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Hunting a Home in Brazil.
THE
AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES
AND OTHER
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COUNTRY.
ALSO,
THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS
OF THE INHABITANTS.

By J. McF. GASTON, M. D., COLUMBIA, S. C.

Late Surgeon Confederate Army.

PHILADELPHIA:

KING & BAIRD, PRINTERS, No. 607 SANSOM STREET.

1867.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by

J. McF. GASTON, M. D.,

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

INTRODUCTION.

The present publication is the result of observations made during an extended tour in the central portion of Brazil.

The most ample facilities for exploring the territory were afforded by the authorities of the empire, and more especially by that high-toned gentleman and liberal-minded statesman, Conselheiro Dom Antonio Francisco de Paula e Sousa, to whose personal and official support is due whatever of value may attach to this collection of facts.

This daily record was made for the information of a number of personal friends, but the conviction that many other persons are also interested in a region of such vast resources, induces the author to submit it to the public, as a faithful description of the soil, productive climate, people and government, of the country.

All the requisites of a desirable home have been found in Brazil; and a consideration of the data here presented may enable those concerned to determine upon the propriety of transferring their residence to that favored land.

HUNTING A HOME IN BRAZIL.

Having made a pleasant voyage from New York, it was announced early on the morning of Tuesday, September 12th, 1865, that our vessel had passed Cape Frio, and that we were approaching the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. The rugged shore upon our right hand presented rather a dreary aspect, relieved now and then by a few scrubby trees, or the green foliage of vines springing from the crevices of the rocks. This mountainous rock-bound coast is very irregular in its outline; and the ocean, dashing against its base, throws the white foam of the waves high upon its sloping edge, then to break into spray, and fall back into roaring waters.

The guardians of the entrance consist of two conical islands of solid rock, known as Pai (father) and Mai, (mother.) Farther south there is another small island of rock, upon which stands a light-house to guide vessels approaching at night.

The indications for the mariner are so distinct, and the water so deep and free from obstructions at all points, that pilots are not required.

The gigantic and towering spire of rock, known as the Sugar Loaf mountain, first attracts attention in nearing the city, but all must realize that it fails signally in its resemblance to the conformation of a sugar loaf. In one position, when nearly opposite to it, as our vessel passed into the harbor, the proportions of a cone with a regularly defined outline were somewhat striking, but in all other situations it simply presented a huge peak of rock, upon the left of the immediate entrance to the city. There is also another conical peak upon the right side, and though not in exact opposition to this, they serve as immense pillars, constituting the portals of this maritime metropolis of the world.

The atmosphere had become sensibly cooler during the night, and it was observed in approaching the harbor that the thermometer had descended to 70° Fahrenheit, for the first time during the voyage. The temperature from 20° north latitude, to 20° south latitude, varied from 80° to 85°, but it has gradually fallen since passing 20° south latitude, until now, in 22° 56′ and west longitude 43° 09′, we have the very comfortable temperature above mentioned. Early this morning my overcoat was found very agreeable, and this state of the atmosphere is in striking contrast to all the representations ever received as to the climate of this region. Indeed, the temperature has not been oppressive at any time during the voyage, except for a few days after leaving New York; and instead of the sultry atmosphere which was anticipated in passing the equator, a pleasant breeze was at all times prevailing. It is highly probable that this influence of the sea-breeze may not be so sensibly felt in the city and harbor of Rio, which is locked in by mountains upon every side, except the narrow entrance to the harbor between the lofty cliffs.

Upon approaching this gorge-like opening of the mountains from the sea, we get a distant view of the shipping, and that portion of the city immediately upon the margin of the water.

A large fort called Fortaleza da Conceicão is seen upon the right, projecting out boldly into the water, while on the left an extensive range of neat and commodious barracks is seen at a considerable distance, between two elevated projections formed of land and rock. Upon getting opposite the fort, an officer upon the ramparts called out to know from what port our vessel came. The captain replied, “From New York.” The officer called again, “How long out?” to which the captain answered, “Fifty-one days.” The call was made through a trumpet, and our flag being English,[^[1]] the language corresponded to the supposed nationality of the vessel; but I confess that it would have required good guessing to divine what was said, and the captain’s answers were made according to his preconceived idea of the questions that would be asked at this place.

We now observed ahead two other forts, one to the right having the appearance of being formed from the solid stone, while the other on the left seemed to be constructed of hewn stone. Each of these works had quite a number of guns of small calibre placed in barbette, while the large fort was arranged with casemates, as well as embrasures in the ramparts.

In addition to these structures for the defence of the harbor, there were several works visible upon the cliffs on either side, which might serve to annoy, and even damage, the vessels of a fleet, without being in any way liable to injury from the hostile guns. The known efficacy of a plunging shot could be brought into operation from these elevated positions, while the gunners would not only have exemption, by the difficulty of elevating guns to reach such a height, but are effectually protected against an enfilading fire by the peaks of solid rock which flank these works on each side.

Our bark came to anchor shortly after passing the forts, when a custom-house officer and an officer of the police came aboard, to get the manifest of the vessel and report of her passengers. We gave up our passports and reported our baggage, with the understanding that it had to be taken to the custom-house for examination, previous to its going ashore.

This official, who examined our passports, could not converse in English, yet asked each man if he was single, which I supposed was to elicit information whether there was any one under his charge on the bark, and answered in the affirmative. The captain, observing the mistake, stated that he desired to know whether I was single or married, when my entry was changed to correspond to the responsibilities of a family. These officials were very polite in their demeanor towards us, and shook hands with all upon leaving.

The captain now had his boat lowered and took the other passengers and myself with him to the city. It being late in the afternoon, and nearly two miles to the wharf, our four oarsmen had a stiff pull, to take us with that despatch which was desired, to secure time for business on shore.

We passed through the shipping which lay in the outer bay, and immediately past the guard-ship, so that it might be seen that nothing was taken ashore in the boat. Upon nearing the wharf, we encountered a large number of small boats manned by negroes or Portuguese, and a few by the sailors from the different vessels in the harbor.

Before leaving the bark, it should be mentioned that several boats came along side with cards from the respective ship chandlers, which they were very intent upon delivering to the captain, with an invitation to take a seat in the boat for a row to the city. One of these was from the firm of Baldwin & Co., with which he expected to deal, and at which we stopped a short time after going ashore. Mr. Baldwin had left the city for a visit to Baltimore, and we were told that his impression was, that an honest man ought not to continue in this branch of business. The house however seems to be well supplied with the various articles usually needed aboard of ships, and it is likely that persons needing to purchase any thing in this line may do so on as favorable terms here as elsewhere in the city of Rio.

From this place, which is very near the wharf, we proceeded with the captain to the house of Phipps Brothers & Co., on Rua Pescadores, who are the consignees of his cargo. The young men in the office spoke English, and were very accommodating in giving us information in regard to various matters outside of their business. We learned that Colonel Clarey from the city of Baltimore had arrived in this city a few days previous, and it was supposed that he was still here. But we were subsequently informed that he had left the city, and proceeded by way of Santos to the city of São Paulo.

In passing through this business part of the city, several negro men were seen with little else than a cloth around their loins, carrying immense burdens; while negro women were seated upon the side-walks with the body of a chemise as the only covering above their waists. These women were engaged in traffic of various kinds, and seemed to be as entirely unconscious of any undue exposure as we would suppose Eve was, originally, in the garden of Eden.

The captain had some Brazilian money, and made a very satisfactory trade with one of these women, getting three oranges for a dump, which is equal to two cents, and bought enough to give us all a good bait of this delicious fruit. I had a United States twenty-five cent coin, for which she was only willing to allow me eight dumps or sixteen cents, but I declined her proposition, and afterwards got ten dumps or twenty cents for my quarter of a dollar,[^[2]] and invested a portion of it forthwith in oranges. It is one of my weak points to have an inordinate fondness for oranges, and this fruit being unusually fine in Rio, and very cheap, I expect to consume a large number daily. Bananas are also very abundant and very cheap; but it is not the season for pine-apples, and the few here are held at high prices, even as much as fifty cents each.

I was struck with the large strings of onions that were seen hanging in almost every part of the market, and was told that they are shipped to the port from Portugal in immense numbers, though the soil and climate of Brazil is said to be well adapted to their production. Those things which grow here in great abundance, without work, satisfy the wants of the lower class of people, and they do not care to devote their energies to tilling the soil.

The streets of Rio de Janeiro, in the business portion of the city, through which we passed, are for the most part very narrow, and having a depression in the middle to serve as a drain. It is difficult for two carts or other vehicles to pass each other, and on one occasion we had to enter the door of a store to avoid contact with the wheels, when two carts were passing in one of these narrow defiles leading to the store of Phipps Brothers & Co. In going to this place, however, we passed through Rua da Direita, which is at this portion perhaps the broadest street in the city, and upon this is located the business palace and the church of the Emperor, Dom Pedro II.

In front of these buildings is an open plaza, with a fountain of water on the opposite side, at which persons may be seen almost constantly filling their vessels with the pure and limpid fluid, that is conveyed by an aqueduct from the hills outside of the city.

This plaza is constantly occupied with carriages and hacks for hire, and there are also quite a number of two-wheeled tilburys, having accommodation for but one person beside the driver. Mules are generally driven in these vehicles, two to the former, and one to the latter, and while they are used almost exclusively in all public equipages, it is not uncommon to see a fine pair of mules likewise in an elegant private carriage.

The mules here present a fine appearance, being of large size and having good action, with apparently more life and spirit than the mules with us in the United States. This however is accounted for by the comparatively light service which is done by them, which came under my observation during this afternoon.

I observed that horses are also used in private equipages and for the saddle, but they did not strike me as being of superior quality. There was a number of fancy-colored horses of rather small size, in single harness, and they seemed to be compact, hardy animals, with good action, and fine spirit. They belong doubtless to the stock of wild horses captured in the plains of Buenos Ayres or in the lower provinces of Brazil, yet I had no opportunity of instituting an inquiry as to their origin.

Among the many vehicles seen in the streets of Rio de Janeiro I observed nothing like the buggy which is in common use in the United States; and the two-wheeled, one horse tilbury is so much better adapted to narrow streets and short turns that it is not likely that it will find a rival soon in the four-wheeled buggy of modern invention.

Omnibuses or “diligencia” are seen moving to and fro with great activity, and this progressive feature of a business people is evidently in successful operation, with the usual advantages accruing to a large number of customers, over that of carriages and tilburys, which are only hired by the few for transportation to a special point. The large number of negroes that are seen upon the streets, both male and female, with the marks of tattooing upon their cheeks, and in the persons of the females with fancy figures on their arms, indicates that the African slave-trade has been carried on with this country very actively at a comparatively recent period. Most of them appear strong and active, while many are not exceeding twenty-five years of age. The men were employed in such business as we might expect slaves to do, but most of the women were selling fruit or trafficking in other little dainties, as if they might be free.

I learn that it is a common thing here for a number of slaves to hire their time, and form a combination together to work out their freedom. It is decided by lot who is first made free, and the order in which the others are found, and yet all are bound to remain together and contribute all that is received into the common treasury, until the last is liberated.[^[3]] This is among the men, and I don’t know that any such arrangement has been adopted by the women.

Upon returning to our boat, we had a view of the line of ferry boats, which has been introduced here, upon the same plan as that adopted at New York and elsewhere in the United States. A gentleman from North Carolina named Rainey organized a company here some years ago, and has brought out two double-enders from New York for this service, which run from the city proper across to Nitherohi and other points. Their trips are made with great regularity every half hour, accommodating a large number of people.

Wednesday, September 13, 1865.

After returning from the city last night, my overcoat was found comfortable, and a blanket was used for covering during the night. The temperature this morning is very pleasant upon the water, it being 72° by Fahrenheit’s thermometer.

Having learned from Phipps & Co. that a vessel was expected to leave to-morrow for Baltimore, I made an addition to a letter written on yesterday to my wife, and putting a United States postage stamp upon it, I gave it to these gentlemen to be forwarded by the captain of the vessel.

Upon inquiry for letters at the post-office this morning, I was handed a long list of written names with the simple announcement “English” by the clerk. This implied that these persons had letters in the office, which had come through English mail, but most of the names were either Portuguese or Spanish, and very few really English. My own not being on the list, it was inferred that no letter had arrived for me. As I had left home upon the 26th of June, and gone by way of New Orleans to New York, occupying an entire month before leaving the latter port, there had evidently been sufficient time for any communication that might have been sent direct, to reach this city in advance of my arrival.

I must encounter many difficulties in my intercourse with the people of this country, from the ignorance of their language, and my objects in the line of business will be to some extent embarrassed; but there being a good many people here who speak both English and Portuguese, it may be in my power to obtain an interpreter when needed.

Having letters from Colonel A. V. Brumly to Mr. M. Tweedle and Mr. Robert Habersham, who I expected to find employed in the engineer department of the Dom Pedro II. Railroad Co., I repaired to their building, and was pleased to find that Major Ellison, chief engineer,[^[4]] and his brother, also employed in this office, were both from the United States. I learned that Mr. Tweedle had left the road and the country long since, and that Mr. Habersham was in charge of the construction section sixteen miles above the terminus of the present track. As I wish to see the country along the line of this road and on its projected route, I hope at a future day to make a visit to Mr. Habersham.

I was referred to Mr. G. N. Davis, No. 92 Rua da Direita, for directions to the office of Senor Don Galvão, the official agent of colonization, and when he was informed as to my wishes, I was pleased to hear his proposition to accompany me whenever it might suit me to make the visit. Mr. Davis also said that he could provide a room over his store for Mr. Mallory and myself, and we will eat at the restaurants, until something further can be learned as to our movements.

I met to-day at the store of Baldwin & Co. Dr. Henry C. Bosworth, who gave me information in regard to various matters of interest, and tendered his services at any time that he could be of any assistance to me. He is from the United States, and practised dentistry in this city for a number of years very successfully, but has now retired from that business, and has an interest in the ferry company, which promises to be a very profitable investment.

It is the impression of Mr. Mallory that Dr. Bosworth will render him very important aid in getting into business, and from his courteous manner, and his general intelligence, I would expect him to have considerable influence among the people and the officials of this country.

We were likewise introduced to a Mr. Smith, who came from Virginia some five years since, and has been engaged here in railroad contracts, which he says have proved advantageous to him. He accompanied us to one of the public gardens of the city, where we saw a variety of rare birds, among which were a pair of large white swans and a large black swan, with some water-fowls of a beautiful red hue and very graceful form. In the fish-pond we were told there was an immense specimen of what is known as the ox fish, that feeds upon cabbage and various other vegetables; but it did not come to the surface, and the water being muddy at the time, we failed to get a sight of this curiosity.

Mr. Smith now has a contract with the city improvement company, who are employed by the government to arrange sewers, for all parts of the city, by underground drains, which shall take every thing to receivers at the margin of the water, and there undergo a process of disinfection and purification.[^[5]] In connection with this, it is contemplated, likewise, to construct a privy upon each man’s premises, whether he may desire it or not, and thus make amends for the total neglect of this household arrangement in by-gone years and even at the present time.

As a substitute for privies, chamber-pots or wooden stands of various forms and capacities are used in all the private and public houses of the city. These are emptied daily or at stated periods, and the contents carried by negroes in wooden cans, upon their heads, after dark, and emptied into the harbor. By the use of coal tar in the vessels kept in the houses any unpleasant odor is to a great extent prevented; yet the whole programme is disgusting, and the people may well congratulate themselves upon the new order of things which is inaugurated by this city improvement company. At present it is a common practice for men of all classes of society to urinate upon the side-walks, in the most fashionable and most frequented streets of the city, and the stench in passing some of the recesses that are most frequently resorted to is such, that it is a matter of surprise to learn that there is no public ordinance forbidding this offensive nuisance.

We returned in the evening with the captain, and found the atmosphere more pleasant upon the water than in the crowded thoroughfares of the city. I was particularly struck with the beautiful display of the gas-lights of the city, as seen from the deck of our bark. The precise and distinct lines of light along the margins of the water formed a pleasing contrast with the irregularities of the winding ways upon the hillsides, and the dazzling points to be seen here and there in the private grounds. To appreciate fully the rare beauty of this view, it is proper to state that the city of Rio de Janeiro was originally located in a cove, that is surrounded by elevated hills, and these again having a bordering range of mountain cliffs.

At the present day all these lesser hills are occupied by residents, and here many of the finest houses and most tasteful grounds of the city are arranged, one above another, to the very summit of these elevations. It is upon these slopes that the gas-lights present such an interesting display, when viewed in the quietness of night from the shipping in the harbor. The lamps upon the vessels, moving gently to and fro under the swelling of the waves, are seen in every direction around, like so many fire-flies filling the air; but the glittering lights of the city present more the aspect of brilliant constellations, and were viewed with that kind of satisfaction which is felt in looking upon the firmament in a clear night. While I sat upon a coil of rope contemplating this scene, the deep-toned bells of the city sent forth a sound, that was faintly echoed by the numerous bells of the many vessels striking the passing hour; and apart from this, all was serene and quiet in the bay and city.

The busy stir of vehicles upon land, and the moving hither and thither of boats of all grades upon the water, which is so characteristic of this centre of commerce and trade during the day, all ceases at night; and rest or recreation is the recourse of the laborer and man of business, while for the student comes meditation.

Thursday, September 14, 1865.

We expected to move into the city to-day; and being advised that my cans of tomatoes, peaches, and pickles, with some tobacco, which had been brought from New York, might not pass through the custom-house unless they were included in my baggage, I put all into my mess-chest. These articles had been procured with the expectation that they would be required on the voyage, and finding the vessel well supplied, very little had been used; yet I wished to retain them for use in exploring the country, where provisions might be scarce, and hence declined to accept the offer of the captain to buy them for the bark. Upon entering the custom-house with these things, and foreseeing the importance of having these matters understood by the officers in advance of their examination, I requested Mr. Hagins, who does business with Mr. Davis, to proceed with me to the custom-house and represent the facts. He gave them to understand that the articles were not for sale, but for my own consumption, and, after some difficulty, arranged the matter without any charge for duty or the imposition of any fine for violation of regulations.

We moved into the room in the third story above the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, which is rather contracted in proportions, but has the recommendation of being well ventilated, and having a water view from the windows.

The apparent ease with which my heavy mess-chest was carried up three flights of stairs surprised me. It was a good lift for two of us to get it from the bark to the small boat, and yet this African negro carried it upon his head from the custom-house and up the stairs without any inconvenience; for which service I was told that two dumps, or four cents, was considered a proper compensation.

It is a peculiarity of this city, that burdens are generally carried by the negroes upon their heads.[^[6]] A large and heavy piece of furniture will very often be carried upon the heads of four or six negro men, who keep the step together by chanting or by tapping a bell. They usually have upon their heads a piece of cloth rolled up after the turban style, which prevents the direct contact of the hard substance that is carried. The ordinary receptacle for a number of articles to be carried is a large, flat wicker-basket, with a concavo-convex bottom, which fits upon the head; and they move along with quite a load in these baskets, giving no assistance whatever with the hands. In some instances they are seen plaiting straw, or sewing up the material in the form of a hat, while carrying these loads; which indicates a spirit of industry that was scarcely to be expected of the negro race. I am informed that the greater portion of the negroes doing this kind of business are slaves, who hire their own time, and all is for their personal benefit.

We dined at a restaurant, and our bill of fare consisted of pork cutlet, beefsteak, potted beef, fried Irish potatoes, salad, cucumbers, and coffee, with bread of excellent quality. For dessert, we had marmalade, oranges, and bananas, making, together, a most substantial dinner. The cost for both of us was one dollar and seventy-five cents, which, being eighty-seven and a half cents each, was rather more expensive living than our pecuniary resources would warrant. I had not spent any thing, however, in getting ashore, and having done more physical labor than usual, my appetite called for something extra, and it was enjoyed.

After dining, we found that night was approaching, and the gas-lights were already emitting their brilliancy upon the streets. We walked down to the open space provided with seats in front of the Circle de Commerce, upon Rua da Direita, and seated ourselves, for the purpose of observing the manners and customs of the people. I was impressed with the genteel bearing of those who resorted to this rendezvous; and quite a large number of well-dressed gentlemen were seated here, or walking about the open pavement between the seats and the buildings, who gave a favorable indication of the physical characteristics of the better class of men. A very fine equipage, with a white driver in livery, stopped near the seat we occupied, and a gentleman and lady, with their daughter, as we supposed, alighted from it, all dressed with much neatness and even elegance. They passed through the fancy confectionery store below, and ascended to the upper story of the building, where ice-creams, &c., are served in magnificent style to visitors.

It is very seldom that a Brazilian lady is seen upon the streets of Rio during the day, which is in part to avoid the scrutiny of men, and perhaps, also, to obviate the embarrassment of seeing those same men under circumstances not very becoming for observation. The heat of the sun during the day is likewise doubtless a reason why the women remain within doors, and they find the temperature of the night air more pleasant for exercise. The number of ladies from other regions of the world, that are now residing in Rio, is beginning to make some changes in the habits of the sex; as English women or French women go out upon the street whenever business or inclination calls them to take a walk or a ride in the city. The custom here has been that of great seclusion among all classes as to their women; but the more intelligent and refined Brazilians are learning that a different course is the true policy for the promotion of the true character of woman.

I had no means of knowing whether the party referred to were natives or foreigners; but their style indicated refinement and good taste. Their carriage was of the most fashionable make, with accommodations for four persons within, and a broad front seat for driver and footman. The upper part of the body was of open cane-work, and the entrance on either side wide, so as to give a light and airy appearance to the vehicle. The livery of the driver and footman was of blue cloth, with silver lace upon the collar, and a high, slick hat of enamelled leather with a band of silver. The team in this instance, as in most of the fine turnouts of the fashionables, was a pair of fine mules; and really these slick and lively animals, being of full size and well proportioned, present here a better appearance than horses.

This promenade is one of the few places of resort for those who do not go to the theatre and opera; and though there is a hotel and an ice-cream saloon here, there is no special entertainment for the numerous visitors that come and go in the course of an evening.

So far as I have been able to learn from others, balls and parties of a public character are not frequent in this city; and indeed the whole constitution of society is opposed to this kind of promiscuous assemblage of the sexes.

There are several large establishments for theatrical performances, and also opera houses, suited to the different classes of people. The Emperor considers it a matter of sufficient interest to sustain and patronize these places of recreation, and I am informed that he frequently attends in person accompanied by his family. His object is doubtless to promote what he esteems the happiness of his people, and not from any idea that they will be thus diverted, so as to prevent their minds from being directed into mischievous channels.

The pacific character of this people, and their great proneness to adhere to an existing state of things in all the departments of life, with their general admiration for the noble traits of the Emperor, affords a guarantee for the stability of this empire, independent of its constitution and laws.

Friday, September 15, 1865.

I called this morning, with Mr. Mallory, at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, Secretary in the Naval Bureau, to whom he presented his testimonials of qualification for service in the Ordnance Department. This gentleman speaks the English language, and seems to take considerable interest in promoting his wishes. He advised him to draw up an application to the government, setting forth his former services, and what duty he desired to enter upon here, and proposed to present it with his recommendation to the Minister of State.

Upon making an inquiry as to the practicability of being employed in the Hospital Department as a surgeon, after completing my investigations in the country, he expressed a favorable opinion; and stated that it would be desirable that I should draw up a paper indicating the nature of the public service in which I had been engaged, and the position I would like to occupy here.

He proposed to take this likewise in his special charge, and to use his influence to advance my wishes. It had not been my intention to make an application for any position under the Brazilian government at this time; but since this gentleman manifests such an accommodating spirit, I may find it convenient to undertake for a time some duty connected with military hospitals, near the seat of war, and thus see something more of the country towards the south.

After closing this interview, I repaired to the store of Mr. G. N. Davis, and he accompanied me to the office of Senor Don J. C. Galvão, No. 23 Rua Dos Ciganos. This gentleman also speaks English very well, and received me with great respect.

He heard my statement of the projected move of myself and my friends to Brazil with evident interest; and exhibited to me maps of the country, with records of lands owned by the government, and also descriptions of improved farms of private parties, which were offered for sale.

The price of public lands ranges from twenty-two cents to eighty-eight cents per acre, to those making an independent purchase. To those without the means of buying land, or of supporting themselves separately, one hundred and fifty acres of land will be provided, under the regulations of the government, in one of their colonies—to be paid for at the rate of one dollar and thirty-three cents per acre, one-third at the end of two years, one-third at the end of four years, and the last third at the end of six years.

The family are to be furnished with agricultural implements free of charge, and to be allowed one dollar a day for six months for each adult, with transportation from Rio to the colony free of cost. As yet there has been no advance of funds by the government of Brazil to bring emigrants from the United States to this country; though a small proportion of the outlay for transportation of emigrants from Europe has been borne, with a view to assist those who would not otherwise have the means of getting to Brazil. There is already, in Rio, an establishment to which those without means are sent to be lodged and boarded free of expense, until they can be forwarded to a colony. In these government colonies roads are opened, houses of small size are built, and churches, schools, priests, and a director are provided; but if it is the desire of the colonists to furnish their own schools and churches, it is not here prohibited; yet, if the churches are other than those of the Roman Catholic religion, they cannot be built with a steeple or other ostensible indication of a house of worship. Mirabile dictu!

I stated to Dom Galvão that there were many people of good standing in the southern portion of the United States, who were able to provide land and the means of subsistence for themselves, and yet would find great inconvenience in affecting the transportation across the ocean, unless some systematic means of assistance could be devised by the Brazilian government. There will be also persons, doubtless, desirous of coming to Brazil, whose means are very much reduced, and yet their former associations in life would render them desirable companions to those having more resources; and if those without means could receive the assistance extended to the colonists by the government, and yet be allowed to join their friends in a settlement of their own, it would materially facilitate their location in this country.

If the Brazilian government will render the same aid to our emigrants who are without means that has been extended to her own colonists, it would find at the end of six months that all further outlay or responsibility was unnecessary; and these people would co-operate with those having resources, to build up and make useful all the industrial enterprises of the settlement.

To furnish lands at the lowest practicable rate, and construct public highways, without any duty upon importations, are at present proposed by the government of Brazil, as encouragement to emigration.

Dom Galvão proposed to represent my views upon the subject of emigration to the Minister of Agriculture, and expressed his conviction that some practicable scheme would be devised to effect our object of being associated together, under regulations that would be satisfactory to all concerned.

Mr. Davis called with me also to see Mr. Milford, Acting Consul of the United States, by whom I was courteously treated, and informed that a large body of land had been intrusted to his charge, located near the Dom Pedro II. railroad. He stated that papers were in his possession giving full particulars of its nature and resources, and that they might be seen by calling at his office, No. 28 Rua Del Alfandega.

I was then presented to Mr. James, No. 15 Rua da Direita, and had a conversation with him as to the settlement of Dr. Blue and others, near the Bay of Paranagua. He informed me that Mr. Wells, of St. Louis, had gone on a visit to that locality, and was expected to return in a few days, when all available information might be had from him. I had requested Dom Galvão to make arrangements for me to visit that region, but no further steps will be taken until I hear the report of Mr. Wells.

There are some private interests involved, which have enlisted parties as advocates of the lands in the vicinity of the Bay of Paranagua; and I doubt whether it is desirable to look at a country where those expecting to speculate in lands have already made investments with a view to sell again.

Saturday, September 16, 1865.

Learning from Mr. James that Mr. Wells had returned to the city, I accepted his offer to give me an introduction to him. He gave me the particulars of the bay, and the river extending up from it, with an account of the recent settlements near that place, conveying rather a favorable idea of the surroundings of the Bay of Paranagua; yet I found that he was not so favorably impressed as to think of making his home there.

I concluded accordingly that it would not perhaps suit as a location for me and my friends; and that the advantages of other localities would be investigated without visiting this place at present.

Having heard from several disinterested persons that the province of São Paulo combined fertility of soil and adaptation especially to the culture of coffee, with a pleasant and healthy climate, I was inclined to think very favorably of that region. Upon an examination of its outline on the map it was found that it extended sufficiently towards the north to afford all the tropical fruits, and that its southern limit would secure a mitigation of heat, without being exposed to much frost during the winter, lying between 19° 38′ and 25° 39′ south latitude.

Under these circumstances I withdrew my application for transportation to the Bay of Paranagua, and asked Dom Galvão to arrange for a visit to the province of São Paulo.

He had been down to see me, and not finding me in, had left a paper, embodying modifications of the regulations pertaining to emigrants, which are intended to carry out my views. Upon having this document, written in Portuguese, translated by Mr. Hagins, it did not seem very definite or satisfactory, and I will confer with the author in person, when we meet again on Monday at his office. Then I will get more precise information as to the points submitted in this paper, and can determine whether any practical benefit is likely to accrue from the acceptance of his propositions.

Mr. Mallory and myself were expected at the office of Major Pedro Latão da Cunha, at 11 o’clock a. m., but, failing to have the papers in readiness, we did not reach there until after 12 o’clock, when he had left, and we were fully conscious of our dereliction. As we returned, however, he hailed us from the opposite side of the street; and on speaking with him, we found that he had been to learn the cause of our failure to meet him. This made us notice the great importance of promptness and punctuality in keeping our appointments with officials. He proposed that we should call at his office on Monday at 12 o’clock, when he would go with us to see the Minister of State, and endeavor to have our applications acted upon forthwith.

Though there is no special consequence attached to the disposition that is made of mine, it is of great moment to Mr. Mallory to get a speedy and favorable response to his application.

My understanding with different parties as to matters of business, indicates that I may, in a short time, ascertain definitely something as to the lands that may be available; and learn further my future relations to this government.

Sunday, September 17, 1865.

In compliance with a previous understanding, Mr. Mallory and myself went immediately after breakfast to Captain Buhlaw’s quarters, on one of the highest hills in the city, whence he and his wife accompanied us to the museum. This visit was made to-day, as we were informed that it was open only upon Sundays.

We examined a very extensive collection in the departments of Ornithology and Herpatology, with a fair assortment of minerals, of which the specimens of native diamond engaged my special attention. There was a very interesting variety of coins of different nations, and also some specimens of paper money, among which I observed a one dollar ($1.00) greenback note, and others of smaller denomination of the United States currency. These certainly have very little claim to a place among coins, except as curiosities.

In the collection of fishes, I observed a very badly-prepared specimen of flying fish, and were it not for the great interest my friends will take in one preserved by me on the voyage across the water, it might be presented to this museum, so that the characteristics of this truly remarkable phenomenon could be appreciated.

Among the various specimens of cotton, those from the United States had precedence; yet there are several samples of cotton grown in Brazil which are nearly as good as those grown in the Southern States, and with proper culture this staple will doubtless be still more improved, as the climate is thought to be well adapted to its production.

There was quite a number of very fine specimens of coffee, the best of which were marked as being produced in Brazil. There is a great difference in the appearance of the samples from various sections of this country; and this goes to confirm the idea that many brands of coffee receive their names from the merchants here, or at the points to which they are imported. Persons of fastidious taste may thus have Mocha, Java, Laguayra, &c., &c., all coming from Rio, and yet leave a larger proportion to bear the appropriate name of this place. I know from personal experiment on one occasion, that deception in this respect is not difficult. Three specimens of coffee—the Mocha, Java, and Rio, so called—were all served in my house to a party of friends, and the vessels containing each specially noted by my wife. After the experiment of each, all the party concurred in pronouncing that which was known only to her to be Rio coffee as the best of the three; and were quite surprised when told that they had overlooked the supposed fine qualities of the other specimens. If they had been informed in advance what name was borne by each pot of coffee, doubtless the antipathy to Rio coffee would have manifested itself by condemning this article. But not knowing the quality contained by either of them, the verdict was rendered according to their real taste; and acting upon the suggestion, a bag of this was purchased, that proved to be really excellent coffee. I have met an Englishman here who says they don’t drink Rio coffee in London, and yet I am told that large cargoes are shipped to England.

After concluding our observations of the cabinet specimens, we made a tour of the general and special curiosities that are here gathered from all parts of the world. Several Egyptian relics in the form of mummies are here exhibited, and various antiquarian souvenirs from Pompeii[^[7]] and other places of historic fame. Many very showy garments used by the Indians of this country in by-gone days, and their implements for the capture of game, or for purposes of war, were presented for our examination and admiration.

I was quite interested in an immense living eagle, that attracted attention by frequently uttering a most harsh squall; and while other specimens of large birds show what they have been, this affords a present exemplification of vigorous animated existence. From the remnant of a chicken seen in the cage, I infer that the daily bill of fare is quite costly.

After leaving the museum, I went with Captain Buhlaw and his wife, in an omnibus, out on the line of railroad towards Tijuca, for a distance of four miles, and saw along the way many things of interest. This seems to be the most desirable portion of the suburbs of the city for the residences of private families, whose business does not confine them to the more densely populated streets. There is much taste displayed in some of the buildings and yards, and several really elegant improvements have been recently completed. The dwellings have, for the most part, large gardens attached, with a combination of the useful and ornamental, in the plants and shrubbery, rendering them quite attractive.

The majestic palm tree is seen standing in quiet dignity amidst the more unpretending and yet more useful growths of orange, banana, mamon, and the ajaca. This valley, lying between the mountain ridges on either side, is a level plain, with a clear stream of water running throughout its entire length. Much of the territory is not yet built up, and the lots are offered for sale by posting placards upon them, with the Portuguese words, Vende—se. This precinct is to the city of Rio de Janeiro what the vicinity of Central Park was to New York before its improvements were completed; and the day is not far distant when this route to Tijuca will become the most charming residence around the city. The soil seems to be well suited to the growth of vegetables, and I observed that they were receiving more systematic culture here than elsewhere, being grown, doubtless, for the market.

As the line of railroad to the small retreat of Tijuca is merely for the accommodation of persons residing there, and along the route, it affords most convenient and prompt transportation at stated hours, and thus makes the distance a matter of small moment to those living in this region.

Having learned that there would be preaching to-night at the Episcopal church, which is the only service in the English language in the city, I got directions to the place, and Mr. Mallory and I set out in search of it. By the use of an extemporized phrase of Portuguese, “Onde está Ygreza Ingliza?” I was enabled to find the house of worship. The service had already commenced when we arrived, and it gave an entirely orthodox exposition of the plan of salvation. The minister urged the acceptance of the Lord Jesus Christ, as our Saviour, upon all who had not yet laid hold of the promises of the gospel.

After leaving a land of Protestantism, and coming into this Roman Catholic country, it is very refreshing and edifying to be once more associated with Christians who hold the same great cardinal doctrines of faith with myself. This building is a plain substantial meeting-house, with none of the outward show of a church, and the interior presenting a neat but unostentatious appearance. There was quite a peculiar arrangement of the pulpit, at a considerable distance from the rear wall of the house, and elevated so as to require a sort of stairway for the ascent of the minister. The congregation was small, but consisting of genteel-looking persons; and, from their physiognomy, I concluded them to be chiefly English people, and certainly none of the Portuguese race. The minister impressed me very favorably by his simplicity of manner.

Notwithstanding that Mr. Mallory has been raised as a Roman Catholic, he remarked that this form of worship was more in accordance with his views of Christianity than the parade which he observed in the Catholic churches of this city; and that he expected to attend service with the Episcopalians, at this church, during his stay here. I find that none of our Catholics seem to have a favorable impression of the piety of their brethren of the church in this city; and they, consequently, manifest no inclination to hold fellowship with them in their ostentatious worship.

The demonstrations witnessed to-day in Rio show an utter disregard for the solemnity of the Sabbath. A large body of volunteers in holiday uniform, with a band of thirty musicians, were encountered early this morning upon one of the principal streets. In the next place, quite a number of soldiers, with their guns, badges, and flags, were seen assembled in a most gorgeous church, for the celebration of high mass. This ceremony was conducted with great pomp by the priest, and a large number of dignitaries held lighted candles of most enormous proportions, forming a concourse around the altar, which again was lighted up by hundreds of candles, though it was in open day, with a clear bright sun shedding its rays on all who would enjoy the light which God has given.

As we went in search of the English church this evening, we found a large assemblage of persons in a public garden, drinking in groups at tables arranged for the purpose, while a band was entertaining the party with music, from a stand erected for their special accommodation.

Immediately adjoining this garden was a building, in which a circus was performing, and we could hear the applause and laughter, such as might be expected at a farce or comic exhibition.

The day seems to be regarded rather as a holiday for amusement, and yet many of the business houses are kept open during the Sabbath, and there is no law of the country requiring its observance as a day of rest from labor, or to be kept holy to the Lord.

A great many of the people attend mass in the forenoon of Sunday, and then join in any recreation that may be presented. It seems that the theatres and opera houses regard Sunday evening as specially suited to attract a large number of persons, and usually have their most attractive pieces on such occasions.

