From a Sketch by G. Bennett. Pub: by R. Bentley, London, 1834. T. Clark, sc.

Bugong Mountain

WANDERINGS
IN
NEW SOUTH WALES,
BATAVIA, PEDIR COAST, SINGAPORE,
AND CHINA;
BEING
THE JOURNAL OF A NATURALIST
IN THOSE COUNTRIES, DURING 1832, 1833, AND 1834.

BY
GEORGE BENNETT, Esq. F.L.S.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, &c.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
Publisher in Ordinary to his Majesty.
1834.

LONDON:
IBOTSON AND PALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.

PREFACE.

The Work now given to the Public is the result of a series of recent excursions into the interior of the Colony of New South Wales, at intervals of disengagement from professional duties, and at periods of the year best calculated for observations in natural history. To this are added a detail of such incidents as appeared to the Author worthy of notice, while visiting Batavia, Singapore, China, &c. on his return to England.

The writer in his narrative has limited himself principally, if not entirely, to the notes taken at the instant of observation, his object being to relate facts in the order they occurred; and, without regard to studied composition, to impart the information he has been enabled to collect in simple and unadorned language, avoiding, as much as possible, the technicalities of science.

London, June, 1834.

CONTENTS
OF
THE FIRST VOLUME.

WANDERINGS
IN
NEW SOUTH WALES,
&c.

CHAPTER I.

Island of Porto Santo—Madeira—The Desertas Islands—Town of Funchal—The Physalia, or Portuguese man of war—Description of that animal—An experiment—Effects of the Physalia’s sting—Method of preserving the animal—Land in sight—Approach to the Cape Verd Islands—Islands of Mayo and St. Jago—Anchor at Porto Praya—The town—Famine—Novel method of Fishing—Tropical trees and other plants—Valley of St. Trinidad—The monkey bread-tree—Springs of water—Severe drought—Negro Huts—Plantations—The gigantic boabab-tree—Residence of Don F. Melo—The Orchilla weed—Date palms—Leave the island.

On the 15th of May 1832, the island of Porto Santo, in latitude 35° 5′ north, longitude 16° 5′ west, was seen bearing south-west, half-south, at the distance of forty miles from the ship “Brothers,” Captain Towns, bound to New South Wales, eleven days having elapsed since leaving Plymouth, from whence we had taken our departure. The appearance of the island, when we had reached to within seven or eight miles of it, was generally barren, varied by an occasional verdant patch scattered over the rugged rocks, which terminated in steep cliffs to the water’s edge.

On the following morning at daylight, the dark towering land of Madeira[1] was visible, rising like a huge black mass from the blue water. By eight A.M. we were in the passage between the south-east side of Madeira and the group of islands known as the Desertas, sailing, with a light and agreeable breeze, from the eastward, which enabled us to have an excellent view both of the former islands and Madeira; and as our progress seemed to be quicker than would have been expected from our gentle zephyrs, we were probably also aided by a current.[2]

The passage between the Desertas and Madeira is considered to be about eleven miles across. The Desertas stretch nearly north-north-west and south-south-east, and may be five leagues in extent; they have an abrupt, barren appearance, with steep, rugged, perpendicular rocks descending to the sea; on the largest island there was some appearance of cultivation, and the tufa, or red volcanic ash, imparts that colour to several parts of the island; there is a high pyramidal rock, resembling a needle or pillar, situated about the north-west part of the group, which at a distance is like a ship under sail.

By eight A.M. the heat of the sun had dissipated the gloomy mist which had previously been pending over and concealing the beautiful features of the island of Madeira, and caused it to burst forth in all its luxuriance and beauty; the northern part of the island had a very sombre, barren aspect, when compared with the fertility of the southern; the plantations, glowing in varied tints, interspersed with neat white villas and small villages, gave much animation and picturesque beauty to the scene.

Early in the morning is the time best calculated to view the island clearly, as the sun, gradually emerging from the dense masses of clouds which have previously enveloped the towering mountains, gilds their summits, and, gradually spreading its rays over the fertile declivities, enlivens and renders distinct the splendid prospect afforded to the voyager. As the sun, however, acquires a stronger power, its proximity to a wide expanse of waters soon causes a mist to arise by which the clearness of the view from the sea is much obstructed.

As we approached, the town of Funchal opened to our view, the white habitations rising like an amphitheatre, and the hills around, covered by the variegated tints of a luxuriant vegetation: the whole appearance of the island was such, as to be well calculated to excite the most agreeable sensations of delight at any time, but more especially after the eye has enjoyed for a time only the prospect of sea and sky.

As it was not our intention to touch at this island, in the course of the day we had passed and left it far in the distance. We spoke off the island one of Don Pedro’s blockading squadron; it was a brig mounting eighteen guns, filled with such a motley crew as one may expect to see in a piratical craft. The spokesman informed us that Don Pedro was with Admiral Sartorius, in a large ship off the north side of the island: we then parted; they wishing us “un bon voyage,” and we, in return, hoped they might obtain abundance of prize money, but which we hardly supposed would ever be realized.

There are various objects well calculated to excite interest to a naturalist during a long voyage, and to furnish both amusement and instruction. The splendid Physalia, or “Portuguese man of war,”[3] is often seen floating by the ship; the inflated, or bladder portion of this molluscous animal, glowing in delicate crimson tints, floats upon the waves, whilst the long tentaculæ of a deep purple colour extend beneath, as snares to capture its prey. It is oftentimes amusing to see persons eager to secure the gaudy prize; but they find, by painful experience, that, like many other beautiful objects of the creation, they possess hidden torments; for no sooner have they grasped the tinted and curious animal, than, encircling its long filiform appendages over the hands and fingers of its capturer, it inflicts such pungent pain by means of an acrid fluid discharged from them, as to cause him to drop the prize, and attend to the smarting occasioned by it.

This beautiful molluscous animal inhabits the tropical seas, and is also seen in high latitudes during the summer months[4] of the year. When first removed from the water, it excites the admiration of the spectators by the elegant and vivid colours with which it is adorned. These tints, however, are as evanescent as they are brilliant; and soon after this animal is taken from its native element, the crest sinks; the bright crimson, green, and purple tints lose their brilliancy, and the beauty which had previously excited so much admiration fades, and at last totally vanishes. There are a number of species of the genus;[5] but the one most commonly seen is the Physalia pelagica of Lamarck, (Holothuria physalis of Linn.) They are known to our seamen as the “Portuguese men of war,” and galére or frégate among the French, from having some resemblance to a small vessel resting tranquilly on the surface of the water during a calm, at which time they are more readily discerned than during strong breezes: they have also been confounded by many persons unacquainted with natural history with the Nautilus.

The figure of this species is somewhat ovate; the upper portion resembles an inflated bladder, rounded at one extremity, and with a beak-like termination at the other. On the summit or back is a crest or ridge, slightly elevated, sulcated, and fringed at the edges: the whole of this part of the animal is of a light blue, with occasional streaks of delicate sea-green, and tinged with brilliant crimson: this portion of the animal is filled with air, and, although I have heard it frequently asserted that the animal has the voluntary power of collapsing the bladder on the approach of tempestuous, or inflating it on a return of fine weather, yet I do not credit the remark, considering it is more probably a seaman’s tale than the result of a naturalist’s observation. On examination, no apparatus is found by which such an effect could be produced; and if it actually possesses such a power, why is it not exercised in every moment of peril?—for, when we approach the animal to capture it, or when it is taken from the water, no such change occurs; the bladder still remains inflated, and can be preserved thus distended either in a dried state or by placing it in alcohol. During strong breezes, I have seen them floating on the waves; but, from the ship passing at that time rapidly through the water, they are then more rarely observed. I have also seen them thrown in tempestuous weather on the beach at New South Wales, the bladder portion of the animal still remaining inflated. From these, and other reasons which might be adduced, the assertion cannot be considered as the result of actual observation. Situated at the under portion of the animal is a mass of tentaculæ, some short and thick, others long, filiform, and extending to several yards in length: these seem to consist of a chain of globules, filled with an extremely acrid fluid: in colour, they are of a beautiful purple, with an admixture of crimson; and they are covered by a glutinous substance, having a peculiar odour. The inflated membrane is probably intended to keep the animal buoyant on the water, by which it is readily enabled to extend its long tentaculæ in search of prey, or it may be designed as a locomotive agent, aiding the animal in its progress over the “vast bosom of the ocean,”—thus serving the purpose of a sail. It is said that the appearance of the Physalia near to the sea-coast is the indication of an approaching tempest.[6]

Having captured a very fine specimen of this animal on a former voyage in latitude 9° 0′ south, and longitude 12° 59′ west, and being aware of the pungent property residing in the tentaculæ, I was desirous of trying its effects on myself, for the purpose of ascertaining from personal experience the constitutional irritative effects resulting from it. On taking hold of the animal it raised its tentaculæ, and stung me on the second and ring fingers. The sensation was similar at first to that produced by the nettle; but before a few minutes had elapsed, a violent aching pain succeeded, affecting more severely the joints of the fingers, the stinging sensation at the same time continuing at the part first touched by the acrid fluid. On cold water being applied, with the intention of removing or lessening the pain, it was found rather to increase than diminish the effects. The irritation resulting from the poisonous fluid emitted by the animal extended upwards, increasing in extent and severity, (apparently acting along the course of the nerves,) and in the space of a quarter of an hour, the effect in the fore-arm (more particularly felt at the inner part) was very violent, and at the elbow-joint still more so. It may be worthy of remark, that when the joints became affected the pain always increased. It became at last almost unbearable, and was much heightened on the affected arm being moved; the pulse of that arm was also much accelerated, and an unnatural heat was felt over its whole surface. The pain extended to the shoulder-joint; and on the pectoral muscle becoming attacked by the same painful sensation, an oppression of breathing was occasioned, which we find similarly produced by rheumatism, when it attacks that muscle; and it proved very distressing during the time it remained. The continuance of the pain was very severe for nearly half an hour, after which it gradually abated, but the after effects were felt during the remainder of the day in a slight degree of numbness and increased temperature of the arm.

About two hours after I had been stung, I perceived that a vesicle had arisen on the spot; and when children have been stung, I observed that numerous small vesicles arose, similar to those produced by the nettle. The intensity of the effects produced depends on the size and consequent power of the animal; and after it has been for some time removed from the water, it is found that the stinging property has diminished. This irritative property, unattended, however, by any of the constitutional effects, remains for a long time in the tentaculæ, even after they have been removed from the animal; for on touching a handkerchief some weeks after it had been used in wiping off some portions of the tentaculæ, the stinging property was found to have remained, although it had lost that virulent quality, which produced on a recent application such violent constitutional irritation.

This irritative secretion does not, however, exist solely in this species of mollusca; several of the medusæ have similar properties, which may perhaps be considered as both offensive and defensive; and it has been, and no doubt correctly, supposed to be given to these animals as a means of procuring their food, the benumbing principle existing in the tentaculæ rendering their prey when touched unable to escape. For what purpose this acrid property is found existing in the vegetable kingdom, it is difficult to decide, and all that has yet been said on the subject may be considered as merely hypothetical. For instance, at the island of Singapore there is a remarkable species of the order Fuci, usually found growing in isolated patches upon coral banks. Finlayson thus mentions it: “It is pinnated, plumose, elegant, about a foot and a half in length, and of a whitish colour. It is endued with a property of stinging like nettles; the sensation produced is more acute and more penetrating, more instantaneous, but somewhat more permanent. The hand is scarcely brought into contact with it, before the wound is inflicted. A small corrugated granular bag, filled with a transparent fluid, would seem to be the organ by which it produces this effect. These are no sooner touched than they discharge the fluid they contain. The plant soon loses this power after being removed from the water.” This plant seems, therefore, to possess an offensive or defensive property analogous to that of the Physalia, but for what purpose it would be difficult to form an opinion.

The usual method adopted for the preservation of this curious and beautiful mollusca is by placing it in spirits; the form is thus well preserved; but its vivid tints, the subject of so much admiration, are totally lost. As it is with the beautiful but evanescent colour of flowers, no method has been discovered by which their natural brilliancy can be preserved, and it is impossible to retain that peculiar brightness given only by life and health. I have preserved the animal by detaching the tentacute from the bladder; (on account of their being too soft and perishable to enable them to be dried, en masse, with any chance of success; their form only being preserved well in spirits;) then permitting the air to escape from the bladder, dried, pressed, and afterwards gummed on paper, it produces a good lateral view of the form of this mollusca; the colours being afterwards artificially renewed by the pencil, and the tentaculæ underneath drawn and coloured, the tout ensemble conveys an idea of the brilliant appearance of the animal, as far as can be produced by art. I have also kept the animal with the bladder inflated, dried it in that state, and, by afterwards colouring it, the appearance produced is very excellent; but, it is only by repeated trials that the best and most accurate methods of preserving objects of natural history can be discovered—the greatest difficulty existing, being that of preserving them accurately in their natural appearance.

We had the N. E. trade in lat. 28° N. and long. 18° 11′ W. and at three P.M. of the 25th made the “Northern Saddle Hill,” (N. W. hill,) on the island of Sal, (Cape Verd group,) bearing S. E. about six leagues distant.

The announcement of “land in sight,” and the delightful sensations produced by it, can only be appreciated by those who have for some length of time been tossed about on the “deep, deep sea,” for many a weary day, with nothing but sea and sky to gaze upon. All hasten on deck as soon as the land is stated to be visible; at first its rather indistinct form, as it rises from the horizon, does not excite so much interest; but, on a nearer approach, the variously tinted strata of the lofty mountains become visible, and plantations, trees, shrubs, and neat habitations cheer the eye; and, on landing, a profusion of the floral beauties of the vegetable kingdom, with butterflies vieing with them in splendour of tints, or several species of the coleoptera tribe decked in golden armour, meet the eye. But the approach to the Cape Verd islands does not possess these beauties in any profusion—barren volcanic mountains, contrasted occasionally only by a few others of a verdant character are seen instead; even these become an agreeable prospect, being a change from the monotony of a ship, but a departure from them, after a few days’ sojourn, is attended with but little if any regret.

On the 26th, at daylight, we sailed with a pleasant breeze between the island of Mayo and that of St. Jago; the former distant about ten, the latter about eighteen miles; the western side of Mayo had a very sterile appearance; there was not a tree or speck of verdure to be seen. The lofty mountain of St. Antonio, on the island of St. Jago, was visible; its declivities verdant, but the peaked summit was for the most part hidden by clouds. As we coasted along the latter island, the feature of the coast was very barren, although it was occasionally relieved by a small verdant valley, diversified by some miserable huts and a few stunted cocoa-nut trees. In the afternoon we anchored at Porto Praya,[7] about a quarter of a mile distant from the shore.

After dinner we paid a visit to the shore; the landing-place is very inconvenient, and often dangerous, from the surf, which at this time was fortunately not high. After landing we had to walk over a soft sandy road, varied only by large stones coming in contact with our feet, and assuring us of their presence by the pain they occasioned. Several miserable date palms and dusty plants of Aloe perfoliata (a few of the latter being in flower) grew by the road side. Then by a winding and steep ascent, covered by loose stones, we arrived at the town, which is built upon a table land of moderate elevation, and on this side of the approach there is a battery mounting twenty-one guns. From the descriptions I had previously perused, the town appears to have been much improved since they had been written, but still it has nothing of interest to recommend it; but the view of the bay and shipping from the elevated site is very pretty. The Plaza (in which the American consul resides, and where there is a small church, which as yet cannot boast of a steeple,) contains the best houses and stores, where almost any supplies of foreign manufacture can be purchased, but at exorbitant prices.

At the period of our visit, this, together with the whole of the islands of the group were suffering from a severe and long drought; this one, from its fertility, and the irrigation that is capable of being produced, as well as from imports, is in a better condition than the others. At the island of Fuego, more particularly, the inhabitants were said to be dying daily in great numbers, from famine. The island of St. Jago alone is stated to have a population of 27,000 inhabitants.

I observed several boats engaged in fishing near the ship, previous to our landing, and their mode of capturing the finny tribe appeared to me novel; they sprinkled something over the water, like crumbs of bread, that attracted the fish (which were five or six inches long) to the surface in shoals; the fishermen then swept amongst them a stick to which a number of short lines and hooks were attached, and by aid of this they usually brought up several fish at a time. After the fish were caught, some women, who were in the boat, were engaged in cleansing and salting them.

Tired of the dull village, we descended from the elevated site to a garden in which the well was situated whence the supply of water of excellent quality is procured for shipping. At this spot the plantain, date, papaw, and cocoa-nut trees, attracted the attention of those of our party who had never before seen these magnificent tropical trees. The sides of the paths were adorned with the gay and handsome flowers of the Poinciana pulcherrima, and the more elevated lilac tree (Melia azedarack) profusely covered with its long panicles of fragrant flowers. As we rambled further into the scrubby parts beyond this cultivated spot, cotton shrubs, (Gossypium herbaceum,) the thorny Zizyphus and mimosas were abundant. The Jatropha curcas was used for hedges, and a handsome asclepias (procera?) called bombadero by the Portuguese, was abundant about this waste land, both in fruit and flower: the flowers are succeeded by a large somewhat oval fruit, containing a quantity of pretty feathered seeds; the whole plant (like all the family to which this belongs) abounds in a viscid milky juice; the capsule of the pod is elegantly veined, reminding the anatomist of the veins displayed on the exterior of the heart.

On the following morning a small party was formed for an excursion to the valley of St. Trinidad, to gain some idea, if possible, of the fertile portions of this apparently very sterile island. This valley, it may be said, commences soon after descending the table land on which the town is situated. We diverged from the direct road, for the purpose of visiting a plantation about a mile and a half distant from the town. The road was stony, and there was nothing in the aspect of the country around to relieve the eye; a few stunted Mimosæ, (occasionally varied by a few of the same species of large dimensions and great age,) some stunted Zizyphi, and a few trailing plants of Convolvulus soldanella, which, by its dark green leaves and purplish flowers, contrasted in a beautiful manner with the sterile brown soil of the scorched plains. The plantation we visited was not yet in order; it contained some flourishing coffee plants, with cocoa, plantain, cashew-nut, and other tropical trees; but the principal object of my visit was to view a specimen of the Adansonia digitata, or monkey bread tree, and its very peculiar appearance and growth imparted much gratification; it was about eighteen or twenty feet high, and twenty-one feet in circumference. This tree was in full foliage, and its bright green digitated leaves imparted much animation to it. The tree is surrounded to some depth by a spongy sap. As subsequently at the valley I saw a much larger specimen of this gigantic tree, but destitute of foliage, I shall then return to its description, and add a sketch. From this part of the island I collected but few plants; Momordica senegalensis grew wild about the fertile parts, as well as Lotus jacobæus, Tribulus cistoides, Asclepias, (procera?) and a very pretty convolvulus, with lilac flowers, climbed over rocks and trees in good soil.

From this place we proceeded to our destination. The sun was fervent, but the inconvenience was in some degree mitigated by a delightful north-east trade breeze. We passed over scorched plains, about which a few stunted bushes of mimosa were scattered, and at other places some wretched trees of Jatropha curcas. In a small vale we passed a rivulet of delicious water, at which several negresses were busily engaged in washing linen. The springs of water appear excellent, and there seems to be no deficiency of it in the valleys; but the want of rain is often severely felt: it was stated to me, that during the previous twenty months only half an inch has fallen on this island.

Continuing our journey, we passed several negroes conveying their produce, consisting of fruit, vegetables, orchilla weed, &c. to the town for sale, upon asses, with panniers made from bullocks’ hides. The animals seemed in excellent condition, at which we were not a little surprised, from what we had seen of the sterility of the soil. A few cattle were also seen wandering over the plains, where barely a speck of verdure tinged the barren volcanic rocks, still the animals were sleek, and in tolerable condition; we therefore came to the conclusion that they were turned out to feed, or, what was much more likely, to view the country and fast during the day, and driven home to feed at night.

We pursued our dreary path, occasionally passing a few negro huts, and refreshing ourselves with some delicious goats’ milk. As we came upon the fertile portion of this valley, the change of scene was certainly most agreeable; the brown-parched soil which we had been so long previously alone regarding, now gave place to the verdant plantations of sugar-cane, manioc, and various European and tropical esculent vegetables, which gave a rich and animated character to the scene. The plantations were also interspersed with a great variety of tropical fruit trees, such as orange, lemon, guava plantain, tamarind, custard apple, &c. The tamarind trees were stunted, compared with the luxuriant and elegant growth of those trees in India; they were, however, laden with ripe fruit, whose powerful acid soon set the teeth on edge of such of our party as were induced to partake of them.

