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Joannes Evelyn Armr
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ACETARIA
A DISCOURSE OF
SALLETS
By JOHN EVELYN, Eſq.
Author of the Kalendarium
BROOKLYN,
Published by the Women's Auxiliary,
BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN
1937
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Printed in the United States of America
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Publisher's Note
This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of 1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have been carefully followed; also the old-style S [ſ] has been retained. Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly; and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of a more recent generation.
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Foreword to Acetaria
John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life. Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the supreme achievement of English culture.
Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence."
Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and buildings [pg] in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary.
In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books, one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener; instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "Les Delices de la Campagne." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons, consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees.
The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from [pg] the Greek, political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of Chalcography and Engraving in Copper."
Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac.
The material for Acetaria was gathered as early as 1679 with the idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. The Plan of a Royal Garden, was Evelyn's outline for that ambitious work.
The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are [pg] cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes, "salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly good.
The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to prepare new dishes.
Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn.
Helen M. Fox
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Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition
ACETARIA.
A
DISCOURSE
OF
SALLETS.
By J.E. S.R.S. Author of
the Kalendarium.
Ου παντος ανδρος εσιν αρτυσια καλως [Greek: Ou pantos andros hesin artusia kalôs.]
Crat. in Glauc.
LONDON,
Printed for B. Tooke at the Middle-
Temple Gate in Fleetstreet, 1699.
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To the Right Honourable
JOHN
Lord Somers
of Evesham
Lord High-Chancellor of England,
and President of the Royal-Society.
My Lord,
T he Idea and Plan of the Royal-Society having been firſt conceiv'd and delineated by a Great and Learned Chancellor, which High Office your Lordſhip deservedly bears; not as an Acquiſition of Fortune, but your Intellectual Endowments; [pg] Conſpicuous (among other Excellencies) by the Inclination Your Lordſhip diſcovers to promote Natural Knowledge: As it juſtifies the Diſcernment of that Aſſembly, to pitch upon Your Lordſhip for their Preſident, ſo does it no leſs diſcover the Candor, yea, I preſume to ſay, the Sublimity of your Mind, in ſo generouſly honoring them with your Acceptance of the Choice they have made.
A [1]Chancellor, and a very Learned Lord, was the Firſt who honoured the Chair; and a no leſs Honorable and Learned Chancellor, reſigns it to Your Lordſhip: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardſhips the Society [pg] has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and Protection of its Preſidents, not only preſerv'd its Reputation from the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on Culminating, and now Triumphantly in Your Lordſhip: Under whoſe propitious Influence, I am perſwaded, it may promiſe it ſelf That, which indeed has hitherto been wanting, to juſtifie the Glorious Title it bears of a ROYAL SOCIETY. The Emancipating it from ſome Remaining and Diſcouraging Circumſtances, which it as yet labours under; among which, that of a Precarious and unſteady Abode, is not the leaſt.
This Honor was reſerv'd for Your Lordſhip; and an Honor, permit me [pg] to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greateſt Person living: Namely, the Eſtabliſhing and Promoting Real Knowledge; and (next to what is Divine) truly ſo called; as far, at leaſt, as Humane Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire beyond the Land of Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult Qualities, and other Inadequate Notions; which, by their Obſtreperous and Noiſy Diſputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from adventuring on further Diſcoveries, confin'd them in a lazy Acquieſcence, and to be fed with Fantaſms and fruitleſs Speculations, which ſignifie nothing to the ſpecifick Nature of Things, [pg] solid and uſeful knowledge; by the Inveſtigation of Cauſes, Principles, Energies, Powers, and Effects of Bodies, and Things Viſible; and to improve them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind.
My Lord, That which the Royal Society needs to accompliſh an entire Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumſtances more eaſie) capable to ſubſiſt with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its Inſtitution, is an Eſtabliſhment in a more Settl'd, Appropriate, and Commodious Place; having hitherto (like the Tabernacle in the Wilderneſs) been only Ambulatory for almoſt Forty Years: But Solomon built the Firſt Temple; and what forbids us to hope, [pg] that as Great a Prince may build Solomon's Houſe, as that Great Chancellor (one of Your Lordſhip's Learned Predeceſſors) had deſign'd the Plan; there being nothing in that Auguſt and Noble Model impoſſible, or beyond the Power of Nature and Learned Induſtry.
Thus, whilſt King Solomon's Temple was Conſecrated to the God of Nature, and his true Worſhip; This may be Dedicated, and ſet apart for the Works of Nature; deliver'd from those Illuſions and Impoſtors, that are ſtill endeavouring to cloud and depreſs the True, and Subſtantial Philoſophy: A ſhallow and Superficial Inſight, wherein (as that Incomparable Perſon rightly obſerves) having [pg] made ſo many Atheiſts: whilſt a profound and thorow Penetration into her Receſſes (which is the Buſineſs of the Royal Society) would lead Men to the Knowledge, and Admiration of the Glorious Author.
And now, My Lord, I expect ſome will wonder what my Meaning is, to uſher in a Trifle, with ſo much Magnificence, and end at last in a fine Receipt for the Dreſſing of a Sallet with an Handful of Pot-Herbs! But yet, My Lord, this Subject, as low and deſpicable as it appears, challenges a Part of Natural History, and the Greateſt Princes have thought it no Diſgrace, not only to make it their Diverſion, but their Care, and to promote and encourage it in the midſt [pg] of their weightieſt Affairs: He who wrote of the Cedar of Libanus, wrote alſo of the Hyſop which grows upon the Wall.
To verifie this, how much might I ſay of Gardens and Rural Employments, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular Buſineſs, and that in the Eſtimate of as Great Men as any Age has produc'd! And it is of ſuch Great Souls we have it recorded; That after they had perform'd the Nobleſt Exploits for the Publick, they ſometimes chang'd their Scepters for the Spade, and their Purple for the Gardiner's Apron. And of theſe, ſome, My Lord, were Emperors, Kings, Conſuls, Dictators, and Wiſe Stateſmen; who amidſt the most [pg] important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleaſure: Nor that of the moſt refin'd Part of Agriculture (the Philoſophy of the Garden and Parterre only) but of Herbs, and wholeſom Sallets, and other plain and uſeful Parts of Geoponicks, and Wrote Books of Tillage and Husbandry; and took the Plough-Tackle for their Banner, and their Names from the Grain and Pulſe they ſow'd, as the Marks and Characters of the higheſt Honor.
But I proceed no farther on a Topic ſo well known to Your Lordſhip: Nor urge I Examples of ſuch Illuſtrious Perſons laying aſide their Grandeur, and even of deſerting their Stations; [pg] (which would infinitely prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm) But to ſhew how conſiſent the Diverſions of the Garden and Villa were, with the higheſt and buſieſt Employment of the Commonwealth, and never thought a Reproch, or the leaſt Diminution to the Gravity and Veneration due to their Perſons, and the Noble Rank they held.
Will Your Lordſhip give me Leave to repeat what is ſaid of the Younger Pliny, (Nephew to the Naturaliſt) and whom I think we may parallel with the Greateſt of his time (and perhaps of any ſince) under the Worthieſt Emperor the Roman world ever had? A Perſon of vaſt Abilities, Rich, [pg] and High in his Maſter's Favour; that ſo Husbanded his time, as in the Midſt of the weightieſt Affairs, to have Anſwer'd, and by his [2]Example, made good what I have ſaid on this Occaſion. The Ancient and beſt Magiſtrates of Rome allow'd but the Ninth Day for the City and Publick Buſineſs; the reſt for the Country and the Sallet Garden: There were then fewer Cauſes indeed at the Bar; but never greater Juſtice, nor better Judges and Advocates. And 'tis hence obſerved, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among the Ancients, qui nullos habuit hortos, [pg] excepting only Pomponius Atticus; wilſt his Dear Cicero profeſſes, that he never laid out his Money more readily, than in the purchaſing of Gardens, and thoſe ſweet Retirements, for which he ſo often left the Roſtra (and Court of the Greateſt and moſt flouriſhing State of the World) to viſit, prune, and water them with his own Hands.
But, My Lord, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a Gardiner ought not to be ſo bold. The preſent I humbly make your Lordſhip, is indeed but a Sallet of Crude Herbs: But there is among them that which was a Prize at the Iſthmian Games; and Your Lordſhip knows who it was both accepted, and rewarded as deſpicable [pg] an Oblation of this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordſhip's Pardon for this Preſumption. The Subject is mean, and requires it, and my Reputation in danger; should Your Lordſhip hence ſuſpect that one could never write ſo much of dreſſing Sallets, who minded anything ſerious, beſides the gratifying a Senſual Appetite with a Voluptuary Apician Art.
Truly, My Lord, I am ſo far from deſigning to promote thoſe Supplicia Luxuriæ, (as Seneca calls them) by what I have here written; that were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to their Priſtine Diet, yet to a much more wholſome and temperate than is now in Faſhion: And what if they find me [pg] like to ſome who are eager after Hunting and other Field-Sports, which are Laborious Exerciſes? and Fiſhing, which is indeed a Lazy one? who, after all their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either: For ſome ſuch I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm ſo of my ſelf, (when a well dreſt and excellent Sallet is before me) I am yet a very moderate Eater of them. So as to this Book-Luxury, I can affirm, and that truly what the Poet ſays of himſelf (on a leſs innocent Occaſion) Laſciva pagina, vita proba. God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd in Praiſe of Sallets, I ſhould be thought to plead for the Vice I cenſure, and chuſe that of Epicurus for my Lemma; In hac arte [pg] conſenui; or to have ſpent my time in nothing elſe. The Plan annext to theſe Papers, and the Apparatus made to ſuperſtruct upon it, would acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on Sallets only. What I humbly offer Your Lordſhip, is (as I ſaid) Part of Natural Hiſtory, the Product of Horticulture, and the Field, dignified by the moſt illuſtrious, and ſometimes tilled Laureato Vomere; which, as it concerns a Part of Philoſophy, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to have taken ſome Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the Royal Society.
But, My Lord, wilſt You read on (if at leaſt You vouchſafe me that Honor to read at all) I am conſcious [pg] I rob the Publick of its moſt Precious Moments.
