THE ART OF HOME CANDY MAKING

THE ART OF HOME
CANDY MAKING

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS

THIRD REVISED EDITION
PUBLISHED BY
THE HOME CANDY MAKERS
CANTON, OHIO

TO THE
LADIES OF THIS COUNTRY
WHO ARE FOND OF GOOD
CANDY AND DESIRE TO
LEARN THE ART OF
MAKING IT, THIS VOLUME
IS DEDICATED.

INTRODUCTION

In presenting to you, our third edition of “The Art of Home Candy Making,” we can safely say, that a more complete or practical book, on Home Candy Making, cannot be found. We strive not only to give you a larger variety of the finest candies that can be made, but to make each recipe, so thorough and simple that anyone with a little study before making them, can make every piece in this book with little or no trouble at all.

In presenting a thermometer with each book and telling you how to use it, we lessen the work to such an extent, that when once using one, you would never attempt to make candy without it. In using a thermometer in candy-making, all it is necessary for you to do, is to put it down in the kettle in the boiling candy, and when it registers the required degree, the candy is done and cannot possibly be wrong.

Every batch you make will be just the same, as we give you the exact degree to cook every recipe. This book is intended for those who make candy at home, and does not contain a single recipe, but that may be made right at home in your own kitchen with a very small outlay for tools, other than for cooking material.

We have endeavored to make all things clear to you, but we must insist that you read each recipe over and study it carefully before starting to cook, if you wish success.

With this explanation we think you will agree with us that this is the most complete book on home candy making ever written.

Hoping you will make a success of your efforts, and with our assistance in answering all questions you will surely do so, we remain,

Very Truly Yours,
THE HOME CANDY MAKERS.

Canton, O.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

After reading the introduction to this book, you will understand that it is not written for professional candy-makers, but for those who make candy at home; and consequently it is necessary to go into every little detail, which of course, will make these instructions rather lengthy.

We will endeavor to make them as plain as though we were holding a personal conversation with you, and explain to you, how to put the style and finish to each piece of your home-made candies, that will equal any of the finest grades of candy that are made today.

In reading these instructions, do not get the idea that any single one of these recipes are too difficult for you to make, for you will find they are very simple when once you have begun.

Any of these may be cut down or increased as you desire, but always use the same proportions, and cook the batch to the same degree. Remember, the degree is always the same, no matter how large or small you make your batches.

Do not think it absolutely necessary to get everything in the line of tools that we mention in this book, to have success with your candy, as it is not. For our whole aim is to teach you how to make your candies with as little expense as possible. But to those who wish to go into it a little deeper than others, or who make their candy to sell, it would be well for them to have as many of these tools as possible, for while not being a necessity, are a great convenience.

These candies can be made at an average cost of from eight to fifteen cents per pound for the materials used in them. In bon-bons the cost is considerably lower than in chocolates as you will find out.

This chocolate coating you will use for dipping, is very expensive, but you will find your chocolate creams cost you about fifteen cents per pound in the end; and they are the same grade of chocolates that you pay from sixty to eighty cents per pound for in the best candy shops.

There is no way to cheapen your coating chocolate, but one pound of chocolate will cover two to three pounds of candy, according to the kind of candy to be dipped, as some are heavier than others.

By bon-bons we mean the fancy colored ones with the fancy centers, and coated with bon-bon cream; not chocolate coated ones, as we call those chocolate bon-bons.

The cooking question, which is three-fourths of candy-making, is here solved by the use of the thermometer, which accompanies this book. By cooking your candy with a thermometer, you are not only exempt from burning or overcooking your batches, but your candy will always be exactly the same; and after you have made the bon-bon cream alone, you would not take many times the cost of this book for your thermometer, if you thought you could not procure another.

If at any time you have trouble with any recipe, look and see if you have followed the instructions exactly as written, and if you have and it does not act right, drop us a line, enclosing a stamp for reply, telling us in as few words as possible, how it acts and where it is not right, and we will write at once where your trouble is. If one of your batches shows signs of turning to sugar or gets gritty, simply try it again and use a little more glucose than called for in the recipe. But we know that if you follow the instructions and read every recipe carefully before making it, that you will never have any trouble, as we make these candies ourselves every day, and we know that these recipes are correct. Therefore we repeat, that you must be exact in your weighing and the degree you cook the batch to, if you wish success.

These candies can be seen at any time, at either of Mr. Ned. R. Goldberg’s stores in Canton, O.

In giving you the following recipes we will no doubt shatter a great many ideas that you now have in regard to home candy making; especially as to the style of cooking, size of batch, and length of time you keep your fondants after being made.

In making your Christmas candies, commence from three to four weeks before hand, and make your chocolate creams first, as they will keep perfectly for that length of time, and even longer. Make your bon-bon cream at least two weeks before Christmas, and let it have a few days to season before making it into bon-bons. It will keep for six weeks in cold weather if necessary and all you have to do is to dampen the cloth about twice a week, and keep it in a cool, dry place; if you wish to make bon-bons or wafers at any time, just go to the crock, take out as much as you need, replace the cloth, and it is ready for the next time.

If you have a fair sized slab, you can make at least a five-pound batch of fondant at one time, but if you use a platter to cool it on, we would not advise you to make more than about two pounds at a time, as it will not cool quick enough, and is then liable to grain.

If you ever have a batch of fondant so grainy that you cannot use it, simply cream it up and use it for fudge or caramels in place of sugar as the recipe calls.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE NECESSARY TOOLS.

The number of tools absolutely necessary for making candy at home, are very few outside of your ordinary cooking utensils. But we will mention a few of them here, so that you may know just what to get in case you care to purchase them.

The Thermometer—You already have, (see article on “How to Use the Thermometer.”)

Marble Slab—The next most important thing both for its usefulness and convenience is a marble slab. While it is not absolutely necessary to have one, we would advise everyone to make an effort to get one. Almost any size or kind of a piece of marble will do. If you have an old marble top stand, dresser or some other piece of furniture with a marble top, use that. If you purchase one, see that it has a nice smooth top, and the size about 18 x 18 inches. It does not matter if it is a little larger one way, but this is the standard size. You can buy candy slabs most any size of any marble dealer very cheap. If you have a large stone platter, you can use that for nearly every kind of candy in this book; but buy a slab by all means if you can.

Steel Bars for Slab—Get four steel bars ¾ x ½ inch in thickness, (they will cost you about thirty cents at any hardware store). Measure your slab before buying the bars in this way; if the slab is 18 x 18 inches, get two bars each 17 inches long, then get two each 16 inches long; these bars are shorter than the first ones, so that they may be set in between the long ones, making as large or small a dish as the individual batch requires.

Scraper—The best thing to use for creaming up the different kinds of fondants is an ordinary wall paper scraper, which can be bought for ten cents at any hardware store. A wooden butter paddle will answer the purpose if you cannot get a scraper.

Candy Paddle—A wooden paddle is better to use in stirring candy than a spoon, especially those candies that contain milk or cream, as they must be stirred continually while cooking to prevent scorching, and you are very liable to get burned. Take a piece of wood about 15 inches long and about 2½ inches wide on the paddle end, and about ½ inch thick and taper it towards the other end for a handle. Keep this paddle exclusively for stirring candy.

Spatula—A spatula is a very convenient tool for the kitchen and is really as useful for cooking as candy-making. It may be used for scraping out the candy kettle, cake bowl, removing pies or cookies from the pan, icing cakes and in various other ways. A spatula nine inches long will cost you about 25c at any hardware store.

Kettle—Take a granite kettle holding about 2½ gallons, and it will hold any size batch given in this book. Some candies boil up considerably and it is necessary to have a large kettle to avoid its running over. If you make only a pound or so of candy at a time, take a smaller kettle, so the syrup will not scorch and that the bulb of our thermometer will be well down in the boiling syrup. If possible get a round bottom kettle, which is better than a flat one, because there are no edges for the syrup to stick to, and it is much easier to stir, especially those that must be stirred while cooking.

