Wageman del. E. Finden sc.

JAMES HOLMAN, R.N.-F.R.S.

“Total eclipse! nor Sun, nor Moon;

All dark amidst the blaze of noon.”

THE
Narrative
OF
A JOURNEY,
UNDERTAKEN
IN THE YEARS 1819, 1820, & 1821,
THROUGH
FRANCE, ITALY, SAVOY, SWITZERLAND,
PARTS OF GERMANY BORDERING ON THE RHINE, HOLLAND, AND THE NETHERLANDS;
COMPRISING
INCIDENTS
THAT OCCURRED TO THE AUTHOR, WHO HAS LONG SUFFERED UNDER A TOTAL DEPRIVATION OF SIGHT;
With various points of Information collected on his Tour.

BY JAMES HOLMAN, R. N. & K. W.

“Cæcus iter monstrare velit: tamen aspice si quid

Et nos, quod cures proprium fecisse, loquamur.” Hor.

FOURTH EDITION.

LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY G. B. WHITTAKER, AVE MARIA LANE.
1825.

THE
Dedication.

TO
HER ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE
PRINCESS AUGUSTA.

Madam,

If there be any one circumstance peculiarly gratifying to myself, as the Author of the present Narrative, it is the permission I have received to dedicate it to your Royal Highness.

The kind manner in which this honour has been conferred, cannot fail to increase the value of the boon, and strengthen the ties of gratitude by which I felt bound to your Royal Highness, for the flattering notice, and important favours, you had previously been pleased to bestow upon me.

I beg to assure your Royal Highness, that it will ever be the proudest feeling of my heart, that my very humble production should have been ushered into public notice, under the auspices of a Patroness, whose exalted virtues have secured her universal esteem and respect, and made her the admiration of that sex, of which she is the distinguished and presiding ornament.

With every sentiment of devotion, I am,

Madam,

Your Royal Highness’s

Much obliged and very obedient Servant,

JAMES HOLMAN.

PREFACE.

The very peculiar circumstances under which the Author professes to obtrude the present volume upon public notice, appear to require some explanation, were it only to obviate suspicions which might arise, that the general detail of circumstances which it comprises, has been the production of an active imagination, rather than a relation of the occurrences of real life; for he is fully aware, that such a construction might be put upon the apparent anomaly of the travels of one, whose loss of sight, a source of information naturally considered indispensable in such an undertaking, must greatly limit his power of acquiring the legitimate materials, necessary to give his work body and consistency.

On this account, it may not be superfluous, to enter upon a brief history of his misfortune, as introductory to an explanation of the motives which have influenced him in bringing forward the present publication.

Destined to the naval service of his country, his exclusive attention, for some years, was devoted to the attainment of that professional knowledge, which he hoped might lead to honourable distinction; how far these views were likely to have been crowned with success, it will now be useless to state; it is sufficient to say, that at the age of twenty-five, while in the very bloom of expectation, his prospects were irrecoverably blighted by the effects of an illness, resulting from his professional duties, and which left him deprived of all the advantages of “heavens prime decree,”—wholly—and, he fears, permanently blind.

“Total eclipse! nor sun; nor moon;

All dark amidst the blaze of noon.”

After the distressing feelings which accompanied the first shock of this bodily privation, had in some measure subsided, the active mind began to seek occupation and amusement, amongst the many resources which a beneficent Providence had still left uncurtailed. These he has happily found, not only abundant, but apparently inexhaustible; and the lapse of ten years, has not merely softened down the sense of misfortune, but even reconciled him to an affliction, which some view as the severest that can befal humanity.

“⸺though sight be lost,

Life yet hath many solaces, enjoyed

Where other senses want not their delights.”

Amongst the various pursuits which have served to cheer, and sooth him throughout this protracted day of darkness, the book of nature has been largely opened to his mental view; nor has he failed to cultivate the pleasing fields of literature; and he may exclaim with our admired poet, when he so pathetically bewails the loss of this most precious organ:

“So thick a drop serene hath quenched their orbs,

Or dim suffusion veiled; yet not the more

Cease I to wander where the Muses haunt

Clear spring, or shady grove, or sunny hill.”

In time he began to acquire greater facility of locomotion than he could have anticipated, and which was succeeded by an almost irresistible inclination to visit different parts of his native country, in quest of knowledge or amusement; notwithstanding the limited information, which it may be imagined he would thus derive, he found the impressions produced, afford him not only present, but permanent gratification. To some, this may appear incredible; it must, however, not be forgotten, that the loss of one sense, is uniformly compensated by superior powers of those that remain unimpaired, in consequence of their being more called into action; and it is well known, that the sense of touch, in particular, acquires so great a delicacy, as to afford degrees of information, which under ordinary states it is incapable of: besides this advantage, he acquired an undefinable power, almost resembling instinct, which he believes in a lively manner gives him ideas of whatever may be going forward externally.

In the year 1819, his health having for some time suffered from causes which it is unnecessary to mention, the Author became assured that nothing would tend more to re-establish it, than a visit to the highly favoured clime of the southern parts of Europe: while at the same time, and which was, perhaps, paramount to all other considerations, he would be gratifying his desire of obtaining information; he therefore, with this double view, determined to undertake the journey which forms the subject of the present pages;—and is happy to say, that in neither of these objects has he met with disappointment.

It may be more difficult to assign satisfactory reasons, for laying before his readers the various incidents which befel him, in this pursuit of health and occupation; for he is not vain enough to imagine, that they could feel interested in his acquisition of the one, or participate with him in the enjoyment of the other.

The compilation was, in the first instance, entered upon as a matter of employment and selfish pleasure. None but those who have travelled through countries, and amidst circumstances novel to them, can appreciate the delight experienced from recalling in this way the interesting points of an interesting journey, and fighting as it were, their battles over again. On shewing a portion of the notes thus collected to his friends, their too kind partiality (for such he fears it has been) induced them to think that if published, they might not prove wholly unacceptable to the public, and their solicitations and assurances at length determined him to adopt their suggestions.

The Author will not profess to be ignorant of the presumptuous nature of his attempt; or unconscious of the numerous deficiencies and inaccuracies with which his work abounds; many of these are necessarily attributable to the disadvantages under which he has laboured; his very outset was amidst unfavourable circumstances, as he was then almost wholly unacquainted with that language, which could alone enable him to acquire the information he was seeking for: this must be his apology for the want of observation and incident, which are more particularly manifest throughout the first months of his residence in France.

The want of vision must frequently make his observations and descriptions imperfect; to compensate for this, he has availed himself of such intelligence as he could derive from others; and, for the same reasons, has introduced a variety of extracts from interesting authors, which appeared desirable to elucidate or enliven his narrative.

He rests his chief hope of the approbation of the public, upon having given a plain and faithful statement of a journey, which must be regarded as possessing a degree of originality, arising from the peculiar circumstances under which it was accomplished.

He now concludes his prefatory matter, by soliciting the indulgence of his readers, and entreating them not to criticise with too much severity, a work which, he trusts, has some claims upon their forbearance; and which, if it happens to repay their perusal by any pleasurable emotion, or to excite a kind sympathy for his own situation, will have answered the fullest expectation of its author.

Windsor,
May 1st, 1822.

THE
NARRATIVE,
&c.

CHAP. I.
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND, AND JOURNEY TO PARIS.

My friends expressed considerable surprise, when I announced my actual determination to undertake a continental tour, and I believe many of them, to the last moment, were inclined to doubt whether I seriously intended it; they did not fail to question how I proposed, with my personal defects, to make progress through a strange country, unaccompanied by even a servant to assist and protect me, and with an almost total ignorance of the languages of the various people I was about to visit. I urged in reply, that the experience of more than twenty years, during which I had been, as it were, a citizen of the world, and a great part of which had been spent in foreign climes, would be sufficient to direct me through the common occurrences and incidents, to which the traveller is exposed; that for the rest, I was content to leave it to God, upon whose protection, in the midst of dangers, I had the most implicit reliance, and under whose providential guidance, I doubted not to attain the completion of the various objects of my journey, remembering, as Cowper happily expresses it, that

“To reach the distant coast,

The breath of Heaven must swell the sail,

Or all our toil is lost.”

It may be difficult to say, under what description of traveller I proposed to class myself. Sterne enumerates the following species of the wandering tribe. “Idle travellers; inquisitive travellers; lying travellers; proud travellers; vain travellers; splenetic travellers; travellers of necessity; the delinquent and felonious traveller; the unfortunate and innocent traveller; the simple traveller; and last of all (if you please), the sentimental traveller.” Now I do not think any of these titles strictly applicable to myself; I shall not, however, attempt to determine the point, but leave it to the courteous reader to apply that which he may consider most appropriate.

I reached Dover on the evening of the 14th of October, 1819, and on the following morning embarked with a fair wind for Calais. This day is the more remarkable to me, as being, in addition to the present incident, the anniversary of my birth, as well as the same day of the year in which, after my loss of sight, I first set out for Edinburgh, to commence a course of studies at that celebrated university. In little more than three hours we arrived off the harbour of Calais, when the tide not answering for our making the pier, a boat came out for the mail, and I availed myself of the opportunity of going on shore; for this earlier accommodation I was charged five francs, a sum nearly equal to half the fare across the channel.