I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordſhip's Pardon: Nor indeed needed I to have ſaid half this, to kindle in Your Breaſt, that which is already ſhining there (Your Lordſhip's Eſteem of the Royal Society) after what You were pleas'd to Expreſs in ſuch an Obliging manner, when it was lately to wait upon Your Lordſhip; among whom I had the Honor to be a Witneſs of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their Addreſſes, who am,
My Lord,
Your Lordſhip's Moſt Humble
and Moſt Obedient Servant,
JOHN EVELYN.
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THE PREFACE
T he Favourable Entertainment which the Kalendar has found, encouraging the Bookſeller to adventure upon a Ninth Impreſſion, I could not refuſe his Requeſt of my Reviſing, and Giving it the beſt Improvement I was capable, to an Inexhauſtible Subject, as it regards a Part of Horticulture; and offer ſome little Aid to ſuch as love a Diverſion ſo Innocent and Laudable. There are thoſe of late, who have arrogated, and given the Glorious Title of Compleat and Accompliſh'd Gardiners, to what they have Publiſh'd; as if there were nothing wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the Field; and that Nature had been quite emptied of all her fertile Store: Whilſt thoſe who thus magnifie their Diſcoveries, have after all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vaſt, Ample, and as yet, Unknown Territory; Who ſee not, that it would ſtill require the Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long Experience, for any Man to Emerge that Perfect, and Accompliſh'd Artiſt Gardiner they boaſt themſelves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far extended Limits of the Vegetable [pg] Kingdom, ſo incomprehenſible is the Variety it every Day produces, of the moſt Uſeful, and Admirable of all the Aſpectable Works of God; ſince almoſt all we ſee, and touch, and taſte, and ſmell, eat and drink, are clad with, and defended (from the Greateſt Prince to the Meaneſt Peaſant) is furniſhed from that Great and Univerſal Plantation, Epitomiz'd in our Gardens, highly worth the Contemplation of the moſt Profound Divine, and Deepeſt Philosopher.
I ſhould be aſham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could I find that ever any Mortal Man from Adam, Noah, Solomon, Ariſtotle, Theophraſtus, Dioſcorides, and the reſt of Nature's Interpreters, had ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one Plant, or Vulgar Weed whatſoever: But this perhaps may yet poſſibly be reſerv'd for another State of Things, and a [3]longer Day; that is, When Time ſhall be no more, but Knowledge ſhall be encreas'd.
We have heard of one who ſtudied and contemplated the Nature of Bees only, for Sixty Years: After which, you will not wonder, that a Perſon of my Acquaintance, ſhould have ſpent [pg] almoſt Forty, in Gathering and Amaſſing Materials for an Hortulan Deſign, to ſo enormous an Heap, as to fill ſome Thouſand Pages; and yet be comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the Square of leſs than One (ſkilfully Planted and Cultivated) ſufficient to furniſh, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with a moſt Innocent, Agreeable, and Uſeful Employment. But you may juſtly wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach, This Man began to build, but was not able to finiſh! This has been the Fate of that Undertaking; and I dare promiſe, will be of whoſoever imagines (without the Circumſtances of extraordinary Aſſistance, and no ordinary Expence) to purſue the Plan, erect, and finiſh the Fabrick as it ought to be.
But this is that which Abortives the Perfection of the moſt Glorious and Uſeful Undertakings; the Unſatiable Coveting to Exhauſt all that ſhould, or can be ſaid upon every Head: If ſuch a one have any thing elſe to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building too late; and rarely find we any, who care to ſuperſtruct upon the Foundation of another, and whoſe Ideas are alike. There ought therefore to be as many Hands, and Subſidiaries to ſuch a Deſign (and thoſe Matters too) as there are [pg] diſtinct Parts of the Whole (according to the ſubſequent Table) that thoſe who have the Means and Courage, may (tho' they do not undertake the Whole) finiſh a Part at leaſt, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, and Conſummate Work indeed.
Of One or Two of these, I attempted only a Specimen in my SILVA and the KALENDAR; Imperfect, I ſay, because they are both capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected (Let me uſe the Words of an Old, and Experienced Gardiner) Cuncta me dicturum, quae vaſtitas ejus ſcientiæ contineret, ſed plurima; nam illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque eſt ulla Diſciplina aut Ars, quæ ſingulari conſummata ſit ingenio.
May it then ſuffice aliquam partem tradidiſſe, and that I have done my Endeavour.
... Jurtilis olim
Ne Videar vixiſſe.
Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean, concerning Gardening:) But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd, as I have long ſince been, from ſo bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick I mentioned. I content my ſelf then with an Humble Cottage, and a Simple Potagere, Appendant to the [pg] Calendar; which, Treating only (and that briefly) of the Culture of Moderate Gardens; Nothing ſeems to me, ſhou'd be more Welcome and Agreeable, than whilſt the Product of them is come into more Requeſt and Uſe amongſt us, than heretofore (beſide what we call, and diſtinguiſh by the Name of Fruit) I did annex ſome particular Directions concerning S A L L E T S.
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THE
PLAN
OF A
ROYAL GARDEN:
Deſcribing, and Shewing the Amplitude, and Extent of that Part of Georgicks, which belongs to Horticulture.
In Three Books
BOOK I.
Chap. I. Of Principles and Elements in general.
Chap. II. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; Fire, Air, Water; Earth.
Chap. III. Of the Celeſtial Influences, and particularly of the Sun, Moon, and of the Climates.
[pg] Chap. IV. Of the Four Annual Seasons.
Chap. V. Of the Natural Mould and Soil of a Garden.
Chap. VI. Of Compoſts, and Stercoration, Repaſtination, Dreſſing and Stirring the Earth and Mould of a Garden.
BOOK II.
Chap. I. A Garden Derived and Defin'd; its Dignity, Diſtinction, and Sorts.
Chap. II. Of a Gardiner, how to be qualify 'd, regarded and rewarded; his Habitation, Cloathing, Diet, Under-Workmen and Aſſistants.
Chap. III. Of the Inſtruments belonging to a Gardiner; their various Uſes, and Machanical Powers.
Chap. IV. Of the Terms us'd, and affected by Gardiners.
Chap. V. Of Encloſing, Fencing, Plotting, and diſpoſing of the Ground; and of Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c.
Chap. VI. Of a Seminary, Nurſeries; and of Propagating Trees, Plants and Flowers, Planting and Tranſplanting, &c.
Chap. VII. Of Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks and Emboſſments.
[pg] Chap. VIII. Of Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, Cloſe-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns, and other Relievo's; of Topiary and Hortulan Architecture.
Chap. IX. Of Fountains, Jetto's, Caſcades, Rivulets, Piſcinas, Canals, Baths, and other Natural, and Artificial Water-works.
Chap. X. Of Rocks, Grotts, Cryptæ, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts, Conſervatories, of Ice and Snow, and other Hortulan Refreſhments.
Chap. XI. Of Statues, Buſts, Obelisks, Columns, Inſcriptions, Dials, Vaſa's, Perſpectives, Paintings, and other Ornaments.
Chap. XII. Of Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres, Artificial Echo's, Automata and Hydraulic Musck.
Chap. XIII. Of Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Inſects, &c.
Chap. XIV. Of Verdures, Perennial Greens, and Perpetual Springs.
Chap. XV. Of Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves, and Conſervatories of Tender Plants and Fruits, and how to order them.
Chap. XVI. Of the Coronary Garden: Flowers and Rare Plants, how they are to be Raiſed, Governed and Improved; and how the Gardiner is to keep his Regiſter.
[pg] Chap. XVII. Of the Philoſophical Medical Garden.
Chap. XVIII. Of Stupendous and Wonderful Plants.
Chap. XIX. Of the Hort-Yard and Potagere; and what Fruit-Trees, Olitory and Eſculent Plants, may be admitted into a Garden of Pleaſure.
Chap. XX. Of Sallets.
Chap. XXI. Of a Vineyard, and Directions concerning the making of Wine and other Vinous Liquors, and of Teas.
Chap. XXII. Of Watering, Pruning, Plaſhing, Palliſading, Nailing, Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleanſing, &c.
Chap. XXIII. Of the Enemies and Infirmities to which Gardens are obnoxious, together with Remedies.
Chap. XXIV. Of the Gardiner's Almanack or Kalendarium Hortenſe, directing what he is to do Monthly, and what Fruits and Flowers are in prime.
BOOK III.
Chap. I. Of Conſerving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying, Tranſmuting, and Altering the [pg] Species, Forms, and (reputed) Subſtantial Qualities of Plants, Fruits and Flowers.
Chap. II. Of the Hortulan Elaboratory; and of diſtilling and extracting of Waters, Spirits, Eſſences, Salts, Colours, Reſuſcitation of Plants, with other rare Experiments, and an Account of their Virtues.
Chap. III. Of Compoſing the Hortus Hyemalis, and making Books, of Natural, Arid Plants and Flowers, with ſeveral Ways of Preſerving them in their Beauty.
Chap. IV. Of Painting of Flowers, Flowers enamell'd, Silk, Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Paſts, Horns, Glaſs, Shells, Feathers, Moſs, Pietra Comeſſa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings, and other Artificial Repreſentations of them.
Chap. V. Of Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Feſtoons, Encarpa, Flower-Pots, Noſegays, Poeſes, Deckings, and other Flowery Pomps.
Chap. VI. Of Hortulan Laws and Privileges.
Chap. VII. Of the Hortulan Study, and of a Library, Authors and Books aſſiſtant to it.
Chap. VIII. Of Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral, and Political; with divers Hiſtorical Paſſages, and Solemnities, to [pg] ſhew the Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight, and Univerſal Uſe of Gardens.
Chap. IX. Of Garden Burial.
Chap. X. Of Paradiſe, and of the moſt Famous Gardens in the World, Ancient and Modern.
Chap. XI. The Deſcription of a Villa.
Chap. XII. The Corollary and Concluſion.
