From a Sketch by Duncan. Hullmandel & Walton Lithographers.
MODE OF EXECUTION AT DAHOMY. THE BLOOD DRINKER WAITING WITH HIS CALABASH TO DRINK THE BLOOD.

TRAVELS
IN WESTERN AFRICA,

1845 & 1846,

COMPRISING

A JOURNEY FROM WHYDAH, THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF DAHOMEY, TO ADOFOODIA, IN THE INTERIOR.

BY JOHN DUNCAN,
LATE OF THE FIRST LIFE GUARDS, AND ONE OF THE LATE NIGER EXPEDITION.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1847.

LONDON:
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME.

TRAVELS
IN
WESTERN AFRICA.

CHAPTER I.

The Zafidah Mountains—Zoogah—Reception by the Caboceer—Bamay—Its Market—Curiosity of the People—Population—The Davity Mountains—Daragow—Qualifications for a Caboceer—The River Zoa, or Lagos—Its wooded Banks—Ferry—Superstition—Water-lilies—The Plain set on Fire to destroy the Shea-butter Tree, &c.—Valley of Dimodicea-takoo—Kootokpway—Gbowelley Mountain—Romantic Scenery—Hospitable Reception—The Mahees—Their total Defeat by the Dahomans—Ascent of the Mountain—Ruins of a Town—Skeletons of the Slain—Soil—Twisted Rock—Mineral Springs—Agbowa—Herds of Cattle—Paweea, its healthy Situation—Palaver with the Caboceer—Description of him—His Hospitality—The Markets—Guinea Corn—Natives good Farmers—Cloth Manufacture—Native Loom—Hardware—Hyæna Trap—Admiration of my Sword—Review of native Soldiers—Population.

July 11th.—We marched from Setta at 8 A.M., the first high land bearing from the north side of the town N. 25° E., and named the Zafidah mountains, distant about twelve miles. These mountains form the western extremity of a range, running as far to the eastward as the eye can reach. The path led directly to these mountains, and the surrounding country was of a beautiful champaign character, studded at considerable intervals with trees of various descriptions.

About half a mile from Setta, and journeying N.E., we crossed a fine brook with a waterfall. The bed of the brook was of granite or quartz, in immense detached blocks, the brook running eastward. Close to this ford is a small kroom, called Zoogah; and although we had come so short a distance the old patriarch or caboceer had provided plenty of provisions for myself and private servants, with water and peto. The poor man also presented me with several fowls. He told me that the people of his small town had made a subscription and purchased these fowls to offer to me, but were ashamed to make so trifling a present, although they were anxious to show their good feeling towards the King’s white stranger. He had told them what I had said at Setta to the old woman (for he was present on that occasion) who presented me with the two eggs. The kindness shown towards me now formed a perfect contrast to that which I had experienced on the coast, where the character and disposition of the people are vile. I gave the caboceer some needles and thimbles, with directions to distribute them amongst his people.

At four miles from this place we arrived at a small kroom of about three hundred inhabitants, called Bamay. Here is a good market, which is held weekly: it happened to be held on this day. The caboceer was waiting in the market-place to receive us, in all his grandeur. Here we had plenty of good water and provisions. The caboceer seemed highly delighted at receiving a visit from a white man, and introduced me to all his head men and principal wives. The people assembled in the market-place all came running, pushing each other aside, with eager curiosity to obtain a sight of me. In the market, which is shaded with large trees, called by Europeans the umbrella-tree, they were selling cloth of the country, of various colours in stripe; kao (saltpetre in its original state) which is found in the mountains; different sorts of grain produced in the country; tobacco, and pipes made at Badagry, much resembling the head of the German pipe, but of red clay; shalots and vegetables of various sorts for soups, and also manioc or cassada-root ready cooked; with yams, plantains, and bananas, oranges, limes, pine-apples, cashu nuts, kolla or goora nuts, indigo and pepper; snuff is also sold here. Butcher’s meat is exposed for sale early in the morning, but if it be not sold quickly it is cooked in the market-place, to prevent putrefaction. Sheep and goats are sold in the market, but, singular enough, I never saw a live bullock in the market in any part of Africa, except at Tangiers. Fowls and eggs, and agricultural implements of various descriptions, are also sold in all the markets of any magnitude in this part of the country. Here the land is well cultivated, and the crops are very good.

This kroom contains about six hundred inhabitants, who are evidently of a different tribe to the people of Whydah. They are much better formed and more nimble, and apparently more capable of enduring fatigue than the natives on the coast. After distributing some small presents and some rum to the caboceer, we resumed our journey.

At ten miles distant, and bearing (magnetic) E.S.E. the Davity mountains are seen. These mountains form a range extending from east to west, for a distance of about twelve miles, and are separated by a narrow plain from another range of mountains, distant about two miles. Both ranges are of conical or hogback character. At the distance of four miles and a half we reached Daragow, a small kroom of about three hundred inhabitants. Here we were welcomed by the caboceer, whose name was Badykpwa, a fine stout old man of about fifty-five years of age.

The necessary qualifications for a caboceer in nearly all the kingdoms and petty states of Western and Central Africa, are, that he should be tall and stout; a beard is also indispensable. In many African kingdoms, indeed, rank is estimated by the length and thickness of the beard.

At six miles we reached the banks of the river Zoa, here forty yards wide and seven feet deep. It is very muddy, for it is now the rainy season. Large blocks of granite rise above the surface; the bed of the river consists of a drab-coloured sand. The current is about two miles per hour, running (magnetic) E.S.E. The banks are thirty feet deep, and wooded on each bank with trees of gigantic size, whose enormous roots extend in all directions. The greater number of these roots run along the surface, in most cases crossing and re-crossing each other, presenting the appearance of network. Their trunks are buttressed all round, somewhat like the cotton-tree. At about eight feet from the ground the buttresses, which so far are straight, break off in different directions, crossing each other around the trunk, like a number of large serpents wattled across each other. I did not observe any trees of the same description at a distance from the rivers.

At this ferry we found a large canoe, which is left here for the use of passengers. By order of the king of Dahomey, all traders carrying goods are exempt from paying fees for crossing. Here we were detained for some time, the canoe not being capable of conveying more than ten persons without luggage at a time. I remained till all the party had been ferried over, except the caboceer, or captain, and the other principal officers of my suite. When we embarked, the captain begged me to sit in the bottom of the canoe with my face towards the stern, so that in crossing I was conveyed backwards. When I remonstrated with him on the absurdity of doing so, he declared it to be “bad fetish” for any great man in crossing water to look in the direction he is proceeding, assuring me also that he was answerable for my safety, and that should anything of an unpleasant nature happen to me he should be severely punished, or if any thing should occur to my personal injury he should lose his head. When I found the poor fellow, who was under these restrictions, felt distressed at the observations I had made, I readily assented to all his instructions and directions. My little horse swam across, tied to the canoe, which materially assisted us in getting it across.

This river is the same as the river Lagos at Badagry on the coast, although here called the Zoa; but the same thing occurs all over Africa where I have yet been. I am also informed that this same river has two other distinct names, between this place and the place where it takes the name of Lagos, which fully accounts for many supposed errors of our travellers, as well as many errors in fact.

Our party having now all safely crossed the river, we immediately resumed our journey amongst thickets of underwood scarcely passable, the bushes having closed in and across the path, and joined over the narrow sheep-track for such it really was. After travelling half a mile, the path became more open, and we suddenly came upon a small lake or pond, apparently of stagnant water, with the delicate water-lily sprinkled over its surface. The sight of these beautiful flowers, coming upon us so unexpectedly, created a very pleasing sensation, for they were exactly the same as the water-lily of England.

The country now opened, and the path, clear of bush, became less irksome to the traveller. I observed here that the grass had been recently burnt, and inquiring of my guide the reason of it, was informed that the whole surface was set on fire twice annually, to the extent of many square miles. This is done for the double purpose of destroying the reptiles and insects, as well as the decayed vegetable, and also to annihilate the vegetative powers of the shea butter-tree, which grows here in great abundance. At seven miles the path changed its direction to the eastward. The land was level, but exhibited no cultivation, nor any appearance of human habitation. At eight miles and a half a valley opened upon us on a gentle slope, with a brook running to the eastward.

At ten miles we crossed another valley of greater depth, called by my guide, Dimodicea-takoo. On each side of the path were numerous aloes of various descriptions. The aloes which have a mark on the leaves like a partridge’s wing, were at this time in seed. My servant Maurice now begun to complain very much of pain in his head and loins, and seemed quite exhausted, although he had ridden my horse ever since I had crossed the Zoa.

At twelve miles and a half we crossed another valley and brook, running eastward, named Kootokpway. At thirteen miles and a half we reached a stupendous mountain, called Gbowelley. Here the path suddenly changed to NN.W., passing near to the base of the mountain, which forms the western extremity of a range of less magnitude than this. At its foot, and at its western extremity, is a small kroom, of about two hundred inhabitants. It is very pleasantly situated on the plain or division between Gbowelley and another chain, or rather crescent of mountains, at a few miles farther to the westward, commanding a view of high mountains to the northward. This sudden and delightful change seemed to inspire all of us with fresh animation and spirits; for though we had passed over several tracts of country partaking somewhat of the character of hills, we were now almost on a sudden directly amidst a number of stupendous mountains of great magnitude and singularity of character, at once romantic and pleasing. The old caboceer was warned of our approach by the noise of our drums, and was close to the path awaiting our arrival with plenty of kankie, water, and peto for our refreshment, which were very acceptable to all of us: for my own part, I felt quite prepared for a hearty meal, without scrutinizing it. Here the air felt refreshing and pure, and rushed in a current between the mountains.

The old caboceer was of commanding figure, about five feet ten inches in height, of pleasing countenance, and of quick and intelligent manner. He was a native of Dahomey, and in great confidence with the King. He took pleasure in boasting that he had seen me at Dahomey during the custom or holiday, having been invited to the latter place purposely to receive orders from his Majesty respecting my treatment when I should arrive in the Mahee country. He had despatched orderlies to every town occupied by a caboceer, to deliver the King’s orders respecting me. It was now that my suppositions were realized respecting the kindness shown me on my journey, viz. that the King had given orders as to every particular, however trifling, respecting my treatment and the presents I was to receive. The caboceer is named Hah, and the old man was sent here from Dahomey at the time of its surrender to the Dahomans.

The inhabitants of these mountains are called Mahees, and occupy part of the country of that name. They made a determined resistance against the Dahomans, and held out for seven moons, or months, having possession of the mountains, and concealing themselves in the fissures and caves, advancing and retreating in turn according to circumstances. Though their numbers were great, yet the caution and skill of their besiegers prevailed; for they had the advantage of good firearms, and were able to avail themselves of the crops and cattle on the plains at the base of the mountains. The Dahomans always choose the harvest season for besieging a mountain; and although the steepness of these mountains renders the ascent of a besieging army impossible, they can so entirely blockade the occupants from all communication with the plain, as soon either to starve them to death, or compel them to surrender to their enemies, at discretion.

These mountaineers never think of reserving any of their corn or other produce as stores, so that they invariably become an easy prey, though in this country they can raise four crops in the year. The Mahees use the bow and arrow, the King of Dahomey forbidding the transport of firearms through his kingdom from the coast. The old caboceer and my guide both informed me, that, during the seven months’ war in Gbowelley and the neighbouring mountains to the eastward, four hundred caboceers were killed, so that, allowing only a proportion of one hundred individuals to each caboceer, at least forty thousand men must have perished.

After a great deal of remonstrance and persuasion with the caboceer and my captain, a promise was given that I should be allowed to examine the mountain, but upon condition that I would take my shoes off, so that I should incur less risk in climbing up the steep fissures, which are not wide enough to admit of more than one man in width. The old caboceer took the lead in ascending, giving me his hand the whole of the way up; and my own caboceer kept close behind me, fearing lest I might slip. In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures, with scarcely any soil to support them. Monkeys were very numerous amongst the branches.

After gaining the top, in a sort of hollow or basin, on one side of the dome-shaped summit, were the remains apparently of a large town. This place was truly the picture of desolation, and the ravages of war and famine presented themselves on all sides. Hundreds of human skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls of sheep, goats, and oxen. No doubt the latter named animals had been used as food by the people whose remains we saw around us, the greater part of whom had been starved to death rather than surrender. Many of the soldiers of my guard had been on service during this siege, and described the scene on ascending as of the most awful description. The bodies of the dead in a putrid state were, it appears, mixed with those who were still alive, but unable to move; many were wounded with bullets, whose limbs were rotting off and covered with vermin;[1] and the air was so pestiferous, that many of the Dahomans died from its effects. The vultures tore the bodies of the poor wounded people, even while they were yet alive. In many of the small fissures I observed the remains of various domestic quadrupeds, together with human bones, very probably carried there by the vulture or eagle, also natives of this mountain, as well as the common fox, the panther, and large hyæna, or patakoo, the name given to it by the natives.

This mountain is formed by horizontal beds about forty feet deep, composed of gneiss or granite, each bed differing in quality from another in the proportions of feltspar and mica. It rises at an angle of 23°. All the mountains in this neighbourhood rise abruptly, and are very steep,—in fact, on some sides, they are nearly perpendicular, the plain in most cases being truly level to the very base of the mountains.

After descending, and returning to the place where I left my party refreshing themselves, I found many of them in a partial state of intoxication, from too freely indulging in the use of the peto. My poor man Maurice, induced by a high state of fever, had attempted to allay his thirst by copiously partaking of the same liquor. After giving some small presents to the caboceer and principal people, we resumed our journey. Just as we began our march, the rain descended in torrents. Fortunately, while at Whydah, I had made myself a waterproof cloak, which I now gave to my poor white man, who seemed a little revived after his rest and the stimulating effects of the peto. He proposed walking; but I knew that his revival was only temporary, and compelled him to ride.

The path was now very deeply worn with the heavy rains, a stream pouring down and washing all the soil from amongst the stones, leaving only the iron stone or ore, which rendered walking very unpleasant. The country was level, with the exception of a gentle declivity in the direction in which we were now proceeding (NN.W.). The plain at intervals was studded with large and small blocks of granite, some round, others angular, but the foundation chiefly iron, which I have observed in many places, only covered with a thin surface of vegetable soil of a loamy nature. The surface of the iron is quite smooth, and resembles our pavement of asphalte in London. In some places the iron rock is entirely bare, and has every appearance of having run to its own level while in a state of fusion.

The soil now changed to a rich sand and clay, very productive. I observed some fine specimens of the twisted rock, but without any mica in its composition, being more compact and solid than the composition of the last-named mountain, and of a similar character to marble, of blue, black, and white mixture. Here we were again met by the caboceer and a number of his people, belonging to a small kroom at some considerable distance from the path. They brought us plenty of kankie and peto. We again stopped for some time, and made inquiry respecting the neighbourhood, but I invariably found it impossible to obtain any information respecting any other locality than their own immediate vicinity, unless from some of the travelling merchants. After giving a small present, which is always necessary on such occasions, we resumed our journey. Close to the path were several mineral springs, powerfully impregnated with iron. These springs are permanent. This country is beautifully watered, having a great many springs of various qualities, and numerous small brooks.

The rains are more regular here than near the coast, and thunder is much less frequent. No doubt the extreme fertility of the soil in this locality is attributable to the good supply of water from the regular rains and springs, for four crops of corn I was told are obtained in one year.

At nineteen miles and a half, bearing or direction of the path, we changed to east, and crossed the brook Halee, which runs eastward, with water sufficient to propel machinery of any ordinary power. At twenty miles and a half, Mount Weesee, bearing west, and Lusee to the east. At twenty-one miles we came upon a brook called Agbowa, with abundance of water. Here the land is well cultivated. This is the first place in Africa where I have observed the use of manure in agriculture. Some Guinea corn, which is planted in drill, measured ten feet in height, the maize about eight feet. Here are large herds of very fine cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs; the Guinea fowl and common domestic fowl, as well as partridges of great size, are also abundant. The turtle-dove abounds here, as in most other places in the vicinity of towns and villages.

At twenty-one miles and a half we arrived at Paweea, a very large town, composed chiefly of low square huts, very neat and clean, with several large markets. At the entrance of the town we were met by the caboceer and his soldiers, part of whom were armed with muskets, and accoutred in the same manner as my own guard; the rest were armed with the bow and arrow. Paweea is well situated, and commands a view of the surrounding country to a great distance. The atmosphere is much clearer here than on the coast, or even at Abomey, so that the surrounding mountains are very distinctly observable, and minor objects perfectly seen at a very considerable distance, in comparison with the coast.

The caboceer, and his principal attendants and men of office, led us into the principal market-place within the walls, which is held under several large trees, covering about three quarters of an acre. Here we seated ourselves, and the usual complimentary palaver of welcoming the King’s stranger to the town of Paweea followed, and a large calabash of water was offered to me, after it had been tasted. Then the rum was passed round amongst all my people. After this indispensable ceremony was concluded, we were directed to my lodgings, which were not far distant.

The houses here are superior to those of many other towns, consequently I had comfortable quarters for myself and people. The caboceer was a fine, stout, square-built man, and very agreeable both in person and manner, but with a very singularly-formed head above the temples, narrowing acutely to the upper part of the skull. This gave his head the appearance of having been squeezed or pressed. He seemed, however, possessed of more than the ordinary sense of his countrymen, and appeared to be in every way anxious to accommodate and please us. Plenty of excellent provisions were soon brought to my apartments for myself and people.

After we had finished our meal, the caboceer and several of the principal members of his retinue came to spend an hour with us. Upon this occasion I ordered some rum to be unpacked and distributed amongst them. I was much gratified to find the caboceer enter so fully into conversation, and make so many shrewd inquiries respecting England, our manufactures and laws. He also seemed very communicative, and willing to give me every information in his power respecting his own country. He had been in command during the late war, and had of course travelled a considerable distance beyond his own locality.

In this town peto is made entirely from the Guinea corn, not as on the coast, from the maize or Indian corn. It is a very agreeable liquor, and less sweet than that made from the Indian corn. After conversing about two hours, the caboceer withdrew, to allow me to repose, which was very agreeable to me, for I was very tired.

July 12th.—Early in the morning a messenger arrived from the caboceer with his cane, which he presented to me with his master’s compliments, desiring to know if I were quite well, and how I slept. Soon after the messenger had left me, the caboceer came, preceding his commissariat train, with an immense quantity of provision in large and small calabashes, containing beef, pork, mutton, fowl, kankie, dabadab, and a delicious dish made from a vegetable called occro, which when boiled forms a gelatinous substance, and is very strengthening. This dish is seasoned with palm oil and pepper. The provisions in all amounted to twenty bushels. The good old caboceer of Gbowelley, whom we left yesterday, sent some of his people after us this morning with a present of one goat, three fowls, and a large calabash of kankie. This was an acknowledgment for some presents, which I had given to him when I left him. The carriers and messengers were quite delighted when I presented each of them with some needles and thimbles, and returned home rejoicing.

