Man and the Glacial Period

THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES

VOLUME LXIX

THE

INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES.

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THE INTERNATIONAL SCIENTIFIC SERIES

MAN AND
THE GLACIAL PERIOD

BY

G. FREDERICK WRIGHT

D. D., LL. D., F. G. S. A.

PROFESSOR IN OBERLIN THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY
FORMERLY ASSISTANT ON THE UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
AUTHOR OF THE ICE AGE IN NORTH AMERICA.
LOGIC OF CHRISTIAN EVIDENCES, ETC.

WITH AN APPENDIX ON TERTIARY MAN

By PROF. HENRY W. HAYNES

FULLY ILLUSTRATED

SECOND EDITION

NEW YORK
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
1895

Copyright, 1892,

By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY.

Electrotyped and Printed
at the Appleton Press, U. S. A.

TO

JUDGE C. C. BALDWIN

PRESIDENT OF THE WESTERN RESERVE HISTORICAL SOCIETY
CLEVELAND
THIS VOLUME IS DEDICATED
IN RECOGNITION OF
HIS SAGACIOUS AND UNFAILING INTEREST IN
THE INVESTIGATIONS WHICH HAVE MADE IT POSSIBLE

[PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.]

Since, as stated in the Introduction ([page 1]), the plan of this volume permitted only “a concise presentation of the facts,” it was impossible to introduce either full references to the illimitable literature of the subject or detailed discussion of all disputed points. The facts selected, therefore, were for the most part those upon which it was supposed there would be pretty general agreement.

The discussion upon the subject of the continuity of the Glacial period was, however, somewhat elaborate (see pages [106-121], [311], [324], [332]), and was presented with excessive respect for the authority of those who maintain the opposite view; all that was claimed ([page 110]) being that one might maintain the unity or continuity of the Glacial period “without forfeiting his right to the respect of his fellow-geologists.” But it already appears that there was no need of this extreme modesty of statement. On the contrary, the vigorous discussion of the subject which has characterized the last two years reveals a decided reaction against the theory that there has been more than one Glacial epoch in Quaternary times; while there have been brought to light many most important if not conclusive facts in favour of the theory supported in the volume.

In America the continuity of the Glacial period has been maintained during the past two years with important new evidence, among others by authorities of no less eminence and special experience in glacial investigations than Professor Dana,[A] Mr. Warren Upham,[B] and Professor Edward H. Williams, Jr.[C] Professor Williams’s investigations on the attenuated border of the glacial deposits in the Lehigh, the most important upper tributary to the Delaware Valley, Pa., are of important significance, since the area which he so carefully studied lies wholly south of the terminal moraine of Lewis and Wright, and belongs to the portion of the older drift which Professors Chamberlin and Salisbury have been most positive in assigning to the first Glacial epoch, which they have maintained was separated from the second epoch by a length of time sufficient for the streams to erode rock gorges in the Delaware and Lehigh Rivers from two hundred to three hundred feet in depth.[D] But Professor Williams has found that the rock gorges of the Lehigh, and even of its southern tributaries, had been worn down approximately to the present depth of that of the Delaware before this earliest period of glaciation, and that the gorges were filled with the earliest glacial débris.

[A] American Journal of Science, vol. xlvi, pp. 327, 330.

[B] American Journal of Science, vols, xlvi, pp. 114-121; xlvii, pp. 358-365; American Geologist, vols, x, pp. 339-362, especially pp. 361, 362; xiii, pp. 114, 278; Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. v, pp. 71-86, 87-100.

[C] Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. v, pp. 13-16, 281-296; American Journal of Science, vol. xlvii, pp. 33-36.

[D] See especially Chamberlin, in the American Journal of Science, vol. xlv, p. 192; Salisbury, in the American Geologist, vol. xi, p. 18.

A similar relation of the glacial deposits of the attenuated border to the preglacial erosion of the rock gorges of the Alleghany and upper Ohio Rivers has been brought to light by the joint investigations of Mr. Frank Leverett and myself in western Pennsylvania, in the vicinity of Warren, Pa., where, in an area which was affected by only the earliest glaciation, glacial deposits are found filling the rock channels of old tributaries to the Alleghany to a depth of from one hundred and seventy to two hundred and fifty feet, and carrying the preglacial erosion at that point very closely, if not quite, down to the present rock bottoms of all the streams. This removes from Professor Chamberlin a most important part of the evidence of a long interglacial period to which he had appealed; he having maintained[E] that “the higher glacial gravels antedated those of the moraine-forming epoch by the measure of the erosion of the channel through the old drift and the rock, whose mean depth here is about three hundred feet, of which perhaps two hundred and fifty feet may be said to be rock,” adding that the “excavation that intervened between the two epochs in other portions of the Alleghany, Monongahela, and upper Ohio valleys is closely comparable with this.”

[E] Bulletin 58 of the United States Geological Survey, p. 35; American Journal of Science, vol. xlv, p. 195.

These observations of Mr. Leverett and myself seem to demonstrate the position maintained in the volume ([page 218]), namely, that the inner precipitous rock gorges of the upper Ohio and its tributaries are mainly preglacial, rather than interglacial. The only way in which Professor Chamberlin can in any degree break the force of this discovery is by assuming that in preglacial times the present narrow rock gorges of the Alleghany and the Ohio were not continuous, but that (as indicated in the present volume on [page 206]) the drainage of various portions of that region was by northern outlets to the Lake Erie basin, leaving, on this supposition, the cols between two or three drainage areas to be lowered in glacial or interglacial time.

On the theory of continuity the erosion of these cols would have been rapidly effected by the reversed drainage consequent upon the arrival of the ice-front at the southern shore of the Lake Erie basin. During all the time elapsing thereafter, until the ice had reached its southern limit, the stream was also augmented by the annual partial melting of the advancing glacier which was constantly bringing into the valley the frozen precipitation of the far north. The distance is from thirty to seventy miles, so that a moderately slow advance of the ice at that stage would afford time for a great amount of erosion before sufficient northern gravel had reached the region to begin the filling of the gorge.[F]

[F] See an elaborate discussion of the subject in its new phases by Chamberlin and Leverett, in the American Journal of Science, vol. xlvii, pp. 247-283.

Mr. Leverett also presented an important paper before the Geological Society of America at its meeting at Madison, Wis., in August, 1893, adducing evidence which, he thinks, goes to prove that the post-glacial erosion in the earlier drift in the region of Rock River, Ill., was seven or eight times as much as that in the later drift farther north; while Mr. Oscar H. Hershey arrives at nearly the same conclusions from a study of the buried channels in northwestern Illinois.[G] But even if these estimates are approximately correct—which is by no means certain—they only prove the length of the Glacial period, and not necessarily its discontinuity.

[G] American Geologist, vol. xii, p. 314f. Other important evidence to a similar effect is given by Mr. Leverett, in an article on The Glacial Succession in Ohio, Journal of Geology, vol. i, pp. 129-146.

At the same time it should be said that these investigations in western Pennsylvania somewhat modify a portion of the discussion in the present volume concerning the effects of the Cincinnati ice-dam. It now appears that the full extent of the gravel terraces of glacial origin in the Alleghany River had not before been fully appreciated, since they are nearly continuous on the two-hundred-foot rock shelf, and are often as much as eighty feet thick. It seems probable, therefore, that the Alleghany and upper Ohio gorge was filled with glacial gravel to a depth of about two hundred and fifty or three hundred feet, as far down at least as Wheeling, W. Va. If this was the case, it would obviate the necessity of bringing in the Cincinnati ice-dam (as set forth in [pages 212-216]) to account directly for all the phenomena in that region, except as this obstruction at Cincinnati would greatly facilitate the silting up of the gorge. The simple accumulation of glacial gravel in the Alleghany gorge would of itself dam up the Monongahela at Pittsburg, so as to produce the results detailed by Professor White on [page 215].[H]

[H] For a full discussion of these topics, see paper by Professor B. C. Jillson, Transactions of the Academy of Science and Art of Pittsburg, December 8, 1893; G. F. Wright, American Journal of Science, vol. xlvii, pp. 161-187; especially pp. 177, 178; The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xlv, pp. 184-198.

Of European authorities who have recently favoured the theory of the continuity of the Quaternary Glacial period, as maintained in the volume, it is enough to mention the names of Prestwich,[I] Hughes,[J] Kendall,[K] Lamplugh,[L] and Wallace,[M] of England; Falsan,[N] of France; Holst,[O] of Sweden; Credner[P] and Diener,[Q] of Germany; and Nikitin[R] and Kropotkin,[S] of Russia.[T] Among leading authorities still favouring a succession of Glacial epochs are: Professor James Geikie,[U] of Scotland; Baron de Geer,[V] of Sweden; and Professor Felix Wahnschaffe,[W] of Germany.

[I] Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society for August, 1887.

[J] American Geologist, vol. viii, p. 241.

[K] Transactions of the Leeds Geological Association for February 10, 1893.

[L] Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, August, 1891.

[M] Fortnightly Review, November, 1893, p. 633; reprinted in The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xliv, p. 790.

[N] La Période glaciaire (Félix Alcan. Paris, 1889).

[O] American Geologist, vol. viii, p. 242.

[P] Ibid., p. 241.

[Q] Ibid., p. 242.

[R] Congrès International d’Archéologie, Moscow, 1892.

[S] Nineteenth Century, January, 1894, p. 151, note.

[T] The volume The Glacial Geology of Great Britain and Ireland, edited from the unpublished MSS. of the late Henry Carvill Lewis (London, Longmans, Green & Co., 1894), adds much important evidence in favour of the continuity of the Glacial epoch; see especially pp. 187, 460, 461, 466.

[U] Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh, vol. xxxvii, Part I, pp. 127-150.

[V] American Geologist, vol. viii, p. 246.

[W] Forschungen zur deutschen Landes und Volkskunde von Dr. A. Kirchhoff. Bd. vi, Heft i.

When the first edition was issued, two years ago, there seemed to be a general acceptance of all the facts detailed in it which directly connected man with the Glacial period both in America and in Europe; and, indeed, I had studiously limited myself to such facts as had been so long and so fully before the public that there would seem to be no necessity for going again into the details of evidence relating to them. It appears, however, that this confidence was ill-founded; for the publication of the book seems to have been the signal for a confident challenge, by Mr. W. H. Holmes, of all the American evidence, with intimations that the European also was very likely equally defective.[X] In particular Mr. Holmes denies the conclusiveness of the evidence of glacial man adduced by Dr. Abbott and others at Trenton, N. J.; Dr. Metz, at Madisonville, Ohio; Mr. Mills, at Newcomerstown, Ohio; and Miss Babbitt, at Little Falls, Minn.

[X] Journal of Geology, vol. i, pp. 15-37, 147-163; American Geologist, vol. xi, pp. 219-240.

The sum of Mr. Holmes’s effort amounts, however, to little more than the statement that, with a limited amount of time and labour, neither he nor his assistants had been able to find any implements in undisturbed gravel in any of these places; and the suggestion of various ways in which he thinks it possible that the observers mentioned may have been deceived as to the original position of the implements found. But, as had been amply and repeatedly published,[Y] Professor J. D. Whitney, Professor Lucien Carr, Professor N. S. Shaler, Professor F. W. Putnam, of Harvard University, besides Dr. C. C. Abbott, all expressly and with minute detail describe finding implements in the undisturbed gravel at Trenton, which no one denies to be of glacial origin. In the face of such testimony, which had been before the public and freely discussed for several years, it is an arduous undertaking for Mr. Holmes to claim that none of the implements have been found in place, because he and his assistants (whose opportunities for observation had scarcely been one twentieth part as great as those of the others) failed to find any. To see how carefully the original observations were made, one has but to read the reports to Professor Putnam which have from time to time appeared in the Proceedings of the Peabody Museum and of the Boston Society of Natural History,, and which are partially summed up in the thirty-second chapter of Dr. Abbott’s volume on Primitive Industry.

[Y] Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History, vol. xxi, January 19, 1881; Report of the Peabody Museum, vol. ii, pp. 44-47; chap, xxxii of Abbott’s Primitive Industry; American Geologist, vol. xi, pp. 180-184.

In the case of the discovery at Newcomerstown, Mr. Holmes is peculiarly unfortunate in his efforts to present the facts, since, in endeavouring to represent the conditions under which the implement was found by Mr. Mills, he has relied upon an imaginary drawing of his own, in which an utterly impossible state of things is pictured. The claim of Mr. Holmes in this case, as in the other, is that possibly the gravel in which the implements were found had been disturbed. In some cases, as in Little Falls and at Madison ville, he thinks the implements may have worked down to a depth of several feet by the overturning of trees or by the decay of the tap-root of trees. A sufficient answer to these suggestions is, that Mr. Holmes is able to find no instance in which the overturning of trees has disturbed the soil to a depth of more than three or four feet, while some of the implements in these places had been found buried from eight to sixteen feet. Even if, as Mr. Chamberlin suggests,[Z] fifty generations of trees have decayed on the spot since the retreat of the ice, it is difficult to see how that would help the matter, since the effect could not be cumulative, and fifty upturnings of three or four feet would not produce the results of one upturning of eight feet. Moreover, at Trenton, where the upturning of trees and the decaying of tap-roots would have been as likely as anywhere to bury implements, none of those of flint or jasper (which occur upon the surface by tens of thousands) are buried more than a foot in depth; while the argillite implements occur as low down as fifteen or twenty feet. This limitation of flint and jasper implements to the surface is conclusively shown not only by Dr. Abbott’s discoveries, but also by the extensive excavations at Trenton of Mr. Ernest Volk, whose collections formed so prominent a part of Professor Putnam’s Palæolithic exhibit at the Columbian Exposition at Chicago. In the village sites explored by Mr. Volk, argillite was the exclusive material of the implements found in the lower strata of gravel. Similar results are indicated by the excavations of Mr. H. C. Mercer at Point Pleasant, Pa., about twenty miles above Trenton, where, in the lower strata, the argillite specimens are sixty-one times more numerous than the jasper are.

[Z] American Geologist, vol. xi, p. 188.

To discredit the discoveries at Trenton and Newcomerstown, Mr. Holmes relies largely upon the theory that portions of gravel from the surface had slid down to the bottom of the terrace, carrying implements with them, and forming a talus, which, he thinks, Mr. Mills, Dr. Abbott, and the others have mistaken for undisturbed strata of gravel. In his drawings Mr. Holmes has even represented the gravel at Newcomerstown as caving down into a talus without disturbing the strata to any great extent, and at the same time he speaks slightingly of the promise which I had made to publish a photograph of the bank as it really was. In answer, it is sufficient to give, first, the drawing made at the time by Mr. Mills, to show the general situation of the gravel bank at Newcomerstown, in which the implement figured on [page 252] was found; and, secondly, an engraving from a photograph of the bank, taken by Mr. Mills after the discovery of the implement, but before the talus had obscured its face. The implement was found by Mr. Mills with its point projecting from a fresh exposure of the terrace, just after a mass, loosened by his own efforts, had fallen away. The gravel is of such consistency that every sign of stratification disappears when it falls down, and there could be no occasion for a mistake even by an ordinary observer, while Mr. Mills was a well-trained geologist and collector, making his notes upon the spot.[AA]

[AA] The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xliii, pp. 29-39.

Height of Terrace exposed, 25 feet. Palæolith was found 1434 feet from surface.

Terrace in Newcomerstown, showing where W. C. Mills found the Palæolithic implement.

I had thought at first that Mr. Holmes had made out a better case against the late Miss Babbitt’s discoveries at Little Falls (referred to on [page 254]), but in the American Geologist for May, 1894, page 363, Mr. Warren Upham, after going over the evidence, expresses it as still his conviction that Mr. Holmes’s criticism fails to shake the force of the original evidence, so that I do not see any reason for modifying any of the statements made in the body of the book concerning the implements supposed to have been found in glacial deposits. Yet if I had expected such an avalanche of criticism of the evidence as has been loosened, I should at the time have fortified my statements by fuller references, and should possibly have somewhat enlarged the discussion. But this seemed then the less necessary, from the fact that Mr. McGee had, in most emphatic manner, indorsed nearly every item of the evidence adduced by me, and much more, in an article which appeared in The Popular Science Monthly four years before the publication of the volume (November, 1888). In this article he had said:

“But it is in the aqueo-glacial gravels of the Delaware River at Trenton, which were laid down contemporaneously with the terminal moraine one hundred miles farther northward, and which have been so thoroughly studied by Abbott, that the most conclusive proof of the existence of glacial man is found" ([p. 23]). “Excluding all doubtful cases, there remains a fairly consistent body of testimony indicating the existence of a widely distributed human population upon the North. American continent during the later Ice epoch” ([p. 24]). “However the doubtful cases may be neglected, the testimony is cumulative, parts of it are unimpeachable, and the proof of the existence of glacial man seems conclusive” ([p. 25]).

In view of the grossly erroneous statements made by Mr. McGee concerning the Nampa image (described on [pages 298, 299]), it is necessary for me to speak somewhat more fully of this important discovery. The details concerning the evidence were drawn out by me at length in two communications to the Boston Society of Natural History (referred to on [page 297]), which fill more than thirty pages of closely printed matter, while two or three years before the appearance of the volume the facts had been widely published in the New York Independent, the Scientific American, The Nation, Scribner’s Magazine, and the Atlantic Monthly, and in Washington at a meeting of the Geological Society of America in 1890. In the second communication to the Boston Society of Natural History an account was given of a personal visit to the Snake River Valley, largely for the purpose of further investigation of the evidence brought to my notice by Mr. Charles Francis Adams, and of the conditions under which the figurine was found. Among the most important results of this investigation was the discovery of numerous shells under the lava deposits, which Mr. Dall, of the United States Geological Survey, identified for me as either post-Tertiary or late Pliocene; thus throwing the superficial lava deposits of the region into the Quaternary period, and removing from the evidence the antecedent improbability which would bear so heavily against it if we were compelled to suppose that the lava of the Snake River region was all of Tertiary or even of early Quaternary age. Furthermore, the evidence of the occurrence of a great débâcle in the Snake River Valley during the Glacial period, incident upon the bursting of the banks of Lake Bonneville, goes far to remove antecedent presumptions against the occurrence of human implements in such conditions as those existing at Nampa (see below, [pp. 233-237]).

Mr. McGee’s misunderstanding of the evidence on one point is so gross, that I must make special reference to it. He says[AB] that this image “is alleged to have been pounded out of volcanic tuff by a heavy drill, ... under a thick Tertiary lava bed.” The statement of facts on [page 298] bears no resemblance to this representation. It is there stated that there were but fifteen feet of lava, and that near the surface; that below this there was nothing but alternating beds of clay and quicksand, and that the lava is post-Tertiary. The sand-pump I should perhaps have described more fully in the book, as I had already done in the communication to the Boston Society of Natural History. It was a tube eight feet long, with a valve at the bottom three and a half inches in diameter on the inside. Through this it was the easiest thing in the world for the object, which is only one inch and a half long, to be brought up in the quicksand without injury.

[AB] Literary Northwest, vol. ii, p. 275.

The baseless assertions of Mr. McGee, involving the honesty of Messrs. Kurtz and Duffes, are even less fortunate and far more reprehensible. “It is a fact,” says Mr. McGee, “hat one of the best-known geologists of the world chanced to visit Nampa while the boring was in progress, and the figurine and the pretty fiction were laid before him. He recognized the figurine as a toy such as the neighbouring Indians give their children, and laughed at the story; whereupon the owner of the object enjoined secrecy, pleading: ‘Don’t give me away; I’ve fooled a lot of fellows already, and I’d like to fool some more.’”[AC] This well-known geologist, on being challenged by Professor Claypole[AD] to give “a full, exact, and certified statement of the conversation” above referred to, proved to be Major Powell, who responded with the following statement: “In the fall of 1889 the writer visited Boise City, in Idaho [twenty miles from Nampa]. While stopping at a hotel, some gentlemen called on him to show him a figurine which they said they had found in sinking an artesian well in the neighbourhood, at a depth, if I remember rightly, of more than three hundred feet.... When this story was told the writer, he simply jested with those who claimed to have found it. He had known the Indians that live in the neighbourhood, had seen their children play with just such figurines, and had no doubt that the little image had lately belonged to some Indian child, and said the same. While stopping at the hotel different persons spoke about it, and it was always passed off as a jest; and various comments were made about it by various people, some of them claiming that it had given them much sport, and that a good many tenderfeet had looked at it, and believed it to be genuine; and they seemed rather pleased that I had detected the hoax.”[AE]

[AC] American Anthropologist, vol. vi, p. 94: repeated by Mr. McGee in the Literary Northwest, vol. ii, p. 276.

[AD] The Popular Science Monthly, vol. xlii, p. 773.

[AE] Ibid., vol. xliii, pp. 322, 323.

Thus it appears that Major Powell has made no such statement, at least in public, as Mr. McGee attributes to him. It should be said, also, that Major Powell’s memory is very much at fault when he affirms that there is a close resemblance between this figurine and some of the children’s playthings among the Pocatello Indians. On the contrary, it would have been even more of a surprise to find it in the hands of these children than to find it among the prehistoric deposits on the Pacific coast.

To most well-informed people it is sufficient to know that no less high authorities than Mr. Charles Francis Adams and Mr. G. M. Gumming, General Manager for the Union Pacific line for that district, carefully investigated the evidence at the time of the discovery, and, knowing the parties, were entirely satisfied with its sufficiency. It was also subjected to careful examination by Professor F. W. Putnam, who discerned, in a deposit of an oxide of iron on various parts of the image, indubitable evidence that it was a relic which had lain for a long time in some such condition as was assigned to it in the bottom of the well—all of which is detailed in the papers referred to below, on [page 297].

Finally, the discovery, both in its character and conditions, is in so many respects analogous to those made under Table Mountain, near Sonora, Cal. (described on pages [294-297]), that the evidence of one locality adds cumulative force to that of the other. The strata underneath the lava in which these objects were found are all indirectly, but pretty certainly, connected with the Glacial period.[AF] No student of glacial archæology, therefore, can hereafter afford to disregard these facts from the Pacific coast.

[AF] See below, [p. 349].

Oberlin, Ohio, June 2, 1894.

[PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION.]

The wide interest manifested in my treatise upon The Ice Age in North America and its Bearing upon the Antiquity of Man (of which a third edition was issued a year ago), seemed to indicate the desirability of providing for the public a smaller volume discussing the broader question of man’s entire relation to the Glacial period in Europe as well as in America. When the demand for such a volume became evident, I set about preparing for the task by spending, first, a season in special study of the lava-beds of the Pacific coast, whose relations to the Glacial period and to man’s antiquity are of such great interest; and, secondly, a summer in Europe, to enable me to compare the facts bearing upon the subject on both continents.

Of course, the chapters of the present volume relating to America cover much of the same ground gone over in the previous treatise; but the matter has been entirely rewritten and very much condensed, so as to give due proportions to all parts of the subject. It will interest some to know that most of the new material in this volume was first wrought over in my second course of Lowell Institute Lectures, given in Boston during the month of March last.

I am under great obligations to Mr. Charles Francis Adams for his aid in prosecuting investigations upon the Pacific coast of America; and also to Dr. H. W. Crosskey, of Birmingham, England, and to Mr. G. W. Lamplugh, of Bridlington, as well as to Mr. C. E. De Rance and Mr. Clement Reid, of the British Geological Survey, besides many others in England who have facilitated my investigations; but pre-eminently to Prof. Percy F. Kendall, of Stockport, who consented to prepare for me the portion of [Chapter VI] which relates to the glacial phenomena of the British Isles. I have no doubt of the general correctness of the views maintained by him, and little doubt, also, that his clear and forcible presentation of the facts will bring about what is scarcely less than a revolution in the views generally prevalent relating to the subject of which he treats.

For the glacial facts relating to France and Switzerland I am indebted largely to M. Falsan’s valuable compendium, La Période Glaciaire.

It goes without saying, also, that I am under the deepest obligation to the works of Prof. James Geikie upon The Great Ice Age and upon Prehistoric Europe, and to the remarkable volume of the late Mr. James Croll upon Climate and Time, as well as to the recent comprehensive geological treatises of Sir Archibald Geikie and Prof. Prestwich. Finally, I would express my gratitude for the great courtesy of Prof. Fraipont, of Liége, in assisting me to an appreciation of the facts relating to the late remarkable discovery of two entire skeletons of Paleolithic man in the grotto of Spy.

Comparative completeness is also given to the volume by the appendix on the question of man’s existence during the Tertiary period, prepared by the competent hand of Prof. Henry W. Haynes, of Boston.

I trust this brief treatise will be useful not only in interesting the general public, but in giving a clear view of the present state of progress in one department of the inquiries concerning man’s antiquity. If the conclusions reached are not as positive as could be wished, still it is both desirable and important to see what degree of indefiniteness rests upon the subject, in order that rash speculations may be avoided and future investigations directed in profitable lines.

G. Frederick Wright.
Oberlin, Ohio, May 1, 1892.

CONTENTS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

MAPS.

[MAN AND THE GLACIAL PERIOD.]

[CHAPTER I.]

INTRODUCTORY.

That glaciers now exist in the Alps, in the Scandinavian range, in Iceland, in the Himalayas, in New Zealand, in Patagonia, and in the mountains of Washington, British Columbia, and southeastern Alaska, and that a vast ice-sheet envelops Greenland and the Antarctic Continent, are statements which can be verified by any one who will take the trouble to visit those regions. That, at a comparatively recent date, these glaciers extended far beyond their present limits, and that others existed upon the highlands of Scotland and British America, and at one time covered a large part of the British Isles, the whole of British America, and a considerable area in the northern part of the United States, are inferences drawn from phenomena which are open to every one’s observations. That man was in existence and occupied both Europe and America during this great expansion of the northern glaciers is proved by evidence which is now beyond dispute. It is the object of the present volume to make a concise presentation of the facts which have been rapidly accumulating during the past few years relating to the Glacial period and to its connection with human history.

Before speaking of the number and present extent of existing glaciers, it will be profitable, however, to devote a little attention to the definition of terms.

Fig. 1.—Zermatt Glacier (Agassiz).

A glacier is a mass of ice so situated and of such size as to have motion in itself. The conditions determining the character and rate of this motion will come up for statement and discussion later. It is sufficient here to say that ice has a capacity of movement similar to that possessed by such plastic substances as cold molasses, wax, tar, or cooling lava.

The limit of a glacier’s motion is determined by the forces which fix the point at which its final melting takes place. This will therefore depend upon both the warmth of the weather and upon the amount of ice. If the ice is abundant, it will move farther into the region of warm temperature than it will if it is limited in supply.

Upon ascending a glacier far enough, one reaches a comparatively motionless part corresponding to the lake out of which a river often flows. Technically this is called the névé.

Glacial ice is formed from snow where the annual fall is in excess of the melting power of the sun at that point. Through the influence of pressure, such as a boy applies to a snow-ball (but which in the névé-field arises from the weight of the accumulating mass), the lower strata of the névé are gradually transformed into ice. This process, is also assisted by the moisture which percolates through the snowy mass, and which is furnished both by the melting of the surface snow and by occasional rains.

The division between the névé and the glacier proper is not always easily determined. The beginnings of the glacial movement—that is, of the movement of the ice-stream flowing out of the névé-field—are somewhat like the beginnings of the movement of the water from a great lake into its outlet. The névé is the reservoir from which the glacier gets both its supply of ice and the impulse which gives it its first movement. There can not be a glacier without a névé-field, as there can not be a river without a drainage basin. But there may be a névé-field without a glacier—that is, a basin may be partially filled with snow which never melts completely away, while the equilibrium of forces is such that the ice barely reaches to the outlet from which the tongue-like projection (to which the name glacier would be applied) fails to emerge only because of the lack of material.

Fig. 2.—Illustrates the formation of veined structure by pressure at the junction of two branches.

A glacier is characterised by both veins and fissures. The veins give it a banded or stratified appearance, blue alternating with lighter-coloured portions of ice. As these bands are not arranged with any apparent uniformity in the glacier, their explanation has given rise to much discussion. Sometimes the veins are horizontal, sometimes vertical, and at other times at an angle with the line of motion. On close investigation, however, it is found that the veins are always at right angles to the line of greatest pressure. This leads to the conclusion that pressure is the cause of the banded structure. The blue strata in the ice are those from which the particles of air have been expelled by pressure; the lighter portions are those in which the particles are less thoroughly compacted. Snow is but pulverized ice, and differs in colour from the compact mass for the same reason that almost all rocks and minerals change their colour when ground into a powder.

Figs. 3, 4.—Illustrate the formation of marginal fissures and veins.

Fig. 5.—c, c, show fissures and seracs where the glacier moves down the steeper portion of its incline; s, s, show the vertical structure produced by pressure on the gentler slopes.

The fissures, which, when of large size, are called crevasses, are formed in those portions of a glacier where, from some cause, the ice is subjected to slight tension. This occurs especially where, through irregularities in the bottom, the slope of the descent is increased. The ice, then, instead of moving in a continuous stream at the top, cracks open along the line of tension, and wedge-shaped fissures are formed extending from the top down to a greater or less distance, according to the degree of tension. Usually, however, the ice remains continuous in the lower strata, and when the slope is diminished the pressure reunites the faces of the fissure, and the surface becomes again comparatively smooth. Where there are extensive areas of tension, the surface of the ice sometimes becomes exceedingly broken, presenting a tangled mass of towers, domes, and pinnacles of ice called seracs.

Fig. 6.—Section across Glacial Valley, showing old Lateral Moraines.

Like running water, moving ice is a powerful agent in transporting rocks and earthy débris of all grades of fineness; but, owing to the different consistencies of ice and water, there are great differences in the mode and result of transportation by them. While water can hold in suspension only the very finest material, ice can bear upon its surface rocks of the greatest magnitude, and can roll or shove along under it boulders and pebbles which would be Unaffected except by torrential currents of water. We find, therefore, a great amount of earthy material of all sizes upon the top of a glacier, which has reached it very much as débris reaches the bed of a river, namely, by falling down upon it from overhanging cliffs, or by land-slides of greater or less extent. Such material coming into a river would either disappear beneath its surface, or would form a line of débris along the banks; in both cases awaiting the gradual erosion and transportation which running water is able to effect. But, in case of a glacier, the material rests upon the surface of the ice, and at once begins to partake of its motion, while successive accessions of material keep up the supply at any one point, so as to form a train of boulders and other débris, extending below the point as far as the glacial motion continues.

Such a line of débris is called a moraine. When it forms along the edge of the ice, it is called a lateral moraine. It is easy to see that, where glaciers come out from two valleys which are tributary to a larger valley, their inner sides must coalesce below the separating promontory, and the two lateral moraines will become united and will move onward in the middle of the surface of the glacier. Such lines of débris are called medial moraines. These are characteristic of all extensive glaciers formed by the union of tributaries. There is no limit to the number of medial moraines, except in the number of tributaries.

A medial moraine, when of sufficient thickness, protects the ice underneath it from melting; so that the moraine will often appear to be much larger than it really is: what seems to be a ridge of earthy material being in reality a long ridge of ice, thinly covered with earthy débris, sliding down the slanting sides as the ice slowly wastes away Large blocks of stone in the same manner protect the ice from melting underneath, and are found standing on pedestals of ice, often several feet in height. An interesting feature of these blocks is that, when the pedestal fails, the block uniformly falls towards the sun, since that is the side on which the melting has proceeded most rapidly.

If the meteorological forces are so balanced that the foot of a glacier remains at the same place for any great length of time, there must be a great accumulation of earthy débris at the stationary point, since the motion of the ice is constantly bearing its lines of lateral and medial moraine downwards to be deposited, year by year, at the melting line along the front.

Such accumulations are called terminal moraines, and the process of their formation may be seen at the foot of almost any large glacier. The pile of material thus confusedly heaped up in front of some of the larger glaciers of the world is enormous.

The melting away of the lower part of a glacier gives rise also to several other characteristic phenomena. Where the foot of a glacier chances to be on comparatively level land, the terminal moraine often covers a great extent of ice, and protects it from melting for an indefinite period of time. When the ice finally melts away and removes the support from the overlying morainic débris, this settles down in a very irregular manner, leaving enclosed depressions to which there is no natural outlet. These depressions, from their resemblance to a familiar domestic utensil, are technically known as kettle-holes. The terminal moraines of ancient glaciers may often be traced by the relative abundance of these kettle-holes.

The streams of water arising both from the rainfall and from the melting of the ice also produce a peculiar effect about the foot of an extensive glacier. Sometimes these streams cut long, open channels near the end of the glacier, and sweep into it vast quantities of morainic material, which is pushed along by the torrential current, and, after being abraded, rolled, and sorted, is deposited in a delta about its mouth, or left stranded in long lines between the ice-walls which have determined its course. At other times the stream has disappeared far back in the glacier, and plunged into a crevasse (technically called a moulin), whence it flows onwards as a subglacial stream. But in this case the deposits might closely resemble those of the previous description. In both cases, when the ice has finally melted away, peculiar ridge-like deposits of sorted material remain, to mark the temporary line of drainage. These exist abundantly in most regions which have been covered with glacial ice, and are referred to in Scotland as kames, in Ireland as eskers, and in Sweden as osars. In this volume we shall call them kames, and the deltas spread out in front of them will be referred to as kame-plains.

With this preliminary description of glacial phenomena, we will proceed to give, first, a brief enumeration and description of the ice-fields which are still existing in the world; second, the evidences of the former existence of far more extensive ice-fields; and, third, the relation of the Glacial period to some of the vicissitudes which have attended the life of man in the world.

The geological period of which we shall treat is variously designated by different writers. By some it is simply called the “post-Tertiary,” or “Quaternary”; by others the term “post-Pliocene” is used, to indicate more sharply its distinction from the latter portion of the Tertiary period; by others this nicety of distinction is expressed by the term “Pleistocene.” But, since the whole epoch was peculiarly characterised by the presence of glaciers, which have not even yet wholly disappeared, we may properly refer to it altogether under the descriptive name of “Glacial” period.

[CHAPTER II.]

EXISTING GLACIERS.

In Europe.—Our specific account of existing glaciers naturally begins with those of the Alps, where Hugi, Charpentier, Agassiz, Forbes, and Guyot, before the middle of this century, first brought clearly to light the reality and nature of glacial motion.

According to Professor Heim, of Zürich, the total area covered by the glaciers and ice-fields of the Alps is upwards of three thousand square kilometres (about eleven hundred square miles). The Swiss Alps alone contain nearly two-thirds of this area. Professor Heim enumerates 1,155 distinct glaciers in the region. Of these, 144 are in France, 78 in Italy, 471 in Switzerland, and 462 in Austria.

Desor describes fourteen principal glacial districts in the Alps, the westernmost of which is that of Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiny, and the easternmost that in the vicinity of the Gross Glockner, in Carinthia. The most important of the Alpine systems are those which are grouped around Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, and the Finsteraarhorn, the two former peaks being upwards of fifteen thousand feet in height, and the latter upwards of fourteen thousand. The area covered by glaciers and snow-fields in the Bernese Oberland, of which Finsteraarhorn is the culminating point, is about three hundred and fifty square kilometres (a hundred square miles), and contains the Aletsch Glacier, which is the longest in Europe, extending twenty-one kilometres (about fourteen miles) from the névé-field to its foot. The Mer de Glace, which descends from Mont Blanc to the valley of Chamounix, has a length of about eight miles below the névé-field. In all, there are estimated to be twenty-four glaciers in the Alps which are upwards of four miles long, and six which are upwards of eight miles in length. The principal of these are the Mer de Glace, of Chamounix, on Mont Blanc; the Gorner Glacier, near Zermatt, on Monte Rosa; the lower glacier of the Aar, in the Bernese Oberland; and the Aletsch Glacier and Glacier of the Rhône, in Vallais; and the Pasterzen, in Carinthia.

Fig. 7.—Mount Blanc Glacier Region: m, Mer de Glace; g, Du Géant; l, Leschaux; t, Taléfre; B, Bionassay; b, Bosson.

These glaciers adjust themselves to the width of the valleys down which they flow, in some places being a mile or more in width, and at others contracting into much narrower compass. The greatest depth which Agassiz was able directly to measure in the Aar Glacier was two hundred and sixty metres (five hundred and twenty-eight feet), but at another point the depth was estimated by him to be four hundred and sixty metres (or fifteen hundred and eighty-four feet).

The glaciers of the Alps are mostly confined to the northern side and to the higher portions of the mountain-chain, none of them descending below the level of four thousand feet, and all of them varying slightly in extent, from year to year, according as there are changes in the temperature and in the amount of snow-fall.

The Pyrenees, also, still maintain a glacial system, but it is of insignificant importance. This is partly because the altitude is much less than that of the Alps, the culminating point being scarcely more than eleven thousand feet in height. Doubtless, also, it is partly due to the narrowness of the range, which does not provide gathering-places for the snow sufficiently extensive to produce large glaciers. The snow-fall also is less upon the Pyrenees than upon the Alps. As a consequence of all these conditions, the glaciers of the Pyrenees are scarcely more than stationary névé-fields lingering upon the north side of the range. The largest of these is near Bagnères de Luchon, and sends down a short, river-like glacier.

In Scandinavia the height of the mountains is also much less than that of the Alps, but the moister climate and the more northern latitude favours the growth of glaciers at a much lower level North of the sixty-second degree of latitude, the plateaus over five thousand feet above the sea pretty generally are gathering-places for glaciers. From the Justedal a snow-field, covering five hundred and eighty square miles, in latitude 62°, twenty-four glaciers push outwards towards the German Sea, the largest of which is five miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide. The Fondalen snow-field, between latitudes 66° and 67°, covers an area about equal to that of the Justedal; but, on account of its more northern position, its glaciers descend through the valleys quite to the ocean-level. The Folgofon snow-field is still farther south, but, though occupying an area of only one hundred square miles, it sends down as many as three glaciers to the sea-level. The total area of the Scandinavian snow-fields is about five thousand square miles.

In Sweden Dr. Svenonius estimates that there are, between latitudes 67° and 6812°, twenty distinct groups of glaciers, covering an area of four hundred square kilometres (one hundred and forty-four square miles), and he numbers upwards of one hundred distinct glaciers of small size.

As is to be expected, the large islands in the Polar Sea north of Europe and Asia are, to a great extent, covered with névé-fields, and numerous glaciers push out from them to the sea in all directions, discharging their surplus ice as bergs, which float away and cumber the waters with their presence in many distant places.

Fig. 8.—The Svartisen Glacier on the west coast of Norway, just within the Arctic circle, at the head of a fiord ten miles from the ocean. The foot of the Glacier is one mile wide, and a quarter of a mile back from the water. Terminal moraine in front. (Photographed by Dr. L. C. Warner.)

The island of Spitzbergen, in latitude 76° to 81°, is favourably situated for the production of glaciers, by reason both of its high northern latitude, and of its relation to the Gulf Stream, which conveys around to it an excessive amount of moisture, thus ensuring an exceptionally large snow-fall over the island. The mountainous character of the island also favours the concentration of the ice-movement into glaciers of vast size and power. Still, even here, much of the land is free from snow and ice in summer. But upon the northern portion of the island there is an extensive table-land, upwards of two thousand feet above the sea, over which the ice-field is continuous. Four great glaciers here descend to tide-water in Magdalena Bay. The largest of these presents at the front a wall of ice seven thousand feet across and three hundred feet high; but, as the depth of the water is not great, few icebergs of large size break off and float away from it.

Nova Zembla, though not in quite so high latitude, has a lower mean temperature upon the coasts than Spitzbergen. Owing to the absence of high lands and mountains, however, it is not covered with perpetual snow, much less with glacial ice, but its level portions are “carpeted with grasses and flowers,” and sustain extensive forests of stunted trees.

Franz-Josef Land, to the north of Nova Zembla, both contains high mountains and supports glaciers of great size. Mr. Payer conducted a sledge party into this land in 1874, and reported that a precipitous wall of glacial ice, “of more than a hundred feet in height, formed the usual edge of the coast.” But the motion of the ice is very slow, and the ice coarse-grained in structure, and it bears a small amount only of morainic material. So low is here the line of perpetual snow, that the smaller islands “are covered with caps of ice, so that a cross-section would exhibit a regular flat segment of ice.” It is interesting to note, also, that “many ice-streams, descending from the high névé plateau, spread themselves out over the mountain-slopes,” and are not, as in the Alps, confined to definite valleys.

Iceland seems to have been properly named, since a single one of the snow-fields—that of Vatnajoküll, with an extreme elevation of only six thousand feet—is estimated by Helland to cover one hundred and fifty Norwegian square miles (about seven thousand English square miles), while five other ice-fields (the Langjoküll, the Hofsjoküll, the Myrdalsjoküll, the Drangajoküll, and the Glamujoküll) have a combined area of ninety-two Norwegian or about four thousand five hundred English square miles. The glaciers are supposed by Whitney to have been rapidly advancing for some time past.