In returning to-night from preaching, a large assemblage of negroes was observed immediately upon the side of the street, and, upon entering the building, we found it was a church for the exclusive use of the black people. Here many were kneeling in front of the altar, while some service was held by one of their own color; and, at a side stand, there was another black personage, who furnished applicants with a small printed paper, upon the payment of two coppers of the value of four cents. Mr. Mallory said these were no doubt indulgences for some sin committed, and the trade seemed to be going on prosperously. There were no seats in this building, and those who did not kneel sat flat upon the floor, as I have observed to be the case in all the services, when they did not stand. The churches do not have seats, and perhaps there is no regular discourse delivered to the congregations in this country.

So far as I am able to infer any thing of the spirit manifested in their acts, I should regard the religion of the people in Rio as having very little of the holy unction, and the natural tendency of a State establishment is that of formality.

Monday, September 18, 1865.

Immediately after breakfast this morning we called upon Dr. Bosworth, who had been at our quarters on Saturday without seeing us. He desired to apprise us of an appointment; that Major Pedro Latão da Cunha would accompany us to-day at 12 o’clock to visit the Minister of State. Of this we had already been apprised by the gentleman in person, and at the hour specified we proceeded with him to the large public buildings where this minister receives audience.

Captain Buhlaw having also an application for public service, accompanied Mr. Mallory and myself, and was included with us in the kind offices of presentation to Conselheiro Saraiva, the Minister of State for the empire of Brazil. Next to the Emperor, he is the highest dignitary of the land, and in his absence at the seat of war, this official takes charge of matters that are intended for the special consideration of the Emperor. We were received by him with every mark of attention and consideration; and the interview terminated with an assurance that each of us would receive the appointments as desired.[^[8]] He said, farther, that our applications were favorably considered, not so much from any demand for our services, as that the empire of Brazil wished to extend this recognition and appreciation of our motives, in coming to this country as a place of residence.

The prompt and definite hearing given to our respective claims impressed me very favorably with the business character of the minister, and his courteous manner lead us to entertain a high regard for him. Pursuant to a prior appointment, I called at the office of Mr. Milford to-day, to examine the papers pertaining to a tract of three thousand acres of land, lying near the Dom Pedro II. railroad, and within an hour’s run of the city of Rio de Janeiro. The price twenty-four thousand dollars, which makes it eight dollars per acre.

The place is represented as being under cultivation in rice and sugar-cane, and as having a fair outfit of farming implements, with cattle, for a limited sphere of operations. It is represented as adapted to the culture of coffee, cotton, corn, sugar-cane, and rice. I am further informed, by another party, that it is an old plantation very much exhausted, and every thing very much out of repair, so that it is not likely to meet the expectations which the glowing description in Mr. Milford’s hands is calculated to induce.

We called upon Mr. James E. Crenshaw, formerly of Richmond, Virginia, at the Exchange Hotel, during the afternoon, and had a very pleasant social interview with him. The past and the present of the South was discussed and considered, in regard to the future of our people in the midst of the circumstances by which they are surrounded. He said that he had been written to by many of his friends while in England, representing the many difficulties of their situation; but he had not been able to give them any advice as to the course it would be best to pursue at present. It would afford him much satisfaction to know what are the inducements presented to agriculturists in the interior of this country, and he requested me to inform him as to the result of my investigations.

We took a stroll this evening into the fashionable and showy business mart of Rua d’Ouvidor. This name implies a street of hearing, and was given originally from being the location of the courts for hearing and deciding litigated cases. It is, however, at present the street for seeing, and, with the ladies, for being seen. As those of elegance and refinement usually select the evening to do their shopping, this brilliantly illuminated thoroughfare affords the most favorable opportunity for an inspection of the better class of women. They may be seen making purchases, in the finely furnished store-rooms, or looking in upon the rich show-windows from the side-walks. These gaudy windows are not only supplied with extra gas-lights, but have mirrors on the outside, reflecting the dazzling brightness upon the articles for exhibition, and the glare is almost equal to the light of the sun.

My limited opportunity for seeing the ladies of elegance does not warrant the expression of any opinion as to their general appearance; but it is fair to infer, that some of those seen at different times and various places present the common characteristics of the sex; and there has been a marked deficiency of beauty on the part of those coming under my observation. I must allow, however, that they dress with good taste. There seems to be a partiality for black with ladies, as well as gentlemen, in this city; and both sexes are entirely free from that display of rich colors which is said to be characteristic of the Spanish people.

Gentlemen and ladies here manifest no disposition to ostentatious display, and yet seem to have a just appreciation of neatness and even elegance in their attire. The high-crowned slick beaver hat, which is vulgarly known among us as “stove-pipe,” is the usual head-dress of the Brazilian gentleman; and indeed this style of hat is generally worn by the respectable business men of the city. A slouch hat, such as is worn by business men in the United States, is not often seen here; and, though the panama hat is used by those who travel or go much in the sun, I have not seen a single specimen of what is called the tropical hat. In lieu of this cool and very appropriate style of hat, all persons who go out upon the street carry neat silk umbrellas to protect them from the sun, and to be used also in case of rain. An umbrella seems to be the “vade mecum” of a gentleman here; and if a friend finds you without an umbrella when going out from his house, he insists upon loaning one to you, so that it becomes a matter of courtesy to others to supply yourself with this accompaniment of almost all classes of men. This serves as a good and useful substitute for the walking-cane, or the riding-whip, so frequently carried needlessly by our people.

Tuesday, September 19, 1865.

This day has been devoted to looking round the city, and becoming acquainted with some of the prominent localities, in this extended area of widely-diversified scenery.

There are quite a number of conspicuous elevations within the corporate limits of the city, which are now occupied by private dwellings, and are considered the most desirable localities for families, both in regard to health and the pleasant breeze which reaches them, while the air below is close and warm. In the bay there are several islands, which afford desirable homes for families likewise; and on the margins of the water, around the borders of the city, there are many little nooks which afford quiet retreats from the stir and confusion of the business thoroughfares of the city. Botafogo and Praia Grande are among the most notable of these, and the former is especially captivating for private dwellings.

Across the water again is found the abode of numerous persons doing business in the city, besides constituting the residence of a considerable population, who belong to the place, and remain there permanently in various industrial occupations.

Receiving an invitation from Dr. Raney, the chief of the Ferry Company, to take a ride with him on one of the boats, we crossed the bay to the town of Nitherohi; and learned that this was entirely distinct from the city of Rio, being the capital of the province of Rio de Janeiro, and having its own independent municipal regulations. San Domingos constitutes an adjunct to this, and is the seat of numerous factories of cigarettes, while it is a most attractive home for private families.

There are two landings, at which these boats stop, and the number of persons getting on and off, morning and evening, are almost equal to that of the New York and Brooklyn ferry boats. There is not, however, such a continuous passing during the day and night, though a single boat finds profitable employment until 12 o’clock at night.

The fee for ferriage during the day is six cents. This is doubled from dark until 9 o’clock, when it is again doubled until 10 o’clock, and from this until 12 o’clock the last is doubled, making the fare fifty cents. Thus persons who keep late hours, attending theatres, balls, or parties in the city, are taxed with extra fare to return to their homes, and it must have some effect towards inducing men to remain with their own families during the evenings.

It is an interesting fact that these boats, being similar to the double-enders of New York, should have been brought across the ocean from the United States by their own engines; and though they were in a gale, and got separated on the way, they suffered but little damage, and reached here in good condition for service. Besides the two that steamed out, there was a third brought upon the water, by a temporary rigging of sails. The whole was superintended by Dr. Raney in person, and indicates much energy and business capacity on his part. There is another boat, which was purchased in Rio, and has been remodelled so as to suit this special service, but it is not yet ready to go upon the line of the ferry company.

The daily receipts on this line of ferry boats are not usually less than four hundred dollars, which no doubt covers the wear and tear, with interest on the capital, and leaves a large net income. Yet the payments required for putting every thing in thorough order has prevented large dividends to stockholders.

The Corcovado mountain is the highest accessible point around the city, and having a road to its summit, the visitor finds there seats for his comfort, and enjoys a view of all the surroundings of the city. Upon the slope at the foot of this mountain is a country which is resorted to by the curious, and presents many elaborate works of art, mingled with the beauties of nature, to grace the last resting-place of man’s frail body.

One of the most conspicuous features of the populated portion of the city is the signal telegraph at the observatory, upon the elevated Morro do Castillo. Here, a flag pole with arms and cords, for the attachment of various signals, stands in bold relief above the busy throng of people; and when a vessel is seen to approach from the ocean, such flags are raised as indicate to all the initiated what is the character of the vessel, and from whence she comes, usually two or three hours before her arrival. Upon this hill is also located the military hospital, which has the reputation of being a remarkably well-regulated establishment, for the treatment of those connected with the public service.

The monastery is a very extensive structure located upon the Morro San Antonio, and, being far above the ordinary haunts of the population, affords the monks comparative exemption from any of the annoyances of their fellowmen.

Upon the Morro de São Bento is located the convent, for the accommodation of the Sisters of Charity, and here, I am informed, quite a large number of nuns are congregated, as a place of perpetual seclusion from the snares and temptations that are supposed to beset the sex in this sinful world.

Among the elevations of celebrity, either for their public occupation or as the residence of persons of distinction, are the Morro da Gloria, Morro do Senado, and the Morro do Livramento.

While Rome is known as the city of seven hills, this designation might also be most appropriately applied to Rio de Janeiro, as her hills are the greatest attractions of the place, affording a delightful variety of scenery. Leaving the heights we may descend to the plains, and note some of the public establishments of most interest.

In the central portion of the broad level plain, upon which the business population of Rio is located, the Quartel des Municipals Permanentes is found, with all the structures and conveniences for administering the affairs of the city.

The public offices of the ministers and officials of government of the empire are situated upon the western border of an open space, called the Praca de Acclamacão, or the Campo de Santa Anna. On the south side of this space is the neat and yet modest-looking Congress Hall of the deputies of the empire. On the north side, in connection with the densely populated portion of the city, stands the large museum, of which mention has already been made at a former date. The street running to the east of this campo has upon the opposite side a large number of stores, with several buildings, in which there are apartments for the public officials of the government.

In the middle of this grand plaza stands a large opera house, which is the great resort of the common people throughout the city.

This magnificent piece of ground, commonly called the campo, lies quite unimproved as yet; and the washerwomen of the vicinity congregate here to use the fountains of water with which it is supplied, and to spread out their clothes upon the green grass that covers its surface. It will ere long receive the attention of the authorities, and be laid out in walks and decorated with flowers and evergreens, and must become a very attractive resort for the pent-up population of this metropolital rendezvous of all the nations of earth. It is only recently that much interest has been manifested in ornamental public grounds, and the Botanic Gardens, with other more central spots of land, already show the taste of a progressive administration, in beautifying and adorning the rural loveliness of nature by the chaste hand of art.

The most elaborate improvement to be seen in the city of Rio is the exquisitely executed equestrian statue of Dom Pedro Primeira, which stands in the middle of the Praca da Constituicão. The first Emperor is represented in full military costume on horseback, and with the scroll of the constitution raised aloft in one hand, while the other grasps the reins of the bridle.

The pedestal has upon its four sides, respectively, four pairs of Indians, with animals and reptiles, representing the regions named upon the corresponding faces. This portion of the structure has inscribed upon it, likewise, the principal rivers of the empire, arranged with relation to the localities indicated; and thus affords a historic picture of the country, with its geographical features, brought into one interesting group.

The base is made of neatly-hewn granite, and comports admirably with the massive elegance of the whole device. There are two small reservoirs of water, with a “jet d’eau” at some distance from the statue, upon each side of the square; and the artificial vines and foliage, with colored flowers, look so true to nature, that persons are very prone to suppose they have grown in the water. The grounds are laid out with excellent taste, and enclosed by a neat iron fence, giving an air of completeness and uniqueness that is eminently becoming to the subject.

Notwithstanding this handsome testimonial to the first Emperor indicates that he had endeared himself to his people, so as to make them feel pride in honoring his memory, yet his policy was so contrary afterwards to the wishes of his subjects, that he was under the necessity of abdicating his throne, and left the country to end his days in Portugal.

His lineal descendant, the present Emperor, succeeded him, and entered upon the exercise of his high functions, having a regent to officiate in the performance of the responsible public duties of the empire at the outset, and subsequently administering all his business with the most enlightened regard for the interests of his people.

It must be a source of painful reflection to every Brazilian, in looking upon this statue, to think that the original could not be sustained by the people who had placed him in authority, and though, like Washington, he may live in the hearts of his countrymen, his grave rests not upon his own soil, as that of the great North American.

Wednesday, September 20, 1865.

A communication was received quite unexpectedly, yesterday evening, from Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, inviting me to meet him this morning, at ten o’clock, at his house, number nine, Rua da Joanna.

Taking a hack, I proceeded to his residence at the time specified, and, upon entering, quite an awkward scene ensued, as neither understood the language of the other, and there was no interpreter present. Making an attempt to converse in French did not relieve our embarrassment, as my stock of the language was too limited to understand or to make myself understood in that tongue. At length, he wrote, at my suggestion, in French, that a gentleman who spoke English would arrive shortly to act as interpreter. Understanding this, I took a seat, and remained quietly until the interpreter came. Our intercourse being now made easy, he desired to know my views and wishes in regard to the measures that might promote the emigration of my friends to Brazil. I told him that the object of visit was to look for a home for my own family, and to make an examination of the country, with a view to report the result for the information of other families, whose unfortunate situation in the South induced them to desire a change of residence, and, in like manner with myself, hoped that a desirable location might be found in this country. He expressed a great desire to encourage the class of people to whom I referred, and said that he would take the matter at once into consideration, and devise a plan for assisting those who were desirous of coming to Brazil from the Southern States.

In the mean time, he proposed to render me all the aid in his power for a thorough examination of the country; and, as I had already concluded to visit the province of São Paulo, he informed me that a ticket would be furnished me to go by the steamer to-morrow to Santos, and that he would supply me with letters to the President of the province, and to other influential persons in different parts of the country. He told me that passage would be furnished likewise to an interpreter, if one could be secured, and that he would provide in like manner for any friend I might desire to accompany me on the expedition. He further stated, that under his direction to the President of the province, all the requisite facilities would be afforded to me by him, for my exploration of the lands lying in the interior of the province, and expressed a wish that I might find there a suitable location for myself and my friends.

I learned in the course of the conversation that the minister comes from the province of São Paulo; and, therefore, perhaps he feels more interest in giving encouragement to an investigation of that region, than if my examination was directed to some other quarter. My predilection for this locality being entirely independent of any partiality on the part of the minister, I will yet gladly avail myself of the advantages which may accrue from this fact, and with the offer of assistance in making a thorough exploration, I will, for the present, suspend all further action in regard to an appointment in the Hospital Department, and devote myself to this examination of the lands and resources of this fertile province.

The gentleman who acted as interpreter is the secretary of the Minister of Agriculture, and it was understood that he would bring to-morrow morning, to my quarters, the letters and other papers with which I am to be provided for making this tour of examination.

The ticket for passage upon the steamer was given to me to-day; and all the necessary indorsements and stamps put upon my passport at the treasury and police offices. I can now proceed with my personal preparations for getting off to-morrow, and will notify Major da Cunha of my leaving, so that he may take such steps as he may think proper, in regard to the paper which was to be prepared for the other mission. No calculation can be made as to the length of time I may be engaged in the examination of these lands, and my intention is to make a full report of all my observations, as a guide to my friends and others who may be interested in the resources of this country.

The residence of Senor Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, Minister of Agriculture, is in the precinct of São Christovão, and near the palace of the Emperor, where his family reside. But my pressing duties did not admit of any delay to visit the royal abode, and I must reserve the privilege of paying my respects to his majesty for a future occasion. I feel, however, no special inclination to wait upon the Emperor, unless business should require me to see him, and his time and patience are doubtless sufficiently taxed here with visits of mere formality. As he is absent at the seat of war just now, all the matters of business that would have taken me to see him will probably be disposed of by his ministers, and there will be no need to see him.[^[9]]

On the way to São Christovão, I passed the grand butcher pen of the city, which monopolizes the slaughtering of the cattle for the market. It is a large establishment, with spacious grounds, and a high cast-iron fence, having a gate of huge proportions with portals of hewn stone.

There is a tannery connected with, or adjacent to, this slaughtering establishment, and the large number of hides are thus turned immediately into the vats of the tanner. This place, called the “Cortuma de Mello e Sonza e Campo,” is represented as being a very fine combination of appliances for treating the hides in all the different stages of tanning, using the bark and leaves of native trees for the supply of ooze, by which the leather is tanned.

Though I could not stop to examine this tannery to-day, I was delayed opposite the gate of the slaughter-house, contrary to my wishes, for the driver of the diligence to blow up passengers for the return trip to the city, and received the above general report in regard to the same.

The conductor of this diligence used a brass horn to give the signal for departure and stopping, and when approaching a point where persons were expected, he blew continuously until the spot was reached; or if there was not a full cargo present, the bugle was used vigorously, as in this place, to hurry up all who might desire to take seats. Some of these omnibuses are fully entitled to the name, as they carry everybody with their families, being suited to the accommodation of forty persons at one time. I took a seat upon the outside, where I could see the various points of interest presented by the slopes of the mountain side and the improvements on the plain below.

Thursday, September 21, 1865.

Having completed my personal arrangements for setting out this morning to São Paulo, a very puzzling difficulty arose, by the failure to get my papers from the Minister of Agriculture, and, for a time, I thought of postponing the trip. It occurred to me, however, that the letters could be forwarded by mail, and as my passage was secured for this steamer, I took a row-boat, and paying one dollar for myself and baggage, was soon aboard of the Santa Maria steamer.

We remained at the anchorage nearly two hours after the time appointed for leaving, and upon stopping at the police station for examination of papers, I was pleased to find my friend Job, who had been sent by Mr. Davis, with the package of letters and documents from the Minister of Agriculture. The boatmen took advantage of this express service to charge two dollars and a half for bringing Job down, which, however, I paid very cheerfully, as the papers were very important to accompany me on arrival at the city of São Paulo.

My passport was examined by the police officer and returned to me, whereupon I secured my berth, and made myself quiet for the voyage to Santos.

The Santa Maria is a steam packet with two masts arranged for sails, and having side-wheels, with her aft deck covered by an awning, so as to make this position very pleasant for passengers. Her eating-saloon is large and airy upon the first floor, and the apartment, with spacious state-rooms, is below this, and has large ports by which the ventilation is effected very satisfactorily. Though each of the state-rooms has four berths, I, fortunately, had an entire state-room, which, rendered my passage very pleasant. My impressions of the general construction of this steamer, and her adaptation to the accommodation of passengers as well as freight, are decidedly favorable to the progress of Brazil in the art of building vessels. Though her engines are of English make, I am informed that all the work of constructing this steamer was done in Rio de Janeiro; and she is not only substantial and well-modelled, but finished in all her parts with good taste.

The management of those in charge of the Santa Maria looks to the cleanliness and neatness of every thing, and the bedding was found in excellent condition, while the fare was of good quality and very well prepared. All the regime of the packet was satisfactory to me, and yet there are some proceedings at the table which seem unnecessary, and especially the change of plates for each different article that is eaten. Those who desire several things upon a plate at the same time, indulge their taste of course; and as variety is the spice of life with me, I paid but little attention to the rule observed by most of the Brazilians, in making frequent changes of plates at breakfast as well as at dinner.

The demonstrative character of this people is strikingly illustrated at their meals, as each man calls out for any thing not within his reach, or even rises to his feet and reaches over the table for what is wanted by himself, or another, at a distant part of the table. Every one is expected to supply himself as far as practicable.

Persons who concluded their meals, and did not care to wait for those seated on the bench upon either side of them, crept under the table, and made their way out at the opposite side, where there was no wall to be encountered.

Wine is an invariable accompaniment of dinner, and after all is concluded, it is the custom to serve coffee without milk.

The custom of this country recognizes but two meals a day—breakfast being from eight to nine o’clock A. M., and dinner from four to five o’clock P. M. But it is usual to have a cup of coffee upon rising in the morning, and a cup of tea, with crackers or fancy cakes, is taken at night.

Tea is generally taken for breakfast by the Brazilians, and when I made inquiry at the breakfast table for a cup of coffee, it had to be made before it could be furnished. The cups here are exceedingly small, holding but little more than an ordinary wine-glass; and the coffee or tea is made strong in an increase ratio to the size of the receptacle, which suits my taste very well, as I have no fancy for long coffee, by which term the Brazilians style it when very weak.

My isolated position among strangers, whose language was unknown to me, was relieved by meeting aboard Senor Antonio de Barros, to whom I had been introduced at the house of the Minister of Agriculture. He speaks English, so as to carry on conversation very well, though he seems to be impressed with a sense of his deficiency in the use of the language. I found him quite kindly disposed, and in all respects a gentleman. He assisted me in making known my wants at the table, and on other occasions, giving me also a correct pronunciation of the few Portuguese words which I had acquired for necessary purposes. He proved to be a very genial and intelligent associate during the voyage, and gave me important items of information in regard to the province of São Paulo, in which he resides. He is a brother-in-law of Dom Antonio Paula Sonsa, the Minister of Agriculture, and his father is Baron of Rerecicoba, so that his associations are the best of the land. Having received his education as an engineer in Germany, he speaks that language and French as well as his native tongue, the Portuguese. His knowledge of English has been obtained from teachers and reading, without any opportunity of associating with people speaking the language. Under these circumstances, I was surprised that he should have so good a pronunciation and conception of the English language.

There was a young Portuguese aboard of the steamer who also spoke some English, and manifested a disposition to assist me in getting a vocabulary of Portuguese words. His pronunciation of English, however, was very defective, and frequently I could not understand what he attempted to say to me, which made our intercourse rather embarrassing.

There was a sleight-of-hand operator on the vessel, who afforded considerable entertainment by his tricks, with a small ivory ball and a cup or stand with a cover, in which this and other articles would be placed and removed at will, without any one being able to detect the process.

Our steamer kept in sight of land throughout the entire route, and occasionally passed between an island of rock and the shore, giving a fine view on each side.

Friday, September 22, 1865.

After a late breakfast, most of the passengers repaired to the deck, where comfortable seats were arranged for their accommodation. The atmosphere was quite cool, and with a brisk wind, I felt as if my overcoat would be acceptable, but being interested in the scenery I did not care to go below for the purpose of getting it, and I walked to and fro upon the deck, so as to keep my blood in active circulation. I was, perhaps, the only man who did not smoke, and most of them were using the cigarettes made of the corn husk, containing tobacco, which are very much in use here by all classes of people. In the Portuguese language this is called cigar, while our article of that name is called cherotte. The snuff is ordinarily called tobacco here, and the article for chewing fumo, thus changing all our terms in the Portuguese language.

We approached the harbor of Santos shortly after ten o’clock A. M., and the low flat land upon our left, forming a part of the large island upon which the city stands, was in striking contrast to the towering hills upon our right hand.

The fort, which is intended to guard the entrance to the harbor, is upon the mainland on the right as we approach. It is a rude stone work of small dimensions, with guns of small calibre in barbette, which would not prove effective in arresting a vessel of war that might attempt to move upon the city. This antiquated-looking fort was evidently constructed prior to the advance in fortifications, which has been made in the last quarter of a century. It is not such a work as should be relied upon by a nation actually at war with a power which has shown much reckless daring and considerable enterprise. All are aware that a vessel of the Brazilian government was captured by the Paraguayans, in the very commencement of hostilities, and that they have had armed vessels of war upon the waters, which might leave the immediate scene of operations, and make an attack at other more vulnerable points. It is to be hoped, however, that the determined policy of the Emperor will soon bring this war with Paraguay to a successful close.

Upon landing at Santos, I found a city that resembled in many respects the business portion of Rio, and having in the store-rooms large supplies of coffee and cotton. The streets are somewhat wider than those of Rio, but there is less activity in every department of business, and all the people looked as if there was plenty of time to accomplish whatever they had to do. Some of the buildings near the wharf have quite an antiquated appearance, and are doubtless remnants of the early settlement of this place, which was among the first of the country. Near this city is the famous São Vicente, where Martino Affonso founded the first colony that landed from Portugal, in 1532; but the port has become obstructed by sand, and it remains an insignificant village.

Having a letter from Dr. Henry C. Bosworth to Mr. W. T. Wright, of Santos, I proceeded to his business house, where he received me with respectful cordiality, and kindly invited me to his residence. I informed him of my expectation to proceed at an early hour next morning, and that it would be preferable to retain my quarters at the Hotel de Millen, where my baggage was ordered to be left. His invitation to take dinner, and make the acquaintance of his family, being accepted, he despatched a young man to see that my trunk reached the hotel in safety from the steamer, while we engaged in conversation as to the aspects of affairs in the South. He has been a modern advocate of our cause during the struggle, and sympathizes with us in our misfortunes.

My visit to the family of Mr. Wright was marked by such kind consideration, as to make me feel like I was again amongst old friends. His wife is a native of this country, but speaks English fluently, and has few of the characteristics, in person or manner, of the ladies of Brazil. They have two rosy-cheeked little boys, with fair complexion and sprightly dispositions, who seemed to regard me as one of the family.

I was much interested in looking around his very extensive grounds, and had an opportunity of tasting the guava fruit from which the favorite jelly is made. Here I saw, for the first time, the coffee tree bearing berries; and the prospect for a fair yield was favorable, though the trees had not received the attention requisite for the best result. The berries are at first green, then red, and afterwards black; the exterior capsule including two grains, with their flat sides in opposition. The tree bears some resemblance to the crape myrtle, and the berries are arranged in clusters along the small branches, from which they are stripped with the hand when ripe, as indicated by becoming dark.

In the afternoon I joined Mr. Wright in a ride upon horseback, across the level flat land lying between his place and the beach. This ground is covered with a low scrubby growth, and the soil has the appearance of being well adapted to the growth of rice, and perhaps also of sea island cotton.

In the vicinity of Santos, rice has been produced more successfully than in any other portion of Brazil; and if these lands could be brought into successful cultivation, their near proximity to the city would not only afford a ready means of disposing of the crop, but various articles might be procured to improve the soil for the production of other articles. Along the beach there are several neat private dwellings, with gardens attached to some of them, which present a very thriving aspect of all the ordinary vegetables. In the premises of one gentleman we saw also a very pretty variety of flowers and fancy shrubbery; and having a neat iron railing, the place presented quite an attractive appearance. These situations being some two miles from the city, with a good sea-breeze, and a very fine sandy beach in front, of several miles in extent, are the most desirable homes for families who have the means of indulging this retreat from business associations.

After returning at dark from this ride, I accompanied Mr. and Mrs. Wright to the house of a friend, where a small party was expected; and though I acted as escort for Mrs. Wright, my arm was not tendered to her as would have been expected with us, from the fact that I had learned nothing as yet of the habits and customs of society in this country, and had the general impression that the association of ladies with gentlemen was much more restricted than in the United States. At this place I had an opportunity of seeing a specimen of the social parties of the city; but was, of course, unable to hold any conversation, except as Mr. Wright interpreted between me and the gentleman of the house. Accordingly I felt that my presence was likely to prove irksome to all parties, and just as tea was announced, I excused myself at the risk of appearing rude, and went to look after matters of business, which were more in accordance with my inclination at this time.

Mr. Wright accompanied me, and presented me to Senor José Vergueiro, who resides in the interior of the province of São Paulo, and has the largest and best arranged coffee plantation in the country. He stated that it would afford him great pleasure to aid me in examining the lands of the province, and that he would cheerfully accompany me to see different plantations in his own neighborhood. He informed me that business engagements would necessarily detain him at Santos for several days, but that he expected to proceed to the interior within a week, and should I leave prior to that time, he would write in advance of going, so as to secure me a proper reception upon visiting his place and others in that section.

I was furnished with a letter by Mr. Wright to an uncle of his wife; Senor João Bernardino V’ra Barboza, at São Pedro, in this province. He has lands to dispose of himself, and will be able to refer me to others having large estates that may be for sale.

Upon parting with my newly-acquired friend, Mr. Wright, whose hospitality I enjoyed, he insisted that, on my return, I would make his house my home, in true southern style. Appreciating the spirit of his invitation, I of course accepted it.

Mr. Wright tells me that he has received some account of the lands and water facilities at a small town upon the coast, called Conceicão, which makes him suppose that it might be a matter of interest for me to visit it. When I return to Santos, he thinks that he can accompany me to see this place, and advises me not to make any definite arrangement elsewhere, until I examine that locality.

Santos has a good harbor, and sufficient depth of water for vessels of any magnitude. It is located upon an extended plane, which admits of indefinite appropriations for buildings; and, with a full supply of excellent drinking water, from the adjacent elevated grounds, there are presented favorable conditions for a larger city at no distant day. The railroad line already connecting this city with the city of São Paulo, and in process of completion farther into the interior, will facilitate very much the transportation of products to this point; which will afford a market, or be the medium of communication with Rio de Janeiro. Should the emigrants from the United States locate in the province of São Paulo, this city, being the principal seaport, will become the centre of trade, and must grow rapidly in all that pertains to business.

After my voyage through the country is completed, I may give my attention to the examination of some of the improvements of this city, which cannot be noticed now.

In this place, I may remark, that any extended travel in Brazil is styled a voyage, though it be entirely upon land. In the account of the tour upon horseback, made by the Emperor recently, across the province of Rio Grande, to the seat of war, it was spoken of in the Anglo-Brazilian Times as voyaging through the country.

Saturday, September 23, 1865.

Having enjoyed a comfortable night’s rest at the Hotel Millen, I awoke at the early hour of 5 o’clock A. M. with the sound of a pelting rain and howling wind. This precluded the thought of making an early move, as had been anticipated; but I got a cup of coffee, and held myself in readiness for any notice from the diligence. When the weather gave some promise of improvement I ventured out, and learned from the man having charge of transportation that it would be impracticable to take a boat to the foot of the serra as he had expected, but that horses would be provided and our baggage could be forwarded in carts. I ordered breakfast in my best Portuguese vocabulary, and got it somewhat in advance of the regular hour.

All things being in readiness, we set out about 9 o’clock A. M. for the diligence station, which was some eight miles distant, at the foot of the serra. Senor Barros and myself were on horseback, while his brother-in-law, Dom Barros, and sister were in a chaise with two horses, the extra animal being attached by a swingle-tree at one side of the shafts. The driver was seated flat in the foot of the chaise, with his legs out at one side, and urged his team forward at a good speed over the rough turnpikes. We reached our destination about 11 o’clock A. M., and at this point we entered a substantial vehicle, styled here a diligencia, intended for seating eight persons. There being but four of us, and a small boy besides, we had ample room, and sufficient space for the bandboxes also.

At the outset, seven horses were attached to the diligence, and a driver on foot took charge of those in front, while one on the box drove the four others that constituted the regular team. On the lesser slopes, and the occasional level portions of the road, we went at a sweeping trot; yet this pedestrian driver ran along with us at great apparent ease until we reached the ridge of the serra, making a distance of six miles. He then detached his three horses, which had been driven abreast in front, and took them back to the station, while we proceeded with the four-horse team upon a finely-gravelled road at a rapid gait.

The steep ascent of this mountain side is made by a zigzag road, which is cut from the slopes of the cliffs, and paved with stones. At some places there are precipices descending suddenly from the edge of the road to great depths, so as to make the traveller feel serious apprehensions for his passage along the rather narrow track of the road. I was told that mules have been sometimes forced over these abrupt edges into the awful gorge beneath, from the crowding of a large number into these narrow places, and their utter destruction is of course inevitable. There has been no instance, however, of any accident to the diligencia, which run this route from day to day; and hence a sort of guarantee of safety is afforded by this mode of conveyance, which is not felt upon the newly-constructed railroad line, which ascends the serra by inclined planes and stationary engines.

The deep gorges in the sides of the mountain have streams of water running from the more elevated parts, and in one of these recesses there is a cascade of much grandeur and sublimity. From the side of a cliff covered with green foliage, this stream seems to gush forth, and dashing downward with the greatest impetuosity from one ledge of rock to another, it finally goes surging and boiling through the mountain gorge, to form a tributary to the river below. I could not so far restrain my utilitarian ideas, as to keep out the impression of the immense water-power that might be wielded by this bold stream, were it situated at a favorable point for the erection of machinery.

Somewhat more than half way up the slope of the serra, there is a most enchanting view of the broad expanse of land and water around the city of Santos. Rarely does it fall to the lot of man to occupy a position more favorable for enjoying that fine contrast of mountain and plain, which is presented in casting the eye upwards along the crest of the serra, and then downwards over the placid and yet varied scene beneath, with the ocean seen in the distance.

The variegated green foliage which envelopes the slopes of the serra is a type of nature’s loveliness, and we may truly say of this grand panorama that “Beauty unadorned is most adorned.”

Between Santos and the foot of the serra, nearly a thousand mules were encountered, laden with coffee, cotton and other products of the interior, going towards the city of Santos. Though I did not count those which were passed after getting into the diligence, it is a fair estimate that an equal number were met after leaving the station. Thus we have about two thousand pack-mules, each carrying about two hundred and twenty-five pounds of the products of the country, making their way to Santos. Going in an opposite direction, there was perhaps an equal number, that had delivered similar articles, and were now laden with various kinds of merchandise for the consumption of the people in the interior; or in some instances with pieces of machinery for the improvement of their industrial appliances. In one instance, a mule was carrying two immense boxes, which literally covered it from head to tail.

It is much to be desired that this bungling mode of transportation will ere long be supplanted by the opening of the railroad line from Santos to São Paulo. It is said to be already completed; yet an accident upon the line, on the occasion of a trial excursion some months since, has perhaps served in part to induce the contractors to retain the use of the road exclusively for forwarding the necessary articles of construction for the portion of the line not yet finished. Not only is the demand great for the transportation of freight, but there is now a considerable amount of travel, which must at present avail itself of the diligence line and submit to all the exactions they see fit to make. I was told that the fare from Santos to São Paulo was fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) but in addition to this there was a charge of four millreas ($2.00) for a horse to ride to the foot of the serra, and a charge of three millreas ($1.50) for the transportation of baggage, making together twenty-two millreas, ($11.00.) The extras can be put on with the monopoly of the means of transportation, but if we had the line of cars upon the railroad, it would not only be cheaper, but more expeditious, though from present indications the safety of the railroad seems very problematical.

At the small village of São Bernardino, about half way from Santos to São Paulo, there are two very neat-looking tea farms, which succeed as I am informed in producing a very good article of tea. Really this is like an oasis in the desert; for there is scarcely another redeeming feature in the route from the serra to the city. If my estimation of the resources of Brazil had to rest upon the soil along this road, I should take no interest in locating here.

The ground in one particular locality was raised in mounds of various size, from that of a potato-hill to the extent of earth thrown up in burying a horse. This resulted from the operations of a species of ant called here copina, and if the soil had been fit for any thing previously, it would be rendered useless by the presence of these insects in such immense numbers, as the entire surface for a considerable area was covered with these hills of different proportions.

Besides this copina, there is another species of ant, called formica, which is very destructive to vegetables throughout this region. They burrow in the earth, at such depths, and by such circuitous channels, as to render it impracticable to destroy them except by fumigation with sulphureous gases, or other poisonous exhalations, that may be blown with an air-pump or by a bellows into their dens. This class of ants is said to be very troublesome in the agricultural districts of this province, and they are perhaps the greatest obstacle to the success of the planters in the cultivation of cotton, to which they are particularly destructive.[^[10]]

Notwithstanding the unpromising aspect of the lands generally, through which we travelled, we had a fair assortment of substantials for our dinner at the hack station, and especially was there a good supply of the staple commodity of the country, feijão, which is a variety of beans somewhat similar to our corn-field bean.

Our lady friend, who had been absent for some four years in France, had not perhaps enjoyed an opportunity during her absence, or since her return, to avail herself of the native feijão; and I was quite interested to observe the evident relish with which she partook of these beans.

On our route to-day we encountered a vestige of former days that is still in use in many rugged parts of the country, called the banquet.

It consists of a sort of box, as the body of the carriage, having shafts at each end, so that a mule may be placed in each, to bear the burden. With this firm and apt support, one mule having his tail to the body, and the other with his head towards the other end of it, progress is made successfully over the most irregular and narrow roads. Women and children are placed in this box-carriage and travel to any part of the country in comparative comfort and safety, and should any portion of our people go far into the interior, this is the mode of transportation which must be relied upon for families, as carts and wagons cannot travel over many of the roads in the country.

We reached São Paulo after dark, and I proceeded to the Hotel de Italia, and was pleased to receive the salutation of the landlady in my own language. She sent a servant with me to search for Mr. Preller and Mr. Sampson, to whom I had letters of introduction, but neither of them was found, and after returning, I went to my room. After sleeping until after midnight, I was awoke by the sound of music and voices in the house, and I could recognize the voice of our landlady, in the midst of others, speaking in an excited and elevated strain. Being kept awake for two hours, this did not seem in keeping with an orderly establishment, and I concluded that my landlady was quite too fond of company and late hours to suit my taste.

