A
NARRATIVE
OF
TRAVELS IN NORTHERN AFRICA,
IN THE YEARS 1818, 19, AND 20;

ACCOMPANIED BY
GEOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF SOUDAN,
AND OF
THE COURSE OF THE NIGER.

WITH
A CHART OF THE ROUTES, AND A VARIETY OF COLOURED PLATES,
ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE COSTUMES OF THE SEVERAL NATIVES OF NORTHERN AFRICA.

BY CAPTAIN G. F. LYON, R. N.
COMPANION OF THE LATE MR. RITCHIE.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1821.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WHITEFRIARS.

TO
HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY
GEORGE THE FOURTH.

Sire,

For the gracious condescension of Your Majesty, in permitting me to place the following pages under Your Royal Patronage, I shall ever be impressed with the most sincere gratitude.

That Your Majesty may long, happily, and uninterruptedly reign in the hearts and over the destinies of your faithful people, is the constant and fervent prayer of,

Your Majesty’s
Most dutiful and most devoted
Subject and Servant,

GEORGE FRANCIS LYON.

March, 1821.

PREFACE.

The situation of an author, when he presents himself to the scrutinizing observation of the public, must ever be one of the greatest doubt and anxiety; but as the following pages are intended only to detail facts in the plainest manner, without attempt at embellishment of any kind, it is hoped that they will not only meet with indulgence from the general reader, but escape, without very severe comment, from the examination of the critic. All that can be said in their recommendation is, that they adhere strictly to truth, and that not a single incident described by the author is in the slightest degree exaggerated; on the contrary, he has not only abridged but, in some instances, entirely omitted to mention circumstances which occurred to him, fearing either to excite doubt in the minds of his readers, or by too long details to trespass on their patience.

The Tour is divided into two parts. The first comprizes the original progress of the mission from Tripoli to Morzouk, where the unfortunate Mr. Ritchie died: the second embraces the author’s examination of the remainder of the kingdom of Fezzan, from the death of his companion, until the final return of the mission to Tripoli; it being deemed too hazardous to attempt advancing farther into the interior, without fresh authority and additional pecuniary supplies from Government.

In that part of the journey which was undertaken after the death of Mr. Ritchie, the state of the temperature is, by a thermometer, graduated according to Reaumur.

In consequence of Mr. Ritchie’s frequent and debilitating attacks of illness, and his having relied too much on a singularly retentive memory, he had, from time to time, delayed committing his remarks to paper, in the delusive anticipation of ease and leisure, which, unhappily, he was destined never to enjoy; and it was thus owing to an unfortunate procrastination, that much valuable information has been lost to the world.

The present journal, therefore, although regularly kept, must necessarily be very inferior to that which would have been produced by Mr. Ritchie, had he been blessed with better health and prolonged life; but, however great his loss may be considered in a scientific point of view, this circumstance, it is earnestly hoped, will operate as an additional claim, on the part of the author, to the kind consideration of the public, to whom he offers his little work only as an humble substitute for one which would have been far better arranged; trusting that in his total want of pretension and ready admission of its defects, it may meet the general indulgence, which he can claim on no other account.

The author is indebted to the kindness of the Rev. W. Buckland, Professor of Mineralogy at Oxford, for the interesting paper on the geology of the kingdom of Fezzan.

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER,
FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

CONTENTS.

MAP
of a Route through the
REGENCY OF TRIPOLI طربلس
AND
KINGDOM OF FEZZAN فزّان
Performed in the Years 1818-19 & 20.
BY CAPT^N. G. F. LYON. R.N.

Engraved under the direction of A. Arrowsmith.

London, Published by John Murray, 50 Albemarle Str^t. March, 1821.

([Larger size], [Largest size])

TRAVELS
FROM
TRIPOLI TO MOURZOUK.

CHAPTER I.

The Author’s Departure from Malta — Arrival at Tripoli — Character of Mohammed el Mukni, Bey of Fezzan — Equipment of Mr. Ritchie and the Author — Costume of the Natives of Tripoli — Character of the Marāboots, and Celebration of their annual Festival — The Natives of Tripoli — Their Habits, Customs, &c. — Public Baths — Punishments — Costumes of the Women — Tripoline Marriages and Funerals — Funeral of the Bashaw’s Grand-daughter — Resignation of M. Dupont — Journey to the Gharian Mountains and Benioleed, in Company with Mr. Ritchie — General Appearance of the Country — Arrival at the Gharian Mountains — Visit to the Sheikh — Short Account of the Passes — Roman Tomb — Castle of Gharian — Distressed State of Usadena — Account of the People of Gharian — Set out for Benioleed, through the gravelly Desert — Arrival at Benioleed — Character of the Inhabitants — Its Population — Description of the Arabs — Their Religion, Manners, Habits, &c.

IN the month of September, 1818, Mr. Ritchie, a gentleman of great science and ability, employed by the British government on a mission to the interior of Africa, arrived at Malta from Marseilles, attended by M. Dupont, a Frenchman in his pay, whom he had engaged for the purpose of collecting and preparing objects of natural history. It was understood that Captain Marryat, of the Royal Navy, was also to have accompanied Mr. Ritchie; but that circumstances had occurred which induced that gentleman to relinquish his intention of joining the mission. Soon after Mr. Ritchie’s arrival in Malta, I was fortunate enough to become acquainted with him, and hearing him express his disappointment at having failed to obtain Captain Marryat as his companion on the proposed expedition, I ventured to offer my best endeavours to supply his place, and although conscious that I had but little talent to boast, I yet hoped that the zeal by which I was actuated would in some degree make amends for my deficiencies in other respects. Mr. Ritchie, without hesitation, accepted my proposal, and in consequence lost no time in applying to Admiral Sir C. V. Penrose, Commander-in-Chief in the Mediterranean, to solicit the necessary leave for my quitting the Albion. Sir C. Penrose, in the kindest and most flattering manner, acceded to the request, and immediately wrote in my favour to the Lords of the Admiralty, to obtain permission for me to belong to the mission. Mr. Ritchie in the meantime occupied himself in making preparations for his departure; and, as an addition to his small party, engaged a ship-wright from the dockyard, Malta, named John Belford (who, as well as myself, was a volunteer), to accompany him. His arrangements thus made, Mr. Ritchie, on the 10th October, sailed for Tripoli in the Admiral’s schooner, leaving me behind, anxiously awaiting an answer from England to the application made for me. I employed this period of suspense in acquiring the Arabic alphabet, and in otherwise preparing myself for the object in view. On 19th November the wished for permission arrived, and on November 21st I sailed from Malta in the tender for Tripoli, at which place I arrived on the 25th of November, 1818. I found Mr. Ritchie still there, and likely to remain sometime longer. He was residing in the house of the British consul, Colonel Warrington, who received me most hospitably, and invited me to take up my quarters under his roof. Mr. Ritchie’s intention being to proceed to Mourzouk, مرزوك the capital of Fezzan فزّان with the Sultan of that country, his motions were to be regulated by the departure of this person, who, as we learned, was about to take with him a large body of men, for the purpose of waging war on the inhabitants of Waday, واداي (the Borgoo of Brown) which is to the southward and eastward of Fezzan; but as the people of Tripoli were by no means alert in coming forward, and as the Bashaw did not appear much inclined to compel them, no just idea could be formed as to the probable time of our setting off.

Mohammed el Mukni محمد المكني who at Tripoli is called the Bey of Fezzan, (but who takes the title of sultan on entering his own territories), is a man of about fifty years of age, of a fine martial appearance, and of great personal strength; but withal of an insatiable ambition and excessive avarice. He was one of the chief supporters and friends of the Bashaw during the reign of his father, and was afterwards of considerable assistance to him in quelling the disturbances which took place on his usurping the throne. Mukni was at this time in great favour, and considered as a person of much consequence. After his father’s death he became Bey el Noba, or collector of the Bashaw’s tribute from the Sultan of Fezzan, and went thither annually to receive it. Though the tribute was trifling, the office of Bey el Noba was held of great importance. It was while acting in this capacity that Horneman accompanied him to Fezzan. Mukni’s frequent visits to that country gave him opportunities of ascertaining that the sum paid as the tribute was but a very small part of the immense gains of the reigning Sultan; and having once determined on getting the kingdom into his own hands, he soon found means to influence the Bashaw to permit his removing the reigning family, under pretence that such a change would be for the Bashaw’s sole emolument. In 1811, therefore, he took a body of men by the Gharian mountains, and succeeded in reaching Mourzouk undiscovered. The detail of his proceedings would be wholly uninteresting; suffice it to say, that his ambitious views were fully accomplished. He caused the Sultan and his brother to be strangled, as well as the principal Mamluke and his two eldest sons; and pretending that it was unsafe to leave Mourzouk immediately after these acts of cruelty and injustice, he had the address to persuade the Bashaw to appoint him his viceroy, promising to increase the tribute to 15,000 dollars annually, whereas that of the former Sultan did not exceed 5000. Having thus established himself, he waged war on all his defenceless neighbours, and annually carried off 4000 or 5000 slaves. From one of these slave-hunts into Kanem he had just returned to Tripoli, with a numerous body of captives and many camels, and was, in consequence, in the highest favour with the Bashaw.

I learnt on my arrival that Mr. Ritchie had several times had interviews with the Bashaw, to whom he made many valuable presents; and that His Highness was fully informed of his proposed journey and plans respecting the interior. Though Mr. Ritchie himself never communicated with me on this subject, or made known what occurred at these interviews, I have every reason to conclude they were favourable to the object he had in view, and that the protection of the Bashaw, as far as his power extended, was fully ensured to the mission. The Sultan of Fezzan also on his side made the most flattering promises of protection; declaring that he only awaited the opportunity of showing his good will, and that, when arrived in his own dominions, he would act towards Mr. Ritchie as a brother, and assist him in all things to the utmost of his power. After my own introduction to Mukni, I frequently heard him repeat these expressions of regard towards Mr. Ritchie, and they extended also to myself, whom he promised equally to protect and assist.

With so powerful and friendly an ally as we had every reason to consider Mukni, we of course felt perfect security and confidence in the future, and we remained in the firm hope and assurance that all these flattering professions would be fully realised on our arrival in the kingdom of Fezzan. In a few days after I reached Tripoli I was introduced by the British Consul to the Bashaw; but as it was a private audience only, I had no opportunity of witnessing the splendour of his court. As neither Mr. Ritchie nor myself were yet equipped in our Moorish costume, which we were particularly advised by the Bashaw to adopt, we did not appear much in public; but having procured the Consul’s permission to reside in a house once belonging to the Portuguese consulate, we removed there in order to prepare ourselves for our outfit. I furnished myself with a horse and the greater part of my equipments, Mr. Ritchie not possessing sufficient funds for that purpose.

When presented to the Bashaw, it was thought absolutely necessary, by way of adding consequence and respectability to the mission, that I should be styled captain. I was therefore introduced as a Rais, or commander of a ship of war. Had I been supposed to have held an inferior rank, my reception by the great man would not have been so flattering, there being no intermediate gradation known in that country.

On the 5th of December, 1818, having accepted an invitation to pass the evening at the house of the Sheikh el Bled, or Governor of the town, we sent for an old barber to shave our heads; and our beards (which we had suffered to grow, and which now made a respectable appearance), were put in order for the occasion.

Our costume was that of the better class of Tripolines, who have two kinds of dresses; the one long, and worn chiefly by elderly men and persons of great consequence; the other short, and worn generally. For the information of future travellers, I shall enumerate the different articles of clothing.

Short Dress.

Sidrea.—A waistcoat fitting tight to the body, without any opening in front, having only holes for the neck and arms. It is pulled on in the same manner as the Guernsey frock used by seamen.

Farmela is a second waistcoat, open in front, and having broad gold lace and buttons, but no button-holes. It hangs over the sidrea.

Zibboon.—A jacket, the sleeves of which are embroidered. These first three dresses are confined round the waist by the band of the trowsers, which come outside them. A broad belt of silk or gold is then passed round the body. Over the jacket is an embroidered waistcoat without sleeves, called

Bidrïah.—All these dresses may be of different colours, the most brilliant and gaudy being chiefly in request. On walking out, a hooded cloak of very finely spun white wool is thrown over all, and on great occasions a cloth one of the same form, bordered with rich gold lace, is used. This cloak is called Bornouse. The trowsers are immense, and of silk or cloth, according to the pleasure of the wearer.

The Long Dress

Consists of the two under waistcoats: over them is worn a caftan, which is a long gown or robe, embroidered in front and at the sleeves. Over this is worn a

Beneish, which resembles a caftan in shape, but differs in the disposition of the ornaments.

Jerba is a caftan with short sleeves, and is often worn in lieu of the Beneish.

Costume of Tripoli.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

Over these dresses woollen and cloth Bornouses are worn. The turbans are various, according to fancy: shawls of Cashmere, or imitations of those of Europe, are considered as the most splendid. Green turbans, it is well known, can be worn by none who are not shreefs, or descendants of the prophet. Blue, being the colour confined to the Jews, is of course not used in the turbans of the Mohammedans.

In riding out, boots of red, and sometimes yellow Morocco leather are worn, a pad being closely tied round each ankle before putting them on, in order to prevent the large stirrups from hurting the leg. When not riding, yellow slippers, with soles of the same kind as the upper leathers, are used, and are slipped into large solid ones of the same colour with thick soles when walking out. These last are always left at the door on entering a room. Red shoes are also worn by the middle class. The Jews are restricted to black. The trappings of the horse are gaudy, and as cumbrous as those of its rider. The saddles are high before and behind, much the same as those used in Spain. Under them, on the back of the horse, are five or six cloths of different colours, which are so arranged that the edges of each are shown. The saddles are frequently covered with highly embroidered velvet, or richly embossed gilt cases. Over the seat is thrown a saddle-cloth, bordered with gilt lace and embroidery. The stirrups are from a foot to twenty inches in length, and are generally gilt.

Having thus given a sketch of the costume of the Tripoli men, I conceive it necessary to mention that we fully adopted the dress and appearance of Moslems, using all our endeavours to become acquainted with their manners. Mr. Ritchie assumed the name of Yussuf el Ritchie, يوسف الريتشي Belford was called Ali, Dupont Mourad, and I was styled Said ben abd Allah سعيدبن عبدالله. We found no difficulty in procuring a fighi (or clerk) of one of the mosques to visit us at stated periods to instruct us in reading. He also, at my particular request, gave me all the requisite information respecting the ceremonies used in prayer; and when I became perfect in them, I taught them to Mr. Ritchie.

Every thing now seemed to promise well, as far as our residence in Tripoli was concerned; but Mr. Ritchie felt much anxiety respecting a further allowance from government, as we had scarcely more than money sufficient to pay the hire of our camels to Mourzouk, and beyond that place we were uncertain how we could procure a fresh supply for the use of the mission. Mr. Ritchie had brought with him a good deal of merchandize; but, from what he learnt at Tripoli, it was likely to be of little service to us, as it consisted of few or none of the articles of trade most commonly used in the interior.

Sidi Mohammed d’Gheïs, formerly minister to the Bashaw, but who had retired some years since on account of total blindness, showed us every attention, and by his kind assistance afforded us most useful information. He had travelled much in Europe, and was well acquainted with our customs, so that he was perfectly qualified to caution us on many points which, had we remained in ignorance of them, would inevitably have betrayed us to be Christians to the people in the interior.

It would be useless to attempt giving any description of the city of Tripoli, as it has already been done by far more able pens than mine; but of any particular occurrences which attracted my attention during my residence there, I conceive I may be allowed to make mention. The most extraordinary characters are the Marāboots, مرابوت a set of people much spoken of in all Moslem countries; but it strikes me that the requisites necessary to constitute one of these saints are not every where the same. In the interior they consist in keeping up the outward show of sanctity, in abstaining from proscribed liquors, in avoiding improper or profane expressions, in being faithful to the limited number of wives (namely four), and in not intriguing with the wives of other men; whilst in Tripoli such forbearance is by no means considered necessary. The Marāboots there, are of two classes: idiots, who are allowed to say and do whatever they please; and men possessed of all their senses, who, by juggling and performing many bold and disgusting tricks, establish to themselves the exclusive right of being the greatest rogues and nuisances to be met with. There are mosques in which these people assemble every Friday afternoon, and where they eat snakes, scorpions, &c. affecting to be inspired, and committing the greatest extravagancies.

On the 9th of January, 1819, their annual festival began, and continued for three days, with all its barbarous ceremonies. On, or rather before this day, the great Marāboot is supposed to inspire those who are to appear in the processions, and who, according to their abilities, are more or less mad and furious. The natural fools are always ready for the exhibition; and it is amusing to observe their looks of astonishment at being on that day, more than any other, brought into notice. During the time the Marāboots (who are guarded and attended by a great number of people) are allowed to parade the streets, no Christians or Jews can with any safety make their appearance, as they would, if once in the power of these wretches, be instantly torn to pieces; indeed, wherever they show themselves on their terraces or from windows, they are sure of a plentiful shower of stones from the boys who are in attendance.

As I was in the dress of the country, and very anxious to witness the whole of the ceremonies, I ventured to go out with our Dragoman, and to make my way to the mosque from which the procession was to set out. I certainly felt that my situation was a very dangerous one; but being resolved on the attempt, and telling the man to follow me closely, I dashed in with the crowd, and succeeded in getting near the Saints, who, with dishevelled hair, were rapidly turning round, and working themselves into a most alarming state of frenzy. A band of barbarous music was playing to them, while several men were constantly employed in sprinkling them with rose-water. Had I been discovered, my life would have been in very great jeopardy; but fortunately I was able to keep my countenance, and to pass unnoticed; and when the performers were sufficiently inspired, sallied out with them, and followed through the streets. One had a large nail run through his face from one cheek to the other; and all had bitten their tongues in so violent a manner as to cause blood and saliva to flow copiously. They were half naked, at intervals uttering short groans and howls; and as they proceeded (sometimes three or four abreast leaning on each other,) they threw their heads backwards and forwards with a quick motion, which caused the blood to rise in their faces, and their eyes to project from the sockets to a frightful degree. Their long black hair, which grew from the crown of the head (the other parts being closely shaven), was continually waving to and fro, owing to the motion of the head. One or two, who were the most furious, and who continually attempted to run at the crowd, were held by a man on each side, by means of a rope, or a handkerchief tied round the middle. As we passed through one of the streets, a party of Maltese and other Christians were discovered on a terrace, and were instantly assailed by showers of stones. I observed that whenever the Marāboots passed the house of a Christian, they affected to be ungovernable, and endeavoured to get near it, pretending they made the discovery by smelling out Unbelievers. After following for an hour or two, during which I witnessed the most horrible and revolting scenes, I returned home, when, to my great amusement, I learnt that a rumour prevailed of my having been attacked and very ill treated; and that I had, in defending myself, stabbed a Marāboot, and ran away, no one knew whither. I was happy to be enabled in person to contradict these reports, and to prove that I had escaped not only unhurt, but unobserved. There were two parties who traversed the town; but from their being of opposite sects, and at war with each other, it was so arranged that they should take different routes.