——Laudato ingentia rura,
Exiguum colito.——
ACETARIA:
A Diſcourse of Sallets
S allets in general conſiſt of certain Eſculent Plants and Herbs, improv'd by Culture, Induſtry, and Art of the Gard'ner: Or, as others ſay, they are a Compoſition of Edule Plants and Roots of ſeveral kinds, to be eaten Raw or Green, Blanch'd or Candied: ſimple--and per ſe, or intermingl'd with others according to the Seaſon. The Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwiſe diſguis'd, variouſly accommodated by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, &c. challenge not the name of Sallet ſo properly here, tho' ſometimes mention'd; And therefore,
Thoſe who Criticize not ſo nicely upon the Word, ſeem to diſtinguiſh the [4]Olera (which were never eaten Raw) from Acetaria, which were never Boil'd; and ſo they derive the Etymology of Olus, from Olla, the Pot. But others deduce it from Όλος, comprehending the Univerſal Genus of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from Παν
Panis; eſteeming that he who had [5]Bread and Herbs, was ſufficiently bleſs'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or deſire: Others again will have it, ab Olendo, i.e. Creſcendo, from its continual growth and ſpringing up: So the younger Scaliger on Varro: But his Father Julius extends it not ſo generally to all Plants, as to all the Eſculents, according to the Text: We call thoſe Olera (ſays [6]Theophraſtus) which are commonly eaten, in which ſenſe it may be taken, to include both Boil'd and Raw: Laſt of all, ab Alendo, as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the [7]Creation.
A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the Cumini Sectores, and impertinently Curious; whilſt as it concerns the buſineſs in hand, we are by Sallet to underſtand a particular Compoſition of certain Crude and freſh Herbs, such as uſually are, or may ſafely be eaten with ſome Acetous Juice, Oyl, Salt, &c. to give them a grateful Guſt and Vehicle; excluſive of the [8] ψυχραι τραπεζαι,
eaten without their due Correctives, which the Learned [9]Salmaſius, and, indeed generally, the [10]old Phyſicians affirm (and that truly) all Crude and raw λαχανα
require to render them wholſome; ſo as probably they were from hence, as [11]Pliny thinks, call'd Acetaria: and not (as Hermolaus and ſome others) Acceptaria ab Accipiendo; nor from Accedere, though ſo [12]ready at hand, and eaſily dreſs'd; requiring neither Fire, Coſt, or Attendance, to boil, roaſt, and prepare them as did Fleſh, and other Proviſions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always in uſe, &c. And hence indeed the more frugal Italians and French, to this Day, gather Ogni Verdura, any thing almoſt that's Green and Tender, to the very Tops of Nettles; ſo as every Hedge affords a Sallet (not unagreeable) ſeaſon'd with its proper Oxybaphon of Vinegar, Salt, Oyl, &c. which doubtleſs gives it both the Reliſh and Name of Salad, Emſalada [13], as with us of Sallet; from the Sapidity, which renders not Plants and Herbs alone, but Men themſelves, and their Converſations, pleaſant and agreeable: But of this enough, and perhaps too much; leaſt whilſt I write of Salt and Sallet, I appear my ſelf Inſipid: I paſs therefore to the Ingredients, which we will call
Furniture and Materials
T he Materials of Sallets, which together with the groſſer Olera, conſiſt of Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Fruits (belonging to another Claſs) would require a much ampler Volume, than would ſuit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an Appendix only) ſhould we extend the following Catalogue further than to a brief enumeration only of ſuch Herbaceous Plants, Oluſcula and smaller Eſculents, as are chiefly us'd in Cold Sallets, of whose Culture we have treated there; and as we gather them from the Mother and Genial Bed, with a touch only of their Qualities, for Reasons hereafter given.
1. Alexanders, Hippoſelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare (much of the nature of Perſly) is moderately hot, and of a cleanſing Faculty, Deobſtructing, nouriſhing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle freſh Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be choſen, and the Stalks eaten in the Spring; and when Blanch'd, in Winter likewiſe, with Oyl, Pepper, Salt, &c. by themſelves, or in Compoſition: They make alſo an excellent Vernal Pottage.
2. Artichaux, Cinara, (Carduus Sativus) hot and dry. The Heads being ſlit in quarters firſt eaten raw, with Oyl, a little Vinegar, Salt, and Pepper, gratefully recommend a Glaſs of Wine; Dr. Muffet ſays, at the end of Meals.
They are likewiſe, whilſt tender and ſmall, fried in freſh Butter criſp with Perſley. But then become a moſt delicate and excellent Reſtorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The Bottoms are alſo bak'd in Pies, with Marrow, Dates, and other rich Ingredients: In Italy they ſometimes broil them, and as the Scaly Leaves open, baſte them with freſh and ſweet Oyl; but with Care extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that hazard eſcap'd, they eat them with the Juice of Orange and Sugar.
The Stalk is Blanch'd in Autumn, and the Pith eaten raw or boil'd. The way of preſerving them freſh all Winter, is by ſeparating the Bottoms from the Leaves, and after Parboiling, allowing to every Bottom, a ſmall earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in freſh melted Butter, as they do Wild-Fowl, &c. Or if more than one, in a larger Pot, in the ſame Bed and Covering, Layer upon Layer.
They are alſo preſerv'd by ſtringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper being put between every Bottom, to hinder them from touching one another, and ſo hung up in a dry place. They are likewiſe Pickl'd.
'Tis not very long ſince this noble Thiſtle came firſt into Italy, Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and ſo rare in England, that they were commonly ſold for Crowns a piece: But what Carthage yearly ſpent in them (as Pliny computes the Sum) amounted to Seſtertia Sena Millia, 30000 l. Sterling.
Note, That the Spaniſh Cardon, a wild and ſmaller Artichoak, with ſharp pointed Leaves, and leſſer Head; the Stalks being Blanch'd and tender, are ſerv'd-up a la Poiverade (that is with Oyl, Pepper, &c.) as the French term is.
3. Baſil, Ocimum (as Baulm) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too ſtrong, ſomewhat offenſive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops to be very ſparingly us'd in our Sallet.
4. Baulm, Meliſſa, Baum, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating, ſovereign for the Brain, ſtrengthning the Memory, and powerfully chaſing away Melancholy. The tender Leaves are us'd in Compoſition with other Herbs; and the Sprigs freſh gather'd, put into Wine or other Drinks, during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickneſs: This noble Plant yields an incomparable Wine, made as is that of Cowſlip-Flowers.
5. Beet, Beta; of which there is both Red, Black, and White: The Coſta, or Rib of the White Beet (by the French call'd the Chard) being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the Roots (eſpecially of the Red) cut into thin ſlices, boil'd, when cold, is of it ſelf a grateful winter Sallet; or being mingl'd with other Oluſcula, Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moiſt, and naturally ſomewhat Laxative: But however by the Epigrammatiſt ſtil'd Fooliſh and Inſipid, as Innocentior quam Olus (for ſo the Learned [14]Harduin reads the place) 'tis by Diphilus of old, and others ſince, preferr'd before Cabbage as of better Nouriſhment: Martial (not unlearn'd in the Art of Sallet) commends it with Wine and Pepper: He names it indeed—Fabrorum prandia, for its being ſo vulgar. But eaten with Oyl and Vinegar, as uſually, it is no deſpicable Sallet. There is a Beet growing near the Sea, which is the moſt delicate of all. The Roots of the Red Beet, pared into thin Slices and Circles, are by the French and Italians contriv'd into curious Figures to adorn their Sallets.
6. Blite, Blitum; Engliſh Mercury, or (as our Country Houſe wives call it) All-good, the gentle Turiones, and Tops may be eaten as Sparagus, or ſodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much us'd in Spain and Italy; but beſides its humidity and deterſive Nature, 'tis Inſipid enough.
7. Borrage, Borrago (Gaudia semper ago) hot and kindly moiſt, purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleaſant Flavour: The tender Leaves, and Flowers eſpecially, may be eaten in Compoſition; but above all, the Sprigs in Wine, like thoſe of Baum, are of known Vertue to revive the Hypochondriac, and chear the hard Student. See Bugloſs.
8. Brooklime, Anagallis aquatica; moderately hot and moiſt, prevalent in the Scorbute, and Stone.
9. Bugloſs, Bugloſſum; in mature much like Borrage, yet ſomething more aſtringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly reſtorative, being Conſerv'd: And for the reſt, ſo much commended by Averroes; that for its effects, cheriſhing the Spirits, juſtly call'd Euphroſynum; Nay, ſome will have it the Nepenthes of Homer: But indeed, what we now call Bugloſs, was not that of the Ancients, but rather Borrage, for the like Virtue named Corrago.
Burnet, See Pimpinella.
10. Buds, Gemmæ, Turiones; the firſt Rudiments and Tops of moſt Sallet-Plants, preferrable to all other leſs tender Parts; ſuch as Aſhen-Keys, Broom-buds, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of Capers, eſteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent againſt the Spleen and Scurvy; and being Pickl'd, are ſprinkl'd among the Sallets, or eaten by themſelves.
11. Cabbage, Braſſica (and its ſeveral kinds) Pompey's beloved Diſh, ſo highly celebrated by old [15]Cato, Pythagoras, and Chryſippus the Phyſician (as the only Panacea) is not ſo generally magnify'd by the reſt of Doctors, as affording but a craſs and melancholy Juice; yet Looſening if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, Aſtringent, according to C. Celſus; and therefore ſeldom eaten raw, excepting by the Dutch. The Cymæ, or Sprouts rather of the Cole are very delicate, ſo boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In raiſing this Plant great care is to be had of the Seed. The beſt comes from Denmark and Ruſſia, eſpecially the Cauly-flower, (anciently unknown) or from Aleppo. Of the French, the Pancaliere a la large Costé, the white, large and ponderous are to be choſen; and ſo the Cauly-flower: After boiling ſome ſteep them in Milk, and ſeethe them again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little Nitre. The Broccoli from Naples, perhaps the Halmyridia of Pliny (or Athenæus rather) Capiata marina & florida, our Sea-keele (the ancient Crambe) and growing on our Coaſt, are very delicate, as are the Savoys, commended for being not ſo rank, but agreeable to moſt Palates, and of better Nouriſhment: In general, Cabbages are thought to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But ſome will have them noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the Cauly-flower rather: But whilſt the Learned are not agreed about it, Theophraſtus affirms the contrary, and Pliny commends the Juice raw, with a little Honey, for the moiſt and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, Cabbage ('tis confeſs'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigeſted in the Stomach, and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we read the Ancients had for them, calling them Divine, and Swearing, per Braſſicam. 'Tis ſcarce an hundred Years ſince we firſt had Cabbages out of Holland. Sir Anth. Aſhley of Wiburg St. Giles in Dorſetſhire, being (as I am told) the firſt who planted them in England.