After breakfast, the caboceer wished me to walk round his town with him—seeming anxious to gratify his people with a glimpse or sight of the King’s stranger. This was just what I wished, as I was anxious to acquire as much information as possible during the short time I had to spare. Accordingly we visited the markets, which were well supplied with provisions and articles of manufacture. I noticed amongst other things some English chequered handkerchiefs. Native cloth, of various quality and colours, was exposed for sale. Kaom, or saltpetre, is very abundant in the Kong mountains, and is sold in the markets in all the towns in the vicinity. It is used as medicine, and, as in England, is much in requisition for cattle. Deer skins of various species are sold in the market, also nuts of various sorts, as well as different kinds of beans and peas. Ginger is very abundant in this neighbourhood, and is sold at about eight-pence per Winchester bushel. The corn is now nearly ripe, and some of the Guinea corn is as much as ten feet high, so that the town is entirely concealed until the fence, which invariably encloses the African towns on the plain, is passed. The prickly bush at Abomey is planted like a double hedge round the town, and is about ten yards wide, so that to a European it would seem a matter of impossibility ever to break through it. The female soldiers of Dahomey, however, as I have already mentioned, are capable of taking one of these towns with apparently little trouble.

The owners of the numerous herds of cattle keep them in folds or pens in the town, and the dung is preserved for manure. They are excellent farmers, even in this remote part, where they never can have had intercourse with any civilized being. They also manufacture very good cloth, although their method is certainly tedious, the thread being spun by the distaff, and their loom being of a very simple construction, though upon the same principle as our linen looms in England. Their web is necessarily narrow, not exceeding six inches. As they have not yet found out the use of the shuttle, they merely hand the reel through the shade from one side to the other in putting in the weft; and instead of treadles to set the foot upon, they use two loops, which are suspended from the treadles, into which they put their big toes, which act upon the same principle as the treadle. The warp is not rolled round a beam, as in our looms, but kept at its extreme length, and the farther end is made fast to a large stone or heavy substance, which is gradually drawn towards the weaver as he progresses in his work.

Iron is very good in this neighbourhood, and is worked with considerable skill. Their implements for agricultural purposes are much superior to those manufactured nearer the coast. Sweet potatoes, yams, and manioc or cassada, are cultivated here with great success.

The different articles sold in the market are nearly the same as I have already mentioned at Whydah. I was amused upon being shown a patakoo or large hyæna trap, from the simplicity of its construction. It is about twenty feet long and two feet broad. The walls are thick and strong. The trap is constructed upon the same principle as some of those used in England for catching various sorts of vermin without destroying or injuring them. A goat or young kid is placed in a cage in the trap, at the farthest extremity from the entrance, and the hyæna, or panther, (whichever may happen to pass,) is attracted by the bleating of the kid. Upon entering the trap, it must step on a board with a string attached, the other end of which is connected with a trigger which suspends a sliding door. Upon the trigger being pulled, the sliding door immediately drops and incloses the animal. It is then sometimes maimed or baited with dogs.

Dinner-time had now arrived, and we returned to our quarters, when it was soon afterwards brought in, and consisted of one large hog, three goats, sixteen fowls, and a fine bullock, all which were served up in excellent style, with plenty of dabadab and kankie, and round balls of cakes made with meal and palm oil, baked or roasted together with abundance of peto.

After dinner, the caboceer expressed a desire to see me in uniform, and wished also that the ceremony of receiving me on entering his town should be repeated as the King’s stranger, similar to my reception on the previous evening. This requisition was not very agreeable to me, as my white man Maurice was still very ill and in low spirits. However, I prepared myself soon after dinner, and mounted my little charger. The caboceer examined my horse and accoutrements very minutely, as also my appointments. My sword, large knife, as they called it, excited much admiration from its brightness, and above all, for its pliability in bending and again resuming its original form. Their short swords are made of iron, but have no spring in them. He next examined my double-barrelled gun, and seemed much astonished at the percussion caps, believing that the cap alone was also the charge, no doubt from its loud report. After explaining it to him, he seemed much gratified.

We then proceeded out of the town, one half of my guard in front, and the other in my rear, with the caboceer’s soldiers in rear of the whole, one half of whom were armed with bows and arrows. After proceeding about half a mile from the town into an open piece of ground not planted with corn, the soldiers commenced a review and sham fight, which, although it did not display any great complication of manœuvres, was interesting from the quickness of their motions, and significant gestures.

After the review was over, we returned to the market-place, when all my soldiers commenced dancing. This was kept up alternately by my guard, and the soldiers belonging to the town. In this country each caboceer invariably keeps a clown or jester, many of whom are clever and amusing on account of their ready wit. After the dance, which lasted about two hours, I gave each of the party some rum, which is always expected on such occasions. I then retired to my quarters, accompanied by the caboceer, who seemed very anxious to maintain a friendly conversation, evidently with a view to obtain information on general topics. He remained till a late hour, when he retired to his home, leaving me once more to enjoy my own reflections upon what I had seen, and to take notes for my Journal.

The town of Paweea contains about sixteen thousand inhabitants. They seem rather an industrious race in comparison with those near the coast. Here, as well as in most other towns in the neighbourhood, the mechanic is very much esteemed on account of his craft, but especially the blacksmith, who in their own language is called a cunning man, ranking next to the fetish-man or priest. The soil round this place is a rich sandy loam, and the land well watered, consequently, the crops are abundant, and the people are in the enjoyment of plenty, with but little labour. They seem a very happy race, and well satisfied with their present government and laws, which, previous to their subjection to the King of Dahomey, were arbitrary and cruel in the extreme. This town has two strong gates on the south-east and north-west sides, which are closed at sunset, and guarded by soldiers or watchmen, who take that duty in turn.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] This may appear an exaggeration, but I assure my readers, that I have had a large quantity taken from a very severe wound I received when in the Niger expedition. Dr. Williams and Dr. Thompson can corroborate my assertion. The African fly blows live maggots instead of eggs.

CHAPTER II.

The Caboceer’s Kindness to my Servant—Presents—Names of Caboceer, &c.—Granite Mountains—Tanks—The Aditay—Soil—The Tawee—Mountains—Grain and Vegetables—The Zoglogbo Mountain—Reception by the Caboceer of Zoglogbo—Ascent of the Mountain—Cotton-trees—Mountain-pass—Singular Situation of the Town—Houses—Dahoman Political Agent—Probable Origin of the Mountain—Kpaloko Mountain—Ignorance, assumed or real, of the Neighbouring Country by the Natives—The Dabadab Mountains—Superstition—Singular Method of conveying Cattle—Cruelty to the Brute Creation—Difficult Descent—Agriculture and Manufactures—Height of the Mountains—Death of Three Kings at Zoglogbo—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Reception at Baffo—Costume of Caboceer and his Wife—His Principal Wives—Beautiful Birds—Gigantic Trees—Parasitical Plants—Singular Tree—Soil—Grain, Fruits, &c.—Cattle—Market-day, and Bustle of the Caboceer—Goods exposed for Sale—Rival Caboceers—Game—Pigeon-trap—Trial of Skill—Dog poisoned—Increasing Illness of my Servant—The Caboceer’s principal Cook.

Sunday, July 13th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again sent me plenty of provisions for myself and people, and showed great kindness to Maurice, my white servant, using every means to induce him to partake of some food, bringing amongst other dishes one made of meal and water boiled together, sweetened with honey, and about the consistence of thin gruel. This composition is used as we do tea in England, but is of course much more substantial. I relished it very much. My poor servant also partook of a considerable portion, but he could not rally, having lost all the courage of which he had so often boasted. The caboceer then desired us to proceed again to the market-place, where we found two fine bullocks tied to a tree; one was a present to the King of Dahomey, and the other to myself.

After going through the usual compliments on either side, we marched on our journey till we came to the gates on the north-east of the town, where several of the principal officers of the staff of the caboceer’s household approached him, apparently in great anxiety, whispering something to the caboceer. After this, the captain of my guard communicated to me that the caboceer of Paweea begged that I would honour himself and head men so far, as to enter their names in my book. This is, in all places in the Dahoman kingdom, considered the highest honour that can possibly be conferred upon them. To this request I readily acceded; and in a short time had all their names registered in my fetish-book, as they called it. After entering the names, as given by the caboceer’s principal officer, I was very shrewdly asked to call each individual by their name, as this was considered a puzzler for me; but when they found that I called the roll correctly, they all seemed surprised and delighted. A report to the same effect soon spread over the greater part of the Mahee country. We now took our final departure from the town of Paweea.

I here record the names of the head men according to my Journal:—

The names of Mayho’s traders from Abomey, who treated myself and people with provisions and peto at Paweea[3] were:—

Tossau.
Yakie.
Bowka.
Adassie.
Howta.
Kossau.
Nookodoo.

We now passed through the gate, which is very strong. The walls of the town are very thick, and are composed of reddish-coloured clay. Close to the gates is the weekly market-place, held under several large trees, which afford a grateful shade from the sun, as well as a temporary protection from the rain. In the whole of the Mahee country which I have yet visited, I find that the weekly markets are held without the walls, to prevent as much as possible strangers entering the town. The daily markets are seldom attended by any except their own people, principally for a mutual exchange of goods of native manufacture.

About nine A.M. we recommenced our journey, the path bearing N.E., and at one mile N. 35° E. I noticed the chain of mountains running N.E. and S.W., distant about four miles, and bearing north from Paweea. The country round, however, is level, and studded with palm and other trees. In the distance, the immense blocks of granite appeared stratified, or divided into perpendicular sections, but upon a nearer approach were found to be only marks left by the running down of the water which accumulates in naturally formed basins or tanks on the tops, apparently formed by the heavy rains acting powerfully on the softer parts of the rock. From the excessive heat, this water soon becomes foul, and the first succeeding rains cause an overflow, marking the rock in dark streaks, and giving it the appearance I have stated.

At a mile and a half, bearing north, the soil became gravelly, studded with trees. At two miles and a half, bearing again north, we crossed the brook Aditay, running eastward, over a rocky bottom of blue granite. This beautiful clear stream is, on an average, during the season only two feet deep and six wide. It is a permanent stream, capable of propelling machinery. At three miles and a half, the bearing changed to E. N. E., with clear springs, impregnated with iron. The temperature was 64° Fahrenheit. The land is still level, and the soil of the dark colour of decayed vegetation. At five miles we crossed the river Tawee, running east. This river is wider than the last, with a gravelly bed; current less rapid, but also capable of turning machinery.

At seven miles I observed two mountains of considerable magnitude, and very picturesque, distant from the path two miles, and bearing N. 35° W. The land is beautifully cultivated along the foot of the mountains. The drilling system is followed here with the corn, both in the Dahoman and Mahee countries, and with all sorts of grain, as well as with the sweet potato; but yams are planted in mounds about three feet in height, of a conical form. In this part, however, the yams are inferior generally to those grown on the coast, being what are called water-yams, which are much softer than those found near Whydah. Four different sorts of maize, or Indian corn, are grown here, the smallest of which produces four crops in twelve months. The Guinea corn is also very abundant, as well as another grain which grows about the same height. This grain very much resembles mustard-seed.

At ten miles, we arrived at the foot of the mountain of Zoglogbo, a splendid specimen, although not more than eighteen hundred feet high on the south-east side. We halted at a small kroom at its foot, in the market-place, where I changed my dress at the desire of the captain of my guard, and put on my regimentals to receive the caboceer of Zoglogbo. I had scarcely finished, when he arrived with his retinue. He is a remarkably fine old man, apparently about sixty years of age, and of a very venerable appearance. He is nearly six feet high, and altogether of a noble and graceful figure. He approached within about five yards of the place where I was seated, by the side of the caboceer or captain of my guard, when, before speaking a word, he, together with his head men and attendants, prostrated themselves, throwing dust on their heads, and rubbing their arms with the same. My own caboceer next prostrated himself, going through similar forms of humility. Both parties afterwards remained on their knees, and delivered the King’s message respecting the King’s stranger, as they constantly called me. We then drank water with each other, previous to the introduction of rum, of which our new and venerable friend Kpatchie seemed very fond.

We now proceeded to ascend the mountain by a narrow fissure or fracture nearly perpendicular, passing in our ascent many very large cotton-trees, dispersed irregularly in the different crevices of the rock. Numbers of large monkeys of different species were playing amongst the boughs, but they were rather wild, being hunted for their flesh, which is used here for food. The passage up the side of the mountain is so narrow, as only to admit of one man passing at a time, and very steep and difficult, on account of the many blocks of stone which impede the ascent. It would have been impossible for me to ascend with my shoes on, had not the old caboceer of the mountain walked in front and given me his hand, and another person pushed at my back, as occasion required.

After a somewhat toilsome though romantic journey, we arrived at the gates of the town, which were of very thick planks of seven inches, strongly barred with iron. After passing the gates the path was much easier and not so steep, from the fissure not being filled so high, so that the top of the fissure was far above the head, apparently above twenty yards. After passing a little distance farther we came upon the town, which is situated in a basin, or crater, formed in the centre of the top of the mountain. Round the outer edge of this immense basin are thrown tremendous blocks of various sizes, underneath which many houses are built. Although these blocks are placed on each other in such a tottering position, the houses in the centre of the town are erected with considerable taste and regularity. The residences of the principal merchants and influential members of the town are built in the form of squares or quadrangles, which are occupied by their wives, which are frequently very numerous, as well as their families. Their slaves also occupy a part of the buildings, and are treated as well as their own families. Indeed, as I have already observed, they work together in cultivating the fields, or any other domestic employment.

The caboceer led us to a tolerably good house with every necessary utensil for our use. Many presents of various descriptions were brought to me, the old caboceer seeming much pleased at the kindness of his people to the King’s stranger. His own kindness and attention were unbounded, as well as those of his principal attendant, a young man of rank from Dahomey, and the handsomest and most intelligent African I had ever met. The King of Dahomey displays great sagacity in sending Dahomans to the frontiers between the Mahees, Yarriba, and Fellattahs. These men, although acting as principal attendants to chiefs or caboceers of the subdued Mahees, are nothing more nor less than political spies, the upper rank of such persons preventing any combination or alliance dangerous to the power of the King of Dahomey, although generally the Mahees seem very much pleased with their present government and new laws.

After we had established ourselves in our quarters, we were supplied with plenty of peto and clean water to drink, and the caboceer sat down and enjoyed himself with us, often expressing his gratification at being visited by the King’s stranger. In a short time large quantities of provision were brought for us, and as usual ready cooked. Being rather hungry, we made a pretty hearty meal, and afterwards were again joined by the old caboceer, and several of the merchants or traders from Abomey, who presented me with a large quantity of peto.

It now commenced a very heavy rain, consequently we were obliged to content ourselves with remaining in the house, and conversing upon different topics respecting England and Africa. I found while conversing on the state and government of Dahomey, a certain backwardness in their replies, unless through my own caboceer. Whether this arose from a want of knowledge on the subject, or in compliance with orders given to refer such questions to the caboceer of my guard, I am unable to decide, but should suppose that this latter was the fact. During the evening the caboceer partook too much of the peto and rum, accompanied with large quantities of snuff, which he administered alternately to his mouth and nose. Several persons were admitted and introduced to me by him. My poor servant Maurice, although I had given him my horse the whole of the day’s journey, was now quite knocked up, and extremely low in spirits. After spending a tolerably comfortable evening my friends departed, and I went to rest for the night.

July 14th.—Early in the morning the caboceer again visited me, to pay me the customary morning compliment, and in about an hour after he had retired breakfast was sent ready cooked, as usual, for myself and soldiers. After breakfast we walked round the town, which is of great beauty. From the quantities of fused iron-stone thrown indiscriminately amongst the immense blocks of granite, it would appear that the centre of the mountain had at some remote period been thrown up by some volcanic irruption. Zoglogbo forms the N.E. extreme of a range of mountains running N.E. and S.W. and is the highest of that range. The grain of the granite is much larger than that of most of the rocks of the other mountains. On the north-eastern extremity, and on the top of the rock, are several tanks nearly filled with water, for it is now the rainy season. These tanks are formed by nature, and are found to be of great advantage, both for the people and the cattle, which, to my great surprise, I found in and about the town, though the ascent from the plain is so difficult, that I was obliged to leave my horse at the bottom at one of the towns. The fracture, extending entirely across the mountain, forms two passes, adjoining which is a town on each side. I found upon inquiry, that a cow and bull had been carried up into the mountain, and their offspring preserved, and that only very lately they had begun to kill them. The cattle live upon leaves and branches of different shrubs and stunted trees.

After examining the town we went to the highest pinnacle of Zoglogbo, where we obtained a very pleasant view of the surrounding country. At four miles distant, and bearing north-east, is seen the beautiful and gigantic block of granite, two thousand five hundred feet high, named Kpaloko; and as far as the eye can reach to the eastward are three mountains of a conical form, all of which are of the same shape and height. I asked the caboceer the name of these mountains, but he denied all knowledge of them, either by name or otherwise. I then asked several of my soldiers, from whom I received a similar reply. It seemed to me very singular, that a man should live during his whole life so near any remarkable spot without knowing something of the place, or even its name; but from a communication I received from a Mahomedan priest at Abomey, I was convinced that the distant mountains were the Dabadab Mountains, from the resemblance of their shape to a dumpling made from the Indian corn-meal so called. After measuring the height by the boiling-point thermometer, we descended the rock, which was quite smooth on the slope, so that it would be impossible for any person to keep his footing with shoes on. But my friend Kpatchie paid every attention to me, both during my ascent and descent, ordering one of his principal attendants to take one of my arms, while he himself took the other.

The people here are, like all other Africans, very superstitious. When I was taking the bearings of the different mountains, and measuring the distances, they seemed very uneasy, but as the King had given orders that I was to be permitted to use my own discretion in all things, it was useless to object to anything I thought proper to do. After descending this steep mountain, we visited the principal market-place, where the caboceer had ordered two fine bullocks to be brought; one of them I was to deliver to the King as a present, and the other was presented to myself; and the old caboceer forwarded both animals all the way to Abomey, to be there for me on my return. The manner in which they carry cattle is singular. They tie the feet of the animal together, and run a long palm pole between the legs, and thus carry the poor animals with their backs downwards, each end of the pole resting on the head of the carriers. Six men are generally appointed to carry one bullock, who relieve one another in turns. It would seem impossible, to those unacquainted with African cattle, for two men to carry one bullock; but it must be remembered that the African ox is very small in comparison with English oxen.

The natives have no sympathy or feeling for the lower animals. They throw the animal down when they get tired, with its back on the rough gravel, so that if they have a long journey to perform, the flesh is cut to the bone, and the death of the poor animal often ensues from such usage.

After we had received the presents from the caboceer, several of the merchants from Abomey presented me with goats and fowls, which kindness I of course acknowledged by making presents of some trifling articles of European manufacture. We now got ourselves ready for our march to the town of Baffo, which is only a few miles distant; my excellent old friend, Kpatchie, and his whole retinue, with a guard of honour, accompanying me.

Our descent was by the fissure on the opposite side of the mountain to that which we had ascended, and was equally difficult. However, my friend kept close to me, rendering me every requisite assistance in our perilous descent. At the foot of the mountain we entered another town of considerable size. Here I found my horse, which had been brought round to be in readiness for me. I remained some time in this town to ascertain their system of agriculture and their manufactures, which I found superior to any thing nearer the coast, except in Abomey and in Whydah. They consist of cloth, iron, knit nightcaps, mats, baskets, and a curious sort of girdle composed of different-coloured grasses, neatly fringed at each end, resembling the sashes worn by our infantry officers. All sorts of agricultural implements are also manufactured here in a superior style, as likewise earthen pots and pipes.