That which I did not see was the superior one, and took its departure from under the walls of the castle. It was headed by a man named Mohammed, who had been much at our house, going on errands, and attending our horses. I did not, until afterwards, know he was so celebrated a character. Before the time of the procession he was confined in a dungeon, in consequence of his becoming very furious. When all was in readiness for the ceremony, the Bashaw took his station in the balcony overlooking the Arsenal, and this man was set at liberty, when he rushed on an ass, and with one thrust pushed his hand into the animal’s side, from which he tore its bowels, and began to devour them. Many eat dogs, and other animals; and on that day a little Jew boy was killed in the street, either by the Marāboots or their followers.

As the power of taking up serpents and scorpions is supposed to constitute a Marāboot, I determined on acquiring that honorable title. Mr. Ritchie bought some snakes, which we all learnt to handle, and I soon found out an effectual way of taking up the largest scorpions without the slightest chance of being stung. However, in order to observe the ceremonies practised by these pretended saints, I sent a servant in search of one of the most celebrated, under pretence of wishing myself to become a Marāboot. This fellow went through numberless prayers and ceremonies, spitting in my hands, taking rose-water in his mouth, and sprinkling my face with it, reciting occasional prayers, and then washing his own mouth and hands in rose-water. After bottling up this sacred fluid, he told me to drink it on a particular day, which he named, and I then should be as highly gifted as himself; thus concluding his instructions, which, of course, I did not think myself bound to observe.

There are two grand markets held weekly, one on the sands behind the town every Tuesday, and the other on Fridays, about four miles distance, amongst the gardens of the Meshea مشيه which form a stripe of about three or four miles in breadth, between the beach and the desert.

In the town are Bazaars, which are open every day. These are streets, covered in overhead. The shops of merchants are ranged on each side, and are very small. Slaves and goods are carried about before the traders by auctioneers, who keep up a continual din, each calling the price last bidden. The Jews have a quarter of the town expressly to themselves, where they have their shops, and in which they are shut up every evening at sunset. This place is called Zanga t’el Yahood زنقامتا اليحود. These people are much persecuted, yet they contrive to engross all the trade and places of profit. They are forbidden, as I before observed, to wear gaudy clothes, and are only allowed turbans of blue.

Several houses set apart for the reception of merchants and their goods are called Fondook, فندوك and answer to the description given of the Caravanseras of the East. There are a few schools at which reading and writing, though to no great extent, are taught in a very noisy manner. A knowledge of letters, however, is by no means necessary to constitute a great man, or to advance him to any post of trust: of this there exists an example in the present minister, Sidi Hamet (who was formerly Rais el Marsa, or Captain of the port), and who can neither read nor write. We had often heard this circumstance, and one day put into his hands the Koran, with the wrong side uppermost, begging him to repeat to us a few lines of it. He evaded our request by pretending to read to himself for a short time, with the book still turned the wrong way; when assuming a very sagacious look, he returned it to us, observing, that “it was very well written,” and thus convincing us we had not been misinformed respecting his ignorance. The Sheikh el Bled, or Governor of the town, is considered a very good scholar, and ready accountant, though he was once a boatman in the harbour. The contrast between the rigidity of some Moslems, and the indifference of others respecting association with Christians, is curiously exemplified in this man. He had sent his son to learn Italian under a Roman Catholic priest, without at all disguising the circumstance.

Drunkenness is more common in Tripoli than even in most towns in England. There are public wine-houses, at the doors of which the Moors sit and drink without any scruple; and the Saldanah, or place of the guard, is seldom without a few drunkards. The greater part of the better sort of people also drink very hard; but their favourite beverage is Rosolia, an Italian cordial, and it is not uncommon for visitors, when making calls, to give unequivocal hints that a little rum would be well received. Prostitutes are in large numbers, and are obliged (if known to be such) to live in a particular part of the town (called Zanga t’el Ghaab زنقامت الغعب or quarter of the prostitutes), under a Chowse, or superintendent, appointed expressly for that purpose. These women are obliged daily to supply food for the Bashaw’s dogs which guard the Arsenal.

A kind of bad Italian is generally spoken by the Inhabitants of the town; so that Christians have not much difficulty in transacting business.

I observed a singular custom to be prevalent amongst all Moors and Arabs, from the Bashaw down to the poorest camel-driver, which is that of eructation, and which they perform as often and as loudly as possible. Great men go through this ceremony with a solemnity and dignity altogether imposing; stroking their beards, and thanking God for the great relief they have obtained. Mukni was quite a professor in this way; and his little son Yussuf (a boy of about eight years of age,) promised fair to be equally accomplished. Both of the last mentioned personages had also a peculiar way of blowing their noses in the ends of their turbans.

Mamlukes (who are either renegades, or purchased slaves from Georgia or Circassia), enjoy the highest offices; and the Bashaw’s daughters are not permitted to marry any others. The Admiral of the fleet is a Mamluke, a Scotchman by birth, and now named Mourad Rais. He was in banishment during our stay at Tripoli; but we learnt from the Consul and chief people that he bore an excellent character.

The public Baths are of the same kind as those said to be used in Turkey and Egypt; although not so magnificent in point of ornament or size. The bather, on stripping, is girded round the middle with a linen cloth, and one also is thrown over the shoulders, which is taken off on entering the vapour chamber. This is a large circular room, having a dome, through which the light is admitted by many small holes well stopped with glass, and by which means the air is entirely excluded. The light is much obscured by the vapour, which constantly rises; lamps are therefore kept burning, those who first enter being for a time unable to see their way. Round the sides of the chamber are raised broad stone benches, and a large square place of the same description is in the centre; under these are the fires which heat the bath, and it is necessary to lie down on them in order to become ready for the operations of the men whose business it is to rub and clean the bathers. Water is then thrown over the body, so as to induce a quicker perspiration. The heat is excessive, and we had no Thermometer highly enough graduated to ascertain the temperature. When a sufficient time has elapsed to produce languor and strong perspiration, an assistant approaches and rubs the skin with a glove of hair, in such a way as to cause the cuticle to peel off in large dark rolls, however clean and white the skin may have appeared previously to this operation. He then proceeds to shampooing (called Temerse تمرس). The operations having thus finished, some soap is brought to the bather, and he remains sitting under a spout of warm water as long as he pleases. Dry cloths are then brought to him, and being well wrapped up, he is conducted to an outer room, where pipes and coffee are placed before him, with incense to perfume the beard, after which he dresses and sallies out. The price for the bath alone, without soap, is about five pence; though it was always more expensive to us than to the natives. The men come in the morning, and the women in the afternoon.

When the Bashaw rides to the Messhia, or gardens behind the town, he is accompanied by his sons, and a large troop of horsemen, consisting of Mamlukes and the principal people of his court, well mounted and splendidly attired. They ride in a confused body round his person, and have no idea of regularity in their motions. A few occasionally leave the main troop at full speed, screaming and making flourishes with their muskets, which they discharge, and then return to their ranks. On re-entering the town, the whole party charge in groups of ten or twelve, each firing while the horses are in full speed, which has an exceeding pretty effect. The horses (who are trained to the practice), as soon as they hear the explosion, turn suddenly round on their haunches, and canter back to the place from which they started. The beach being of hard sand, is admirably adapted for these manœuvres.

More than half of the guards are black, and as they are all dressed differently, their appearance is very curious. No uniformity is observed either in the shape or colour of their horses, whose bits are so severe, that they are seldom without raw and bleeding mouths. The stirrups (which act as spurs) are used so roughly as frequently to leave large gashes in the poor animal’s flanks. It is considered highly ornamental to brand the thighs of horses with lines and stars.

The mode of punishment at Tripoli (and, I believe, all other Mohammedan towns), is totally different from any of those practised by Europeans. Some crimes are considered capital by law; but many are rendered so by the whim of the Bashaw, in which case, hanging, decapitating, and strangling are used. The Moors are never employed as hangmen; but the first Jew who happens to be at hand has that office conferred upon him, and is obliged to accompany the culprit to the ramparts over the town gate, attended by the guards and mob, when he puts on the rope well or ill according to his ability, attaching it to a bolt fixed in the wall for that purpose. The unfortunate victim is then forced through an embrazure, and suspended by the side of the gateway, so as to be seen by all who enter or leave the town. When decapitation is the punishment, the head alone is exposed to public view.

Torture is not unfrequently made use of; but as all punishments of that kind are confined to the dungeons of the castle, no one can or dares give any description of the nature of it. Theft (as presented by the Koran) is punished by cutting off a hand, and, if to a very great extent, a foot also; but repeated offences of this kind extend sometimes to an amputation of the other hand or foot, and I once saw a man, who, for a capital crime, had been mutilated in this manner. The operation is performed with a razor. The limb is first tied tight above the joint with a piece of cord, and the hand or foot is taken out of the socket of the wrist or ankle joint. The stump is then dipped into hot pitch, and the sufferer is permitted to go away with his friends; and it is astonishing how soon he recovers without any other dressing than the one which I have mentioned. Beating with a stick on the posteriors or soles of the feet is the general punishment for minor offences; although in some cases it is so severe as to occasion death. Four or five hundred lashes are frequently given; but fifty is about the general allowance. Some culprits, who, by bribery, or other means, are able to influence the persons employed to see the sentence executed, contrive to stuff their trowsers so as to escape without much suffering. This punishment is inflicted equally on all ranks, at the pleasure of the Bashaw; and should even his own sons, his Minister, or the Sheikh of the town, displease him, they would be obliged to submit to it, as well as the lowest of his subjects; nor would they consider themselves at all degraded, or their dignity in any degree lessened by it.

Tripoli Costume.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

We had resided some time in Tripoli before I had an opportunity of seeing any other costume of the women than their walking dress. This consists of a Barracan (or wrapper, like that which the Arabs wear, and which I shall describe when speaking of the costume of those people), so arranged as to envelope the body and head, and merely to show one eye; they also wear red boots, and yellow or red slippers when in their houses. The dress of the women of the better class is magnificent; consisting of a silk shirt of many colours in stripes, a highly embroidered waistcoat, silk trowsers, and a Barracan also of silk or fine cotton of the most gaudy colours, which is so put on as to form a species of petticoat, as well as to hang gracefully over the head and shoulders. A cap of cloth of gold is worn with many rich ornaments on the head. The eyelids are stained with Antimony, which gives an enlarged appearance to the eye, and increases its brilliancy. The brows are plucked so as to be quite straight, and squared off at each end. Much rouge is used; and gold and silver ornaments of great weight are worn in the ears, and suspended from the head, as well as large bracelets and anklets of the same metals. The garb of the Jewish women varies but little from that of the Moslems; their full dress is exactly the same, but their walking dress, instead of showing one eye, exhibits both. They can wear only black or yellow slippers, and boots are prohibited.

The coin, which is now and has for some years been current in Tripoli, has only fourteen per cent. of silver in it, and is daily decreasing in value.

Near the sea gate are the remains of a fine square Roman building, which now has its arches filled up, and is used as a store-house[1].

The Tripoline Marriages are, I understand, (for no man is allowed to see them,) conducted with great splendour; the night is the time chosen for the bride to be conveyed to the house of her husband, when she is attended by a large troop of women, who carry torches, and utter loud and repeated cries of joy.

Triumphal Arch, Tripoli.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

Their Burials have nothing remarkable; the body being merely put into a shell, which is covered with a cloth, having sentences of the Koran worked round the edges. The friends of the deceased follow in a hurried manner, singing verses and religious sentences. The grave of a man is as usual distinguished by a pillar of stone, having a turban carved on it, placed at the head. The funerals of women are in some cases far more interesting, and are conducted with a considerable degree of pomp and ceremony. One instance of this, I witnessed myself. It was the daughter of the Minister, and grand-daughter of the Bashaw, whom I saw carried to the grave. Her coffin was covered with a rich purple cloth, embroidered with gold, and having large golden characters from the Koran sewed on it. At the head was placed a large nosegay of the choicest and most beautiful flowers; the clothes and many costly ornaments of the deceased were laid on the coffin; and the accumulation of rich waistcoats, shirts, caps, &c. had a most splendid effect. The mourners carried bunches of flowers in their hands, and, in contrast to the shining decorations of the bier, were dressed in soiled and old clothes, without antimony on their eyelids, and, in fact, studiously avoiding the use of any ornaments. The Minister himself headed the procession, and although not in general considered a man of very acute feelings, appeared in this instance much affected. It is the custom at all funerals to liberate one or more slaves, who may at the time belong to the family of the departed; and it is equally a rule to distribute food amongst the poor, who, on these occasions, never fail to attend in great numbers. These offerings are of course regulated by the comparative wealth or poverty of the donors; but those persons are considered as most meritorious who incur the greatest expense in honour of their deceased relative. There are women whose sole employment it is to attend the house of mourning, where they howl, lament, and tear their hair and faces in a barbarous manner. Their cries continue with very little intermission during three days, and the additional din occasioned by their repeatedly beating wooden boxes or pots is truly horrible. The customs and ceremonies used on these occasions, with many other interesting subjects relating to Tripoli, are so faithfully and pleasingly described in Tully’s narrative[2], that they render any further observations on my part unnecessary.

Mr. Ritchie, finding that Mukni still delayed his departure, and that some weeks might yet elapse before he commenced his journey, determined on employing the intermediate time in visiting Benioleed and the Gharian mountains. For this purpose he procured a Chowse, a person employed by the Bashaw to collect the revenues, and hired two camels to carry our provisions and baggage.

At this time M. Dupont thought fit to resign the office which he had pledged himself to fulfil, and abruptly left Mr. Ritchie, influenced, as we had reason to think, by the advice and suggestions of some of his supposed friends. Not wishing to revive a subject so little creditable to those who influenced the conduct of M. Dupont, I shall only observe, that the petty intrigues which were carried on in order to detract from the merits of the mission, and eventually to obstruct its progress, were most disgraceful.

journey to the gharian mountains and benioleed.

Sunday, February 7th, 1819.—Leaving Belford in charge of our house, we quitted Tripoli at 10.5. A.M. and after passing through the gardens of the Meshea مشيه at eleven arrived on the desert to the southward of them, near the tomb of the Marāboot Seyd سعيد who is spoken of in the “Letters from Tripoli.” The sand here rises in irregular hills, and is totally barren, not the slightest traces of vegetation being perceptible. We continued travelling over this until five o’clock, when we came to small spots of grass and shrubs, on which flocks were feeding, and where a few Bedouins had pitched their tents. We waited here for our camels, having directed our course south south-west about fifteen miles, and on their coming up, pitched our tents near a well on the plain. The Chowse ordered us a supper, from the Sheikh of the Arabs, and we soon had a smoking bowl of Bazeen and lamb. All the young girls came to stare at us and our tents, as something quite new to them.

Monday, 8th February.—At eight we started, and travelled south-west by south over a country nearly desert, until ten, when we passed a few corn-fields, and a pretty plain covered with tents and flocks. Here we stopped to examine the ruins of the Castle of Mejnine مجنين. This was once used as a frontier post for the troops of the Bashaw, who kept the rebel Arab tribes in check; but having been built of mud and small stones, the rains have now washed it nearly away: part of the walls only and a gate are still standing. From this place we had a fine view of the Gharian mountains, and observed that several hills in the range were in a conical form. On leaving it, we proceeded until 1.30. P.M. when we stopped at a tent by the invitation of an Arab, who had ridden the preceding day in our company. He gave us a hearty welcome, and set before us a large wooden bowl of dates, mashed up with hot oil, which we found very good; its appearance was not unlike soft soap. The women sat behind a carpet, and peeped at us through a small hole in it. After quitting our kind host, we crossed the broad bed of a water-course, when our road lay between two mountains, the right hand one being called Smeeran سميران and that on the left Batus بتس distant from each other about one mile and a half. Here the ground began to rise a little, and greater quantities of herbage appeared. We travelled on in hopes of finding a well until 4.30., but without success; we therefore pitched our tents on a little rising ground, near some Arabs, and after much trouble, succeeded in purchasing a skin or two of water for our horses. The Sheikh provided an excellent supper of Bazeen and stewed lamb for us; and we had a full tent of Arabs squatted on their heels, who came to look at us whilst we were eating. After our dinner we made a little coffee, which, as well as our European cups, excited much astonishment. We offered some to the Sheikh, who not knowing what it was, suspected some treachery, and at first refused to take it; however, by a little persuasion, we overcame his prejudice, and seeing that we ourselves drank some, he at length swallowed it with confidence. One of the party, on tasting some, spat it out in horror, calling loudly on the Prophet, “Ya Rassoul Illa يارسول الله Oh, Prophet of God!” A third was so much pleased with it, and became so great a connoisseur, that he absolutely refused a second cup, because it was too cold. A Kaleidoscope was handed round to the visitors, and excited general admiration and amazement; like children, they quarrelled for their turns to look through it, and if I might judge from the repeated laughter and exclamations made use of, many extraordinary observations were made on the subject. The old Sheikh in particular would scarcely bear to have it taken out of his hand.

Jackals and hyænas are very numerous here; but the quantity of noisy dogs which attend the flocks keep them in awe, whilst they also kept us half the night awake.

Tuesday, 9th February.—At 7, A.M. we struck our tents, and went on for Gharian. The country here had quite changed its appearance. The paths, which in many places were covered with broken basalt, were uneven and difficult; and the ground became steep and irregular as we approached the foot of the mountains. At three we rode a little to the left of the track, and fastening our horses, climbed a small conical mountain of basalt, having very little earth at the top of it, and called El Kelb Assoud اكلب اسود or “the Black Dog.” Near this were two or three smaller hillocks, also entirely of basalt. Our road was through a barren, but beautiful and romantic valley, at the foot of the mountains. At ten we arrived at the foot of the Gharian Pass. This spot is encompassed on three sides by lofty mountains, and opens to the north-east. There are some scattered palms here, and a clear stream winds among them. Here a small Kafflé passed us, consisting of ten or twelve camels, and amongst them one or two Maherries, laden with Trona, or soda, الطرون from Fezzan. Their owners were brown, wild looking men, and appeared of a different cast from the Arabs of Tripoli. In this little valley, about ten years since, the Hasnadar, or Treasurer of the Bashaw, was murdered. He was on his way to collect tribute from the mountaineers (which, in those days, was rarely obtained but by force); and, as the Bashaw had newly made peace with them, he was but poorly attended. Whilst performing his ablutions and shaving his head, he was fired at and killed by some men stationed on the rocky pass, who again ascended their mountain. His party returned to Tripoli, and war was immediately declared. The Bashaw caused a numerous army to be fitted out to quell the insurgents, who, being joined by other discontented tribes, prepared for a vigorous resistance. Owing to the bravery of these people, and the natural strength of their passes and fastnesses, the Bashaw’s army were some weeks before they could ascend the mountains, and during that period many of them were killed. When at last they succeeded in taking possession, they exercised on the poor wretches every species of cruelty, suffocating them in their subterraneous habitations, by throwing into them heaps of wood and straw, and then setting fire to them. Twelve camels, laden with heads to the amount of two thousand, were sent into Tripoli as a token of triumph. These mountaineers have since conducted themselves peaceably; though before their defeat they were so much dreaded, that all communication through their country to the interior was cut off, and few people would venture amongst them. We were an hour in ascending the pass, which was the most difficult and dangerous I ever saw. The rocks were worn so smooth as to render it necessary for us to bestow constant attention on our horses, which we were obliged to lead; one false step would otherwise, in some places, have precipitated them down the side of the mountain. The camels, however, with their persevering pace, arrived at the top as soon as we did. Near the place where we stopped was a Tower, with loopholes for musketry. This, with many others of the same description, was erected by the Bashaw on the conquest of the mountain, that his troops might be enabled to overawe the natives; but as he never stations any forces there, his purposes will only operate against himself, and enable the Arabs to defend their mountains with greater obstinacy, should they ever so far recover from their defeat as again to resist his unjust demands. We stopped at a nest, I cannot call it village, where all the habitations are under-ground. The Sheikh, on hearing we were under the protection of the Bashaw, came to welcome us, and gave us the only hut the place afforded, in which we placed our people and camel loads. As for ourselves, we preferred clearing part of the farm yard, and pitching our tent in it, surrounded by our horses and camels. This place is called Beni abbās بني ابّعس. As the natives live, as I have observed, under-ground, a person unacquainted with the circumstance might cross the mountain without once suspecting that it was inhabited. All the dwelling-places being formed in the same manner, a description of the Sheikh’s may suffice for the rest. The upper soil is sandy earth, of about four feet in depth; under this sand, and in some places limestone, a large hole is dug, to the depth of twenty-five or thirty feet, and its breadth in every direction is about the same, being as nearly as can be made, a perfect square. The rock is then smoothed so as to form perpendicular sides to this space, in which doors are cut through, and arched chambers excavated, so as to receive their light from the doors. These rooms are sometimes three or four of a side, in others a whole side composes one; the arrangements depending on the number of the inhabitants. In the open court is generally a well, water being found at about ten or twelve feet below the base of the square. The entrance to the house is at about thirty-six yards from the pit, and opens above ground. It is arched overhead; is generally cut in a winding direction, and is perfectly dark. Some of these passages are sufficiently large to admit a loaded camel. The entrance has a strong wall built over it, something resembling an ice-house. This is covered overhead, and has a very strong heavy door, which is shut at night, or in cases of danger. At about ten yards from the bottom is another door, equally strong, so that it is almost impossible to enter these houses, should the inhabitants determine to resist. Few Arab attacks last long enough to end in a siege. All their sheep and poultry being confined in the house at night, the Bashaw’s army, when here, had recourse to suffocating the inmates, being unable to starve them out.

