, at the Head of several Gentlemen, to meet her: The Count, who met the Princess on the Frontiers of Bohemia, complimented her in the King’s Name, and presented those Officers to her which his Majesty sent to attend her; for till then she had been waited on by the Officers of the Emperor, who had all along defray’d her Expences. Her Highness proceeded in her Journey to Pirna, the first Town in Saxony, where she was receiv’d by the Electoral Prince, and saluted by the Cannon of the Castle of Sonnenstein. Next Day, at 7 o’Clock in the Morning, the Prince and Princess went on board the Bucentaure, which was a Galley finely rigg’d, and call’d by that Name, because ’twas built after the Model of the Bucentaure of Venice: Their Galley was accompany’d by 100 Gondolas, painted and richly gilded, and by 12 Fregates, from 6 to 12 Guns each: All the Gondoliers and Sailors had Jackets of Sky-blue Sattin, and Breeches of yellow Sattin, lac’d with Silver. With this gallant Fleet, worthy to carry Thetis and Amphitrite, the Prince and Princess arriv’d within Half a League of Dresden.

The King went in Cavalcade to the Place where the Princess landed, some Hours before her Arrival, and was attended by the Nobility of his Court, all richly dres’d. The King especially

was attir’d most sumptuously, in shorn Velvet of a purple Colour, adorn’d with Diamonds, to the Value of Two Millions of Crowns: He caus’d his Standard to be carry’d before him by a Polander, arm’d cap-a-pie. As soon as he came to the Landing-Place, he made a Review of the Train that was to compose the Entry, and retir’d afterwards to a magnificent Tent, lin’d with yellow Velvet, adorn’d with Silver Lace, to wait the Arrival of the Princess.

As soon as the Bucentaure came near enough to be seen from Land, she made a triple Discharge of all her Artillery, which were answer’d by the Cannon of Five Yatchts that were at Anchor on the Elbe, over-against the King’s Tent, and from the Batteries on Shore.

During this the King went to the Ships, over a Bridge erected for that Purpose, and cover’d with green Tapistry, sprinkled with Flowers. The Bucentaure dropping her Anchor, the Princess made ready to meet the King: When she came near him, she would fain have kiss’d his Hand, but the Monarch embrac’d her tenderly, and conducted her to his Tent, where he had some Conversation with the Prince and Princess, and then left them to return to Dresden.

The Prince and Princess sate down to Table, and a grand Breakfast was serv’d up; then the Boards of the Tent were struck down, that their Highnesses might see the Troops and Equipage march by that were to compose their Retinue at their Entry into Dresden: All this lasted about Two Hours; then came a stately Coach drawn by Eight Horses, being the Equipage that was for the Princess, who sate in it alone, while the Prince her Husband rode on Horseback, and

they made their Entry with all the Pomp and Magnificence possible.

I own to you, Madame, that I was so charmed with the Disposition that was observ’d in this Procession, and especially with the Richness and Elegancy of the Habiliments, that I cannot resist the Temptation I feel to give you the Particulars, but must submit to it, tho’ I run the Risque perhaps of being thought too tedious.

The Cavalcade was open’d by the King’s Harbinger on Horseback, in the Saxon Livery, which was yellow Cloth, with broad Lace of blue Velvet, mix’d with Silver Lace.

Then came 2 Post Masters.

The Baron de Mordax, Post Master General, preceded by his Domestics on Foot.

40 Post Masters of Saxony clad in white with yellow Lace, the whole edg’d with Silver, as were also the Housings of their Horses, which were all over black.

100 Postilions dress’d in yellow with blue Lace, they had Caps like Dragoons, and the Housings of their Horses were embroider’d with the King’s Arms.

120 Led Horses richly caparison’d, belonging to the chief Lords of the Court.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, dress’d in the antique Garb in black Cloth and yellow, with Gold Lace.

50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress’d also in the antique manner, in the yellow, black and gold Colours, bearing Halberds: These represented the ancient Guards of the Electors of Saxony.

The Nobility of Lusatia dress’d in black Velvet, with Buttons and Button-holes of Gold.

24 Horses cover’d with great Housings of yellow Cloth, adorn’d with 2 Silver Lace Edgings, and the embroider’d Arms of the 24 Cities or Provinces of Saxony and Poland.

A Kettle-Drummer and 6 Trumpets, habited like the former.

The Nobility of Saxony dress’d in black Velvet Coats, with Buttons and Loops of Gold, and Waistcoats of Gold Brocade.