Sunday, September 24, 1865.

The humiliating confession must be made, that I had not noted the return of the Sabbath, and went out this morning for the purpose of doing some shopping. There was no indication in the business aspects of the streets that it was a day of rest, and it was only brought to my mind that I was violating this holy day by a remark of my landlady referring to the day of the week. I only bought, however, Vieyra’s small Portuguese and English Dictionary, which is in two volumes, so that one may be carried in each coat pocket, and be ready for use whenever a word is needed.

Mr. D. H. Sampson was found this morning at the Hotel da Europa, and my letter from Dr. Thomas Rainey, of Rio, being presented, he expressed his satisfaction upon making my acquaintance, and manifested a readiness to aid me, which was quite gratifying. He suggested that it would be more pleasant for me to move round to this hotel, as I would find more persons here speaking the English language, and with a view to introduce me to his friends he invited me to dine with them to-day at the Hotel da Europa.

As my experience at the Hotel Italia was not calculated to attach me to that establishment, I concluded to change hotels, and closed my account.

In the course of the morning I made the acquaintance of Mr. Newton Bennaton, who is a Brazilian that spent several years at school in Maryland, and speaks the English language as well as the Portuguese and French. He seemed at once to take an interest in the object of my visit, and offered to render me any assistance that lay in his power.[^[11]]

Monday, September 25, 1865.

Having deferred the presentation of my business letters, in consideration of the Sabbath, I proceeded this morning with Mr. Bennaton to see his Excellency Ill. Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, to whom I bore a letter from the Minister of Agriculture.

We were received with the customary courtesy, and it was soon brought to my attention that this same gentleman owned a large and fertile tract of land at some distance beyond Campinas, which he would either sell or lease. If it was desirable to lease land under cultivation, he would be willing to rent a quantity of open land at sixteen millreas ($8.00) per acre. We had nothing favorable to expect from this source, and accordingly thanking him for his tender of assistance, we took our leave of this honorable gentleman.

I was next presented by Mr. Bennaton to Senor Antonio da Costa Aquiar, who is an intelligent Brazilian that speaks the English language fluently, and it was arranged that he would accompany me to see the President of the province.

We accordingly proceeded to call upon his Excellency, Illm. Senor Idão da Silva Carrão, President of São Paulo, at his palace, which by the way was found to be rather unostentatious in its exterior, and simply neat and plain within. My letter from the Minister of Agriculture was delivered, and I learned that a private letter had also been received by the President from the minister in regard to my visit. The President indicated his disposition to give me all the requisite aid for exploring the province of São Paulo, and the interview closed, with the understanding that I would receive an audience next day at eleven o’clock A. M. for the consideration of details.

My reception here partook more of a simple business character than any previous meeting with the officials of this country, and it appeared to be viewed by the President and by Senor Aquiar as intended solely to accomplish an object. The attention of the President was evidently very much occupied with business which other parties brought before him, and several were in waiting when I was admitted.

His demeanor was respectfully courteous, and his general appearance was intellectual and dignified, while the characteristic attitude of the man of business was maintained throughout this rather brief interview with me and my interpreter.

My friend, Mr. Sampson, left the city to-day for his place of business on the railroad at Cachoeira, and placed me in charge of his room, with the key of his trunk, and authorized me to use any thing in it that might render me service until my baggage should arrive by the cart of the diligence man.

Already I had accepted his offer of a shirt, and now availed myself of another, which was needed. My baggage, however, came to hand this evening, and there will be no further necessity to resort to my friend’s trunk, which is well stocked with all needful articles. Upon leaving, Mr. Sampson informed me that he would have a negro man, who spoke Portuguese and English, in the city with a mule during the week, and should no satisfactory arrangement be effected with the President, that I could come up with this man to his place, where I should be equipped for my tour.

He proposed to get some one to accompany me, as interpreter, in communicating with the people of the country, and to provide animals for the expedition, for all of which I feel very grateful.

But, coming here, as I do, under the authority of the Minister of Agriculture, who represents the government of Brazil in this department, and bringing a letter from him to the President of the province of São Paulo, in which he is directed to provide the requisite facilities for examining the lands of the province, I must look to him for the means of proceeding. It is only when he may fail to do what is expected of him that I can consistently avail myself of this or any other tender of assistance from private individuals. My mission must have the sanction and indorsement of this public functionary to make it what is evidently designed by the Minister of Agriculture, a government enterprise.

Being now a boarder at the Hotel da Europa, and not a guest as yesterday, at the table of those speaking the English language, I may without impropriety allude to the demonstrative proceedings of the party at breakfast and at dinner to-day.

Had I not known that this party were drawn together by kindred feelings, as well as the same tongue, it might have been supposed that an open rupture was imminent, in hearing their impeachment of each other, and their apparently angry retorts upon one another.

The greatest confidence in their mutual good will constituted the key to these quasi violent assaults based upon supposed offences; and the actions being suited to the words, it is highly probable that those not understanding their kindly relations might infer a state of things very different from the reality.

In addressing the servants, who knew very little of English, the harshest language was sometimes used; while the most threatening attitudes and gestures were occasionally accompanied by casting a piece of bread at the head of a negro. It seemed to afford a sort of recreation to worry the black servants, by talking and acting in a way that was not understood by them, and especially when their slow movements or other shortcomings met their disapprobation. This table is spread in a room separate from the main dining-saloon of the hotel, and it is therefore a sort of private apartment where they are at liberty to do as they may be disposed without any stint.

There is not so much changing of plates with this group of friends as is customary with the Brazilians; but they indulge in all the variety of articles and in the different kinds of drinks that the country affords, and really live upon the fat of the land.

During the day, I was introduced to the Rev. A. L. Blackford, who is a Presbyterian missionary from the United States to this papal dominion of Brazil.

He manifests quite a cordial interest in my object and in my personal welfare. This feeling was doubtless enhanced by learning that I held a like faith with him; and he called upon me in the evening and took me to his home, to make the acquaintance of his wife. With a full appreciation of my reception, I felt that my lot was cast with friends, whose house was open to me at all times.

Tuesday, September 26, 1865.

In a conference with Mr. Bennaton, this morning, I learned from him that it would suit him very well to accompany me as interpreter on the proposed tour of the country, and that he had already intimated his readiness to go if a satisfactory compensation would be allowed by the President.

When we started to visit the President this morning, I suggested to Senor Antonio Augusto da Costa Aguinar, who accompanied me, the propriety of providing for the expenses of Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, as well as the employment of a camarada to take charge of the animals which would be required for the voyage.

In the course of the conference with the President, the question was propounded to me as to what compensation was expected by Mr. Bennaton; when I replied that he had not communicated to me the terms upon which he proposed to accompany me. The question was then asked, if I thought he would be satisfied with three hundred millreas ($150) per month; when I stated that it was not perhaps a matter of pecuniary consideration with Mr. Bennaton, and that he would doubtless be disposed to accept whatever was thought proper under the circumstances to pay him.

I was pleased to learn from Senor Aguinar at the close of the audience, that there was a prospect of having every thing arranged for my outfit; and after returning, I informed Mr. Bennaton of what had occurred, with the request of Senor Aguinar that he would call at his office in regard to the details of the arrangement.

He did not seem satisfied to undertake the trip upon the terms proposed; and after meeting Senor Aguinar, he had an interview with Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão, who proposed to confer with the President in reference to the compensation of Mr. Bennaton and the other provisions for this expedition. I can do nothing but remain quiet, and let them work out the matter among themselves.

The Rev. A. L. Blackford came to my room this morning and invited me to make his house my home while I remained in the city. While it was entirely agreeable to accept his hospitality, I told him that Mr. Sampson had kindly placed his room at my disposal, and that there were reasons connected with my business engagements that rendered it better to retain my present quarters. He left with the understanding that my meals would be taken with his family, and I accordingly notified Mons. Planet, of the Hotel da Europa, paying him five millreas ($2.50) for the accommodation of his establishment for one night and three meals of victuals.

Upon repairing to the residence of Mr. Blackford, at 4 o’clock P. M., I found dinner in readiness; and the cosy quiet trio, which he, madam, and myself made, around the circular table, was quite in contrast with the stirring scenes around the hotel table. Of course this retired situation suited my tastes better, and I felt really quite satisfied in my associations with this pleasant family. Though the gentleman is from Ohio, and the lady from Pennsylvania, there seems to be no political prejudice against the course pursued by the South, on the part of either; and indeed Mr. Blackford has sympathized with us in the recent struggle to resist the incroachments upon our constitutional rights by the Federal Government.

After dinner, we took a walk to the botanic garden, which was quite a recreation, though there is very little evidence of that culture which is requisite to render the place attractive. There are several pieces of sculpture, and among them a Venus and an Adonis; but none of them impressed me favorably as specimens of art or copies of nature.

It being Mr. Blackford’s custom to hold family worship at 8 o’clock in the evening, I proceeded with them to the lower apartment of the house, where the servants and some other inmates of his premises joined us in the service. He read and sung in the Portuguese, giving me an English and Portuguese Testament, in which I had no difficulty in following the reading of the chapter. The principal prayer was in English, but he closed with the Lord’s prayer in Portuguese, thus adapting the exercises to my want of knowledge of the language of the country, and also in part to the comprehension of the others present.

Wednesday, September 27, 1865.

Senor Dom Bernardo Gavão had a conference this morning with the President of the province of São Paulo, and it is now understood that he will make the arrangement with Mr. Bennaton on such terms as will be satisfactory to him for his services as interpreter.

It was intimated to me that in the event of failure by the President to meet the expenses of this exploration, Senor Dom Gavão would probably advance the funds that might be required to visit an extensive landed estate of his, which is located near the town of Araraquara and this would traverse a large portion of the province. I feel however no misgivings as to the course of the President in regard to this matter, as he is well aware that there is a public sentiment in this province which would sustain him in any encouragement given to the emigration of our people to this region; and he has besides the authority of the minister in appropriating from the provincial treasury whatever may be necessary to facilitate my movements.

My observation thus far is, that the officials of Brazil are disposed to pursue a very enlightened policy respecting the proposed emigration of the people of the Southern States to this country, and I have far more apprehension that we may be ultimately thwarted in our wishes by the interests of private parties, than from any failure on the part of the authorities of the empire, or those of the provinces, to meet our just expectations.

I went this evening with Mr. and Mrs. Blackford to examine the public bath-house, which has been recently fitted up in elaborate style, and is now to be opened for gentlemen and ladies at the rate of one millreas (fifty cents) per bath. The marble bathing-troughs and the neat apartments, with the refreshments provided by the proprietor, will no doubt secure a paying patronage. But the price is beyond the means of many who would like to indulge frequently in a bath, and it is therefore likely to be rather an aristocratic establishment. There is a frontispiece over the entrance to the building representing a mermaid, (half woman and half fish,) with the perfectly formed body and bust of a naked female holding a harp in her hand and resting upon the surface of waves that are very well delineated by the artist. This is a subject of considerable criticism, and yet really seems a very fitting prelude to the nudity of the bathing-room.

My position in Mr. Sampson’s room is very convenient for meeting those who wish to see me on business or otherwise, during the day or at night; and Mr. Preller, to whom I have a letter from Mr. Davis, spent nearly an hour with me this evening. Upon leaving he gave me the assurance of his readiness to serve me in any way that he could assist me.

Before leaving Mr. Blackford’s after dinner, a finely-dressed gentleman from Rio Clara called there to see me, and to represent the attractions of a coffee plantation which he had for sale. He expatiated in most eloquent strains to Mr. Blackford, but his valuation was far beyond our means.

Thursday, September 28, 1865.

Having a piece of gray cloth that I had brought from home, and desired to have made into a suit of clothes, Mr. Blackford went with me to the tailor shop. All the trimmings will be furnished, and coat, pants, and vest, made for fifteen millreas, ($7.50;) and they will be in readiness upon my return from the projected trip to the interior.

We went into the large building used for the law school, and saw one of the classes coming out of a lecture-room with the professor, who was rather a young man, in his long robe of black silk, flowing down to his feet. The young men appeared very genteel in their deportment and dress; and, for the most part, had arrived at full manhood. The term of their attendance in this course of study is five years, and if one does not come up to the standard required in the examination, or has received a certain number of demerit marks during the year, he is not permitted to graduate, and has to remain another year. In some instances two extra years have been spent, by those more fond of hunting or taking their pleasure than of confinement to study.

I am informed that there are five hundred students of law in this institution, and that there is another school at Bahia which has an equal or even greater number in attendance. These are considered first class institutions, but I have no means of knowing how they compare with similar schools in the United States or elsewhere, and can only say that the general standard of scholarship here is not equal to ours, though the requirements of time are longer.

There are two monasteries in form and estate located in this city; but there is only a single inmate as a monk in each, which serves as a nest-egg, upon which those in charge may perhaps incubate and bring forth some results; yet the Brazilian government has interdicted the initiation of any other monks. The property connected with these organizations is said to be immensely large and very valuable; consisting of lands and negroes in different portions of the empire. But it is supposed they will be escheated by the government, and thus these stigmas upon the face of society will be obliterated.

There are several Catholic churches in this place, and some of them of large proportions, but of very humble and sorry appearance compared with the towering edifices of Rio de Janeiro. The buildings here in the business thoroughfares are much inferior to those of Rio, yet there are some very tasteful houses and grounds on the border of the city near the railroad depot. The plan of the city is so very irregular as to mar its general aspects, and but few fine equipages attract attention on the streets. One of the greatest disadvantages of the city is the absence of gas, and it indicates a want of enterprise or a spirit of progress which should characterize the municipal authorities of this refined and intelligent people. This being the capital of the province, where many persons from abroad are assembled annually, and being regarded a good climate and healthy locality, it behooves those in charge of her municipal affairs to take a step forward and supply the streets with gas, and look to the correction of some other palpable deficiencies in the present regime.

The very agreeable announcement has been made to me by Mr. Bennaton that all the necessary provisions for the trip to the interior had been arranged by the President, and that he has already received seven hundred millreas ($350) to meet expenses on the way. The animals, however, are represented as being in wretched plight, and the camarada has not yet been secured to take charge of them upon our journey. He expects to take two mules of his own and his own servant, so that our outfit will include at least six animals; two being required for pack-mules, to carry our baggage alternately. It is his present expectation that we will start on Saturday morning, and go up that night to Mr. Sampson’s place at Cachoeira. But there are contingencies which may prevent our leaving here before Monday, and it will suit me better now to remain until then, as I do not wish to travel on Sunday when it can be avoided.

Had I known at the outset that our preparations would have been so much delayed, it would have suited me very well to visit some places in the vicinity of the city, which have been reported to me as having some interest for our objects.

One is a large landed estate belonging to the government, that is occupied by the Baron of Itapitaninga, and yet subject to the disposition of the authorities at any time. But I take it for granted, there cannot be much fertility in any land convenient to the city.

There is another place consisting of nearly a square league of land, constituting a fazenda, called Bananal, that lies some sixteen miles from the city.

Again, a larger territory at Bragança has been recommended to me. But I can’t see them now.

Friday, September 29, 1865.

A pair of spurs and an umbrella have been procured to-day to complete my personal equipment for the voyage; and all is in readiness on my behalf for departure. It is reported to me, however, that the arrangement as to the animals and the camarada have not been consummated as yet, and that we cannot leave to-morrow as was anticipated. In view of this, I have intimated to Mr. Bennaton that every thing can be arranged for our departure on Monday morning; and it is now a fixed fact that we set out at that time to enter upon the promised tour through the territory of this province. I have much reason for congratulation, in thinking that the officials in Rio de Janeiro, and also at São Paulo, have done all in their power to promote my object; and at the same time, I am gratified with the kind spirit which has been manifested by a number of private persons, who have expressed their readiness to serve me in any way it might be acceptable.

In view of the liberal provision made by the President of the province for the defraying of all expenses of travel and an interpreter, I have determined to send him a letter of thanks, expressing my obligations for the same. It has also appeared to me eminently proper that the public may know that this favor is duly appreciated, and I will therefore suggest that my communication be published in the daily papers.

With the notices in the newspapers at this place, and the letters of introduction from various persons, with those of the Minister of Agriculture, I hope to receive a favorable consideration from the people.

Saturday, September 30, 1865.

A ride was taken in the afternoon to the suburbs of the city in company with Mr. Blackford. We passed the Catholic cemetery, which is enclosed by a substantial and very high mud wall, that is whitewashed, and presents a very neat appearance.

In looking through the bars of the massive wire gate, I observed several elaborate and costly vaults arranged on each side of the way to the chapel, which seems to be located near the centre of the grounds; and the evidence of taste and attention was greater here than in most of the structures for the living.

There is a Protestant burying-ground adjoining this cemetery, but the rude mud wall, and the rough and uncared-for aspect within, brings home to the passer-by that this element is weak and powerless compared with the dominant religion of Brazil.

The small resources at the disposal of Protestants are more appropriately applied to disseminating the truth among the people than in adorning a place for the dead, in the proportion that the soul is of more value than the body.

A brickyard was visited, about one mile from the city, which indicated more mechanical adaptation of means to the end in view than is seen in most parts of this country. A good substantial cast-iron mortar-mill, and a well-constructed furnace for burning the brick, with an extensive tile-covered shelter, rendered this establishment very complete. The price of brick being here, however, forty millreas ($20) per thousand, will soon repay the manufacturer for any extra expense in preparing to furnish them. There are two other establishments for the making of brick and tiles somewhat more distant from the city, and it is likely that henceforth houses of much importance will be constructed of brick, instead of mud walls, as heretofore; though the exorbitant price, as yet, will prove a barrier to their extensive use, and it would pay to make them on a larger scale, at half present price.

A little incident is worthy of record here, as illustrating a phase of Brazilian life. Upon pronouncing my appreciation of a very fine horse, rode by the owner of this brickyard, as “Muito bonneto,” (very pretty,) he replied, “Está as suas ordeus,” (he is at your orders;) which was explained by Mr. Blackford to me in English, to mean simply that he was gratified with the remark, and did not imply any expectation that I would avail myself of the use of the animal. This answer is very common when any thing is complimented; and there is an anecdote told of a distinguished gentleman travelling in foreign parts, who used a very costly and elegant shawl. It was complimented by some one, and, in return, tendered to the party, who accepted it as a present. Another of equal elegance was procured by the gentleman, and was again the subject of admiration, when it was in like manner tendered and accepted. A third most exquisite covering was now obtained with some considerable difficulty by our tasteful and very polite connoisseur in this department; and, upon presenting himself in society, a friend was enthusiastic in his laudation of its elegance and beauty. But, with the recollection of the past, the gentleman apologized for not making a tender of it, with the remark, that he had learned that it was the habit of people there to accept what was offered, and having no prospect of finding another to suit, he must be excused for retaining his shawl.

The country around the city has a dreary, barren aspect, and there is but little evidence of cultivation, except in small patches or gardens, where manure is used to promote vegetation, with only moderate results compared with those of good lands.

October 1, 1865.

Wishing to observe the Sabbath as a day of rest, and, as far as practicable, keep it holy to the Lord, it was my wish and expectation to take no step to-day towards my projected expedition, and supposed it was so understood by all concerned. Yet I was informed by Mr. Bennaton this morning that it would be necessary for the camarada to start to-day with the pack-mules, so as to let them travel leisurely, and reach the point in three days, to which we would ride upon our better animals in two days. My baggage was accordingly arranged, and the voyage initiated by sending the pack-mules off in advance to-day, though we do not leave until to-morrow morning.

The Portuguese service, at the residence of the Rev. A. L. Blackford, was attended to-day by about twenty-five persons, and though I could not understand what was said, the gravity and apparent interest of the hearers impressed me favorably. It was a mixed congregation of Portuguese and negroes, several of whom have already made a profession of faith in the Lord Jesus Christ as their Saviour, and become members of the Protestant church, which is established, in an informal way, under Presbyterian auspices, by Mr. Blackford. He holds a meeting regularly every Sabbath morning, for preaching, and one in the afternoon, for a practical lecture and catechism exercise. Some of the youths seemed to answer very promptly, and their manner indicated considerable intelligence. It was very evident that most of those in attendance at each service were from the humbler class of society, and there will be great difficulty in reaching the higher class of people with Protestant doctrines.

After the second service, we took a simple repast, such as is the custom of the house on Sunday, and though there was little cooked afresh, the supply of articles was quite sufficient to meet all the wants of nature for nutriment.

Mr. and Mrs. Blackford then proceeded together to visit some families where persons were inquiring the way of salvation; and they informed me it was their custom to spend every Sabbath evening in this kind of duty.

It is to be hoped that their efforts may be blessed to the enlightenment of the minds of the people, and to the salvation of the souls of many who are now in the most hopeless darkness. It really seems that this papal dominion induces a worse state of the heart, in regard to holy things, than the want of all religious instruction would be likely to exhibit; and the form of religious services takes precedence to holy living.

One of my greatest difficulties, in proposing to locate with my friends in this country, is the conviction that we cannot so entirely set aside the recognized religion of the government as to worship God according to our own faith. It will, however, be an essential stipulation, that we shall exercise entire freedom of conscience, without any interference in our religious worship by the official authorities, while our policy will be to detach ourselves as far as possible from all associations with the papal element of the population.

I have brought these matters especially to the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, and, from what I learn of his general character for liberal views and high-toned, independent action, it is reasonable to expect some definite and satisfactory measure will be adopted through his influence with the government.

Monday, October 2, 1865.

Getting an early breakfast at the Hotel da Europa, Mr. Bennaton and I started on our tour at 8 o’clock this morning. I was mounted upon a gray horse of rather unpromising appearance, that afforded quite a precarious reliance for an extended journey through a rough country; but my friend Sampson having returned to the city, made an arrangement by which this animal would be replaced by a mule belonging to his partner, Mr. Gephardt, upon our arrival at Cachoeira. He likewise placed at my disposal a McClellan saddle for the trip, and being accustomed to use this style of saddle, I will gladly avail myself of it.

Mr. Bennaton had two fine mules of his own, which he expected to ride alternately; one being led by his servant who was mounted upon a horse furnished by the President for this voyage.

We stopped at an inn styled here “hospedana,” some eighteen miles on our way, where we got a lunch of sardines and mush made of farina, called here “angu.” Our animals were also fed and rested for two hours, when all being refreshed the travel was resumed. We reached Cachoeira, the residence of Mr. Sampson, at 5 o’clock P. M., and just in time to take dinner with the party. Mr. D. H. Sampson and Mr. Gephardt were left at São Paulo, but a telegraphic despatch had preceded us, and we met a hospitable welcome by Mr. S. Sampson and Mr. Dully, with Dr. Clary, who was a guest in the house. The last-named gentleman, like myself, has been identified with the movement of the South, and has left the country with a view to make his future residence in Brazil.

Tuesday, October 3, 1865.

Early this morning I set out from the house with Mr. S. Sampson to visit the tunnel which they are working for the extension of the railroad from the city of São Paulo to Jundiahi. It has already been opened entirely through, after immense labor in blasting rock throughout the whole extent; and the work now consists in enlarging the space overhead, by blasting the rock from the roof of the tunnel. There is a temporary track with iron rail, and a mule-car running from the work to the outlet, by which the loosened stone is being discharged constantly. Yet there is a large accumulation of boulders and irregular masses of quarried rock lying near the scene of operations. This drilling of holes overhead requires great accuracy in the striker; for should he miss the head of the iron drill, the force of his blow with the large sledge-hammer would be upon the hand or wrist of the person holding the drill.

It is said, however, that accidents are rare, and when the hammer glances from the head of the drill the injury is not likely to be serious. This tunnel has a shaft running up from the middle to the surface of the ridge; and some months ago, while letting down four negroes, the cable parted, precipitating them upon the rock beneath, by which three were killed, and the fourth crippled for life.

In entering the tunnel the darkness made a lamplight necessary, and the roughness of the way, with here and there puddles of water, rendered the use of a staff essential to safe progress. It was quite cool in the tunnel, as a current of air is circulating constantly through its entire extent; and thus the large number of laborers employed suffer no inconvenience. When this work is completed, all the line to Jundiahi will be ready for laying the track with iron.

The road is already in running order from Santos to São Paulo—a distance of forty miles—and when completed from São Paulo to Jundiahi, there will be an addition of forty-five miles, making a continuous line of eighty-five miles. It is projected, and surveys have already been made, to construct a further extension of the road from Jundiahi to Campinas, a distance of twenty-six miles.

Could I feel assured of the ultimate completion of this line of railroad to Araraquara, it would enhance very much the interest I will take in examining lands in that remote territory which I expect to visit.

Our route to-day lay along the line of the railroad, and I was forcibly impressed with the appropriateness of selecting this region for a railroad, as it is most assuredly little fitted for any thing else; and ought to be good for this object, upon the principle of the man who recommended his dog as a good coon-dog, because fit for nothing at which he had ever tried him.

If this land prove good for laying a track, the owners ought to congratulate themselves that a portion of it can be wrested from the copina and formica, species of ants, which seem to have undisputed sway in most parts of the territory through which we passed on our route to Jundiahi.

Mounted upon the fine sprightly mule which was furnished me at Cachoeira, I ascended and descended the various elevations over which our route lay without feeling any apprehension for my safety; and moving briskly, we reached the inn of Senor Pinto, one mile beyond Jundiahi, before 12 o’clock M.

After getting dinner we rode back to survey the village of Jundiahi; and found that it had one rather comely-looking church, with two others that presented quite a dilapidated look. There was also a jail, at which a military sentinel was on duty; and it perhaps contained some of the patriotic recruits, who are taken in chains from this section to São Paulo, and thence sent to Rio de Janeiro, for service in the army against the Paraguayans. We have met on the road a number of these fellows handcuffed, and with a chain secured around their necks, under a mounted guard, who seemed to think that they were doing the country good service, from the large number in charge of a few prisoners.

The architectural taste displayed in Jundiahi is not likely to become a pattern for future builders, and therefore I need not go into any special details; yet the fancy painting around the lower portion of the fronts of the buildings upon the street indicated that they were making progress in the fine arts, and that the artists had simply made a trial of their material here, preparatory to greater attainments, when the arrival of the steam-engine may supply them with a better model.

A few small patches of coffee tree were seen near the village which seemed in a thriving condition, and indicated a yield far beyond what might have been anticipated from the appearance of the soil. A change, however, in the land, seems to commence near this place, and it assumes here very much the aspect of red clay, but in some parts the sandy soil predominating, and all lying very irregular, except immediately upon the streams.

I was impressed with the adaptation of the Jundiahi river, a small stream which runs near our inn, for the location of machinery of limited water-power; and when the railroad reaches this place a good mill or cotton ginning establishment would be likely to prove very advantageous on this river. The fall is not very great, but could be arranged so as to afford all requisite power for this or some similar purpose.

Our quarters were so infested with fleas that I found it necessary to rise in the night and denude myself, so as to remove those that might be in my clothing. After this I returned naked to bed, and wrapping up in the sheet closely there was no further annoyance. This was an experiment with me, and it succeeded so well that I commend it to others when they may be thus unfavorably situated. The dirt floors of this house, and the swine around the doors, presented this nuisance; while our bedding and the outfit of the apartments were in very comfortable order, and clean.

At this point we overtook our camarada and pack-mules, which had been sent ahead of us. Getting a change of clothing from our baggage, the camarada was again sent in advance, so that his mules would not be required to travel as fast as we would ride. The train now consists of eight animals, and the mule upon which I am mounted makes nine, which is rather more than would be desirable to move together. Our baggage trains, consisting of four mules, two belonging to the camarada, and two of the government stock, which are very poor and weak, requires to move slowly, and can take more time by going forward while we stop, either for repose, or the examination of places of interest during the afternoon.

Wednesday, October 4, 1865.

Moving off this morning at 8 o’clock, we proceeded about fourteen miles, and halted at the house of a German for two hours. This man had originally come into the country as a colonist of the government, and getting a little means had bought this place, paying fifteen hundred ($1500) dollars, for three hundred acres, with a dwelling and other improvements. Here the soil is evidently better than that below Jundiahi, and seems to be well adapted to the growth of corn and cotton. I saw here a specimen of the lint of the pina tree, which is a beautiful, silky-looking fibre, as white as cotton, and when mixed with it makes a beautiful fabric; but it has not strength of fibre when used alone to give proper texture to cloth. The pod is large and spherical, growing upon a tree which is very large and tall, and though the yield is generally abundant, the difficulty of procuring the lint is so great that very little is gathered. Eventually the pods fall to pieces upon the trees, and this fine silky cotton is blown broadcast through the forests. We got at this house a very good meal, consisting of Irish potatoes, corn bread, beans, farina, spare ribs, fried eggs, with a dessert of honey and sweet milk. Coffee was also served after dinner, as is the custom everywhere in the country, but I declined it, as all my available capacity was preoccupied by other things. After leaving this place, and proceeding towards Campinas, we began to see the successful culture of the coffee. The extensive plantations, extending with the greatest regularity as far as the eye could reach, presented a most attractive feature after passing the dreary waste for two previous days.

We saw at a point within two miles of Campinas some negroes engaged in loading a huge oxcart with the crude berries of the coffee, from an immense pile that had been gathered from the trees growing along the side of the road. The ground under the trees is raked clean preparatory to stripping the berries with the hand, and an immense broad flat receptacle made of the bamboo cane is placed under each tree, but what fails to fall in this is easily swept up from the smooth earth into a pile, and then taken up and put into the receptacle. These are emptied into piles convenient to the road, from which the coffee is hauled to the drying-yard, where it is spread out and watched carefully to guard it against rain. When dried it is submitted to a process for taking off the hull, and then fanned to clean it more thoroughly, or even by some submitted to cleansing by washing.

Having turned off from the main road to Campinas, we were accommodated with quarters at the antiquated-looking fazenda of Senor Vicente da Sonza Queiroz, who resides in São Paulo, and gave us a letter to his administrator at this place, with the expectation that we would stop here a few days.

After being shown around the premises, Mr. Bennaton and I walked through the back yard into the grove of orange trees in the garden, where we found only bitter sweets that were not desirable to eat. When we returned the old administrator (another word for overseer) expressed himself as not being satisfied with our going into the back yard without notifying him, and there being two single daughters on the premises was doubtless the cause of his concern about our visit. All these people, who have not been in contact with the outside world, think it a solemn duty to keep their females in great seclusion. It may be that this old fellow was afraid we might get a peep at the girls, while perambulating his back yard. They have not however been seen as yet, and, unless affording a remarkable contrast to the appearance of their father, it is not likely they will afford much attraction to the gaze of the curious. With every thing about the house of plain style, we are very comfortably fixed, with a large airy room, and two sleeping-apartments.

The coffee apparatus at this place is of the oldest and most elementary construction, and therefore it may be appropriately described in the outset of my observation. In the first place the yard for drying is simply a firm smooth surface of the ground, with a shelter at one side of it, under which the coffee is carried in baskets, if there is a prospect of rain. When this drying is completed, it is taken into a circular box of perhaps fifteen feet diameter, and subjected to the operation of a large wheel of wood, having a surface of twelve inches, that rolls round in this circular box containing the grains of coffee, and bruising or crushing off the hulls as it passes repeatedly over them. This wheel revolves upon a sweep or beam, to which oxen are yoked and move on the outside of the ring, while the sweep is attached to an upright post in the centre of the ring. After this slow and bungling procedure has done its work, the coffee is fanned or screened and afterwards a hand sieve is employed with blowing by the laborers, to remove the fine investments of the grain. That portion which it is thought necessary to wash is now washed in large wooden troughs by hand, after which another drying process completes the preparations for market.

I saw, at this place, that remarkable phenomenon, called the Monjolo, and really was impressed with the simplicity of this primary exemplification of the mechanical adaptation of means to an end; but I could not restrain laughter at the ludicrous display of see-saw motion which was kept up every half minute. The apparatus, if it is entitled to be dignified by that name, consists in an upright support for a beam, which works by a sort of hinge upon its top, and having at one end a pestle secured beneath it, that plays into a mortar, while the other end of the beam is excavated into a trough. The water pours from a small channel or conductor into this trough, and when filled it becomes heavier than the other extremity. This end is thus depressed, while the other is raised aloft; and the slanting position allowing the water to escape, there is no longer sufficient weight to counterbalance the end having the pestle, and consequently it descends forcibly into the mortar; pounding, by its frequent repetition, whatever may be placed in it. So soon as the level is again brought about, of course the water again fills the trough, and it is again depressed and emptied, keeping up a constant see-saw operation, day and night, unless the beam is propped aloft, and thus its motion arrested.

The fulfilment of that ideal principle of perpetual motion is more nearly attained in this extremely simple mechanism than by any machinery with which science has favored the world; and though much more efficient means have been devised, of accomplishing all that can be done by the Monjolo, yet its ready adaptation, with a very small stream of water, renders it useful in the hands of many, who cannot employ other labor-saving appliances. It pounds coffee, big hominy, farina, and would beat dough finely.

Thursday, October 5, 1865.

Breakfasting at Tapera, the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, at which we were quartered, we mounted our mules, with a servant upon another, and set out for the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral. The rest of our train was left at Tapera until our return, and with a fine pasture and plenty of corn, the stock ought to improve by the rest. After riding something over four miles, with the assistance of a guide we reached the large and really elegant establishment of the gentleman above-named. Presenting the letter which we bore to him, he gave us a reception which assured me we would enjoy the visit, and the result fully confirmed my anticipations.

Although I did not speak his language, yet he seemed to communicate his spirit through the words reported to me, and evidently thought and spoke with much intelligence. While his bearing was dignified and refined, there was a familiarity and simplicity in his manner that soon caused me to feel easy in his presence.

He ordered refreshments for us, and a large waiter was brought by the servant with coffee, ale, and brandy; but we only partook of the ale. I had taken coffee before breakfast, and then café leite (coffee with milk) at breakfast, and really had no mind for any further stimulant, but courtesy demanded that something be taken.

The parlor of Senor Bonifacio is spacious and furnished very tastefully; but the plan of the house is marred by having the small bedrooms, called here “alcova,” without proper ventilation, and opening into the parlor. These are also neatly furnished.

A separate apartment was assigned to each of us, and every thing furnished that could be desired. The beds were particularly neat, the pattern of the bedstead being that of the French style for a single person, and yet very capacious, upon which lay spring-mattresses of the best quality, and the whole covered with sheets and counterpanes of the whitest hue and most tasteful pattern. The elegant earthenware jug, or large bottle, for holding water to drink, was in a plate of the same material upon the table, and is a very convenient article that is much used here for keeping the water cool, and, at the same time, free from dust that enters a pitcher. A fine china bowl and pitcher were also at hand; and at night, a bathing-tub of metal, two feet and a half across the mouth and eight or ten inches deep, was brought in and filled with water, in which it was a luxury to perform ablutions. This feature of every well-regulated Brazilian dwelling is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inmates of a warm climate; and yet, a large proportion of the people here use tepid or even warm water for bathing their persons or their feet, when cold water would evidently be more pleasant and more invigorating.

A new model of candlestick, with a glass upon it to protect the light from the current of air in carrying it, was used for our bedrooms, and, apart from being very appropriate, was made of silver in the most tasteful style.

The dining-room in this establishment, as in most houses of the country, is very large; and, although the family-table is perhaps fifteen feet long, a table of twice that length could be accommodated in the room. Every portion of the table-furniture was neat, and yet no special display in the ceremonies of the table. The gentleman of the house was seated at one end of the table, with his wife upon his left hand and myself on his right, upon the opposite sides of the table. There was neither ham, turkey, or fowl of any kind for dinner, which in our country are considered essentials to a well supplied table; and yet there was quite a sufficient variety of articles to constitute an excellent dinner. Roast beef and beefsteak, mutton, and pork were all served in the most approved modes, and with a good assortment of vegetables and a delicious dessert, the dinner was relished very much. Wines of the finest quality were upon the table, and coffee of superb make was served after all other things were concluded. The combination of wines and coffee seems to be an excess of stimulants in the routine of dining in this country, and cannot be promotive of digestion; but I relish very much the small cup of fine strong coffee, such as we had here, and will fall into this habit of coffee after dinner without any difficulty.

After dinner, we were furnished with horses of most excellent saddle-qualities, and accompanied our host, Senor Bonifacio, in a ride to his plantation. Here we saw the coffee trees in full bearing, planted in lines and squares, so as to make the distance about nine feet between each tree, and extending over a very large area of land. The appearance of this field gives evidence of much careful attention, and though the coffee trees continue to grow in the same place from fifteen to twenty years, it is found to be important to their production that the land should be kept in good order; and, if not cultivated in other things, it is annually cleaned around the trees, and very often a compost, formed by the hull of the coffee with other articles, is put upon the ground to enrich it.