In Asia.—Notwithstanding its lofty mountains and its great extent of territory lying in high latitudes, glaciers are for two reasons relatively infrequent: 1. The land in the more northern latitudes is low. 2. The dryness of the atmosphere in the interior of the continent is such that it unduly limits the snow-fall. Long before they reach the central plateau of Asia, the currents of air which sweep over the continent from the Indian Ocean have parted with their burdens of moisture, having left them in a snowy mantle upon the southern flanks of the Himalayas. As a result, we have the extensive deserts of the interior, where, on account of the clear atmosphere, there is not snow enough to resist continuously the intense activity of the unobstructed rays of the sun.

In spite of their high latitude and considerable elevation above the sea-level, glaciers are absent from the Ural Mountains, for the range is too narrow to afford névé-fields of sufficient size to produce glaciers of large extent.

The Caucasus Mountains present more favourable conditions, and for a distance of one hundred and twenty miles near their central portion have an average height of 12,000 feet, with individual peaks rising to a height of 16,000 feet or more; but, owing to their low latitude, the line of perpetual snow scarcely reaches down to the 11,000-foot level. So great are the snow-fields, however, above this height that many glaciers push their way down through the narrow mountain-gorges as far as the 6,000-foot level.

The Himalaya Mountains present many favourable conditions for the development of glaciers of large size. The range is of great extent and height, thus affording ample gathering-places for the snows, while the relation of the mountains to the moisture-laden winds from the Indian Ocean is such that they enjoy the first harvest of the clouds where the interior of Asia gets only the gleanings. As is to be expected, therefore, all the great rivers which course through the plains of Hindustan have their rise in large glaciers far up towards the summits of the northern mountains. The Indus and the Ganges are both glacial streams in their origin, as are their larger tributary branches—the Basha, the Shigar, and the Sutlej. Many of the glaciers in the higher levels of the Himalaya Mountains where these streams rise have a length of from twenty-five to forty miles, and some of them are as much as a mile and a half in width and extend for a long distance, with an inclination as small as one degree and a half or one hundred and thirty-eight feet to a mile.

In the Mustagh range of the western Himalayas there are two adjoining glaciers whose united length is sixty-five miles, and another not far away which is twenty-one miles long and from one to two miles wide in its upper portion. Its lower portion terminates at an altitude of 16,000 feet above tide, where it is three miles wide and two hundred and fifty feet thick.

Oceanica.—-Passing eastward to the islands of the Pacific Ocean, New Zealand is the only one capable of supporting glaciers. Their existence on this island seems the more remarkable because of its low latitude (42° to 45°); but a grand range of mountains rises abruptly from the water on the western coast of the southern island, culminating in Mount Cook, 13,000 feet above the sea, and extending for a distance of about one hundred miles. The extent and height of this chain, coupled with the moisture of the winds, which sweep without obstruction over so many leagues of the tropical Pacific, are specially favourable to the production of ice-fields of great extent. Consequently we find glaciers in abundance, some of which are not inferior in extent to the larger ones of the Alps. The Tasman Glacier, described by Haas, is ten miles long and nearly two miles broad at its termination, “the lower portion for a distance of three miles being covered with morainic detritus.” The Mueller Glacier is about seven miles long and one mile broad in its lower portion.

South America.—In America, existing glaciers are chiefly confined to three principal centres, namely, to the Andes, south of the equator; to the Cordilleras, north of central California; and to Greenland.

In South America, however, the high mountains of Ecuador sustain a few glaciers above the twelve-thousand-foot level. The largest of these are upon the eastern slope of the mountains, giving rise to some of the branches of the Amazon—indeed, on the flanks of Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and Illinissa there are some glaciers in close proximity to the equator which are fairly comparable in size to those of the Alps.

In Chili, at about latitude 35°, glaciers begin to appear at lower levels, descending beyond the six-thousand-foot line, while south of this both the increasing moisture of the winds and the decreasing average temperature favour the increase of ice-fields and glaciers. Consequently, as Darwin long ago observed, the line of perpetual snow here descends to an increasingly lower level, and glaciers extend down farther and farther towards the sea, until, in Tierra del Fuego, at about latitude 45°, they begin to discharge their frozen contents directly into the tidal inlets. Darwin’s party surveyed a glacier entering the Gulf of Penas in latitude 46° 50’, which was fifteen miles long, and, in one part, seven broad. At Eyre’s Sound, also, in about latitude 48°, they found immense glaciers coming clown to the sea and discharging icebergs of great size, one of which, as they encountered it floating outwards, was estimated to be “at least one hundred and sixty-eight feet in total height.”

In Tierra del Fuego, where the mountains are only from three thousand to four thousand feet in height and in latitude less than 55°, Darwin reports that "every valley is filled with streams of ice descending to the sea-coast," and that the inlets penetrated by his party presented miniature likenesses of the polar sea.

Fig. 9.—Floating berg, showing the proportions above and under the water. About seven feet under water to one above.

Antarctic Continent.—Of the so-called Antarctic Continent little is known; but icebergs of great size are frequently encountered up to 58° south latitude, in the direction of Cape Horn, and as far as latitude 33° in the direction of Cape of Good Hope. Nearly all that is known about this continent was discovered by Sir J. C. Ross during the period extending from 1839 to 1843, when, between the parallels of 70° and 78° south latitude, he encountered in his explorations a precipitous mountain coast, rising from seven thousand to ten thousand feet above tide. Through the valleys intervening between the mountain-ranges huge glaciers descended, and “projected in many places several miles into the sea and terminated in lofty, perpendicular cliffs. In a few places the rocks broke through their icy covering, by which alone we could be assured that land formed the nucleus of this, to appearance, enormous iceberg.”[AG]

[AG] Quoted by Whitney in Climatic Changes, p. 314.

Again, speaking of the region in the vicinity of the lofty volcanoes Terror and Erebus, between ten thousand and twelve thousand feet high, the same navigator says:

“We perceived a low, white line extending from its extreme eastern point, as far as the eye could discern, to the eastward. It presented an extraordinary appearance, gradually increasing in height as we got nearer to it, and proving at length to be a perpendicular cliff of ice, between one hundred and fifty and two hundred feet above the level of the sea, perfectly flat and level at the top, and without any fissures or promontories on its even, seaward face. What was beyond it we could not imagine; for, being much higher than our mast-head, we could not see anything except the summit of a lofty range of mountains extending to the southward as far as the seventy-ninth degree of latitude. These mountains, being the southernmost land hitherto discovered, I felt great satisfaction in naming after Sir Edward Parry.... Whether Parry Mountains again take an easterly trending and form the base to which this extraordinary mass of ice is attached, must be left for future navigators to determine. If there be land to the southward it must be very remote, or of much less elevation than any other part of the coast we have seen, or it would have appeared above the barrier.”

This ice-cliff or barrier was followed by Captain Ross as far as 198° west longitude, and found to preserve very much the same character during the whole of that distance. On the lithographic view of this great ice-sheet given in Ross’s work it is described as “part of the South Polar Barrier, one hundred and eighty feet above the sea-level, one thousand feet thick, and four hundred and fifty miles in length.”

A similar vertical wall of ice was seen by D’Urville, off the coast of Adelie Land. He thus describes it: “Its appearance was astonishing. We perceived a cliff having a uniform elevation of from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet, forming a long line extending off to the west.... Thus for more than twelve hours we had followed this wall of ice, and found its sides everywhere perfectly vertical and its summit horizontal. Not the smallest irregularity, not the most inconsiderable elevation, broke its uniformity for the twenty leagues of distance which we followed it during the day, although we passed it occasionally at a distance of only two or three miles, so that we could make out with ease its smallest irregularities. Some large pieces of ice were lying along the side of this frozen coast; but, on the whole, there was open sea in the offing.” [AH]

[AH] Whitney’s Climatic Changes, pp. 315, 316.

Fig. 10.—Iceberg in the Antarctic Ocean.

North America.—In North America living glaciers begin to appear in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, in the vicinity of the Yosemite Park, in central California. Here the conditions necessary for the production of glaciers are favourable, namely, a high altitude, snow-fields of considerable extent, and unobstructed exposure to the moisture-laden currents of air from the Pacific Ocean. Sixteen glaciers of small size have been noted among the summits to the east of the Yosemite; but none of them descend much below the eleven-thousand-foot line, and none of them are over a mile in length. Indeed, they are so small, and their motion is so slight, that it is a question whether or not they are to be classed with true glaciers.

Owing to the comparatively low elevation of the Sierra Nevada north of Tuolumne County, California, no other living glaciers are found until reaching Mount Shasta, in the extreme northern part of the State. This is a volcanic peak, rising fourteen thousand five hundred feet above the sea, and having no peaks within forty miles of it as high as ten thousand feet; yet so abundant is the snow-fall that as many as five glaciers are found upon its northern side, some of them being as much as three miles long and extending as low down as the eight-thousand-foot level. Upon the southern side glaciers are so completely absent that Professor Whitney ascended the mountain and remained in perfect ignorance of its glacial system. In 1870 Mr. Clarence King first discovered and described them on the northern side.

North of California glaciers characterise the Cascade Range in increasing numbers all the way to the Alaskan Peninsula. They are to be found upon Diamond Peak, the Three Sisters, Mount Jefferson, and Mount Hood, in Oregon, and appear in still larger proportions upon the flanks of Mount Rainier (or Tacoma) and Mount Baker, in the State of Washington. The glacier at the head of the White River Valley is upon the north side of Rainier, and is the largest one upon that mountain, reaching down to within five thousand feet of the sea-level, and being ten miles or more in length. All the streams which descend the valleys upon this mountain are charged with the milky-coloured water which betrays their glacial origin.

Fig. 11.—Map of Southeastern Alaska. The arrow-points mark glaciers.

In British Columbia, Glacier Station, upon the Canadian Pacific Railroad, in the Selkirk Mountains, is within half a mile of the handsome Illicilliwaet Glacier, while others of larger size are found at no great distance. The interior farther north is unexplored to so great an extent that little can be definitely said concerning its glacial phenomena. The coast of British Columbia is penetrated by numerous fiords, each of which receives the drainage of a decaying glacier; but none are in sight of the tourist-steamers which thread their way through the intricate network of channels characterising this coast, until the Alaskan boundary is crossed and the mouth of the Stickeen River is passed.

A few miles up from the mouth of the Stickeen, however, glaciers of large size come down to the vicinity of the river, both from the north and from the south, and the attention of tourists is always attracted by the abundant glacial sediment borne into the tide-water by the river itself and discolouring the surface for a long distance beyond the outlet. Northward from this point the tourist is rarely out of sight of ice-fields. The Auk and Patterson Glaciers are the first to come into view, but they do not descend to the water-level. On nearing Holcomb Bay, however, small icebergs begin to appear, heralding the first of the glaciers which descend beyond the water’s edge. Taku Inlet, a little farther north, presents glaciers of great size coming down to the sea-level, while the whole length of Lynn Canal, from Juneau to Chilkat, a distance of eighty miles, is dotted on both sides by conspicuous glaciers and ice-fields.

The Davidson Glacier, near the head of the canal, is one of the most interesting for purposes of study. It comes down from an unknown distance in the western interior, bearing two marked medial moraines upon its surface. On nearing tide-level, the valley through which it flows is about three-quarters of a mile in width; but, after emerging from the confinement of the valley, the ice spreads out over a fan-shaped area until the width of its front is nearly three miles. The supply of ice not being sufficient to push the front of the glacier into deep water, equilibrium between the forces of heat and cold is established near the water’s edge. Here, as from year to year the ice melts and deposits its burdens of earthy débris, it has piled up a terminal moraine which rises from two hundred to three hundred feet in height, and is now covered with evergreen trees of considerable size. From Chilkat, at the head of Lynn Canal, to the sources of the Yukon River, the distance is only thirty-five miles, but the intervening mountain-chain is several thousand feet in height and bears numerous glaciers upon its seaward side.

About forty miles west of Lynn Canal, and separated from it by a range of mountains of moderate height, is Glacier Bay, at the head of one of whose inlets is the Muir Glacier, which forms the chief attraction for the great number of tourists that now visit the coast of southeastern Alaska during the summer season. This glacier meets tide-water in latitude 58° 50’, and longitude 136° 40’ west of Greenwich. It received its name from Mr. John Muir, who, in company with Rev. Mr. Young, made a tour of the bay and discovered the glacier in 1879. It was soon found that the bay could be safely navigated by vessels of large size, and from that time on tourists in increasing number have been attracted to the region. Commodious steamers now regularly run close up to the ice-front, and lie-to for several hours, so that the passengers may witness the “calving” of icebergs, and may climb upon the sides of the icy stream and look into its deep crevasses and out upon its corrugated and broken surface.

Fig. 12.—Map of Glacier Bay. Alaska, and its surroundings. Arrow-points indicate glaciated area.

The first persons who found it in their way to pay more than a tourist’s visit to this interesting object were Rev. J. L. Patton, Mr. Prentiss Baldwin, and myself, who spent the entire month of August, 1886, encamped at the foot of the glacier, conducting such observations upon it as weather and equipment permitted. From that time till the summer of 1890 no one else stopped off from the tourist steamers to bestow any special study upon it. But during this latter season Mr. Muir returned to the scene of his discovered wonder, and spent some weeks in exploring the interior of the great ice-field. During the same season, also, Professors H. F. Reid and H. Cushing, with a well-equipped party of young men, spent two months or more in the same field, conducting observations and experiments, of various kinds, relating to the extent, the motion, and the general behaviour of the vast mass of moving ice.

Fig. 13.—Shows central part of the front of Muir Glacier one half mile distant. Near the lower left hand corner the ice is seen one mile distant resting for about one half mile on gravel which it had overrun. The ice is now retreating in the channel. (From photograph.)

The main body of the Muir Glacier occupies a vast amphitheatre, with diameters ranging from thirty to forty miles, and covers an area of about one thousand square miles. From one of the low mountains near its mouth I could count twenty-six tributary glaciers which came together and became confluent in the main stream of ice. Nine medial moraines marked the continued course of as many main branches, which becoming united formed the grand trunk of the glacier. Numerous rocky eminences also projected above the surface of the ice, like islands in the sea, corresponding to what are called “nunataks” in Greenland. The force of the ice against the upper side of these rocky prominences is such as to push it in great masses above the surrounding level, after the analogy of waves which dash themselves into foam against similar obstructions. In front of the nunataks there is uniformly a depression, like the eddies which appear in the current below obstacles in running water.

Over some portions of the surface of the glacier there is a miniature river system, consisting of a main stream, with numerous tributaries, but all flowing in channels of deep blue ice. Before reaching the front of the glacier, however, each one of these plunges down into a crevasse, or moulin, to swell the larger current, which may be heard rushing along in an impetuous course hundreds of feet beneath, and far out of sight. The portion of the glacier in which there is the most rapid motion is characterised by innumerable crags and domes and pinnacles of ice, projecting above the general level, whose bases are separated by fissures, extending in many cases more than a hundred feet below the general level. These irregularities result from the combined effect of the differential motion (as illustrated in the diagram on [page 4]), and the influence of sunshine and warm air in irregularly melting the unprotected masses. The description given in our introductory chapter of medial moraines and ice-pillars is amply illustrated everywhere upon the surface of the Muir Glacier. I measured one block of stone which was twenty feet square and about the same height, standing on a pedestal of ice three or four feet high.

The mountains forming the periphery of this amphitheatre rise to a height of several thousand feet; Mount Fairweather, upon the northwest, from whose flanks probably a portion of the ice comes, being, in fact, more than fifteen thousand feet high. The mouth of the amphitheatre is three miles wide, in a line extending from shoulder to shoulder of the low mountains which guard it. The actual water-front where the ice meets tide-water is one mile and a half.[AI] Here the depth of the inlet is so great that the front of the ice breaks off in icebergs of large size, which float away to be dissolved at their leisure. At the water’s edge the ice presents a perpendicular front of from two hundred and fifty to four hundred feet in height, and the depth of the water in the middle of the inlet immediately in front of the ice is upwards of seven hundred feet; thus giving a total height to the precipitous front of a thousand feet.

[AI] These are the measurements of Professor Reid. In my former volume I have given the dimensions as somewhat smaller.

The formation of icebergs can here be studied to admirable advantage. During the month in which we encamped in the vicinity the process was going on continuously. There was scarcely an interval of fifteen minutes during the whole time in which the air was not rent with the significant boom connected with the “calving” of a berg. Sometimes this was occasioned by the separation of a comparatively small mass of ice from near the top of the precipitous wall, which would fall into the water below with a loud splash. At other times I have seen a column of ice from top to bottom of the precipice split off and fall over into the water, giving rise to great waves, which would lash the shore with foam two miles below.

This manner of the production of icebergs differs from that which has been ordinarily represented in the text-books, but it conforms to the law of glacial motion, which we will describe a little later, namely, that the upper strata of ice move faster than the lower. Hence the tendency is constantly to push the upper strata forwards, so as to produce a perpendicular or even projecting front, after the analogy of the formation of breakers on the shelving shore of a large body of water.

Evidently, however, these masses of ice which break off from above the water do not reach the whole distance to the bottom of the glacier below the water; so that a projecting foot of ice remains extending to an indefinite distance underneath the surface. But at occasional intervals, as the superincumbent masses of ice above the surface fall off and relieve the strata below of their weight, these submerged masses suddenly rise, often shooting up considerably higher than they ultimately remain when coming to rest. The bergs formed by this latter process often bear much earthy material upon them, which is carried away with the floating ice, to be deposited finally wherever the melting chances to take place.

Numerous opportunities are furnished about the front and foot of this vast glacier to observe the manner of the formation of kames, kettle-holes, and various other irregular forms into which glacial débris is accustomed to accumulate. Over portions of the decaying foot of the glacier, which was deeply covered with morainic débris, the supporting ice is being gradually removed through the influence of subglacial streams or of abandoned tunnels, which permit the air to exert its melting power underneath. In some places where old moulins had existed, the supporting ice is melting away, so that the superincumbent mass of sand, gravel, and boulders is slowly sliding into a common centre, like grain in a hopper. This must produce a conical hill, to remain, after the ice has all melted away, a mute witness of the impressive and complicated forces which have been so long in operation for its production.

In other places I have witnessed the formation of a long ridge of gravel by the gradual falling in of the roof of a tunnel which had been occupied by a subglacial stream, and over which there was deposited a great amount of morainic material. As the roof gave way, this was constantly falling to the bottom, where, being exempt from further erosive agencies, it must remain as a gravel ridge or kame.

In other places, still, there were vast masses of ice covering many acres, and buried beneath a great depth of morainic material which had been swept down upon it while joined to the main glacier. In the retreat of the ice, however, these masses had become isolated, and the sand, gravel, and boulders were sliding down the wasting sides and forming long ridges of débris along the bottom, which, upon the final melting of the ice, will be left as a complicated network of ridges and knolls of gravel, enclosing an equally complicated nest of kettle-holes.

Beyond Cross Sound the Pacific coast is bounded for several hundred miles by the magnificent semicircle of mountains known as the St. Elias Alps, with Mount Crillon at the south, having an elevation of nearly sixteen thousand feet, and St. Elias in the centre, rising to a greater height. Everywhere along this coast, as far as the Alaskan Peninsula, vast glaciers come down from the mountain-sides, and in many cases their precipitous fronts form the shore-line for many miles at a time. Icy Bay, just to the south of Mount St, Elias, is fitly named, on account of the extent of the glaciers emptying into it and the number of icebergs cumbering its waters.

In the summer of 1890 a party, under the lead of Mr. I. C. Russell, of the United States Geological Survey, made an unsuccessful attempt to scale the heights of Mount St. Elias; but the information brought back by them concerning the glaciers of the region amply repaid them for their toil and expense, and consoled them for the failure of their immediate object.

Fig. 14.—By the courtesy of the National Geographical Society.

Leaving Yakutat Bay, and following the route indicated upon the accompanying map, they travelled on glacial ice almost the entire distance to the foot of Mount St. Elias. The numerous glaciers coming down from the summit of the mountain-ridge become confluent nearer the shore, and spread out over an area of about a thousand square miles. This is fitly named the Malaspina Glacier, after the Spanish explorer who discovered it in 1792.

It is not necessary to add further particulars concerning the results of this expedition, since they are so similar to those already detailed in connection with the Muir Glacier. A feature, however, of special interest, pertains to the glacial lakes which are held in place by the glacial ice at an elevation of thousands of feet above the sea. One of considerable size is indicated upon the map just south of what was called Blossom Island, which, however, is not an island, but simply a nunatak, the ice here surrounding a considerable area of fertile land, which is covered with dense forests and beautified by a brilliant assemblage of flowering plants. In other places considerable vegetation was found upon the surface of moraines, which were probably still in motion with the underlying ice.

Greenland.—The continental proportions of Greenland, and the extent to which its area is covered by glacial ice, make it by far the most important accessible field for glacial observations. The total area of Greenland can not be less than five hundred thousand square miles—equal in extent to the portion of the United States east of the Mississippi and north of the Ohio. It is now pretty evident that the whole of this area, except a narrow border about the southern end, is covered by one continuous sheet of moving ice, pressing outward on every side towards the open water of the surrounding seas.

For a long time it was the belief of many that a large region in the interior of Greenland was free from ice, and was perhaps inhabited. It was in part to solve this problem that Baron Nordenskiöld set out upon his expedition of 1883. Ascending the ice-sheet from Disco Bay, in latitude 69°, he proceeded eastward for eighteen days across a continuous ice-field. Rivers were flowing in channels upon the surface like those cut on land in horizontal strata of shale or sandstone, only that the pure deep blue of the ice-walls was, by comparison, infinitely more beautiful. These rivers were not, however, perfectly continuous. After flowing for a distance in channels on the surface, they, one and all, plunged with deafening roar into some yawning crevasse, to find their way to the sea through subglacial channels. Numerous lakes with shores of ice were also encountered.

Fig. 15.—Map of Greenland. The arrow-points mark the margin of the ice-field.

“On bending down the ear to the ice,” says this explorer, “we could hear on every side a peculiar subterranean hum, proceeding from rivers flowing within the ice; and occasionally a loud, single report, like that of a cannon, gave notice of the formation of a new glacier-cleft.... In the afternoon we saw at some distance from us a well-defined pillar of mist, which, when we approached it, appeared to rise from a bottomless abyss, into which a mighty glacier-river fell. The vast, roaring water-mass had bored for itself a vertical hole, probably down to the rock, certainly more than two thousand feet beneath, on which the glacier rested.”[AJ]

[AJ] Geological Magazine, vol. ix, pp. 393, 399.

At the end of the eighteen days Nordenskiöld found himself about a hundred and fifty miles from his starting-point, and about five thousand feet above the sea. Here the party rested, and sent two Eskimos forward on skidor—a kind of long wooden skate, with which they could move rapidly over the ice, notwithstanding the numerous small, circular holes which everywhere pitted the surface. These Eskimos were gone fifty-seven hours, having slept only four hours of the period. It is estimated that they made about a hundred and fifty miles, and attained an altitude of six thousand feet. The ice is reported as rising in distinct terraces, and as seemingly boundless beyond. If this is the case, two hundred miles from Disco Bay, there would seem little hope of finding in Greenland an interior freed from ice. So we may pretty confidently speak of that continental body of land as still enveloped in an ice-sheet. Up to about latitude 75°, however, the continent is fringed by a border of islands, over which there is no continuous covering of ice. In south Greenland the continuous ice-sheet is reached about thirty miles back from the shore.

A summary of the results of Greenland exploration was given by Dr. Kink in 1886, from which it appears that since 1876 one thousand miles of the coast-line have been carefully explored by entering every fiord and attempting to reach the inland ice. According to this authority—

We are now able to demonstrate that a movement of ice from the central regions of Greenland to the coast continually goes on, and must be supposed to act upon the ground over which it is pushed so as to detach and transport fragments of it for such a distance.... The plainest idea of the ice-formation here in question is given by comparing it with an inundation.... Only the marginal parts show irregularity; towards the interior the surface grows more and more level and passes into a plain very slightly rising in the same direction. It has been proved that, ascending its extreme verge, where it has spread like a lava-stream over the lower ground in front of it, the irregularities are chiefly met with up to a height of 2,000 feet, but the distance from the margin in which the height is reached varies much. While under 6812° north latitude it took twenty-four miles before this elevation was attained, in 7212° the same height was arrived at in half the distance....

A general movement of the whole mass from the central regions towards the sea is still continued, but it concentrates its force to comparatively few points in the most extraordinary degree. These points are represented by the ice-fiords, through which the annual surplus ice is carried off in the shape of bergs.... In Danish Greenland are found five of the first, four of the second, and eight of the third (or least productive) class, besides a number of inlets which only receive insignificant fragments. Direct measurements of the velocity have now been applied on three first-rate and one second-rate fiords, all situated between 69° and 71° north latitude. The measurements have been repeated during the coldest and the warmest season, and connected with surveying and other investigations of the inlets and their environs. It is now proved that the glacier branches which produce the bergs proceed incessantly at a rate of thirty to fifty feet per diem, this movement being not at all influenced by the seasons. . . .

In the ice-fiord of Jakobshavn, which spreads its enormous bergs over Disco Bay and probably far into the Atlantic, the productive part of the glacier is 4,500 metres (about 212 miles) broad. The movement along its middle line, which is quicker than on the sides nearer the shores, can be rated at fifty feet per diem. The bulk of ice here annually forced into the sea would, if taken on the shore, make a mountain two miles long, two miles broad, and 1,000 feet high. The ice-fiord of Torsukatak receives four or five branches of the glacier; the most productive of them is about 9,000 metres broad (five miles), and moves between sixteen and thirty-two feet per diem. The large Karajak Glacier, about 7,000 metres (four miles) broad, proceeds at a rate of from twenty-two to thirty-eight feet per diem. Finally, a glacier branch dipping into the fiord of Jtivdliarsuk, 5,800 metres broad (three miles), moved between twenty-four and forty-six feet per diem.[AK]

[AK] See Transactions of the Edinburgh Geological Society for February 18, 1886, vol. v, part ii, pp. 286-293.

The principal part of our information concerning the glaciers of Greenland north of Melville Bay was obtained by Drs. Kane and Hayes, in 1853 and 1854, while conducting an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin and his unfortunate crew. Dr. Hayes conducted another expedition to the same desolate region in 1860, while other explorers have to some extent supplemented their observations. The largest glacier which they saw enters the sea between latitude 79° and 80°, where it presents a precipitous discharging front more than sixty miles in width and hundreds of feet in perpendicular height.

Dr. Kane gives his first impressions of this grand glacier in the following vivid description:

“I will not attempt to do better by florid description. Men only rhapsodize about Niagara and the ocean. My notes speak simply of the ‘long, ever-shining line of cliff diminished to a well-pointed wedge in the perspective’; and, again, of ‘the face of glistening ice, sweeping in a long curve from the low interior, the facets in front intensely illuminated by the sun.’ But this line of cliff rose in a solid, glassy wall three hundred feet above the water-level, with an unknown, unfathomable depth below it; and its curved face, sixty miles in length from Cape Agassiz to Cape Forbes, vanished into unknown space at not more than a single day’s railroad-travel from the pole. The interior, with which it communicated and from which it issued, was an unsurveyed mer de glace—an ice-ocean to the eye, of boundless dimensions.

“It was in full sight—the mighty crystal bridge which connects the two continents of America and Greenland. I say continents, for Greenland, however insulated it may ultimately prove to be, is in mass strictly continental. Its least possible axis, measured from Cape Farewell to the line of this glacier, in the neighbourhood of the eightieth parallel, gives a length of more than 1,200 miles, not materially less than that of Australia from its northern to its southern cape.

“Imagine, now, the centre of such a continent, occupied through nearly its whole extent by a deep, unbroken sea of ice that gathers perennial increase from the water-shed of vast snow-covered mountains and all the precipitations of its atmosphere upon its own surface. Imagine this, moving onwards like a great glacial river, seeking outlets at every fiord and valley, rolling icy cataracts into the Atlantic and Greenland seas; and, having at last reached the northern limit of the land that has borne it up, pouring out a mighty frozen torrent into unknown arctic space!

“It is thus, and only thus, that we must form a just conception of a phenomenon like this great glacier. I had looked in my own mind for such an appearance, should I ever be fortunate enough to reach the northern coast of Greenland; but, now that it was before me, I could hardly realize it. I had recognized, in my quiet library at home, the beautiful analogies which Forbes and Studer have developed between the glacier and the river. But I could not comprehend at first this complete substitution of ice for water.

“It was slowly that the conviction dawned on me that I was looking upon the counterpart of the great river-system of Arctic Asia and America. Yet here were no water-feeders from the south. Every particle of moisture had its origin within the polar circle and had been converted into ice. There were no vast alluvions, no forest or animal traces borne down by liquid torrents. Here was a plastic, moving, semi-solid mass, obliterating life, swallowing rocks and islands, and ploughing its way with irresistible march through the crust of an investing sea.”[AL]

[AL] Arctic Explorations in the Years 1853, 1854, and 1855, vol. i, pp. 225-228.

Much less is known concerning the eastern coast of Greenland than about the western coast. For a long time it was supposed that there might be a considerable population in the lower latitudes along the eastern side. But that is now proved to be a mistake. The whole coast is very inhospitable and difficult of approach. From latitude 65° to latitude 69° little or nothing is known of it. In 1822-’23 Scoresby, Cleavering, and Sabine hastily explored the coast from latitude 69° to 76°, and reported numerous glaciers descending to the sea-level through extensive fiords, from which immense icebergs float out and render navigation dangerous. In 1869 and 1870 the second North-German Expedition partly explored the coast between latitude 73° and 77°. Mr. Payer, an experienced Alpine explorer, who accompanied the expedition, reports the country as much broken, and the glaciers as “subordinated in position to the higher peaks, and having their moraines, both lateral and terminal, like those of the Alpine ranges, and on a still grander scale.” Petermann Peak, in latitude 73°, is reported as 13,000 feet high. Captain Koldewey, chief of the expedition, found extensive plateaus on the mainland, in latitude 75°, to be “entirely clear of snow, although only sparsely covered with vegetation.” The mountains in this vicinity, also, rising to a height of more than 2,000 feet, were free from snow in the summer. Some of the fiords in this vicinity penetrate the continent through several degrees of longitude.

An interesting episode of this expedition was the experience of the crew of the ship Hansa, which was caught in the ice and destroyed. The crew, however, escaped by encamping on the ice-floe which had crushed the ship. From this, as it slowly floated towards the south through several degrees of latitude, they had opportunity to make many important observations upon the continent itself. As viewed from this unique position the coast had the appearance everywhere of being precipitous, with mountains of considerable height rising in the background, from which numerous small glaciers descended to the sea-level.

In 1888 Dr. F. Nansen, with Lieutenant Sverdrup and four others, was left by a whaler on the ice-pack bordering the east of Greenland about latitude 65°, and in sight of the coast. For twelve days the party was on the ice-pack floating south, and so actually reached the coast only about latitude 64°. From this point they attempted to cross the inland ice in a northwesterly direction towards Christianshaab. They soon reached a height of 7,000 feet, and were compelled by severe northerly storms to diverge from their course, taking a direction more to the west. The greatest height attained was 9,500 feet, and the party arrived on the western coast at Ameralik Fiord, a little south of Godhaab, about the same latitude at which they entered.

It thus appears that subsequent investigations have confirmed in a remarkable manner the sagacious conclusions made by the eminent Scotch geologist and glacialist Robert Brown in 1875, soon after his own expedition to the country. “I look upon Greenland and its interior ice-field,” he writes, "in the light of a broad-lipped, shallow vessel, but with chinks in the lips here and there, and the glacier like viscous matter in it. As more is poured in, the viscous matter will run over the edges, naturally taking the line of the chinks as its line of outflow. The broad lips of the vessel are the outlying islands or ‘outskirts’; the viscous matter in the vessel the inland ice, the additional matter continually being poured in in the form of the enormous snow covering, which, winter after winter, for seven or eight months in the year, falls almost continuously on it; the chinks are the fiords or valleys down which the glaciers, representing the outflowing viscous matter, empty the surplus of the vessel—in other words, the ice floats out in glaciers, overflows the land in fact, down the valleys and fiords of Greenland by force of the superincumbent weight of snow, just as does the grain on the floor of a barn (as admirably described by Mr. Jamieson) when another sackful is emptied on the top of the mound already on the floor. ‘The floor is flat, and therefore does not conduct the grain in any direction; the outward motion is due to the pressure of the particles of grain on one another; and, given a floor of infinite extension and a pile of sufficient amount, the mass would move outward to any distance, and with a very slight pitch or slope it would slide forward along the incline.’ To this let me add that if the floor on the margin of the heap of grain was undulating the stream of grain would take the course of such undulations. The want, therefore, of much slope in a country and the absence of any great mountain-range are of very little moment to the movement of land-ice, provided we have snow enough" On another page Dr. Brown had well said that “the country seems only a circlet of islands separated from one another by deep fiords or straits, and bound together on the landward side by the great ice covering which overlies the whole interior.... No doubt under this ice there lies land, just as it lies under the sea; but nowadays none can be seen, and as an insulating medium it might as well be water.”

In his recently published volumes descriptive of the journey across the Greenland ice-sheet, alluded to on [page 39], Dr. Nansen sums up his inferences in very much the same way: “The ice-sheet rises comparatively abruptly from the sea on both sides, but more especially on the east coast, while its central portion is tolerably flat. On the whole, the gradient decreases the farther one gets into the interior, and the mass thus presents the form of a shield with a surface corrugated by gentle, almost imperceptible, undulations lying more or less north and south, and with its highest point not placed symmetrically, but very decidedly nearer the east coast than the west.”

From this rapid glance at the existing glaciers of the world we see that a great ice age is not altogether a strange thing in the world. The lands about the south pole and Greenland are each continental in dimensions, and present at the present time accumulations of land-ice so extensive, so deep, and so alive with motion as to prepare our minds for almost anything that may be suggested concerning the glaciated condition of other portions of the earth’s surface. The vera causa is sufficient to accomplish anything of which glacialists have ever dreamed. It only remains to enquire what the facts really are and over how great an extent of territory the actual results of glacial action may be found. But we will first direct more particular attention to some of the facts and theories concerning glacial motion.

[CHAPTER III.]

GLACIAL MOTION.

That glacial ice actually moves after the analogy of a semi-fluid has been abundantly demonstrated by observation. In the year 1827 Professor Hugi, of Soleure, built a hut far up upon the Aar Glacier in Switzerland, in order to determine the rate of its motion. After three years he found that it had moved 330 feet; after nine years, 2,354 feet; and after fourteen years Louis Agassiz found that its motion had been 4,712 feet. In 1841 Agassiz began a more accurate series of observation upon the same glacier. Boring holes in the ice, he set across it a row of stakes which, on visiting in 1842, he found to be no longer in a straight line. All had moved downwards with varying velocity, those near the centre having moved farther than the others. The displacements of the stakes were in order, from side to side, as follows: 160 feet, 225 feet, 269 feet, 245 feet, 210 feet, and 125 feet. Agassiz followed up his observations for six years, and in 1847 published the results in his celebrated work System Glacière.

Fig. 16.

But in August, 1841, the distinguished Swiss investigator had invited Professor J. D. Forbes, of Edinburgh, to interest himself in solving the problem of glacial motion. In response to this request, Professor Forbes spent three weeks with Agassiz upon the Aar Glacier. Stimulated by the interest of this visit, Forbes returned to Switzerland in 1842 and began a series of independent investigations upon the Mer de Glace. After a week’s observations with accurate instruments, Forbes wrote to Professor Jameson, editor of the Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, that he had already made it certain that “the central part of the glacier moves faster than the edges in a very considerable proportion, quite contrary to the opinion generally maintained.” This letter was dated July 4, 1842, but was not published until the October following, Agassiz’s results, so far as then determined, were, however, published in Comptes Rendus of the 29th of August, 1842, two months before the publication of Forbes’s letter. But Agassiz’s letter was dated twenty-seven days later than that of Forbes. It becomes certain, therefore, that both Agassiz and Forbes, independently and about the same time, discovered the fact that the central portion of a glacier moves more rapidly than the sides.

In 1857 Professor Tyndall began his systematic and fruitful observations upon the Mer de Glace and other Alpine glaciers. Professor Forbes had already demonstrated that, with an accurate instrument of observation, the motion of a line of stakes might be observed after the lapse of a single clay, or even of a few hours. As a result of Tyndall’s observations, it was found that the most rapid daily motion in the Mer de Glace in 1857 was about thirty-seven inches. This amount of motion was near the lower end of the glacier On ascending the glacier, the rate was found in general to be diminished; but the diminution was not uniform throughout the whole distance, being affected both by the size and by the contour of the valley. The motion in the tributary glaciers was also much less than that of the main glacier.

This diminution of movement in the tributary glaciers was somewhat proportionate to their increase in width. For example, the combined width of the three tributaries uniting to form the Mer de Glace is 2,597 yards; but a short distance below the junction of these tributaries the total width of the Mer de Glace itself is only 893 yards, or one-third that of the tributaries combined. Yet, though the depth of the ice is probably here much greater than in the tributaries, the rapidity of movement is between two and three times as great as that of any one of the branches.[AM]

[AM] See Tyndall’s Forms of Water, pp. 78-82.

From Tyndall’s observations it appears also that the line of most rapid motion is not exactly in the middle of the channel, but is pushed by its own momentum from one side to the other of the middle, so as always to be nearer the concave side; in this respect conforming, as far as its nature will permit, to the motion of water in a tortuous channel.

Fig. 17.

It is easy to account for this differential motion upon the surface of a glacier, since it is clear that the friction of the sides of the channel must retard the motion of ice as it does that of water. It is clear also that the friction of the bottom must retard the motion of ice even more than it is known to do in the case of water. In the formation of breakers, when the waves roll in upon a shallowing beach, every one is familiar with the effect of the bottom upon the moving mass. Here friction retards the lower strata of water, and the upper strata slide over the lower, and, where the water is of sufficient depth and the motion is sufficiently great, the crest breaks down in foam before the ever-advancing tide. A similar phenomenon occurs when dams give way and reservoirs suddenly pour their contents into the restricted channels below. At such times the advancing water rolls onwards like the surf with a perpendicular front, varying in height according to the extent of the flood.

Seasoning from these phenomena connected with moving water, it was naturally suggested to Professor Tyndall that an analogous movement must take place in a glacier. Choosing, therefore, a favourable place for observation on the Mer de Glace where the ice emerged from a gorge, he found a perpendicular side about one hundred and fifty feet in height from bottom to top. In this face he drove stakes in a perpendicular line from top to bottom. Upon subsequently observing them, Tyndall found, as he expected, that there was a differential motion among them as in the stakes upon the surface. The retarding effect of friction upon the bottom was evident. The stake near the top moved forwards about three times as fast as the one which was only four feet from the bottom.

Fig. 18.

The most rapid motion (thirty-seven inches per day) observed by Professor Tyndall upon the Alpine glaciers occurred in midsummer. In winter the rate was only about one-half as great; but in the year 1875 the Norwegian geologist, Helland, reported a movement of twenty metres (about sixty-five feet) per day in the Jakobshavn Glacier which enters Disco Bay, Greenland, about latitude 70°. For some time there was a disposition on the part of many scientific men to doubt the correctness of Holland’s calculations. Subsequent observations have shown, however, that from the comparatively insignificant glaciers of the Alps they were not justified in drawing inferences with respect to the motion of the vastly larger masses which come down to the sea through the fiords of Greenland. The Jakobshavn Glacier was about two and a half miles in width and its depth very likely more than a thousand feet, making a cross-section of more than 1,400,000 square yards, whereas the cross-section of the Mer de Glace at Montanvert is estimated to be but 190,000 square yards or only about one-seventh the above estimate for the Greenland glacier. As the friction of the sides would be no greater upon a large stream than upon a small one, while upon the bottom it would be only in proportion to the area, it is evident that we cannot tell beforehand how rapidly an increase in the volume of the ice might augment the velocity of the glacier.