Several trees of the Boabab, or monkey bread-tree, (Adansonia digitata,) were now seen, and among them one was particularly conspicuous from its size, as also from a resemblance to the union of three trees. This tree was destitute of foliage, but that loss was compensated by the curious character it assumed, being covered with fruit pending from a long, twisted, spongy stalk, varying in length from one to two feet. This tree measured forty feet in circumference, and was about sixty feet high; the bark was smooth, and of a greyish colour; the termination of its larger branches is remarkable, from being abruptly rounded, and from these rounded extremities the smaller branches are given off, as may be seen in the accompanying drawing; this forms a very characteristic feature in the tree. The fruit, on the outer shell being broken, contained not the yellow pulp usually mentioned, but a white farinaceous substance enveloping the dark brown seeds, of an agreeable acidulated taste. This may proceed from the fruit being old. The fruit is of an oval form, usually six inches in length, and three or four in diameter; rough externally, and, when mature, of a brownish yellow colour; a dark red gum exuded from the outer part of the fruit.[8]

Some of the farms and plantations were in very fine and luxuriant condition, and this was an enjoyment to us after the arid country we had before seen, destitute almost of vegetation, and covered with loose stones. Of the feathered tribe, although not very numerous, a few were shot by one of the party, among which were two specimens of Halcyon senegalensis, and a fine hawk; quails and Guinea fowls (Numida meleagris, Linn.) were abundant, and several of the former were also shot; the crow and several species of Fringillæ were likewise seen. In the afternoon we returned to the town. The population consists for the most part of mulattos and negroes: fruit, including plantains, bananas, oranges, and pine-apples, was abundant, but not yet fully in season.

Among the very few decent houses in this paltry town, was one, the residence of a Don F. Melo, (who speculates in orchilla weed,) situated in the Plaza, which displays taste and neatness both in the exterior and interior of its arrangement: on the lower land, behind the house, he has laid out with much labour an extensive garden, well irrigated, and in which European and tropical vegetables, fruits, and elegant flowering plants, were thriving in luxuriance, and sufficiently proved that even in that sterile spot, industry and perseverance could surmount almost any difficulty. At the house of this gentleman, I had an opportunity of seeing some excellent specimens of the orchilla weed; this valuable production of the vegetable kingdom is indigenous to this and other islands of the group, as well as to Madeira, the Canaries, and the coast of Barbary; it is the Roccella tinctoria of botanists,[9] and is held in high estimation for the purplish dye it yields, and I believe, excepting the cochineal, is the only dye that possesses a mordant in itself. This lichen is of a gray colour, and those plants which are of the darkest hue, long and strong, are considered the best; it grows to a great length, but is rarely obtained so, as the natives gather it before it comes to any size, on account of its high value.

The quantity collected in one year, among the whole of this group of islands, was 537,600 lbs.; but sometimes a larger quantity is obtained, when, not having much work upon the plantations, the negroes can be employed for the purpose.[10] It is found on the steep rocks in the interior of the islands, and growing in the crevices; the finest orchilla is collected at the island of St. Antonio, where it grows in some places so inaccessible as to be only procured by lowering the gatherer down the cliffs by ropes. This lichen is exported only to Lisbon, there being an order from the Portuguese government to that effect, but quantities were often smuggled direct to some foreign port.[11]

Date palms were very numerous in the vicinity of the town, but did not appear to attain any high degree of perfection, or bear fruit, and were used, for what they alone seemed fit, as firewood.

The troops were decently clad, and consisted of about five hundred, principally negroes and mulattoes, officered by Europeans.

All arrangements having been completed, we left the island in the evening, with a fine north-east trade breeze.

CHAPTER II.

Enter the tropics—Flying fish—Luminosity of the ocean—Magnificent scene—Phosphoric light—Interesting facts in elucidation of that phenomenon—Albicores and Bonitos—A colossal whale—Sea birds—Gigantic species of albatross—Description of those birds—Their manner of flight.

On the 31st of May we lost the north-east trade, in 8° 40′ north, and longitude 23° west, after which we experienced variable winds with torrents of rain, until the 4th of June, when we had the south-east trade in latitude 4° 38′ north, and longitude 22° 49′ west, and crossed the equator early on the morning of the 7th, in longitude 27° 5′ west, being altogether only thirty-two days from Plymouth, including our delay at St. Jago.

On entering the tropics many animate objects excite attention, among others the flying-fish; it is surprising how many different opinions have been formed on the subject of this fish; some considering it seeks the air for sport or pastime, whilst others regard it as only taking flight when pursued, and thus decide its existence to be a continued series of troubles and persecutions. Between such opposite opinions, we can only form our judgment from actual observation, and there is one circumstance without any doubt resting upon it; that the supposed war of extermination exercised against them has not diminished their numbers, for they are observed in as large “flocks” at the present day, as navigators have related of them former days; they must also have had a long cessation of hostilities from the time of birth, to enable them to arrive at maturity. To say that these fish undergo persecution more than any other living animals of the creation, is absurd, for we may observe the same principle throughout the whole of the animated kingdom of nature.

On arriving in tropical regions, this curious fish is seen, and affords some variety to the tedium of a ship; the passengers amusing themselves by watching its flight, and sometimes its “persecution,” when pursued by bonitos, dolphins, albicores, among the finny, and tropic birds, boobies, gannets, &c. among the feathered tribe. I have frequently derived both information and amusement by watching the flight of these fish; to observe them skim the surface of the water for a great distance, sometimes before, and at other times against the direction of the wind, elevating themselves either to a short height from the surface, or to five or six feet, and then, diverging a little from their course, drop suddenly into their proper element; sometimes when their flight was not high above the water, and it blew fresh, they would meet with an elevated wave, which invariably buried them beneath it, but they would often again start from it and renew their flight.

I have never yet been able to see any percussion of the pectoral fins during flight, although such a high authority as Cuvier says, “the animal beats the air during the leap, that is, it alternately expands and closes its pectoral fins;” and Dr. Abel also supports this opinion, and says that it agrees with his experience; he has repeatedly seen the motion of the fins during flight, and as flight is only “swimming in air,” it appears natural that those organs should be used in the same manner in both elements. But the structure of a fin is not that of a wing; the pectoral fins or wings of the flying fish are simply enlarged fins, capable of supporting, perhaps, but not of propelling the animal in its flight.[12]

In fish, the organ of motion for propelling them through the water is the tail, and the fins direct their course; in birds, on the contrary, the wings are the organs of motion, and the tail the rudder. The only use of the extended pectoral fins in the fish is for the purpose of supporting the animal in the air, like a parachute, after it has leaped from the water by some power, which is possessed by fish of much larger size, even the whale. From the structure of the fin, I cannot consider it at all calculated for repeated percussions out of the water, although while in that fluid it continues its natural action uninjured, as it soon dries when brought into contact with the air, and the delicacy of the membrane between the rays would very readily become injured, were the organ similarly exerted in that medium.

The greatest length of time that I have seen these volatile fish on the fin, has been thirty seconds by the watch, and their longest flight, mentioned by Captain Hall, has been two hundred yards; but he thinks that subsequent observation has extended the space. The most usual height of flight, as seen above the surface of the water, is from two to three feet; but I have known them come on board at a height of fourteen feet and upwards; and they have been well-ascertained to come into the channels of a line of battle ship, which is considered as high as twenty feet and upwards.[13]

But it must not be supposed they have the power of elevating themselves in the air, after having left their native element; for on watching them I have often seen them fall much below the elevation at which they first rose from the water, but never in any one instance could I observe them raise themselves from the height at which they first sprang, for I regard the elevation they take to depend on the power of the first spring or leap they make on leaving their native element.

On the 6th of June, in latitude 1° 50′ north, and longitude 25° 14′ west, a flying-fish was brought me by one of the steerage passengers, which had just “flown” on board over his head, as he was standing near the fore-part of the ship; being still alive when he brought it to me, I hastened to place it in a bucket of water, to ascertain whether it would attempt to spring from it, and “take flight;” however, I found it was too late, for after floating about with its long pectoral fins half expanded, as it remained near the surface of the water, it continued alive for about the space of a minute, and then died. They usually, from the violence with which they come on board, receive some injury against the spars, boats, or chains, sufficient to destroy them; and therefore it will be difficult to observe their true actions as when performed in full vigour in their native element. This specimen measured nine inches in length. What excited my attention in this fish was a species of anatifa attached by its peduncle to the thorax. I regard as a very unusual circumstance, the existence of an anatifa attached to a living animal, particularly one of such rapidity of motion as this fish is usually supposed to be. The height at which this fish came on board could not have been less than fourteen feet from the surface of the water, and on the windward side of the vessel.

The “flight” of these fish has been compared to that of birds, so as to deceive the observer; however, I cannot perceive any comparison, one being an elegant, fearless, and independent motion, whilst that of the fish is hurried, stiff, and awkward, more like a creature requiring support for a short period, and then its repeated flights are merely another term for leaps. The fish make a rustling noise, very audible when they are near the ship, dart forward, or sometimes take a curve to bring themselves before the wind, and when fatigued fall suddenly into the water. It is not uncommon to see them, when pursued, drop exhausted, rise again almost instantly, proceed a little further, again dipping into the ocean, so continuing for some distance until they are out of sight, so that we remain in ignorance whether they have been captured or have eluded pursuit.

The flying-fish swim in shoals, for on one day they are seen rising about, and in the vicinity of the ship, in great numbers; and on the day following, or latter part of the same day, only a few stragglers are seen. When disturbed by the passage of the ship through the shoal, they rise in numbers near the bows of the ship, and the consternation seems to spread among those far distant: the same may be observed when dolphins and albicores are pursuing them. On passing between the islands of Fuego and St. Jago, (Cape Verd group,) in December, 1828, I witnessed a number of bonito in pursuit of flying-fish; the former springing several yards out of the water, in eager chase, whilst large shoals of the latter arose with an audible rustling noise before their pursuers, and the chase continued as far as we could see, a number of victims no doubt being sacrificed to the voracity of their hunters. Besides the finny enemies, they had to encounter, as they rose from the water, boobies, gannets, and tropic birds, which hovered about, and in our view secured very many as they sought refuge in the air. It was a novel sight, and one not often witnessed during repeated voyages, and afforded much amusement and interest to those who beheld it.[14]

Occasionally our attention was excited during the voyage, by the remarkable luminosity assumed by the ocean in every direction, like rolling masses of liquid fire, as the waves broke and exhibited an appearance inconceivably grand and beautiful. The phosphoric light, given out by the ocean, exists to a more extensive and brilliant degree in tropical regions, although in high latitudes it is occasionally visible, more especially during the warm months of the year. The cause of it has excited much speculation among naturalists; and although many of the marine molluscous and crustaceous animals, such as salpa, pyrosoma, cancer, several medusæ have been found to occasion it, yet no doubt debris, from dead animal matter, with which sea water is usually loaded, is also often one of the exciting causes.

As the ship sails with a strong breeze through a luminous sea on a dark night, the effect produced is then seen to the greatest advantage. The wake of the vessel is one broad sheet of phosphoric matter, so brilliant as to cast a dull, pale light over the after-part of the ship; the foaming surges, as they gracefully curl on each side of the vessel’s prow, are similar to rolling masses of liquid phosphorus; whilst in the distance, even to the horizon, it seems an ocean of fire, and the distant waves breaking, give out a light of an inconceivable beauty and brilliancy: in the combination, the effect produces sensations of wonder and awe, and causes a reflection to arise on the reason of its appearance, as to which as yet no correct judgment has been formed, the whole being overwhelmed with mere hypothesis.

Sometimes the luminosity is very visible without any disturbance of the water, its surface remaining smooth, unruffled even by a passing zephyr; whilst on other occasions no light is emitted unless the water is agitated by the winds, or by the passage of some heavy body through it. Perhaps the beauty of this luminous effect is seen to the greatest advantage when the ship, lying in a bay or harbour in tropical climates, the water around has the resemblance of a sea of milk. An opportunity was afforded me when at Cavité, near Manilla, in 1830, of witnessing for the first time this beautiful scene: as far as the eye could reach over the extensive bay of Manilla, the surface of the tranquil water was one sheet of this dull, pale, phosphorescence; and brilliant flashes were emitted instantly on any heavy body being cast into the water, or when fish sprang from it or swam about; the ship seemed, on looking over its side, to be anchored in a sea of liquid phosphorus, whilst in the distance the resemblance was that of an ocean of milk.

The night to which I allude, when this magnificent appearance presented itself to my observation, was exceedingly dark, which, by the contrast, gave an increased sublimity to the scene; the canopy of the heavens was dark and gloomy; not even the glimmering of a star was to be seen; while the sea of liquid fire cast a deadly pale light over every part of the vessel, her masts, yards, and hull; the fish meanwhile sporting about in numbers, varying the scene by the brilliant flashes they occasioned. It would have formed, I thought at the time, a sublime and beautiful subject for an artist, like Martin, to execute with his judgment and pencil, that is, if any artist could give the true effect of such a scene, on which I must express some doubts.

It must not be for a moment conceived that the light described as brilliant, and like to a sea of “liquid fire,” is of the same character as the flashes produced by the volcano, or by lightning, or meteors. No: it is the light of phosphorus, as the matter truly is, pale, dull, approaching to a white or very pale yellow, casting a melancholy light on objects around, only emitting flashes by collision. To read by it is possible, but not agreeable; and, on an attempt being made, it is almost always found that the eyes will not endure the peculiar light for any length of time, as headaches and sickness are often occasioned by it. I have frequently observed at Singapore, that, although the tranquil water exhibits no particular luminosity, yet when disturbed by the passage of a boat, it gives out phosphoric matter, leaving a brilliant line in the boat’s wake, and the blades of the oars when raised from the water seem to be dripping with liquid phosphorus.

Even between the tropics, the phosphoric light is increased or diminished in its degree of brilliancy, in a very slight difference of latitude; on one day it would be seen to a most magnificent extent, on the next it would be perhaps merely a few luminous flashes. It might proceed from the shoals of marine animals, that caused the brilliancy to be less extensively distributed over one part of the ocean than another. That I am correct in asserting that some of the animals which occasion the phosphoric light, emitted by the ocean, do travel in shoals, and are distributed in some latitudes only in a very limited range, I insert two facts which occurred during this voyage, and which will no doubt be regarded as interesting.

On the 8th of June, being then in latitude 00° 30′ south, and longitude 27° 5′ west, having fine weather and a fresh south-easterly trade wind, and range of the thermometer being from 78° to 84°, late at night the mate of the watch came and called me to witness a very unusual appearance in the water, which he, on first seeing, considered to be breakers. On arriving upon the deck, this was found to be a very broad and extensive sheet of phosphorescence, extending in a direction from east to west as far as the eye could reach; the luminosity was confined to the range of animals in this shoal, for there was no similar light in any other direction. I immediately cast the towing net over the stern of the ship as we approached nearer the luminous streak, to ascertain the cause of this extraordinary and so limited a phenomenon. The ship soon cleaved through the brilliant mass, from which, by the disturbance, strong flashes of light were emitted; and the shoal (judging from the time the vessel took in passing through the mass) may have been a mile in breadth: the passage of the vessel through them, increased the light around to a far stronger degree, illuminating the ship. On taking in the towing net, it was found half filled with pyrosoma, (atlanticum?) which shone with a beautiful pale greenish light, and there was also a few small fish in the net at the same time; after the mass had been passed through, the light was still seen astern until it became invisible in the distance, and the whole of the ocean then became hidden in darkness as before this took place. The scene was as novel as it was beautiful and interesting, more so from having ascertained, by capturing the luminous animals, the cause of the phenomenon.

The second was not exactly similar to the preceding; but, although also limited, was curious, as occurring in a high latitude during the winter season. It was on the 19th of August,[15] the weather dark and gloomy, with light breezes from north-north-east, in latitude 40° 30′ south, and longitude 138° 3′ east, being then distant about three hundred and sixty-eight miles from King’s Island, (at the western entrance of Bass’s Straits). It was about eight o’clock, P.M. when the ship’s wake was perceived to be luminous, and scintillations of the same light were also abundant around. As this was unusual and had not been seen before, and it occasionally also appeared in larger or smaller detached masses giving out a high degree of brilliancy: to ascertain the cause, so unusual in high latitudes during the winter season, I threw the towing net overboard, and in twenty minutes succeeded in capturing several pyrosoma, giving out their usual pale green light; and it was no doubt detached groups of these animals, that were the occasion of the light in question. The beautiful light given out by these molluscous animals soon subsided, (being seen emitted from every part of their bodies,) but by moving them about it could be reproduced for some length of time after. As long as the luminosity of the ocean was visible, (which continued most part of the night,) a number of Pyrosoma atlanticum, two species of Phyllosoma, an animal apparently allied to Leptocephalus, as well as several crustaceous animals, all of which I had before considered as inter-tropical species, were caught and preserved. At half-past ten, P.M. the temperature of the atmosphere on deck was 52°, and that of the water 51½°. The luminosity of the water gradually decreased during the night, and towards morning was no longer seen, nor on any subsequent night.[16]

Albicores,[17] bonitos, and even a colossal whale close under the stern, beguiled a tedious hour, until we arrived in latitudes where the various species of albatross, cape petrel, and other oceanic birds afforded a change from the “finny” to the “feathered” tribe. We lost the south-east trade on the 13th of June, in about 14° 30′ south, and long. 32° 14′. west. In lat. 30° 0′ south, and long. 24° 18′ west, on the 25th of June, cape petrels[18] were first seen, and increased in numbers as we proceeded, continuing about the ship, in greater or less numbers, even to Port Jackson; albatrosses were not seen until we arrived in lat. 36° south, long. 5° 18′ west, when several species of this bird were often about the vessel.

Besides the sight of flying fish, sharks, dolphins, and other deep-water fish; cape petrels, albatrosses, and other oceanic birds, serve to banish the sameness of a sea voyage, and that ennui which lays its benumbing hand upon those who have but few resources in themselves, and looking for it in objects around, too often feel disappointed. It is usually about the 29° of latitude, and 26° of west longitude, that the gigantic species of albatross is usually first seen, as well as the smaller but not less elegant species of the same bird. At first but few are seen, but they increase in numbers as the vessel gets into more southern latitudes; at some seasons of the year they appear more numerous than at others, which may be attributed to the pairing time, which may keep them, at certain seasons, nearer the rocky islets upon which they breed or rear their young. The large white or wandering albatross,[19] (Diomedia exulans,) the type of the genus, excites much interest by its majestic appearance, either when almost sweeping the sides of the vessel with its huge pinions, or when beheld a prisoner on the ship’s deck, realizing the idea of the famed roc (allowing for the brilliant and exaggerated descriptions usual in all eastern nations) mentioned in the Arabian Nights’ Entertainments.[20]

It is pleasing to observe this superb bird sailing in the air in graceful and elegant movements, seemingly excited by some invisible power, for there is rarely any movement of the wings seen, after the first and frequent impulses given, when the creature elevates itself in the air; rising and falling as if some concealed power guided its various motions, without any muscular exertion of its own; and then descending sweeps the air close to the stern of the ship, with an independence of manner, as if it were “monarch of all it surveyed.” It is from the very little muscular exertion used by these birds, that they are capable of sustaining such long nights without repose.

When these elegant birds are captured, and brought on board, their sleek, delicate and clean plumage is a subject of much admiration; and the fine snow-white down which remains after the removal of the outer feathers, is in requisition among ladies for muffs, tippets, &c. The large species of albatross measures from eight to fourteen feet. I have even heard it asserted, that specimens have been shot of this species, the expanded wings of which measured twenty feet across; but the greatest spread I have seen, has been fourteen feet.[21] The immense distance these birds are capable of flying, seems almost incredible, although often ascertained by birds having been caught, marked, and again set at liberty. When seizing an object floating on the water, they gradually descend with expanded or upraised wings, or sometimes alight, and float like a duck on the water, while devouring their food; then, elevating themselves, they skim the surface of the ocean with expanded wings, giving frequent impulses, (as the great length of their wings prevents their rising with facility from a level surface,) as they run along for some distance, until they again soar in mid-air, and recommence their erratic flights. It is interesting to view them during boisterous weather, flying with, and even against, the wind, seeming the “gayest of the gay” in the midst of howling winds and foaming waves.

To watch the flight of these birds used to afford me much amusement;—commencing with the difficulty experienced by them in elevating themselves from the water. To effect this object, they spread their long pinions to the utmost, giving them repeated impulses as they run along the surface of the water for some distance. Having, by these exertions, raised themselves above the wave, they ascend and descend, and cleave the atmosphere in various directions, without any apparent muscular exertion. How then, it may be asked, do these birds execute such movements? The whole surface of the body in this, as well as, I believe, most, if not all, the oceanic tribes, is covered by numerous air-cells, capable of a voluntary inflation or diminution, by means of a beautiful muscular apparatus. By this power, the birds can raise or depress themselves at will, and the tail, and great length of the wing, enable them to steer in any direction. Indeed, without some provision of this kind, to save muscular exertion, it would be impossible for these birds to undergo such long flights without repose, as they have been known to do; for the muscles appertaining to the organs of flight, although large in these birds, are evidently inadequate in power to the long distances they have been known to fly, and the immense length of time they remain on the wing, without scarcely a moment’s cessation.