Funnel

Funnel—If you make wafers frequently, you will find that a funnel will be a great help to you in dropping them, so that they will be uniform. Have a tinner make you one after these directions: Shape a piece of tin 8 inches long like a cornucopia, 6 inches at the top and tapering to the opening at the bottom, which should be ⅜ of an inch in diameter; the handle should be about 5 inches long and shaped like a dipper handle. A round stick, a flag stick, tapered to fit the opening is used in dropping the wafers. This funnel is also used for dropping the cream centers for chocolate. (See article on “How to Mold in Cornstarch.”)

Candy Hook

Candy Hook—In making all kinds of taffy, a hook is the best thing to pull it on, for taffy which is pulled in this manner, will be lighter and more fluffy than if pulled with the hands alone. Any blacksmith can make you one very cheap in this manner: Take a piece of tinned iron 17 inches long, and ½ or ¾ inch in diameter; commence a little over half way down and bend it up like a fish hook. Have the other end flattened out a little and have two holes bored about two inches apart so you can screw it on the wall.

Gloves—A pair of canvas gloves with a buckskin face, slightly greased is a great protection to the hands when pulling taffy or spreading out the different kinds of brittles. If they stick to your taffy, just dust them with a little cornstarch or flour.

Double Boiler

Double Boiler—It is not absolutely necessary to have a double boiler, but it is a great convenience to have one holding about a pint or a little more, in which to melt the fondant or chocolate. You may substitute an ordinary bowl and a pan of hot water in which to set it, and obtain the same results.

Dipping Wire—This is used in dipping bon-bons and accompanies the book. (See article on “Bon-Bons.”)

Plaster of Paris Moulds—These moulds accompany the book and are used for making the centers for chocolates. (See article on “How to Mold in Cornstarch.”)

HOW TO USE THE THERMOMETER.

Thermometer

The first thing necessary for you to do is to test your thermometer. They are supposed to register exactly 212 degrees in boiling water, as this is the standard they are made by; but in different altitudes, water boils at different degrees, so they are very liable to vary somewhat. The different degrees given in this book, to which it is necessary to cook the candies to, are based on the supposition that your thermometer registers exactly 212 in boiling water; so that if it registers either higher or lower than that, you must allow for the difference.

Learn to read it accurately the first thing you do. Put some water in a kettle on the fire, and as soon it comes to a boil, set your thermometer down in it with the bottom of the thermometer as near the center of the pan as possible, and let it lean over against the side. Let it remain there for a few moments and then look and see what it registers, and if it is exactly 212, always cook every recipe in this book to just the degree called for. It does not matter how long you let it remain in the boiling water, it will never go any higher after it comes to a good boil. The reason is this, that the water will evaporate if you allow it to boil long enough, and consequently it can never get any hotter. In candy there are other substances which, as the water evaporates, keep getting hotter and retain the heat, and for that reason the mercury in the thermometer will naturally rise higher than 212.

If your thermometer registers lower than 212 degrees in boiling water, notice very carefully just how many degrees it is off, and simply deduct that many degrees from the number given, to which each recipe must be cooked.

If it registers higher than 212, add the number of degrees it registers over 212, to the amount given for each recipe. For example: Supposing your thermometer should register 209 in boiling water. It would consequently be three degrees too low, and in cooking your candy, simply deduct three degrees from the number called for in the recipe. That is, if you are making fondant, which called for 240 degrees, only cook to 237, and it will be exactly the same as it would be, if you cooked it to 240 with a thermometer registering 212 in boiling water. In case your thermometer registers over 212, simply add the difference in the same manner as we have directed you to deduct, in case it was too low.

To avoid mistakes and spoiled candy, we would advise you to mark each recipe as soon as you have tested your thermometer.

In using it in candy, put it in the kettle just the same as directed for testing in boiling water, and it is always necessary to have enough candy in your kettle to come up over the bulb, or it will not register accurately. We mean by this, that if you cook only a small amount of candy, you must put it in a small kettle, so it will be deep enough to cover the bulb of the thermometer.

If the candy should cook up on the thermometer so it would cover the degree to which you intend it, just raise the thermometer a little, being very careful not to lift the bulb out of the syrup, wet your finger, pass it over the glass tube, and you will have no trouble in reading it.

In cooking fudge and such candies in which you use milk or cream, they will always boil up high on your thermometer at first, but by the time it is cooked enough to register the right degree, you will find it has boiled down enough, so the degree mark will be above the syrup, but you must wet your finger and wipe off the glass before you can read it.

When cooking candies that require stirring, occasionally slide the thermometer around the kettle and stir where it stood, to prevent scorching, being very careful not to lift the bulb out of the syrup.

While the thermometer is tested, and is subject to sudden changes of heat, it is always advisable to warm it slightly before putting it into the boiling syrup. The thermometer is too expensive to take any risks. There is no danger of its breaking when put into the boiling syrup, for that is the use for which it is intended.

Always remember when making candy, that as soon as the thermometer registers the right degree, lift it out of the syrup very quickly, and set it in a pan of water and get your batch off the fire as soon as possible. You must move quickly, or the candy is liable to go up one or two degrees and that is sufficient to spoil your batch.

Never put it in cold water after taking it out of the batch, but have a pan of warm water ready so you can set it in as soon as your batch is done. This will keep your stove from getting smeared and also protect your thermometer. The thermometer will never make a mistake if you read it correctly.

Few people are aware that professional candy-makers use a thermometer, and are under the impression, that all candies are tested in cold water, better known as the hand test. Until a few years ago, the candy thermometer was almost unknown and candy makers everywhere used the hand test; but when the thermometer was introduced for candy-making, they were quick to see the possibilities of such an invention and abandoned the water test, because by cooking with a thermometer, the candy was always the same, no batches too hard or too soft, as was the case with the old way.

We will give you the different hand test degrees as compared with the degrees on a thermometer:

Hand Test.	Thermometer.
Pearl	220°
Small Thread	228°
Large Thread	236°
Blow	240°
Feather	242°
Small or Soft Ball	244°
Large or Hard Ball	250°
Small or Light Crack	254°
Hard Crack	284°

MATERIAL USED FOR CANDY MAKING

Sugar. In all the recipes that call for sugar, use granulated sugar unless otherwise specified.

When cooking a small amount of sugar a small pan should be used or else the pan should be placed on an additional ring, so that the fire will only strike a part of the bottom of the pan. The heat should never strike the pan above the sugar, this causing it to bake on the sides of the pan and sometimes dissolving the pan.

Slowly cooked sugar makes tough and sticky candy, so that candy of any description should be cooked as rapidly as possible.

Confectioner’s Sugar, sometimes called XXXX, is especially ground for candy making purposes. XXX sugar is a coarser grade and is not as satisfactory as the XXXX sugar. Pulverized sugar cannot be used as a substitute and give satisfactory results, because it hardens.

Water. Always use cold water when making candy. The quantity of water used must be regulated according to the sugar.

Milk. Use fresh milk in preference to Pasteurized or sterilized milk, because it is not so liable to curdle.

Glucose is a very thick, transparent, tasteless liquid extracted from corn; it is usually of a yellow tinge. Very few people know how glucose is made and are under the impression that it is an injurious adulteration. Because glucose is used extensively in cheap candy, there is a certain amount of prejudice against it. By using glucose sparingly in certain candies it imparts a smoothness and also prevents any stirred candy from turning to sugar.

It may be purchased from any confectioner that makes his own candy. When purchasing it, it is necessary to take a bucket or jar, because it must be put into something that will be easy to get it out on account of its sticky quality.

In putting it into the kettle, first weigh the kettle with the paddle, take out the glucose with the paddle and when you think you have the required amount, weigh the glucose, kettle and paddle. If you do not have scales to weigh it, be very careful not to use too much glucose, because it will spoil some candies.

Glucose is easily handled in cold weather, because it gets very thick. Dip your hand in cold water, scoop out a small quantity of glucose, keeping your hand moving all the time; by doing this it will not stick.

One pint of glucose weighs one and a half pounds.

Corn Syrup, which is ninety per cent. glucose, may be purchased at almost any grocery and may be used as a substitute for glucose. Use a little more than the amount of glucose called for. Corn syrup is of a yellow color, consequently all of the candies in which it is used will be of a cream color. (See cream of tartar.)

Acetic Acid. The addition of acid in candy, “breaks the grain” of the sugar, and brings out the flavor.