The northernmost of the four conical mountains I have mentioned measures from the top of Kpaloko 18° 7ʹ towards N.E. when the observer is placed on the N.E. end of Zoglogbo, and Kpaloko bears N.E., distant by observation from Zoglogbo 12°, and the back bearing of Gbowelley S.E. Zoglogbo is much famed in the Mahee country for having been the place of refuge for three moons of three kings, who led their combined armies to the plains of Paweea, where they were met by the Dahoman army, commanded by the King, who destroyed the whole of the combined armies of the kingdoms of Eyo, or Yarriba, and Annagoo, and a kingdom in the Mahee country in the adjoining Mountains of Kong.

These three kings declared war against the King of Dahomey, and threatened also to make his head a balance to a distaff; but the army of Dahomey, being well armed with muskets, although much inferior in numbers, totally destroyed the combined armies; and the three kings fled to Zoglogbo, where the Dahoman army followed them, and blockaded the passes, so that all supplies were entirely cut off, and in three moons the whole were compelled to surrender at discretion. These three kings were beheaded, and their heads used for a similar purpose to that which they had threatened the King of Dahomey with.

The head man of this town is Kpatchie’s principal attendant. Kpatchie is caboceer, or king, of all the towns and krooms in and round the mountain of Zoglogbo. The principal men’s names in Zoglogbo are as follows:—

1. Kpatchie.[4]
2. Bleedjado.
3. Annagoonoo.
4. Dawie.
5. Dyenyho.
6. Dosou say Footoh.
7. Zayso avarahoo.
8. Bayo Bozway.
9. Dogano.[5]
10. Mapossay.[6]
11. Awenoo.[7]
12. Bokava.
13. Dogwhay, the Caboceer’s wife.
14. Adoo, the Caboceer’s son.

12 P.M.—We now continued our march from this town to Baffo, bearing west from this place, and at three miles and a half arrived there. We were met about half way by the caboceer of Baffo and his principal wife, attended by a guard of honour, some of whom were armed with bows and arrows, and others with muskets, with which they kept up a constant irregular fire the whole of the way as we passed along. The caboceer and his wife were covered with ornaments, principally of cowries, fixed to leather, made of goatskin, and coloured blue and red, and about the width of the reins of a riding bridle, so that they were equipped similar to our Hussar officers’ horses. This caboceer is a very quick, active, and shrewd man; proud and foppish, moreover, and very jealous of my fine old friend, Kpatchie, who accompanied me to Baffo.

Shortly after our arrival in that town, we were, as usual, supplied with provision, ready cooked, to the amount of eighty dishes, composed of goats, pigs, and Guinea fowls. We were visited by the caboceer’s principal wives, who drank each a glass of rum with us. This is customary with all visitors of note or rank, but they always drink water with each other first. My old friend Kpatchie remained with me till he got intoxicated, when I advised him to return home, which recommendation he immediately adopted.

In the evening I went out to observe the neighbourhood of the town, taking my gun with me, when, just after passing through the gates, a crow flew over us, which I shot. This caused great amusement, as the natives of this place are not expert with the gun. The crows are very large here, but of the same colour as the smaller ones on the coast, black, with white breast. In this place I observed several beautiful birds, many of which were on their passage, for nearly all the tropical birds of Africa are migratory.

We visited another small town, about half a mile west of Baffo, very pleasantly situated at the foot of the steep mountain of Logbo, the rocks of which at a short distance appear to hang over the town. The town of Baffo is similarly situated, and is ornamented with a great variety of trees of gigantic size. The highest of these are the silk cotton-trees; sycamore and a species of ash are also abundant here. The acacias are very large, and at this season in full blossom. Many beautiful parasitical plants hang from the large trees and rocks; and the clematis and jessamine fill the air with their luxurious odour. A tree resembling the drooping ash is very abundant, bearing a very delicious fruit, like a yellow plum, which hang in bunches very similar to the grape. The fruit is very delicious, though there is very little flesh on the stone, which is porous, and yields to the bite of the teeth like a piece of cork, but is considerably harder.

This is the first place in which I have yet been, since my journey commenced, which reminds me of my native country. Here, for the first time the large branches of the different trees are in gentle motion, caused by the considerable current of air or light wind passing along the steep mountain-side, forming a very agreeable contrast to what is nearly always experienced in Central Africa, by the suffocating, heated atmosphere, where no motion is perceptible except during a tornado. I cannot express with what satisfaction and delight I sat me down on the end of a ruined wall of a hut, to embrace the luxury to which I had for many months been a stranger. Here solitude and loneliness even were pleasing. In my lonely reverie, my recollections were carried unimpeded over wastes of waters back to my native land, and perhaps to happier days, before Care had ploughed her furrows on my brow.

Here in this beautiful though lonely spot, I could not help thinking how much gratification I should have felt had any of my old friends and associates in England been present, to whom I might have expressed my gratification. My poor servant Maurice was now getting worse, and obliged to lie down immediately he arrived at Baffo.

I found the land well cultivated, and the crops very luxuriant. The Indian corn here produces a crop four times in the year; the Guinea corn, twice only. Fruits of various descriptions are also abundant; tamarinds of two different species, the velvet tamarind and long pod, both grow in abundance: the yellow fig, of excellent flavour, and green grapes are also plentiful. There are two species of cashu with fruit, much larger than I have seen on the coast. The kolla-nut is abundant here, as also several species of the under-ground nut, some about the size of a walnut.

Cattle are of a superior breed here, being very square and clean in the legs, but very small. Sheep and goats are considerably more numerous than nearer the coast, but no horses are bred in this part of the country, consequently the natives were very timid in approaching my animal. The country around is well watered by some considerable streams, which run eastward. The waters are of different qualities, some streams being impregnated with iron, others with magnesia. Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys.

After two hours’ range in the neighbourhood of these two towns, I returned with my party and found the caboceer of the town awaiting us. He was, no doubt, anxious to taste again the contents of my liquor-case, which, unfortunately, was but scantily stored, as far as regards variety, but I had plenty of the common American trade rum, which I brought with me from the coast. This is the only drink used by the natives, excepting peto.

I gave the caboceer a good bumper or two, which he seemed to relish very much. He seemed extremely anxious to excel in politeness; but he assumed a little too much civility to reconcile me to him as an honest man. However, I spent the evening tolerably comfortable till a late hour, when we retired to rest. Maurice was still very ill, although the fever was subdued, but now diarrhœa succeeded, and his spirits were very low; I, therefore, made up my mind to remain a day or two till I should see whether any alteration took place in him.

July 15th.—Early in the morning the caboceer came to pay his morning compliments and to drink a glass of rum previous to sending me breakfast. The old man seemed all in a bustle, this being the principal market-day in Baffo; and he is allowed still to maintain an ancient custom, which existed here previous to the subjection of the Mahee country, of monopolizing the whole trade of the place to himself. In consequence of this, he was busily employed in watching his young wives, who kept stalls, or hawked their goods in the market-place, many of whom I believe possessed very little personal interest in their divided spouse’s profits, but, in order to render theft impracticable, he placed all his youngest wives in the most conspicuous parts of the market-place, and himself occupied a position which commanded a view of the whole scene. The older or more trustworthy wives were permitted to use their own discretion as to their choice of carrying their goods round the different parts of the town. The principal or favourite wives dole out the portions of goods allotted to each individual to sell, but it often occurs that they are sold at even a higher price than designed by the owner, particularly when strangers are the purchasers. Of course the extra charge is appropriated by the individual seller.

The articles sold in the market are much the same as those exposed for sale in Whydah, which I have previously enumerated, with the exception of European manufactured goods: these, however, are very limited, tobacco and rum being the principal articles. In addition to these, I only observed a few very common plaid cotton handkerchiefs. Good cloth is manufactured here, and sold in the market, but manufacture even seems to be monopolized by the caboceer of Baffo, for, on my treating with a weaver for the purchase of a piece of cloth, he was obliged to consult the caboceer whether he might dispose of it at the price I offered him, which, after some higgling, was agreed to. The whole of the inhabitants of this town are literally slaves, but live in peace and plenty ever since their subjection to the King of Dahomey.

About eleven o’clock, my friend, Kpatchie, and his young Dahoman attendant, came again to visit me, bringing with him about thirty persons, carrying provisions for myself and people. This act of kindness proceeded, undoubtedly, from his own generosity, independent of the order of the King. The old gentleman seemed delighted at having an opportunity of testifying his good feelings towards a white man, but this kindness on his part seemed to create a considerable degree of jealousy between the two caboceers, Agassadoo and Kpatchie, so much so that high words ensued.

Although no preparation was made for our dinner, for I had remained at Baffo one day longer than was expected by the King, I was amused with the contemptuous manner exhibited towards Agassadoo by my venerable friend. He begged me not to rely on any of his (Agassadoo’s) promises, as he was only a man of words, and of too much palaver to be good. This certainly was correct, but the wordy war soon terminated, Kpatchie being senior, and principal caboceer of the range of mountains on which Baffo is situated.

A reconciliation having been effected, I honoured them both by inviting them to dine with me, which was the first time I had ever done so since I had left Abomey. This seemed to give great satisfaction to both parties, and their differences seemed mutually forgotten. After dinner we went out shooting. I shot several birds of various descriptions on the top of the steep rock, which almost overhangs Baffo. I observed a great number of small animals, somewhat like the rabbits of Great Britain. When I expressed a great wish to ascend the pass, which is very steep and dangerous, I was strongly dissuaded from attempting it, it being declared to be quite impracticable, except to some of the most daring of the huntsmen. I was consequently obliged to satisfy myself with remaining at the foot to pursue my sport.

Game is very plentiful here, such as Guinea-fowl of various species, some jet-black and very large, others of a lighter colour, some horned and others not. Partridges are large and abundant; the male of one species is armed with four spurs, two upon each leg, nearly three-quarters of an inch apart, and in length according to their age. Pigeons of various sorts are also abundant, but the most numerous is the turtle-dove, which is here more domesticated than any other, except the common house-pigeon. The turtle-doves always take up their resting-place in towns or villages. The wood-pigeon is also abundant, but very wild. I observed another species, of a green and yellow colour, with a red ring round the neck about half an inch in diameter, and without feathers, the surface much resembling morocco leather. The natives have a very efficient mode of trapping these pigeons.

A little circumstance took place here, perhaps not unworthy of narration, respecting one of the last-named pigeons. This pigeon had been caught in a trap, and one of my young soldiers, anxious to elevate himself in my estimation, caught a pigeon, and, in order to make it appear that he had shot it, destroyed part of the head before presenting it to me, but of course I was quite aware that this was not true. This was the same young man who had on a former occasion, as I have previously related, procured a Guinea-fowl, and made a hole through the neck, declaring that, although he always used ball, he shot his birds through the neck. I now set him a task which gave him a damper. Taking a small piece of white paper, wetting it, and sticking it on the side of a rock, at twenty yards distance, I asked him to shoot at that mark; which he did, but it was nowhere near the paper. This very much chagrined not only himself, but the whole of his companions, who declared that the bullet had tumbled out before firing. I determined, however, to prove to him that it was not so easy a matter as he supposed to deceive an Englishman, and therefore gave him another chance, by shooting at the same piece of paper stuck against a palm-tree. This he also missed, as well as the tree. The caboceer seemed much annoyed lest I should consider the huntsman a fair specimen of their skill. He therefore desired me to shoot, thinking probably that I might be an equally bad shot; but I was fortunate enough to hit part of the paper, and of course the bullet entered the tree, which created some considerable surprise amongst the soldiers who accompanied me.

Upon our return to the town we found a fine dog lying on the ground, apparently just killed. He was very much swollen, particularly one of his fore-legs. I made inquiry of the owner respecting the cause of its death, and was told that, while visiting his farm at some short distance on the plain, a large snake came in contact with the dog, and in the conflict bit the dog in the fore-arm. The venom caused death in about a quarter of an hour afterwards. The dog died within two hundred yards of its home. Serpents are said to be very numerous and extremely venomous here, but I have not seen any of the serpent tribe since I left Whydah.

Upon my return to my quarters I found my servant Maurice apparently worse, and in very low spirits. He had hitherto expressed a wish not to be left, but to proceed with me on my journey. This, of course, in his present state, it would have been folly to allow him to do. I proposed, therefore, that if he were not much better in the morning, to leave him a few days, till I returned from the town of Whagba, for which place I intended to march. This the poor fellow consented to. He was now suffering much from dysentery, and his illness had every appearance of terminating fatally.

In the evening I was visited by one of the caboceer’s wives, who was introduced to me as the principal cook, and who had presided at the cooking of my food. This, of course, was a very broad hint that I should not forget her when distributing presents. Several of the caboceer’s younger wives, who seemed very anxious to flirt when an opportunity presented itself, came to make inquiry after the health of my servant, but their real motive was to obtain a glass of rum, for they knew that I had arranged to depart on the following morning. The caboceer, Agassadoo, importuned for every thing that met his eye, though he took special care not to do so when the caboceer or captain of my guard was present.

FOOTNOTES:

[2] I found this man was a native of Houssa, which accounts for his surname.

[3] The inhabitants of Paweea are about three thousand.

[4] Caboceer.

[5] Brother to the caboceer.

[6] Commander-in-chief of the soldiers.

[7] Second in command of the soldiers.

CHAPTER III.

The River Loto—Jokao Mountain—Jetta—Reception by the Caboceer—Ruins of the old Town of Kpaloko—Its curious Formation—Its former Importance on account of its Manufactures—Desolating Effects of War—Attachment of the Natives to particular Spots—Natural Tanks in the Mountains—Mount Koliko—Precipitous Granite Rock—Similarity to Scottish Scenery—The Nanamie—Laow, and the Laow Mountain—Kossieklanan Cascade—Tamargee Mountains—Mineral Spring—Mount Koglo—Insulting Conduct of the Caboceer—Whagba—Caboceer’s Hospitality—The Town—Inhabitants—Kindness of Athrimy, the Caboceer of Teo—War-Dance—Drunkenness—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Game—Curious Pigeons—An Incident—Absurd Notion—Departure from Whagba—Names of the Caboceer, &c.—Hospitality of the Caboceers of Laow and Massey—Beautiful Valley—Impregnable Position—The Caboceer of Kpaloko—Grandeur of the Scene—Jeka Houssoo—The Dabadab Mountains—Difficulty in obtaining Information—Resolve to leave my Attendants—My Scheme—Departure—Zafoora—Soil, Grain, Trees, Plants, &c.—Shea-Butter used for Lamps.

July 18th.—Early in the morning we got ready for our march to Whagba. I found my old friend Kpatchie waiting with an extra guard of one hundred men, and to my surprise found a number of the Baffo soldiers ready to escort me some distance from the town. We marched out with the band playing one of the favourite Dahoman airs, which seemed to me to have more of discord than music about it. On passing the gates, the path bears NN.E. across a level plain. After two miles we crossed the river Loto, a fine clear stream, running east; and at two miles and a half, and one hundred yards to the right of the path, a spot was pointed out to me where the King of Dahomey and his army had encamped for the space of three months, during the war with the King of Kpaloko, who, after a siege which lasted all that time, was compelled to surrender at discretion.

The plain here is well cultivated. Bearing eastward, about eight miles distant, the mountain of Jokao is seen; and on the left, about two miles and a half distant, is a large town, named Jetta, situated on a mountain of that name. At three miles and a half we were met by the caboceer of Jetta. We found him and his soldiers awaiting our arrival in a market-place, through which we had to pass. This market-place, like nearly all others, is shaded with large trees. The caboceer received us with great courtesy, his guard keeping up an irregular fire of musketry. After the usual compliments between both parties, we were presented with plenty of provisions brought from their own town. Having refreshed ourselves, I presented the caboceer and several of his head men with some trifling articles of hardware. Jetta is between the two mountains, Jetta and Kpaloko. The longitudinal form of these mountains is north and south.

At four miles, the path changing to east, we crossed a fine brook, named Awadakoo, the small tributary streams of which were strongly impregnated with iron. In the valley we found numerous blocks of pebbles combined together with iron. At five miles we passed through the ruins of the ancient town of Kpaloko, where the King was killed, as well as the King of Eyo, who succeeded the former king of that country, who had brought his army to the plains of Paweea, where his army was destroyed, as I have before mentioned. Kpaloko is of very curious formation, being nearly perpendicular at the sides, and the top like an acute arch. This mountain seems formed of a succession of concave scales, varying in thickness from twenty to thirty feet, and placed one upon another. These scales are formed of very hard granite of large grain. Several of these scales had parted near the centre of the top longitudinally, and slipped from their position down the side of the mountain, resting with their lower edges on the ground, and forming buttresses of five hundred feet long, and seventy feet high, leaving a space of about forty-eight feet from the foot of the mountain, or block, to the foot of the buttress.

On examining the ruins of this large town, I found not one hut left standing, showing the sad and desolating effects of war. This place had once the character of being the greatest manufacturing town in the kingdom of Mahee, extending her commerce through nearly the whole of that country, as well as that of Annagoo. Now all was silent as death—not a note or flutter even of any thing of the winged tribe was heard. The intense heat of the sun, without a breath of air, rendered the scene truly mournful and solitary. I could not help reflecting upon the natural attachment of the natives to particular spots, for although this town had been destroyed for years, the surviving natives still cultivated the gardens and the land formerly occupied by their ancestors and relatives. This circumstance is, however, little to be wondered at, for each house is invariably the family sepulchre.

The path now changed its bearing to N.E. Being the rainy season, the ground was very moist. And there are many good and permanent springs, whose streams run longitudinally with the mountain, from which the natives of the towns, now built on the top of the mountain, receive their supplies when their tanks which are formed by nature on the top of the mountain are exhausted. At six miles the path ran NN.E., with rock on both sides, Mount Koliko, and the town of the same name, being close on our left. The caboceer met us in the path with provision and water, as well as some peto for our refreshment.

After resting a quarter of an hour, we again proceeded on our march along the side of a smooth granite rock, so much on the dip or incline that my horse could scarcely keep his footing, though he was very sure-footed. After passing about a quarter of a mile over this dangerous road, the path ran along a narrow and small stream of clear water, with pebbly bottom. This reminded me of some of my native glens, the haunts of my boyhood. The rich luxuriant shrubs and trees intermingled overhead, forming festoons, woven together by various running plants of the sweetest odour, rendered this part of the path truly delightful and refreshing.

At seven miles the path changed to N. 60° W., and we crossed a rapid stream, named Nanamie, running N. At seven miles and a half we passed over a granite mountain, with good spring wells on the top. At eight miles the valley became narrow, with high mountains on each side of the path. The mountain on the left is named Laow, as is also the town. The caboceer, with his attendants and soldiers, met us in the path, with plenty of provisions and water, as well as rum, of which my people drank very freely. Having presented this caboceer with some trinkets and a flask of rum, we resumed our journey. The character of this mountain differs considerably from those in the neighbourhood, being divided into different sections of various thickness and strata, running N.E. and S.W., at a dip of 12° towards E. by S.

At eight miles and a half, NN.W., and at nine miles, NN.E., I noticed a fine brook and cascade, running south, named Kossieklanan; and on the east side, I observed a mountain, named Tamargee, of considerable magnitude. Here the palm and shea butter-tree grow in great abundance, but the butter-trees have all undergone the operation of scorching. At ten miles and a half I observed a chain of mountains, running north and south, distant from the path two miles; the northernmost of these is named Sawee.