50 Halberdiers on Horseback, dress’d and arm’d like the former.

A Regiment of Dragoons, whose Regimental Cloaths were red, fac’d with grey, and edg’d with Silver Galoon; the Housings of the Horses were likewise red, and embroider’d with Silver; and the Dragoons were dress’d exactly like the Officers, only they had not Silver Lace.

120 Coaches and 6 Horses belonging to the Chamberlains and Ministers, each preceded by Lackeys and Running-Footmen, and surrounded by Heydukes, with 2 Pages in Front.

The King’s Huntsmen, consisting of 200 Persons, dress’d in green with Silver Lace.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers, cloath’d in red, turn’d up with green: The Officers had Gold Lace, and their Caps were likewise embroider’d with Gold.

An Equerry of the Princess Royal, attended by 2 Grooms in the Saxon Livery on Horseback.

25 Hunting Horses, all English, belonging to the Electoral Prince: The Horses were cover’d with Housings of yellow Cloth, lac’d with Silver, and embroider’d with the Arms of Poland and Saxony.

Another of the Electoral Prince’s Equerries, at the Head of 36 Led Horses belonging to his Highness, which had Housings of yellow Velvet,

adorn’d with Lace and Fringe of Silver; the Arms of Poland and Saxony being embroider’d upon each of the Saddle-cloths in 2 Escutcheons under a Royal Pavilion.

A Regiment of Cuirassiers, having their Cuirasses gilt, with white and straw-colour’d Plumes on their Helmets.

A Herald at Arms, wearing a Vest of yellow and blue Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, and a Cap of black Velvet, adorn’d with white and blue Plumes of Feathers.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the Livery of Saxony.

3 of the King’s Equerries, follow’d by 36 English Horses, belonging to his Majesty, with Housings like to those of the Prince’s Hunting Horses.

The Governor and Sub-Governor of the Pages, in Cloaks of black Damask, adorn’d with black and Gold Lace.

24 of the King’s Pages, dress’d in the antique Mode, with Cloaks of blue and yellow Sattin, adorn’d with Lace, in the Saxon Livery; and with black Velvet Caps, adorn’d with white and blue Plumes.

40 Manag’d Horses, with Housings of yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, led by Grooms in the Saxon Livery on Horseback.

An Equerry, follow’d by a Couple of Grooms in the Saxon Livery on Horseback.

24 Coaches of the King as Elector, with Sets of Horses of several Colours.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 Trumpeters in the Saxon Livery.

A Litter of the King’s, plated all over with Silver, and adorn’d with yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver, carry’d by a Couple of

Mules, richly harness’d: Their Bells were all of Silver, and their Pannels of yellow Velvet, embroider’d with Silver; they had great Plumes on their Heads of blue and white Feathers, and the Muleteers were dress’d in the Spanish Mode, but in the Saxon Livery.

After this Litter there follow’d 24 Mules, cover’d with yellow Cloth Housings, lac’d with Silver, and embroider’d with the Royal Arms; they had blue and white Plumes of Feathers, and their Bells and Paniers were of solid Silver.

A Regiment of Cuirassiers, whose Cuirasses were wash’d with Silver, and Helmets tufted with red and white Plumes.

A Herald at Arms, with a Vest of straw-colour’d Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, with the Arms of Poland.

2 Equerries in the Polish Habit.

A Kettle-Drummer and 12 of the King’s Trumpeters in the Polish Dress, in Scarlet with blue Velvet Lace, mix’d with Gold Lace.

36 Polish Led Horses, having red Velvet Housings, with the King’s Arms in Gold Embroidery.

A Governor of the Polish Pages on Horseback, follow’d by 24 Pages in the Polish Habit, of Scarlet with Vests of blue Sattin, the whole edg’d with an open Gold Lace.

3 of the King’s Equerries in the Polish Dress, Follow’d by 24 Turkish Horses richly caparison’d alamode de Turky, led by Grooms in the Polish Livery, but Turkish Habit, walking on Foot, and bearing each on their Left Arm a Tyger’s Skin, edg’d with scarlet Velvet, lac’d with Gold, and embroider’d with the King’s Arms.

24 open Calashes, drawn each by 6 Polish Horses, drove by Coachmen and Postilions in the Polish Habit.

A Litter of red Spanish Leather, lin’d with straw-colour’d Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, carry’d by 2 Mules, caparison’d after the Turkish Mode, with Pannels of scarlet Velvet, embroider’d with Gold, and drove by Muleteers in the Turkish Dress, but with the Polish Livery.

24 Mules caparison’d after the Turkish manner, with scarlet Velvet embroider’d with Gold.

A Regiment of Horse-Grenadiers dress’d in red, fac’d with blue, as were also the Officers, only with the Addition of a Silver Lace.