The mountain top spreads from this village on to a fine plain, of a mile or two in length, which is in the highest state of cultivation. Corn and saffron fields covered with venerable olive trees yield a delightful and novel prospect, to which the wildness of the surrounding mountains contributes its share. The elevated situation of these mountains prevents the cultivation of palms. Apple and almond trees were planted in such little ledges of the rocks as were too narrow for grain, and were at this time covered with blossoms. From a crag above the pass we had a most extensive view of the country over which we had travelled in coming from Tripoli. The Kelb Assoud, or Black Dog, lay north-east of us, about six miles on the plain below. All the remarkable places which we had traversed were quite distinguishable, and even a part of the sandy desert behind Tripoli; but the sea, which the natives said was often discernible, was hidden from us by the vapour arising from the sands.

The young men of the Douar, or village, took great delight in doing the honours of their beautiful country, jumping from rock to rock like goats, and appearing a most active, hardy set of people. My very limited knowledge of the language was a source of continual regret to me; and I believe the trip to these mountains caused me afterwards to apply with more assiduity to improve myself in it.

We returned with a keen appetite to our dinner, which consisted of bazeen, hard eggs, and mutton, and at which the Sheikh waited on us. The Chowse and our servant impudently volunteered their company, and became our messmates for the rest of the journey. The mutton and eggs being despatched, the broth, seasoned with plenty of red pepper, was poured scalding over the bazeen, and every one fell to work with extraordinary activity.

It is a point of great politeness with the Arabs to tear the meat for a stranger, as well as to squeeze up the bazeen with the sauce for him; and as this is sometimes done with rather unsavoury fingers, hunger becomes an absolute requisite to induce a novice to touch an Arab meal.

Our tent was in the evening filled by visitors, who squatted down, and were much delighted with what few wonders we had to exhibit to them. The principal of these was a loadstone, which drew a penknife out of its case, and which was consequently a subject of much speculation and whispering.

The Sheikh, who really appeared a superior kind of man, was all attention and kindness; but whether from fear of the Bashaw’s Chowse, or a real wish to be of service to us, I know not. I rather suspect the former motive, since dread of their masters, and love of presents, operate equally on the mind of Arabs. We had for our supper a kind of paste called Hatria, which resembles macaroni, and is considered a dish of honour.

In the evening we were joined by a fine, bold, soldier-looking man, who was on a visit, and who was Sheikh of Battus, (a mountain, mentioned in a former page), inhabited during a few months in the year by shepherds, and those who go there to gather in their harvest. This person and myself became great friends, and from our conversation being chiefly in pantomime, we afforded no little amusement to the rest of the party. He invited us to go and hunt on his mountain, promising me a truly Arab present, viz. a young wolf and fox. He told us that a thousand years ago the Christians established themselves on his mountain, but were unable to remain there more than forty days; an evident proof of their inferiority to his tribe, which was commanded by one of his ancestors, and which then lived on Battus, though they have since become wanderers. My new acquaintance was elegantly armed, having an embroidered belt, silver scabbarded sword, and well mounted pistols. He had received a wound in his arm in the mountain wars (when his tribe resisted the Bashaw), and imagined this to be the cause of a cough which at times troubled him. He was not well pleased with our laughing at his way of accounting for his complaint.

All the dogs here being white, the liver-coloured pointers which had followed us from the Consulate caused the women and children to fly on their approach, from the idea that they were wolves.

There are many Jews living in these mountains, whose dwellings are much cleaner and better excavated than those of the Arabs, and are also neatly whitewashed. These people, as in Tripoli, are the only handicraftsmen, and seem here to be rather better treated than elsewhere.

It rained very hard this night, and was very cold; but under shelter of our tent we kept ourselves warm and dry. From the village we had observed a mountain called Tekoot طكوت, to bear south 23° west.

Wednesday, February 10th.—At 7.10. A.M. we left Beni abbās, and went on for the Castle of Gharian, or Gusser Turk قسرطيرك. After having proceeded over the plain, and reached the mountains that rise from it, we climbed a steep peak, and making our way along a sharp ledge on its top, again ascended to the mountain of Tekoot, the principal of the range. From this point we took the bearings of the following remarkable objects: Beni abbās, north 33° east. Gusser Turk, south 35° west. A mountain called Meroobi, south 55° east, and another mountain, west 5° south, distant about twenty-five miles, inhabited at this time by a rebel tribe under a chief called Kalēefa. Owing to the height of the spot on which we stood, we found it difficult to distinguish many objects, which from the plain had appeared very conspicuous. Unfortunately, before we ascended this mountain we had broken our Barometer, and were thence unable to ascertain its precise elevation. Here is the tomb of a Marāboot, whose sanctity is the subject of many extraordinary stories.

It was from hence that the Arabs, when they declared war against the Bashaw (which formerly happened very frequently), announced their rising to their allies and neighbouring tribes, by signals of a fire at night, and a smoke by day. Three poor Arabs followed us up the mountain, pointing out to us the most remarkable surrounding objects: they gathered for us some small black berries from a low thorny tree, with yellow flowers, which they called Dummagh ظمّاح or “brains,” and which had an astringent taste, somewhat resembling that of a ripe sloe, but the fruit was much smaller. They told us that the Arabs of Gharian always spoke with gratitude of the English Consul, who had once persuaded the Bashaw not to increase their tribute, as he intended.

At noon we arrived at a cluster of nests called El Guasem القاسو about six miles from Beni abbās: all the habitations of this place are of the same kind as those already described; we, however, found a small uninhabited shed above ground, situated at the foot of a little turret, where we deposited our goods, and determined on passing the night. From the inscriptions which we found in this building, it must be about 150 years old. The present Bashaw, his father, grand and great grandfather, had all slept in the smoky corner, of which we now took possession. The turret itself is constructed in a mode common to many others in these mountains. At about half way down one of the subterranean passages, a hole is cut upwards in an awkward way through the rock into the first floor of the turret, which is even with the ground, and perfectly dark, except where here and there a small stone is pushed out to make way for the muzzle of a musket. From this floor is an ascent to one, two, or three stories, by means of pieces of stick placed in the walls. Each floor consists of branches of trees, most alarmingly elastic, and the door of entrance from one to the other is a small hole, through which a person has to force himself upwards. All these military buildings manifest a noble contempt of architectural skill, or neatness. On the side of a small hill near the village are caves of some magnitude, from which good millstones are procured. At this place we fared as we did the evening before, though the Chowse had a most vociferous conversation with the Sheikh before he could get any barley for the horses. We were well sheltered, and sufficiently warm, for we had a good fire in the centre of the hut, and slept at one end of it, while our people and the Chowse’s mare occupied the other. It rained very hard all night.

Thursday, February 11th.—At 7 A.M. we started, after making the Sheikh a present, and wound along amongst the mountains in the direction of the castle. Tekoot, bearing north three miles, we discovered a Roman building in the form of a tomb, or perhaps a very large altar; it was about twelve feet square, standing on two or three broad steps, which seem to have had a neat cornice. From the present appearance of the ruins, the original building must have been ten or twelve feet in height. We could discern no inscription. Our road hence was once more over very difficult passes, from which we expected to have had a delightful view, but the mountains, to our great regret, became obscured by a thick mist.

These mountains separated into a deep romantic valley, which appeared to run immediately down to the desert. The tops were in a very superior state of cultivation; figs, olives, and vines flourishing on every spot which had sufficient earth to nourish them. We observed many of the trees ornamented with the skulls of horses, camels, or sheep, to protect the tree and its fruit from being blasted by the “Evil Eye.” At two we came to the castle, an immense ill-constructed building of rough stones, having a turret at each corner, an open court, and stalls for horses, embrasures for cannon (closed up with mud), and here and there a loophole for musketry. There are five or six six-pounders upset, and honeycombed, to make a show; but I conceive the Bashaw would find no one daring enough to fire them. The key of the castle (which is never used but by the Kaid when he comes to collect tribute for the Bey, to whom Gharian belongs), is kept by a neighbouring Sheikh. Our Chowse was here of great importance, for being in the service of the Bey, all the Arabs came to kiss his hands, and bring him presents, and he consequently assumed a very dignified and solemn demeanour. At night one of our camel boys, who had the office of porter assigned to him, brought the key of the gate to the Chowse, and reported all right. We were informed very seriously, that the room in which we slept was haunted by a Ghole, and several devils, in consequence of some prisoners having had their throats cut there a short time before.

Friday, February 12th.—Our porter had been so very careful over night, that we were half an hour unlocking, unbarring, and unbolting, before we could get out. Mr. Ritchie and myself then sallied forth, he to botanize, and I with my gun in search of animals called Gundy قندي. After lying down flat in the rain for three or four hours, I was fortunate enough to shoot three, which I prepared, in order that they might be sent to the British Museum, and I believe they will be the first of the species known in Europe. These animals resemble very much a Guinea pig in form, but are of a light-brown mouse colour. The fur is longer than that of a rat, and is very silky; the eyes are black, large, and prominent; the orifices of the ears (which are quite flat against the side of the head) are also black, and free from hair; the tail, or rather a little stump resembling one, is just perceptible to the touch, and from it grows a bunch or tuft of long black hair. The body is very round and fat, and particularly broad at the shoulders. These animals burrow amongst the rocks. They are eaten with great relish by the Arabs, and no doubt are very good, as the flesh is exceedingly white and fat, and resembles that of a rabbit.

At about half a mile from the castle is a place called Tghrasat تغراسات at which a Bazaar is held weekly, and whither all the mountaineers resort. At two we passed this place, and went about four miles south to a village called Tegerinna طجرنّه, where the inhabitants live above as well as under ground. We pitched our tents in a saffron field, and had our horses shod by a Jew blacksmith. He afterwards prepared in his house a fine lamb, and very white bread, for our dinners, of which the Chowse pocketed all we did not eat. We made the poor man a present, to his great astonishment; for no one, if he can avoid it, performs any act of kindness to these persecuted people. In the evening we had many visitors, amongst others the Sheikh, who was all curiosity, and ready for as many presents as we chose to make him.

From this place, three other above-ground villages bore south by west two miles. They were called Usadena. The inhabitants, male and female, had all been murdered on the Bashaw’s conquering the country, and the buildings were entirely ruined.

Gharian is famed for the excellence of its oil, the richness of its saffron, which is produced in great quantities, and the goodness of its corn. The people are fine, well made men, and have an air of freedom, which their change of circumstances has not been able to conquer. In collecting the tribute for the Bey, each man pays in kind a certain portion of his harvest. The Jews are employed to weigh and prepare the Bey’s share, and are well paid by the Arabs, in order that they may give short measure; for although using false weights is by the law of Mohammed a heinous crime, yet they fancy the sin is not incurred if the Jews defraud for them.

Of the dress, food, &c. of the Arabs, I shall treat more fully in a future page.

Saturday, 13th February.—At seven A.M. we left this delightful spot for Benioleed. Our road was through very difficult passes in the mountains, where we found some rain water, with which we filled our gerbas, or water-skins, with a sufficient supply for three days.

Our road the latter part of this day lay over a barren, stony plain; and having proceeded south 40° east twenty-five miles, we encamped at sunset in a small valley amongst some bushes. Our fellow travellers, after prefacing their stories by boasting of their own courage and expertness in fighting, gave us most frightful accounts of the banditti who were said to frequent this track; but how these rogues, or any one else, could manage to exist at all in such a place, was a riddle which our friends could not explain. Muskets and pistols were laid at the Chowse’s head, and two bottles of wine were drank to fortify his stomach, so that he slept undisturbed through the night.

Sunday, 14th.—The country onward presented one unvaried scene of desolation: not a living creature appeared during the day; but at night the jackals kept up a continual howling. At noon, we passed a deep ravine, for about eight miles, of basalt, which appeared as if it had been rent open by some convulsion of nature. At five, we crossed a dry water-course, and stopped on its bank for the night amongst some stunted bushes. We made this day, south 40° east, thirty miles.

Monday, 15th February.—At four A.M. made on for Benioleed. We passed occasionally over mountains and gravelly plains, generally coming again to the side of a large Wadey, or ravine, in which there was some appearance of verdure. Many coveys of red-legged partridges flew by us. After winding along a Wadey for an hour or two, we arrived at Benioleed بنيوليد, at two P.M., ourselves and animals much fatigued: we had made, south 50° east, twenty-five miles. We took up our quarters in the house, or rather in the stable of the house, of the Sheikh. Here we paid our guide, who came with us from Gharian, and who was a feeble man in appearance, but a most persevering walker. He never would sleep in our tent, but preferred lying in the open air, though the Thermometer was generally at the freezing point, with no other covering than his Barracan, not even a shirt.

Tuesday, 16th February.—We walked out to see the houses, which are built on each side of the Wadey of rough stones: none are above eight feet in height; they have no windows, but receive their light through the doors; and all look like heaps of ruins. The inhabitants are Arabs of the tribe Orfilly الفلّي, and are a fine handsome race of people. The young girls are really beautiful.

These poor Arabs are dreadfully oppressed by the Bashaw, who has reduced them all to a most miserable state of poverty. Those who remain in the country are in rags; the others who let their camels out to hire, and accompany traders to the interior, are somewhat better off. They were once a brave daring set of men, who defied the government of Tripoli; and, during the youth of the present Bashaw, fully protected him from his father’s troops. Their services to him have, however, been but ill requited; for he persecutes them more than any others of his subjects. They have (and I believe not without deserving it) the character of being the greatest robbers and rogues in the neighbourhood of Tripoli.

The Wadey produces but little corn, as the crops are all sown in the desert to the eastward; and in harvest time the owners go in bodies to bring in the grain. Much oil is made here, and the palms and olive-trees are very flourishing. We observed that of the latter there were no young trees, and learnt that the Bashaw taxed them, wherever found, as large ones,—a system, which, if pursued, will in a few years more destroy all the olive groves in his dominions.

The water here is excellent; the wells are of great depth, many being 100 feet, and others above 200 feet: in fact, the labour requisite in drawing water, makes it a scarce article. This is the most southerly town in the Bashaw’s dominions on the road to Fezzan, to which it is nearer than the other routes.

I took a drawing of the valley, which very much amazed the Arabs, and collected round me an immense crowd. We here discovered that our living amongst these people had not contributed much to our cleanliness, and that one of Pharaoh’s curses was but too evidently upon us.

Wednesday, 17th.—We removed from our stable to a building dignified by the name of a castle, in which the Kaid resides during his too frequent visits to these parts. We had a dozen negroes turned out to make way for us, the only good room being occupied by a Chowse, who in the Kaid’s name was collecting money. He was all day surrounded by poor wretches, entreating that his master would spare them, and that something might be left to assist in supporting their families. It was really melancholy to witness the misery which prevailed amongst them; for they were called upon to answer the exactions of three masters, none of whom would leave them even a sheep, if their extortions were not complied with. Thus it is: the Bashaw demands a certain sum of money, and sends a Kaid to collect it. This man doubles the requisition, in order to enrich himself; and it not unfrequently happens that he goes away, and leaves a Chowse to act for him, who in his turn drains them still more and more; and thus their victims are reduced to utter ruin. There were in the castle slaves, camels, sheep, goats, and grain in quantities, which had all been lately extorted from these unhappy people. Eight poor prisoners were confined under-ground, and had not been fed during the time we were there; and finally, the Chowse had an order to cut their throats, which we understood was executed the day after we left the castle. A market is held here weekly, to which the necessaries of life are brought with fear and trembling, lest any one should appear too rich.

Thursday, 18th February.—This being market day, a few sheep and goats were brought on the plain before the gate. There were also dates, corn, and gunpowder, but in small quantities. We bought a sheep and some dates. It rained the whole of this day; but at night it cleared up. The Sheikh came to see us, and brought us a bowl of Bazeen, in return for which we gave him some powder. The Population amounts to about 2000, as near as I could judge; but the habitations are so scattered along the sides of the Wadey, that no very just estimate can be given.

Mr. Ritchie was requested to obtain the pardon of the prisoners in the castle, who had been guilty of resisting an attempt to drive off their flocks for the service of the Bashaw, and he promised to intercede for them; but we were overtaken, when on our return to Tripoli, by a man, who informed us that they had all been killed.

Mr. Ritchie, by two observations, made the latitude of Benioleed, 31°. 45′ north.

Friday, 19th February.—Having somewhat refreshed ourselves and cattle, we left this place at eight A.M.; and, ascending the side of the Wadey, proceeded during the whole day over a rocky flat, perfectly barren, until six P.M., when we stopped, having made, north 20° west, thirty miles. We saw this day two large vultures, but scarcely within shot of us.

Saturday, 20th February.—Our road this day improved, and we went through several fertile Wadeys, and over plains of fine grass. We passed also several herds of female camels, with their young, and many flocks of sheep. At three, our road began to rise, and we saw many tents of the Arabs of Terhoona ترحونه, who were attending their flocks: some of them were changing their quarters, and we were much amused by different parties, who were travelling on the same road as ourselves. Women and children were riding the camels, which were also laden with their tents and furniture. At seven, we came amongst the mountains, and arrived at the wells of Melghrā ملغرا, which have excellent water. There are several little streams from the sides of the hills, which run through the valley; and there is much game here, principally partridges and snipes.