At any rate, all reasonable grounds for distrusting the accuracy of Helland’s estimates seem to have been removed by later investigations. According to my own observations in the summer of 1886 upon the Muir Glacier, Alaska, the central portions, a mile back from the front of that vast ice-current, were moving from sixty-five to seventy feet per day. These observations were taken with a sextant upon pinnacles of ice recognizable from a baseline established upon the shore. It is fair to add, however, that during the summer of 1890 Professor H. F. Reid attempted to measure the motion of the same glacier by methods promising greater accuracy than could be obtained by mine. He endeavoured to plant, after the method of Tyndall, a line of stakes across the ice-current. But with his utmost efforts, working inwards from both sides, he was unable to accomplish his purpose, and so left unmeasured a quarter of a mile or more of the most rapidly-moving portion of the glacier. His results, therefore, of ten feet per day in the most rapidly-moving portion observed cannot discredit my own observations on a portion of the stream inaccessible by his method. A quarter of a mile in width near the centre of so vast a glacier gives ample opportunity for a much greater rate of motion than that observed by Professor Reid. Especially may this be true in view of Tyndall’s suggestion that the contour of the bottom over which the ice flows may greatly affect the rate in certain places. A sudden deepening of the channel may affect the motion of ice in a glacier as much as it does that of water in a river.

Other observations also amply sustain the conclusions of Helland. As already stated, the Danish surveying party under Steenstrup, after several years’ work upon the southwestern coast of Greenland, have ascertained that the numerous glaciers coming down to the sea in that region and furnishing the icebergs incessantly floating down Baffin’s Bay, move at a rate of from thirty to fifty feet per day, while Lieutenants Ryder and Bloch, of the Danish Navy, who spent the year 1887 in exploring the coast in the vicinity of Upernavik, about latitude 73°, found that the great glacier entering the fiord east of the village had a velocity of ninety-nine feet per day during the month of August.[AN]

[AN] Nature, December 29, 1887.

It is easier to establish the fact of glacial motion than to explain how the motion takes place, for ice seems to be as brittle as glass. This, however, is true of it only when compelled suddenly to change its form. When subjected to slow and long-continued pressure it gradually yet readily yields, and takes on new forms. From this capacity of ice, it has come to be regarded by some as a really viscous substance, like tar or cooling lava, and upon that theory Professor Forbes endeavours to explain all glacial movement.

The theory, however, seems to be contradicted by familiar facts; for the iceman, after sawing a shallow groove across a piece of ice, can then split it as easily as he would a piece of sandstone or wood. On the glaciers themselves, likewise, the existence of innumerable crevasses would seem to contradict the plastic theory of glacier motion; for, wherever the slope of the glacier’s bed increases, crevasses are formed by the increased strain to which the ice is subjected. Crevasses are also formed in rapidly-moving glaciers by the slight strain occasioned by the more rapid motion of the middle portion. Still, in the words of Tyndall, “it is undoubted that the glacier moves like a viscous body. The centre flows past the sides, the top flows over the bottom, and the motion through a curved valley corresponds to fluid motion.”[AO]

[AO] Forms of Water, p. 163.

To explain this combination of the seemingly contradictory qualities of brittleness and viscosity in ice, physicists have directed attention to the remarkable transformations which take place in water at the freezing-point. Faraday discovered in 1850 that "when two pieces of thawing ice are placed together they freeze together at the point of contact.[AP]

[AP] Ibid., p. 164.

“Place a number of fragments of ice in a basin of water and cause them to touch each other; they freeze together where they touch. You can form a chain of such fragments; and then, by taking hold of one end of the chain, you can draw the whole series after it. Chains of icebergs are sometimes formed in this way in the arctic seas.”[AQ]

[AQ] Ibid., pp. 164, 165.

This is really what takes place when a hard snow-ball is made by pressure in the hand. So, by subjecting fragments of ice to pressure it is first crumbled to powder, and then, as the particles are pressed together in close contact, it resumes the nature of ice again, though in a different form, taking now the shape of the mould in which it has been pressed.

Thus it is supposed that, when the temperature of ice is near the melting-point, the pressure of the superincumbent mass may produce at certain points insensible disintegration, while, upon the removal of the pressure by change of position, regulation instantly takes place, and thus the phenomena which simulate plasticity are produced. As the freezing-point of water is, within a narrow range, determined by the amount of pressure to which it is subjected, it is not difficult to see how these changes may occur. Pressure slightly lowers the freezing-point, and so would liquefy the portions of ice subjected to greatest pressure, wherever that might be in the mass of the glacier, and thus permit a momentary movement of the particles, until they should recongeal in adjusting themselves to spaces of less pressure.[AR] This is the theory by which Professor James Thompson would account for the apparent plasticity of glacial ice.

[AR] Forms of Water, p. 168.

[CHAPTER IV.]

SIGNS OF PAST GLACIATION.

The facts from which we draw the inference that vast areas of the earth’s surface which are now free from glaciers were, at a comparatively recent time, covered with them, are fourfold, and are everywhere open to inspection. These facts are: 1. Scratches upon the rocks. 2. Extensive unstratified deposits of clay and sand intermingled with scratched stones and loose fragments of rock. 3. Transported boulders left in such positions and of such size as to preclude the sufficiency of water-carriage to account for them. 4. Extensive gravel terraces bordering the valleys which emerge from the glaciated areas. We will consider these in their order:

1. The scratches upon the rocks.

Almost anywhere in the region designated as having been covered with ice during the Glacial period, the surface of the rocks when freshly uncovered will be found to be peculiarly marked by grooves and scratches more or less fine, and such as could not be produced by the action of water. But, when we consider the nature of a glacier, these marks seem to be just what would be produced by the pushing or dragging along of boulders, pebbles, gravel, and particles of sand underneath a moving mass of ice.

Running water does indeed move gravel, pebbles, and boulders along with the current, but these objects are not held by it in a firm grasp, such as is required to make a groove or scratch in the rock. If, also, there are inequalities in the compactness or hardness of the rock, the natural action of running water is to hollow out the soft parts, and leave the harder parts projecting. But, in the phenomena which we are attributing to glacial action, there has been a movement which has steadily planed down the surface of the underlying rock; polishing it, indeed, but also grooving it and scratching it in a manner which could be accomplished only by firmly held graving-tools.

Fig. 19.—Bed-rock scored with glacial marks, near Amherst, Ohio. (From a photograph by Chamberlin.)

This polishing and scratching can indeed be produced by various agencies; as, for example, by the forces which fracture the earth’s crust, and shove one portion past another, producing what is called a slicken-side. Or, again, avalanches or land-slides might be competent to produce the results over limited and peculiarly situated areas. Icebergs, also, and shore ice which is moved backwards and forwards by the waves, would produce a certain amount of such grooving and scratching. But the phenomena to which we refer are so extensive, and occur in such a variety of situations, that the movement of glacial ice is alone sufficient to afford a satisfactory explanation. Moreover, in Alaska, Greenland, Norway, and Switzerland, and wherever else there are living glaciers, it is possible to follow up these grooved and striated surfaces till they disappear underneath the existing glaciers which are now producing the phenomena. Thus by its tracks we can, as it were, follow this monster to its lair with as great certainty as we could any animal with whose footprints we had become familiar.

2. The till, or boulder-clay.

A second sign of the former existence of glaciers over any area consists of an unstratified deposit of earthy material, of greater or less depth, in which scratched pebbles and fragments of rock occur without any definite arrangement.

Moving water is a most perfect sieve. During floods, a river shoves along over its bed gravel and pebbles of considerable size, whereas in time of low-water the current may be so gentle as to transport nothing but fine sand, and the clay will be carried still farther onwards, to settle in the still water and form a delta about the river’s mouth. The transporting capacity of running water is in direct ratio to the sixth power of its velocity. Other things being equal, if the velocity be doubled, the size of the grains of sand or gravel which it transports is increased sixty-four fold.[AS] So frequent are the changes in the velocity of running water, that the stratification of its deposits is almost necessary and universal. If large fragments of rocks or boulders are found embedded in stratified clay, it is pretty surely a sign that they have been carried to their position by floating ice. A small mountain stream with great velocity may move a good-sized boulder, while the Amazon, with its mighty but slow-moving current, would pass by it forever without stirring it from its position. But the vast area which is marked in our map as having been covered with ice during the Glacial period is characterised by deep and extensive deposits of loose material devoid of stratification, and composed of soil and rock gathered in considerable part from other localities, and mixed in an indiscriminate mass with material which has originated in the disintegration of the underlying local strata.

[AS] Le Conte’s Geology, p. 19.

Fig. 20.—Scratched stone from the till of Boston. Natural size about one foot and a half long by ten inches wide. (From photograph.)

Fig. 21.—Typical section of till in Seattle. Washington State, about two hundred feet above Puget Sound. This is on the height between the sound and Lake Washington.

Fig. 22.—Ideal section, showing how the till overlies the stratified rocks.

Fig. 23.—Vessel Rock, a glacial boulder in Gilsum. N. H. (C. H. Hitchcock.)

3. Transported boulders.

Where there is a current of water deep enough to float large masses of ice, there is scarcely any limit to the size of boulders which may be transported upon them, or to the distance to which the boulders may be carried and dropped upon the bottom. The icebergs which break off from the glaciers of Greenland may bear their burdens of rock far down into the Atlantic, depositing them finally amidst the calcareous ooze and the fine sediment from the Gulf Stream which is slowly covering the area between Northern America and Europe. Northern streams like the St. Lawrence, which are deeply frozen over with ice in the winter, and are heavily flooded as the ice breaks up in the spring, afford opportunity for much transportation of boulders in the direction of their current. In attributing the transportation of a boulder to glacial ice, it is necessary, therefore, to examine the contour of the country, so as to eliminate from the problem the possibility of the effects having been produced by floating ice.

Another source of error against which one has to be on his guard arises from the close resemblance of boulders resulting from disintegration to those which have been transported by ice from distant places. Owing to the fact that large masses of rocks, especially those which are crystalline, are seldom homogeneous in their structure, it results that, under the slow action of disintegrating and erosive agencies, the softer parts often are completely removed before the harder nodules are sensibly affected, and these may remain as a collection of boulders dotting the surface. Such boulders are frequent in the granitic regions of North Carolina and vicinity, where there has been no glacial transportation. Several localities in Pennsylvania, also, south of the line of glacial action as delineated by Professor Lewis and myself, had previously been supposed to contain transported boulders of large size, but on examination they proved in all cases to be resting upon undisturbed strata of the parent rock, and were evidently the harder portions of the rock left in loco by the processes of erosion spoken of. In New England, also, it is possible that some boulders heretofore attributed to ice-action may be simply the results of these processes of disintegration and erosion. Whether they are or not can usually be determined by their likeness or unlikeness to the rocks on which they rest; but oftentimes, where a particular variety of rock is exposed over a broad area, it is difficult to tell whether a boulder has suffered any extensive transportation or not.

Fig. 24.—Map showing the outline and course of flow of the great Rhône Glacier (after Lyell).
Click on image to view larger sized.

One of the most interesting and satisfactory demonstrations of the distribution of boulders by glacial ice was furnished by Guyot in Switzerland in 1845. His observations and argument will be most readily understood by reference to the accompanying map, taken from Lyell’s clear description.[AT] The Jura Mountains are separated from the Alps by a valley, about eighty miles in width, which constitutes the main habitable portion of Switzerland, and they rise upwards of two thousand feet above it. But large Alpine boulders are found as high as two thousand feet above the Lake Neufchâtel upon the flanks of the Jura Mountains beyond Chasseron (at the point marked G on the map), and the whole valley is dotted with Alpine boulders. Upon comparing these with the native rocks in the Alps, Guyot in many cases was able to determine the exact centres from which they were distributed, and the distribution is such as to demonstrate that glacial ice was the medium of distribution.

[AT] Antiquity of Man, p. 299.

For example, the dotted lines upon the map indicate the motion of the transporting medium. On ascending the valley of the Rhône to A, the diminutive representative of the ancient glacier is still found in existence, and is at work transporting boulders and moraines according to the law of ice-movement. Following down the valley from A, boulders from the head of the Rhône Valley are found distributed as far as B at Martigny, where the valley turns at right angles towards the north. It is evident that floating ice in a stream of water would by its momentum be carried to the left bank, so that if icebergs were the medium of transportation we should expect to find the boulders from the right-hand side of the Rhône Valley distributed towards the left end of the great valley of Switzerland—that is, in the direction of Geneva. But, instead, the boulders derived from C, D, and E, on the Bernese Oberland side, instead of crossing the valley at B, continue to keep on the right-hand side and are distributed over the main valley in the direction of the river Aar.

As is to be expected also, the direct northward motion of the ice from B is stronger than the lateral movement to the right and left after it emerges from the mouth of the Rhône Valley, at F, and consequently it has pushed forwards in a straight line, so as to raise the Alpine boulders to a greater height upon the Jura Mountains at G than anywhere else, the upper limit of boulders at G being 1,500 feet higher than the limits at I or K on the left and right, points distant about one hundred miles from each other. All the boulders to the right of the line from B to G have been derived from the right side of the Rhône, while all the boulders to the left of that line have been derived from its left side.

A boulder of talcose granite containing 61,000 French cubic feet, measuring about forty feet in one direction, came, according to Charpentier, from the point n, near the head of the Rhône Valley, and must have travelled one hundred and fifty miles to reach its present position.

It scarcely needs to be added that the grooves and scratches upon the rocks over the floor of this great valley of Switzerland indicate a direction of the ice-movement corresponding to that implied in the distribution of boulders. Thus, at K upon the map referred to, Lyell reports that the abundant grooves and striæ upon the polished marble all trend down the valley of the Aar.[AU]

[AU] Antiquity of Man, p. 305.

Similar facts concerning the transportation of boulders have been observed at Trogen, in Appenzel, where boulders derived from Trons, one hundred miles distant, are found to keep upon the left bank of the Rhine, however much the valley may wind about; and in some places, as at Mayenfeld, it turns almost at right angles, as did the Rhône at Martigny. Upon reaching the lower country at Lake Constance, these granite blocks from the left side of the valley deploy out upon the same side and do not cross over, as they would inevitably have done had they been borne along by currents of water.

In America Ave do not have quite so easy a field as is presented in Switzerland for the discovery of crucial instances showing that boulders have been transported by glacial ice rather than by floating ice, for in Switzerland the glaciated area is comparatively small and the diminutive remnants of former glaciers are still in existence, furnishing a comprehensive object-lesson of great interest and convincing power. Still, it is not difficult to find decisive instances of glacial transportation even in the broad fields of America which now retain no living remnants of the great continental ice-sheet.

As every one who resides in or who visits New England knows, boulders are scattered freely over all parts of that region, but for a long time the theory suggested to account for their distribution was that of floating ice during a period of submergence. One of the most convincing evidences that the boulders were distributed by glacial ice rather than by icebergs is found in Professor C. H. Hitchcock’s discovery of boulders on the summit of Mount Washington (over 6,000 feet above the sea), which he was able to identify as derived from the ledges of light grey Bethlehem gneiss, whose nearest outcrop is in Jefferson, several miles to the northwest, and 3,000 or 4,000 feet lower than Mount Washington. However difficult it may be to explain the movement of these boulders by glacial ice, it is not impossible to do so, but the attempt to account for their transportation by floating ice is utterly preposterous. No iceberg could pick up boulders so far beneath the surface of the water, and even if it could advance thus far in its work it could not by any possibility land them afterwards upon the summit of Mount Washington.

Among the most impressive instances of boulders evidently transported by glacial ice, rather than by icebergs, were some which came to my notice when, in company with the late Professor H. Carvill Lewis, I was tracing the glacial boundary across the State of Pennsylvania. We had reached the elevated plateau (two thousand feet above the sea) which extends westwards and southwards from the peak of Pocono Mountain, in Monroe County. This plateau consists of level strata of sandstone, the southern part of which is characterised by a thin sandy soil, such as is naturally formed by the disintegration of the underlying rock, and there is no foreign material to be found in it. But, on going northwards to the boundary of Tobyhanna township, we at once struck a large line of accumulations, stretching from east to west, and rising to a height of seventy or eighty feet. This was chiefly an accumulation of transported boulders, resembling in its structure the terminal moraines which are found at the front of glaciers in the Alps and in Alaska, and indeed wherever active glaciers still remain. But here we were upon the summit of the mountain, where there are no higher levels to the north of us, down which the ice could flow. Besides, among these boulders we readily recognised many of granite, which must have come either from the Adirondack Mountains, two hundred miles to the north, or from the Canadian highlands, still farther away.

Limiting our observations simply to the boulders, we should indeed have been at liberty to suppose that they had been transported across the valley of the Mohawk or of the Great Lakes by floating ice during a period of submergence. But we were forbidden to resort to this hypothesis by the abrupt marginal line, running east and west, upon Pocono plateau, along which these northern boulders ceased. South of this evident terminal moraine there was no barrier, and there were no northern boulders. On the theory of submergence, there was no reason for the boundary-line so clearly manifested. Ice which had floated so far would have floated farther.

Still further, on going a few miles east of the Pocono plateau, one descends into a parallel valley, lying between Pocono Mountain and Blue Mountain, and one thousand feet below their level. But our marginal southern boundary of transported granite rocks did not extend much farther south in the valley than it did on the plateau, except where we could trace the action of a running stream, evidently corresponding to the subglacial rivers which pour forth from the front of every extensive glacier. In these facts, therefore, we had a crucial test of the glacial hypothesis, and, in view of them, could maintain, against all objectors, the theory of the distant glacial transportation of boulders, even over vast areas of the North American continent.

Since that experience, I have traced this limit of southern boulders for thousands of miles across the continent, according to the delineation which may be seen in the [map in a later chapter]. If necessary, I could indicate hundreds of places where the proof of glacial transportation is almost as clear as that on the Pocono plateau in Pennsylvania. One of the most interesting of these is on the hills in Kentucky, about twelve miles south of the Ohio River, at Cincinnati, where I discovered boulders of a conglomerate containing many pebbles of red jasper, which can be identified as from a limited formation cropping out in Canada, to the north of Lake Huron, six hundred or seven hundred miles distant. That this was transported by glacial ice, and not by floating ice, is evident from the fact that here, too, there was no barrier to the south, requiring deposits to cease at that point, and from the further fact that boulders of this material are found in increasing frequency all the way from Kentucky to the parent ledges in Canada. With reference to these boulders, as with reference to those found on the summit of Mount Washington, we can reason, also, that any northerly subsidence permitting a body of water to occupy the space between Kentucky and Lake Superior, and deep enough to facilitate the movement across it of floating ice, would render it impossible for the ice to have loaded itself with them.

Fig. 25.—Conglomerate boulder found in Boone County, Kentucky. (See text.)

The same line of reasoning is conclusive respecting the innumerable boulders which cover the northern portion of Ohio, where I have my residence. The whole State of Ohio, and indeed almost the entire Mississippi basin between the Appalachian and the Rocky Mountains, is completely covered, and to a great depth, with stratified rocks which have been but slightly disturbed in the elevation of the continent; yet, down to an irregular border-line running east and west, granitic boulders everywhere occur in great numbers. In the locality spoken of in northern Ohio the elevation of the country is from two hundred to five hundred feet above the level of Lake Erie. The nearest outcrops of granitic rock occur about four hundred miles to the north, in Canada. After the meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science in Toronto in the summer of 1889, I had the privilege of joining a company of geologists in an excursion, conducted by members of the Canadian Survey, to visit the region beyond Lake Nipissing, north of Lake Huron, where the ancient Laurentian and Huronian rocks are most typically developed. I took advantage of the trip to collect specimens of a great variety of the granites and gneisses and metamorphic schists and trap-rock of the region. On bringing them home I turned them over to the professor of geology, who at once set his class at work to see if they could match my fragments from Canada with corresponding fragments from the boulders of the vicinity. To the great gratification, both of the pupils and myself, they were able to do so in almost every case; and so they might have done in any county or township to the south until reaching the limit of glacier action which I had previously mapped. Here, at Oberlin, on the north side of the water-shed, it is possible to imagine that we are on the southern border of an ancient lake upon whose bosom floating ice had brought these objects from their distant home in Canada. But this theory would not apply to the portion of the State which is south of the water-shed and which slopes rapidly towards the Gulf of Mexico. Yet the distribution of boulders is practically uniform over the glaciated area on both sides of the water-shed, constituting thus an indisputable proof of the glacial theory.

4th. As the significance of the gravel terraces which mark the lines of outward drainage from the glaciated area cannot well be indicated in a single paragraph, the reader is referred for further information upon this point to the general statements respecting them throughout the next chapter.

Click on map to view larger sized.

[CHAPTER V.]

ANCIENT GLACIERS IN THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE.

New England.

In North America all the indubitable signs of glacial action are found over the entire area of New England, the southern coast being bordered by a double line of terminal moraines. The outermost of these appears in Nantucket, Martha’s Vineyard, No Man’s Land, Block Island, and through the entire length of Long Island—from Montauk Point, through the centre of the island, to Brooklyn, N. Y., and thence across Staten Island to Perth Amboy in New Jersey. The interior line is nearly parallel with the outer, and, beginning at the east end of Cape Cod, runs in a westerly direction to Falmouth, and thence southwesterly through Wood’s Holl, and the Elizabeth Islands—these being, indeed, but the unsubmerged portions of the moraine. On the mainland this interior line reappears near Point Judith, on the south shore of Rhode Island, and, running slightly south of west, serves to give character to the scenery at Watch Hill, and thence crops out in the Sound as Fisher and Plum Islands, and farther west forms the northern shore of Long Island to Port Jefferson.

In these accumulations bordering the southern shore of New England, the characteristic marks of glacial action can readily be detected even by the casual observer, and prolonged examination will amply confirm the first impression. The material of which they are composed is, for the most part, foreign to the localities, and can be traced to outcrops of rock at the north. The boulders scattered over the surface of Long Island, for example, consist largely of granite, gneiss, hornblende, mica slate, and red sandstone, which are easily recognised as fragments from well-known quarries in Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts; yet they have been transported bodily across Long Island Sound, and deposited in a heterogeneous mass through the entire length of the island. Not only do they lie upon the surface, but, in digging into the lines of hills which constitute the backbone of Long Island, these transported boulders are found often to make up a large part of the accumulation. Almost any of the railroad excavations in the city of Brooklyn present an interesting object-lesson respecting the composition of a terminal moraine.

All these things are true also of the lines of moraine farther east, as just described. Professor Shaler has traced to its source a belt of boulders occurring extensively over southern Rhode Island, and found that they have spread out pretty evenly over a triangular area to the southward, in accordance with the natural course to be pursued by an ice-movement. Nearly all of Plymouth County, in southeastern Massachusetts, is composed of foreign material, much of which can be traced to the hills and mountains to the north. Even Plymouth Rock is a boulder from the direction of Boston, and the “rock-bound” shores upon which the Pilgrims are poetically conceived to have landed are known, in scientific prose, as piles of glacial rubbish dumped into the edge of the sea by the great continental ice-sheet.

The whole area of southeastern Massachusetts is dotted with conical knolls of sand, gravel, and boulders, separated by circular masses of peat or ponds of water, whose origin and arrangement can be accounted for only by the peculiar agency of a decaying ice-front. Indeed, this whole line of moraines, from the end of Cape Cod to Brooklyn, N. Y., consists of a reticulated network of ridges and knolls, so deposited by the ice as to form innumerable kettle-holes which are filled with water where other conditions are favourable. Those which are dry are so because of their elevation above the general level, and of the looseness of the surrounding soil; while many have been filled with a growth of peat, so that their original character as lakelets is disguised.

As already described, these depressions, so characteristic of the glaciated region, are, in the majority of cases, supposed to have originated by the deposition of a great quantity of earthy material around and upon the masses of ice belonging to the receding front of the glacier, so that, when at length the ice melted away, a permanent depression in the soil was left, without any outlet.

To some extent, however, the kettle-holes may have been formed by the irregular deposition of streams of water whose courses have crossed each other, or where eddies of considerable force have been produced in any way. The ordinary formation of kettle-holes can be observed in progress on the foot of almost any glacier, or, indeed, on a small scale, during the melting away of almost any winter’s snow. Where, from any cause, a stratum of dirt has accumulated upon a mass of compact snow or ice, it will be found to settle down in an irregular manner; furrows will be formed in various directions by currents of water, so that the melting will proceed irregularly, and produce upon a miniature scale exactly what I have seen on a large scale over whole square miles of the decaying foot of the great Muir Glacier in Alaska. The effects of similar causes and conditions we can see on a most enormous scale in the ten thousand lakes and ponds and peat-bogs of the whole glaciated area both in North America and in Europe.

In addition to these two lines of evidence of glacial action in New England, we should mention also the innumerable glacial grooves and scratches upon the rocks which can be found on almost any freshly uncovered surface. In New England the direction of these grooves is ordinarily a little east of south. Upon the east coast of Massachusetts and New Hampshire the scratches trend much more to the east than they do over most of the interior. This is as it should be on the glacial theory, since the ice would naturally move outwards in the line of least resistance, which would, of course, be towards the open sea wherever that is near. In the interior of New England the scratches upon the rocks indicate a more southerly movement in the Connecticut Valley than upon the mountains in the western part of Massachusetts. This also is as it should be upon the glacial theory. The scratches upon the mountains were made when the ice was at its greatest depth and when it moved over the country in comparative disregard of minor irregularities of surface, while in the valleys, at least in the later portion of the Ice age, the movement would be obstructed except in one direction. In the interpretation of the glacial grooves and scratches it should be borne in mind that they often represent the work done during the closing stages of the period. Just as the last shove of the carpenter’s plane removes the marks of the previous work, so the last rasping of a glacial movement wears away the surfaces which have been previously polished and striated.

In various places of New England it is interesting as well as instructive to trace the direction of the ice-movement by the distribution of boulders. My own attention was early attracted to numerous fragments of gneiss in eastern Massachusetts containing beautiful crystals of feldspar, which proved to be peculiar to the region of Lake Winnepesaukee, a hundred miles to the north, and to a narrow belt stretching thence to the southwestward. In ascending almost any of the lower summits of the White Mountains one’s attention can scarcely fail of being directed to the difference between the material of which the mountains are composed and that of the numerous boulders which lie scattered over the surface. The local geologist readily recognises these boulders as pilgrims that have wandered far from their homes to the northward.

Trains of boulders, such as those already described in Rhode Island, can frequently be traced to some prominent outcrop of the rock in a hill or mountain-peak from which they have been derived. One of the earliest of these to attract attention occurs in the towns of Richmond, Lenox, and Stockbridge, in the western part of Massachusetts. Here a belt of peculiar boulders about four hundred feet wide is found to originate in the town of Lebanon, N. Y., and to run continuously to the southeast for a distance of nine miles. West of Fry’s Hill, where the outcrop occurs, no boulders of this variety of rock are to be found, while to the southeast the boulders gradually diminish in size as their distance from the outcrop increases. Near the outcrop boulders of thirty feet in diameter occur, while nine miles away two feet is the largest diameter observed.

Sir Charles Lyell endeavoured to explain this train of boulders by the action of icebergs during a period of submergence—supposing that, as icebergs floated past or away from this hill in Lebanon, N. Y., they were the means of the regular distribution described. It is needless to repeat the difficulties arising in connection with such a theory, since now both by observation and experiment we have become more familiar with the movement of glacial ice. What we have already said about the transportation of boulders over Switzerland by the Alpine glaciers, and what is open to observation at the present time upon the large glaciers of Alaska, closely agree with the facts concerning this Richmond train of boulders, and we have no occasion to look further for a cause.

Indeed, trains of boulders ought to appear almost everywhere over the glaciated area; and so they do where all the circumstances are favourable. But, readily to identify the train, requires that to furnish the boulders there should be in the line of the ice-movement a projecting mass of rock hard enough to offer considerable resistance to the abrading agency of the ice and characteristic enough in its composition to be readily recognised. Ship Rock, in Peabody, Mass., weighing about eleven hundred tons, and Mohegan Rock, in Montville, Conn., weighing about ten thousand tons, have ordinarily been pointed to as boulders illustrating the power of ice-action. Their glacial character, however, has been challenged from the fact that the variety of granite to which they belong occurs in the neighbourhood, and indeed constitutes the bed-rock upon which they rest.[AV] Some would therefore consider them, like some of which we have already spoken, to be boulders which have originated through the disintegration of great masses of rock, of which these were harder nuclei that have longer resisted the ravages of the tooth of time. It must be admitted that possibly this explanation is correct; but it is scarcely probable that, in a region where there are so many other evidences of glacial action, these boulders could have remained immovable in presence of the onward progress of the ice-current that certainly passed over them.

[AV] Popular Science Monthly, vol. xxxvii, pp. 196-201.

However, as already seen, we are not left to doubt as to the movement of some boulders of great size. That which now claims the reputation of being the largest in New England is in Madison, N. H., and measures thirty by forty by seventy-five feet. This can be traced to ledges of Conway granite, about two miles away.[AW] Many boulders in the vicinity of New Haven, Conn., can be identified, as from well-known trap-dykes, sixteen miles or more to the north. The so-called Judge’s Cave, on West Rock, 365 feet above the adjoining valley and weighing a thousand tons, is one of these. Professor Edward Orton[AX] describes a mass of Clinton limestone near Freeport, Warren County, Ohio, as covering an area of three-fourths of an acre, and as sixteen feet in thickness. It overlies glacial clays and gravels, and must have been transported bodily from the elevations containing this rock several miles to the northwest.

[AW] See W. 0. Crosby’s paper in Appalachia, vol. vi, pp. 59-70.

[AX] Geological Survey of Ohio, vol. iii, p. 385,

Fig. 26.—Mohegan Rock.

Portions of New England present the best illustrations anywhere afforded in America of what are called “drumlins.” These are “lenticular-shaped” hills, composed of till, and containing, interspersed through their mass, numerous scratched stones of all sizes. They vary in length from a few hundred feet to a mile, and are usually from half to two-thirds as wide as they are long. In height they vary from twenty-five to two hundred feet.

But, according to the description of Mr. Upham, whatever may be their size and height, they are singularly alike in outline and form, usually having steep sides, with gently sloping, rounded tops, and presenting a very smooth and regular contour. From this resemblance in shape to an elliptical convex lens, Professor Hitchcock has called them lenticular hills to distinguish these deposits of till from the broadly flattened or undulating sheets which are common throughout New England.

Fig. 27.—Drumlins in Goffstown, N. H. (Hitchcock).

The trend, or direction of the longer axis, of these lenticular hills is nearly the same for all of them comprised within any limited area, and is approximately like the course of the striæ or glacial furrows marked upon the neighbouring ledges. In eastern Massachusetts and New Hampshire, within twenty-five miles of the coast, it is quite uniformly to the southeast, or east-southeast. Farther inland, in both of these States, it is generally from north to south, or a few degrees east of south; while in the valley of the Connecticut River it is frequently a little to the west of south. In New Hampshire, besides its accumulation in these hills, the till is frequently amassed in slopes of similar lenticular form. These have their position almost invariably upon either the south or north side of the ledgy hills against which they rest, showing a considerable deflection towards the southeast and northwest in the east part of the State. It cannot be doubted that the trend of the lenticular hills, and the direction taken by these slopes, have been determined by the glacial current, which produced the striæ with which they are parallel.[AY]

[AY] Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History, vol. xx, pp. 224, 225.

Drumlins are abundant in the vicinity of Boston, and constitute nearly all the islands in Boston Harbour. On the mainland, Beacon Hill, Bunker Hill, Green Hill, Powderhorn Hill, Tufts College Hill, Winter Hill, Mount Ida, Corey Hill, Parker Hill, Wollaston Heights, Prospect Hill, and Telegraph Hill are specimens.

The northeastern corner of Massachusetts and the southeastern corner of New Hampshire are largely covered with these peculiar-shaped glacial deposits, while they are numerous as far west as Fitchburg, in Massachusetts, and Ware, N. H., and in the northeastern part of Connecticut. A little later, also, we shall refer to an interesting line of them in central New York. Elsewhere in America, except in a portion of Wisconsin, they rarely occur in such fine development as in New England. In Europe they are best developed in portions of Ireland.

One’s first impression in examining an exposed section of a drumlin would lead him to think that the mass was entirely unstratified; but closer examination shows that there is a coarse stratification, but evidently not produced by water-action. The accumulation has probably taken place gradually by successive deposits underneath the glacier itself. Professor William M. Davis has suggested a plausible explanation which we will briefly state.

Fig. 28.—Drumlins in the vicinity of Boston (Davis).

The frequency with which drumlins are found to rest upon a mass of projecting rock, the general co-ordination of the direction of their axes with the direction of the scratches upon the underlying rock, and the abundance of scratched stones in them, all support the theory that drumlins are formed underneath the ice-sheet, somewhat in the way that islands and bars of silt are formed in the delta of a great river. The movement of ice seems to have been concentrated in pretty definite lines, often determined by the contour of the bottom, leaving a slacker movement in intervening areas, which were evidently protected in some cases by projecting masses of rock. In these areas of slower movement there was naturally an accumulation at the same time that there was vigorous erosion in the lines of more rapid movement.

There was doubtless a continual transfer of material from the end of the drumlin which abutted against the moving mass of ice to the lower end, as there is in the formation of an island in a river. If time enough had elapsed, the whole accumulation would have been levelled by the glacier and spread over the broader area where the more rapid lines of movement became confluent, and where the differential motion was less marked. Drumlins are thus characteristic of areas in the glaciated region whose floor was originally only moderately irregular, and where there was an excessive amount of ground-moraine to be transported, and where the movement did not continue indefinitely. It has been suggested, also, that some of the long belts of territory in New England and central New York covered by drumlins may represent old terminal moraines which were subsequently surmounted by a readvance of the ice, and partially wrought over into their present shape.

It is in New England, also, that kames are to be found in better development than anywhere else in America. These interesting remnants of the Glacial age are clearly described by Mr. James Geikie. His account will serve as well for New England as for Scotland.

The sands and gravels have a tendency to shape themselves into mounds and winding ridges, which give a hummocky and rapidly undulating outline to the ground. Indeed, so characteristic is this appearance, that by it alone we are often able to mark out the boundaries of the deposits with as much precision as we could were all the vegetation and soil stripped away and the various subsoils laid bare. Occasionally, ridges may be tracked continuously for several miles, running like great artificial ramparts across the country. These vary in breadth and height, some of the more conspicuous ones being upward of four or five hundred feet broad at the base, and sloping upward at an angle of twenty-five or even thirty-five degrees, to a height of sixty feet and more above the general surface of the ground. It is most common, however, to find mounds and ridges confusedly intermingled, crossing and recrossing each other at all angles, so as to enclose deep hollows and pits between. Seen from some dominant point, such an assemblage of kames, as they are called, looks like a tumbled sea—the ground now swelling into long undulations, now rising suddenly into beautiful peaks and cones, and anon curving up in sharp ridges that often wheel suddenly round so as to enclose a lakelet of bright clear water.[AZ]

[AZ] The Great Ice Age, pp. 210, 211.

Fig. 29.—Section of kame near Dover, New Hampshire. Length, three hundred feet; height, forty feet; base, about forty feet above the Cocheco River, or seventy-five feet above the sea. a, a, gray clay; b, fine sand; c, c, coarse gravel containing pebbles from six inches to one foot and a half in diameter; d, d, fine gravel (Upham).

Fig. 30.—Kames in Andover Mass.

In New England attention was first directed to kames in 1842, by President Edward Hitchcock, in a paper before the American Association of Geologists and Naturalists, describing the gravel ridges in Andover, Mass. In the accompanying plate is shown a portion of this kame system, which has a double interest to me from the fact that it was while living upon the banks of the Shawshin River, near where the kames and the river intersect, that I began, in 1874, my special study of glacial deposits. The Andover ridges are composed of imperfectly stratified water-worn material, and are very sharply defined, from the town of Chelsea, back from the coast into New Hampshire, for a distance of twenty-five miles. The base of the ridges does not maintain a uniform level, but the system descends into shallow valleys, and rises over elevations of one hundred to two hundred feet, without interruption. This indifference to slight changes of level is specially noticeable where the system crosses the Merrimac River, just above the city of Lawrence. It is also represented in the accompanying plate, where the base of the ridges in the immediate valley of the Shawshin is fifty feet lower than the base of those a short distance to the north, at the points marked a, b, and c. The ridges here terminate at the surface in a sharp angle, and are above their base forty-one feet at a, forty-nine feet at b, and ninety-one feet at c. Between c and b there is an extensive peat-swamp, filling the depression up to the level of an outlet through which the surplus water has found a passage.

Fig. 31.—Longitudinal kames near Hingham, Massachusetts. The parallel ridges of gravel in the foreground run nearly east and west, and coalesce at each end, near the edges of the picture, to form an elongated kettle-hole. The ridges from fifty to sixty feet in height. The kame-stream was here evidently emptying into the ocean a few miles to the east (Bouvé).

Several systems of kames approximately parallel to this have been traced out in Massachusetts and New Hampshire, while the remnants of a very extensive system are found in the Connecticut Valley above the Massachusetts line. But they abound in greatest profusion in the State of Maine, where Professor George H. Stone has plotted them with much care. The accompanying map gives only an imperfect representation of the ramifying systems which he has traced out, and of the extent to which they are independent of the present river-channels. One of the longest of these extends more than one hundred miles, crossing the Penobscot River nearly opposite Grand Lake, and terminating in an extensive delta of gravel and sand in Cherryfield, nearly north of Mount Desert. This is represented on our map by the shaded portion west of the Machias River. Locally these ridges are variously designated as “horsebacks,” “hogbacks,” or “whalebacks,” but that in Andover, Mass., was for some reason called “Indian Ridge.” Nowhere else in the world are these ridges better developed than in New England, except it be in southern Sweden, where they have long been known and carefully mapped.

Fig. 32.—The kames of Maine and southeastern New Hampshire. (Stone.)

The investigations of Mr. W. 0. Crosby upon the composition of till in eastern Massachusetts is sufficiently important in its bearings upon the question of glacial erosion to merit notice at this point.[BA] The object of his investigations was to determine how much of the so-called ground moraine, or till, consisted of material disintegrated by mechanical action, and how much by chemical action. The “residuary clay,” which has arisen from chemical decomposition, would properly be attributed to the disintegrating agencies of preglacial times, while the clay, which is strictly mechanical in its origin, remains to represent the true “grist” or “rock flour” of the Glacial period.

[BA] Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History, vol. xxv (1890), pp. 115-140.

The results of Mr. Crosby’s investigations show that “not more than one-third of the detritus composing the till of the Boston Basin was in existence before the Ice age, and that the remaining two-thirds must be attributed to the mechanical action of the ice-sheet and its accompanying torrents of water. In other words, if we assume the average thickness of the drift as thirty feet, the amount of glacial erosion can scarcely fall below twenty feet. After scraping away the residuary clays and half-decomposed material, the ice-sheet has cut more than an equal depth into the solid rocks.”

Mr. Crosby’s investigations also convinced him that the movement of the till, or ground moraine, underneath the ice was not en masse, but that “it must have experienced differential horizontal movements or flowing, in which, normally, every particle or fragment slipped or was squeezed forward with reference to those immediately below it, the velocity diminishing downward through the friction of the underlying ledges.... The glaciation was not limited to masses which were firmly caught between the ice and the solid ledges, and it was in every case essentially a slipping and not a rolling movement.... These differential horizontal movements mean that the till acted as a lubricant for the ice-sheet; and the clayey element, especially, co-operating in many cases with the pent-up subglacial waters, must have greatly facilitated the onward progress of the ice.” He concludes, therefore, that the onward movement of the vast ice-sheet greatly exceeded that of the main part of the ground moraine, the ice-sheet slipping over the till, the whole being in some degree analogous to that of a great land-slip. “In both cases the progress of a somewhat yielding and mobile mass is facilitated by an underlying clayey layer saturated with water.”

New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania.

West of New England the glacial phenomena over the northern part of the United States are equally marked all the way to the Missouri River, and the boundary-line of the glaciated region can be traced with little difficulty. It emerges from New York Bay on Staten Island and enters New Jersey at Perth Amboy. A well-formed moraine covers the northern part of Staten Island, and upon the mainland marks the boundary from Perth Amboy, around through Raritan, Plainfield, Chatham, Morris, and Hanover, to Rockaway, and thence in a southwesterly direction to Belvidere, on the Delaware River. That portion of New Jersey lying north of this serpentine line of moraine hills is characterised by the presence of transported boulders, by numerous lakes of evident glacial origin, and by every other sign of glacial action, while south of it all these peculiar characteristics are absent. The observant passenger upon the railroad trains between New York and Philadelphia can easily recognise the moraine as it is passed through on the Pennsylvania Railroad at Metuchen and on the Bound Brook Railroad at Plainfield. Near Drakestown, in Morris County, there is a mass of blue limestone measuring, as exposed, thirty-six by thirty feet, and which was quarried for years before discovering that it was a boulder brought with other drift material from many miles to the northwest and lodged here a thousand feet above the sea.