All the Colonels and Generals of the Troops dress’d uniform in Scarlet, with gilt Buttons.

The Veldt Marshal the Count de Flemming.

A Regiment of Dragoons in a red Livery fac’d with blue; only the Officers had their Facings and Vest embroider’d with Silver.

2 Harbingers of the Court.

All the Gentlemen of the Bedchamber, the Chamberlains and Ministers on Horseback, who were follow’d at some Distance by the Grand Marshal.

A Regiment of Dragoons, dress’d in red with yellow Facings, and the Coats of the Officers edg’d with a Gold Lace.

12 Running-Footmen with blue Damask Jackets lac’d with Silver, and Sashes of yellow Damask, embroider’d with Silver, and encompass’d with a Silver Fringe; these were follow’d by 24 Heydukes in the Saxon Livery.

The Hundred Swiss Guards, dress’d after the antique manner in the Saxon Liveries, walking in Two Files, with their Officers in the French Mode at their Head, in Sky-blue Coats, all of the same Pattern, with Silver Buttons and Button-holes, and Belts of Silver.

The Electoral Prince of Saxony was in the midst of the Hundred Swiss; he had a Coat on of Cloth of Silver, embroider’d with Gold and Diamonds, and was mounted on a fine Spanish Horse, the intire Equipage whereof was of Gold adorn’d with Diamonds. The Count de Lutzelbourg, great Steward of his Houshold, and the Baron de Galen, one of the Prince’s Chamberlains, immediately follow’d him.

The Prince was attended by 36 Footmen in the Saxon Livery, and by a Company of the King’s Life-Guards.

Then came at a little Distance a Moor on Horseback, in the Turkish Dress, all in Gold and Silver Brocade, bearing a Quiver of Arrows; he was follow’d by 24 Moors, dress’d also in the Turkish Habit, in scarlet Cloaths edg’d with blue and Gold Lace, and long Vests of white Sattin; and upon their Turbans they wore very fine Tufts of Feathers.

Immediately after came the Princess’s Coach between Two Files of the Hundred Swiss; ’twas adorn’d with crimson Velvet, cover’d all over with Gold Embroidery; the Roof was adorn’d with 8 great Plumes of white Feathers, and in the middle there were Tufts of Herons Feathers: This Equipage was drawn by 8 stately Neapolitan Horses, which had Harnesses of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, and Plumes of white Feathers upon their Heads, with noble Housings of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, and edg’d with Gold Fringe, which hung down to the Ground: The Coachman, Postilions and 8 Grooms led the Horses by Strings and Reins of Gold, and they had Coats of crimson Velvet, with Waistcoats fac’d with blue Velvet, and adorn’d with a broad Gold Lace.

Immediately after her Highness’s Coach the chief Steward of her Houshold follow’d on Horseback, attended by 24 Turks in Scarlet, with fine Tufts of Feathers on their Turbans.

A Company of the Life-Guards.

5 Coaches with the Saxon Livery, in which sat the Princess’s chief Lady and her Maids of Honour.

A Regiment of Horse, in a red Livery fac’d with blue, clos’d the March.

With this pompous Train the Princess arriv’d at the Palace: The Streets thro’ which her Highness pass’d were lin’d with 5000 Foot in new Cloaths: The Electoral Prince handed the Princess out of her Coach, and led her into the grand Apartment, where were the King and Queen and the whole Court: From the very Entrance of the Palace to the Guard-Room the Hundred Swiss were drawn up in Two Rows under Arms: The Guard-Room was lin’d with the Horse-Guards in scarlet Coats fac’d with blue, and blue Cloth Waistcoats embroider’d with Gold: The Life-Guards form’d the second Row, next to the Horse-Guards.

The King and Queen went to the third Antichamber to meet the Princess, when the King presented her to the Queen, whose Hand her Highness offer’d to kiss; but her Majesty embrac’d her, and taking her by the Hand, led her after the King into the Chamber of Audience: They stay’d there a few Moments, and then their Majesties and their Highnesses went into the Closet, from whence the Queen led her back in a little time to the Chamber of Audience, where she presented all the Ladies to her. Afterwards the Princess being fatigued retir’d to her Apartment, and the Court broke up till next Morning,

when there was a Te Deum sung, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon from the Ramparts, and of the small Arms from all the Infantry: After this Solemnity was over, the King and Queen din’d in State, at a Table forming an oblong Square, rais’d Three Steps from the Floor, and plac’d under a magnificent Canopy: The Prince and Princess din’d with their Majesties, the Prince at one End of the Table near the King, and the Princess at the other End by the Queen: They had Arm-Chairs, but not so high as were those of their Majesties.