When several species of the albatross, as well as petrels and other oceanic birds, are about the ship at the same time, no combats have been seen to take place between them; but on the death of one, the others soon fall upon and devour it. When one of this tribe of birds is captured and brought upon the deck, it appears to be a very muscular bird,—judging from its external form. This deception is occasioned by the quantity of down and feathers, with a very dense integument, and the air-cells being often inflated in a slight degree. When these are removed, the body of the bird is found to be of a smaller size than would have been supposed, and, comparatively speaking, does not possess the muscular power, which, from its long flights, our ideas might lead us to suppose. I remarked that the albatross would lower himself even to the water’s edge, and elevate himself again without any apparent impulse; nor could I observe any percussion of the wings when the flight was directed against the wind,—but then, of course, its progress was tardy. Many, however, have differed with me in considering that the birds never fly “dead against the wind,” but in that manner, which sailors term, “close to the wind,” and thus make progress, aided by, when seemingly flying against, the wind.[22]

The different species or varieties of the albatross, are but little understood; in the course of a long voyage but few opportunities occur to any person acquainted with natural history to examine specimens, and consequently our knowledge respecting them is limited to a very few facts. It is not in many instances that a new species can be defined; age and sex often producing differences which are frequently regarded as specific characters. If persons, who may feel an interest, or have studied this interesting science, would note down the differences of plumage, size, and sex, &c. of the birds captured, in course of time a mass of information might be collected, which would serve, in some degree, to determine the different changes of plumage undergone by the various species.[23]

On the 21st of August, the south end of King’s Island was seen, bearing east-north-east, by compass, at a distance of thirty miles. We entered Bass’s Straits on the same night, and anchored in Sydney Cove, Port Jackson, on the morning of the 25th of August.

CHAPTER III.

Sombre appearance of the Australian coast—Feelings of an emigrant on approaching it—Improvement of Sydney—Fruits produced in the colony—Extent of the town—Cultivation of flowers and culinary vegetables—House-rent—The streets—Parrots—Shops—Impolicy of continuing the colony as a penal settlement—The theatre—Aspect of the country in the vicinity of Sydney—The grass tree—Floral beauties—Larva of a curious insect—The colonial museum—Visit to Elizabeth Bay—Valuable botanical specimens in the garden of the Honourable Alexander Macleay—New Zealand flax—Articles manufactured from that vegetable—Leave Sydney—Residence of Mr. M’Arthur—Forest flowers—Acacias—Paramatta—Swallows.

As we sailed by the Australian coast, its barren aspect neither cheered or invited the stranger’s eye; even where vegetation grew upon its shores, it displayed so sombre an appearance as to impart no animation to the scenery of the coast. To an emigrant, one who has left the land of his fathers, to rear his family and lay his bones in a distant soil, the first view of this, his adopted country, cannot excite in his bosom any emotions of pleasurable gratification; despondency succeeds the bright rays of hope, and he compares with heartfelt regret the arid land before him with the fertile country he has forsaken, because it afforded not sustenance for himself and family, and thus reluctantly caused him to sever the affectionate ties that united him to dear friends in his native land—the place of his birth—the soil and habitation of his forefathers for centuries.

One does not behold the graceful waving of the cocoa palm, the broad and vivid green foliage of the plantain, nor the beautiful luxuriance of a tropical vegetation, which delight the vision of the wearied voyager on a first approach to a tropical region, where the soil teems with cultivation, or a profuse natural vegetation extending from the loftiest mountains even to the ocean’s brink. But on landing and viewing the interior of Australia, the wanderer, although seeing much to confirm his first impressions, will also view many parts of the country recalling to his memory features resembling the land he has left; and as industry gives him wealth and independence, and he finds his family easily maintained, he becomes reconciled to his choice, and remains comparatively if not entirely happy.

Sydney was much improved and enlarged since my last visit in 1829; provisions were abundant and exceedingly cheap, the shipping being supplied with fresh beef at one penny a pound, and even less; vegetables are also very abundant, except in the most arid of the summer months; and fruit is, during the summer months, plentiful, and a great portion of excellent quality, consisting of several varieties of peaches, apricots, apples, pears, water-melons, loquats, grapes, plums, and strawberries, &c. Fruit of a superior kind obtains a high price, but the common kinds are very cheap; peaches for preserves or tarts being hawked about the streets at a penny a dozen. Gooseberries will not succeed in the vicinity of Sydney, but this fruit has been produced in the Argyle and Bathurst districts. Grapes have lately been perfected in the colony in great abundance, both as to size and flavour; and much attention is now devoted by the colonists to the cultivation of the vine; for which, from its prolific and early bearing, the Australian soil seems to be exceedingly well calculated.

Several enterprising individuals have introduced the different species and varieties of vines from Spain, France, Portugal, &c. &c. producing grapes, valuable in the manufacture of wine, as also for the dessert; and we may hope that the time is not distant when grapes will abound in Australia as they at present do at the Cape, and that wine both for home-consumption and exportation will be made from them. The immense increase of grapes in the colony during the last two or three years, leads one to suppose that the above opinion will speedily be confirmed.

On making a circuit around the town of Sydney, the metropolis of the Australian colony, the extent of ground it occupies, the number of buildings completed, as well as those erecting for the increased and still increasing population, the variety and neatness of the shops, excite the surprise of a stranger, and still more of a person who revisits the town after a brief absence, at the rapid improvements that have taken place in this distant colony in so short a period of time. The humble wooden dwellings are fast giving place to neat houses and cottages constructed of brick or sandstone; but, as may be expected in all recently established towns, there is much want of symmetry in the construction of the buildings; and on perambulating the streets, specimens of several unknown orders of architecture are seen; the cottage style, with neat verandas, is one much adopted for private dwellings, and has a neatness of external appearance, with which the interior usually corresponds. Many have neat gardens attached to them, in which, during the summer season, the blooming rose, as well as the pink, the stock, and other European flowers, impart a beauty, and remind one of home; or, in lieu of these gay vegetable productions, the industrious housekeeper has caused the plot of ground to be planted with peas, beans, cabbages, and other culinary vegetables. The tree cabbage, common on the European continent, but rarely seen in England, I observed introduced in the gardens; it thrives well in the colony.

House-rent is excessively high in the colony, being one of the greatest expenses to a resident in Sydney; it varies from sixty to two hundred and fifty pounds annually. The streets being of sandstone, the constant attrition of it by vehicles, &c. produces, from its friability, much dust, which occasions, during windy days, much annoyance; from the same cause, the streets are often out of repair, and the best material for repairing them is a kind of flinty stone, brought by ships from Hobart Town as ballast.

Parrots are, perhaps, of all the feathered tribe, the most numerous in the colony; and different species are lauded for speaking, whistling, and other noisy accomplishments. No one can walk the streets of Sydney or any of the villages of the colony, or enter an inn or dwelling-house, without seeing this class of birds hung about in cages, and having his ears assailed by the screeching, babbling, and whistling noises which issue from their vocal organs: it is the street music of the colony, and “pretty polly,” “sweet polly,” are tender sounds which issue from the exterior as well as interior of every dwelling. These birds are evidently gifted with the bump of talkativeness. It was once asserted, that ladies kept the birds to converse with when alone, which served a double purpose—that of being to them both practice and amusement.

The best view of the town, shipping, and adjacent country is that seen from the “rocks,” and the prospect afforded from this elevated situation is very fine. Shops of all kinds are rapidly multiplying; and lately there have been extensive emigrations of artisans of all descriptions from every part of the united kingdom; butchers, bakers, pastrycooks, provision merchants, shoemakers, apothecaries, fancy-bread bakers, booksellers, &c. &c. are numerous, and have neat, and some even elegant shops; the press sends forth their cards and circulars, and large posting bills, printed in a neat and even superior manner, equal to any similar production in our country towns in England. Circulating libraries and literary reading rooms are now becoming numerous, for the Australians are desirous of being a reading as well as a thinking people, and are anxious to have the permission of legislating for themselves; but whilst the free and emancipist parties are each desirous of gaining an ascendancy in colonial affairs, it would certainly not be advisable to grant the boon; both have their interests at home, and the emancipists are a wealthy and powerful body; and although I am not anxious to enter into the political affairs of the colony, I would, while on this subject, merely wish to suggest the expediency, from the wealth and importance of this part of the Australian colony, to no longer use it as a penal settlement, but encourage free emigration of labourers, and send the convicts to a new colony, which might be founded at the northern portion of the extensive Australian territory; then there can be no doubt that party spirit will in some degree subside, and the colony will increase still more in prosperity, being undivided by any party feeling.

It is well known that free emigration is detested by most of the convict party, and a wealthy individual of this class once remarked, “What have the free emigrants to do here? the colony was founded for us, they have no right here;” and that individual, from his wealth, would probably be elected a member of a future House of Assembly. The emigration of wealthy settlers has been much retarded by the government order, that no grants of land are to be given, but only purchased; until that order is repealed, no great increase of settlers for agricultural purposes will take place; one grant—but one grant only—ought to be given to the emigrant on his arrival in the colony as before; and those who may be desirous of having an additional grant, may then be able to effect it by purchase; the land sold since the new order has been in operation, has been principally, if not entirely, purchased by those among the settlers who were desirous of increasing the extent of their property, and from the vicinity of the “selection” to their former grant, can afford to give a higher price for it, than the newly arrived settler, ignorant of the quality of the land, and the district in which it may be situated.

A theatre having been licensed by the governor, and lately opened by a select company of performers, I visited it one night to ascertain the actual state of the drama in the colony, as also to see the mingled society which would be brought together by such a novel place of amusement. On the night mentioned, I visited it with a party of friends; the evening’s entertainment was the “Heir at Law,” and “Bombastes Furioso.” The interior of the theatre (which was fitted up as a temporary measure, in a large room of the Royal Hotel[24]) is small, and is used only until one more complete can be erected: considering the disadvantages under which theatrical exhibitions must labour in so young a colony, the “tout ensemble” far exceeded what I had expected. The pit and boxes (for there was no gallery) might probably contain one hundred and fifty persons. To speak of the performance of Colman’s celebrated comedy, would be to say it was beneath criticism; and the actors seemed determined to “play the comedy” after a manner of their own, substituting passages of their own for those of the author, in defiance of all dramatic rules.

The greatest novelty of the evening was a young Australian actress, to whom the drama was as much a novelty as she became to us this evening; and consequently she had no medium of comparison by which her judgment could be directed. Her predominant fault was a want of feeling. In the very affecting scene, where poor Henry, long supposed to be lost, returns to his beloved and disconsolate Caroline—he was in ranting raptures, while she received him in the most hard-hearted manner that can be conceived, uttered the expressions placed by the author into her mouth as a mere matter of course; and, as the unfeeling creature evidently showed that she neither felt nor understood the sentiments uttered, it proved no affecting scene either to actors or auditors. However, “Advance Australia;” the lady and the colony, we thought, are both young. As for the rest of the corps, they too often mistook indecency for wit, and probably by so doing they pleased the majority of their audience; if so, both parties would be satisfied. The pit contained those usually seen in the galleries of the theatre at home; and squabbles, threats, and actual combats, served to amuse some, and discipline others; and the various scenes and expressions in both pit and boxes excited in our minds any thing but an idea of the sublime and beautiful. It may also be worthy of remark, as a proof of the increasing morality of the colony, that no one was stationed at the doors, as in our depraved metropolis, warning you to “take care of your pockets;” and that neither myself, or any gentlemen in company, either in our ingress or egress, had our pockets picked.

The domain and country in the immediate vicinity of Sydney was assuming (in September) a gay and brilliant aspect from the profusion of flowering shrubs and plants strewed over the arid soil; there was, however, a peculiar character in the vegetation, the foliage of the trees having a dry appearance, and being destitute of the lustre so observable in those of other countries. This want of lustre is attributed by that justly celebrated botanist, Dr. Brown, to the equal existence of cutaneous glands on both surfaces of the leaf;[25] and another peculiarity is the trees attaining a great elevation, with branches only at the summit, and shedding their bark; some of the trees being seen perfectly decorticated and appearing in a smooth new bark, whilst others have the outer bark not yet quite thrown off, but hanging in long strips from the trunk. These peculiarities, in combination with others, convey to us different ideas from those formed from the vegetation of other countries.

Among the beauties of the kingdom of Flora, which are lavished so profusely in this colony, the different species of the Banksia[26] genus (or honeysuckle, as all the species are indiscriminately termed by the colonists) would arrest the attention of the stranger, by its peculiar growth as well as remarkable flowers; the species Banksia ericifolia was most profusely in bloom, its erect tufts of orange-coloured flowers imparting to it a lively appearance. That curious and interesting tree the Xanthorrhœa,—yellow gum or grass tree of the colonists,—would attract observation from its peculiar growth, the trunk being surmounted by long grassy foliage, from the centre of which arises a long scape terminated by a cylindrical spike, either crowded with its small white flowers of sickly odour, or with dark coloured angulated capsules, containing small black seeds. The flowers of the several species secrete a honey, which exudes at first like dew-drops, and afterwards concretes into an albumen, attracting multitudes of insects, which soon deface the purity the flowers before presented. The natives readily produce fire by rubbing two pieces of the trunk of this tree together.

This tree is found abundantly in several parts of the colony, and there are already seven described species. It is named “grass tree” by the colonists from its long pendent grassy foliage, and “yellow gum tree” from secreting a quantity of yellowish gum.[27] It is a tree of curious growth, and I have seen the species called hastile from eight to ten feet high, and the trunk sometimes surmounted by from two to four heads; each bearing a flowering stem, which rises from the centre of the foliage to the length of six feet and upwards: it is round and very light, combining lightness with strength, and is used by the aborigines for making their spears, fish gigs, &c. The scape terminates in a cylindrical spike; the flowers are small, white, and numerous; an albumen is secreted from them of a sweet taste, which is eaten by the natives and birds, and is also a source of attraction to multitudes of ants and other insects; the capsules are triangular, and contain three flat black seeds in distinct cells.

It secretes a yellow gum, resembling very much in appearance, though not in quality, the gamboge; externally it has a dull yellow appearance, but breaks with a bright yellow fracture, and is often streaked internally with red. In its natural state it has no fragrant smell, but by the action of fire it diffuses an agreeable odour, resembling that produced by frankincense, instead of which, I believe, it has been used in the Roman Catholic churches on the continent. It exudes spontaneously from the trunk, in very small globules, and is found in very thin layers about the bases of the petioles of the leaves, but may be melted into large masses.

The resin (more commonly known as the gum acaroides) is slightly bitter, pungent and astringent, and has been used in dyspeptic, dysenteric, and other cases; but not with such success as to cause it to be admitted into our materia medica.

The floral beauties were profusely lavished, and the brilliancy and gaiety they impart to the otherwise arid country during the full flowering season, are to be equalled but by few countries. The present season was later than usual, from the coldness of the weather continuing for a more advanced period of the year than had been experienced for many years in New South Wales. On our arrival the thermometer was lower than we had experienced it in 41° south latitude, or when passing the Cape during the winter season. During the remainder of the month of August, the range of the thermometer was min. 45°, max. 58°.

Besides the Banksia,[28] or honeysuckles, the Boronias, Epacris grandiflora, with its elegant pendent blossoms, and two species of Kennedia,[29] one bearing red and the other small blue flowers entwined over the shrubs in their vicinity; the other golden and fragrant flowers of the Acacias (of which genus the colony possesses a large number of indigenous species) gave an additional beauty to the otherwise arid character of the vegetation; the Xylomelum pyriforme, or wooden pear-tree, so called from its exceedingly hard woody fruits, is seen abundant in the vicinity of Sydney, several are seen from thirty to thirty-five feet in elevation, and two feet in circumference. A splendid Bignonia overspread the rocks, decked with its pendulous clusters of tinted blossoms; and two large and parisitical Dendrobiums, in full flower, adorned the rough trunk of one of the eucalyptus tribe to which it had attached itself for sustenance; and the different species of Grevillea, Leptospermum, Pimelia, Lambertia, Crowea, and a number of others, added to the animated appearance of the soil. On the north shore the shrubs and plants, now in full flower, were more abundant; the arid soil was brilliant with the variety of tints emanating from them, combining to charm the eye with their beauty, but were destitute of that agreeable fragrance for which the flowers of European climes are so highly esteemed.

On the Leptospermum I remarked an insect, or rather the larva of some Coleopterous insect, pending from a sprig and enclosed in a case of a woven substance, strengthened externally by bits of twigs; the insect to which this larva belongs is unknown to me, nor have I been able to see it described in any entomological work; the only publication in which I have seen it mentioned, is in the catalogue of the museum of the Royal College of Surgeons in London, part 4, fasc. 1. “Preparations of Natural History in Spirit,” page 117, No. 438. “Larva of a Coleopterous Insect in its Case.”

It attaches itself to the sprigs of shrubs, and, like the caddis worms, protects itself by a habitation from which it can protrude the anterior part of its body, being attached internally to its case by the tail, and by that means can feed and change its locality at pleasure, bearing its case with it, and re-attaching itself to any other place that may suit its habits; thus I have had them moving about in my room, attaching themselves to one place, and then removing to another; at first much to my surprise at their power of mobility, until I saw it was effected by the protrusion of the larva from its habitation. The case is composed internally of a very tough web, and the exterior is covered by bits of twigs interwoven upon it in a perpendicular direction; it suspends itself from the twig by a strong cluster of filaments. I have found this larva enclosed in its case of various sizes from three to six inches; this has led me to conclude that, like the caddis worms, they increase in size in the larva state, enlarging their habitations as the former ones become too small for the increased size of their bodies. I found, by cutting one of the cases open, that they readily repair any injury their dwellings may have sustained, for a few hours only having elapsed after I had made the incision to view the contained larva, I found the case restored as firmly as before.

In company with my friend, Mr. Lauga, I visited the colonial museum, which is arranged for the present in a small room, assigned for the purpose, in the council-house, and which had been recently established at Sydney: it forms an excellent nucleus for a splendid collection, particularly in a country so prolific in rare, valuable, and beautiful specimens of natural productions. For the present, the ornithological collection is by far the best, both for the number, and being beautifully stuffed and “set up” in attitudes, from which it is evident that nature has been closely studied. Specimens of the families Columbæ, Psittaceæ,[30] Raptores, &c. are the most numerous. There are also several of the mammalia, and reptiles of the colony in the collection.

But, in a country where specimens could be procured in the majority of instances in almost any number, it would be of great interest to the lover of science, as well as to the admirer of nature, and also considerably increase the value of the collection and the advancement of scientific knowledge, if, besides among the birds, the male and female specimens being preserved, any showing the changes of plumage, which so frequently occur in the feathered tribe from the juvenile to the adult age; the nest and eggs, together with the skeletons, or any remarkable anatomical peculiarity, should also be preserved. The same system may be adopted with respect to other animals, reptiles, and insects, arranged each under the separate families and genera, so as, in a comparatively short period of time, to form as valuable a collection of Australian natural productions as has ever been collected in any part of the world. Native weapons, utensils, and other specimens of the arts, as existing among the Aborigines, as well as the skulls of the different tribes, and accurate drawings of their peculiar cast of features, would be a desirable addition. At the present time, such might be procured without much difficulty; but it is equally certain, as well as much to be regretted, that the tribes in the settled parts of the colony are fast decreasing, and many, if not all, will, at no distant period, be known but by name. Here, in a public museum, the remains of the arts, &c. as existing among them, may be preserved as lasting memorials of the former races inhabiting the lands, when they had ceased to exist.

The botanical productions of the colony may also be kept in a dried state for reference, together with specimens of the woods in different stages of growth. Peculiarities in the economy of any of the animals might be preserved as wet preparations, and to the whole collection, systematically arranged, as well as the scientific, (or hard names, as the ladies call them,) let also the popular, colonial and native names, be attached. The council has liberally granted the sum of two hundred pounds annually out of the colonial funds, for the support of the museum; a hundred and thirty pounds of which is a salary to the collector and staffers of specimens of natural history for the collection, and the remainder is expended for cases, &c.; but encouragement should be held out for donations, as is usual in other public collections.[31] At all events, the commencement of the public museum is excellent; and science, I believe, is indebted for its institution to the Honourable Alexander Macleay, colonial secretary; and may he see it attain an importance which no one can enjoy or appreciate more than himself, who has devoted the leisure moments of a long and arduous life engaged in other important occupations, to the study of the natural sciences.

In company with my friend, Lieutenant Breton, R. N., I visited Elizabeth Bay, about two miles distant from Sydney, and the property of the Honourable Alexander Macleay. The situation is beautiful, being in a retired bay or cove of Port Jackson, and the garden and farm is near the sea. This spot, naturally of the most sterile description, has been rendered, at a great expense and perseverance, in some degree productive as a nursery for rare trees, shrubs, and plants, from all parts of the world. We were much gratified with the valuable and rare specimens the garden contained, and surprised that a spot possessed of no natural advantages should have been rendered, comparatively, a little paradise.