On these mountains is a sort of yellow and very fine grass, equal to the finest needles, and about two feet high, growing in tufts similar to rushes. It appears at a distance as if the herbage were entirely scorched, being about the colour of yellow ochre. A shrub of the same colour grows here, about ten feet high, with leaves placed on the tree very similarly to our box, but about three times the length.

At twelve miles and a half, and distant from the path two miles to the right, are the mountains Lofo and Apakissa; and at thirteen miles, a mountain, named Bowha, close on the right of the path. Here is in the path a very fine spring, at the temperature of 62°, the water quite clear and less impregnated with iron than most others.

At fifteen miles Mount Koglo rose before us, eighteen hundred feet high, close to the left of the path, with a very large town on the top. Here we were not met by the caboceer or any of his people, as in other towns belonging to the King of Dahomey, but found they had been making bad fetish, as the natives term it, in the path. They had killed a white fowl and filled an earthen pot with palm-oil and some other composition, sticking the feathers into this composition and placing the pot in the path. This is considered by them to be one of the greatest insults which can be offered. However, I endeavoured to convince them that their bad fetish was of no avail. Still my people seemed rather alarmed in passing it, turning some distance out of the path.

A little farther on, we came to a market-place, attended only by some few women selling peto; but as these people were from the town of Koglo, the caboceer gave strict injunctions that none of our party should purchase anything. A messenger was immediately despatched to Abomey to inform the King of the conduct of the caboceer of Koglo, who, no doubt, will pay dearly for his bad fetish to the King’s stranger; they are sure to be invaded next year. They were defeated this year, but since that period the caboceer died, and his successor denies his allegiance to the King of Dahomey; but he will no doubt be glad to succumb, after a severe chastisement. At seventeen miles we came upon a brook named Lothay, running east, and a fine extensive plain to the eastward.

At twenty miles we reached the beautiful town of Whagba. About a mile and a half from the town we were met by the fine venerable caboceer and his attendants, who paid us every mark of respect, and drank water and then rum with us, his soldiers keeping up a continual fire, and beating their drums the whole distance into the town. The town of Whagba is fenced round with the prickly bush, which forms a hedge of about twenty yards wide. After passing through this outer fence, and about one hundred yards distant, is another wall, with strong gates, outside of which is the general market-place for strangers. Immediately inside is the principal town-market, which is held twice every week. Inside is another wall of hard clay, or swish, with still stronger gates. Upon entering the town I was met by ten of the trading merchants from Abomey, who gave me a hearty welcome.

The natives of this town seem a very mild and are apparently a more independent people, being less servile to their caboceer, than in any of the Mahee towns I have yet visited, although the caboceer seems much revered and esteemed. In the town I found excellent accommodation, the caboceer having some time previously to my arrival been made aware of my intention to visit him, consequently no trouble was spared to make me comfortable when I arrived. A fine house had been run up in the space of a fortnight for my accommodation, built square, and of two stories, with a ladder outside to ascend to the second story, quite unusual in any other towns except Abomey. The walls were yet a little damp, though the heat is so great.

Soon after my arrival, we were, as usual, supplied with plenty of provisions and also abundance of peto. After having refreshed ourselves, we were honoured by a visit from the caboceer and his retinue, with whom we entered freely into conversation. It appeared that he was a great favourite with the King of Dahomey, consequently he was vested with considerable power beyond what is generally allowed to any of the caboceers I had yet visited, except Kpatchie, of Zoglogbo. The caboceer of Whagba was like a petty king or ruler over several minor towns in the neighbourhood, within a circle of twenty miles. He was also allowed to govern his town at his own discretion as far as regards their domestic laws or customs, but their criminal laws were strictly Dahoman.

Sunday, July 20th.—A caboceer arrived from a town named Teo, at some distance from Whagba, named Athrimy. He brought several people with him, both head men and slaves, and with them about ten bushels of ready cooked provisions, and also one fine bull for the King of Dahomey, and another for myself. The caboceer, Athrimy, seemed much gratified in having an opportunity of shewing his loyalty to his sovereign by presenting me, the King’s stranger, and my people, with provisions gratis; although, of course, I gave them several articles of European manufacture in return.

This caboceer, as well as the ruler of Whagba, seemed to take great pleasure in making inquiries respecting England, our gracious sovereign, and our laws. They remained in conversation with me full three hours, their principal men being also present. Both of them seemed amused and astonished. After our palaver was finished, the guard of soldiers who accompanied Athrimy, musketeers and bowmen, all commenced their native war-dance. Then my Dahoman guards performed their dance. Afterwards, as is customary on such occasions, I presented the caboceers and head men with some rum, which at all times is very readily accepted; although in Dahomey a drunkard is much despised, and even punished, unless the party should be one of the King’s jesters, of whom his Majesty keeps a considerable number.

Many of the caboceers in the Mahee country, as well as on the coast, consider the greatest proof of their riches and power to consist in their having the means of getting intoxicated at least once every day. The caboceer Athrimy had heard of my entering the names of some of the caboceers and head men of Dahomey in my book, and requested, as a great favour, that his own name and those of his head men might be inserted in my book, deeming this to be the highest honour which could possibly be conferred upon them. As the enumeration of the names, therefore, may be of service to future travellers (since nothing will secure the confidence and friendship of these Africans more surely than the fact of a stranger visiting their country and inquiring for any of them), I here set them down.

After entering the names of the principals they determined upon giving me a puzzler, by desiring me to call the roll of the names I had already entered, and when each name had been called, and each individual had answered to his name, they all seemed quite amazed, expressing their conviction that white man was equal to their great fetish in knowledge and power. Their names were as follows:—

1. Kpaloo.
2. Damossee.
3. Kawpnhoo.
4. Chassoo.
5. Koothay.
6. Bosa.
7. Kossau Maboo.
8. Semanoo.
9. Koyakway.
10. Dadamy.[8]
11. Baadoo.
12. Dyahoo.
13. Wayhee, the caboceer’s principal or favourite wife.

Soon after this ceremony my friends departed, returning me a thousand thanks for the presents which I had given them, and hoping that I would soon again visit their country.

I then went out to visit the various krooms in the vicinity of Whagba, which were numerous. I took my gun with me, as partridges are very plentiful here, and very large. My people were very much delighted at seeing me shoot the first one flying. The body of the partridge is nearly as heavy as the English pheasant. The turtle-dove is also abundant here, as also the wood-pigeon (exactly similar to those in England,) and the house-pigeon. Many other sorts of pigeons are also found here of various plumage—green body, yellow and blueish green wings, with a red circle round the eyes. The crown-bird is here domesticated, and the vulture and eagle are also abundant, as well as several other birds of prey. I here observed several bulbous plants, bearing a beautiful flower, not before noticed in my travels.

An incident took place during my absence, which, although absurd, may be worthy of notice here, since it serves to show the ridiculous ideas and manners of the natives. During my temporary absence from the town, the man who had charge of my horse had been persuaded to accept a bribe from the caboceer to allow my horse, which was entire, to serve a very handsome mare, presented to the caboceer by the King of Dahomey. As soon as the mare was brought near my horse he became unruly and broke from his fastening and by some means tore or pulled off one of his shoes. This caused me to inquire by what means it occurred, believing that some of my people had been beating it, but every one denied all knowledge of the shoe being off. I then declared that I would punish the man in charge of my horse for neglect of duty, knowing that if he were at his post he must be aware by what means my horse had lost his shoe. This threat had the desired effect, and the man openly confessed that he had been tempted by the reward of one head of cowries,[9] (which at this place is forty-seven strings, each string containing thirty-three cowries,) or one dollar, (in this part of the country of more value than five sovereigns would be in England,) to allow it, although it is believed amongst these uncivilized beings that he is thus entirely spoiled during the rest of his life, and is rendered quite unfit to carry a rider after. This shows plainly the absence of principle, for this man who had charge of my horse was a captured slave, and had received a good education at the government school at Sierra Leone; but passion so far overcame principle, that for one dollar he would sacrifice my horse.

The caboceer, who was soon made aware of my having learned all the facts of the case, became alarmed, naturally supposing that I should feel much annoyed at such conduct, and dreading lest I should make the case known to the King of Dahomey. He was so much alarmed, indeed, that he would not venture into my presence during the whole of the afternoon, but several of his messengers visited me, requesting to know if I had every thing I wanted, and informing me that it was their master’s wish I should be furnished with any thing I might require. In the evening the caboceer and several of his head men and principal wives, and also several of his daughters, ventured to visit me. Upon approaching me, the old man in front, the whole party prostrated themselves on the ground, throwing dust over their heads and shoulders, until I had assured the caboceer of my forgiveness, at the same time telling him that had he asked me, he should have been welcome to the use of my horse. I also remonstrated with him upon the absurd notion entertained by them. To my no small surprise, the old man presented me with his youngest daughter for a wife, who was a mulatto, telling me she would be useful to wash my clothes. Upon my declining his offer, the old man seemed rather offended, until I informed him that as African wives were considered by their husbands to be also their slaves, I could not, without a breach of the laws of my own country, accept his offer. I told him, however, that I should make my proffered wife a present of a few small cotton handkerchiefs, and when I again passed through his country I should call for his daughter. This reconciled the old man, and I believe gave his favourite child much more satisfaction than leaving for ever her home to become a white man’s slave.

The old man furnished myself and people with an excellent supper and plenty of peto. I invited him to spend the evening with me, and partake of a glass of grog, which he very willingly accepted, and we parted for the night the best of friends.

July 21st.—Early in the morning, a messenger came to my house to inquire after my health, and about an hour afterwards an excellent breakfast was sent for myself and people. I had to put on the cast shoe on my horse, which was a difficult task, as I had not proper nails, and the hoofs of the African horses are so hard that a nail can scarcely be driven without the assistance of a brad-awl. Fortunately, however, I had a few common nails and a shoemaker’s hammer, so that by beating the nails a little thinner, and using the awl, I managed to fix the shoe, and prepared for my journey back to Baffo. The caboceer had ordered all his soldiers to prepare to accompany me as a sort of convoy out of the town.

All being arranged, the old man, and his numerous family and principal people, led the procession, and we passed out of the gates of the town, when immediately a running fire was commenced by the soldiers of Whagba. After accompanying me about a mile, the old man signified his intention of returning, and coming close to my horse he prostrated himself and bade me farewell; but I begged that he would dispense with such humiliation, assuring him that a white man did not require it. He expressed his high sense of the honour conferred upon him by the King sending his white stranger to visit him. He said he had heard there were white people, but never expected to see one, but hoped that I would soon again return, assuring me that my new bride should be waiting for me whenever I came back, and that every comfort should be furnished me, free of expense, whenever I might visit his country. We then shook hands and parted, the old caboceer with tears in his eyes.

I forgot to mention the names of the caboceer and head-men of Whagba;[10] they are as follow—

On my return to Baffo we proceeded by the side of the mountain of Kpaloko opposite to that we passed before, consequently we visited other parties to those we had met on my journey to Whagba. The first was the caboceer of Mount Laow, whose name was Minakoko. On my return I found him on the side of the path, with a number of his head men, and carriers with provisions, in all twenty-five large calabashes full together with a fine young bull. The caboceer of Massey also met me at the same place, presenting me with the same quantity of provisions as the above, which were more than we could all devour. After marching about two miles in a beautiful valley, well watered and cultivated, with Kpaloko on one side and Mount Laow on the other, as well as other mountains equally steep and difficult of access, we were again met by the caboceer of a town on the side of Mount Laow named Filaly, with fifty-five calabashes of provision, in all about twenty bushels; he also presented me with a very fine bull, and the caboceer of my guard with two goats. Kodeko-Sedgenakaw was his name, and he was one of the instances of surnames.

In passing this valley of several miles in length, and of three quarters of a mile in breadth, I could not help observing its natural defences as a military position. On our left was Kpaloko, whose steep sides are totally inaccessible, and Mount Laow, running parallel on the opposite side of the valley, equally steep and inaccessible, although not so high. Supposing this valley were walled across (which is narrow at each end) with batteries on the top, and properly armed, a disciplined army might, with proper resources, defy any number of enemies. The valley is composed of excellent soil, and rears annually four crops of the small red Indian corn. This sort, I believe, would grow in our British isles; and, with other vegetables, which grow with equal rapidity, would support an army constantly, capable of defending it during any siege, however prolonged. It has numerous springs, besides a considerable stream, which passes along in a serpentine course.

After reaching the end of this interesting valley, we were met at the market-place on the side of the path, under some large trees, by the caboceer of Kpaloko, who presented me with thirty-nine calabashes of provision and a fine bull. His name was Janko. While resting under the shade of the gigantic trees I could not help looking back with wonder on the singular work of the Supreme Ruler of Nature. The immense blocks, which might well be called mountains of granite, we had passed, thrown together in a confused mass or heap, overhanging the valley in awful grandeur, presented certainly the most interesting scene of the kind I had ever witnessed. This caboceer was very communicative and intelligent, and, I learnt, was much loved and respected by his people.

After resting about an hour, and distributing some presents, as I had done to all the caboceers and head men on my journey, we marched on our return for Baffo, which we reached in the evening, where I again took up my old quarters.

July 22d.—Early in the morning, Jeka Housoo, caboceer of Mount Joko, came all the way to Baffo, with twenty-two calabashes of provisions for my breakfast. I had now made up my mind to remain at Baffo, and explore the neighbourhood of this romantic place, and, if possible, to ascertain the name of the mountains already mentioned in my Journal. They appeared to me to be the same as those described by the old Mahomedan priest, (who paid me several private visits, according to the custom at Abomey,) as the Dabadab[11] mountains, where I should find Terrasso-weea, another Mahomedan priest, who was living in Yaouri, and present at the murder of Mungo Park, and who would be able to give me every information I might require respecting the melancholy fate of that unfortunate traveller. All my inquiries, however, were in vain. When I asked any person unconnected with my own party, their answer uniformly was, that they did not know the name of these mountains; they could only just perceive them in the distance; that they were too far away to know their name; and that I must ask my own caboceer.

I had already found out that orders had been given by the King that no person, who was not quite acquainted with any subject I might require information upon, was to pretend to answer any inquiries. But even my own caboceer pretended ignorance of the name of these mountains. I therefore determined to steal a march, if possible, from my guard of soldiers, although I was aware it would be attended with difficulty as well as hazard to myself and those who accompanied me. I went out and returned again frequently during the day, from short shooting excursions, till the caboceer of my guard considered a few men sufficient to attend me during these rambles in the neighbourhood. This was just what I was aiming at. When I found my object so far attained, I called my own private servants, Thomas and John, and told them of my intention to visit the distant mountains I had that day been observing through my telescope, informing them that these mountains were, beyond a doubt, the same as those described by the old priest at Abomey as the place where we should find Terrasso-weea.

They were, they said, of the same opinion; but when I again told them of my intention to visit those mountains, they pointed out many objections, some of which were not unreasonable. They were aware of the strict injunctions of the King to my guard respecting my safety and return to Abomey, and also that the captain, or caboceer, of my guard was responsible by his head for my safe return; they moreover observed, that if we entered the territory of another prince with an armed force, it would place us in danger. Still I persevered in my intention of proceeding, and told them I would make each of them a present of a handsome piece of cloth, over and above their pay, upon my return, if they would accompany me. This was to them a tempting offer for one day’s journey (as we then supposed). They promised to keep all quiet, and agreed to my arrangement. I told them that I would go out early in the morning, as if on a shooting excursion, and directed them to bring with them one head of cowries, and a small box, containing a few clasp knives and some small scissors, Jew’s harps, needles, and thimbles. With these few articles we went out to shoot; and as I generally shot off my horse’s back, no suspicion of my intentions was evinced by any of the rest of my party.

It fortunately happened, that early on this morning the caboceer from Mount Awya, whose name is Cassoo, had brought us plenty of provision and live-stock, namely, a goat, a fowl, some yams, and five strings of cowries, so that I had an opportunity of leaving when the soldiers were at breakfast. Only three soldiers accompanied me, one of whom happened to be a Fellattah. After we had gone about five miles, and I not appearing to notice the different birds, my attendants pointed out to me the palm and shea butter nut trees as we passed, and appeared to become uneasy, broadly hinting that it was now time to return. However, I was determined not to let the present opportunity slip, but at once told them that I intended to visit a friend who was at present trading in a town close at the foot of the distant high mountains.

The path bore (true) North 50° towards East. The land is level and rich loam, and well watered from chalky or pipe-clay springs. After leaving Baffo a few miles, nothing of cultivation shows itself till within a few miles of the town of Zafoora, where the soil is well cultivated, and crops of maize and Guinea corn are abundant; yams and manioc are also plentiful. Palm-nuts and ground nuts also abound; and here the shea-butter is in common use for burning in their lamps, which are of a very simple construction, being merely a shallow earthen vessel in the shape of a saucer. Their method of trimming their lamps is as simple as the construction of the lamp itself: a piece of wick is twisted from the native cotton which is abundant here, and coiled up in the vessel, then a quantity of the shea butter, about the consistence of hog’s-lard, is pressed into the lamp, on the top of the wick. The lamp thus trimmed is placed in a small niche, several of which are left in the wall when the house is built. As the heat of the lighted wick approaches, the butter melts into a liquid like oil, and burns extremely clear, without any unpleasant smell.

FOOTNOTES:

[8] Commander-in-chief of the militia.

[9] After proceeding some distance into the interior the cowrie increases in value.

[10] Matcholee, one of the principal men of Whagba, was selected as one of the most intelligent men in the Mahee country, and summoned to Abomey to be my guide through that country.

[11] Dababab is, as I have already mentioned, a sort of dumpling, made without fat, composed of the meal of the Indian corn.

CHAPTER IV.

Zafoora—Terror of the Natives—Cold Reception by the King—My Disappointment—Exorbitant Charge—Unpleasant Position—Palaver with the King—Scene of the Defeat of the Dahomans—Inhospitality—The Shea-butter, and other Trees—The Gwbasso—Prevalent Diseases—Soil—The Velvet Tamarind—Wearisome Journey—Akwaba—Cold Reception by the Caboceer—His Disappointment—Slave Trade—Hard Bargain—Manufacture of Indigo—Hardware—The Ziffa—King Chosee and his Cavalry—Their Hostile Attitude—Moment of Danger—Result of a Firm Demeanour—Respect shewn by the King and Natives—Enter Koma with a Band of Music—Kind Reception—Introduction to the King’s Wives—Palaver with the King—The Niger known here as the Joleeba—Presents to the King—Babakanda—Exorbitant Charges for Provisions—Manufactures—Ginger, Rice, &c.—Seka—Bustle of the Caboceer—Slave-Market—Trade Monopolized by the Caboceer—The Kolla-nut—Honey—Peto—Palaver with the Caboceer—Soil—Assofoodah—Hostile Reception—Palaver—Ridiculous Confusion—Inhospitality.