Behold me, then, in France! surrounded by a people, to me, strange, invisible, and incomprehensible; separated from every living being who could be supposed to take the least interest in my welfare, or even existence; and exposed to all the influence of national prejudice, which is said to prompt this people to take every advantage of their English neighbours. To counteract these disadvantages, I had nothing but the common feelings of humanity, assisted by the once boasted politesse of the great nation, and which might be expected to operate in favour of an afflicted stranger.

My commencement however proved auspicious, for I found an English valet-de-place, or commissionaire, on the pier, who assisted me through the ceremonials of the Custom-house, where they did me the favour to take two francs as a remuneration for their trouble in inspecting my luggage. He then conducted me to the Grand Cerf Hotel; and after I had taken refreshment, went with me to facilitate my inquiries respecting the diligences to Paris, for which place I proposed setting off on the following morning. After this, we extended our walk through the town, and visited the ramparts and banks of the canal to St. Omer.

On returning to the Hotel, I partook for the first time of a French dinner; and, the commissionaire having left me, had the advantage of being waited upon by Paul the garçon, who did not understand one word of English; I had no little difficulty in getting through the routine of this important repast. Afterward I repeated my walk through the town, and on my return was surprised to learn that a person had been enquiring for me. It proved to be the waiter of the Hotel where I had breakfasted at Dover, who had crossed the channel in pursuit of a French gentleman who had taken his breakfast at the same table with me, and whom a friend of mine had endeavoured to interest in my favour. This gentleman had received from the waiter a ten pound note in exchange instead of a smaller one, and the latter was anxious to recover his lost property. I was sorry that I could give him no satisfactory information, for notwithstanding he had promised to shew me all possible attention before leaving Dover, and even regretted he could not give me a place in his carriage to Paris, he kept himself quite aloof after getting on shipboard, so that in short I heard no more of him.

In the evening Virginie, the fille de chambre, attended to put me to bed, and appeared literally to have expected to assist in the various operations of disrobing, &c. I was, however, enabled, through the medium of the commissionaire, to assure her, that it was quite unnecessary to give her that trouble. So, dismissing my attendants with the candle, I secured the door, and retired to rest.

In the morning I arose early, and inhaled the fresh breeze upon the pier, a wooden structure, which extends itself for a considerable distance into the sea. At the extremity near the town, is a pillar, erected by the loyal people of Calais, in commemoration of the landing of Louis XVIII. immediately after the first subjection of Napoleon, and near to it a brass plate, with the figure of a foot cast in it, fixed upon the very spot where this monarch first trod the French ground, after so long an absence from his affectionate subjects.

Breakfast was scarcely concluded, when it became necessary to take my place in the diligence for Paris; I occupied a seat in the cabriolet, which, in this coach, was unusually large, being sufficiently commodious to accommodate six persons, and where I had the pleasure of finding two of my countrymen, each with a son, proceeding to some school near Paris.

It may be worth while to mention, that upon the information of my commissionaire, I had paid forty-five francs for my fare. This was indeed the regular charge, but I have found, by taking advantage of certain opposition carriages, the expense might have been materially lessened. One of my companions, in fact, had bargained for forty francs for himself and his son; and the other had secured his two places for thirty-five only.

The usual hour for the departure of the diligence was ten o’clock; but we anticipated this time, and set out at half-past nine, in consequence of its being a fête day, when the gates of the town are closed from ten till noon, during the performance of high mass.

About two o’clock we reached Boulogne, where we dined, and took into our vacant place a journeyman bootmaker, who was going to Paris. We now proceeded without stopping, except to change horses, until midnight, when we reached Abbeville. On arriving at this place, the passengers in the body of the coach, which, cumbrous as it was, had but two wheels, hastily and unexpectedly jumping out, without apprising the cabriolet, the whole weight of ourselves and the carriage was thrown forward, to such excess, upon the backs of the horses, that, unable to sustain the pressure, they sunk under it, and were with difficulty raised again.

We were at this place thankful for a refreshment of cold meat and wine, as we had tasted nothing since leaving Boulogne, except some sour apples, which our young gentlemen had knocked down on the sides of the road; it was necessary, however, to disturb three or four houses before we succeeded in procuring it.

The morning gave us “token of a goodly day.” At eleven o’clock we halted for breakfast at Beauvais, and were apprised that an excellent one, a la fourchette, was prepared at the hotel where our carriage rested; but the party agreeing to give the preference to coffee, the bootmaker offered to conduct us where we should get it both good and cheap. We consented to follow him, and were regaled with a large bowl of coffee, with as much milk, sugar, and toasted bread, as we pleased; for which they charged us at the extraordinary rate of five sous per head.

At noon we pursued our journey, and at seven in the evening arrived at Paris. When the business of the coach was arranged, the conducteur walked with me to the Hotel de Suede, near the Palais-Royal, to which I had been recommended.

CHAP. II.
PARIS.

While supper was in preparation, I walked to the Rue de la Paix, to call upon a lady whom I had known in England, and was at first surprised to learn, it being Sunday evening, that she was gone to a ball; but it is the custom in France to participate in amusements on Sunday more than on any other day in the week. It rejoiced me, however, to know, that my friend was in Paris.

At supper, the maitre d’hotel, a Swede, but acquainted with the English language, waited upon me himself, and enumerated with such encomiums his fine stock of wine, that I could do no less than order a bottle of Burgundy, which I found deliciously refreshing; and thought it economical enough, as it was charged only two francs.

In consequence of the fatigue which I had experienced on my journey, I was glad to retire early to bed. On entering my chamber, I could not but be impressed by its cold comfortless feel; the floor was of stone, the tables marble, the wash-hand basin long, oval, and shallow, like an old fashioned salad dish, and all the furniture of correspondent antiquity. But I had determined not to give way to gloomy reflections; therefore, I wished my host a good night, and being left to myself, soon regained that contented frame of mind, which is indispensable to those who mean to pass smoothly, and happily, through this scene of mortality. On the present occasion I convinced myself that I had every reason to be grateful to that Power, which had so far conducted me in safety through my journey, and whose blessings and mercies have been so largely, I may say incessantly, extended over me.

A part of the succeeding morning was appropriated to calling upon friends for whom I had letters. The one I first inquired for was gone to the south of France; but I had the pleasure of meeting with my old shipmate L⸺ and a friend of his, both of whom had been fellow students with me in Edinburgh. I then repeated my visit to Miss L⸺, at whose house I had called on the preceding evening, and found she had returned that call during my absence; she expressed much surprise and pleasure at seeing me, and engaged me to dine with her on the following day.

I returned to our table d’hôte dinner, and had the unexpected pleasure of finding there a friend whom I had left in Bath the previous spring. There was also another English gentleman at table, who invited me to walk with him to the Palais-Royal. We accordingly took our coffee at one of the numerous caffés, with which that quarter abounds. My companion was a stranger in Paris as well as myself; in consequence of which we contrived to lose our way, and had considerable difficulty in regaining our hotel; we escaped, however, all the dangers, and supercheries, of this very notorious place.

On Tuesday morning, my friend L⸺ called, for the express purpose of accompanying me to inquire after the conveyances to Bordeaux. We were informed, that two coaches leave Paris daily for that place; one at three o’clock, from the Messagerie-Royal, running by way of Tours, where it rests on the second night for a few hours, and occupying four days, and as many nights, in the journey, the fare sixty francs; the other taking the route of Orleans, five days on the road, and the fare fifty francs. The former is considered the best appointed, and the roads and hotels, with which it is connected, much preferable.

But, as it cannot fail to be irksome to travel three or four hundred miles at one sitting, with the exception of the short rest at Tours, I would recommend the English traveller to accomplish some part of his journey in a voiture de voyage, and then rest for a day or two; or perhaps he might, in the first instance, take a place in a regular coach, termed a jumeaux, which travels to Tours in two days; after which the journey may be prosecuted to Poitiers in a voiture or diligence, where the chance must be taken of being carried forward to Bordeaux in the same manner.

After this inquiry, I had to keep my appointment for dinner with Miss L⸺, where I met a young lady, her niece, who resided with her, and Colonel M⸺, a gentleman to whom my friend was on the point of marriage. I enjoyed my visit much, but took leave at an early hour, under the promise of breakfasting with her, at twelve in the morning, a la fourchette.

This lady was anxious that, instead of leaving Paris immediately for Bordeaux, as I had intended, I should place myself for a week in a boarding-house, with a view of gaining, before I commenced so long a journey, some slight acquaintance with the French language. This advice appeared so excellent, that I determined to follow it; and after breakfast, Miss L⸺ was kind enough to accompany me to a house which she recommended, and where I immediately took up my residence.

I should feel myself inexcusable, if I neglected, in this place, to express the lively sense I entertain, of the many kind attentions, which I received from this amiable lady, and which rather indicated the affectionate regards of a sister, than the notices of an accidental acquaintance. I regretted that this was the last opportunity I had of seeing her in Paris, as she was obliged immediately to leave town for Fontainbleau, and did not return before my departure.

“Sweet friendship, solace of mankind,

Come! with thy presence warm my heart,

And when a kindred soul I find,

Oh never, never let us part.