In the garden, a species of cactus was pointed out to me by the gardener, Mr. Henderson, which Mr. Macleay had brought some years ago from Rio Janeiro: it had flowered at the usual time, and they had changed into what had the usual external form of the fruit. On making a section of one, it had the usual fructual character, although in an immature state. I was, however, informed that the fruit never attained maturity, but became as one of the branches, blossoms being produced from it, which would again produce fruit, and that fruit would not ripen, but again produce flowers, so continuing during the whole of the flowering season, without ripening any fruit, having consequently a curious anomaly of fruit producing flowers, instead of flowers producing fruit. It has always, during the time it has been planted in the garden, exhibited this phenomenon, which was never observed in the plant from which this was taken at Rio. It must therefore be considered as a curious anomaly in vegetation.

The greatest importer and manufacturer of New Zealand flax[32] in the colony is Mr. Maclaren. I visited his extensive establishment, which had just been completed on the north shore near Sydney, for the cleaning and manufacture of the flax into rope. He has also establishments at New Zealand, from whence he imports the flax, exporting some to England, and manufacturing the remainder into cordage for the use of the colonial vessels. He has also a powerful hydraulic press, for the purpose of compressing the flax into bales for exportation. He manufactures from this material a large quantity of whale lines for the colonial whalers, who speak in high terms of the quality of the rope, for that purpose. The rope manufactured from this flax, takes the tar readily, and the small lines are passed through it previous to their being made into rope of larger size.[33]

As I hope the time is not far distant when its value will be more appreciated, and the prejudice, at present so much against it, will have diminished, I may perhaps be excused in giving an account of this valuable plant from my own observations during a visit to New Zealand.

This valuable plant is regarded by the natives of New Zealand as sacred, but is probably an object of veneration for its value in manufactures, as it is neither employed in religious or other ceremonies. It grows principally in moist, marshy soil, but I have also observed it growing on the declivities of hills. The leaves are ensiform, of a bright green colour, with a rim of orange along the margin: the foliage attains the elevation of five to seven feet, and resembles in mode of growth our water flags: the flower stalk rises to the elevation of four or five feet beyond the foliage, and bears a profusion of liliaceous flowers of a reddish yellow colour, succeeded by triangular capsules, filled with numerous oblong, flattened, black seeds. The leaves grow perfectly erect, but are figured incorrectly in Cook’s first voyage, and other works, as they are delineated bending towards the ground, which from their rigidity they are, unless broken, unable to do. The flax procured from this plant is situated (unlike all other kinds with which we are acquainted) in the leaves, where the fibres run in a longitudinal direction, covered by the epidermis. There are several varieties of it indigenous to New Zealand, from some of which the flax is procured of much finer quality than others. I collected much finer specimens of the flax from the vicinity of the River Thames, New Zealand, than from the Bay of Islands.

The flax is used by the natives of New Zealand for a variety of purposes; from it they manufacture very strong fishing-lines, and also a variety of handsome and durable mats, which are used both by males and females for clothing. The method adopted by the natives of New Zealand, for the separation of the fibre from the other parts of the leaf, is as follows:—The leaves, when full grown, are cut down, the most perfect selected, and a lateral incision is made with a shell on each side of the leaf, so as simply to cut through the epidermis; the shell is then, with a gentle pressure, drawn from one of the incisions rapidly down the leaf, and is afterwards repeated on the other side; by this, the whole of the external epidermis is readily removed; the internal epidermis, which is of very thin texture, usually remains, but sometimes it is in the greatest part removed together with the external: the internal seems to unite the fibres of the leaf more intimately together, and if not cleaned from the flax when in a recent state, is removed afterwards with great difficulty; and when it is suffered to remain, renders the flax less valuable as an article of commerce.

In the preparation of the flax, as well as in the manufacture of it into matting, the females are employed, and custom renders them very expert. Before, however, the flax is manufactured into matting, it is previously soaked in water, and afterwards beaten, by which it becomes more pliable and soft. The plant is named koradi by the natives; and when the flax is prepared, it is named muka. This plant alone would render New Zealand a valuable colony to the British nation. At present the flax is used in England only in the manufacture of cordage, &c.; but if the best varieties, indigenous to New Zealand, were selected, (for they differ materially in the fineness of the fibre,) and proper care and attention bestowed on the cleaning, when in a recent state, it may, there can be no doubt, be employed in the manufacture of linen of very fine quality.

Previous to being used for cordage, Mr. Maclaren has the flax well hackled, which materially improves its quality and appearance: could it be exported in this improved state, it cannot be doubted that much of the prejudice now existing against its use would be removed; for the epidermis of the leaves being entirely removed when the flax is well cleaned, the fibres will, as a matter of course, unite closer together, affording a united and stronger resistance; but Mr. Maclaren informs me that the expense attending the hackling in this colony would not repay him at the price the material at present obtains in England, or even were it to advance to its former high price.

At present this gentleman cannot manufacture cordage at a less price than a ship from England could bring it out as stores, but still at a lower rate than the Europe cordage sent out on freight for sale; in the colony it is therefore cheaper to colonial vessels, and is found very durable. It has been used three years and upwards as running gear for shipping, and highly approved of; from the flax having been sent home in an uncleaned state, it has been rendered almost unsaleable, and gave an opportunity for those prejudiced to depreciate its value. From the natural indolence of the New Zealanders, it is difficult to procure the flax from them in a better dressed state, until some of them are taught the art of hackling it, which would be advisable to be done immediately. To attempt to clean the flax from the epidermis in any but during the recent state, is a labour of difficulty, from its close connexion with the fibres, by which a great loss in weight would necessarily be sustained.

Captain P. P. King, R. N. (who may be considered high authority,) when on the survey of the Australian coast, used rope manufactured from this flax, and he commends it highly for running rigging. I was also informed by a mercantile gentleman, that from its unclean state (as well as from bending the fibres in packing, by which the edges decaying, the length of staple is diminished one-half) it has become quite unsaleable at home, and the opposition to it by the Riga flax importers tends still more to crush it, the badly cleaned state of the flax giving them a strong ground for its condemnation.

On the 9th of September I left Sydney, with the intention of calling on my friends in the vicinity, and then proceeding into the interior of the colony. I passed an agreeable day with the amiable family of Major Lockyer, at his pretty residence at the Field of Mars, near Kissing[34] Point, and situated upon the banks of the Paramatta creek or river.[35]

After an agreeable day’s sojourn I left for Paramatta, calling at the “Vineyard,” the residence of Hannibal M’Arthur, Esq. The habitation was delightfully situated on the banks of the Paramatta creek, or river. His gardens, annexed to the house, were extensive, and richly stored with many valuable shrubs and plants, and a brilliant display of hyacinths, anemones, jonquils, and other annuals, usually the ornament of our gardens, brought forcibly to our minds the recollection of our spring and summer seasons at home. Salt provision becoming an article of colonial export, Major Lockyer, Mr. H. M’Arthur, and many other gentlemen, settled in, and possessing large estates in the colony, are profitably employed in salting provision, both for the commissariat department of the colony, as well as for exportation. The Liverpool is preferred by some to the salt of colonial manufacture, from its being of a stronger quality.

The woods in the vicinity of the “Vineyard” abounded with numerous plants of the Orchideæ family, growing in a very barren soil. One of these, that has received the colonial appellation of “native hyacinth,” was just developing its beautiful cærulean blossoms, and another its flowers of a bright yellow, spotted internally with brown. These latter Orchideæ are named “boyams,”[36] having their bulbous roots filled with a viscid mucilage, which renders them an article of food among the aborigines: they are also sought after by the colonial children, who are fond of collecting and eating them; the little creatures would readily recognize their favourite “boyams” among the specimens I had collected. The Emu flowers, (Richea glauca,) were now abundant, and in full blossom; the colonial appellation has been given from the emus feeding upon them, that is, when emus were to be seen, for they have been driven by encroaching settlements far into the interior of the colony, and before long an emu will be as great, if not a greater rarity, at Sydney than in England, for in the latter country I am happy to see they are endeavouring to, and I hope will, succeed in breeding them.

The acacias (of the species floribunda and fillifannilius) were abundant, and covered at this season with a profusion of delicate golden flowers, imparting to the otherwise sterile aspect of the woods, a gay and animated appearance, as well as diffusing a grateful fragrance around, wafted by the gentle breezes to a still greater distance; their drooping branches, thickly studded with pending clusters of blossoms, decorated the sides of the roads, gardens, barren plains, and banks of rivers, being the only trees that at one period of the season bestowed some life to the usual uninteresting character of the scenery, at some parts aided by other flowering shrubs in full blossom, among which those of the Epacridæ family were most profuse.

Paramatta is a pretty village situated in a vale, and has some well-constructed public buildings—as the government-house, orphan-school, commissariat stores, female factory, &c. The situation of the village renders it exceedingly sultry during the summer months. The government-house is well-situated, and the building is of neat construction; the grounds about it are well laid out, and it has become the favourite residence of the present governor; and when compared to the government-house at Sydney, well merits his choice.

Swallows were numerous at this season of the year, and were now busily engaged in constructing their nests under the eves of houses; the nests differ from those of the European species, in having a bottle-shaped neck.

I had no opportunity of ascertaining whether the species were the same; but from casual observation I should think they were different. When these little birds are not in the vicinity of the dwellings of man, they construct their nests in the hollow trunks of trees, or under overhanging rocks, but always seem to prefer the society or protection of the human race: many are seen busily engaged in the construction of a nest, forming a “co-operative society;” when the nests are constructed in a situation about the dwelling, where, being built of mud, the appearance is unsightly, they are frequently knocked down; but this will not deter the industrious little creatures from re-building in the same situations, until, being repeatedly destroyed, they are obliged to seek for another place of refuge.

CHAPTER IV.

Road from Paramatta to Liverpool—Dismal appearance of the uncleared land—Liverpool—Arrival at Raby Farm—The opossum—Prisoners and free men—Advantage of being sentenced to an iron gang—London pickpockets converted into shepherds—Suggestion with regard to the convicts—Leave Raby—Mr. Jones’s farm—Cultivation of the vine—Sameness of the forest scenery in Australia—Lose our way—Journey resumed—Gloomy appearance of the Australian vegetation—The tea tree—Colonial farms—Emu-ford—Blue Mountain range—The Pilgrim Inn—View from Lapstone Hill—Variety of flowering shrubs—A beautiful garden—Road over the Blue Mountains—Picturesque prospects—A mountain station—Bleak air of the place—Our supper.

On the 13th of September, I proceeded from Paramatta to Raby farm, near the cow pastures, (distant twenty-one miles from Paramatta,) at that time the residence of my friend Mr. Dutton. The road from Paramatta to Liverpool was in excellent condition, but the land on each side was for the most part uncleared; and, being covered by dense forest trees, had a very sombre character. A few trees of the “green wattle,” (acacia decurrens,) profusely covered by golden blossoms, and occasionally a cleared verdant space, alone gave anything like animation to the scenery.

The uncleared land has a dismal appearance; the huge blue gum, stringy bark, box, and iron bark trees, (all of the Eucalyptus genus,) rose from the thick bush which surrounded their bases, to a great elevation. On arriving at the small village of “Liverpool,” after a ride of nine miles, but little cultivation appeared; the forest-trees and brush still kept their place, except that a few “runs” were becoming cleared. “Liverpool” is only a scattered village, containing some neat houses; the colonial hospital is a very splendid building; and the church, which has a tower and clock, is a small but neat brick building.

After passing this neat little village, several farms, with cleared and cultivated land about them, were seen, affording some relief to the dismal character of the Australian jungle. The “green wattle” trees, loaded with blossoms, were abundant, attracting numbers of beautiful insects. This species of acacia is valued as well for its beauty as for the utility of the bark in tanning. It is of rapid growth, but seldom survives more than four or five years.

I arrived at Raby at noon. This farm is the property of W. Riley, Esq.; it is a large and very valuable estate, principally used as a sheep-run; and there are several fine breeds of these very valuable animals. The estate also possesses several acres of arable land, and much more capable of cultivation for grain, &c. but not yet used for that purpose.

Here I had an opportunity of seeing the common opossum of this country, (phalangista vulpina,) one a young female, and the other an old male specimen,[37] (the “young feller” and “old feller” of the blacks.) When the aborigines observe marks of the animal’s claws upon the bark of a tree, they ascend and search in the hollows of the trunk, drag the creature from its place of concealment, (where it remains during the day, feeding at night,) and killing it, convert its carcase into a meal to satisfy their appetites; indeed, even when the blacks have been well fed by the settlers, they seldom refrain from ascending after an opossum, if they observe recent tracks of one on the trunk of a tree, which their keen vision soon enables them to do. The stomachs of these animals were distended with clover, grass, and the young leaves of the eucalypti trees. The odour which emanated from their bodies during dissection was of that camphorated kind which might be expected to proceed from their feeding on the foliage of those trees which are well known to possess that peculiar smell. The fur of the opossum is used at Sydney by the hat-manufacturers, and may be likewise valuable for other purposes; the natives spin it, in their rude manner, into small cord, from which they manufacture their bags called netbuls.[38]

The opinion which appears generally to prevail, that prisoners of the crown are placed in the colony in a better situation than free men, there is too much reason for regarding as correct. They are well-fed and clothed, take good care to be never overworked, and have an hospital, with the best attendance, when sick. An assigned servant or convict may be correctly defined as an individual who is well fed and clothed—insolent and indolent—and takes care that the little work he has to perform is badly done. When sick, which often proceeds from lying idle too long in the sun, he walks to the hospital; and, from the exertion, together with the thoughts of “bleeding, blistering, and physic,” he soon recovers, and returns to his master, to again undergo the fatigue of doing little or nothing. One of these characters applied for his ticket of leave, but soon returned, wishing again to be employed by his former master, if only for his food; at the same time observing, that he was better off before, in bondage, than he was now, partially free—so his fellow servants persuaded him to send the ticket back, and say, “it was all a mistake.”

The following anecdote may serve to illustrate the misery an iron gang occasions to spirit drinkers. A convict was once weighed by his comrades, and the weight at that time marked with chalk upon the barn door. A short time after this took place, he was sentenced for an offence to an iron gang for six weeks. After the term of his punishment had expired, and he returned to his master, he was observed to be in a stouter and more robust condition than before; his comrades again weighed him, to see what he had gained in flesh, if not in any moral benefit, by his punishment; when it was ascertained he had gained twenty pounds. As this man had, when on the farm, been continually toping, and as, when with the iron gang, he had no opportunity of continuing his potations, that circumstance may have occasioned his increased good health and condition. This may be a hint, therefore, to send all the sick whose illness may arise principally from habitual drunkenness, instead of an hospital, to an iron gang for a short period.

The London pickpockets are considered to make the best shepherds in the colony, as it suits their naturally idle habits; the industrious labourer cannot endure the very wearisome and lazy employment of looking after sheep; the petty larcener soon gets attached to his woolly charges, and the sheep, no doubt, by a natural instinct, to him; and thus the animals are tended with some degree of care; but the regular workman, detesting the occupation, (unless incapacitated from a more active employment, by age or accident,) seldom takes any interest in the valuable property entrusted to his care; the former are, therefore, to be preferred. The shepherds, when tending their flocks in the pasturage, wile away their leisure time by manufacturing coarse but durable straw hats.

There is, no doubt, much truth in the remark I have heard in the colony, that some of the lower orders contrive to get government servants assigned to them, ostensibly for the purpose of cultivating the soil, but in reality to assist in plundering. This may also be inferred from the very limited means they can otherwise have for procuring a livelihood. As a veil to such practices, and to lull any suspicion that might be created, they dig, and plant a few potatoes and other vegetables, in a small spot of ground, laid out near their bark residence, as a garden; and the crown prisoners are procured ostensibly to assist in cultivating this “bit of earth;” and thus the vegetable garden affords a cloak to many crimes.

Convicts ought (if by transportation any punishment is intended) to be sent, according to the nature of their crimes, to the whole of our colonies, whether in the East and West Indies, coast of Africa, &c. &c. solely for the purpose of being employed upon the public works, and free emigration to be encouraged to Australia, Cape, &c. on a very extended scale. The influence of the emancipist class of the New South Wales population is great, and they are also possessed of great wealth. As wealth is one degree of power, they must be regarded both as an influential and powerful body. There is also that system adopted, which is much to be regretted. I allude to no distinction being made between those banished for trivial offences, and those who have committed deeper crimes. Many atrocious characters are assigned to persons of the highest respectability, well clothed and fed; and from them often have I witnessed most unbounded insolence: so that a stranger would imagine the master to be under obligations to the servant, and would be astonished when told that the servant was a convicted felon.

On the 17th of September, I left Raby, in company with Mr. Henry O’Brien, for the Yas country, intending to visit several parts of the Bathurst district by the way. Our mode of travelling was on horseback. We passed “Fleurs,” (formerly Baily Park,) the property of R. Jones, Esq.: it is a neat farm, with extensive sheep runs; and several suitable spots of land were in progress of being laid out as vineyards. The vine having now become an object of cultivation over most parts of the colony, and the prolific bearing of fruit[39] in a very short period of time after the cuttings have been planted evidently proves that the Australian soil is extremely suitable for its cultivation.

From the sameness of the forest scenery in this colony it is difficult even for one endowed with a large development of locality in his cranium to regain the right path, on making a deviation, in however slight a degree, from it. As we, for a short time, were in this predicament, it afforded a practical instance of what I had only heard before, as sometimes occurring: we, consequently, did not arrive at “Erskine Park” the residence of Mr. Campbell, until two P.M., who received us in the kindest manner: this was an agreeable farm, and the view from the mount near the house was extensive and beautiful.

After a short rest and refreshment, we resumed our journey, passed a neat farm, belonging to the Reverend Mr. Marsden, and, coming upon the western road, crossed it, and, taking a bush path for a distance of probably four or five miles, passed the cottage and extensive farm belonging to Captain P. P. King, R. N., and, two or three miles further, arrived at a gate, which had near it a board requesting persons passing to “shut the gate, and oblige John Harris.” This, after having attained with our horses the other side of the gate, we acceded to, and, passing “Shute Park,” the property of Dr. Harris, we arrived, late in the evening, at Clydesdale, the farm of Mr. Tompson, where we remained for the night, heartily tired, after a sultry ride across the country of thirty-five miles.

The great deficiency of animation in the Australian vegetation, except when in flower, casts a gloom over, rather than exhilarates the mind of the traveller, producing none of those mental delights which the liveliness of the vegetable kingdom, combined with picturesque scenery, excites in other countries. As the traveller journeys through the Australian forests, there is a sameness, which creates a degree of melancholy feeling, excepting when the Angophora lanceolata, or apple-tree[40] of the colonists is seen, when its more verdant foliage and elegant growth imparts some degree of animation and beauty, particularly when contrasted with the other forest trees about it. When we came upon a cultivated spot, where the young wheat was springing up, together with the lucerne fields, it formed a smiling feature in the landscape, and a most agreeable relief from the sameness of the bush of New South Wales.

The Melaleuca, or tea-tree, was very abundant in some parts of the forests, attaining the elevation of thirty-five to forty feet, and a diameter of nearly two feet: the bark is nearly as smooth as velvet, and, like most of the Australian trees, is deciduous: the wood is stated to be very durable, and, the leaves being formerly used as a substitute for tea, it still retains the name of “Tea-tree” among the colonists. There is sometimes much difficulty experienced, when travelling through the wild Australian country, in finding the habitation to which the traveller may be proceeding; for, until he may be close upon it, or a patch of cultivation peeping through a small opening in the dense forest directs him to the farm, as the cultivated land is usually near the house, or, at all events, no great distance from it, he may wander very far from his destined resting place even after having been close to it without its being visible. The remainder of the estate is used as “runs” for sheep or cattle; but in this country (Cumberland) there are but few sheep-runs, as the proprietors of the estates have, for the most part, “runs” from seventy to two hundred miles inland, where the sheep have better pasturage, and there is more facility for washing the fleeces, during the shearing season. About Clydesdale farm, as well as other estates in the vicinity of this part of the country called the “South Creek,” there are patches of a fine red clay soil, which has been found very productive when laid out as vineyards.

On the following morning we left Clydesdale, retraced our path, came upon the western road, and, continuing our journey, passed Penrith, and arrived at Emu Ford, close to which a very handsome and well-furnished inn has recently been erected. Having crossed the Ford (a part of the Nepean river) in a punt, we were on the Emu plains. The appearance of these fertile plains, situated at the base of the commencement of the Blue Mountain range, was very beautiful. The weather had been stormy and showery, but, at this time, the squall having passed away, the sun shone with brightness upon the green fields on and about the Nepean river; and the neat houses, scattered profusely about this charming spot, produced a very pleasing landscape.