12. Cardon, See Artichaux.
13. Carrots, Dauci, or Paſtinaca Sativa; temperately warm and dry, Spicy; the beſt are yellow, very nouriſhing; let them be rais'd in Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.
14. Chervile, Chærophyllum, Myrrhis; The ſweet aromatick Spaniſh Chervile, moderately hot and dry: The tender Cimæ, and Tops, with other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our Sallets, (as long as they may be had) being exceedingly wholſome and chearing the Spirits: The Roots are alſo boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Perſons: This (as likewiſe Spinach) is us'd in Tarts, and ſerves alone for divers Sauces.
| Cibbols. |  | Vide Onions, Schœnopræſſon. |
| Cives. |
15. Clary, Horminum, when tender not to be rejected, and in Omlets, made up with Cream, fried in ſweet Butter, are eaten with Sugar, Juice of Orange, or Limon.
16. Clavers, Aparine; the tender Winders, with young Nettle-Tops, are us'd in Lenten Pottages.
17. Corn-ſallet, Valerianella; loos'ning and refreſhing: The Tops and Leaves are a Sallet of themſelves, ſeaſonably eaten with other Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The French call them Salad de Preter, for their being generally eaten in Lent.
18. Cowſlips, Paralyſis: See Flowers.
19. Creſſes, Naſturtium, Garden Creſſes; to be monthly ſown: But above all the Indian, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of ſingular effect againſt the Scorbute. Both the tender Leaves, Calices, Cappuchin Capers, and Flowers, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The Buds being Candy'd, are likewiſe us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the Naſtur. Hybernicum commended alſo, and the vulgar Water-Creſs, proper in the Spring, all of the ſame Nature, tho' of different Degrees, and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nouriſh little.
20. Cucumber, Cucumis; tho' very cold and moiſt, the moſt approved Sallet alone, or in Compoſition, of all the Vinaigrets, to ſharpen the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]&c. if rightly prepar'd; that is, by rectifying the vulgar Miſtake of altogether extracting the Juice, in which it ſhould rather be ſoak'd: Nor ought it to be over Oyl'd, too much abating of its grateful Acidity, and palling the Taſte from a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in thin Slices, with a Clove or two of Onion to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others prepare them, by ſhaking the Slices between two Diſhes, and dreſs them with very little Oyl, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of Limon, Orange, or Vinegar, Salt and Pepper. Some again, (and indeed the moſt approv'd) eat them as ſoon as they are cut, retaining their Liquor, which being exhauſted (by the former Method) have nothing remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the Cucumber, and paring off the Rind, eat them with Oyl, Vinegar, and Honey; Sugar not being ſo well known. Laſtly, the Pulp in Broth is greatly refreſhing, and may be mingl'd in moſt Sallets, without the leaſt damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, ſince Cucumber, however dreſs'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being accounted little better than Poyſon. Tavernier tells us, that in the Levant, if a Child cry for ſomething to Eat, they give it a raw Cucumber inſtead of Bread. The young ones may be boil'd in White-Wine. The ſmaller sort (known by the name of Gerckems) muriated with the Seeds of Dill, and the Mango Pickle are for the Winter.
21. Daiſy, Buphthalmum, Ox-Eye, or Bellis-major: The young Roots are frequently eaten by the Spaniards and Italians all the Spring till June.
22. Dandelion, Dens Leonis, Condrilla: Macerated in ſeveral Waters, to extract the bitterneſs; tho' ſomewhat opening, is very wholſome, and little inferior to Succory, Endive, &c. The French Country-People eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely Sallet, the Good-Wife Hecate entertain'd Theſeus. See Sowthiſtle.
23. Dock, Oxylapathum, or ſharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho' otherwiſe not for our Sallet, the Roots brewed in Ale or Beer, are excellent for the Scorbute.
Earth-Nuts, Bulbo-Caſtanum; (found in divers places of Surry, near Kingſton, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by Rustics, with a little Pepper; but are beſt boil'd like other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are ſweet and nouriſhing.
24. Elder, Sambucus; The Flowers infus'd in Vinegar, grateful both to the Stomach and Taſte; attenuate thick and viſcid Humours; and tho' the Leaves are ſomewhat rank of Smell, and ſo not commendable in Sallet; they are otherwiſe (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most ſovereign Vertue; and the ſpring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholſome in Pottage at that Seaſon of the Year. See Flowers.
25. Endive, Endivium, Intubum Sativum; the largeſt, whiteſt, and tendereſt Leaves beſt boil'd, and leſs crude. It is naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; Inciſive and opening Obſtructions of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in Compoſition, with the uſual Intinctus: It is alſo excellent being boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk ſeparated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before Lettuce. See Succory.
Eſchalot. See Onions.
26. Fennel, Fœniculum: The ſweeteſt of Bolognia: Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, ſharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; eſpecially the tender Umbella and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel'd when young, and then dreſs'd like Sellery. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with Vinegar, or Oyl, and Pepper, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Compoſition. The Italians eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call Cartucci) all Winter long. There is a very ſmall Green-Worm, which ſometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, as the Red one in that of Sellery.
27. Flowers, Flores; chiefly of the Aromatick Eſculents and Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their Simples, in a more intenſe degree; and may therefore be eaten alone in their proper Vehicles, or Compoſition with other Salleting, ſprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Reliſh, being Infus'd in Vinegar; Eſpecially thoſe of the Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, Cowſlip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Naſturtium Indicum, &c. Some of them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make alſo very pleasant and wholſome Theas, as do likewiſe the Wild Time, Bugloſſ, Mint, &c.
28. Garlick, Allium; dry towards Exceſs; and tho' both by Spaniards and Italians, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with almoſt every thing, and eſteem'd of such ſigular Vertue to help Conception, and thought a Charm againſt all Infection and Poyſon (by which it has obtain'd the Name of the Country-man's Theriacle) we yet think it more proper for our Northern Ruſtics, especially living in Uliginous and moiſt places, or ſuch as uſe the Sea: Whilſt we abſolutely forbid it entrance into our Salleting, by reaſon of its intolerable Rankneſs, and which made it ſo deteſted of old; that the eating of it was (as we read) part of the Puniſhment for ſuch as had committed the horrid'ſt Crimes. To be ſure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, nor thoſe who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Diſh, with a Clove thereof, much better ſupply'd by the gentler Roccombo.
Note, That in Spain they ſometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its fierceneſs, turns it into Nouriſhment, or rather Medicine.
Ginny-Pepper, Capſicum. See Pepper.
29. Goats-beard, Trago-pogon: The Root is excellent even in Sallet, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breaſt, and may be ſtew'd and dreſs'd as Scorzonera.
30. Hops, Lupulus: Hot and moiſt, rather Medicinal, than fit for Sallet; the Buds and young Tendrels excepted, which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like Aſparagus: They are Diuretic; depurate the Blood, and open Obſtructions.
31. Hyſſop, Hyſſopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, Mary-gold, &c. as all hot, ſpicy Aromatics, (commonly growing in Kitchin-Gardens) are of Faculty to Comfort, and ſtrengthen; prevalent againſt Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like theſe, going under the Names of Pot Herbs, are much more proper for Broths and Decoctions, than the tender Sallet: Yet the Tops and Flowers reduc'd to Powder, are by ſome reſerv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.
32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, Alliaria, or Sauce-alone; has many Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other Sallets, eſpecially by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.
33. Leeks, and Cibbols, Porrum; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, ſince Latona, the Mother of Appolo long'd after them: The Welch, who eat them much, are obſerv'd to be very fruitful: They are alſo friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being ſod in Milk; a few therefore of the ſlender and green Summities, a little ſhred, do not amiſs in Compoſition. See Onion.
34. Lettuce, Lactuca: Tho' by Metaphor call'd [18]Mortuorum Cibi, (to ſay nothing of [19]Adonis and his ſad Miſtriſs) by reason of its Soporiferous quality, ever was, and ſtill continues the principal Foundation of the univerſal Tribe of Sallets; which is to Cool and Refreſh, beſides its other Properties: And therefore in ſuch high eſteem with the Ancients; that divers of the Valerian Family, dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of Lactucinii.
It is indeed of Nature more cold and moiſt than any of the reſt; yet leſs aſtringent, and ſo harmleſs that it may ſafely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguiſhes Thirſt, excites Appetite, kindly Nouriſhes, and above all repreſſes Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain; beſides the effect it has upon the Morals, Temperance and Chaſtity. Galen (whoſe beloved Sallet it was) from its pinguid, ſubdulcid and agreeable Nature, ſays it breeds the moſt laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called Sana, by way of eminency, and ſo highly valu'd by the great [20]Auguſtus, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickneſs to them, 'tis reported, he erected a Statue, and built an Altar to this noble Plant. And that the moſt abſtemious and excellent Emperor [21]Tacitus (ſpending almoſt nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties) was yet ſo great a Friend to Lettuce, that he was us'd to ſay of his Prodigality, Somnum ſe mercari illa ſumptus effuſione. How it was celebrated by Galen we have heard; how he us'd it he tells himſelf; namely, beginning with Lettuce in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and Sallet ſtore, ſo proper to mingle with any of the reſt, nor ſo wholſome to be eaten alone, or in Compoſition, moderately, and with the uſual Oxelœum of Vinegar, Pepper, and Oyl, &c. which laſt does not ſo perfectly agree with the Alphange, to which the Juice of Orange, or Limon and Sugar is more deſirable: Ariſtoxenus is reported to have irrigated his Lettuce-Beds with an Oinomelite, or mixture of Wine and Honey: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and Brothers of the Sallet, have been ſo exceedingly Induſtrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its Species; for to name a few in preſent uſe: We have the Alphange of Montpelier, criſp and delicate; the Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coſs-Lettuce, Curl'd; the Genoa (laſting all the Winter) the Imperial, Lambs, or Agnine, and Lobbs or Lop-Lettuces. The French Minion a dwarf kind: The Oak-Leaf, Paſſion, Roman, Shell, and Sileſian, hard and crimp (eſteemed of the beſt and rareſt) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that beſides three or four ſorts of this Plant, and ſome few of the reſt, there was within our remembrance, rarely any other Salleting ſerv'd up to the beſt Tables; with unblanch'd Endive, Succory, Purſelan, (and indeed little other variety) Sugar and Vinegar being the conſtant Vehicles (without Oyl) but now Sugar is almoſt wholly baniſh'd from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and taking from the grateful Acid now in uſe, tho' otherwiſe not totally to be reproved: Lettuce boil'd and Condited is ſometimes ſpoken of.