Upon my near approach to the town of Zafoora, the people employed in the fields appeared, but fled from their employment, halting at short intervals and looking backward, like startled cattle. However, as we came nearer to the entrance of the town, they seemed more bold and awaited our approach. A messenger on the look-out had doubtless informed the caboceer or king of our approach, and he had sent a messenger or head man to inquire what we wanted, from whence we came, and if we bore any message or presents for him; but my reply was, that I merely came to see himself. I remained outside the inner gate till the messenger returned, who was detained some time. My people now showed some symptoms of alarm, and we found by experience that we were not under the protection of the good King of Dahomey. No ready-cooked provisions, no prostrations, or cheerful welcome, but all looked curiosity and suspicion. At length the messenger returned, informing us that the King would shortly be ready to receive us. Accordingly, in about a quarter of an hour afterwards, he made his appearance, surrounded by his head men and soldiers. The soldiers, who were bowmen and spearmen, exhibited the most singular gestures as they approached till within a few paces, when the whole party halted. The King in person then desired to know if it were himself I wanted. During this inquiry he eyed me with apparent doubt or suspicion. I told him I hoped I saw him well and happy, but I had another object in view besides coming to see him, which was to visit a merchant, a Mahomedan fetish-man, named Terrasso-weea.

As soon as I mentioned this man, the King, as if aroused from stupor, was all politeness and condescension; but to my great disappointment and dismay, I was informed that my friend had left that town, after a long sojourn, for one at a great distance in the interior. This seemed almost like a death-blow to me, and I could also observe that my people were much disheartened, as well as foot-sore and tired. My poor fellows were glad to lie down, and my little horse seemed a little tired, although I had walked some considerable distance. I had travelled forty-four miles, almost without halting. Concealing as much as possible my disappointment, I began to make some inquiry where I could purchase some fowls. The King immediately ordered some to be brought, from which I selected two, but was astonished when, upon asking the price, I was told twelve strings of cowries for each fowl. This was an exorbitant charge, as the selling price amongst each other is 1¹⁄₂d.; however, I was obliged to comply with the extortion, although I had only one head of cowries with me, not expecting to be absent more than a day. It is true I had some articles of hardware, but although they would greedily have accepted them as presents, yet money—money seemed to speak their language better than any thing else, as in fact it does in all countries.

This circumstance was rather a damper on a private scheme I had then in contemplation. During the time our meal was being cooked, which was both our dinner and supper, I made inquiry how far distant the place was to which the merchant had gone, and was informed that, supposing I commenced my journeys every morning before the rising of the sun, and walked fast, without stopping to eat till the sun was gone out of sight, I should reach the place in eight or nine days at farthest. One man said he had once been with this Mahomedan priest, and returned from Adafoodia in seven days. I was informed by the King of Zafoora, that the merchant had a white man in his company. This information was a stimulus to my determination to pursue my object of obtaining information. The white man I conjectured must have been a man named Bell, who had obtained a free passage from England to Fernando Po, whence he said he intended to proceed up the Niger to the confluence of the Shadda, thence up that river to the lake Shad, and there remain three years. This I was told on the coast, but from what I had already experienced of the African climate, I feared that his calculations were too extravagant, still I could come to no other conclusion than that the white man spoken of by the King must be the same.

I now began to reflect upon my present position. First, I had left my guard in a clandestine manner, and in all probability I might be the means of an excellent man (my caboceer) losing his head. Next, I might incur the displeasure of the King of Dahomey, who had been my real friend; and, lastly, I might probably sacrifice those who accompanied me. I had, however, already made a serious breach, and I determined to proceed at all hazards, resolving to send the weakest of my three soldiers back to Baffo, to inform the caboceer of my guard that my friend had gone on a few days’ journey, accompanied by a countryman whom I was anxious to see, and desired him to make himself easy till my return, which would be as soon as possible.

The King of Zafoora entered into a lengthened inquiry respecting the Dahomans, but I dared not acknowledge the patronage of the King of Dahomey, nor yet let him know that the soldiers accompanying me belonged to him, otherwise I might have been deemed a spy. It was now that I learned the reason the Dahomans would not know the name of the Dabadab Mountains. Many years ago the Dahomans besieged those mountains; but after remaining near their foot, and suffering much from small-pox and fever, which they deemed to proceed from the vengeance of their own fetish, they raised their unsuccessful siege, and those who survived returned in shame to Abomey; upon which a proclamation was issued that the name of these mountains should never again be mentioned, or the small-pox, as that disease is very much dreaded on the whole of the west coast, as well as in the interior. I was glad when the King ceased his inquiries, for my people required rest as well as myself. We were allowed to remain in this hut during the night with my horse tied up outside. One fowl was reserved for our breakfast in the morning—rather a scanty allowance for all of us; but we had stored our havresacks pretty well with heads of corn, which was nearly ripe at this season, and very sweet. Although the caboceer, after my inquiry respecting Terrasso-weea, appeared tolerably friendly, and eager to receive any little article as a present, he never offered me anything in return.

July 24th.—Early in the morning we commenced our journey, having made a hurried and rather scanty breakfast. One of my soldiers returning to Baffo, I had now only four persons besides myself. The path bore N. 35° W. varying to N. 10° W. and N. 15° W. (true) bearing. The country was level and well watered, open and studded with small clumps of bushes and shea butter-trees as well as palm. On the plain I observed many large sycamore-trees, with very large leaves, and the bark rather more rough than those in England. The acacia is also very abundant in this neighbourhood. At six miles we reached the river Gwbasso, which is of considerable magnitude, being twenty yards wide, and twelve feet deep. The banks were nearly level with the water, the river running eastward at the rate of three miles per hour. It abounds with alligators of great size, as well as hippopotami.

Little of interest occurred during this day’s journey: we only passed a few miserable krooms, where kankie and water were sold to travellers, each kroom growing merely enough of corn to supply their own wants. Small-pox and yaws seemed to have made great havoc amongst the natives; probably, on that account, intercourse with their neighbours was strictly forbidden.

At about twenty miles, we halted by the side of a small rivulet, running eastward. It had cut a deep channel in the soil, which was at this place red and crumbly, resembling that in the vicinity of our copper-mines in England. On the banks were numerous shrubs and brambles, and plenty of the velvet-tamarind trees. Here we lighted a fire under the shade of one of these last-mentioned trees, where we had a glorious feast upon roasted corn; but my little horse relished the corn very well without taking the trouble to roast it.

We remained about an hour and a half, when we resumed our journey, my men complaining of the soreness of their feet, for the road was now very rough with red pebbles, which bruised them very much. After a tiresome journey of thirty-one miles, we arrived at the town of Akwaba. Here we were obliged to wait a considerable time before we could be admitted into the inner gates of the town, the caboceer having to ornament himself previous to making his appearance; and here also the caboceer received us rather coolly, seeming to be very anxious to know my object in coming to visit his country. I was aware that it was of no use to explain that I came with scientific views, so I told him I came to see himself and my friend, (as I called him,) Terrasso-weea. This name seemed to gain me welcome every where, and I found it very convenient. We were invited into the market-place to make our palaver, and some water was handed us to drink. This pleased me and my people much, as we were aware that this was the truest mark of their friendship; but they offered us nothing to eat, although I can answer, the packman’s drouth was at that moment most pressing.[12] However, we were obliged to submit to a great many idle questions, respecting white men’s country, and also respecting the Dahoman country, which they seemed to dread much, and exclaimed much against the Dahomans for not allowing guns and other articles of trade to pass through into the Fellattah country.

The caboceer seemed much disappointed when he found, upon inquiry, that I was not come to purchase slaves, informing me that he had got plenty to supply me with at a very cheap rate. He said he could conceive no other motive for white man coming to black man’s country, unless to trade in some way or other. I told him I had been trading, but my goods were nearly exhausted, and shewed him some Jew’s harps and needles. These he admired, but still he preferred money (cowries), but would like a present to keep in remembrance of me. This I told him was all very well, but I wanted to barter for some food. After much higgling, we made a hard bargain for some fowls and a large duck, which we were obliged to keep an eye upon, lest he should be again restored to his family. Had we killed him he would have been spoiled before morning, as nothing of animal life will keep good more than a few hours. Our method of taking the feathers off was by dipping the fowls in hot water, which saved a great deal of trouble. We purchased a small quantity of red rice, which grows in this country, and with the two fowls and some shalots, we managed to make an excellent meal, after which we were left to repose in a tolerably comfortable hut, but without mat or bedding of any description. The natives here are nearly all Mahomedan, but are not scrupulous as to the creed or habits of others, having been mixed up so much with Pagans throughout their long wars a few years back.

Early on the morning of the 25th we again breakfasted off cold fowl and some cold boiled corn. One of the soldiers fastened the Muscovy drake’s feet together, and tied him to his havresack; and thus we commenced our march from Akwaba, the path leading northward, narrow, and worn very deep, which was caused by the water running along it. The land was still level, with stunted trees of various descriptions, to me unknown by name. At seven miles we passed a small kroom, where indigo was rudely manufactured by pounding or grinding the leaves upon a stone upon which they also grind corn. When ground sufficiently it is made up into round balls about the size of a cricket-ball, and exposed in the market for sale. Iron is manufactured in this country. In this kroom hoes for agricultural use are made in a superior manner, as also stirrups, similar to those used by the Moors in the neighbourhood of Tangiers and El-Arish. Bits for horses’ bridles are also manufactured here of a very severe description, the cross-bar or mouth-piece having in its centre a ring large enough to allow the horse’s under-jaw to pass easily through it: this ring of course acts both as bit and curb, but is very likely to break the horse’s jaw, which is very frequently the case in the Fellattah country.

In the neighbourhood of this kroom we again stocked our havresacks with corn, which was of a superior sort, being smaller in the grain, and very sweet. At twelve miles we crossed the river Ziffa, which runs eastward. This river is of little magnitude, though navigable by canoes of a large size. The country in the vicinity of the path was nearly level, but low table-mountains might be observed at a great distance to the eastward. At twenty-seven miles we arrived at the cultivated land in the vicinity of the town of Koma. It appears that as soon as our presence was known in the Fellattah country, and the route which we were pursuing, messengers had been despatched before us to apprise the caboceers of our coming.

When about a mile from the town, while passing through the corn plantation, we were met by Chosee, the King of this province, preceded by a host of cavalry, of extraordinary appearance, who came to meet us, flourishing their short broad-swords above their heads, accompanied by the wildest yells imaginable. Their horses were at their speed, but the little animals being over weighted, did not get over the ground very fast. My attendants were much alarmed at so unusual a spectacle, never having seen any mounted soldiery before. They halted in astonishment, not knowing whether they were our friends or enemies. I cannot but confess that I felt something of the same uncertainty myself; however, long exposure to danger and privation have a wonderful influence in preparing the mind for the various chances of travelling in a barbarous country, and we are often carried through scenes of danger and difficulty scarcely without noticing them at the moment they occur, though upon subsequent reflection we often shudder at the idea of the danger we ran. I told my men not to be alarmed or show any symptoms of fear. They marched in single file close to my horse’s heels, but I directed them that if an attack were made upon us, the act of my drawing my sword was to be a signal of defence, as it would be useless for us to sell our lives cheaply.

Before we had time to say more, the party were close upon us. I was aware that I had a much superior horse to any I observed amongst this troop; and I also knew that I had much superior weapons to theirs, and that I could destroy a number of them in a short time; yet, if they stood, it was useless to hope for any success against such a disparity of numbers. However, when they were about three yards from me, the whole of this confused rabble pulled up short and commenced a song, each keeping his own time, in praise of the wisdom and power of their King, the group opening out from their centre to allow King Chosee to advance. I was aware that it was a customary thing for all strangers and inferiors to prostrate themselves before the kings or superior rulers; but I was equally aware that by so doing I should be lessening the dignity of my country, as well as their own respect towards myself. I remained consequently on horseback, till the King dismounted and was in the act of prostration, when I desired him not to do so, as it was not customary in my country. I then immediately dismounted, and shook hands with him, which is also a customary form of salutation in this country. His chiefs and principal men were then introduced to me. After going through the usual ceremonies observed upon receiving strangers of note, I was invited to enter the town of Koma.

This town, like nearly all others in that country, is strongly walled and fenced round, with only two gates. We were conducted to the market-place, preceded by a rude band of musicians, playing instruments like the ancient hautboy. The music was rude to the ear of an European, but still not unpleasant, and my people were quite delighted with it. I felt myself more at home in this town than in any place I had passed since I left the Mahee country. The King acknowledged that he was made aware that my purpose in passing through the country was to visit Terrrasso-weea. He, it appeared, was much esteemed as a man of talent, independently of his being a fetish-man. I was treated by this King with every mark of respect, and even kindness. He introduced me to his sister, to whom I presented a few needles and two thimbles.

After returning to the market-place, the King introduced me to some of his wives, who were like so many sheep in a pen, over the walls of which on one side they could conveniently look. Here I was requested to station myself for show, like a wild beast in some public menagerie Some of the young wives seemed to take great interest in seeing a white man; others, upon my looking steadfastly at them, ran back, as if alarmed. The weather being hot, I felt extremely thirsty, and asked one of my people to get me some water; whereupon the multitude of wives hearing what I requested, were in a moment all in a bustle which should be the first to present me with a calabash full of water. No doubt they expected a present for their attention. To the lady who first presented me with water, I gave a few needles. The King, perceiving that I was thirsty, ordered plenty of palm-wine to be set before me and my people. We were shortly after invited into one of the King’s inner apartments, where provisions in abundance were set before us, amongst which I observed a fine guano, which had been dried like a kippered salmon, and cooked with native rice. Not much relishing, however, this alligator-like customer, I made over the whole of it to my people, and contented myself with some goat-soup, which was excellent.

The King made many inquiries respecting my acquaintance with Terrasso-weea, and how long I had known him. To these questions I was rather perplexed how to answer, but was obliged to acknowledge that I had only seen his friend, the Mahomedan priest, at the great custom at Abomey. A great many questions were then put to me as to how I happened to come to Abomey, and if I had ever seen that great warrior, the King of Dahomey. I confessed that I had, but happened merely to be passing through his country, when he asked me to remain a few days, as he might have done it himself, and that I was only travelling across the country to ascertain whether it would be possible to establish a trade with this part of Africa, by bringing guns and gunpowder to exchange for their produce. Upon this he seemed much pleased, but quickly asked me whether we would take slaves in exchange. I replied that we were more in want of corn and oil, as well as ivory, all of which he professed to be able to supply in abundance.

He asked in what way we would pass the merchandise I proposed to barter into his country, as he said that the great Kings of Dahomey and Yarriba would not allow any other articles than such as they approved of to pass through their country into the interior. To this I replied that we could come up the great river Niger, which was not known here by that name; though I soon ascertained that he had a perfect knowledge of the unfortunate expedition up that river, with the fire canoes, as he called them; and he even knew of the disasters which happened to that expedition, assuring me that that season was the most fatal to the natives in his own and other countries in the interior, which had been known during the lifetime of the oldest man then living.

The Niger appears to be known here only by the name Joleeba, not Joliba. Only a few people here professed to have ever seen it. Fever and small-pox seem to be the most dreaded of all diseases; though a very loathsome disease prevails, which in England is generally called yaws. Some are so afflicted with it, that the odour from their person is almost unbearable; others are one mass of eruption with holes in the arms and legs even to the bone.

After we had sufficiently rested ourselves, I proposed resuming my march, and looked out some Jew’s harps, and a pair of small scissors, with some needles, as a present to the King, excusing myself for offering him such trifling articles, by informing him that I was not aware that I should come so far, but in my next journey I promised to make him some more valuable presents. He then commenced a long list of the articles which he would prefer that I should bring on my next visit, to which of course I assented.

His Majesty expressed a great desire that I should remain that night, but as my journey was long, and I was anxious to get it over, I declined his kind offer, and resumed my march, accompanied by a messenger sent by the King to introduce me to the chief of the next town, which we reached in about six miles more. This town is named Babakanda. Around it the land is in high cultivation, bearing excellent crops of various sorts of corn and rice, as well as many bulbous plants for consumption. Here we were also tolerably well received, probably on account of the King’s messenger. This town is much larger than Koma, and has got a palace or a royal residence, where the King often resides.

The King Chosee is sovereign of this town as well as many others in this neighbourhood. The caboceer of this place received us without great ceremony, and at first seemed rather shy and diffident, till the King’s messenger intimated my knowledge of Terrasso-weea and my journey to Adafoodia. He then showed more familiarity and confidence. We asked him for some wood to kindle a fire to boil some corn, which we carried with us, and tried to buy some fowls, but they were so very dear, that we could not make a bargain for any of them. They asked sometimes twenty strings of cowries for one fowl, though, as I have said, one string and a half was the market-price. I was much annoyed at this, but would even have purchased at their own price, if they would have taken any of my articles in exchange; however, the caboceer would not take any thing but money in payment, though he asked greedily for presents. I gave him only a paper of needles, however, as a remuneration for the wood with which he supplied us.

The chief manufacture of this town is leather and sabres of an inferior description, remaining in whatever position they are bent. Ginger is grown here in great abundance, as well as rice and yams of a very large description. The stock of cattle is also abundant, though not quite so handsome as those of the Mahee country. The natives are very shy of intercourse with strangers, consequently I had little opportunity of knowing by inquiry much of their locality beyond my own observation. The town appeared to contain about nine or ten thousand inhabitants.

At day-break on the 26th July we breakfasted off a few heads of boiled corn, and marched from Babakanda, bearing N. 33° W., true bearing, varying during the day’s journey of twenty-eight miles, from 33° to 25°, 20° to 80° W. During the first twelve miles the country was nearly of the same character as last described, except that I observed the springs in this neighbourhood to contain a greater quantity of carbonate of iron. At thirteen miles we arrived at the town of Seka. Here we entered with little ceremony, though our sudden intrusion did not seem quite agreeable to the caboceer. Probably this feeling was roused by our not having forwarded a messenger to acquaint him with our attention of visiting him, so that he might be able to make a greater display of his grandeur and show of dress, of which they are generally very fond. We found him in the market-place apparently very busy, for he appeared to monopolize the direction and regulate the prices of all merchandise and manufactures exposed in the outer market.

Slaves were exposed in great numbers in the market for sale, some in irons and others without. It appears that those wearing irons were strangers, brought from a distance, and the others were in many instances the children and relatives of the sellers. It may not be perhaps generally known, that the children of domestic slaves are invariably the property of the owners of the parents, and are bought and sold in a similar manner to our cattle, when disposed of by the breeders in the public market. The outer market is outside of the walls, under the shade of large trees, but when a town or city has two walls, the public market is held within the outer walls. This market is often attended by strangers from a great distance. The private market is invariably held within the walls; and if the town is large, there are several market-places in the most convenient parts of the town.

The caboceer and his officers retain the power of regulating the prices, as I have before stated; and as the greater part of the trade (with the exception of any European goods which may find their way into these remote parts) is entirely in his hands, on the great public market-days he is always busily engaged in the purchase of goods for his private markets. His wives and slaves are then stationed in the inner markets with different articles for sale, and many of the younger boys and girls are sent round the towns in the neighbourhood, hawking light goods for sale.

The kolla-nut is a great article of trade here, and seems much prized by the natives. From its extreme bitterness it is an excellent tonic, and is very serviceable in promoting moisture in the mouth when parched for want of water. The kaom (saltpetre) in its original state is sold here, but at a much higher rate than in the Mahee country. Cloths are also manufactured here with considerable taste, as also bridles and saddles, ornamented with cowries. The market-places are arranged similarly to our system in Europe, different articles being sold in places specially appointed for their sale.

In rainy weather the market, except for cattle, is held under the piazzas in front of the houses, which are very low, but as they always sit cross-legged, or lie down by their goods, they experience no inconvenience from the lowness of their dwellings. Honey is abundant here, but as dark in colour as molasses. The hives are generally taken in the hollow trunks of trees, when the honey is pressed from the comb, consequently it is not of the finest quality. A great quantity of peto is made here also, and sold in the market at a very low rate. When made strong, this liquor is very intoxicating, particularly as it is drunk in a state of fermentation.