Sunday, 21st February.—At eight A.M., we left the wells, and passed through winding defiles at the foot of the mountains until noon, when we cleared them, and opened on a sandy plain, covered in some places with verdure, and having great quantities of the Khandal حندل or Colycynth. On passing some Arab tents, the children brought us small roots, of the shape of young potatoes; but resembling mushrooms in taste, smell, and tenderness. They grow in the sand, and the Arabs call them Terfaas ترفاس. We here drank some camel’s milk for the first time. It is much less rich than that of a cow, and saltish to the taste. We also procured a skin full of sour butter-milk, which is much esteemed by the Arabs, who call it Libban لبّان. It is never drank in a sweet state; but is allowed, after the butter is made, to stand until it tastes and smells very sour.

In the afternoon, the country over which we passed had many bushes; and at five, we came to a well, near a Marāboot’s tomb, having made, north 43° west, twenty-four miles. The well, near which we were, was 288 feet in depth, and the water brackish. In the evening a man came to request Mr. Ritchie to take an Arab under his protection to Tripoli, and endeavour to procure for him the Bashaw’s pardon, he being the only one remaining of a rebel tribe, which had been destroyed. The offender was in the Marāboots’ tombs, which was considered a sanctuary; but, on our mounting our horses in the morning, he was to follow us at full speed, and claim the protection of the British flag.

Monday, 22d.—We waited some time for this man, and at last were obliged to proceed to Tripoli without him. Our road was over very steep and irregular sand hills. At three P.M. we arrived, having made, north-west, twenty miles. As I now had many opportunities of seeing the Arabs amongst their own tribes, and had greatly familiarised myself with them, I obtained some knowledge of their manners and customs, which I will endeavour to describe in giving an account of this extraordinary race of people.

OF THE ARABS.

The Arabs are, generally speaking, tall, straight, and well formed, and inclined, from their manner of living, to be thin and muscular. Their countenances are expressive and handsome, their form of face oval, and their noses aquiline. Although naturally white, their complexion becomes dark from continual exposure to the sun, and from not being very particular in their ablutions. They are active; capable of undergoing great fatigue and abstinence from food; lively in their manners; daring, and possessed of much cunning: though generous, they are great beggars; revengeful and unforgiving. The general costume of the men is a large loose shirt and trowsers of cotton, sandals, or tight half boots of red leather, which lace in front, fit close round the ankle, and rise as high as the calf of the leg. On their heads they wear a red cap, which is long enough to hang a little down on one side; from the top of it falls a tassel of blue silk. A wrapper of woollen (from about twenty to twenty-five feet in length, and five or six in breadth), woven rather more compactly than flannel, is thrown round the body in folds, part being placed over the head in the manner of a hood, while the end is thrown over the left shoulder, and hangs down behind the back. This article of dress has several names, according to its texture. The most coarse and heavy is called Aba. That between this and the finest (called Jereed) is named Kholi; but in Tripoli, all three are known under the appellation of Barracan. A large cloak, having a hood, and no sleeves, and composed of closely and well-woven wool without a seam, is used in rainy or cold weather over the Barracan, and is called Bornouse. The dress of the females differs but little from that of the men in materials, but they put it on in a different manner. The poorest class wear only the Barracan, which is passed over the head and fastened at the waist; others have a shirt in addition to this. Young women wear their hair in tresses, to which they attach beads, pieces of coral, silver, or any other gaudy thing which they can procure; and they have one or two large silver ornaments in the form of crescents, fastened on the right side of the head, on which they also frequently wear a large woollen turban of blue, wrapped carelessly round. From their ears are suspended a multitude of silver rings, and round their necks they hang rows of beads of various colours. The old women frizzle their hair over the forehead, so as to make it project to some distance; and they dye it of a dull red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna, which gives it the appearance of red wool. All the females have a practice of tattooing their chins, the tips of their noses, and between the eyebrows. Their necks and arms are also frequently marked. The favourite figure is that of a hand, which is intended to avert the “Evil Eye.” They wear red lacing boots, in the same manner as the men. When young (that is to say, fifteen or sixteen), they have fine figures, and are exceedingly handsome; but they soon lose their good looks and pleasing form, and become as ugly as they were before beautiful. Their eyes are black and large; their noses straight and well proportioned; they have small lips, and their teeth are exquisitely white. Nothing, in fact, can exceed in prettiness an Arab girl; but the old women are, without exception, the most disgusting and hideous creatures I ever beheld. Both sexes blacken their eyelids with Kohol, or lead ore powdered, which adds much to the brilliancy of the eye, and makes it appear larger than it really is. They all wear an immense quantity of Agebs عجب, or Charms, against disorders and misfortunes.

The arms of the Arabs are the same as those of the natives of Tripoli, viz. guns, pistols, swords, and daggers. They are good shots, when able to rest their guns; but otherwise cannot easily manage them. The gun is slung over the shoulders, and the pistols are worn in a belt, which is hung round the body, and which contains the ammunition. They are constantly armed with both these weapons; but the sword is seldom carried, unless when they ride on horseback; it is then suspended by the side of the saddle, in such a way as to remain under the left leg, with the hilt near the pommel. They generally procure their powder and lead from Tripoli, though some possess the art of making a kind of inferior powder amongst themselves.

In the Tripoline dominions, and in Fezzan also, there are two kinds of Arabs, one wanderers, the other fixed residents in towns; those in towns (as Benioleed for example) travel much about the country, but always return to what they consider as their home. The wanderers have no permanent place of abode, but remove their tents as pasturage or circumstances require. These tents are made of woollen, coarsely woven in long pieces and sewn together. They spread to a great breadth, but are not high; the entrance being about six feet, and the top sloping gradually down till it is fastened to the ground. They are so divided by means of mats or carpets, that the women have a separate place from the men, and can be hidden from the gaze of strangers: they, however, so manage it, as to see without being themselves observed. These dwellings of the Arabs are called by their inhabitants, Beit el Shar, بيت الشار, or “hair houses,” and Nejja also. By means of bushes, almost every tent has an inclosure adjoining it, for securing sheep or goats at night; and stakes are driven in the ground, to which the horses are fastened, though sometimes these animals are allowed a portion of the tents of their masters. The Arabs are generous to their own kinsmen; and should a stranger come amongst them, they never deny him the rights of hospitality, provided they are themselves eating; but should that not be the case, they make no attempt to prepare food expressly for him: an acquaintance, however, is always sure of a good reception.

The Bedouins of Barbary are not to be compared with those of Egypt, either for enterprise, ingenuity, or good qualities; since whatever they may have been, they are now, by the tyranny of their masters, fallen from their once high character, and are not in any respect better than slaves. One or two tribes are yet independent, but are likely soon to fall. Each tribe, or even set of tents, is governed by a Sheikh, who, being an old man, or one appointed by the Bashaw, is looked up to as a superior; though his business is chiefly to collect the requisite sums of money from his people. Some years back, these Sheikhs commanded their tribes in the wars of plunder, or in defence of their liberties, and were then chosen by the voice of the people, for their courage and military skill; but all offensive or defensive wars being now at an end, in consequence of their repeated and bloody overthrows by the Bashaw, the name of Sheikh has no honour attached to it. In some cases, indeed, individuals refuse to undertake the office, lest the Bashaw should make them responsible for any faults committed by their followers.

In their Religion, the Arabs are great bigots, very superstitious, and easily alarmed about the enchantments and wiles of Iblis (or the devil), to whom they attribute many of their misfortunes and illnesses. To the prayers enjoined by the Koran they are very attentive, and, unless in travelling, never omit repeating them at the appointed periods. Of the name and attributes of God they never speak without reverence; and they have a profound respect for Idiots, whom they consider as people beloved of Heaven, and totally unable to think of the things of this world.

Marriages are contracted in most instances without either party having seen the other, the agreement being entirely on the part of the parents of the bride, and the bridegroom, the consent of the females never being asked. There are certain marriage presents which are always given by the husband to the relations of his wife, so that he may be said to purchase her of them. Though four wives are allowed to all Mohammedans, the Arabs very rarely possess so many, few having more than two, and some only one. It is not their custom to have Negresses living with them, which may be accounted for by their dislike to being considered as the fathers of children of colour. The settled Arabs are not so scrupulous; but are, notwithstanding, more so than the Moors. The ceremony observed in conducting a bride to her husband is very singular; and having myself been an eye-witness of it, I made a drawing representing the camel used on such occasions, with its gay trappings.

A frame being fixed on the back of the animal, the bride is placed in it, and, while thus sitting, is housed over with carpets, shawls, and ostrich feathers. In travelling from place to place, or in searching for pasture ground, the people make use of these frames; but they are in such cases generally uncovered, and have baskets, or other frame-work, attached to their sides, in which the young children are placed. An Arab family on its march presents a very extraordinary appearance, the camels being laden with tents, cooking utensils, women, and children. The men walk, driving their flocks before them, or ride their horses, frequently without bridle or saddle. Should the journey exceed one day, a temporary tent is erected at night; and at the dawn of morning, all is again placed on the camels. The operation of erecting or taking down one of their hair houses does not occupy much time, as the women always assist the men on these occasions. The dogs guard the flocks during the night, and are very fierce. In colour they are white, resembling wolves in form, and having long bushy tails. They howl rather than bark, and with great apparent courage attack every stranger who approaches them, though when threatened with a stick or stone, they run yelping away. It frequently happens, that the spot fixed on as a temporary residence is far distant from any well, sometimes even three days of the ordinary march of flocks; yet this does not dishearten the persevering Arab, who, notwithstanding, drives his sheep once a week to drink. They feed as they go and come, and therefore do not suffer much on their long journey. The wants of the people are easily supplied; a few skins of water being brought at stated times by a camel, and economised with great care. I have remarked, that not only the Arabs and their camels, but all animals in this country have the power of remaining a great length of time without water. Sheep, (provided they have tolerable herbage), will pass even a month without drinking. Antelopes and buffaloes, I should conceive, in some cases never taste water, none being found on the surface of the desert, and they are unable to obtain that which is in the wells. On the other hand, wolves, hyænas, foxes, and jackals, are less capable of enduring thirst. They descend such wells (or more properly pits) as are not deep; and the vicinity of one of these places is frequently ascertained from observing the tracks of animals, which, during the night, go there to drink.

The Bedouins sow their scanty stock of corn, after turning up the earth with a rude plough, or more generally with a hoe. These cultivated spots are respected by other wanderers, and the corn is rarely stolen; should the Bashaw, indeed, be at war with the Arabs, he never fails to destroy their crops. When a sufficient time has elapsed to allow of the grain being in a state of maturity, those to whom it belongs come and gather in their harvest (sometimes before it is perfectly ripe), lest the Bashaw should be informed of the circumstance, and deprive them of a larger portion than they can afford; emissaries, indeed, are never wanting, who make it their business to ascertain the exact time when the corn is to be cut, and then pounce on the poor Arabs for the Bashaw’s share of it. To avoid such taxes, therefore, they sometimes gather it so prematurely, that it will not serve as seed for the ensuing year. When the date season commences, many families come and pitch their tents in the Meshea of Tripoli, in order to purchase dates for their future subsistence; these they deprive of the stones, and when kneaded together, keep them in skins, so as to preserve them from insects or wet: these form their chief support, assisted by the milk of their sheep and camels. That of the camel, as I have before noticed, is thin, of a bluish colour (resembling cow’s milk mixed with water), and rather salt to the taste; it throws up no cream, but soon coagulates like new curds. The ewe milk is excellent, but is never drank fresh, the Arabs preferring it sour, or, more properly, as butter-milk. The flocks are milked morning and night into large bowls, and when a sufficient quantity is thus collected, it is poured into skins, without much attention being paid to its cleanliness, when by shaking and rolling it about, butter is procured, and generally attaches itself to the side of the skin; the milk being then strained from it into other vessels, is allowed to grow sour, and a quantity of butter being produced, it is boiled with a little salt until it becomes like oil, and is then poured into goat-skins, and is fit for use or market.

Cheese is procured by turning the milk with a certain herb (the name of which I have forgotten), and the curds, being salted, are spread out to dry in the sun, when they resemble little crums, and are very pleasant to the taste. I did not see any other kind of cheese than the one I have mentioned, and this is rather scarce, and used as a luxury in many of their little messes. Sometimes it is toasted, and has a very agreeable flavour. It is called Jibn, جبن.

A great article of commerce is the fat which the shepherds procure from the sheep they kill. They cut it from every part of the body, salt it, and lay it by until a large quantity is collected, when, whether putrid or not, they boil it, until it bear some resemblance to the grease used by tallow-chandlers; it is then poured into skins, and is fit for use. In the interior it sells at about a shilling a pound; but at Tripoli it is much cheaper. It is put into almost every article of food by the Arabs, and though not very savoury, we soon became accustomed to its taste. It is called Shahm شحامر.

From the wool of their sheep, the women make strong barracans, carpets, shirts, turbans, and many ornaments. Their tents too are made of wool and goats’ hair, as are also sacks, which are used to carry corn and merchandize on the camels. Mats and ornaments of palm leaves or grass are neatly made. Their dyes are generally brilliant; black, blue, red, and orange; in fact, every colour excepting green, which they find much difficulty in producing; though at Tripoli the dyers succeed very well in it. The looms of the Arab women are on the ground; they have no shuttles, but with much trouble pass the threads through with their fingers, generally lightening their labour with songs. The men seldom work while in their tents, and their time seems to hang much heavier on their hands than that of the women, who with cooking and other domestic employments are generally pretty well occupied. No woman eats in the presence of a man, and wives always wait on their husbands.

The domestic animals consist of poultry, sheep, goats, camels, horses, and dogs: they all live under the same canopy as their masters, and are on good terms amongst themselves. The horses are perfectly quiet, being brought up with the children of the family. They would be a fine race, but that the want of good food prevents their acquiring a handsome appearance; add to which, the ambition of possessing well fed and comely animals does not now exist; for should any of the Bashaw’s people wish to appropriate a fine horse, the owner dares not refuse to sell him, at whatever low price may be offered. Still, however, many of the Arabs breed them expressly for the market, bringing them while foals for sale. I have seen some of them brought in this way, which, when taken care of, became remarkably handsome, and unlike the generality belonging to the Bedouins. In the bazaars at Tripoli I have sometimes observed very fine ones, which were brought from the Desert, and sold for forty or fifty dollars (about eleven or twelve pounds sterling) a piece. All have long tails, and are entire; a great defect is, however, almost general amongst them, in consequence of their being mounted when too young; which is, that their backs are very hollow, and their hind quarters appear higher than their fore. Colts of twelve months are frequently seen, staggering beneath the weight of a heavy man, his arms, water skin, and food. The Arabs consider a large belly as very handsome; and some horses, from the nature of their food, acquire such rotundity in this respect, that they appear like mares in foal.

Arabs exercising.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. 1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

A light mane and tail on a chesnut horse is considered unlucky; the colour, though common, is not much admired, and the feet of such animals are accounted soft and tender. Bay is the favourite colour next to light grey, which is much in request, the Bashaw generally riding horses of this description.

Much importance is attached to the manner in which the legs are coloured, stockinged horses being in the extremes of good or bad luck, according to the disposition of the white. If both forelegs are marked, it is good; if one hind and one fore leg are marked on the same side, it is very unlucky; or if one alone is white, it is equally unfortunate; but if opposite legs (off fore and near hind) are light, nothing can be more admired. Ridiculous as these fancies may appear, they nevertheless influence the price of horses, sometimes to even a sixth of their value.

In sandy parts of the desert shoeing is never used; but where the animals are to pass over mountains, it is absolutely necessary. The Arab shoes are thus formed,

turning up behind; and are, in general, so badly put on, that there are few horses to be found which have not been injured in their feet. The Arab’s forge is simple, and almost every man is his own blacksmith. A small mud or clay wall is built to the height of a foot or eighteen inches; a hole is then made even with the ground, and an iron pipe introduced. To this are attached two skins, which open at the upper end by means of two sticks, having a small leather handle on each: the thumb is passed through one of these, and the fingers through the other; so that the hand easily opens and shuts the skin. The mouth being closed, the skin is pressed down, and throws a strong blast through the pipe. It is again opened and lifted up, when it is once more ready. Thus, alternately with each hand, the current of air is kept up to the fire which lies over the pipe. Camel’s dung is used when charcoal cannot be procured, and gives a very strong heat. The anvil is a small square-ended piece of iron, which is sunk in a log of wood, and partly buried in the sand. An ordinary hammer, and a pair or two of pincers, complete the apparatus.

The mill is equally simple, being composed of two circular stones, one of which lies flat on the other, and is turned by a small handle placed on it; this is fixed by a pivot from the lower one, and has a hole in the centre, through which it is supplied with grain.

The messes made with flour are few, and may be thus enumerated: Cusscussou, Bazeen, Dweeda, Atila, Mogatta, Zūmeita, Bread, Fetaat. Cusscussou being a dish very generally mentioned in all books of travels, I shall attempt to describe the manner in which it is made; and I trust I may be allowed, however trifling the subject, to mention in the same manner the other articles of food, as I believe they are at present only known by name.

The corn for Cusscussou is ground expressly to the state which is called Semolina in Italy, and used also under that name in England. The hand being clean washed, and a large wooden bowl prepared, a portion of semolina is thrown into it with the right hand; it is turned quickly round under the palm, while from the left, water is occasionally sprinkled upon the mass, together with dry semolina. In a short time, by turning it constantly the same way, the flour adheres in little granules, like bread crums; and by a dexterous motion of the hand, is prevented from forming into large lumps. When finished, the grains resemble small shot in size, and stick closely together, without danger of again falling into flour on being dried. They will keep good in this state nearly as long as corn. When Cusscussou is to be prepared for eating, it is put in a basket, or tin vessel having holes in the bottom, and steamed over meat, or boiling water, care being taken to stir it occasionally, so as to prevent its caking. When sufficiently done, meat is poured on with its gravy, or a little butter or grease mixed with it; should meat be wanting, a good quantity of red pepper and salt are frequently all its auxiliaries.

Bazeen (which in Fezzan is called Aseēda) is the most common food, as being the easiest prepared. It is made of the flour of any grain (Bishna and Barley are mostly used near Tripoli) in the following manner. A large pot, of copper or iron, is placed on the fire, with a little water in it, which is suffered to boil. Flour is then thrown in, until it acquires the consistency of dough, when it is stirred well about with a large stick (water being occasionally added, if necessary,) until it is quite thick, and begins to assume the appearance of a pudding, when it is taken out, and placed in a bowl. After being beat into a circular shape, and having a hole made in the centre, gravy, oil, butter, or grease, is poured on it, and it is then ready for eating, which is done by pinching pieces out with the right hand, and kneading them with the grease until they assume the appearance of thick paste. Should there be no gravy or grease to be procured, a little flour mixed with hot water is used instead of it. It requires much strength of arm to make bazeen properly, as the stick is wielded by both hands, and the pot is confined on the fire by having a forked piece of wood placed against it, on which the woman kneels while preparing the mess.