They call thee changing, sordid, vain,

On earth scarce known, and rare to see;

And when they feel base treach’ry’s pain,

They lay the heavy blame on thee.

’Tis true there are whom interest blind,

That prostitute thy sacred name;

Their souls to narrow views confined,

They never felt thy noble flame.”

During the week I remained in Mr. Fetherstone’s boarding-house, the weather was wet and cold, so that we were much confined within doors; but as our party consisted of twenty individuals, there was no want of amusement, and the continued intercourse necessarily kept up amongst us, tended materially to promote my object of acquiring the language. The following anecdote will serve to shew, how much I was in need of improvement in this respect.

On the morning after my entrance into this family, I rang the bell of my bed-chamber, and requested a French servant to bring me hot water; in answer to this he replied, “toute a l’heure,” with the meaning of which I was at the time totally ignorant: after waiting a quarter of an hour, I rang again, and received the same reply, “toute a l’heure,” but with no better result: I again repeated my application, it was still “toute a l’heure:” at length, after, the lapse of an hour, he brought the water. At breakfast, I took the opportunity of inquiring the signification of this convenient expression, requesting to be informed, whether it implied any specific time, when they told me it meant “immediately.” I thought, however, in the present instance, that the action did not suit the word.

It may be expected, that I should make some remarks concerning the Parisian theatres, and other places of amusement; however my ignorance of the language, and want of vision, as well as the state of the weather, diminished the ardour of the desires which I possessed, on entering Paris, to visit these scenes; however, the many recent accounts that have been published, leave me no cause to regret the omission. For similar reasons I am prevented from attempting any description of this grand city; and, therefore, in lieu of it, beg leave to offer the following laconic and popular petite chanson.

LE PORTRAIT DE PARIS.

Amour; marriage; divorce;

Naissance; mort; enterrement;

Fausse vertu; brillante écorce;

Petit esprit; grand sentiment;

Dissipateurs; prèteurs sur gages;

Hommes de lettres; financiers;

Financiers; créanciers; maltotiers, et rentiers;

Tiedes amis; femmes volages; riches galants;

Pauvres maris. Voilà Paris! Voilà Paris!

Là des commères qui bavardent;

Là des viellards; là des enfans;

Là des aveugles qui regardent

Ce que leur donnent les passant;

Restorateurs; apoticaires; commis; pedants;

Taileurs; voleurs; rimailleurs, ferrailleurs;

Aboyeurs; juges de paix, et gens de guerre;

Tendrons vendu, quittè, repris.

Voilà Paris! Voilà Paris!

Maints gazetiers; maints impostures;

Maints enneuyeux; maints ennuyés;

Beaucoup de fripons en voitures;

Beaucoup d’honnêtes gens à pied;

Les jeunes gens portent lunettes;

Le vieux visage rajeuni;

Rajeunis bien garnis, bien garnis de vernis;

Acteurs; ventes; marionettes; grand melodrames;

Plats ecris. Voilà Paris! Voilà Paris!

The week now drawing to a close, I prepared to quit Paris; in particular, I had my passport arranged, a point frequently attended with much trouble, as it must in the first instance be procured from the police, then presented for the signature of the English ambassador, after which it is returned to the police, and some other office, for their definitive signatures, before the individual is permitted to depart.

CHAP. III.
JOURNEY TO BORDEAUX.

Having engaged a place in the diligence, which took the way of Tours, in the afternoon of the 27th of October, I commenced my journey to Bordeaux, after bidding farewell

“To the few, I might leave with regret.”

In order to guard against the same irregularity of meals, which I had suffered from on my way to Paris, I took care to be provided with a tongue, fruit, and a bottle of wine. My companions were three Frenchmen, and of course I could anticipate little conversation, at least they were sure soon to find me a dead letter; but notwithstanding, I doubted not but that I should derive occupation and amusement from my own reflections, and determined to avail myself of all the opportunities of social intercourse which might offer themselves. As may be imagined, the afternoon passed off very silently on my part: at night I contrived to dose a little, and my companions accorded with me perfectly in this respect.

On the following day we dined at Blois, where they gave us some of the finest grapes I had yet partaken of in France. In the evening the weather proved rainy; at midnight we arrived at Tours, from whence, after resting a few hours, we proceeded on our journey at five o’clock in the morning; at eight o’clock we halted at a small town for breakfast, where I derived some gratification from meeting with a person who could speak English, an Irish horse-dealer, travelling with his string of horses from Rochelle to Paris.

We reached Poitiers for dinner, at the late hour of eight in the evening, but my companions did not appear to be annoyed at this late postponement of their favourite repast. It appears very immaterial to a Frenchman when he gets his meals, he is not only toujours prêt, but endures fasting with better grace by far than an Englishman. On the following day we passed through Limoges and Angoulême. In the afternoon of this day, we took up a woman and her daughter, aged about seventeen, with a child; these were the only females I had yet met with in a diligence in France, and I could not but feel irritated at the ungallant treatment they received from their countrymen. The young lady having placed herself in the seat of one of them, he very rudely insisted upon her restoring it: I regretted that I was unable to advocate her cause: but possibly this feeling might be dictated by some selfish motive, as a desire to resent certain indignities to which I had been subjected by the same individual, who frequently annoyed me with the fumes of his segar, and once had the impudence to puff them in my face; I felt not a little inclined to give him personal chastisement, but prudence restrained me.

About nine o’clock on the following morning, being Sunday, the 31st of October, one of our company exclaimed, “Voilà Bordeaux!” The sound revived me exceedingly, for I was become irritable and impatient, from the length and fatigue of the journey. At twelve o’clock the coach halted, and my fellow-passengers immediately jumped out, leaving me to shift for myself. Of course I concluded that we had arrived at the coach-office, and began to call loudly for the conducteur to come and assist me in getting out. He immediately presented himself, uttered the now well-known “toute a l’heure,” and left me. Although I perfectly recollected the unlimited signification of this word in Paris, what could I do? Had I jumped out, I should not have known what step to have taken next, and the rain was falling in torrents. There appeared no remedy, but to sit patiently until it might please some one to come to my assistance. In a while I heard at least thirty people around the coach, talking a loud and unintelligible gibberish, quite unlike any language of the country which I had hitherto heard; soon afterwards I perceived the carriage undergoing an extraordinary, and irregular kind of motion; the people occasionally opened the door, and made me move from one side to the other, as if they were using me for shifting ballast; I inferred that they were taking off the wheels, with a view of placing the carriage under cover. After this I became sensible of a noise of water splashing, as if they were throwing it from out of hollows, where it had collected in consequence of the rain. It was in vain that I endeavoured to gain an explanation of my being thus left behind in the coach, the only satisfaction I could derive was “tout a l’heure,” and the conviction that nothing remained for me but to be patient.

“But patience is more oft the exercise

Of saints, the trial of their fortitude.”

At length the motion began to increase, and to my great surprise, after an hour’s suspense, I heard the horses again attaching to the carriage; the passengers re-entered the coach, and we once more proceeded on our journey!

It was afterwards explained to me, that these unaccountable proceedings arose, on our having arrived on the banks of the river Dordogne, which enters the Garonne, near Bordeaux, from the necessity, at this point, of transporting the carriage on a raft for some distance down the stream; that the passengers had crossed the river in a ferry-boat, to a coach waiting for them on the other side, leaving me to float down with the carriage on the raft, or sink to the bottom as fate might determine; in short, I found that, while I supposed myself sitting in the coach-office yard at Bordeaux, I had actually travelled four miles by water, without having entertained the least idea of such an adventure.

In a quarter of an hour after this, we actually arrived at the coach office. On alighting, I was accosted by a man, who in the English language informed me, that he was a traiteur (or the keeper of an eating and lodging-house), and who did me the favour of recommending to me, in very strong terms, both his house and his wife; the latter, he said, was an American, spoke English well, and would provide me an excellent bed, as well as every thing else I might wish for; but as I had a particular introduction to a friend, I determined to decline these tempting offers, until I had consulted him: taking the traiteur’s card therefore, and requesting him to procure a hackney-coach, I drove straightway to the house of my friend, who recommended me to take lodgings in preference. I lost no time in adopting his suggestion, and taking immediate possession of my apartments, experienced the great luxury and refreshment of changing my dress, after four days’ uninterrupted travelling.

After this, my friend accompanied me to dine at a traiteur’s, first bargaining that we should be allowed to select any four dishes from the carte, for which, with a small bottle of wine, and pain a discrétion, we were to pay about fifteen-pence each. In the first place, we were served with soup in silver basins; then came an entré of ragoûts, and afterwards a roast chicken, followed by a dessert. When we had done, we gave the waiter three or four sous, with which he appeared highly satisfied.

On the following morning, at the urgent instance of my friend, I consulted an eminent oculist of this place, respecting my eyes, who appeared to entertain the same opinion as most of my medical attendants in England; namely, that a cataract existed, but not sufficiently matured, to be operated upon, with advantage, for the present. My friend, however, was not satisfied with this opinion, and insisted upon taking me to the wife of an umbrella-maker, famous for her skill in restoring sight, and who recommended a long course of herb medicines, and other nostrums; but I wanted faith in her power to serve me, and moreover, was satisfied with the opinions, in which my medical friends had concurred, as well as reconciled to my deprivation, and resigned to the will of Providence.