After a short interview with the caboceer, during which he questioned me as to my purpose in visiting his country, I was asked to partake of some peto, which stood in immensely large earthen pots, made in the form of the bottle-gourd, from which, doubtless, they have taken their pattern. In reply to his questions I said, that my object was to ascertain what trade could be done in this part of the country in the event of my coming next time with a large quantity of goods. This, I knew, would please him, and he assured me that I should certainly get rid of any quantity I might bring. I told him, that after I had seen Terrasso-weea, I should return, and bring plenty of goods to his mart. I was very well aware I should easily get rid of any quantity of goods if I brought them, but in all probability at their own price. I knew, however, that this would be the safest excuse I could make. I asked the price of slaves, and was immediately shown a number of male and female slaves, varying in price from forty-six thousand to forty-nine thousand cowries.

After receiving orders for different articles on my return, I resumed my journey, having presented the caboceer with a pair of scissors and a few needles. At twenty miles, we crossed the brook Ithay. Here I found good water, running eastward over a gravelly bed. The country was level, and now more gravelly, containing a considerable quantity of iron. The soil was less rich, though crops of corn were very abundant. The valley forming the source of the brook Ithay was richly shaded with large trees of luxurious growth.

At twenty-eight miles, we arrived at the large town of Assofoodah. Here we were also received with much apparent suspicion. It was now getting late, and I felt much anxiety to see the caboceer or king, to obtain a hut to sleep in. We were very tired, and though we had eaten a considerable quantity of corn as we passed along, still my people, as well as myself, were a good deal exhausted, and in want of more substantial food.

After considerable delay, the caboceer came to the outer gate of the town, attended by a number of bowmen and spearmen. He advanced with a slow, firm step, with a stern, suspicious frown upon his features. My poor fellows, who could speak English, remarked how different our treatment was when under the protection of the noble King of Dahomey, as compared with our present reception. However, this was not a time to humble ourselves, and I therefore determined to assume great consequence, though I was not now in possession of one single cowrie. I stood by my horse’s head, with folded arms, and assumed as much consequence as if the place were my own. When within about ten paces, the caboceer made a sudden halt, his head men prostrating themselves, and at the same time asking what I wanted with their master, whom they styled king.

Upon this I replied, through my interpreter, that I had come to pay him a visit, and also for the purpose of trading with them. Though no further remark was made by them, there seemed something incredulous in his manner; and the whole of his people seemed distant and suspicious. I felt, consequently, much inclined to leave the town, and encamp for the night in the bush; but, upon a second consideration, I thought if any evil were premeditated towards us, it would be more likely to be put into execution if we were out of the town than when under the protection of the King. I therefore sent a messenger to ask him if he could accommodate us with a hut to shelter us, as it was now raining fast. But he had already observed the sudden approach of the tornado, and had gone to order a hut for our accommodation. This was at some distance, and we were led through small doors from one court-yard into another.

After passing through several court-yards, I was told that my horse could proceed no farther, and must remain where it then was. This I did not at all relish. The objection made was that the doorways were too low; whereupon, I ordered the saddle to be taken off, and the poor animal, bending itself down, passed through the whole of the low doorways, through which I could scarcely thrust myself.

At last we arrived at a tolerably comfortable court-yard, of a quadrangular form, one side of which was occupied by large stones for grinding corn. Here a number of good-looking young females were busily employed in grinding. Upon my entry, the most ridiculous confusion ensued; no retreat was ever more precipitate; one young girl pushing down and running over another, children screaming, even the dogs running, howling with fear, and upsetting pots of provision, or anything which stood in their way. By this time I was wet through, and very glad when shown my hut, which was quite dark, having no opening to admit of light except the door-way, which was little more than three feet high. We were shortly afterwards furnished with some wood to make a fire, but we had nothing to cook. I endeavoured to bargain for some fowls in exchange for needles or thimbles, but, although they seemed to covet every thing they saw, money was their only object, and, though Mahomedans, this seemed their god. We were consequently obliged to satisfy ourselves with roasting the heads of boiled corn which we still retained in our havresacks. One young lad engaged to procure me plenty of grass and corn-leaves for my horse for some needles, which I readily agreed to. He was so much satisfied with his wages, that I easily engaged him to procure some old corn for my horse also. He said his mother had got a large corn-store, but I found what he considered a large store did not exceed fifty or sixty bushels.

He soon returned with plenty of corn for my horse, and a fresh supply of needles seemed to give him great satisfaction. In a short time my hut was crowded with boys, each with a bundle of wet grass, thinking that they would obtain needles in payment. When I told them that the first supply was sufficient, they declared, to my no small amusement, that they thought I myself ate grass. Whether this was their real belief, or whether merely to obtain money, I am not able to determine, but I should suppose the latter. After a short time, the affrighted ladies returned to their employment, and were with others soon induced to come to the door of my hut. Some of the boldest of the crowd ventured to come into my hut, importuning me for dashes (presents), and shortly afterwards made free enough to endeavour to examine the contents of our havresacks; but by a stern look, and placing my hand at the same time on the hilt of my sword, they made a hasty retreat.

In about an hour afterwards, the king or chief returned to my quarters, and some of his attendants brought a small quantity of shea-butter to trim my lamp afresh. He asked me if I had any tobacco, or if I had any knives. Having a few small pocket-knives, I made him a present of one and some Jew’s harps. We kept a light the greater part of the night, during which time many parties came to look at me. This was annoying, as I so much required rest, and had an unsatisfied appetite. It was a bad season of the year for yams, which were not yet ripe, and in this country too they are of inferior quality, and very insipid, being water yams.

FOOTNOTES:

[12] In Scotland, the “packman’s drouth” is hunger for food.

CHAPTER V.

Inhospitality—Good Fortune—Soil—Mahomedan Town—Hymn of Welcome—The Natives, their Curiosity, &c.—Manufactures, &c.—The Crown-bird domesticated—Quampanissa—Market Day—Curiosity of the Natives—A Cranery—Market Constables, their Functions—Singular Musical Instrument—A Palaver with the Caboceer—Bidassoa—Mishap—A Bivouac—Reception by the Caboceer—Palm Wine freely taken by Mahomedans—Superstition of the Natives—Grain Stores—Manufactures—Buffaloes—Fruit Trees—Horses, their market price here—Cattle—Elephants—Manufactures—Game—Method of drying Venison—Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, &c.—Kosow—Terror of the Native Females—Appearance of the Caboceer—Palaver—Presents to the Caboceer—His Harem—Swim across the River Ofo—Its Width, &c.—The Town of Kasso-Kano—Slave-Market—The Women—Neighbouring Hills—Iron—Antimony—Native System of smelting Ore—Native Furnace and Bellows—Roguery—Bivouac.

After a very uncomfortable night, and not much refreshed, we re-commenced at day-break, on the 27th July, our journey, but without breakfast. We had met with but little hospitality in this town, consequently our presents were not many in return. We were escorted to the outer gates by the chief, who is vested with the sole government, and his order is peremptory law amongst the subjects of this and several other towns. But although styled king, he can at any moment be divested of his power by the real monarch of the Fellattah country. As soon as we had parted with our friend and his people, we began to think of obtaining something to eat, being aware, that if at any distance from a town or kroom, we could not procure any corn, as it is only in the neighbourhood of towns or villages that the land is cultivated.

We very soon had an opportunity of filling our havresacks, and not long afterwards I had the good fortune to shoot a Guinea fowl, of an uncommon description, at least to me, as I had seen but very few previous to this. This bird was very large, and of a jet-black colour: even the legs were as black as a sloe. This good fortune seemed to cheer my men, who before seemed very low in spirits; and, to be candid, I was not entirely void of the same feeling myself.

The path from Assofoodah[13] bears N. 45° W., varying from 45° W. to 10°, 25°, and 20° (true). The country was still level, the soil varying from gravel to a sort of ruddle, used in marking sheep, similar to some soils in England. This, when wet, seems greasy, and is very slippery. It is very productive.

At four miles we arrived at a small town, strongly fenced in with a prickly hedge, at least twenty yards broad, and strongly walled inside, each fence having a strong gate, as well as being guarded by a sentinel or watchman. Here we halted at the inner gate, till a messenger acquainted the caboceer with our arrival. We were not long before the caboceer came, attended by two priests (Mahomedan), who, as they advanced, repeated passages of the Koran, at the same time holding out a small book about three inches wide, and four inches and a half long, with not more than a dozen leaves of a curious sort of paper, resembling rice paper. This ceremony was something entirely new to me, consequently I felt not a little confused, not knowing the meaning of it.

I was soon, however, set at ease through my interpreter, who, though he was one of the Dahoman soldiers, was a native of some part of the Fellattah country. I was determined to wait patiently to see what would be expected of me, never offering to pay any compliment, though I could scarcely help thinking that they had already been paying me one, which I had not yet returned. My interpreter, however, assured me that this was a customary form upon a friendly reception of strangers.

After the singing men had concluded their song or hymn of welcome, they all advanced, and with all the head men, except the chief himself, prostrated themselves before me. I then approached, and, dismounting, shook hands with the chief, who made me several graceful bows, each time repeating the word “sinou,” which, in the language of their country, signifies, How are you? or, How do you do? The chief was a fine, stout old man, apparently about sixty-five years of age, and very active for a man of his years.

The natives of this country are very different, both in form and appearance, as well as in character, and possess more elasticity of temper than natives near the west coast. They are also more quick in their ideas, and have greater expression in their features; and are either very warm friends, or determined and persevering enemies. Their cranium differs considerably from that of the Mahees, the frontal bone being square and high, and altogether displaying greater powers of intellect. Here I was treated with much more kindness than I had anticipated, though nearly the whole of the natives were Mahomedans.

After being invited into the interior of the town, and seated in the court-yard of the palaver, we were presented with a large calabash of clean water, one of the chief’s principal men drinking first. A bottle-calabash was then handed to us full of wild honey, which is abundant here, and we were supplied with wood to make a fire to cook our breakfast. My people were now in tolerably good spirits, since we were so well received, and had got, or rather stolen, plenty of corn for our consumption for the whole day. We had also a very fine Guinea fowl as well as plenty of yams. We soon got the steam up, and my man speedily divested the fowl of its outer rigging by dipping it into some scalding water, and in about three-quarters of an hour we sat down to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast; after which, I expressed a wish to go over the town, which, although not a market-day, showed considerable bustle with only the usual daily trade.

This town contains a considerable number of workmen of different trades, all of whom seemed employed, except such of them as were occupied in reconnoitring the white stranger. The loom and the anvil are both of very simple construction here. The former is on the same principle as those in the Mahee and Dahoman countries, and in fact upon the same principle as our looms in England, though showing less workmanship. Their thread, though spun with the distaff, is very regular and strong. Bridles and saddles are manufactured here with considerable ingenuity; the dyeing of cloth and staining of leather are also well known here.

The natives seem contented and are in the enjoyment of plenty. But the extreme difference in the manners and habits as well as disposition of the natives of different towns is scarcely credible, though in the immediate vicinity of each other. I believe this depends a great deal upon their chiefs or rulers, whether they be tyrannical or mild in the administration of their government. Here I observed several beautiful crown-birds of large size, walking about the town, quite domesticated. They are certainly one of the most beautiful of the feathered tribe I ever saw. The soil here changed to a light sandy loam, resembling that between Abomey and Canamina.

We returned to the palaver-house, after our stroll round the town, followed by nearly all the natives, old and young. The caboceer, or chief, seemed pleased to have an opportunity of gratifying his people by the sight of a white man. At this town we obtained, to our satisfaction, some few articles of consumption in exchange for some of our own goods, namely, two fowls, some shalots, and a quantity of ground beans. We could not purchase a white fowl; for some reason unexplained they would only sell black ones. Now that we were secure of a supply of provision for this day and the following, we presented the chief with some trifling presents, and then proceeded on our journey rejoicing.

We were conducted out of the town by the chief and his people, with nearly the same ceremony as was observed when we entered. After we had passed the outer gate we parted from our friends, and proceeded onwards.

Nothing particular occurred worthy of observation, the country still bearing the same features as last described, until, at twenty-one miles we reached the large town of Quampanissa. This being the market-day, we entered the public or outer market without ceremony; but the atmosphere being close and moist from the great heat and evaporation, our march was fatiguing and oppressive, so that we were very glad to sit down, while I sent my Fellattah messenger to acquaint the chief, or gadadoo, as he is here called, with our arrival. During this time we were surrounded by nearly the whole of the people who were attending market, and so closely were we hemmed in that we were almost suffocated. In fact, those in the front of the crowd were involuntarily thrust almost upon us, from the pressure of those behind, in their anxiety to catch a sight of me, being to them a great curiosity. My horse and trappings seemed to create a great sensation.

In some large trees in this market-place was a cranery, the birds in which were composed of three different colours, and I believe of distinct species, namely, white, blue, and brown, like the sparrow-hawk. They are never allowed to be disturbed or molested in any way, either in the cranery or in its vicinity. In a short time the crowd dispersed with as much precipitation as they had collected, several people advancing with immense thongs of bullocks’ hides fastened to a handle, like a hunting-whip, and laying about them right and left indiscriminately upon all who came in their way. These, it appeared, were market-constables, who are employed by the king, or gadadoo, to preserve order, and protect property in the market. These people are paid by a tax upon a portion of every article of provision exposed. Upon other articles a duty is charged in cowries. These men were clearing a passage for their master to advance.

The procession was nearly the same as that I last described, with the exception of a stringed musical instrument of a different construction to any I had before observed. It is merely a plain piece of board, about twenty inches long and nine wide, with a piece of large bamboo cane laid across near each end, which forms the bridge, over which the strings, eight in number, pass. These strings are tightened or slackened in the same manner as our violin, but the instrument is slung from the shoulder, and is played guitar-fashion. The sound of this instrument appeared to me more musical than any native instrument I had yet heard, though near the coast I have seen instruments on a somewhat similar principle, being merely a small block of wood hollowed out, and a piece of hide with the hair shaven off covering over the concave part. This, when dry, becomes hard, and the strings are passed over two bridges, one at each end; but the sound of this instrument is not equal to that I have just described.

The chief conducted us into the inner market, where all was bustle and confusion. We marched into the centre, where seats were provided for us, although the chief and his people contented themselves with lying down during the palaver. We informed him of our purpose in visiting his country, and of our wish to overtake Terrasso-weea, for whom the chief professed great friendship. Here we cooked some of our provision, and remained to dine, the chief presenting us with some native ale (peto), but much staler than any I had before tasted. Probably this acidity was caused by its being kept too long. The articles exposed in this market were much the same as those I have previously mentioned, but the only native manufacture I saw was cloth.

After remaining about an hour and a half we again proceeded on our journey, and at thirty-one miles approached the town of Bidassoa; but it being late, and being uncertain how we might be received, we went a few hundred yards out of the path into a corn-plantation, and there encamped for the night. Here we kindled a fire, and again I put my small camp-kettle into requisition, and we had another feast, but not before the whole had been upset, and we had been compelled to go a considerable distance to procure more water.

This mishap was caused by my horse, which had always a particular propensity to paw the fire abroad whenever he was within reach of it. I had fastened it to my foot by its halter, but being near the fire, it upset the kettle and scraped the fire all abroad. We were now left to our own meditations, which were far preferable to being compelled to submit to the annoying ceremony always observed upon our entering a town. My people seemed also to enjoy the comfort of being alone. I had given each of my men a Jew’s harp of a large size, upon which they were desirous of learning to play. It gave me much pleasure to see them in such a contented mood; I therefore amused myself for a time in giving them lessons, till overcome with sleep. During the night we were obliged to keep up a good fire lest any of the wild beasts should feel inclined to make a meal of any of us. However, I enjoyed a tolerably good night’s repose, till awoke by my horse nibbling at my feet. I then aroused my men, who were still fast asleep, and our breakfast was soon prepared. I had made up my mind to avoid the town of Bidassoa, but upon consideration I deemed it more prudent to call, lest any unpleasant suspicions might arise owing to our seeming disrespect.

On the morning of the 28th July, we consequently entered the town, without being detained; the chief was already aware of our presence in his neighbourhood, and had already prepared himself to receive us. We were met at the outer gates by himself and retinue, and with nearly the same ceremony as was observed upon entering the two last towns. We were requested to follow him to the market, which is, in most instances, the place of palaver. Here we were supplied with water, and afterwards with palm-wine, but I felt not a little surprised to find the chief and his head men all partake of the same, for I had previously found the Mahomedans abstain from everything of a spirituous nature as intoxicating. In answer to my remarks respecting this difference, I was informed that this wine was original, and the production of one single tree, consequently was not rendered unclean by the addition or compound of any other substance; but they never partake of peto, though they do not interfere with Pagans for using such drink, neither do they interfere with the food of the latter.

Here certain days are strictly observed by not eating a black fowl; on other days the same is observed with respect to white fowls; neither will they eat anything which is killed previous to their seeing it. Many are so strict indeed that they will not eat anything unless killed by their own hands. I received at this place a present of a pair of turtle-doves, which are here abundant early in the mornings, but as soon as the sun becomes very powerful, they, as well as other birds, all disappear, and conceal themselves in the shade of the bushes and trees.

This town seems to supply many more than its own inhabitants with corn, their stores being considerable. Their manner of storing it is by building circular houses about ten feet high, in the bottom of which a hole of about six inches square is left to allow the grain to run out when wanted, which is done by drawing a slide which covers the hole.

The corn is poured in at the top, and is covered by a portable roof of frame-work similar to an umbrella, which is composed of palm and long grass, like reeds. This covering is removed at will to allow ventilation. These granaries are generally about eight feet in diameter, and are composed of clay or swish.[14]

Cloth of a good quality is manufactured in this town, and shea-butter is in abundance as at all other places. The inhabitants were very anxious to obtain a sight of a white man; but they considered my colour an exaggeration or omission of Nature, similar to some instances of white negroes whom I observed, though born of black parents. They seemed much amazed when told that all Europeans were white, like myself, but that some had hair as black as their own.

Earthen pots and a sort of thin brick or tile are made here for ornamenting certain parts of the dwellings of the richest inhabitants, and a great slave-market is also held, but not being market-day I saw no slaves exposed. In the inner markets, and even at the doors of the houses, goods are exposed every day for sale. Tobacco, which was quite common in the Mahee country, is rarely seen here.

After remaining about an hour and a half, and giving away some needles and thimbles, we informed the chief that we wished to depart on our journey. He pressed us to stop another day, but I expressed my anxiety to proceed. He said he was already aware of my being in quest of Terrasso-weea, who seemed to be a great favourite in this place also. We were then escorted to the outer gates, where, after the priests had repeated some part of the Koran as an intercession for our success and safety on our journey, we marched from Bidassoa, bearing N. 23° W., and varying during our day’s journey to 45° and 10° W. The land now became uneven and more rugged, with blocks of rock of a nature resembling slate, different to any thing I had before observed.

At four miles we reached a small kroom, where I observed very fine cattle, the land rising gently to the northwards, with shea-butter and palm-trees, and a small river running to the south-west. There was also abundance of very large buffaloes. A small market is held daily at this kroom, which is chiefly dependent upon travellers, being near the crossings of several paths leading to different large market-towns. The principal articles sold are kolla-nuts, with several sorts of ground beans and nuts, calavansas, and manioc-root, as well as kankie, ready cooked. Palm-wine is also sold here at a low rate to the natives.