35. Limon, Limonia, citrea mala; exceedingly refreſhing, Cordial, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, ſecluding the over-ſweet or bitter. See Orange.
36. Mallow, Malva; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the Ventricle, and ſo rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the reſt (tho' out of uſe at preſent) was taken by the Poets for all Sallets in general. Pythagoras held Malvæ folium Sanctiſimum; and we find Epimenides in [22]Plato at his Mallows and Aſphodel; and indeed it was of old the firſt Diſh at Table: The Romans had it alſo in deliciis, [23]Malvæ ſalubres corpori, approved by [24]Galen and [25]Dioſcorides; namely the Garden-Mallow, by others the Wild; but I think both proper rather for the Pot, than Sallet. Nonius ſuppoſes the tall Roſea, Arboreſcent Holi-hocks, that bears the broad Flower, for the beſt, and very [26]Laxative; but by reaſon of their clammineſs and Lentor, baniſhed from our Sallet, tho' by ſome commended and eaten with Oyl and Vinegar, and ſome with Butter.
Mercury, Bonus Henricus, Engliſh Mercury, or Lapathum Unctuoſum. See Blitum.
37. Melon, Melo; to have been reckon'd rather among Fruits; and tho' an uſual Ingredient in our Sallet; yet for its tranſcendent delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if ſweet, dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only ſuperior all the Gourd-kind, but Paragon with the nobleſt Productions of the Garden. Joſ. Scaliger and Caſaubon, think our Melon unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of Cucumers: But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Glaſſes, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for Tiberius) cannot well doubt of their being the ſame with ours.
There is alſo a Winter-Melon, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they drink Water after eating Melons; but in the colder (after all diſpute) Wine is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by ſome been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things elſe eaten in exceſs) is not deny'd: But a perfect good Melon is certainly as harmleſs a Fruit as any whatſoever; and may ſafely be mingl'd with Sallet, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it ſelf, with a little Salt and Pepper; for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it, wants of Perfection. Note, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England, ſo as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir Geo. Gardner came out of Spain. I my ſelf remembring, when an ordinary Melon would have been ſold for five or ſix Shillings. The ſmall unripe Fruit, when the others are paſt, may be Pickl'd with Mango, and are very delicate.
38. Mint, Mentha; the Anguſtifolia Spicata, Spear-Mint; dry and warm, very fragrant, a little preſs'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful againſt all Nervous Crudities: The gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint, enter well into our Compoſition, or are grateful alone (as are alſo the other ſorts) with the Juice of Orange, and a little Sugar.
39. Muſhroms, Fungi; By the [27]Orator call'd Terræ, by Porphyry Deorum filii, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of Autumnal Thunder-Storms, portending the Miſchief they cauſe) by the French, Champignons, with all the Species of the Boletus, &c. for being, as ſome hold, neither Root, Herb, Flower, nor Fruit, nor to be eaten crude; ſhould be therefore baniſh'd entry into our Sallet, were I to order the Compoſition; however ſo highly contended for by many, as the very principal and top of all the reſt; whilſt I think them tolerable only (at leaſt in this Climate) if being freſh and skilfully choſen, they are accommodated with the niceſt Care and Circumſpection; generally reported to have ſomething malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cauſe; from the many ſad Examples, frequent Miſchiefs, and funeſt Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Perſons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were to the ſecond Courſe of the Cæsarian Tables, with the noble Title Βρωμα θεων,
a Dainty fit for the Gods alone; to whom they ſent the Emperor [28]Claudius, as they have many ſince, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]Seneca deplores his loſt Friend, that brave Commander Annæus Serenus, and ſeveral other gallant Perſons with him, who all of them periſh'd at the same Repaſt; would be apt to ask with the [30]Naturaliſt (ſpeaking of this ſuſpicious Dainty) Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats Muſhroms, many time Nil amplius edit, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring Epithets are given for our Caution, Βαρη πνιγοεντα μυκητων,
heavy and choaking. (Athenæus reporting of the Poet Euripides's, finding a Woman and her three Children ſtrangl'd by eating of them) one would think ſufficient warning.
Among theſe comes in the Fungus Reticularis, to be found about London, as at Fulham and other places; whilſt at no ſmall charge we ſend for them into France; as we alſo do for Trufles, Pig-nuts, and other ſubterraneous Tubera, which in Italy they fry in Oyl, and eat with Pepper: They are commonly diſcovered by a Naſute Swine purpoſely brought up; being of a Cheſsnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not ſeldom found in England, particularly in a Park of my Lord Cotton's at Ruſhton or Rusbery in Northampton-ſhire, and doubtleſs in other [31]places too were they ſought after. How these rank and provocative Excreſcences are to be [32]treated (of themſelves inſipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or Conditure) that they may do the leſs Miſchief we might here ſet down. But ſince there be ſo many ways of Dreſſing them, that I can incourage none to uſe them, for Reaſons given (beſides that they do not at all concern our ſafer and innocent Sallet Furniture) I forbear it; and referr thoſe who long after this beloved Ragout, and other Voluptuaria Venena (as Seneca calls them) to what our Learned Dr. Lyſter [33] ſays of the many Venomous Inſects harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of Muſhroms had lately in deliciis. Thoſe, in the mean time, which are eſteemed beſt, and leſs pernicious, (of which ſee the Appendix) are ſuch as riſe in rich, airy, and dry [34]Paſture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or Pedicule of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (Target-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale ſaffronish hue, curiouſly radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But beſides what the Harveſt-Months produce, they are likewiſe rais'd [35]Artificially; as at Naples in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain ſuppoſed Stone, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]Peireſky tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old Fungus's, reduc'd and compacted to a ſtony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and ſprinkle it with warm Water, in which Muſhroms have been ſteeped. And in France, by making an hot Bed of Aſſes-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuſe Fungus's; and ſuch a Bed will laſt two or three Years, and ſometimes our common Melon-Beds afford them, beſides other Experiments.
40. Muſtard, Sinapi; exceeding hot and mordicant, not only in the Seed but Leaf alſo; eſpecially in Seedling young Plants, like thoſe of Radiſhes (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; ſtrengthening the Memory, expelling heavineſs, preventing the Vertiginous Palſie, and is a laudable Cephalick. Beſides it is an approv'd Antiſcorbutick; aids Concoction, cuts and diſſipates Phlegmatick Humours. In ſhort, 'tis the moſt noble Embamma, and ſo neceſſary an Ingredient to all cold and raw Salleting, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In Italy in making Muſtard, they mingle Limon and Orange-Peel, with the Seeds. How the beſt is made, ſee hereafter.
Naſturtium Indicum. See Creſſes.
41. Nettles, Urtica; Hot, dry, Diuretic, Solvent; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender Cimae, a little bruiſed, are by ſome eaten raw, by others boil'd, eſpecially in Spring-Pottage, with other Herbs.
42. Onion, Cepa, Porrum; the beſt are ſuch as are brought us out of Spain, whence they of St. Omers had them, and ſome that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Chooſe therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl, Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them in Sallet, not ſo hot as Garlick, nor at all ſo rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly reliſh; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the Aſthmatical: But eaten in exceſs, are ſaid to offend the Head and Eyes, unleſs Edulcorated with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour riſing from the raw Onion, when peeled, which ſome commend for its purging and quickning that Senſe. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold Sallet we ſupply them with the Porrum Sectile, Tops of Leeks, and Eſchalots (Aſcalonia) of guſt more exalted, yet not to the degree of Garlick. Or (by what of later uſe is much preferr'd) with a Seed or two of Raccombo, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Diſh only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions, Cives, and Chibbols only ſeaſon'd with Oyl and Pepper; and an honeſt laborious Country-man, with good Bread, Salt, and a little Parſley, will make a contented Meal with a roaſted Onion. How this noble Bulb was deified in [37]Egypt we are told, and that whilſt they were building the Pyramids, there was ſpent in this Root [38]Ninety Tun of Gold among the Workmen. So luſhious and tempting it ſeems they were, that as whole Nations have ſubſiſted on them alone; ſo the Iſraelites were ready to return to Slavery and Brick-making for the love of them. Indeed Hecamedes we find preſents them to Patroclus, in Homer, as a Regalo; But certainly we are either miſtaken in the Species (which ſome will have to be Melons) or uſe Poetick Licence, when we ſo highly magnify them.
43. Orach, Atriplex: Is cooling, allays the Pituit Humor: Being ſet over the Fire, neither this, nor Lettuce, needs any other Water than their own moiſture to boil them in, without Expreſſion: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold Salleting; but 'tis better in Pottage. See Blitum.
44. Orange, Arantiæ (Malum aureum) Moderately dry, cooling, and inciſive; ſharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreſhes and reſists Putrefaction: We ſpeak of the Sub acid; the ſweet and bitter Orange being of no uſe in our Sallet. The Limon is ſomewhat more acute, cooling and extinguiſhing Thirſt; of all the Οξυβαφα
the best ſuccedaneum to Vinegar. The very Spoils and Rinds of Orange and Limon being ſhred and ſprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender Seedlings from the Hot-Bed, which impart an Aromatic exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. Vide Limon.
45. Parſnep, Paſtinaca, Carrot: firſt boil'd, being cold, is of it ſelf a Winter-Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, &c. and having ſomething of Spicy, is by ſome, thought more nouriſhing than the Turnep.
46. Peaſe, Piſum: the Pod of the Sugar-Peaſe, when firſt beginning to appear, with the Husk and Tendrels, affording a pretty Acid, enter into the Compoſition, as do thoſe of Hops and the Vine.
47. Peper, Piper, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Conſtitutions, and generally all Crudities whatſoever; and therefore for being of univerſal uſe to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and ſuch as abound in moiſture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our Sallets; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almoſt impalpable Duſt, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and ſticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, inſtead of promoting Concoction, it often cauſes a Cardialgium, and fires the Blood: It ſhould therefore be groſly contus'd only.