There were some young trees recently planted which had not borne any coffee, and a crop is not expected until the fourth year after setting out the plants, unless the plants should be over a year old, and then a partial yield will be obtained at the end of the third year from transplanting.

A nursery of the coffee plants was shown to us, and presented much the appearance of a young plumb thicket, when the sprouts had reached the height of from eighteen inches to two feet. This coffee nursery had been planted among some advanced stalks of the mandioca, which served to shade them when young and tender; and they had been gradually thinned out to give the plants more air and sun as their growth advanced. There was a large piece of ground in readiness to receive these plants so soon as there might be sufficient rain to transplant them.

This land had the timber felled and dried, when fire was applied and burnt over the whole, destroying all the leaves and small limbs, and yet leaving the larger limbs and trunks upon the ground. In the midst of this network, it was expected to set out the coffee trees, and between them to plant corn and beans, with the expectation of getting a full crop of the latter articles. Of course no ploughing is practicable, and all the work is done with the hoe, as is the case with nearly all the culture of this country.

The corn which had been planted here had usually five or six stalks in the hill, and I observed from the number of old stalks from last year, standing in some places together, that it is the custom to let this number remain in one place. Although the yield is reported to be good with this mode of culture, it is very evident that fewer grains in a hill and the use of the plough would enhance the result.

Senor Bonifacio showed me a specimen of a large many-toothed plough, which was of French manufacture, and fitted alone for ground that was smooth and without roots. He has also a specimen of the large American plough, which is better adapted to ordinary use. But he has done little more than experiment with these implements, and the difficulties attending the use of the complicated French ploughing machine will be a barrier to its successful employment; while the want of knowledge and of training on the part of negroes and animals will doubtless prevent him from turning the other to practical account. The farmer of the United States is needed here to learn the fazendeiros of Brazil the proper use of the plough, and should any considerable number remove to this country, they will effect quite a revolution in agriculture in a few years.

The trunks of many of the immense trees which had constituted the original forest were lying upon a piece of fresh land, and the Pon D’Alho and Figare Branco were pointed out to me as the indications of good soil, when found thus in close proximity. The former has the smell of garlic, even in the dry state, and when burned, it yields a large proportion of potash from the ashes. It is said likewise to have the property of attracting the magnetic needle to such an extent as to interfere with the accuracy of the compass in surveying lands where it is to be encountered.

The Jangada is a small tree which springs up on land of good quality which has been under cultivation, but is thrown out to rest and recuperate. The second forest growth upon this kind of soil is called in the Portuguese language “Capoera;” and the land varies in quality, as it has been more or less exhausted by the first cultivation. Hence the importance of noting those growths upon it, which indicate that it continues to be productive.

My object in examining these improved plantations in the outset is to get information as to the different qualities of soil and their productions; and at the same time to get the views and the experience of disinterested parties, as to all matters that may assist me in making a judicious selection of territory for my friends.

At the saw-mill of Senor Bonifacio, near his residence, was seen the wood of the Cabriuve, which is a very hard, brown material, used in constructing machinery, or for building purposes. The Tariba is a yellow and very durable substance, used for posts, which are set in the earth. The Sucupina is very bitter to the taste, and is also of a yellow hue. It is likewise very durable when partially embedded in the ground. The Goncalo Aldes is of a most beautifully-variegated, dark brown and yellow color. It is very hard and finely grained, so as to admit of the highest polish; and is employed for the frames of pictures or other decorative work by cabinet makers.

The different qualities of wood enumerated in the last paragraph have been used in connection with the magnificent dwelling of our host, which has just been completed in the most elaborate style.

A team of fourteen oxen was seen here, attached to a strong high-wheeled cart, beneath which a huge log was suspended at one end and dragged upon the other end in the manner adopted in the States. These carts have the wheels fixed firmly upon the ends of the axles, so that all revolve together, and this plan is generally observed in all the vehicles for the use of oxen even when there are four wheels. The junction of the axle with the other portions of the wagon or cart is not usually lubricated so as to prevent the creaking noise from friction in the revolution of the wheels, and consequently progressing is attended with a sound that may be heard at the distance usually of half a mile, or even farther, in some instances. This harsh and shrill sound is thought to have a very important effect upon the performance of the oxen that have become accustomed to it, and unless it is heard they manifest an unwillingness to go forward with the load. Hence it is that these carts are rarely greased, and the drivers consider the music as a necessary accompaniment to their carts.

At one time the municipal authorities of the city of São Paulo decreed that those carts which entered the capital should be so lubricated as to obviate this noise, declaring that it was a nuisance to the city. But the consequence was that the carts did not come in to bring the wood for fuel or to perform any other service, the owners insisting that the oxen would not work without this old familiar sound, and the edict was repealed.

Immediately in front of the residence, and not more than one hundred yards distant, is the machinery of the saw-mill, grist-mill, and coffee-mill, all moved by water-power, brought by a race from a dam some four or five hundred yards off.

Upon this stream there are seven distinct falls, and this has fixed the name of the place, and of its proprietor, as “Settequéda,” the Portuguese word for seven falls. This gentleman is known far and near by this name, and it is the ordinary title given him by his friends in social intercourse.

As the apparatus here embodies all the most recent improvements for treating the coffee, it will be described with some minuteness. It is what is styled a “despolpidor,” and receives the coffee directly from the tree, without any preliminary process of drying, and even while the berries are yet red, previous to their becoming black. This saves much trouble which attends other processes, and enables the coffee-grower to gather his crops earlier than when it is required to dry upon the tree, or to be dried after gathering, prior to cleaning.

The coffee brought directly from the trees is placed first in a receptacle built with brick and cement, containing water; which not only washes the berries, but floats them forward with a current that runs from this tank by a small trough to another receiver, which constitutes the despolpidor.

In this there is a revolving cylinder of brass or copper, which has the surface roughened like a blacksmith’s rasp; and as the coffee passes into the cavity where this revolves, it comes in contact with this rough exterior surface, and the outside hull of the berry is detached, and the investing membrane of each separate grain is more or less torn, but not entirely separated. This being accomplished, the hulls drop out at a waste-way, and the grains are carried below with the water into a large reservoir. Here there are arms or sweeps of wood revolving upon a central shaft, and constantly stirring and agitating the coffee in the water, as it passes with the current to the most dependent portion. There it is subjected to a percolating process of washing by the passage of the water through it, and out below through a perforated plate. From this it is dipped up by a system of cups or buckets, such as is used for elevating flour in our bolting apparatus, and is deposited in a large cemented reservoir, from which any remaining water is drained off through perforations in the bottom. The coffee is now taken out to be subjected to the drying process for the first and only time.

The yard for drying the coffee, called “tereiro,” is a neatly paved, level space, with a number of divisions for receiving the coffee in the different stages of drying. This being laid with glazed tile, and entirely free from dust or other impurity, that can affect the clean grains of coffee, the drying is accomplished in the most satisfactory manner.

As a portion of the investment of each grain remains attached to it after it is completely dry, the process of fanning has still to be resorted to; and in this unique establishment two fans are connected, so as to receive the coffee one from the other; and the last so arranged with a sieve of graduated openings, that the large, fine grains of coffee are separated from the smaller and imperfect grains. All being now entirely clean and assorted, it is ready for sacking.

The house in which this entire machinery is arranged is not exceeding twenty-five feet square; and though there are three different elevations, in which different stages of the work are conducted, yet but one floor is required in the building. This compact and nicely-adjusted apparatus does great credit to the energy and enterprise of the proprietor; and though he has received many suggestions from other establishments, there is, perhaps, no single coffee-mill in Brazil that combines so much efficiency and economy of labor in treating this great staple. I would therefore urge those who may be entering upon this business to make a visit to Settequéda, even should it be two hundred miles distant, so as to get the details of this establishment.

The coffee treated in this way has a value in the market of from five to ten per cent. above that cleaned by the ordinary process; and when a fine article is desired for family use, it will command in Brazil a higher price than any of the coffee shipped to the United States ever brings in that market. I am informed here, that none of the finest specimens of coffee are shipped from Brazil to the United States, as the merchants will not pay the prices at which they sell in Rio de Janeiro. But these fine lots of coffee find a market in England, and consequently all the best coffee takes that channel of trade. We are accustomed, in the United States, to think that it is mere talk as to the superiority of the living in England; yet, undoubtedly, their progress in manufactures and arts is not without a proportionate advancement in what pertains to comfort in their households, and to gratification of taste at their tables.

Friday, October 6, 1865.

We took our leave of Settequéda this morning, and the gentlemanly proprietor rode with us to an adjoining fazenda belonging to his sister.

Here we had an exemplification of another process for hulling the coffee, and next in importance to that we have described as being effected by the despolpidor. It consists in the use of the mortar and pestle, after the manner adopted in the rice mills of South Carolina.

A number of mortars being excavated from a solid trunk of wood, and thus placed side by side in a row, constitutes the first element. Next, pestles for each mortar are arranged, with upright pieces of timber, having an aperture of about two and a half feet long, and two inches in width; and these are set in a frame so as to preserve a perpendicular position. The final appliance is a shaft, with arms extending so as to catch in these apertures at each revolution, and raising the pestle a certain distance, the arm slips again from the aperture, and the pestle falls into the mortar, thus by its weight pounding the coffee. These arms are so arranged that a portion of the pestles are elevated at each arc of the circle of revolution; so the work is continuous, under the operation of the water-power by which the machinery is put in motion. By this process the hull is very effectually broken and detached from the grain, but then the use of a ventilator is requisite to separate the grains and larger portions of the hull, and the sieve is required with the blowing of the operation, while the coffee is thrown up in the air time after time, to clean out all foreign matter.

In coming out from the examination of the working of the coffee we were regaled with some very fine oranges, which were the more prized because almost out of season in this region. There were also some fine specimens of the Mamão, a fruit which has its name from the supposed resemblance to the female breast. It grows upon the tree in clusters near the trunk, or, in a different species, upon long pendulous branches extending out some distance from the body of the tree. It is nearly as large as a small cantelope, and resembles in color and taste the mushmelon.

As we were leaving this place Dom Vaz, of Campinas, was met at the gate, and introduced to us by Senor Bonifacio. He was coming, as we supposed, upon a professional visit, and was mounted upon a very fine mule, which is the most usual and most efficient means of transportation in this country. I was impressed with his intelligent and sprightly appearance, with a characteristic energy and activity in his manner, though perhaps fifty years of age. I learned he formerly resided in Rio de Janeiro, but not having good health there he removed to the city of Campinas, and has, in a few years, secured a large and profitable business in his profession as a physician.

On our way back to our quarters we overtook Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa Aranha, to whom a letter was delivered from Senor Dom Bernardo Gaveão. It was read, and then he extended his hand, expressing his satisfaction at making my acquaintance. His physiognomy is the most demure, and his manner the least demonstrative, of any gentleman that I have yet seen.

He was the last President of the House of Deputies of the Provincial Assembly, and there may be a great deal in this grave exterior, proving that deep water runs smooth. Upon reaching his house, he offered us whatever we might choose from his enumerated assortment of drinks. Mr. Bennaton indicated ale, and this, with porter, was produced upon a waiter by a negro. I was now particularly struck with an illustration of the sentiment, that “Actions speak louder than words,” on the part of our host; who, instead of ordering a cork-screw, made a twisting motion of the hand, and a look in the direction from which he expected it to be brought. This was understood, and the article brought accordingly to open the bottles.

Some other gentlemen of a more lively cast rode up soon after our arrival, and, dismounting, left their mules, with the bridles thrown down upon the ground. This seems to be a signal for the animal to stand until some one comes to take charge of it, and all well-trained mules seem to understand this; but occasionally, as in this party, one walks off to look after what he may be able to gather from the yard or the crib.

Upon the entrance of this party there was no formal introduction to us, and yet bows were exchanged, and one of them approached and shook hands with me. I should have construed the previous demeanor of Senor Egydio, in connection with his failure to present me to his friends, as indicative of a want of proper respect; but his manner with them was much the same as previously, and I am informed by Mr. Bennaton that introductions under such circumstances are not customary in this country. The persons meeting in this way are expected to find out each other as best they may; and, with this view, it is usual to set about a system of interrogation as to the name, business, distinction, &c., of one another. I am not favorably impressed with this style of doing business, and must think that a due regard for the courtesies of life require that introductions should be given when strangers meet in this way.

We made but a brief visit, and left without any special demonstration of interest in our movements by this demure provincial deputy. That he intended to be polite, I have no reason to doubt; but if I had to encounter such a demeanor from all persons to whom letters are borne, the most natural inference would be, that my mission was not entirely acceptable.

After returning to Tapera, where our baggage had been left, we proceeded to pack up our trunks, so as to let the camarada start this afternoon with the pack-mules, and thus keep in advance of us.

In looking around the yard here, I observed a large number of hogs, and, for the most part, in good order, but most of them being molested with the small bicho that penetrates the skin wherever there is least hair. This little insect is black, like a flea, but enters the skin like a chigre, and is very prone to get into the feet of persons who are even for a few minutes without shoes, and make a sore place if not extracted.

In the afternoon, we took a walk into the coffee field, and though the most of the crop had been gathered, there were a number of trees having their full supply of berries. Upon counting some of the best-filled limbs, I found a single straight twig to contain about seventy-five berries or one hundred and fifty grains, and three pounds to the tree is an average yield.

Saturday, October 7, 1865.

Our pack-mules having gone on yesterday afternoon, we rode out this morning from the fazenda of Senor Queiroz, known as Tapera, and proceeded to Campinas, where we expected to call upon Dr. Reinhardt; but he was absent on a visit to Sorocaba. This gentleman came originally from the United States, with others, under a commission to make a botanical exploration of the country, and, after closing his engagement with the government, he concluded to remain in the country, and is very much esteemed by all who know him.

This city, like other interior towns, has but little to attract the favorable notice of one who has been accustomed to the display of architectural taste in the cities of the United States. Yet there are a number of neatly-constructed houses, and those more recently built manifest an improvement in style which seems to augur better for the future.

The elaborate work of carving which has been executed in the recently erected Catholic church exceeds any specimen of native art which has been seen in Brazil. The most extensive decorations of the interior of the building, and the most artistic figures upon eight different altars on either side of the long and lofty hall, prepare us for the grand and rich ornaments which encircle the great altar at the end of the church. The great length of the building, and the lofty elevation of the unsupported arch overhead, are, of themselves, remarkable features of this region, and would commend this structure to our attention, if there was nothing to attract within.

But the specimens of exquisite carving in native wood of the country present the most elegant and delicate workmanship that the world can produce. It seems as if the genius of some other land had been transformed to this city to give a fancy sketch which might seem to elevate the taste of the people. All the work is not yet completed, and there were several artisans engaged in carving out figures from the rough pieces of wood. But there seems to be no general movement towards finishing the work, and the general aspect of the exterior of the building is that of a ruin, rather than the progressive improvement of a growing structure.[^[12]]

The common people in all these interior towns look as if they had little to do, and less to think about, and it evidently afforded considerable curiosity to men and women as we passed through the city.

Most of the better class of women confine themselves closely to their houses, or, if seen upon the street, have their heads covered with the hood of a cloak which envelops their persons. But a more numerous class of females err on the other extreme; and with bare heads and bare arms, their natural developments are open to all observers. There is a style adopted very generally by this class, of having only the chemise on the body, and a skirt about the waist, thus bringing parts into view which modesty prompts most females to conceal with great care.

This free and easy apparel is also adopted by the female servants that are seen about the inns or hospedarias for the accommodation of travellers; and while it may do for a negro woman employed at washing or other duties, I am surprised that the white women, who have any self-respect, should appear in public, thus loosely attired about their breasts.

It is not uncommon on the route we came through the country, to see the Portuguese and negroes accompanying the troops of pack-mules without a shirt. Though they are provided with this garment, it is thrown across the mule upon which the man is mounted, or tied around his waist, and thus the sun comes in direct contact with the skin. This kind of exposure cannot be comfortable, and it cannot be necessary for the free use of the arms when no labor is performed, yet they seem to have a partiality for stripping to the buff in this way. Common decency in the United States would forbid this sort of public denuding of the person, but here it is a part of the programme of this kind of life, and is not noticed by those accustomed to the habits of the country, so far as respects this class of people.

On the contrary of the view here given, it will be found that the Brazilian gentleman is quite as circumspect in regard to his person as respects exposure and cleanliness as the most fastidious taste would exact.

The lands lying along the road after leaving the immediate vicinity of Campinas were not found under such fine cultivation, and we saw again signs of the copina, which throws up its mounds of earth in almost every abandoned field of this country.

We stopped about noon at one of the roadside inns and got our horses fed, while we waited leisurely for dinner to be prepared for us. Resting until 4 o’clock P. M., the voyage was resumed, and riding twelve miles, we stopped for the night at the hospedaria of Ponte Atibaia. Here we had condiments with our supper and fared well in all respects.[^[13]]

Sunday, October 8, 1865.

All hands were around this morning at half-past four o’clock, to prepare for the road, and coffee was ordered while we dressed. Each of the party seemed to have put on his best outfit in view of the day, and the fact that Ybicaba was our destination. Even our camarada had put on a neat white shirt and boots, whereas he had heretofore been barefooted, as is the custom with this class of men on most occasions.

It presents quite an odd spectacle to see one of these fellows mounted upon a mule with bare feet, and a huge pair of spurs strapped about his ankles. His stirrups are purposely small, so as to receive but two or three toes, and when they have rode a great deal, quite a space is formed between the toes, by the constant pressure of the stirrup. My inference in regard to thus having the stirrups so small is, to prevent the possibility of the entire foot being caught in the stirrups in case a man is thrown from his mule, as it certainly cannot be for comfort or convenience, either in mounting or riding with the bare feet.

The negro servants here much more frequently wear shoes than the Portuguese camaradas or troupeiros, and the boy Joaquim who accompanies Mr. Bennaton is well-dressed, and keeps himself neat and clean at all times. He is out this morning with white pants and his hair combed and braided in the most approved darkey style. He is beginning to understand my little phrases of the Portuguese language, and seems disposed to render me any assistance or service required.

When we set out this morning, shortly after five o’clock, it was not yet clear daylight, and the atmosphere was quite cool, rendering our overcoats indispensable for comfort. Indeed they have been used every morning until 9 o’clock, but after that hour it becomes warm, and from 12 o’clock until 3 o’clock in the afternoon the sun is oppressively hot. The heat here, however, is not greater than is experienced in the United States during the summer months, and the temperature of this climate at night is invariably more pleasant than in the Southern States.

All well know that the winter in the United States is during those months which constitute the summer of Brazil; and vice versa, so that, now, while it is becoming colder north of the equator, the heat is increasing in this southern latitude.

Thus far, less inconvenience has been experienced from the heat than was anticipated, and but for the protracted drought, which has parched the earth, and retarded vegetation of every kind in this section, the atmosphere would now be more agreeable during the middle of the day.

It is no part of my plan to eulogize the climate, or any other feature of this country, except as the facts may warrant a favorable estimate. Having an opportunity to judge of the nature of the climate in the latter part of winter and spring, with the forthcoming summer, I may determine with some certainty what will be its effects upon people from our latitude, by my personal experience.

The range of the thermometer as yet has not exceeded 85° Fahrenheit; and the sensible influence of the sun is not greater than I have experienced at a corresponding season in South Carolina and Georgia.

Most of the region of country through which we passed to-day consisted of plateau land rather sparsely timbered with large trees, and some of it resembled the low lands a short distance from the banks of our rivers. This was overgrown with shrubbery and bamboo cane, and having a growth of small trees interspersed with large timber. The general aspect of the surface was that of an undulating plain, but occasionally we encountered a ravine of considerable depth, making the descent and ascent rather difficult for our animals, and almost impracticable for carts or wagons.

The supply of water was more deficient upon our route to-day than upon any part of the road travelled heretofore; and however desirable land might be here, the difficulty of procuring an adequate supply of water, either for drinking or for machinery, would be a serious objection.

Twelve miles from our starting point we entered the town of Lemeire, which has sprung up within a few years to a respectable size. Some of the houses presented a very good appearance, but the usually dull aspect of these mud-built houses gives a monotony to all these interior towns which may excuse any detailed notice.

Since leaving the mountain range, this side of Jundiahi, the nature of the soil and the general configuration of the surface has undergone a gradual change, with a better adaptation to agricultural purposes. The dark reddish or brown color of the earth, which predominates in this region, is considered to be of volcanic origin in some former period of the world, and called “terra rocha.” It is found to be especially well adapted to the culture of coffee, and likewise well adapted to the growth of corn and beans, while the experiment made thus far with the cotton plant promises also an abundant yield. There is, however, a somewhat sandy level soil in parts, interspersed with these dark red lands, which present to my view very favorable indications for the culture of cotton, and the experience of planters will soon develop whether the former or the latter can be cultivated to best advantage in this crop.

At 9 o’clock A. M. we arrived at the magnificent fazenda of Commendador José Vergueiro, known as Ybicaba. He gave me a hearty welcome in the English language, and told me any thing and every thing in his house was to be used as my own while it might suit me to remain with him. In extenuation of his imperfect use of the English tongue, he said that he had told Mr. Bennaton in Portuguese, of his desire to accommodate me, and he wished me to make known through him any thing I might want.

I was very much pleased to find here, also, Senor Henry Whitaker, who speaks English well, and my sojourn here is likely to be relieved of much of the embarrassment of intercourse with others. The lady of Commendador Vergueiro does not speak English, but seems very kindly disposed, and very dignified in her manner.

We reached here just in time to join the family at breakfast, and after a ride of eighteen miles I enjoyed the tender and fat beefsteak, with nice wheat bread and coffee, in connection with the other supplies of the table. There was such a variety of articles for breakfast, and every thing in such excellent order, that it could not have been much improved by notice of our coming. After concluding breakfast, Mr. Whitaker, Mr. Bennaton and myself, indulged a walk round the garden, where quite a variety of fruit trees were seen growing in the greatest perfection. The orange, the pine apple, and also the peach, were among the number. A specimen of the genuine tea-plant was also seen here, but there was only a few plants, and no attempt to cultivate it for use of the family or for market.

Between 3 and 4 o’clock P. M. dinner was announced, and we had a most sumptuous feast of good things. The absence of fowl of any kind was again noticed, and turkeys, ducks and chickens are evidently not so much prized here as with us. Big hominy, of the whitest and nicest form, is used here with boiled milk as a dessert; and though very different from our mode of using the article, it is very good in this way. I told Mr. Bennaton that it would be more relished if fried, or eaten with gravy, as a part of the substantials of the meal. But he said it would surprise the people in this country very much to see the canjeen, as it is here called, eaten in that mode; and I therefore conform to the custom of the land, and take it as dessert with milk or syrup.

In the afternoon we walked out to the colony of Germans, French and Portuguese, located upon this place. I counted one hundred and sixty-four tenements for families, and learned that there were thirty-six others occupied, making two hundred families. They are here engaged to gather the coffee from the fields, at fixed rates for each bushel, and have a house with a small parcel of land, upon which to grow a little corn or other articles for themselves. They live in the most saving manner, with a view to accumulate enough to buy a place and live upon it, and the interior of their houses seemed to have a scanty outfit.

Monday, October 9, 1865.

Before leaving my room this morning I asked the servant for water to take a general bath, saying, “Fraga me agua, para lavor,” to which his reply was an interrogation, “Quente ou frio?” (warm or cold,) and I said, “Quero frio,” (I wish cold.)

Thus my acquisitions in the language are beginning to avail me, and I trust in a short time to be able to make known all my ordinary wants.

We set out before breakfast to make a survey of the extensive establishment for treating the coffee, which is run by steam-power.

The first step is to remove the outer hull of the berries, and for this purpose he employs four dispolpadores, such as described at Settequéda, each being capable of hulling five hundred bushels of the crude berries in a day, making two thousand in a day when all are fully employed. Not having a supply of water sufficient to move the machinery, or to float the coffee into the apparatus, it has to be washed before going into the dispolpadores if it should be dirty, and it may then be put in while wet. After the hull is removed, the coffee grains having still their separate investment, are dried in the ample tile-covered yard that is adjoining the building. The cleaning process is conducted by two large fans, and if any of the smaller grains slip through the sieve of the fan without being entirely cleaned, they are submitted to hand sieves. Thus, all the coffee is prepared for sacking. The specimens seen in the building were entirely free from dust or any foreign matter, and the proprietor states will command from two to five cents per pound more than the rolled or pounded coffee.

The store-room contains an immense amount of uncleaned coffee, and the crop made on this place this year is reckoned at fifty thousand arrobas, or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of clean coffee. This is below the annual average crop, and Senor Vergueiro thinks the blooming trees indicate a larger yield for the next crop.

This coffee milling establishment is upon a much larger scale than that of Settequéda, but there are a number of conveniences and improvements in the latter, which the want of water does not admit here.

There is a saw-mill adjoining the coffee-mill, which is run by a separate engine of four horse-power, and performs very satisfactorily with a perpendicular saw.

In addition to these there is a cotton-gin, and packing apparatus under the same roof.

An American cotton-gin of seventy saws is run by the same engine, of eight horse-power, which works the coffee machinery. The compress or packing apparatus is a pattern which has been in use for some years in the United States, but is made upon a small scale to pack bales of ninety-six pounds for transportation upon pack-mules.

The gin and compress were brought from Santos upon wagons drawn by oxen.

The ordinary hemp bagging is used here for covering the cotton, and the sepo vine, which grows in this country abundantly, makes an admirable substitute for roping. It is very unyielding, and being smooth, with a facility for knotting, it fulfils all the indications completely and economically.

The hull of the coffee, and the cotton seed, with the refuse from the saw-mill, have constituted the fuel for the steam-engine, thus wasting the cotton seed that might be made very profitable, either by converting them into oil, or for manure. Upon bringing these matters to the attention of Senor Vergueiro, he expressed his intention to cease this destructive policy; and until he may be able to procure an apparatus for the manufacture of the cotton seed oil, he proposes to accumulate his seed, when it will be convenient to pour water upon them, if it should not rain sufficient to wet them, and thus rot them for manure.

A blacksmith shop and a woodshop are in very successful operation, making his own wagons, and machinery for all the purposes of his extensive establishment; and all of good quality.

A large and well-arranged brickyard is brought into requisition for the manufacture of brick, tiles, and earthen pipes, that are demanded about the place; and his fazenda being within itself a village, the consumption of these articles is very considerable throughout the year.

The negro quarters are adjoining the residence of the family, and enclose a large court, in the centre of which is a belfry, and a lock-up for such as become unruly. There is a hospital department, with an office, where medicine is dispensed by the physician when his visits are required.

The stables are large and well-arranged for feeding, and the stalls are substantially floored with sawed plank, while there is an upper story for hay.

A spacious and neat fowl-house has recently been constructed, connected with an open grass lot, having a supply of water for the poultry.

The old coffee-mill and saw-mill, moved by water-power, are still preserved in good running order on the place.

After dinner to-day we were supplied with fine saddle horses, and accompanied Senor Vergueiro over his wide domain of a million coffee trees and fine cotton lands. We rode rapidly over miles of winding roads through the fields of coffee, stopping here and there to examine some feature of special interest, either in the mode of management or the development of the trees. Some had been growing there for twenty-six years that still presented a vigorous appearance and afforded a good yield of coffee this season. Others that were thirty-four years old have been cut off eighteen inches above the ground, two years since, and have again put forth branches, which present all the aspects of thriving trees. They have borne a crop of coffee this season, and the blooms afford a fine prospect for another year. This is a very interesting feature in the management of the old trunks of the coffee, as the advantages of a new growth are secured in one-half the time it could be attained from a new plant. Even should the root require to be dug around and manured, it would be far preferable to the uncertainty connected with the growth of a new plant; and in lands of good quality it certainly presents great advantages.

The stumps of the cotton stalk were also seen during our ride, which had recently been cut off for the purpose of securing the growth of another crop. There is a perennial growth of the cotton plant in this latitude, from the absence of frost; and by simply cutting away the limbs in the early spring another development ensues, which produces a larger yield than the first crop; and it is supposed that it may be cut off again at the end of the second year, and produce for the third time a full crop of cotton.

Thus the risks attending the sprouting and the early growth of the plant are avoided here; and as the evidence is conclusive that the yield of the second year is superior to that of the first, the advantages for the culture of cotton in this country gives it a preference to the southern part of the United States. The additional element of slave labor here is likely to afford results that cannot be secured by hired labor in the Southern States; and so soon as the negroes have become acquainted with the proper mode of working the cotton, we may anticipate yields of this staple exceeding any that have ever been realized in the United States.

The production of cotton here already is stated to reach two thousand pounds of seed cotton to the acre; and if this is a uniform yield of good land with good culture it is a decided success. There is not so much labor bestowed upon the plant here as in the Southern States, and the hoe is the only implement employed in the culture of this, or any thing else. It will appear marvellous to our heroic cotton planters that no preparatory ploughing is done, and that not even a hoe is used in planting the seed. The process, as I observed it here, consists in a negro scratching a place in the ground with his hand, and making three or four holes with the end of a stick, into which seeds of cotton are dropped and covered with the hand. This is done at distances of two and a half feet, and sticks of wood or pieces of cane are stuck into the ground to mark the place, and by this means to preserve right lines for the rows. Note this, ye planters of cotton in the Southern States, and think how painstaking you are to develop the growth of cotton in its several stages; yet here, in Brazil, it grows and matures well without culture of any kind. If cotton can be relied upon here to yield an average crop without labor, what may be expected from proper preparation of the soil for receiving the seed, and thorough working of the ground during the early growth of the plant.

Finding that the root of the cotton remained in the ground during the winter without injury, Senor Vergueiro supposed an advantage might be gained by planting the cotton seed during the winter, so that it might sprout up and commence growing in the earliest portion of the spring. He planted accordingly a considerable piece of ground in the month of May, which is in this latitude very nearly as November in the State of Louisiana. The prospect is quite unfavorable from present appearance of the plants, and he expects to replant the land, with the exception of a small space, to test fully the experiment. Had he known how much depends upon the disappearance of all frost, and the warming of the earth under the genial suns of the spring, as a preliminary to cotton planting, in the land where experience is the guide to success, this experiment would not have been necessary to convince him that nothing could be gained by the planting of the seed in the cold season, though there might be no frost to kill the plant.

Senor Vergueiro deserves great credit, however, for the boldness and energy with which he has urged forward his improvements, and others are now profiting by his enterprise in the domain of agriculture and the arts.

He produces all the corn requisite to raise hogs for his consumption, and also for a large number of horses and mules, keeping a pack of the latter to assist in transporting his coffee to market. He cures a considerable amount of hay for the use of his animals in winter, when the grass does not grow so abundantly; and I have heard of no other person in the country who gives any attention to haymaking.

Thus we find this fazendeiro combines all the various interests that conduce to the comfort of his family and the welfare of the large number of colonists and slaves who are dependent upon him for supplies. His extensive fazenda is emphatically a self-sustaining establishment, and he lives within himself to a very large extent. He grows his own beef and mutton, as well as his hogs, and his table is always supplied with the best that is found anywhere in the country.

Of course, there are many things which must come from other parts, and he avails himself of all the importations that may render a household comfortable, or a table desirable. Though hams are not cured here, the finest was found upon his table; and though flour comes from abroad, the choice varieties of flour bread, as well as other kinds, showed the domestic management of the estimable senhora most satisfactorily.

Tuesday, October 10, 1865.

We took our leave this morning of our kind friends at Ybicaba, and with a guide furnished by Senor José Vergueiro, we set out for the fazenda of Senor Rafael Paes de Barros, son of the Baron of Rerecicoba.

Our route lay through a region having a very large growth of timber, and we saw trees of eight feet in diameter, which gives twenty-four feet around the base of the trunk. The soil in this vicinity is of a dark red or purple color, and of a loose loamy consistence. It is the richest land of this country, and produces to great advantage all the crops usually planted here; yet some planters think this rich purple soil, that is known here as “terra rocha,” is not so well adapted to the culture of cotton as the land which has an admixture of sand.

We reached São Antonio, the residence of Senor Barros, about 12 o’clock, and he met us in the front yard with an open expression of hospitality, which made me feel that his words of welcome were not a mere empty sound.

After showing us his cotton house, where he had a large quantity of cotton in the seed, he took us to his recently-constructed gin-house, where the machinery is moved by water-power. He has a thirty-saw gin of American manufacture, and a small screw of his own make, which will meet his present wants; but so soon as his large force is employed in growing cotton, the appliances for preparing it for market must be greatly increased.

His experiment in the culture of cotton has been entirely satisfactory, and he considers the crop of great importance with the present high price in Rio.

The article grown here is of better quality than most of the cotton grown in the Southern States, and the fibre is not only longer and finer, but it is evidently stronger than our cotton. Some small specimens of the sea island cotton have been seen, which grew in this region of country, and they presented a beautiful silky-looking fibre; yet the size of the bolls, and the general yield of the stalks, does not afford encouragement to grow it rather than the other qualities of cotton.

Upon this fazenda there are four hundred thousand coffee trees, of which two hundred and eighty thousand are bearing fruit, and the others are young trees recently planted out.

Being invited to remain for dinner, we enjoyed a most abundant supply of the substantials, as well as the delicacies of the table.

Senhora manifested her respect by meeting us with a bow before going to her seat at the table, and though she made but few remarks during the dinner, this was simply in accordance with the recognized rôle of females in society here. A lady in Brazil is kept secluded to a great extent, and is rarely seen in a parlor with gentlemen, except they may be intimate friends of the family. When seen at the table, she is usually seated by her husband, or if he is at the end of the table her position is adjacent to the corner upon his right or left hand, and guests are seated on the opposite side.

In the case of young ladies the restrictions are still greater, and with the existing regime, I don’t understand how gentlemen become sufficiently intimate with young ladies to form a basis of marriage. Yet matrimonial alliances are here formed very early, and perhaps in part influenced by the desire of the parent to transfer the guardianship of his daughter to other hands, so that he may be relieved of the sense of responsibility. I am told that it is not uncommon for girls to be married as early as they reach the age of thirteen or fourteen years. The physical development of females in this climate is much in advance of those in colder latitudes, and they become mothers in Brazil before females in the United States are considered marriageable. Not only is their vigor of frame thus impaired, but the cultivation of their minds is in like manner arrested by the cares which must necessarily devolve upon them, and really it seems that the evil of secluding females from the freedom of society brings with it a host of other evils. If the cause be corrected, the effects will be remedied as a natural consequence.

Senor Barras very kindly proposed to furnish me letters to parties who might aid me in the prosecution of my objects, and with the assurance of his cordial good wishes we proceeded on our line of travel in the afternoon.

After a pleasant ride of three miles across the country, in which the Rio Claro was crossed, we reached the town known by the name of São João de Rio Claro. It is constructed chiefly with one-story houses, after the style of other interior towns through which we passed, yet there is more of neatness in their appearance, and in the order of the streets, than has been noted elsewhere.

We called, with a letter of introduction, upon Tenente Coronel Senor José Estaninlaus D’Oliveiro, the commandant of the national guard for this district.

He has recently proposed to give one hundred dollars to every citizen of his district who would volunteer for the active service of the war.

When my mission was explained to him, he signified his readiness to aid me, and said his house was open for me or any of my friends whenever it might suit us to stop with him. He gave us an invitation to spend the night at his house, but my object being to see as much of the country as possible, I thanked him for his kind offer, and departed with his best wishes.

In proceeding from Rio Claro we encountered the first open plains I had seen, and with a poor sandy soil; there was scarcely grass sufficient to sustain the cattle that were here and there scattered over these campo lands.

For several miles the monotony was only broken by a few huge ant-hills, that seemed to be the result of some considerable excavation of the earth, and the inquiry was naturally suggested whether the people had been digging for gold or making a well for water.

This striking contrast of barren plains, in close proximity to the richest forest lands, is a very remarkable characteristic of this section.

After passing a large area of this waste land, we reached another fazenda of Senor José Vergueiro, called Angelica, where he awaited our arrival, and repeated the kindly reception which had been extended to us at Ybicaba. This place is ten miles from Rio Claro, and consists of twenty-six thousand acres of land. Much of this large domain is campo land, of little value; and yet there is an immense body of very valuable land, a part being under cultivation in coffee, sugar-cane, cotton, corn, rice, beans, &c., while there is yet a large portion of original forest that is favorably located and of good quality.

The buildings on this place are of huge proportions, and the machinery adapted to all the practical operations of the various departments of industry. Water-power is used for a saw-mill, a grist-mill and a coffee-mill, while oxen are employed in running a wooden mill for the sugar-cane.

The facilities here for conducting the various kinds of business are not equal to those at Ybicaba, yet the basis is here for indefinite additions and improvements in the appliances, and the energy of the proprietor is likely to render all its resources available for efficient operation.

This place was formerly the family residence of the father and mother of Senor Vergueiro, and the name, Angelica, is that of his mother.