At this part of our journey, we were joined by Mr. Edward Cox, of Mulgoa, who, travelling partly in the same direction as ourselves, had agreed to accompany us. We ascended “Lapstone Hill,” where the road commenced over the extensive Blue Mountain range, and soon after arrived, in a heavy rain squall, at the Pilgrim Inn, where we enjoyed, from the bleakness of the weather, a blazing wood fire and an excellent dinner. The view from Lapstone Hill, on gaining its summit, was very splendid: a large extent of country appeared from this elevated site: the Nepean river was seen winding its course through lands rich for pasturage, as well as in the cultivation of grain. During the harvest season, the prospect must be much increased both in richness and beauty. The situation of Windsor was pointed out; but a haze being over the distant village, the houses were not distinguishable. Regent Ville, the beautiful residence and farm of Sir John Jamieson, was included in the view.

About this place there was a great variety of flowering shrubs, among which the Dianella cærulea, and a variety or species with white flowers, were abundant; but the season (particularly on this bleak range) was not yet sufficiently advanced for Flora to distribute all her beauties, without the bright sun to enliven them. The rapidly advancing summer will, however, soon strew the earth with a thicker carpeting of floral beauties, which the earlier spring about Sydney had already brought forth in such an infinite profusion. It is difficult to eradicate from our minds early impressions; thus we find those who have been accustomed to regard plants from foreign climes, nursed in the conservatories at home, with a certain degree of veneration, even here still retain their former feelings towards them; until by a residence in a country where they constantly meet the eye, and from their profusion, become annoying weeds, early impressions pass away, and they are regarded as valueless because common. Thus we may say it is with mankind, both in a civilized and savage state of society; most things are estimated for their rarity.

I recollect, when at the Cape, riding to Constantia; on the road, flowers gay and magnificent in colour, were passed, and I thought there would be no termination either to their number or variety. On arriving at that little paradise of nectar, an invitation was given me to view the garden. I accepted it with pleasure, thinking that many rare specimens of the Cape Flora would now be laid before me; but such an expectation, was not, however, to be realized. The beautiful and fragrant rose, the simple pink, or the brilliantly coloured carnation, the sweet scented scabious, the mignonette, and the Digitalis purpurea, or Foxglove, (which latter having flowered for the first time in that country was held in very high estimation,) as well as many of the hybrid productions so abundant in Europe, were alone prized here; the others, so much admired by the stranger, were regarded only as weeds. All this, however, thought I, on reflection, is perfectly natural; here, our plants are rare, and theirs, worthless to them, are new to us, and, consequently, nursed with care in the green-houses at home. But a lady just arrived from England at the Cape, could hardly be persuaded that she might gather the flowers seen growing in such profusion and beauty around, and which she was accustomed to regard as exotics at home.

The inns in the Australian colony are neat and elegant, well supplied, and charges very moderate. We left the “Pilgrim Inn” about three o’clock, P.M., and proceeded on our journey through an excellent road over the Blue Mountains, which is formed upon a dividing ridge of this mountainous range; on each side thick forests, deep romantic glens, occasionally enlivened by beautiful flowering shrubs, formed the landscape scenery around us. After passing a great number of “forest oaks,” (Casuarina torulosa,) whose dark green filiform foliage had a peculiar appearance, and “turpentine trees,”[41] (Tristania albicans,) which lined the sides of the road, and extended into the interior of the forest, intermingled with other trees and shrubs, we reached “Springwood,” at which place a corporal’s guard was stationed, principally for the purpose of escorting prisoners attached to the iron gangs from one station to another.

As we made the gradual ascent of this mountainous but excellent road, the scenery began to develope itself, until the prospect before us had assumed a romantic and in a high degree picturesque appearance: there was a distant view of the Appin, Windsor, and other districts, like a sea of country in the distance; near us were wild deep-wooded glens, to the bottom of which the eye could not reach. On another side were mountains heaped on mountains of various forms, and for the most part densely wooded, all combining to form a landscape of a grand and impressive character. There was, however, a deficiency of water in the view, an element which adds so much to the natural beauties of all landscape scenery; by its presence the picturesque as well as fertile appearance of the country would have been much increased. The atmosphere upon this elevated range was colder and bleaker than we had experienced on the low land; it seemed as if we had been removed to another climate, and the wind, which blew fresh, was so piercingly cold, as the sunset approached, as to render our warm cloaks of much service.

As we advanced on our journey, by the continued gradual ascent, the cold increased; even the shrubs had a stunted and miserable appearance, which gave a desolate aspect to the country about us, indicating a great difference of climate in this spot in comparison with the lower part of the range from whence we had departed only a few hours before. The sunset brought a still keener air, and with joy we hailed the bridge and habitations of a station called the “Weather-boarded Hut,” our place of rest for the night, and a termination to our journey of thirty-six miles this day. On hearing the tramping of our horses, the door of a neat little inn (which now supplied the place of a rude bark hut) was opened for the travellers, and a blazing fire cheered us by its appearance in this desolate-looking spot.

It was not long before we were happy to find ourselves seated in the warm room, and busy preparations making for our supper, for which we were prepared, as we found that “the keen air is a marvellous provoker of appetites;” and as, when seated snugly within this dwelling, we heard the cold wintry blast, which in this elevated region is felt through the greater part of the year, passing in gusts, we congratulated ourselves on the contrast we experienced in our present comfortable situation. The “Weather-boarded hut” is a military station for a serjeant’s guard, placed to escort prisoners of road and iron gangs, as they are removed from one station to another. It was formerly very unhealthy for the troops, occasioned by the bad construction of their habitations, and the bleakness of situation; but since more commodious dwellings have been erected, fully capable of resisting the severity of the weather, it has become more healthy.

We enjoyed a plentiful supper of tea, toast, bacon, eggs, &c., but there was no milk; the excellent reason given for its absence being the death of the cow a few days previous, not that I was surprised at the animal’s death, but only how any living creature could subsist even for a few days in such a place. When we asked our attendant why he did not get another cow, he replied, “Because it would not survive long!” No wonder, thought I; for where in this desolate place could sufficient provender be found for the unfortunate beast to sustain life?

After seeing our horses fed, and placed in a warm and comfortable stable, with a good bed for the night, (for in the stables at the colonial inns, horses require as much to be looked after when travelling as at home, for ostlers are in this country much of the same species, or perhaps a worse genus, having similar peculating habits,) we retired to our beds, and slept soundly, in spite of the strong gusts of wind which swept furiously by our little dwelling.

CHAPTER V.

Our journey resumed—The new road—Road-side flowers—Blackheath—The pass through Mount Vittoria—Talent and perseverance of Major Mitchell, the surveyor-general—Appearance of an iron gang—Leave the Blue Mountain range—Arrive at Collet’s Inn—Resume our journey towards Dabee—New line of road—Aspect of the country—Arrival at Mr. Walker’s farm—Residence of Mr. Dalhunty—Huge mounds of clay—Blackman’s Crown—Gum-trees—Bush travelling—Encamp for the night—Caution to travellers—Cherry-tree Hill—A deserted station—Encampment of Aborigines—The musk duck—Produce of Mr. Cox’s dairy-farm—Mount Brace—Infanticide—Custom of native women, relative to their dead offspring—Native practice of midwifery—Animal called the Cola—Belief in the doctrine of metempsychosis.

On the following morning, about seven A.M., after a good night’s repose and an excellent breakfast, we resumed our journey; the air was keen, but not so piercing as on the previous evening, and the sun shone brilliantly. The road we had passed, and the one we were still upon, are excellent; the new road is a great improvement. From what I had an opportunity of occasionally seeing of the old one it must have been wretched, and the great surprise was how vehicles could have passed it in safety; some parts, however, of a better character, were incorporated with the new road.

As we proceeded flowers again began to deck the road-sides, and the “Warratah or Tulip-tree” (Telopea speciocissima) now made its appearance in great abundance: the buds with which it was covered were not yet, however, sufficiently expanded to display the splendid crimson hue of the blossoms, which make it, perhaps, one of the most elegant and splendid flowering shrubs indigenous to the colony. The Acacia taxifolia was abundantly in flower, and diffused a delightful fragrance. The scenery, as we proceeded, increased rather than diminished in its grand and romantic character. At one place we passed a large quantity of a species of Eucalyptus, called the “mountain ash” by the colonists, and saw-pits had been erected near the spot for the purpose of cutting it into planks, it being much valued for shafts of gigs, as well as for other purposes, in which the wood can be better applied than any other kinds of the colonial timber.

We passed an inn, erected on a spot not unappropriately called “Blackheath,” and it was truly a dismal, bleak-looking place. After riding a distance of fourteen or fifteen miles, we turned off to the new road, nearly completed, but not yet thrown open to the public, passing through Mount Vittoria, so as to avoid the steep and stupendous pass of “Mount York.”[42] It would be well worth the trouble of the traveller to view both passes, by which he will be enabled to judge of the value that must be attached to an undertaking that ought to confer immortality on its projector and engineer, Major Mitchell, the surveyor-general of the colony. He will then appreciate the immense labour that must have attended the formation of a road through “Mount Vittoria,” which was always considered impracticable until the present highly-talented surveyor-general, surmounting all the difficulties, against both public and private opposition, showed what talent and perseverance can attain, and how superior minds can overcome the prejudices of ignorant or self-interested individuals. He has thus given to the colony a road, which, considering its peculiar situation, is not at present, nor perhaps ever will be, equalled.

Although not entirely completed, we were enabled to pass over it on horseback; (by leading our horses over one small unfinished portion of it;) the descent is gradual, and the solid rock of “Mount Vittoria” had been cut through in the formation of the road, a most laborious undertaking, as a great portion of it consisted of a kind of freestone. A large iron gang was still employed upon it, in order, as soon as possible, to throw it open to the public, as forming a portion of the splendid new line of road over the Blue Mountain range to Bathurst.

The iron gang employed upon this pass was just leaving for dinner when we passed, so we availed ourselves of the opportunity to visit the barracks, to see them mustered, and the messes served out. The clothes of these men were in bad condition, from the quarry work, in which most of them were employed; but as far as their personal state was concerned, they appeared plump and thriving. The barrack was a temporary stockade, in which the bark huts were situated, and around these a barricade was erected, outside which sentinels were stationed. It was miserable to see these men in so degraded a state, who, banished for crimes from their native land, subject themselves to a second punishment, when, by good conduct, they could become, not only useful members of society, but attain independent and comfortable circumstances for life.

Having left the Blue Mountain range by this splendid pass, the features of the country were not found to be materially changed, excepting the occasional appearance of granitic masses, and several trees and plants not seen on the Sydney side of the range. One species of Banksia was very abundant, its foliage resembling that of the rosemary, (B. rosmarinifolia?) and the subgenus of the Eucalyptus with white and opposite leaves, which contain a large quantity of camphorated oil, was now abundantly seen, as well as Lobelia, Gnapthalium, and other flowering plants. At noon we arrived at Collet’s inn, were we refreshed ourselves and horses, after a long ride of twenty-two miles from the “Weather-boarded Hut.”

About two P.M. we proceeded on our journey to visit “Dabee,” an estate, the property of our travelling companion, Mr. Edward Cox. The road we had to pass was not of the most agreeable description “either for man or horse,” having a descent into deep vallies, and a corresponding ascent up steep acclivities; but, fortunately for travellers, Major Mitchell is again at work with his gangs, and a road, in spite of all obstacles, is rapidly progressing; avoiding all the rough places we had now to pass, and also affording a more direct as well as pleasing route. To myself and fellow-traveller, the observation of, “We shall soon pass over some of Major Mitchell’s line of road,” was a certainty, as far as it might be completed, that it would be good, and the result always verified the correctness of the opinion we formed on this subject.

The country around us abounded in granitic masses, but its features were not interesting, having the usual dismal character of the Australian bush. We passed several rivulets, (or creeks, as they are called by the colonists,) and the little streams, similar to those seen meandering through our fields at home, are in this country dignified with other larger streams by the appellation of rivers. Of the feathered creation, loris, parrots, and white cockatoos, as also the small green parrots with red heads (Psittacus pusillus, Lath?) were seen in great numbers, and flew away screaming on our approach. At six P.M. we arrived at “Wallerowang,” the farm of James Walker, Esq., (after a journey of sixteen miles,) and were kindly received by the persons in charge during the absence of Mr. Brown, the overseer, and took up our abode in the little cottage for the night. This estate appears, as far as I could judge from a casual view, to have few attractions from its locality, or value from capability of cultivation. The sheep are kept at a station called “Looe,” which is nearly fifty miles further distant.

After an early breakfast on the next morning (September 20th) we resumed our journey. The atmosphere was cold, and the season was considered by the settlers more backward than usual this year. After riding six or seven miles we reached “Cullen Bullen,” the farm and residence of Robert Dalhunty, Esq. The situation is picturesque, but the land was stated not to be of an excellent description. The cottage (to which a neat garden was attached) displayed both in its exterior, as well as its interior adornments, a degree of taste and neatness, which was sufficient to acquaint the visitor that the more gentle and amiable sex had secluded themselves in this place. After an agreeable but short stay, we continued our journey through a very uninteresting country. During the journey I observed the “black wattle-tree” (Acacia melanoxylon) growing abundantly, sometimes on the declivities of the hills, and also in swampy situations. Several species of Acacias were in flower, some merely small shrubs, while others had attained the size of large trees; but the whole being in full bloom, bestowed a pleasing appearance upon the otherwise dull scenery. These were as yet the only trees which we had seen in full blossom, and indeed every twig was so thickly studded with fragrant flowers of golden hue, as almost to conceal the foliage, proving sources of attraction to a multitude of insects which revelled in the sweets they contained.

Occasionally, among the trees or bushes, a huge mound of clay, conical in form, would attract the traveller’s attention; these were produced by the labours of a species of Termite, indigenous to the colony. I have seen the mounds from four to five feet in elevation, and two or three feet in diameter, firmly constructed of red or white clay; they furnish persons, about to erect a mud-hut, with an excellent material, ready prepared for use; and then many of them, together with myriads of their inhabitants, are destroyed for the purpose.

About nine miles further, we arrived at a steep hill, up which we were obliged to lead our horses, and there was a corresponding steep descent on the opposite side of the ridge; near it was a lofty hill, surmounted by a bare mass of sandstone, and called “Blackman’s Crown,” by which name the ridge and pass is also known. After passing the ridge and descent, the road continues tolerably good, having about it thickly wooded and brush country, among which white, spotted gums, and box, together with other varieties, or species of Eucalypti abounded, with dwarf and other Acacias, in full bloom, emu flowers, (Richea glauca,) butter-cups, and asters, and among them several purple and yellow flowering plants of the Orchideæ family occasionally mingled. The “spotted gum” is usually found in situations, which, although in dry weather appearing firm, in wet are boggy; this tree consequently indicates by its presence the quality of the soil. The “white gum” trees have a smooth whitish bark, giving them an appearance as if white-washed.

After travelling some distance, we ‘hobelled’ our horses, turned them out in some fine pasturage, and set to work, after the bush fashion, to prepare tea, as a refreshment; there being no station between “Cullen Bullen” and “Dabee:” our pocket-knives cut up the eatables we had with us, sharpened sticks served as a substitute for forks, and flat pieces of wood made excellent spoons. Thus we enjoyed our rustic meal; and it would be well for fastidious people, who, having every luxury at their command, are contented with nothing, to become bush travellers in Australia for a short period, in pursuit of health and contentment, and there can be no doubt but they would return better in both respects. Tea, sugar, a tin-pot, and a blanket, are the requisites for a bush traveller, other necessaries being left to Providence, or to be supplied at the stations he may occasionally meet with.

Ourselves and horses having had an agreeable feed, we travelled on until about six P.M., when we “brought up” at the “Round Swamp,” and encamped on a hill for the night: the horses were hobbelled and turned out to graze, while we occupied ourselves in collecting fuel, of which a sufficient supply was soon procured from the quantity of dried wood that was strewed about. Having lighted our fire, chopped down several small trees, forming with their branches a rude hut, as a temporary shelter, and fern and small shrubs made a rough but not uncomfortable bed. The only drawback to the comfort of sleeping in the bush is the fall of heavy rain; we had a little during the night, but, fortunately, it ceased before sufficient had fallen to penetrate our leafy hut.

In choosing night encampments, it would be well for travellers, if they have any regard for their personal comfort, to be particularly cautious to avoid making their dormitory upon the nest of the red ant, which cannot endure intrusion, and consequently will give them so inhospitable a reception, as to oblige a speedy decampment to take place, leaving painful mementos of their formidable forceps. This happened not to be our lot, and we enjoyed sound repose (after our journey of thirty-three miles) until towards the morning, when the chilness of the air awoke us: the fire not having been kept replenished was nearly extinguished, we, however, soon made it blaze again by an addition of fuel, and as the dawn of day was fast approaching, we prepared tea,—that beverage being always found most refreshing after a fatiguing day’s journey, or before commencing one,—previous to resuming our journey.

As day dawned we proceeded on our journey, and arrived at a place called “Cherry-tree Hill;” on one side of it there is a steep, almost perpendicular descent, which drays passing this road were formerly obliged to descend at great risk; but it is now avoided by a lately discovered route, nearly three miles further round. The view, looking from this hill into the luxuriant little valley beneath, was very beautiful. Having led our horses down, we passed through an open forest country, which presented a more agreeable prospect than any I had yet seen. About this part of the country I remarked the Indigo shrub (Indigofera Australis) abundant, and I was told that indigo of good quality has been prepared from it at Bathurst. The species of Eucalyptus, called “manna-tree” by the colonists, (E. mannifera,) was now occasionally seen, but the season was not yet sufficiently advanced for its secretion, which is usually about the months of December and January. The Currijong-tree (Hibiscus heterophyllus?) was also occasionally seen growing in a granite soil, and more often in elevated than other situations: it has a lively appearance, more especially contrasted with the other trees around it; the bark is rough, greyish, thick, and spongy, and the wood is used by the aborigines for boats or canoes. There are two species indigenous to the colony; from the bark of one, if not of both, the natives manufacture durable rope for nets, &c., as the Polynesian islanders use the bark of another species of Hibiscus (H. Tiliaceus) for a similar purpose.

By nine A.M. we passed a deserted station, formerly called, and still known as “Vincent’s Station;” and by one P.M. arrived at “Dabee,” which is pleasantly situated near the Cudgegong river, which, I believe, empties itself into the Macquarie. The situation of this farm is picturesque, being nearly surrounded by high-wooded and broken ranges of mountains. On approaching the house, several of the aborigines were seen encamped; we rode up to them, and found an assemblage of several, of different ages and sexes: the males were armed with spears, clubs, and the “womera,” or “bomerang;” this last is a peculiar weapon thrown by the hand, and possesses the apparent anomalous property of striking an object in the opposite direction from that in which it is at first propelled.

In the “United Service Journal,” for June 1833, Mr. Wilkinson gives the following explanation of this curious weapon:

“The Bommarang may be formed of any tough, heavy wood, and is about three-eighths of an inch thick in the middle, gradually tapering off towards the extremities, and rounded on each side from the centre until brought to an edge.

“Construction.—Let A B E be the arc of a circle: the chord A D E = 18 inches: the perpendicular B D = 7 inches: the width B C = 3 inches. Thus constructed, the centre of gravity will fall exactly on the edge of its concave surface at C. When used as an offensive weapon, it is usually thrown with the convex side outwards; but when intended to return, it is held in the reverse position; although it will probably act in either direction, if properly managed.

“For the latter purpose, however, it should be thrown from the hand at a considerable elevation (45°) with a sudden jerk, so as to combine with the projectile force a rapid rotation round its centre of gravity. The rotation acts constantly in opposition to its line of flight; so that if a similar rotation could be communicated without any projectile force, the instrument would move backwards: now, as the force with which it is thrown is constantly diminishing while the rotation continues, it must always arrive at a certain point where these opposite forces balance, or equalize each other. At that moment the weapon would fall towards the ground, were it not for its flat surface and rotatory motion; but in consequence of the centre of gravity being so placed that it will always present its broad surface to the air, it cannot descend perpendicularly, but slides down the inclined plane, up which it has been thrown, in consequence of the whirling motion continuing after the projectile force has ceased; so that if properly thrown, it will pass over the head of the thrower, and often to a considerable distance behind him. On the same principle, a hoop thrown from the hand with a spinning-motion inwards, will begin to return before it touches the ground; and also the curious, though not so familiar instance, of a ball fired from a musket, the barrel of which has been bent to the left, being carried at long distances considerably to the right of the object aimed at, in consequence of the rotation of the ball on its axis, caused by the friction against the right side of the barrel overcoming the projectile force, and thus carrying it across the line of aim.