Across Pennsylvania the glacial boundary passes through Northampton, Monroe, Luzerne, Columbia, Sullivan, Lycoming, Tioga, and Potter Counties, where it enters the State of New York, running still in a northwest direction through Allegany and Cattaraugus Counties to the vicinity of Salamanca. Here it turns to the south nearly at a right angle, running southwestward to Chautauqua County and re-entering Pennsylvania in Warren County, and thence passing onward in the same general direction through Crawford, Venango, Mercer, Butler, and Lawrence Counties to the Ohio line in Columbiana County, about ten miles north of the Ohio River.

The occurrence of a well-defined terminal moraine to mark the glacial boundary eastward from Pennsylvania led Professor Lewis and myself, who made the survey of that State in 1880, to be rather too sanguine in our expectations of finding an equally well-marked moraine everywhere along the southern margin of the glaciated area; still, the results are even more interesting than would have been the exact fulfilment of our expectations, since they more fully revealed to us the great complexity of effect which is capable of being brought about by ice-action. Before proceeding farther with the details, therefore, it will be profitable at this point to pause in the narrative and briefly record a few generalisations that have forced themselves into prominence during the years in which field-work has been in progress.

Previous to our explorations in Pennsylvania it had been thought that the indications of ice-action would extend much farther south in the valleys than on the mountains, and this indeed would have been the case if the glaciers in northern Pennsylvania had been of local origin; but our experience very soon demonstrated that the great gathering-place of the snows which produced the glacial movement in northern Pennsylvania could not have been local, but that over the northern part of that State there was distinct evidence of a continental movement of ice whose centre was far beyond the Alleghanies.

For example, we found that the evidences of direct glacial action extended farther south upon the hills and plateaus than they did in the narrow valleys, while everywhere on the very southern border of glacial indications we found boulders that had been brought from the granitic region of northern New York or central Canada. In eastern Pennsylvania we found indeed a terminal moraine more or less distinctly marking the southern border over the highlands. This was more specially true in Northampton and Monroe Counties.

In Northampton County it was very interesting to see long lines of hills, a hundred or more feet in height and lying several hundred feet above the Delaware River, composed entirely of glacial débris, much of which had been brought bodily over the sharp summit of the Blue Ridge, or Kittatinny Mountain, which rises as a continuous wall to the northwest and is everywhere several hundred feet higher than the moraine in Northampton County. The summit of Blue Ridge, also, as far south as the glacial movement extended, shows evident signs of glacial abrasion, some hundreds of feet evidently having been removed by that means, leaving a well-defined shoulder, marking the limits of its southwestern border. Resting upon the summit of the glaciated portion of the Blue Ridge, there are also numerous boulders of Helderberg limestone, which must have been brought from ledges at least five hundred feet lower than the places upon which they now lie.

In Monroe County the terminal moraine marking there the extreme limit of the ice-movement is upon an extensive plateau of Pocono sandstone, about eighteen hundred feet above sea-level, and five or six hundred feet lower than the crest of the Alleghany Mountains, a short distance to the north. The moraine hills are here well marked by the occurrence of circular lakelets and kettle-holes (such as have been described as characteristic of the shores and islands bordering the south of New England); by the occurrence of granitic boulders, which must have been brought from the Adirondacks or Canada; and by the various other indications referred to on a previous page.

As already intimated, the instructive point in our observations is the fact that, between Kittatinny Mountain, in Northampton County, and Pocono plateau, in Monroe County, there is a longitudinal depression, running northeast by southwest, parallel with the ranges of the mountain system, which is here about a thousand feet below the respective ridges on either side. This, therefore, is one of the places where we should have expected a considerable southern extension of the ice, if it had been largely due to local causes. Now, while there is indeed a gradual southern trend down the flanks of the mountain, yet, upon reaching the axis of the valley, there appears at once a very marked change in the character of the deposit, and the influence of powerful streams of water becomes manifest, and it is evident, upon a slight inspection, that we have come upon a line of drainage which sustained a peculiar relation to the continental ice-sheet.

From Stroudsburg, near the Delaware Water-Gap, to Weissport, on the Lehigh River, a distance of about thirty miles, the valley between the mountains is continuous, and the elevation at each end very nearly the same. But about half-way between the two places, near Saylorsburg, there is a river-parting from which the water now runs on the one hand north to Stroudsburg, and thence to the Delaware River, and on the other hand south, through Big and Aquonchichola Creeks, to the Lehigh River. The river-parting is formed by a great accumulation of gravel, whose summit is about two hundred feet above the level of the valleys into which the creeks empty at either end; and there are numerous kettle-holes and lakelets in the vicinity, such as characterize the glacial region in general.

In short, we are, without doubt, here on a well-marked terminal moraine much modified by strong water-action in a valley of glacial drainage. The gravel and boulders are all well water-worn, and the material is of various kinds, including granite boulders from the far north, such as characterise the terminal moraine on the highlands; but the pebbles are not scratched, and the gravel is more or less stratified. It is evident that we are here where a violent stream of water poured forth from that portion of the ice-front which filled this valley, and which found its only outlet in the direction of the Lehigh River. The gravel can be traced in diminishing quantities to the southward, in accordance with this theory, while to the northward there extends a series of gravel ridges, or kames, such as we have shown naturally to owe their origin to the accumulations taking place in ice-channels formed near the front of a glacier as it slowly melts away.

From similar occurrences of vast gravel accumulations in other valleys stretching southward from the glacial margin, we came to expect that, wherever there was an open, line of drainage from the glaciated region southward, the point of intersection between the glacial margin and the drainage valley would be marked by an excessive accumulation of water-worn gravel, diminishing in coarseness and abundance down the valleys in proportion to the distance from the glacial margin.

For example, the Delaware River emerges from the glaciated region at Belvidere, and there are there vast accumulations of gravel rising a hundred or more feet above the present level of the river, while gravel terraces, diminishing in height, mark the river below to tide-water at Trenton. The Lehigh River leaves the glaciated region at Hickory Run, a few miles above Mauch Chunk, but the gorge is so steep that there was little opportunity either for the accumulation of gravel there or for its preservation. Still, the transported gravel and boulders characteristic of the melting floods pouring forth from a glacier, are found lining the banks of the Lehigh all along the lower portion of its course. In the Susquehanna River we have a better example at Beach Haven, in Luzerne County, where there are very extensive accumulations of gravel resting on the true glacial deposits of the valley, and extending down the river in terraces of regularly diminishing height for many miles, and merging into terraces of moderate elevation which line the Susquehanna Valley throughout the rest of its course. Above Beach Haven the gravel deposits in the trough of the river valley are more irregular, and betray the modifying influence of the slowly decaying masses of ice which belonged to the enveloping continental glacier.

Westward from the north fork of the Susquehanna, similar extensive accumulations of gravel occur at the intersection of Fishing Creek in Columbia County, Muncy, Loyalsock, Lycoming, and Pine Creeks in Lycoming County, all tributary to the Susquehanna River, and all evidently being channels through which the melting floods of the ice-sheet brought vast quantities of gravel down to the main stream. Williamsport, on the West Branch of the Susquehanna, is built upon an extensive terrace containing much granitic material, brought down from the glaciated region by Lycoming Creek, when it was flooded with the waters melted from the continental ice-sheet which had here surmounted the Alleghanies and invaded the valley of the Susquehanna.

Analogous deposits of unusual amounts of gravel, occurring in streams flowing southward from the glaciated region, occur at Great Valley, Little Valley, and Steamburg in Cattaraugus County, New York, and at Russelburg and Garland in Warren County, Pennsylvania, also at Titusville and Franklin in Venango County, and at Wampum in Lawrence County, of the same State.

As a rule, Professor Lewis and myself found it more difficult to determine with accuracy the exact point to which the ice extended in the axis of these south-flowing valleys than we did upon the highlands upon either side; and, in looking for the positive indications of direct ice-action in these lines of drainage, we were almost always led up the valley to a considerable distance inside of the line. This arose from our inexperience in interpreting the phenomena, or rather from our inattention to the well-known determining facts in the problem. On further reflection it readily appeared that this was as it should be. The ice-front, instead of extending farther down in a narrow valley than on the adjoining highlands (where they are of only moderate elevation) ought not to extend so far, for the subglacial streams would not only wear away the ice of themselves, but would admit the air into the tunnels formed by them so as to melt the masses both from below and from above, and thus cause a recession of the front. If we had understood this principle at the beginning of our survey, it would have saved us much perplexity and trouble.

A single further illustration of this point will help to an understanding of many references which will hereafter be made to the water deposits which accumulated in the lines of drainage running southward from the glaciated area. At Warren, Pa., Conewango Creek, which is the outlet from Chautauqua Lake, enters the Alleghany River after flowing for a number of miles in a deep valley with moderate slopes. In ascending the creek from Warren, the gravel terraces, which rise twenty-five or thirty feet above high-water mark, rapidly increase in breadth and height, and the pebbles become more and more coarse. After a certain distance the regular terraces begin to give place to irregular accumulations of gravel in ridges and knobs. In the lower portion of the valley no pebbles could be found which were scratched. Up the valley a few miles pebbles were occasionally discovered which showed some slight indications of having been scratched, but which had been subjected to such an amount of abrasion by water-action as almost to erase the scratches. On reaching Ackley’s Station, the stream is found to be cutting through a regular terminal moraine, extending across the valley and full of clearly marked glaciated stones. Above this terminal moraine the terraces and gravel ridges which had characterised the valley below disappear, giving place to long stretches of level and swampy land, which had been subject to overflow.

Something similar to this so often appears, that there can be no question as to its meaning, which is, that during the farthest extent of the ice the front rested for a considerable period of time along the line marked by the terminal moraine. During this period there occurred both the accumulation of the moraine and of the gravel terraces in the valley below, due to the vast flow of water emerging from the ice-front, especially during the period when it was most rapidly melting away. Upon the retreat of the ice, the moraine constituted a dam which has not yet been wholly worn away. For a while the water was so effectually ponded back by this as to form a lake, which has since become filled up with sediment and accumulations of peat. From this it is evident, also, that when the ice began to retreat, the retreat was so continuous and rapid that no parallel terminal moraines were formed for many miles.

Before leaving this section we will summarise the leading facts concerning the glacial phenomena north of Pennsylvania and New Jersey. From the observations of Professor Smock, it appears that, from the southern margin the ascent to the summit of the ice-sheet was pretty rapid; the depth one mile back from the margin being not much less than a thousand feet. “Northward the angle of the slope diminished, and the glacier surface approximated to a great level plain. The distance between the high southwestern peaks of the Catskills and Pocono Knob in Pennsylvania is sixty miles. The difference in the elevation of the glacier could not have exceeded a thousand feet,” [BB] that is, the slope of the surface was about seventeen feet to the mile.

[BB] American Journal of Science, vol. cxxv, 1883, p. 339 et seq.

Professor Dana estimates the thickness of the ice in southern Connecticut to have been between fifteen hundred and two thousand feet. Attempts to calculate the thickness of the ice farther north, except from actual discovery of glacial action on the summits of the mountains, are based upon uncertain data with reference to the slope necessary to secure glacial movement. In the Alps the lowest mean slopes down which glaciers move are about two hundred and fifty feet to a mile; but in Greenland, Jensen found the slope of the Frederickshaab Glacier to be only seventy-five feet to the mile, while Helland found that of the Jakobshavn Glacier to be only forty-five feet.

It is doubtful if even that amount is necessary to secure a continental movement of ice, since, as already remarked, it is unsafe to draw inferences concerning the movements of large masses of ice from those of smaller masses in more constricted areas. We have seen, from the glacial deposits on the top of Mount Washington, that over the northern part of New England the ice was more than a mile in depth. We have no direct evidence of the depth of the stream which surrounded the Adirondack Mountains. Nor, on the other hand, are we certain that the Catskills were not completely enveloped in ice, though most observers, reasoning from negative evidence, have supposed that to be the case. But from the facts stated concerning the boulders along the glacial boundary in Pennsylvania, it is certain that the ice was deep enough to surmount the ridge of the Alleghanies where they are two thousand and more feet in height. At the least calculation the ice must have been five hundred feet thick, in order to secure the movement of which there is evidence across the Appalachian range. Supposing this to be the height of the ice above the sea on the crest of the Alleghanies, and that the slope of the surface of the ice-sheet was as moderate as Professor Smock has estimated it (namely seventeen feet to the mile), the ice would be upwards of six thousand feet in thickness in the latitude of the Adirondacks, which corresponds closely with the positive evidence Ave have from the mountains in New England.

A study of the map of New York will make it easy to understand the distribution of some interesting glacial marks over the State. The distance along the Hudson from the glacial boundary in the vicinity of New York to the valley of the Mohawk is about one hundred and sixty miles. Prom the glacial boundary at Salamanca, N. Y., to the same valley, is not over eighty miles. It is easy to see, therefore, that when, in advancing, the ice moved southward past the Adirondacks, the east end of the valley of the Mohawk was reached and closed by the ice, while at the west end of Lake Ontario the ice-front was still in Canada. Thus the drainage, which naturally followed the course of the St. Lawrence, would first be turned through the Mohawk. Afterwards, when the Mohawk had been closed by ice, the vast amount of ponded water was compelled to seek a temporary outlet over the lower passages leading into the Susquehanna or into the Alleghany.

A number of such passages exist. One can be traced along the line of the old canal from Utica to Binghamton, whose highest level is not far from eleven hundred feet. Another lies in a valley leading south of Cayuga Lake, whose highest point, at Wilseyville, is nine hundred and forty feet above tide. Another leads south to the Chemung River from Seneca Lake, whose highest point, at Horseheads, is less than nine hundred feet above tide. The cols farther west are somewhat more elevated; the one at Portage, leading from the Genesee River into the Canisteo, being upwards of thirteen hundred feet, and that of Dayton, leading from Cattaraugus Creek into the Conewango, being about the same. Of other southern outlets farther west we will speak later on.

Fixing our minds now upon the region under consideration, in the southern part of the State of New York, we can readily see that a glacial lake must have existed in front of the ice while it was advancing, until it had reached the river-partings between the Mohawk and the St. Lawrence Rivers on the north and the Susquehanna and Alleghany Rivers on the south. After the ice had attained its maximum extension, and was in process of retreat, there would be a repetition of the phenomena, only they would occur in the reverse order. The glacial markings which we see are, of course, mainly those produced during the general retreat of the ice.

The Susquehanna River stretching out its arms—the Chenango and Chemung Rivers—to the east and the west, evidently serves as a line of drainage for the vast glacial floods. These floods have left, along their courses, extensive elevated gravel terraces, with much material in them which is not local, but which has been washed out of the direct glacial deposits from the far north. The east-and-west line of the water-parting throughout the State is characterised by excessive accumulations of glaciated material, forming something like a terminal moraine, and is designated by President Chamberlin as “the terminal moraine of the second Glacial epoch,” corresponding, as he thinks, to the interior line already described as characterising the south shore of New England.

In the central part of New York the remarkable series of “Finger Lakes,” tributary to Lake Ontario and emptying into it through the Oswego and Genesee Rivers, all have a glacial origin. Probably, however, they are not due in any great degree to glacial erosion, but they seem to occupy north-and-south valleys which had been largely formed by streams running towards the St. Lawrence when there was, by some means (probably through the Mohawk River), a much deeper outlet than now exists, but which has been filled up and obliterated by glacial débris. The ice-movement naturally centred itself more or less in these north-and-south valleys, and hence somewhat enlarged them, but probably did not deepen them. The ice, however, did prevent them from becoming filled with sediment, and on its final retreat gave place to water.

Between these lakes and Lake Ontario, also, and extending east and west nearly all the way from Syracuse to Rochester, there is a remarkable series of hills, from one hundred to two or three hundred feet in height, composed of glacial débris. But while the range extends east and west, the axis of the individual hills lies nearly north and south. These are probably remnants of a morainic accumulation which were made during a pause in the first advance of the ice, and were finally sculptured into their present shape by the onward movement of the ice. These are really “drumlins,” similar to those already described in northeastern Massachusetts and southeastern New Hampshire. In the valley of central New York these have determined the lines of drainage of the “Finger Lakes,” and formed dams across the natural outlets of nearly all of them.

North of the State of New York the innumerable lakes in Canada are all of glacial origin, being mostly due to depressions of the nature of kettle-holes, or to the damming up of old outlets by glacial deposits. A pretty well-marked line of moraine hills, formed probably as terminal deposits in the later stages of the Ice age, runs from near the eastern end of Lake Ontario to the Georgian Bay, passing south of Lake Simcoe.

The Mississippi Basin.

The physical geography of the glaciated region north of the Ohio River is so much simpler than that of New England and the Middle States, that its characteristics can be briefly stated. Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois are covered with nearly parallel strata of rock mostly of the Carboniferous age. In general, the surface slopes gently to the west; the average elevation of Ohio being about a thousand feet above tide, while that of the Great Lakes to the north and of the middle portion of the Mississippi Valley is less than six hundred feet. The glacial deposits are spread in a pretty even sheet over the area which was reached by the ice in these States, and the lines of moraine, of which a dozen or more have been partially traced in receding order, are much less clearly marked than they are in New England, or in Michigan, and the States farther to the northwest.

The line marking the southern limit attained by the ice of the Glacial period in these three States is as follows: Entering Ohio in Columbiana County, about ten miles north of the Ohio River, the glacial boundary runs westward through New Lisbon to Canton in Stark County, and thence to Millersburg in Holmes County. A few miles west of this place it turns abruptly south, passing through Danville in Knox County, Newark in Licking County, Lancaster in Fairfield County, to Adelphi in Ross County. Thence bearing more westward it passes through Chillicothe to southeastern Highland County and northwestern Adams, reaching the Ohio River near Ripley, in Clermont County. Thence, following the north bank of the Ohio River to Cincinnati, it crosses the river, and after extending through the northern part of Boone County, Kentucky, and recrossing the river to Indiana, not far from Rising Sun, it again follows approximately the north bank of the river to within about ten miles of Louisville, Ky., where it bends northward running through Clarke, Scott, Jackson, Bartholomew, and Brown Counties to Martinsville, in Morgan County, where it turns again west and south and follows approximately the West Branch of the White River through Owen, Greene, and Knox Counties, where it crosses the main stream of White River, and, continuing through Gibson and Posey Counties, crosses the Wabash River near New Harmony.

In Illinois the line still continues southwesterly through White, Gallatin, Saline, and Williamson Counties, where it reaches its southern limit near Carbondale, in latitude 37° 40’, and from this point trends northwestward, approximately following the northeastern bluff of the Mississippi River, to the vicinity of Carondelet, Mo., a short distance south of St. Louis.

Beyond the Mississippi the line follows approximately the course of the Missouri River across Missouri, and continues westward to the vicinity of Manhattan, in Kansas, where it turns northward, keeping about a hundred miles west of the Missouri River, through eastern Kansas and Nebraska, and striking the river near the mouth of the Niobrara, in South Dakota. From there the line follows approximately the course of the Missouri River to the vicinity of Fort Benton, in northwestern Montana, where the line again bears more northward, running into British America.

It is still in dispute whether the ice extended from the eastern centre far enough west to join the ice-movement from the Rocky Mountain plateau. Dr. George M. Dawson[BC] is of the opinion that it did not, but that there was a belt of a hundred miles or more, east of the Rocky Mountains, which was never covered by true glacial ice. Mr. Upham[BD] is equally confident that the two ice-movements became confluent, and united upon the western plateau of Manitoba. The opportunity for such a difference of opinion arises in the difficulty sometimes encountered of distinguishing between a direct glacial deposit and a deposit taking place in water containing boulder-laden icebergs. Where Mr. Upham supposes the ice-fields of the east and of the west to have been confluent in western Manitoba, Dr. Dawson supposes there was an extensive subsidence of the land sufficient to admit the waters of the ocean. Leaving this question for the present undetermined, we will now rapidly summarise the glacial phenomena west of the third meridian from Washington (which corresponds nearly with the western boundary of Pennsylvania), and east of the Rocky Mountains.

[BC] Transactions of the Royal Society of Canada, vol. viii, sec. iv, pp. 54-74.

[BD] American Geologist, vol. vi, September, 1890; Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. ii, pp. 243-276.

That the glacial movement extended to the southern boundary just delineated is established by the presence down to that line of all the signs of glacial action, and their absence beyond. Glacial groovings are found upon the freshly uncovered rock surfaces at frequent intervals in close proximity to the line all along its course, while granitic boulders from the far north are scattered, with more or less regularity, over the whole intervening space between this line and the Canadian highlands. I have already referred to a boulder of jasper conglomerate found in Boone County, Kentucky, which must have come from unique outcroppings of this rock north of Lake Huron. Granitic boulders from the Lake Superior region are also found in great abundance at the extreme margin mentioned in southern Illinois. West of the Missouri River it is somewhat more difficult to delineate the boundary with accuracy, on account of an enveloping deposit of fine loam, technically called “loess.” Loess is very abundant in the whole valley of the Missouri River below Yankton, South Dakota, being for a long distance in the vicinity of the river a hundred feet or more in depth. Over northern Missouri and southern Illinois the deposit is nearly continuous, but less in depth, and everywhere in that region tends to hide from view the unstratified glacial deposit continuously underlying it.

A single instance of personal experience will illustrate the condition of things. While going south from Chicago, in search of the southern limit of glacial action, I stopped off from the train at Du Quoin, about forty miles north of where I subsequently found the boundary. Here the whole surface was covered with loess, two or three feet in depth. Below this was a gravelly soil, three or four feet in thickness, which contained many scratched pebbles of granite. A well which had recently been dug, reached the rock at a depth of twenty feet, and revealed a beautifully polished and scratched surface, betraying, beyond question, the action of glacial ice. As we shall show a little later, it is probable that, about the time the ice of the Glacial period had reached its maximum development, this area, which is covered with loess, was depressed in level, and remained under water during a considerable portion of the period when the ice-front was retreating.

Fig. 33.—Western face of the kettle-moraine, near Eagle, Waukesha County, Wisconsin. (From a photograph by President T. C. Chamberlain, United States Geological Survey.)

To such an extent is this portion of the area included in southern Iowa, northern Missouri, southern Illinois, and the extreme southern portions of Indiana and Ohio covered with loess, that it has been difficult to determine the relation of its underlying glacial deposits to the more irregular deposits found farther north. At an early period of recent investigations, while making a geological survey of the State of Wisconsin, President T. C. Chamberlin fixed upon the line of moraine hills, which can be seen upon [our map], running southward between Green Bay and Lake Michigan, and sweeping around in a curve to the right, passing south of Madison and northward along the line of Wisconsin River, and in another curve to the left, around the southern end of Lake Michigan, as the “terminal moraine of the second Glacial epoch.” In Wisconsin the character of this line of moraine hills had been discovered and described by Colonel Charles Whittlesey, in 1866. It was first named the “kettle-moraine,” because of the frequent occurrence in it of “kettle-holes.” This line of moraine hills has been traced with a great degree of confidence across the entire glaciated area, as shown upon our map, but it is not everywhere equally distinct, and, as will be observed, follows a very irregular course.

Beginning in Ohio we find it coinciding nearly with the extreme glacial boundary until it reaches the valley of the Scioto River, on the sixth meridian west from Washington, where it begins to bear northward and continues in that direction for a distance of sixty or seventy miles, and then turns southward again in the valley of the Miami, having formed between these two valleys a sort of medial moraine.[BE] A similar medial moraine had also been noted by President Chamberlin between the valleys of the Grand and Cuyahoga Rivers, in the eastern part of Ohio. Indeed, for the whole distance across Ohio and Indiana, this moraine occurs in a series of loops pointing to the south, corresponding in general to the five gentle valleys which mark the territory, namely, those of the Grand and Mahoning Rivers; the Sandusky and Scioto Rivers; the Great Miami River; the White River; and the Maumee and Wabash Rivers. Everywhere, however, over this area these morainic accumulations approximate pretty closely to the extreme boundary of the glaciated region.

[BE] See [map] at the beginning of the chapter.

In Illinois President Chamberlin’s original determination of the moraine fixed it near the southern end of Lake Michigan, as shown upon our map, but Mr. Frank Leverett has subsequently demonstrated that there is a concentric series of moraines south of this, reaching across the State, (but somewhat obscured by superficial accumulations of loess referred to) and extending nearly to the latitude of St. Louis.

West of Wisconsin President Chamberlin’s “terminal moraine of the second Glacial epoch” bends southward through eastern Minnesota, and, sweeping down through central Iowa, forms, near the middle of the northern part of that State, a loop, having its southern extremity in the vicinity of Des Moines. The western arm of this loop runs through Minnesota in a northwesterly direction nearly parallel with the upper portion of the valley of the Minnesota, until reaching the latitude of the head-waters of that river, where, in the vicinity of the Sisseton Agency, in Dakota, it turns to the south by an acute angle, and makes a loop in that State, extending to the vicinity of Yankton, and with the valley of the James River as its axis. The western arm of this loop follows pretty closely the line of the eastern edge of the trough of the Missouri River, constituting what is called the “Missouri Coteau,” which continues on as a well-marked line of hills running in a northwesterly direction far up into the Dominion of Canada.

One of the most puzzling glacial phenomena in the Mississippi Valley is the driftless area which occupies the southeastern portion of Minnesota, the southwestern part of Wisconsin, and the northwestern corner of Iowa, as delineated upon our map. This is an area which, while being surrounded on every side by all the characteristic marks of glaciation, is itself conspicuous for their entire absence. Its rocks preserve no glacial scratches and are covered by no deposits of till, while northern boulders avoided it in their journey to more southern latitudes.

The reason for all this is not evident in the topography of the region. The land is not higher than that to the north of it, nor is there any manifest protection to it by the highlands south of Lake Superior. Nor yet is there any reason to suppose that any extensive changes of level in former times seriously affected its relations to the surrounding country. Professor Dana, however, has called attention to the fact that even now it is in a region of comparatively light precipitation, suggesting that the snow-fall over it may always have been insignificant in amount. But this could scarcely account for the failure of the great ice-wave of the north to overrun it. We are indebted again to the sagacity of President Chamberlin in suggesting the true explanation.

By referring to the map it will be noticed that this area sustains a peculiar relation to the troughs of Lake Michigan and Lake Superior, while from the arrangements of the moraines in front of these lakes it will be seen that these lake basins were prominent factors in determining the direction of the movement of the surplus ice from the north. It is the more natural that they should do so because of their great depth, their bottoms being in both cases several hundred feet below the present water-level, reaching even below the level of the sea.

These broad, deep channels seem to have furnished the readiest outlet for the surplus ice of the North, and so to have carried both currents of ice beyond this driftless area before they became again confluent. The slight elevation south of Lake Superior served to protect the area on account of the feebleness of direct movement made possible by the strength of these diverging lateral ice-currents. The phenomenon is almost exactly what occurs where a slight obstruction in a river causes an eddy and preserves a low portion of land below it from submergence. A glance at the map will make it easily credible that an ice-movement south of Manitoba, becoming confluent with one from Lake Superior, pushed far down into the Missouri Valley and spread eastward to the Mississippi River, south of the unglaciated driftless area, and there became confluent with a similar movement which had been directed by the valleys of Lake Michigan and Lake Erie. There can be little doubt that President Chamberlin’s explanation is in the main correct, and we have in this another illustration of the analogy between the behaviour of moving ice and that of moving water.

Fig. 34.—Section of the east-and-west glacial furrows, on Kelly’s Island, preserved by Mr. Younglove. Fine sediment rests immediately on the rock, with washed pebbles at the surface.

The accompanying illustrations will give a better idea than words can do of the celebrated glacial grooves on the hard limestone islands near Sandusky, in the western part of Lake Erie. Through the interest aroused in them by an excursion of the American Association for the Advancement of Science, while meeting in Cleveland, Ohio, in 1888, the Kelly Island Lime and Transport Company, of which Mr. M. C. Younglove is the president, has been induced to deed to the Western Reserve Historical Society for preservation a portion of one of the most remarkable of the grooves still remaining.

The portion of the groove preserved is thirty-three feet across, and the depth of the cut in the rock is seventeen feet below the line, extending from rim to rim. Originally there was probably here a small depression formed by preglacial water erosion, into which the ice crowded the material, which became its graving-tool, and so the rasping and polishing went on in increasing degree until this enormous furrow is the result. The groove, however, is by no means simple, but presents a series of corrugations merging into each other by beautiful curves. When exposed for a considerable length it will resemble nothing else so much as a collection of prostrate Corinthian columns lying side by side on a concave surface.

The direction of these grooves is a little south of west, corresponding to that of the axis of the lake. This is nearly at right angles to the course of the ice-scratches on the summit of the water-shed south of this, between the lake and the Ohio River. The reason for this change of direction can readily be seen by a little attention to the physical geography. The highlands to the south of the lake rise about seven hundred feet above it. When the Ice period was at its climax and overran these highlands, the ice took its natural course at right angles to the terminal moraine and flowed southeast according to the direction indicated by the scratches on the summit; but when the supply of ice was not sufficient to overrun the highlands, the obstruction in front turned the course and the resultant was a motion towards Toledo and the Maumee Valley, where in the vicinity of Fort Wayne an extensive terminal moraine was formed.

Fig. 35.—Same as the preceding. (Courtesy of M. C. Younglove.)

The much-mooted question of a succession of glacial epochs finds the most of its supporting facts in the portion of the glaciated area lying west of Pennsylvania. That there have been frequent oscillations of the glacial front over this area is certain. But it is a question whether the glacial deposits south of this distinct line of moraine hills are so different from those to the north of it as to necessitate the supposition of two entirely distinct glacial epochs. This can be considered most profitably here.

The following are among the points with reference to which the phenomena south of the moraine just delineated differ from those north of the line:

1. The glacial deposits to the south appear to be distributed more uniformly than those to the north. To the north the drift is often accumulated in hills, and is dotted over with kettle-holes, while to the south these are pretty generally absent. Any one travelling upon a line of railroad which traverses these two portions of the glaciated area as indicated upon our map can easily verify these statements.

2. The amount of glacial erosion seems to be much less south of the line of moraine hills delineated than north of them. Still, glacial striæ are found, almost everywhere, close down to the extreme margin of the glaciated area.

3. The gravel deposits connected with the drainage of the Glacial period are much less abundant south of the so-called “terminal moraine of the second Glacial period” than they are north of it. South of this moraine the water deposits attributed to the Glacial period are of such fine silt as to indicate slow-moving currents over a gentle low slope of the surface.

4. The glacial deposits to the south are more deeply coloured than those to the north, showing that they have been longer exposed to oxidising agencies. Even the granitic boulders show the marks of greater age south of this line, being disintegrated to a greater extent than those to the north.

5. And, finally, there occur, over a wide belt bordering the so-called moraine hills of the second Glacial epoch, extensive intercalated beds of vegetal deposits. Among the earliest of these to be discovered were those of Montgomery County, Ohio, where, in 1870, Professor Orton, of the Ohio Survey, found at Germantown a deposit of peat fourteen feet thick underneath ninety-five feet of till, and there seem also to be glacial deposits underneath the peat as well as over it. The upper portion of the peat contains “much undecomposed sphagnous mosses, grasses, and sedges, and both the peat and the clayey till above it” contain many fragments of coniferous wood which can be identified as red cedar (Juniperus Virginianus). In numerous other places in that portion of Ohio fresh-appearing logs, branches, and twigs of wood are found underneath the till, or mingled with it, much as boulders are. Near Darrtown, in Butler County, Ohio, red cedar logs were found under a covering of sixty-five feet of till, and so fresh that the perfume of the wood is apparently as strong as ever. Similar facts occur in several other counties in the glaciated area of southern Ohio and southern Indiana. Professor Collett reports that all over southwestern Indiana peat, muck, rotted stumps, branches, and leaves of trees are found from sixty to one hundred and twenty feet below the surface, and that these accumulations sometimes occur to a thickness of from two to twenty feet.

Fig. 36.—Section of till near Germantown, Ohio, overlying thick bed of peat. The man in the picture stands upon a shelf of peat from which the till has been eroded by the stream. The dark spot at the right hand of the picture, just above the water, is an exposure of the peat. The thickness of the till is ninety-five feet. The partial stratification spoken of in the text can be seen about the middle of the picture. The furrows up and down had been made by recent rains. (United States Geological Survey.) (Wright.)

Farther to the northwest similar phenomena occur. Professor N. H. Winchell has described them most particularly in Fillmore and Mower Counties, Minnesota, from which they extend through a considerable portion of Iowa. In the above counties of Minnesota a stratum of peat from eighteen inches to six or eight feet in thickness, with much wood, is pretty uniformly encountered in digging wells, the depth varying from twenty to fifty feet. This county is near the highest divide in the State of Minnesota, and from it “flow the sources of the streams to the north, south, and east.” The wood encountered in this stratum indicates the prevalence f coniferous trees, and the peat mosses indicate a cool and moist climate.

Nor are intercalated vegetable deposits absent from the vast region farther north over the area that drains into Hudson Bay. At Barnesville, in Clay County, Minnesota, which lies in the valley of the Red River of the North, and also in Wilkin County in the same valley, tamarack wood and sandy black mud containing many snail-shells have been found from eight to twelve feet below a surface of till; and Dr. Robert Bell reports the occurrence of limited deposits of lignite between layers of till, far to the northwest, in Canada, and even upon the southern part of Hudson Bay; while Mr. J. B. Tyrrell reports[BF] many indications of successive periods of glaciation near the northern end of the Duck Mountain. The most characteristic indications which he had witnessed consisted of stratified beds of silt, containing fresh-water shells, with fragments of plants and fish similar to those living in the lakes of the region at the present time.

[BF] Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. i, pp. 395-410.

Reviewing these facts with reference to their bearing upon the point under consideration, we grant, at the outset, that they do indicate a successive retreat and readvance of the ice over extensive areas. This is specially clear with respect to the vegetal deposits interstratified with beds of glacial origin. But the question at issue concerning the interpretation of these phenomena is, Do they necessarily indicate absolutely distinct glacial epochs separated by a period in which the ice had wholly disappeared from the glaciated area to the north? That they do, is maintained by President Chamberlin and many others who have wide acquaintance with the facts. That they do not certainly indicate a complete disappearance of the ice during an extensive interglacial epoch, is capable, however, of being maintained, without forfeiting one’s rights to the respect of his fellow-geologists. The opposite theory is thus stated by Dr. Robert Bell: “It appears as if all the phenomena might be referred to one general Glacial period, which was long continued, and consequently accompanied by varying conditions of temperature, regional oscillations of the surface, and changes in the distributions of sea and land, and in the currents in the ocean. These changes would necessarily give rise to local variations in the climate, and might permit of vegetation for a time in regions which need not have been far removed from extensive glaciers.”[BG]

[BG] Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. i, pp. 287-310.

At my request, Professor J. E. Todd, of Iowa, whose acquaintance with the region is extensive, has kindly written out for me his conclusions upon this subject, which I am permitted to give in his own words:

“I am not prepared to write as I would like concerning the forest-beds and old soils. I will, however, offer the following as a partial report. I have come to think that there is considerable confusion on the subject. I believe there are five or six different things classed under one head.

“1. Recent Much and Soils.—The finest example I have found in the whole Missouri Valley was twenty feet below silt and clay, in a basin inside the outer moraine, near Grand View, South Dakota. From my examination of the reported old soil near Albia, Iowa, I think the most rational way of reconciling the conflicting statements concerning it is that it also belongs to this class.

“2. Peat or Soil under Loess.—This does not signify much if the loess was formed in a lake subject to orographic oscillations, or if, as I am coming to believe, it is a fluviatile deposit of an oscillating river like the Hoang-Ho on the great Chinese plain. It at least does not mean an interglacial epoch.

“3. Wood and Dirt rearranged, not in situ.—This occurs either in subaqueous or in subglacial deposits. I have found drift-wood in the lower layers of the loess here, but not in situ. I have frequently found traces of wood in till in Dakota, but always in an isolated way. I think, from reading statements about the deposits in eastern Iowa, that most if not all of the cases are of this sort. Two things have conspired to lead to this error: one, the influence of Croll’s speculation; and the other, the easy inference of many well-diggers, and especially well-borers, that what they pass through are always in layers. In this way a log becomes a forest-bed. Scattered logs and muck fragments occurring frequently in a region, though at different levels, are readily imagined by an amateur geologist to be one continuous stratum antedating the glacier or floods (as the case may be in that particular region), when, in fact, it has been washed down from the margin of the transporting agent and is contemporaneous with it. I suspect the prevalence of wood in eastern Iowa may be traced to a depression of the driftless region during the advance of the glacier, so as to bring the western side of that area more into the grasp of glacial agencies.

“4. Peat between Subglacial Tills.—If cases of this sort are found, they are in Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio. Professor Worthen insisted that there were no interglacial soils or forest-beds in Illinois; and in the cases mentioned in the State reports he repeatedly explains the sections given by his assistants, so as to harmonize them with that statement. I think he usually makes his explanations plausible. He was very confident in referring most of them, to preglacial times. His views, I suppose, will be published in the long-delayed volume, now about to be issued.

“5. Vegetable Matter between Glacial Till and Underlying Berg Till or other Drift Deposits.—When one remembers that the front of the great ice-sheet may have been as long in reaching its southern boundary as in receding from it, and with as many advance and retrograde movements, we can easily believe that much drift material would have outrun the ice and have formed deposits so far ahead of it that vegetation would have grown before the ice arrived to bury it.

“6. Preglacial Soils, etc.—I believe that this will be found to include most in southern Ohio, if not in Illinois, as Worthen claimed.”

The phenomena of the Glacial period are too vast either to have appeared or to have disappeared suddenly. By whatever cause the great accumulation of ice was produced, the advance to the southward must have been slow and its disappearance must have been gradual, though, as we shall show a little later, the final retreat of the ice-front occupied but a short time relatively to the whole period which has elapsed since. As we shall show also, the advent of the Ice period was probably preceded and accompanied by a considerable elevation of the northern part of the continent Whether this elevation was contemporaneous upon both sides of the continent is perhaps an open question; but with reference to the area east of the Rocky Mountains, which is now under consideration, the centre of elevation was somewhere south of Hudson Bay. Putting together what we know, from the nature of the case, concerning the accumulation and movement of glacial ice, and what we know from the relics of the great glacial invasion, which have enabled us to determine its extent and the vigour of its action, the course of events seems to have been about as follows:

Throughout the Tertiary period a warm climate had prevailed over British America, Greenland, and indeed over all the lands in proximity to the north pole, so far as explorers have been able to penetrate them. The vegetation characterizing these regions during the Tertiary period indicates a temperature about like that which now prevails in North Carolina and Virginia. Whatever may be said in support of the theory that the Glacial period was produced by astronomical causes, in view of present facts those causes cannot be regarded as predominant; at most they were only co-operative. The predominant cause of the Glacial period was probably a late Tertiary or post-Tertiary elevation of the northern part of the continents, accompanied with a subsidence in the central portion. Of such a subsidence in the Isthmus of Panama indications are thought to be afforded by the occurrence of late Tertiary or, more probably, post-Tertiary sea-shells at a considerable elevation on the divide along the Isthmus of Panama, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Of this we shall speak more fully in a later chapter.

Fixing our thoughts upon what is known as the Laurentian plateau, which, though now in the neighbourhood of but two thousand feet above the sea, was then much higher, we can easily depict in imagination the beginnings of the great “Laurentide Glacier,” which eventually extended to the margin already delineated on the south and southwest in the United States, and spread northward and eastward over an undetermined area. Year after year and century after century the accumulating snows over this elevated region consolidated into glacial ice and slowly pushed outward the surplus reservoirs of cold. For a long time this process of ice-accumulation may have been accompanied by the continued elevation of the land, which, together with the natural effect of the enlarging area of ice and snow, would tend to lower the temperature around the margin and to increase still more the central area of accumulation.

The vigour of movement in any direction was determined partly by the shape of the valleys opening southward in which the ice-streams would naturally concentrate, and partly by those meteorological conditions which determine the extent of snow-fall over the local centres of glacial dispersion. For example, the general map of North America in the Ice period indicates that there were two marked subcentres of dispersion for the great Laurentide Glacier, the eastern one being in Labrador and the western one north of Lake Superior. In a general way the southern boundary of the glaciated region in the United States presents the appearance of portions of two circumferences of circles intersecting each other near the eastern end of Lake Erie. These circles, I am inclined to believe, represent the areas over which a semi-fluid (or a substance like ice, which flows like a semi-fluid) would disperse itself from the subcentres above mentioned.

A study of the contour of the country shows that that also, in a general way, probably had something to do with the lines of dispersion. The western lobe of this glaciated area corresponds in its boundary pretty closely with the Mississippi Valley, having the Ohio River approximately as its eastern arm and the Missouri as its western, with the Mississippi River nearly in its north and south axis. The eastern lobe has its farthest extension in the axis of the Champlain and Hudson River Valleys, its western boundary being thrown more and more northward as the line proceeds to the west over the Alleghany Mountains until reaching the longitude of the eastern end of Lake Erie; but this southern boundary is by no means a water-level, nor is the contour of the country such that it could ever have been a water-level. But it conforms in nearly every particular to what would be the resultant arising from a pretty general southward flow of a semi-fluid from the two subcentres mentioned, meeting with the obstructions of the Adirondacks in northern New York and of the broader Appalachian uplift in northern Pennsylvania.