It may be purchased at a drug store. Ask for No. 8 and five cents worth will last a long time because it is only used for making fondant and oriental creams.

Cream of Tartar. (Substitute for glucose.) As a rule a fourth of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar is used for every five pounds of sugar in making various kinds of candies, such as butterscotch, brittle, center cream; it may also be used for making a grainy fudge, which is the only exception when it is used in a stirred candy.

Japanese Gelatine, a vegetable gelatine, is used in making the various jellies. The ordinary gelatine cannot be used as a substitute.

Nonparaf must be used instead of paraffine in all candy made for sale, on account of the pure food laws. It is used in chewing taffy and caramels; it keeps them in shape and preserves their good qualities. It may be omitted, but by so doing a certain chewing quality of the candy is destroyed.

Chocolate. Only coating chocolate should be used for candy making because it is stronger in flavor and imparts a delicate taste such as no other kind does. It may be bought of any confectioner, who makes his own candy, in ten pound cakes.

Flavors. The best candies may be spoiled by using cheap flavorings, and we strongly advise you to buy the very best. Only a few drops are required for flavoring candies and, by buying a few at a time you will be able to have a large assortment in a short while.

Color Pastes may be used for coloring ice cream, cakes, icings and desserts and they add a dainty touch to an otherwise ordinary dish. Those that are used for candy making are adapted for all other needs, are pure and strong, so that a two ounce jar will last a long time. Colors seem to be a necessity when making bon-bons, and we offer you a variety. Leaf green, fruit red, golden yellow, damask rose, caramel, violet, chestnut, mandarin orange and imperial blue.

Color pastes which we sell are made from vegetable colorings and are guaranteed under the pure food laws.

Almond Paste is used as centers for bon-bons.

Paper. Waxed or oiled paper. You may use the ordinary waxed paper that is found in all stores for covering butter, etc. Waxed paper is used to line candy boxes and also for wrapping candies.

Wafer Paper. For dropping purposes, a heavier paper is required, such as is found in cracker boxes, cookies, etc. Save all these papers, iron them flat and they will answer the purpose and save you the expense of buying wafer paper.

Rice Paper is only used when making nougat, and can be bought at a confectioner’s.

Wax paper bags are a neat and sanitary way of putting up salted and fresh nuts.

HOW TO CRACK NUTS AND PREPARE TOPS FOR BON-BONS.

It is more convenient to buy your nuts already shelled, although it is more expensive. English walnuts are probably used more than any other nut, for tops of bon-bons and centers also. It is probably better to purchase these with shells on and crack them yourself, as they are very easily cracked.

In purchasing these nuts, get the smallest ones possible, as the smaller they are the prettier they will look on your candies. We advise you to always keep your bon-bons small in size.

The California English walnuts do not crack out as pretty as the Grenoble nut does, as the meat in them is a much prettier shape and rougher on top, and looks much nicer on the bons-bons. The Grenoble nut is an English walnut, imported from Germany, and you may always distinguish them from the fact that you can stand them on end; while a California English walnut is so pointed at the ends that it will not stand up. Crack carefully on the side which does not have the ridge running down it, as then the halves will come out perfectly whole. The ones that break may be chopped up and saved, to be used in the centers of the bon-bons.

Almonds are very easily cracked and you will have no trouble with them. Always crack hickory nuts on the edge. Black walnuts should be cracked on the broad side, as you never use them only in small pieces, and it is not necessary to use any care in cracking them. In some candies, these walnuts are finer than any other nut, as they give the candy a peculiar flavor, especially in caramels and different taffies. These are the ordinary walnuts that grow wild all over the country.

Pecans are a very hard nut to get out whole, but if you purchase as large thin-shelled ones as possible, put them in a pan, pour cold water over them, let them stand for about five hours, then pour off the water and let stand for a while, or even over night until they dry off on the outside, you will then be able to get the meats out very nicely without them breaking much. They are a very brittle nut, but by soaking them as directed, they do not break very easily. Crack on the side which does not have the small vein running from end to end, taking care not to hit them too hard, and you will find that the halves will split open very nicely; and if you will use a little care in removing them from the shell, by using a knife with which to loosen them around the edge, you will be able to get a great many of the halves out perfect.

Use the perfect halves for the tops of your bon-bons. Pick over the broken ones and save the largest pieces of them with which to make Chocolate Pecan Fritters (see recipe), and the small pieces you may chop up fine and use for centers. It takes about two pounds of unshelled pecans, almonds, or English walnuts, to make one pound of shelled meats.

For peanut candy, always get if possible, the small unroasted Spanish peanut, and they may be purchased of any confectioner or candy factory, and at a great many of the large stores. They come already shelled and should cost you from twelve and one half to fifteen cents a pound. These nuts are much finer in flavor than the large peanut, and by using the raw ones and roasting them in the candy as we direct you in the recipe, you will find the flavor of your candy much nicer. Of course, if you wish to use peanuts for the centers of bon-bons or chocolate creams, any kind of roasted ones chopped up will answer the purpose.

In chopping your nuts, it is much better to lay them on the table and use a butcher knife with which to cut them up, than it is to put them in a bowl and use a chopping knife; as by chopping them in a bowl, you are unable to get them so uniform, as the ones at the bottom will be chopped up into a fine powder, for which you have no use, before the ones on top are small enough. By cutting them up with a knife as directed, you will be able to get them all about the same size. You will see the advantage of this after trying it once.

Pistachio nuts make one of the prettiest tops you can find for bon-bons. They are a small, dark green nut, which may be purchased at a great many large grocery stores in cities, if you live convenient to one. Also some confectioners have them on hand, but not many of them. They are an expensive nut, but a few of them go a great ways, as they must be split in two. After splitting them open, save the prettiest halves for the tops of the bon-bons, and all broken and off-colored ones you may chop up very fine, and use for sprinkling over the tops of your pink bon-bons and they also look very pretty sprinkled over chocolate creams before the chocolate hardens.

BON-BON CREAM (FONDANT).

Have all of these articles conveniently at hand: Place the table in a position where the air will strike it on all sides from a door or window. Be sure that it is level and that you can pass around it. Arrange the kettle in the most convenient manner, so that when you lift it off the stove you will not have to turn it about or jar it unnecessarily, as this is sufficient to spoil the syrup.

BON-BON CREAM.

5 pounds Granulated Sugar.
6 drops Acetic Acid.
1½ pints cold Water.

Put the sugar and water into the kettle and place it over a HOT FIRE (it must boil quickly and not be allowed to simmer), and stir constantly until it commences to boil. It is not necessary to stir quickly, but the sugar must not be allowed to settle. USE THE WOODEN PADDLE or spoon to stir with, and splash the syrup against the sides of the kettle to wash down the granulations. Just before the syrup begins to boil, wipe down the sides of the kettle with a damp cloth and BE SURE THAT THERE ARE NO GRANULATIONS ON THE SIDES OF THE KETTLE, because, unless they are removed they would make the fondant gritty. NEVER STIR THE SYRUP AFTER IT BEGINS TO BOIL. NEVER JAR OR MOVE THE KETTLE WHILE THE SYRUP IS COOKING.

When the syrup begins to boil, add the acetic acid. Drop it on a spoon because you might not drop it accurately. TOO MUCH ACID would spoil the candy. Put the lid on the kettle and let it steam for several minutes. This is done so that the steam will wash down the sides of the kettle and remove some remaining grains of sugar that might be sticking to the sides. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ALL OF THESE GRAINS SHOULD BE REMOVED. Do not remove the lid until the steam is coming out freely around the edges, because it does not matter if the lid is left on a little longer than three minutes. Remove the lid and put in the thermometer, so that the bulb is covered with the syrup. The thermometer may be read easier if it is fastened to the kettle by the hook on the back of the case. If a black scum appears on the surface do not disturb it until it gathers into a bunch, then carefully remove it by using a spoon and do not disturb the syrup.

While the syrup is cooking, prepare the slab by washing it with a damp cloth. Do not dry it and NEVER GREASE THE SLAB WHEN MAKING FONDANT. Place the bars in position. If you use a platter instead of a slab, it must be ice cold.