His father was a man of considerable note, and was for a time regent of the empire during the minority of the present Emperor. He has been dead several years, and this property is held jointly by the heirs, but under the control of the gentleman above-named, who expects to make it the counterpart of Ybicaba.

Upon this place there is a mill-race, four miles long, but even then the water reaches only midway the immense wheel, making it a breast-wheel, however, of immense power, by the large column of water.

All the negroes came into the house to salute their master, with the customary placing of hands together, and saying “Santa Christ,”[^[14]] which is an abbreviation for “Louvado seja nosso senhor Jesus Christ,” that is said by almost every negro in meeting a white person.

Wednesday, October 11, 1865.

Having enjoyed a comfortable bed for the night, we had a cup of coffee upon rising this morning, and afterwards joined Senor Vergueiro in making an examination of a very substantial and neat residence of sandstone, which has been recently erected on this place. The sandstone is procured from a quarry located upon the lands of the fazenda, and when dressed makes a very excellent wall. The general plan of the house was made by Senor Vergueiro, but the services of an engineer named Shelb have been called into requisition for the embellishments, and the result is very creditable to both. Although the building is not large, it has the lower story arranged for machinery, with a large water-wheel on the side of the house, but so covered as not to attract the attention of one taking an outside view of the building. This structure is an ornament to the place, and indicates progress in the architectural designs of the country.

We were shown here a plan of the lands belonging to this fazenda, which had been executed by the above-named engineer. It displays all the different kinds of soil, with the distinction of growth upon each; the campo lands having a very scanty and scrubby growth, the matto virgem being covered with the large original forest trees, and the capoeira with small trees that have sprung up on land which was formerly under cultivation. It is a large colored map, evidently made with great care, after a regular survey of the premises, made by contract with the proprietor.

After breakfast we rode out to take an extended view of the lands under cultivation, and the woodlands that lay convenient for observation. On the way, we passed the houses occupied by the colonists employed on this place, and I counted twenty-four double houses, making forty-eight tenements, for the separate families. Each family has a piece of ground attached to the house, or located at a convenient distance, so that corn and vegetables may be grown for their own use.

The contract with the proprietor only requires their services in gathering coffee from the trees, and for this labor they are paid what is considered to be one-half the value of the crude berries that are gathered. The estimate placed upon an alqueric—corresponding to our bushel—of the crude coffee berries, is seventy-five cents; and unless the crop is good, ordinary hands do not gather more than two bushels per day. Yet when the trees are very full, and the person is industrious and skilful, from five to eight bushels may be gathered in one day.

The lands planted in coffee at this place are not of the best quality, and yet the crop seems to have been fair, judging from those trees which have not yet been gathered.

The corn and beans being but little above the ground, no estimate can be formed as to what the crop may be; and the same in regard to rice which has been planted. But the general impression received from riding through the plantation was not particularly favorable to its fertility, nor does the ground lie favorably for cultivation.

We rode through a large body of woodland, which gave indications of a fair quality of soil, and lay very advantageously for cultivation. Yet it is not of that purple aspect which characterizes the best soil; and I do not see upon this place any of the terra rocha which abounds at Ybicaba. I was led to infer that this was perhaps the most favorable view which could be taken of the premises, as my proposition to traverse the territory in another direction, in the afternoon, did not meet the acquiescence of Senor Vergueiro, and yet he proposes to sell a part or the whole of this extensive tract of land. He does not make known his terms, and I don’t think that any portion of the vast area of this fazenda fulfils the conditions for a desirable settlement.

Captain Carvalho, an old gentleman of sixty-five years of age, is the administrator at Angelica; and seems to be treated with much respect by the proprietor. He is regarded as the best authority respecting persons or places within twenty miles of this fazenda, and has rendered us important service in these respects. His wife is a young, hale, buxom woman, who looks as if she might welcome another husband at the demise of this frail old man. She did not take a seat at the table with us, nor did she make her appearance often in the room. The women of this medium class of people have not usually presented themselves when we have visited their houses, nor are they ever seen at the table during meals.

I wrote a long communication from this place for the information of my friends, which was sent to my wife, along with a private letter to her.

Thursday, October 12, 1865.

Having secured a guide for the various parts of the country which we expected to visit, we left Angelica this morning, and came a distance of twelve miles to the fazenda of Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo. A letter from him was given to his administrator, Senor Antonio, who seemed at the outset to be at a loss what disposition to make of us and our rather large retinue. Ere long, however, we got into the house, and our baggage being brought in, he gave directions for the care of the stock. We soon found, also, that arrangements were in a state of progress for giving us dinner, which proved to be a good substantial meal.

In the afternoon he conducted us to a portion of woodland, also to a field planted recently with coffee trees, and having a crop of corn and beans interspersed with it.

I was surprised to find this soil very superior to that about the location of the building, and was impressed with the importance of making a thorough investigation of the adjacent territory. We went in a southeasterly direction to the foot of the serra, through a virgin forest of three miles in extent, and most of the growth indicated fruitfulness of the soil. At this point, the land under cultivation presented a good appearance, and the old corn-stalks showed a good result for the past year. There was also between this and the woods some open pasture, which had a fine crop of grass, and we suggested that our animals be sent here to graze, while we should be furnished from the fazenda for to-morrow’s ride.

Friday, October 13, 1865.

Mounted upon the plantation-mules, we rode at an early hour with Senor Antonio to visit the plantation, which runs along the foot of the serra, in an easterly direction from the site of the houses. The coffee trees were the chief objects of interest, and presented the aspect of vigorous development. Most of them had been stripped entirely or partially, and no correct opinion could be formed as to their yield from the statements of the man in charge.

A small piece of land had been planted last year in cotton, and the stalks, which had been cut off preparatory to another crop, indicated only a moderate development. There was a considerable extent of ground open for pasture that lay favorably for cultivation, and from the size of the old, deadened trees still standing upon it, the prospect would be good for a yield of cotton.

Within a half-mile from the foot of the serra, for more than a mile in length, the soil was of a reddish aspect, with a considerable proportion of sand, and as it receded beyond this distance from the serra, the increase of sand was such as to render the soil unproductive.

In all directions around the houses of this fazenda a barren campo extends to a considerable distance, and the land is not even suitable for pasture, as the grass which grows upon it is not eaten by the horses or cows to any extent, nor does it prove nutritious.

After returning from this visit to the coffee field, we were joined by Major Manuel Reginaldo de Morars Salles, who breakfasted with us, and then showed us another extensive portion of the lands. Taking the main road towards the southeast, upon which we started yesterday evening, we continued upon it, as the boundary of the land, for two miles.

Though the trees growing along this line, for more than a mile from the point of divergence yesterday evening, were large and numerous, yet the sand predominated in an increasing ratio, rendering the soil of little value. We then travelled for three miles through a barren campo, constituting the border of the tract, when a virgin forest was entered, through which we rode about half a mile into the better quality of land near the serra. Here the land was productive, but was very irregular, and liable to wash under cultivation, as there was more or less sand mixed with it. We did not find here, as at the northern portion of the serra, that dark red soil which always has more solidity than the sandy soil, and, hence, less liability to wash away by the rains.

From this point we emerged, on a different line from that by which we entered, and soon encountered a sterile region following round the border of the tract for a mile, through a complete waste of sandy campo land.

We at length came to a considerable stream, upon which there is an advantageous site for machinery, and were the better quality of lands near this point, the facility for securing this fine water-power would constitute quite a recommendation to the place. But the desirable lands are all at some miles distance, and a very bad route for the construction of roads from them to this point. We encountered at a house here a grove of delicious oranges, upon which we all feasted to our utmost capacity.

Reviewing the impressions of yesterday evening and to-day, I would conjecture that this body of land extends about six miles in length from northwest to southeast, and that its average width from the serra was two and a half miles, making nine thousand and six hundred acres of land. Of this, I would consider one-third as utterly worthless, and another third as only suited for pasturage, while the remaining three thousand and two hundred acres is good land, and lies advantageously for cultivation.

The administrator stated that there were seventy thousand (70,000) coffee trees bearing fruit, and twenty thousand (20,000) trees which have been planted at different times within the past two years, while there are ten thousand (10,000) plants recently set out. Of course, the value of the property is increased by the growth of these coffee trees, as every tree bearing fruit makes an annual income, and the estimated value of each plant when it commences to yield is twenty cents.

The territory over which we have passed has many small streams of water convenient to the different sections of the land, and the water was clear and pleasant to drink.

The land under cultivation lies in two separate localities, and yet both near the serra. The most elevated grounds in this country seem to be the most fertile, having, in the best localities, a dark red loamy soil; while the level lands, either in low flats or in plateaus, are composed largely of sand, and have little adaptation to agricultural purposes. The chief growth upon the campos are a harsh grass and a wild fern, with here and there a few scrubby trees of small size.[^[15]]

Saturday, October 14, 1865.

We arose at daylight this morning and getting a cup of coffee rode five miles through campo lands, to the Rio Roque, (River Rock.) At the point visited another small stream, with a five-mile site, runs into this river; and should any one locate near this place it would be available for machinery requiring but little water-power.

Senor Antonio Rodriguez Foone, the administrator, who was specially charged with the duty of showing us these lands, referred to an old woman living in a house near by, and was told by her that the lands beyond the Rio Roque belonged to the property; and as he supposed the property extended up the western side, we preferred to explore this without crossing the river. We rode up for nearly a mile, and found that the nature of the soil and the configuration of the surface were very well adapted for cultivation. The timber upon it is large, and much of it having a long, straight trunk, which would adapt it admirably for building. The soil near the road is of that dark red loamy order which is considered the most productive in the country. This taken in connection with the more elevated woodlands lying on the opposite side of the stream, would form a good settlement for several families, and the general aspects are favorable for health.

After returning from this visit we passed through a body of land lying in a southwest course from the buildings, and about one mile distant. It lies very favorably, and is evidently superior to most of the lands on this place. The soil is that dark red loam which constitutes terra rocha, and the timber is much the same as that of the land described upon the Roque. If there is any considerable extent of these lands they would form an offset to the larger proportion of worthless land belonging to this fazenda. On this point, as on others connected with dimensions, our guide could give me no information, so that I am left to the broad domain of surmise.

In forming an approximate estimate of the lands traversed this morning, I am without any other criterion than the probabilities based upon what I saw and what Senor Antonio supposed to be the outline of the fazenda.

The figures used in my calculation for the other portion of the land will correspond very well to my ideas of the extent of territory here, and we may say it is six miles long by two and a half miles wide, making nine thousand six hundred acres. The land previously spoken of lies westward and northward from the houses, and making a line from the southern end of the serra across by the buildings to the boundary, leaves all the land south and east to be included in the observation of this morning.

This entire area does not perhaps contain over two thousand acres of productive land,[^[16]] and the rest is of a quality that cannot be made available for any practical object, save it might be for a glass factory, from the immense beds of sand accumulated on this barren waste.

We left Morro Grande, the fazenda of Senor João, and went twenty miles northwest to the house of Captain Feliciana.

Sunday, October 15, 1865.

Having enjoyed the plain and substantial hospitality of our old friend the Capitão, as men who are hungry and tired always do, we saw no reason for detention during the day, and set out at an early hour, accompanied by our host, to the fazenda of Senor Dom Francisco Antonio de Sonza Queiroz.

A dignified and yet courteous reception was soon followed by the assignment to very comfortable quarters, and the furnishing of a most excellent breakfast.

His own wife, and the wife of Senor Dom Francisco Aguiar de Barros, graced the table with their presence; and the style of every thing indicated the refinement and elegance of the families. The gentlemen were so situated at the table as to separate their wives from the guests, which seems to be one of the relics of the olden times that clings to the people of the best class.

These two gentlemen own lands adjoining each other, and both having recently opened up their fazendas, Dom Barros has not yet got his buildings arranged for his residence; and his wife being a sister of Dom Queiroz the families are living together.

Every thing about the establishment is conducted with much neatness and good taste; and the dinner table, with its rich service of silver and variety of dishes, had an air of completeness that would do credit to any society. Our tea-table, also, was a type of the best order of things; and, though the ladies left before the retiring of the gentlemen, it must have been a great relief to get away when not partaking in the conversation. With this class of people tea is not served until half-past eight o’clock; and after the table is cleared the party sit around and chat until the hour of retiring for the night. When a social group are thrown with one another at tea, this is doubtless very pleasant; but not understanding much that was said on the part of others, and disliking to call upon Mr. Bennaton to interpret commonplace remarks either from myself or others, I found this tarrying around the tea-table quite a patience-trying ordeal.

I observe here, as elsewhere, that there is a long, slim pole erected in the front yard, with an emblem of some saint on a piece of cloth in a frame, attached to the top of the pole. They are called saint-poles, and the figure is changed in commemoration of each particular saint’s day.

At every house that has been passed or visited, without distinction of the class of people, where Roman Catholics reside, this emblem of their faith is to be seen. Though the figures are usually of the most uncouth aspect and clumsy execution, it is supposed that holy associations cling around them, and they are retained even when tattered and defaced by the elements.

In connection with this it is particularly becoming to refer to the habit among the negroes, which has attracted my attention at several of the fazendas, and which was observed here this evening. After the forming of all in a line, for the purpose of counting them at night, they repaired to the rear apartment of the building, occupied by the family, and all kneeling down they rehearsed a religious service, in which they were lead by one of their number. After this all retired to their respective lodgings for the night.

I observed that a similar proceeding was conducted in the yard where the negroes were mustered or formed into line, at the fazenda of Senor João Robiero de Santos Carmargo, and it is doubtless a part of the routine whenever any considerable number of negroes are collected.

Were it really a service of the heart, and not a mere outward ceremony, there would be an appropriateness and impressive solemnity in thus looking to God for his blessing at the close of the day’s labor.

But while a few of the number may have some sense of reverence for God associated with this daily observance, it is evident that the greater part join in it as a mere matter of routine.

The mustering and counting of the negroes at night is usually done in front of the residence of the owner, and he thus has the assurance that all are present. I learn that the habit of running away is not uncommon here, and at some places the sound of the shackles has been heard when the negroes were assembled, though nothing of the kind was brought to my attention in this establishment.

In some instances the shackles are put on their ankles only at night to keep them in their quarters, while in others they are kept on while at work as a matter of punishment, and I saw at one fazenda a very old woman with shackles on her ankles while she was employed in stirring the coffee that was drying. She had been guilty of poisoning other negroes, and was regarded as a very dangerous person to go at large.

My observation of slavery in this country leads me to the conclusion that the exactions from the negro are greater, and the provision for his subsistence and comfort less than was experienced formerly in the United States.

Monday, October 16, 1865.

After a pleasant rest for the night, we were regaled this morning before rising with a most excellent cup of coffee, which, it will be observed, is a part of the hospitality in every well-regulated household.

In due course of time our breakfast came, and, along with other articles, we enjoyed “Café corn leite” and excellent corn bread, made of fine meal.

This “Café corn leite” is prepared by boiling the milk with the coffee, and is so great an improvement upon the simple mixture of milk or cream with coffee that it ought to be resorted to generally by our people who are fond of this combination for breakfast.

Being supplied with horses by our host, we rode out with him to see his newly-opened plantation, called Fazenda Nova, passing in our route the site he has selected for building upon, whenever time is allowed for erecting a family residence. His brickyard and saw-mill are in successful operation, and the latter is a well-arranged perpendicular saw, that performs admirably, even in the hard material of the timber in all this country.

I have as yet seen no instance of a circular saw in operation here, and it certainly would be better adapted to the compact and hard wood which has to be encountered in sawing.

The coffee trees on this place have all been set out within the past two years, and some of them have been planted very recently. In all there are one hundred and forty thousand, and the number is still to be extended.

The lands under cultivation are, for the most part, elevated, and of the dark red terra rocha, being of very superior quality for the coffee.

We visited also the newly-opened fazenda[^[17]] of Senor Dom Barros, and I there had the opportunity of witnessing the burning of a “roça,” or new ground, of twelve acres, upon which the timber had been simply felled and partially dried. The land being scraped around to prevent extension of the fire, all the negroes were posted at regular intervals to guard the progress of the conflagration, and the fallen timber was then fired in various places.

It was an interesting sight, as illustrating the custom of all the planters in Brazil for preparing their lands to receive the seed for the first time; and, with the heat of a boiling sun, in addition to the heat of the fire, I found that “distance lends enchantment to the view.”

In riding through the sun to-day I was more affected by its heat than at any time previously, and though it may look something like adopting the doctrine of “Similia similibus curantur,” I resorted to the use of strong coffee, with decidedly good result. At the new structure of Senor Barros we found excellent coffee prepared for us, and with a sense of depression from my exposure to the hot sun, I drank two cups of the ordinary size in the United States, which relieved me greatly; and, upon going out again, I did not experience so much inconvenience from the heat, though the sun was beaming down its rays with even greater intensity than before. This stimulant evidently lessened the influence of the sun.

The thermometer stands to-night at 80° Fahrenheit, and was doubtless 90° at two o’clock P. M., as it is very sensibly cooler since the sun disappeared, while a pleasant breeze always fans the earth at night.

Some valuable information was received from Dom Queiroz to-day, in regard to the employment by contract, of men having negroes under their control, from the province of Minas. These negroes have been heretofore employed upon coffee estates which have ceased to be profitable in that section, and the owners are sending them to this comparatively new region, under responsible overseers, to contract with the landowners for their labor. They go into the virgin forest, clear it up after the style of the country, and plant young coffee trees furnished by the landowner, which are to be cared for, and the intervening space of land cultivated on their own account during four years; at the end of which time, the field is turned over to the owner, with the coffee trees yielding fruit.

In consideration of this service, the landowner pays to the contractor twenty cents for each coffee tree which is growing and ready to yield; and if any cash is advanced to him prior to the end of the fourth year, he gives guarantees for the fulfilment of his stipulation, and pays twelve per cent. per annum interest upon the money thus received. The contractor supplies himself with tools, and his hands with provisions, or other articles needed, so that the landowner is not responsible in any way for them.

During the first two years, the contractor may plant whatever crop he chooses between the rows of the coffee trees, but the owner has the right to dictate what shall be planted in the subsequent two years; and as the growth of the plants may be impaired by the presence of high corn or other things calculated to shade them, these may be forbidden.

Should the coffee commence yielding before the expiration of the four years, the contractor obligates himself to gather the crop, and turn over one-half of it to the owner of the land.

The advantage to the contractor consists in having the use of land for four years, in consideration of clearing it, and the twenty cents per tree is very full pay for the labor and attention bestowed upon the coffee plants.

On the other hand, the owner, having a large amount of land without sufficient force to do all this heavy work, gets his land put in good order for cultivation, and has the coffee trees upon it bearing fruit. Considering that four hundred and sixteen (416) trees grow upon one acre of ground, his improved land costs him eighty-three dollars ($83) per acre; and the question arises, could not day-laborers have been employed throughout this period for the same outlay of money, who would have given the owner the annual return from the cultivation of the lands, in addition to the final growth of the coffee trees?

I learn that one man can clear and plant in the course of a year ten acres of land, and the same man can of course cultivate it in a crop of provisions during subsequent years. This man can be hired to work, and find himself, certainly at one dollar a day for the working days of the year, which may be put down at three hundred dollars, which for four years will be twelve hundred dollars.

For this amount, I have had my annual provisions from the land, and my coffee trees are now ready to yield me an annual crop. If this sum now is reduced by subtracting the value of the crop for each of the three last years, at the rate of thirty dollars per acre for each year, making nine hundred dollars, it leaves but three hundred dollars of outlay for my coffee trees; or thirty dollars per acre, instead of the eighty-three dollars per acre paid out by the system of contract.

In this point of view, it is evident that our friend Dom Queiroz and others who make this arrangement with the negro contractors are paying very exorbitant rates of hire. I have purposely placed the rate of day-labor far above the rate usually paid in this country; and it is not usual to pay a caipira or Portuguese more than five dollars a month, and furnish him lodging and provisions, which in cash outlay will not exceed one-half of the sum specified in my calculations.

It behooves our people to consider all these things in making their arrangements, and not fall into any plan of operations because others are doing it.

In estimating the increased value of lands, with a full stand of coffee trees bearing fruit, the calculation may with more propriety be based upon the estimate of twenty cents per tree, because you receive an immediate return for the investment, of from three to six pounds of coffee per tree, annually, which will be worth, free of all expense, twenty cents the first year for each tree, and thus repay the entire outlay.

One of the incidents of travel in this country has been encountered to-night, by finding a bicho or chigre embedded in one of my toes. A little darkey was called to identify the parasite; and a “tropeiro” extracted it, with the nidus complete, making a very nice operation.

Tuesday, October 17, 1865.

Leaving our pleasant associations at Nova Fazenda this morning, we came in company with Dom Queiroz and Captain Feliciana to the residence of Senor João Franco da Morars. He had a most sumptuous breakfast in readiness for us, which was enjoyed very much after our ride of six miles across the country.

Setting out after 10 o’clock, we rode over the land which this gentleman proposes to sell. The extensive tract of Babylonia is connected at one point with the land upon which he resides. The former consists of ten thousand and two hundred (10,200) acres, and the latter of three thousand (3,000) acres, making together thirteen thousand two hundred (13,200) acres of land.

The body of land known as Babylonia consists of the possessions of a number of persons, as follows:

João Franco da Morars, 3,540 acres; José da Lacerda Guimarans, 3,600 acres; Aranjo Lima, 420 acres; José Goncalves, 840 acres; José Estivão, 780 acres; Prudenta, 540 acres; José Ignacio, 252 acres; Bento Ribeiro, 252 acres; and the residence of João Franco da Morars, 3,000 acres.

Price of lands in Babylonia, $4.50 per acre.

Price of residence of Senor João, $5.00 per acre.

Between the last-named and the rest of the land there intervenes partially a portion of another fazenda, called Quilombo, which it is thought can be had upon similar terms as the above.

The stream Ribeirão dos Negros forms the boundary for a short distance upon the north of the first-named tract, and then penetrates the lands of Babylonia; supplying water convenient to other portions, and having several considerable falls which might be made available for any extent of machinery.

The surface of the land is irregular, and in some parts mountainous, inclining from either side towards the water, which traverses the entire extent of the lands. Upon the tract enumerated as that of José Goncalves there is an elevated plateau of perhaps one hundred acres which lies favorably, and has a stream of water running across it through an artificial channel. By means of this small stream a monjolo is worked at two different places; and the soil is of good quality, while the site for building is very advantageous. Upon a portion of this plateau, twenty thousand (20,000) coffee plants are growing from the seed, which are two years old and look thriving, but are still small. When the seed are planted in the places where the tree is to grow, it is thought to have some advantages; yet the almost universal custom is to transplant from a nursery the rundas or young sprouts when they have remained for one year, and thus the stand is perhaps rendered more certain and uniform.

If several families should combine in purchasing these lands, a hamlet or village might be formed upon the plateau spoken of, and each have sufficient ground in connection with their dwellings to raise vegetables and necessary supplies. Those employed as laborers could be located upon their respective tracts of land, and thus be separated from their dwellings. In this way children might have a common school, and many arrangements for the common benefit of the families could be made convenient to this site, while the water could be carried to any point it might be desired. The soil upon most of the hillsides is of good quality and free from frost, so as to be suitable for planting coffee.

Tobacco was seen growing upon this place, as a second crop from the stalks which had been previously cut off, and though the result did not appear favorable, it would repay the trouble of gathering. This region produces tobacco very satisfactorily; and the neighboring section of Belem (a contraction of Bethlehem) is regarded as particularly well suited for the culture of this plant. The mode of preparing the tobacco for market, here and elsewhere in the country, is to work it into a kind of rope, with the hands, that is, coiled round a piece of wood two and a half or three feet long, so that it may be conveniently shipped upon the pack-mules. It presents a very dark, oily aspect, as if some foreign ingredient were used in its preparation, and yet this is said to be simply the exudation of the juice, which results from the manipulation. This tobacco is strong, but not regarded as equal in quality to that manufactured in Virginia; and my friends who used tobacco attributed this inferiority to the want of proper treatment in this Brazilian twist.

In other provinces of Brazil, more northward, I am informed that the leaf-tobacco is packed in bales, and shipped largely to England and other places, for making segars, or for other processes of manufacture that enhance its value.

The soil and climate are said to be well adapted to the growth of tobacco in all parts of the country.

Wednesday, October 18, 1865.

We parted from our old friend Captain Feliciana, the courteous and kind Dom Queiroz, and our host, Senor Franco, at nine o’clock this morning.

Captain Feliciana is a plain, unassuming, genteel person, who has manifested his regard for us by going the entire round with us since leaving his own premises, and though over fifty-five years of age, he manifests considerable activity in exploring the country, and has really been of much service to us in communicating information of this region.

Dom Queiroz speak a little English, and relieved my embarrassment by the gentleness and urbanity of his bearing towards me during our sojourn at his house and our association subsequently. When I bade him good-bye, he said, in terms that required premeditation, with his limited use of English, “If I can be of any service to you at any time, call upon me. You will find me here, ready to serve you; and I am at your orders.”

Under other circumstances, this might have been viewed as a mere passing remark; but, having found him so unassuming in his hospitality previously, this kindness manifested at our parting was highly appreciated.

Our host, Senor Franco, has manifested the greatest generosity in supplying our wants, and also in providing for our animals and attendants.

He had a very interesting daughter, who had met us at the outset in the dining-room, and at each meal subsequently, causing us to take quite an interest in her dignified management during the indisposition of her mother. When we were ready to leave the house, Mr. Bennaton asked for her, and we shook hands with her, and gave her our best wishes at parting.

Senor Franco said that I would come with my friends to live amongst them, if I knew how much gratification it would afford the people of the country.

He kindly sent a negro man with us, to pilot the road, and we reached the residence of Senor Maj. Joaquim Roberto de Silveira at 4 o’clock P. M.; we got dinner promptly, but there being no corn on the place for our stock, he sent off to a neighbor, and after some hours procured only half a bushel, which affords but half a feed for night and morning.

He has recently settled this place, and has not yet made a crop of corn, which explains very satisfactorily his deficiency; but it was supposed that others in the neighborhood would have made a crop of corn, and could have responded to his call in a larger quantity than he procured. In asking him to procure the corn, Mr. Bennaton expected to pay for it, but he would receive nothing for it, and accommodated us, as all have done, in the true spirit of hospitality.

This section of country presents an admixture of campo and forest lands; the former being a light, sandy, barren waste; while the latter vary considerably in quality. Most of the woodland seen to-day was near the premises of our host, and though it looked as if cotton might be grown advantageously, there was a large element of sand, which predisposed it to wash, when there was much irregularity of surface. It had a dark gray aspect, and corresponded more to the character of soil seen in some parts of South Carolina than any land yet seen in Brazil, and may produce equally well.

Thursday, October 19, 1865.

After an early breakfast, we were supplied with a negro guide by Major Silveira, and travelling through a region that was almost entirely campo, we proceeded twelve miles to the residence of Senor Major José Maria Gavião, at São José.

In his absence, we were kindly received by his family; and upon his arrival, we had the strongest demonstration of his generous hospitality. He not only treated us with the best he had to eat and drink, but supplied us with fine horses to ride over his plantation.

He has only established himself here a few years, and yet his arrangements are very complete. He has a large tract of land lying remarkably well for cultivation, and very fair soil, though not of the best quality. It is free from frost, and thought to be well suited for coffee culture. He has one hundred and twenty thousand coffee plants of different ages already planted, and is ready to extend the number when he has rains to favor transplanting.

He has a good saw-mill, with perpendicular saw, which works very satisfactorily. He has also a grist-mill that makes beautiful corn-meal; and really it is refreshing to see the meal instead of farina, which is the substitute in most of the parts of the country for bread.

We availed ourselves of the fine bathing facilities at the mill to refresh our persons, and put on clean clothes. The Major sent down large towels for us, and provided likewise a bottle of Cognac, for us to take a little after concluding the bath, to prevent any bad effects of the cold water. Bathing in this climate is not only very grateful to our bodies but it is regarded essential to health and comfort.

I here had an opportunity of enjoying for the first time a feast of that delicious fruit, the jaboticaba. It is a large, dark purple fruit, resembling very much the appearance and taste of the finest specimens of muscodine, but the average size is somewhat larger than the largest muscodine, and the juice is even sweeter and more delicate than that of the muscodine. It is regarded entirely free from danger, when the juice alone is eaten, and many swallow the pulp also without experiencing any inconvenience. This fruit is an anomaly in its location upon the body of the trees, or upon the larger limbs, by a very short, delicate attachment, and is not found upon the twigs or ends of the branches as other fruits. The tree producing it is a tall, smooth, light-yellow colored forest growth; and in riding out to the woods, a negro ascended one of them and gathered a quantity of the fruit. It grows also when transplanted, and makes a beautiful shade-tree for a yard, while bearing the choicest fruit.

I ate at the house, likewise, the cassia, which is a fruit produced in the campos, and has a very pleasant acidulous taste, that is found very good when used as a lemonade with water. This fruit has the peculiarity of producing the seed at the lower end, exterior to the investment. Though found upon a small shrub in the campo, it is grown under cultivation upon a large tree, and of much larger size and finer flavor.

We were shown here a small hand-roller cotton-cleaner, which is the only reliance thus far for a gin. A small spinning jinney of the old pattern is also used; and the mortar and pestle are employed for beating big hominy.

Friday, October 20, 1865.

We rode out this morning before breakfast to the location of a small colony of Brazilians, employed by Major Gavião in cultivating his lands. Most of them own some slaves, and they are also employed upon the place. As the sole object in these arrangements seems to be for the coffee culture, the contract with the proprietor leaves them free to cultivate the intervening ground for themselves, and the consequence is, that their cribs are full of corn, while the proprietor has to buy his supply from the country around. They have hogs, also, in fine order, and every thing about their little settlement looks to be in a thriving state. In addition to this, the laborer is paid five cents per year for each coffee plant that he sets out and gets to growing, thus having a good cash income, independent of the supply of provisions. This principle works well for the contractor, but is certainly not favorable for the landowner, as he certainly should avail himself of some part, at least, of the productions of the land, during the period it is occupied by the contractor or colonist, as he is, in this instance.

I observed at the house of Major Gavião a negro man with an indolent ulcer of the hand, which he was treating with acid nitrate of mercury, in the absence of any physician. I thought this quite heroic domestic practice, yet it was evidently a proper application, and I indorsed his treatment.

The negroes here, as at other places, were observed to labor in ditching without their shirts; and though this strikes one strangely upon first seeing it, the negro evidently consults his own comfort, as the shirt is usually tied round the waist. So far as I have had an opportunity of examining the clothing of negroes, the men wear a substantial shirt and pants of coarse cotton, and it is rare that one has been seen with ragged clothes. The women usually wear lighter material, and it is not uncommon to see a female servant about a house with an old calico dress, which has doubtless been cast aside by the white women of the family.

I was particularly impressed here with the freedom which was allowed some negro children in coming into the room occupied by the family, and with the attention given them by the Major.

Having no children of his own, he seems to make pets of these little darkies. He has likewise a number of huge dogs, which are very fond of lying about the house, and he tolerates them at times, but at others makes a clearing out of every thing, and closes an open-work door, which serves as a barrier to their entrance.

After a late breakfast, the dashing Major accompanied us a short distance, and left us with a guide to show us the route to the fazenda of Senor Dom Rafael Aguiar Paes de Barros.

He and his fine-looking wife received us most courteously and treated us very kindly. Upon being informed that I wished to look at any lands in the neighborhood which might be for sale, the Dom supplied us with horses, and rode with us to see some lands near his place. The soil appeared to be of superior quality, and the surface was remarkably smooth and level for this country, but there is not such a supply of springs as would be desirable for the use of families, and the only stream available for machinery is of small capacity.

The lands are bounded upon one side by the Rio Jacaré, the margins of which are said to be very liable to chill and fever, and have not been cleared up for cultivation. There is not sufficient fall in any part of this stream adjacent to the land for establishing any kind of machinery.

There is, however, an immense salto or water-fall upon the river Chimbarro, which runs near one end of the territory, but belongs to another party, who manifests no wish to sell. This water-power might be used for machinery of any magnitude, and the location would be a good one for a cotton factory, to work up the crude material of the country, and sell the proceeds to the people within adjoining districts.

The following are the tracts of land in the market:

These lands lie in juxtaposition to each other, so that they would together form a fine large plantation, and one good settlement, or perhaps more could be secured. The average of the whole makes the price one dollar and twenty cents per acre, and I have seen no body of land presenting such favorable conditions for a fazenda, though not adapted to a number of small settlements.

This territory lies eight miles south of Araraquara, and a considerable proportion of the two last-named tracts have been at one time cleared and under cultivation. But it is evident that it was not materially impaired, and it is again covered with a growth of taquara (a species of cane) and small trees of various kinds, which would be much more readily cleared off than the original forest.

This land is said to have been planted seven years ago in corn and beans, for the purpose of fattening hogs to be driven to market; but this trade being no longer profitable, it was abandoned, and the land allowed to grow up as stated.

The altitude of this region renders it very pleasant for a residence, and yet its exemption from frost enables the coffee to be cultivated successfully.

Dom Barros has already a portion of land adjoining these lands planted in coffee, which looks to be thriving well, though not old enough to bear fruit. I saw upon his place corn-stalks, that indicated its adaptation to this important crop, and pumpkins of good size were also seen in the field amongst the corn. He cultivates the sugar-cane very successfully, and has a large mill, in which he is constantly working it, with a firm yield of sugar and rum. The molasses is very little made anywhere I have been, and yet when produced is of the very finest quality. It is not used as we use it, in connection with the substantials of a meal, but is confined to use with the dessert, and is a most delicious syrup.

If the water-power upon the Chimbarro can be secured, in connection with these lands, it then becomes a very desirable investment, and as Dom Barros brings the water for his machinery from this stream, through a race two miles long, it may be that a privilege could be had from the owner, though he may not sell the land.

After an excellent dinner, at which Senorha presided, much after the style of our southern ladies, we were supplied with a guide by Dom Barros, and came to the villa of Araraquara. Having a letter to Senor Manuel Francisco de Oliveira, we were kindly received and well provided for at his house. I was informed that a letter had been addressed to me by the municipal authorities of this place, inviting me to visit the district, and that the people throughout the country were very desirous that we should select a location amongst them. Several gentlemen called upon us, and among them the municipal Judge, to whom I had a letter of introduction—Senor Dom Andre Dias de Aguiar. This gentleman impressed me very favorably by his courteous manner and his intelligent expression of countenance, while he manifested quite an interest in the objects of my visit, and my personal gratification.

The villa of Araraquara is located upon a plateau, which affords ample scope for extension of the town; and there is a clear bold brook running on one side of it, which affords fine water for domestic purposes and for the use of all kinds of stock. The streets are laid off at right angles, with a church and an open space in front of it in the centre of the population. I observed that there was a jail opposite the church, and yet I was informed that it was not much in demand for criminals. The style of architecture is similar to the mud-built houses seen elsewhere, being nearly all of a single story, and consequently spread over a large area, when any considerable house-room is secured. The drinking water here is superior, and the climate very pleasant.

Saturday, October 21, 1865.

Senor Candido Mariano Barba, the government agent at this place, called upon us early this morning, and manifested a desire to aid me in any way it might be practicable.[^[18]]

It being arranged that we should go out to the fazenda of Senor Lenente Coronel Joaquim Lorenço Correa, several of the gentlemen of the villa rode out with us. Meeting the proprietor on the way, he joined us and conducted us to his extensive and well-arranged establishment, known as São Lorenço. On the way, we passed a beautiful cascade of several hundred feet in height, and then another near his place, which is also a fall of great elevation, but not containing so much water as the former. The lands adjacent to these water-falls are comparatively level, but drop down suddenly in a gorge, whose banks are precipitous for a considerable distance, as the stream descends. I observed this same thing on the premises of Dom Barros, and it is rather a striking peculiarity of the country.

The fazenda of Senor Joaquim is four miles from the villa, and passing in part through red campo land, the forest is entered within a mile of the residence, and the soil here is of superior quality. The best sugar-cane yet seen was observed on the roadside as we approached the residence, and I learned from the owner that it had been growing several years from the original roots. He finds that the cane produces here, satisfactorily, six years; and after that time it is customary to plant the ground anew.

This establishment belongs to the first class of the country, and the dwelling is located upon a gentle slope, with a paved terrace, elevated to correspond to the level of the house. The residence is very commodious, with a basement story, which adds greatly to convenience, and the general reception room is supplied with sofas and chairs, having cane seats, and of very neat workmanship. The usual plan of having the sleeping apartment opening into the parlor is found here also, and there is no ventilation excepting by this door. The outbuildings are well-arranged and of the most substantial construction, and the yard immediately around the house is inclosed with a fence, while outside of this there extends for half a mile on one side a most luxuriant grass-pasture.