How far south the area of glacial accumulation may have extended cannot be definitely ascertained, but doubtless at an early period of the great Ice age the northern portions of the Appalachian range in New York, New England, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia became themselves centres of dispersion, while only at the height of the period did all their glaciers become confluent, so that there was one continuous ice-sheet.

In the western portion of the area covered by the Laurentide Glacier, the depression occupied by the Great Lakes, especially Lakes Michigan and Superior, evidently had a marked influence in directing the flow of ice during the stages which were midway between the culmination of the Ice period and both its beginning and its end. This would follow from the great depth of these lakes, the bottom of Lake Michigan being 286 feet below sea-level, and that of Lake Superior 375 feet, making a total depth of water of about 900 and 1,000 feet respectively. Into these oblong depressions the ice would naturally gravitate until they were filled, and they would become the natural channels of subsequent movement in the direction of their longest diameters, while the great thickness of ice in them would make them the conservative centres of glacial accumulation and action after the ice had begun to retreat.

These deductions from the known nature of ice and the known topography of the region are amply sustained by a study of the detailed map showing the glacial geology in the United States. But on this we can represent indeed only the marks left by the ice at various stages of its retreat, since, as already remarked, the marks of each stage of earlier advance would be obliterated by later forward movements. We may presume, however, that in general the marks left by the retreating ice correspond closely with those actually made and obliterated by the advancing movement.

From observations upon the glaciers of Switzerland and of Alaska, it is found that neither the advance nor the retreat of these glaciers is constant, but that, in obedience to meteorologic agencies not fully understood, they advance and retreat in alternate periods, at one time receding for a considerable distance, and at other times regaining the lost ground and advancing over the area which has been uncovered by their retreat.

“M. Forel reports, from the data which he has collected with much care, that there have been in this century five periods in the Alpine glaciers: of enlargement, from 1800 (?) to 1815; of diminution, from 1815 to 1830; of enlargement, from 1830 to 1845; of diminution, from 1845 to 1875; and of enlargement again, from 1875 onward. He remarks further that these periods correspond with those deduced by Mr. C. Lang for the variations for the precipitations and temperature of the air; and, consequently, that the enlargement of the glaciers has gone forward in the cold and rainy period, and the diminution in the warm and the dry.”[BH]

[BH] American Journal of Science, vol. cxxxii, 1886, p. 77.

When, now, we attentively consider the combination of causes necessary to produce the climatic conditions of the great Ice age of North America, we shall be prepared to find far more extensive variations in the progress of the continental glacier, both during its advance and during its retreat, than are to be observed in any existing local glaciers.

With respect to the arguments adduced in favor of a succession of glacial epochs in America the following criticisms are pertinent:

1. So far as we can estimate, a temporary retreat of the front, lasting a few centuries, would be sufficient to account for the vegetable accumulations that are found buried beneath the glacial deposits in southern Ohio, Indiana, central Illinois, and Iowa, while a temporary readvance of the ice would be sufficient to bury the vegetable remains beneath a freshly accumulated mass of till. Thus, as Dr. Bell suggested, the interglacial vegetal deposits do not necessarily indicate anything more than a temporary oscillation of the ice-front, and do not carry with them the necessity of supposing a disappearance of the ice from the whole glaciated area. Thus the introduction of a whole Glacial period to account for such limited phenomena is a violation of the well-known law of parsimony, which requires us in our explanations of phenomena to be content with the least cause which is sufficient to produce them. In the present instance a series of comparatively slight oscillations of the ice-front during a single glacial period would seem to be sufficient to account for all the buried forests and masses of vegetal débris that occur either in the United States or in the Dominion of Canada.

2. Another argument for the existence of two absolutely distinct glacial periods in North America has been drawn from the greater oxidation of the clays and the more extensive disintegration of certain classes of the boulders found over the southern part of the glaciated area of the Mississippi Valley, than has taken place in the more northerly regions. Without questioning this statement of fact (which, however, I believe to be somewhat exaggerated), it is not difficult to see that the effects probably are just what would result from a single long glacial period brought about by such causes as we have seen to be probably in operation in America. For if one reflects upon the conditions existing when the Glacial period began, he will see that, during the long ages of warm climate which characterised the preceding period, the rocks must have been extensively disintegrated through the action of subaërial agencies. The extent to which this disintegration takes place can be appreciated now only by those who reside outside of the glaciated area, where these agencies have been in uninterrupted action. In the Appalachian range south of the glaciated region the granitic masses and strata of gneiss are sometimes found to be completely disintegrated to a depth of fifty or sixty feet; and what seem to be beds of gravel often prove in fact to be horizontal strata of gneiss from which the cementing material has been removed by the slow action of acids brought down by the percolating water.

Now, there can be no question that this process of disintegration had proceeded to a vast extent before the Glacial period, so that, when the ice began to advance, there was an enormous amount of partially oxidised and disintegrated material ready to be scraped off with the first advance of ice, and this is the material which would naturally be transported farthest to the south; and thus, on the theory of a single glacial period, we can readily account for the greater apparent age of the glacial débris near the margin. This débris was old when the Glacial period began.

3. With reference to the argument for two distinct glacial periods drawn from the smaller apparent amount of glacial erosion over the southern part of the glaciated area, we have to remark that that would occur in case of a single ice-invasion as well as in case of two distinct ice-invasions, in which the later did not extend so far as the former.

From the very necessity of the case, glacial erosion diminishes as the limit of the extent of the glaciation is approached. At the very margin of the glacier, motion has ceased altogether. Back one mile from the margin only one mile of ice-motion has been active in erosion, while ten miles back from its front there has been ten times as much moving ice actually engaged in erosion, and in the extreme north several hundred times as much ice, Thus it is evident that we do not need to resort to two glacial periods to account for the relatively small amount of erosion exhibited over the southern portion of our glaciated area.

At the same time, it should be said that the indications of active glacial erosion near the margin are by no means few or small. In Lawrence County, Pennsylvania, on the very margin of the glaciated area, Mr. Max Foshay[BI] has discovered very extensive glacial grooves, indicating much vigour of ice-action even beyond the more extensive glacial deposits which Professor Lewis and myself had fixed upon as the terminal moraine. In Highland and Butler Counties, Ohio, and in southwestern Indiana and southern Illinois, near the glacial margin, glacial grooves and striæ are as clear and distinct in many cases as can anywhere be found; while upon the surface of the limestone rocks within the limits of the city of St. Louis, where the glacial covering is thin, and where disintegrating agencies had had special opportunities to work, I found very clear evidences of a powerful ice-movement, which had planed and scratched the rock surface; and at Du Quoin, Illinois, as already related, the fragments thrown up from the surface of the rock, fifty or sixty feet below the top of the soil, were most beautifully planed and striated. It should be observed, also, that this whole area is so deeply covered with débris that the extent of glacial erosion underneath is pretty generally hid from view.

[BI] Bulletin of the Geological Society, vol. ii, pp. 457-464.

4. The uniformity of the distribution of the glacial deposits over the southern portion of the glaciated area in the Mississippi Valley is partly an illusion, due to the fact that there was a vast amount of deposition by water over that area during the earlier stages of the ice-retreat. This has been due partly to the gentler slope which would naturally characterise the borders of an area of elevation, and partly to an extensive subsidence which seems to have begun soon after the ice had reached its farthest extent of motion.

It should be borne in mind that at all times a glacier is accompanied by the issue of vast streams of water from its front, and that these of course increase in volume when the climax has been reached and the ameliorating influences begin to melt away the accumulated mass of ice and to add the volume of its water to that produced by ordinary agencies. As these subglacial streams of water poured out upon the more gentle slopes of the area in front of the ice, they would distribute a vast amount of fine material, which would settle into the hollow places and tend to obscure the irregularities of the previous direct glacial deposit.

Such an instance came clearly under my own observation in the vicinity of Yankton, in South Dakota, where, upon visiting a locality some miles from any river, and to which workmen were resorting for sand, I found that the deposit occupied a kettle-hole, filling it to its brim, and had evidently been superimposed by a temporary stream of water flowing over the region while the ice was still in partial occupation of it. Thus, no doubt, in many cases, the original irregularities of the direct glacial deposits have been obliterated, even where there has been no general subsidence.

But, in the area under consideration, the loess, or loam, is so extensive that it is perhaps necessary to suppose that the central portions of the Mississippi Valley were subjected to a subsidence amounting to about five hundred feet; so that the glacial streams from the retreating ice-front met the waters of the ocean in southern Illinois and Indiana; thus accounting for the extensive fine silt which has done so much over that region to obscure the glacial phenomena.

West of the Rocky Mountains.

The glacial phenomena in the United States west of the Rocky Mountains must be treated separately, since American geologists have ceased to speak of an all-pervading ice-cap extending from the north pole. But, as already said, the glaciation of North America has proceeded from two definite centres of ice-accumulation, one of which we have been considering in the pages immediately preceding. The great centre of glacial dispersion east of the Rocky Mountains is the region south of Hudson Bay, and the vast ice-field spreading out from that centre is appropriately named the Laurentide Glacier. The movement of ice in this glacial system was outward in all directions from the Laurentian hills, and extended west several hundred miles, well on towards the eastern foot of the Rocky Mountains.

The second great centre of glacial dispersion occupies the vast Cordilleran region of British Columbia, reaching from the Rocky Mountains on the northeast to the Coast Range of the Pacific on the southwest, a width of four hundred miles. The length is estimated by Dr. Dawson to be twelve hundred miles. The principal centre of ice-accumulation lies between the fifty-fifth and the fifty-ninth parallel. From this centre the movement was in all directions, but chiefly to the northwest and to the south. The movement of the Cordilleran glaciers extended northwest to a distance of three hundred and fifty miles, leaving their moraines far down in the Yukon Valley on the Lewes and Pelly Rivers.[BJ] Southward the Cordilleran Glacier moved to a distance of six hundred miles, extending to the Columbia River, in the eastern part of the State of Washington.

[BJ] See George M. Dawson, in Science, vol. xi, 1888, p. 186, and American Geologist, September, 1890, pp. 153-162.

From this centre, also, the ice descended to the sea-level upon the west, and filled all the channels between Vancouver’s Island and the mainland, as well as those in the Alexander Archipelago of Alaska. South of Vancouver’s Island a glacier pushed out through the straits of Juan de Fuca to an unknown distance. All the islands in Puget Sound are composed of glacial débris, resembling in every respect the terminal moraines which have been described as constituting many of the islands south of the New England coast. The ice-movement in Puget Sound, however, was probably northward, resulting from glaciers which are now represented by their diminutive descendants on the flanks of Mount Rainier.

South of the Columbia River the country was never completely enveloped by the ice, but glaciers extended far down in the valleys from all the lofty mountain-peaks. In Idaho there are glacial signs from the summit of the Rocky Mountains down to the westward of Lake Pend d’Oreille. In the Yellowstone Park there are clear indications that the whole area was enveloped in glacial ice. An immense boulder of granite, resting upon volcanic deposits, may be found a little west of Inspiration Point, on the Yellowstone Cañon. Abundant evidences of glacial action are also visible down the Yellowstone River to the vicinity of Livingston, showing that that valley must have been filled with glacial ice to a depth of sixteen hundred feet. To the west the glaciers from the Yellowstone Park extended to the border of Idaho, where a clearly marked terminal moraine is to be found in the Tyghee Pass, leading over from the western fork of the Madison River into Lewis Fork of the Snake River. South of Yellowstone Park the Teton Mountains were an important centre for the dispersion of local glaciers, but they did not descend upon the western side much below the 6,000-foot level, and only barely came to the edge of the great Snake River lava plains. To the east the movement from the Teton Mountains joined that from various other lofty mountains, where altogether they have left a most intricate system of glacial deposits, in whose reticulations Jackson’s Lake is held in place.

Fig. 37.—Moraines of Grape Creek, Sangre del Cristo Mountains, Colorado (after Stevenson).

In Utah extensive glaciers filled all the northern valleys of the Uintah Mountains, and extended westward in the Wahsatch range to the vicinity of Salt Lake City. The mountain region of Colorado, also, had its glaciers, occupying the head-waters of the Arkansas, the Platte, the Gunnison, and the Grand Rivers. The most southern point in the Rocky Mountains at which signs of local glaciers have been noted is near the summits of the San Juan range, in southwestern Colorado. Here a surface of about twenty-five square miles, extending from an elevation of 12,000 feet down to 8,000 feet, shows every sign of the former presence of moving ice. The greater part of the glaciation in Colorado is confined to elevations above 10,000 feet.

The whole range of the Sierra Nevada through Oregon, and as far south as the Yosemite Valley in California, formerly sustained glaciers of far greater size than any which are now found in those mountains. In general these glaciers were much longer on the western side of the Sierra Nevada than on the eastern. On the eastern side glaciers barely came down to Lake Tahoe and Lake Mono in California. The State of Nevada seems to have been entirely free from glaciers, although it contains numerous mountain-peaks more than ten thousand feet high. In the Yosemite Cañon glaciers extended down the Merced River to the mouth of the cañon; while in the Tuolumne River, a few miles to the north, the glaciers which still linger about the peaks of Mount Dana filled the valley for a distance of forty miles.

It is a question among geologists whether or not the glaciation west of the Rocky Mountains was contemporaneous with that of the eastern part of the continent. The more prevalent opinion among those who have made special study of the phenomena is that the development of the Cordilleran glaciers was independent of that of the Laurentide system. At any rate, the intense glaciation of the Pacific coast seems to have been considerably later than that of the Atlantic region. Of this we will speak more particularly in discussing the questions of the date and the cause of the Glacial period. It is sufficient for us here simply to say that, from his extensive field observations throughout the Cordilleran region, Dr. George M. Dawson infers that there have been several successive alternations of level on the Pacific coast corresponding to successive glacial and interglacial epochs, and that when there was a period of elevation west of the Rocky Mountains there was a period of subsidence to the east, and vice versa. In short, he supposes that the east and west for a long time played a game of seesaw, with the Rocky Mountains as the fulcrum. We give his scheme in tabulated form.

Scheme of Correlation of the Phenomena of the Glacial Period in the Cordilleran Region and in the Region of the Great Plains.

In New Zealand the marks of the Glacial period are unequivocal The glaciers which now come down from the lofty mountains upon the South Island of New Zealand to within a few hundred feet of the sea then descended to the sea-level. The longest existing glacier in New Zealand is sixteen miles, but formerly one of them had a length of seventy-eight miles. One of the ancient moraines contains a boulder from thirty to forty feet in diameter, and the amount of glacial débris covering the mountain-sides is said to be enormous. Reports have also been recently brought of signs of ancient glaciers in Australia.

Fig. 38.—Generalised view of the whole glaciated region of North America. The area of motionless ground-ice is shown by the white lines in northern part of Alaska.

According to Darwin, there are distinct signs of glaciation upon the plains of Patagonia sixty or seventy miles east of the foot of the mountains, and in the Straits of Magellan he found great masses of unstratified glacial material containing boulders which were at least one hundred and thirty miles away from their parent rock; while upon the island of Chiloe he found embedded in “hardened mud” boulders which must have come from the mountain-chains of the continent. Agassiz also observed unquestionable glacial phenomena on various parts of the Fuegian coast, and indeed everywhere on the continent south of latitude 37°. Between Concepcion and Arauco, in latitude 37°, Agassiz observed, near the sea-level, a glacial surface well marked with furrows and scratches, and as well preserved, he says, “as any he had seen under the glaciers of the present day.”

Fig. 39.—Quartzite boulder of 45 cubic metres, on Mont Lachat, 800 metres above the valley of the Belley, in Ain, France (Falsan).

[CHAPTER VI.]

ANCIENT GLACIERS IN THE EASTERN HEMISPHERE.

About two million square miles of northern Europe were covered with perennial ice during the Glacial period. From the scratches upon the rocks, and from the direction in which material has been transported, it is evident that the main centre of radiation is to be found in the mountains of Scandinavia, and that the glaciers still existing in Norway are the lineal descendants of those of the great Ice age.

So shallow are the Baltic Sea and the German Ocean, that their basins were easily filled with ice, upon which Scandinavian boulders could be transported westward to the east shore of England, southward into the plains of Germany, and eastward far out upon the steppes of Russia. The islands north of Scotland bear marks also of an ice-movement from the direction of Norway. If Scotland itself was not overrun with Scandinavian glaciers, the reason was that it had ice enough of its own, and from its highlands set up a counter-movement, which successfully resisted the invasion from the Scandinavian Peninsula. But, elsewhere in Europe, Scandinavian ice moved freely outward to the extent of its capacity. Then, as now also, the Alps furnished centres for ice-movement, but the glaciers were limited to the upper portions of the valleys of the Rhône, the Rhine, and the Danube upon the west and north, and to a still smaller area upon the southern side.

Fig. 40.

Central and Southern Europe.

The main centres of ice-movement in the Alps during the Glacial period are the same as those which furnish the lingering glaciers of the present time. From the water-shed between the Rhine, the Rhône, and the Aar, glaciers of immense size descended all the valleys now occupied by those streams. The valley of the Rhône between the Bernese and the Pennine Alps was filled with a glacier of immense depth, which was maintained by fresh supplies from tributaries upon either side as far down as Martigny. Glacial markings at the head of the Rhône Valley are found upon the Schneestock,[BK] at an elevation above the sea of about 11,500 feet (3,550 metres), or about 1,500 feet above the present surface of the Rhône Glacier. At Fiesch, about twenty miles below, where tributaries from the Bernese Oberland snow-fields were received, the thickness of the glacier was upwards of 5,000 feet (1,680 metres). Near Martigny, about fifty miles farther down the valley, where the glacier was abruptly deflected to the north, the depth of the ice was still upwards of 1,600 metres. From Martigny northward the thickness of the ice decreased rapidly for a few miles, where, at the enlargement of the valley above the head of Lake Geneva, it was less than 1,200 metres in thickness, and spread out over the intervening plain as far as Chasseron, with a nearly level surface, transporting, as we have before said, Alpine boulders to the flanks of the Juras, and landing them about 3,000 feet (1,275 metres) above the level of Lake Geneva. The width of the main valley is here about fifty miles, making the slope of the surface of the ice about twenty feet to the mile.

[BK] A. Falsan’s La Période Grlaciaire étudiée principalement en France et en Suisse, chapitre xv.

From its “vomitory,” at the head of Lake Geneva, the ice of the ancient Rhône Glacier spread to the right and to the left, while its northern boundary was abruptly terminated by the line of the Jura Mountains. The law of glacial motion was, however, admirably illustrated in the height to which the ice rose upon the flanks of the Jura. At Chasseron, in the direct line of its onward motion, it rose to its highest point, while both to the southwest and to the northeast, along the line of the Juras, the ice-action was limited to constantly decreasing levels.

Down the valley of the Rhône the direction of motion was determined by the depression of Lake Geneva, at the lower end of which it received its main tributary from Mont Blanc, which had come down from Chamouni through the valley of the river Arve. From this point it was deflected by a spur of the Jura Mountains more and more southward to the vicinity of Culoz, near the mouth of Lake Bourget. Here the glacier coming down from the western flanks of the Alps, through the upper valley of the Isère, past Chambéry, became predominant, and deflected the motion to the west and north, whither the ice extended to a line passing through Bourg, Lyons, and Vienne, leaving upon one of the eminences on which Lyons is built a boulder several feet in diameter, which is duly preserved and labelled in the public park in that portion of the city. Farther south, glaciers of less extent marked the Alps most of the way to the Mediterranean, but they were not at all comparable in size to those from the central region.

To the right of Lake Geneva the movement started by the Rhône Glacier spread eastward, being joined in the vicinity of Berne by the confluent ice-stream which descended from the north flank of the Bernese Oberland, through the valley of the Aar. These united streams filled the whole valley with ice as far down as Soleure.[BL]

[BL] [See map] of Rhône Glacier, on [p. 58].

Farther eastward, other ice-streams from the Alps became predominant, one of which, moving down the Reuss, deployed out upon the country lying north of Lucerne and Zug. Still farther down, the ancient glacier which descended the Limmatt spread itself out over the hills and lowlands about Zürich, one of its moraines of retrocession nearly dividing the lake into two portions.

Guyot and others have shown that the superficial deposits of this portion of Switzerland are just such as would be distributed by glaciers coming down from the above-mentioned Alpine valleys. Uniting together north of Zürich, these glaciers pushed onward as far as the Rhine below Schaffhausen. In Frickthal the glacial ice was still 1,200 feet thick, and at Kaisterberg between 400 and 500 feet.

At Lucerne there is a remarkable exposure of pot-holes, and a glaciated surface such as could be produced only by the combined action of moving ice and running water; thus furnishing to tourists an instructive object-lesson. Among the remarkable instances of boulders transported a long distance in Switzerland, is that of a block of granite carried from the Valais to the vicinity of Soleure, a distance of one hundred and fifteen miles, which weighs about 4,100 tons. “The celebrated Pierre-à-Bot, above Neufchâtel, measures 50’ × 20’ × 40’, and contains about 40,000 cubic feet of stone; while the Pierre-des-Marmettes, near Monthey, contains no less than 60,840 cubic feet.”

The ancient glacier of the Rhine, receiving its initial impulse in the same centre as that of the Rhône, fully equalled it in all its dimensions. Descending eastward from its source near the Schneestock to Chur, a distance of fifty miles, it turned northward and continued forty-five miles farther to the head of Lake Constance, where it spread out in fan-shape, extending northwest to Thiengen, below Schaffhausen, and covering a considerable area north and northeastward of the lake, reaching in the latter direction Ulm, upon the Danube—the whole distance of the movement being more than one hundred and fifty miles. Through other valleys tributary to the Danube, glaciers descended upon the upper plains of Bavaria, from the Tyrolese Alps to the vicinity of Munich. From Gross Glockner as a centre in the Noric Alps, vast rivers of ice, of which the Pasterzen Glacier is the remnant, poured far down into the valleys of the Inn and the Enns on the north and into that of the Drave on the southeast. Farther eastward in this part of Europe the mountains seem to have been too low to have furnished centres for any general dispersion of glacial ice.

Fig. 41.—Map showing the Lines of Débris extending from the Alps into the Plains of the Po (after Lyell). A. Crest of the Alpine water-shed; B. Névé-fields of the ancient glaciers; C. Moraines of ancient glaciers.
Click on image to view larger sized.

Upon the south side of the Alps the ancient glaciers spread far out upon the plains of Lombardy, where moraines of vast extent and of every description enable the student to determine the exact limits of the ancient ice-action. From the southern flanks of Mont Blanc and Monte Rosa, and from the snow-fields of the western Alps, glaciers of great volume descended into the valley of Dora Baltea (vale of Aosta), and on emerging from the mountain valley Spread Out over the plains around Ivrea, leaving moraine hills in some instances 1,500 feet in height. The total length of this glacier was as much as one hundred and twenty miles. From the snow-fields in the vicinity of Mont Cenis, also, glaciers extended down the Dora Ripera to the vicinity of Turin, and down other valleys to a less extent. The lateral moraines of the Diore, on the south side of Mont Blanc, at the head of the Dora Baltea, are 2,000 feet above the present river, and extend upon the left bank for a distance of twenty miles.

From the eastern Alps, glaciers descended through all the valleys of the Italian lakes and deposited vast terminal moraines, which still obstruct the drainage, and produce the charming lakes of that region. A special historic interest pertains to the series of concentric moraines south of Lake Garda, since it was in the reticulations of this glacial deposit that the last great battle for Italian liberty was fought on June 24, 1859. Defeated in the engagements farther up the valley of the Po, the Austrian general Benedek took his final stand to resist the united forces of France and Italy behind an outer semicircle of the moraine hills south of this lake (some of which are 500 or 600 feet above the surrounding country), with his centre at Solferino, about ten miles from Peschera. Here, behind this natural fortification, he awaited the enemy, who was compelled to perform his manœuvres on the open plain which spread out on every side. But the natural fortifications furnished by the moraine hills were too extensive to be defended by an army of moderate size. The troops of Napoleon and Victor Immanuel concentrated at Solferino and broke through the line. Thus the day was lost to the Austrians, and they retired from Lombardy, leaving to Italy both the artificial and the natural fortifications that guard the southern end of this important entrance to the Tyrolese Alps. When once his attention is called to the subject, the traveller upon the railroad cannot fail to notice this series of moraines, as he enters it through a tunnel at Lonato on the west, and emerges from it at Soma Campagna, eighteen or twenty miles distant to the east. A monument celebrating the victory stands upon a moraine hill about half-way between, at Martino della Battaglie.

In other portions of central and southern Europe the mountains were too low to furnish important centres for glacial movements. Still, to a limited extent, the signs of ancient glaciers are seen in the mountains of the Black Forest, in the Harz and Erzgebirge, and in the Carpathians on the east and among the Apennines on the south. In Spain, also, there were limited ice-fields on the higher portions of the Sierra Nevada and in the mountains of Estremadura, and perhaps in some other places. In France, small glaciers were to be found in the higher portions of the Auvergne, of the Morvan, of the Vosges, and of the Cevennes; while, from the Pyrenees, glaciers extended northward throughout nearly their whole extent. The ice-stream descending from the central mass of Maladetta through the upper valley of the Garonne, was joined by several tributaries, and attained a length of about forty-five miles.

The British Isles.

During the climax of the Glacial period the Hebrides to the north of Scotland were covered with ice to a depth of 1,600 feet. How far westward of this it moved out to the sea, it is of course impossible to tell. But in the channels between the Hebrides and Scotland it is evident that the water was completely expelled by the ice, and that, from a height of 1,600 feet above the Hebrides to the northern shores of Scotland, there was a continuous ice-field sloping southward at the rate of about twenty-five feet a mile.

Scotland itself was completely enveloped in glacial ice. Prevented by the Scandinavian Glacier from moving eastward, the Scotch movement was compelled to be westward and southward. On the southwest the ice-stream reached the shores of Ireland, and became confluent with the glaciers that enveloped that island, completely filling the Irish Sea.

There are so many controverted points respecting the glacial geology of England, and they have such an important bearing upon the main question of this volume, that a pretty full discussion of them will be necessary. I have recently been over enough of the ground myself to become satisfied of the general correctness of the views entertained by my late colleague, the lamented Professor Henry Carvill Lewis, whose death in 1888 took place before the publication of his most mature conclusions. But the lines of investigation to which he gave so powerful an impulse have since been followed out by an active body of scientific observers. To give the statement of facts greater precision and authority, I have committed the preparation of it to the Secretary of the Northwest of England Boulder Committee, Percy F. Kendall, F. G. S., Lecturer on Geology at the Yorkshire College, Leeds, and at the Stockport Technical School, England.[BM]

[BM] Mr. Kendall’s contribution extends to [page 181].

“All the characteristic evidences of the action of land-ice can be found in the greatest perfection in many parts of England and Wales. Drumlins, kames, roches moutonnées, far-travelled erratics, terminal moraines, and perched blocks, all occur. There are, besides, in the wide-spread deposits of boulder-clay which cover so many thousands of square miles on the low grounds lying on either side of the Pennine chain, evidences of the operation of ice-masses of a size far exceeding that of the grandest of existing European glaciers. But, while the proofs of protracted and severe glaciation are thus patent, there are, nevertheless, many apparently anomalous circumstances which arrest the attention when the whole country is surveyed. The glacial phenomena appear to be strictly limited to the country lying to the northward of a line extending from the Bristol Channel to the mouth of the Thames; and within the glaciated area there are many extensive tracts of land devoid of ‘drift’ or other indications of ice-action.

“By comparison with the phenomena displayed in the North American continent, English glacial geology must seem puny and insignificant; but, just as with the features of the ‘Solid Geology,’ we have compressed within the narrow limits of our isles an epitome of the features which across the Atlantic require a continent for their exposition. It has resulted from this concentration that English geology requires a much closer and more minute investigation. And the difficulty which has been experienced by glacial geologists of dealing with an involved series of facts has, in the absence of any clue leading to the co-ordination of a vast series of more or less disconnected observations, resulted in the adoption, to meet certain local anomalies, of explanations which were very difficult if not impossible of reconciliation with facts observed in adjacent areas. Thus, to account for shell-bearing drift extending up to the water-shed on one side of a lofty range of hills, a submergence of the land to a depth of 1,400 feet has been postulated; leaving for independent explanation the fact, that the opposite slopes of the hills and the low ground beyond were absolutely destitute of drift or of any evidence of marine action.

“In the following pages I must adopt a somewhat dogmatic tone, in order to confine myself within the limits of space which are imposed; and trust rather to the cohesion and consistency of the explanations offered and to a few pregnant facts than to the weighing and contrasting of rival theories.

“The facts point conclusively to the action in the British Isles of a series of glaciers radiating outward from the great hill chains or clusters, and, as the refrigeration progressed, becoming confluent and moving though in the same general direction, yet with less regard to the minor inequalities of the ground. During these two stages many glaciers must have debouched upon the sea-coast, with the consequent production of icebergs, which floated off with loads of boulders and dispersed them in the random fashion which is a necessary characteristic of transport by floating ice.

“With a further accentuation of the cold conditions the discharge of bergs from terminal fronts which advanced into the extremely shallow seas surrounding the British shores would be quite inadequate to relieve the great press of ice, and a further coalescence of separate elements must have resulted. In the case of enclosed seas—as, for example, the Irish Sea—the continued inthrust of glacier-ice would expel the water completely; and the conjoined ice-masses would take a direction of flow the resultant of the momentum and direction of the constituent elements. In other cases—as, for example, in the North Sea—extraneous ice approaching the shores might cause a deflection of the flow of the native glaciers, even though the foreign ice might never actually reach the shore.

“To such a system of confluent glaciers, and to the separate elements out of which they grew, and into which, after the culmination, they were resolved, I attribute the whole of the phenomena of the English and Welsh drift. And only at one or two points upon the coast, and raised but little above the sea-level, can I recognise any signs of marine action.

“The Preglacial Level of the Land.—There is very little direct evidence bearing upon this point. In Norfolk the famous forest bed, with its associated deposits, stands at almost precisely the level which it occupied in preglacial times. At Sewerby, near Flamborough Head, there is an ancient beach and ‘buried cliff’ which the sea is now denuding of its swathing of drift-deposits, and its level can be seen to be almost absolutely coincident with the present beach. Mr. Lamplugh, whose description of the ‘Drifts of Flamborough Head,’[BN] constitutes one of the gems of glacial literature, considers that there is clear evidence that the land stood at this level for a long period. The beach is covered by a rain-wash of small extent, and that in turn by an ancient deposit of blown sand, while the lowest member of the drift series of Yorkshire covers the whole. Mr. Lamplugh thinks that the blown sand may indicate a slight elevation of the land; but the beach appears to me to be the storm beach, and the reduction in the force of the waves such as would result from the approach of an ice-front a few miles to the seaward would probably produce the necessary conditions.

[BN] Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society, vol. xlvii.

“Six miles to the northward of Flamborough, at Speeton, a bed of estuarine silt containing the remains of mollusca in the position of life occurs at an altitude of ninety feet above high-water mark. Mr. Lamplugh inclines to the opinion that this bed is of earlier date than the ‘buried cliff’; he also admits the possibility that its superior altitude may be due to a purely local upward bulging of the soft Lower Cretaceous clays upon which the estuarine bed rests by the weight of the adjacent lofty chalk escarpment.

“The evidence obtained from inland sections and borings in different parts of England has been taken to indicate a greater altitude in preglacial times. Thus, in Essex, deep-borings have revealed the existence of deep drift-filled valleys, having their floors below sea-level. The valley of the Mersey is a still better example. Numerous borings have been made in the neighbourhood of Widnes and at other places in the lower reaches of the river, making it clear that there is a channel filled with drift and extending to 146 feet below mean sea-level. This, with several other instances, has been taken to indicate a greater altitude for the land in preglacial times, since a river could not erode its channel to such a depth below sea-level. The argument appears inconclusive for one principal reason: no mention is made of any river gravels or other alluvium in the borings. Indeed, there is an explicit statement that the deposits are all glacial, showing that the channel must have been cleared out by ice. This, therefore, leaves open the vital question, whether the deposits removed were marine or fluviatile. It may be remarked that the great estuary of the Mersey has undoubtedly been produced by a post-glacial (and probably post-Roman) movement of depression.

“The Preglacial Climate.—In all speculations regarding the cause of the Glacial epoch, due account must be taken of the undoubted fact that it came on with extreme slowness and departed with comparative suddenness. In the east of England an almost perfect and uninterrupted sequence of deposits is preserved, extending from the early part of the Pliocene period down to the present day.

“These in descending order are:

“1. Post-glacial sands, gravels, etc.

“2. Glacial series.

“3. The ‘Forest Bed’ and associated marine deposits.

“4. Chillesford clay and sand.

“5. The many successive stages of the Red Crag. (The Norwich Crag is a local variation of the upper part of the Red Crag.)

“6. The Coralline Crag.

“The fossils preserved in these deposits, apart from the physical indications, exhibit the climatal changes which accompanied their deposition. The Coralline Crag contains a fauna consisting mainly of species which now range to the Mediterranean, many of them being restricted to the warm southern waters. Associated with these are a few boreal forms, but they are represented in general by few individuals. Here and there in the deposits of this age far-travelled stones are to be found, but they are always accounted great rarities.

“The Red Crag consists of an irregular assemblage of beaches and sand-banks of widely different ages, but their sequence can be made out with ease by a study of the fauna. In the oldest deposits, Mediterranean species are very numerous, while the boreal forms are comparatively rare; but in successive later deposits the proportions are very gradually reversed, and from the overlying Chillesford series the Mediterranean species are practically absent. The physical indications run pari passu with the paleontological, and in the newer beds of the Red Crag far-travelled stones are common.

“In the Forest Bed series there is a marine band—the Leda myalis bed—which contains an almost arctic assemblage of shells; while at about the same horizon plant remains have been found, including such high northern species as Salix polaris and Betula nana.

“The glacial deposits do not, in my opinion, contain anywhere in England or Wales a genuine intrinsic fauna, such shells as occur in the East Anglian glacial deposits having been derived in part from a contemporary sea-bed, and, for the rest, from the older formations, down perhaps to the Coralline Crag. In the post-glacial deposits we have hardly any trace of a survival of the boreal forms, and I consider that the whole marine fauna of the North Sea was entirely obliterated at the culmination of the Glacial epoch, and that the repeopling in post-glacial times proceeded mainly from the English Channel, into which the northern forms never penetrated.

"The Great Glacial Centres.

“Where such complex interactions have to be described as were produced by the conflicting glaciers of the British Isles it is difficult to deal consecutively with the phenomena of any one area, but with short digressions in explanation of special points it may be possible to accomplish a clear presentation of the facts.

“Wales.—The phenomena of South Wales are comparatively simple. Great glaciers travelled due southward from the lofty Brecknock Beacons, and left the characteristic moutonnée appearance upon the rocky bed over which they moved. The boulder-transport is in entire agreement with the other indications, and there are no shells in the drift. The facts awaiting explanation are the occurrence in the boulder-clays of Glamorganshire, at altitudes up to four hundred feet, of flints, and of igneous rocks somewhat resembling those of the Archæan series of the Wrekin. At Clun, in Shropshire, a train of erratics ([see map]) has been traced back to its source to the westward. On the west coast, in Cardigan Bay, the boulders are all such as might have been derived from the interior of Wales. At St. David’s Peninsula, Pembrokeshire, striæ occur coming in from the northwest, and, taken with the discovery of boulders of northern rocks, may point to a southward extension of a great glacier produced by confluent sheets that choked the Irish Sea. Information is very scanty regarding large areas in mid-Wales, but such as can be gathered seems to point to ice-shedding having taken place from a north and south parting line. In North Wales, much admirable work has been done which clearly indicates the neighbourhood of Great Arenig (Arenig Mawr) as the radiant point for a great dispersal of blocks of volcanic rock of a characteristic Welsh type.

“Ireland.—A brief reference must be made to Ireland, as the ice which took origin there played an important part in bringing about some strange effects in English glaciation, which would be inexplicable without a recognition of the causes in operation across the Irish Sea. Ireland is a great basin, surrounded by an almost continuous girdle of hills. The rainfall is excessive, and the snow-fall was probably more than proportionately great; therefore we might expect that an ice-sheet of very large dimensions would result from this combination of favouring conditions. The Irish ice-sheet appears to have moved outward from about the centre of the island, but the main flow was probably concentrated through the gaps in the encircling mountains.

“Galloway.—The great range of granite mountains in the southwestern corner of Scotland seems to have given origin to an immense mass of ice which moved in the main to the southward, and there are good grounds for the belief that the whole ice-drainage of the area, even that which gathered on the northern side of the water-shed, ultimately found its way into the Irish Sea basin and came down coastwise and across the low grounds of the Rinns of Galloway, being pushed down by the press of Highland ice which entered the Firth of Clyde. It is a noteworthy fact that marine shells occur in the drift in the course taken by the ice coming on to the extremity of Galloway from the Clyde.

“The Lake District.—A radial flow of ice took place down the valleys from about the centre of the Cumbrian hill-plexus, but movement to the eastward was at first forbidden by the great rampart of the Cross Fell escarpment, which stretches like a wall along the eastern side of the Vale of Eden.

“During the time when the Cumbrian glaciers had unobstructed access to the Solway Frith, to the Irish Sea, and to Morecambe Bay, the dispersal of boulders of characteristic local rocks would follow the ordinary drainage-lines; but, as will be shown later, a state of affairs supervened in the Irish Sea which resulted, in many cases, in a complete reversal of the ice-flow.

“The Pennine Chain was the source of glaciers of majestic dimensions upon both its flanks in the region north of Skipton, but to the southward of that breach in the chain ([see map]) no evidence is obtainable of any local glaciers.

"The Confluent Glaciers.

“With the growth of ice-caps upon the great centres a condition of affairs was brought about in the Irish Sea productive of results which will readily be foreseen. The enormous volumes of ice poured into the shallow sea from north, south, east, and west, resulted in such a congestion as to necessitate the initiation of some new systems of drainage.

“The Irish Sea Glacier.—The ice from Galloway, Cumbria, and Ireland became confluent, forming what the late Professor Carvill Lewis termed ‘the Irish Sea Glacier,’ and took a direction to the southward. Here it came in diametrical conflict with the northward-flowing element of the Welsh sheet, which it arrested and mastered; and the Irish Sea Glacier bifurcated, probably close upon the precipitous Welsh coast to the eastward of the Little Orme’s Head, and the two branches flowed coastwise to eastward and westward, keeping near the shore-line.

“The westerly branch swept round close to the coast in a southwesterly direction, and completely overrode Anglesea; striating the rock-surfaces from northeast to southwest ([see map]), and strewing the country with its bottom-moraine, containing characteristic northern rocks, such as the Galloway granites, the lavas and granites of the central and western portions of the Lake District, and fragments of shells derived from shell-banks in the Irish Sea. One episode of this phase of the ice-movement was the invasion of the first line of hills between the Menai Straits and Snowdon. The gravels and sands of Fridd-bryn-mawr, Moel Tryfaen, and Moel-y-Cilgwyn, are the coarser washings of the bottom-moraine, and consequently contain such rock-fragments and shells as characterise it. From Moel-y-Cilgwyn southward, evidence is lacking regarding the course taken by the glacier, but it probably passed over or between the Rivals Mountains (Yr Eifl), and down Cardigan Bay at some distance from the coast in confluence with the ice from mid-Wales; and, as I have suggested, may have passed over St. David’s Head.

“Returning now towards the head of the glacier we may follow with advantage its left bank downward. The ice-flow on the Cumberland coast appears to have resembled very much that in North Wales. A great press of ice from the northward (Galloway) seems to have had a powerful ‘easting’ imparted to it by the conjoint influences of the thrust of the Irish ice and the inflow of ice from the Clyde. Whatever may have been the cause, the effect is clear: about Ravenglass cleavage took place, and a flow to northward and to southward, each bending easterly. By far the larger mass took a southerly course and bent round Black Combe, over Walney, and a strip of the mainland about Barrow in Furness, and out into and across Morecambe Bay. Its limits are marked in the field by the occurrence of the same rocks which characterise it in Anglesea, viz., the granites of Galloway and of west and central Cumbria.