When the thermometer registers 240 (remember to make the correct allowance if your thermometer does not register 212 in boiling water), remove it quickly. See that your way is clear, lift the kettle off the stove and carry it to the slab, taking great care not to shake the syrup. Pour the syrup on the slab, beginning in the center at one end of the slab, pouring down toward the corner and while doing this, keep the kettle as close to the slab as you can, and at the end, quickly tip up the kettle so that it will not drip. NEVER ALLOW THE LAST OF THE SYRUP TO DRIP OUT OVER WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY POURED ON THE SLAB. NEVER SCRAPE OUT THE KETTLE, because these drops and scrapings will granulate, and when the syrup is cold there will be sugared spots on top. If this should occur, they must be removed before the syrup is worked, because they would make the fondant gritty. NEVER MOVE THE TABLE OR PLATTER WHILE THE SYRUP IS COOLING AS THIS WOULD RUIN THE CANDY. Allow the syrup to remain on the slab until cold. Test it by using the back of the hand, as it is more sensitive than the palm. WHEN THE SYRUP IS COLD IT IS READY TO BE WORKED. Then it should be as smooth as glass.

WORKING THE FONDANT.

Remove the bars by running a corner of the scraper between them and the syrup.

With the scraper or wooden paddle commence by scooping or turning the syrup toward the center so as to get it into a mass in the center of the slab, as shown in [Fig. 1]. Continue turning it over and over; always work from the edge and keep the scraper in the position of [Fig. 1]. The mass will move from one end of the slab to the other, but by always working around the edge, you will be able to keep the syrup in a mass and prevent it from spreading over the slab. Each time that you turn up the syrup, scrape the slab clean and turn the scraper up and over the mass as shown in [Fig. 2]. This movement removes the syrup from the scraper and when it works up to the handle, clean the scraper with a knife. Sugar will soon appear on the under side of the scraper, but this is only an indication that the syrup is reaching the creamy stage, when it will become much thinner and easier to work; also it will require more rapid working to prevent it from running off the slab. ([Fig. 3].)

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

When this stage is reached, work rapidly and in a short time it will become harder and finally become a hard ball when it is finished ([Fig. 4]). Scrape off any remaining particles on the slab; clean the scraper, and put this sugar on the batch. Wring out a heavy cotton cloth out of COLD WATER (such as a piece of toweling), so that it is damp, and place this cloth over the fondant on the slab; tuck it in on all sides, allowing it to remain for a half hour. This sweats or seasons it and mellows the fondant. Remove the cloth and your efforts will be rewarded by a mass of snow-white fondant, smooth as velvet. Cut it into chunks and put them into a crock or stone jar. Wet the cloth, (wring it out well), and lay it over the top of the crock. It must not touch the fondant, because the cloth will draw the syrup and absorb the moisture of the fondant. In three days it will be ready for use.

Fig. 4

The fondant may be kept six months in a dry, cool place. Keep the cloth moist. You may have the delicious bon-bons at any time, as the fondant is always ready for immediate use.

If, after you have poured the syrup on the slab, you find that some scum has poured out with it, remove it just before you begin to work the syrup, because it will then be cold and there will be no danger of spoiling it.

If, when you begin to work the syrup and you find there are granulations on the bottom of the slab, or through the syrup, it indicates that you disturbed the syrup while cooking, jarred it too much when pouring it out, cooked it too high or did not cool it rapidly. If this should occur, work the syrup according to the above instructions and the sugar may be used for cooking purposes or for any kind of candy EXCEPT FONDANT.

You never beat the fondant, but it may be kneaded before putting it into the crock, if you wish to make it finer grained.

When the fondant is kept for any length of time, a crust forms on top, if the cloth becomes dry, which may be melted with the rest of the fondant. It is not spoiled. The contact of the air is the cause of this crust forming. Moisten the cloth and the crust will soften in a short while.

IMPORTANT: Never begin to work the syrup until it is cold. This is one of the secrets of perfect bon-bon cream.

Before you pour the syrup on the slab, wet your hand a little in cold water and moisten the slab, but do not get it too wet.

If any of the syrup should run out, hold something at the place where it is running out underneath the bars (for a minute or two) until the syrup hardens a little and it will stop running out. NEVER PUT THE SYRUP THAT HAS RUN OUT IN THE BATCH ON THE SLAB, BECAUSE IT WOULD MAKE THE WHOLE BATCH GRAINY.

Always use the same side of the slab for fondant, and this side must never be greased.

Bon-bon cream should always be covered, so that it does not dry out.

It should not be used the same day that it is made.

Don’t allow the batch to get too cold, as that takes all the life out of the sugar.

The crock may be covered with wax paper and a lid.

Do not make a batch larger than what you can cool quickly on your slab, because it will take too long to cool properly. Sugar that is cooled slowly loses its strength and after it is melted, it will not keep a good string, and also will be dull looking within a few days.

If the fondant in the crock becomes hard from neglecting to keep the cloth damp with which it is covered, wet the cloth, squeeze it slightly and place it over the crock. The moisture will be taken up by the fondant, which will be as good as before the moisture was evaporated.

If you should be so unfortunate as to spoil a batch of fondant, you can use the sugar for most any kind of candy, except fondant or orientals, by simply using the grained fondant in place of sugar.

MAPLE FONDANT.

2 pounds Maple Sugar.
1 pound Granulated Sugar.
1 pint Water.

If you cannot procure the maple sugar, use the following recipe:

4 pounds Maple Syrup.
1 pound Granulated Sugar.
½ pint Water.

Maple fondant is made in the same manner as bon-bon cream. There is no acid used with the maple fondant.

It is more sticky than the white fondant, but is delicious.

COFFEE FONDANT.

1 pound Sugar.
2 drops Acetic Acid.
1 cup strong Coffee.

Follow the directions given for bon-bon cream.

FILLINGS FOR BON-BONS.

You may use fillings of any kind you are particularly fond of, but we will mention a few, so as to give you an idea of the different kinds, and will tell you how to use them later on. One of the finest fillings is composed of candied cherries and candied citron ground up together, or chopped very fine. If you should have a food grinder in the house, use that for this purpose; but if you have none, a chopping knife and bowl will answer the purpose. About two parts cherries and one part citron makes a fine combination, but you may use any proportion you wish. A small amount of candied orange peel ground with them, gives a peculiar flavor, which is liked by many Any kind of candied fruit, such as pears, plums, limes, or pineapple, ground very fine, make a nice filling. Figs, after removing the hard part around the stem, then ground up alone or with a little orange peel added to them, make a very fine filling. In fact, most any fruit of this order, such as raisins or dates, will do, but they are not so nice as the French candied fruits. It is best to prepare quite an amount of these different fillings while you are at it, as they will keep indefinitely without drying out, if put in a small jar of some kind with a tight cover on it. By doing this you will save a great deal of time and trouble, as your fillings are always prepared for you, and any time you wish to make a few bon-bons it will not be necessary to stop and grind your fillings.

Almond paste, which may be purchased at any bakery where they make macaroons, makes a very fine filling. It is all prepared when you buy it, and is to be worked in with the bon-bon cream the same as the chopped fruit. It is not expensive, and will also keep for a long time in a closed jar.

Ground pecans, English walnuts, hickory nuts, and Brazil nuts (sometimes called nigger toes), are about the best nuts to use for centers. It is also best to grind as many of these at a time as possible, as they will not spoil in cold weather. Fresh grated cocoanut may also be used, by working it in your bon-bon cream, for centers of cocoanut bon-bons; but we will tell you a much nicer way to make a cocoanut filling later on. Any bon-bon with the ground fruit center in it will keep fresh much longer than one in which you use only nuts. You will find that, if you put enough ground fruit in the centers, after your bon-bons are a week or ten days old, they are very soft and sticky inside, which is caused by the fruit sweating, and are delicious. Some people will wonder how you were ever able to get a center so soft.

HOW TO MAKE BON-BONS.