At a short distance from the dwelling stands a grist-mill, saw-mill and sugar-mill, moved by water, which is brought in a race from an adjacent stream. The sugar-house is supplied with metallic cylinders to express the juice of the cane, and the quantity extracted gives a favorable idea of the richness of the growth of cane, while the syrup indicates by its taste a large proportion of saccharine matter. He has three large boilers of sheet copper placed in a furnace that is neat and substantial, while it works most efficiently. There are small troughs connecting these boilers with the large receiving-troughs, in which the syrup stands to crystallize, and the process of transforming the syrup is thus attended with little difficulty. After the sugar has formed, it is then placed in other receivers with perforations in the bottom, so that it drips and becomes dry.

The sugar is then submitted to a process of clarifying by covering it with a compost of clay and cow-dung, which seems to act favorably in rendering the superficial layers of sugar very fair, and indeed almost white. This is entirely new to me, and yet may have been resorted to in the sugarmaking regions of the United States without coming to my knowledge.

The drippings from the sugar are converted into rum, which is known here by the name of aqua-ardente, or cachaça, and this branch of the business is quite profitable, as a market is found in the country near at hand.

The sale, however, of most of the sugar made at this establishment, is readily effected in this and the adjoining districts, at the prices of Rio with addition of transportation; so that, though laboring under the apparent disadvantage of remoteness from any established market, there is really a very decided benefit in this location. He gets a higher price at his sugar-house than the manufacturers who ship to Rio or Santos can possibly get at those points, as his consumers must pay for the transportation on pack-mules, if they should go there to purchase. Moreover, I am strongly impressed with the conviction that the cane and the appliances used in this establishment, with the high-toned character of the proprietor, will furnish inducements to buyers that may not be found elsewhere. He produces annually for the market between eighty and ninety thousand pounds of sugar, for which he gets an average of seven and a half cents per pound. Let us make a calculation for eighty-five thousand pounds at seven and a half cents per pound, and it gives $6,375, from which deduct $1,375 for expenses, and we have five thousand dollars profit.

He employs only about fifteen hands, and raises besides all the corn, beans, and other provisions for his family, and also all the hogs which are required on his place. Every thing which can make life comfortable seems to be raised in the greatest abundance on this place, and he lives to a large extent within himself; but yet avails himself likewise of such importations as are requisite for success in working his fazenda, or for the comfort of his family. His family consists of seven daughters and five sons, and when one is married, or arrives at the age of twenty-one years, he gives this son or daughter three thousand dollars upon which to commence business. Four of his daughters are married, and two of his sons, while one of his sons being in the military service at the seat of war, leaves at home three daughters and two sons. The entire family excepting the older son at home, present a very robust and healthy aspect, and the constitutional stamina of the old gentleman and old lady are not surpassed in any country. The son at home, whose health suffered in the army, so that he was discharged from service, is now recovering his vigor, but has not the appearance of a good constitution like the rest of the family.

The party rode out in the afternoon to visit the coffee field (cafézar) of his son-in-law, Senor Francisco de Paula Coma e Silva. He has some twenty thousand trees of various ages, and those most advanced indicating good development, with a fair prospect for a yield. But he could give us no definite idea of the past crop.

We here regaled with oranges and bananas of the finest quality, and coffee was also handed at the house.

Sunday, October 22, 1865.

During the morning I was requested to prescribe for a little son of Senor Francisco, and as there was no medicine in the house suited to the case, we rode to the town to learn if iodine, iodide of potash, and syrup of sarsaparilla could be found at the apothecary shop.

All the articles fortunately were on hand, and the keeper of the shop promised to have the medicine ready to-morrow morning. After calling upon several parties in the villa, we were entertained with music on the accordeon by a dark-skinned gentleman, while a parrot was paraded upon the table and supposed to be marching in time to the music, of which, however, I could not have a full appreciation. As will be perceived, this was a Sunday exercise, and in the mean time our old friend, Senor Joaquim, went out to attend mass.

After returning to São Lorenço, the camarada was sent to the villa for our baggage, which had been left behind the day previous.

In the afternoon I was summoned by Mr. Bennaton to join a party who were going out, and found they were preparing for a hunt. I was offered a gun, and the gentlemen of the family were very much surprised at my refusal to accept it, as they had previously understood that I was fond of shooting. Though I declined the gun, the Sabbath was violated by accompanying the huntsmen on horseback. Several shots were fired by different members of the party, at a species of partridge nearly as large as a chicken, but no game was secured, and a shower of rain induced a precipitate return to the house. I told them it was a judgment sent upon us for violating the Sabbath, and resolved not to be again lead into such a departure from my sense of duty. Fortunately our baggage had arrived and afforded us dry clothes.

Shortly after our return, there arrived two visitors from the villa, who were also quite wet, and had to avail themselves of a supply of dry clothes from our host and his son. One of these gentlemen was Senor Dom Aguiar, Municipal Judge, and the other was Senor Lenente Coronal Antonio Carlos de Arruda Botilho, who owns a large fazenda some thirty miles distant, at which he resides.

Having friends and business relations with this place, this latter gentleman is frequently in the villa of Araraquara, and is held in good repute by those residing in the neighborhood. With these people a ride of thirty miles is a small matter, as they frequently set out at or before daylight, and make the distance upon a good mule before breakfasting. From the lateness of the hour at which these gentlemen came, I suppose they expected to remain for the night, and now since they have changed their own clothes for others belonging to the family, there is no alternative. The social relations among people in this country who are on a basis of equality seems to be accompanied with great freedom of intercourse, and liberty in their deportment about the dwellings of each other, while nothing like rudeness, or want of proper personal respect, has attracted my attention.

While it is my purpose to record as far as practicable every thing which may illustrate the industrial resources of Brazil, it also appears to be proper that I should give such incidents as may serve to give an idea of the manners and customs of the people, and this must be done in some cases by implicating myself in scenes that do not comport with my views of propriety, as to-day.

Monday, October 23, 1865.

A letter from the President of the province of São Paulo being received by Mr. Bennaton, from which he inferred that General W. W. W. Wood, of Mississippi, needed his assistance on the way to this point, he proposed to return for the purpose of meeting him. I declined to accompany him, and told him it would suit me better to remain in this vicinity, for the purpose of examining such places as might be conveniently visited during his absence.

My old friend, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, invited me to sojourn at his house, and kindly offered to aid me in looking around the country, or in any other matter that might be desired.

He authorized Mr. Bennaton to say to me that there is a very comfortable house upon an adjoining place to this, which he will cheerfully furnish for the use of my family, and that he will also supply them with provisions and all other necessaries for living, free of all cost, until some more satisfactory arrangement can be made for them, and invites me to bring them here should a purchase be made anywhere in this region.

I returned my most profound thanks for this generous offer, and felt truly that “a friend in need is a friend indeed.” As yet, however, I am unable to say whether circumstances will permit me to accept the proposition, though it is evidently tendered in good faith, and with the expectation that a location for my friends may be found in this vicinity. I rode out with my host to see the house and grounds offered for my family, and found every thing more inviting than most dwellings in this country, with abundant supply of water.

Mr. Bennaton having left, I find myself thrown upon my own resources in communicating with those around me, and though attended with much embarrassment and difficulty, it will serve greatly to advance my knowledge of the Portuguese language.

The apparent cheerfulness with which the old Colonel and other members of the family render me assistance is a great relief in my awkward efforts to use the few phrases I have learned. From time to time I have been studying the Portuguese grammar, but have the misfortune to be provided with a very badly-arranged and unsatisfactory edition that was given me by my friend, the Rev. A. L. Blackford, at São Paulo. It is by E. F. Granert, of Cleveland, Ohio, who resided for some years in Brazil, but certainly has not acquired the art of making a grammar to facilitate a knowledge of the language. I could have made considerable progress in learning the vocabulary on my voyage across the water, but regarding the pronunciation of prime consequence, in the first acquisition of words, I purposely deferred committing words or phrases to memory, until I could avail myself of the assistance of persons speaking the language, and thus get a correct pronunciation.

I am still impressed with the importance of this course, as none of the rules can enable the learner to get an accurate idea of the peculiarities of the spoken tongue.

A little son of Senor Joas de Almida Leite Morais, another son-in-law of my host, is at present suffering from an attack of cholera morbus at São Lorenço, and is under my treatment. A prescription has been written out, and sent to the apothecary at the villa, who filled it very satisfactorily, and all promises well.

Tuesday, October 24, 1865.

My little patient is entirely relieved by the treatment instituted on yesterday, and the entire household seem to be very much gratified at the result of prescription. As there are no physicians in this district, a few favorable cases would no doubt be a passport to the confidence of all who require medical aid. But I can’t entertain the thought of entering upon a country practice, however profitable it might prove. And if I locate in this region, it will be with a view to engage in agricultural operations. Should my friends from any cause abandon the thought of coming to Brazil, then I may locate in some city, and enter upon the practice of my profession.

I rode out with Colonel Joaquim to his field this morning, and got his ideas of the indications of good soil from the appearance of the earth, and the nature of the growth upon it. He places most confidence in the presence of the Pon d’Alho when it is very large, as it then indicates depth of soil, which nourishes the roots, and gives vigor to the tree. His lands are chiefly of the terra rocha order, and he agrees with others in considering this as best suited to coffee and sugar-cane, and also to the cultivation of corn. He thinks, however, that the yield of the cotton upon this rich land is not so favorable as upon a soil with some sand intermixed, which agrees with the views of others on this subject. His experience, however, in cultivating cotton, is limited to a small supply for home consumption, as his fixtures for treating the sugar render it better for him to continue in that business, and he could not find sale for cotton nearer than Santos. He uses the plough to prepare his land for planting the sugar-cane, and employs the tops of the sound and vigorous cane from which to grow his crop.

This seems to be the plan universally adopted here, instead of planting entire stalks, as is done in the lower parts of Georgia and Florida; and of course proves an item of great economy in planting a large area of ground in sugar-cane.

I observe, here, that rice is planted in upland, and without any regard to securing a moist place. The yield is fair, and the quality of the article very good, though not equal to Carolina rice. It is grown, to a greater or less extent, upon most of the fazendas I have visited, but simply for family consumption; while upon the coast, I am informed, there are large rice-plantations, that produce it for the market extensively.

In addition to other industrial enterprises, Senor Joaquim has a stock-farm in connection with the residence shown to me yesterday, and there has about twelve hundred head of cattle which are grown for the market, as well as to supply the wants of his own family. He has in that place a large tract of land, of which about ten thousand acres are in woodland, and twenty thousand acres in campo, furnishing ample range for his cattle. This has not been a matter of much concern with him, and the profits are considered as small in comparison to his other business. Yet, he thinks, with proper care, it might become valuable; and by combining the rearing of mules with that of cattle, it would make a very pretty department of industry for some of our Southerners who are fond of stock.

Wednesday, October 25, 1865.

My old friend gave me to understand this morning, that we would start in the afternoon to make a visit to one of his daughters, and thence to-morrow to examine some lands which had already been seen superficially in company with Dom Barros.

I had been guessing his meaning in most of the communications made to me, from the few words I could understand, but on this occasion there was no point caught in his first presentation of the matter, and upon asking him to repeat what he said, I managed to infer that it pertained to this trip, which had been contemplated. My very general reply, “Eston as suas ordeus,” (I am at your orders,) indicated my readiness to go whenever it suited him, and on asking him what time we should start, he indicated 2 o’clock P. M.

Accordingly his wife and three daughters joined us on horseback, and we rode eight miles to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Joaquim de Sampaio Peixoto. Here I met a cordial reception, and found plenty of oranges, with good cheer, and also comfortable quarters. I observed at this house a specimen of cattle with shorter and smaller horns than the stock usually seen in the country, and learned they were imported. The native cows do not make good milkers, being very large and coarse, and in common with the males having most enormous horns. They make good beef, and furnish large hides, but are not suited for the domestic purposes of a family. It is stated, indeed, that these immense oxen are not so serviceable as those of the smaller size which are found in some parts of the country.

The ladies mounted and dismounted their horses without assistance at starting and arriving.

Thursday, October 26, 1865.

All our party, accompanied by Senor Peixoto, set out immediately after breakfast upon horseback. While we stopped a few minutes to examine a new mill-dam on the way, we saw a small deer (viado) swimming down the stream, to make its escape from the dogs which had been pursuing it above.

Instead of taking to the bank, when it reached the dam, it plunged over the fall, and made its way down by running in the current, which was no longer deep enough to require it to swim. The dread of the pursuer kept it from going upon land, where it might be scented and followed.

The old Colonel went with the ladies directly to the residence of Dom Barros, while Senor Peixoto very kindly acted as guide for me in examining the lands. He took me through the most obscure paths, and to all desired parts of the territory included in the tracts of Lacerda, Rodrigues, and Roberto, lying near the Rio Jacaré.

My impressions of the quality of these lands were not materially changed by the inspection, but malarial indications were presented at several points on the Lacerda tract, apart from the fixed fact of the unwholesome atmosphere of the Jacaré river. The quantity of water suited for drinking purposes was found less than previously anticipated, and there is no stream upon either of the places suited for any kind of machinery. The prospect for a location upon these lands is therefore decidedly unfavorable, though the soil would yield good crops.

After dining with Dom Barros, our party rode back to São Lorenço, a distance of sixteen miles, without any apparent inconvenience to the ladies. The physical stamina of these women is equal to any thing.

Friday, October 27, 1865.

Having eaten a great variety of meats and fruits, with much exposure to the hot sun, I found myself suffering this morning with some derangement of the bowels, and asked my old friend if he had any brandy. As he had none, he gave me some port wine, but this did not relieve me; and he then gave me a mixture of aqua-ardente (rum) and polvilho (starch of the mandioca) with a little water and sugar. It was very strong with the rum and I took but one-half of the quantity provided. This acted favorably, and is doubtless well adapted to relieve the relaxation of the intestines resulting from improper diet in this climate.

The amount and quality of my food was changed for this day to suit my condition; and it seemed to be a source of much concern to the family that I did not partake of the many good things prepared for me. Indeed, each of the three meals was like a dinner in the variety of the articles, and it required the greatest circumspection to keep from eating too much.

I rode out to the fields again with the old Colonel, and thus had a little more latitude for practising my vocabulary of Portuguese; and after returning my time was devoted industriously to improving my facility in the use of the language. I read aloud some articles in the newspaper which had already been learned with the use of the dictionary, and some difficulties of construction were explained by the Colonel and his son-in-law. I have also resorted to reading in the Portuguese Testament, with the English at hand, so as to assist me in a proper translation, but this does not seem to improve me so much as the reading of the articles in the newspapers with my dictionary. The effort to understand the idiom is a good exercise.

Saturday, October 28, 1865.

Although I retired late last night, my sleep was disturbed by the deranged state of my system, and farther perhaps by the presence of a vagalume which had been secured under a glass in the room.

This singular lightning-bug is of the size of an ordinary beetle, and has two luminous spots of considerable brilliancy, corresponding to the position of the eyes. It imparts sufficient light to read when held near the printed page; and the time by a watch is told with great facility when it is held near the face.

The brother of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, Senor Francisco Correa de Arruda,[^[19]] spent the night with us, and impressed me very favorably as a man of substantial worth and good sense.

After breakfast I joined the old Colonel in a ride of six miles to the farm of Senor Joaquim Correa da Assumpsão, where the best cotton was seen growing that has been encountered in my tour. It had borne a crop last season amounting to 2453 pounds in the seed per acre, with a prospect of an increased yield this year after cutting off the stalks. The limbs have already sprouted out to some distance, and are spreading in such form as to make a good stalk; and the squares, blooms, and forming bolls indicate a most excellent result. This land has not been ploughed at any time, and would certainly be improved by cultivation with the plough.

While we were at the house of Senor Assumpsão, a messenger came to notify the old Colonel of the arrival of General Wood and party at the villa of Araraquara. We rode into the villa and found them in charge of some of the citizens. All took breakfast with Dom Andre Dias da Aguinar, and as it was nearly 12 o’clock, they evidently relished his abundant supplies after a ride of sixteen miles.

Upon asking General Wood to give me a memoranda of the names of those constituting his party, the following list was written and handed to me:

General William Wallace W. Wood, lawyer and editor, of Mississippi, representing seven States.

Dr. James H. Warne, surgeon and physician, from Tennessee.

Robert L. Brown, planter, Alabama.

Aids.—W. C. Kernan, of Florida, architect and builder; Dr. J. P. Wesson, Tennessee, dentist and machinist.

Government Aids.—Major Ernest Street, civil engineer, São Paulo; Henry Snell, interpreter, Campinas.

Three servants and two mule-tenders; four pack-mules.

Mr. Bennaton failed to meet the General’s party on the road, but returned and joined them at the villa this morning.

The entire cavalcade, accompanied by a number of gentlemen from the villa, repaired to São Lorenço, with the proprietor, and enjoyed a most bountiful and well prepared dinner at 4 o’clock P. M.

I had been introduced to General Wood in New Orleans early in the month of July, and understood from him then that he was delegated to come to Brazil as the representative of five hundred families in Mississippi, but as he was delayed in starting, it seemed to me best that my movements should not be retarded for the sake of his company, and I left the city for New York on the 12th of the month. As I sailed prior to his arrival, there was no further communication between us until our meeting here, and it is now found that his commission has been extended so as to include seven States.

One of his party, Mr. Kernan, brought a letter of introduction to me from Dr. R. P. Daniel, of Florida, in which he remarks: “I was myself, in connection with another gentleman from Florida, on my way to Brazil to locate a colony; circumstances have delayed us so much beyond the time we had proposed that, considering the difference in seasons and other matters, we have concluded to return home and wait until next spring before going on. I regret this delay very much; meantime, will you not let me hear from you at your convenience?”

In the multiplicity of my engagements, it may not be in my power to make such a communication to Dr. Daniel as would be desirable, and the publication of this record will give him and others who have desired information most of the facts in my possession connected with this country.

Sunday, October 29, 1865.

The large number of guests were all comfortably provided with bedding at São Lorenço, and rose this morning refreshed, and responded promptly to the call for breakfast, doing ample justice to the supplies.

It was intimated to me that Senor Francisco desired me to examine and prescribe for his wife, a daughter of our host; and Mr. Bennaton rode over with us and interpreted my questions and her answers, so that a full history of the case was received. It was a stomatitis of two months standing; and finding a Portuguese medical formulary at São Lorenço I was enabled to make out a regular recipe, which was sent to the druggist in the villa.

Shortly after our return a delegation arrived, representing the villa and county of Araraquara, who presented addresses in Portuguese to General Wood and myself. Our replies were, of course, written in English, but were rendered into Portuguese by Mr. Bennaton, and presented to the representatives, who were in attendance.

A translation of the address to me, and my answer, will be given here, in fulfilment of the request contained in their communication:

“Doctor Gaston:—It is not only the commission under which you are acting, and by the fulfilment of which Brazil, developing her immense resources, hopes to attain in a short time to that degree of importance which providence has designed, that causes the municipal common council of this village, interpreting faithfully the sentiments of their citizens, to come by the delegation which you have before you, and express the desire that you may find what you seek; and thus, that your worthy fellow-citizens—our brothers of the American Union—may adopt our country for their country. It is likewise the sentiment of sympathy, doctor, which your manners and education have induced on the part of all who have had intercourse with you.

“Remain then, doctor, amongst us, as also your friends, that you may succeed in obtaining lands, which will be suitable for your energetic farmers and mechanics; and rest assured that we will receive you as brothers receive brothers.

“In this form we ask you to make known to them the sentiments which animate us.

(Signed) “Manoel Francisco Oliveiro,

“Francisco Correa de Arruda,

“José Aranha da Amaral.

“Araraquara, October 29, 1865.”

“São Lorenço, October 29, 1865.

“Gentlemen:—Your address received to-day causes the most grateful emotions, which are enhanced by my separation from those included in your expressions of sympathy: and for them allow me to thank you cordially.

“The regard manifested for myself in this communication, and the personal kindness of your people toward me, cheers my heart, and I feel that I am surrounded by true friends in Araraquara.

“My visit to this country inaugurates a new era, which I trust may conduce to the mutual welfare and enjoyment of our people in after years, and promote likewise the best interests of Brazil.

“Should a suitable location be found for myself and my friends it will be sincerely gratifying to make our home amongst you. I am, very respectfully,

“Your obedient servant,

“J. McF. Gaston.

“To Messrs. Manoel Francisco de Oliveiro,

Francisco Correa de Arruda,

José Aranha da Amaral.”

It will be perceived that this ceremony was on Sunday, and though public business is generally suspended on the Sabbath as a holiday, there is nothing which these people may not do on Sunday so far as any religious scruples are concerned. That we must do in Rome as Rome does, is a bad maxim in morals or in politics; and yet there are certain relations to others in life, and to the circumstances by which we are surrounded, that are next to an impossibility to control. These considerations come to mind constantly here, and it is proper that they should enter into the calculations of our people who may think of removing to this country, as it will be found very difficult to act in such a way as to overcome the influences at work on all sides to subvert our views of duty as to the Sabbath. When a number of like faith and practice are associated together in one community, they may establish their own customs and observances; and the importance of locating together will not subserve this end only, but many other useful objects for our future welfare.

Monday, October 30, 1865.

General Wood and myself, with our party, accompanied by Colonel Joaquim Lorenço and his son-in-law, Senor Francisco, left São Lorenço this morning shortly after five o’clock A. M. Our object being the exploration of the fazendas of Lagrada, Cambuy and Monte Allegre, it was expected that we would be out several days, and provisions were accordingly made by the old Colonel for all our prospective wants during the tour.

We rode first through a portion of the tract of land known as Lagrada, containing thirty thousand acres of land, and belonging to our host, which he proposed to sell if it is desired. It consists of campo land in two-thirds of its extent, and the remaining third of forest land. Our route this morning was through the campo land, in which the soil was red, and having quite a variety of small trees and shrubs. Some of those bore fruits, while others were of a medicinal character. Among the latter were found the trees from which are procured quinine, manna and India rubber, with the plants of the jalap, columbo, ipecac, and several indigenous remedies for syphilitic diseases and the bites of venomous serpents. Indeed these plains contain quite a variety of fruits and medicinal agents, and it is evident that collections of the latter, having much value, might be made by one acquainted with their properties and general aspects.

We proceeded through a portion of the lands of Cambuy, which is said to contain twelve square leagues of territory, which makes one hundred and twenty-two thousand eight hundred and eighty acres of land. The proportion of campo is supposed to be two-thirds to one-third of woodland. Our route lay through a portion of the woodland, which is of the terra rocha order, and about two miles across, to the river Jacaré. Here we found a bridge had been undertaken, but was not completed, nor did the work seem to be progressing.

To the west of this, some half a mile, there empties the Rio da Fazendinha, which conveys sufficient water for motive power, and has a fall of great extent, less than a mile from its mouth. The Rio da Montada and the Rio João Velho are smaller streams, which empty into the Jacaré farther westward.

There is a serra running up and down the Jacaré, and nearly parallel with the general course of the stream, having the crest about two miles distant and sloping gradually on each side; upon that slope next the river chill and fever is said to be generated, while near the crest and upon the opposite slope it is stated to be exempt from all disease.

The lands upon this serra are said to be of the best quality, and if they correspond throughout to the soil seen near the road, there is every reason to anticipate a good result from their cultivation. Until some proper and reliable measurement is made of this fazenda, no idea can be formed of the extent of this body of woodland, yet it is certainly the most valuable territory of the entire tract. If it be two leagues long, and one league wide, as some estimate it to be, it would form a very valuable acquisition for agricultural operations.

In returning from the Jacaré we entered the woods and proceeded to the bank of the Rebeira Fazendinha, where we breakfasted upon passorca and oranges in true traveller’s style. As the components were simple, and yet readily intermixed so as to give them a peculiar fitness for travelling, the process should be understood. Boiled beef is cut up into mincemeat, and then mixed with the farina made of corn so intimately in a mortar that it becomes a coarse powder, and is called passorca. This, then, is eaten with a spoon, and, when combined with an orange, as in our repast, it is really most excellent. In the absence of oranges or a bottle of claret it is well to have water to drink while it is eaten.

In the mean time Senor Francisco shot a macucu and her young bird, which were regarded as a great acquisition to assist in making out our breakfast next morning. This bird of the forest is something larger than a chicken, and is pronounced one of the best for the table; but, in the present case, with young birds of the size of a partridge, the hen is not in the best eating order. A small cobra was also killed.

Our ride, after leaving these woods, was principally through campo lands, in some of which, large, high grass was seen, but, for the most part, the growth of grass was small and scattering. In one place I observed small cane had been growing and was burned off, so that a new crop was sprouting up over the ground. This would doubtless be good grazing while it is tender.

We saw several considerable droves of cattle that were in fair condition, and the calves generally presented a good appearance.

The woodland which was passed in the midst of the campo lands was very well timbered, and looked as if it might have strength of soil adapted to the production of cotton. The sand, however, predominated largely in most of it that was seen; and Senor Joaquim Lorenço told us this was a fair type of these lands located in other parts of the territory. With this information, it was not thought advisable to make a tour of fifteen or twenty miles to see a duplicate of that which we examined; and it was concluded that we would repair to the situ on the place for the night. We passed a fine stream of water some mile of two from the houses, and found a small water-course at the place, adapted to work a monjolo, and perhaps it would serve for a small grist-mill.

Upon arriving at the situ, we found that our camarada and cook had every thing in progress for dinner, and we were soon served with a good, warm, substantial repast, which seemed to be appreciated by all, after the long and tiresome day’s ride, through campos, in the sun.

After dining, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, at our request, sketched upon the ground the outline of this extensive collection of lands, and its relations to other adjoining places, giving a rough map of all the tracts of land convenient to the villa of Araraquara which it was supposed would be sold. Upon this, Mr. Street based a plan and sketched the outlines for a map, which he proposed to fill out in examining the surrounding country, and it is likely to be very useful.

Tuesday, October 31, 1865.

Getting an extra early breakfast, we set out this morning, and rode through a wide extent of rather indifferent land, diversified by hill and dale, as well as broad-extended plains. There were some portions of woodland, having a light soil, in which the sandy element prevailed to an extent that must render it of small value. But there were other portions of woodland, with a reddish-colored soil, which were evidently of a better quality. Yet none had the dark purple hue which characterizes the terra rocha soil, and which is regarded the best quality of land in this country.

In passing through the fazenda of Monte Allegre, immense undulating plains of red soil were traversed; and different views were entertained as to the practicability of cultivating these lands successfully with the plough. There is in many places almost no vegetation, and the dry, hard, red earth looks as if it scarcely had the requisite elements for the germination and sustentation of grass or plants of any kind. This may depend in part upon the long-protracted drought which has existed in all this region of country; yet it is an inexplicable circumstance that no planter attempts to raise a crop upon any portion of these campos, and their cultivation would certainly be attended with less labor than clearing up matto lands. An experiment with the plough should, however, be made, with a view to test their productiveness.

When we reached the situ of Senor José Pinto, in charge of this fazenda, every thing was found ready for our comfort, as he had been notified of our coming by Senor Joaquim Lorenço. Being in advance, with some others who did not speak Portuguese, it devolved upon me to use my small stock in communicating with the proprietor, and I am encouraged to find that my words are understood, while I comprehend much that is said by others in this tongue.

Dinner was served in accordance with the most approved style of the country, the courses being of great variety, and the plates being frequently changed. We were agreeably surprised with the excellent taste displayed in connection with the table, and it was no less a matter of admiration to find beds arranged for all our large party with the greatest elegance. The pillow-cases were decorated with fine lace, and some of the spreads were beautifully embroidered. It is an odd fancy with many families to have towels of very fine material trimmed with very broad lace, and this was exhibited here in the greatest profusion upon the towels for our use.

There is a water-course on each side of the houses, which, uniting below, form a considerable stream. This large creek has a fall upon it, which affords a very favorable site for machinery, and indeed each of the smaller streams is also adapted to supply good water-power, while one of them already has a cotton-gin and grist-mill in operation, but both on a small scale.

In an enclosure near the mill-house there are two large trees, called Ximbo, which we were told had been planted there some years ago; and this would seem to indicate that the land will grow other trees better than those usually seen in campos. These trees present a luxuriant, thriving aspect, and afford a very fine shade for stock, while they would be highly decorative and useful in the immediate vicinity of the dwelling. It is remarked, however, that shade trees are seldom seen here about a house, and the climate being very warm during most of the year, the benefit of the trees ought to be apparent to all.

Orange trees are growing in the garden attached to this house, and though not bearing at present, they are well developed and will doubtless yield abundantly in proper season. The oranges in all this region are said to be very fine, and in some places the trees are found still with some fruit, which is of the very best quality. It has been a matter of consideration with me, whether the growing of the orange for the purpose of making wine and brandy might not become profitable. That a good article of each can be produced has already been satisfactorily proved, and there is a modification of the wine, known by the name of Coracão, which is very much prized. This name implies that it is adapted to cheer the heart, and it is considered a great delicacy. I have tasted a specimen of the ordinary wine of the orange, and thought it corresponded very much to the Sherry wine, which is certainly one of the best wines that is imported to the United States.

A dog-kennel with seventeen deer-hounds was seen here, and these animals have sharp ears like the wolf, with greater activity and fleetness than our hounds.

Wednesday, November 1, 1865.

At five o’clock this morning three of the party and myself joined the proprietor in making a tour of observation in the plantation and neighboring woodlands of Monte Allegre. The soil was not of a superior quality, yet it would doubtless produce moderately well. Cotton had been planted last year, and seemed to have made an average stalk, while that more recently planted was growing quite as well as the want of cultivation would warrant. The large proportion of unproductive land upon this fazenda, and the medium quality of most of the woodland, do not present encouraging features for a settlement upon it. Yet the fine location, and the water facilities, have evidently inspired General Wood with the idea that it would afford a favorable location for a city of newcomers. It is thought, moreover, that in the event of the extension of a railroad to this region, it will pass in the immediate vicinity of this place. That the location is healthy is shown by the residence of a large family and quite a gang of negroes for many years at this site, with very slight sickness of any kind. But there are wanting, in my view, the most essential requisites for building a city, or for establishing a large number of our people, in the deficient basis for agricultural pursuits and the absence of means of transportation, while there is a very scanty supply of timber at any point convenient for use. We need many things in commencing a settlement for which we must depend upon the resources of the surrounding country, or upon transportation from other parts; and in case these supplies are not likely to be found near at hand, the means of ready communication with some furnishing point becomes essential.

We left Monte Allegre about 9 o’clock A. M., and came out through a different portion of the territory from that previously seen, but found no improvement in the nature of the soil. At one point we were informed that a field of coffee (cafézar) was near the road, but being of recent planting, it would have afforded very little idea of the fitness of the soil to its growth, and hence we did not visit it. The woodlands passed through to-day belonged to that class known as terra branca, having a large proportion of sand mixed with the soil, and might perhaps be appropriate for the cultivation of cotton for a few years.

After leaving the lands of Monte Allegre, I proceeded with Senor Joaquim Lorenço, and Mr. Snell as interpreter, to examine some of the woodland belonging to the tract known as Lageado. The growth upon it is of good size, and much of it very suitable for building purposes. There is a stream of water suited for domestic purposes running lengthwise throughout the body of woods, and there is a large water-course at one extremity, which is available for machinery. This land is of a gray aspect, having a considerable proportion of sand; yet Senor Joaquim thinks it will grow every thing to advantage excepting coffee and sugar-cane. He tells me also that there is a portion of red land (terra vermilho) which would grow those articles in common with others.

Thursday, November 2, 1865.

Accompanied by Senor Joaquim Lorenço, we moved at daylight from his fazenda en route for Brotas and Jahu, and without any incident of special moment, we stopped about noon at the fazenda of Senor Jacinto Antonio Fagandes, (deceased.) We were supplied with water, and also with milk and water mixed, which spoiled both these articles, and brought up associations that ought not to arise in connection with the hospitality of our friends. We were furnished with coffee also after waiting until our patience was exhausted, but it was thankfully received and enjoyed.

Here we saw the skin of an ant-eater, (Tamandoa Bandoera,) which is of a gray color, with the hair upon the back very harsh and long, and the tail of immense size, spreading out like a fan at the sides. This animal has powerful arms and front paws, with which it tears up the earth in search of the nests of the ant; and it is said to be very ferocious when encountered by other animals. An instance has been communicated, in which an ant-eater and a tiger became engaged, with the result of killing the former, yet the claws had been so imbedded in the flesh of the tiger that it remained clinging to it, until the sickening and emaciation of the tiger made it an easy prey to the hunter, when the dried body of the ant-eater was found still attached by its claws to the body of the tiger.

This is given as reported to me by a person who claimed to have a personal knowledge of the fact, and illustrates the tenacious grasp of this animal.

After leaving the dwelling, and its incumbent of milk and water memory, we passed through a portion of the land of this fazenda, which contains about eighteen thousand acres, and is now for sale. There is a branch or small creek with very clear water, which was crossed after entering one of the fields. The soil here was evidently well suited to the growth of corn, as there were large heaps lying in the husk on each side of the road, preparatory to being hauled and put into the crib or paijol. There were also a number of young coffee trees growing in this field, but we had no information as to their age, and it is sufficient to remark that they looked vigorous and healthy, with a good prospect for the future.

The party to whose estate this place belongs owned three large fazendas; and there is one located near Lemeira, which is said to be a valuable coffee plantation, giving a large annual yield.

The place passed this morning is called Carrentes, and is about two miles from the situ of Major Gaveão.

After leaving these lands, we passed through a most dreary sand-bed of nearly two leagues in extent, and crossing the Jacaré river at a water-fall, (Cachoeira,) we stopped for the night at the residence of Senor José Rodrigues Simães.

This is a very superior site for machinery, and yet the main stream is not made available, while a small stream entering into it is turned into a race through a large hollow log, and moves quite a large sugar-mill and a monjolo.

A trough was measured here with dimensions of forty by forty-five inches. We were supplied with oranges and limes in great abundance and of the finest quality. In the course of the evening, I had stepped into the back part of the house to ask a servant to bring me a basin of water; and shortly afterwards the proprietor of the house, in company with my old friend, Senor Joaquim, came to me with a candle in his hand and said something about sickness, which I supposed referred to myself. I told him in Portuguese, of course, as neither of them understood any thing else, that nothing ailed me, and that the water asked for was simply to wash my hands and face.

They looked at each other, and wearing quite an embarrassed aspect, repeated the remark as to the sickness, which, with my imperfect knowledge of the language, was not properly understood, but was construed to mean, that I had better go to a room and lie down. Again I remonstrated, when the old Colonel gave me to understand that it was not on my account, but for the relief of another, that they desired me to go to the room. This placed the matter upon quite a different basis, and I proceeded to examine a man who had been seriously wounded on the head by the blow of a cudgel, while engaged in an affray. He was then laboring under oppression of the brain to some extent, and learning that his bowels were torpid, I administered a dose of calomel, with directions to follow it with oil, and to keep cloths wet with cold water constantly to his head, which should be placed near a window.

I went out of the room, hoping but little for any benefit from the treatment, and yet he was not in a state to bear blood-letting. Our interpreter being absent from the house caused the awkward interview as reported.

Friday, November 3, 1865.

We were all roused before daylight, to make ready for the road, and upon examining my patient I was gratified to find that his medicine had been productive of good results, with encouragement to hope for recovery.

Getting a cup of coffee before starting, we took breakfast at the house of Senor José Venancio Carneiro, and reached Brotas at twelve o’clock. We found the population alive to the importance of the visit, and an address of welcome was made to General W. W. W. Wood by Dom Francisco Ernesto Malheiros, to which the General responded. Mr. Bennaton repeated the remarks of the former at the close of his address, making &c., &c., &c., cover a large gap in memory. But he interpreted the words of the General as they were delivered, giving each paragraph separately, as a pause was made for that purpose. This part of the performance was executed to the entire satisfaction of all concerned.

I delivered a letter to the above-named gentleman, and also one to Senor Francisco de Campos of the place, each of whom tendered any assistance that might be useful to me or my friends.

It was gratifying to find here among those who rode out to meet us my friend Rev. A. L. Blackford; and upon leaving, he rode out several miles with me, as an act of personal kindness and courtesy, which was duly appreciated.

We dined in the villa of Brotas, at a house owned by the same gentleman at whose residence we breakfasted, but he was not present on either occasion, being at some distance on business in the country. Being notified by Senor Joaquim, the family arranged every thing.

When our party were in readiness to start out of town in the afternoon, there was quite a large concourse of gentlemen on horseback presented themselves to accompany us on our way; and the street was thronged on the side-walks and in the windows with women and others, who seemed to look upon our movement as something remarkable for this quiet place.

General Wood had received an invitation before reaching the town, through a special messenger, to proceed to the house of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo and spend the night. It was also stated that several letters had been received by this gentleman from persons in São Paulo, suggesting that he should entertain this party; and hence the General set aside a previous arrangement of the old Colonel, that we would go to the house of his son-in-law, and went with Senor Camargo, to enjoy his hospitality.