Dweeda is moulded in the shape of little seeds, not quite so large as the grains of rice; but oblong, and much resembling them. A stiff dough being prepared, the women very expeditiously pinch it out between their fingers and thumbs into this form. It is then allowed to dry; and is considered a great dainty when boiled, and a little butter poured over it.

Atila is composed much in the same way; but is longer, and much resembles small macaroni broken in pieces. It is also boiled in the same manner as Dweeda.

Mogatta is made of paste, by being beaten and turned between the hands, until it is as thin as a pancake; it is then laid in the sun to harden a little. When it becomes sufficiently crisp to break, it is crumbled in pieces, and boiled until it resembles thick porridge, the larger pieces always remaining entire. A sufficient quantity of fat and pepper completes it.

Zumeeta is made of barley, which has been a little malted; it is then ground into flour, and sometimes dates are pounded with it. In this state it remains until it is to be used; when a little cold water being mixed with it until it becomes like dough, it is fit for eating. Oil is much used with it, by dipping the Zumeeta in it when formed into mouthfuls for eating. This is almost the only stock which Arabs provide on going a journey, as it is easily prepared, and very nourishing.

Bread is made as in Europe. It is leavened with flour, or a preparation of dates, moulded into little cakes shaped like buns. The ovens are generally formed in the ground: a hole is made about two feet in depth, and in the shape of a large jar, contracted at the mouth; it is then encrusted inside with clay. Wood is thrown in and burnt, until a thick layer of glowing ashes is collected at the bottom, and the oven is thoroughly heated; the loaves are then put in by a woman, who bares and wets her arm, and sticks them against the side with great dexterity: when done enough, if not speedily taken off, they fall into the embers. Sometimes meat is dressed in these ovens; a kind of crumpet, also, called Fetaat, made in the same way as Mogatta, but without leaven, is slightly baked in them; one of these crumpets is then placed in a bowl, and soup and vegetables are poured over it; another is then put in, and soup added as before, and so on in successive layers, until the bowl is full. All these messes are eaten with the fingers.

There is great variety in the manner of dressing meat, which is stewed, boiled, or baked; but for journeys the Arabs have a very good way of preserving it, by cutting it into thin slices, drying it in the sun, and afterwards stewing it in fat. I have often observed them eating small grasses, which they found as they pursued their journey; and to my inquiries how they knew them to be innoxious, the general reply was, that whatever an animal which chewed its cud could eat with safety, must be food for man. There is a species of dandelion, very bitter, and exuding a white juice, which is much liked by the sheep as well as their masters. The taste at first is very unpleasant; but I soon became accustomed to it. The Colocynth apple grows in great quantities in some parts of the Desert, and is almost the only medicine used by the Arabs. Burning is always had recourse to, and many of them are in consequence covered with scars; it is also occasionally used to show the force of love; and both sexes practise it when they wish to give proof of very strong affection.

Wolves, young dogs, cats, and hedgehogs, though forbidden animals, are not unfrequently eaten by sick persons, from a belief that their flesh is medicinal, or, as they express it, “Doua.” Charms are much worn, and are procured from such as are considered Marāboots amongst themselves, or from the Scribes of Tripoli. It is not enough that the man should be defended by these little prayers sewed up in leather, and attached to his arms or body; but his horse, gun, sword, and red cap must be equally protected with himself. The “Evil Eye” is of all other mischiefs most dreaded, and for a stranger to express particular admiration of a child, a horse, or any other valuable, is to bring on it or its possessor certain misfortune; this may, however, be averted by passing over the object a finger wetted with saliva, or by the equally efficacious charm of an open hand, either attached to the clothes as an ornament, or tattooed on the skin. It is remarkable that no Arab will take a knife or scissars from the hands of any one, as (from some superstitious prejudice) such an action is considered highly unfortunate; but they require that the instrument should be first laid on the ground, whence they readily take it up without fear.

The Arabs have but few amusements beyond Dancing and a Game called Helga, which resembles draughts, and is played with camels’ dung or date stones, in holes made in the sand. The noise uttered by these people at their festivals, or on any joyful occasion, is most extraordinary; and being very shrill, it may be heard at a great distance, particularly if several persons join in chorus: it is a piercing cry from the throat (the mouth being quite open), to which a tremulous sound is given by a rapid motion of the tongue from side to side; it is very enlivening, and when it becomes familiar to the ear, far from disagreeable.

The manner of salutation used amongst the Arabs is particularly striking, and certainly not ungraceful. Friends on meeting, seize each the right hand of the other, then loosen and apply the tips of their fingers to their mouths, afterwards laying the open hand on the heart, they press it and gently incline the head at the same time. Very intimate acquaintances mutually lift their joined right hands in such a manner that each kisses the back of the other’s hand, repeating with the greatest rapidity, “How are you? well, how are you? Thank God, how are you? God bless you, how are you?” which compliments in a well bred man never last less than ten minutes; and whatever may be the conversation afterwards, it is a mark of great good breeding occasionally to interrupt it, bowing solemnly and asking, “How are you?” though an answer to the question is by no means considered necessary, as he who asks it is perhaps looking another way, and thinking of something else. I must not omit to mention a particular instance of good breeding which I met with amongst these people: a man begged me one day to reach him a piece of straw which lay near me, that he might take out of a cup of water a bird which had fallen into it. I perceived, however, that it was only a Fly; and was afterwards informed that they consider it disrespectful to make use of the word Fly in presence of a superior.

The questions asked and observations made by some of the inland Arabs respecting our country were very curious; amongst other extraordinary fancies, they have an idea, originating in the name given to the Atlantic, Bahr el blem, باحرالظلا, sea of darkness, that we have no Sun or Moon in the countries which are in the sea, and in consequence, they imagine that our ships sail about with great lanterns attached to them. They also believe that Christians use the milk of pigs as a beverage, and in fact, that it forms their chief subsistence. That we have horses, cows, and sheep, is not at all credited by them; and that our country should be destitute of dates excites their greatest commiseration. They cannot at all conceive how we avoid falling off our islands and rolling into the sea, or how, being surrounded by water, we have sufficient room for animals to graze. There are some on the other hand who think highly of our wealth and dignity, until they are told that our country is an Island, when their admiration decreases considerably. Buonaparte, or as the Arabs call him, Bono barto, is in great estimation amongst them, not on account of his military achievements; but because they have heard that he has 200,000 dollars an hour, and that he sits on a golden throne.

The Arabs are good and bold horsemen, and though in general but poorly provided with food for their horses, they make them perform very long journeys. The inducement to all exertion, however, is now nearly at an end, their wars having ceased; but in the time of the Waled Suliman, اولاد سوليمان who infested the road from Tripoli to Fezzan, and committed every excess, journeys were made and difficulties overcome which equalled any of the stories of the Arabs of old. This once powerful tribe had formerly possession of every pass from Tripoli to the interior, and were so much dreaded, that few traders would venture amongst them, even when they were at peace with the Bashaw. These are the people whom Lucas mentions as having declared war against Tripoli, and prevented the Kafflé, to which he was attached, from proceeding from Mesurāta to Fezzan; but they are now completely destroyed. About eight years since the Bashaw in the regency of Tripoli, and Mukni, in the kingdom of Fezzan, commenced so hot an attack upon them that they were scattered, and being in small parties, easily fell a prey to the troops employed against them. It was the custom during this war (as in all previous wars) to give no quarter; all prisoners therefore had their throats cut on being taken, and every species of cruelty was practised on them. Two hundred and fifty, who were seized in a town in the Wadey Shiati of Fezzan, were butchered in cold blood, even though they had surrendered on condition of having their lives spared. This tribe perhaps would still have flourished in Fezzan, but that not expecting any attack from Mukni, they quitted for a time their own territory and proceeded to Egypt, in order to wage war on some other tribes who had offended them: this circumstance was taken immediate advantage of by Mukni, who contrived before their return to gain possession of Morzouk, which he could not otherwise have done. They, however, besieged him there with great activity; but leaving in the meantime their frontiers undefended, the Bashaw poured his army into the country, and thus completely effected their destruction as a tribe. The small number who escaped became wanderers for a time, and were occasionally met with and killed, until at last the remaining few incorporated themselves with other tribes. That of the Waled Suliman, which does not now exist, is celebrated in all the Arab stories; and there are few places in this part of Africa which have not had ample occasion to remember them.

Wherever they removed, their families and immense flocks accompanied them; and they were commanded by one or two Sheikhs of known courage and experience. A friend of ours, who in the first wars had spared the life of one of their chiefs, was, a few months after, coming from Fezzan, in company with a large kafflé of merchants, bringing slaves, when, in a part of the mountains, in which they conceived there was no chance of encountering these people, they, to their great dismay, were seized and conducted to the chief, in full conviction that they should be murdered, and their slaves and goods distributed amongst the captors; when, fortunately, one of the party stepped forward, and suddenly recognised his deliverer. The scene was immediately changed: eighteen sheep, as many goats, and some cows were killed, and the whole kafflé feasted for three days; their goods and their slaves were returned to them, and they were suffered to depart.

On our return to Tripoli, we understood that it was not the intention of the Bashaw to send, as he at first had given out, a force with Mukni, into the interior. The latter was to be attended only by his own followers; and we were desired to hold ourselves in readiness to accompany him in a few days. In consequence of this, Mr. Ritchie caused a variety of food, appropriate for a journey on the Desert, to be provided. He bought Gerbas, or water skins; and in fact, made every necessary preparation. Owing to the lowness of his funds, he wrote to Lord Bathurst, soliciting a further supply; and I drew money, on my own account, which I gave him for our general use. For some articles which Mr. Ritchie procured for Mukni, from Malta, he became our debtor to the amount of 300 dollars, which were to be paid us on his arrival in Fezzan. On this small sum, and not knowing when or how we were to procure more, was our journey to be undertaken. Our camels were paid for in advance; but other expenses, which were unavoidable, would, we had no doubt, extend far beyond our narrow limits.

The allowance of £2000, which was made to Mr. Ritchie, had already been expended, in buying Merchandize, Instruments, Arms, &c. and otherwise making provision for the welfare of the Mission; but the merchandize was selected in England, and unfortunately was such as could be of little utility in the interior, of which circumstance we were not aware until too late; for, with the exception of cutlery, we had, in fact, nothing which would sell. We had Beads and looking-glasses in abundance; but neither of these articles were of the kind most in request amongst the Negroes, who, we learnt, were as much wedded to fashion, as the inhabitants of more civilized countries. Such was the inauspicious state of our affairs, when we entered on our hazardous journey, determined at all events, that, however unpromising in its commencement, its failure should not be attributed to our want of zeal in the service we had undertaken.

On the 18th March, the Bashaw held a public audience; and Mukni, in presence of the British consul, as well as ourselves, pledged himself to assist us in all our difficulties.

CHAPTER II.
JOURNEY FROM TRIPOLI TO MORZOUK.

Preparations for their departure, in company with Mohammed el Mukni — Encampment in the Mountains of Terhoona, and at the Wells of Melghra — Arrival at Benioleed — Interview with the Wife of the Sheikh, of the Kafflé — Their Christian Friends return to Tripoli — Punishment of an Arab for Theft — Journey over the Desert — Remains of a Roman Castle — Continuation of the Journey, until their Arrival at Sockna — Entry into that City — Description of it — Manner of raising the Tribute Money — Accompany the Sultan’s Son to Hoon and Wadan, to receive the Taxes — Account of those Places — Return to Sockna — Leave Sockna — Singular Custom imposed on Travellers in passing the Soudah Mountains — Arrival at Nufdai — Clear the Soudah Mountains — And travel over the gravelly Plain, through the Pass of Kenair, to the Well of Om el Abeed — Visit the Towns of Zeighan and Samnoo, famed for their Marāboots — Encamp at Temenhint — Arrival at Sebha, where the Black Population commences — Pass on to Ghroodwa — Entry to Morzouk, the Capital of Fezzan.

On the 22d March, 1819, after repeated delays, every thing being at length in readiness for our departure, the camels, twenty-two in number, arrived, and carried our goods to the Desert beyond the Meshea, where Mr. Ritchie preferring to remain in the town, Belford, and myself, pitched our tent, in order to keep watch over the goods. Our Kafflé increased much this day; many Negroes, who had obtained their freedom, and were returning to their native countries, fixed their little triangles of sticks, and a mat or carpet, close to us, whilst I amused myself in marking our goods, so that each camel-man might be enabled to know his own charge, and thus avoid mistakes or confusion.

23d March.—I went back into the town, and found that Mukni was not to join us until the morrow; by which delay, we obtained time to furnish ourselves with many necessaries, which we had before forgotten to provide.

24th March.—Mukni did not arrive this day; but his two Negresses and household slaves came out and pitched their tents. These women were mounted on camels, in a kind of litter, called Shiblia شبليه which is a light frame of wood, covered with scarlet cloth, so arranged, as to prevent the person in the inside from being seen. One of them had been twice to the Niger with Mukni, and was named Zaitoon زيتون or olive tree; the other was the mother of his youngest child, and was called Zeman Donya, زمان دونيه time of the world. All was confusion this day; and the varied heaps of goods, camels, saddles, and animals, which were scattered about, presented a very lively scene. As I sat in our tent, writing a letter, some Arabs came in, and seemed to find much amusement in seeing me write from left to right; but, when I told them my letter was addressed to a Female, their astonishment knew no bounds; and they laughed heartily at the idea, that it was possible for a woman to be capable of reading. Colonel Warrington’s eldest son came to spend the evening with us.

March 25th.—I went into the town, and took leave of all my Christian friends. At eight A.M. the kafflé, consisting of about two hundred men, and the same number of camels, set off. We followed them, and pitched our tents, to rest for the night, on the desert, near a well and a few palm trees. After dark, Mr. Ritchie, accompanied by our friends, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen, arrived. We amused ourselves in visiting little parties of the liberated Blacks, who were all joyful at the idea of returning once more to their native land; though their means of support were very slender, and many of them, with their young children, had to walk a distance of above two thousand miles, before they could reach their own country.

March 26th.—At 8 A.M. we again moved on over a sandy, irregular desert, all in high spirits at having commenced our journey, after so many and apparently unnecessary delays. Having travelled south-east twelve miles, we encamped near a very deep well, which I have before mentioned, where we were to wait for Mukni. Our kind friend, Dr. Dickson, here left us, the Bashaw requiring his attendance at the Castle. After dark we observed several flashes of muskets, which were fired by Mukni’s attendants, in order to discover the position of the Kafflé; we fired others in return, and soon heard the shrill pipes of the musicians announcing his approach. A beautiful scene now presented itself when he entered the camp, attended by about fifty horsemen, dressed in their gayest apparel, preceded by wild music, and three stand of silk colours. As we had coffee prepared for ourselves, Mukni, who was very fond of it, visited us in our tent, and partook of it with his son Yussuf, a mulatto boy of about eight years of age. They were splendidly dressed, and had ridden from the town at full speed, the little boy being a most excellent horseman.

March 27th.—Early in the morning we went on, and discovered that in the night another Shiblia had joined us, containing a very fat and beautiful woman, the wife of Sheikh Barood, who was director of the Kafflé, and manager of Mukni’s affairs. Our road lay over a fine country, with corn, many flocks, and a few Arab tents scattered here and there. In the afternoon, having passed through several low hills, we arrived at some corn, and encamped near a well; the Sultan’s people turning their horses amongst the corn, without any pity or consideration for the poor wretches who owned it.

March 28th.—Entered the mountains of Terhoona, which we passed through on our return from Benioleed, and encamped, at four P.M. near the wells of Melghra.

March 29th.—We proceeded this day over a fine country, and through a Wadey, having wells in it, called Mader, مادر; we filled our gerbas, and then entered on a rough uncultivated plain, where the paths were very difficult for our camels.

March 30th.—Having travelled this day also over a stony desert, we arrived at Benioleed, from which place to Tripoli I have, in a former part of my journal, given the bearings. Mukni’s horsemen preceded him to the castle, firing and shouting, as the people of Tripoli do in honour of the Bashaw.

March 31st.—As this was market day, we remained here in order to refresh ourselves, pitching our tents very pleasantly and securely amongst some Olives in the Wadey. Mukni had warned us, on coming here, to avoid encamping on the low ground, as, during the rains, it frequently became entirely flooded, and was therefore very dangerous. He told us of the Wadey being sometimes so completely covered with water, as to hide the highest olive trees from the view; the depth must therefore have been at least thirty feet. Many natives confirmed this account, adding, that men and animals had often been drowned in the night, before they could have time to escape; the torrents from the hill sides which form the Wadey, rushing down with such impetuosity that an hour or two is sufficient to inundate the whole country. We bought a fine sheep in the market, and killed it to feast our guests.

A boy who accompanied us from Tripoli came to me, full of the praises of Lilla Fatma, the fat wife of Sheikh Barood, a white woman, who, he said, was the most beautiful creature he had ever seen, and so fat that she could scarcely walk: “her arm (t’barek Allah, تْبارك اله, God’s blessing on it!) is as big as my body,” continued he, “and she says she should like to see you and Sidi Yussuf.” Such a hint was not to be rejected, and I therefore immediately paid her a visit, the boy acting as my Interpreter. On my entrance she so veiled herself as to exhibit to advantage her arm, with all its gay ornaments; and on my requesting to be favoured with a view of her face, she, with very little reluctance, gratified me. Her chin, the tip of her nose, and the space between her eyebrows, were marked with black lines; she was much rouged; her neck, arms, and legs, were covered with tattooed flowers, open hands, circles, the names of God, and of her numerous male friends. She had a multitude of gold ear-rings and ornaments, set with very bad and counterfeit jewels, and weighing all together, I should think, two or three pounds. Her shirt was of striped silk; and she had a rich purple silk barracan, or mantle, gracefully thrown round her, and fastened at the breast by a gold pin, with ornaments of the same metal suspended from it: all the other articles of finery which she possessed were displayed round the tent, whilst a multitude of poor thin wretches, resembling witches, sat round her in astonishment, never having in their lives seen such a paragon of perfection. Like all other Arabs, they touched whatever pleased them most, one admiring this object, another something near it, so that our poor belle was sometimes poked by a dozen fingers at once; all, however, agreeing on one point, that she was beautifully and excessively fat, and I must say I never before beheld such a monstrous mass of human flesh. One of her legs, of enormous size, was uncovered as high as the calf, and every one pressed it, admiring its solidity, and praising God for blessing them with such a sight. I was received most graciously, and invited to sit close to her, when one of the first questions she asked me was, if in my country the ladies were as fat and handsome as herself? For the plumpness of my countrywomen, I owned, with shame, that I never had seen one possessed of half such an admirable rotundity, which she took as a great compliment; but I did not attempt to carry the comparison farther, though she was really very handsome in face and features. She amused herself while speaking with playing on a kind of drum, made of clay, called Derbooka, دربوكه, by beating with one hand, and playing with the fingers of the other; and perceiving that I was amused by it, she ordered an old man to get up and dance. The females sang and clapped their hands in good time, and the dancer went through a variety of figures, all equally indelicate. A woman then succeeded him, and in this respect quite threw him in the shade; but as I knew it to be the general mode of dancing in this part of Barbary, I of course applauded it. Lilla Fatma herself then thought proper to honour us with a few graceful attitudes in the same style; but Mr. Ritchie’s entrance into the tent soon put a stop to the exhibition, and the ceremony of veiling took place in the same manner as before. Fatma soon discovered a likeness between her late husband and Mr. Ritchie, from their being both very slender; but unfortunately the resemblance failed in all other points, her former spouse being, at the time she was obliged to leave him by an order of the Bashaw, fifty years old, with a grey beard; while, on the other hand, Mr. Ritchie was but twenty-seven, and of a very fair complexion. She was at all events determined to be pleased with us; and having sprinkled us with rose-water, allowed us to take our leave. On returning to our tent, we sent her some coffee, and a few lumps of sugar.