Indian Capſicum, ſuperlatively hot and burning, is yet by the Africans eaten with Salt and Vinegar by it ſelf, as an uſual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous conſequence with us; being ſo much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithſtanding render'd not only ſafe, but very agreeable in our Sallet.
Take the Pods, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become ſufficiently hard, cut them into ſmall pieces, and ſtamp 'em in a Mortar to duſt: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of Wheat-flour, fermented with a little Levain: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wiſe, in ſhape of Naples-Biſcuit. Theſe Re-bake a ſecond time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seaſoning, inſtead of vulgar Peper. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be ſure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten Indian Capſicum, before you ſtamp any thing in it elſe. The green Husks, or firſt peeping Buds of the Walnut-Tree, dry'd to Powder, ſerve for Peper in ſome places, and ſo do Myrtle-berries.
48. Perſley, Petroſelinum, or Apium hortenſe; being hot and dry, opens Obſtructions, is very Diuretic, yet nouriſhing, edulcorated in ſhifted warm Water (the Roots eſpecially) but of leſs Vertue than Alexanders; nor ſo convenient in our crude Sallet, as when decocted on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as ſacred to Oblivium and the Defunct. In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (Farces) and other Sauces, we conſign it to the Olitories. Note, that Perſley is not ſo hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See Sellery.
49. Pimpernel, Pimpinella; eaten by the French and Italians, is our common Burnet; of ſo chearing and exhilarating a quality, and ſo generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all Sallets) 'tis paſs'd into a Proverb:
L'Inſalata non è buon, ne bella
Ove non è la Pimpinella.
But a freſh ſprig in Wine, recommends it to us as its moſt genuine Element.
50. Purslain, Portulaca; eſpecially the Golden whilſt tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moiſt and cooling, quickens Appetite, aſſwages Thirſt, and is very profitable for hot and Bilious Tempers, as well as Sanguine, and generally entertain'd in all our Sallets, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis likewiſe familiarly eaten alone with Oyl and Vinegar; but with moderation, as having been ſometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being Pickl'd 'tis not ſo apt to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. Muffet would have in Wine, for Nouriſhment.
The Shrub Halimus, is a ſort of Sea-Purſlain: The newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleaſant Acidule, even during winter, if it prove not too ſevere.
Purſlain is accus'd for being hurtful to the Teeth, if too much eaten.
51. Radiſh, Raphanus. Albeit rather Medicinal, than ſo commendably accompanying our Sallets (wherein they often ſlice the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raiſed on the [39]Monthly Hot-Bed, almoſt the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and ſufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (ſo much desir'd) ſhould be ſuch as being tranſparent, eat ſhort and quick, without ſtringineſs, and not too biting. Theſe are eaten alone with Salt only, as carrying their Peper in them; and were indeed by Dioſcorides and Pliny celebrated above all Roots whatſoever; inſomuch as in the Delphic Temple, there was Raphanus ex auro dicatus, a Radish of ſolid Gold; and 'tis ſaid of Moſchius, that he wrote a whole Volume in their praiſe. Notwithſtanding all which, I am ſure, the great [40]Hippocrates utterly condemns them, as Vitioſoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles. And the Naturaliſt calls it Cibus Illiberalis, fitter for Ruſtics than Gentlemens Tables. And indeed (beſides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the Prince of Phyſicians writes, It is hard of Digeſtion, Inimicous to the Stomach, cauſing nauſeous Eructations, and ſometimes Vomiting, tho' otherwiſe Diuretic, and thought to repel the Vapours of Wine, when the Wits were at their genial Club. Dioſcorides and [41]Galen differ about their Eating; One preſcribes it before Meals, the latter for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more Nouriſhing.
There is a Raphanus ruſticanus, the Spaniſh black Horſe Radish, of a hotter quality, and not ſo friendly to the Head; but a notable Antiſcorbutic, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Compoſition of Muſtard; as are alſo the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an excellent and univerſal Condiment. Take Horſe-Radiſh, whilſt newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwiſe laid to ſteep in Water a competent time; then grate it on a Grater which has no bottom, that ſo it may paſs thro', like a Mucilage, into a Diſh of Earthen Ware: This temper'd with Vinegar, in which a little Sugar has been diſſolv'd, you have a Sauce ſupplying Muſtard to the Sallet, and ſerving likewiſe for any Diſh beſides.
52. Rampion, Rapunculus, or the Eſculent Campanula: The tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like thoſe of Radiſhes, but much more Nouriſhing.
53. Rocket, Eruca Spaniſh; hot and dry, to be qualified with Lettuce, Purcelain, and the reſt, &c. See Tarragon.
Roccombo. See Onions.
54. Roſemary, Roſmarinus; Soverainly Cephalic, and for the Memory, Sight, and Nerves, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our Sallet furniture, yet the Flowers, a little bitter, are always welcome in Vinegar; but above all, a freſh Sprig or two in a Glaſs of Wine. See Flowers.
55. Sage, Salvia; hot and dry. The tops of the Red, well pick'd and waſh'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almoſt imperceptible Inſects) with the Flowers, retain all the noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more eſpecially for the Head, Memory, Eyes, and all Paralytical Affections. In ſhort, 'tis a Plant endu'd with ſo many and wonderful Properties, as that the aſſiduous uſe of it is ſaid to render Men Immortal: We cannot therefore but allow the tender Summities of the young Leaves; but principally the Flowers in our cold Sallet; yet ſo as not to domineer.
Salſifax, Scorzonera. See Vipergraſs.
56. Sampier, Crithmum: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about Dover, &c.) not only Pickl'd, but crude and cold, when young and tender (and ſuch as we may Cultivate, and have in our Kitchin-Gardens, almoſt the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its Aromatic, and other excellent Vertues and Effects againſt the Spleen, Cleanſing the Paſſages, ſharpning Appetite, &c. ſo far preferrable to moſt of our hotter Herbs, and Sallet-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long ſince propagated in the Potagere, as it is in France; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have proſper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own Coaſts: It does not indeed Pickle ſo well, as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other reſpects for compoſing Sallets, it has nothing like it.
57. Scalions, Aſcalonia, Cepæ; The French call them Appetites, which it notably quickens and ſtirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The Italians ſteep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.
58. Scurvy-graſs, Cochlearia, of the Garden, but eſpecially that of the Sea, is ſharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like Naſturtium, prevalent in the Scorbute. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Compoſition. See Naſturtium Indicum.
59. Sellery, Apium Italicum, (and of the Petroſeline Family) was formerly a ſtranger with us (nor very long ſince in Italy) is an hot and more generous ſort of Macedonian Perſley, or Smallage. The tender Leaves of the Blancht Stalk do well in our Sallet, as likewiſe the ſlices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and ſhort, firſt peel'd and ſlit long wiſe, are eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, and Peper; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in the middle of the Grand Sallet, at our Great Mens Tables, and Prætors Feaſts, as the Grace of the whole Board. Caution is to be given of a ſmall red Worm, often lurking in theſe Stalks, as does the green in Fennil.
Shallots. See Onion.
60. Skirrets, Siſarum; hot and moiſt, corroborating, and good for the Stomach, exceedingly nouriſhing, wholſome and delicate; of all the Root-kind, not ſubject to be Windy, and ſo valued by the Emperor Tiberius, that he accepted them for Tribute.
This excellent Root is ſeldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, ſtew'd, roaſted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, ſliced, or in pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore ſomething bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!
61. Sorrel, Acetoſa: of which there are divers kinds. The French Acetocella, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the North of England; Roman Oxalis; the broad German, &c. but the beſt is of Green-Land: by nature cold, Abſterſive, Acid, ſharpning Appetite, aſſwages Heat, cools the Liver, ſtrengthens the Heart; is an Antiſcorbutic, reſiſting Putrefaction, and imparting ſo grateful a quickneſs to the reſt, as ſupplies the want of Orange, Limon, and other Omphacia, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide Wood-Sorrel.
62. Sow-thiſtle, Sonchus; of the Intybus-kind. Galen was us'd to eat it as Lettuce; exceedingly welcome to the late Morocco. Ambaſſador and his Retinue.
63. Sparagus, Aſparagus (ab Aſperitate) temperately hot, and moiſt; Cordial, Diuretic, eaſie of Digeſtion, and next to Fleſh, nothing more nourishing, as Sim. Sethius, an excellent Phyſician holds. They are ſometimes, but very ſeldom, eaten raw with Oyl, and Vinegar; but with more delicacy (the bitterneſs firſt exhauſted) being ſo ſpeedily boil'd, as not to loſe the verdure and agreeable tenderneſs; which is done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not eſteem the Dutch great and larger ſort (eſpecially rais'd by the rankneſs of the Beds) ſo ſweet and agreeable, as thoſe of a moderate ſize.
64. Spinach, Spinachia: of old not us'd in Sallets, and the oftner kept out the better; I ſpeak of the crude: But being boil'd to a Pult, and without other Water than its own moiſture, is a moſt excellent Condiment with Butter, Vinegar, or Limon, for almoſt all ſorts of boil'd Fleſh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis Laxative and Emollient, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a Spaniard) may be had at almoſt any Season, and in all places.
Stone-Crop, Sedum Minus. See Trick-Madame.
65. Succory, Cichorium, an Intube; erratic and wild, with a narrow dark Leaf, different from the Sative, tho' probably by culture only; and for being very bitter, a little edulcorated with Sugar and Vinegar, is by ſome eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See Endive.
66. Tansy, Tanacetum; hot and cleanſing; but in regard of its domineering reliſh, ſparingly mixt with our cold Sallet, and much fitter (tho' in very ſmall quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with the Juices of other freſh Herbs, Spinach, Green Corn, Violet, Primrose-Leaves, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried browniſh, is eaten hot with the Juice of Orange and Sugar, as one of the moſt agreeable of all the boil'd Herbaceous Diſhes.
67. Tarragon, Draco Herba, of Spaniſh Extraction; hot and ſpicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like thoſe of Rochet, never to be ſecluded our Compoſition, eſpecially where there is much Lettuce. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakneſs of the Ventricle, &c.
68. Thiſtle, Carduus Mariæ; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thiſtle, diſarm'd of its Prickles, is worth eſteem: The young Stalk about May, being peel'd and ſoak'd in Water, to extract the bitterneſs, boil'd or raw, is a very wholſome Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Salt, and Peper; ſome eat them ſodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the Artichoak; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, ſome preferr; both Nouriſhing and Reſtorative.