Upon the special invitation of my old friend, I accompanied him to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, and found that all requisite preparations had been made for entertaining the entire company. Dinner had been in progress, and all the bedding was in readiness to make all comfortable for the night.

This residence is upon the elevated plateau of the serra, and we had a very steep ascent to make in reaching the crest, but once gained, the view of the country for miles up and down the valley, or rather the lower strata of land, was really magnificent. The soil here is excellent, and all the staples are growing well. Coffee seems to flourish particularly well, though not in terra rocha.

Saturday, November 4, 1865.

My old friend, the Colonel, rose at half-past three o’clock this morning, and directed our horses to be fed and coffee to be prepared for us, preliminary to early starting.

I was forcibly reminded last night of the difference between the lady of the house and our ladies, by her remaining in the room while we were preparing to retire to bed. Though tired and sleepy, I waited some time after taking off my coat and vest, before she took the hint to leave, and after I got in bed, she came back to talk to her father, who then had off his wearing apparel, and was sitting on the side of the bed. This is mentioned simply to illustrate the want of sensitiveness on the part of women in the ordinary respectable class of society in this country.

Senor Joaquim Lorenço and I left about half-past four o’clock, with a negro to put us on the right road after getting out of the plantation. Upon reaching the fazenda of Senor Camargo, we learned that the General and his party had left some half hour previous. The road travelled by them was marked by the tracks of their animals, and, besides, a green bough of a tree had been placed in the roads that were not to be taken, and we consequently followed them without difficulty. Most persons place a bough on the road to be taken; but, knowing that Mr. Bennaton pursued the other course, I understood this thing, which was likely to puzzle the old Colonel, when he perceived the bush on one road and the tracks leading another route.

Coming up with the pack-train, we found that a camarada was ascending a tree upon which grew a large crop of very fine jaboticabas, and availed ourselves of as many as we could eat. We took, moreover, quite a supply of this delicious fruit in a handkerchief, thinking it would be very acceptable to our friends ahead; but it so turned out that I carried the rather weighty package eight miles before overtaking the party. They had halted at about eleven o’clock A. M., for breakfast, at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia; but, as there was no notice of their coming, it was likely to be some time before any thing to eat could be in readiness. It was, therefore, most acceptable to all, that the Colonel had brought an assortment of substantials, with the expectation of eating on the roadside; and they promptly availed themselves of the chickens, pork, rice, farina, &c., which was spread out before them.

Notwithstanding the flourish-of-trumpets with which Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo had announced his readiness to accommodate General Wood and party, they found quite a deficiency of the comforts which had been met elsewhere; and, going to bed on a very light repast, they were now as hungry as half-starved wolves. In a short time after this cold lunch was concluded, it was announced that a hot breakfast was ready in the dining-room, and we found the table laden with good things, of which none could partake very largely after the previous supply; yet all went through the form of eating, so as not to give offence to the lady of the house, who, in the absence of her husband, had manifested so much cheerfulness in preparing this breakfast. Senor Camargo had accompanied the party thus far, but declined to partake of the lunch, and must have felt chagrined to note the greater providence exhibited in this matter than had been observed by him in starting them out without breakfast.

There had been a considerable hubbub among our party the previous day, in reference to departing from the prearranged plan of Senor Joaquim Lorenço, that all should go to the house of his son-in-law, Senor Domingos; and in going to the fazenda of Senor Antonio Joaquim Camargo the highest expectations were indulged as to the immense preparations that had been made for a grand reception and sumptuous entertainment. When it turned out so differently from what was anticipated, all vowed that, henceforth, the party would stick to the old Colonel, and abide by whatever he might plan for them in future movements.

Our course to-day lay through fair lands for the greater portion of the route, and the place at which we stopped yields cane of the finest quality, having seen four huge oxcart loads moving from the fields to the sugar-house. This establishment has a large overshot water-wheel, and three iron cylinders for the expressing of the juice of the cane. The appliances for treating the sugar were few in number, and not apparently well adapted to the object; yet the specimen of sugar at breakfast was very fine, and was of domestic manufacture.

As stated above, the proprietor, Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozenia, was not at home; but we met him on the way, after leaving his house, and he returned with us to the Freguezia de Jahu. He took us there to a house in which his business is done, and sent out for ale to supply the whole thirsty multitude, while coffee was prepared for those of us who preferred to take it. He then went with us to the fazenda of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, about two miles from the village, where we were expected by prior arrangement.

Our host is a practising physician and has his drugs in the reception room, upon shelves occupying each side of an angle, and making evidently a good assortment of medicines, adapted to almost every use in the treatment of diseases. Although the labels were mostly in Portuguese, I readily understood them from the similarity to the technicals in Latin. Since finding the embarrassment of prescribing for those who do not understand a Latin formula, it has impressed me forcibly that this technical language that is recognized by most nations ought to be adopted by all, so as to simplify the filling of prescriptions by physicians of different countries wherever their services may be in requisition over the whole world.

The soil in this immediate vicinity is a very dark purple or brown color, and is generally called here black land, (terra preta or terra masape.) It is very rich in those elements requisite for production, and yields all kinds of crops with but little labor. The consistence is such that, when wet, it adheres with great tenacity to the shoes, and hence the term “masape.” It corresponds in many respects to the rich bottom lands lying upon the Mississippi river, and is not inferior to the best soil of that region for sugar-cane, cotton, or corn. As yet the culture of coffee has not been introduced for a length of time to test its qualities for that crop, but it is confidently expected to yield well.

In some places there are numerous small fragments of clear rock crystal mixed up with this dark soil, which shine brightly by the contrast, and cause one to think there may be diamonds in the same region. I believe, however, that jewels and minerals of much value are confined to sterile lands.

This being the thirteenth anniversary of my marriage-day, it is recalled with many reflections as to the present wide separation from her who is united with me in the holy bonds of matrimony. The day and hour and attendant circumstances of our union have all been vividly brought to mind; and the many scenes of enjoyment, with some of sadness, which have marked our course in life, have caused emotions within my breast which those around knew nothing of, and which were not in unison with the stir and excitement of the past day.

We commenced this series of thirteen years in the full enjoyment of mutual affection, yet we did not and could not know each other’s heart and devotion as we have learned them by many repeated acts of self-sacrifice on the part of each for the other. No one, without the experience of that love which exists alone between husband and wife, can realize how entirely self may be absorbed in the devotion of the soul to the welfare and enjoyment of one another. If there was a joy or a sweet allowed me in this life which could not be shared by my wife, it would detract from the gratification I would have from it; and I know too well that every happiness which can be extended to me by my true-hearted and loving wife affords an increase of happiness to her. We have shared many trials together, and have become the parents of seven children; one of whom left us for a place among the angels of heaven, at the early age of eight months, while four interesting daughters and two sons of promising parts remain to cheer us still.

How pleasant and precious is the thought of again returning to enjoy the associations of my beloved wife and my darling children. There is no sentiment of the human heart that is more elevating and refining in its tendency than the love which a husband feels for his wife, and the affection he has welling up in his breast for his children.

“In its silence and beauty,

Its passion and power;

Love breathed o’er the land

Like the soul of a flower.”

In the heart of him who has a sincere regard for his family, love is truly as delicate and sensitive as the aroma of the sweetest flower. It is the most tender and devoted consecration of the soul to the interests and enjoyments of those cherished objects. It is the confiding sincerity and purity of faith which the affectionate husband and father realizes for those that are bound to him by the most holy and gentle ties of mutual love. It is not a hope, but a full and complete enjoyment of reciprocal attachment. The faith and trust are without a shadow of misgiving as to the return they will meet, and the soul rests in blissful consciousness of the love of wife and children.

The light beaming forth in the full glare of a noon-day sun may fail to convince me of the warmth of that brilliant orb; but the glow of delight which brightens the eye and lights up the features of my wife and my children when we meet, cannot, must not, and will not, leave the shadow of a doubt as to their affection for me. We live in the sweet realization of each other’s love, and it is accompanied by the most unselfish desire to promote the comfort and enjoyment of each other.

If I seek the good things of this life, it is that my family may share them with me. If I seek exemption from the cares and vexations of the world, it is to shield them from annoyance. If I seek preferment among my fellowmen, it is with the anxious thought that they may thus be brought into more desirable and honorable associations. If I seek social enjoyment, the most exquisite gratification is found in the interchange of cordial sentiments with my own loved ones at home. All in all, it is with the anticipation of such happiness in future days that I now seek a place of refuge from the troubles of my native land.

May God in his goodness and infinite mercy protect and sustain my wife and my children, while I am endeavoring to secure a home for them here, is the constant prayer of my heart.

I am now separated from all that is held dear in the associations of life; and no step has ever been taken heretofore which caused me so much anxiety and apprehension for the welfare of my family as leaving them in the midst of troubles and irregularities in society, such as the world has never witnessed before. But having taken all the preliminary steps which human forecast could suggest for the comfort of those near and dear to me, and with the attention of a kind friend, who would look after them and their interests with the care of a brother, I trust in the providence of a merciful God, that they may be preserved from all harm, and that we may be soon returned to each other in health, peace, and happiness.

Sunday, November 5, 1865.

This being the Sabbath, I announced my intention to make it a day of rest, and the old Colonel said he would remain with me, while the others purposed to take a ride of fourteen miles to the Tieté river. A huge bag of provisions was prepared for the expedition by our host, and a guide was expected to meet them at the town of Jahu. But notwithstanding all these preliminary arrangements, the trip was abandoned, and all remained quietly at the house of Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes for the day. He is a cousin of the Colonel.

Several gentlemen came to visit us from the surrounding country, and dined with us. Among them was a Catholic priest, Senor Francisco Ferreira Garcia, the vicar of this district, and Senor Lorenço de Arruda Prado, another cousin of Colonel Joaquim.

The former had the misfortune to be thrown from his mule after bidding some of our party good-by upon the road, but was not injured. The latter appeared to be a very clever gentleman, and is said to be a successful planter. In being introduced to him by my old friend, the Colonel, I was informed of his relationship, and on his leaving, I extended the customary assistance in mounting his mule, which is regarded here as a simple act of courtesy to a gentleman who visits you. This act of attention is a part of that general politeness which is observed among the best class of Brazilians, and struck us, as it must every one not familiar with the usages of the people, in the light of a menial service that was not compatible with the relation of one gentleman to another, yet custom makes it not only proper and becoming, but almost obligatory. The party assisting usually looses the horse, holds the bridle, and steadies the stirrups while the other mounts, and the guest is expected to avail himself of this assistance without regard to the age or rank of the person tendering it, though in some instances he may demur when he thinks circumstances should preclude it.

Our host is lively and intelligent, speaking French with fluency, and having a little knowledge of the English. Shortly after our arrival at his house, I made some remark to him in Portuguese, which at first was not understood, and he indicated his wish that it should be repeated, by the usual word, “Como?” (How?) I used the same expression again and was fully comprehended, and answered accordingly. Immediately after this, General Wood’s interpreter, Mr. Snell, who is an Englishman that has been a number of years in Brazil, spoke to the Dom in Portuguese, and he, taking this to be another American with a slim stock of the language, did not comprehend what was said, and replied to him, “Não entendo,” (I don’t understand.) This gave us a good laugh upon Mr. Snell. In my use of the language it was simply “Como?” but with him, who was here as interpreter, the party addressed was compelled to say “Não entendo,” taking him to be a novice in Portuguese. The fact is, that while Mr. Snell understands the language well, and speaks it fluently, he has a habit of cutting off the last syllable of his words, that makes it somewhat difficult at times to gather the full meaning of his remarks, and hence this mistake.

The lady of the house has evidently associated more with gentlemen than most of those occupying a like position, and hence appears more at ease in company, joining in general conversation with those who speak the language. She departs greatly from the habit of our ladies by suckling her child in the presence of gentlemen. Though she was in the dining-room during our meals, the crowded table was perhaps a sufficient reason for not being seated with us, and she was looking after the proper supply of articles by the servants, though the Dom seemed to assume the chief responsibility in this respect.

The culinary arrangements of this establishment, like most others in Brazil, are under the same roof with the residence of the family, and the fire is built upon the earthen floor in the open room, without any other outlet for the smoke than is afforded by the spaces between the tiles which cover the house. As it was rather cool during the evenings, we took a seat in a circle around this fire, and thus had a very sociable family circle, which gives me the key to an explanation of that term, which has never before been fully understood.

Our host follows the course of his kinsman, Colonel Joaquim Lorenço, in regard to the abundance of supplies upon his table at all three meals, and supper is quite equal to breakfast in the variety of the articles. I tell them that they give us three dinners every day, and if we were to remain stationary, all would be foundered in a short time, or take the gout, though I do not hear of this affection in the country.

We had for supper, this evening, a portion of the large fish called the Jahu, from which the river and town derived their names. It is a huge fish similar to our catfish, though the head is not so broad in proportion to its size, and the meat tastes more like that of scale fish. All relished it very much; and, though we had fared so well at breakfast and dinner, the Jahu tempted us to eat heartily.

We had an opportunity of examining, to-day, one of the large lizards of this country, called “lagarto,” and there is nothing to which it can be better compared than a young alligator of two and a half feet in length. The resemblance in its conformation to one of our small, gray lizards is almost perfect, and the flesh is said to be very fine, but its appearance is too suggestive of the class of reptiles for my taste. This specimen was caught by a servant, and brought into the house, for our inspection, while still alive. Many of them have been seen in the woods during our tour, and they are said to be inimical to the poisonous cobra, engaging and killing the snake whenever it is encountered. The large number of these lagartos, and the few cobras, that are found in our exploration of the forest, would favor the idea that the former have established the mastery. In this view, the lagarto should be preserved from injury, and, most assuredly, something more inviting can be found for food.

The lagarto has a forked tongue like a serpent, and thrusts it out in the same manner when disturbed. It is stated, also, that during the winter months, though there be no frost, they live in a state of torpidity after the mode of reptiles.

Monday, November 6, 1865.

In accordance with previous arrangements, we were all supplied with fresh animals by the fazendeiros of the neighborhood, and set out for Sapé and the river Tieté. Reaching the fazenda of Senor Paulo Lima about eight o’clock, after a ride of twelve miles, we found that he expected us to stop and take breakfast. Though his house and the surroundings did not present a very promising aspect, yet we found, in due course of time, a most excellent meal was served to us, and all were highly pleased with the plain courtesy of our host.

The lands lying between the Freguezia de Jahu and this point are located upon either side of the river Jahu, and rather irregular in general conformation. They are, for the most part, of a deep red color and of firm consistence, with more or less of the fudra de ferro, constituting the best quality of terra rocha. The Figeré Branca and the Pon d’Alho are conspicuous in most parts of this territory, and indicate the fertility of the soil.

Throughout this region, which includes a number of old settlements, and others of more recent date, much of the matto virgem (original forest) has been cleared off, and open fields of large extent are either in cultivation or in pasture for the use of horses and cattle.

The Rio Jahu pursues a very tortuous course, with frequent falls or rapids, and offers advantageous situations for machinery at various points. It runs into the river Tieté about sixteen miles from the town of the same name, Jahu; and the lands on each side of it, throughout this extent, are of the best quality; yet the steep hills and rather mountainous elevations of the precincts unfit some of the lands for proper cultivation. These high and irregular portions of ground would be very appropriate for coffee, as the hillsides and elevated lands are usually selected for this crop; while the low flat lands in this section are liable to some frost in the cold season.

I am informed that the quality of the soil is equally good to the distance of three leagues, or twelve miles, on the north side of the Rio Jahu, and to the distance of two leagues, or eight miles, on the south side. In this extensive area there are a few small patches of less valuable land, but in the main, it will be found that the soil is of the deep red color, or of the dark brown order, and lying in many parts very advantageously for cultivation.

After breakfasting we set out again, and passing the obscure capella of Sapé, we travelled sixteen miles to the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose, where we were expected by previous notice from our friend the old Colonel. Though the house was small, and the resources for accommodating so large a number rather limited, yet he manifested a disposition to do all in his power for the comfort of the party.

We rode over a comparatively level region in coming from the house of Senor Lima to this place, and though not giving evidence of so much fertility as that near the Rio Jahu, it is generally of good quality, and is well supplied with water for ordinary domestic purposes. There was no portion of useless land seen upon this route, and no campos have been encountered since leaving the town of Brotas. The timber throughout this plateau is of good size, and much of it very favorable for splitting to make fences, as the quarenta, which grows especially abundant near the fazenda at which we are stopped. This tree is very durable when made into rails, and has its name from the impression that it lasts during forty years. In entering the premises, I observed the neatest and most substantial fencing yet seen in Brazil, and was informed that the rails are of this material. One end of the rails is embedded in the earth, and they are arranged side by side in a perpendicular form, with a cross-bar of the palmetto running horizontally about two feet from the top, which is secured by being lashed continuously with the sipo vine. This sipo is a long and slender vine of surprising strength and flexibility, which is used for confining the rafters of houses, tying timbers together where pegs or nails would be used with us, baling cotton, and, indeed, for any purpose to which ropes might be applied. It is called in common parlance the Brazilian nail, and it is remarkable to what an extent it is made a substitute for nails.

It is particularly well suited for constructing these stake-fences, and no better enclosure can be devised for the protection of a crop against large or small intruders.

General Wood, Doctor Warne, and Mr. Snell parted from the rest of us at the house of Senor Lima, and went down to the mouth of the Jahu, and descended the river Tieté in canoes for two miles. They gave a favorable account of the general outline of the banks on each side, but found the channel of the river so shallow in several places that the canoes came in contact with the bottom, and it was requisite for the boatmen to draw them over by getting out into the water. There was one point at which there were rapids or falls, and they got out upon the shore, while those in charge of the canoes carried them over the fall, receiving them again below into the canoes.

This being a drought of many months continuance, the river is said to be lower than it has been before for twelve years, and the ordinary level of the water is stated to be six feet above its present state. It is thought by persons acquainted with the river, that there is sufficient water during the rainy months, to afford a passage for flat-bottomed propellers to Perecicaba, from which point there is a wagon-road to Campinas, and from thence the railroad will perhaps be available in a few years.

From the account received, and from my personal inspection of the river, I think there is but little prospect of navigating it with safety, and unless there be a practicable route for a railway to this region of country, its products must depend on transportation by pack-mules.

The elevated serra near Brotas is perhaps the most serious obstacle to a railroad, and it remains for engineers to determine whether this can be overcome.

If a line of railroad is extended to Araraquara, and can communicate with the Rio Jaceré below Cambury, then this section of country lying between the Tieté and Jaceré might avail itself of the Jaceré for navigation up to that point, and thus get an outlet for its products.

The Jaceré is represented to have a deep and open channel from its mouth up to Cambury; and all the rich region lying between it and the Tieté and extending along the Jahu would be better accommodated by effecting this result than to attempt to navigate the Tieté upwards.

Tuesday, November 7, 1865.

Having but a limited number of beds, our host provided some dried raw-hides which were spread upon the dirt floor, and about one-half of our party slept upon them, with their overcoats, &c., assisting to fill out the scanty supply of bedding. There was no particular inconvenience experienced except from the fleas, which found ready access to our friends upon the hides and interrupted somewhat the quietness of their repose. Mr. Snell and myself were perched upon a long high table, and being thus above the jumping height of a flea we fared very well. I have carried a blanket and pillow throughout my trip, and found them with my overcoat very convenient on this occasion. A bed had been assigned to me, but feeling that our good friend Senor Joaquim Lorenço should of all others be provided for, I persuaded him to occupy the bed, and I slept comfortably upon the table during the whole night.

With the good spirit exhibited by our host we all tried to be satisfied, and though it was quite different from the comforts received at other places, he evidently did the best which his resources would allow.

The meals were abundant and well prepared, with another large Jahu fish to grace the table. As I had brought along some tomato catsup, it was drawn forth on this occasion to give a zest to the fine fish, and the entire bottle was consumed.

In connection with this, I have transported likewise from the outset, four cans of tomatoes, two cans of mutton, and one can of partridge, thinking that we would find ourselves in some situation where the necessaries of life could not be obtained; yet we have had no occasion to use them, and will not perhaps have need for them anywhere.

After an early breakfast, I set out with Dr. Warne, Dr. Wissen, Messrs. Brown and Kernan, accompanied by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, as our escort and guide, to visit a portion of the lands lying between us and the Rio Jaceré. This river was stated to be about sixteen miles distant, and thinking it would be impracticable to make the trip to the river, and return, I proposed to make a circuit, so as to return by a different route from that upon which we went out. Passing some grounds under cultivation shortly after starting, the corn and beans with sweet potatoes gave fine promise of the coming crop, and the lands in this vicinity are evidently of good quality; but after passing some miles farther, there was an inferior grade of soil with occasional indications of barrenness.

We made a halt at the house of Senor Ignacio Borgia Pedrosa, where wine and coffee were served. Some large oxen in the front of the house showed that the grass had nutritious properties, while some mares and colts running at large presented a good appearance. Subsequent to this our escort took us to the residence of Senor Candido Pereira Barbosa, but as he was absent, and we did not wish to wait for dinner, we accepted the tender of coffee, and made a lunch of sardines and cheese which had been brought to meet our necessities. Upon riding into the fields we saw some young coffee trees growing from the seed. They were two years old and looked flourishing; but with great diversity in size, resulting probably from a deficient stand when first planted, and requiring to be replanted. No estimate could be made as to the result in maturing of the coffee trees.

The lands here were of a reddish aspect, with a considerable portion of sand, and presented a favorable appearance under cultivation; but the soil is not equal to that of the lands adjacent to the Rio Jahu; nor were any of the lands seen upon our route of the first order. For the most part the surface was gently undulating, and this general tableau was supplied with a variety of excellent timber, among which the quarenta was observed to grow of full size, and abundantly.

The supply of water was confined to small branches or runs, that might be made available for a monjolo, or perhaps for a small grist-mill, but not adapted to machinery on a large scale. The largest stream traversing this section of country was stated to lie somewhat beyond the line of our route, and this may present more favorable conditions for water-power. So far as my personal observation goes, the Rio Jahu is the only reliance for the location of machinery anywhere convenient to this territory.

We had quite an adventure in the attempt of Senor Camargo to ascend a tree to gather some jaboticabas for us, and it had well nigh proved a serious matter. The body of the tree having no limbs for some distance up, he climbed as far as his strength would permit, and being unable to reach the limbs, or even to sustain himself in his grasp upon the smooth surface of the tree, he let loose and slided down most precipitately. He then secured a pole to the side of the tree with sipo, and going to the top of it had another handed up to him, which was secured above in like manner, and thus he succeeded in getting us a delicious bait of the fruit.

We returned by way of Sapé, which, though it has a few small houses in close proximity, should not be recognized as entitled to a name. In going up we passed this place without giving it a special notice; and some of the party were not apprised that any place claiming a name had been passed. It is simply a collection of some half dozen dirty hovels, and yet has a shop, at which a thirsty gentleman in our party found he could get a drink of cachaça, and stopped us to look at him go through with the performance. The patron saint of this humble refectory was a corpulent Frenchman, who had recently bought a considerable tract of land in the neighborhood, and was holding it upon speculation. He doubtless thought a good time was coming, when he was informed of our object in visiting this section, and declined to sell even at an advance of two millreas an alqueric, or sixteen and two-thirds cents per acre.

At the most remote point of our trip to-day land was valued at forty cents per acre; while here, at Sapé, it is estimated at eighty cents per acre; and between this point and Senor Lima’s one hundred dollars per acre is the price affixed. In the vicinity of Jahu two hundred dollars an acre was the valuation put upon a tract of land, which was equal to any in the country, and thus the standard prices of this section may be considered as fairly stated above, upon the authority of landowners.

We returned to our rendezvous a while before night, and found the rest of the company had not stirred beyond the premises during the day; and some of them were perched upon some timber for machinery that lay in the yard, while others met us, while relaxing their limbs in a short walk from the house toward the outer gate of the enclosure.

Wednesday, November 8, 1865.

We left the fazenda of Senor Louiz Pereira Barbose at 6 o’clock this morning, after partaking of an early breakfast, and returned to the house of our old friend Senor Lima. Here he had collected his breeding stock for our observation; and though the mares were generally of small size, there were a few very good young horses, and the colts for the most part looked well. It is a little remarkable to observe how entirely quiet the stallions are, when allowed to run at large in this way with a promiscuous drove of animals. There was a jackass also running with the stock, yet I saw no young mules; and the dull and lifeless aspect of this animal gave no promise of an increase of his stock. There were thirty mares, and if even this number were employed in rearing mules, it would doubtless prove profitable; but this scrubby specimen of horses, which are propagated, are not likely to give much return for the trouble of looking after them. These animals subsist entirely upon grass, and very rarely get salt, as it is too costly at these interior places to be afforded for stock, except in very small quantities.

Dining with Senor Lima we proceeded afterward upon the same route by which we had gone up, and reached the residence of Senor Dom Correa Leite de Moraes at four o’clock in the afternoon. He and his wife received us again most hospitably, and have extended all the kindness possible to our whole party.

Our saddle-mules have remained here in his pasture, and been fed with corn daily from his crib, while our clothing has been washed and ironed in our absence. The pack-mules have been sent off this afternoon so as to keep ahead to-morrow.

Thursday, November 9, 1865.

Our cheerful and hospitable friend, Dom José Correa Leite de Moraes, and his kind lady, received our cordial acknowledgments at leaving them this morning. Our own mules being fresh, moved off with alacrity, and upon reaching the Freguezia de Jahu, we were met by Senor José Rebeiro Camargo, and invited to the house of his son-in-law, where wine and coffee were served, and his wife and daughter came out to bid us adieu. It was thought that this demonstration was in part for the purpose of showing his unmarried daughter to one of the young men, to whom the father had taken a fancy for a son-in-law. But I doubt if the impression was well calculated to promote his wishes for incorporating an American graft into his family. This young man was furnished with a list of the entire family, and received a very cordial embrace from the father at parting.

We breakfasted at the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Oliveiro Mattozinto, and found him this time awaiting our arrival, with every thing in readiness for giving us a substantial entertainment. He had very kindly furnished mules for some of our party during the recent trip, and had accompanied us in person until sickness made it necessary for him to return.

The land from Jahu to this fazenda is of superior quality, being of the dark brown order, and as this is eight miles from the Rio Jahu, it may be inferred that this fine soil extends to a like distance from the river elsewhere on this side, which corresponds to the statement made in regard to the breadth of good land extending along this stream.

The general health of this region of country is very good, yet there are cases of chill and fever reported upon the Tieté and Jaceré, and throughout the region lying adjacent to those water-courses. No instance was brought to my knowledge of malarial disease remote from these streams; and, from the general aspects of the country, I would not think it likely to prevail to any considerable extent away from their margins.

I saw but two instances of goitre or bronchocele in this entire region of country, and the information received from Dom Correa is conclusively that they were not generated here, but imported from other parts. There is no serra here, and so far as my observation goes, goitre is confined to those living in the vicinity of the serras.

This section and the country about Araraquara are the only parts visited thus far in which this ugly deformity did not prevail amongst the women.

It is not however confined to the women exclusively, as several instances have been seen among males, and the condition of climate, water, atmosphere, or diet, which promotes the development of this condition, cannot be favorable to the constitutional health of those exposed to its influence. No leprosy found here.

We halted at a small shop upon our route to-day, where oranges were sold at the rate of four for a cent; and all of us having a relish for this fruit, concluded we never could satisfy our taste more cheaply, so we turned to and ate the whole stock in trade. One gentleman was reported to have eaten fourteen oranges, but I thought that a full complement was received with half of that number, and it puzzled me to know how any one eat more than I did in the same length of time.

A large concourse of persons on horseback were met to-day, males and females, dressed out in their best clothes. Some of them were provided with musical instruments, and there was a train of pack-mules, upon one of which there were two immense boxes, and sundry smaller trunks upon the others. We understood that it was a movement to celebrate the feast of the Holy Ghost at the Freguezia de Jahu, which is done yearly by the Catholics here.

Returning by a different route from that of our trip in going up, we encountered extensive campos, and soil generally of inferior quality, until we reached the Serra de Brotas, upon which the land, as stated previously, is very good, and lies favorably.

We reached the residence of Senor Domingos José Carneiro (son-in-law of the old Colonel) this afternoon at 5 o’clock, when we were kindly received by him and his wife, and found every thing arranged for the comfort of the entire party.

A letter was received this afternoon from our faithful friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço, responding in the most feeling terms to a communication made to him by our entire party in leaving his house. As the two letters may be now inserted together, and may give those who read these pages an idea of the relations subsisting with this noble-souled Brazilian, I will give a translation of his in connection with that sent by us.

Araraquara, November 2, 1865.

The following-named persons, recently from the United States of America, and their companions, have received such favors at your house and such assistance from you in the examination of the lands of Araraquara, that we desire to leave with you an expression of our great obligations and our sincere thanks for your kindness.

Having visited this section in search of a future home for our families, we have found you a friend that makes all of us desire to be your neighbor, and to become residents of your section of this country.

We go to look at other lands, and to ascertain the resources of other places, feeling that no people can extend to us a more cordial and generous hospitality than we have received here from you.

With the most heartfelt gratification for your reception and treatment during our sojourn with your family, please to accept our best wishes for the happiness of yourself and those composing your household.

W. W. W. Wood,

J. McF. Gaston,

[Names of all others composing the party.]

To Illm. Senor Lenenti Coronal Joaquim Lorenço Correa.

Jahu, November 8, 1865.

General W. W. W. Wood, Dom Gaston,

and other gentlemen, companions of the voyage:

With undivided pleasure I received your letter of the second of the current month, in which with great magnanimity you manifest your sentiments of gratitude for the little or no service which I rendered you during your brief stay in the woods of Araraquara.

In returning to your firesides, which in a short time you intend to abandon, choosing for your new home and that of your children the land of the Holy Cross, where it was my fortune to be born, say to your countrymen that in this land there are generous hearts that sympathize much with the southern inhabitants of the United States of North America.

Coming to dwell in these lands, I hope you may be happy, promoting the happiness of yourselves, and the future happiness of your children. And you may be sure of this, that here you will always find one friend, faithful and sincere.

Joaquim Lorenço Correa.

My personal relations to this gentleman inspired a sort of parental regard for him, which makes me cherish this kind memento more perhaps than others of the company, and I have therefore preserved the original, as a souvenir of his friendship and generosity. We all desired to have a likeness of our good friend, by which we might be constantly reminded of that genial expression which springs from his pure heart; but the photographists in this section are very poorly provided with materials, and could not take the impression.

The high appreciation which all of us have for the character of Senor Joaquim Lorenço is only in keeping with the estimate in which he is held by all with whom we have conversed, in the vicinity of Araraquara; and he is, with one accord, regarded as the leading spirit of all that country. His title of Lieutenant-Colonel is by virtue of his position as commandant of the national guard of the district, and from his admirable management for our tour, I should expect him to conduct a campaign very successfully. All was done quietly by him, and in his discipline upon his premises no loud word or confusion ever occurred, but every thing progressed with great regularity.

Friday, November 10, 1865.

Leaving the house of our kind host, Senor Domingos José Carneiro, we descended the Serra de Brotas by a most precipitous route, differing from that of our ascent, which was very steep, in being likewise very rugged and narrow. It was not desirable to remain upon our mules in making this passage down a steep, irregular, and rocky road, so that all but one of the party dismounted, and lead our animals. The father of our host, Senor José Venancio Carneiro, having spent the night with us, they both accompanied us this morning, and upon arriving at the villa of Brotas we found that the elder gentleman had arranged for us to take refreshments at his house, where we had dined in passing through. The table was provided with very fine canned peaches and other fruits, while wine and coffee were also served, thus tempting us to eat, though we had so recently taken a hearty breakfast where we spent the night.

How we parted finally with our true-hearted friend, Senor Joaquim Lorenço Correa, which was quite a touching scene, in the manifestation of deep feeling with him and with all of us.

In company with Senor Domingos we proceeded sixteen miles, for the most part through a dreary campo, to the fazenda of Senor Francisco Antonio Macede, who is a son-in-law of Senor José Venancio, and by whom we were joined at this place in the course of the evening after our arrival.

Coffee was growing here in great luxuriance, and one single tree was pointed out to us which yielded over one arroba (which is thirty-two pounds) at a single crop. The trees were unusually large, and hence had the appearance of being too crowded in most parts of the field.

Several patients were prescribed for at this place, and I was impressed with the ingenuity displayed in a truss of domestic manufacture, which was worn by a negro man, laboring under hernia. Of course, no charge was made for advice anywhere, while enjoying the generous hospitalities of the people, though they frequently asked for my bill, when services were rendered, as at this place.

The sun was oppressively hot during the latter part of our ride to-day, and this was followed by a shower of rain just as we arrived, but it was slight, scarcely laying the dust. The country is suffering from need of rain, and that topic, which ordinarily is regarded commonplace, becomes now one of great interest to travellers as well as planters. While we find the dust from a large number of animals occasionally troublesome, the heat is of course more intense when the earth is dry and parched than it would be if some evaporation was taking place from a damp surface. Still, however, we do not find travelling in the heat of the day attended with greater inconvenience than during the summer in the Southern States, and we are now approaching the hottest season of this latitude. It would be preferable for those exploring this country to travel early in the morning and late in the evening, and the arrangement of hours for breakfast and dinner could be made so as to lie by during the entire hot portion of each day, with greater comfort to man and beast.

A sumptuous lunch, brought by Senor Domingos, was eaten with oranges, upon stopping to-day, and was followed by coffee furnished at this place. It will be seen that these people know how to provide for the inner man. A dinner of most ample proportions was served at six o’clock, and all had to rally their appetites again.

Saturday, November 11, 1865.

After taking breakfast at an earlier hour than usual, we left the fazenda of Senor Francisco, accompanied by him and his father-in-law, Senor José Venancio.

This old gentleman seems determined to make amends for his absence from home when we first visited his house; and, in response to a letter of introduction which I delivered to him, he said that he stood ready to aid us in any way we might command his services. He said that in the event our people should conclude upon coming anywhere in this region of country, to give him notice, and transportation would be provided free of cost to as many as he could find mules to accommodate, either of his own or other parties.

My attention was attracted this morning by the peculiar yelping of a large bird of the ostrich order, which I endeavored to get a sight of, but being very shy, it ran away and was concealed in the thick shrubbery of the campo.

We passed the small stream Rio Onca (tiger river) and the large and clear water-course Rio Lobos (wolf river), where a small piece of matto virgem (original forest) of good quality was entered, which was the only relief to the extended campos, until we approached near to the fazenda of Senor Joaquim Firmino de Oliveiro.

Here we stopped, and were regaled with an ample supply of jaboticabas, that fruit which, once eaten, no one can ever fail to enjoy. Having dined in a very substantial way with this gentleman, some of the party concluded to remain there with General Wood for the night; while I came with others to the city of Rio Claro, in the midst of a considerable fall of rain.

We stopped at the house of Dr. J. H. Gattiker, a Swiss physician, and in his absence were courteously received and entertained by his dignified and yet affable lady.

Sunday, November 12, 1865.

With our wants of every kind provided for in the best style, the beds were especially neat, having damask covers lined with silk, and the pillow-cases trimmed with fringe of the most tasteful pattern. The towels were also of fine material, and each end trimmed with fringe. Before making our toilet, coffee was served at our rooms in those beautiful china cups which are found generally in the houses of the better class of people. When I left my room, the Doctor was found in the parlor waiting to receive us; and, knowing that any thing from the United States, just now, would interest us, he went out and procured some copies of the Presbyterian newspaper, from the house of the Rev. Mr. Snyder, which were particularly appropriate for the day. I called, subsequently, and saw Mrs. Snyder; but, not finding Mr. Snyder at home, her tender of hospitality was declined for the present time.

General Wood and the rest of the party arrived in time to join us at a very late breakfast, and it was really a feast of fat things, in great variety and much good taste. I was seated at one end of the table, with the lady of the house upon my left hand, and I made such use of my limited stock of Portuguese as was necessary in communicating with her.

Some of our companions proposed to go to Ybicaba to-day, while the General and myself, with Mr. Snell, as interpreter, concluded to remain quietly here; and I wrote a lengthy communication for my friends, and also a letter to my wife, as appropriate Sunday-work.

All of us dined together; and the most bountiful supply was arranged in the greatest elegance upon the extended table, with a huge, fat turkey dressed in the best style, from the carving of which the General relieved our hostess.

Monday, November 13, 1865.

Our kind hostess furnished us with a cup of most excellent chocolate, before breakfast, this morning, though coffee had already been served prior to leaving our rooms. The General said that all his needs were supplied by this nutritious drink, and becoming very impatient at the delay of breakfast, proposed to go without waiting for it. But Dr. Gattiker would not hear of our going without breakfast; and, indeed, after breakfast, we had great difficulty in getting off from him, as he insisted we must spend the day at his house. I was favored with photographs of the Doctor and his wife, which will be treasured up in the collection of my friends in Brazil—she being a native of the country.