We found here much difficulty in obtaining water for our horses, owing to the great depth of the wells, and the people being employed in filling the skins for the morrow. In the evening, we visited Mukni, at the castle; and finding him surrounded by eatables, were invited to partake of them: but we discovered, that all his people, whilst it was his pleasure to remain, were fed by the natives, cost free. We laid in a sufficient stock of barley to supply our four horses, until we should arrive at Morzouk.

April 2nd.—We took water for three days, on the camels, and passed along the Wadey, at 7,15, A.M. Our friends here quitted us, in order to return to Tripoli, and we were now left to ourselves, amongst a strange people; our hearts were heavy, and we conversed but little during the remainder of the day. The country, on rising from the Wadey, was a stony desert until noon, when we passed over plains capable of cultivation, but having no water.

At 4,50, entered another Wadey, in which we saw a large herd of Gazelles; and, passing through it until 5,20, we encamped. Made S.E. by S. thirty miles. The horses were turned out to graze on a large field of barley, belonging to the Orfilly. This place was called Gairi, قيري or Sofagie. A mountain, south three miles, named Glla قله, and a distant range in the same direction, called Souarit سواريت. Much good herbage. On the camels being unloaded, we found that an old Bornou black had died on the one which he rode. A melancholy howling was set up by the women, and the corpse was carried to a distance, and immediately buried. An Arab, who was prowling about this evening, stole a gun belonging to one of the Sultan’s followers; but was detected, and bastinadoed in a most barbarous manner, by two men on each side, with green date sticks. After this part of his punishment was ended, a man mounted a horse, and started at full gallop, leading, or rather dragging this poor wretch after him. His wrists were tied together behind him, and the end of the cord which secured them was attached to the horse’s saddle. Had he fallen when thus dragged along, his shoulders must inevitably have been dislocated.

April 3rd.—We journeyed all this day over a stony plain, without the least sign of vegetation, and covered with small stones, of about the size and form of lumps of sugar; their surfaces appeared vitrified, and shone very much. In the evening, we got into a wadey where we found a well, and several talhh trees, so that we had abundance of fuel. We heard, during the night, repeated cries of jackals and hyænas. Made this day, S.E. twenty-eight miles.

April 4th.—At seven A.M. went on over a barren plain, having no water; but were enabled to collect a few bushes for our night’s cooking. At sunset secured our baggage, and lay in a gravelly flat. Jackals very noisy. Proceeded S.E. twenty-eight miles.

April 5th.—Barren plain as before. At two P.M. ascended a steep hill, from which, in every direction, the country appeared quite desolate;—found a few bushes on the top. On descending, at sunset, we pitched our tents, having travelled thirty-five miles, S.E.

April 6th.—At six A.M. we started, and passed over the wadeys Hait حيت, and Zemzem زمزم; each having a few prickly bushes, on which our camels fed. The latter is of great length, and runs to the sea, in the Gulf of Syrtis.

At 1,30, having passed a plain, where we found gypsum, and in some places, cockle-shells, we reached some sand hills to the well of Bonjem بنجم; the water of which resembles, both in taste and smell, bilge water from a ship. It lies in a stratum of black clay, about five feet below the sand. At the distance of half a mile from the well, is a Roman castle, situated amongst some high sand hills: it is of an oblong form, having in the centre of each of the walls, which are towards the cardinal points, a large arched gateway, between two strong towers. Each of the former, with its flanking towers, is in a different style of architecture: only one remains quite perfect; the others have fallen, or are partially buried in the sand. The stones of which these buildings are composed, are of the magnitude common to all Roman structures, and are of a kind of dark granite. In the enclosed space are several immense stones, standing upright, and so placed as to give the appearance of having once supported a large building: some are ten feet in height, independent of the part embedded in the sand. The mouth of a well is visible, still bearing the marks of the cords used in drawing the water; it is now entirely choked up with sand. The walls from east to west, are above two hundred paces in length; I should rather say, the tops of the walls, for in some places, they are buried in the sand; and from north to south, about one hundred and fifty. The Arabs, probably in the time of the Khalifs, appear to have used the northern towers; as remains of their rude masonry still surmount the original buildings. Over each gateway there had been an inscription, of which the northern one is most perfect. We found, by comparing them, that all were thus worded.

IMP . CAES . L . SEPTIMIO . SEVER^O.

PIO . PERTINACI . AVG . TRPOTV . IIII

IMP CSIIPPET IMP . CAES . M

AVRELIO . ANTONINO V RI

IIII . ET SEPTIMIO CAE

AVG . O . ANICIO . FAVSTO . LEG

AVGVSTORVM . CONSVLARI

IPO . III . AVG . PV

Under each had once been a large eagle, carved in basso relievo; but they are now so mutilated, as to bear very little resemblance to that bird.

This place is the northern boundary of Fezzan. All slaves of Mukni’s, going from Fezzan to Tripoli on account of the Bashaw, belong to the former until Bonjem is past; should any die afterwards, the Bashaw is the loser. The same risk attends the latter when he sends horses or goods to Mukni; all losses being made good by him north of the boundary, and by Mukni south of it. All camels found straying on the desert are appropriated to the respective kingdoms.

The Castle of Bonjem.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

Bonjem, according to Mr. Ritchie, is in latitude 30°. 35′. 32″. N. A few Arabs passed us with three camels and twelve female slaves, from Morzouk. We expected, on leaving Tripoli, to be much troubled about the established prayers, which should be repeated by the natives five times a day, though by travellers only thrice; but our present companions certainly were not very scrupulous in their religious duties; no one, or at most only two or three of them, ever praying at all; and, as for Mukni and his followers, they seemed to give themselves very little trouble about it. The only devout person amongst them, was one of our camel-men, who roared out all day, as loud as he was able, verses from the Koran, and charms against the devil; yet, in spite of all his sanctity, he was the greatest rascal in the kafflé. This fellow, in speaking of us, contemptuously called us Romees, or Christians; which coming to Mukni’s knowledge, he threatened him with a good thrashing, if he ever again called us any thing but Mamlukes, as the Sultan himself did.

The people of the kafflé having, by this time, become better acquainted with us, soon discovered Mr. Ritchie’s medical talents, and accordingly gave him no little trouble with their real and fancied complaints. They were all very anxious to be bled, and to take physic. One or two who were the most troublesome, and who had only imaginary ailments, were consigned to my management; for these I prepared, with an air of affected gravity, a mixture of coffee, salt, vinegar, and red pepper, giving to each a spoonful, with many serious instructions, how they were to eat, drink, and sleep; and I found, next morning, to my great satisfaction, that my patients had spread a report all over the kafflé, of the excellent effects of my wonderful medicine. During the night we heard a few jackals, whose tracks absolutely covered the sand hills round the castle.

April 7th.—The camels, which had been out on the plain to feed on the bushes, were brought in; and having waited till 1.30. P.M. to rest the people, we loaded, and went on our way. Abd Allah el Bendag, an old Arab, was despatched to Morzouk on a Maherry, to announce the approach of the Sultan. Our camels were loaded with four days’ water; a strong south wind covered us with sand, and the day was uncommonly sultry. Our road lay over a barren desert called Klïa, قليه. The surface, where clear of sand, was of gypsum. At 5 P.M. we passed a remarkable mound of limestone and sand; which, until a very near approach, resembled a white turret, and is called Bazeen, برزين. This name is also applied to the country immediately surrounding it. Our view was bounded on every side by distant yellow hills, appearing to be perfectly destitute of every kind of vegetation. At 11.40. P.M. rested for the night in a sandy wadey, called Boonaja, ابوناجه (or the ewe’s father), having made twenty-two miles south-south-east. This evening, as we rode along, the horsemen amused themselves in skirmishing before Mukni; and the Negroes danced and sang as well as their fatigue would allow them. The Sultan himself took my gun, and rode among his people at full speed, firing at their horses’ feet. All this parade was in consequence of our now being in the kingdom of Fezzan.

April 8th.—At 6 A.M. we left the wadey, and at 7 went through a pass, called Hormut Emhalla, خرموت المخالّه (or the pass of the army.) At 9.20. we passed a range of table mountains, running north-east and south-west, called Elood, الود. The desert here became stony and very uneven; a range of mountains to the southward, two or three miles, running east and west, and forming a crescent to the east of our path: they are called Guatela, قواتله. The westward was an uneven yellow range, distant five or six miles. At 10.5. A.M. we passed the west point of Guatela, our road lying close under the foot of the mountains. At 11 A.M. we turned to the southward and eastward. At 1.15. P.M. passed a conical hill standing apart from the neighbouring mountains, and resembling a tent, called El Khayma, الخيمه. At 5 P.M. entered a pass called Hormut Tuzzēt, حرموت طزّيت. At 6 cleared the pass, and opened on a plain; table mountains bearing south-east, called Matta Imhammed, مته امحمّد. At 6.30. encamped: one of our camels died this day, and three others were, from fatigue, unable to come up; indeed all the camels in the Kafflé were much distressed, not having for several days tasted any kind of food, and our marches were in general long.

April 9th.—At 6.15. A.M. started over a flat, which had no break to the view, except very distant mountains. Two hours and a half from the time of our setting off there is a solitary tree, which is considered as one day’s journey from water. Slaves, in coming from this water, are not allowed to drink until they reach the tree in question, which is one of the longest stages in the journey from Fezzan. The distant mountains had the appellation of Khod el Khādem, خدالخادم (or “take the negress.”) The plain was called El Grarat Arab Hoon, الغرارت عرب حون. At 7 P.M. we entered a pass called Hormut taad atar, خرموت طعداتر. And after passing through a winding wadey, closely hemmed in by the mountains, at 9 we stopped near a well of very brackish, stinking water, situated in a small plain, which here opens out in a circular form. Still no fodder for our camels. A man joined us with some stewed meat for the Sultan, and a load of water, from Sockna; and we procured a bowl of the latter, which afforded us no small treat. The well here, in hot seasons, is dry, and even at this period was very low. The horses, with great avidity, sucked up the mud which was thrown out of it. Strong sand wind from the southward.

April 10th.—At 6.10. A.M. set off. At 7 cleared the pass, and proceeded to a small wadey, where, in spite of a strong Siroc, we succeeded in pitching our tents. The sand, however, flew about in such quantities, that we were unable to prepare any food, and we could not even see thirty yards from us. Mukni took shelter with us, and advised that we should strip to our shirts, as the lightest way of withstanding the sand showers. Mr. Ritchie here presented him with one of our tents, it being much superior to his own. In the afternoon, the wind having a little subsided, we cleared away the heaps of sand which had collected round our goods, and allowed the camels to graze on the small bushes until 3 o’clock. We found, on examining some of our stores, that a large organ had been burst by the heat, and excessive dryness of the wind; a discovery by no means welcome to us. At 3.15. P.M. struck our tent, and again made our way over the plain until 7, when we stopped amongst some palms, which were thickly planted in a range of sand hills. There were two wells of tolerably fresh water at this place, which is called Hammam, حامام. From hence we could easily have made our way to Sockna; but as the Sultan preferred entering in the morning, we were content to stop, and get our heads shaved, as well as to enjoy a good washing, which was very requisite, as we were not over clean. The Sultan’s people were also employed in preparing themselves; and a large convoy of drummers, bag-pipers, and others, joined us in the night, mounted on asses, in order to precede his majesty to his city of Sockna.

April 11th.—At 7 A.M. proceeded with the Sultan and his escort, but found we were sadly in the back-ground with respect to outward appearance. Unfortunately we had not thought it necessary to put on any of our embroidered clothes, having no idea that so much finery was to be displayed; and whilst all the slaves of the Sultan sported their gayest apparel, we were simply habited as Arabs. Mukni was not well pleased at this omission on our part; for as we had the honour of riding on each side of him, and were considered as great men, he wished us to have been as fine and solemn as himself. On coming in sight of the town, the soldiers commenced firing and racing in front of the Sultan, and the musicians struck up such a noise as nearly stunned us. We were shortly joined by another party, who even outdid the first in sound. A number of dancing women then appeared, who, in most fantastic dresses, threw themselves into extraordinary attitudes, crying in their usual shrill manner, and calling down blessings on the Sultan and his family. The armed people who came from the town amounted to about six or seven hundred, not including lookers-on, of at least the same number. The Sultan’s horses, in golden trappings, and led by well dressed slaves, advanced in front, under three silk Tripolitan flags, striped red and yellow horizontally. A curious interruption took place during our progress, in consequence of a man’s horse requiring to stale, when the whole procession, following the example of the Sultan, stopped for him; and we again proceeded with much solemnity. Only two other stoppages took place during the day; once when a band of slaves came and prostrated themselves before Mukni, and at another time when his majesty halted to regale himself with a fresh quid of tobacco. Amongst many laughable incidents which occurred, an unfortunate black drummer was tilted with his drum over the head of the donkey he rode, which ludicrous disaster occasioned much mirth, and even caused Mukni’s state frown to relax. The town’s people, on joining us, advanced in a straight line, until within about a hundred yards, when, firing their muskets, and setting up a loud yell, they rushed forward, and surrounded the Sultan, to kiss his hands. After these ceremonies, they divided themselves into small parties, and expended a great deal of powder in sham fights.

A sand wind on the Desert.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

We arrived at 10 in the town of Sockna, سكنا, and were directed to the house which had been prepared for us. In the evening our camels also arrived; and now we arrayed ourselves in our most costly dresses, and went to pay our respects to the Sultan. We found him surrounded by some hundred Arabs, all talking at once, and disputing about money matters, while Mukni appeared to listen to them with extraordinary patience. We now had become better acquainted with Arabic, and I profited much by teaching the Sultan’s little son Yussuf to speak English.

Sockna stands on an immense plain of gravel; bounded to the south by the Soudah mountains, at about fifteen miles; by the mountains of Wadan about thirty miles to the eastward; a distant range to the west; and those I have already mentioned on passing through to the north. The town is walled, and may contain 2000 persons; more than half the people we saw this day were from Hoon and Wadan. There are small projections from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It has seven gates, only one of which will admit a loaded camel. The streets are very narrow, and the houses are built of mud and small stones mixed, many of them having a story above the ground floor. A small court is open in the centre; and the windows, or more properly the doors, which open from this area, give the only light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an equal number, not yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These dates grow in a belt of sand, at about two or three miles distant from the town, and are of a quality far superior to any produced in the north of Africa. Owing to their excellence, they are sold at a very high price at Tripoli. The adjoining country is entirely destitute of shrubs, or any kind of food for camels, which are therefore sent to graze about five miles off; while in the town all animals are fed on dates. Sheep are brought here from Benioleed, and are, in consequence of coming from such a distance, very dear. In the gardens, which are about three miles from the town, barley, maize, and gussob, قصب, are cultivated, as well as a few onions, turnips, and peppers. The quantity of flies here is immense, and all the people carry little flappers, made of bunches of wild bulls’ hair, tied to a short stick, in order to keep these pests at a distance. The dates all being deposited in store-houses in the town, may account, in some degree, for the multitude of these insects; which, in a few minutes, fill every dish or bowl containing any liquid. The duties paid by this place amount to 2000 dollars annually, exclusive of a tax of one dollar on each two hundred date trees. All the people attached to the Sultan, and ourselves also, received food twice a day from the Sheikh, who collected it from the inhabitants; our horses likewise got a daily portion of dates.

The costume here is the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals: a few, whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli. The neat appearance of the men, in general, is very striking, compared with that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are considered exceedingly handsome; indeed, one or two whom I saw at Fatma’s were really so, and as fair as Europeans; but they are noted for their profligacy and love of intrigue.

When the kingdom of Fezzan was governed by a native Prince, this town and the two neighbouring ones were, in a manner, independent; the distance from their own capital, as well as from Tripoli, securing them from surprise. All discontented or disaffected people, from either country, took refuge here, and the population was, at that time, more than double what it now is. The people of Sockna speak a language peculiar to themselves and to the Tuarick of the Great Desert; it is called Ertāna, and is, I believe, the original Breber tongue. In another part of this work, I have given a short vocabulary of it. Mukni receives all his tribute in person, and is, from daylight until dark, sitting in the midst of the Arabs. As soon as the business of one party is settled, a prayer is recited, and room is left for another equally noisy set, who, though they dispute and make all sort of difficulty about paying their money, are never suffered by Mukni to gain their point: at the very moment indeed when they appear most confident of having their complaints attended to, some one of Mukni’s men cries out “The Fattha!” (or first chapter of the Koran), every one joining in that prayer. This is the signal for the poor creatures to retire, and they are then obliged to consider their claims as settled.

The Sheikh is in continual apprehensions of losing his life; his predecessor having, the year before, been found one night with his throat cut, and no one was allowed to inquire who committed the deed. The inhabitants were obliged to pay a fine or penalty of 2000 dollars to Mukni (who alone was supposed guilty), in consequence of the murder having been perpetrated in the town.

It being necessary for the Sultan to employ persons of trust to receive his taxes at Hoon and Wadan, as well as from the neighbouring Arabs, he proposed sending with them his young son Yussuf, allowing Mr. Ritchie and myself also to accompany them, in order to afford us a safe opportunity of seeing those places. A troop of about thirty horsemen being prepared, on the 14th of June we set out. Little Yussuf was placed under the charge of a man named Ibrahim, who had also orders to attend to and supply all our wants.

After passing over the plain, and through the palms, east by south ten miles, we arrived at Hoon, حون. It is a smaller town than Sockna, but walled, and built in the same manner: its palms and gardens are close to the walls. It has three gates, three mosques, and a large building which is dignified with the name of a castle, although it does not appear even to have a loophole for musketry. The inhabitants, having about three hundred muskets, came out to welcome Yussuf, and we met with the same boisterous reception as was given a few days before to the Sultan. A number of dancing women performed in the court of the house in which we were assembled, the greatest part of the day; and in the evening the slaves joined the concert with their cymbals. The whole was so completely to the taste of Mukni’s men, and continued so long, that the performers were literally tired out. When they came to request corn or money from the spectators, it was to us they first applied, as considering us the greatest personages; but we were so poor, in despite of our fine garments, that we actually had nothing to give, which disappointed and astonished them much.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

In the burying-grounds near the town we observed that nearly all the graves were ornamented with one or more ostrich eggs, as were the doors and angles of the mosques, and their enclosures. We entered the tomb of a Marāboot, and standing near the grave, recited the “Fatha” aloud. In the evening we visited the gardens, which are close to the town, the latter being completely hidden from the view by the thick palms which surround it. The soil is sand, but the grain was in the most luxuriant state of forwardness, owing to its being constantly refreshed by little channels from the wells, the water of which is brackish.