“The continued thrust shouldered in the glacier upon the mainland of Lancashire, but the precise point of emergence has not yet been traced, though it cannot be more than a few miles from the position indicated on the map. I should here remark, that all along the boundaries the Irish Sea Glacier was confluent with local ice, except, probably, in that part of the Pennine chain to the southward of Skipton. Down to Skipton there was a great mass of Pennine ice which was compelled to take an almost due southerly course, and thus to run directly athwart the direction of the main hills and valleys. A sharp easterly inflection of the Irish Sea Glacier carried it up the valley of the Ribble, and thence, under the shoulder of Pendle, to Burnley, where Scottish granites are found in the boulder-clay.

“On the summit of the Pennine water-shed, at Heald Moor, near Todmorden (1,419 feet), boulder-clay has been found containing erratics belonging to this dispersion; while in the gorge of the Yorkshire Calder, which flows along the eastern side of the same hill, not a vestige of such a deposit is to be found, saving a few erratic pebbles at a distance of eight or ten miles, which were probably carried down by flood-wash from the edge of the ice.

“From this point the limits of the ice may be traced along the flanks of the Pennine chain at an average altitude of about 1,100 feet.

“At one place the erratics can be traced to a position which would indicate the formation of an extra-morainic lake having its head at a col about 1,000 feet above sea-level, separating it from the valley of an eastward-flowing stream, the Wye, about twelve miles down which a few granite blocks have been found. Other extra-morainic lakes must have been formed, but very little information has been collected regarding them. The Irish Sea Glacier can be shown to have spread across the whole country to the westward of the line I have traced, and beyond the estuary of the Dee.

“I may now follow its boundaries on the Welsh coast, and pursue the line to the final melting-place of the glacier. From the Little Orme’s Head the line of confluence with the native ice is pretty clearly defined. It runs in, perhaps, half a mile from the shore, until the broad low tract of the Vale of Clwyd is reached. Here the northern ice obtained a more complete mastery, and pushed in even as far as Denbigh. This extreme limit was probably attained as a mere temporary episode. Horizontal striæ on a vertical face of limestone on the crags dominating the mouth of the vale on the eastern side attest beyond dispute the action of a mass of land-ice moving in from the north.

“I may here remark, that in this district the deposits furnish a very complete record of the events of the Glacial period. In the cliffs on the eastern side of the Little Orme’s Head, and at several other points along the coast towards the east, a sequence may be observed as follows:

“4. Boulder-clay with northern erratics and shells.

“3. Sands and gravels with northern erratics and shells.

“2. Boulder-clay with northern erratics and shells.

“1. Boulder-clay with Welsh erratics and no shells.

“A similar succession is to be seen in the Vale of Clwyd. The interpretation is clear: In the early stages of glaciation the Welsh ice spread without hindrance to, and laid down, bed No. 1; then the northern ice came down, bringing its typical erratics and the scourings of the sea-bottom, and laid down the variable series of clays, sands, and gravels which constitute Nos. 2, 3, and 4 of the section.

Fig. 42.—The Cefn Cave, in Vale of Clwyd. (Trimmer.) a, Entrance; b, mud with pebbles and wood covered with stalagmite; c, mud, bones, and angular fragments of limestone; d, sand and silt, with fragments of marine shells; e, fissure; f, northern drift; g, cave cleared of mud; h, river Elwy, 100 feet below; i, limestone rock.

“In the Vale of Clwyd an additional interest is imparted to the study of the drift from the circumstance that the remains of man have been found in deposits in caves sealed with drift-beds. The best example is the Cae Gwyn caves, in which flint implements and the bones and teeth of various extinct animals were found embedded in ‘cave-earth’ which was overlaid by bedded deposits of shell-bearing drift, with erratics of the northern type.

“It has been supposed that the drift-deposits were marine accumulations; but it is inconceivable that the cave could ever have been subjected to wave-action without the complete scouring out of its contents.

“To resume the delineation of the limits of the great Irish Sea Glacier: From the Vale of Clwyd the boundary runs along the range of hills parallel to the estuary of the Dee at an altitude of about nine hundred feet. As it is traced to the southeast it gradually rises, until at Frondeg, a few miles to the northward of the embouchure of the Yale of Llangollen, it is at a height of 1,450 feet above sea-level. Thence it falls to 1,150 feet at Gloppa, three miles to the westward of Oswestry, and this is the most southerly point to which it has been definitely traced on the Welsh border, though scattered boulders of northern rocks are known to occur at Church Stretton.

“Along the line from the Vale of Clwyd to Oswestry the boundary is marked by a very striking series of moraine-mounds. They occur on the extreme summits of lofty hills in a country generally almost driftless, and their appearance is so unusual that one—Moel-y-crio—at least has been mistaken for an artificial tumulus. The limitation of the dispersal of northern erratics by these mounds is very clear and sharp; and Mackintosh, in describing those at Frondeg, remarked that, while no northern rocks extended to the westward of them, so no Welsh erratics could be found to cross the line to the eastward. There are Welsh erratics in the low grounds of Cheshire and Shropshire, but their distribution is sporadic, and will be explained in a subsequent section.

“Having thus followed around the edges of this glacier, it remains to describe its termination. It is clear that the ice must have forced its way over the low water-shed between the respective basins of the Dee and the Severn. So soon as this ridge (less than 500 feet above the sea) is crossed, we find the deposits laid down by the glacier change their character, and sands and gravels attain a great predominance.[BO] Near Bridgenorth, and, at other places, hills composed of such materials attain an altitude of 200 feet. From Shrewsbury via Burton, and thence, in a semicircular sweep, through Bridgenorth and Enville, there is an immense concentration of boulders and pebbles, such as to justify the designation of a terminal moraine. To the southward, down the valley of the Severn, existing information points to the occurrence merely of such scattered pebbles as might have been carried down by floods. In the district lying outside this moraine there is a most interesting series of glacial deposits and of boulders of an entirely different character. ([See map].)

[BO] Mackintosh, Q. J. G. S.

“From the neighbourhood of Lichfield, through some of the suburbs of Birmingham, and over Frankley Hill and the Lickey Hills to Bromsgrove, there is a great accumulation of Welsh erratics, from the neighbourhood, probably, of Arenig Mawr.

“The late Professor Carvill Lewis suggested that these Arenig rocks might have been derived from some adjacent outcrop of Palæozoic rocks—a suggestion having its justification in the discoveries that had been made of Cumbrian rocks in the Midlands. To test the matter, an excavation was made at a point selected on Frankley Hill, and a genuine boulder-clay was found, containing erratics of the same type as those found upon the surface.

“The explanation has since been offered that this boulder-clay was a marine deposit laid down during a period of submerge nee.[BP] Apart from the difficulty that the boulder-clay displays none of the ordinary characteristics of a marine deposition, but possesses a structure, or rather absence of structure, in many respects quite inconsistent with such an origin, and contains no shells or other remains of marine creatures, it must be pointed out that no theory of marine notation will explain the distribution of the erratics, and especially their concentration in such numbers at a station sixty or seventy miles from their source.

[BP] Proceedings of the Birmingham Philosophical Society, vol. vi, Part I, p. 181.

“Upon the land-ice hypothesis this difficulty disappears. During the early stages of the Glacial period the Welsh ice had the whole of the Severn Valley at its mercy, and a great glacier was thrust down from Arenig, or some other point in central Wales, having an initial direction, broadly speaking, from west to east. This glacier extended across the valley of the Severn, sweeping past the Wrekin, whence it carried blocks of the very characteristic rocks to be lodged as boulders near Lichfield; and it probably formed its terminal moraine along the line indicated. (See lozenge-shaped marks on the map.) As the ice in the north gathered volume it produced the great Irish Sea Glacier, which pressed inland and down the Vale of Severn in the manner I have described, and brushed the relatively small Welsh stream out of its path, and laid down its own terminal moraine in the space between the Welsh border and the Lickey Hills. It seems probable that the Welsh stream came mainly down the Vale of Llangollen, and thence to the Lickey Hills. Boulders of Welsh rocks occur in the intervening tract by ones and twos, with occasional large clusters, the preservation of any more connected trail being rendered impossible by the great discharge of water from the front of the Irish Sea Glacier, and the distributing action of the glacier itself.

“Within the area in England and Wales covered by the Irish Sea Glacier all the phenomena point to the action of land-ice, with the inevitable concomitants of subglacial streams, extra-morainic lakes, etc. There is nothing to suggest marine conditions in any form except the occurrence of shells or shell fragments; and these present so many features of association, condition, and position inconsistent with, what we should be led to expect from a study of recent marine life, that conchologists are unanimous in declaring that not one single group of them is on the site whereon the shells lived. It is a most significant fact—one out of a hundred which could be cited did space permit—that in the ten thousand square miles of, as it is supposed, recently elevated sea-bottom, not a single example of a bivalve shell with its valves in apposition has ever been found! Nor has a boulder or other stone been found encrusted with those ubiquitous marine parasites, the barnacles.

“The evidences of the action of land-ice within the area are everywhere apparent in the constancy of direction of— (1.) Striæ upon rock surfaces. (2.) The terminal curvature of rocks. (3.) The ‘pull-over’ of soft rocks. (4.) The transportal of local boulders. (5.) The orientation of the long axes of large boulders. (6.) The false bedding of sands and gravels. (7.) The elongation of drift-hills. (8.) The relations of ‘crag and tail.’ There is a similar general constancy, too, in the directions of the striæ upon large boulders. Upon the under side they run longitudinally from southeast (or thereabouts) to northwest, while upon the upper surface they originate at the opposite end, showing that the scratches on the under side were produced by the stone being dragged from northwest to southeast, while those on the top were the product of the passage of stone-laden ice over it in the same direction.

“Such an agreement cannot be fortuitous, but must be attributed to the operation of some agent acting in close parallelism over the whole area. To attribute such regularity to the action of marine currents is to ignore the most elementary principles of marine hydrology. Icebergs must, in the nature of things, be the most erratic of all agents, for the direction of drift is determined—among other varying factors—by the draught of the berg. A mass of small draught will be carried by surface currents, while one of greater depth will be brought within the influence of under-currents; and hence it not infrequently happens that while floe-ice is drifting, say, to the southeast, giant bergs will go crashing through it to the northwest. There are tidal influences also to be reckoned with, and it is matter of common knowledge that flotsam and jetsam travel back and forth, as they are alternately affected by ebb and flood tide.

“Bearing these facts in mind, it is surely too much to expect that marine ice should transport boulders (how it picked up many of them also requires explanation) with such unfailing regularity that it can be said without challenge,[BQ] ‘boulders in this district [South Lancashire and Cheshire] never occur to the north or west of the parent rock.’ The same rule applies without a single authentic exception to the whole area covered by the eastern branch of the Irish Sea Glacier; and hence it comes about that not a single boulder of Welsh rock has ever been recorded from Lancashire.

[BQ] Brit. Assoc. Report, 1890, p. 343.

“The Solway Glacier.—The pressure which forced much of the Irish Sea ice against the Cumbrian coast-line caused, as has been described, a cleavage of the flow near Ravenglass, and, having followed the southerly branch to its termination in the midlands, the remaining moiety demands attention.

“The ‘easting’ motion carried it up the Solway Frith, its right flank spreading over the low plain of northern Cumberland, which it strewed with boulders of the well-known ‘syenite’ (granophyre) of Buttermere. When this ice reached the foot of the Cross Fell escarpment, it suffered a second bifurcation, one branch pushing to the eastward up the valley of the Irthing and over into Tyneside, and the other turning nearly due southward and forcing its way up the broad Vale of Eden.

“Under the pressure of an enormous head of ice, this stream rose from sea-level, turned back or incorporated the native Cumbrian Glacier which stood in its path, and, having arrived almost at the water-shed between the northern and the southern drainage, it swept round to the eastward and crossed over the Pennine water-shed; not, however, by the lowest pass, which is only some 1,400 feet above sea-level, but by the higher pass of Stainmoor, at altitudes ranging from 1,800 to 2,000 feet. The lower part of the course of this ice-flow is sufficiently well characterised by boulders of the granite of the neighbourhood of Dalbeattie in Galloway; but on its way up the Vale of Eden it gathered several very remarkable rocks and posted them as way-stones to mark its course. One of these rocks, the Permian Brockram, occurs nowhere in situ at altitudes exceeding 700 feet, yet in the course of its short transit it was lifted about a thousand feet above its source. The Shap granite (see radiant point on map) is on the northern side of the east and west water-sheds of the Lake District, and reaches its extreme elevation, (1,656 feet) on Wasdale Pike; yet boulders of it were carried over Stainmoor, at an altitude of 1,800 feet literally by tens of thousands.

“This Stainmoor Glacier passed directly over the Pennine chain, past the mouths of several valleys, and into Teesdale, which it descended and spread out in the low grounds beyond. Pursuing its easterly course, it abutted upon the lofty Cleveland Hills and separated into two streams, one of which went straight out to sea at Hartlepool, while the other turned to the southward and flowed down the Vale of York, being augmented on its way by tributary glaciers coming down Wensleydale. The final melting seems to have taken place somewhere a little to the southward of York; but boulders of Shap granite by which its extension is characterised have been found as far to the southward as Royston, near Barnsley.

“The other branch of the Solway Glacier—that which travelled due eastward—passed up the valley of the Irthing, and over into that of the Tyne, and out to sea at Tynemouth. It carried the Scottish granites with it, and tributary masses joined on either hand, bringing characteristic boulders with them.

“The fate of those elements of the Solway Frith Glacier which reached the sea is not left entirely to conjecture. The striated surfaces near the coast of Northumberland indicate a coastwise flow of ice from the northward—probably from the Frith of Forth—and the glaciers coming out from the Tyne and Tees were deflected to the southward.

“There is conclusive evidence that this ice rasped the cliffs of the Yorkshire coast and pressed up into some of the valleys. Where it passed the mouth of the Tees near Whitby it must have had a height of at least 800 feet, but farther down the coast it diminished in thickness. It nowhere extended inland more than a mile or two, and for the most part kept strictly to the coast-line. Along the whole coast are scattered erratics derived from Galloway and the places lying in the paths of the glaciers. In many places the cliffs exhibit signs of rough usage, the rocks being crumpled and distorted by the violent impact of the ice. At Filey Brigg a well-scratched surface has been discovered, the striation being from a few degrees east of north.

“At Speeton the evidence of ice-sheet or glacier-work is of the most striking character. On the top of the cliffs of Cretaceous strata a line of moraine-hills has been laid down, extending in wonderful perfection for a distance of six miles. They consist of a mixture of sand, gravel, and a species of clay-rubble, with occasional masses of true boulder-clay, the whole showing the arched bedding so characteristic of such accumulations. At the northerly end the moraine keeps close to the edge of the chalk cliffs, which are there 400 feet high, and the hills are frequently displayed in section; but as the elevation of the cliffs declines they fall back from the edge of the cliffs and run quite across the headland of Flamborough, and are again exposed in section in Bridlington Bay. One remarkable and significant fact is pointed out, namely, that behind this moraine, within half a mile and at a lower level, the country is almost absolutely devoid of any drift whatever.

Fig. 43.—Moraine between Speeton and Flamborough (Lamplugh).

“The interpretation of these phenomena is as follows: When the valley-glaciers reached the sea they suffered the deflection which has been mentioned, partly as the result of the interference of ice from the east of Scotland, but also influenced directly by the cause which operated upon the Scottish ice and gave direction to it—that is, the impact of a great glacier from Scandinavia, which almost filled the North Sea, and turned in the eastward-flowing ice upon the British coast.

“It is easy to see how this pressure must have forced the glacier-ice against the Yorkshire coast, but vertical chalk cliffs 400 feet in height are not readily surmounted by ice of any thickness, however great, and so it coasted along and discharged its lateral moraine upon the cliff-tops. As the cliffs diminished in height we find the moraine farther inland, and, as I have pointed out, the ice completely overrode Flamborough Head. Amongst the boulders at Flamborough are many of Shap granite, a few Galloway granites, a profusion of Carboniferous rocks, brought by the Tyne branch of the Sol way Glacier as well as by that of Stainmoor, and, besides many torn from the cliffs of Yorkshire, a few examples of unquestionable Scandinavian rocks, such as the well-known Rhomben-porphyr. It is important to note that about ten to twenty miles from the Yorkshire coast there is a tract of sea-bottom called by trawlers ‘the rough ground,’ in allusion to the fact that it is strewn with large boulders, amongst which are many of Shap granite. This probably represents a moraine of the Teesdale Glacier, laid down at a time when the Scandinavian Glacier was not at its greatest development.

“On the south side of Flamborough Head the ‘buried cliff’ previously alluded to occurs. The configuration of the country shows—and the conclusion is established by numerous deep-borings—that the preglacial coast-line takes a great sweep inland from here, and that the plain of Holderness is the result of the banking-up of an immense thickness of glacial débris. In the whole country reviewed, from Tynemouth to Bridlington, wherever the ice came on to the land from the seaward, it brought in shells and fragmentary patches of the sea-bottom involved in its ground moraine. Space does not permit of a detailed description of the several members of the Yorkshire Drift, and I pass on to deal in a general way with the glacial phenomena of the eastern side of England.

“The East Anglian Glacier.—The influence of the Scandinavian ice is clearly seen in the fact that the entire ice-movement down the east coast south of Bridlington was all from the seaward. Clays, sands, and gravels, the products of a continuous mass of land-ice coming from the northeast are spread over the whole country, from the Trent to the high grounds on the north of London overlooking the Thames.

“The line of extreme extension of these drift-deposits runs from Finchley (near London), in the south across Hertfordshire, through Cambridgeshire, with outlying patches at Gogmagog and near Buckingham, and northwestward over a large portion of Leicestershire into the upper waters of the Trent, embracing the elevated region of Palæozoic rocks at Charnwood Forest, near Leicester.

“Reserving the consideration of the very involved questions connected with the drifts of the upper part of the Trent Valley, I may pass on to join the phenomena of the southeastern counties with those at Flamborough Head. From Nottinghamshire the limits of the drift of the East Anglian Glacier seem to run in a direction nearly due west to east, for the great oolitic escarpment upon which Lincoln Cathedral is built is absolutely driftless to the northward of the breach about Sleaford. However, along the western flank of the oolitic range true boulder-clay occurs, bordering and doubtless underlying the great fen-tract of mid-Lincolnshire; and the great Lincolnshire Wolds appear to have been completely whelmed beneath the ice.

“The most remarkable of the deposits in this area is the Great Chalky Boulder-Clay, which consists of clay containing much ground-up chalk, and literally packed with well-striated boulders of chalk of all sizes, from minute pebbles up to blocks a foot or more in diameter. Associated with them are boulders of various foreign rocks, and many flints in a remarkably fresh condition, and still retaining the characteristic white coat, except where partially removed by glacial attrition.

“One of the perplexing features of the glacial phenomena in the eastern counties of England is the extension of true chalky boulder-clay to the north London heights at Finchley and elsewhere; for only the faintest traces are to be found in the gravel deposits of the Thames Valley of any wash from such a deposit, or from a glacier carrying such materials.

“It has been suggested that the deposit may have been laid down in an extra-morainic lake, or in an extension of the North. Sea, but these suggestions leave the difficulty just where it was. If a lake or sea could exist without shores, a glacier-stream might equally dispense with banks. Within the area of glaciation, defined above, abundant evidence of the action of land-ice is obtainable, though striated surfaces are extremely rare—a fact attributable to the softness of the chalk and clays which occupy almost the whole area. Well-striated surfaces are found on the harder rocks, as, for example, on the oolitic limestone at Dunston, near Lincoln.

“Mr. Skertchly has remarked that the proofs of the action of land-ice are irrefragable. The Great Chalky Boulder-Clay covers an area of 3,000 square miles, and attains an altitude of 500 feet above the sea-level, thus bespeaking, if the product of icebergs, ‘an extensive gathering-ground of chalk, having an elevation of more than 500 feet. But where is it? Certainly not in Western Europe, for the chalk does not attain so great an elevation except in a few isolated spots.’[BR]

[BR] Geikie’s Great Ice Age, p. 360.

Fig. 44.—Diagram-section near Cromer (Woodward). 6. Gravel and sand (Middle Glacial) resting on contorted drift (loam, sand, and marl, with large included boulders of chalk); 5. Cromer till: 4. Laminated clay and sands (Leda myalis bed); 3. Fresh-water loams and sands: 3a. Black fresh-water bed of Runton (upper fresh-water bed); 2. Forest bed—laminated clays and sands, with roots and débris of wood, bones of mammalia, estuarine mollusca, etc., the upper part in places penetrated by rootlets (rootlet bed); 2a. Weybourn crag; 1. Chalk with flints; * Large included boulder of chalk.

“It has been further pointed out by Mr. Skertchly, that the condition of the flints in this deposit furnishes strong evidence that they could not have been carried by floating ice nor upon a glacier, for, in either of the latter events, there must have been some exposure to the weather, which, as he remarks, would have rendered them worthless to the makers of gun-flints, whereas they are now regularly collected for their use.

“The way in which the boulder-clay is related to the rocks upon which it rests is a conclusive condemnation of any theory of floating ice; for example, where it rests upon Oxford Clay, it contains the fossils characteristic of that formation, as it is largely made up of the clay itself. The exceptions to this rule are as suggestive as those cases which conform to it. Each outcrop yields material to the boulder-clay to the south westward, showing a pull-over from the northeast.

“One of the most remarkable features of the drift of this part of England is the inclusion of gigantic masses of rock transported for a short distance from their native outcrop, very often with so small a disturbance that they have been mapped as in situ. Examples of chalk-masses 800 feet in length, and of considerable breadth and thickness, have been observed in the cliffs near Cromer, in Norfolk, but they are by no means restricted to situations near the coast. One example is mentioned in which quarrying operations had been carried on for some years before any suspicion was aroused that it was merely an erratic. The huge boulders were probably dislodged from the parent rock by the thrust of a great glacier, which first crumbled the beds, then sheared off a prominent fold and carried it along. This explanation we owe to Mr. Clement Reid.[BS] The drift-deposits of this region frequently contain shells, but they rarely constitute what may be termed a consistent fauna, usually showing such an association as could only be found where some agent had been at work gathering together shells of different habitats and geological age.

[BS] See Geology of the Country around Cromer, and Geology of Holderness, Memoirs of Geological Survey of England and Wales.

Fig. 45.—Section at right angles to the cliff through the westerly chalk bluff at Trimingham, Norfolk, showing the manner in which chalk masses are incorporated into the till (Clement Reid). Scale, 250 fret to an inch. A. Level of low-water spring-tides; B. Chalk, with sandy bed at *; C. Forest-bed series, etc., seen in the cliffs a few yards north and south of this point; D. Cromer till, stiff lead-colored boulder-clay; E. Fine, chalky sands, much false-bedded; F. Contorted drift, brown bouldery-clay with marked bedding- or fluxion-structure; G. The bed, above the white line were seen and measured by more snow and measured by Mr. Reid; * Chalk seen in situ on beach.

“If the ice-sheet, instead of flowing over the beds, happens to plough into them or abut against them, it would bend up a boss of chalk, as at Beeston. A more extensive disturbance, like that at Trimingham drives before it a long ridge of the bads, and nips up the chalk, till, like a cloth creased by the sliding of a heavy book, it is folded into an inverted anticlinal. A slight increase of pressure, and the third stage is reached—the top of the anticlinal being entirely sheared off, the chalk boulder driven up an incline, and forced into the overlying boulder-clays.” (Clement Reid.)

“Attempts have been made to correlate the deposits over the whole area, but with very indifferent success. A consideration of the consequences of the invasion of the country by an ice-stream from the northeast will prepare us for any conceivable complication of the deposits.

“The main movement was against the drainage of the country, so that the ice-front must have been frequently in water. There would be aqueous deposition and erosion; the kneading up of morainic matter into ground-moraine; irregularities of distribution and deposition due to ice floating in an extra-morainic lake; flood-washes at different points of overflow; and other confusing causes, which make it rather matter for surprise that any order whatever is traceable.

“I now turn to the valley of the Trent. We find that it occupies such a position that it would be exposed, successively or simultaneously, to the action of ice-streams of most diverse origin. I have shown that the area to the westward of Lichfield was invaded at one period by a Welsh glacier, and at a subsequent one by the Irish Sea Glacier, and both of these streams entered the valley of the Trent or some of its affluents. From the eastward, again, the great North Sea Glacier encroached in like manner, carrying the Great Chalky Boulder-Clay even into the drainage area of the westward-flowing rivers near Coventry.

“The glacial geology of the Trent Valley from Burton to Nottingham has been ably dealt with by Mr. R. M. Deeley,[BT] who recognises a succession which may be generalised as follows: (1.) A lower series containing rocks derived from the Pennine chain; (2.) A middle series containing rocks from the eastward (chalky boulder-clay, etc.); and (3.) An upper series with Pennine rocks. Mr. Deeley thinks the Pennine débris may have been brought by glaciers flowing down the valleys of the Dove, the Wye, and the Derwent; but, while recognising the importance of the testimony adduced, especially that of the boulders, I am compelled to reserve judgment upon this point until something like moraines or other evidences of local glaciers can be shown in those valleys. In their upper parts there is not a sign of glaciation. Some of the deposits described must have been laid down by land-ice; while the conformation of the country shows that during some stages of glaciation a lake must have existed into which the different elements of the converging glaciers must have projected. This condition will account for the remarkable commingling of boulders observed in some of the deposits. Welsh, Cumbrian, and Scottish rocks occur in the western portion of the Trent Valley. The overflow of the extra-morainic lake would find its way into the valleys of the Avon and Severn, and may be taken to account for the abundance of flints in some of the gravels.

[BT] Quarterly Journal Geological Society, vol. xlii, p. 437.

“The Isle of Man.—This little island in mid-seas constituted in the early stages of the Glacial epoch an independent centre of glaciation, and from some of its valleys ice-streams undoubtedly descended to the sea; but with the growth of the great Irish Sea Glacier the native ice was merged in the invading mass, and at the climax of the period the whole island was completely buried, even to its highest peak (Snae Fell, 2,054 feet), beneath the ice. The effects of this general glaciation are clearly seen in the mantle of unstratified drift material which overspread the hills; in the moutonnée appearance of the entire island; and in the transport of boulders of local rocks. The striations upon rock surfaces show a constancy of direction in agreement with the boulder-transport which can be ascribed to no other agency than a great continuous sheet of such dimensions as to ignore minor hills and valleys.

“The disposition of the striæ is equally conclusive, for we find that on a stepped escarpment of limestone both the horizontal and the vertical faces are striated continuously and obliquely from the one on to the other, showing that the ice had a power of accommodating itself to the surface over which it passed that could not be displayed by floating ice. There is a remarkable fact concerning the distribution of boulders on this island which would strike the most superficial observers, namely, that foreign rocks are confined to the low grounds. It might be argued that the local ice always retained its individuality, and so kept the foreign ice with its characteristic boulders at bay. But, apart from the a priori improbability of so small a hill-cluster achieving what the Lake District could not accomplish, the fact that Snae Fell, an isolated conical hill, is swathed in drift from top to bottom, is quite conclusive that the foreign ice must have got in. Why, then, did it carry no stones with it? The following suggestion I make not without misgivings, though there are many facts to which I might appeal that seem strongly corroborative:

“The hilly axis of the island runs in a general northeast and southwest direction, and it rises from a great expanse of drift in the north with singular abruptness, some of the hills being almost inaccessible to a direct approach without actual climbing. I imagine that the ice which bore down upon the northern end of the island was, so far as its lower strata were concerned, unable to ascend so steep an acclivity, and was cleft, and flowed to right and left. The upper ice, being of ice-sheet origin, would be relatively clean, and this flowing straight over the top of the obstruction would glaciate the country with such material as was lying loose upon the ground or could be dislodged by mere pressure. It would appear from published descriptions that the Isle of Arran offers the same problem, and I would suggest the application of the same solution to it.

“Marine shells occur in the Manx drift, but only in such situations as were reached by the ice-laden with foreign stones. They present similar features of association of shells of different habitat, and perhaps of geological age, to those already referred to as being common characteristics of the shell-faunas of the drift of the mainland. Four extinct species of mollusca have been recognised by me in the Manx drift.

“The Manx drift is of great interest as showing, perhaps better than any locality yet studied, those features of the distribution of boulders of native rocks which attest so clearly the exclusive action of land-ice. There are in the island many highly characteristic igneous rocks, and I have found that boulders of these rocks never occur to the northward of the parent mass, and very rarely in any direction except to the southwest.

“Cumming observed in regard to one rock, the Foxdale granite, that whereas the highest point at which it occurs in situ was 657 feet above sea-level, boulders of it occurred in profusion within 200 feet of the summit of South Barrule (1,585 feet), a hill two miles only, in a southwesterly direction, from the granite outcrop.

“They also occur on the summit of Cronk-na-Irrey-Lhaa, 1,449 feet above sea-level. The vertical uplift has been 728 and 792 feet respectively.

“In the low grounds of the north of the island a finely developed terminal moraine extends in a great sweep so as to obstruct the drainage and convert thousands of acres of land into lake and morass, which is only now yielding to artificial drainage. Many fine examples of drumlin and esker mounds occur at low levels in different parts of the island; and it was remarked nearly fifty years ago by Cumming, that their long axes were parallel to the direction of ice-movement indicated by the striated surfaces and the transport of boulders.

“The foreign boulders are mainly from the granite mountains of Galloway, but there are many flints, presumably from Antrim, a very small number of Lake District rocks, and a remarkable rock containing the excessively rare variety of hornblende, Riebeckite. This has now been identified with a rock on Ailsa Crag, a tiny islet in the Frith of Clyde; and a Manx geologist, the Rev. S. N. Harrison, has discovered a single boulder of the highly characteristic pitchstone of Corriegills, in the Isle of Arran.

“The So-called Great Submergence.

“It may be convenient to adduce some additional facts which render the theory of a great submergence of the country south of the Cheviots untenable.

“The sole evidence upon which it rests is the occurrence of shells, mostly in an extremely fragmentary condition, in deposits occurring at various levels up to about 1,400 feet above sea-level: A little space may profitably be devoted to a criticism of this evidence.

“Moel Tryfaen (‘The Hill of the Three Rocks’).—This celebrated locality is on the first rise of the ground between the Menai Straits and the congeries of hills constituting ‘Snowdonia’; and when we look to the northward from the top of the hill (1,350 feet) we see the ground rising from the straits in a series of gentle undulations whose smooth contours would be found from a walk across the country to be due to the thick mask of glacial deposits which obliterates the harsher features of the solid rocks.

“The deposits on Moel Tryfaen are exposed in a slate-quarry on the northern aspect of the hill near the summit, and consist of two wedges of structureless boulder-clay, each thinning towards the top of the hill. The lower mass of clay, wherever it rests upon the rock, contains streaks and irregular patches of eccentric form, of sharp, perfectly angular fragments of slate; and the underlying rock may be seen to be crushed and broken, its cleavage-laminæ being thrust over from northwest to southeast—that is, up-hill. The famous ‘shell-bed’ is a thick series of sands and gravels interosculated with the clays on the slope of the hill, but occupying the entire section above the slate towards the top. The bedding shows unmistakable signs of the action of water, both regular stratification and false bedding being well displayed. The stones occurring in the clays are mainly if not entirely Welsh, including some from the interior of the country, and they are not infrequently of large size—two or three tons’ weight—and well scratched.

“The stones found in the sands and gravels include a great majority of local rocks, but besides these there have been recorded the following:

[BU] The altitude at which this rock occurs on Ailsa Craig has not been announced, so 1 have put it as the extreme height of the island.

“The shells in the Moel Tryfaen deposit have been fully described, so far as the enumeration of species and relative frequency are concerned, but little has been said as to their absolute abundance and their condition. The shells are extremely rare, and daring a recent visit a party of five persons, in an assiduous search of about two hours, succeeded in finding five whole shells and about two ounces of fragments. The opportunities for collecting are as good as could be desired. The sections exposed have an aggregate length of about a quarter of a mile, with a height varying from ten to twenty feet of the shelly portion; and besides this there are immense spoil-banks, upon whose rain-washed slopes fossil-collecting can be carried on under the most favorable conditions.

“I would here remark, that the occurrence of small seams of shelly material of exceptional richness has impressed collectors with the idea that they were dealing with a veritable shell-bed, when the facts would bear a very different interpretation. A fictitious abundance is brought about by a process of what may be termed ‘concentration,’ by the action of a gently flowing current of water upon materials of different sizes and different specific gravities. Shells when but recently vacated consist of materials of rather high specific gravity, penetrated by pores containing animal matter, so that the density of the whole mass is far below that of rocks in general, and hence a current too feeble to move pebbles would yet carry shells. Illustrations of this process may be observed upon any shore in the concentration of fragments of coal, corks, or other light material.

“Regarding the interpretation of these facts: The commonly received idea is, that the beds were laid down in the sea during a period of submergence, and that the shells lived, not perhaps on the spot, but somewhere near, and that the terminal curvature of the slate was produced by the grounding of icebergs which also brought the boulders. But if this hypothesis were accepted, it would be necessary to invest the flotation of ice with a constancy of direction entirely at variance with observed facts, for the phenomena of terminal curvature is shown" with perfect persistence of direction wherever the boulder-clay rests upon the rock; and, further, there is the highly significant fact, that neither the sands and gravels nor the rock upon which they rest show any signs of disturbance or contortion, such as must have been produced if floating ice had been an operative agent.

“The uplift of foreign rocks is equally significant; and when we take into account the great distances from which they have been borne and the frequency with which such an operation must have been repeated, the inadequacy becomes apparent of Darwin’s ingenious suggestion, that it might have been effected by a succession of uplifts by shore-ice during a period of slow subsidence; while the character and abundance of the molluscan remains invest with a species of irony the application of the term ‘shell-bed’ to the deposit.

“I now turn to the alternative explanation (see ante, [p. 145]), viz., that the whole of the phenomena were produced by a mass of land-ice which was forced in upon Moel Tryfaen from the north or northwest, overpowering any Welsh ice which obstructed its course. This view is in harmony with the observations regarding the ‘terminal curvature’ of the slates, the occurrence of sharp angular chips of slate in the boulder-clay, and the coincidence of direction of these indications of movement with the carry of foreign stones. The few shells and shell-crumbs in the sands and gravels would, upon this hypothesis, be the infinitesimal relics of huge shell-banks in the Irish Sea which were destroyed by the glacier and in part incorporated in its ground-moraine or involved in the ice itself. The sands and gravels would represent the wash which would take place wherever, by the occurrence of a ‘nunatak’ or by approach to the edge of the ice, water could have a free escape.

“Two principal objections have been urged to the land-ice explanation of the Moel Tryfaen deposits. An able critic asks, ‘Can, then, ice walk up-hill?’ To this we answer, Given a sufficient ‘head’ behind it, and ice can certainly achieve that feat, as every roche moutonnée proves. If it be granted that ice on the small scale can move up-hill, there is no logical halting-place between the uplift of ten or twenty feet to surmount a roche moutonnée, and an equally gradual elevation to the height of Moel Tryfaen. Furthermore, the inland ice of Greenland is known to extrude its ground-moraine on the ‘weather-side’ of the nunataks, and the same action would account for the material uplifted on Moel Tryfaen.

“The second objection brought forward was couched in somewhat these terms: ‘If the Lake District had its ice-sheet, surely Wales had one also. Could not Snowdonia protect the heart of its own domain?’ Of course, Wales had its ice-sheet, and the question so pointedly raised by the objector needs an answer; and though it is merely a question of how much force is requisite to overcome a certain resistance (both factors being unknown), still there are features in the case which render it specially interesting and at the same time comparatively easy of explanation. It seems rather like stating a paradox, yet the fact is, that it was the proximity of Snowdon which, in my opinion, enabled the foreign ice to invade Wales at that point.

“A glance at the map will show that the ‘radiant point’ of the Welsh ice was situated on or near Arenig Mawr, and that the great mass of Snowdon stands quite on the periphery of the mountainous regions of North Wales, so that it would oppose its bulk to fend off the native ice-sheet and prevent it from extending seaward in that direction.

Fig. 46.—Section across Wales to show the relationship of native to foreign ice.

“As a consequence, the only Welsh ice in position to obstruct the onward march of the invader would be such trifling valley-glaciers as could form on the western slopes of Snowdon itself.

“The peak of Snowdon is 3,570 feet above sea-level, and Arenig Mawr, 2,817 feet high, is eighteen miles to the eastward, and a broad, deep valley with unobstructed access to Cardigan Bay intervenes; so, if any ice from the central mass made its way over the Snowdonian range, it performed a much more surprising feat than that involved in the ascent of Moel Tryfaen from the westward.

“The profile shows in diagrammatic form the probable relations of the foreign to the native ice at the time when the Moel Tryfaen deposits were laid down.

“From what has been said regarding the great glaciers, it would seem that ice advanced upon the land from the seaward in several parts of the coast of England, Wales, and the Isle of Man. Now, it is in precisely those parts of the country, and those alone, that the remains of marine animals occur in the glacial deposits. If the dispersal of the shells found in the drift had been effected by the means I have suggested, it would follow, as an inevitable consequence, that wherever shells occur there should also be boulders which have been brought from beyond the sea. This I find to be the case, and in two instances the discovery of shells was preliminary to the extension of the boundaries of the known distribution of boulders of trans-marine origin.

“The officers of the Geological Survey some years ago observed the occurrence of ‘obscure fragments of marine shells’ in a deposit at Whalley, Lancashire, in which they could find only local rocks. One case such as this would be fatal to the theory of the remanié origin of the shells, but on visiting the section with Mr. W. A. Downham, I found, amongst the very few stones which occurred in the shell-bearing sand at the spot indicated, two well-marked examples of Cumbrian volcanic rocks, and, at a little distance, large boulders of Scottish granites.

“The second case is more striking. The announcement was made that shells had been found on a hill called Gloppa near Oswestry, in Shropshire, and, as it lay about five miles to the westward of Mackintosh’s boundary of the Irish Sea Glacier, and therefore well within the area of exclusively Welsh boulders, it furnished an excellent opportunity of putting the theory to the test. An examination of the boulders associated with the shells showed that the whole suite of Galloway and Cumbrian erratics such as belong to the Irish Sea Glacier were present in great abundance. Not only this, but in the midst of the series of shell-bearing gravels I observed a thin lenticular bed of greenish clay, which upon examination was found to be crowded with well-scratched specimens of Welsh rocks; but neither a morsel of shell nor a single pebble of a foreign rock could be found, either by a careful examination in the field or by washing the clay at home, and examining with a lens the sand and stones separated out.

“The fact that predictions such as these have been verified affords a very striking corroboration of the theory put forward; and, though shells cannot be found in every deposit in which they might, ex hypothesi, be found, yet the strict limitation of them to situations which conform to those assigned upon theoretical grounds cannot be ascribed to mere coincidence. If the land had ever been submerged during any part of the Glacial epoch to a depth of 1,400 feet, it is inconceivable that clear and indisputable evidence should not be found in abundance in the sheltered valleys of the Lake District and Wales, which would have been deep, quiet fiords, in which vast colonies of marine creatures would have found harbour, as they do in the deep lochs of Scotland to-day.

“It has been urged, in explanation of this absence of marine remains in the great hill-centres, that the ‘second glaciation’ might have destroyed them; but to do this would require that the ice should make a clean and complete sweep of all the loose deposits both in the hollows of the valleys and on the hill-sides, and further that it should destroy all the shells and all the foreign stones which floated in during the submergence. At the same time we should have to suppose that the drift which lay in the paths of the great glaciers was not subjected to any interference whatever. But, assuming that these difficulties were explained, there would still remain the fact that the valleys which have never been glaciated—as, for example, those of Derbyshire—show no signs whatever of any marine deposits, nor of marine action in any form whatever.

“The sea leaves other traces also, besides shells, of its presence in districts that have really been submerged, yet there are no signs whatever to be found of them in all England, except the post-glacial raised beaches. Furthermore, in all the area occupied by glacial deposits there are no true sea-beaches, no cliffs nor sea-worn caves, no barnacle-encrusted rocks, nor rocks bored by Pholas or Saxicava. Are we to believe that these never existed; or that, having existed, they have been obliterated by subsequent denudations? To make good the former proposition, it would be necessary as a preliminary to show that the movement of subsidence and re-elevation was so rapid, and the interval between so brief, that no time was allowed for any marine erosion to take place. If this were so, it would be the most stupendous catastrophe of which we have any geological record; but we are not left in doubt regarding the duration of the submerged condition, for the occurrence of forty feet of gravel upon the summits of the hills indicates plainly that, if they were accumulated by the sea, the land must have stood at that level for a very long period, amply sufficient for the formation of a well-marked coast-line.