“Who finds not Providence all good and wise,

Alike in what it gives, and what denies.”—Pope.

My next attention, was to ascertain the modes of conveyance to Toulouse. We found that the diligence sets out every other day at ten in the morning, occupying two days, and two nights on the road, the fare forty-five francs; there was, however, also a voiture from Paris, leaving on the following morning, and which would be five days on the journey, resting always at night; and by the recommendation of my friend, I determined to give it the preference; in short, I was pleased with the idea of this new mode of travelling. An agreement in writing was drawn up, to which the proprietor affixed his signature, and according to which, amongst other stipulations, I was to be taken up from my lodgings, and provided, during my journey, with a bed-room to myself every night. We were informed that an officer and his wife were to be of the party, and the latter happening to be present, offered to render me every assistance in her power; this, I must admit, was an additional inducement with me, for the attentions of the softer sex are peculiarly acceptable under my present affliction; and it is but a just tribute to their kindness, to say, that I have abundantly experienced them; and farther, I am convinced that the sympathy I have so often met with, is perfectly congenial with the innate principles of the female character.

“Man may the sterner virtues know,

Determined justice, truth severe;

But female hearts with pity glow,

And woman holds affliction dear.”—Crabbe.

CHAP. IV.
JOURNEY TO TOULOUSE.

My stay in Bordeaux was too brief to enable me to acquire any knowledge of this ancient and celebrated city, nor indeed, had it been prolonged, do my inclinations, or powers, qualify me for topographical description; the chief object of the present narrative, being to relate the incidents of a journey, which at the time greatly interested me, and to give as faithful representations of men and manners, as the opportunities which presented themselves, and my personal disadvantages would admit of; in short, to

“Eye nature’s walks, shoot folly as it flies,

And catch the manners living as they rise.”

I was apprised by a porter, at three o’clock, that the voiture was in readiness, and after bustling to be in time, was by no means pleased to find that I had been disturbed an hour too soon; nor was my dissatisfaction diminished, when the porter, by signs, gave me to understand, that I must traverse the greater part of the city with him to the coach-office; it was in vain to remonstrate with a person who could not understand me, and insist upon the fulfilment of my agreement; at length, however, to cut short the argument, my conductor, with a mixture of passion and impatience, seized my portmanteau, and gave me to understand, that I had no alternative but to accompany him, or lose my passage. In fine, I was obliged to submit, and after half an hour’s walk, we reached the voiture in safety. The next measure was to place my portmanteau in security, and which, unless I had interfered, would have been exposed on the outside of the voiture. Travellers in France should always superintend the stowage of their luggage, as it is not unusual to have it stolen from the exterior of the carriage. Dr. O⸺, a gentleman, whom I had the pleasure of meeting in the summer of 1820, at Aix in Provence, in travelling from Lyons to Geneva, lost his trunk, containing valuable collections he had made in Italy, and other property, worth some thousand francs, from the outside of the diligence. He was induced to commence an action against the proprietors, either to stimulate them to recover his property, or to make them compensate his loss; but finding that, after a tedious and expensive process, the utmost he could recover, would be a thousand francs, he thought it most prudent to abandon it.

At length our arrangements being completed, the voiturier made the customary signal with his whip, and we bade adieu to Bordeaux.

One of the earliest, and most obvious attentions of the traveller in a public stage, is to reconnoitre his companions, and endeavour to ascertain whether it be possible to elicit information or amusement from them; the group with which I was now thrown into collision, was not unlikely to be productive of interest; I was soon convinced, from the nature of their conversation, that my companions were not of the genteelest stamp. The women were at home in speaking patois, and the only one who could not join in this, was the person who, I suppose from his wearing a large cocked-hat, had been taken for an officer, but who, I afterwards found, had been a bootmaker in one of Bonaparte’s cavalry regiments.

At ten o’clock we halted, and were regaled with a breakfast a la fourchette, consisting of soup bouillè, ragoûts, roasted fowls, and little birds; the compliments of the table were paid me; my companions did not sit down until I had nearly finished; and the voiturier placed himself by my side, serving me with every dish as it was brought in, and appearing to expect me to partake of all of them. I confined myself chiefly to the soup and rôti; the little birds would have relished well, had not a slice of bacon placed on the breast of each, destroyed their natural flavour.

At one o’clock we recommenced our journey, and at six in the evening, reached our resting place for the night. After a delay of two hours, a profuse supper was served up in regular courses, and concluded by a dessert of grapes, pruins, apples, pears, nuts, and small sponge cakes. I was not a little surprised at their mode of cooking a cauliflower which I had inquired for; after a great many “toute a l’heure’s,” it made its appearance, boiled as soft as batter, and mixed up with oil, vinegar, and pepper, like a salad!

The wine was excellent, and the glass circulated freely. Who thought I, would not travel in a voiture, to live thus cheerily, and at so trifling an expense, for it will scarcely appear credible, that the proprietor had engaged to convey me to Toulouse, a distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles, occupying five days on the journey, and providing me with every necessary, beds included, for thirty-five francs, equal to about five shillings and ten pence English money per day!

Our supper party consisted of nine or ten persons, not indeed of the most select kind, but I had no right to complain, as with a view of avoiding trouble, and imposition, and at the same time, with some prospect of deriving gratification from the melange of characters I expected to meet with, I had engaged to put up with the general fare.

My companions appeared to enjoy their repast, and every additional glass evidently produced increased animation, as they talked louder and faster. They were, however, particularly attentive to myself, my want of sight probably exciting their sympathy.

At length, fatigued with the scene, I gave them to understand that I wished to retire, and was conducted to a chamber which was furnished with several beds, and had the pleasure of finding the one that had been selected for my repose, good and commodious. But an important dilemma now presented itself: taking the fille-de-chambre by the hand, in order to ascertain that she was carrying the candle away with her, a point I am always particular in attending to, as, when it has been left behind, I have occasionally burnt my fingers, and once even made an extinguisher of my chin; and then making a motion to lock her out, that I might, according to the especial clause in my agreement to that effect, appropriate the room entirely to myself, I was surprised to find her as strenuously oppose this measure, as most of the fair sex, I have no doubt, would an attempt to lock them in. It was useless endeavouring to comprehend her meaning, and only by returning to the supper-room, did I learn, that the room in question, was intended for the accommodation of the whole party. It is not easy to conceive the confusion which ensued, on my evincing a steady determination not to pass the night by the side of the conducteur, or even the ladies of our party; I persisted, however, in my resolution, and folding my arms, and closing my eye-lids, reclined, in the posture of repose, in a large easy chair in which I happened to be placed.

At length, the bootmaker’s wife, taking me by the hand, conducted me to a single-bedded room, from which, after having assisted in my arrangements, and warmed my bed, she permitted me to lock her out.

I cannot but express myself grateful, for the interest this kind-hearted woman evinced in my favour, on the present occasion; but this is not the only time, that I have been indebted for support and success, to a fair advocate.

At four in the morning we were summoned by the conducteur, and the soldier’s wife kindly came to assist me down stairs. The party were assembled in the parlour, and fortifying themselves, against the fatigues of the day, with bread and brandy, but I gave the preference to some grapes. At eleven, we halted for breakfast, and, according to the usual custom, rested two hours in the middle of the day; after this we pursued our journey, the conducteur mounting under cover in front of the voiture, to protect him from the rain, which was falling heavily. About three o’clock, while proceeding so quietly, that it might almost be presumed, that not only the conducteur and his passengers, but the horses themselves were fast asleep, we were aroused by the very interesting incident of our whole equipage, including the horses, being overturned into a deep ditch. I shall not attempt to describe the noise and confusion which succeeded; the party were almost frantic with terror; at length, having succeeded in extricating ourselves from this unpleasant situation, I was placed for shelter under a large tree, while the rest assisted the conducteur in raising up the coach and horses. This operation took up half-an-hour, during which, I could hear our guide contributing abundantly, both with his whip and imprecations.

Fortunately no serious injury was sustained, and I felt strong reason to congratulate myself, for I had heard in the morning, that we were to cross the Garonne this afternoon, and my first impression was, that we were falling into this river; nor had I forgotten my adventures on the Dordogne.

The carriage being at length righted, the conducteur urged forward his jaded horses with little mercy, probably stimulated by revenge for the late occurrence, which was mainly attributable to his own negligence. At six o’clock we crossed the Garonne, and in consequence of delays and accidents, did not arrive at our auberge until eight o’clock, when we dispatched a hasty supper, and retired to bed. I here found the advantage of my resolution on the preceding evening, having an undisputed bed-room to myself.

We resumed our journey at the usual hour in the morning. Before we set out, the conducteur requested me to advance him a part of his fare, and which I believe is usual, if not generally necessary, as these people are so miserably poor, that, otherwise, they would be unable to bear the unavoidable expenses of the journey; but in my case, as it was agreed that he should be paid by my banker, on my safe arrival at Toulouse, he had no right to expect the indulgence. This arrangement had been adopted from my wish to have it supposed that I was travelling without money, notwithstanding, I had the precaution, as a resource against accidents, not only to have a few napoleons in my portmanteau, but also some in a girdle round my waist, so that I had a double chance of not being left destitute.