“The bommarang may be illustrated in a room, by merely cutting a piece of card into the same shape as the diagram; then holding it between the finger and thumb of the left-hand, at an inclination of about 45°, and striking one corner with a piece of wood, it will advance several feet and return to the spot from whence it proceeded. I find, however, that this form is not essential to produce a similar effect, although the most convenient to throw from the hand. Any thin, flat body of a semicircular or rectilinear figure, will return in the same manner, if a rotative motion be communicated to it, in conjunction with the projectile force at a considerable angle of elevation.”

Among this tribe was an old woman in mourning, which was indicated by her face and breast being painted in white stripes with pipe-clay. The people composing the tribe were well-formed, muscular, extremities well-proportioned, but of slender form: the average height five feet five or six inches; cheekbones prominent; nose broad and flattened, with expansive nostrils; mouth large; beard copious, and hair long, black, and coarse; they seem as intelligent, but not so fine a race as the Polynesians, excepting those of the Papuan or Oceanic race, to which they are evidently closely allied. Some physical differences, however, ought to be expected in a people inhabiting so sterile a country, compared with those races inhabiting islands, perhaps as fertile as any in the world. The males of this tribe (similar to other parts of the colony) knock out the front incisor tooth on arriving at the age of puberty, and being admitted into the council and society of men.

I had an opportunity of examining a male stuffed specimen of the “musk duck,” which had lately been shot in the Cudgegong river. I felt desirous of procuring a recent specimen for dissection, to ascertain from what gland the musk was secreted, which diffuses so strong an odour over the body of this bird, and its situation, but did not succeed in securing one fit for the purpose; I felt more desirous of deciding the point, as those persons with whom I had conversed on the subject, and who had seen the bird in its recent state, were much divided in opinion, and gave very contradictory accounts. The bird is of an uniform dark speckled colour over the whole body, except upon the breast and abdomen, where it became lighter; the bill is black and short, in proportion to the size of the bird; the wings are short, and inadequate for the purpose of flight, but assist the animal as it runs over the water; the second penfeather of the wings is the longest; the tail is short, and consists of several very stiff feathers. It is a shy bird, diving the instant it is approached, and afterwards only elevates its head above water to watch proceedings, disappearing again on the least appearance of danger. It requires a good marksman, as well as much caution, to secure a shot even at the small mark the head of this bird presents. The female is said to be smaller than the male.

This estate is used by Mr. Cox principally as a dairy-farm, and a quantity of cheeses are made upon it, about which some of the men were at this time employed. They had now sufficient milk to make four cheeses, and expected soon to increase to ten, daily. Mr. Cox informed me he has made four tons of cheese on this farm in one season, and expected, during the succeeding one, to make nine or ten tons. The price of this article of course varies at Sydney; but it has been sold at forty-six pounds the ton. Attached to the neat little habitation at this farm is a garden, which contains strawberries and gooseberry bushes in a thriving condition, and was rendered gay by many of our European flowering plants in full bloom.

The day after our arrival, (22d,) I ranged about the farm, and was much pleased with its situation. To procure an extensive view, I ascended an elevated hill, distant about a mile from the house, and known by the name of “Mount Brace:” the view from it was extensive, and of much picturesque beauty.—Plains, (varied by wooded patches,) upon which herds of cattle grazed or reposed;—spots of cultivated land, green with the rising grain;—the distance terminating to the horizon in mountains of a greater or less degree of elevation and of varying forms,—peaked, rounded, or tabular, more or less densely wooded; and the Cudgegong river winding its course amidst the tranquil scene, produced, in the combination, a very pleasing landscape. The ascent to “Mount Brace” was rugged, and huge masses of sandstone, in which quartz pebbles were strongly imbedded, projected in several places as if about to be precipitated on the plains beneath; the Liptomera acida, Exocarpus cupressiforme, and the beautiful parasitical Loranthus pended from an Eucalyptus were seen; and other flowering shrubs, among which some small and delicate plants (bearing pink flowers) of the Orchideæ family were also profusely scattered about the declivities. I returned from my walk much gratified with the scenery.

It appears far from being an uncommon circumstance for the females of the aboriginal tribes about this and other districts in the colony, when they experience much lingering suffering in labour, to threaten the life of the poor infant previous to birth; and when it takes place, keep their word by destroying it. One instance was mentioned to me as occurring at a station at “Cuttabaloo,” (a hundred and twenty miles from Dabee,) and near the Castlereagh or Big River; (and I have since known several similar occurrences;) the woman had, in this case, been two days suffering from a severe and lingering labour, during which, she often threatened the poor unborn infant with death on its coming into the world, using the expression of “pi, a, cobera! (break its head!”[43]) and, on its birth, the unfortunate baby was absolutely killed by its unnatural parent.[44] This has occurred in a number of instances when the children were half-castes, and seems to be almost an invariable custom among the Australian aborigines,—as it is among the New Zealanders and natives of the Polynesian Archipelago, to destroy the infants produced by intercourse with Europeans, unless the father resides constantly with the female, or else may be near them at the time, to prevent the commission of so horrid and unnatural an act.

During a visit to the Murrumbidgee and Tumat countries, as well as other parts of the colony, I availed myself of every opportunity to procure information regarding acts of infanticide, as existing among the aborigines of this country. I succeeded in ascertaining that infants were frequently destroyed: sometimes the reason assigned was some personal defect in the infant,[45] (whence we may attribute the fact of a deformed person being seldom seen among native tribes,) or the mother not wishing to have the trouble of carrying it about: the female children were more frequently destroyed than the males. I heard of a weak and sickly child having been destroyed, and even eaten: the reason given by the unnatural parents was, that they were very hungry, and the child no use and much trouble; one redeeming quality, however, was, that they displayed a sense of shame when acknowledging the fact, and gave the reason for which they had committed so barbarous an act. It is seldom they will confess having destroyed their offspring: one, however, who had a child by an European, acknowledged it readily; and the reason given for the commission was its being like a warragul, or native dog. This was because the infant, like its papa, had a “carroty poll,” and thus resembled, in colour, the hair of the native dog, which is certainly not so handsome as the dark black locks of the aboriginal tribes.

Although addicted to infanticide, they display, in other instances, an extraordinary degree of affection for their dead offspring, evidenced by an act that almost exceeds credibility, had it not so often been witnessed among the tribes in the interior of the colony. I allude to the fact of deceased children, from the earliest age to even six or seven years, being placed in a bag, made of kangaroo skin, and slung upon the back of the mother, who, besides this additional burden, carries her usual netbul, or culy,[46] for provisions, &c. They carry them thus for ten or twelve months, sleeping upon the mass of mortal remains, which serves them for a pillow, apparently unmindful of the horrid fœtor which emanates from such a putrifying substance. Habit must reconcile them to it, for a woman carrying such a burden, may be “nosed” at a long distance before seen; and a stranger, unacquainted with this native custom, will see a woman with a large pack upon her back, from which such an odour proceeds, as to make him doubt from what it can be produced. When the body becomes dry, or only the bones left, the remains are burnt, buried, or placed into a hollow trunk or limb of a tree: in the latter instance covering the opening carefully with stones, &c. All the information that could be procured from them respecting this disgusting custom, was, “that they were afraid, if they buried them, the Buckee, or devil-devil would take them away.” When the adults among the aborigines die, the body is consigned to the hollow trunk of a tree, cave, or in the ground, according to circumstances, and wood, stones, &c. are piled on the entrance, or over the grave, so that, according to the ideas of these poor, superstitious savages, the Buckee may not be able to find them.

Even after the relation of this disgusting custom, these people are more degraded by writers than they really appear when seen in the interior, uncontaminated by European vices, in full native independence, hunters, but not tillers of the soil, from having no natural productions worthy of cultivation.[47]

The following is the practice of midwifery, as I observed it among the native tribes, more particularly those inhabiting the Yas, Murrumbidgee, and Tumat countries.

When a female is in labour she leaves the camp alone, and, should any assistance be required, she calls another female to her. When the child is born, the afterbirth, or placenta, is separated from the navel-string, or umbilical cord, by scraping or rudely cutting it with a shell, and the cord is left pending to some length from the abdomen of the infant. The parent then taking some water into her mouth, throws it over the child, rubbing the infant at the same time with coarse grass; and this, I suppose, they would call cleaning the little newborn creature. The first flow of milk is not given by the mother to the child, as they say it would produce griping. The afterbirth is buried by the mother, and soon taken up again and burnt; it is only buried, however, if they are not prepared to burn it immediately, but it is usually destroyed on the same day or night on which the woman has been delivered, although I could not ascertain correctly whether they entertain any such superstitious notions regarding the placenta, as obtains among the New Zealand females, yet by the care in burning it some such idea no doubt exists among them.[48] If the placenta is retained long after the birth of the infant, they endeavour to excite uterine contraction, by employing pressure on the lower part of the abdomen over the region of the womb. As soon as the child is born, the forehead of the infant is compressed, by laying the child upon its back and employing pressure with the foot; I could not find out for what object this was done, as the pressure was not repeated after the day following the birth of the infant.

The labours are sometimes tedious, and the suffering attending them severe; the presentations are generally natural; when preternatural labours occur, in most, if not in all such cases, they prove fatal for want of assistance.[49] After the delivery of the woman a belt of opossum skin, called “Cumeel” (similar to that worn by the males, when adults) is placed around the abdomen, and is removed after being kept on from twenty-four to forty-eight hours; the day after delivery the woman goes to the river for the purpose of ablution. Similar to most native tribes, the females are married at a very early age. I saw one in the Tumat country, whom I regarded as a mere child, and was surprised on being told that she had been married for eight months.

At “Dabee” I had an opportunity of viewing the native animal, called Koala or Cola,[50] and it immediately occurred to me (this being the first living specimen I had seen) how inaccurately the published representations of the animal were delineated, being probably, like most of the drawings of Australian animals, as well as many of other countries, taken from stuffed instead of recent specimens. The very peculiar droll-looking physiognomy of this little beast was entirely lost in the mis-representation. This animal, the Phascolartos genus of Blainville, was a young specimen, and covered over the body with a fine grey fur, having a reddish tinge, no tail, ears short and erect, and covered with thick long fur of a light greyish colour, eyes small, iredes brown, nose naked and pointed, upper lip divided, upper jaw projecting over the lower, hind feet like the opossum, the thumb wanting the nail. This animal laps when drinking, like a dog, and is very fond of milk; it uses the fore-feet in laying hold of the branches when eating the young leaves of the gum trees, (Eucalypti). This specimen was a male, and the noise it uttered was a peculiar soft barking sound. It sleeps during the day, running about to feed at night, but when roused will also feed during the day in its present state of confinement.

From many circumstances that have occurred, there is some reason to think that the aborigines of this country believe in the metempsychosis of the departure of the soul of their brethren into the bodies of certain animals; but as the notes I collected did not satisfy my mind, so as to assert this as a positive fact, I mention it, for others to procure information on the subject. That something like it exists, appears in some degree certain. In one instance, a native, at Béran plains, desired a European not to kill a Gúnar which he was then chasing, but to catch it alive as it was “him brother.” The animal, however, was killed, at which the native was much displeased, and would not eat any of it, but unceasingly complained of the “tumbling down him brother.”

CHAPTER VI.

Cross the country to Goulbourn Plains—A road-gang stockade—Splendid view—The old Bathurst road—Sidmouth valley—Brisbane valley—Squash field—Bolam Creek—Turril, turril—Gum resin—Swampy country—Mr. Cowper’s farm—Anecdotes—Distant view of Goulburn Plains—Mr. Bradley’s estate—Cross the plains—Hospitable reception at cardross—The Manna tree—Failure in rearing the tulip tree.

On the 24th of September, after an agreeable sojourn with Mr. E. Cox, and again accompanied by Mr. O’Brien, we resumed our journey; retracing our road to Wallerowang, and crossing the country to Goulburn Plains. We arrived at Wallerowang on the morning of the 28th, and, after a short stay, proceeded on our journey, taking a bush-road across the country; passed “Honeysuckle Swamp,” (so called from abounding in that species of Banksia, before mentioned as rosmarinifolia,) about which the old grass was on fire. The custom of setting the dry grass on fire is very prevalent throughout the colony, as the young grass shooting up soon after affords fine feeding for cattle, &c.

After riding about seven miles,[51] we arrived at a stockade, inhabited by a road-gang, employed upon the new Bathurst road, having a very distant view of the descent at Mount Vittoria, from which the road we were upon was a continuation, and a splendid view of mountain ranges and forest scenery was now before us. We only proceeded a few miles upon this excellent road, when we turned off into a dull bush-path through a portion of country which, from its want of animation, became tiresome to man and beast; there was nothing to excite the attention of either, and the horses always appear to participate, with ourselves, in the want of a lively character in the country.

Emerging from this wild bushy track, we came upon the old Bathurst road, and then the country assumed a better appearance, being thinly timbered, and herds of cattle gave some animation to the scene, increasing the beauty of the landscape. As we proceeded, the Fish River was occasionally seen winding its course among acacias, swamp oaks, and other trees, which grew upon its banks, and the sight of a river in this badly watered country, was always a pleasing relief. We crossed this river, and deviating from the main road arrived at “Sidmouth Valley,” the neat farm and residence of Mr. Lowe, by whom we were kindly received, and remained for the night, after a journey this day of twenty-two miles. A distant view of the Bathurst Plains was obtained from this farm.

We left “Sidmouth Valley” early on the following morning, through a good bush-road, and arrived at a portion of thinly-timbered country, having a character of park scenery, abounding in fine herbage. This brought us almost immediately upon a cattle station, the property of Capt. P. P. King, R.N. There was no one in the hut, so, after feeding our horses, we again proceeded; and, after a four miles ride, arrived at a cattle station, belonging to Mr. Scarvell, called “Brisbane Valley,” although from its quality and locality, “swamp” would have been a more correct nomenclature. From this station our road led by a bush-path between wooded hills, and through miserable swamps famed for the loss of an immense number of sheep, until we arrived at a place called “Squashfield,” and never was a more appropriate name bestowed upon a locality; for although the vegetation, springing up from the swamps, gave a fresh, fertile, and even beautiful appearance to the place, yet the moist, chilly, and raw atmosphere, could excite no other ideas than those connected with rheumatisms, catarrhs, and analogous diseases, to which cold and damp will subject the human frame. From the lateness of the hour we took up our night’s lodging in the hut at this station, where every thing was done to make us as comfortable as possible. Squashfield was, for the present, rented by Mr. Imlay, as a cattle station.

This place is an extensive range of swampy flats, of fertile appearance, which was the cause of its being first selected as a sheep station, and its bright features, when the young grass is springing up, charmed many into severe losses; for, not taking into calculation the quality of the soil, or the adaptation of the place for a sheep-run, numerous flocks were placed upon it, and the result was, before any long period had elapsed, the loss of the whole from rot; and yet, notwithstanding these facts more sheep were subsequently placed on the same spot, and, as might have been expected, with similar results, from the damp and swampy nature of the situation. Even now the stock-keepers stated that cattle could not remain about the place, but wander away to more congenial pasturage in other parts of the country.

We rose at day light to continue our journey; a hoar frost whitened the ground, and the atmosphere was exceedingly cold and damp: even our horses were impatient to leave this uncongenial spot, having been left by themselves during the night; for every animal, except those in confinement, which had been collected together with much trouble the previous day, were all reported absent without leave on the following morning.

After a short journey, through a similar swampy country, we arrived at a more elevated and agreeable spot, when we stopped to take refreshments, made a bush fire, prepared tea, turning out our horses to graze in a fine pasturage. Many of the Eucalypti trees[52] were throwing off their dark brown and rough outer bark, appearing in a new one, of a greyish colour. The appearance of the trees, partially denuded, with strips of brown crisped bark hanging about their trunks and branches ready to fall, being a general peculiarity of the trees of the country, excites the attention of the stranger. Our road led through a broken but picturesque country, thinly timbered, and appeared good pasture land. We crossed a small river, called the Bingham, the country improving very much as we proceeded, abounding in beautiful park scenery, and the distant hills, rising one above the other, both thinly, and, in some situations, densely wooded, was an agreeable change to the uninteresting sameness of the country through which we had, for the most part, journeyed.

The species of Eucalyptus, termed “Box Tree,” by the colonists, was most abundant: it has a rough, scaly bark, differing in that particular from most of the other species or varieties of the same genus. On the elevated spots, the Exocarpus cupressiforme, or native cherry-tree, was seen; but the situation appeared uncongenial to its growth; for, instead of the graceful and elegantly pending branches, with delicate dark-green foliage, such as this tree presents when growing in sheltered situations, it now had a stunted, brown, and wretched appearance. About noon, we arrived at Mr. Murphy’s station at Bingham, being seventeen miles from Squashfield.

The approach to marshy land is readily indicated by the melody of the frog tribe, among which, the peculiar sound uttered by that species known by the name of the “bell frog,” is very often heard: and indeed the name is not inapplicable to the creature, the sound it produces, being very similar to a sheep-bell. Detached clumps of wire grass,[53] intermingled with the brown-coloured sedge grass,[54] and at some places reeds (Arundo phragmites? Linn.) also point out those watery patches which are often met by the traveller while journeying through this country.

Birds were occasionally numerous, particularly when near a river; but magpies and crows were never found wanting in any part of the country, abounding every where: the former the same impudent, peculating race as at home. As for the parrot tribe, enough may be seen in a day’s ride to supply all the maiden ladies in Europe with pollies sufficient to talk or scream them to death in an inconceivably short period of time; and the peculiar noise of the laughing or feathered jackass, (Dacelo gigantea,) which increases from a low to a loud thrilling gurgling laugh, was often heard.

We continued our journey over a very beautiful and romantic country, with distant thinly-wooded mountains trending towards the Abercrombie river, which was not far off, reminding me of some of the splendid scenery of Devon. After travelling about four miles, descending a steep hill, we arrived on the banks of the river, which at this part of its course was a rapid, but not broad stream. Swamp oaks (Casurina paludosa) grew abundantly on the banks, their dark foliage giving a gloomy character to the scene.[55]

After crossing the river, (which, not having been lately swollen by rains, was effected without much difficulty,) we had to ascend a very steep hill, which brought us to a gradually ascending road over hills, having a remarkably beautiful, verdant, and romantic appearance. The thinly-wooded hills were thickly clothed with a bright carpeting of verdure, imparting a cheerful feature to the country, which was further increased by a number of flowers scattered about, of various tints; among which were the Gnapthalium, with yellow, white, and pink blossoms; Emu flowers, (Richea glauca,) and a great number of the Orchideæ family; their blue, pink, and yellow flowers rising a short distance above the surface of the ground,—all afforded a pleasing variety to the many natural beauties of this place.

As we ascended this road, the sloping declivities of the hills in the vicinity, clothed with rich pasturage, sufficiently wooded to give variety, with an occasional glimpse of the “Abercrombie,” winding its course between the lofty, smiling hills, increased, as we proceeded, the beauty of the prospect. Even the climate was changed: instead of the damp, frosty, wintry climate we had left only in the morning, we were suddenly transported (a word obsolete in the colony) to another region,—the weather fine—clear and serene sky—the sun shining brilliantly upon the smiling scene; birds carolling, seemed to sympathize in our feelings; butterflies and other brilliant insects sported over the gay flowers that strewed our path, and the whole formed a scene doubly felt by comparison with the uninteresting country we had left.

After we attained the summit of this hilly ascent, the road led through a more swampy and thickly-wooded country; but that character did not continue far, for we again approached an open forest country, and a farm at Bolam[56] appeared situated on an opposite hill to that over which the road we were then traversing passed. On descending, we crossed a rivulet or creek, (for the terms are synonymous in this country,) called “Bolam Creek;” and at five P.M., arrived at the neat farm of Mr. James Hassell. We now reached the Argyle country; and the contrast between this and the portion of the Bathurst district, through which we had passed, was much in favour of the former. The distance of our journey this day was twenty-eight miles; and our horses, not lately having had good feeding, from the poorness of the pasturage, we here gave them a day’s rest; and although we had to regret the absence of Mr. Hassell, we yet received every attention from the persons left in charge.

We resumed our journey early on the morning of the 30th; but the day turned out very wet.

About Bolam Creek, flocks of wild ducks were abundant. These birds were not so wild about creeks as on large rivers. The barn-doors about the farms (in imitation of a similar custom in the “old country,”) were decorated by the brushes and tails of that shepherds’ pest, the Dingo, or native Australian dog, and other vermin belonging to the colony. As we rode through the bush, the moist atmosphere occasioned a strong aroma to be diffused from the leaves of the gum-trees, as well as from odoriferous flowers. The country was of a picturesque character; and, after a distance of twelve miles, we reached a station belonging to Mr. Ellis, called “Turril, turril,” where we remained an hour to refresh our horses. I remarked the red gum in abundance on most trees of the Eucalyptus genus: the red, spotted, and white gum, iron, and stringy bark, manna, box, and others, produced it profusely: it exudes both spontaneously and in larger quantities, when incisions have been made on the trunk, more particularly after rain. It is seen in masses upon the trunk; but its particles have so little tenacity, that when in a concrete form any attempt to detach them in one entire lump fails, and it crumbles immediately into innumerable minute fragments.