“The alternative proposition, that post-glacial denudation had removed the traces of subsidence, is equally at variance with the evidence. Post-glacial denudation has left kames and drumlins, and all the other forms of glacial deposits, in almost perfect integrity; the small kettle-holes are not yet filled up; and it is therefore quite out of the question that the far more enduring features, such as sea-cliffs, shore platforms, and beaches, should have been destroyed.

“The only reasonable conclusion is, that these evidences of marine action never existed, because the land in glacial times was never depressed below its present level. If the level were different at all (as I think may have been the case on the western side of England), it was higher, and not lower.

“The details of the submergence hypothesis have, so far as I am aware, never been dealt with by its advocates, otherwise I cannot but think that it would have been abandoned long since. It has been stated in general terms that the subsidence was greatest in the north and diminished to zero in the south, but no attempt was made to trace the evidence of extreme subsidence across country and along the principal hill-ranges—in fact, to see how it varied in every direction.

“If we take a traverse of England, say from Flamborough Head upon the east to Moel Tryfaen on the west, and accept as evidence of submergence any true glacial deposits (except, as in the case of the interior of Wales, the deposits are obviously the effects of purely local glaciers and contain, therefore, no shells), we shall find that the subsidence, if any, must have been not simply differential but sporadic.

Fig. 47.—Section of the cliff on the east side of South Sea Landing, Flamborough Head. Scale, 120 feet to 1 inch; length of section 290 yards; average height, 125 feet. (See above map of moraine between Speeton and Flamborough.)
Explanation.—4. Brownish boulder-clay, a band of pebbles; 4a, in places about seven feet from top. 3. Washed gravel, with thin sand-seams, well-bedded, pebbles chiefly erratics. 2. “Basement” boulder-clay, with many included patches of sand, gravel, and silt; 2a, at B, one of these 2b contain shells. 1b. Sand and silt, overlying and in places interbedded with 1. 1. Rubble of angular and subangular chalk-blocks and gravel, with occasional erratic, passes partly into chalky boulder-clay, 1a. x. White chalk, without flints, surface much shaken.

“At Flamborough Head shelly drift attains an altitude of 400 feet, but half a mile from the coast the country is practically driftless even at lower levels. The Yorkshire Wolds were not submerged. On the western flanks of the wolds drift comes in at about 100 to 150 feet, and persists, probably, under the post-glacial warp, from which it again protrudes on the western side of the valley of the Ouse, and however the drift between there and the Pennine water-shed may be interpreted, it shows not a sign of marine origin; but, even granting that it did, we find that it does not reach within a thousand feet of the water-shed. When the water-shed is crossed, however, abundant glacial deposits are met with which are not to be differentiated from others at slightly lower levels which contain shells.

Fig. 48.—Enlarged section of the shelly sand and surrounding clay at B in preceding figure. Scale, 4 feet to 1 inch.
Explanation.—2. “Basement” boulder-clay. 2a. Pure compact blue and brown clay of aqueous origin, bedding contorted and nearly obliterated, but the mass is cut up by shearing planes. 2b. Irregular seam, and scattered streaks, of greenish-yellow sand with many marine shells. 2c. Patch of pale-yellow sand, different from 2b, without trace of fossils.

“If we suppose that the line of our traverse crosses the Pennine Chain at Heald Moor, we shall find that on the eastern side no traces of drift occur above about 300 feet; while the very summit of the water-shed is occupied by boulder-clay, and thence downward the trace is practically continuous, and at about 1,000 feet and downward the drift contains marine shells. Across the great plain of Lancashire and Cheshire the ‘marine’ drift is fully developed—though it may be remarked in parentheses that it contains a shallow-water fauna, albeit ex hypothesi deposited, in part at least, in a depth of 200 fathoms of water—and to the Welsh border at Frondeg, where it again reaches a water-shed at an altitude of 1,450 feet; but at 100 yards to the westward of the summit all traces of subsidence disappear, and through the centre of Wales no sign is visible; then we emerge on the western slopes at Moel Tryfaen, and they assume their fullest dimensions, though only to finish abruptly on the hill-top, and put in no appearance in the lower grounds which extend from there to the sea.

“The conclusions pointed to by the evidence (and, as I have endeavoured to show, all the evidence which existed at the close of the Glacial period is there still) are, that a subsidence of the Yorkshire Wolds took place on the east, but not in the centre or west; that the Pennine Chain was submerged on the western side to a depth of 1,400 feet, and on the east to not more than 300 feet, even on opposite sides of the same individual hill; that all the lowlands between, say, Bacup and the Welsh border, were submerged, and that the hills near Frondeg partook of this movement, but only on their eastern sides; that the centre of Wales was exempt, but that the summit of Moel Tryfaen forms an isolated spot submerged, while the surrounding country escaped. These absurdities might be indefinitely multiplied, and they must follow unless it be admitted that the phenomena are the results of glacial ice, and that ice can move ‘up-hill.’

“The south of England certainly has partaken of no movement of subsidence. A line drawn from Bristol to London will leave all the true glacial deposits to the northward, except a bed of very questionable boulder-clay at Watchet, and a peculiar deposit of clayey rubble which has been produced on the flanks of the Cornish hills probably, as the late S. V. Wood, Jr, suggested, by the slipping of material over a permanently frozen subsoil.

“For the remainder of the southern area the evidence is plain that there has been no considerable subsidence during glacial times. The presence over large areas of chalk country of the ‘clay with flints’—a deposit produced by the gradual solution of the chalk and the accumulation in situ of its insoluble residue—is absolute demonstration that for immense periods of time the country has been exempt from any considerable aqueous action. The enormous accumulations of china clay upon the granite bosses of Cornwall and Devon tell the same tale. A few erratics have been found at low levels at various points on the southern coasts, usually not above the reach of the waves. These consist of rocks which may have been floated by shore-ice from the Channel Islands or the French coast.

“This imperfect survey of the evidence against the supposed submergence has been rendered the more difficult by the fact that it is not considered necessary to produce the evidence of marine shells in all cases. Indeed, it has been argued that post-Tertiary beds covering thousands of square miles might be absolutely destitute of shells without prejudice to the theory of their formation in the sea.

“But such a suggestion, one would think, could hardly come from anyone familiar with marine Tertiary deposits, or even with the appearance of modern sea-beaches. Admitting, however, for the purposes of argument, that the beaches along a great extent of coast might be devoid of shells, it cannot be argued that the deep waters were destitute of life; and hence the boulder-clays, if of marine origin, should contain a great abundance of shells and other remains, and, once entombed, it is beyond belief that they could all be removed from such a deposit in the short lapse of post-glacial time.

“Now, some of the boulder-clays—as, for example, those of Lancashire and Cheshire—are held to be of marine origin, and this is indeed a vital necessity to the submergence theory; for, if these are not marine deposits, neither are the other shelly deposits; but these boulder-clays are absolutely indistinguishable from those lying within the hill-centres, and, as it passes belief that such deposits could be of diverse origin and yet possess an identical structure and arrangement, then we should have a right to demand that these clays should have enclosed shells and should still contain them, but they do not.

“I may here mention that I am informed by Mr. W. Shone, F. G. S.—and he was good enough to permit me to quote the statement—that the boulder-clay of Cheshire and the shelly boulder-clay of Caithness are ‘as like as two peas.’ The importance of this comparison lies in the fact that, since Croll’s classical description, all observers have agreed that it was the product of land-ice which moved in upon the land out of the Dornoch Firth. It was pointed out then, as since has been done for England, that it was only where the direction of ice-movement was from the seaward that any shells occur in the boulder-clay.

“The Dispersion of Erratics of Shap Granite.—So great a significance attaches to the peculiar distribution of this remarkable rock, that I may add a few details here which could not be conveniently introduced elsewhere.

“This granite occupies an area which lies just to the northward of the water-shed between the basins of the Lime and the Eden, and its extreme elevation is 1,656 feet. Boulders occur in large numbers as far to the northward as Cross Fells, while, as already described, they pass over Stainmoor and are dispersed in great numbers along the route taken by the great Stainmoor branch of the Solway Glacier. But a considerable number of the boulders also found their way to the southward, and a well-marked trail can be followed down into Morecambe Bay; and at Hest Bank, to the north of Lancaster, the boulder-clay contains many examples, together with the ‘mica-trap’ of the Kendal and Sedbergh dykes and other local rocks, but no shells or erratics from other sources than the country draining into Morecambe Bay. To the southward the ice which bore these rocks was deflected by the great Irish Sea Glacier, and, so far as present information enables me to state, the Shap granite blocks mark the course of the medial moraine between these two ice-streams. It has been found near Garstang, at Longridge, and at Whalley, this being the exact line of junction of the Irish Sea Glacier with the ice from Morecambe Bay and the Pennine Chain.

“It is a very remarkable and significant fact, that not a single authentic occurrence of the rock across the boundary indicated has yet been recorded.”

Northern Europe.

On passing over the shallow German Sea from England to the Continent, the southern border of the Scandinavian ice-field is found south of the Zuyder Zee, between Utrecht and Arnhem—the moraine hills in the vicinity of Arnhem being quite marked, and a barren, sandy plain dotted with boulders and irregular moraine hills extending most of the way to the Zuyder Zee. From Arnhem the southern boundary of the great ice-field runs “eastward across the Rhine Valley, along the base of the Westphalian Hills, around the projecting promontory of the Hartz, and then southward through Saxony to the roots of the Erzgebirge. Passing next southeastward along the flanks of the Riesen and Sudeten chain, it sweeps across Poland into Russia, circling round by Kiev, and northward by Nijni-Novgorod towards the Urals.”[BV] Thence the boundary passes northward to the Arctic Ocean, a little east of the White Sea.

[BV] A. Geikie’s Text-Book of Geology, p. 885.

The depth of this northern ice-sheet is proved to have been upwards of 1,400 feet where it met the Hartz Mountains, for it has deposited northern débris upon them to that height; while, as already shown, it must have been over 2,000 feet in the main valley of Switzerland. In Norway it is estimated that the ice was between 6,000 and 7,000 feet thick.

The amount of work done by the continental glaciers of Europe in the erosion, transportation, and deposition of rock and earthy material is immense. According to Helland, the average depth of the glacial deposits over North Germany and northwestern Russia is 150 German feet, i. e., about 135 English feet. As the deposition towards the margin of a glacier must be commensurate with its erosion near the centre of movement, this vast amount implies a still greater proportionate waste in the mountains of Scandinavia, where the area diminishes with every contraction of the circle. Two hundred and fifty feet is therefore not an extravagant calculation for the amount of glacial erosion in the Scandinavian Peninsula.

It is not difficult to see how the Scandinavian mountains were able to contribute so much soil to the plains of northern Germany and northwestern Russia. Previous to the Glacial period, a warm climate extended so far north as to permit the growth of semi-tropical vegetation in Spitsbergen, Greenland, and the northern shores of British America. Such a climate, with its abundant moisture and vegetation, afforded most favourable conditions for the superficial disintegration of the rocks. When, therefore, the cold of the Glacial period came on, the moving currents of ice would have a comparatively easy task in stripping the mantle of soil from the hills of Norway and Sweden, and transporting it towards the periphery of its movement. Of course, erosion in Scandinavia meant subglacial deposition beyond the Baltic. Doubtless, therefore, the plains of northern Germany, with their great depth of soil, are true glacial deposits, whose inequalities of surface have since been much obliterated, through the general influences of the lapse of time, and by the ceaseless activity of man.

An interesting series of moraines in the north of Germany, bordering the Baltic Sea, was discovered in 1888 by Professor Salisbury, of the United States Geological Survey. Its course lies through Schleswig-Holstein, Mecklenburg, Potsdam (about forty miles north of Berlin), thence swinging more to the north, and following nearly the line between Pomerania and West Prussia, crossing the Vistula about twenty miles south of Dantzic, thence easterly to the Spirding See, near the boundary of Poland.

Among the places where this moraine can be best seen are—“1. In Province Holstein, the region about (especially north of) Eutin; 2. Province Mecklenburg, north of Crivitz, and between Bütow and Kröpelin; 3. Province Brandenburg, south of Reckatel, between Strassen and Bärenbusch, south of Fürstenberg and north of Everswalde, and between Pyritz and Solden; 4. Province Posen, east of Locknitz, and at numerous points to the south, and especially about Falkenburg, and between Lompelburg and Bärwalde. This is one of the best localities. 5. Province West Preussen, east of Bütow; 6. Province Ost Preussen, between Horn and Widikin.”

Comparing these with the moraines of America, Professor Salisbury remarks:

“In its composition from several members, in its variety of development, in its topographic relations, in its topography, in its constitution, in its associated deposits, and in its wide separation from the outermost drift limit, this morainic belt corresponds to the extensive morainic belt of America, which extends from Dakota to the Atlantic Ocean. That the one formation corresponds to the other does not admit of doubt. In all essential characteristics they are identical in character. What may be their relations in time remains to be determined.”

Fig. 49.—Map showing the glaciated area of Europe according to J. Geikie, and the moraines in Britain and Germany according to Lewis and Salisbury.

The physical geography of Europe is so different from that of America, that there was a marked difference in the secondary or incidental effects of the Glacial period upon the two regions. In America the continental area over which the glaciers spread is comparatively simple in its outlines. East of the Rocky Mountains, as we have seen, the drainage of the Glacial period was, for a time, nearly all concentrated in the Mississippi basin, and the streams had a free course southward.

But in Europe there was no free drainage to the south, except over a small portion of the glaciated area in central Russia, about the head-waters of the Dnieper, the Don, and the Volga; though the Danube and the Rhône afforded free course for the waters of a portion of the great Alpine glaciers. But all the great rivers of northern Europe flow to the northward, and, with the exception of the Seine, they all for a time encountered the front of the continental ice-sheet. This circumstance makes it difficult to distinguish closely between the direct glacial deposits in Europe and those which are more or less modified by water-action. At first sight it would seem also somewhat hazardous to attempt to correlate with any portion of the Glacial period the deposition of the gravelly and loamy deposits in valleys, which, like those of the Seine and Somme, lie entirely outside of the glaciated area.

Upon close examination, however, the elements of doubt more and more disappear. The Glacial period was one of great precipitation, and it is natural to suppose that the area of excessive snow-fall extended considerably beyond the limit of the ice-front. During that period therefore, the rivers of central France must have been annually flooded to an extent far beyond anything which is known at the present time. Since these rivers flowed to the northward, at a period when, during the long and severe winters, the annual accumulation of ice near their mouths was excessive, ice-gorges of immense extent, such as now form about the mouths of the Siberian rivers, would regularly occur. We are not surprised, therefore, to find, even in these streams, abundant indications of the indirect influence of the great northern ice-sheet.

The indications referred to consist of high-level gravel terraces occasionally containing boulders, of from four to five tons weight, which have been transported for a considerable distance. The elevation of the terraces above the present flood-plains of the Seine and Somme reaches from 100 to 150 feet. We are not to suppose, however, that even in glacial times the floods of the river Seine could have filled its present valley to that height. The highest flood in this river known in historic times rose only to a height of twenty-nine feet. Mr. Prestwich estimates that, without taking into consideration the more rapid discharge, a flood of sixty times this magnitude would be required to fill the present valley to the level of the ancient gravels, while at Amiens the shape of the valley of the Somme is such that five hundred times the mean average of the stream would be required to reach the high-level gravels. The conclusion, therefore, is that the troughs of these streams have been largely formed by erosion since the deposition of the high-level gravels.

Connected with these terrace gravels in northern France is a loamy deposit, corresponding to the loess in other parts of Europe, and to a similar deposit to which we have referred in describing the southwestern part of the glaciated area in North America. In northern France this fine silt overlies the high-level gravel deposits, and, as Mr. Prestwich has pretty clearly shown, was deposited contemporaneously with them during the early inundations and before the stream had eroded its channel to its present level.

The distribution of loess in Europe was doubtless connected with the peculiar glacial conditions of the continent. Its typical development is in the valley of the Rhine, where it is described by Professor James Geikie “as a yellow or pale greyish-brown, fine-grained, and more or less homogeneous, consistent, non-plastic loam, consisting of an intimate admixture of clay and carbonate of lime. It is frequently minutely perforated by long, vertical, root-like tubes which are lined with carbonate of lime—a structure which imparts to the loess a strong tendency to cleave or divide in vertical planes. Thus it usually presents upright bluffs or cliffs upon the margins of streams and rivers which intersect it. Very often it contains concretions or nodules of irregular form.... Land-shells and the remains of land animals are the most common fossils of the loess, but occasionally fresh-water shells and the bones of fresh-water fish occur.”

“From the margins of the modern alluvial flats which form the bottoms of the valleys it rises to a height of 200 or 300 feet above the streams—sweeping up the slopes of the valleys, and imparting a rich productiveness to many districts which would otherwise be comparatively unfruitful. From the Rhienthal itself it extends into all the tributary valleys—those of the Neckar, the Main, the Lahn, the Moselle, and the Meuse, being more or less abundantly charged with it. It spreads, in short, like a great winding-sheet over the country—lying thickly in the valleys and dying off upon the higher slopes and plateaux. Wide and deep accumulations appear likewise in the Rhône Valley, as also in several other river-valleys of France, as in those of the Seine, the Saône, and the Garonne, and the same is the case with many of the valleys of middle Germany, such as those of the Fulda, the Werra, the Weser, and the upper reaches of the great basin of the Elbe. It must not be supposed that the loess is restricted to valleys and depressions in the surface of the ground.

“It is true that it attains in these its greatest thickness, but extensive accumulations may often be followed far into the intermediate hilly districts and over the neighbouring plateaux. Thus the Odenwald, the Taunus, the Vogelgebirge, and other upland tracts, are cloaked with loess up to a considerable height. Crossing into the drainage system of the Danube, we find that this large river and many of its tributaries flow through vast tracts of loess. Lower Bavaria is thickly coated with it, and it attains a great development in Bohemia, Upper and Lower Austria, and Moravia—in the latter country rising to an elevation of 1,300 feet. It is equally abundant in Hungary, Galicia, Bukowina, and Transylvania. From the Danubian flat lands and the low grounds of Galicia it stretches into the valleys of the Carpathians, up to heights of 800 and 2,000 feet. In some cases it goes even higher—namely, to 3,000 feet, according to Zeuschner, and to 4,000 or 5,000 feet, according to Korzistka. These last great elevations, it will be understood, are in the upper valleys of the northern Carpathians. In Roumania loess is likewise plentiful, but it has not been observed south of the Balkans. East of the Carpathians—that is to say, in the regions watered by the Dniester, the Dnieper, and the Don—loess appears also to be wanting, and to be represented by those great steppe-deposits which are known as Tchernozen, or black earth.”[BW]

[BW] Prehistoric Europe, pp. 144-146.

The shells found in the loess indicate both a colder and a wetter climate during its deposition than that which now exists. The relics of land animals are infrequently found in the deposit, yet they do occur, but mostly in fragmentary condition—the principal animals represented being the mammoth, the rhinoceros, the reindeer, and the horse; which is about the same variety as is found in the gravel deposits of the Glacial period, both in western Europe and in America.

A species of loess—differing, however, somewhat in color from that on the Rhine—covers the plains of northeastern France up to an elevation of 700 feet above the the sea, where, as we have already said, it overlies the high-level gravels of the Seine and the Somme. Above this height the superficial soil in France is evidently merely the decomposed upper surface of the native rock.

The probable explanation of all these deposits, included under the term “loess,” is the same as that already given by Prestwich of the loamy deposits of northern France. But in case of rivers, which, like the Rhine, encountered the ice-front in their northward flow, a flooded condition favouring the accumulation of loess was doubtless promoted by the continental ice-barrier. In the case of the Danube and the Rhône, however, where there was a free outlet away from the glaciated region, the loess in the upper part of the valleys must have accumulated in connection with glacial floods quite similar to those which we have described as spreading over the imperfectly formed water-courses of the Mississippi basin during the close of the Ice age. That the typical loess is of glacial origin is pretty certainly shown, both by its distribution in front of glaciers and by its evident mechanical origin when studied under the microscope. It is, in short, the fine sediment which gives the milky whiteness to glacial rivers.

In central Russia there is a considerable area in which the glacial conditions were, in one respect, similar to those in the northern part of the Mississippi Valley in the United States. In both regions the continental ice-sheet surmounted the river partings, and spread over the upper portion of an extensive plain whose drainage was to the south. The Dnieper, the Don, and the western branch of the Volga, like the Ohio and the Mississippi, have their head-waters in the glaciated region. In some other respects, also, there is a resemblance between the plains bordering the glaciated region in central Russia and those which in America border it in the Mississippi Valley. Mr. James Geikie is of the opinion that the extensive belt of black earth adjoining the glaciated area in Russia, and constituting the most productive agricultural portion of the country, derives its fertility, as does much of the Mississippi Valley, from the blanket of glacial silt spread pretty evenly over it. Thus it would appear that in Europe, as in America, the ice of the Glacial period was a most beneficent agent, preparing the face of the earth for the permanent occupation of man. On both continents the seat of empire is in the area once occupied by the advance of the great ice-movements of that desolate epoch.

Asia.

East of the Urals, in northern Asia, there is no evidence of moving ice upon the land during the Glacial period; but at Yakutsk, in latitude 62° north, the soil is frozen at the present time to an unknown depth, and many of the Siberian rivers, as they approach and empty into the Arctic Sea, flow between cliffs of perpetual ice or frozen ground. The changes that came over this region during the Glacial period are impressively indicated by the animal remains which have been preserved in these motionless icy cliffs. In the early part of the period herds of mammoth and woolly rhinoceros roamed over the plains of Siberia, and waged an unequal warfare with the slowly converging and destructive forces. The heads and tusks of these animals were so abundant in Siberia that they long supplied all Russia with ivory, besides contributing no small amount for export to other countries. “In 1872 and 1873 as many as 2,770 mammoth-tusks, weighing from 140 to 160 pounds each, were entered at the London clocks.”[BX] So perfectly have the carcasses of these extinct animals been preserved in the frozen soil of northern Siberia that when, after the lapse of thousands of years, floods have washed them out from the frozen cliffs, dogs and wolves and bears have fed upon their flesh with avidity. In some instances even “portions of the food of these animals were found in the cavities of the teeth. Microscopic examination showed that they fed upon the leaves and shoots of the coniferous trees which then clothed the plains of Siberia.” A skeleton and parts of the skin, and some of the softer portions of the body of a mammoth, discovered in 1799 in the frozen cliff near the mouth of the Lena, was carried to St. Petersburg in 1806, from which it was ascertained that this huge animal was “covered with alight-coloured, curly, very thick-set hair one to two inches in length, interspersed with darker-colored hair and bristles from four to eighteen inches long.”[BY]

[BX] Prestwich’s Geology, vol. ii, p. 460.

[BY] Prestwich’s Geology, vol. ii, p. 460.

In the valleys of Sikkim and eastern Nepaul, in northern India, glaciers formerly extended 6,000 feet lower than now, or to about the 5,000-foot level, and in the western Himalayas to a still lower level. The higher ranges of mountains in other portions of Asia also show many signs of former glaciation. This is specially true of the Caucasus, where the ancient glaciers were of vast extent. According, also, to Sir Joseph Hooker, the cedars of Lebanon flourish upon an ancient moraine. Of the glacial phenomena in other portions of Asia little is known.

Africa.

Northern and even central Africa must likewise come in for their share of attention. The Atlas Mountains, rising to a height of 13,000 feet, though supporting none at the present time, formerly sustained glaciers of considerable size. Moraines are found in several places as low as the 4,000-foot level, and one at an altitude of 4,000 feet is from 800 to 900 feet high, and completely crosses and dams up the ravine down which the glacier formerly came.

Some have supposed that there are indubitable evidences of former glaciation in the mountain-ranges of southwestern Africa between latitude 30° and 33°, but the evidence is not as unequivocal as we could wish, and we will not pause upon it.

The mountains of Australia, also, some of which rise to a height of more than 7,000 feet, are supposed to have been once covered with glacial ice down to the level of 5,800 feet, but the evidence is at present too scanty to build upon. But in New Zealand the glaciers now clustering about the peaks in the middle of the South Island, culminating in Mount Cook, are but diminutive representatives of their predecessors. This is indicated by extensive moraines in the lower part of the valleys and by the existence of numerous lakes, attributable, like so many in Europe and North America, to the irregular deposition of morainic material by the ancient ice-sheet.[BZ]

[BZ] See With Axe and Rope in the New Zealand Alps, by G. E. Mannering, 1891.

[CHAPTER VII.]

DRAINAGE SYSTEMS AND THE GLACIAL PERIOD.

We will begin the consideration of this part of our subject, also, with the presentation of the salient facts in North America, since that field is simpler than any field in the Old World.

The natural drainage basins of North America east of the Rocky Mountains are readily described. The Mississippi River and its branches drain nearly all the region lying between the Appalachian chain and the Rocky Mountains and south of the Dominion of Canada and of the Great Lakes. All the southern tributaries to the Great Lakes are insignificant, the river partings on the south being reached in a very short distance. The drainage of the rather limited basin of the Great Lakes is northeastward through the St. Lawrence River, leaving nearly all of the Dominion of Canada east of the Rocky Mountains to pour its surplus waters northward into Hudson Bay and the Arctic Ocean. With the exception of the St. Lawrence River, these are essentially permanent systems of drainage. To understand the extent to which the ice of the Glacial period modified these systems, we must first get before our minds a picture of the country before the accumulation of ice began.

Preglacial Erosion.

Reference has already been made to the elevated condition of the northern and central parts of North America at the beginning of the Glacial period. The direct proof of this preglacial elevation is largely derived from the fiords and great lake basins of the continent. The word “fiord” is descriptive of the deep and narrow inlets of the sea specially characteristic of the coasts of Norway, Denmark. Iceland, and British Columbia. Usually also fiords are connected with valleys extending still farther inland, and occupied by streams.

Fiords are probably due in great part to river erosion when the shores stood at considerably higher level than now. Slowly, during the course of ages, the streams wore out for themselves immense gorges, and were assisted, perhaps, to some extent by the glaciers which naturally came into existence during the higher continental elevation. The present condition of fiords, occupied as they usually are by great depths of sea-water, would be accounted for by recent subsidence of the land. In short, fiords seem essentially to be submerged river gorges, partially silted up near their mouths, or perhaps partially closed by terminal moraines.

It is not alone in northwestern Europe and British Columbia that fiords are found, but they characterize as well the eastern coast of America north of Maine, while even farther south, both on the Atlantic and on the Pacific coast, some extensive examples exist, whose course has been revealed only to the sounding-line of the Government survey.

The most remarkable of the submerged fiords in the middle Atlantic region of the United States is the continuation of the trough of Hudson River beyond New York Bay. As long ago as 1844 the work of the United States Coast Survey showed that there was a submarine continuation of this valley, extending through the comparatively shallow waters eighty miles or more seaward from Sandy Hook.

Fig. 50.—Map showing old channel and mouth of the Hudson (dewberry).

The more accurate surveys conducted from 1880 to 1884 have brought to our knowledge the facts about this submarine valley almost as clearly as those relating to the inland portion of it above New York city. According to Mr. A. Lindenkohl,[CA] this submarine valley began to be noticeable in the soundings ten miles southeast of Sandy Hook. The depth of the water where the channel begins is nineteen fathoms (114 feet). Ten miles out the channel has sunk ninety feet below the general depth of the water on the bank, and continues at this depth for twenty miles farther. This narrow channel continues with more or less variation for a distance of seventy-five miles, where it suddenly enlarges to a width of three miles and to a depth of 200 fathoms, or 1,200 feet, and extends for a distance of twenty-five miles, reaching near that point a depth of 474 fathoms, or 2,844 feet. According to Mr. Lindenkohl, this ravine maintains for half its length "a vertical depth of more than 2,000 feet, measuring from the top of its banks, and the banks have a nearly uniform slope of about 14°.” The mouth of the ravine opens out into the deep basin of the central Atlantic.

[CA] Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. i, p. 564; American Journal of Science, June, 1891.

With little question there is brought to light in these remarkable investigations a channel eroded by the extension of the Hudson River, into the bordering shelf of the Atlantic basin at a time when the elevation of the continent was much greater than now. This is shown to have occurred in late Tertiary or post-Tertiary times by the fact that the strata through which it is worn are the continuation of the Tertiary deposits of New Jersey. The subsidence to its present level has probably been gradual, and, according to Professor Cook, is still continuing at the rate of two feet a century.

Similar submarine channels are found extending out from the present shore-line to the margin of the narrow shelf bordering the deep water of the central Atlantic running from the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, through St. Lawrence Bay, and through Delaware and Chesapeake Bays.[CB] All these submerged fiords on the Atlantic coast were probably formed during a continental elevation which commenced late in the Tertiary period, and reached the amount of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet in the northern part of the continent.

[CB] See Lindenkohl in American Journal of Science, for June, 1891.

Fig. 51.—New York harbor in preglacial times looking south, from south end of New York Island (Newberry).

To this period must probably be referred also the formation of the gorge, or more properly fiord, of the Saguenay, which joins the St. Lawrence below Quebec. The great depth of this fiord is certainly surprising, since, according to Sir William Dawson, its bottom, for fifty miles above the St. Lawrence, is 840 feet below the sea-level, while the bordering cliffs are in some places 1,500 feet above the water. The average width is something over a mile.

It seems impossible to account for such a deep gorge extending so far below the sea-level, except upon the supposition of a long-continued continental elevation, which should allow the stream to form a cañon to an extent somewhat comparable with that of the cañons of the Colorado and other rivers in the far West. Then, upon the subsidence of the continent to the present level, it would remain partially or wholly submerged, as we find it at the present time. During the Glacial period it was so filled with ice as to prevent silting up. The rivers entering the Pacific Ocean, both in the United States and in British Columbia, are also lost in submerged channels extending out to the deeper waters of the Pacific basin in a manner closely similar to the Atlantic streams which have been mentioned.

During this continental elevation which preceded, accompanied, and perhaps brought on the Glacial period, erosion must have proceeded with great intensity along all the lines of drainage, and throughout the whole region which is now covered, and to a considerable extent smoothed over, by glacial deposits, and the whole country must have presented a very different appearance from what it does now.

A pretty definite idea of its preglacial condition can probably be formed by studying the appearance of the regions outside of and adjoining that which was covered by the continental glacier. The contrast between the glaciated and the unglaciated region is striking in several respects aside from the presence and absence of transported rocks and other débris, but in nothing is it greater than in the extent of river erosion which is apparent upon the surface. For example, upon the western flanks of the Alleghanies the regions south of the glacial limit is everywhere deeply channeled by streams. Indeed, so long have they evidently been permitted to work in their present channels that, wherever there have been waterfalls, they have receded to the very head-waters, and no cataracts exist in them at the present time. Nor are there in the unglaciated region any lakes of importance, such as characterize the glaciated region. If there have been lakes, the lapse of time has been sufficient for their outlets to lower their beds sufficiently to drain the basins dry.

On entering the glaciated area all this is changed. The ice-movement has everywhere done much to wear down the hills and fill the valleys, and, where there was débris enough at command, it has obliterated the narrow gorges originally occupied by the preglacial streams. Thus it has completely changed the minor lines of superficial drainage, and in many instances has produced most extensive and radical changes in the whole drainage system of the region. In the glaciated area, channels buried beneath glaciated débris are of frequent occurrence, while many of the streams which occupy their preglacial channels are flowing at a very much higher level than formerly, the lower part of the channel having been silted up by the superabundant débris accessible since the glacial movement began.

Buried Outlets and Channels.

It is easy to see how the great number of shallow lakes which frequent the glaciated region were formed by the irregular deposition of glacial débris, but it is somewhat more difficult to trace out the connection between the Glacial period and the Great Lakes of North America, several of which are of such depth that their bottoms are some hundreds of feet below the sea-level, Lake Erie furnishing the only exception. This lake is so shallow that it is easy to see how its basin may have been principally formed by river erosion, while it is evident that such must have been the mode of its formation, since it is surrounded by sedimentary strata lying nearly in a horizontal position.

Fig. 52.—Section across the valley of the Cuyahoga River, twenty miles above its mouth (Claypole).

That Lake Erie is really nothing but a “glacial mill-pond” is proved also by much direct evidence, especially that derived from the depth of the buried channels of the streams flowing into it from the south. Of these, the Cuyahoga River, which enters the lake at Cleveland, has been most fully investigated. In searching for oil, some years ago, borings were made at many places for twenty-five miles above the mouth of the river. As a result, it appeared that for the whole distance the rocky bottom of the gorge was about two hundred feet below the present bottom of the river, while the river itself is two or three hundred feet below the general level of the country, occupying a trough about half a mile in width, with steep, rocky sides. These facts indicate that at one time the river must have found opportunity to discharge its contents at a level two hundred feet below that of the present lake, while an examination of the material filling up the bottom of the gorge to its present level shows it to be glacial débris, thus proving that the silting up was accomplished during the Glacial period.

As the water of Lake Erie is for the most part less than one hundred feet in depth, and is nowhere much more than two hundred feet deep, it is clear that the preglacial outlet which drained it down to the level of the rocky bottom of the Cuyahoga River must have destroyed the lake altogether. Hence Ave may be certain that, before the Glacial period, the area now covered by the lake was simply a broad, shallow valley through which there coursed a single river of great magnitude, with tributary branches occupying deep gorges. Professor J. W. Spencer has shown with great probability that the old line of drainage from Lake Erie passed through the lower part of the valley of Grand River, in Canada, and entered Lake Ontario at its western extremity, and that during the great Ice age this became so completely obstructed with glacial débris as to form an impenetrable dam, and to cause the pent-up water to flow through the Niagara Valley, which chanced to furnish the lowest opening.

In speaking of the present area of Lake Erie, however, as being then occupied by a river valley, we do not mean to imply that it was not afterwards greatly modified by glacial erosion; for undoubtedly this was the case, whatever views we may have as to the relative efficiency of ice and water in scooping out lake basins.

In the case of Lake Erie, we need suppose no change of level to account for the erosion of its basin, but only that, since the strata in which it is situated were deposited, time enough had elapsed for a great river to cut a gorge extending from the western end of Lake Ontario through to the present bed of Lake Erie, and that here a great enlargement of the valley was occasioned by the existence of deep beds of soft shale which could easily be worn away by a ramifying system of tributary streams. Rivers acting at present relative levels would be amply sufficient to produce the results which are here manifest.

But in the case of Lakes Ontario, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, whose depths descend considerably below the sea-level, we must suppose that they were, in the main, eroded when the continent was so much elevated that their bottoms were brought above tide-level. The depth of Lake Ontario implies the existence of an outlet more than four hundred feet lower than at present, which, of course, could exist only when the general elevation was more than four hundred feet greater than now.

The existence of an outlet at that depth seems to be proved also by the fact that at Syracuse, where numerous wells have been sunk to obtain brine for the manufacture of salt, deposits of sand, gravel, and rolled stones, four hundred and fifty feet thick, are penetrated without reaching rock. Since this lies in the basin of Lake Ontario, it follows that if the basin itself has been produced by river erosion, the land must have been of sufficient height to permit an outlet through a valley, or cañon, of the required depth, and this outlet must now be buried beneath the abundant glacial débris that covers the region.

Professor Newberry, who has studied the vicinity carefully, is of the opinion that there is ample opportunity for such a line of drainage to have extended through the Mohawk Valley to the Hudson River. But, at Little Falls, a spur of the Adirondack Mountains projects into the valley, and the Archæan rocks over which the river runs are so prominent and continuous that some have thought it impossible for the requisite channel to have ever existed there. Extensive deposits of glacial débris, however, are found in the vicinity, especially in places some distance to the north, and in Professor Newberry’s opinion the existence of a buried channel around the obstruction upon the north side is by no means improbable.

The preglacial drainage of Lake Huron has not been determined with any great degree of probability. Professor Spencer formerly supposed that it passed from the southern end of the lake through London, in the western part of Ontario, and reached the Erie basin near Port Stanley, and so augmented the volume of the ancient river which eroded the buried cañon from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. But he now supposes, though the evidence is by no means demonstrative, that the waters of Lake Huron passed into Lake Ontario by means of a channel extending from Georgian Bay to the vicinity of Toronto.

With a fair degree of probability, the basin of Lake Superior is supposed by Professor Newberry to have been joined to that of Lake Michigan by some passage, now buried, considerably to the west of the Strait of Mackinac, and thence to have had an outlet southward from the vicinity of Chicago directly into the Mississippi River. Of this there is considerable evidence furnished by deeply buried channels which have been penetrated by borings in various places in Kankakee, Livingston, and McLean Counties, Illinois; but the whole area extending from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi is so deeply covered with glacial débris that the surface of the country gives no satisfactory indication of the exact lines of preglacial drainage.

Some of the most remarkable instances of ancient river channels buried by the glacial deposits have been brought to light in southwestern Ohio, where there has been great activity in boring for gas and oil. At St. Paris, Champaign County, for example, in a locality where the surface of the rock near by was known to be not far below the general level, a boring was begun and continued to a depth of more than five hundred feet without reaching rock, or passing out of glacial débris.

Many years ago Professor Newberry collected sufficient facts to show that pretty generally the ancient bed of the Ohio River was as much as 150 feet below that over which it now flows. During a continental elevation the erosion had proceeded to that extent, and then the channel had been silted up during the Glacial period with the abundant material carried down by the streams from the glaciated area. One of the evidences of the preglacial depth of the channel of the Ohio was brought to light at Cincinnati, where “gravel and sand have been found to extend to a depth of over one hundred feet below low-water mark, and the bottom of the trough has not been reached.” In the valley of Mill Creek, also, “in the suburbs of Cincinnati, gravel and sand were penetrated to the depth of 120 feet below the stream before reaching rock.” But from the general appearance of the channel, Professor J. F. James was led to surmise that a rock bottom extended all the way across the present channel of the Ohio, between Price Hill and Ludlow, Ky., a short distance below Cincinnati, which would preclude the possibility of a preglacial outlet at the depth disclosed in that direction. Mr. Charles J. Bates (who was inspector of the masonry for the Cincinnati Southern Railroad while building the bridge across the Ohio at this point) informs me that Mr. James’s surmise is certainly correct, and that his “in all probability” may be displaced by “certainly,” since the bedded rocks supposed by Professor James to extend across the river a few feet below its present bottom were found by the engineers to be in actual existence.

In looking for an outlet for the waters of the upper Ohio which should permit them to flow off at the low level reached in the channel at Cincinnati, Professor James was led to inspect the valley extending up Mill Creek to the north towards Hamilton, where it joins the Great Miami. The importance of Mill Creek Valley is readily seen in the fact that the canal and the railroads have been able to avoid heavy grades by following it from Cincinnati to Hamilton. As a glance at a map will show, it is also practically but a continuation of the northerly course pursued by the Ohio for twenty miles before reaching Cincinnati. This, therefore, was a natural place in which to look beneath the extensive glacial débris for the buried channel of the ancient Ohio, and here in all probability it has been found. The borings which have been made in Milk Creek Valley north of Cincinnati, show that the bedded rock lies certainly thirty-four feet below the low-water mark of the Ohio just below Cincinnati, while at Hamilton, twenty-five miles north of Cincinnati, where the valley of the Great Miami is reached, the bedded rock of the valley lies as much as ninety feet below present low-water mark in the Ohio.

Other indications of the greater depth of the preglacial gorge of the Ohio are abundant. “At the junction of the Anderson with the Ohio, in Indiana, a well was sunk ninety-four feet below the level of the Ohio before rock was found.” At Louisville, Ky., the occurrence of falls in the Ohio seemed at first to discredit the theory in question, but Professor Newberry was able to show that the falls at Louisville are produced by the water’s being now compelled to flow over a rocky point projecting from the north side into the old valley, while to the south there is ample opportunity for an old channel to have passed around this point underneath the city on the south side. The lowlands upon which the city stands are made lands, where glacial débris has filled up the old channel of the Ohio.

Above Cincinnati the tributaries of the Ohio exhibit the same phenomena. At New Philadelphia, Tuscarawas County, the borings for salt-wells show that the Tuscarawas is running 175 feet above its ancient bed. The Beaver, at the junction of the Mahoning and Shenango, is flowing 150 feet above the bottom of its old trough, as is demonstrated by a large number of oil-wells bored in the vicinity. Oil Creek is shown by the same proofs to run from 75 to 100 feet above its old channel, and that channel had sometimes vertical and even overhanging walls.[CC]

[CC] Geological Survey of Ohio, vol. ii, pp. 13, 14.