In the present case, in order to put this surly fellow into good humour, I thought well to advance him a couple of five franc pieces, but without producing the effect I had anticipated; for finding myself suffering from headach, which I attributed to want of due exercise, I made signs for him to halt, while I might get out of the coach, with the intention of walking for a time; he only, however, replied, with much coolness, “toute a l’heure;” and notwithstanding my repeated request, was quite indisposed to accommodate me, until I manifested my intention of jumping out: he now thought well to stop his horses, and proffer his assistance; however, I refused it, and succeeded in finding the back part of the coach, where I secured my hold by means of a piece of cord (which when travelling I make a rule to carry always in my pocket), and which, in the present instance, served me as a leading string; I then followed, in this way, on foot for several miles, to the no small amusement of the villagers, who laughed heartily, and even shouted after me. I had, however, the satisfaction of getting rid of my headach, and succeeded in completely tiring myself. We did not reach our breakfast point before two o’clock, and proceeding again at four, arrived proportionately late at the end of the day’s journey.

The succeeding morning proved remarkably fine, and we prosecuted our journey with additional pleasure. I found the conducteur more humble, and my companions, in general, more attentive to me than usual. The advantage I had derived from exercise on the preceding day determined me to walk again, and the bootmaker civilly offered me his arm. After proceeding some distance, he proposed entering a wine-shop, to which I assented; we tried three, however, before we found any wine to our taste: in consequence of the time thus lost, the voiture got considerably the start of us, so that we were obliged to exert ourselves to regain it.

On producing our wine, the provision-bags were also brought forward; we became merry as gypsies, and my cocked-hat friend particularly facetious. Soon after one o’clock, we arrived, in high glee, at our breakfasting-place, where we found a voiture full of students, on their way to the university of Toulouse. These young gentlemen paid me a marked attention during our repast, assisting me liberally to the produce of the table, and replenishing my glass before it was empty. When the voiture was ready, I walked forward with the soldier’s wife, who appeared a far more respectable woman, than from her situation in life might have been expected. I now learnt, partly by words, and partly by signs, the situation and circumstances of her husband; that subsequently to the peace, he had attempted to support himself in Germany by his trade; but difficulties arising, he was removing to Toulouse, her native place, in hopes of proving more successful.

In the course of our walk, we ascended a considerable hill, from which, my companion informed me, the prospect was most extensive and beautiful. The air at this spot I found so soft, balmy, and exhilarating, that I felt assured I had now reached the south of France. After crossing a river, at seven o’clock we reached our quarters for the evening. The students had preceded us, and in consequence of their occupying the attention of the house, we had to wait a long time for our supper.

On the following morning we resumed our journey in high spirits, from the prospect of arriving at Toulouse in the evening. We reached Agen for breakfast, which I understood to be a very fine city: I was at this place so much charmed with the manners and attentions of some young ladies at the inn, that I admit I did not depart without regret. Had I the same talents for acquiring languages, as Joseph Scaliger, who was a native of this place, possessed, I might by this time have known sufficient of the French to have benefitted by the agreeable conversation of these ladies. At six in the evening we entered Toulouse, and were set down at a miserable inn, termed the Three Mules.

While our supper was getting ready, I went, under protection of the soldier’s wife, to call upon Mrs. W⸺, a lady who had kindly offered to assist in procuring me a reception, for the winter, in some respectable French family. I was fortunate enough to find her at home; when she expressed much surprise at the manner in which I had travelled so far, and informed me, that preparatory arrangements had been made for my residence in the family of Colonel du B⸺. In returning to the inn we experienced some embarrassment; for my conductress had been so long absent from her native city, that we had much difficulty, in consequence of the narrowness and intricacy of the streets, in finding our way back to the inn.

After supper I was conducted to one of the most comfortless rooms that could be imagined; every thing felt so damp, so antiquated, and dusty: some of the chairs were without legs, others without backs; and the windows were broken: but as there was no remedy, I was obliged to make the best of it, and congratulated myself on having reached my destined winter residence, and thus far, negatived the doubts, and kind apprehensions of my friends.

CHAP. V.
TOULOUSE.

On the following morning, Mr. F⸺, a friend of Mrs. W⸺’s, called upon me, to state the full particulars of the arrangements for my reception into the family of Colonel du B⸺, to whom I was to be introduced on the morrow; and in the evening, this kind lady sent two gentlemen to conduct me to her residence, when I had the pleasure of being introduced to a small circle of her acquaintance.

In the morning, Mr. F⸺ called upon me, in company with Colonel du B⸺, when it was settled, that I was to become an inmate, in the family of the latter, on the following day. These gentlemen did me the favour to settle for my journey with the voiturier, and gave him a severe reprimand for his want of humanity; and I took the opportunity of convincing the soldier’s wife, who was present, of my sense of her kindness.

I now soon found myself happily situated in the house of Colonel du B⸺, with whom I proposed to remain, until the approach of spring might invite me to pursue my tour, and under the expectation, in the interim, of improving my health, and acquiring a knowledge of the French language. The former point was admirably promoted by the kind attentions, and domestic arrangements, of Madame du B⸺; the latter would not fail to result from so extended a residence in a family wholly unacquainted with English, and where necessity, and the force of habit, must concur in instructing me. I cannot, however, but acknowledge the patient assistance which I received from the whole family; and my views were also promoted by a pretty regular attendance on the lectures delivered at the royal college of this place.

Our domestic circle consisted of M. and Madame du B⸺, their two sons and daughters, with the father and a sister of Madame B⸺. Madame B⸺ was what, in England, we should call a notable woman, who superintended personally the arrangements of housekeeping. The colonel possessed a mechanical taste, which with reading constituted his leading pursuit; he was a hearty feeder, with, however, a supposed indifferent appetite; for instance, he would breakfast, about noon, upon an immense quantity of bread and cold meat, hard dried sausages, or rich fromage de cochon, with a large bottle of wine, and afterward complain of a disinclination for his dinner.

But perhaps the more interesting feature of the family group, was Mademoiselle la Sœur. This lady, somewhat advanced beyond the noontide of life, was a diminutive woman, with one eye, and largely attached to the charms of tabac, which contributed to give her voice a strong nasal tone; but in addition to this penchant for snuff, she enjoyed also the pleasures of the table; was fond of high-seasoned dishes, onions, garlic, and wine; her converse was of the merry kind; she was fond of whispering into one’s private ear; and with these talents, seemed also wonderfully adapted for sociality, as she cultivated a large circle of acquaintance in the town, and made it a rule to return with a whole budget full of news for our amusement.

Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France, but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as modern private houses, but the general appearance is very antiquated; the streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great annoyance in walking along them, when it rains you are almost sure to be spouted upon from the tops of the houses, in consequence of pipes sticking out to conduct the water towards the middle of the streets.

There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place Royal, in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place St. George; the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and also the Place de Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more eligible point for the residence of a stranger.

Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to them unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding from the narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as you approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.

Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries of life, of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied with water from the river; this indispensable article being carted about in casks through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also notice a number of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply invalids with their milk.

I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both the French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not, however, the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or give dinner parties, but their houses are open for their friends every evening, and on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and amuse themselves with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.

A theatre was open during a part of the winter, and we had two or three public concerts, as well as a variety of private ones by amateur performers, particularly during the season of the carnival, which finished on the 14th of February, and exhibited all its usual variety of masks, grotesque characters, and buffoonery; these concerts were only given on the Sunday afternoon.

There are a few customs, and points of etiquette, which it may be interesting to notice.

When a stranger arrives at Toulouse, and wishes to enter into society, he leaves his card with the prefect, who, after returning his call, sends him invitations to the public parties, which he gives once or twice in the week, when he has the opportunity of seeing the best company of the place.

On new-years-day, it is the custom (although I believe the same is common to most parts of the continent) to call on all friends, and present the ladies with fruits, toys, trinkets, or bon-bons, under some ingenious deceptions, and which it is generally expected, will be accompanied by a salute; therefore if you have an extensive acquaintance, it is indispensable to set out, at an early hour, loaded with smiles, compliments, and presents.

I scarcely feel competent to speak of the various ceremonies of the Gallican church here, but when an Englishman dies, it is customary to send the following notice, to the various residents from his country, requesting their attendance at the funeral.

“M⸺

Vous êtes prié par M⸺ et M⸺ de leur faire l’honneur d’assister à l’inhumation de M⸺ qui aura lieu le ⸺ à ⸺ heure du ⸺. Le convoi sortira de sa maison d’habitation.

Pax illi ⸺”

There is only one burial ground for Protestants, at Toulouse, situated at some distance from the city.

Early in February, the news arrived of the death of our late venerable and beloved king; the intelligence was received by the English in this place, with every possible mark of respect, and a public mourning immediately took place.

Soon afterward, the city of Toulouse was thrown into a high state of consternation, in consequence of the assassination of the Duc de Berri; the imaginations of the inhabitants recurred to the sanguinary scenes of the French revolution, in which this town had no small share, and anticipated a return of its horrors. After this event, the following invitation was addressed to the various English residents:

“Eglise reformée de Toulouse. Nos tres chers frères en Jesus Christ.