69. Trick-Madame, Sedum minus, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moiſt, grateful to the Stomach. The Cimata and Tops, when young and tender, dreſs'd as Purſelane, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold Sallet.
70. Turnep, Rapum; moderately hot and moiſt: Napus; the long Navet is certainly the moſt delicate of them, and best Nouriſhing. Pliny ſpeaks of no fewer than ſix ſorts, and of ſeveral Colours; ſome of which were ſuspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the red Bohemian. But of whatever kind, being ſown upon the Hot-bed, and no bigger than ſeedling Radiſh, they do excellently in Compoſition; as do alſo the Stalks of the common Turnep, when firſt beginning to Bud.
And here ſhould not be forgotten, that wholſome, as well as agreeable ſort of Bread, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten at the greateſt Perſons Tables, hardly to be distinguiſh'd from the beſt of Wheat.
Let the Turneps firſt be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till ſoft and tender; then ſtrongly preſſing out the Juice, mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, ſeaſon it as you do other Bread, and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to ferment, faſhion the Paſte into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.
Some roaſt Turneps in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with Sugar and Butter.
71. Vine, Vitis, the Capreols, Tendrels, and Claſpers (like thoſe of the Hop, &c.) whilſt very young, have an agreeable Acid, which may be eaten alone, or with other Sallet.
72. Viper-graſs, Tragopogon, Scorzonera, Salſifex, &c. tho' Medicinal, and excellent againſt the Palpitation of the Heart, Faintings, Obſtruction of the Bowels, &c. are beſides a very ſweet and pleaſant Sallet; being laid to ſoak out the bitterneſs, then peel'd, may be eaten raw, or Condited; but beſt of all ſtew'd with Marrow, Spice, Wine, &c. as Artichoak, Skirrets, &c. ſliced or whole. They likewiſe may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing.
73. Wood-Sorrel, Trifolium acetoſum, or Alleluja, of the nature of other Sorrels.
To all which might we add ſundry more, formerly had in deliciis, ſince grown obſolete or quite neglected with us: As among the nobleſt Bulbs, that of the Tulip; a Root of which has been valued not to eat, but for the Flower (and yet eaten by miſtake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young freſh Bulbs are ſweet and high of taſte. The Aſphodil or Daffodil; a Sallet ſo rare in Heſiod's Days, that Lobel thinks it the Parſnep, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the Mallow) taken anciently for any Edule-Root.
The Ornithogalons roaſted, as they do Cheſtnuts, are eaten by the Italians, the wild yellow eſpecially, with Oyl, Vinegar, and Peper. And ſo the ſmall tuberous Roots of Gramen Amygdaloſum; which they alſo roaſt, and make an Emulſion of, to uſe in Broaths as a great Reſtorative. The Oxylapathum, us'd of old; in the time of Galen was eaten frequently. As alſo Dracontium, with the Mordicant Arum Theophraſti, which Dodonæus teaches how to Dreſs. Nay, divers of the Satyrions, which ſome condited with Sugar, others boil'd in Milk for a great Nouriſher, now diſcarded. But what think we of the Cicuta, which there are who reckon among Sallet Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the Viola Matronalis, Radix Lunaria, &c. nay, the Green Poppy, by most accounted among the deadly Poyſons: How cautious then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; leſt they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robuſt and ſtrong conſtitutions? beſsides the hazard of being miſtaken in the Names of divers Simples, not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in Botany.
There are beſsides ſeveral remaining, which tho' Abdicated here with us, find Entertainment ſtill in Foreign Countries: As the large Heliotrope and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and ſhew its golden Face) which being dreſs'd as the Artichoak, is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Diſcovery. I once made Macaroons with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the Turpentine did ſo domineer over all, that it did not anſwer expectation. The Radix Perſonata mounting with their young Heads, Lyſimachia ſiliquoſa glabra minor, when freſh and tender, begins to come into the Sallet-Tribe. The pale whiter Popy, is eaten by the Genoueſe. By the Spaniards, the tops of Wormwood with Oyl alone, and without ſo much as Bread; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offenſive to the Head; As is alſo Coriander and Rue, which Galen was accuſtom'd to eat raw, and by it ſelf, with Oyl and Salt, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholſome, and of great vertue againſt Infection. Pliny, I remember, reports it to be of ſuch effect for the Preſervation of Sight; that the Painters of his Time, us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is ſtill by the Italians frequently mingled among their Sallets. The Lapatha Perſonata (common Burdock) comes now and then to the beſt Tables, about April, and when young, before the Burrs and Clots appear, being ſtrip'd, and the bitterneſs ſoaked out, treated as the Chardoon, is eaten in Poiverade; Some alſo boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but theſe may ſuffice; ſince as we find ſome are left off, and gone out, ſo others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The Cucumber it ſelf, now ſo univerſally eaten, being accounted little better than Poyſon, even within our Memory, as already noted.
To conclude, and after all that has been ſaid of Plants and Salleting, formerly in great eſteem, (but ſince obſolete and quite rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient Silphium ſhould come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly ſo highly priz'd, and rare for the richneſs of its Taſte and other Vertues; that as it was dedicated to Apollo, and hung up in his Temple at Delphi; So we read of one ſingle Root brought to the Emperor Nero for an extraordinary Preſent; and the Drug ſo eſteem'd, that the Romans had long before amaſs'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treaſury, till Julius Cæſar rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it was of that Account; that as a ſacred Plant, thoſe of the Cyrenaic Africa, honour'd the very Figure of it, by ſtamping it on the Reverſe of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies, Βατ-ου σιλφιον,
grew into a Proverb: Battus having been the Founder of the City Cyrene, near which it only grew. 'Tis indeed conteſted among the Learned Botanoſophiſts, whether this Plant was not the ſame with Laſerpitium, and the Laſer it yields, the odoriferous [45]Benzoin? But doubtleſs had we the true and genuine Silphium (for it appears to have been often ſophiſticated, and a ſpurious ſort brought into Italy) it would ſoon recover its priſtine Reputation, and that it was not celebrated ſo for nothing extraordinary; ſince beſsides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Reſtorer of loſt Appetite, and Maſculine Vigour, &c. and that they made uſe of it almoſt in every thing they eat.
But ſhould we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the [46]Faetid Aſſa our nicer Sallet-Eaters (who yet beſtow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as Ariſtophanes has brought it in, and ſufficiently deſcrib'd it; ſo the Scholiaſt upon the place, puts it out of Controverſy: And that they made uſe both of the Leaves, Stalk, (and Extract eſpecially) as we now do Garlick, and other Hautgouts as nauſeous altogether. In the mean time, Garcius, Bontius, and others, aſſure us, that the Indians at this day univerſally ſauce their Viands with it; and the Bramins (who eat no Fleſh at all) inrich their Sallets, by constantly rubbing the Diſhes with it. Nor are ſome of our own ſkilful Cooks Ingnorant, how to condite and uſe it, with the Applauſe of thoſe, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the richneſs of the Guſt it has imparted, when it has been ſubſtituted inſtead of all our Cipollati, and other ſeaſonings of that Nature.
And thus have we done with the various Species of all ſuch Eſculents as may properly enter the Compoſition of our Acetaria, and cold Sallet. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and primary Qualities, which Intend or Remit, as to the Scale of Heat, Cold, Drineſs, Moiſture, &c. (which is to be underſtood according to the different Texture of their component Particles) it has not been without what I thought neceſſary for the Inſtruction of the Gatherer, and Sallet-Dreſſer; how he ought to chooſe, ſort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.
What Care and Circumſpection ſhould attend the choice and collection of Sallet Herbs, has been partly ſhew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of ſome, who tell us, that a Fool is as fit to be the Gatherer of a Sallet as a Wiſer Man. Becauſe, ſay they, one can hardly chooſe amiſs, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But ſad experience ſhews, how many fatal Miſtakes have been committed by thoſe who took the deadly Cicutæ, Hemlocks, Aconits, &c. for Garden Perſley, and Parſneps; the Myrrhis Sylveſtris, or Cow-Weed, for Chaerophilum, (Chervil) Thapſia for Fennel; the wild Chondrilla for Succory; Dogs-Mercury inſtead of Spinach: Papaver Corniculatum Luteum, and horn'd Poppy for Eringo; Oenanthe aquatica for the Paluſtral Apium, and a world more, whoſe dire effects have been many times ſudden Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to thoſe who have eaten of them unwittingly: But ſuppoſing ſome of thoſe wild and unknown Plants ſhould not prove ſo deleterious and [47]unwholſome; yet may others of them annoy the Head, Brain, and Genus Nervoſum, weaken the Eyes, offend the Stomach, affect the Liver, torment the Bowels, and diſcover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful Symptoms. And therefore ſuch Plants as are rather Medicinal than Nouriſhing and Refreſhing, are ſtudiouſly to be rejected. So highly neceſſary it is, that what we ſometimes find in old Books concerning Edules of other Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of ſuch as are wholſome in ours, and among us) miſlead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we read of divers Popes and Emperors, that had ſometimes Learned Phyſicians for their Maſter-Cooks. I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. Ray [48](Tranſact. Num. 238.) who thinks it the Intereſt of Mankind, that all Perſons ſhould be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice: Of ſuch, I ſay, with our excellent [49]Poet (a little chang'd)
Happy from ſuch conceal'd, if ſtill do lie,
Of Roots and Herbs the unwholſome Luxury.
The Illuſtrious and Learned Columna has, by obſerving what [50]Inſects did uſually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. But I ſhould not ſo readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholſomneſs: For tho' indeed one may ſafely eat of a Peach or Abricot, after a Snail has been Taſter, I queſtion whether it might be ſo of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other Inſects: Nor would one conclude, the Hyoſcyamus harmleſs, because the Cimex feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. Lyſter has diſcover'd. Notice ſhould therefore be taken what Eggs of Inſects are found adhering to the Leaves of Sallet-Herbs, and frequently cleave ſo firmly to them, as not eaſily to be waſh'd off, and ſo not being taken notice of, paſſing for accidental and harmleſs Spots only, may yet produce very ill effects.