The people of the town having been told what sum of money they were required to collect before we returned from Wadan, we proceeded on the 15th April to that place, passing over a barren stony flat east by north twelve or thirteen miles. The town is not walled, and appears very inferior to the other two in point of neatness, comfort, and convenience, though its aspect is much more pleasing, as it is built on a conical hill, on the top of which are some enclosed houses, called the Castle. Here there is a well of great depth, cut through the solid rock, and evidently not the work of the Bedouins. One of the Shreefs took us into a mosque, that we might examine a curious stone, bearing an Arabic inscription in raised letters, and, from its date, it must have been above six hundred years old. It was let into the mud wall, but no one knew where it had been found. Mr. Ritchie did not attempt to copy it, as we were not yet enough acquainted with the customs of the Arabs to know if it would be permitted. The tombs and mosques, as at Hoon, were ornamented with quantities of ostrich eggs.

The natives of Wadan are Arabs of the tribe Moajer مواجر, who chiefly spend their time in attending their flocks at the Syrtis الصرت, and resident shreefs, or descendants of the Prophet; the latter forming the greater part of the population. There is a chain of mountains, a few miles east of the town, called also Wadan, on account of the immense number of buffaloes to be found there, and which are of three species; viz. the Wadan, an animal of the size of an ass, having very large horns, short reddish hide, and large bunches of hair hanging from each shoulder, to the length of eighteen inches or two feet: they have very large heads, and are very fierce. The Bogra el Weish البقرّالويش, which is a red buffalo, slow in its motions, having large horns, and being of the size of an ordinary cow; and the white buffalo of a lighter and more active make, very shy and swift, and not easily procured. The calving time of these animals is in April or May. There are also in these mountains great quantities of ostriches, by hunting which many of the natives subsist. All the Arabs here agree respecting the manner in which these birds sit on their eggs, and which I was not before aware of. They are not left to be hatched by the warmth of the sun, but the parent bird forms a rough nest, in which she covers from fourteen to eighteen eggs, and regularly sits on them in the same manner as the common fowl does on her chickens; the male occasionally relieving the female. It is during the breeding season that the greatest numbers are procured, the Arabs shooting the old ones while on their nests. At all the three towns, Sockna, Hoon, and Wadan, it is the custom to keep tame ostriches in a stable, and in two years, to take three cuttings of their feathers. I imagine, from what I have seen of the skins of ostriches brought for sale, that all the fine feathers sent to Europe are from tame birds; the wild ones being generally so ragged and torn, that not above half a dozen good perfect ones can be found. The white feathers are what I allude to; the black, being shorter and more flexible, are generally good. All the camels belonging to these people are sent to the Syrtis, to pasture; a distance of about five days’ journey. It sometimes occurs, that after a great deal of rain has fallen, the plains beyond the Wadan mountains acquire sufficient verdure to feed the cattle for a few weeks.

On this evening we had some juice of the palm-tree, called Lackbi, brought us, together with some milk; and the dancing women remained until midnight. The tribute was all paid at the evening prayer.

April 16th.—Returned to Hoon, where we were received as before. It being Friday, we saw every one preparing to go to the assembly at the Mosque. Mr. Ritchie declined attending; but I was determined to make my debut, and to see how I could go through the necessary formalities. I therefore prepared myself, by endeavouring to appear quite unconcerned, and readily accompanied the Sultan’s chief followers, who seemed pleased at my joining them. There were about 200 people present, and additional prayers were recited in honour of the Sultan (Mukni) and his family. I found I acquitted myself very well, although one or two of the old people, as I thought, viewed me with an eye of suspicion, well aware that I had but very little knowledge of Arabic. The tribute-money was brought this day by the Sheikh, a great crowd attending him. A little boy who was amongst them made himself known to us, as having come in the same kafflé with us from Tripoli. We recollected, and made use of him to show us round the town, which he did readily, occasionally running before us, and calling to all the girls of his acquaintance, to come out and look at the new Mamlukes. This they did in crowds, and with their faces uncovered: some of them were rather pretty, and appeared to take pleasure in conversing with us, laughing much at the mistakes we made, in consequence of our slight knowledge of Arabic. The boy asked us many amusing questions about our future intentions, and was particularly anxious to know where we were going, and whether for the purpose of collecting slaves, as he suspected. We, of course, disclaimed any such intention, adding, that in our own country we looked on slavery with horror. At this he expressed great contempt of us, exclaiming, “D——n their fathers, the asses!” a common oath amongst these people, “what are they made for, but to serve us? go then and take them, for they are Kaffirs, and we cannot do without them.” I mention this as a specimen of all the Arabs, who believe most religiously, that the Negroes were only created for their service. The natives of Hoon are of the tribe Fateima فتيمه, and are of good character.

17th April.—We returned to Sockna. On this day I made an attempt to prove how far it was possible to exercise authority over the Arabs, and Mr. Ritchie not wishing to interfere, left me to act as I thought proper. The case was this: during our journey from Tripoli I had observed a poor slave, of about fifty years of age, belonging to the owner of some of our camels, so fatigued as to be scarcely able to follow us. His frame was quite emaciated, and his feet and legs much swelled. His inhuman master, notwithstanding the deplorable state in which he was, invariably sent him out all night to attend the camels, and he only brought them back to commence another sad day’s journey, during which he was frequently beaten. On arriving at Sockna he was sent on to the desert with the animals, and returned to the town this day in a high fever, and in a most miserable condition. His master, according to custom, beat him severely with a stick, and finding the poor black unable to cry out, actually took stones and beat him on the head with them, another Arab assisting in the cruel task. So much unnecessary barbarity induced me to endeavour to defend the poor sufferer; but my interference was greeted with no very polite expressions, and my endeavouring to prove that the poor black was a human creature as well as his master, exposed me to much laughter and contempt. I pursued my point, however, and immediately went to Mukni’s chief black, swearing by the Sultan’s head, that he should instantly punish the master of the slave. To my great satisfaction he immediately complied, giving the wretch a very severe bastinado, as hard as two men could lay it on. When I returned to our house, the other Arab laughed at and taunted me to such a degree, that I was obliged (to his great astonishment) to give him a good thrashing, not a little apprehensive, I must own, lest some revenge should be taken on me in consequence; but I soon found I had nothing to dread, for these very men never after omitted coming daily to kiss my hand; and, while I was in sight, always caressed the poor slave, who from that time became a kind of pensioner on us.

The Arabs of Sockna are of the tribe Riahh رياه. There are also some wanderers from Tripoli and the Syrtis, who frequent these towns on the soofra جوفره, or frontier. They are of the tribes Waled boo Saif اولاد ابو سيف, Waled ben Miriam اولاد بن مريم and Sohhoob سحوب, and change their residence as they find pasture. Their little moveable tents are their only habitations; for even in the neighbourhood of towns they make a small encampment while they remain.

All our business being settled, we prepared to leave this place. Mr. Ritchie presented the Sheikh with some powder and cutlery ware, which, as I discovered some time after, was taken away from him by the covetous Sultan for his own use.

Lilla Fatema was at this time very ill, and as Mr. Ritchie declined visiting her, I became her doctor, and by means of some compounds of my own invention, quite cured her. Amongst the little secrets of her illness, I found out that she indulged herself in pretty large potions of Lackbi, which no doubt occasioned the head-aches she complained of.

Mr. Ritchie made several attempts with Gambay’s dipping needle, the results of which are with his papers, and we each brought Sockna’s latitude to 29° 5′ 36″ north, by observation of Spica Virginis.

On 22d of April left Sockna in company with the Sultan. At 11.30. we were attended clear of the town by a great multitude of people, and a prayer being recited, the horsemen all stopped, holding their open hands with the palms towards heaven. After this, each one kissed the Sultan’s hand, and returned home. At one we passed a small spring, the only one in the country, of about two feet in diameter, in which the water was pretty good. The Sultan here told us, with an air of firm belief, that a Marāboot once travelling this way, was overcome by thirst, and that by striking the ground with his stick (in the name of God), this water arose. At 3.30. we entered a wadey in the Soudah mountains, called Octooffa اكطوفه, bearing from Sockna south by west, and at six encamped near a well of tolerably good water, called Gutfa قتفا. Our place of encampment was a small plain, without any other vegetation than a few prickly bushes of talhh. This spot was surrounded on every side by high mountains of basalt, which gave it the appearance of being in the crater of a volcano. We here presented our Bouzaferr بوزفرّ, which is a kind of footing paid by all travellers on entering Fezzan, and is attended with ceremonies something similar to those observed on crossing the line. Should any person refuse the necessary distribution of food, the Arabs dig a grave, telling him that it is made expressly for him, and howling as for a dead person, with many other ridiculous pranks, which generally produce the wished-for feast. We took with us, for this purpose, two sheep, and a quantity of meal, and distributed portions to all the tents, much to the satisfaction of our fellow travellers. Lilla Fatma also paid her footing, as did one or two others, who had never before passed these mountains. We this day had advanced south 10° west eighteen miles.

April 25th.—Having filled five days water for ourselves and horses, we left the well at 6.40. A.M. The camels took a circuitous route along a deep valley, owing to a very steep mountain called Nufdai نوفدي, lying in front of us. The horse and footmen ascended it at 9.40. by a most difficult path of large irregular masses of basalt. The horses, however, were sure-footed, and at 10.40. we again descended to a wadey, called Zgar, where the camels joined us, after having been four hours winding round the foot of the mountain, which we had crossed in one. At 11.35. ascended from the wadey to a flat, called Dahr t’Moumen دحارتمومين (or the believer’s back). The basalt here was in less quantities, and often in small broken pieces, resembling gravel. At 1.10. we descended to a wadey, called Emzairaat مزيرعت, when we saw a few antelopes.

Here, while I was resting under a tree, a man came and told me that he had observed a snake of the most venomous species, called Effa الفّا, coiled up under a bush. I instantly armed myself with a ramrod, and having discovered the reptile, pinned it to the ground by a stab through the lower jaw. Belford just then came up, and fancying it was of a harmless kind, took it by the tail: as he was on the opposite side of me, I did not perceive him, and having pressed another stick on the creature’s head, I withdrew the ramrod, in order to get a better hold of it. At this moment Belford again pulled, and extricated the snake, which turned upon and attempted to bite him; its tail, however, luckily broke, and it fell back into the bush, where I immediately despatched it. Had it wounded Belford, as it was on the point of doing, his death would have been inevitable, as we had no instrument at hand for cutting out the venom, or any fire with which to burn it, as is done with effect by the Arabs. On examining the snake, I found it was of the same species as some I had seen at Tripoli; those, however, did not exceed six inches in length, whereas this was about two feet long, and very bulky. Their colour is generally a dull reddish-brown, with black spots; the belly yellow, and aspect particularly disagreeable and malignant.

The movements of this snake are very peculiar: it does not propel itself in the same way as other serpents, but in a lateral manner, advances its right side, and then draws forward its head at each motion, while, in the act of gliding on, it forms a figure resembling the letter S.

Our road lay through several gloomy wadeys, when, at three, we stopped in one called Tingareer طنقارير. At 4.15. the camels came up, and as the place afforded some few bushes, we encamped there for the purpose of refreshing them.

April 24th.—Camels started at 5.45. At ten, a distant mountain north-west, called El Kohol (from its blackness). At twelve, after passing a stony track, came to a wadey Mesheil مشيل. At two P.M. cleared the mountainous part of the Soudah, and descended to a plain, El Maitba Soudah الميتباسوده, from its being covered with small pieces of basalt. At 2.45. came to a spot called El Maitba Baida بيدا, having not the slightest trace of basalt, and being covered with a very small white gravel.

We did not see, any where, the least appearance of vegetation; but observed many skeletons of animals, which had died of fatigue on the Desert, and occasionally the grave of some human being. All these bodies were so dried by the extreme heat of the sun, that putrefaction did not appear to have taken place after death. In recently expired animals I could not perceive the slightest offensive smell; and in those long dead, the skin, with the hair on it, remained unbroken and perfect, although so brittle as to break with a slight blow. The sand-winds never cause these carcasses to change their places, as in a short time a slight mound is formed round them, and they become stationary.

At 5.50. we passed low table-topped hills east and west of us, called El Gaaf القعف. This desert was named Sbir ben Afeen زبيربن عفين. At seven we encamped. The plain round us presented so perfect a horizon, that an astronomical observation might have been taken as at sea. From the excessive dryness of the air, our blankets and barracans emitted electric sparks, and crackled distinctly on being rubbed. The horses’ tails, also, in beating off the flies, had the same effect. Our whole Kafflé were much fatigued. This day we had advanced south-south-west, thirty-five miles.

April 25th.—At four, A.M. the camels set out; 8.15. we passed some sand-hills, called el Ramle Kebeer الرامل كبير, or large sands. At nine we came again on the plain, which was covered with a white encrusted clay; at three, P.M. passed el Ramle Shraya, or small sands, and at 4.45. descended by some precipitous rocks to a sandy, irregular plain, very difficult and dangerous, until we had crossed the sand-hills. At about half a mile to the eastward of the pass, which, as well as the plain, is called Koneir كنير, is a singular rock in a conical form, surmounted by another resembling a turret, called Amaymet Saad اميمت سعد. Hills over the watering place were pointed out to us in the distance, south-south-west. At nine we entered a wadey, called Om el Abeed ام العبيد (the Mother of the Slaves), and at eleven arrived at a well of the same name, situated amongst the mountains, and having a quantity of bushes growing about it.

We found here two large flocks of sheep and goats on the way to Morzouk from Benioleed. We had supposed some flocks were ahead of us, five or six sheep having been picked up by the Kafflé, while still alive, but unable to walk, and had, therefore, been left to perish. At twelve the camels arrived, having travelled twenty hours, or above forty-eight miles, south-south-west. The wind was south during the whole day, bringing with it such showers of burning sand, as almost to smother us. We frequently lost our track, and were unable to distinguish objects at the distance even of a few yards. The flatness of the country offering no opposition to the wind, we were exposed to all its fury. The little children of the liberated negroes walked all this day, suffering most severely, their heads being shaved, and constantly exposed to the burning heat of the sun. One of the poor women was taken in labour in the afternoon, and we were obliged to tie her on a camel to prevent her falling off, and being left on the road to perish. We had arrived at this place so late at night as to be unable to prepare any thing to eat.

April 26th.—Started at seven, A.M. leaving the camels to rest, and the horsemen rode on for Zeighan زيغن, which place we reached at ten, having passed over a rocky country. The village is walled, and surrounded by a large forest of palms. We had here a most ample quantity of provisions served up to us, and did great honour to our meal. The camels arrived in the evening. Latitude of Zeighan, 27° 26′ north.

April 27th.—Moved on at 6 A.M. from Zeighan, passing over a barren plain, having small basaltic hillocks; after travelling south 23° west eight miles, arrived at Samnoo, سمنو, a village of the same description, although larger, and rather more neatly walled than the others. It has three tolerably built white-washed minarets, rising to some height above the houses, which produce a very pleasing appearance. These were the only minarets we had seen since we left Tripoli. The houses are very neatly built, and the rooms are washed with a yellow mud, instead of white-wash, which has a very pretty effect. This town, as well as Zeighan, is famed for the number and sanctity of its Marāboots; and I can vouch for their being the best Arab cooks we had as yet met with. Palms encircle the town, and the gardens are considered very good.

April 28th.—We left Samnoo at 7 P.M. riding, in the dark, over a barren plain of gravel; and at midnight arrived at Temenhiut, تمنحينت, where we found our tents ready pitched outside the palms surrounding the town, which is but an inconsiderable one. Made twenty miles south 75° west: Mukni told us he had never entered the town, although he had encamped near it above twenty times.

April 29th.—We left this place at 4.30. P.M. and at 8 encamped on a small plain.

April 30th.—Broke up our encampment at 7 A.M. and proceeded for two hours over the hills, whence we descended a fine pass to a plain, on which stands the town of Sebha; the singular appearance of which, from the heights, was very picturesque. It is surrounded by groves of palms, while the rest of the plain is a dreary desert. At 10 we arrived at the town, which rises like a little amphitheatre: it is mud walled, and has a high square white-washed minaret to its principal Mosque. All the male population came out to salute the Sultan; and I observed that at this place the change of colour began, the people here being Mulattoes. I remarked too, that the greater part of their muskets had match-locks, and that not above one in five went off. The houses appear in neat order, but very low; and the walls are built in an irregular, but strong manner, of mud. Mr. Ritchie made the latitude of Sebha 27° 3′ 8″ north.

May 1st.—The Sultan, after many disputes respecting money matters, set off with us at 5.50. P.M. the camels having departed some hours sooner. Our road, after passing the palms, was still, as it had lately been, over a gravelly plain, having at intervals large black detached stones lying on it. At midnight the horsemen stopped, and at 1 A.M. the camels came up. We lay this night on a low plain, amongst some small sand hills, which were quite barren. As the camels arrived so late, there was great confusion in unloading them; and the men were too much occupied to pay any attention to the ladies in the Shiblias. Fatma, finding no helping hand near to assist her, boldly attempted to uncoach herself; but the exertion, owing to her excessive fat, caused her to fall, or rather roll off the camel, to the great amusement of the Arabs.

May 2nd.—At 6.45. proceeded on our way, and at 12 came into a wadey, having many palm bushes thickly growing about. A heavy sand wind was blowing, and the sun was quite obscured by it. My horse, taking fright at some object which he saw but indistinctly, reared up, and fell back with me under him. Happily, I only received a severe contusion on the arm. At 1.30. P.M. we arrived at Ghroodwa, غرودوه, a miserable collection of mud huts, containing about fifty people, who appeared a ragged drunken set, as the immense number of tapped palm trees testified. From the ruins of some large mud edifices, this place seems to have once been of more importance. The palms, which extend for ten or fifteen miles east and west, are the property of the Sultan, and appear in worse condition than any we have seen.

May 3rd.—At 6.30. A.M. we left Ghroodwa, and again entered on a barren stony plain; at 12 passed a small wadey called Wad el nimmel, وادالنمّل, (or the valley of ants), from the immense number of those insects, of a beautiful pink colour, which are found there. At 6.40. P.M. we cleared this dreary waste, and entered on a sandy plain, which was in many places thickly encrusted with salt. A few scattered palms, and some ill built and ruined huts, appeared at intervals, betokening the greatest wretchedness. At 8 reached a few buildings of this description, called Dgleim, ظليمر. At 11 the camels arrived. The inhabitants from all the neighbouring villages had assembled here; and I really believe more powder was expended at this place, than at any other we had passed through, although their muskets could not have amounted altogether to more than fifty. The Sultan repeatedly called out, “Enough, Enough!” but the natives only answered by fresh discharges, and exclaiming, “We have plenty of powder.” As I was walking across the little space in which they were exercising, one of the shooters, to do me honour, fired his piece at my legs, which being bare, received above a dozen coarse grains, like small shot. I bled a little, which quite frightened the man, lest he should be discovered. I, however, made light of it, and rubbed myself with salt and water.

The dancing ladies were indefatigable; and when I went to sleep at midnight, were making as much noise, and were as active as ever. Mr. Ritchie’s horse had for the last four or five days entirely failed him, and was unable even to keep pace with the camels: he did not come up with us until a little after midnight. As we were only at the distance of three hours from Morzouk, many of the people were occupied during the night in preparations for their entry into the capital.