Vous avez tous gémis sur l’horrible attentat commis sur la personne de S. A. R. Monseigneur Le Duc de Berri, attentat qui a privé la France et l’auguste famille des Bourbons, de leur espoir le plus précieux; nous vous invitons à vous rendre vendredi 24 de ce mois, à onze heure du matin, dans le temple, pour exprimer, devant Dieu, la vive douleur que nous en èprouvons.

Les Membres du Consistoire.
CHABRAND, President, &c. &c. &c.”

Toulouse, le 22 Mars, 1820.

This city abounds with beggars, many of them objects of real charity; as it is impossible that persons with limited incomes, can afford a sous for each, it is not unusual to give them one, and take change out of it.

The winter proved unusually severe; from the middle of November to the end of December, it continued wet; from this time to the latter part of February, it was excessively cold; and at the end of January, the ground was covered with snow for a fortnight together. For an uninterrupted week, during some part of the twenty-four hours, Fahrenheit’s thermometer stood at from 9° to 11° below Zero. The Garonne for the first time for thirty years, was frozen over, the ice being found to the thickness of nine inches. The end of March, and beginning of April, however, became so fine and warm in the middle of the day, as to make walking irksome.

I now began to contemplate breaking up my winter quarters, in order to proceed to Montpellier. On inquiry, I found two modes of conveyance to this place, one by the Grand Canal de Languedoc, the other by diligence; and having made my arrangements for being conveyed by the latter, I prepared, on the 13th of April, to bid adieu to Toulouse.

I must not, however, leave this city, without paying a due tribute of respect to the worthy family with whom I have been resident, whose innumerable acts of kindness, and attention to a whimsical invalid, will ever claim his gratitude.

But let me not exclude my English friends from this expression of feeling. Mrs. W⸺ and Miss S⸺ are, in particular, entitled to my sincerest acknowledgments; and who were not only the first to receive me at Toulouse, but the last to take leave of me. They will ever retain a place in the recollections of a grateful heart.

CHAP. VI.
MONTPELLIER.

We left Toulouse in the afternoon, and travelling during the whole night, reached Narbonne on the following day for dinner; at nine o’clock in the evening we halted for a short time at Beziers, where we were left, under cover from a heavy rain, in a kind of stable-yard, while our conducteur transacted some business in the town. After this we again proceeded throughout the night, and at day-break arrived in sight of the Mediterranean Sea, afterward reaching Montpellier about ten o’clock.

On leaving the coach, I accompanied a gentleman with whom I had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had been a fellow-traveller on the present occasion, to his lodgings in this town; but on his arrival, he met with the following disappointment. During his absence, on legal business, he had permitted some friends to occupy his rooms, one of whom happened to die in his best chamber. Now it is customary in France, on such an occasion, to burn the bedding and other furniture, and in case of this happening in lodgings, the friends of the deceased are expected to pay for them; the charge, in the present instance, was eight hundred francs, and the furniture had not been replaced; my friend, therefore, was induced to provide himself with fresh rooms: formerly this was not the only tax upon the property of a foreigner who died in France, for by the droit d’Aubaine, which has only been abolished since the return of Louis XVIII., his whole property became confiscated to the King, under the erroneous idea that it must have been acquired in his dominions.

For the first three days, I lived with this gentleman at his lodgings, having however my sleeping-room at the Hotel de Midi; after which time, I had the good fortune to place myself in the family of Madame the Countess de M⸺, who occupied a noble mansion, agreeably situated near the town, replete with every convenience, and comprising beautiful gardens, embellished with terrace walks, fountains, and a bosquet, where, to my surprise, the nightingale sang all day long. For some reason or other, Madame found it convenient to dispose of a part of her house; one portion was occupied by two French officers with their families, and another by a Russian officer. The suites of apartments were, however, perfectly distinct, and there was little intercourse between the above and her own family, which inhabited the better part of the house, and consisted of herself, two daughters, and a relative, M. de C⸺.

I was exceedingly happy in this family, and with the friend who accompanied me from Toulouse, made various excursions into the surrounding neighbourhood; we particularly enjoyed the walks on the banks of the river and lake, where the air was much cooler and more agreeable, than on the road, at this time becoming dusty and troublesome. The scenery, about two or three miles from the city, is said to be romantically beautiful. On our return, we used, occasionally, to take a warm bath, which was peculiarly refreshing, and with respect to which, I noticed a luxury, which I had never before remarked,—namely, a clean sheet thrown over the surface of the bath, which you descend into, and are enveloped in.

There are also some delightful public walks about the town, as the Perût, whence is a view of the Mediterranean, and Cevennes mountains; the esplanade; and the botanic gardens. The city is also surrounded by boulevards, of which I was able to make the tour in forty minutes. The markets at Montpellier are well supplied with meats and fish of all kinds; with poultry, vegetables, and fruits in abundance. The vin ordinaire of the country, is termed vin de St. George, which is good, and full bodied, and sold from the cask as low as five or six sous the full quart bottle, although, after bottling and refining, the wine merchant charges twenty sous for a small wine quart. There is, however, another sort, termed vin de Lednon, which is lighter, but highly flavoured, and consequently more estimated, selling at thirty sous the bottle. A variety of other wines may also be procured.

Montpellier has a theatre, to which it is singular that the officers in the garrison here, are obliged to subscribe, whether they attend it or not; besides the above, there are a great variety of other amusements.

Madame de M⸺, and her eldest daughter, went one evening to a ball given by general B⸺, where the young lady had the fortune to make a conquest of an officer, with whom she danced; on the following day he paid her a visit, and shortly after made his proposals in form, which were accepted; after this, according to the custom of that part of the country, he was considered as one of the family, which was an additional pleasure to me, as he was a sensible gentleman-like companion. The marriage, however, did not take place until after my departure from Montpellier.

This love affair leads me to relate an affecting, romantic, and even tragical incident, which occurred in the family of Madame M⸺, during my residence with her.

Her youngest daughter, Clementine, was a lovely girl, about seventeen years of age; but, alas! it is impossible that I can do justice to charms which it was forbidden me to behold! A young gentleman one day walking accidently near the house, observed this interesting girl leading a goat, tied with a string, over a rising ground, near the bosquet; struck with her beauty and simplicity, his imagination took fire, and a passion the most ardent possessed his soul; his constant delight was to wander near the spot which contained the object of his affections, and amply was he repaid, when he could thus steal a glimpse of her beloved form. But he was soon compelled to tear himself away to prosecute his studies in Paris; her image pursued him, and dwelt incessantly within his mind; and he returned to Montpellier with unabated affection. The diffidence so characteristic of pure and ingenuous love, prevented him, for a time, from declaring his passion; at length, however, he summoned sufficient resolution to demand an interview with the countess, but as he refused to send up his name and object, she declined seeing him; in a while he repeated the call, declaring that he had something particular to communicate, but still refusing to give his name; the countess consequently again refused to see him, but sent Clementine to inquire the nature of his business.

Those who know how to love, may imagine his sensations, on finding the object of his ardent passion, thus unexpectedly placed before him; his perturbation amounted to a stupid confusion; he was incapable of utterance; and the unconscious maid left him without receiving the least explanation. His only consolation was now to repeat his wanderings around her habitation. One night I was myself alarmed by the sound of footsteps under my window, and for some time laboured under the impression, that an attempt was making upon the house. It was the unfortunate lover; who frequently spent whole nights around the spot, where he first saw his adored mistress.

On the morning of the 24th of June, I was disturbed from my sleep, by the sound of many persons talking in the house and garden, in a manner which convinced me that something dreadful had occurred; I immediately hurried on my clothes, and hastened to ascertain the cause, when, on opening the door of my room, which led into the hall, Mademoiselle de M⸺ instantly advanced towards me in tears, exclaiming, in the most pitiful tone, that a gentleman had killed himself in the garden, and then proceeding with the following relation: That her mother having risen early for the purpose of bathing, while the bath was in preparation, had walked into the garden in company with M. de C⸺, who was just returned from a party in the town, with whom he had been passing the preceding night; that, at this juncture, they saw through some bushes, a gentleman sitting on the grass, and whom she was on the point of approaching to accost, when he rose up, took out a large knife, and plunged it into his breast. M. de C⸺ immediately sprang across the path, exclaiming, “Mon Dieu! Mon ami, why have you done this!” The only reply from the unfortunate man was, “Clementine! Clementine!” The countess ran to procure assistance, and the whole house was soon in confusion. The most sympathizing inquiries were made into the motives for committing so rash a deed, when, exhausted with loss of blood, he exclaimed, “Ah! Clementine! for you I die! I feel you can never be mine, nor can I live without you!” He was now conveyed to a neighbouring house; a surgeon and the police officers soon arrived; the former reported, that the knife had been turned aside by a rib, but that he was in imminent danger. The police officer then proceeded in his duty, emptying his pockets, and conveying their contents to the Bureau. A letter was found, directed to Madame de M⸺, with another enclosed for Clementine, and I was informed they were both written with very great propriety, and expressive of his unhappy passion.

I quitted Montpellier a week after this event, at which time, the unfortunate lover continued in a hopeless state.