As nearly all bon-bons are made in the same manner, we will explain very carefully how to make one or two kinds, and after you understand the idea, you may make any shape, color, or flavor you desire. We will now tell you how to make pink, rose flavor bon-bons, in several shapes. Take a small amount of bon-bon cream, and from one third to one half as much ground cherries and citron (see article on Bon-Bon Fillings) as you have bon-bon cream, and with your hands work and knead them well together. This center, especially, is very sticky, and you will be obliged to work enough XXXX or confectioners’ sugar into it to make it stiff enough so that you can mould it up into different shapes easily. Right here we will say that in getting the XXXX sugar, do not allow them to give you XXX sugar, as it is a little gritty, while XXXX sugar is as smooth as flour. Of course, if you cannot obtain XXXX sugar the other will do, but is not so nice.

After you commence kneading this bon-bon cream and fruit, add a little sugar at a time, knead it in well and as soon as you get the mass so it feels a little dry, it is ready to mould up. You must use a little judgment in doing this, as you only need work sufficient sugar into it to make it stiff enough so that the centers will retain their shape after being moulded. If you wish any flavoring, put a few drops into it while you are working in the sugar. In centers where you use only chopped nuts, and no fruit of any kind, it is not necessary to use much, if any sugar at all, as the nuts have a tendency to make the cream work up dry. Sometimes bon-bon cream is stickier than it is at other times, so if necessary use the sugar, but never use any other than XXXX or confectioners’ sugar.

When worked sufficiently, cut off a piece and roll it with your hands into a long roll about as large around as a cigar; then cut in small pieces about one half inch long and roll each of them in your hands until they are perfectly round, then lay them on a piece of wax paper, and when they are all moulded, set them in a cool place for a while until they harden a little. We advise rolling out in this manner before cutting up to roll into balls, as it will enable you to get them all about the same size. If you find upon starting to roll them into balls that it is still too sticky, you must knead in a little more sugar.

Do not get the centers too large, as your bon-bons are much prettier when small. Bear this in mind in all bon-bon making, as most amateurs have a tendency to make their bon-bons and chocolates too large, and the more dainty your candy looks, both as to size and color, the better it tastes. After making part of them round, take the remainder of the mass and pat it out into a flat piece about one-half inch thick and cut it up in strips seven-eighths inch wide; then take each strip and cut it into pieces about one-half inch wide and here you have oblong centers seven-eighths by one-half inch, which are for the centers of bon-bons, on top of which you put a nut. Remember, after these centers are coated they will be quite a little larger than this, and you must try and keep them small enough so that after they are coated, the half of an English walnut will almost completely cover the top of them. Of course if you use a smaller nut for the top, your bon-bons will necessarily be larger than the nut, and still they will not be large enough to look bad. The ones upon the top of which you use the half of a pistachio nut, must necessarily be considerably larger than the nut. We give you these little details, as they improve the looks of your candy so much, and you will be able to make them to look pretty the first time, and not be obliged to experiment any in order to get the correct size. If you wish to use a pistachio nut on these, they are prettier if you cut these centers square, instead of oblong, making them about five-eighths or three-fourths inch each way.

Experience alone will teach you as to how much bon-bon cream it will be necessary to melt up in order to cover the centers you have moulded. Put your bon-bon cream in the double boiler with boiling water under it, keep it on the fire and stir continually, that is, do not let it stand over a few minutes at a time without stirring, and when it is melted, flavor with a few drops of rose flavoring and color a delicate pink with Damask Rose coloring (Burnett’s), by adding a little at a time until you have the desired shade. It will probably be necessary to add a few drops of cold water to your fondant while melting in order to make it thin enough. Add the water very sparingly, as it does not require much to thin it, and if you get too much in, your bon-bons will not harden for you after being coated, and neither will they, if the cream is not hot before dipping. Test it the same as you do center cream, by sticking your tongue to it, and you should not allow it to get as hot as you do the center cream. Practice alone will tell you about how thin it should be. You must have it so that when you dip the bon-bons out and lay them on wax paper, they will not stick to the dipping fork, but drop off readily, and as you lift the fork the cream will string out a little so that you may make any design you wish on the top. After dipping a a few, you will understand more about this and will have no trouble. As soon as thin enough, and colored and flavored, set the double boiler on your table, leaving it in the hot water to keep it warm. You must avoid sitting in a draught while coating these, as this cream hardens very quickly. Now pick up a center, and with the dipping fork in your other hand stir the cream thoroughly on one side to break the crust which forms on top, then drop in the center, push it under with the fork, then stick the fork underneath it so it will rest as near the end of the fork as possible, lift it up and scrape off most of the surplus cream hanging to it by drawing it over the edge of kettle, then quickly turn your fork over and lay the bon-bon on the wax paper, lift the fork, and with the cream that strings up with it, make the design on top, by twisting it in the form of a knot. Do this by moving your fork quickly in a circle. You will see by this, as you lift the bon-bon out of the cream, the side, or bottom rather, which you scrape off on the edge of the kettle, is the top of the bon-bon after you turn your fork over and lay it on the paper; so do not scrape it off too much, as it is necessary to leave a little cream hanging there in order to have some lift up with the fork with which to make the design on top.

This whole operation, after you set the cream over on the table to commence dipping, must be done very rapidly, and you will soon learn to drop these centers in, lift them out, lay them on the paper, and make designs, with almost one continual motion, which is very necessary, as the bon-bons harden in a few seconds after lifting them out of the cream, and must be dropped from the fork very quickly or they will stick. You must stir this cream with a spoon occasionally while dipping, and it is necessary each time you throw a center in, to break this crust with the dipping fork first. When your cream commences to thicken so that they do not drop readily from the fork, add a few drops of cold water and stir it in well, and continue the dipping. If you have had it off the stove for quite a while, it is better to set it back until the water under it boils again, then add a little cold water, take it off, and continue the dipping. In dropping these off the fork, press it down so that your bon-bon will touch the paper, when it will stick a little, and you can easily lift your fork up. On these pink bon-bons, a little of the finely chopped pistachio nuts sprinkled over them, and pressed down slightly so that it will stick, makes them look very pretty. This must be done immediately after lifting the fork as they will harden in a few seconds.

In coating the oblong centers, when you lift the fork, simply allow the cream that comes up with it to drop back on the bon-bon, then quickly lay on the half of an English walnut and press it down a very little. These bon-bons do not stick to this wax paper a particle and are set perfectly in a few moments after dipping them. They should be perfectly smooth all over, and very glossy, and will be like this if you have your bon-bon cream the right consistency when dipping them.

All bon-bons are coated in the same manner, and after you have tried it once or twice it will be very easy, and you will be able to dip a great many of them in a few moments, as you must necessarily work rapidly after your cream is once melted up. These are the swellest bon-bons made, and putting the chopped fruit and nuts in the center in this manner, and dipping them as directed, seals them up perfectly air-tight, and consequently they will keep for quite a while. You may use any combination of nuts or fruit that you wish in these centers, but always put in enough of either in order to have them taste sufficiently. We will now give a few ideas in regard to making other colored and flavored bon-bons, but if you have any ideas of your own you may adopt them.

Many candy makers make fine cream, but spoil it when melting the same because no matter how good the cream is, it can be spoiled when a little too much heat is applied. It is also a great mistake to reheat the cream more than once without getting it too watery and it will then dry out in a short time.

There is no dipping cream made that will keep the gloss for any length of time.

Do not attempt to make bon-bons at night, because it is difficult to get the colors the right shade. A color may look dainty at night, but be hideous in day time, especially yellow and lavender. Colors and flavors should be delicate as the taste of the candy seems to improve with its appearance. When adding colors always add a little at a time. More may be added but none can be taken out.

You will find from experience that it will always be necessary to melt more fondant than you will need to coat the centers you have made, because you must have a certain amount in the double boiler in order to dip them successfully. As you get to the bottom you will find it thickens very quickly and you will have to add more water. Do not get into the habit of adding too much water while dipping the bon-bons as it will spoil their looks; it is liable to dilute the coating so that it will not be hard enough.

If you have melted too much it is not wasted. Have some shelled nuts ready and coat them after you have finished with the centers, or flavor the remaining cream with either peppermint or wintergreen, as these flavors will kill any flavor that you have used. With a spoon, drop it on wax paper in wafers.

If, after you have centers for chocolate coating and do not wish to coat all that you have made, they may be dipped in melted fondant the same as any other center.

If bon-bons become soft when brought into a warm room, it indicates that too much water was used when dissolving the fondant, or it was not heated enough.