May 4th.—At 7 A.M. having shaved, washed, and adorned ourselves in the finest clothes which we had at hand, we started. Mukni, however, unwilling that his new Mamlukes should be less fine than his own people, sent for two splendid bornouses, which he lent to Mr. Ritchie and myself for this grand occasion, making us ride on the right and left of him. Travelling over a desert plain, until 9.30. A.M. west by south, we entered the palm groves and gardens of Morzouk; we then saw a large body of horse and foot advancing, with three silk flags. When the horsemen came within five hundred yards of us, they set off at full speed, and on joining our party, threw themselves from their horses, and ran to kiss the Sultan’s hand. His eldest son, Sidi Aleiwa, سيدي عليوه, headed them; and after he had performed the same salutation, they all remounted and joined in the procession. On approaching the town we were joined by the dancers, drummers, and pipers. Two men stationed themselves on each side of the Sultan, bearing fans of ostrich feathers, with which they beat off the flies which incommoded him. We entered the town at 10.30. A.M. preceded by the led horses, and six silk flags. The horsemen having formed in two lines, in which I joined them, skirmished until we came to the gate.

CHAPTER III.
ARRIVAL AT MORZOUK.

Mode of travelling across the Desert — Interview with the Sultan — Description of Morzouk — Population — Castle of the Sultan — Illness and severe Distress of the Author and his Companions — Arrival of a Kafflé of Tuarick — Fast of Rhamadan — Departure of an Expedition to obtain Slaves from the Country of Borgoo — Diseases of the Inhabitants, and the Native Methods of Cure — Feast of Aidel Shraya — Observations on the Tuarick — Their Religion, Dress, Customs, and Language — Ghraat — Its Government, Laws, and Trade — Market there — Arrival of a Kafflé from Bornou with Slaves — Information respecting Bornou and the surrounding Countries, as collected from the Traders — Of Kashna and Soudan, in general — Account of Hornemann and his Death — Tembuctoo — General Remarks on the Geography of the Interior, and probable Course of the Niger — Vocabulary of the Fellātta Language — Conjectures on the Fate of Park.

On our entry into the town, the soldiers raced up a very broad street, firing and shouting, whilst the women uttered their shrill cry; and the scene was altogether highly interesting. On passing a large open space, before we reached the castle and walls surrounding it, we were saluted from two six-pounders. We did not enter the castle itself, but were conducted to a large house within its outward boundary, which had been prepared for our reception. An old Mamluke, Hadje Mahmoud حاج محمود took charge of us, and having passed our threshold “in the name of God,” brought us a hot mess and a large mat. We waited until the afternoon, and were then conducted to pay our respects to the Sultan, and to be introduced to his son, a boy of about thirteen years of age, born of a slave of Soudan. We, in our turn, were visited by a great number of people; who had, in the space of a few hours, informed themselves, very sagaciously, that we were great men, and had brought 30,000 dollars with us; when, in truth, we had only 300 (which were in Mukni’s hands), and knew not where to procure more. Our horses, which were much fatigued and very thin, were fed from the castle.

We had been thirty-nine days in coming from Tripoli; the road, with the exception of the immediate vicinity of the towns, was a dreary desert, having but few wells, and those of salt water. Nothing could have been more fortunate than our travelling with the Sultan; our difficulties must otherwise have been very great. Mukni, to do him justice, showed us every attention; and we always partook of his meals when in the towns. I was his constant companion, and being of a less sedate disposition than Mr. Ritchie, he always invited me to ride by him, generally treating me with some cakes or dainties, which he carried with him. In return, I allowed him a draught from my water-skin. He spoke a little Italian, and amused himself much by asking questions about my country, of the wealth and grandeur of which he had formed very exalted ideas; particularly respecting the funds, or banco, as he called it. He certainly evinced a great desire to lodge some of his property, in this manner, in England, provided he could arrange it privately; it being against the Mahommedan religion to receive interest.

When I told him that English women were allowed to have money in their own power, and that some of them had immense fortunes, he seemed scarcely to credit me. He was much astonished at being told, that young men often did not marry until they had arrived at 25 or 30 years of age: this he considered as highly improper; but in some degree reconciled it to his way of thinking, by supposing that they must, in that case, have a great number of concubines, and that they only married those who brought them children. He did not find fault with our customs in that respect, as he had, himself, only one wife; but he had 50 Negresses, which was considered a very moderate allowance for a Sultan of Fezzan. He frequently asked me how natural children were disposed of, when it was requisite to conceal their birth from the parents of the offending parties. His pointed manner of questioning me on this subject led me to some suspicion of his motives for the inquiry; and I afterwards discovered, from several of his people, that he invariably caused to be strangled all babes born of his Negresses by other men, and that it was the general custom at Tripoli, to poison illegitimate infants in the womb. The mother of little Yussuf, his son, had a child about a year since, perfectly black. Mukni being satisfied it could not be his, sent for the suspected father, and made him strangle the infant: the mother was allowed to return to her own country, which was considered a great piece of lenity, death being usually the punishment for such an offence.

Our travelling pace was a walk of the horses, which generally got considerably in advance of the camels. At noon, or about that time, if we could find a tree, we stopped under it; if not, we sat under the shadow of our horses. The Sultan was grand victualler, and generally produced a bag of bread or dates, or the remains of his dinner of the day before. Each one then had a portion, not sufficient to be called a dinner, but to break his fast; and after eating, and drinking a few mouthfuls of water, stretched himself out, and slept until the camels came up: the party then mounted and rode on. These rests were very refreshing to the men and horses; but the loaded camels never made any stop, neither did the poor Negroes, who, with their wives and even little children, plodded on the whole day, over a burning soil, sometimes for twenty, and often for sixteen hours, whenever want of water made a forced march necessary. Several of the smallest of the black children, though probably not more than four or five years of age, walked for many hours with great strength in the early part of the day, having but a few rags to cover them, and when unable to proceed further, were put on the camels for the remainder of the day. One of our party, a poor old man, totally blind, arrived safe at Morzouk from Tripoli. He had walked all the way over the rocks and plains, led by his wife, and was kept alive by the hope of once more hearing the voices of his countrymen.

When we stopped for the night, it was generally so contrived that we should lie in some spot where bushes might be found for the camels to browse upon; but even though there might be no wood or herbage, a wadey was always preferred, as more sheltered. Our tents were pitched, if the ground was sufficiently soft to admit the pegs, and our bales and chests so placed, as to form a shelter for those who had no tents; affording a bulwark against the wind and sand. The little resistance offered by any intervening objects to the winds of the desert, renders them very powerful, and the stillness of the night, in blowing weather, is particularly awful. The tents are no sooner pitched, than the camels are turned out to feed on the thin and scattered bushes, and parties go to collect wood; the horses are hobbled, watered from the skins, and then fed. Should there be no wood, camels’ dung is an excellent substitute, as it burns like peat, and forms a very glowing fire. A hole is dug in the ground, and three stones so placed, as to support the little copper pot. Cusscussou or Bazeen is then prepared. The Sultanesses are no contemptible cooks, and they made every evening an excellent supper for their master. When no fire is to be had, Zumeeta is prepared with water and oil, and so eaten. We usually managed, in an evening, to make a little coffee, of which Mukni always came and partook; and as soon as he left the tent, his slaves and people generally succeeded him, wishing also to taste some. If we had time, we occasionally drank a cup of it in the morning fasting, which we found, in the most sultry weather, prevented thirst. I observed, that we never required water if we abstained from eating in the early part of the day, and I thus account for the Arabs drinking so little: on the contrary, if any quantity of water is taken on an empty stomach, the person who indulges in it suffers great thirst for the remainder of the day. When hot, it is much better to drink from the palm of the hand, which prevents the possibility of taking too great a draught at once. It is very refreshing after a long day’s journey, to be well oiled all over; and a wet cloth applied to the back of the neck relieves the fulness of the head, after being many hours exposed to the sun.—Horses should not be brought near the wells until it is their turn to drink; if they are kept in sight of the water, without being able to reach it, they frequently become furious, and many of them greedily devour the mud.

The water is generally carried on camels set apart for that purpose, and having no other loads. The usual quantity is six gerbas, or water-skins, three on each side, one slung above the other. Each of these skins is about fifty pounds in weight when full. Should the Kafflé expect to be four or six days without finding water, every camel which carries goods, has, in addition to its load, a skin on each side. In fact, horses generally occasion more trouble to a caravan than any thing else. The immense quantity of water necessary to be taken for them is always averaged at one camel for each horse, not including other loads of corn or dates for their food.

Nothing can be more overpowering than the south wind, El Gibli قبلي, or the east, El Shirghi الشرقي; each of which is equally to be dreaded. In addition to the excessive heat and dryness of these winds, they are so impregnated with sand, that the air is darkened by it, the sky appears of a dusky yellow, and the sun is barely perceptible. The eyes become red, swelled, and inflamed; the lips and skin parched and chopped; while severe pain in the chest is very generally felt, in consequence of the quantities of sand unavoidably inhaled. Nothing, indeed, is able to resist the unwholesome effects of this wind. On opening our boxes, we found that many little articles, and some of our instruments, which had been carefully packed, were entirely split and destroyed. Gales of the kind here described generally continue ten or twelve hours, yet when a change takes place, the air seems so fresh and delightful, that the miseries of the sand-wind are soon forgotten. We sometimes met people on our road, who invariably at parting recited the Fatha, each one religiously stroking his beard as soon as he had concluded this prayer.

Being now settled for a time in Morzouk, we went about, in order to become better acquainted with the people. Mr. Ritchie made magnificent presents to the Sultan and his sons, and every thing seemed to promise well, except that we had but little money, and were obliged to live in a most economical manner on corn, and seldom able to afford meat; having not only ourselves but our black servant and four horses to feed.

We had now acquired some little knowledge of the language, when, on the first Friday after our arrival, Mukni sent to tell us that he intended going to the Mosque at the Asr عسر, or afternoon prayers, and that he expected to see us there. As this was to be Mr. Ritchie’s first appearance in a Mosque, we had no sooner dressed ourselves in our best clothes than we practised the necessary prostrations, until we heard the crier call to prayers, when our old Mamluke came to conduct us to the church. We found a large assembly sitting in rows on mats, our places being in front. The Sultan soon after entered with his guards, and the Mosque was instantly filled with a strong smell of attar of roses, which his Majesty used in large quantities. Mr. Ritchie and myself got through our part very well, and after the service was over, waited at the door to see the Sultan mount and return to the Castle.

His horse, richly caparisoned, was led to an earthen seat, from which he mounted, three led horses preceding him. He was surrounded by his armed slaves, and fanned by men with ostrich feathers; and thus proceeded, slowly, and amidst an immense crowd, to the Castle, a distance of about five hundred yards. When arrived there, he remained for a few minutes in the court-yard, seated in his state chair, and receiving the homage of his subjects, leaning on two of his principal people; he then ascended into the Castle, where we followed him, and were allowed to sit on the same carpet as himself. He here paid to Mr. Ritchie the three hundred dollars which he owed him, and at the same time made most flattering promises about assisting us at any future period in money matters. We implicitly believed his professions, and left the Castle much delighted at possessing such a friend in one, who, had he been ill-disposed, had so much power to injure us.

At our return home, on examining our stock of eatables, we found that we had been robbed of a large sack of rice, another of flour, and a great quantity of cusscussou. From our hardware we missed one pistol, both locks of a double-barrelled gun, and several bags of shot. We made instant complaint to Mukni, who promised that every inquiry should be made for the stolen articles, and that they should, if found, be faithfully returned to us. We laid in a stock of dates for our horses, and commenced keeping house on our own account.

Our habitation was a very good one, and as all the large houses are built on nearly the same plan, I may, by describing this, give an idea of all the rest. A large door, sufficiently high to admit a camel, opened into a broad passage, or Skeefa سكيفه; on one side of which was a tolerable stable for five horses; and close to it a small room for the slaves, whose duty it might be to attend the house. A door opposite to that of the stable opened into the Kowdi كودي, or large square room, the roof of which, at the height of eighteen feet, was supported by four palm-trees as pillars. In the centre of the roofing was a large open space, about twelve feet by nine; from this the house and rooms receive light (not to mention dust), and excessive heat in the afternoon. At the end of the room, facing the door, a large seat of mud was raised, about eighteen inches high, and twelve feet in length. Heaps of this description, though higher, are found at the doors of most houses, and are covered with loungers in the cool of the morning and evening. Our large room was fifty feet by thirty-nine. From the sides, doors opened into smaller ones, which might be used as sleeping or store-rooms, but were generally preferred for their coolness. Their only light was received from the door. Ascending a few steps, there was a kind of gallery over the side rooms, and in it were two small apartments, but so very hot as to be almost useless. From the large room was a passage leading to a yard, having also small houses attached to it in the same manner, and a well of comparatively good water. The floors were of sand, and the walls of mud roughly plastered, and showing every where the marks of the only trowel used in the country—the fingers of the right hand. There are no windows to any of the houses; but some rooms have a small hole in the ceiling, or high up in the wall.

Morzouk is a walled town, containing about 2500 inhabitants, who are blacks, and who do not, like the Arabs, change their residence. The walls are of mud, having round buttresses, with loopholes for musketry, rudely built, but sufficiently strong to guard against attack: they are about fifteen feet in height, and at the bottom eight feet in thickness, tapering, as all walls in this country do, towards the top. The town has seven gates, four of which are built up in order to prevent the people escaping when they are required to pay their duties. A man is appointed by the Sultan to attend each of these gates, day and night, lest any slaves or merchandize should be smuggled into the town. The people, in building the walls and houses, fabricate a good substitute for stones, (which are not to be found in these parts), by forming clay into balls, which they dry in the sun, and use with mud as mortar: the walls are thus made very strong; and, as rain is unknown, durable also. The houses, with very few exceptions, are of one story, and those of the poorer sort receive all their light from the doors: these are so low, as to require stooping nearly double to enter them; but the large houses have a capacious outer door; which is sufficiently well contrived, considering the bad quality of the wood that composes them. Thick palm planks, of four or five inches in breadth, (for the size and manner of cutting a tree will not afford more) have a square hole punched through them at the top and bottom, by which they are firmly wedged together, with thick palm sticks; wet thongs of camels’ hide are then tied tightly over them, which, on drying, draw the planks more strongly and securely together. There are no hinges to the doors; but they turn on a pivot, formed on the last plank near the wall, which is always the largest on that account. The locks and keys are very large and heavy, and of curious construction. The houses are generally built in little narrow streets; but there are many open spaces, entirely void of buildings, and covered with sand, on which the camels of the traders remain. Many palms grow in the town, and some houses have small square enclosures, in which are cultivated a few red peppers and onions. The street of entrance is a broad space of at least a hundred yards, leading to the wall that surrounds the castle, and is extremely pretty: here the horsemen have full scope to display their abilities when they skirmish before the Sultan. The castle itself is an immense mud building, rising to the height of eighty or ninety feet, with little battlements on the walls (a fancy of the present Sultan’s); and at a distance really looks warlike. Like all the other buildings, it has no pretensions to regularity: the lower walls are fifty or sixty feet in thickness; the upper taper off to about four or five feet. In consequence of the immense mass of wall, the apartments are very small, and few in number. The rooms occupied by the Sultan are of the best quality, (that is to say, comparatively), for the walls are tolerably smooth, and white-washed, and have ornamental daubs of red paint in blotches, by way of effect. His couch is spread on the ground, and his visitors squat down on the sandy floor at a respectful distance; we, however, were always honoured by having a corner of the carpet offered to us. The best and most airy part of the castle is occupied by the women, who have small rooms round a large court, in which they take exercise, grind corn, cook, and perform other domestic offices. The number called Kibere, or great ladies, seldom exceeds six. This dignified title is generally given to the mothers of the Sultan’s children, or to those, who, having once been great favourites, are appointed governesses to the rest. There are, on the whole, about fifty young women, all black and very comely; and from what stolen glances we could obtain, they appeared extremely well dressed. They are guarded by five eunuchs, who keep up their authority by occasionally beating them. The Sultan has three sons and two daughters, who live with him in this cage, the doors of which are locked at night, and the keys brought to him, so that he remains free from any fear of attack. The castle is entered by a long winding passage in the wall, quite dark and very steep. At the door is a large shed, looking on a square space, capable of containing three or four hundred men closely huddled together. Under this shed is a great chair of state (once finely gilt and ornamented), with a patchwork quilt thrown over it; and behind it are the remains of two large looking-glasses. In this chair the Sultan receives homage every Friday, before he ascends the castle, after returning from the Mosque. This place is the Mejlees, مبولبس, and was the scene of all the cruelties practised by Mukni when he first took possession of the country.

The Castle of Morzouk.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.

There are several pools of stagnant salt water in the town, which, I conceive, in a great measure, promote the advance of the summer fevers and agues. The burying-places are outside the walls, and are of considerable extent. In lieu of stones, small mud embankments are formed round the graves, which are ornamented with shreds of cloth tied to small sticks, with broken pots, and sometimes ostrich eggs. One of the burying-places is for slaves, who are laid very little below the surface; and in some parts the sand has been so carried away by the wind, as to expose their skeletons to view. Owing to the want of wood, no coffins are used; the bodies are merely wrapped in a mat, or linen cloth, and covered with palm branches, over which the earth is thrown. When the branches decay, the earth falls in; and the graves are easily known by being concave instead of convex. The place where the former Sultans are buried is a plain near the town; their graves are only distinguished from those of other people by having a larger proportion of broken pots scattered about them. It is a custom for the relations of the deceased to visit, and occasionally to recite a prayer over the grave, or to repeat a verse of the Koran. Children never pass within sight of the tombs of their parents without stopping to pay this grateful tribute of respect to their memory. Animals are never buried, but thrown on mounds outside the walls, and there left. The excessive heat soon dries up all their moisture, and prevents their becoming offensive; and the hair remains on them, so that they appear like preserved skins.

May 15th.—I was attacked with severe dysentery, which confined me to my bed during twenty-two days, and reduced me to the last extremity. Our little party was at this time miserably poor, for we had only money sufficient for the purchase of corn to keep us alive, and never tasted meat, unless fortunate enough to kill a pigeon in the gardens. My illness was the first break up in our little community, and from that time it rarely happened that one or two of us were not confined to our beds. The extreme saltness of the water, the poor quality of our food, together with the excessive heat and dryness of the climate, long retarded my recovery; and when it did take place, it was looked on as a miracle by those who had seen me in my worst state, and who thought it impossible for me to survive. I was no sooner convalescent, than Mr. Ritchie fell ill, and was confined to his bed with an attack of bilious fever, accompanied with delirium, and great pain in his back and kidneys, for which he required repeated cupping. When a little recovered, he got up for two days, but his disorder soon returned with redoubled and alarming violence. He rejected every thing but water; and, excepting about three hours in the afternoon, remained either constantly asleep, or in a delirious state. Even had he been capable of taking food, we had not the power of purchasing any which could nourish or refresh him. Our money was now all expended, and the Sultan’s treacherous plans to distress us, which daily became too apparent, were so well arranged, that we could not find any one to buy our goods. For six entire weeks we were without animal food, subsisting on a very scanty portion of corn and dates. Our horses were mere skeletons, added to which, Belford became totally deaf, and so emaciated as to be unable to walk.