Both as sources of amusement and instruction, I frequently attended the lectures on chemistry, mineralogy, and botany, at the college, and had reason to feel gratified by the general attention paid me, both by the professors and students. Montpellier appears a most desirable situation for prosecuting a course of study, as it abounds with excellent public lectures, literary societies, and good libraries. In short, it must be an agreeable winter’s residence under any circumstances,—to those who wish to be gay, it offers a continual routine of balls, plays, and other amusements, public as well as private; and the valetudinarian will find as pure air, and agreeable walks and rides, as he can desire.

The time I had allotted for my residence at this delightful place, was now drawing to a close, and having provided a fresh supply of Herries and Farquhar’s notes, from my punctual and obliging bankers in London, I prepared to proceed to Aix in Provence, where I proposed to bathe for the remainder of the summer, staying a few days only at Nismes, on my way.

I shall avail myself of this opportunity of recommending to travellers the superior advantages of Herries and Farquhar’s notes, in preference to letters of credit, and which I cannot do better than state in their own words.

“The object of this plan is to supply travellers with money, whenever they may require it, without there being any necessity of determining the route beforehand. For this purpose, a correspondence is established with all the principal places of Europe. The traveller is furnished with a general letter or order, addressed to the different agents of the house, which letter, while it serves to identify him, gives a claim to any attention or good offices he may stand in need of.”

A variety of clear and explicit arrangements are made, to facilitate the immediate supplies of the traveller, whenever he may need them; and excellent precautions adopted, to prevent forgeries, impositions, and the extravagant expenses, commissions, and discounts, which attend the negotiation of bills on merchants’ houses.

CHAP. VII.
NISMES.

A short time before my departure from Montpellier, I had the misfortune to sprain my ancle, which abridged materially my usual pleasure of walking, but did not prevent me pursuing my original intention of proceeding to Aix.

M. de C⸺ was kind enough to accompany me to the coach, and, with the best possible motives, recommended me to the care of the passengers and conducteur, but which I must admit I would rather have declined, as it disarmed me of that independence I wished to feel; I fancied it was placing me in the light of a school-boy; or perhaps of a package of “Glass.—Keep this side uppermost.” I would prefer being treated with the little ceremony of a woolpack, which by its accommodating elasticity, not only avoids injury from slighter contact, but under more decided and ruder pressure, becomes so solid, so confirmed, so compact, as effectually to oppose additional restraint, and probably at length by its innate powers, to throw off the superincumbent weight, and immediately regain its original state; in short, I find less difficulty, and inconvenience, in travelling amongst strangers, than people imagine, and prefer being left to my own resources; habit has given me the power of acquiring, by a kind of undefinable tact, as correct ideas of objects as the most accurate descriptions would give; and unbiassed by the opinions of others, I feel more facility in forming my estimates of human nature.

After an unpleasant journey, owing to the heat of the weather and fulness of the coach, and passing through the neat town of Lunelle, famous for its wines, we arrived about noon at Nismes, where I took up my residence at a traiteur’s, in a particularly airy situation near the esplanade; this situation I felt of importance, as from its position on an extensive plain, this city suffers intolerably from the heats of summer.

On the following day, being Sunday, I attended divine service at one of the Protestant churches, in company with Mrs. and Miss L⸺, with whom I had previously been acquainted at Toulouse and Montpellier; we were shewn into the corporation seat, and I am afraid gave much trouble to its proper occupiers, who, with great politeness, incommoded themselves to accommodate us. We were much pleased with the discourse of the preacher, as well as the indications of devotion on the part of the congregation.

Nismes abounds with Protestants, who indeed constitute a large proportion of its more industrious and opulent population; a circumstance to which the sanguinary political scenes, of which it has so frequently been the theatre, are to be attributed. The Roman religion has undoubtedly a tendency to check the energetic industry of its professors, by the encouragement which its numerous fêtes give to habits of amusement, idleness, and dissipation; and, alas! it is too correspondent with the dispositions of fallen human nature, for rapine and fraud to spring out of such vitiated soil, and avail themselves of the advantages attained by honest industry.

But far be it from me, to decry the importance of religious observances, and rational relaxation from the toils of suffering humanity; or to throw the least censure on that admirable and divine institution, which, according to our admired Spectator, rubs off the rust of the preceding week, and leads the poor man to a close acquaintance with his best friend. The institutions of catholicism, or rather papalism, are in this respect essentially contradictory to the divine command, which has solemnly declared, amidst the awful denunciations of Mount Sinai,—“Six days shalt thou labour; but the seventh day is the sabbath of the Lord thy God;” for who of its more strict professors does not pay as much religious observance to the fifth day, as to the one indicated by the merciful Creator.

While at Nismes, my ancle proved extremely painful, and I felt otherwise indisposed, so as to be incapable for a time of taking my usual walks; I was, in consequence, induced to consult a French apothecary, who had talked me into a favourable opinion of his skill, by expatiating, in what I considered a philosophical way, upon the virtues of his medicines. I was, consequently, placed upon a course of ptisan refraichissant, without which French practice would be at a loss, but which, begging the pardon of this French Æsculapius, although it might do very well in mild cases, I should be loath to intrust my safety to in a desperate one, where nature might possibly want urging forward, or severe correction, rather than treating with such a complaisance; so much for my smattering of physic: but, notwithstanding, I must do my apoticaire the justice to admit, that with the aid of his ptisan, and other means, I was in a few days sufficiently improved to be able to resume, in some measure, my customary walks.

Nismes, originally the Nemausum of the Romans, is a city of considerable antiquity, of which sufficient remains are still to be found, to attest its former grandeur.

I visited some of these august remains, particularly the celebrated amphitheatre, built in the Tuscan order, of such size as to have been capable of containing twenty thousand spectators. It is considered one of the finest monuments of antiquity, and has survived the ravages of nearly twenty centuries. I had also that exquisite piece of Corinthian architecture described to me, now termed the Maison Quarrée, which exhibits some of the most beautiful specimens of architecture still existing, and which had been supposed by many to have been built by the Emperor Hadrian, a great benefactor to this city, but by an inscription, discoverable to that effect, is now proved to have been erected by the good people of Nismes in honour of the two young princes, Caius and Lucius Cæsar, grandsons of Augustus, by his daughter Julia, the wife of Agrippa.

A number of peculiar large square basins, which the common people use to bathe in, are to be seen at Nismes, near the public walk named the Coursè; they are placed at equal distances from each other, and formed by enlargements of a canal that runs through them, the water supplying which, issues from under the rock on which the castle stands; after passing through these reservoirs, the stream is conducted, by pipes and smaller canals, throughout the town, and converted to different purposes of economy and manufacture.

Anxious for the benefit I expected to derive from the waters of Aix, I hastened my departure from Nismes on the 11th of July. I had only a single companion in the diligence, an interesting young student of seventeen or eighteen years of age, on his way from college to meet some friends at Beaucaire, and as highly delighted with his emancipation from scholastic trammels, as a young midshipman at going on shore after a long cruise. At one place we took a glass of liqueur together, and on my offering to pay for it, he laughed at me, and said I was joking. At eight o’clock we reached Beaucaire, where he left me. At this place great preparations were making for the annual fair, which lasts about three weeks, and is of much importance, as merchants attend it from all parts of Europe.

We here crossed the Rhone on a bridge of boats, and proceeded through Tarrascon. At midnight we stopped for supper, when a cold chicken being produced, the conducteur contrived to dispose, with great celerity, of the larger part of it, leaving only a leg and wing for my share; after this, a most exorbitant demand was made upon me, being charged with the whole fowl, and the bottle of wine, although I had only shared a couple of glasses of the latter; but following the example of my young friend the student, I joked them into reason, and offering half the money, they thought proper to be contented with it. I am convinced, from experience, that this is a better mode, than arguing a point of charge passionately with a French innkeeper; hear with patience his torrent of explanation, and then putting on your gloves coolly, reply with a smile, “I dare say you are right, my good friend, but I make it a rule never to pay so much, and cannot do it now.” Above all, take care that you do not, like Smollet, give a louis to change, and then ask them what you have to pay; first, get your change, and then only part with your gold. But the best way of all to prevent disputes, is to make a bargain beforehand.

About seven in the evening I arrived at Aix, and had the pleasure of meeting my friend Mr. W⸺, with a brother of his, lately arrived from England, and also some of my fair countrywomen, with whom I had been acquainted at Toulouse, and who had passed me at Montpellier.

CHAP. VIII.
AIX—MARSEILLES.

Mr. W⸺ pressed me to take up my residence at Aix with himself and his brother, but I was still too anxious to pursue my studies of the French language, and character, amongst the natives, to accept of his offer; notwithstanding, it was impossible that I could have been placed more satisfactorily to my feelings; his general information and good sense, highly qualified him to impart knowledge, and his uncommon urbanity of manners, made it particularly delightful to receive it from him.

“How much in every state man owes

To what kind courtesy bestows,

To that benign engaging art,

Which decorates the human heart;

To every act it gives a grace,

And adds a smile to every face;

E’en goodness ’self we better see,

When drest by gentle courtesy.”

I availed myself, however, of my friend’s kindness, until I succeeded in procuring accommodations in a French family, accustomed to receive students in the law en pension. These gentlemen, however, only made their appearance at meal-times, nor did the resident family associate with us according to my expectation; I felt disappointed, and after staying ten days determined to change my quarters.