LEMON FIG BON-BONS.

Use chopped figs to mix with bon-bon cream for centers, and cut them oblong shape and coat with bon-bon cream, flavored with lemon and colored yellow. You will find Burnett’s Golden Yellow Paste makes a beautiful color. It is better to make this color in the daytime, as it is very difficult to get the desired shade at night. You must get your coating a pretty deep shade of yellow or it will not show up well on the bon-bons. Either an English walnut, or pecan, are very pretty on this bon-bon, and be sure to put it on just after you drop it from the fork, in order to have it stick.

NECTAR BON-BONS.

Make same as others, using chopped pecans with bon-bon cream for the centers, and flavor slightly with nectar while kneading it. Roll it into small balls and coat with bon-bon cream colored pale green, and flavored with nectar.

VIOLET BON-BONS.

Use any kind of chopped nuts to mix with bon-bon cream for centers, flavor slightly with violet if you have it, if not you may use nectar or vanilla. Make them round and coat with violet colored and flavored bon-bon cream. You will find when you are using violet colored cream with which to dip them, that by adding a small amount of the Damask Rose coloring to the cream after you get it a good violet shade, it will make them much prettier, as the violet shade will be a little brighter, more on the lavender order.

PISTACHIO BON-BONS.

Use almond paste mixed with bon-bon cream for the centers, and do not use any flavoring, as the almond paste flavors it. Use about one-third as much paste as you do cream, in making the centers. It will be necessary to use more XXXX sugar in these than it is in the ones with nuts in, to enable you to get them stiff enough to retain their shape after cutting them in squares. Cut them in small squares as directed in first bon-bon recipe, and as soon as they dry a little, coat them in plain white bon-bon cream, flavored slightly with either pistachio or almond flavor, and put one-half of a pistachio nut or small piece of angelique on the top. Of course you may use any kind of nut on these if you have not the ones mentioned, but the green and white make a very pretty combination. These bon-bons are very fine and will keep for a long time. This same center, coated with bon-bon cream which has been colored a Mandarin Yellow (Burnett’s), makes a very pretty bon-bon.

COATED CHERRIES.

Take as large and as round candied cherries as possible, and coat them in the same manner as you do the other centers, using a rose colored and flavored bon-bon cream for the coating and sprinkle chopped pistachio nuts on top, or leave them plain if desired. These makes a delicious bon-bon, but will not keep as long as the others, as the coating becomes hard in a few days, whereas it does not on the ones with the chopped fruit or nut centers.

ORIENTAL JELLY OR FIG PASTE BON-BONS.

Buy some fig paste, or Oriental jelly, as it is similar, at any candy store, cut it in small pieces, and coat with any desired color or flavor of bon-bon cream you wish, or you may leave the pieces large and coat them, and when they are cool cut them in two with a sharp knife, and they make a very pretty bon-bon.

MARSHMALLOW BON-BONS.

Buy some marshmallows, as that is much cheaper and easier than making them, and coat with bon-bon cream same as other centers, and unless you are able to buy the very small marshmallows, it is best to cut them in pieces before coating them. You may color the coating in any manner you wish. Blanch a few almonds, split them open, and put a half of one on the top of each bon-bon as soon as dipped, putting the flat side of the nut up, or you may leave them perfectly plain if you prefer to.

MAPLE BON-BONS.

Mix chopped nuts with either maple or white bon-bon cream for the centers, cut in oblong pieces, and coat with maple bon-bon cream, putting either a half of a pecan or English walnut on top of each. In melting your cream for the coating, it requires no coloring or flavoring but simply use it just as it is, and this really makes the finest bon-bon there is made.

COCOANUT BON-BONS.

Mix fresh grated cocoanut with bon-bon cream for your centers, mould in balls, and coat same as others. Flavor and color coating as you wish, and as a great many prefer these and other cocoanut bon-bons coated with chocolate colored coating, you may do that by simply adding enough melted chocolate to your bon-bon cream after it is melted up to give it the desired color. These make a very nice bon-bon, but I will tell you later on how to make a cocoanut center which is far ahead of these, but a little more trouble.

NUT BON-BONS.

Take either English walnuts, pecans, or Brazil nuts, and coat them with bon-bon cream same as you do the other centers. You may use any flavor or color coating desired, but I think that the lemon flavored coating tastes the best on these nuts. Of course, if you use maple cream with which to coat nuts, they are much nicer.

Dates, with the seeds removed and then rolled up together, coated in the same manner, are very nice, and if you take a sharp knife and cut them in two diagonally after coating them, they look very pretty.

CREAM WAFERS.

All kinds of cream wafers, such as peppermint, wintergreen, chocolate, and also maple, are made from bon-bon cream. Take the desired amount of fondant and put it in the double boiler, set it on the fire, keep stirring it, and when it has melted, flavor and color as you wish.

If you make peppermint wafers, leave it just a plain white. In wintergreen wafers, add a small amount of damask rose coloring, to make them a delicate pink.

If your cream is not thin enough to drop off the spoon readily, you may add a few drops of water, then drop out on wax paper in small patties about as large as a half dollar. In dropping them out, if you have no funnel, you may use the spoon with which you stirred the cream, and try to take just enough each time on the spoon to make one wafer, but in case you dip out too much, when the wafer is the desired size, quickly turn your spoon up, in order to stop its running, and continue dropping them until your cream is too stiff to drop, when you may add a few more drops of water, stir in well and continue as before.

If you use a funnel, heat it with hot water; push the stick down into the funnel until it fits the opening tightly, because the stick keeps the melted fondant from running through. Pour the heated cream into the funnel; hold the funnel over the wax paper and with one hand raise the stick a trifle; let enough cream run out to form a wafer; push the stick into the opening immediately and continue to drop the wafers in the same manner. You must work rapidly, for the cream gets chilled in a few seconds.

These wafers are very easily made as you see, and by always having your bon-bon cream made up as we directed you, it is only a few minutes work to make up quite a number of these wafers.

In making chocolate wafers, simply add enough finely chopped chocolate to give them a good color, and finish same as the others.

Always lay the wax paper on wood, to prevent white spots in the wafers.

COCOANUT CENTERS.

½ lb. sugar.
½ lb. glucose.
¾ lb. shredded cocoanut.
½ pint water.
1 teaspoonful vanilla extract.

Put sugar, glucose, and water in the kettle, set on the fire, stir until it boils, wash down the sides of the kettle with a damp cloth, put in the thermometer and cook to 238, then set off stove and stir in the cocoanut, and a small lump of butter about the size of a hickory nut, and the vanilla flavoring. If by pressing your hand down on the batch it does not stick much, it is about right, but if it should stick, simply work in a little more cocoanut. The idea is, that it is necessary to have this to the consistency where it may be moulded into balls; and of course if it is not thick enough, add cocoanut until it is. The amount of glucose you use in this prevents it from sugaring. As soon as you have mixed it thoroughly, scrape it out of the kettle and spread on slab or platter until it gets cold; then mould it into balls, lay them on wax paper, and allow to stand for a while until they dry off a little, then coat with either bon-bon cream the same as other bon-bons, or with pure chocolate the same as other chocolate dipping is done. If you do not get these centers too stiff, they sweat a great deal after being coated, and become very soft and sticky inside, and for anyone liking cocoanut, they make a fine piece of candy.

This center is not liable to turn to sugar for you, but if it should happen to grain a little, you will know that you have stirred it too much, when adding the cocoanut.

COCOANUT KISSES.

1½ lb. sugar.
½ pint water.
1 fresh grated cocoanut.
½ lb. bon-bon cream.
1 teaspoonful vanilla flavor.

Put the sugar and water on the fire, stir until it commences boiling, but just before it boils, wash down the sides of the kettle with a damp cloth and cold water, then add the grated cocoanut, and continue stirring until it has boiled a little while, when you test it by lifting the paddle out, and if by taking a little of the candy between your thumb and forefinger it is good and sticky, and strings out when you pull your fingers apart, it has cooked enough. This is about the only method of testing it, and you need have no fear of spoiling it, as it is a very easy candy to make as you will see.