At the same time there were 9 Tables spread for 30 Guests apiece, for the Ladies, the Courtiers, and the Foreigners: There was a fine Concert of Music during the Dinner, and at Night an Italian Opera.

The Court did not assemble next Day till the Evening, when there was a grand Ball, which the King open’d with the Queen: Their Majesties danc’d a Polish Dance to the Music of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets: When the Dance was over, the King led the Queen to a Place that was rais’d Three Steps above the Floor, under a rich Canopy. He then danc’d with the Princess, who danc’d afterwards with the Queen; and then the Queen danc’d with the Prince, who danc’d afterwards with the Princess: When all these Dances were ended, they began Minuets, and the Ball lasted till 2 o’Clock in the Morning, only it was thrice interrupted by Three Collations, which were serv’d up by 24 Polish Pages, as many Saxon Pages, and by the same Number of Moors and Turks, who had all the same Habits as they wore upon the Day of the

Entry, which was a Sight as singular as it was magnificent.

The next Day after this Ball, which was the 5th of September, a Comedy was perform’d by French Comedians, who play’d Ariane, and l’Ete des Coquettes.

On the 6th there was a Battle of Beasts in Areas that were built for the Purpose.

On the 7th there was a grand Italian Opera, intitul’d Theophanes, in which the famous Musicians Senesino and Bercelli perform’d surprisingly. The Opera being longer than ordinary, the King, who sat in the Pit, supp’d there with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses: And at the same time there were little Tables serv’d in the Boxes for the Ladies.

There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the 10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play’d in the Garden of the King’s Palace. There the King supp’d with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each, and serv’d all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper there was a fine Firework play’d, representing the carrying off of the Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at, and I made ready to set out for Sicily, where my Employment required my Presence: Yet, before I leave Dresden, I must say a Word or two concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time.

The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, the Electoral Prince and Princess.

The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; ’tis impossible to see him without being

captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the Electorate of Saxony; and soon after, upon the Death of John Sobieski, the Poles chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he commanded the Emperor’s Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and Valour.

The Queen is of the Family of Brandenbourgh Bareith, and was espous’d to the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port, and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities: She resides commonly at Torgau, or at Pretsch, and comes but very seldom to Dresden: She has a separate House from the King’s, which is very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King having given her the old Chapel at Dresden and caus’d another to be built for Himself and the Catholics.

The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his Grandmother, who was a Princess of Denmark: When he was able to support the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to Italy, and from thence to France, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a

King; after which the Prince went to Vienna, and ’twas during the Stay he made at the Court that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the Archduchess, now the Electoral Princess: You’ll judge by the Account I have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost impossible but she must be very much belov’d at the Court of Saxony; and she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People who conceiv’d some Umbrage at the Prince’s Marriage, for Fear of their Religion, were quickly reconcil’d to it: For indeed what Violence was there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish’d for her Moderation and Good-nature?

These, Madame, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now ’tis augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho’ the Royal Family was not numerous when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and Courtiers, who were then at Dresden, made it very splendid: I had the Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don’t undertake now to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some Account of the City of Dresden. [11] Dresden is one of the finest Towns in Germany for its Situation and its Structures; ’tis the Capital of Misnia in Upper Saxony. Charlemain

was the first that caus’d it to be fortify’d; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence of the Dukes and Electors of Saxony, who have caus’d its Fortifications to be considerably augmented, and ’tis now a very strong Place: ’Tis divided by the River Elbe into Two Parts, call’d The New Town and The Old Town. In the latter stands the Prince’s Palace, which was formerly a very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being consum’d by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments, which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are nobly furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of Cosel, who liv’d in it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest, but perfectly well dispos’d, and they are adorn’d with fine Paintings, and very richly furnish’d: Near the King’s Palace there’s a very fine Garden, call’d Zuinger-Garten, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the middlemost there’s a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac’d with Marble, with gilded Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Glass are embellished with very fine large Plate-Glass. The rest of the Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet perhaps a little too much incumber’d with carv’d Work.

Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King’s Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render Old Dresden a very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well pav’d, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it.

This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into New Dresden is a House that belongs to the King, and is call’d The Palace of Holland, because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which ’tis adorn’d, came from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its Situation most charming by reason of the River Elbe, which runs just by it.

The Inhabitants of Dresden are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest of Saxony, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of Saxony bears the Title of Grand Marshal of the Empire, and is the Third in Rank among the Secular Electors.

Thus, Madame, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the Electorate of Saxony: I own to you, I lik’d the Country very much, and the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it, and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to Sicily.