It was not easy to find a family like that of the Countess de M⸺, at Montpellier, particularly at this season, when every one who could afford to support the smallest establishment in the country, was, on account of the excessive heat, gone out of town. At length I fixed myself with Madame R⸺, the widow of an officer of dragoons, with three children, the eldest a girl of fourteen. A rich old gentleman, her cousin, M. B⸺, also resided with her, and they kept, in conjunction, two carriages and three horses, and occupied three different country houses.

I had the pleasure, one day, of accompanying Madame R⸺ on horseback, to visit one of her country seats, and was not a little surprised to find that she rode after the manner of gentlemen, with a horse-cloth doubled under her, instead of a saddle. It is, however, seldom that ladies in France ride on horseback, and they were not a little astonished, after the peace, to see our fair countrywomen riding in their usual manner with side-saddles, an accommodation they were not familiar with. I must acknowledge, I should not have liked exhibiting in the same way in Hyde Park; we did not, however, pass through the town in this manner, for our horses were led out of it before we mounted, and on our return, we dismounted before re-entering it.

A few days after my arrival, I commenced using the mineral baths of Aix, which I persevered in during my residence, and I think with much advantage, although I could not bear drinking the waters, which I fancied to be of a chalybeate nature; I endeavoured, but in vain, to get a correct analysis of them; the resident physician, appointed by government, either could not, or would not inform me; he referred me to a large octavo volume, sold at the baths, but I found it contain nothing except eulogies on their virtues, in almost every disease to which the human body is incidental. The temperature of the water is about 97° Fahrenheit.

The baths are situated in the Fauxbourg, or higher part of the town; the best situation for the invalid who wishes to take advantage of them, is near the Hotel de Prince, on the Coursé, which is the pleasantest part of the town.

The Coursé, is a double walk, with rows of lime-trees on both sides, and a carriage road between them; these walks form the fashionable promenade of the place on a summer’s evening. There are also good boulevards; Aix upon the whole, however, is defective in public walks, and the streets are narrow and very dirty. It is far from being an agreeable residence in summer, as the town is empty and dull; and in winter it is cold, in consequence of its situation on an extensive plain, exposed to the vents de bise from the neighbouring mountains.

There is a line cathedral at Aix, one of the doors of which is considered an exquisite piece of workmanship; in consequence, it is preserved in a case, and a particular application required to get admitted to a sight of it. I attended the service of the cathedral one fête day, and heard some very fine vocal and instrumental music.

The college here is as famous for law, as that of Montpellier for physic; and there is a public library which contains some English books, presented by one of our countrymen. The town also possesses a museum of natural history, and some good private collections of paintings.

My intercourse was chiefly confined to the family with which I resided, and a few English friends; I am, therefore, unable to say much respecting the social habits of the place, but understood that it was by no means defective in these respects; although there are no public amusements during the summer, the winter brings with it theatrical, and other entertainments.

Provisions are abundant and cheap, and the bread is so excellent as to be sent in large quantities to other places.

I was anxious to visit the celebrated city of Marseilles, distant only fifteen miles, and proceeded with Mr. H. W⸺, and another gentleman, to put this design in execution; on our arrival we placed ourselves at the Hotel des Ambassador, in the Rue Beauveau, near the Place Moliere, where the theatre stands.

The commerce of this great mercantile city was at this time much depressed, owing to the heavy duties imposed upon goods imported by American vessels; which however they managed to evade, in some degree, by unshipping their cargoes at Nice, or Genoa, into French coasters.

We visited the coral manufactory; the corals used in which, are said to be very fine, and brought by the fishermen direct from the coast of Barbary; I should have been glad to have purchased some, but was apprehensive of imposition, and, moreover, found that I could not take them into Italy, and elsewhere, without paying very heavy duties, or incurring great risk of seizure.

It is customary at Marseilles, for the inhabitants in great numbers, to go to the outsides of the harbour early in the morning to bathe, for which purpose the females take the left hand, and the men the right. We were induced to follow this good example, and found the bathing delightful; we were carried by boats into about five feet water, with a fine sandy bottom, and steps were then thrown out to enable us conveniently to get into the water, and out again; but I preferred throwing myself from off the gunwale and diving for some yards, after which, I swam out to sea, to the astonishment of my friends and the surrounding strangers, who were rendered sensible of my loss of sight, by my occasionally calling out to ascertain the direction of the boat.

On the eve of our return to Aix, Mr. H. W⸺, a spirited young naval officer, determined to repeat his bathing in the close of the evening, and notwithstanding our solicitations to the contrary, insisted upon going alone, although quite unacquainted with the French language. His impetuosity led him into an adventure, which might have terminated in fatal results, and, at all events, compelled us to hasten our departure, under circumstances in some degree equivocal. On quitting his boat, he offered the man who belonged to it, the same remuneration he had on former occasions paid, which however was refused; my friend walked off, and the man followed him, talking loudly in an unintelligible manner; at length he laid hold of him by the skirt of his coat, when W⸺, turning round, knocked him down; a mob soon collected, who taking the boatman’s part, proceeded to beat our young friend most unmercifully, and probably would have murdered him, had not some gentlemen interfered and extricated him; one of these had the kindness to accompany him home, and requested we would not venture into the streets, until the affair had been arranged with the police, to whom he offered to accompany us on the following morning. We acknowledged his kindness, but concealed our intention of quitting Marseilles at five o’clock in the morning; in short, we thought it better to avail ourselves of this chance of getting rid of the affair, not however, without some apprehension of being pursued.

In fact, in two or three days after our return to Aix, it was announced, that a person from Marseilles was enquiring for two gentlemen who had lately been at the Hotel des Ambassador, in that place; we immediately pictured to our imaginations, a police officer, with a warrant in his hand, but it proved to be one of the waiters, who had called to apprise us of a mistake of six francs, against us, in making out our bill, which we paid with much satisfaction, as flattering ourselves that we had now fully outwitted the police.

The month of September having considerably advanced, and the weather becoming sensibly colder, I began to think of suspending the use of the hot baths, and removing to a milder climate. I had the pleasure, however, of thinking my health materially improved, my eyes in particular felt lighter, and I fancied that I could occasionally discern a flash of light from the under part of the left one. I selected Nice for my winter’s residence, and on the 14th of September left Aix in the diligence, for Antibes, taking leave of the last town in France, where I proposed making any extended residence.

It is not easy to describe my emotions in quitting a people, with whose language and habits I was now becoming well acquainted, and to whom I felt a degree of attachment, grounded, if not upon congeniality of sentiment, at least upon a grateful sense of repeated acts of kindness, and attention, which I had experienced from them.

It is true, that I was fully alive to all the anticipated enjoyments of a land of promise; the favoured Italy, highly gifted by nature and art; the cradle of genius; the birth-place of poets, orators, and warriors; and once the sole arbitress of the fate of the world.

I sought consolation in reflections of this nature, and in repeating the lines of a favourite poet.

“Hope must brighten days to come

While memory gilds the past.”

CHAP. IX.
JOURNEY TO NICE.

On leaving Aix, our coach, besides myself, contained two gentlemen, sons of General M⸺, who had been residing for eight years at a college near Toulouse. We breakfasted at Luc, where we took up two or three more passengers; from hence we passed on to Frejus, and thence over the Estralès, formerly noted for numerous banditti. At Cannes General M⸺ came out with his daughter, in his carriage, to meet his sons, whom we here parted from. The remaining passengers also quitted us about this time, so that before we entered Antibes I had the whole carriage to myself.

At Antibes I got my passport signed, to enable me to enter his Sardinian majesty’s dominions; but this gave little trouble, as a person negotiated the affair for the remuneration of one franc.

I remained at the inn where the diligence put up, in consequence of finding that the one for Nice set off from it on the following morning. I got my supper at the table d’hôte, in company with two or three officers; the fare was very indifferent, and the charge exorbitant, in consequence of not having made my bargain beforehand.

After supper I retired early to bed, in hopes of compensating for my loss of sleep on the preceding night in the coach; but, alas! I reckoned without my host, for it proved a night of misery; a multitude of mosquitoes tormented me without intermission, and with joy did I welcome the arrival of the moment, which announced that the diligence was preparing to depart.

At four o’clock we left the inn, but the town-gates were yet closed, and some time elapsed before they were opened to us; at length an officer came and accomplished this with military ceremony; but we were still unable to proceed, for a whole drove of asses and mules, laden with fruits, vegetables, &c. had stationed themselves in the pass on the other side, and began to enter amidst the smacking of whips, and hallooing of muleteers; this occupied at least ten minutes.

Shortly afterward we took up a man who had fought in the battle of Trafalgar, but was now a traiteur at Nice, and had been into the country to purchase grapes, in order to manufacture his own wine: he seemed pleased on discovering that I had served in the British navy, of which he spoke very highly.

We now arrived on the banks of the Var, which separates the kingdoms of France and Sardinia, and, with little interruption from the custom-house officers, immediately crossed the frontiers.

We here received the addition to our party, of two very genteel ladies and a gentleman, who proved for the remainder of the journey, most agreeable companions; I was so much interested in their conversation, that, almost without being sensible of the progress, we arrived at the Hotel des Etranger, at Nice.