When it is cooked to the right consistency, set off the fire and add the bon-bon cream, and stir this through the batch thoroughly until it is dissolved, and the batch becomes creamy looking and commences to stiffen up. In case it does not get stiff enough to dip out as directed later on, it is because it was not cooked quite enough, and you may overcome this by simply adding a little more bon-bon cream. Add the vanilla extract when creaming it. Now take an ordinary table fork, and commence at the edge and take up a small quantity of the candy on the fork, and lay it on wax paper, and as you lift the fork up from it, the same as bon-bons, the cocoanut will string up to some extent and make them rough looking, which improves their looks. As to the amount to take out on the fork each time, will say that you should take enough to make the kisses about the size of your thumb, as they will be oblong in shape, when dipping them out with an ordinary fork in this manner. They should retain their shape when dropped on the wax paper, but if they do not do so, simply work in a little more bon-bon cream. Always dip it from around the edge, as it gets harder there first. After dropping out about one-third of the batch in this manner, color the remainder a pink, and flavor with strawberry, but work it in well with the paddle, and in case the batch is a little too thick by this time, you may add a very little cold water to thin it. Now dip them out the same as before, until you have about half of it remaining, then into this remainder pour some melted chocolate, which you must have ready, add a little more vanilla, work it in well, and dip out the same as before. You now see you have three different colored and flavored kisses from the same batch, and these different flavors do not interfere with each other by putting them in as directed, as the strawberry kills the vanilla, and in the last instance the chocolate kills the strawberry. You may, if you prefer, make the whole batch one flavor, but you have more of a variety if you make them in this manner. You may use the ordinary desiccated cocoanut, which comes put up in packages if you wish, but if you use fresh grated cocoanut, you will find they are much nicer and will keep longer. While it is not necessary, it improves them greatly, by adding the well beaten whites of two eggs to the batch when you put in the bon-bon cream, and working it in at the same time. This has a tendency to make them a little lighter, smoother, and more fluffy.

If your batch gets too hard to drop out nicely before you have finished, it indicates that you either have cooked it too long, or you did not work fast enough after you had mixed in the bon-bon cream. But the chances are that you did not work fast enough.

VANILLA FUDGE.

2½ lbs. sugar.
½ lb. glucose.
1 quart cream or fresh milk.
1 tablespoonful butter.
1 teaspoonful vanilla.

Put the sugar, glucose, cream (or milk) and the butter in a kettle large enough to allow for its boiling up, set on the fire and stir constantly, and when it comes to a good boil put in the thermometer, see that the bulb is covered all the time, and cook to 236 or 238, being careful to slide the thermometer around the kettle occasionally, and stir where it stood or it will stick. Then set off the fire, and cream (or rub) it with a spoon against the sides of your kettle, until you see it just commences to grain a little; add the vanilla, and it is then ready to pour out, and it does not hurt this any to scrape the kettle when pouring.

Most people pour their fudge into a buttered platter, but the best way is to take a shallow square pan, or make a square place on your slab with the iron bars, and lay into it or into the pan, some old wax paper that has been used several times for dropping purposes, and pour the candy directly on it, and as soon as your fudge has set you can very easily lift the paper out with the fudge, and it may be peeled off without any trouble; in fact you may use any kind of a heavy paper with a gloss on it, in place of the wax paper, and you will find that this fudge will not stick to it at all. After you pour the fudge out, it should be set in fifteen or twenty minutes at the most, and then if you will take a knife and mark it into squares any size desired, it will readily break wherever marked, which is easier than cutting it up. If you use a glossy paper instead of a wax paper upon which to pour it, it is best not to allow it to stand very long after it sets, before removing the paper; but in using wax paper you will have no trouble at all with it sticking. A shallow pan, about nine by fifteen inches, will hold a batch this size, and make it about the right thickness.

If the fudge gets sticky instead of creamy and is soft, cook it two degrees higher the next time. You may dilute condensed milk with one-half water, which may also be used instead of cream, but in using sweet cream you get a nice rich fudge, and there is not as much danger of its curdling.

CHOCOLATE FUDGE.

Use the recipe for Vanilla fudge, and make it in the same manner, but do not add your chocolate until you take it from the stove and commence creaming it. Then add enough finely grated or chopped chocolate to give it a good chocolate color, also add the tablespoon of vanilla to it, and you will find that you have a much finer chocolate fudge than you would have by cooking the chocolate in it, as most people do, and also, they generally put too much chocolate in their fudge; so only put enough in it to give it a good color. As this is very hot when you put the chocolate in, it will readily melt, and work through the batch while creaming it.

BLACK WALNUT FUDGE.

Make a batch of vanilla fudge, and when it is creamed and just about to be poured out of the kettle, add a large handful of black walnut meats, stir them through, then finish just the same as the vanilla fudge.

You may also use any kind of nuts or candied fruit you have, in the same manner, but black walnuts are considered the best by the majority of persons.

MAPLE FUDGE.

1¾ pounds white sugar.
¾ pound maple sugar.
½ pound glucose.
1 quart cream or fresh milk.
1 tablespoonful butter.

Put all this in a kettle and follow the directions for making vanilla fudge, except be sure to cook this to 238. This makes a fine eating piece of candy, if you add a handful of pecans or English walnuts, just before you pour it out. If you use maple syrup, as in making maple bon-bon cream, take out a piece of glucose about the size of a whole English walnut, (not more), before you start to cook.

OPERA FUDGE.

3½ pounds sugar.
1 quart cream.
⅜ teaspoonful cream of tartar.

Put sugar and cream in kettle, set on hot fire, stir until it commences to boil, then add the cream of tartar, and put in the thermometer, and stir constantly but very gently until it is cooked to 238, being sure to move the thermometer very often with paddle, and stir underneath it, to prevent it from sticking; then pour on slab, moistened a little previously, but do not scrape out the kettle, and allow it to stand until it is perfectly cold, then cream or turn it exactly as directed for bon-bon cream, and when it works up into a hard ball, cover with a damp cloth for about thirty to forty minutes, when you will see that it has sweat enough so that it may be taken in the hands and moulded up in any way desired, or may be sliced down with the knife, cut into squares, and eaten at once if you wish. If you wish you may add a good teaspoonful of vanilla while creaming it, and thus have a vanilla fudge. If you wish to make a chocolate fudge out of this, as soon as you remove the damp cloth, take part or all of it, and work into it, with your hands, by kneading it, enough melted chocolate to color it well, then pat it out into a thin cake and put it into a small box cover previously lined with wax paper, smoothing it out to about three-fourths of an inch thick, then set it away for several hours to harden a little. To remove it, simply turn the lid over, letting it fall out, and then peel the wax paper from it, and cut it up in small squares. Take the remainder, after making part of it chocolate, and into it work sufficient chopped nuts or chopped cherries and citron to show up well, and if desired, color it pink and flavor with rose, and mould up in the same manner as directed for chocolate fudge. As you see, you may make this fudge any color or flavor you desire; but the ones we have mentioned you will find about the best. You have probably noticed that this fudge is made about the same as bon-bon cream, only with this you do not cover and steam it, and also must stir it constantly but gently, or it will sugar for you. You will also notice that it takes longer to cream up than it does bon-bon cream, and is very stiff when you commence turning it, but do not notice that, nor get discouraged, because if you cooked it to the required degree, it will not fail to come out all right for you. You will find that fudge will keep fresh for quite a while, if you put it in a can or jar with a tight cover, and keep it in a cool dry place.

If the fudge sugars for you, you will know that you have either stirred it too much, started to cream it when too warm, or disturbed it while cooling; try adding a pinch more of the cream of tartar in your next batch.

Don’t forget to make the correct allowance, in case your thermometer does not register 212 in boiling water.

If it should sugar and not cream up into a hard ball, it must not be used for this fudge again, but add a little cream to it, also a small amount of glucose, and make the plain fudge out of it.

Don’t have the slab too wet when pouring out this fudge, but just moist, as it is liable to throw your batch back a few degrees.

BROWNIES.