Upon starting, it was found that my mule was suffering from the loss of a shoe, and it became necessary for me to stop on the road, that he might have it replaced. General Wood and Mr. Snell, in the mean time, adopted my suggestion, and proceeded to Ybicaba. As the camaradas were behind, I awaited their arrival, and, taking one of their mules, he remained to bring mine when it was shod.

I made a fruitless attempt to advance upon this lazy and perverse mule, but at length, in despair, stopped upon the roadside, and dismounted to await the arrival of my own. Here, in the wild forest, it occurred to me that a tiger or other wild beast might attack me, but I congratulated myself that I could get out of the way faster on foot than upon this stupid animal, and it might be that the carnivorous propensity of the wild occupant of the woods would be satisfied with the tough carcass of the old mule, which I would leave to his tender mercies.

I thought we had started with some of the most shabby animals that the province could afford, but some of those which were left at Ybicaba by General Wood’s party were even worse than the two left by us. These animals were such as had been in use for the military service, and were turned out upon such pasturage as the lands around the city of São Paulo would furnish, which, from notice under a former date, may be inferred would not have the effect of improving their flesh or strength. Of such as the President had, gave he unto us; and we were thankful for the small service they rendered in getting us to places where we were generously supplied by our friends with better animals.

A few of the public animals were retained for the trip by General Wood’s party, and we kept two mules in service that were improved by the regular feeding, with comparatively light work under our pack-saddle.

As we are booked to remain as the guests of Senor Vergueiro to-morrow, it is expected that some of the camaradas will proceed with this drove of emaciated horses and mules in advance, so as to allow them to move leisurely. Some of them are scarcely able to drag their bare bones along, and they will accordingly go in light-moving order, without incumbrance of any sort.

The entire number of horses and mules belonging to both parties amounts to thirty-three, and there are about one-half the number belonging to parties at different points on the road, who had furnished them for the expedition, while perhaps there are a half dozen of the public animals in service, leaving ten of the nondescripts going loose.

Tuesday, November 14, 1865.

The following items are furnished by Senor José Vergueiro as the standard valuation of articles in this section:

The above with feed, clothing and medical attention by year.

Dom João Guilheoma D’Aguier Whitaker, Juiz de Direita, da Comarca de São João de Rio Claro, informs us that he has been directed by his family connection and friends to put at the service of our people, when they may arrive at Santos, a sufficient number of mules to transport them and their effects.

Senor Vergueiro has furnished General Wood with thirty-six different varieties of wood, which are to be found in the district of Lemaire, and suited to different domestic purposes, of which the names are given below.

Arindiaba, (very durable.)

Cabrinba, (for building.)

Yssé, (for building.)

Saguaragy, (for building.)

Sucupyra, (for building.)

Tayúba, (for building.)

Assaçafrá, (for building.)

Canella preta, (for building.)

Jacoranda, (rose wood.)

Cavyúna, (for building.)

Gualrynoyra, (for building.)

Jataby, (for building.)

Cajarâna, (for building.)

Araribá, (for fencing.)

Guaranta, (splits well for rails.)

Peroba, (fine canoes.)

Peroba-Merim, (for building.)

Guarabytá, (for building.)

Cedro, (door and window shutters.)

Jiquitiba, (for building.)

Timbo, (for building.)

Gleo, (valuable fruit.)

Guatambu, (for fencing.)

Açoita-Carallos, (for building.)

Caxétas, (for building.)

Vatinga, (for building.)

Alecryser, (for building.)

Chimbé, (for fencing.)

Batáia, (canoes.)

Maria Preta, (for building.)

Figueira, (for building.)

Jugá, (for building.)

Guabiroba, (for building.)

Guarahyúba, (for fencing.)

Pitanga, (for fencing.)

Jaboticaba, (delicious fruit.)

These specimens of wood represent the useful growths of timber in this district of the province of São Paulo, and there are likewise a great number of palm trees, different qualities of cane, (bamboo and taqueira,) with a variety of vines, of which the sipo is especially valuable for cordage and other uses.

The guaranta is the best material for fencing, as it splits readily and is very durable. The hardness of most of the wood in this country is the most serious obstacle to using it in the form of plank.

Specimens of the following-named grasses have likewise been furnished to General Wood:

Gramminha.

Gramminha fina.

Pé de galinha.

Passuam.

Cassium Gerdura.

Gramma Naturæ.

Gramma larga.

Cassium Milham.*

Cassium Angelinha.*

Cassium de Angola.*

Those marked thus * are suitable for cutting and curing as hay, and we find this fazendeiro has a considerable amount dried and stored away for use as may be required.

As there is no frost here to destroy the grass, and animals can run upon the pastures throughout the year, very few persons think it necessary to cure hay, yet these high grasses are cut and fed to milch cows, or to horses that are not put out to graze, and thus they are very useful.

During the cooler months of winter, and when there is a protracted drought in the warm season, none of the grasses grow so luxuriantly, and the grazing is of course much impaired, so that it is very convenient to lay up a supply of hay, as is done at this place during the season of full development, and retain it to meet emergencies.

This region of country is more particularly adapted to agricultural operations, and makes a better return under cultivation than to be used for pasturage, yet grass is produced of the best quality when it is allowed to grow naturally or the land is planted artificially with either the seed or the radicals of the different grasses. One of the varieties of cassium is propagated entirely by transplanting the roots, from which it extends.

Combining a notice of the habits and customs of the people with a record of their material resources, it is my privilege to note the entertainment given us to-day by our host. Quite a number of his friends were invited to join us at dinner, and the preparations for the feast were most elaborate. There were twenty-six persons seated at the table, including the lady of the house, whose quiet dignity gave a grace to the elegant style in which all was arranged. Our party were seated in juxtaposition to each other, General Wood being in the middle, and having Dr. Warne on his left hand and myself on his right. On the opposite side to us was seated Mr. Henry Whitaker, who was to act as interpreter. From this portion of the table there extended at right angles two wings, at which the other guests were seated, Senor Vergueiro being at the end of one of the wings and Dom Whitaker, Juiz Direita, at the end of the other. Senhora was seated at one of the angles adjoining the portion of the table occupied by our party, and thus as will be perceived entirely separated from her husband.

A description of the numerous dishes, and the many varieties of liquors and wines, is out of my power, as it was far more extensive than we are accustomed to see at a dining.

Early in the progress of the substantial part of the dinner, Senor Vergueiro arose and addressed those present as to his object in thus assembling his fellow-citizens with us around his table, closing with a sentiment complimentary to all our party, and mentioning by name General Wood and myself. To this the General responded at considerable length, closing with a toast to our host and hostess, when I made some remarks and toasted the authorities of Brazil, and the counties of Rio Claro and Lemeire; Dr. Warne responded to a sentiment from Judge Whitaker, and gave a toast, and, in like manner, Mr. Kernan being called out, made a few remarks and gave a toast.

All the remarks in either language were interpreted by Mr. Whitaker as the speakers proceeded, each making a pause between sentences, and thus all was mutually understood, giving the whole proceedings a fine effect.

A large proportion of the Brazilian guests joined in the expression of sentiments welcoming our people to this province, and manifesting much interest in the result.

After spending an hour at the table Mrs. Vergueiro retired, much after the style with us, and the festivities were kept up for three hours, amidst the most vociferous cheering and singing. This reminded me very much of some of the public dinners of our associations or societies, and we could scarcely realize that it was merely a collection of gentlemen at a private house.

When the scenes at the table were ended, by a toast to the Emperor, the company went to the saloon adjoining the dining-room, and engaged during the evening in various stag dances and comic plays. Even blindman’s buff was joined in by the parish priest, who was in attendance, and seemed to enjoy the sports hugely. Some of the recreations consisted in rehearsals of the pastimes of the lower order of people (called here caipira) when they have gatherings in the country, such as we would style a frolic or break-down.

Wednesday, November 15, 1865.

A large portion of the company having spent the night under the hospitable roof of our host, they left early this morning for their homes, and we were served with an early breakfast preparatory to our renewing our travel. Arriving at the villa of Lemeira, we stopped a short time at the house of Captain Lonço Franco, who took such a fancy to his brother larador (farmer) Mr. Brown, that he presented him with a likeness of his wife. Ale, wine and brandy were produced for the company, but we found much difficulty here, as elsewhere, in procuring water to drink, from the fact that no pails or buckets for holding water are ever kept in their houses. The article ordinarily used is a sort of earthenware jug or large bottle, but this is frequently not supplied with water, and it consequently has to be sent off to be filled when water is desired.

So far as I have observed there are no wells in this country, and upon inquiring why they were not used, the statement was made that there was no need for them, as there is an abundance of fresh running water to be found everywhere. The proximity to a spring seems to be a matter of little moment, and consequently the water is not often found very cool. Indeed, ice seems to be in very little demand in the cities, as there are machines for its manufacture at several points, which are not employed, and yet this article sells in Rio de Janeiro for ten cents per pound by retail.

We proceeded to the inn at the bridge of Atibaia for dinner, and afterwards to another inn at Quilambo, where our party spent the night.

Thursday, November 16, 1865.

Mr. Snell having gone forward last night to Campinas, where he resides, was requested to advise Senor Joaquim Bonifacio D’Amaral, alias Settequéda, that we would come to his house this morning for breakfast. Moving accordingly at an early hour, we rode sixteen miles, and upon entering the city, we met our friend, Senor Joaquim, with a party of other gentlemen on horseback, who came out to escort us to his house in Campinas.

It is eminently becoming that honor should be given where it belongs, and therefore, as a matter of history, I will state that General W. W. W. Wood was the object and prime cause of these demonstrations made at different points upon our route. Prior to joining him, I saw nothing of this kind of display on the part of the people, and pursued a very quiet business-like course in my associations with the inhabitants of the different sections visited. As there is nothing else to occupy my attention in passing again over the road previously travelled, it is very satisfactory to witness these manifestations in behalf of the representative of seven States.

We found every thing in complete order upon our arrival, and rooms with the neatest possible outfit for each of us. After washing and getting a cup of coffee breakfast was announced, and the ladies of the house were met in the dining-room, when I advanced and shook hands as with old friends. Senhora seemed to take quite an interest in my small acquisitions in Portuguese since my previous visit to the family, and I was encouraged to use all in my power, talking for myself and a little likewise for the General and others seated near me.

Dr. Reinhardt and Dr. Vaz, practitioners of the city, were met here, and the former coming some years ago from the United States, speaks our language fluently; while the latter uses some words and sentences of English, but slowly and imperfectly. I attempted to talk Portuguese to him while he responded in English, and we managed to communicate most matters that either desired to speak. As there were quite a number of the gentlemen of the city invited to breakfast with us, I made the acquaintance of some of the best people in the place, and renewed my acquaintance with Senor Joaquim Egydio de Sonsa, who is not so demure as he seemed upon my former meeting with him.

He accompanied Dr. Vaz, Dr. Warne, and myself to his city residence, for the purpose of eating jaboticabas; and while I enjoyed the fruit, I was much more favorably impressed with his bearing than previously. We saw there, also, a specimen of the small stingless bee of this country, which makes its receptacle for the honey in the hollow of a tree or the crevice of a wall, and affords the most delicious article that is ever made by any of the bee class.

There was a variety of fruit trees in the garden of this gentleman, and among them a specimen of the peach; which was, however, of inferior quality, as are all seen in any part of the country.

A large company was invited to join us at dinner to-day, and the entertainment was most sumptuous; with a fine turkey in addition to a fine old ham, and other meats, and as a compliment to the dessert, a plum pudding held a conspicuous place. This last delicacy was dressed in a way that I have not been accustomed to see; loaf sugar being placed over it, and then Cognac brandy poured upon this, and set on fire by a strip of paper which accompanied the lighted candle. I confess in this matter to have shown my greenness, as I really did not understand the programme until it was explained to me; and this account of the after dinner scene may enable some other person to avoid showing their ignorance. This dish is called here by its English name, plum pudding; and in like manner, roast beef is known by this name among the best families.

I was quite surprised when asked by the lady of the house, “Quere plum pudding?” and upon inquiry I was informed that when this article was imported the name was imported with it.

While we were yet engaged with the meats, Dr. Vaz arose, and representing our host, made a short speech of welcome to us, and closed with a sentiment embodying all by name. To show his appreciation of the compliment, the General made rather a lengthy address for a dinner table, and toasted the Emperor of Brazil and the province of São Paulo.

With a few preliminary remarks, I gave the sentiment that Settequéda and São Lorenço would long be remembered as the homesteads of our best friends. Dr. Warne premising some remarks, toasted our host and hostess.

General Wood not being well, begged to be excused, and retired to his room before the exercises were concluded, when Dr. Vaz went out to minister to him. Commendador Egydio and Senor Dom Pinto made addresses complimentary to our people, and calculated to encourage our movement to this country.

The remarks on this occasion were interpreted by Mr. Bennaton, as each speaker proceeded, and quite an awkward scene occurred from the deafness of Dom Pinto, who had not perceived that the remarks were interpreted; and when he rose to speak, afforded no opportunity for the interpreter to repeat his words; who consequently had to abandon the undertaking and leave the Dom to proceed without any prospect of being understood by our party.

After dinner I went with Dr. Reinhardt to his house and received much information as to the country and the medical profession of the city. He tells me that the physicians here realize from $5,000 to $7,000 per annum, and that the plantations of coffee around the place afford a considerable share of the business. He thinks of coming to the United States after a few years for the purpose of educating his children, having married and raised a family in Brazil.

The most attractive feature of the hospitalities of Senor Joaquim Bonifacio was the party given in the evening, at which there were present many of the elite, with several very pretty and sprightly young ladies. The daughters and wife of Dr. Vaz were introduced to me and others of our party by himself; and these fine-looking and elegantly-dressed young ladies were the stars of the evening, though there were others who were much admired by the gentlemen of our party. General Wood having recovered from his indisposition, danced with several of the ladies, and appeared the gayest among the gay. Dr. Warne also danced several rounds, and even enjoyed the intimate relations of a waltz with the younger daughter of Dr. Vaz. The older daughter had the lower part of her fine skirt torn in the dance, and in assisting her to pin it up, I made a blunder, by saying “sua vestida muito ruim.”

The idea that I wished to convey was, that her dress was in bad condition from this accident; but I learned afterwards that the true import of my words was, Your dress is very worthless. It is to be hoped, however, that she would attribute it to my ignorance, though I observed at the moment that she had rather a peculiar expression of dissatisfaction, and made no reply to my remark.

The music on this occasion was very superior; there being one band with brass instruments at the outer front door where the company were assembling, and another band which made music for the dancing when it began about 9 o’clock in the evening. At the close some pieces were performed upon the piano by a gentleman, and accompanied by a cornet-a-pistons, which received the undivided attention of the assemblage.

The refreshments were served upon waiters by the gentlemen in attendance, and the wants of every one were looked after assiduously. This is a feature of difference that will strike all as corresponding to the courtesy alluded to in regard to rendering assistance in mounting, and more remarkable in a slave country where the houses are supplied with excellent servants.

Tea, chocolate, and coffee were handed, with quite a variety of cakes and sweetmeats; while at the close of the evening, or rather the morning, for it was then 2 o’clock A. M., a concentrated chicken-soup was served in teacups. This struck me as very proper to meet the exhaustion incident to the active exercise and loss of sleep at this late hour, and yet it was new.

Though the want of a common tongue was embarrassing to all parties, the evening passed very pleasantly.

Friday, November 17, 1865.

While there was much elegance and many conveniences connected with the large establishment in which we were quartered, we were surprised to learn that there was no privy about the place, and the only alternative was the use of chamber-pots in the rooms for all the uses of such places. The repugnance felt with American gentlemen to this proceeding is not lessened by the necessity of their situation in the midst of a city, and one of the improvements much needed in the domestic arrangements of this country is the addition of latrines to their premises. If a room was set apart for offices of this kind, it would obviate some of the embarrassments; yet a neat privy kept in good order is a very genteel appendage to an establishment; and by inviting to the regular discharge of the functions of the intestinal canal, it exercises a beneficial influence on health, and the general comfort of a family.

Upon being introduced to a lady in the house as the sister of our host, I was informed by him that she was the mother of his wife, which of course makes him the uncle of his wife. Had I not found previously that this kind of marriage takes place here very frequently, and that among the best class of people, it would have been regarded as a matter of too much delicacy to refer to in a record of this kind. In three instances, of the most intelligent and most refined people met with in this country, the lady is the niece of her husband, and I must forbear to express my convictions of the consequences that must be entailed upon posterity by this course.

It was arranged that we would leave this morning; and, in consideration of the temporary illness of the General last evening, a carriage was provided, with four horses, to convey him to Jundiahi, and Mr. Bennaton takes a seat with him.

The rest of us being ready to go in advance, moved off on horseback, escorted out to the edge of the town by Senor Joaquim Bonifacio and several of his friends. He pointed out on the way a number of houses occupied by Germans who were formerly colonists upon this place, and also their school-room filled with children, which, taken together, indicates that they are getting along prosperously in their new homes.

We stopped upon the road to-day at an inn (hospidaria) kept by one of these German families, who had collected a considerable property in a few years, and they now have a plantation with several slaves, in connection with a thriving house of entertainment for travellers. Most of those who entered business originally with some of the Fazendieros as colonists, have since attained to a moderate competency, and settled themselves upon small farms or engaged in mercantile business.

Campinas is surrounded by large and flourishing coffee plantations, and is the residence of many wealthy planters, yet I understand that there is not much trade of any kind conducted in the city. Should the projected railroad be built in a reasonable time, it will enhance the importance of this city vastly, and it will then become attractive as a location for business and as a place of residence for families. I await the result with a feeling of interest.

On our route to-day we found that three out of the number of disabled public animals had been left at different points, as it was impracticable for them to travel with the train, while the others proceeded to our place of stopping, within one mile of Jundiahi.

This inn, kept by Senor José Pinto, is a fair sample of these houses of entertainment for travellers, and though we were molested with fleas as we went up, the general provisions for our accommodation were as good as are usually found at these places. There are two young women about the house, who are daughters of the proprietor, and don’t seem to have any fear of strangers, attending promptly to all their wants. The proprietor, who is generally known as Barão (the Baron), is immensely corpulent, and locomotes as little as possible, yet he learns every thing that can be communicated by persons passing in either direction, and is regarded as the best authority for what is going on in the country.

One of the small forest hogs, called tité, that are abundant in some regions we have visited, was seen domesticated at this place. It looks very much like we might expect a cross between a hog and a goat to appear, being of a gray color, and without any tail, but with a head corresponding very much to that of the ordinary swine.

This animal rarely exceeds fifty pounds weight, and is an excellent article for the table, the flesh being delicate and tender. The woman who owned this desired to sell it to us, but as our transportation was not suited for the accommodation of life-stock, it had to be left for some other purchaser.

A well-assorted and abundant supply of eatables was sent by our hostess at Campinas to meet our wants for the day, and nothing was required at the inn.

Saturday, November 18, 1865.

Being aroused early this morning we were served with a cup of coffee by Barão, and prepared for the road. The General rode into the villa of Jundiahi in the four-horse carriage, and there dismissing the driver and equipage to return to Campinas, he mounted his mule again, feeling much reinforced for the journey.

One of the camaradas was sent back by Mr. Bennaton with money to pay for the attention given by parties on the road to the disabled animals, and with instructions to bring them forward leisurely, so as to return them to the government authorities at São Paulo.

As I did not care to remain at Jundiahi, while the General was undergoing the transfer from his four-horse carriage to the mule, I came on in advance and reached the house of Mr. D. H. Sampson at Cachoeira about 9 o’clock. My kind friend here expressed his satisfaction at my return; and when informed that the rest of the party were on the way, he proceeded to order breakfast for all.

We soon heard the sound of the horn, which General Wood had carried with him throughout the tour, giving his signals for moving or stopping, and on various other occasions as his fancy dictated.

The entire party rested at Cachoeira until the afternoon, when the General and his party proceeded to an inn called Peru, twelve miles distant; and Mr. Bennaton remained with me for the night, under the hospitable roof of friend Sampson.

Sunday, November 19, 1865.

Rising before daylight, the French cook Philipe, who has charge of Mr. Sampson’s establishment, gave us a cup of coffee with bread and butter, and we mounted our mules for a direct ride of twenty-eight miles to São Paulo. The excellent mule which had been furnished me by Mr. Gephardt for the trip was placed at my service by Mr. Sampson for the ride to the city; and I feel under the greatest obligations to these gentlemen for their disinterested kindness to me in this and in other matters.

The spirit of accommodation manifested by Mr. D. H. Sampson, with his acts of generosity to myself and others who have come from the Southern States, makes us realize that the interest he has taken in our cause is extended to us; and for myself, I shall always feel grateful to him for his substantial favors, and his courteous attentions extended to me.

In following the grade of the railway we passed the termination of the iron rail twelve miles from the city of São Paulo, and learned from a man engaged on the road that there would be an interruption of some months, from a land-slide at the Serra de Santo having stopped the transportation of iron. This serra is likely to be a very serious obstacle to the success of the road, as even when in working order the inclined plane, with four stationary engines to draw up the cars, is an inconvenient arrangement, and not by any means free from danger. The effect of these repeated land-slides must be unfavorable to our prospects of making a settlement in the interior, and it thus becomes more important to ascertain whether some other locality may not prove more advantageous.

We reached São Paulo at noon, General Wood and his party having arrived an hour previously.

After breakfast and a bath, I walked down to give a letter to Mrs. Blackford from her husband, and to inquire for letters from my wife and friends. It was a great disappointment to find no letters here, nor at the post-office; and my only hope now is, that there may be letters for me at Rio de Janeiro, on my arrival there.

During the afternoon I was called upon at the Hotel da Europa by Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo, and at the same time General Wood was visited by Senor Dom Joaquim Antonio Pinto, Junr.

The question of an emigration association being presented by General Wood to Dom Pinto, he said that he would confer with his friends in regard to such an organization. He made out a list of names that would probably be favorably disposed in this matter, and that would be requested to meet here to-morrow at 12 o’clock, in regard to the plan of proceeding.

It was found this afternoon that one of General Wood’s trunks, containing specimens of coffee, wood, and grass, was missing; and as it was supposed that the camarada Manoel, or the servant Fortunatus, should be held responsible for its return, the police were advised of the facts and arrested the former, committing him to jail for further investigation.

This trunk had been taken first to the quarters of Senor Street, under the impression that it contained articles belonging to him; but on finding that it was to go to the hotel, the camarada intrusted it to a negro that was not personally known to him, and nothing has been heard of it since.

Monday, November 20, 1865.

With a view to dispose of the matter referred to last in my previous record, I may state that General Wood had the camarada Manoel released from confinement this morning. He then set about investigating the locality of the negro man to whom he had given the trunk, and while we were at dinner, Manoel came in with the trunk, exciting the sympathy of all present by his manner, and the known fact of his innocence as to the miscarriage of the trunk. It seems, according to the statement, that the negro brought the trunk to the hotel, but not knowing the name of the person for whom it was intended, he remained for a time, and then, with a view to secure his fee when it was delivered, took it to his own quarters.

In compliance with the request of General Wood, I wrote out to-day for him a report of the recent tour and examination of the lands of Araraquara and Jahu, with a proposition to adopt this region as a location, if proper facilities can be afforded by the government of Brazil. He expects to submit this to the President of the province of São Paulo during an audience to-morrow, and it is supposed that this official will recommend measures for accomplishing the object in view to the Minister of Agriculture at Rio de Janeiro.

I was asked by the General to go to his room for an introduction to the gentlemen assembled there, for conference as to an association to promote emigration, and found the following persons present: Senor Dom Joaquim Antonio Pinto, Junr., Senor Dom Bernardo d’Avelino Gavião, Senor Dom Fidelis Nepormecino Prates, Senor João Ribeiro de Santos Carmargo, Commendador Vicente de Sonsa Queiroz, and Senor Dom Martinho da Silva Prado.

Tuesday, November 21, 1865.

I accompanied General Wood to-day to call upon the President of the province at 12 o’clock, and the General handed him his report, with the map of the country traversed, as made out by Mr. Street, the engineer, who accompanied him throughout the tour. The General made some remark in regard to my co-operation with him, which being interpreted to the President, he desired to know if I concurred with General Wood in considering these lands desirable for my friends, and whether he would be authorized to state this fact to the Minister of Agriculture. I replied, that of the lands which had been examined I was most pleased with those included in the limits indicated; though it might then have been further stated that I had not seen all that was desirable to enable me to make a proper selection.

At 4½ o’clock P. M. we met the gentleman who called yesterday at General Wood’s room, at the palace of the President, where this official was present, with the following other persons of distinction, viz.: Barão de Itapetininga, Barão de Ignape, Barão de Rio Claro, Dom Luiz Antonio de Sonsa Barros, Dom Silveirio Rodriquez Jordão.

After a short period of silent suspense, General W. W. W. Wood rose, and with Mr. Bennaton as interpreter, proceeded to lay before this dignified and highly respectable assemblage his views in regard to the objects to be attained by the organization of a society to promote emigration to Brazil, and especially to this province. But he concluded with referring any action that might be thought proper to the discretion of those present who might feel interested in the movement. He subsequently requested that Dom Gavião would give his views to the meeting, which he did at some length without rising from his seat; and as Mr. Bennaton stated subsequently, quite favorably to the object in contemplation. General Wood then made a few remarks further, touching the subject under consideration, at the close of which I suggested that we should retire, and leave our Brazilian friends to deliberate freely upon all points they might desire to discuss. It was accordingly so announced, and we took our leave of this select assemblage.

I called early this morning upon Senor Bento Alves, No. 10, Rua do Commuveio, to make arrangements for visiting a fazenda, called Bananal, some sixteen miles from the city. Finding he had but one animal at hand, I had to wait until next day for him to procure one for me, and we expect to go to-morrow morning at 6 o’clock, without any interpreter.

Wednesday, November 22, 1865.

The result of the meeting yesterday was the formation of an association to promote emigration, with the following appointment of officers:

For President, Barão de Ignape.

For Vice-President, Commendador Queiroz.

To Draft a Constitution, Commendador Queiroz, Dom Bernardo Gavião, and Dom Pinto, Junr.

Thus we have the initiation of a very important movement for the interest of those who may come from the Southern States to this province; and the only feature that strikes me unfavorably is, that the president is quite an old man, without that energy which a younger person could bring to the work. If it can be brought into that practical and efficient operation which the expressions of favor would warrant, we may confidently rely upon something being effected for the advantage of emigrants from the Southern States.

I rode with Senor Bento Alvez to-day, to visit the Fazenda Bananal; and though he understood nothing of English I managed to use enough Portuguese to make him understand me, and I guessed pretty successfully at what he said to me on the way.

The first five miles of our route was over a most excellent public highway, to the Frequezia Penha, which has cost the province a round sum of money; but there are very few buggies or carriages to enjoy this fine drive. I was especially struck with the great number and variety of crosses, made of wood, that stood upon the roadsides after passing this little village; and my travelling companion never came opposite to one, without raising his hat, as an act of religious veneration. Some of these crosses indicate that a death has occurred near, or serve as a talisman. It is so common to see a cross upon the roadsides, in various portions of this country, that I have endeavored to get some intelligible explanation of their design; but no one seems to have any more satisfactory solution than that these people think that they secure some immunity from all harm by the presence of a cross. They are seen very frequently at the forks of roads, at the point where a family path leads into the main road.

If a murder has occurred at any particular spot, there a cross is certainly erected; and as murders were very ordinary occurrences throughout certain portions of this country in former years, it may be that most of the crosses, remote from dwellings, indicate the site of a murder. These crosses are frequently covered by a small house, and garlands of flowers will sometimes be seen, either fresh or decayed, upon them. There is a basis of superstition connected with all this, which the intelligent Roman Catholics of Brazil ignore and lament; yet the mass of the people, in their ignorance, continue to practice these things with a reverential awe.

In lieu of breakfast we stopped at a wayside inn, and got a cup of coffee, which was enjoyed with my cold lunch of beef and bread given me by the landlady at the Hotel da Europa.

Being now in good riding-trim, and being mounted upon an easy-going horse, I took the lead, so as to hurry up my Brazilian friend. He is of Spanish extraction; and not much more of the go-ahead in his composition than pertains to the character of most of these people, who have grown up under the idea that to-morrow is as good as to-day.

Upon entering the lands of the fazenda we first encountered an extensive level plain, which is called “campo largo.” This was covered with a short grass, that seemed to be relished by the cattle and horses which were grazing upon different parts of it. The cattle seemed in good order, but the horses and a few mules looked shabby and rather thin, as if they did not receive the same benefit as the other stock from the grazing.

The soil was almost black, and with the use of the plough might yield other grasses; or it might prove productive if planted in corn or peas. Yet this experiment has yet to be made, and is certainly attended with much doubt.

This campo largo is separated from the other land, that lies more irregular in its conformation, by a stream of water, such as we would style a creek. On the other side of this the land ascends into a range of mountain elevations, whose sides can only be cultivated with great difficulty by the hoe. Upon these slopes the land is of a dark gray aspect, corresponding more to the appearance of some of the up-country lands in South Carolina than any I have seen here.

The houses composing the site of this fazenda are located at the foot of this range of elevated land, and in a central position as to the territory. There is a good dwelling, of moderate size, having a plank floor, glass windows, and a tile roof. The outhouses are inferior in quality, yet capacious, and meet the needs of the establishment. A monjolo is worked by water, brought in a race from the stream spoken of, and there is an old apparatus formerly used for grinding mandioca, which is now out of order, but might be turned to practical account.

After a plain, substantial dinner, the examination of the lands was resumed, and we visited two sites where families were located, but the positions were not well suited for dwellings. Indeed, there are no good situations for the residence of families anywhere on the place, as the chief location is almost inaccessible from the irregularity of the ground. An abandoned coffee-patch lies near the house.

The quality of most of the land is inferior, and unfavorably located for cultivation with a plough; and I felt satisfied at sight that this place was not adapted for our purposes. Being very tired I declined eating any thing for supper, and retired to my quarters, where I found a very comfortable bed arranged with musqueto-netting. The single bed, corresponding very much in proportion to our hospital bunks, is the most frequent in this country; and it is very rare that a large double bed is found, except for family use where there are children.

There is one view of this fazenda which might be worthy of attention, and though evidently unsuited to the location of a number of families, there is a large extent of territory which is well adapted to grazing, and a cattle range can be extended to public lands lying adjacent. There is a considerable portion of elevated campo land, independent of the level plain described as lowland, which would doubtless suit very well for sheep and goats, as some of it is quite rugged, and has clumps of trees, which would serve as places of retreat in the heat of the day. Any one who would desire to combine stock-raising with a farming business, might do it here advantageously; and from the proximity to the market of São Paulo, there would be a ready disposition of all that could be grown.

Thursday, November 23, 1865.

A nephew of Senor Bento, who resides upon the Fazenda Bananal, joined me this morning in riding across the mountain, to take a survey of the forest land lying upon the slope and crest of this elevation. I saw a few places in which corn was growing very satisfactorily, and after reaching the top of the ridge, found a portion of the ground whose configuration was more favorable for cultivation, though most of it lay quite irregularly.

There was nothing worthy of further notice save a most beautiful lake, far above the surrounding country, enclosed by hillocks, and having a dense forest lying upon one side. It is fed by a number of small rills, and perhaps also by internal springs, while there is but one outlet, forming a large stream, which has a most picturesque cascade at a short distance from the lake. This placid lake, which is known as “tanque grande,” with the bold stream leading from it into the forest, and then dashing down a rocky gorge, presents the most attractive feature of this fazenda. The lake is said to be very deep, and contains a large number of excellent fish. It might become very profitable as a place for the culture of fish, to supply the market of São Paulo, as the outlet could be so guarded by an iron grating, or a network of sipo, as to prevent the escape of even small fish over the fall, and the fish could be caught with the hook or other modes of capture on a larger scale.

If the gentlemen and ladies of the city should desire recreation, they could find no more pleasant resort than this lago bonneto upon the mountain top, and close the day with a fish-fry in the adjoining grove.

This attractive spot is evidently not appreciated as a specimen of the beauties of natural scenery, and few, perhaps, excepting those rude and unlettered inhabitants of this mountain region, know of its existence. Should a traveller in Switzerland encounter such a rare combination of beauties as is presented here, it would be sketched with the greatest interest, and portrayed in the most enthusiastic terms by the lover of nature. It is a quiet, clear sheet of water, about three hundred yards in length, and about two hundred yards in width, with the outlet as stated, running into a dense forest. The lands around it have been cleared up for cultivation, and run down with a gentle slope on all sides to the margin. The vandal hand which cut away the primeval growth around this lovely spot should be held responsible for constructing a terraced walk around it, and beautifying it with the choicest flowers and evergreens, so as to compensate for the loss it has sustained in removing the grove.

Though I could not praise the soil, I expatiated in all the variety of terms my vocabulary would afford, upon this exquisite water-scene, yet my matter-of-fact companion met my eulogy by the grave and business-like interrogation, whether I was sufficiently pleased with my examination to buy the fazenda, to which I was forced to give a negative reply.

As I returned to the city with Senor Bento, we stopped at the house of his brother, Senor Bonifacio, at the Fraguezia Conceicão, and there enjoyed a bait of jaboticabas from the trees that grew in a field near by. While in the house, a servant was ordered to do something in which café and laranga (meaning coffee and orange) was heard, and supposing these articles were being ordered for us, I excused myself from taking coffee in the best Portuguese available, when lo, it turned out that the words simply referred to securing our horses in the grove near the trees of the above name. Thus it is that an imperfect knowledge of language gets one into difficulties on every hand.

The sun being very hot, I was kindly supplied with an umbrella by a gentleman who joined us in the ride from this place to the city, and though he was thus left unprotected, there was no alternative but to accept it. These people are frequently very self-sacrificing in their courtesies to others, and though it has been said to me that their civilities are only the outward show of politeness, I must say to their credit, that nowhere can there be found more of the reality of accommodation, and hearty readiness in rendering any required aid, than among the people of this province.

Upon reaching São Paulo, I found that our baggage had been sent to the office of the diligence to be forwarded to Santos, and tickets were secured for us to proceed to-morrow morning.

Friday, November 24, 1865.

At a late hour last night, one of General Wood’s party, Mr. W. C. Kernan, reached the hotel Europa from Ybicaba, where he had been left sick. He accompanied me this morning to the diligence station, and upon my statement that Mr. Street would arrange for his passage, a seat was procured for him.

I found upon entering the diligence that Dom Pinto, Junr., was a passenger, and he introduced me to Mrs. Burton, the wife of the British Consul at Santos. She requested me to take charge of her on the trip, which was done, and upon arrival a servant was engaged to carry her baggage to the hotel, but my proffer of attendance was declined, as she said that she desired to give her husband a little surprise, and would prefer to go up alone.

She remarked that Captain Burton would be happy to see me at any time, when I replied that it would afford me pleasure to meet him if he should find it convenient to call upon me.

Our passage in the diligence was made in the shortest possible time, over the smooth road, to the top of the serra, but a tedious descent was caused by some derangement of the stop-block attached to the wheel of the diligence, and we had rather a slow boat from Cubitão to the city of Santos, where we arrived at 2 o’clock P. M.

After proceeding a short distance from the landing, I met a young man employed in the store of Mr. W. J. Wright, and accompanied him to the office, where I found the same cordial greeting and tender of hospitality which had met me in passing here previously. His intelligent and dignified lady subsequently received me with much kindness also.

Their two interesting little boys, Billy and Henry, recollected my former visit, and seemed likewise to welcome my return, so that I really felt very much at ease in my social relations to this pleasant family. After dinner we walked out, together with the children, to a cool fountain a short distance from the residence, and there enjoyed a sociable conversation, sitting upon the green sward.

I accepted the invitation of Mr. Wright to accompany him and Mrs. Wright to the theatre at night, to hear the bell-ringers and tumbler melodists. An intelligent young Brazilian gentleman, Dom Augusto T. Coimbra, went with us from the house, but I soon found that there was another attraction in the building for him more potent than the skill of the performers.

After entering the box with Mr. and Mrs. Wright, I bowed to General Wood, who was in the pit with the rest of the party, and upon his rising and bowing to me, he was invited by Mr. Wright to come into the box.

He came, accompanied by Mr. De Vi Valdi, United States consul at this port, who not being in good odor with my friend, Wright, was not presented to me, and after a short time he requested General Wood to introduce him. After the first performance, they returned to the seat with Dom Pinto, Junr., the General and his party being his guests for the evening.

The success of the bell-ringing was complete, and I was particularly impressed with the execution of a piece called Orpheus. But I did not find so much to admire in the musical tones of the friction upon the different glasses, though great skill and art were displayed by the operator.