There appeared to be but little manufacture in this place, except a few trifling articles of iron, and some wooden bowls, rudely carved and ornamented. We only halted here for a short time. At seven miles we passed through thick wood and swampy soil scarcely passable. Fruit-trees of various sorts were now very abundant and in full bearing, and very delicious and refreshing wild grapes hung in clusters over our heads: these were the green grape. The gwaba and yellow fig also abounded, with many other fruits with which I was unacquainted.

At ten miles we arrived at a kroom of about four hundred inhabitants. Here we saw a large number of horses of a small description. They much resembled our Hampshire foresters in shape, though a little finer breed. They were sold in this market at the rate of four heads of cowries, equal to four Spanish dollars on the west coast of Africa, but are of much greater value in the interior. Here we halted for an hour, and were tolerably well received by the caboceer, or head man, who seemed very ready to gratify our curiosity by showing us round his village.

The breed of cattle here is extremely handsome, and the sheep considerably larger than those in the Kong Mountains. We were shown two very large elephants, which had been taken near the swamp, where we were told they much abound, though we did not observe any in crossing it. I noticed a great number of female slaves, many of whom were very handsome; they also appeared remarkably cheerful and pleasant in their manner. Nightcaps are knitted by the natives in a similar manner to those in Great Britain. The loom is also plied here, but not to a great extent. Guinea fowls are very abundant, both in a wild and tame state; partridges are also plentiful in the neighbourhood. Here, as in nearly all other towns in this country, the kolla-nut seems a favourite article of commerce.

We fortunately procured some dried venison, which is delicious in flavour when made into soup, and seasoned with their different vegetables, amongst which I may mention the chili as invariably their principal seasoning. We gave in exchange for the venison treble its value. Their method of drying is simple: it is cut into pieces, dried before a large fire, and held occasionally in the smoke of the iron-wood, which, from its chemical properties, is considered preferable to any other sort of wood. Salt is never used, either in drying fish or venison. We were, as usual, escorted out of this kroom by the gadadoo, and again commenced our march.

The soil was again different, being of a moist sandy clay, and very productive. Here I observed several large sycamore-trees, as well as an ash, which was more rough in the bark than that of England. The beautiful acacia is invariably an ornamental plant in the towns and villages. As we passed I observed some very curious grasses, different to any I had previously observed, as well as heaths, and shrubs bearing fruits of various forms and flavour, but all of a yellow colour. They were very delicious and refreshing.

At twenty miles we arrived at the small town of Kosow. This is a pleasant little town, fenced in the usual way. Near the gates we observed a number of females busily employed in thrashing the Guinea corn on some flat rocks, by the side of a small lake or pond, but upon our approach they fled precipitately, and ran into the town. We remained, as customary, at the outer gate till the caboceer had been made aware of our presence. During the time we remained here several persons came within a few yards of us, apparently to obtain a sight of us; but immediately I turned my head to look at them, both males and females made a hasty retreat. The males were all armed both with bow and spear.

In a short time the gadadoo made his appearance on horseback. His little horse was richly caparisoned, with a very curious pad or saddle, covering nearly the whole of the horse’s back. The border of the shabrack was ornamented with letters or characters, apparently of the Persian or Arabic. Here we were received with great solemnity, although the venerable chief never suffered a smile to appear on his countenance until the ceremony was over. We were then led, as usual, into the palaver place, where we were supplied with seats carved out of the solid wood. Here we were strictly interrogated respecting our business in that country, to which I replied as I had to others. As usual, my assumed knowledge of Terrasso-weea seemed to give tolerable satisfaction; but a proposition was made that I should remain at Kosow until a messenger should be forwarded to Terrasso-weea, with a desire that he should meet me at Kosow. This proposal, however, I strongly objected to as likely to give offence.

My opposition to his proposal did not altogether seem to meet the chief’s approval. He next pretended to doubt whether we ought to be allowed to pass through the country without the great king of the country being made aware of our intentions. Again, however, the old man failed in his object, for my Fellattah soldier informed him that the great king of his country had already been made aware of our presence, and had also sanctioned our march through his dominions.

Being thus frustrated at all points, the old man demanded what white man was going to dash him, or what present he was going to make him. In return, I asked him what he intended to give me as a stranger visiting his country. He answered, that no white man had ever been in that country before, and it was very probable that no other might ever come again, and he should like to have something to hand down to his descendants as a memorial of a white man having once been there. Gain seemed his only object, and his wish to forward a messenger to Terrasso-weea was merely to detain me in order to have a chance of obtaining presents. I gave him some new gilt buttons, and a large Jew’s harp, as well as some needles, and two thimbles. I played several tunes upon the Jew’s harp, with which he seemed much delighted.

He then introduced me to his harem, which was composed of about one hundred and twenty females of considerable beauty, being much fairer than any I had seen since leaving Abomey. Their features and figures were very good, though their hair was woolly, but much longer than I had before seen of the woolly tribes. These women were all enclosed within a wall of about three feet and a half high. Some of them seemed gratified, while others seemed quite the reverse; but the chief’s females were not the only fair women in the place. The generality of the inhabitants were equally as fair. I was offered my choice of one for forty-two thousand cowries; but I informed the seller that I was not at present in want of any slaves, or a wife. This surprised him very much, for he declared that he himself could not live with less than twenty wives, but that he had a very great many more. He picked out his principal or favourite wife, to whom he introduced me, doubtless with a view of obtaining some presents for her; but I could not understand the hint, as I found my little stock fast decreasing.

After eating some of our dried venison with some roasted plantains, we resumed our journey; and at twenty-five miles, arrived at the river Ofo, but unfortunately we found no canoe, or anything to convert into a raft, to cross it. We were consequently obliged to make preparations for swimming across. One of my people carried a change of linen, and two pair of light trowsers, and some other articles of hardware, as presents, in a small carpet-bag. This we tied with the saddle to the horse’s back. My little horse was an excellent companion in the water, for, by holding the fastening rope of his headstall, he pulled me across with a rapidity scarcely credible.

I had an American life-preserver, but that had already nearly drowned me by bursting. I never, therefore, trusted to its buoyancy again. We crossed the river in safety, but of course all our clothes were wet. My bag on the horse’s back was quite wet upon the horse’s first plunge into the water. The two soldiers also got their muskets wet, but saved their powder, by placing it on their havresacks, and tying them on their head. My ammunition was also preserved dry in consequence of keeping it in a water-tight case.

Immediately after we had crossed the river, two men from Kosow made their appearance. The caboceer had made no mention of this river, and he undoubtedly expected, by sending men after us, to ferry us across at an enormous charge. It appeared that the caboceer of Kosow keeps a canoe for the purpose of ferrying people across the river, but it is placed at a small kroom, about half a mile higher up the river. Travellers with heavy loads cannot cross this river without employing the canoe. The men seemed much disappointed when they found that we had already crossed. The river Ofo is here thirty-five yards wide, and twenty feet deep, with a sandy bottom. The current is three miles and a half per hour, and runs in a south-east direction.

To ascertain the depth of rivers, I had prepared a lead with a bullet, boring a hole through it; through this I passed a small line of twine, leaving the lower side of the bullet countersunk; into this a piece of goat’s tallow is pressed. The twine is then passed through a very thin piece of wood about five inches square. If the river is very wide, and the crossing made by canoe, the line of course may be dropped over board as on board ship, but if you are obliged to swim, the ball and wood may be dropped on the water. The bullet of course sinks to the bottom, and draws the twine through the hole in the wood at the same time, till it reaches the bottom; the line being marked into feet, the depth is accurately ascertained. If a river is not more than forty yards wide, it may also be measured in the same way, by throwing the wood and ball into the middle of the river; taking care to coil the line carefully up previously to throwing it.

The banks of the river Ofo are low, not being more than three feet above the surface of the water. We remained on the bank of this river till we dried our clothes. Here we also cooked some provisions, and cleaned our guns. We then again resumed our journey; and, at twenty-eight miles, arrived at the large town of Kasso-Kano. This town is well built, and the houses well thatched. There are three market-days in the week here: this happened to be one of them, and though the afternoon was far advanced, the dealers were busily employed. Slaves were abundant, and many parents were publicly offering their children for sale, numbers of them not more than eleven or twelve years of age. They showed their slaves off, and purchasers scrutinized them with as much care as our horse-dealers at an English fair.

Here the women are modest and handsome, the men generally tall, thin, and sinewy. They are apparently very jealous of their women, and naturally covetous and suspicious, and moreover great thieves. The chief is a shrewd, cunning fellow, and, like all others in the same office, seems to monopolize in a great measure the greater portion of the trade in all articles of consumption.

The hills in this neighbourhood abound with iron, and another mineral substance resembling coal, but this mineral is not so abundant: it is probably antimony. I have forgotten its name. It was brought on board in small pieces (the largest not more than half an inch square) during the late Niger expedition, but it was extremely dear. It is used as and considered an infallible cure for inflammation in the eye, by merely rubbing it round it.

Here I had an opportunity of observing their system of smelting ore. The furnace is composed of finely-worked clay, nearly as hard as Roman cement. The dye-vats are composed of the same substance; the furnace is built of a circular form, and of about five or six feet diameter, and about eight feet high. From the top to the middle the furnace tapers inwards to the centre in the form of a funnel; it again widens from the middle to the bottom. At the bottom are fixed two pair of bellows, which are covered nearly over with earth, and kept constantly wet. The bellows are formed by cutting two large round holes in a large block of wood of the cotton-tree. The handles of the bellows are about a yard long, and about the thickness of the barrel of a musket. These are fixed into the centre of a circular piece of leather or hide at one end. This piece of hide is sufficiently large to cover the hole in the block of wood: it is put over this hole, and nailed round the edges. Besides the apertures there are two smaller holes, bored through the sides of the block to communicate with the large hole forming the body of the bellows. Over the mouth of the small hole, where it communicates with the body of the bellows, is a stopper or valve, which shuts close on the hole when the handle is pressed down. The two leather covers, being very loose, are raised up and down alternately, upon the same principle as the bellows used in England.

The man who blows takes the handles (which are perpendicular,) in each hand, and raises one hand up, and at the same time presses the other down, so that with the two bellows a constant blast is kept up. The pipe is frequently made of a sort of clay, similar to that used in coarse earthenware; but when such things can be procured, old gun-barrels, which have burst on the coast, not unfrequently find their way into the interior, and are sold at a very high price for this purpose. Guns in good condition are never suffered to pass into the interior, if the chiefs on or near the coast can prevent it.

But to describe the furnace: iron-wood charcoal, when it can be procured, is used for fuel. The furnace is then filled with a layer of charcoal and iron alternately, and then the fire is lighted at the bottom, and the blowing commences. Two and sometimes three hours elapse before a melting heat can be produced. The melting of the ore of course commences nearest the blower, and the fused metal falls into the bottom of the furnace, when some more ore supplies the place of that which is already melted. When the whole is melted, a stopper is drawn to let the liquid iron run into long narrow moulds, which have again to be melted previously to becoming fit for the hammer. This was the most efficient furnace I had yet seen, and the iron seemed remarkably tough and pliable. They seem ignorant of the method of hardening it, though swords and spear-heads, as well as arrow-heads, are manufactured in Kassokano.

The natives made several attempts to steal my camp-kettle, but my interpreter told them, as I clapped my hand to my sword, that I never hesitated to chop off an arm or a head, if I caught any one stealing my property. They told him he must not talk of cutting arms or heads off where we were only intruding strangers; but my interpreter assured them, that if their numbers were ten times more than they were, a white man cared not. If any man does him wrong, he kills him by some evil art, if not by the sword. Although this assertion was of course ridiculous, it appeared to have the desired effect.

After the gadadoo had finished his business, he again joined us, as we were lying down under a large tree, in the market-place. He offered us a hut during the remaining part of the night, but we found it so filthy, as to be uninhabitable, being merely a shed where the slaves had been kept for sale during the day. Both myself and men felt much annoyed at this, and we determined to leave the town, and encamp somewhere in the bush. We gave the gadadoo some small presents, but he seemed to have expected much more. I peremptorily refused to extend my gifts, and took my departure very abruptly, to proceed on my journey, never intimating any thing of my intention of encamping near the town.

We passed out of the town at the northern having entered at the southern gate, the path bearing N. 30° W., and at two miles from the town we turned some distance out of the path, where we found some rocks, and behind these we encamped for the night, but did not kindle a fire, lest we might be observed. Early in the morning I aroused my poor fellows, who were evidently beginning to show symptoms of having been over-marched; and, though I rode a great part of the distance, I found the wound in my leg getting every day larger. Still I determined to pursue my journey, and though my poor companions had several times hinted that the safest course was to turn back, I remembered the old adage, recommended by Captain Beaufort of the Admiralty, never to put my hand to the plough and look backward. I felt much for my men, but I dared not say any thing, lest they should take a resolution not to proceed.

FOOTNOTES:

[13] Assofoodah contains about twelve thousand inhabitants.

[14] Granaries of a similar construction have been noticed in the neighbourhood of Whydah.

CHAPTER VI.

Peculiar Breed of Dogs—The Town of Zabakano—Market Day—Native Manufactures—Domestic Slaves—Palm Oil—Joleeba, or Niger—Horses make part of the Family—Pelican Nest—Pigeons—Kindness of the Gadadoo—Pigeon Shooting—Palaver with the Gadadoo—Population—Mounted Soldiers—Character of the Scenery—Grooba—Manufactures—The Town of Sagbo—Drilling System general here—Two sorts of Rice—Received by the Gadadoo with great Pomp—Palaver—Dromedary and Elephant—Prevalent Diseases—The Town of Jakee—Reception—Ancient Custom—Breakfast of the Natives—Manufactures—Terror of the Natives—Chalybeate Springs—The River Jenoo—The Land Tortoise—Interesting Panorama—The Town of Kallakandi—Reception by the Sheik—Palaver—Band of Musicians—Peculiar Instruments—Manufactures, &c.—Slave Market—Horses—Laws-Cruel Punishment—Population—Attack on a Boa-Constrictor—Manufactures—Deer—Method of Preserving Meat and Fish—Trap for Wild Animals—Town of Ongo—Reception by the Caboceer—Interesting Aspect of the Country.

July 29th.—We kindled a fire, and made breakfast, and at sunrise we again commenced our journey from the neighbourhood of Kassokano. The country was much of the same character as that we had recently passed. Here I observed a particular species of dogs, much coarser than those in the Kong Mountains, where the breed is very much like the British greyhound though not so large. After passing over several small streams of good water, of which we had each a hearty draught, we, at seven miles, arrived at the large town of Zabakano. Here the King met me, and escorted me with two hundred horsemen. He was well acquainted, it appeared, with the priest Terrasso-weea.

This town is beautifully situated, commanding a view of the surrounding country to a great distance. The people seem cheerful and contented. This was one of the principal market-days, consequently I had an opportunity of observing the supplies of the different articles of trade and consumption. It was well supplied with native produce, and a greater quantity of rice was exposed than in any other market I have visited in Africa. Here, also, I was shown a large quantity of armlets and bracelets, manufactured with considerable taste and skill in Bornou, and brought thither by Terrasso-weea’s trading party. Tanning and dyeing are also executed skilfully; and sandals and a peculiar sort of slippers are here manufactured, similar to those we found in Tangiers.

The chief possesses a great number of domestic slaves, but sells none of them. They are chiefly employed in trading with the surrounding towns and in tilling the soil, which is in a high state of cultivation, to a considerable distance round. Palm-oil is manufactured here, and is actually transported, by the tributary navigable streams, to the Niger, or Joleeba, the name by which it is here known. Here it is not known either by the name of Quarra or Niger, but this circumstance is not at all surprising, for I find that all the rivers have different names in the various countries through which they flow. I have also, in many instances, found two places with the same name, at no very great distance from each other; but, in fact, the same may be observed in our own country. Native iron and nitre were abundant in this market.

Horses here invariably make part of the family, being fastened to a peg driven into the ground or floor, by the hind foot, having only about a foot of rope. The children are often seen playing between the legs of the animal, with which it seems much pleased, often nibbling at their heads with its lips, or licking their faces, as a spaniel would.

The chief seemed very anxious to acquaint us with every thing which might tend to our gratification; and, though he was the principal trader himself, he accompanied us through every part of the town. Close to the town is a lake, supplied partly by a small stream, and partly by the heavy rains during the season. On this lake were a number of large trees, upon which were the nests of the pelican, a great number of which we saw roosting on the branches. I had never seen the nest of the pelican on a tree since I was in Egga, a town on the banks of the Niger, when I was there with the late unfortunate expedition under Captain Trotter. I then shot several on the trees; but here, at Zabakano, the inhabitants had an objection to my killing any of them; I could not therefore secure a specimen. Pigeons were very numerous here, both the wood-pigeon and the turtle-dove. The chief did not object to my shooting these, so I soon secured sufficient for my party for this and the following day. We were obliged to cook them immediately.

We were, however, very kindly treated by the chief or gadadoo, who strongly urged us to remain a day with him. This kind treatment seemed to inspire my poor fellows with fresh courage and animation; in fact, it seemed to act as a fresh stimulus to all of us. The natives were quite delighted with the sport of pigeon-shooting, for one or two of them were acquainted with such guns as had found their way to this town, and several others in the neighbourhood, but of the locks they had no idea; for guns are not allowed to be brought here by way of trade in a perfect state, and even were they, still without powder they would be useless.

The chief has a very large number of wives, but the principal portion of them are merely employed as his domestic slaves, as indeed are all the wives of the uncivilized Africans. The civilized portion is very limited, even on the coast. The gadadoo made me a very liberal offer for my carbine, but I told him that it would not be of so much service to him as his bow or sabre, unless he had a supply of ammunition; that as I had visited his country partly with a view to ascertain what articles would be most likely to suit their markets, I should, as soon as possible, return with a large stock of suitable merchandise. A story like this was much more likely to be believed amongst savages than any other excuse I could make for visiting their country. If told that my object was merely for scientific purposes, they would not have understood me, and would have been more likely to look upon me with suspicion, as they cannot believe any body can take interest about any thing not of a pecuniary nature.

This town contains about nine thousand inhabitants; it is clean and open, but I was informed that after the conclusion of the rainy season fever and small-pox are very prevalent. Small-pox is much dreaded by the natives, and seems to be the principal disease here. I have not observed one case of elephantiasis since leaving Accra, although at Whydah a disease of a similar nature is prevalent, affecting the head, and not unfrequently enlarging the forehead and eyebrows so much as totally to obscure vision. This distortion of nature, as may be supposed, has an extremely repulsive appearance.

After remaining about an hour and a half, I gave the gadadoo some small presents, which he received with apparent satisfaction. He and his head men, as well as his two hundred mounted soldiers, then conveyed me some distance from the town, going through their manœuvres of attack at the same time. This was merely a wild rush without any order or discipline, and so far from their being (as has been represented) a formidable force, ten well-mounted and well-disciplined horsemen would easily annihilate the whole party.

Here we parted from the most generous and affable chief we had met with since leaving the Mountains of Kong. During this day’s journey, our bearing changed from N. 45° W. to 12° 10°, 35°, 43°, and due West (true). The country now became very pleasant, and the path not so rough under foot. Around us in different directions were numerous hills, giving a relief to the dull sameness of a flat, dreary plain. We crossed several small clear streams, some of which had worn their channels nine or ten feet deep.

