1

Harleian Border:
Montague Style; Harleian Style; Aldine Style

A
MANUAL
OF THE
ART OF BOOKBINDING:
CONTAINING
FULL INSTRUCTIONS IN THE DIFFERENT BRANCHES OF
FORWARDING, GILDING, AND FINISHING.
ALSO,
The Art of Marbling Book-Edges and Paper.
THE WHOLE DESIGNED FOR
THE PRACTICAL WORKMAN, THE AMATEUR, AND THE
BOOK-COLLECTOR.
BY
JAMES B. NICHOLSON.

PHILADELPHIA:

HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.,

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS,

810 Walnut Street.

1878.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by
JAS. B. NICHOLSON,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

STEREOTYPED BY L. JOHNSON & CO.
PHILADELPHIA.

PREFACE.

The progress of the Art of Bookbinding has made nearly all the works written upon the subject obsolete; their descriptions no longer apply to the methods practised by the best workmen. Throughout this work, the opinions and remarks of other writers have been adopted without alteration, unless they came in contact with practical knowledge. Every thing that would not bear that test has been rejected, and in lieu thereof those modes of operation described that the young binder will have to learn and practise if he desires to emulate the skill of the best artists.

The plan of the work is taken from "Arnett's Bibliopegia;" and every thing given in that work that has any approach to utility will be found in these pages. It was at first intended merely to revise that production; but during the progress of revision so much was rejected that it was deemed better to pass under notice at the same time the labours of others. "Cundall's Ornamental Art" has furnished the early incidents in the "Sketch of the Progress of the Art of Bookbinding;" and, as the best authority upon the subject, "Woolnough's Art of Marbling" has been adapted to this country. Mr. Leighton's "Suggestions in Design" has been laid under contribution in order to enrich the subject of Ornamental Art. The "London Friendly Finishers' Circulars" have been a valuable acquisition to the writer, and it is trusted will make this work equally so to the young finisher. "Cowie's Bookbinders' Manual," "Arnett's School of Design," "Gibb's Hand-book of Ornament," and "Scott's Essay on Ornamental Art," in addition to those acknowledged in the body of the work, have supplied some valuable hints.

It is hoped that this volume will prove useful to those forming libraries, by imparting correct information upon subjects that to the book-collector are important, and that its tendencies will be to increase and strengthen a love for the art.

J. B. N.

Philadelphia, 1856.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

SKETCH OF THE PROGRESS OF BOOKBINDING.

The earliest records of Bookbinding that exist prove that the art has been practised for nearly two thousand years. In past ages, books were written on long scrolls of parchment or papyrus, and were rolled up and fastened with a thong which was made of coloured leather and often highly ornamented. These scrolls were usually attached to one, or, occasionally, two rollers of wood or ivory, or sometimes of gold, much as our large maps are now mounted, and the bosses at the end of the rollers were frequently highly decorated. This decoration may be called the first step toward Ornamental Art applied to the exterior of books.

A learned Athenian, named Phillatius, to whom his countrymen erected a statue, at length found out a means of binding books with glue. The sheets of vellum or papyrus were gathered two or four together, sewn much in the same way as at the present day; and then, in order to preserve these sheets, there came, as a matter of course, a covering for the book.

The probability is that the first book-covers were of wood—plain oaken boards, perhaps; then, as books in those days were all in manuscript, and very valuable, carved oak bindings were given to those which were the most decorated within.

To cover the plain wooden board with vellum or leather would, in the course of years, be too apparent an improvement to be neglected; and specimens of books so bound, of the great antiquity of which there are undoubted proofs, exist at the present day.

There is reason to believe that the Romans carried the Art of Binding to considerable perfection. Some of the public offices had books called Dyptichs,[*] in which their acts were written. The binding of one of these in carved wood is thus described:—"Seated in the centre of each board is a consul, holding in one hand a baton, and in the other, upraised, a purse, as if in the act of throwing it to some victor in the games. Above these are miniature portraits, various other ornaments, and an inscription; below, on one board, are two men leading out horses for the race, and beneath them a group, with a ludicrous representation of two other men, exhibiting their endurance of pain by allowing crabs to fasten on their noses." A small print of an ivory dyptich of the fifth century, in Mr. Arnett's "Books of the Ancients," may be consulted as a specimen of the kind of ornament then adopted. An old writer says, that about the time of the Christian era the books of the Romans were covered with red, yellow, green, and purple leather, and decorated with gold and silver.

If we pass on to a few centuries later, we find that the monks were almost the only literati. They wrote chiefly on subjects of religion, and bestowed the greatest pains upon the internal and external decorations of their books. In the thirteenth century some of the gospels, missals, and other service-books for the Greek and Roman churches, were ornamented with silver and gold, apparently wrought by the hammer; sometimes they were enamelled and enriched with precious stones, and pearls of great value. Carved oak figures of the Virgin, or the Infant Saviour, or of the Crucifixion, were also the frequent adornments of the outside covers. One of these ancient relics is thus described by the librarian of Henry VIII.

"All I have to do is to observe, that this book (which the more I have look'd upon the more I have always admired) hath two thick boards, each about an inch in thickness, for its covers, and that they were joined with the book by large leather thongs, which boards are now by length of time become very loose. Tho' I have seen a vast number of old books and oftentimes examined their covers, yet I do not remember I ever saw boards upon any of them of so great thickness as these. This was the manner of Binding, it seems, of those times, especially if the books were books of extraordinary value, as this is. 'Twas usual to cut Letters in the Covers, and such letters were the better preserv'd by having them placed in some hollow part, which might easily be made if the boards were pretty thick. I suppose, therefore, that even the copies of Gregory's Pastoral that were given to Cathedral Churches by King Alfred had such thick covers also, that these by the Æstals might be fix'd the better. What makes me think so is, that the outside of one of the covers of this book is made hollow, and there is a rude sort of figure upon a brass plate that is fastened within the hollow part, which figure I take to have been designed for the Virgin Mary, to whom the Abbey was dedicated. Over it there was once fastened another much larger plate, as is plain from the Nails that fixed it and from some other small indications now extant,—and this 'tis likely was of silver, and perhaps there was an anathema against the Person that should presume to alienate it, engraved upon it—together with the Name of the Person (who it may be was Roger Poure) that was the Donor of the Book. This will make it to have been nothing else but an Æstal, such a one (tho' not so valuable) as was fastened upon Gregory's Pastoral. But this I leave to every man's judgment."[†]

At a later period we find on the binding of books gold and silver ornaments of very beautiful design, enclosing precious stones of great variety; carved ivory tablets let into framework of carved oak; rich-coloured velvets, edged with morocco, with bosses, clasps, and corners of solid gold; white vellum stamped in gold and blind tooling; and morocco and calf covers inlaid with various colours and adorned in every conceivable way. This was at the end of the fourteenth and in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the love of Art was universal, in the land where Michael Angelo, and Raffaelle, and Da Vinci produced their great works, and where, under the auspices of the Medici, the Art of Bookbinding as well as all other arts was encouraged.

Mr. Dibdin, in his "Bibliographical Decameron," to which we are much indebted, has given an account of the library of Corvinus, King of Hungary, who died at Buda about the year 1490. This library consisted of about thirty thousand volumes, mostly manuscripts of the Greek and Latin poets and historians, and was contained in large vaulted galleries, in which, among other works of art, were two fountains, one of marble and the other of silver. The binding of the books were mostly of brocade, protected with bosses and clasps of gold and silver; and these, alas! were the subsequent cause of the almost entire destruction of the library; for, when the city of Buda was taken by assault, in 1526, the Turkish soldiers tore the precious volumes from their covers for the sake of the ornaments that were upon them.

The general use of calf and morocco binding seems to have followed the invention of printing. There are many printed books, still in good preservation, that were bound in calf with oaken boards at the end of the fifteenth and beginning of the sixteenth centuries. These are mostly stamped with gold or blind tools. The earliest of these tools generally represent figures, such as Christ, St. Paul, the Virgin, coats of arms, legends, and monograms, according to the contents of the book. Afterward attempts were made to produce pictures, but these were necessarily bad.

In England, the earliest binding with ornament was about the time of Henry VII., when we find the royal arms supported by two angels; the heraldic badge of the double rose and pomegranate, the fleur-de-lys, the portcullis, the emblems of the evangelists, and small ornaments of grotesque animals. There are in the British Museum and in the Record Office many English bindings which undoubtedly were executed in the time of Henry VII.

In the reign of Henry VIII., about 1538, Grafton, the printer, undertook to print the great Bible. Not finding sufficient men or types in England, he went to Paris and there commenced it. He had not, however, proceeded far, before he was stopped in the progress of this heretical book; and he then took over to England the presses, type, printers, and bookbinders, and finished the work in 1539. The edition consisted of 2500 copies, one of which was set up in every church in England, secured to a desk by a chain. Within three years there were seven distinct editions of this work; which, supposing each edition to consist of the same number of copies as the first, would amount to 17,500 folio volumes. The binding, therefore, of so great a number of this book would alone give some importance to the Art of Bookbinding at that period. We know that Henry VIII. had many splendid volumes bound in velvet with gold bosses and ornaments. In his reign the stamping of tools in gold appears to have been first introduced in England; and some beautiful rolls, probably from Holbein's designs, were used as well on the sides as on the gilded edges of books still in existence.

In the reign of Elizabeth some exquisite bindings were done in embroidery. The queen herself used to work covers with gold and silver thread, spangles, and coloured silk, for Bibles and other devotional books which she presented to her maids of honour and her friends. From these brilliant external decorations, many of them entirely inappropriate for a book, we turn to a purer taste, the exercise of which will be found to reside within the peculiar limits of the Bookbinder's Art.

We return to Continental binding, and pass to the time of the ever-famous Jean Grolier. This nobleman was the first to introduce lettering upon the back; and he seems to have taken especial delight in having the sides of his books ornamented with very beautiful and elaborate patterns, said to have been drawn by his own hand. Many of them exist at the present day, either original Groliers or copies. Books from his library are eagerly sought for. All Grolier's books were bound in smooth morocco or calf, the pattern being formed of intersected line-work, finished by hand with a fine one-line fillet and gouges to correspond, with the occasional introduction of a conventional flower. Sometimes also the patterns were inlaid with morocco of different colours; and it is our opinion that no style of book-ornamentation has been since introduced that is worthy of entirely superseding the Grolier, a specimen of which will be given when treating on style. Very many of the Chevalier's volumes have the Latin inscription "Johanni Grolierii et amicorum" at the bottom, signifying that Grolier wished his books to be used by his friends as well as by himself. Connoisseurs rejoice when they meet with a work from the library of Maioli, a disciple of Grolier, or those of Diana of Poictiers, the mistress of Henry II., and whose books, in consequence of her influence and taste, are elegantly bound. It is supposed that the bindings for Diana of Poictiers were designed by Petit Bernard. They were bound in morocco of all colours, and usually ornamented with the emblems of the crescent and bow and quiver.

Among the earliest French binders must be mentioned Padeloup, Derome, and De Seuil. Pope celebrates De Seuil in one of his poems. Derome's plain morocco bindings are excellent; they are sewn on raised bands, are firm and compact, and the solid gilding upon the edges is worthy of commendation; his dentelle borders are fine, but unfortunately he was not careful of the trenchant steel. Padeloup's tooling or ornaments consist chiefly of small dots, and the forms he invented are elegant. When met with in good state, they look like gold lace upon the sides and backs of the books.

The bindings of books which belonged to De Thou are highly prized. He possessed a magnificent library, mostly bound in smooth deep-toned red, yellow, and green morocco. De Thou died in 1617. The Chevalier D'Eon used to bind books in a sort of Etruscan calf, the ornaments on which were copied from the Etruscan vases. The use of the black and red dyes have very frequently corroded the leather.

We must now resume our account of binding in England.

During the early part of the last century the general bindings were, with the exception of what was called Cambridge binding, (from being executed at that place,) of a depreciated character, many of them very clumsy, and devoid of taste in their ornament. Toward the middle some degree of attention had begun to be paid to the improvement of bindings, the general kinds being, up to the end of the eighteenth century, nearly all executed to one pattern,—viz.: the sides marbled, the backs coloured brown, with morocco lettering-pieces, and gilt.

The artists of the earlier part of the period of which we have been treating must have been numerous; but few are known. Two German binders, of the name of Baumgarten and Benedict, were of considerable note and in extensive employment in London during the early part of this century. The bindings of Oxford were also very good at this period. Who the distinguished parties at Oxford were has not been recorded; but a person of the name of Dawson, then living at Cambridge, has the reputation of being a clever artist, and may be pronounced as the binder of many of the substantial volumes still possessing the distinctive binding we have before referred to. Baumgarten and Benedict would, doubtless, be employed in every style of binding of their day, but the chief characteristics of their efforts are good substantial volumes in russia, with marbled edges.

To these succeeded Mr. John Mackinlay and two other Binders, named Kalthœber and Staggemier; but to Mackinlay may, perhaps, be attributed the first impulse given to the improvements which have been introduced into bindings. He was one of the largest and most creditable binders in London of the period of which we are treating. Several specimens of his, in public and private libraries, remain to justify the character given of him; and of the numerous artists that his office produced, many have since given evidence, by their work, that the lessons they received were of a high character. The specimens alluded to exhibit a degree of care, ingenuity, and skill, highly creditable to them as binders. Though well executed, they did not pay the time and attention devoted, in later times, to the finishing or gilding of their work, and it was not till Roger Payne exhibited the handiwork of the craft, that any decided impulse was given to the progress of the art, which has gone on, under able successors, from one improvement to another till there exists much doubt whether or no we have not now, so far as mechanical execution depends, arrived at perfection. About the year 1770 Roger Payne went to London, and, as his history is an epoch in the history of the art, we will devote some space to it.

The personal history of Roger Payne is one among the many of the ability of a man being rendered nearly useless by the dissoluteness of his habits. He stands an example to the young, of mere talent, unattended with perseverance and industry, never leading to distinction,—of great ability, clouded by intemperance and consequent indiscretion, causing the world only to regret how much may have been lost that might have been developed had the individual's course been different and his excellences directed so as to have produced the best results.

Roger Payne was a native of Windsor Forest, and first became initiated in the rudiments of the art he afterward became so distinguished a professor of, under the auspices of Mr. Pote, bookseller to Eton College. From this place he went to London, where he was first employed by Mr. Thomas Osborne, the bookseller, of Holborn, London. Disagreeing on some matters, he subsequently obtained employment from Mr. Thomas Payne, of the King's Mews, St. Martin's, who ever after proved a friend to him. Mr. Payne established him in business near Leicester Square, about the year 1769-70, and the encouragement he received from his patron, and many wealthy possessors of libraries, was such that the happiest results and a long career of prosperity might have been anticipated. His talents as an artist, particularly in the finishing department, were of the first order, and such as, up to his time, had not been developed by any other of his countrymen.

He adopted a style peculiarly his own, uniting a classical taste in the formation of his designs, and much judgment in the selection of such ornament as was applicable to the nature of the work it was to embellish. Many of these he made himself of iron, and some are yet preserved as curiosities and specimens of the skill of the man. To this occupation he may have been at times driven from lack of money to procure them from the tool-cutters; but it cannot be set down as being generally so, for, in the formation of the designs in which he so much excelled, it is but reasonable to suppose, arguing upon the practice of some others in later times, he found it readier and more expedient to manufacture certain lines, curves, &c. on the occasion. Be this as it may, he succeeded in executing binding in so superior a manner as to have no rival and to command the admiration of the most fastidious book-lover of his time. He had full employment from the noble and wealthy, and the estimation his bindings are still held in is a sufficient proof of the satisfaction he gave his employers. His best work is in Earl Spencer's library.

His reputation as an artist of the greatest merit was obscured, and eventually nearly lost, by his intemperate habits. He loved drink better than meat. Of this propensity an anecdote is related of a memorandum of money spent, and kept by himself, which runs thus:—

No wonder then, with habits like these, that the efforts of his patron, in fixing him, were rendered of no avail. Instead of rising to that station his great talent would have led to, he fell by his dissolute conduct to the lowest depths of misery and wretchedness. In his wretched working-room was executed the most splendid specimens of binding; and here on the same shelf were mixed together old shoes and precious leaves—bread and cheese, with the most valuable and costly of MSS. or early-printed books.

That he was characteristic or eccentric may be judged by what has been related of him. He appears to have also been a poet on the subject of his unfortunate propensity, as the following extract from a copy of verses sent with a bill to Mr. Evans, for binding "Barry on the Wines of the Ancients," proves.

"Homer the bard, who sung in highest strains

The festive gift, a goblet for his pains;

Falernian gave Horace, Virgil fire,

And Barley Wine my British Muse inspire.

Barley Wine first from Egypt's learned shore;

And this the gift to me of Calvert's store."

The following bill is, like himself, a curiosity:—

Roger commenced business in partnership with his brother Thomas Payne, and subsequently was in like manner connected with one Richard Weir, but did not long agree with either, so that separation speedily took place. He afterward worked under the roof of Mr. Mackinlay, but his later efforts showed that he had lost much of that ability he had been so largely endowed with. Pressed down with poverty and disease, he breathed his last in Duke's Court, St. Martin's Lane, on the 20th of November, 1797. His remains were interred in the burying-ground of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, at the expense of Mr. Thomas Payne, who, as before stated, had been his early friend, and who, for the last eight years of his life, had rendered him a regular pecuniary assistance both for the support of his body and the performance of his work.

Of the excellencies and defects of his bindings, Dr. Dibdin, in his "Bibliographer's Decameron," has thus recorded his opinion:—

"The great merit of Roger Payne lay in his taste—in his choice of ornaments, and especially in the working of them. It is impossible to excel him in these two particulars. His favourite colour was that of olive, which he called Venetian. In his lining, joints, and inside ornaments, our hero generally, and sometimes melancholily, failed. He was fond of what he called purple paper, the colour of which was as violent as its texture was coarse. It was liable also to change and become spotty, and as a harmonizing colour with olive it was odiously discordant. The joints of his books were generally disjointed, uneven, carelessly tooled, and having a very unfinished appearance. His backs are boasted of for their firmness. His work excellently forwarded—every sheet fairly and bona fide stitched into the back, which was afterward usually coated in russia; but his minor volumes did not open well in consequence. He was too fond of thin boards, which, in folios, produces an uncomfortable effect, from fear of their being inadequate to sustain the weight of the envelop."

Though Roger Payne's career had not been successful, so far as he was personally concerned, it had the effect of benefiting the whole race of English bookbinders. A new stimulus had been given to the trade, and a new and chastened style introduced among the more talented artists of the metropolis. The unmeaning ornaments we have before alluded to were discarded, and a series of classical, geometrical, and highly-finished designs adopted. The contemporaries of Roger—Kalthœber, Staggemier, Walther, Hering, Falkner, &c.—exerted themselves with a generous rivalry to execute the most approved bindings.

Mr. Mackenzie deserves to be mentioned with respect among modern binders. Charles Lewis, so highly eulogized by Mr. Dibdin, attained great celebrity, and his bindings are much prized. His style of ornament was very neat, the panels of the backs generally double-mitred, and the sides finished in a corresponding manner. Mr. Clarke deserves especial commendation; for tree-marbled calf he stands unrivalled, although Mr. Riviere has executed some beautiful specimens. Mr. Bedford also enjoys considerable reputation; but it is to Mr. Hayday that the leading position among the London artists is now generally assigned. His quaint old-fashioned morocco bindings are inimitable. Lady Willoughby's Diary has been extensively copied, but not equalled. His Bibles and Prayer Books are well forwarded; the edges are solidly gilt with gold of a very deep colour, while the finishing is rich and massive without being gaudy. A book in the library of J. W. King Eyton, Esq., bound by Hayday, is thus described:—

"The work is a large paper copy of the late Mr. Blakeway's 'Sheriffs of Shropshire,' in imperial folio, with the armorial bearings beautifully coloured. The binding is of blood-coloured morocco, extending an inch and a half all round the inside of the cover, on which is placed a bold but open border tooled in gold, forming a fine relief to the rest of the inside, which is in purple, elegantly worked all over in hexagons running into each other in the Venetian style. In each compartment is placed the lion rampant and fleur-de-lis alternately. The fly-leaves are of vellum, ornamented with two narrow gold lines, and the edges are tooled. The back consists of hexagons, inlaid with purple, containing the lion and fleur-de-lis aforesaid, but somewhat smaller than those in the interior. The design on the outside is a triumphal arch, occupying the entire side, highly enriched, with its cornices, mouldings, &c. executed in suitable small ornamental work; from its columns, (which are wreathed with laurel,) and other parts of the structure, are suspended the shields of the Sheriffs, seventy in number, the quarterings of which, with their frets, bends, &c., are curiously inlaid in different colours of morocco, and, with the ornamental parts of the bearings, have been blazoned with heraldic accuracy on both sides of the volume. When we state that more than 57,000 impressions of tools have been required to produce this wonderful exemplar of ingenuity and skill, some idea may be formed of the time and labour necessary for its execution."

This volume was finished by Thomas Hussey, who is now employed in Philadelphia, and who has in his possession the patterns executed upon the sides and back.

The French degenerated in binding from the time of Louis XIV. until they became far inferior to the English. This continued to the beginning of the present century; the books bound for the Emperor Napoleon, upon which no expense appears to have been spared, are clumsy, disjointed, and the tools coarse and unevenly worked. They were generally bound in red morocco, with morocco joints, lined with purple silk, upon which the imperial bee was stamped repeatedly. Thouvenin enjoys the honour of rescuing the art from its long-continued degradation in France, and of founding a school whose disciples are now acknowledged to rank with the great masters of the art. His tools and patterns were designed and cut by artists in his employ; his establishment was on a large scale; but at his death he left nothing behind him but his reputation as an artist, to stimulate others to attain excellence in workmanship and a cultivated taste in ornament and design. Among the most celebrated binders of the present day in France are, Trautz et Bauzonnet, Niédré, Duru, Capé and Lortic. The books of these artists are distinguished for solidity, squareness, freedom of the joints, firmness of the heads and back, and extreme nicety of finish. The fore-edges are gilt with the round in them, giving them a solid rich appearance, as yet unequalled. The material employed is of the choicest kind,—soft, rich Levant morocco being the favourite covering for choice books. This leather, in the hands of an ordinary workman, would make a clumsy covering upon account of its great thickness; for it cannot be shaved down by a skin-dresser without destroying the natural grain of the leather, and, with it, its velvet-like richness and beauty; and yet, under the manipulations of these French artists, it becomes one of the most plastic of materials; rare volumes of the smallest dimensions, containing but one or two sheets, are not only covered on the exterior, but the interior of the boards, and even the joints are of Levant morocco. There are many specimens of binding executed in France for gentlemen of taste and lovers of the art in this country; and, in speaking of the productions of French artists, it is to these that we refer. As a binder, Lortic appears to be the least known; but he will probably become more so. Capé is rapidly growing into favour. Duru is celebrated for the excellence of his forwarding. In this respect he cannot be surpassed. The full morocco specimens that we have seen have generally been bound à la Janseniste, and were truly exemplars. In exterior gilding he is not so happy as some of his brethren. Niédré possesses fine taste; his styles of finishing are varied and graceful in design, and the execution admirable. The reputation of Trautz et Bauzonnet has been established principally by the senior partner, Bauzonnet, Trautz being his son-in-law, and whose name has recently been placed at the head of the firm, perhaps to anticipate others in claiming to be the inheritors of the skill, and pupils of his father-in-law's school. Bauzonnet's bindings combine excellence in every department. They are specimens of the art in its highest state, being solid, firm, and square in every portion of the forwarding department. The covering, joints, and inside linings are matchless. The finishing may safely be pronounced perfection, so far as any thing produced by human agency can be. In style of finishing he generally confines himself to modifications of the Grolier, or to a broad border, composed of fine tools; and in the tooling the execution is faultless. Those who are accustomed to English bindings are apt to find fault with the firmness of his backs, as they do not throw out like English loose backs; but this subject of loose backs is but little understood; for, when it is known that what is generally esteemed an excellence is often but an indication of weakness,—that, in order to make the book throw out and lie open flat, the substance by which the sheets are secured together is a single strip of paper,—and that, where the band upon which the book is sewn can be plainly seen upon the opening of the volume, there is a strain upon it, the result of which must be its breakage, if in constant use, (a catastrophe that will never happen to one of Bauzonnet's books,)—the firm back will be preferred. In tracing the progress of the Art, and upon comparing the merits of artists of ancient and modern times, it is to the moderns that we assign the palm of superiority, especially for perfection of detail in the ornamentation.

[^*] "The antiquity of illuminated missals has been traced, conjecturally, even to the time of the apostles themselves. At the beginning of the Christian era, missive letters were usually written on tablets of wood, hollowed so as to present something of the appearance of a boy's slate in a frame. Two of these were placed face to face to preserve the writing, which was on wax, and a pair of boards thus prepared was called a Dyptich. The Epistles of St. Paul and the other apostles to the primitive churches were, in fact, missive letters despatched to their distant congregations; and there is every probability that imaginary or real portraits of the writers accompanied the letters, and headed the contents of the Christian dyptichs, in order to insure to them the same degree of reverence which was paid to the missives of the government when headed by the imperial effigies.

"The compact form of the dyptich suited the purposes of a movable altar-piece admirably. And the names dyptic or triptic, which implied at first but a double or triple page, came with time to designate those folding altarpieces so frequently found in the earliest Christian churches."—Lady Calcott's Essay.

[^†] Leland's Itin. vol. ii. p. 86, Oxford, 1769.]

MANUAL
OF THE
ART OF BOOKBINDING.

PART I.

SHEET WORK.

As the gathering of the sheets of a book, after they have been printed and dried off, is nearly always performed at the printer's, it will not be necessary to enter into any details on that subject, but to consider, as the commencement of binding, the operation of

FOLDING,

which is of great importance, the beauty of a book depending on its being properly and correctly folded, so that, when it is cut, the margin of the different pages may be uniform throughout, and present no transpositions, to the inconvenience of the reader and deterioration of the work.

The various sizes of books are denominated according to the number of leaves in which the sheet is folded; as folio, quarto, octavo, 12mo, 16mo, 18mo, 24mo, 32mo, &c. Each form presents a certain number of pages, so disposed that, when the sheet is properly folded, they will follow the numeric order. In commencing the folding of any work, particular attention should be paid, in opening out the quires or sets, to observe that the signatures follow each other alphabetically, and, if consisting of two or more volumes, that the whole of the sheets belong to the right one.

Although each form is folded in a different manner, it will not be requisite to detail the whole, as a description of the octavo and twelvemo will amply furnish an idea of the proper way of folding the larger and smaller sizes.

Octavo.—The sheets being placed on the table with the signature, which will be seen at the bottom of the first page, turned towards the table at the corner nearest to the left hand of the workman, will present pages 2, 15, 14, 3, below, and above, with their heads reversed, pages 7, 10, 11, 6, (reading from left to right.) The sheet is then taken with the left hand, by the angle to the right, and creased with the folder in the right hand, in the direction of the points made in the printing, taking care, by shading to the light, that the figures of the pages fall exactly one on the other, which will be 3 upon 2, and 6 upon 7, and thereby presenting uppermost pages 4 and 13, and above 5 and 12. The top part of the sheet is then brought down, with the left hand, upon the lower, pages 5 and 12 falling upon 4 and 13, directed properly, and again folded. The sheet then presents pages 8 and 9, which are then folded evenly, 9 upon 8, forming the third fold and finishing the sheet.

Twelvemo.—The signature to this size, when placed before the workman, should be at the top, on his left hand, and towards the table, the sheet presenting pages 2, 7, 11; 23, 18, 14; 22, 19, 15; 3, 6, 10. On the right, pages 11, 14, 15, 10, are separated from the others by a larger space, in the middle of which are the points, indicating the proper place where the pages should be cut off. The folder detaches this part, and, placing page 11 upon 10, makes a fold, and 13 upon 12, which will be uppermost, finishes the folding of what is called the inset, and which bears the signature of the sheet it has been separated from, with the addition of a figure or asterisk, as A5 or A*. The remaining eight pages are folded in the same way as the octavo, and when done the inset is placed in the middle of it, taking care that the head-lines arrange properly.

Books are sometimes printed in what is called half sheets, but they are folded the same, after cutting them up; the octavo in the direction of the points, the twelvemo in oblong direction of the paper, and laying them apart from each other. There are also oblong octavos, which are folded in the middle in a line with the points, the second fold in the same direction between the heads of the pages, and the third on the length of the paper.

In the first fold of the octavo sheet is shown the manner of folding the folio, and in the second the quarto; the twelvemo also presents us with the eighteens, after the sheet is cut into three divisions. Little or no difficulty will be experienced in folding any other size that may occur, attention to the disposition of the pages and signatures being only required.

It will often be found necessary to refold a book which, previous to being bound, may have been done up in boards, sewed, or otherwise. This should in all cases be carefully attended to, after the book has been taken to pieces, the back divested of the glue and thread, and the corners or other parts which may have been doubled turned up. This is usually done by examining if the margin at the head and fore-edge is equal throughout, bringing those to their proper place that are too short, and cutting those that are longer than the general margin. By these means a uniformity will be presented after the edges of the book are cut, which could never be attained if not attended to while the book is in this state.

The sheets of the book, being all folded, are then laid out along the edge of the gathering table, in the regular order of the signatures; the gatherer then commences at the last sheet or signature, takes one sheet from the parcel, one from the next, and so on until the first sheet or title is placed upon the top of the rest. The sheets are then held loosely in the hand, and allowed to fall lightly upon their backs and heads upon a smooth board, until they arrange themselves in an even, uniform manner. They are then

COLLATED,

to see that the whole of the sheets belong to the same work and volume, as also that none are wanting. This is done by taking the book in the right hand by the upper corner of the fore-edge, and with the left opening the sheets on the back and letting them fall successively one after the other. The signatures will be thus seen in alphabetical or arithmetical order, as a, b, c, &c., or 1, 2, 3, 4, &c., to the last, which should always be examined to ascertain that it is the completion of the book. By these means any sheet incorrectly folded is also detected. Books in folio and quarto are generally collated with a needle or pricker, by raising the sheets singly from the table; but this practice should be resorted to as little as possible, as the work is liable to be damaged. If any sheet is wanting, or belongs to another volume, or is a duplicate, the further progress of the work must be suspended till the imperfection is procured or exchanged. Those that have been wrong folded must be corrected, and any cancels occurring in the work cut out and replaced by the reprints, which will generally be found in the last sheet of the book. It is usual also with some binders to place any plates belonging to the volume, at this period; but as the liability of damage to them is great in the process of beating, or rolling, it will be much better to perform that operation after the book is brought from the stone, for which directions will be given. The book, being found correct, will be ready for the beating-stone, which, although it has been almost entirely superseded by the introduction of machinery, will always be invaluable to a binder of limited means; and the amateur will find it to be an essential process to secure the first great requisite of good binding,—solidity

BEATING, PRESSING, ETC.

The first operation is commenced by shaking the volume upon the stone by the back and head, so as to make the whole even and facilitate the division of it into as many equal parts, which are called sections or beatings, as may be judged necessary according to the thickness and other circumstances. A section is then taken and well beaten over, drawing it with the hand towards the body so as to bring the various parts successively under the hammer, and carefully avoiding striking more blows in one part than the other, except giving the edges a slight extra tap round. The section is then turned, and the like proceeding gone through; as also on each side after it has been separated and the bottom part placed on the top, the middle of the section being thereby brought under the action of the hammer. This being done, the sheets are replaced in their proper order, and two or three taps of the hammer given to make them lie even. In beating those books with which, from their value, greater care is required, it is usual to place a guard or waste leaf of paper on each side of the section, to avoid any stains or marks which the stone or hammer might be liable to make.

It requires more skill than actual strength in beating, the weight of the hammer being nearly sufficient for many works. Attention must be paid to the hammer descending parallel to the surface of the stone, to avoid marking or cutting the sheets with the edge.

Before beating a book, care should be taken to observe if it has been recently printed, for if so it would set off by being beaten too much. This will be easily ascertained by referring to the date at the foot of the title, or by smelling the ink it has been printed with, which, being composed partly of oil, will not have got perfectly dry. This will particularly be the case with machine-printed works. As, however, it is frequently necessary to bind a volume immediately after being printed, it will be requisite to take every precaution against its setting off, which would destroy the beauty of the work. It is the practice of some to put the book into an oven after the bread has been taken out, or into a stove heated sufficiently to dry the ink and make it search into the paper; but, as these means are not without danger of getting the paper blackened or soiled, it is a better plan to interleave the sheets with white paper, which will receive all the ink set off. Should the sheets have been hotpressed, which is readily distinguished, this precaution will not be necessary.

When employed at the beating-stone, the workman should keep his legs close together, to avoid hernia, to which he is much exposed if, with the intention of being more at ease, he contracts the habit of placing them apart.

A rolling-machine has been invented as a substitute for the beating which books require previous to being bound. The book is divided into parts, according to the thickness of the book; each part is then placed between tins, or pieces of sole-leather; the rollers are then put in motion, and the part passed through. This is repeated until the requisite degree of solidity is obtained. The great objections to the rolling-machine are the liabilities to cause a set-off, or transfer of the printing-ink, upon the opposite page, by the friction which is produced by passing between the rollers, and the bow-like appearance which they give the book, and which is to the forwarder a serious cause of annoyance, and sometimes all his skill and care are insufficient to remedy the evil caused by the rollers.

A powerful embossing press, technically called a smasher, has lately been employed with great advantage. A book is placed between tins, the platen is adjusted to a proper height, and the large fly-wheels set in motion. The platen descends in a perpendicular manner; then, upon its ascending, by means of a small handle the distance between the platens is decreased; the wheels still continuing in motion, the book, upon the descent of the platen, is compressed more forcibly than at first. The operation is repeated until the book has experienced the whole power of the press. It has been calculated that by this process a single volume will, if necessary, undergo a pressure equal to a weight of from fifty to eighty tons.

This process has an advantage over every other hitherto employed in which machinery has been engaged; and it is, in some respects, preferable to beating, as the book is of the same thickness in every part, while in beating there is a great liability to beat the edges thinner than the centre; and the air appears to be as completely forced out as if the beating-hammer had been used; and there seems to be no disposition in the book to swell up again after undergoing this crushing process.

In some binderies a hydraulic press is relied upon for compressing the sheets, without their undergoing the beating or rolling process. For publishers' work it has been found to answer the purpose for which it is employed, as the press can be filled up by placing the books in layers of from one to four or eight, according to their size, between iron plates; and the immense power of the press is thus evenly distributed through a large quantity of sheets at the same time.

HYDRAULIC PRESS, FROM THE MANUFACTORY OF
ISAAC ADAMS & CO., BOSTON.

The power of compression is derived from the pump to the left of the press, which is supplied with water from a cistern sunk under it. The water thus sent, by means of the tube seen passing from it to the centre of the foot of the press, causes the cylinder to which the bed is fixed to rise and compress the books or paper tightly between the bed and head of the press. When it is forced as high as can be by means of the pump-handle seen, a larger bar is attached and worked by two men. The extraordinary power of this press is so great as to cause, particularly in common work, a saving of more than three-fourths of the time required in bringing books to a proper solidity by the common press. When it is wished to withdraw the books, the small cock at the end of the tube at the foot of the press is turned, the water flows into the cistern below, and the bed with the books glides gently down in front of the workman. Two presses are frequently worked by the same pump, one being on each side.

The hydraulic press is manufactured by nearly all the press-makers, differing only in the general design, the application of power being the same.

After beating, should there be any plates to the work, they, as before stated, must now be placed among the text. Great care must be taken to make the justification of the plates uniform with the text, by cutting off any superfluity at the head or back, and by placing them exactly facing the pages to which they refer, pasting the edge next to the back. Any that may be short at the head must be brought down, to preserve a uniformity. It is advisable to place a leaf of tissue-paper before each plate, particularly when newly printed, as the ink of copper-plates is longer in drying than that of letter-press. When a work contains a great number of plates, which are directed to be placed at the end, they are sewn on the bands by overcasting, which operation will shortly be treated of in full.

The book, being now ready for pressing, is taken in sections, according to the work and the judgment of the workman, and placed between pressing-boards the size of the volume, one on the other, and conveyed to the standing-press, which is pulled down as tight as possible by the press-pin, or fly-wheel, according to the nature of the standing-press; although it must be premised that when a book has been through the smasher, no further pressing will be required until it reaches the hands of the forwarder.

After the book has been sufficiently pressed, it will be necessary again to collate it, to correct any disarrangement that may have taken place during the beating and pressing. It is then ready for being sawn out.

SAWING THE BACKS.

This operation is performed in order to save the expense of sewing upon raised bands, and also to prevent the bands on which a book is sewn appearing on the back. After beating the book up well on the back and head, it is placed between two cutting-boards, the back projecting a little over the thick edge, and tightly screwing in the laying or cutting-press, the whole being elevated sufficiently to prevent the saw damaging the cheeks of the press. Then with a tenant-saw the proper number of grooves are made, in depth and width according to the diameter of the band intended to be used, which will depend on the size of the book. A slight cut must also be given above the first and under the last band, for lodging the chain or kettle-stitch. It is very necessary that the saw should be held parallel with the press, without which precaution, the grooves being deeper on one side than the other, the work will present, when opened, a defect to the eye.

The end-papers, which should consist of four leaves of blank paper, folded according to the size of the book, are now prepared, and one placed at the beginning and end of each volume.

SEWING.

According to the number of bands wanted, must be attached to the loops on the cross-bar of the sewing-press as many pieces of cord, of proper length and thickness, and fastened with the aid of the keys in the groove of the press as nearly equal in tightness as possible. When this is done, the back of the first sheet in the book is placed against the cords, which must be moved upwards or the contrary to the marks of the saw, when the small screws at each end under the cross-bar must be moved upwards till the strings are equally tight. All this being disposed, the book is commenced sewing by placing the end-paper, which has no marks of the saw, on the sheet before laid down, and sewing it throughout, leaving a small end of thread to form the knot, after sewing the first sheet, which is then taken from under and sewn the whole length.

There are various ways of sewing, according to the size and thickness of the sheets of a book. A volume consisting of thick sheets, or a sheet containing a plate or map, should be sewn singly the whole length, in order to make the work more secure and solid. Great care should also be taken not to draw the thread too tight at the head or foot of the book. The thread, in order to keep the book of the same thickness at the ends and centre, should be drawn parallel with the bench, and not downwards, as is too frequently the case. Upon the proper swelling of the back mainly depends the regularity of the round and firmness of the back in the after-stages of the binding.

When a book is sewed two sheets on, three bands are generally used. Taking the sheet and fixing it on the bands, the needle is inserted in the mark made for the kettle-stitch and brought out by the first band; another sheet is then placed, and the needle introduced on the other side of the band, thus bringing the thread round it, sewn in like manner to the middle band, and continued to the third, when, taking again the first sheet, it is sewn from the third band to the other kettle-stitch, where it is fastened, and another course of two sheets commenced, and so continued to the last sheet but one, which is sewn the whole length, as directed for the first sheet, as also the end-paper. Three bands are preferable to two, the book being more firm from being fastened in the middle, which is the only difference in sewing on two and three bands.

Half-sheets, to obviate the swelling of the back too much, are usually sewn on four bands, which admit of three on a course: the first sheet is sewn as in three bands, from the kettle-stitch to the first band, the next to the second, and the third takes the middle space; then the second sheet again from the third to the fourth band, and the first from thence to the other kettle-stitch. The third sheet having only one stitch, it is necessary that, in sawing, the distance from the second to the third band should be left considerably longer than between the others. Quartos are generally sewn on five bands to make the work firmer, but if in half-sheets, as in the folio size, six or more are used, sewing as many sheets on as bands, giving each sheet but one tack or sewing, and piercing the needle through the whole of the course at each end or kettle-stitch before fastening the thread. This, which gives sufficient firmness, is necessary to prevent the swelling of the back which a less number of sheets in a course would make and spoil the appearance of the binding.

When the book is composed of single leaves, plates, or maps, or, as in the case of music, where, from the decayed state of the back, it is necessary to cut off a portion with the plough in the manner pointed out for cutting edges, the whole must be attached to the bands by what is called whipping or overcasting. This is by taking a section, according to the thickness of the paper, and forcing the needle through the whole at the kettle-stitch, and on each side of all the bands, at a distance sufficient to secure the stitches from tearing, bringing the thread round each band, as before directed, and fastening it at the end before proceeding with another course. To keep the whole of the sheets properly even, the back is sometimes glued immediately after cutting, and when dry divided into sections. Atlases and books of prints, when folded in the middle, will require a guard, or slip of paper, to be pasted to them, so as to allow them to open flat, which they could not do if attached to the back, and which would destroy the engraving. These guards must be of strong paper about an inch in breadth and folded to the right size. They are sewn by overcasting, as above directed.

A better method for books of plates, or single leaves, is, after cutting the back evenly with the plough, to lay it between boards and glue the back evenly over with thin glue. After it has become dry and hard, separate it into thin sections; then let it be sawn out in the usual manner; it should then be taken and whipped, or overcast in separate sections with fine thread, care being taken in whipping the sections that it be evenly and neatly done. After the sections are all whipped, they should be sewn or affixed to the bands in the same manner as folded sheets.

The old mode of sewing on raised bands combines many advantages. This style is still adopted with many works, particularly with those having a small margin; in fact, it is, both for elasticity and durability, far superior to any mode that is practised; it is, however, a very slow process, and necessarily an expensive one; and many binders who pretend to bind in this manner, to obviate this, have their books sewed in the ordinary way, and then, by sticking false bands upon the back, give them the appearance of having been sewn on raised bands. If it is intended to sew a book purely flexible, it should be knocked up even and square, placed between two pieces of pasteboard, and placed in a laying-press; then draw a line across the back, near the head, where it will be cut by the forwarder in cutting the edges. Next take a pair of compasses and divide the back lengthwise into six even portions, except the bottom or tail, which should be longer than the rest, in order to preserve a proper symmetry of appearance; then draw lines square across the back with a black lead-pencil from the compass-points of the five inner divisions, for the places upon which the bands are to be sewed; then make a slight scratch with a saw about one-quarter of an inch inside of where the book will be cut, for the kettle-stitch at the head and likewise at the tail. Upon taking the book out of the laying-press, take the pasteboards and saw them at the points marked by the lead-pencil of a depth sufficient to allow the cords upon which the book is to be sewn to enter. The boards will then serve as a guide to set the bands of the sewing-press at the commencement of the operation, and afterwards, during the progress of the work, will be found useful to regulate any deviations that may be inadvertently taking place. After the sewing-press is properly regulated and the end-paper sewn as previously described, the sheets should then be taken, one at a time, in their regular order, and sewn all along, from one end of the sheet to the other, or, more properly, from one kettle-stitch to the other, taking especial pains to observe that in sewing each sheet, after the first kettle-stitch has been caught, the needle must be passed to the farthest side of the nearest band, then passed to the other side of the band, and so on for each successive band. By this means the thread will have passed completely round each band, upon which the sheet will revolve as upon a hinge, without the slightest strain upon either the band or the thread. The inner margin is thus preserved its full size, and the freedom of the volume much increased.

If you desire to revel in the full enjoyment of a flexible back, have it sewn with silk upon silken bands or cords, and you will have a combination of elasticity and strength that cannot be surpassed.

For large volumes of engravings, the best mode of binding, so as to secure strength and also to allow the plates to lie flat when the volume is open, is to mount the plates with linen upon guards. To do this properly, select paper of the same thickness as the plates, cut it in strips an inch or an inch and a half wide, paste the back edge of the plate about a quarter of an inch in depth, from top to bottom; then lay a strip of thin linen or paper-muslin along the pasted edge of the plate, and rub it so that it will adhere. The strips of linen must be sufficiently wide to project beyond the plate as far as the width of the paper guards. One of the latter is then to be evenly pasted over and laid upon the projecting strip of linen, carefully smoothed, and laid between pasteboards to dry after they are thus mounted. The plates are then whipped along the back edge of the guard, and sewed in the usual manner.

It was proposed by M. Lesne, bookbinder of Paris, in a Memoir presented by him to the "Société d' Encouragement," January 18, 1818, that in order to give to books the three essential qualities of binding, elasticity, solidity, and elegance, they should be sewn similar to the Dutch method, which is on slips of parchment, instead of packthread; but to remedy the inconvenience arising from one slip being insufficient to make the back of a proper solidity, as well as being liable to break, and, if doubled or trebled, presenting a bad effect on the back when covered, he suggested the adoption of silk for the bands, which in a much less diameter is far stronger than packthread double the thickness. It is also preferable for sheets that require sewing the whole length to use silk, this being much stronger than thread, and insuring a greater solidity to the work. It will be observed that the cuts of the saw, apparent in other bindings, are not seen in opening the volume. When the volume is entirely sewn, the screws are loosened, the cords detached from the keys, and about two inches of the cord left on each side of the book to attach the boards that are to form the sides.

INDIA-RUBBER BACKS.

In those instances where the leaves of a book are held together by caoutchouc cement instead of by sewing, the sheets are cut up into separate leaves, and every leaf made true and square at the edges. The back edge is then brought to a rounded form, by allowing the sheets to arrange themselves in a grooved recess or mould; and in that state the leaves are all moistened at the back edges with a cement of liquid caoutchouc or India-rubber. The quantity so applied is very small. In a few hours, it is sufficiently dry to take another coat of a somewhat stronger caoutchouc solution. In forty-eight hours, four applications of the caoutchouc may be made and dried. The back and the adjoining part of the sides are next covered with the usual band or fillet of cloth glued on with caoutchouc; after which the book is ready to have the boards attached, and to be covered with leather or parchment, as may be desired.

PART II.

FORWARDING.

This branch of the art may be divided into several parts. We will give precedence to that branch or class of forwarding that requires the utmost precision and opens to the ambitious forwarder a field of exertion worthy of his best efforts. Let the workman who strives to excel in his art remember that his work goes through the hands of critics and judges; that it possibly may be compared with the productions of the most celebrated artists. Let him, then, look well to his laurels if engaged upon first-class job or

CUSTOMER WORK.

The book being taken from the sewing-press, the end-papers and the first sheet are then turned back. A strip of paper is placed about one-eighth of an inch from the back, so as to prevent the paste from spreading unevenly, and paste is then applied with the finger along the edge of the sheet. The sheet is turned over, and the same process repeated to the first and second leaves of the end-papers, if the book is to be lined with buff or brown paper. After the papers have been cut to the proper size and evenly folded, they are pasted along the folded edge in the same manner as the end-papers were. The first leaf of the end-paper is then turned over, and the lining-paper laid full up to the back-edge of the book. If this be done carelessly, or not entirely straight and square from end to end, the future appearance of the book will be considerably marred. As much of the beauty of the joint depends upon the manner in which the lining has been performed, if it is intended to line with marbled paper, after turning over the end-leaf, place the lining as near as possible to the back-edge, so as to expose to the action of the brush almost the entire leaf of the end-paper that lies on the book. Paste this lightly over; then place the lining upon it, and rub it even and smooth with the hand. In either case it should be left to dry before the end-paper is folded down to its place, as it is liable to force the lining-paper from the back. A better method is to paste the marble-paper upon the white end-paper before it is inserted in the book. The papers may then be lightly pressed, to make them perfectly smooth, and hung upon lines to dry. By this process there is no fear of the book being wrinkled by the dampness from the lining-paper. Attention should be paid that such papers only as will blend well with the colour of the leather intended for the cover are used.

If a joint of calf or morocco is required, all that is necessary for the forwarder to do is to tip the back-edge of the lining that goes next to the book very slightly, merely to secure it until it reaches the finisher, and place one or two guards of stout paper along the joint, to be afterwards torn out by the finisher.

These matters being adjusted, the end-paper turned back to its place, and the twine on which the book has been sewn pulled tight, care having been taken to avoid pressing the twine against the end-papers, on account of their liability to tear near the bands, the bands which are intended to be laced in the boards must be opened, or the strands separated with a bodkin and scraped with a dull knife so as to bring them to a point and make them more convenient to pass through the boards which are to form the side covers.

The book is now taken between the hands and well beaten up at the back and head on a smooth board, or on the laying-press, to bring the sheets level and square, as the beauty of the book, in all the subsequent operations, depends much on the care and attention paid in this place. The volume is then laid carefully upon a board, with the back to the edge of the board, a strip of pasteboard is laid on the upper side, the book placed in the laying-press, and the back evenly glued. The glue should be well rubbed in between the sheets, taking care that the sheets are even on the back and the volume equal in thickness throughout the whole length. It is then laid on a board to dry, but must not be placed before the fire, as, by so doing, the glue becomes hard and liable to crack in the process of

ROUNDING.

In commencing this operation, the book is placed upon the laying-press with the fore-edge towards the workman; the left hand should then be placed flat and open upon it, the thumb towards the fore-edge. With the four fingers the volume is slightly bent and the upper portion of the back drawn towards the workman. The right hand is then engaged with a backing-hammer in lightly tapping the sheets with an upward motion from the centre of the back. The volume is then turned upon the other side, and the operation is repeated until it is evident that the book has acquired a sufficient round. The left hand is held to the back while the round is pressed into the fore-edge with the fingers of the right. The volume is then held up and the back carefully examined to ascertain if the round is perfectly regular, and, if not, it must be again submitted to light blows of the hammer until the back describes a portion of a perfect circle. Care should be taken that the round be not too flat for the thickness of the volume, or, on the other hand, that it does not become what is called a pig-back,—a horrible monstrosity in binding, having a sharp ridge in the centre of the back. If the round be not regular and even from the centre to the edges, as well as from head to tail, and entirely free from twist, no after-skill or care can overcome the evil, but it will ever remain to prove the want of care or the incapacity of the workman. The next process, and equally important, is that of

BACKING,

which is done to form the groove for the reception of the boards. One of the backing-boards is placed upon the volume at an equal distance from the back, the distance depending upon the thickness of the board; then, turning the volume, the other is placed in a similar manner; the boards are then firmly grasped by the left hand across the back, and, with the assistance of the right hand, the whole carefully put into the laying-press, the edge of the boards nearest the back of the volume even with the cheeks of the press, and screwed up with the press-pin as tight as possible. The backing-hammer is then taken in the right hand and employed in turning the sheets from the centre over the backing-boards, to form the necessary groove. For this purpose the first blows should commence near the centre of the volume, and should be as light as possible, the blows glancing towards the edge, so as to merely commence the turning of the sheets, without causing any indentations or wrinkles on the inside of the volume. This should be proceeded with lengthwise of the volume, each series of blows growing gradually nearer to the edge or backing-board, and, as they approach, becoming more firm, until the sheets are turned over the backing-board, so as to form a regular and solid groove. The process is repeated up the other side, the volume examined to see if the back is regular and equal in its circle throughout, and any slight irregularities corrected by light taps of the beating-hammer; but nothing can justify a workman in striking a heavy blow near the centre of the back, as it must inevitably crush and wrinkle the paper on the inside. It serves but to prove his ignorance of the principle upon which the entire operation is based. There is nothing connected with the forwarding of a book that requires more attention, patience, and skill, than the rounding and backing, and there is nothing that contributes more to the general appearance of the volume. If well done, it gives a character and a tone to all the subsequent operations; if done badly, no care or skill that may be afterwards employed can hide it. It remains an enduring mark of a careless or inefficient workman. The volume is now ready for the boards, which have been previously prepared. This is done by cutting the sheets of milled-boards according to the size of the book, with the table or patent-shears. One side of the board is then lined with paper, the shrinkage of which will cause the board to curl towards it. If the volume be large, or a thick board be required, it will be necessary to paste two or more thicknesses of board together. Place them in the standing-press, under pressure, until dry; then take them out and line them on the side of the board that has been pasted, or, if one board be thinner than the other, upon the thin board, in the same manner as the single board. Boards made in this manner should always be prepared some length of time before they are used. The boards being in readiness, the volume is taken and one point of the compasses placed at the centre of the back, and the other point extended towards the fore-edge until it reaches the edge of the smallest bolt. This will give the proper size to cut the boards, as the groove or joint will give the projection or square of the board. If the volume be rare and valuable, let the workman be merciful in the use of his steel, as the cropping of ignorant workmen has impaired the value of many a choice tome. If it be intended that the leaves are to remain uncut, previous to the rounding of the volume, take a large butcher's-knife and carefully trim the extreme ends of the projecting leaves. After the size has been obtained, the next operation is

SQUARING THE BOARDS.

This is done by cutting the back-edge of the boards with a plough in the laying-press; the boards are then marked with the compasses from the edge which has been squared towards the front; the front cutting-board is placed at the compass-holes, and again put in press, with the front cutting-board or runner level with the cheek of the press, the back-board being a little higher, so as to allow the plough-knife to cut against it. The rough part is cut off with the plough as hereafter described, with this difference:—that, in cutting pasteboards, the workman cuts towards him. The boards are then taken out of press, and the square applied to the head, and marked with the point of a bodkin; this is cut off in the same manner. The volume is then opened and examined for the purpose of finding a leaf of an average length, which is measured by placing the thumb of the left hand against the edge of the head and applying against it one of the points of the compasses, carrying the other so much over the end of the leaf as will allow for the square of the boards at the tail; and if the volume be large for a portion of the square at the head, the superfluous portion is then cut off with the plough. In taking the size, let the workman recognise as a rule that every book should be cut as large as possible, lest he be suspected of having an eye more to the shaving-tub than to his reputation as a binder. Among the early binders, De Rome is noted for his merciless cropping. But few volumes have preserved the integrity of their margins after having been submitted to the cruel operation of his steel. A volume cut to the print is said to bleed; therefore be careful to avoid the slightest approach towards the commission of such an act of Vandalism. The boards having been squared for the back, front, head, and tail, they are placed, with the lined side of the board next to the book, preparatory to the

LACING IN.

Each board is then marked with a bodkin opposite to the slips intended to be laced in; a hole in a vertical position is then made through the board, and being turned, another in the same way near to the first. The bands, having been pasted and passed in above, are returned through the other hole, and, being pulled tight, the boards will necessarily be perpendicular to the back, and confined in the groove. After cutting off the end of the strings near to the lace-holes, they must be beaten well and evenly into the board by placing the under part on an iron (called the knocking-down iron) fixed at the end of the laying-press, and beating above with the backing-hammer.

If it be desirable that the bands should not be seen inside, the hole may be made so vertical that, by placing the bodkin in the same on the other side, another verging a contrary way to the first may be made, and the band, being passed in this one continued hole, will not be seen underneath. The liability, however, of its tearing out is an objection, and from this cause the common way, with care in beating down, is preferable.

After the slips have been well beaten down, the roundness of the back must be examined, and any twist that is perceptible corrected with the backing-hammer. A piece of smooth tin, larger than the volume, must then be inserted between each board and the book, with one edge of the tin full up to the joint. The volume is next placed between pressing-boards even with the joint, and put into the standing-press, which must be screwed tight and evenly down. Stewart's double-screw iron standing-press is well adapted for the purpose, and is in very general use. After the press has been screwed down, the back of the volume is then damped with thin paste, and, according to the firmness of the sewing and book, grated and scraped, and finally rubbed smooth with paper-shavings, and left to dry in the press for as long a time as possible. If a large volume, it is usual to apply a little glue to the back. When taken out of the press, the boards must be disengaged from the end-papers, where they adhere, so that they may move freely up and down in the cutting.

CUTTING THE EDGES.

The manner of preparing the volume for cutting is very important, as swerving from right angles in cutting the head and tail will present a disagreeable appearance. Every precaution must be taken to insure the volume being cut perfectly square. The front-board is drawn down from the head just sufficient for the knife to operate upon in the cutting. A piece of trindle is inserted between the volume and the back-board for the point of the knife to cut against. The volume is then placed, with the back towards the workman, on a cutting-board in the left hand; the runner or smooth-edged board is then fixed on the other side, with the right hand, even and square with the edge of the mill-board, and the whole, held tight with the left hand, put into the cutting-press, to the level of the right-hand cheek of the same, taking care that the volume hangs perpendicular to the cheeks of the press. Being screwed tight with the pin, the workman then takes the plough with the right hand, by the head of the screw, and, placing it on the groove of the press, proceeds to cut the book, holding the other end of the screw firmly with the left hand, and causing the knife to advance gradually through the book by turning the screw gently as he cuts, which should be all one way,—viz.: as the arms are removed from the body. The plough must be held firm in the groove or guides of the press, to prevent the knife jumping or cutting the edges uneven; and, should the knife be found to run up or down, the defect must be remedied by removing some of the paper or boards placed under the knife where it is fastened to the plough. If there should be none required to bring the knife even with the plough, then a piece must be placed on whichever side of the bolt the defect may require. The head being cut, the same operation is repeated for the tail.

Much precaution is necessary in cutting the fore-edge. Mark the book with a bodkin on the projecting part of the end-papers, and on each side, at the head and foot, close to the square side of the boards, drawing a line from one to the other; then, laying the boards open, insert a trindle at each end of the volume, under the back, so as to throw the round out; then wind a piece of fine cord several times round from the head to the tail, to prevent the leaves returning after the back is made flat, to form the gutter on the fore-edge. This done, beat the back flat on the press, and place one of the cutting-boards at the end of the book, even with the line before made; turn it, and place the runner as much below the line on the title-side as has been allowed for the square on the fore-edge. Taking the whole in the left hand, the volume must be examined to remedy any defects, should it not be regular and equal on both sides, and then put into the press, the runner as before even with the right cheek, taking care to keep the other board projected above the left, equal to the square allowed in front, so that, when cut through, the fore-edge may be equally square with the boards on each side. After the fore-edge is cut, the string is taken off, the back resumes its circular form, and the edge in consequence presents a grooved appearance, which puzzles the uninitiated to ascertain how it is produced. The method above described is called "cutting in boards," and is superior to any other.

It is of the utmost importance to the young workman that he should pursue and acquire a methodical system in all his operations. Select the best method, as a matter of course, and then adhere to it. Do not, every time you perform one particular process, do it in a different manner. For instance: in backing or in turning up your books, it is better to always have the head towards you; in cutting head and tail, to have the back nearest you. In laying your work down, always do it in one way. Let that way be the one whereby you can most conveniently take it up again. Much time may be wasted, from inattention to these particulars, in the unnecessary handling and confused manner of working. It will be found that the best and most expeditious workmen are those who do their work in a systematical manner. In taking leave of this department, our parting admonition to the young workman is, strive to excell. Do not be content if your work will merely pass, and say to yourself, "Oh, that is good enough!" If it is possible for you to do it better, it is not good enough. Employ your reasoning faculties as well as your physical powers, so that you do not sink into a mere machine. When performing a process, ask yourself the question, "Why is this done? What is the object of it? Can the process be improved?" You will find the hand to be an apt instrument of the mind and will, and that you will speedily be recognised as an intelligent workman. Have, at least, this much ambition.

The next process which the volume must undergo is the gilding or colouring of

THE EDGES.

Colouring the edges with one colour, equally sprinkling over, marbling, and gilding, come under this head; and the style of ornament of this description must depend on the price allowed for the work, and will vary according to the taste of the workman and wish of the employer.

OF COLOURING AND SPRINKLING.

The colours most used are brown and red, in preparing which it is necessary to grind them in water, very fine, on a slab, with a muller. Each colour is then placed in a separate vase, and mixed up with a little paste and water to the proper consistency for use. To procure a better edge, two drops of oil and about an equal quantity of vinegar and water may be mixed with the paste.

In colouring the edges equally over, the boards at the head of the volume must be beat even with the edges, and the book rested on the edge of the press or table; then, holding the book firm with the left hand, the colours must be applied with a small sponge or brush, passing it evenly upon the edge, proceeding towards the back one way and the gutter the other, to avoid a mass of colour being lodged in the angle of the fore-edge. This done, the other parts are similarly coloured, the fore-edge being laid open from the boards and a runner held firm above to prevent the colour searching into the book. It will be perceived that a dozen volumes may be done at the same time with scarcely more than the additional trouble of placing one above the other. For further security, and to prevent the colour searching into the books, it is advisable to put them into the laying-press and screw them moderately tight. In fact, for all good work, this must be done.

In sprinkling, it is usual to tie together a number of volumes with a board on each side of the outside books, or place them in the laying-press first, with the heads upwards; then, with a large brush, similar to a painter's, dipped in whatever colour may be wished, and well beat on the press-pin over the pot till the sprinkle becomes fine, the edges are covered. The pin and brush are held sufficiently above the book, and the edge sprinkled by beating lightly at first, and stronger as the brush becomes less charged with colour, being careful that the spots are as fine as possible, the sprinkle being thereby made more beautiful.

The cleanest method, and at the same time the surest to produce a fine sprinkle, is to use a wire sieve and a stiff brush, something like a shoe-brush, for convenience. The sieve should be oval in form, with a very thick wire running round the edge until they meet, then projecting about a foot from the sieve so as to form a handle, the whole somewhat resembling in shape the bat used by ball-players. Fine brass wire is the best for the sieve. The wire should be about one-fourth of an inch apart. After every thing is in readiness, dip the stiff brush in the colour and lay the sieve over the pan, and rub the brush over it to get rid of the superfluous colour, which will drop into the pan; then knock off all the loose colour adhering to the sieve; then hold the sieve over the books, and rub the brush over the wires, lightly at first, and afterwards harder as the brush loses the colour. The colour will descend like a fine mist, and the effect produced upon the edge cannot be equalled by the old method. Several colours are sometimes used with very pleasing effect; some of these combinations will be described, and many others will readily occur to the workman as his taste may suggest.

COLOURS.

Of vegetable colours, and ochres, directions for mixing which have been given above, it will only be necessary to particularize the most approved and generally-used substances. The liquid ones will require a more lengthened description.

Blue.—Indigo and Prussian blue, with whiting for lighter shades.

Yellow.—Dutch pink, King's yellow, and yellow orpine.

Brown.—Umber, burnt over the fire.

Red.—Vermilion; or Oxford ochre, burnt in a pan.

Pink.—Rose-pink; to make it brighter, add lake.

Green.—The first and second mixed to any shade.

The liquid or spirit colours will be found best for use, as the edges will not rub, which all other colours are liable to do. Some of the receipts are well known; but, it being necessary to give a faithful record of the art, the whole of the colours used and modes of preparation will be presented.

BLUE.

Two ounces of the best indigo, finely powdered, mixed with a teaspoonful of spirit of salts and two ounces of best oil of vitriol. Put the whole into a bottle, and let it remain in boiling water for six or eight hours, and mix with water as wanted to the shade required.

YELLOW.

French berries, saffron, or faustic chips. Boil with a small portion of alum; strain and bottle for use.

GREEN.

The two colours above will make an excellent green used in proportions as the shade required. Another green may be made by boiling four ounces of verdigris and two ounces of cream of tartar till a good colour is produced.

ORANGE.

Two ounces of Brazil dust, one ounce of French berries, bruised, and a little alum. Boil in water and strain.

RED.

Brazil dust, half a pound; alum, two ounces, well powdered; boiled in a pint of vinegar and a pint of water till brought down to a pint. Strain and bottle. The red edges now in vogue are made with vermilion, mixed with vellum-size. The better class are scraped before they are coloured, and afterwards they are burnished.

PURPLE.

Logwood chips, in the proportion of half a pound to two ounces of alum, and a small piece of copperas, boiled in three pints of soft water till reduced a third, will make a good purple.

Brazil dust, submitted to the action of strong potash water, will make a good purple for immediate use, but will not keep.

BROWN.

A quarter of a pound of logwood, and the same quantity of French berries, boiled together. If a darker shade is required, add a little copperas. Plain brown edges are made with burnt umber, in the same manner as that described for red edges.

With these colours, edges of books may be sprinkled to almost an infinite number of patterns. A few will be given; for, though fancy sprinkles are seldom used where the binder can get the edges of extra books marbled, they will be of use to those who would find marbling a work of too great preparation and expense for a small number of books in places where there is no marbler.

RICE MARBLE.

This pattern has been so called from the use of rice; but linseed, or bread crumbs, will answer the same purpose. The rice is laid on the edge of the book according to fancy, and the edge sprinkled with any colour, the rice thus forming blank spaces. The edge may be coloured previously all over, or sprinkled with a lighter shade.

WHITE SPOT.

Take white wax and melt it in a pot; then with a brush throw some upon the edge of the book; when it is set, colour the edge with a sponge. Take the book and give it two or three smart knocks on the end of the press, when the wax will fly off and a beautiful white spot remain. This pattern may be much varied by using two or three colours or sprinkling the edge before the wax is thrown on, and, after it is, again with other colours.

Whiting mixed with water to a thick consistency will nearly answer the same purpose, and is less expensive than wax.

FANCY MARBLE.

Take a small portion of rose-pink, green, or any other vegetable colour, and well bray it on the slab with the muller, till reduced to a fine powder. Prepare a dish, or other vessel, large enough to admit the fore-edge of the book, and filled with clear water; then with the palette-knife mix a portion of the colours with spirits of wine, and convey with the knife some of the same to the middle of the vessel, and allow it to flow gradually on the surface of the water. The spirit of wine will cause it to spread in a diversity of pleasing forms, when the edge of the book must be dipped in the same manner as for marbling, and a very neat pattern will be produced at a trifling cost, as no more colour need be mixed than wanted at each time.

GOLD SPRINKLE.

After the edges of the book are stained with any of the colours above described, a good effect may be given by sprinkling with a gold liquid, made in the following manner:—Take a book of gold and half an ounce of honey, and rub them together in a mortar until they are very fine; then add half a pint of clear water and mix them well together. After the water clears, pour it off and put in more, till the honey is all extracted and nothing left but the gold; mix one grain of corrosive sublimate with a teaspoonful of spirits of wine, and when dissolved put the same, with a little thick gum-water, to the gold, and bottle it, always shaking it well before using. When dry, burnish the edge, and cover it with paper till the work is finished.

MARBLING.

Marbling is an art which consists in the production of certain patterns and effects by means of colours so prepared as to float upon a preparation of mucilaginous liquid, possessing certain antagonistic properties to the colours prepared for the purpose, and which colours, when so prepared, floated and formed into patterns upon the surface of the liquid, are taken off by laying thereon a piece or sheet of paper or dipping therein the smoothly-cut edges of a book.

It is a process which it is not very easy to describe; and yet, to any one beholding it for the first time, nothing appears more simple or easy of execution. Yet the difficulties are many; and the longer any one practises it, the more he will become convinced that there are many more discoveries to be made before the art can be brought to any thing like perfection or effects produced with that certainty which the workman could desire. In short, it may be said to be still in its infancy.

When the art was first discovered, and by whom, or in what city or country it was first practised, it is hardly possible to determine. It is supposed that we cannot go farther back for its origin than the beginning of the seventeenth century, and that Holland has the honour of being the birthplace of the art,—the old Dutch and some drawn and antique patterns, with stormont and other spots, being considered the most original.

Many years ago this old Dutch paper, in the size of foolscap, was imported into England, wrapped round small parcels of Dutch toys, and thus passed free of duty. When taken off, it was carefully smoothed and sold to bookbinders, commanding a high price, being only used on the better kinds of work. Indeed, so choice was it that you may still see in some old books the inside-linings made of pieces carefully joined together. Something of the art has unfortunately been lost since that time, for both the colours and the execution of some of these old specimens far surpass the best efforts of the most celebrated modern marblers.

It is proposed, however, to show, as clearly and briefly as possible, how it is done and practised at the present day by the best English workmen, and to describe the various processes in such a manner as will enable any individual possessed of a common share of understanding and discernment, to do it himself; and, where there are two ways of doing it, that will be described which experience has pronounced to be easiest and best.

In describing one pattern, that will be considered sufficient to include all of the same class, or that are done in the same manner, although different colours may be used. For instance, a brown may be described, and green, being the same in every respect as regards the mixing and working the colours, may be substituted for the brown; and so in regard to other colours.

COLOURS.

The colours required for marbling are the same as those ordinarily used for painting both in oil and distemper. They should be procured in a dry state, just as they are produced or manufactured, and ground by the marbler himself. A list is subjoined:—

REDS.

Drop Lake.

Peach-wood Lake.

Vermilion.

Rose-Pink.

Oxford Ochre, Burnt.

BLUES.

Indigo.

Chinese Blue.

Ultramarine.

Prussian Blue.

YELLOWS.

Lemon Chrome.

Dutch Pink.

Oxford Ochre, Raw.

BLACKS.

Vegetable Lamp-Black.

Drop Ivory-Black.

BROWN.

Turkey Umber Burnt.

ORANGE.

Orange Lead.

Orange Chrome.

WHITE.

China Clay.

Pipe-Clay.

Flake White.

Paris White.

DROP LAKE.

This is the most beautiful, but the most expensive, of all the reds, and is used only for book-edges and the most superior kinds of work. There are different shades of this colour, viz.:—scarlet, crimson, and purple. The scarlet is the most expensive, and looks the best on edges, possessing a brilliancy which no other colour will produce; but there is a great quantity of a very inferior kind of drop lake about, which is of no use whatever to a marbler, for, when it comes to be worked, it is found to possess no body.

In order to ascertain whether the article about to be purchased will answer, take a piece of the colour, and, breaking it, apply the broken part to the tongue. If it adhere to the tongue, it is very doubtful whether it will do; but if it hold up the moisture without any inclination to adhere, it may be tried with better expectations. This colour is sold in the form of small cones or drops, from which it derives its name, and is a preparation of cochineal; therefore the value of it depends much upon the price of that article.

VERMILION.

This colour is but little used, on account of its great specific gravity, and seldom without being combined with some other colour. It is a preparation of mercury, and, though nominally at a much lower price than lake, yet so little of it goes to a pound, it comes nearly as dear as that article.

ROSE-PINK.

This is a very useful though common colour. It is composed of chalk or whiting coloured with Brazil wood; consequently it is what is termed a fugitive colour, the pink very quickly fading on exposure to the atmosphere or to heat. When combined with indigo or a little Chinese blue it makes a good purple.

BURNT OCHRE.

This colour is obtained in its native state from pits dug in the earth in the neighbourhood of Oxford; hence, it is called Oxford ochre, and sometimes stone ochre. It is in fact a kind of clay, and when made red-hot turns to a kind of red colour. It is one of the most useful colours, and, as the price is low, is extensively used. With the addition of a little black it makes a good brown; with a little blue or indigo it makes a good olive; or it is a good colour used by itself, and is not liable to change.

WOOD LAKE.

This is a preparation of peach-wood, and has only been introduced of late years to the notice of marblers. It is manufactured at Birmingham. This colour is an exception to the rule, as it is sold in the pulp or damp state, and may be mixed and even used without grinding, being made almost exclusively for marbling. It is the best red that can be used for general purposes, and for appearance comes next to the drop lake.

CHINESE BLUE.

This is a very beautiful but not a very durable colour. It is, however, an almost indispensable one to the marbler, as it will produce nearly every shade of blue by the addition of certain proportions of white. This colour requires to be particularly well ground, as indeed do all the blues. It is also sold at some places in the pulp or damp state. There are some very good damp blues made.

INDIGO.

This colour is a most valuable article, and cannot be dispensed with under any consideration. It is too well known to require describing. Though not a bright colour, it is one of the most durable, and for mixing and producing greens and purples of a permanent kind is invaluable. Neither can a good black be made without it. Care should, however, be taken to procure it of the best quality.

ULTRAMARINE.

This is a very beautiful colour, but must be used very sparingly, as it will not glaze or take any kind of polish, and is always inclined to rub off. The kinds now in general use are the French and German, the genuine article being far too high in price for this kind of work.

PRUSSIAN BLUE.

This colour has been of late almost entirely superseded by the Chinese blue, which is a much brighter colour, Prussian blue being darker and heavier looking, and is a very bad colour for glazing.

DUTCH PINK.

This is a common but very useful colour. It is a preparation of whiting and quercitron bark, and is used in making greens, no other colour answering the purpose so well. It is also very useful in mixing with chrome to produce the various shades of yellow required.

CHROME.

This is of various shades, varying from a light lemon colour to a deep orange approaching to a red. It is a useful colour; but, unless you get it genuine, it is very difficult to get it to work properly.

RAW OCHRE,

Or Oxford ochre in its native state. This may be used in certain proportions for making olive tints combined with Dutch pink and blue or black. It is also of use in small quantities to mix with yellow when it is inclined to run off, this colour being of a very adhesive nature.

DROP IVORY-BLACK.

This colour cannot be well used alone. It may, therefore, be called only an auxiliary to others.

VEGETABLE-BLACK.

This is a superior kind of lamp-black, but prepared from vegetable instead of animal matter. It is surprisingly light, and cannot be used alone, and will not produce a black for marbling except in combination with double its weight of good Indigo.

TURKEY UMBER, BURNT.

This colour produces a very good brown, but it is not required if you have the burnt Oxford ochre, as, with the aid of that colour and a little indigo and black, any shade of brown may be produced.

ORANGE LEAD.

This is a very heavy colour, and is but little used, except for the edges of account books.

WHITE.

For this an article called China clay is used; also, for some purposes, the common pipe-clay.

GUM.

Of all the varieties of gum, there is but one that is of any use to the marbler, and that is called gum-tragacanth or gum-dragon. Too much care cannot be exercised in the choice of this article, as much of the excellence of the work depends upon it. It should be large, white, and flaky. Occasionally there will be found some very good in small white flakes; but let that in dark brown lumps be rejected at once, no matter at what price it may be offered. If used at all, it would only do for the most common kind of work; but there is, in reality, no saving in an inferior article, as one pound of a really good sort will go as far as two of a bad, and produce a far more satisfactory result. Good gum ought to dissolve in cold water; it requires at least forty-eight hours soaking, being well stirred about at intervals; but some gums take longer to dissolve. Good gum will produce a smooth surface, but bad gum will often yield a rough one, which is inimical to the purpose. Again, some will give a smooth surface, and yet possess no strength; the colours will flow well upon it and form properly, and, when the paper is taken off, will look, at first, very beautiful, but upon looking at it five or ten minutes after it has been hung up, the colours will be found running off, causing indescribable annoyance and mortification.

DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING THE GUM.

Procure a large earthen pan, glazed on the inside, capable of containing from eight to twelve gallons of water. Put therein one pound of gum-tragacanth, and on it pour about two gallons of soft water. Stir it every few hours with a clean birch broom kept expressly for the purpose, breaking the lumps and adding more water as it thickens or absorbs that previously put in. In about forty-eight hours you may venture to use it; but seventy-two hours would be better. Some gum is all the better for a longer period, as, although a considerable portion of the gum may be dissolved, yet the best properties of it are not extracted till the whole is dissolved. It must be strained through a fine hair sieve before using, and if any lumps remain, put them back into the pan until they are all dissolved.

OF LINSEED.

It is possible to marble some patterns on mucilage of linseed, but it is a very objectionable vehicle to work upon, and can never be made to produce a satisfactory result. It is made either by boiling one quart of linseed in six or eight gallons of water, or by pouring the boiling water upon the linseed and stirring it until it extracts the mucilaginous properties of the seed; but it very soon decomposes or turns to water.

CARRAGEEN, OR IRISH MOSS.

This is an article used by some, and can be dispensed with altogether: it is not a necessary article. When used, it should be picked (the white being the best) and well washed; then set it to simmer in a gentle heat for an hour or two, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and it will be ready for use; but it will require a portion of the solution of gum-tragacanth to be able to do much with it.

FLEA-SEED.

This is an article but little known except to those who have occasion to use it. It is a small, brown, hard seed, in size, shape, and colour closely resembling the annoying little insect whose name it bears, and from which it may possibly derive its appellation. It produces a very strong and powerful mucilage—far stronger than that which can be obtained from linseed; and what enhances its value is that it will not so soon lose its strength or turn to water, but will keep several days. It is a great assistant, mixed with gum, in the making of French and Spanish marbles, but is a total enemy to nonpareil and drawn patterns.

To prepare it, put a quarter of a pound of the seed into a pan, pour upon it a gallon of boiling water, keep it well stirred for ten minutes, and let it stand for half an hour; then stir it again for ten minutes more, and in another half-hour add another gallon of boiling water, stirring it as before, at intervals, for one hour; after which let it remain, and the seed will settle at the bottom of the pan. When cold, pour off the top for use, and the seed will bear more boiling water, though not so much as at first. Sometimes the seed will yield a third extract; but this must be determined by your judgment, as the seed, when exhausted, will lose its viscid property, and must then be thrown away. The seed should never be stirred up after it has cooled, for it will settle without being again heated or having more boiling water added to it.

OX-GALL.

The surest way of obtaining this article genuine is by procuring it in the bladder as it is taken from the animal, if you are acquainted with any butcher upon whom you can depend. The gall from some animals is very thick, but will, after keeping some time, get thin, without at all losing its properties; in fact, gall is all the better for being kept, and is none the worse for a strong smell.

WATER.

Soft or rain water, when it can be procured, is the best adapted for all the preparations in marbling.

OF THE PREPARATIONS OR VEHICLES REQUIRED
FOR MARBLING UPON.