The course of preglacial drainage in the upper basin of the Alleghany River is worthy of more particular mention. Mr. Carll, of the Pennsylvania Geological Survey, has adduced plausible reasons for believing that previous to the Glacial period the drainage of the valley of the upper Alleghany north of the neighbourhood of Tidioute, in Warren County, instead of passing southward as now, was collected into one great stream flowing northward through the region of Cassadaga Lake to enter the Lake Erie basin at Dunkirk, N. Y. The evidence is that between Tidioute and Warren the present Alleghany is shallow, and flows over a rocky basin; but from Warren northward along the valley of the Conewango, the bottom of the old trough lies at a considerably lower level, and slopes to the north. Borings show that in thirteen miles the slope of the preglacial floor of Conewango Creek to the north is 136 feet. The actual height above tide of the old valley floor at Fentonville, where the Conewango crosses the New York line, is only 964 feet; while that of the ancient rocky floor of the Alleghany at Great Bend, a few miles south of Warren, was 1,170 feet. Again, going nearer the head-waters of the Alleghany, in the neighbourhood of Salamanca, it is found that the ancient floor of the Alleghany is, at Carrollton, 70 feet lower than the ancient bed of the present stream at Great Bend, about sixty miles to the south; while at Cole’s Spring, in the neighbourhood of Steamburg, Cattaraugus County, N. Y., there has been an accumulation of 315 feet of drift in a preglacial valley whose rocky floor is 155 feet below the ancient rocky floor at Great Bend. Unless there has been a great change in levels, there must, therefore, have been some other outlet than the present for the waters collecting in the drainage basin to the north of Great Bend.[CD]

[CD] For a criticism of Mr. Carll’s views, see an article on Pleistocene Fluvial Planes of Western Pennsylvania, by Mr. Frank Leverett, in American Journal of Science, vol. xlii, pp. 200-212.

While there are numerous superficial indications of buried channels running towards Lake Erie in this region, direct exploration has not been made to confirm these theoretical conclusions. In the opinion of Mr. Carll, Chautauqua Lake did not flow directly to the north, but, passing through a channel nearly coincident with that now occupied by it, joined the northerly flowing stream a few miles northeast from Jamestown.[CE] It is probable, however, that Chautauqua did not then exist as a lake, since the length of preglacial time would have permitted its outlet to wear a continuous channel of great depth corresponding to that known to have existed in the Conewango and upper Alleghany.

[CE] Second Geological Survey of Pennsylvania, vol. iii.

The foregoing are but a few of the innumerable instances where the local lines of drainage have been disturbed, and even permanently changed, by the glacial deposits. Almost every lake in the glaciated region is a witness to this disturbance of the established lines of drainage by glacial action, while in numerous places where lakes do not now exist they have been so recently drained that their shore-lines are readily discernible.

An interesting instance of the recent disappearance of one of these glacial lakes is that of Runaway Pond, in northern Vermont. In the early part of the century the Lamoille River had its source in a small lake in Craftsbury, Orleans County. The sources of the Missisquoi River were upon the same level just to the north, and the owner of a mill privilege upon this latter stream, desiring to increase his power by obtaining access to the water of the lake, began digging a ditch to turn it into the Missisquoi, but no sooner had he loosened the thin rim of compact material which formed the bottom and the sides of the inclosure, than the water began to rush out through the underlying and adjacent quicksands. This almost instantly enlarged the channel, and drained the whole body of water oft 3 in an incredibly short time. As a consequence, the torrent went rushing down through the narrow valley, sweeping everything before it; and nothing but the unsettled condition of the country prevented a disaster like that which occurred in 1889 at Johnstown, Pa. Doubtless there are many other lakes held in position by equally slender natural embankments. Artificial reservoirs are by no means the only sources of such danger.

The buried channel of the old Mississippi River in the vicinity of Minneapolis is another instructive example of the instability of many of the present lines of drainage. The gorge of the Mississippi River extending from Fort Snelling to the Falls of St. Anthony at Minneapolis is of post-glacial origin. One evidence of this is its narrowness when contrasted with the breadth of the valley below Fort Snelling. Below this point the main trough of the Mississippi has a width of from two to eight miles, and the faces of the bluffs on either side show the marks of extreme age. The tributary streams also have had time to wear gorges proportionate to that of the main stream, and the agencies which oxidise and discolor the rocks have had time to produce their full effects. But from Fort Snelling up to Minneapolis, a distance of about seven miles, the gorge is scarcely a quarter of a mile in width, and the faces of the high, steep bluffs on either side are remarkably fresh looking by comparison with those below; while the tributary gorges, of which that of the Minnehaha River is a fair specimen, are very limited in their extent.

Upon looking for the cause of this condition of things we observe that the broad trough of the Mississippi River, which had characterised it all the way below Fort Snelling, continues westward, without interruption, up the valley of the present Minnesota River, and, what seems at first most singular, it does not cease at the sources of the Minnesota, but, through Lake Traverse and Big Stone Lake, is continuous with the trough of the Red River of the North.

Fig. 53.—Map of Mississippi River from Fort Snelling to Minneapolis and the vicinity, showing the extent of the recession of the Falls of St. Anthony since the great Ice age. Notice the greater breadth of the valley of the Minnesota River as described in the text (Winchell).

Deferring, however, for a little the explanation of this, we will go back to finish the history of the preglacial channel around the Falls of St. Anthony. As early as the year 1876 Professor N. H. Winchell had collected sufficient evidence from wells, one of which had been sunk to a depth of one hundred and seventy-five feet, to show that the preglacial course of the stream corresponding to the present Mississippi River ran to the west of Minneapolis and of the Falls of Minnehaha, and joined the main valley some distance above Fort Snelling, as shown in the accompanying map.

This condition of things was at one time very painfully brought to the notice of the citizens of Minneapolis. A large part of the wealth of the city at that time consisted of the commercial value of the water-power furnished by the Falls of St. Anthony. To facilitate the discharge of the waste water from their wheels, some mill-owners dug a tunnel through the soft sandstone underlying the limestone strata over which the river falls; but it very soon became apparent that the erosion was proceeding with such rapidity that in a few years the recession of the falls would be carried back to the preglacial channel, when the river would soon scour out the channel and destroy their present source of wealth. The citizens rallied to protect their property, and spent altogether as much as half a million dollars in filling up the holes that had been thoughtlessly made; but so serious was the task that they were finally compelled to appeal for aid to the United States Government. Permanent protection was provided by running a tunnel, some ways back from the falls, completely across the channel, through the soft sandstone underlying the limestone, and filling this up with cement hard enough and compact enough to prevent the further percolation of the water from above.

Ice-Dams.

The foregoing changes in lines of drainage due to the Glacial period were produced by deposits of earthy material in preglacial channels. Another class of temporary but equally interesting changes were produced by the ice itself acting directly as a barrier.

Many such lakes on a small scale are still in existence in various parts of the world. The Merjelen See in Switzerland is a well-known instance. This is a small body of water held back by the great Aletsch Glacier, in a little valley leading to that of the Fiesch Glacier, behind the Eggischorn. At irregular intervals the ice-barrier gives way, and allows the water to rush out in a torrent and flood the valley below. Afterwards the ice closes up again, and the water reaccumulates in preparation for another flood.

Other instances in the Alps are found in the Mattmark See, which fills the portion of the Saas Valley between Monte Rosa and the Rhône. This body of water is held in place by the Allalin Glacier, which here crosses the main valley. The Lac du Combal is held back by the Glacier de Miage at the southern base of Mont Blanc. “A more famous case is that of the Gietroz Glacier in the valley of Bagnes, south of Martigny. In 1818 this lake had grown to be a mile long, and was 700 feet wide and 200 feet deep. An attempt was made to drain it by cutting through the ice, and about half the water was slowly drawn off in this way; but then the barrier broke, and the rest of the lake was emptied in half an hour, causing a dreadful flood in the valley below. In the Tyrol, the Vernagt Glacier has many times caused disastrous floods by its inability to hold up the lake formed behind it. In the northwestern Himalaya, the upper branches of the Indus are sometimes held back in this way. A noted flood occurred in 1835; it advanced twenty-five miles in an hour, and was felt three hundred miles down-stream, destroying all the villages on the lower plain, and strewing the fields with stones, sand, and mud.”[CF]

[CF] Professor William M. Davis in. Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History, vol. xxi, pp. 350, 351.

In Greenland such temporary obstructions are frequent, forming lakes of considerable size. Instances occur, in connection with the Jakobshavn and the Frederickshaab Glaciers, and in the North Isortok and Alangordlia Fiords.

Frequently, also, bodies of water of considerable size are found in depressions of the ice itself, even at high levels. I have myself seen them covering more than an acre, and as much as a thousand feet above the sea-level, upon the surface of the Muir Glacier, Alaska. They are reported by Mr. I. C. Russell[CG] of larger size and at still higher elevations upon the glaciers radiating from Mount St. Elias; while the explorers of Greenland mention them of impressive size upon the surface of its continental ice-sheet.

[CG] See National Geographic Magazine, vol. iii, pp. 116-120.

With these facts in mind we can the more readily enter into the description which will now be given of some temporary lakes of vast size which were formed by direct ice-obstructions during portions of the period.

One of the most interesting of these is illustrated upon the accompanying map, which will need little description.

Fig. 54.—Map showing the effect of the glacial dam at Cincinnati (Claypole). (From Transactions of the Edinburgh Geological Society.)

While tracing the boundary-line of the glaciated area in the Mississippi Valley during the summer of 1882, I discovered the existence of unmistakable glacial deposits in Boone County, Kentucky, across the Ohio River, from Cincinnati.[CH]; These deposits were upon the height of land 550 feet above the Ohio River, or nearly 1,000 feet above the sea, which is about the height of the water-shed between the Licking and Kentucky Rivers. As the Ohio River occupies a trough of erosion some hundreds of feet in depth, and extending all the way from this point to the mountains of western Pennsylvania, it would follow that the ice which conveyed boulders across the Ohio River at Cincinnati, and deposited them upon the highlands between the Licking and Kentucky Rivers, would so obstruct the channel of the Ohio as to pond the water back, and hold it up to the level of the lowest pass into the Ohio River farther down. Direct evidences of obstruction by glacial ice appear also for a distance of fifty or sixty miles, extending both ways, from Cincinnati.

[CH] The existence of portions of this evidence had previously been pointed out by Mr. Robert B. Warder and Dr. George Sutton (see Geological Reports of Indiana, 1872 and 1878).

The consequences connected with this state of things are of the most interesting character.

The bottom of the Ohio River at Cincinnati is 432 feet above the sea-level. A dam of 550 feet would raise the water in its rear to a height of 982 feet above tide. This would produce a long, narrow lake, of the width of the eroded trough of the Ohio, submerging the site of Pittsburg to a depth of 281 feet, and creating slack water up the Monongahela nearly to Grafton, West Virginia, and up the Alleghany as far as Oil City. All the tributaries of the Ohio would likewise be filled to this level. The length of this slack-water lake in the main valley, to its termination up either the Alleghany or the Monongahela, was not far from one thousand miles. The conditions were also peculiar in this, that all the northern tributaries rose within the southern margin of the ice-front, which lay at varying distances to the north. Down these there must have poured during the summer months immense torrents of water to strand boulder-laden icebergs on the summits of such high hills as were lower than the level of the dam.

Naturally enough, this hypothesis of a glacial dam at Cincinnati aroused considerable discussion, and led to some differences of opinion. Professors I. C. White and J. P. Lesley, whose field work has made them perfectly familiar with the upper Ohio and its tributaries, at once supported the theory, with a great number of facts concerning certain high-level terraces along the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers; while additional facts of the same character have been brought to light by myself and others. In general, it may be said that in numerous places terraces occur at a height so closely corresponding to that of the supposed dam at Cincinnati, that they certainly strongly suggest direct dependence upon it. The upward limit of these terraces in the Monongahela River is 1,065 feet, and they are found in various places in situations which indicate that they were formed in still water of such long standing as would require an obstruction below of considerable permanence.

One of the most decisive cases adduced by Professor White occurs near Morgantown, in West Virginia, of which he gives the following description:

“Owing to the considerable elevation—275 feet—of the fifth terrace above the present river-bed in the vicinity of Morgantown, its deposits are frequently found far inland from the Monongahela, on tributary streams. A very extensive deposit of this kind occurs on a tributary one mile and a half northeast of Morgantown; and the region, which includes three or four square miles, is significantly known as the ‘Flats.’ The elevation of the ‘Flats’ is 275 feet above the river, or 1,065 feet above tide. The deposits on this area consist almost entirely of clays and fine, sandy material, there being very few boulders intermingled. The depth of the deposit is unknown, since a well sunk on the land of Mr. Baker passed through alternate beds of clay, fine sand, and muddy trash, to a depth of sixty-five feet without reaching bed-rock. In some portions of the clays which make up this deposit, the leaves of our common forest-trees are found most beautifully preserved.

“At Clarksburg, where the river unites with Elk Creek, there is a wide stretch of terrace deposits, and the upper limit is there about 1,050 feet above tide, or only 130 feet above low-water (920 feet); while at Weston, forty miles above (by the river), these deposits cease at seventy feet above low water, which is there 985 feet above tide. It will thus be observed that the upper limit of the deposits retains a practical horizontality from Morgantown to Weston, a distance of one hundred miles, since the upper limit has the same elevation above tide (1,045 to 1,065 feet) at every locality.

“These deposits consist of rounded boulders of sandstone, with a large amount of clay, quicksand, and other detrital matter. The country rock in this region consists of the soft shales and limestones of the upper coal-measures, and hence there are many ‘low gaps’ from the head of one little stream to that of another, especially along the immediate region of the river; and in every case the summits of these divides, where they do not exceed an elevation of 1,050 feet above tide, are covered with transported or terrace material; but where the summits go more than a few feet above that level we find no transported material upon them, but simply the decomposed country rock.”

Other noteworthy terraces naturally attributable to the Cincinnati ice-dam are to be found in the valley of the Kanawha, in West Virginia, and one of special significance on the pass between the valleys of the Ohio and Monongahela, west of Clarksburg, West Virginia. According to Professor White, there is at this latter place “a broad, level summit, having an elevation of 1,100 feet, in a gap about 300 feet below the enclosing hills. This gap, or valley, is covered by a deposit of fine clay. The cut through it is about thirty feet, and one can observe the succession of clays of all kinds and of different colours, from yellow on the surface down to the finest white potter’s clay at the level of the railway, where the cut reaches bed-rock, thus proving that the region has been submerged.”[CI]

[CI] Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. i, p. 478.

Another crucial case I have myself described at Bellevue, in the angle of the Ohio and Alleghany Rivers, about five miles below Pittsburg, where the gravel terrace is nearly 300 feet above the river, making it about 1,000 feet above the sea. A significant circumstance connected with this terrace is that not only does its height correspond with that of the supposed obstruction at Cincinnati, but it contains many pebbles of Canadian origin, which could not have got into the valley of the Alleghany before the Glacial period, and could only have reached their present position by being brought down the Alleghany River upon floating ice, or by the ordinary movement of gravel along the margin of a river. Thus this terrace, while corresponding closely with the elevation of those on the Monongahela River, is directly connected with the Glacial period, and furnishes a twofold argument for our theory.

A still stronger case occurs at Beech Flats, at the head of Ohio Brush Creek, in the northwest corner of Pike County, Ohio, where, at an elevation of about 950 feet above the sea, there is an extensive flat-topped terrace just in front of the terminal moraine. This terrace consists of fine loam, such as is derived from the glacial streams, but which must have been deposited in still water. The occurrence of still water at that elevation just in front of the continental ice-sheet is best accounted for by the supposed dam at Cincinnati. Indeed, it is extremely difficult to account for it in any other way.

There are, however, two other methods of attempting to account for the class of facts above cited in support of the ice-dam theory, of which the most plausible is, that in connection with the Glacial period there was a subsidence of the whole region to an extent of 1,100 feet.

The principal objection heretofore alleged against this supposition is that there are not corresponding signs of still-water action at the same level on the other side of the Alleghany Mountains. This will certainly be fatal to the subsidence theory, if it proves true. But it is possible that sufficient search for such marks has not yet been made on the eastern side of the mountains.

The other theory to account for the facts is, that the terraces adduced in proof of the Cincinnati ice-dam were left by the streams in the slow process of lowering their beds from their former high levels. This is the view advocated by President T. C. Chamberlin. But the freshness of the leaves and fragments of wood, such as were noted by Professor White at Morgantown, and the great extent of fine silt occasionally resting upon the summits of the water-sheds, as described above, near Clarksburg, bear strongly against it. Furthermore, to account for the terrace described at Bellevue, which contains Canadian pebbles, President Chamberlin is compelled to connect the deposit with his hypothetical first Glacial epoch, and to assume that all the erosion of the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, and indeed of the whole trough of the Ohio River, took place in the interval between the “first” and the “second” Glacial periods (for he would connect the glacial deposits upon the south side of the river at Cincinnati with the first Glacial epoch)—all of which, it would seem, is an unnecessary demand upon the forces of Nature, when the facts are so easily accounted for by the simple supposition of the dam at Cincinnati.[CJ]

[CJ] See matter discussed more at length in the lee Age, pp. 326-350, 480-500; Bulletin of the United States Geological Survey, No. 58, pp. 76-100; Popular Science Monthly, vol. xlv, pp. 184-199. Per contra, Mr. Frank Leverett, in American Geologist, vol. x, pp. 18-24.

Fig. 55.—Map showing the condition of things when the ice-front had withdrawn about on hundred and twenty miles, and while it still filled the valley of the Mohawk. The outlet was then through the Wabash. Niagara was not yet born (Claypole). (Transactions of the Edinburgh Geological Society.)

We have already described[CK] the various temporary lakes and lines of drainage caused by the direct obstruction of the northward outlets to the basin of the Great Lakes. In connection with the map, it will be unnecessary to do anything more here than add a list of such temporary southern outlets from the Erie-Ontario basin.[CL] The first is at Fort Wayne, Indiana, through a valley connecting the Maumee River basin with that of the Wabash. The channel here is well defined, and the high-level gravel terraces down the Wabash River are a marked characteristic of the valley. The elevation of this col above the sea is 740 feet. Similar temporary lines of drainage existed from the St. Mary’s River to the Great Miami, at an elevation of 942 feet; from the Sandusky River to the Scioto, through the Tymochtee Gap, at an elevation of 912 feet; from Black River to the Killbuck (a tributary of the Muskingum) through the Harrisville Gap, at 911 feet; from the Cuyahoga into the Tuscarawas Valley, through the Akron Gap, at 971 feet; from Grand River into the Mahoning, through the Orwell Gap, 938 feet; from Cattaraugus Creek, N. Y., into the Alleghany Valley through the Dayton Gap, about 1,300 feet; between Conneaut Creek and Shenango River, at Summit Station, 1,141 feet; from the Genesee River, N. Y., into the head-waters of the Canisteo, a branch of the Susquehanna, at Portageville, 1,314 feet; from Seneca Lake to Chemung River, at Horseheads, 879 feet; from Cayuga Lake to the valley of Cayuga Creek, at Spencer, N. Y., 1,000 feet; from Utica, N. Y., into the Chenango Valley at Hamilton, about 900 feet.

[CK] See pp. [92] seq., [199] seq.

[CL] See also accompanying map.

Fig. 56.—Map illustrating a stage in the recession of the ice in Ohio. For a section of the deposit in the bed of this lakelet, see [page 200]. The gravel deposits formed at this stage along the outlet into the Tuscarawas River are very clearly marked (Claypole). (Transactions of the Edinburgh Geological Society.)

Perhaps it would have been best to give this list in the reverse order, which would be more nearly chronological, since it is clear that the highest outlets are the oldest. We should then have to mention, after the Fort Wayne outlet, two others at lower levels which are pretty certainly marked by distinct beach ridges upon the south side of Lake Erie. The first was opened when the ice had melted back from the south peninsula of Michigan to the water-shed across from the Shiawassee and Grand Rivers, uncovering a pass which is now 729 feet above the sea. This continued to be the outlet of Lake Erie-Ontario until the ice had further retreated beyond the Strait of Mackinac, when the water would fall to the level of the old outlet from Lake Michigan into the Illinois River, which is a little less than 600 feet, where it would remain until the final opening of the Mohawk River in New York attracted the water in that direction, and lowered the level to that of the pass from Lake Ontario to the Mohawk at Rome.[CM]

[CM] Mr. Warren Upham, in the Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. ii, p. 259.

A study of these lines of temporary drainage during the Glacial period sheds much light upon the long lines of gravel ridges running parallel with the shores of Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. South of Lake Erie a series of four ridges of different elevations can be traced. In Lorain County, Ohio, the highest of these is 220 feet above the lake; the next 160 feet; the next 118 feet; and the lower one 100 feet, which would make them respectively 795, 755, 715, and 700 feet above tide.

These gravel ridges are evidently old beach lines, and indicate the different levels up to which the water was held by ice-obstructions across the various outlets of the drainage valley. The material in the ridges is water-worn and well assorted, and in coarseness ranges from fine sand up to pebbles several inches in diameter. The predominant material in them is of local origin. Where the rocks over which they run are sandstone, the material is chiefly sand, and where the outcropping rock is shale, the ridges consist chiefly of the harder nodules of that formation which have successfully resisted the attrition of the waves. Ordinarily these ridges are steepest upon the side facing the lake. According to Mr. Upham, who has driven over them with me, the Lake Erie ridges correspond, both in general appearance and in all other important respects, to those which he has so carefully surveyed around the shores of the ancient Lake Agassiz in Minnesota and Manitoba, an account of which will be given a little farther on in this chapter.

Fig. 57.—Section of the lake ridges near Sandusky, Ohio.

We are not permitted, however, to assume that there have been no changes of level since the deposition of these beaches surrounding the ancient glacial Lake Erie-Ontario. On the contrary, there appears to have been a considerable elevation towards the east and northeast in post-glacial times. The highest ridge south of Lake Erie, which at Fort Wayne is about 780 feet high, is now about 795 feet in Lorain County. The second of the ridges above-mentioned, which is about 740 feet above tide at Cleveland, Ohio, rises to 870 feet where the last traces of it have been discovered at Hamburg, N. Y. The third ridge, which is 673 feet at Cleveland, has risen to the height of 860 feet at Crittenden, about one hundred miles to the east of Buffalo, N. Y.

A similar eastern increase of elevation is discoverable in the main ridge surrounding Lake Ontario. What Professor Spencer calls the Iroquois beach, which is 363 feet above tide at Hamilton, Ontario, has risen to a height of 484 feet near Syracuse, N. Y.; while farther to the northeast, in the vicinity of Watertown, it is upwards of 800 feet above tide.

There is also a similar northward increase of elevation in the beaches surrounding the higher lands of Ontario eastward of Lake Huron and Georgian Bay.

All this indicates that at the close of the Glacial period there was a subsidence of several hundred feet in the area of greatest ice-accumulation lying to the east and north of the Great Lake region. The formation of these ridges occurred during that period of subsidence. The re-elevation which followed the disappearance of the ice of course carried with it these ridges, and brought them to their present position.[CN]

[CN] See Spencer, in Bulletin of the Geological Society of America, vol. ii, pp. 465-476.

In returning to consider more particularly the remarkable gorge joining the Minnesota with the Red River of the North, we are brought to the largest of the glacial lakes of this class, and to the typical place in America in which to study the temporary changes of drainage produced by the ice itself daring the periods both of its advance and of its retreat.

Fig. 58.—Map showing the stages of recession of the ice in Minnesota as
described in the text (Upham).
Click on image to view larger sized.

By turning to our general map of the glaciated region of the United States,[CO] one can readily see the relation of the valley between Lake Traverse and Big Stone Lake to an area marked as the bed of what is called Lake Agassiz. During the Glacial period Brown’s Valley, the depression joining these two lakes, was the outlet of an immense body of water to the north, whose natural drainage was towards Hudson Bay or the Arctic Ocean, but which was cut off, by the advancing ice, from access to the ocean-level in that direction, and was compelled to seek an exit to the south.

[CO] See [page 66].

Thus for a long period the present Minnesota River Valley was occupied by a stream of enormous dimensions, and this accounts for the great size of the trough—the present Minnesota being but an insignificant stream winding about in this deserted channel of the old “Father of Waters,” and having as much room as a child of tender age would have in his parent’s cast-off garments. This glacial stream has been fittingly named River Warren, after General Warren, who first suggested and proved its existence, and so we have designated it on the accompanying map of Minnesota.

Lake Traverse is fifteen miles long, and the water is nowhere more than twenty feet deep. Big Stone Lake is twenty-six miles long, and of about the same depth. Brown’s Valley, which connects the two, is five miles long, and the lakes are so nearly on a level that during floods the water from Lake Traverse sometimes overflows and runs to the south as well as to the north.

Fig. 59.—Glacial terrace near the boundary of the glaciated area, on Raccoon Creek, a tributary of the Licking River, in Granville, Licking County, Ohio. Height about fifty feet.

The trough occupied by these lakes and valley is from one mile to one mile and a half in width and about 120 feet in depth. If we had been permitted to stand upon the bluffs overlooking it during the latter part of the Glacial period, we should have seen the whole drainage of the north passing by our feet on its way to the Gulf of Mexico. As lie follows down the valley of the Minnesota River, the observant traveller, even now, cannot fail to see in the numerous well-preserved gravel terraces the high-water marks of that stream when flooded with the joint product of the annual precipitation over the vast area to the north, and of the still more enormous quantities set free by the melting of the western part of the great Laurentide Glacier.

Numerous other deserted water-ways in the northwestern part of the valley of the Mississippi have been brought to light in the more recent geological surveys, both in the United States and in Canada. During a considerable portion of the Glacial period the Saskatchewan, the Assiniboine, the Pembina, and the Cheyenne Rivers, whose present drainage is into the Red River of the North, were all turned to the south, and their temporary channels can be distinctly traced by deserted water-courses marked by lines of gravel deposits.[CP]

[CP] For further particulars, see Ice Age, pp. 293 et seq.

In Dakota, Professor J. E. Todd has discovered large deserted channels on the southwestern border of the glaciated region near the Missouri River, where evidently streams must have flowed for a long distance in ice-channels when the ice still continued to occupy the valley of the James River. From these channels of ice in which the water was held up to the level of the Missouri Coteau the water debouched directly into channels with sides and bottom of earthy material, which still show every mark of their former occupation by great streams.[CQ]

[CQ] For particulars, see Ice Age, p. 292.

In Minnesota, also, there is abundant evidence that while the northeastern part of the valley from Mankato to St. Paul was occupied by ice, the drainage was temporarily turned directly southward across the country through Union Slough and Blue Earth River into the head-waters of the Des Moines River in Iowa.

Ancient River Terraces.

The interest of the whole inquiry respecting the relation of man to the Glacial period in America concentrates upon these temporary lines of southern drainage. Wherever they existed, the swollen floods of the Glacial period have left their permanent marks in the deposition of extensive gravel terraces. The material thus distributed is derived largely from the glacial deposits through which they run and out of which they emerge. While the height of the terraces depended upon various conditions which must be studied in detail, in general it may be said that it corresponds pretty closely with the extent of the area whose drainage was turned through the channel during the prevalence of the ice. The height of the terraces and the coarseness of the material seem also to have been somewhat dependent upon the proximity of their valleys to the areas of most vigorous ice-action, and this, in turn, seems to lie in the rear of the moraines which President Chamberlin has attributed to the second Glacial epoch. Southward from this belt of moraines the terraces uniformly and gradually diminish both in height and in the coarseness of their gravel, until they finally disappear in the present flood-plain of the Mississippi River.

Fig. 60.—Ideal section across a river-bed in drift region: b b b, old river-bed; R, the present river; t t, upper or older terraces; t′ t′, lower terraces.

An interesting illustration of this principle is to be observed in the continuous valley of the Alleghany and Ohio Rivers. The trough of this valley was reached by the continental glacier at only a few points, the ice barely touching it at Salamanca, N. Y., Franklin, Pa., and Cincinnati, Ohio. But throughout its whole length the ice-front was approximately parallel to the valley, and occupied the head-waters of nearly all its tributaries. Now, wherever tributaries which could be fed by glacial floods, enter the trough of the main stream, they brought down an excessive amount of gravel, and greatly increased the size of the terrace in the trough itself, and from the mouth of each such tributary to that of the next one below there is a gradual decrease in the height of the terrace and in the coarseness of the material.

This law is illustrated with special clearness in Pennsylvania between Franklin and Beaver. Franklin is upon the Alleghany River, at the last point where it was reached directly by the ice. Below this point no tributary reaches it from the glaciated region, and none such reaches the Ohio after its junction with the Alleghany until we come to the mouth of Beaver Creek, about twenty-five miles below Pittsburg.

But at this point the Ohio is joined by a line of drainage which emerges from the glaciated area only ten or twelve miles to the north, and whose branches occupy an exceptionally large glaciated area. Accordingly, there is at Beaver a remarkable increase in the size of the glacial terrace on the Ohio. In the angle down-stream between the Beaver and the Ohio there is an enormous accumulation of granitic pebbles, many of them almost large enough to be called boulders, forming the delta terrace, upon which the city is built and rising to a height of 135 feet above the low-water mark in the Ohio. In striking confirmation of our theory, also, the terrace in the Ohio Valley upon the upper side of Beaver Creek is composed of fine material, largely derived from local rocks and containing but few granitic pebbles.

From the mouth of Beaver Creek, down the Ohio, the terrace is constant (sometimes upon one side of the river and sometimes upon the other), but, according to rule, the material of which it is composed gradually grows finer, and the elevation of the terrace decreases. According to rule, also, there is a notable increase in the height of the terrace below each affluent which enters the river from the glaciated region. This is specially noticeable below Marietta, at the mouth of the Muskingum, whose head-waters drain an extensive portion of the glaciated area. From the mouth of the Little Beaver to this point the tributaries of the Ohio are all small, and none of them rise within the glacial limit. Hence they could contribute nothing of the granitic material which enters so largely into the formation of the river terrace; but below the mouth of the Muskingum the terrace suddenly ascends to a height of nearly one hundred feet above low-water mark.

Again, at the mouth of the Scioto at Portsmouth, there is a marked increase in the size of the terrace, which is readily accounted for by the floods which came down the Scioto Valley from the glaciated region. The next marked increase is at Cincinnati, just below the mouth of the Little Miami, whose whole course lay in the glaciated region, and whose margin is lined by very pronounced terraces. At Cincinnati the upper terrace upon which the city is built is 120 feet above the flood-plain.

Twenty-five miles farther down the river, near Lawrenceburg, these glacial terraces are even more extensive, the valley being there between three and four miles wide, and being nearly filled with gravel deposits to a height of 112 feet above the flood-plain. Below this point the terraces gradually diminish in height, and the material becomes finer and more water-worn, until it merges at last in the flood-plain of the Mississippi. The course of the Wabash River is too long to permit it to add materially to the size of the terraces which characterise the broader valley of the Ohio below the Illinois line.

It is in terraces such as these just described that we find the imbedded relics of man which definitely connect him with the great Ice age. These have now been found in the glacial terraces of the Delaware River at Trenton, N. J.; in similar terraces in the valley of the Tuscarawas River at New Comerstown, and in the valley of the Little Miami at Loveland and Madisonville, in Ohio; on the East Fork of White River, at Medora, Ind.; and still, again, at Little Falls, in the trough of the Mississippi, some distance above Minneapolis, Minn.

I append a list of the points at which various streams from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mississippi River emerge from the glacial boundary, and below which the terraces are specially prominent. Of course, with the retreat of the ice, the formation of the terraces continued northward in the glaciated area to a greater or less distance, according to the extent of the valley or to the length of time during which the drainage was temporarily turned into it. These points of emergence are: In the Delaware Valley, at Belvidere, N. J.; in the Susquehanna, at Beach Haven, Pa.; in the Conewango, at Ackley, Warren County; in Oil Creek, above Titusville: in French Creek, a little above Franklin; in Beaver Creek, at Chewtown, Lawrence County; on the Middle Fork of Little Beaver, near New Lisbon, Ohio; on the east branch of Sandy Creek, at East Rochester, Columbiana County; on the Nimishillin, at Canton, Stark County; on the Tuscarawas, at Bolivar; on Sugar Creek, at Beech City; on the Killbuck, at Millersburg, Holmes County; on the Mohican, near the northeast corner of Knox County; on the Licking River, at Newark; on Jonathan Creek, Perry County; on the Hocking, at Lancaster; on the Scioto, at Hopetown, just above Chillicothe; on Paint Creek, and its various tributaries, between Chillicothe and Bainbridge; and on the Wabash, above New Harmony, Ind.; to which may be added the Ohio River itself, at its junction with the Miami, near Lawrenceburg.

Another class of terraces having most interesting connection with the Glacial period is found in the arid basins west of the Rocky Mountains. Over wide areas in Utah and Nevada the evaporation now just balances the precipitation, and all the streams disappear in shallow bodies of salt water of moderate dimensions, of which Great Salt Lake in Utah, and Mono, Pyramid, and North Carson Lakes in Nevada, are the most familiar examples. These occupy the lowest sinks of enclosed basins of great depth.

But there is abundant evidence that in consequence of the increased precipitation and diminished evaporation of the Glacial period one of these basins was filled to the brim and the other to a depth of several hundred feet. These former enlargements have been named after the first explorers of the region, Captains Lahontan and Bonneville, and are shown on the accompanying sketch map by the shading surrounding the existing lakes.

Lake Lahontan has been carefully studied by Mr. I. C. Russell, and has been found to extend from the boundary of Oregon to latitude 38° 30’ south, a distance of two hundred and sixty miles. The Central Pacific Railroad runs through its dried-up bed from Golconda to Wadsworth, a distance of one hundred and sixty-five miles. The terraces of the former lake are distinctly traceable at a height of 700 feet above the present level of Lake Mono.

Lake Bonneville, whose present representative is Great Salt Lake, is the subject of a recent monograph by Mr. G. K. Gilbert, from which it appears that this ancient body of water occupied 19,750 square miles—an area about ten times that of the present lake. At the time of its maximum extension its depth was 1,000 feet, while Great Salt Lake ranges only from fifteen to fifty feet in depth.

The pass through which the discharge finally took place is at Red Rock, on the Utah and Northern Railroad, at the head of Cache Valley on the south and the lower part of Marsh Creek Valley on the north. During the long period preceding and accompanying the gradual rise of water in the Utah basin to the level of the highest terrace, Marsh Creek (the upper portion of which comes from the mountains on the east and turns at right angles) had been at work depositing a delta of loose material in the col which separates the two valleys. This deposit rested upon a stratum of limestone at the bottom of the pass, and covered it with sand, clay, and gravel to a depth of 375 feet. Thus, when the water was approaching its upper level, the only barrier to prevent its escape was this unstable accumulation of loose material upon top of the rock. It would have required, therefore, no prophet’s eye to predict that the way was preparing for a tremendous débâcle.

Fig. 61.—Map of the Quaternary Lakes. Bonneville and Lahontan (after Gilbert and Russell).

The critical point at length was reached. After remaining nearly at the elevation of the pass for a considerable period, during which the 1,000-foot shore-line was formed, the crisis came when the water began to flow northward towards Snake River. Once begun in such loose material, the channel rapidly enlarged until soon a stream equal to Niagara, and at times probably much larger, was pouring northward through the valley heretofore occupied by the insignificant rivulets of Marsh Creek and the Port Neuf. It is impossible to tell how rapidly the loose barrier wore away, but there is abundant evidence in the valley below that not only the present channel of the lower part of Marsh Creek, but the whole bottom of the valley for a mile or more in width, was for a considerable time covered by a rapid stream from ten to twenty feet in depth, and descending at the rate of thirteen feet to the mile.

The continuance of this flood was dependent upon the amount of water to be discharged, which, as we have seen, was that contained in an area of 20,000 square miles, with a depth of 375 feet. A stream of the size of Niagara would occupy about twenty-five years in the discharge of such a mass, and this may fairly be taken as a measure of the time through which it lasted. When the loose material lying above the strata of limestone in Red Rock Pass had been washed away, the lake then continued at that level for an indefinite period, with an overflow regulated by the annual precipitation of the drainage basin. This stage of the lake, during which it occupied 13,000 square miles and was 625 feet above its present level, is also marked by an extensive and persistent shore-line all around the basin. But, finally, the balance again turned when the evaporation exceeded the precipitation, and the vast body of water has since dwindled to its present insignificant dimensions.

My own interest in this discovery of Mr. Gilbert is enhanced by the explanation it gives of a phenomenon in the Snake River Valley which I was unable to solve when on the ground in 1890. The present railroad town of Pocatello is situated just where this flood emerged from the narrower valley of Marsh Creek and the Port Neuf, and spread itself out upon the broad plain of the Snake River basin. The southern edge of the plain upon which the city is built is a vast boulder-bed covered with a thin stratum of sand and gravel. Everywhere, in sinking wells and digging ditches on the vacant lots and in the streets of the city, water-worn boulders of a great variety of material and sometimes three or four feet in diameter are encountered. I was debarred from regarding this as a terminal moraine, both by the water-worn character of the boulders and by the absence of any sign of ice-action in the surrounding mountains, and I was equally debarred from attributing it to any ordinary stream of water, both by the size of the boulders and the fact that for a mile or more up the Port Neuf Valley there is an intervale, forty or fifty feet below the surface at Pocatello, and occupying the whole width of the valley, in which there is only gravel and fine sand, through which the present Port Neuf pursues a meandering course. The upper end of this short intervale is bounded by the terminus of a basaltic stream which had flowed down the valley and filled it to a considerable depth, but had subsequently been much eroded by violent water-action.

In the light of Mr. Gilbert’s discoveries, however, everything is clear. The tremendous débâcle which he has brought within the range of scientific vision would naturally produce just the condition of things which is so puzzling at Pocatello. Coming down through the restricted channel with sufficient force to roll along boulders of great size and to clear them all out from the upper portion of the valley, the torrent would naturally deposit them where the current was first checked, a mile below the lava cliffs. The plunge of the water over these cliffs would keep a short space below clear from boulders, and the more moderate stream of subsequent times would fill in the depression with the sand and gravel now occupying it.

What other effects of this remarkable outburst may be traced farther down in the Snake River Valley I cannot say, but it will be surprising if they do not come to light and help to solve some of the many geological problems yet awaiting us in this interesting region.

It should have been said that during the formation of the 625-foot, or so-called Provo shore-line, glaciers descended from the cañons on the west flank of the Wahsatch Mountains, and left terminal moraines to mark the coincidence of the Glacial period with that stage of the enlargement of the lake. Evidences of a similar coincidence are to be found on the high-level terraces surrounding Lake Mono, to which glaciers formerly descended from the western flanks of the Sierra Nevada.

The ancient shore-lines surrounding Lakes Bonneville and Lahontan bear evidence also of various other episodes in the Glacial period. Evidently there were two periods of marked increase in the size of the lakes, with an arid period intervening. During the first rise the level of Bonneville attained to within ninety feet of the second, and numerous beaches were formed, and a large amount of yellow clay deposited. Then it seems to have been wholly evaporated, while its soluble mineral matter was precipitated, and so mingled with silt that it did not readily redissolve during the second great rise of water. Partly on this account, and partly through the influence of the outlet into the Snake River, the lake was nearly fresh during its second enlargement.

European Facts.

In [Chapter VI] it came in place to mention many of the facts connected with the influence of the Glacial period upon the drainage systems of Europe. We there discussed briefly the probable influence of the ice-obstructions that extended across the mouths of the Dwina, the Vistula, the Oder, the Elbe, the Weser, and the Rhine. The drainage of the obstructed rivers in Russia was perhaps turned southward into the Caspian and Black Seas, and then assisted in forming the fertile soil of the plains in the southern part of that empire.

The obstructed drainage of the German rivers was probably turned westward in front of the ice through the Straits of Dover or across the southern part of England. This was during the climax of the Glacial period; but later, according to Dawkins, during a period in which the land of the British Isles stood about 600 feet above its present level, the streams of the eastern coast—namely, "the Thames, Medway, Humber, Tyne, and others, joined the Rhine, the Weser, and the Elbe, to form a river flowing through the valley of the ocean. In like manner, the rivers of the south of England and of the north of France formed a great river flowing past the Channel Islands due west into the Atlantic, and the Severn united with the rivers of the south of Ireland; while those to the east of Ireland joined the Dee, Mersey Ribble, and Lune, as well as those of western Scotland, ultimately reaching the Atlantic to the west of the Hebrides. The water-shed between the valleys of the British Channel and the North Sea is represented by a ridge passing due south from Folkestone to Dieppe, and that between the drainage area and the Severn and its tributaries on the one hand, and of the Irish Channel on the other, by a ridge from Holyhead westward to Dublin.

“This tract of low, undulating land which surrounded Britain and Ireland on every side consisted not merely of rich hill, valley, and plain, but also of marsh-land studded with lakes, like the meres of Norfolk, now indicated by the deeper soundings. These lakes were very numerous to the south of the Isle of Wight and off the coast of Norfolk and Suffolk.”[CR]

[CR] Early Man in Britain, p. 151.