This gum resin has a strong astringent quality, and is one of the varieties of the Kino of commerce, (the other variety of Kino being brought from Africa, and is produced by a tree of the Pterocarpus genus.) When first it issues from the tree, it is of the consistence of very thick syrup, and immediately after rain may be seen flowing from an incision or cleft in the tree very abundantly, being then of a very beautiful light-red colour, becoming of a dark shining red, and hardening, by exposure to the air. The Angophora lanceolata, or apple-tree of the colonists, (a genus allied to that of Eucalyptus,) also yields a dark-red astringent gum from its trunk and branches.

After leaving Turril, turril, we proceeded through a flat, swampy, and uninteresting country, rendered still more tiresome by the drizzling rain. Having passed “Stony Creek,” and descended “Church Hill,” we were glad to obtain shelter at the farm of Mingablah, the property of Charles Cowper, Esq., after a journey of twenty-eight miles. The soil about this part of the country was of a fertile character, but stony; abounding in the whinstone.

Much of the dull time during our confinement to the house, from the heavy and continued rain, was passed away by the amusing relations of the overseer, who informed us he had, from a very tender age, a “propensity” to keep living animals. Since his arrival in this country, he had succeeded in domesticating a large number of parrots, who went in and out of the house, without making any attempt to escape from his protecting care. But one fatal day this pleasing domestic scene was changed to one of a tragical nature; for, at an unlucky hour, a stranger arrived, accompanied by a big dog of a black colour. The result proved that the dog had only one “propensity,” and that, to speak phrenologically, was “destructiveness.” So, availing himself of the absence of those of human creation, and excited by the aforesaid organ, and the dulness of the times, he began to attack and speedily demolish the frames of the pollies, scattered their limbs and feathers about, and did not leave one survivor to relate the tale. The horrid sight that met the affectionate eyes of the owner on his return, was his favourites, some with bowels protruding from their natural cavity; others minus heads and limbs; and all so damaged, as to have life extinguished. The big black dog even then was caught busily occupied in shaking about what remained of those unfortunate feathered bipeds. After this melancholy occurrence, he became disheartened from having any more favourites, and gave it to us as the cause why he had no curious animals at this time to show us, but in my opinion the relation was much more amusing than the animals would have been: so their absence, at least to us, was not a source of regret.

Although the rain still continued, we proceeded on our journey the following morning, being desirous of reaching Goulburn Plains, (which was now only twenty miles distant.) We passed through a swampy, thinly-wooded country, and by noon arrived at “Tarlo,” on the banks of the Cockbundoon river. Proceeding several miles further, from the summit of a hill near the road, we were gratified by a splendid distant view of a portion of Goulburn Plains, and the open forest land in its vicinity. We passed through the township, which at present contains only a few bark and wooden habitations. This situation for the township not being originally well chosen, it is the intention of government to remove it to a more suitable part of the plains.

We arrived in the evening at the prettily situated dwelling-house and fine estate of J. Bradley, Esq., called Lansdowne Park; from which there is a fine prospect of a very picturesque portion of the plains. This part of the country, (called “Goulburn Plains” and “Mulwerry” by the aborigines,) is a series of beautiful plains, clear of timber, except where a few scattered clumps of Banksia rosmarinifolia, or “honeysuckle,” are seen, readily distinguished by its dark appearance, contrasted by the lively carpeting of verdure beneath and around them; hills of moderate elevation, with sloping declivities, and wooded on their summits, divide the plains, and give a pleasing variety to the prospect; while distant mountains, having a blue tinge, terminate the view to the horizon: occasional patches of land under cultivation with grain, innumerable herds of cattle grazing, and flocks of sheep, attended by their shepherds, gave animation to the verdant plains, not yet browned by the parching summer heats.

The following morning we crossed the plains, through a still beautiful country, passing the farms of Messrs. Howey, Rossi, and Moore, near which the Wollandilly river flows in a fine stream; after a ride of nine miles, the weather being unfavourable, we sought shelter, and received a kind reception at “Cardross,” the farm of Mr. Kinghorne.

On the road, several of that elegant species of the Eucalyptus, the E. mannifera, or manna-tree, were seen, having just produced flower-buds; but no manna was yet secreted from the trees. Since leaving the Blue Mountain range, not a single shrub of the Warratah or tulip-tree (Telopea speciosissima) has been met with; and I heard from several persons that the attempts as yet made to rear it in the gardens in this part of the colony had failed. From the splendid beauty of its flowers, the introduction would be desirable, as conducing much to the ornamental appearance of the flower garden.

CHAPTER VII.

Appearance among the natives of a disease resembling the small-pox—Origin and progress of that malady among the aborigines—Medical investigations—Plan of treatment—Variety of forms assumed by the disease—Its duration—The critical period—Dr. Mair’s report.

About two years previous an eruptive febrile disease made its appearance among the natives of Wellington Valley, resembling the small-pox in its principal characters. Some alarm was experienced in consequence among the Europeans, to whose children the disease had as yet been fortunately unknown. About a year after I was informed it prevailed among the aborigines at the Lachlan, Burragorang, and Cox’s river, and I remarked that several of the blacks at Goulburn Plains, and also at other parts of the colony, had pits on their faces, resembling those produced by small-pox, and which, they informed me, were caused by the disease in question. The name that this disease is known by among the aborigines is “Thunna, thunna,” or “Túnna, tunna,” and they describe it as being attended by sore-throat, head-ache, and high febrile symptoms, upon the day previous to the appearance of the eruptions; the latter were described to me as commencing in a similar manner, and passing through the same stages as is usual in small-pox, covering the face and all parts of the body, even to the soles of the feet and palms of the hands: it was also stated that adults were more covered with eruptions, and suffered more severely from the disease, than children, and the aggravation of the symptoms caused much mortality among them. Among the children it often occurred that only a few scattered eruptions would appear, and the febrile symptoms also assume a very mild character. No deaths occurred in these cases.

As far as our information at present extends, it appears not to be an introduced disease, or at least we have no facts to prove such being the case. It is mentioned in “Tench’s Account of the Colony of New South Wales, 1795,” that several natives had marks resembling those left by the eruptions of small-pox, and which I have no doubt originated from the disease, the subject of this chapter. Several old men were marked by it; and I understand that during the time it prevailed among the aborigines at Wellington Valley, they did not regard it as of foreign introduction; they considered it contagious, and when one party was attacked by this formidable disease, the others deserted them, to avoid being infected. None of the soldier’s children stationed at Wellington Valley took the disorder, although the blacks about the settlement were suffering from it; the children never had had the small-pox, but I could not be informed whether they had been vaccinated.

This disease excited so much attention during the time it prevailed,[57] that the government were induced to send a medical gentleman into the interior to report upon, and give his opinion regarding, its nature. Dr. Mair, assistant-surgeon of the thirty-ninth regiment, was deputed to this office. A more judicious selection could not have been made, although it may be regretted that his arrival was too late to observe its progress through the different stages, but he indefatigably devoted himself to procure such information as would place the nature of the disease almost beyond a doubt. The result was a collection of most interesting information upon its progress, character, &c., although several interesting points are still open for further medical observation and inquiry. On my return to Sydney, Dr. Mair kindly favoured me with a copy of the report he made to the colonial government, and I have availed myself of many of his remarks, and have devoted a chapter to the subject, regarding it as one interesting to non-medical, as well as medical readers, as the same disease, or at all events one very closely allied to it, has been, and still too often is, the cause of much domestic misery and suffering.

As far back as the year 1789, says Dr. Mair in his report, an eruptive disorder, resembling the small-pox, broke out among the aborigines, and proved extensively fatal: its marks are still to be seen on the bodies of several of them of very advanced age, corresponding in appearance with the pits left by the small-pox. From that distant period no similar disease had been observed among them, till about the month of August, 1830, when Mr. Brown, of Wallerowang, first saw this eruptive malady in five blacks, near the river Castlereagh, two in the incipient, and three in more advanced stages. He had, however, heard of its existence among the tribes to the northward six months before. One of these men was afterwards seen by Mr. Brown with pits like those of small-pox, on different parts of his body; and he ascertained that the others had died of the disease. Mr. Brown did not meet with any more cases of the disease till the beginning of August, 1831, when it manifested itself in three blacks, who had been in close communication with some others recently arrived from the Lachlan, and who had but a short time recovered sufficiently to be able to travel. These men stated that the disease had been raging in their part of the country, and that several had died of it. Some of the Wallerowang blacks, convinced of its contagious nature, had fled to Emu plains to escape infection; three of the number having afterwards returned were seized with it.

At Wellington Valley the same malady was first remarked, (as near as could be ascertained,) in October last year, (1830,) and continued to affect the blacks in that vicinity to December. The poor creatures blamed Captain Sturt for its introduction,[58] were much alarmed about it, and are represented as having anticipated some grievous calamity; a great fire and flood were predicted by one of their sages, which would come from Mount Harris and destroy them. From the testimony of George Clark, a convict, who had resided with the native tribes, far in the interior, for several years, and was lately taken prisoner by the mounted police the disease proceeded from the north-west coast, and spared none of the tribes as far as Liverpool Plains, attacking twenty and thirty at a time, none escaping its fury. The king, or chief of the tribe among whom Clark had been naturalized, was first seized with it, and died, as had been predicted by the kradjee, or physician and soothsayer. He had previously been with a tribe situated near the sea, and it is probable may have seen the disease before, although he disclaimed having any but supernatural knowledge of it.

The plan of treatment followed in the case of the king was immersion in cold water; four persons of less note underwent the same, and only one survived. The consequence was, that other medicinal measures were thought of, and the cold-bath was stigmatized and abandoned. Scorching the hair from the head, and pricking the pustules with a sharp-pointed fish bone, then squeezing out the fluid contained in them with the flat part of the instrument, was the next mode of cure adopted by the kradjee; and it is worthy of remark, that the operation suggested itself to him from the observation that the pustules burst spontaneously, and discharged whitish matter, in the first case of recovery.

It is curious, observes Dr. Mair, that the very same process was recommended by Avicenna, the celebrated Arabian physician, who flourished in the tenth century of the Christian era, and gave the first complete history of the small-pox, with this only difference, that the learned author used a more elegant instrument, a golden needle! and even in the present day the same practice is approved of by the best writers on the subject. The new method of treatment was attended with happier results than the old, only one out of six dying of the malady; and if, continues Dr. Mair, instead of entirely relinquishing the cold-bath, it had still been employed with judicious caution, the mortality might have been further reduced.

The kradjee, priest, soothsayer, or physician, (for he appears to exercise the functions of each,) goes through many superstitious ceremonies to cure his patient, with rods of two or three yards in length, which he fixes in the earth in a crescentic form, and addresses with a variety of gestures. The common people place implicit faith in his predictions; and it is asserted by Clark, that they sometimes bury alive those whom in his medical capacity he has abandoned. They believe the disease to be infectious, but do not shun one another on that account; they name it “Boulol.” The Lachlan and Wellington Valley tribes call it Thunna, thunna; and Dr. Mair also says that he heard a most lugubrious dirge chaunted at a Corrobera at Bathurst, commemorative of this destructive epidemic, and judged accurately of its nature from the melancholy note and solemn manner of the pageant.

Dr. Mair continues to state in his report, that the disease seems to have assumed a considerable variety of forms in different individuals, but from the concurrent testimony of all the observers who were consulted, the following symptoms may be considered as common to all of them. For several successive days the patient feels languid, indolent, and oppressed, loses his appetite, suffers from head-ache, pain of chest or stomach, increased heat of skin, and other febrile symptoms. The usual duration of this incipient stage appears to have been from two to eight days. It was followed by an eruption of small red spots, resembling flea-bites, which generally commenced on the face, and gradually spread more or less thickly over the head, breast, and extremities; the tongue and lips were likewise involved in the eruption, and the soles of the feet have been particularly remarked in many instances to be numerously studded with it.

When the eruption had fully developed itself, which generally occurred in twenty-four hours, a remission was observed to take place in the febrile symptoms, but the patient began to complain much of pain in the throat, and could only swallow liquids. The small red spots, or papulæ, were converted into vesicles or pustules, in periods, varying from three to seven or eight days; the fluid contained in these vesicles or pustules is represented by some as resembling whey, by others milk, and by others to be yellowish or straw-coloured, like the thin pus of sores. It was likewise described as bloody water. When at their height they were about the size of a pea. One very intelligent lady, who had witnessed its effects in several of the blacks, informed me the eruption was very like the cow-pock. The greater number of persons who had watched its progress, and who had likewise seen the small-pox in England, pronounced it to be that disorder. Scabs formed and fell off at different periods, in different cases, according to the length of time occupied by the maturation of the vesicles or pustules; these were occasionally confluent on the nose and cheeks, and frequently left permanent marks or indentations on the skin.

Its usual duration is stated to have been from a fortnight to three weeks in cases of restoration to health; but even after the eruption had entirely subsided, and the disease might be considered over, the convalescents were unable to walk for a long time, owing to the tenderness of their feet, from which the cuticle had entirely separated. In many cases the other sequelæ of the disease were very distressing; some lost their eye-sight, others had abscesses in different parts of the body, or foul and tedious ulcers, with great debility and emaciation. Death was said to happen generally among the Lachlan and Wellington Valley blacks about the third day after the appearance of the eruption; the tongue became much swollen, and covered with livid spots, the breathing greatly oppressed, and deglutition impracticable. Secondary fever was seldom observed, and when it occurred seemed owing to cold; but the rarity of secondary fever is easily explained by the early fatality of the disease in the severe cases in which only it could have been expected. Some were said to have perished at the very onset of the malady, before there was the slightest sign of eruption.

Among the tribes to the north-west of Liverpool Plains, the disease seems to have approached more nearly to the description of confluent small-pox, as it is met with in Europe. The eruption coalescing on the face, and being followed in a day or two by salivation, (or as Clark describes it, water pouring from the mouth as they lay on the ground,) about the 10th or 12th day, a sort of convulsive or epileptic fit took place, and afterwards the fluid from the mouth was of a bloody appearance, and more viscid, so as to be discharged with great difficulty.

This was considered the critical period, and was speedily followed by death, unless the patient soon after began to rally. The great difficulty and danger of this disease, (the confluent small-pox,) says Huxham, chiefly comes on at the state or turn of the pox; for however easily matters may have proceeded till this time, we are now (viz. the 7th, 9th, or 11th day from the eruption) very often surprised with a very shocking change, and terrible symptoms. The salivation and viscid discharge from the mouth are particularly described by Sydenham, and other eminent writers on this disease.

It has been remarked, by most of the eyewitnesses of this epidemic, that it proved chiefly fatal to adults and old people, seldom to children, and that those who had suffered from it at a former period, as indicated by the marks on their skin, escaped it altogether, while there were few other cases of exemption. Dr. Mair proceeds to give, in his report, cases in which some Europeans were attacked by it, on which he has made some very excellent observations, and I regret that my limits will oblige me to exclude them from this work. Dr. Mair observes, that he met with no opposition on the part of the aborigines in his wishes to extend to them the inestimable benefits of vaccination; those who had not suffered from the late epidemic, viewed their escape as accidental, and while its frightful symptoms and dire effects were yet fresh in their memories they were willing to submit to a simple operation, which, they were told, would henceforth protect them against the disease. Dr. Mair thus concludes his interesting and valuable report.

“1. The eruptive febrile disease, which lately prevailed among the aborigines, was contagious, or communicable from one person to another, and capable of being propagated by inoculation.

“2. It approached more nearly in its symptoms to the character of small-pox than any other disease with which we are acquainted, particularly to that species of small-pox described by Staff-surgeon Marshall, as occurring in the Kandyan provinces in 1819.[59]

“3. The mortality attending the disease varied from one in three to one in five or six, but might have been less if the persons labouring under it had been sheltered from the weather, and attended by physicians.

“4. Vaccination seemed to possess a controlling power over it, as three blacks who had been successfully vaccinated, although equally exposed to the disease, escaped infection.

“5. It was not confined to the aborigines, but in one instance attacked a European in the form of secondary small-pox, and proved fatal to a child with symptoms resembling confluent small-pox.

“6. In several cases it occasioned blindness, and left many of the poor blacks in a very debilitated and helpless condition, with marks which could not be distinguished from the pits of small-pox on different parts of their bodies.

“7. It was never observed to attack any of the aborigines a second time, and it spread alarm and consternation among them.” Soon after Dr. Mair’s report was sent in to the Colonial Government, an official notice was published in the “Sydney Gazette,” requesting parents to have their children vaccinated.

CHAPTER VIII.

Bredalbane Plains—Forest country—Cockatoos and parrots—Peculiar species of the lizard tribe—Medicinal trees—Bark of the wattle trees—Mr. Manton’s farm—Picturesque view—Yas plains—Encampment of natives—Stringy bark, or box tree—Use of that plant—Native method of cooking—The Australian negro—Game—The flying squirrel—Human chimney ornaments—Cloaks of opossum or kangaroo skins—Barbarous ceremonies—Women not admitted to the confidence of the males.

On the 3rd of October we resumed our journey, taking a bush path for a short distance, until we emerged upon “Bredalbane Plains,” a great portion of which is very swampy, and during heavy rains overflown. Passing a cattle station, the property of Mr. Chisholm, we had a view of another plain, or more correctly marsh, (named the third Bredalbane Plain,) abounding in reeds; here several birds of the heron species, known by the name of the “native companion,” (Ardea antigone,) were pacing about, in search of food, but rising with heavy flight on being disturbed. After an agreeable ride of fourteen miles, we arrived at “Mut, mut billy,” the farm of Mr. Reddal; here we remained for the night.[60]

Proceeding on our journey the following morning, we passed an interesting open forest country, possessing some good land for cultivation, and abundance of fine herbage for grazing. Many of the situations appeared too damp for sheep, but all, even to the mountain ranges, had fine feeding for cattle. About noon we arrived at “Gonnong,” a cattle station belonging to Mr. Kennedy, of Appin. Our route continued through a still beautiful country, abounding in fine herbage, and for the most part an open forest of much picturesque beauty; blocks of granite, grouped in various forms and of all dimensions, appeared elevating themselves above the land, crowning the summits of the hills, or protruding through the declivities.

Black and white cockatoos, (Psittacus funereus, Lath. and P. galeritus Temm.,) with an infinite variety of the parrot tribe, such as ground parrots, (Psittacus formosus, Lath.) loris, (Psittacus eximius, Shaw.) &c., enlivened the scene, for even their discordant screams are cheering in the depths of an Australian solitude; among them also the “Rosehill parrot,” which, for beauty, variety, and harmony of colours, is not to be equalled by any of the other species, was abundant; I picked up one of this species lying dead on the road, still warm, in full and beautiful plumage, and without any external wound to account for its death. The more gentle “Bronze-winged pigeons” (Columba chalcoptera) were also very numerous, alighting on the road to pick up food, unmindful of the near approach of the horses. The plumage of this bird varies from a beautiful fawn colour to a dark brown, with several brown feathers near the bases of the wings, from which cause it derives its colonial appellation. Numerous magpies, crows, and the smaller variety of birds of gay plumage, also crossed our path, exciting the admiration and attention of the traveller.

A peculiar, and, I believe, undescribed species of the lizard tribe, of a black colour and repulsive appearance, but perfectly harmless, was occasionally seen; the tail is very short in proportion to the length of the body, having the appearance of a portion of it being accidentally broken off, but on examination it is found to be the natural formation; they crossed the road before us, moving very slow, and did not display any signs of timidity at our presence. This species is said to be eaten by the aborigines.

After passing the Gap,[61] or opening in the mountain range, through which the road to Yas Plains leads, we continued for a few miles through a still interesting country. About this place several of the varieties or species of Eucalyptus, which have opposite leaves of a bluish green colour, their surface being sprinkled thinly with a whitish powder, were very abundant; it is from their foliage that the largest quantity of the camphorated oil, which so closely resembles the Caju puti, is produced. Some contain it in such abundance as to cover the hand with oil, when one of the leaves is gently rubbed against it. I am informed that the oil has been extracted in the colony for medicinal purposes, and, I believe, will be found possessed of similar properties to the Caju puti, so highly esteemed in arthrodial rheumatism as an embrocation. The oil known by the name of Caju puti[62] oil is produced from the leaves of a tree of the Melaleuca genus, of the species M. leucadendron and M. Caju puti.