Use the recipe for “Opera Fudge,” adding a tablespoonful of vanilla extract when starting to cream the batch. Follow the directions for making opera fudge exactly until you have poured the batch on the slab to cool, and when it is nearly creamed, pour on some melted chocolate and continue to cream until the batch sets. When it sets in a hard ball cover it with a damp cloth and allow it to sweat for thirty or forty minutes. Knead it with the hands until it is smooth, or if the chocolate, which you added while creaming it, did not mix thoroughly, keep working it with the hands until it is all mixed, adding more melted chocolate if necessary; sufficient chocolate should be used to make it a nice brown color. Mould into balls at once, the size of a small nutmeg, and lay them on wax paper to dry a little, and then coat them in chocolate, and have someone lay a small round dragee on top of them immediately after being coated. This makes a swell topping piece for your Christmas boxes. You may also dip them all, or just about half of them, in chocolate bon-bon cream, as directed for dipping “Cocoanut Bon-bons,” only you may have to let these last centers, those to be dipped in the chocolate bon-bon cream, dry out a little longer than those to be dipped in the chocolate, for if very soft, they might break when being handled with the bon-bon fork. In making your Christmas candies it would be well for you to dip them this way and you will have a bigger assortment.

VANILLA CARAMELS.

2 pounds sugar.
1½ pounds glucose.
3 pints cream.
1 tablespoonful vanilla.

Put sugar, glucose and one pint of cream in the kettle, stir constantly before, and also after it commences boiling, until it will form in a soft ball when dropped in cold water. There is no exact degree necessary to which to cook this. Now add another pint of cream slowly, stir constantly and cook again to a soft ball, then slowly add the last pint of cream, and a piece of non-paraff about the size of a walnut, and cook again, being careful to stir all over the bottom of the kettle so that it will not stick, until it will form into a good firm ball in cold water, but not brittle, remembering that your caramels will be, when cold, the same consistency as this last ball, so you can get it just about as you wish. It is very unhandy to use a thermometer in making these, as they must be stirred continually from the time you put them on the stove until done. The non-paraff may be left out entirely if you wish, as that is simply put in to make them retain their shape after being cut up. In stirring it, do so very gently, but aim to cover the whole bottom of the kettle. If you stir it hard they might possibly sugar for you, and your only idea in stirring is to keep them from sticking. It is very essential to use glucose in order to make a good caramel. If you should overcook it and they are too brittle, or undercook it and they are too soft, the batch may be put back in the kettle with a little more milk or cream, and cooked again. If you have the iron bars we mentioned, grease your slab thoroughly and lay the bars on it so as to form a small square place. Then into your candy, just after taking it off the stove, stir in the vanilla, being careful not to stir it too much while adding this, but just enough to mix it in good, and pour on slab between the bars. Always make the square with the bars small enough as you will want your candy to fill it up level full in order to have your caramels the correct thickness, which should be about three-fourths of an inch. If you have not made the place large enough it is very easy to move one of the bars just a trifle in order to hold all your candy. But if you made the square too large, it is almost impossible to move the bars closer together after pouring your candy out. If you do not wish to use cream, you may use milk or part milk and part cream. If you use all milk add a little butter after the batch begins to boil. These caramels may also be made by simply using only two pints of cream or milk and cooking them twice, instead of three pints and cooking them three times, but are not so rich. If your batch should happen to grain and turn to sugar, put it back in the kettle with a little more glucose and another pint of cream or milk, stir over a slow fire to dissolve, then cook up as before. When these caramels are set or cold, mark them in perfect squares with a knife and one of the bars, then cut up with a large knife, in a sawing motion. If the milk curdles, do not stop stirring and set the batch off, but simply cook according to directions, and the curd will not show. These caramels should be wrapped in wax paper to prevent sticking together. The kettle may be scraped lightly, when pouring these caramels out.

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.

Use the recipe for vanilla caramels and, just after you add the last pint of cream, add enough grated chocolate to give it a good chocolate color, and finish the same, adding the vanilla. Have the chocolate grated before starting to cook.

STRAWBERRY CARAMELS.

These caramels are very fine, especially when coated with chocolate. Make same as the vanilla caramel, excepting, when the batch is removed from the fire, color a deep red and flavor with strawberry.

NUT CARAMELS.

Any kind of nuts may be used. Hickory, almond, filbert, English and black walnuts, are especially good. Chop the nuts up a little with a knife, which makes them look prettier when the caramels are cut, then add to the batch just before pouring on the slab.

MAPLE CARAMELS.

1 pound maple sugar.
1 pound white sugar.
1½ pounds glucose.
3 pints cream.

Follow the directions exactly as given for vanilla caramels.

FULL CREAM CARAMELS.

1 pound sugar.
1 pound glucose.
1 pint milk or cream.
1 pint condensed milk.
1 tablespoonful vanilla flavoring.

A pint can of unsweetened condensed milk, will cost you about ten cents, and can be purchased of most any grocer. Condensed milk is an absolute necessity in this kind of a caramel, for two reasons, namely: to get the peculiar flavor, and to make it hold together, so that it need not be wrapped, by which it is distinguished from the ordinary caramel. Mix the sweet milk or cream and the condensed milk before starting to cook, and in referring to this, we will simply use the word milk. Put the sugar, glucose and one pint of the milk in a kettle, stir and cook until it will form a soft ball when dropped in cold water; then continue stirring and add one-half pint of the remaining milk, pouring slowly, and cook up again until it forms a soft ball, then slowly add the remainder of the milk, being careful to stir all over the bottom of the kettle so that it will not stick, and cook again until it will form into a good firm ball in cold water, but not brittle, remembering that your caramels will be, when cold, the same consistency as this last ball, so you can get it just about as you wish. Then take it off the fire, stir in the vanilla and any kind of nuts you desire, and scrape it out of the kettle on a greased slab, between bars, as directed for making vanilla caramels. When cold, they may be cut up and either wrapped, or just laid side by side on a slightly greased plate. If you make these caramels to sell, it would be well to add a piece of non-paraff about the size of an English walnut, when starting to cook. You may also make this a chocolate caramel, by adding enough grated chocolate, when you add the last half-pint of cream, to give it a good chocolate color. Do not have your fire too hot when cooking these, as they will scorch very easily, and also, stir continually from the time you start, till it is off the fire.

MEXICAN GRAIN CARAMELS.

1 pound sugar.
1 pound glucose.
1 quart sweet milk or cream.
1 pound center cream.
1 tablespoonful vanilla extract.

Put the sugar, glucose, and one-half of the cream in a kettle, stir and cook till it forms a soft ball when dropped in cold water, add one-half of the remaining cream, cook up again to a soft ball, then add the remaining half-pint of cream, stir and cook till it forms a good hard ball in cold water. Set off the stove, add the center cream and the vanilla, and stir in good. Rub the batch against the sides of the kettle with the paddle, until it gets pretty thick and grains, then pour out on a greased slab between bars, and let harden. It does not hurt to scrape out the kettle in making these caramels. After these caramels are hard or set, cut up with a sharp knife, by drawing it through the batch, instead of sawing as in other caramels, and after they stand a few hours to dry, after being cut, they may be piled up on a plate, as they will not stick together.

TAFFY.

2 pounds sugar.
1 pound glucose.
⅔ pint water.

Put all this on hot fire, stir till it commences to boil, wipe down sides of kettle with a damp cloth, cover and steam, put in thermometer and cook to 260. Then pour on greased slab, with bars around the edge to keep it from running off, and just as soon as it commences to cool or stiffen up a little, lift up the edges and fold toward center, and continue doing this until it is cool enough to handle, then pull on the hook until it is snow white. If you wish it vanilla, flavor by pouring the vanilla over it while on the hook, a little at a time, until you have it highly flavored. It is much easier to pull taffy on a hook and also improves it greatly. We have told you about the hook in the item regarding “tools.”

HOW TO PULL TAFFY ON A HOOK.

In pulling candy on a hook, first get it up in a ball on the slab, after it has cooled, lay it on the hook and pull it down as far as possible with both hands, then catch hold of the end with one hand, and with the other hand take hold of the batch about two thirds of the way up toward the hook, and then throw the part between your hands up over the hook with a quick motion, then pull batch down again and continue in this manner until it is very white. It is best to pour the flavoring on it when about half pulled, and it will work through the batch by the time it is finished.

Use a little corn starch on the hands quite often while pulling any kind of taffy, to keep them from sticking to the taffy.

The Art of Home Candy Making, with Illustrations