Grillus, who according to the Doctrine of Tranſmigration (as Plutarch tells us) had, in his turn, been a Beaſt; diſcourſes how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to Man again, as knowing then, what Plants were beſt and moſt proper for him: Whilſt Men, Sarcophagiſts (Fleſh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to ſeek. And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other πανφαγα,
and herbaceous Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (beſsides the Smell and Taſte) have, or ſhould have, Reaſon, Experience, and the Aids of Natural Philoſophy to be their Guides in this Matter. We have heard of Plants, that (like the Baſilisk) kill and infect by [51]looking on them only; and ſome by the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senſes to determine Analogically concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the Leaves alone of many Edule Plants: The moſt eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of Sallet Vegetables, inclining rather to Acid and Sowre than to any other quality, eſpecially, Salt, Sweet, or Luſcious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to ſuit and mingle our Sallet-Ingredients, ſo as may beſt agree with the Conſtitution of the (vulgarly reputed) Humors of thoſe who either ſtand in need of, or affect theſe Refreſhments, and by ſo adjuſting them, that as nothing ſhould be ſuffer'd to domineer, ſo ſhould none of them loſe their genuine Guſt, Savour, or Vertue. To this end,
The Cooler, and moderately refreſhing, ſhould be choſen to extinguiſh Thirſt, attemper the Blood, repreſs Vapours, &c.
The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moiſt: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the Sub-acid and gentler Herbs: The Mordicant and pungent, and ſuch as repreſs or diſcuſs Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with ſuch as abate, and take off the keenneſs, mollify and reconcile the more harſh and churliſh: The mild and inſipid, animated with piquant and brisk: The Aſtringent and Binders, with ſuch as are Laxative and Deobſtruct: The over-ſluggish, raw, and unactive, with thoſe that are Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are Pectorals for the Breaſt and Bowels. Thoſe of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or leſs Specific; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are deſcrib'd in our foregoing Catalogue: For notwithſtanding it ſeem in general, that raw Sallets and Herbs have experimentally been found to be the most ſoveraign Diet in that Endemial (and indeed with us, Epidemical and almoſt univerſal) Contagion the Scorbute, to which we of this Nation, and moſt other Ilanders are obnoxious; yet, ſince the Naſturtia are ſingly, and alone as it were, the moſt effectual, and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the Sallet-Dreſſer direction how to chooſe, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as to ſhew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of Sallet-Plants upon all Occaſions, rightly marſhal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]ſweet Cowley)
If thro' the ſtrong and beauteous Fence
Of Temperance and Innocence,
And wholſome Labours, and a quiet Mind,
Diſeaſes paſſage find;
They muſt not think here to aſſail
A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,
They muſt fight for it, and diſpute it hard,
Before they can prevail;
Scarce any Plant is uſed here,
Which 'gainſt ſome Aile a Weapon does not bear.
We have ſaid how neceſſary it is, that in the Compoſure of a Sallet, every Plant ſhould come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by ſome Herb of a ſtronger Taſte, ſo as to endanger the native Sapor and vertue of the reſt; but fall into their places, like the Notes in Muſic, in which there ſhould be nothing harſh or grating: And tho' admitting ſome Diſcords (to diſtinguiſh and illuſtrate the reſt) ſtriking in the more ſprightly, and ſometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Diſſonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Compoſition. Thus the Comical Maſter-Cook, introduc'd by Damoxenus, when asked πως εσις αυτοις ονμφονια;
What Harmony there was in Meats? The very ſame (ſays he) that a Diateſſaron, Diapente, and Diapaſon have one to another in a Conſort of Muſic: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle [53]Sapores minime conſentientes, jarring and repugnant Taſtes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who ſhould be no better vers'd in Democritus. The whole Scene is very diverting, as Athenæus preſents it; and to the ſame ſenſe Macrobius, Saturn. lib. I. cap. I. In ſhort, the main Skill of the Artiſt lies in this:
What choice to chooſe, for delicacy beſt;
What Order ſo contriv'd, as not to mix
Taſtes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring
Taſte after Taſte, upheld by kindlieſt change.
As our [54]Paradiſian Bard introduces Eve, dreſſing of a Sallet for her Angelical Gueſt.
Thus, by the diſcreet choice and mixture of the Oxoleon (Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.) the Compoſition is perfect; ſo as neither the Prodigal, Niggard, nor Inſipid, ſhould (according to the Italian Rule) preſcribe in my Opinion; ſince One may be too profuſe, the Other [55]over-ſaving, and the Third (like himſelf) give it no Reliſh at all: It may be too ſharp, if it exceed a grateful Acid; too Inſulſe and flat, if the Profuſion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wiſe-Man is the proper Compoſer of an excellent Sallet, and how many Tranſcendences belong to an accompliſh'd Sallet-Dreſſer, ſo as to emerge an exact Critic indeed, He ſhould be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various Species of Taſtes, according to the Scheme ſet us down in the Tables of the Learned [56]Dr. Grew, to which I refer the Curious.
'Tis moreover to be conſider'd, that Edule Plants are not in all their Taſtes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to conſiſt of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; ſo require they different Juices to nouriſh and ſupply them: Wherefore the force and activity of ſome Plants lie in the Root; and even the Leaves of ſome Bitter-Roots are ſweet, and è contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction; others being a little preſs'd or contus'd; others again Raw, and beſt in Conſort; ſome alone, and per ſe without any σκενασια,
Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore muſt be taken by the Collector, that what he gathers anſwer to theſe Qualities; and that as near as he can, they conſiſt (I ſpeak of the cruder Salleting) of the Oluſcula, and ex foliis pubeſcentibus, or (as Martial calls them) Prototomi rudes, and very tendereſt Parts Gems, young Buds, and even firſt Rudiments of their ſeveral Plants; ſuch as we ſometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver, Stock-Dove, Partridge, Pheaſants, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural Sallet, pick'd, and almoſt dreſs'd to our hands.
I. Preparatory to the Dreſſing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquiſitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, ſlimy, canker'd, dry, ſpotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather diſcreetly ſprinkl'd, than over-much ſob'd with Spring-Water, eſpecially Lettuce, which Dr. [57]Muffet thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I ſuppoſe he means of the Cabbage-kind, whoſe heads are ſufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After waſhing, let them remain a while in the Cullender, to drain the ſuperfluous moiſture: And laſtly, ſwing them altogether gently in a clean courſe Napkin; and ſo they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus following.
II. That the Oyl, an Ingredient ſo indiſpenſibly and highly neceſſary, as to have obtain'd the name of Cibarium (and with us of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green, without Smell, or the leaſt touch of rancid, or indeed of any other ſensible Taſte or Scent at all; but ſmooth, light, and pleaſant upon the Tongue; ſuch as the genuine Omphacine, and native Luca Olives afford, fit to allay the tartneſs of Vinegar, and other Acids, yet gently to warm and humectate where it paſſes. Some who have an averſion to Oyl, ſubſtitute freſh Butter in its ſtead; but 'tis ſo exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.
III. Thirdly, That the Vinegar and other liquid Acids, perfectly clear, neither ſowre, Vapid or ſpent; be of the beſt Wine Vinegar, whether Diſtill'd, or otherwiſe Aromatiz'd, and impregnated with the Infuſion of Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, Roſes, Roſemary, Naſturtium, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.
A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet, is made by a Grape of that Name, or the green immature Cluſters of moſt other Grapes, preſs'd and put into a ſmall Veſſel to ferment.
IV. Fourthly, That the Salt (aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum, as Plutarch calls it) deterſive, penetrating, quickning (and ſo great a reſiſter of Putrefaction, and univerſal uſe, as to have ſometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brighteſt Bay grey-Salt; moderately dried, and contus'd, as being the leaſt Corroſive: But of this, as of Sugar alſo, which ſome mingle with the Salt (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, ſave Ladies, were of the Meſs; whilſt the perfection of Sallets, and that which gives them the name, conſiſts in the grateful Saline Acid-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be moſt eſteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been ſo nice, and luxuriouſly curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to ſpeak) giving the utmoſt poinant and Relevèe in lieu of our vulgar Salt, to recommend and cry-up the Eſſential-Salts and Spirits of the moſt Sanative Vegetables; or ſuch of the Alcalizate and Fixt; extracted from the Calcination of Baulm, Roſemary, Wormwood, Scurvy-graſs, &c. Affirming that without the groſs Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreſhing Cordials, and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-Cellar only: But to ſay no more of this Impertinence, as to Salts of Vegetables; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in Taſte, Cryſtals, and Figure: It being a queſtion, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their Simples, unleſs they could be made without Colcination. Franciſcus Redi, gives us his Opinion of this, in a Proceſs how they are to be prepar'd; and ſo does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether Lixivial, Eſſential, Marine, or other factitious Salts of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But ſince 'tis thought all Fixed Salts made the common way, are little better than our common Salt, let it ſuffice, that our Sallet-Salt be of the beſt ordinary Bay-Salt, clean, bright, dry, and without clamineſs.
Of Sugar (by ſome call'd Indian-Salt) as it is rarely us'd in Sallet, it ſhould be of the beſt refined, white, hard, cloſe, yet light and ſweet as the Madera's: Nouriſhing, preſerving, cleanſing, delighting the Taſte, and preferrable to Honey for moſt uſes. Note, That both this, Salt, and Vinegar, are to be proportion'd to the Conſtitution, as well as what is ſaid of the Plants themſelves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.
V. That the Muſtard (another noble Ingredient) be of the beſt Tewksberry; or elſe compos'd of the ſoundest and weightieſt Yorkſhire Seed, exquiſitely ſifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the conſiſtence of a Pap with Vinegar, in which ſhavings of the Horſe-Radiſh have been ſteep'd: Then cutting an Onion, and putting it into a ſmall Earthen Gally-Pot, or ſome thick Glaſs of that ſhape; pour the Muſtard over it, and cloſe it very well with a Cork. There be, who preſerve the Flower and Duſt of the bruiſed Seed in a well-ſtopp'd Glaſs, to temper, and have it freſh when they pleaſe. But what is yet by ſome eſteem'd beyond all theſe, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the Indian Naſturtium, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little Levain, and ſo from time to time made freſh, as indeed all other Muſtard ſhould be.
Note, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a poliſh'd Cannon-Bullet, in a large wooden Bowl-Diſh, or which is moſt preferr'd, ground in a Quern contriv'd for this purpoſe only.