When I left Dresden, I took the Road to Munich, to which I made very great Haste, because I was so teiz’d with my old Ailment, for which La Peronie had me under Cure at Paris, that I did not care to delay, putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me, was no less a Man than the Elector’s own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy’d from the Surgeon’s Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany’d them in Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health: The Count de Charolois, who was still at the Court of Bavaria, made an Agreement with the Princes of Bavaria, to ride Post to Saltzbourg, to see an Italian Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to celebrate his Birth-Day: The Bavarian Princes set out first, and lodged in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be incog. The Count de Charolois set out from Munich at 8 o’Clock at Night, with only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the Evening arriv’d at Saltzbourg: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the Bavarian Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I assure you, Madame, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre, the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch’d the Ceiling with their Heads: The Singing and Dancing

were something comical: What most diverted me were the Interludes, which were executed by the Archbishop’s Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands, but Sheep appear’d every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc’d, some, who mov’d the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff’d with Straw skip up and down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry’d Lines, to which were fasten’d Trouts; others appear’d with Nets full of live Fish, which made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted themselves very much with this Piece, and ’twas a long rime before they could get the Archbishop’s Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on’t.

Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be incog. they were known, and the Archbishop, who was inform’d of their Arrival upon the very Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper, desiring at the same time to be excus’d for not waiting on them in Person, which he assur’d them he should have done, if he had not been made acquainted, that they were willing to be incog. The Bavarian Princes were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop’s Supper; and for my own Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good

in that pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my Heart to have been at the Archbishop’s Table. But the Count de Charolois would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to him, the Bavarian Princes refus’d it likewise; however, they paid the Archbishop a Visit, and the Count de Charolois went along with them by the Name of the Count de Dammartin; I had also the Honour to accompany them: The Archbishop receiv’d the Princes without any Ceremony, according to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very short. The Princes return’d to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv’d up exactly in the Gout of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress’d enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn’d into a Ragou; but ’tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous; for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil’d it to a Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv’d up: This insipid Dish was follow’d by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at Night, and then the Princes of Bavaria went to Bed, but as for the Count de Charolois, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp’d, and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return’d to Munich, but went by the way of Alten-Ottingen, in order to see the Treasure that is kept in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which contain’d very fine Things, was inrich’d with

Abundance of noble Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in Europe. From thence we set out for Munich, where we arriv’d after a Ramble of Three Days and as many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell’d near 40 German Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin’d.

The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at Munich even refus’d to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis’d me to make a Tour to Paris, where the most able Professors in Arts of all Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for ’twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid, that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv’d to go to Paris. But, before I set out, I wrote to the Count de S——, to tell him the Condition I was in, tho’ I assur’d him that I would stay no longer at Paris than was necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish’d or not I can’t tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv’d no Answer. I was sorry to leave Munich, and no doubt, Madame, you are surpriz’d to find me going for Paris, as it were in spite of my Will, and I assure you, that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I always found so many things to charm me, tho’ I was fully sensible, that the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me heartily weary of staying in it.

This therefore was the first time that I may say I set out for Paris with Regret: I went thither by the way of Strasbourg, and when I arriv’d

I put myself again into the Hands of la Peronie, who in less than a Month’s Time made me sound! During that Space I notify’d my Arrival to some particular Friends, who kept me Company till I was perfectly cur’d. They told me surprizing News, of which I had already been informed by several Letters; but ’twas all so improbable, I never could believe it to be true. Millions was the Word in every body’s Mouth, and he that was but a Lackey one Day, was the next a Lord. ’Twas sufficient only to be seen in the famous Street of Quinquempoix, and unless you were quite forsaken by your Guardian Angel, you were sure of going off of the Place with immense Wealth. I was advis’d to do as others did, and to try if Fortune was still resolv’d to frown upon me: A great many Persons were nam’d to me that had actually got Millions, who came first into the Street with almost nothing in their Pockets; that was my Case exactly: But the Hopes of good Luck made me resolve to try my Fortune, as soon as I was able to stir abroad: And thither I actually went, and put myself in the Rank with those who sacrific’d to Fortune: I had the best Luck in the World at first setting out, and without knowing how or which way, found myself possess’d in a little time of a considerable Sum, such that I am even asham’d to tell you how much it amounted to, since you would absolutely pronounce me a Madman, for not knowing when I had enough; but in short I began so well, that I thought it would be cowardly to stop, and therefore I push’d on; but was quickly sensible that I had committed a gross Blunder in not drawing back; for my Millions vanish’d almost in the same manner as they came, and without knowing why or wherefore, I found my Purse