By five o’clock, P.M. we arrived, after a very agreeable day’s journey, at the neat white cottage of Mr. Rose, at Mundoona: we had made a journey of twenty-nine miles this day, and were now within a few miles of Yas Plains, although they were not visible from this farm; the fine stream of the Yas river flows through the estate, only a short distance from the cottage. Since leaving “Goulburn Plains,” we had occasionally seen the “Green-wattle tree” still in bloom; its bark is highly valued for the tanning principle it abundantly contains; the bark of another “Acacia,” called “black wattle” by the colonists, also contains similar properties, but the former bears the preference from producing a stronger liquor, and from the latter imparting a much deeper red tinge to the leather; the bark is used in the tan pits macerated only in cold water, but when there is time and requisite conveniences, a decoction is made, by which a stronger liquor is procured. The aborigines, about the Illawarra district, and other parts of the colony, stupify fish, by throwing the bark of the “green-wattle tree” into the water.

I rode over to Yas Plains, to the farm of Mr. Manton, (a son of the celebrated gunsmith,) about four miles distant on the banks of the Yas river, the house being constructed on an elevated site, commands a fine picturesque view of the extensive plains or downs of Yas, the distant wooded hills, forest scenery, with the Yas river slowly winding its course beneath. This part of the colony appears valuable; the country is for the most part open forest, with luxuriant pasturage, and well watered, (an object of much importance in this arid country,) combining capabilities of cultivation and grazing land with picturesque beauty. The “Plains,” or more properly speaking, extensive downs, are destitute of trees, affording abundance of pasturage for sheep, &c., and the distance is terminated by open forest country, most part of which has already been granted or sold by government to settlers.

Mr. Manton’s farm is delightfully situated, having a fine stream of water running through it, every facility for sheep-washing is afforded him—a desideratum of the first importance in this colony, where wool forms the staple article, the settler’s main prop, and the cleaner it is brought to market, of course a better price can be obtained. The land about the farm, (as must be expected from all large grants,) is composed of good and bad portions, but the former, I believe, preponderates.

The natives had just arrived in the paddock, and established their temporary village or encampment; their habitations were merely sheets of bark, stripped from the trees in the vicinity, and supported by props, the sheet of bark being placed to windward, and shifted as might be required, the fire for cooking purposes, &c., being made in front. The aborigines are very expert in stripping large and perfect sheets of bark from the trees, and as this material is used by the colonists for the covering of huts and other purposes, the natives are often employed by them to procure it. The bark of two species of the Eucalyptus called “stringy bark” and “box-tree” by the colonists, (more particularly the former,) is preferred, as from them it is more readily stripped in pieces of the large size usually required. If the aborigines wanted to pass a river, I observed them strip off sheets of bark with great expedition, upon which they crossed, paddling themselves with a piece of wood, sometimes placing piles of mud at each end of the rude bark to prevent the ingress of the water, if there was any thing in it they wished to keep dry: having all the services they require out of the rudely constructed vessels, they desert and leave them either to be carried down the stream or rot on the banks, being aware that another canoe of the same rude construction is always ready when it may be required.

When the bark of the “stringy bark” (or, according to its native name in this part of the colony, Dether) is waved, it is rejected by the stock-keepers, fencers, &c., as unserviceable, the timber being then found twisted, and not capable of being split into straight pieces for paling, &c.; but when the fibres of the bark run in a parallel direction, the wood of the tree is also found to correspond, and the grain being straight is readily split into rails, posts, or applied to any other purpose that may be required by the settler. The wood of the “box-tree” (Eucalyptus marginata?) is considered very durable for flooring boards, shingles, &c., and the young trees for shafts of gigs; for the latter purpose it is considered by many persons not to be surpassed by any other kind of wood in the colony.

The usual mode of cooking among the native tribes, is by throwing the food upon the fire to broil, or rather to get half-roasted, in which state it is eaten; or a native oven is made in the ground, similar to those in use among the New Zealanders, and throughout the Polynesian Archipelago.[63] The remarks made on the characteristic features and intellectual capacities of the aborigines, previously seen in the Bathurst district, equally apply to those now seen in this portion of the colony. I cannot consider them so degraded a race as they have been represented. Lesson, alluding to the Australian negro, says, “To judge by his external appearance and intellect, the native of New South Wales would seem to have been degraded from the true rank of man, and to approach the nature of the brute.

“This race does not appear to differ in any thing essential from the Oceanic race, of which the Papuas alone form another somewhat distinct branch; they have a similarity of form and external character to the inhabitants of New Britain, New Ireland, and very probably those of New Caledonia. Poverty of soil and rigour of climate must have exerted an influence upon the race, and deteriorated it, and it is from this source that the slight differences arise, which seem to separate it from the African negro race, with which, however, an attentive examination shows it to be identical.” And he further observes, “it is probable that the negroes of New Holland have extended into the Australian continent, by New Guinea and the eastern islands, and that the migration has been made from the coast of Africa by the great island of Madagascar, which had itself, at a later period, received men of other races.”

The races inhabiting, however, the land of New South Wales and Van Dieman’s Land or Tasmania, differ; the former, although possessing the African features, have straight hair, whilst those of the latter country are more closely allied to the Papuans. As far as regards their occasionally miserable appearance, (for many are the reverse in the interior,) it may be counted for by a dependence upon a precarious supply of food. Having no natural fruits, they subsist principally upon the produce of the chase, having nothing to induce them to cultivate the soil; they have no fixed habitations, and consequently no villages; the different tribes or families remove to those localities where game may abound, and as too long a stay in any situation would cause a scarcity of game, they seldom remain in one spot longer than three or four days. How different then they are, in respect to country and climate, from those races inhabiting the Polynesian Archipelago, who live in a luxuriant and fertile country, abounding in all the vegetables and fruits of tropical countries, as well as having hogs, fowls, &c.[64]

Polygamy is permitted among the Australian aborigines: each takes as many wives as he pleases, or can maintain, and can dismiss or assign them over at pleasure; but many have only one wife, not taking another until she is dismissed. Some of the women of the interior tribes have fine forms, tolerably handsome features, and fine curled hair; the generality, however, of both males and females, are not conspicuous for personal beauty.

After wet weather they track game with much facility, and from the late rains the hunting expeditions had been very successful; game was therefore abundant at the camp, which consisted of opossums, flying squirrels, bandicoots, snakes, &c. I purchased, for a small piece of tobacco, the skin (the fur of which is remarkably fine) of a very handsome light grey flying squirrel, called by the natives Min, ugo, (and also Bango and Berat.) It is surprising the distance these animals “fly,” or spring, aided by the membrane extending from the sides between the fore and hind legs. The little sugar squirrel has been known to leap a distance of forty yards, from an elevation of thirty feet to the butt of a tree, across a river. One of the opossums among the game was a female which had two large-sized young ones in her pouch; the delicate morsels were at this time broiling, unskinned, and undrawn, upon the fire, whilst the “old mother” was lying yet unflayed in the basket.

It was amusing to see with what rapidity and expertness the animals were skinned and embowelled by the blacks; the offal was thrown to the dogs, but as such a waste on the part of the natives does not often take place, we can only presume it is when game, as it was at present, is very abundant—the dogs are usually in poor condition, from getting a very precarious supply of provender: the liver being extracted, and gall-bladder removed, a stick was thrust through the animal, which was either thrown upon the ashes to broil, or placed upon a wooden spit before the fire to roast; whether the food was removed from the fire cooked, or only half-dressed, depended entirely on the state of their appetites: the flesh of the animals at this time preparing for dinner by our tawny friends appeared delicate, and was no doubt excellent eating, as the diet of the animals was in most instances vegetable.

The natives are as dirty in general habits as in cookery, and this unclean race were often seen as “chimney ornaments” in the settlers’ habitations, placing themselves on each side of the fire-place, or almost in the hearth, to get warm, looking like a huge piece of charred wood, and forming objects neither useful nor ornamental; they have a great antipathy to any thing like labour, (I do not mean to disparage the race by this observation, for all uncultivated tribes are similar in this respect,) and the only way to get rid of them whenever they became troublesome, was to set them to work.

Both sexes wear cloaks made from several skins of the opossum, kangaroos, or other animals joined together. In cold weather the fur is worn turned inwards, making a warm and comfortable garment; neither males nor females appear to regard it as a covering required for decency, but merely as a protection against the inclemency of the weather, as it is frequently thrown aside. The skins of either the opossum or kangaroo are used for cloaks, and are prepared, when recently taken from the animal, by stretching them out upon the ground with small wooden pegs, the inner side being scraped with a shell, until they are rendered perfectly clean and pliable. The skins when dry are stitched neatly together, with thread made from the long tendons of the muscles about the tail of the kangaroo; (which when dried are capable of being divided into threads of almost any degree of fineness;) the needle is formed of a piece of bone; and a number of these skins sewn together form the cloaks in general use. Among both males and females many have a sort of tatauing, or ornamental marks scratched upon the inner part of the cloak, according to the taste of the owner.

Both sexes have the septum naris perforated, in which a piece of straw, stick, or emu-bone is worn, looking like what Jack would term a “spritsail yard;” this practice is universal among the whole of the tribes seen in the colony, and is regarded as highly ornamental. I have before alluded to the loss of an incisor tooth of the upper jaw, observed among the adult male natives; this, on inquiry, I found proceeded from a custom existing among them, (which is attended at the time with much ceremony,) of a male, on attaining the age of manhood, having to undergo this operation, receiving at the same time the “cumeel,” or opossum-skin belt, after which he is admitted into the society of men, permitted to attend the corroberas, or consultations when any marauding or war expedition is in contemplation, or when the tribe is about to remove from one part of the country to another: previous to this, they are considered only fit society for women, and associate principally with them. A son of a chief at Yas Plains, who had not yet undergone this ceremony, necessary for his admission, attended one of their meetings: on being discovered, he was obliged to leave the assembly.

The females among the native tribes have little confidence reposed in them by the opposite sex, from fear that their secret plans and expeditions might be divulged by them: when, therefore, they form a plot to steal or kill cattle, they are careful to conceal their schemes from the weaker sex, and boys associate with them; for in instances not a few, when plans for marauding excursions have been overheard by the females, the latter have betrayed them to the stock-keepers, and thus frustrated their intentions. But may not this proceed from the want of mutual confidence between the parties? Among the tribes a chieftain does not preserve an hereditary rank, chiefs being chosen for superior bravery, being the best hunter, or having a superior mind.[65] Thus men in a state of nature choose their leaders; and we may observe a similar order of things among gregarious animals.

CHAPTER IX.

Perch, and other fish—An elegant couple—Kangaroo dogs—Black and white cockatoos—Vegetable productions—Mr. O’Brien’s farm—Herds of cattle—Bush life—Proceed towards the Murrumbidgee river—A bush track—Romantic country—Arrive on the banks of the Murrumbidgee—Cross the river—Swamp oaks, and other trees—Remarkable caves—Return to Yas—Superstitious ceremonies—Crystal used in the cure of diseases—Mode of employing it.

Large quantities of native perch are caught in the Yas and Murrumbidgee rivers; their flavour is delicious: their average length is nineteen inches, and the weight from three to six pounds: they have however been taken from two and a half to three feet in length, and weighing seventy pounds; and some even of the enormous size of one hundred, and one hundred and twenty pounds:[66] the breadth is great in proportion to the length of the fish. Those I examined were of a yellowish-green colour, covered with irregular black spots, with a silvery abdomen. They are named by the colonists, “river cod;” and by the aborigines, “Mewuruk.”[67] In the stomach of this fish I frequently found shell-fish, of the genus Unio, in an entire state. The larger kind of these shells the natives of the Tumat country call “Nargun;” and the smaller, usually found in rivulets or creeks, “Pindaquin, or Bucki.” Occasionally half-digested masses of green caterpillars, and other insects, were also found in the stomach of this fish. In the Tumat country, varieties of the “river cod,” are called by the natives Bewuck, Mungee, &c. Another fish of the family of perches is also caught in the Yas, Murrumbidgee, and other large rivers in the colony: it is called the “perch” by the colonists, and “Kupé” by the natives. I preserved a specimen, caught in the Murrumbidgee, measuring seventeen inches in length, and six inches at its greatest breadth, containing a fine roe: twenty inches was the greatest length they had as yet been taken in this river; but, like the “river cod,” it increases more in breadth, in proportion to its weight, than in length. The colour of the Kupé was inclining to bronze; the ends of the scales being black, gave to the fish a checkered appearance.

Among the native inhabitants of the Yas district was a pair of originals: the man was called Daraga, and his lady the “beautiful Kitty of Yas.” Neither of them had pretensions to beauty. The lady had ornamented her delicate form (for all the ladies are fond of adornments) with two opossum tails, pendent in a graceful manner from her greasy locks; pieces of tobacco-pipe, mingled with coloured beads, adorned her neck; an old, dirty, opossum-skin cloak was thrown over the shoulders; a bundle of indescribable rags around the waist; and a netbul or culy hanging behind, (filled with a collection of “small deer,” and other eatables, that would baffle all attempts at description,) completed the toilette of this angelic creature. Of her features I shall only say, they were not such as painters represent those of Venus: her mouth, for instance, had a striking resemblance to the gaping entrance of a Wombat’s burrow. The husband also had decorated the locks of his cranium with opossum tails, with the addition of grease and red ochre; a tuft of beard ornamented his chin; and the colour of his hide was barely discernible, from the layers of mud and charcoal covering it: he wore a “spritsail yard” through his “apology for a nose;” the opossum-skin cloak covered his shoulders; and the “cumeel,” or belt of opossum-skin, girded the loins: the pipe was his constant companion, as the love of tobacco among those who have intercourse with Europeans, is unbounded, and no more acceptable present can be made them.

At meal times it was curious to observe the conduct of this interesting couple and the kangaroo dogs: it was evident that no good feeling subsisted betwixt the parties: the dogs regarded the former with an expression of anger, and the opposite party looked both sulkily and anxiously at the canine species;—the dogs appeared instinctively to fear that the human creatures would devour every morsel of the food, and that they should be minus their share; whilst the latter seemed to know, either by instinct or practical experience, that large dogs bite tolerably hard when angry.

Black and white cockatoos had lately become very numerous about this part of the country: the former appeared to have been attracted by some trees that had been felled when clearing a spot of land for cultivation—as these birds visit the dead or fallen trees to procure the larvæ of insects that breed in them. I have seen, more than once, small trees lying prostrate, occasioned by the powerful bills of the large black cockatoos, who, observing on the trunk, externally, indications of a larva being within, have diligently laboured to extract it; and should the object of their search be situated (as often occurs) far in, before they reach it, the trunk is so much cut through, that the slightest puff’ of wind lays it prostrate.[68]

Among some of the few vegetable productions in use among the Australian blacks as food, is the root of a species of bulrush, which they name “Cormiork.” It grows abundantly on the banks of the Yas, Murrumbidgee, Tumat, and other rivers: the roots are eaten only when young: they are prepared by being baked, and the epidermis removed. Europeans who have partaken of it, say it has an agreeable farinaceous taste. The roots are collected in spring, when the young plants have just commenced sprouting.

Among other farms about Yas Plains is “Mount Lavinia,” the property of my late fellow-traveller, Henry O’Brien, Esq., at whose place I passed many agreeable days during my sojourn at Yas. The house has been erected in a picturesque situation, upon a hill of moderate elevation, near the base of which the Yas river winds its course: the effect, on the approach to the house, is extremely pretty; the view from the hill overlooks a good extent of picturesque country, the greatest part is devoted to sheep pasturage; and some portion of arable land is alone wanting to make this spot still more charming. From another hill, on the plains, a short distance from that just mentioned, the view is still more expansive, overlooking the extensive verdant downs, surrounded in the distance by thinly-wooded hills, terminated in the south-west direction by distant blue mountains, near which flows the fine stream of the Murrumbidgee.

The plains were animated by herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and troops of horses, grazing, reposing, or exercising: the whole combination of this beautiful scenery excited the most pleasing sensations, which were heightened by its English character, and cause the settler to reflect less on the remoteness from home; when surrounded by his family circle, and a few select friends—language, manners, customs, being all in accordance with his own “native land:” his farm once under cultivation, and stocked, he feels but few, if any wants. Above all, he has no anxious moments about the future welfare of his children, as there are few difficulties, in a new country, in providing for them; and although many complain of the “dulness of bush life,” it is seldom the case with those who are practically acquainted with it, for time rapidly passes away in the various enjoyments of a rustic life, and the superintendence of duties which the farm imposes on a settler, each tending to advance his prosperity. The farm produces the necessary daily supplies for the tables; and the sale of the wool gives a cash income for the purchase of other articles, as wearing apparel, tea, sugar, agricultural implements, &c.; Sydney is therefore usually visited once annually to dispose of the wool, or ship it to England, and to purchase any supplies that may be required for the use of the family or farm of the settler.

Early on the morning of the 11th of October, in company with Mr. Manton, I left “Mount Lavinia” to visit a part of the country about the Murrumbidgee river, and fourteen or fifteen miles distant from Yas. We crossed the extensive plains, and entered a bush track leading through a fine open forest country; some of the land was boggy, but the most part consisted of open forest, with rich pasturage, and was well circumstanced for the several sheep and cattle stations we passed. From the general excellent quality of land on and in the vicinity of the Yas plains, as well as being well watered, extensive purchases from the government have been made by the settlers already having grants here, and nearly the whole, with water frontage, has been purchased; I am inclined to think that this part of the colony will prove the richest and most valuable of almost any of the present known portions.

On approaching the Murrumbidgee river, the character of the scenery increases in beauty, assuming even a romantic appearance,—the broken country adding to, rather than diminishing the effect: the day was cloudless, with a brilliant sun, so the prospect extended to a great distance;—green sloping hills, thinly timbered, only wanting the addition of mansions to the natural lawns and parks to perfect the landscape; flowers of great variety and gay colours strewed the ground in the utmost profusion; the indigo shrub (Indigofera australis) was also abundant in flower, with numerous other flowering plants; green natural fields decked the level land; the songs of birds, and their increased numbers, were sufficient to acquaint us that we were approaching a river. The scene was of the most animated description; in the distance long lines of “swamp oaks,” (Casuarina palludosa,) readily distinguished by their dark, peculiar appearance, indicated to us the course of the river. Having enjoyed the prospect from the elevation, we descended a steep hill, proceeded through a luxuriant pasturage, which was bounded by thinly-wooded hills, carpeted with verdure, and soon arrived on the bank of the Murrumbidgee stream, which may be, at this part, forty or fifty yards wide. On the opposite side of the river Mr. Manton possessed a grant, which he had just commenced to stock and cultivate: the locality appeared excellent during the cool months, but liable to be soon parched by the fervent summers.

Having hobbelled our horses, that eagerly fed on the luxuriant grass surrounding them, we crossed the river in a canoe which had been scooped by Mr. Manton’s servants from the solid trunk of a “water gum” tree, (Eucalyptus sp.) and was capable of carrying four or six persons. Arriving on its opposite side we were now beyond the acknowledged limits of the colony, although numerous cattle and sheep stations extend to a great distance further. On the banks of this fine stream, besides numerous flowering shrubs, the elegant “swamp oaks” towered to the elevation of fifty or sixty feet, their dark filiform foliage giving them the character of the larch: besides these, (which were by far the most numerous,) there were some enormous trees of the Eucalyptus genus, called “water gum” by the colonists; they attain from ninety to one hundred feet in height, with a diameter of from six to eight feet; the wood is of a reddish colour, and very hard: on account of the latter quality, it is less frequently used, being difficult to cut. The currijong (Hibiscus) also grew about the limestone rocks in the vicinity, and was readily to be distinguished from other trees by the lighter and more vivid green of its foliage. A number of European genera of plants indigenous to the country, or at all events from their situations giving reason to suppose so, grew in the vicinity of this river; among others, the “sow thistle,” (the young tops of which are eaten by the natives just before the plant commences to blossom,) a small red poppy, the crow-foot, a rumex or dock (R. lancifolia?) geranium, and “shepherd’s purse,” (Thlaspi bursa pastoris,) were abundant, and they are seen very far in the interior beyond this place.

Some caves have been lately found in the limestone rocks about this selection; and since the valuable discovery of fossil bones in those at Wellington Valley, by Major Mitchell and others, limestone caverns have become one of the colonial lions; these, therefore, were pointed out to me as objects of great curiosity; I found them however very small, and they did not repay the trouble of getting into them. They resembled the small caves often seen in the limestone quarries of Plymouth and Oreston, in Devonshire, from which some valuable fossils have been procured: stalactites of course abounded, but neither fossils nor any red calcareous earth, in which those remains have usually been found deposited. Among a quantity of dust were several loose bones, which had been at first described to me as fossils, but which were the breast bones and tibiæ of the emu, and skulls, and other bones of dogs, which no doubt had been placed there by the natives, for the tibiæ of the emu (here called Béréban by the blacks) had a hole at the upper and anterior part; this perforation is made, as many of them afterwards told me, to enable them more readily, by admitting air, to suck out the rich marrow from the lower end, which was broken for that purpose. The extent of the cavern was from fifteen to twenty feet; the entrance so narrow, that the explorer could only enter feet foremost, nor was it sufficiently large in the interior to enable him to stand erect. About sunset we returned to Yas, having a fine moonlight night for our journey.