At fourteen miles we arrived at the small town of Grooba. Here the old chief, or head man, received us very kindly; doubtless, he had received a message which prompted this friendly reception. This town is clean and neat for an African town. The only manufacture of note here is cotton tobes, but different in pattern to the cloths manufactured in the Kong Mountains, which are invariably striped with various colours; but here the cloth is all either blue or white, similar to the tobes worn by the Mandingo traders who visit Sierra Leone. Here the blacksmith plies his trade, but only for the accommodation of the inhabitants of the town. A sort of cloth is also manufactured from the inner bark of a certain tree, which is very strong and durable, and of various colours. This when woven into cloth has a very rich appearance; long sashes or girdles of the same material are worn by most of the influential persons.

At seventeen miles we halted by a small stream and kindled a fire, where we cooked some of our pigeons, and had an excellent dinner. We afterwards resumed our journey, and at twenty-eight miles arrived at the town of Sagbo. Around this town the country is well cultivated, and the drilling system seemed generally adopted. This is, doubtless, an advantage during the rainy season. Four different sorts of maize are cultivated here, as well as two sorts of rice, white and red. Here they have a better mode of cleaning and preparing the rice for use than any other place I have yet visited. The kolla-nut is abundant, as also the palm and shea-butter nut. Indigo is cultivated, and rudely manufactured in nearly all the towns we passed since leaving the Mahee country.

The chief and his head men and bowmen received us in a similar manner as at other places, with great pomp and solemnity, his priests taking the lead in conducting us into the market-place, advancing at a slow pace and repeating some select portion from the Koran. This ceremony, upon the whole, reminded me of a funeral procession in England. After we reached the palaver place in the market, we were invited to sit down, and water was handed to us. Nothing else, however, of a liquid nature was offered us. We were, as usual, interrogated as to our purpose in visiting the country. These questions I answered to the same effect as I had previously done. My reply seemed to give general satisfaction. The chief was surrounded by bowmen and spearmen, many of whom were very fine-looking men. During this time, the chief, or sheik, as he is here called, amused himself by playing with his beard, rather an uncommon ornament amongst these people, and highly esteemed. We were presented with two fowls by one of the head men, to whom in return I gave two papers of needles.

This town is well supplied with good water, and the cattle, both sheep and oxen, are very handsome; the horses are small, but well bred. The dromedary and elephant are here to be met with tame. The sugar-cane is also cultivated, and very large, but not manufactured. The liquor after boiling the cane is used mixed with the meal of the Indian corn, instead of, or rather as we use tea or coffee; sometimes a little ginger, which grows here spontaneously, is added to it. This is a very wholesome and palatable beverage.

Here the small-pox had made dreadful havoc amongst the inhabitants, and was still destroying numbers daily. The sheik or chief took great interest in my recommendation to inoculate from the cow-pox, and several times put the question to me, whether I could not myself perform the operation, and instruct his doctors, of whom he has a great number. I excused myself for want of material, or matter. The inhabitants vary very much in colour, which proves the undoubted mixture of the tribes from distant countries. The greater part of the inhabitants of Sagbo are very dark, tall, and well formed. The general development of their cranium is good; they are very keen traders, cheerful and affable, and nearly all Mahomedans.

I was, as usual, obliged to draw on my little stock, which was now fast diminishing, and to give a few needles and a thimble, as well as a Jew’s harp, to the chief, who deemed the Jew’s harp a wonderful piece of consecrated iron. We then recommenced our journey, the country bearing the same very pleasant aspect, and with trees a little larger than I had met with during my last four days’ journey.

After a rather tiresome march, we arrived, at thirty-eight miles, at the town of Jakee. The chief of this town is subject to the chief of Sagbo, who directs or governs six large towns in his own locality. It appeared that a private messenger had been despatched from Sagbo to inform the chief of this town of my coming. The same messenger was with the chief of Jakee when he met me half a mile from the town. The old man received me with marked courtesy, and without much ceremony we were conducted into his court-yard.

As it was getting late, and we had expressed our intention of remaining all night, the chief readily showed us an apartment or hut, in his own court-yard, where we were to repose for the night; and upon our informing him of our long journey, he seemed to sympathize with us, and in a great measure dispensed with the usual palaver, but joined us in our quarters, where he seemed delighted to receive information respecting white man’s country, and also of the country we had passed through. He expressed his great surprise that a man should venture so far from his home and relations, and run the risk of casualties in so many strange lands. This man had by some means heard of the unfortunate Niger expedition, probably from Terrasso-weea, with whom he has been long acquainted. He took great interest in the trade of his own town, and expressed a great desire to know by what means he might increase it. We were rather annoyed during the early part of the evening by numerous curious visitors who came to have a peep at us, and some watchfulness was required, though we had little to be robbed of; however, it was the more necessary to preserve the little we had got.

30th July.—Early in the morning we were aroused by the ringing of a number of bells or gong-gongs, which, in accordance with an ancient custom, are rung round the town every morning at day-break to apprise the inhabitants that it is time to get up. These gong-gongs are used also to give the alarm in case of any sudden attack upon the town. As soon as this procession had passed, the chief paid us a visit, and inquired very kindly after our health. We were supplied with a quantity of the juice of the sugar-cane, and some meal mixed with it, about the consistence of gruel. Upon this we made a hearty breakfast, with the addition of some round balls, about the size of a potato, made from an under-ground bean, which is very abundant in this country. This bean is ground into meal and made into round balls. It is then fried in an earthen pot with palm-oil, and used for food. It is of a tolerably good flavour.

After distributing some needles and Jew’s harps, we recommenced our journey. During this day our bearing varied from N. 25° W. to 12°, 35°, 40°, and 22° N. towards W. At six miles we arrived at a small market on the path for the sale of provisions to travellers. Here they also sold water, which is at all times a bad omen for travellers, as showing its scarcity. We secured a calabash filled with water for a paper of needles, which seemed to take well in this part of the country. We were, however, happily mistaken in our fears respecting water in this instance, for, at ten miles, we arrived at a small village called Kiroaso, where we found plenty of good water. This kroom is famous for its tan-pits and dye-vats: the inhabitants of several towns at a distance visit this place for the purpose of dyeing their cloths and thread. Besides the indigo, they have a yellow and red colour which they manufacture, with which they dye both leather and cloth. Here the natives carve quantities of wooden bowls out of the cotton-tree with considerable taste. They seemed much alarmed at our presence, many of them running away upon our approach. As soon, however, as they learned that we were friends, they returned and would soon have become too familiar. We remained here only a short time, and then resumed our journey; and, at nineteen miles, arrived at the Kabra Mountains, along the sides of which we travelled, passing several small krooms or towns at their base, some of which we entered.

We found here several chalybeate springs, strongly impregnated with carbonate of iron of a deep orange colour. At twenty-five miles we arrived at the river Jenoo. This river is navigable by large canoes at all seasons of the year. It runs to the eastward, and is fordable at this season by persons on foot, not exceeding three feet and a half deep, with sandy bottom, and not more than twelve yards wide, with a current not exceeding two miles per hour. Fish, however, are not very abundant, as the natives are unacquainted with the method of catching them; I observed, therefore, very few for sale. It is rather singular that the conchology of all the inland rivers in this part of Africa is very limited, a sort of mussel being the only shell which I observed.

Of the crustaceous tribes a sort of shrimp or prawn is the only thing I noticed. The land-tortoise, however, is abundant on the banks of rivers, and is used by the natives for food. Having halted a short time after crossing the river, we again resumed our journey, passing amongst some beautiful shrubs and sweet-scented climbing plants, whose blossoms spread a sweet odour for a considerable distance. We marched some miles through this interesting panorama before we again reached the open plain. Here the soil again assumed a lighter colour, of a gravelly nature, and studded with trees of various kinds. The soil and small brooks still proved the presence of iron.

At thirty-four miles we arrived at the town of Kallakandi. Here we were tolerably well received by the sheik, or gadadoo, who seems intrusted with the government of a certain district of considerable extent. It appeared that he had only obtained intelligence of our approach a little while previous to our arrival, and was therefore flurried, and a little cautious and reserved in receiving us; but being acquainted with our object of overtaking Terrasso-weea, he became at once familiar, and informed us that he had occupied, with all his retinue, the very quarters assigned to me for the night.

We entered into conversation or palaver, which continued until dark. He seemed very intelligent, and had by his own account been at Timbuctoo, and gave exactly the same account of the place as the Mahomedan priest at Abomey, who stated he had accompanied Terrasso-weea thither. The sheik very kindly sent us two ducks of the Muscovy breed to cook for our supper, as also two yams and some corn, with plenty of good water. He again joined us after supper, seeming eager to obtain information. At length he proposed to retire, which was very agreeable to us, for we were very tired. He promised to call us early in the morning, to which arrangement he was very punctual, for certainly he aroused us some time sooner than we wished. This being market-morning, the town was all bustle.

Soon after we had been aroused by the gadadoo, we were visited by a band of singing women, who were accompanied by musicians, with instruments very similar to our German flute, made from the hollow cane and bottle-shaped gourds, with the pulpy part taken out and dried, with hundreds of human teeth strung together like beads, and loosely fastened like net-work over the gourd, which were shaken in the hand, keeping time to the other instruments used in the native bands of music: a similar instrument is used in Dahomey. Prostration on addressing a superior is common here, though they do not rub themselves with dust as in Dahomey or the Mahee country. I took a short ramble round the town and market-places, both the outer and inner.

Here I had an opportunity of observing the articles of commerce exposed for sale, which, however, differed very little from those I have already mentioned in other places. Smiths’ work is done here in a superior manner to most other towns I have visited. Axes and bill-hooks are made here; the axe is made to fit into the handle, instead of the handle into the axe, the crown or pole of the axe being made like a spike, and driven into a hole passed through the end of the handle. They are also excellent farmers. The weavers also display considerable taste in the manufacture of a peculiar sort of cloth I have not observed elsewhere but in Abomey.

Slaves were exposed in the outer market in great numbers, and early in the morning considerable numbers had changed owners. Sheep, goats, and oxen, are numerous, and very handsome. Horses are handsome also, but small, few exceeding thirteen hands high. Pigeons are numerous in this town, and are of various kinds. The vulture is common in all the towns in this country. The government may be said to be quite despotic, for though a certain power is pretended to be vested in the chief malaam, or minister, still every objection is overruled in acquiescence with the will of the sovereign.

Offenders against the laws are punished according to the estimated enormity of their crimes, by flagellation or imprisonment in irons, and labour in the fields; but all serious offences, such as those against the king, murder, and adultery with the wives of superiors, are punished by death and torture of the most barbarous description. Sometimes a pole, about six feet long, is prepared, with an iron hose fixed on the end of it; the iron being tapered to a long spike. This spike is made red-hot, and the culprit, being suddenly seized, is placed on his head with his legs or feet upwards. The spike, while red-hot, is passed into the lower part of his person and the bowels, and even to the crown of his head.[15] This mode of torture is only resorted to in cases of adultery with the king’s or malaam’s wives. Sometimes another mode of torture for similar offences is resorted to, equally barbarous and cruel—that of mutilation, and placing it in the mouth of the offender.

After promising to make a longer stay on my return, I marched from Kallakandi, this being the 31st of July, bearing N. 22° westward; during the day’s journey varying from 22° to 5°, 10°, 5°, and 12° degrees to westward. The country near the town was well cultivated. At seven miles we crossed a narrow river running eastward; and at twelve miles arrived at the town of Gooba. This is also a great market for the sale and purchase of slaves. Here salt is sold, but at a very high price, though of a very coarse and dirty description.

The town is governed by a malaam, named Dibo or Dibbo. He, however, is under the directions of the gadadoo of Kallakandi. The inhabitants of this town are about seven thousand in number, and seem a mixture of many tribes, which is easily detected by the cranium, independent of the particular marks or scars on the face to distinguish each tribe from the other. They seem to live in ease and plenty, having little trouble in cultivating the soil, which here produces four crops in the year of several sorts of grain.

We remained here only a short time, when, after making a present of a pair of small scissors for some water, with which we were presented, we resumed our journey. At fourteen miles, while crossing a swamp of no great magnitude, we were met by a number of women, heavily laden with different articles of produce for the market which we had just left. They were accompanied by several men, who walked in the rear. The women we found had been much alarmed a minute before, but seemed still more so at meeting me, some of the younger women endeavouring to pass into the thick impenetrable bush, which extended about half a mile along each side of the path. The men also seemed much alarmed, and the older of them, who were armed with bows and arrows, prepared themselves for an attack. However, they preferred submission, prostrating themselves as we passed. I requested them to rise, and after asking them how they were, they informed us of the extreme danger of passing any farther, till an enormous snake which they had just met should retire. They stated that this reptile had taken up his position in a large tamarind-tree, whence they said he had been in all probability compelled to retreat after a combat with a panther, which they said invariably practised one particular mode of attack. Whenever they come unexpectedly upon one of these reptiles, they pounce upon its tail, and thus prevent it from coiling itself round its prey. Then with its claw it secures the head, which is immediately brought round to release its tail. However, I never witnessed an attack of this sort, and must leave my readers to judge of the truth of this assertion. One of the party offered to go back and show us the enormous snake, and several others of the party volunteered their services also.

Accordingly we proceeded about six hundred yards, when we arrived at the velvet tamarind-tree, which they had spoken of, and which was thickly covered with leaves; but upon examining the tree we could not observe anything of the nature described. When I was just upon the point of accusing them of hoaxing us, one of them, who stood a little behind my horse, suddenly called out “waroo-waroo,” upon which one of my soldiers seized my bridle to pull my horse aside, and to my amazement the monster was pointed out to me with part of its body coiled round a bough, and its head and a considerable part of its body hanging down very near our heads.

It appeared this reptile had descended the tamarind, and had ascended a much larger tree of a different description. I immediately dismounted, and unstrapped my double-barrelled carbine, which was heavily charged, one barrel with swan-shot, and the other with smaller shot. The snake was certainly of enormous dimensions, and remained quite motionless. I took a steady aim at the neck, just behind its head, and fired the charge of slugs effectually, though for some time it seemed to have but a slight effect upon it, for it raised its head, and coiled the fore-part of the body round another branch of the tree; but the spine being injured, it soon appeared to lose strength, and the tail, which was coiled round a limb, began to relax. It again uncoiled its fore-part, which hung down towards the ground. I then took my sword, which I had sharpened equal to a razor, and cut the head off at one stroke; but even then the people would not venture to touch it with their hands to pull it down, till I gave them a piece of small cord, which I invariably carried in my pocket. This was fastened round the body, and they then succeeded in pulling it down.

The monster was of the boa tribe, and measured thirty-one feet long, but the natives told me they had seen them much larger. My gun and sword excited great astonishment amongst the strangers, who were very anxious again to hear the noise. They seemed to fancy that it was the noise which killed the object the muzzle of the gun was directed towards; this I did not contradict. Here we were detained nearly an hour, when we again commenced our march, I and my people keeping a cautious look-out lest some more of our late antagonist’s companions might be in our immediate neighbourhood.

We were soon clear of the bush, and our adventure speedily forgotten. At sixteen miles we arrived at a small kroom, the houses of which were all built of a circular form, the walls covered with a deep red clay, and many of the principal houses ornamented with different figures and hieroglyphics. The chief manufacture in this kroom is earthen pots of a superior description and jet-black polish. Pipes, or rather pipe-heads, are also manufactured here, though little tobacco reaches this place; but I learned that these pipes are sent even to Badagry. Their form is like the meerschaum. The natives also manufacture a very ingenious sort of lamp, in which palm-oil is used.

The chief of this kroom had in his possession a pot which attracted my notice. It was of copper, and evidently of Spanish manufacture. It had been in the possession of his family, it appeared, for many years, but he could not inform me from whom they had obtained it. There exists in this neighbourhood a species of small black deer, not larger than a small English terrier, some of which are here domesticated like the goat.

The country also abounds with larger deer of different descriptions, one of which I this day had the satisfaction of shooting, having cautiously crept behind a bush very near to him. There were a doe and fawn of the same description, at a short distance, grazing. This chance would have supplied us with plenty of venison for consumption for several days could we have kept it fresh. What we did not require the first day we broiled in the smoke, and kept it very well for the second day. This is the method adopted by the natives in drying and preserving both meat and fish. Even when a human head is desired to be preserved, the brains are extracted through the spinal connexion and the head held on the end of a stick in the smoke till it becomes quite hard and dry. I have seen some thousands preserved in this way in Dahomey.

Wild carnivorous animals are very numerous here, and often make awful havoc amongst the stock of cattle, though traps of various inventions are employed (some of which would do credit to English ingenuity) to destroy them. An immense beam, with long spikes of hard wood fixed in it, is suspended about seven feet high. This beam rests on a pivot at each end. When the animal passes under and between the two pivots, he treads upon a lever which throws the beam off the pivots, and it falls with full weight on the animal, forcing the spikes their full length into its body. They have also man-traps of a very singular construction: these, though simple, are the most efficient I ever saw. They are always placed in situations where none but trespassers can be injured. This trap is generally set in a fence, so that a person climbing over must come in contact with a certain part of it, which secures a piece of wood connected with another of about seven feet long, which latter is bent about two feet out of its natural position. The slightest touch releases this, and the spring resumes its natural position in a moment. In doing so it strikes the intruder on the shins with such violence as frequently to break both legs.

At twenty-six miles we arrived at the town of Ongo, where we found the chief awaiting our arrival, about half a mile out of the town, with a number of horsemen and spearmen. Upon perceiving us he immediately advanced towards us at a gallop, the spearmen keeping pace with the others, though on foot. When within a few yards of us the whole cavalcade suddenly halted, and the chief and his principal officers dismounted, and all, except himself, prostrated themselves, remaining in that position till they were told to rise. The chief merely held out his hand, repeating the words, “Sinou, sinou,” which means, How are you?—how are you?—and gave my hand a hearty shake, bidding us welcome to his town. He said he had been made aware of our approach, and had prepared himself to meet us. He declared himself glad to see a white man, Terrasso-weea, he stated, was his particular friend, and had a white man with him, but not a proper white man like myself. He told me that Terrasso-weea’s trading party were all good men, and were his brothers, meaning that they were all Mahomedans.

Here we remained to cook some provisions. We were fortunate enough to obtain in exchange for a pair of scissors some good yams and a small grass bag of rice, containing about a pound. We also got plenty of water, which was tolerably good, but of a bitterish taste. This is frequently the case when the water is stagnant, and a certain sort of wood grows on its margin. Whether this is injurious or not I am not able to say, as I did not experience any evil effects myself, nor any of my party, from its use. The country now became delightful, and the monotony of a dreary plain was relieved at intervals by table mountains in various directions, nearly all of one height, not exceeding nine thousand feet.

This place is neatly built for an African town, and with considerable regularity of formation as regards the market-places for the sale of different commodities. The houses are very clean, and are ornamented with various designs, similar to those I have just described. The horse, as I have already said, invariably forms a part of the family, and is treated much better than on the coast, where they are not bred, but brought from the interior. Even here, however, many of the poor animals are very lean for want of sufficient food, as they are always tied by the foot, and are never allowed their liberty.

FOOTNOTES: