Transcriber's Note:
This cover was created for this edition using the plain red cover and the original title page and is placed in the public domain.

All spelling on the monthly menus was retained as printed, for example, "Begetables." In the remaining text, spelling was only changed where a clear majority of usage could be found in the same text. For example, "benshamelle" for "béchamel" was retained while "posssible" for "possible" was corrected.

THE
ART OF COOKERY
MADE EASY AND REFINED.

THE
ART OF COOKERY
MADE EASY AND REFINED;

COMPRISING
AMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING EVERY ARTICLE
REQUISITE FOR FURNISHING THE TABLES
OF THE
NOBLEMAN, GENTLEMAN, AND TRADESMAN.
BY

JOHN MOLLARD, Cook;

Lately one of the Proprietors of Freemasons' Tavern, Great
Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields; now removed to
Dover Street, Piccadilly, formerly Thomas's.
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR,
AND SOLD BY J. NUNN, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S
INN FIELDS, AND ALL BOOKSELLERS IN TOWN
AND COUNTRY.
1802.
T. Bensley, Bolt Court, Fleet Street.

PREFACE.

The mode of cookery which the author of the following sheets has pursued for a series of years having obtained the most distinguished approbation of the public, has induced him to commit his practice to paper; in doing which, a deviation has been made from the usual introductory methods of other treatises of the kind, in omitting to give particular directions for the choice of fish, meats, poultry, and vegetables, and at what times they respectively might be in season, &c. &c. the author conceiving the simpler method to be the most acceptable: and, therefore, as actual knowledge must ever supersede written forms, he would advise a frequent attendance at the different markets, fully assured that experience will convey greater instruction in marketing than all the theories which could be advanced. There are, nevertheless, some useful observations interspersed in the course of the work for that purpose; the author having confined himself chiefly to the practical part of cookery; he has also given some directions in a branch of the confectionary business: in both of which it has been his constant endeavour that they might be rendered as simple and easy as possible, and that economy might pervade the whole.

The receipts are written for the least possible quantities in the different made-dishes and sauces, it being a frequent error in most of the books that they are too expensive and too long; by which means the art has been rendered intricate in the extreme, both in theory and practice.

Independent, also, of a close adherence to any given rules, there are other qualities essential to the completion of a thorough cook; such as, an acute taste, a fertile invention, and a rigid attention to cleanliness.

The preceding hints and subsequent directions, it is hoped, will prove fully adequate to perfection in cookery; the work being entirely divested of the many useless receipts from other professions, (which have been uniformly introduced in books of the like nature,) and nothing inserted but what has an immediate reference to the art itself.

There is prefixed a Bill of Fare for each month in the year, as a specimen of the seasons, which may be altered as judgment directs. There is annexed, also, at the end of the volume, an Index, by which, from the first letter or word of the different articles, will be found their respective receipts.

February 2d, 1802.

CONTENTS.

ERRATA.

THE
ART of COOKERY.

Beef Stock.

Cut chuck beef into pieces, put it into a pot, set it on the fire, with a sufficient quantity of water to cover it. When it boils skim it clean; add a bunch of parsley and thyme, cleaned carrots, leeks, onions, turnips, celery, and a little salt. Let the meat boil till tender, skim off the fat, then strain it through a fine hair sieve.

Veal Stock, for Soups.

Take a leg of veal and some lean ham, cut them into pieces, put them into a pan with a quart of water, some peeled carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery; draw them down till nearly tender, but of no colour; then add a sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover the ingredients, boil all together one hour, skim it free from fat, and strain it. Some game drawn down with it will make it excellent.

N. B. I have directed the veal stock not to be drawn down to a colour, as in that state it will answer two purposes; first, for white soups; and, secondly, as it might be coloured with a bright liquid to any height, which will be directed for gravy soups. It frequently happens, likewise, that, if not strictly attended to, it will burn.

Consumé, or the Essence of Meat.

Reduce veal stock to a good consistence, but be careful not to let it colour.

Cullis, or a thick Gravy.

Take slices of ham, veal, celery, carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, a small bunch of sweet herbs, some allspice, black pepper, mace, a piece of lemon-peel, and two bay leaves; put them into a pan with a quart of water, and draw them down till of a light brown colour, but be careful not to let it burn; then discharge it with beef stock. When it boils, skim it very clean from fat, and thicken it with flour and water, or flour and butter passed. Let it boil gently three quarters of an hour; season it to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt; strain it through a tamis cloth or sieve, and add a little liquid of colour, which may be made as in the following receipt.

Liquid of Colour for Sauces, &c.

Put a quarter of a pound of the best brown sugar into a frying pan very clean from grease, and half a gill of water; set it over a gentle fire, stirring it with a wooden spoon till it is thoroughly burnt and of a good bright colour, then discharge it with water; when it boils skim it and strain it. Put it by for use in a vessel close covered.

Benshamelle.

Take white veal, lean ham, turnips, celery, onions cut in pieces, a blade of mace, a little whole white pepper; sweat them down till three parts tender, then discharge it with beef stock. Let it boil, skim it clean, and thicken with flour and water, or flour and butter passed; add to it a sufficient quantity of cream to make it quite white. Let it simmer gently half an hour, and strain it through a tamis cloth.

N. B. Let it be of the thickness of light batter.

To make a passing of Flour and Butter for Cullis or Benshamelle.

Put fresh butter into a stewpan over a fire, when it is melted add a sufficient quantity of sifted flour to make it into a paste, and mix them together with a whisk over a very slow fire for ten minutes.

Soup a la Reine.

Take three quarts of veal stock with a blade of mace boiled in it; then strain it to the crumb of four penny french rolls, three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds blanched and pounded very fine, likewise the white meat of dressed fowl pounded. Let all simmer together for ten minutes, and rub them through a tamis cloth till the soup is of a proper thickness; season it to the palate with salt; make it boil, and serve it up with a gill of cream in it.

Crayfish Soup.

Take three quarts of veal stock, the crumb of four penny french rolls, the meats of a hen lobster, and half a hundred crayfish pounded, with some live lobster spawn; add all together, make it boil, skim it clean, rub it through a tamis cloth, make it of a middling thickness, and season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Serve it up with crust of french bread cut into small round pieces.

Vermicelli Soup, white.

Take three quarts of veal stock and two ounces of vermicelli, boil them together a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tamis cloth, season with salt, make it boil, skim it, and add a leason. Let it simmer for five minutes.

To make the Leason.

Take the yolks of four eggs, half a pint of cream, and a little salt, mixed well together.

Cleared brown Stock for Gravy Soups.

Take three quarts of veal stock perfectly free from fat; add a small quantity of liquid colour to make it of a fine brown; season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper; beat up together two yolks, two whites, and two shells of eggs; whisk them with the stock, set it over a fire, let it boil gently ten minutes, then strain it through a tamis cloth. This stock is required for rice, brown vermicelli, celery, santé, or turnip soups.

N. B. I have directed the brown stock, for gravy soups only, to be cleared with eggs, as that method has been most approved, it being pleasant to the eye, and equally agreeable to the palate.

Rice Soup.

Add to three quarts of cleared stock two ounces of rice, washed, picked, parboiled, and drained dry. Let it boil gently till the rice is tender.

Celery Soup.

Cut celery heads two inches long then, some of the white part into small pieces; wash, blanch, and drain it, and put to it three quarts of cleared stock. Make it boil, skim it, and let the celery simmer till tender.

Turnip Soup.

Pare good and firm turnips, cut them with a knife or scoop into shapes, fry them with a bit of lard till of a light brown colour, then drain and wipe them free from fat (or they may be steamed with a very little water, to prevent them from burning, till they are half done); then put to them cleared stock, and boil them gently till tender.

Cressey Soup.

Take twelve large red carrots, scrape them clean, cut off only the red part in thin slices, and put them in a stewpan with a quart of water; add cleaned turnips, celery, leeks, and onions, cut in pieces, and half a pint of split peas. Stew all together till tender, adding some stock to prevent burning; then rub it through a tamis, and put to the pulp five pints of veal stock and some blanched water-cresses; make it boil for twenty minutes, skim it, season it with salt, and serve it up.

N. B. To be the thickness of peas soup.

Santé, or Spring Soup.

Pare, and cut into shapes, turnips and carrots, likewise celery heads about two inches long; wash them, and steam them separately with a very little water till they are three parts done; then cut the white part of the celery into small pieces, likewise leeks, cabbage, cos lettuces, endive, and chervil, of each a small quantity; blanch and drain them dry, then put all the vegetables together; add to them three quarts of cleared brown stock, and boil them gently till tender. In spring add young green peas, tops of asparagus, and button onions, steamed as the above.

N. B. A small piece of bouillie beef may be stewed till tender; and ten minutes before it is to be served up wipe it dry, and put it into the soup with the vegetables.

Onion Soup.

Take eight middling-sized peeled onions, cut them into very thin slices, pass them with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and flour till tender; then add three quarts of veal stock; make it boil twenty minutes; skim it, season it with salt, and add a leason; mix it well with a whisk, make it simmer, and serve it up.

Green Peas Soup.

Take one quart of young green peas, four turnips pared and cut in the form of dice, two cos lettuces cut in small slices, two middling-sized onions cut very fine; wash them, add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and stew them till nearly done. Then take two quarts of large fresh green peas, and boil them in three quarts of veal stock till tender; strain and pound them, preserving the liquor; then rub the peas through a tamis, and add the pulp with the liquor to the above herbs, a little flour and water, pepper and salt, and season to the palate, with a bit of sugar if approved. Boil all together half an hour; skim it and when it is to be served up, add the pulp of some boiled parsley rubbed through a tamis to make it look green.

N. B. Cut pieces of bread into thin sippets, dry them before the fire, and serve up on a plate.

Old Peas Soup.

Take chuck beef cut into pieces, knuckles of ham and veal, pickle pork cut into square pieces of half a pound each; put all into a pot with peeled turnips, leeks, onions, carrots, and celery, cut into slices, and some old split peas, with a sufficient quantity of water; when it boils, skim it, and add a very small bunch of dried mint. Let the ingredients boil till tender, then take the mint out, rub the soup through a tamis till of a good thickness; when done, add to the liquor, turnips cut in form of dice, celery and leeks cut small and washed. Make the soup boil, skim it, season with pepper and salt, and serve it up with the pork in it. Some bread cut in form of dice, and fried, to be served up on a dish.

N. B. The pork to be taken out when nearly done, and added to the soup half an hour before it is served up.

Peas Soup another way.

Put the peas with the above-mentioned vegetables into a pot with some water; stew them gently till tender, then add a little dried mint, and rub them through a tamis cloth; put the pulp to some good veal stock, likewise add some turnips pared and cut into forms like dice, some leeks and celery cut small and blanched; season to the palate with pepper and salt; then making it boil, skim it, and stew the herbs till tender. Serve it up with pieces of pickle pork in it.

N. B. The pickle pork to be cut into small square pieces and boiled till nearly done, and then added to the soup a quarter of an hour before it is to be served up to table. Let the soup be of a proper thickness.

Giblet Soup.

Let the giblets be scalded, picked clean, and cut in pieces; which done, put them in a stewpan, season them with herbs and spice, the same as for real turtle; add some veal stock, stew them till nearly done, pick them free from the herbs, chop the bones down, strain, thicken, and season the liquor, as for real turtle; make it boil, then add it to the giblets, stew them till tender, and serve them up with egg and forcemeat balls.

Fish Meagré Soup.

Take pieces of different sorts of fish, such as salmon, skate, soles, &c. Sweat them till tender, with turnip, onion, celery, a clove of garlick, and a blade of mace; then add some plain veal broth. Let all simmer together for half an hour; then strain and skim it free from fat; season with salt and cayenne pepper; clear it with white of eggs, and colour with a little saffron.

N. B. It may be served up with celery or rice in it.

Mock Turtle of Calf's Head.

Take a scalp cleaned by the butcher, scald it for twenty minutes, then wash it clean, cut it into pieces two inches square, add a gallon of veal stock, and boil them till nearly done. Have ready some pieces of veal cut in form of dice, but four times larger, seasoned with herbs, spices, and onions, the same as real turtle; and strain to it the liquor the scalp is boiled in. Let the meat simmer till almost done; pick it, and add to it the scalp with forcemeat and egg balls; then thicken the liquor as for real turtle, and when it boils skim it clean, put it to the meats, and simmer all together half an hour.

Mutton Broth.

Take a neck of mutton cut into pieces, preserving a handsome piece to be served up in the tureen. Put all in a stewpot with three quarts of cold beef stock, or water with a little oatmeal mixed in it, some turnips, onions, leeks, celery cut in pieces, and a small bunch of thyme and parsley. When it boils skim it clean, and take the piece of mutton out when nearly done, and let the other boil till tender; then have ready turnips cut in form of dice, some leeks, celery, half a cabbage, and parsley, all cut small, and some marigolds; wash them, strain the liquor of the meat, skim it free from fat, add it to the ingredients, with the piece of mutton, and a little pearl barley if approved; season with salt, simmer all together till done, and serve it up with toasted bread on a plate.

Real Turtle.

Hang the turtle up by the hind fins, and cut off the head overnight; in the morning cut off the fore fins at the joints, and the callipee all round; then take out the entrails, and be careful not to break the gall; after which cut off the hind fins and all the meat from the bones, callipee and callipash; then chop the callipee and callipash into pieces; scald them together, the fins being whole, but take care not to let the scales set. When cleaned, chop the fins into pieces four inches long; wash the pieces of the callipee, callipash, and fins, and put them into a pot with the bones and a sufficient quantity of water to cover; then add a bunch of sweet herbs and whole onions, and skim it when the liquor boils. When the fins are nearly done take them out, together with the remainder of the turtle, when done, picked free from bone. Then strain the liquor and boil it down till reduced to one third part; after which cut the meat into pieces four times larger than dice; put it into a pot, add a mixture of herbs chopped fine, such as knotted marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley, a very little basil, some chopped onions, some beaten spices, as allspice, a few cloves, a little mace, black pepper, salt, some veal stock, and the liquor that was reduced. Boil the meat till three parts done, pick it free from herbs, strain the liquor through a tamis sieve, make a passing of flour and three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, mixing it well over a fire for some time, and then add to it madeira wine, (if a turtle of seventy pounds weight, three pints,) and the liquor of the meat. When it boils, skim it clean, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt, and strain it to the pieces of fins and shell in one pot, and the lean meat into another; and if the turtle produce any real green fat, let it be boiled till done, then strained, cut into pieces, and added to the fins and shell, and then simmer each meat till tender. When it is to be served up, put a little fat at the bottom of the tureens, some lean in the center, and more fat at the top, with egg and force-meat balls, and a few entrails.

N. B. The entrails must be cleaned well, then boiled in water till very tender, and preserved as white as possible, and just before they are strained off add the balls. If a callipash is served up, the shell to be cut down on each side, and chop the pieces for the soup; the remaining part of the back shell to be pasted round with a raised crust, egged, ornamented, and baked, and the soup served in it in the same manner as in the tureens.

Callipee.

Take a quarter of the under part of a turtle of sixty pounds weight, and scald it, and when done, take the shoulder-bone out and fill the cavity with a good high-seasoned forcemeat made with the lean of the turtle; put it into a stewpan, and add a pint of madeira wine, cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, a clove of garlick, a little mace, a few cloves and allspice tied in a bag, a bunch of sweet herbs, some whole onions, and three quarts of good beef stock. Stew gently till three parts done; then take the turtle and put it into another stewpan, with some of the entrails boiled and some egg balls; add a little thickening of flour and butter to the liquor, let it boil, and strain it to the turtle, &c. then stew it till tender, and the liquor almost reduced to a glaize. Serve it up in a deep dish, pasted round as a callipash, ornamented and baked.

N. B. I think the above mode of serving it up in a dish the best, as it frequently happens that the shell of the callipee is not properly baked.

Glaize for Hams, Larding, roasted Poultry, &c.

Take a leg of veal, lean of ham, beef, some indifferent fowls, celery, turnips, carrots, onions, leeks cleaned and cut into pieces, a little lemon peel, mace, and black pepper, a small quantity of each; add three quarts of water, sweat them down till three parts done, discharge with water, and boil it till the goodness is extracted; then skim it, and strain the liquor into a large pan. Next day take the fat from it very clean; set the stock over a fire, and when warm clear it with whites and a few yolks of eggs; then add a little colour and strain it through a tamis; boil it quick till reduced to a glaize, and be careful not to let it burn.

N. B. In the same manner may be made glaize of separate herbs or roots, which will be serviceable on board a ship, or in the country, where herbs or roots cannot be procured at all times; and they are to be preserved in bottles, as they will not, when cold, be of a portable substance.

Fish plain boiled to be prepared thus:

Put them in clean boiling pump water well salted, and when served up to be garnished with fresh picked parsley and scraped horseradish; except salt fish, which should be properly soaked, then cut in pieces and put in cold water, and when it boils let it simmer six or eight minutes, and serve it up on a napkin with boiled parsnips and potatoes round, or on a plate, and egg sauce in a boat.

N. B. Fish should be chosen very fresh and of good appearance, it adding as much to their beauty as gratifying to the palate when dressed, there being in my opinion but two sorts—good and bad. But as an exception to the above observation, skate will be better for eating if kept for one or two days in a cool place before it is dressed.

Fish generally fried.

Pieces of skate.
Whitings.
Fillets of haddocks.
Smelts.
Soles.
Perch.
Flounders.
Slices of hollibut.
Slices of cod.

To prepare the above for frying, &c.

Wipe the different sorts of fish dry, beat yolk of eggs, and spread it over them with a paste brush; then put crumbs of bread over the egg. Have plenty of lard in an iron frying pan, and when it almost boils put a proper quantity and fry them of a fine gold colour; drain them dry, and serve them up with fried parsley.

N. B. The crumbs to be rubbed through a hair sieve. The parsley also to be picked, washed, and dried with a cloth, then to be put into the lard not very hot, and fried of a green colour. Sprinkle a little salt over.

Broiled Fish prepared thus:

Wipe the fish dry, flour them well, and have the gridiron clean; then rub the bars with a veal caul, and put the fish at a proper distance. Broil them gently over a clear coal fire till of a fine colour, and serve them up directly.

N. B. Fish in general to be floured, except herrings, which are only to be scored with a knife, and the following methods of broiling other fish to be observed.

Broiled Salmon to be prepared thus:

Take pieces or slices of salmon, wipe them dry, dip them in sweet oil, and season with pepper and salt; fold them in pieces of writing paper, broil over a clear fire, and serve them up very hot.

N. B. In the same manner are to be done red mullets, &c.

Broiled Mackarel, common way.

Wipe them dry, split them down the back, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and broil them gently.

To stew Fish.

Add to some cullis a few chopped eshallots, anchovies, a bay leaf, horseradish scraped, a little quantity of lemon peel, and some red port; season it well with cayenne pepper, salt, and juice of lemon, and when it boils let it be of a proper thickness, and strain it to the fish; then stew it gently, and serve it up in a deep dish with the liquor, and fried bread round it. If carp or tench, some of the hard roe mixed in batter and fried in pieces. The roes likewise of different fish may be stewed in the same manner, and served up as a dish of themselves. Eels, soles, or other fish may be done the same way.

Water souchée of Perch, Flounders, Soles, Eels, &c.

Take perch cleaned and fresh crimped; put them into boiling pump water well-seasoned with salt, and when they boil, skim them clean. Take them out with a large skimmer, put them into a deep dish, strew parsley roots and scalded parsley over, and add some of the liquor. Serve them up as hot as possible, with slices of brown bread and butter on a plate.

N. B. The time the fish are to boil must be according to their size; and the parsley roots are to be cleaned, cut into slips, and boiled by themselves till tender.

Roasted Pike or Sturgeon.

Let the fish be well cleaned, then make a stuffing of capers, anchovies, parsley and thyme chopped fine, a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, fresh butter, and an egg. Fill the fish and sew it up; turn it round, and fasten the head with the tail; then egg the fish over and breadcrumb it; after which bake or roast it gently till done, and of a good brown colour. Serve it up with a sauce over, made of cullis, fresh butter, cayenne, anchovie essence, and lemon pickle.

Bacquillio with Herbs.

Let the fish be well soaked; then boil them and pick free from bone. Wash and chop small some spinach, sorrel, green onions, and parsley; after which add fresh butter, essence of anchovies, cayenne pepper, and plenty of the juice of seville oranges. Sweat the herbs down, add the fish, and simmer them till tender.

Entrée of Eels.

Take good-sized eels, bone and cut them in pieces of three inches long; pass them over a slow fire in a small quantity of sweet herbs and eshallots, fresh butter, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When three parts done put all on a dish, dip each piece in the liquor, breadcrumb, and broil them over a clear fire. Serve them up with anchovie sauce in a boat.

Entrée of Soles.

Let good-sized soles be cleaned and filletted; roll them up, put them into a stewpan, add a little fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper, and salt, and simmer them over a slow fire till done. Serve them up with a sauce over, made of button onions, mushrooms, egg balls, pickle cucumbers scooped round, slices of sweetbreads, and good strong cullis coloured with lobster spawn.

N. B. The above fillets may be fried, and served up with the sauce round.

Entrée of Whitings, &c.

Take fillets of haddocks or whitings, wet them with whites of eggs, and lay upon them slices of salmon, seasoned with pepper and salt. Put them into a stewpan with a little fresh butter; stew the fish over a slow fire till done, with the pan close covered. Serve them up with a sauce over, made with chopped parsley, chopped mushrooms and eshallots, a little rhenish wine, mustard, and cullis, mixed and boiled together for ten minutes.

Entrée of Salmon.

Make white paper cases, and put a little sweet oil at the bottom of each. Cut into pieces some fresh salmon, pepper and salt them, and put them into the cases; then set them over a fire on a baking plate and in a stewpan covered over, with a fire at top and bottom. When broiled enough, serve them up with poached eggs on the top of the salmon, and anchovie sauce in a boat.

Entrée of Smelts, &c.

Clean, turn round, and fry of a good colour, some fresh smelts; then three parts boil a slice of fresh crimped cod cut two inches thick; pull it into flakes, have ready some benshamelle, whisk it with the yolks of two eggs, add the flakes of the cod, season with salt and lemon juice to the palate, and simmer the fish over a slow stove till done. Serve it up with the fried smelts round the dish, and a few over the stew.

Entrée of Mackarel.

Split them down the back, season with pepper and salt, and lay a sprig of fennel in them. Broil them gently, and when served up, the fennel to be taken out, and a mixture of fresh butter, chopped parsley, green onions, pepper, salt, and plenty of lemon juice to be put in its stead.

Mackarel the German way.

Split them down the back and season with pepper and salt; broil them, and serve them up with the following sauce in a boat:—pick and wash fennel, parsley, mint, thyme, and green onions, a small quantity of each. Boil them tender in a little veal broth; then chop and add to them some fresh butter, the liquor, a grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, a little cayenne pepper and salt. Let it boil, and make it of a proper thickness with flour and water.

Olios, or a Spanish Dish.

The articles that are wanted consist of the following: viz.

Leg of mutton of ten pounds.
Leg of veal ditto.
Chuck beef ditto.
Lean ham six pounds.
Best end of a neck of mutton.
Breast of veal, small.
Two pieces of bouillie beef of one pound each.
Two pair of pigs feet and ears.
A bologna sausage.
A fowl.
A pheasant.
Two partridges.
Two ruffs and rees.
Two quails.
Two teal.
Two pigeons.
Two rabbits.
One hare.
Two stags tongues.
One quart of burgonza peas.
Turnips.
Carrots.
Celery.
Onions.
Leeks.
Parsley.
Thyme.
Garlick.
Allspice.
Cloves.
Mace.
Nutmegs.
Black pepper.
Haricot roots.
Fried bread.
Eggs.
Saffron, and
Lemons.

The Olio to be made as follows:

Take the beef, veal, mutton, and ham; cut them into pieces, put them into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean; then add carrots, celery, turnips, onions, leeks, garlick, parsley, and thyme, tied in a bunch; allspice, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, mace, and a little ginger, put in a cloth. Boil all together till it becomes a strong stock, and strain it. Then cut the breast of veal into tendrons, and best end of neck of mutton into steaks, and half fry them; pigs feet and ears cleaned; hare cut into joints and daubed with bacon; bouillie beef tied round with packthread; poultry trussed very neat, with the legs drawn in close; the tongues scalded and cleaned; and the rabbits cut into pieces. When the different articles are ready, blanch and wash them, then braise each in a separate stewpan, with the stock that was strained. When the different things are braised enough, pour the liquors from them into a pan, leaving a little with each to preserve from burning. When they are to be served up, skim the liquor very clean, and clear it with whites of eggs; then cut turnips and carrots into haricots, some button onions peeled, and heads of celery trimmed neat; after which blanch them, cut the bologna sausage into slices, boil the burgonza peas till three parts done, then mix all together, add some of the cleared liquor, and stew them gently till done. The remainder of the liquor to be coloured with a little saffron, and served up in a tureen with a few burgonza peas in it.

When the olio is to be served up, take a very large deep dish, make several partitions in it with slips of fried bread dipped in whites of eggs, and set it in a slow oven or before a fire; then lay the tendrons, birds, beef, mutton, fowls, &c. alternately in the partitions, and serve up with the haricot roots, &c. over.

N. B. The whole of the liquor to be seasoned to the palate with cayenne pepper and lemon juice.

[This receipt for a Spanish olio is only written to shew how expensive a dish may be made, and which I saw done. As a substitute I have introduced the following english one, which has been generally approved; and I think, with particular attention, it will exceed the former in flavour.]

Hodge Podge, or English Olio.

Take four beef tails cut into joints, bouille beef two pieces about a quarter of a pound each, and two pieces of pickle pork of the same weight. Put them into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean, and add half a savoy, two ounces of champignons, some turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, one bay leaf, whole black pepper, a few allspice, and a small quantity of mace. When the meats are nearly done, add two quarts of strong veal stock, and when tender take them out, put them into a deep dish, and preserve them hot till they are to be served up; then strain the liquor, skim it free from fat, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, a little salt, and lemon juice, and add a small quantity of colour; then have ready turnips and carrots cut into haricots, some celery heads trimmed three inches long, and some whole onions peeled. Let them be sweated down, till three parts tender, in separate stewpans, and strain the essences of them to the above liquor; clear it with whites of eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth, mix the vegetables, add the liquor to them, boil them gently for ten minutes, and serve them over the meats.

Light Forcemeat for Pies or Fowls, &c.

Cut in pieces lean veal, ham, and fat bacon; add chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, a little beaten spices, juice of lemon, pepper and salt, a few cleaned mushrooms, or mushroom powder. Put over a slow fire till three parts done; then pound in a marble mortar till very fine, and add a sufficient quantity of yolk of raw eggs and breadcrumbs to bind it.

Forcemeat Balls for Ragouts, &c.

Cut lean veal and beef suet into small pieces, and add chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram, savory, eschallots, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, a little grated nutmeg, and yolk of raw eggs. Pound all well together, and roll into balls.

N. B. The balls should be boiled or fried before they are added to any thing.

Egg for Balls.

Boil six eggs, take the yolks, pound them, and add a little flour and salt, and the yolks of two raw eggs. Mix all well together, and roll into balls. They must be boiled before added to any made dish or soup.

Omlets of Eggs for garnishing or cutting in Slips.

Take eggs, break them, and put the yolks and whites into separate pans; beat them up with a little salt, and then put them again into separate earthen vessels rubbed with sweet oil. Have ready a pot of boiling water over a fire, put them in close covered, and let the omlets steam till thoroughly done.

Ox Cheek.

Bone and wash clean the cheek; then tie it up like a rump of beef, put it in a braising pan with some good stock (or water); when it boils, skim it, add two bay leaves, a little garlick, some onions, champignons, celery, carrots, half a small cabbage, turnips, a bundle of sweet herbs, whole black pepper, a little allspice and mace. Let the cheek stew till near done, then cut off the strings, put the cheek in a clean stewpan, strain the liquor through a sieve, skim off the fat very clean, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt, add a little colour, clear it with eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth to the cheek, and stew it till tender.

Beef Tails.

Cut the tails into joints, and blanch and wash them; then braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with haricot sauce over.

Haricot Sauce.

Take clean turnips and carrots, and scoop or cut them into shapes, some celery heads cut about two inches long, button onions peeled, some dry or green morells, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces. Let them all be blanched in separate stewpans till three parts done; then drain and put them all together with some small mushrooms stewed, and a good cullis well-seasoned, and simmer the vegetables till done.

Beef Collops.

Take the fillet from the under part of a rump of beef, cut it into small thin slices, and fry them till three parts done; then add to them slices of pickle cucumbers, small mushrooms stewed, blanched oysters, some good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender.

Fillet of Beef larded.

Take a fillet or piece of a rump, force it and lard it with bacon, turn it round like a fillet of veal, roast it, glaize the top, and serve it up with the following sauce made with cullis, lemon pickle, and ketchup; add likewise some scalded celery heads and button onions; then stew till tender, and put the sauce round the beef.

Beef Pallets.

Scald and scale the pallets clean, and boil them till tender; when cool roll them up with forcemeat in the middle, and tie them with thread; braise them as white as possible and serve them up with a sauce made of ham, breast of fowl, pickle cucumbers, omlets of eggs, and good-seasoned cullis or benshamelle.

N. B. The ham, &c. are to be cut in the form of dice, and the omlets made as omlets for garnishing.

Rump of Beef a-la-daube, or braised.

Bone a rump of beef and daub it with slips of fat bacon, seasoned with sweet herbs, eschallots, beaten spices, pepper, and salt. Bind it round with packthread, and braise it till tender; then wipe it dry, glaize the top, and serve it up with the sauce round. Either Spanish onion sauce, or savoy, haricot, or ashée sauce may be used.

N. B. It may be served with the sauce either plain or daubed.

To make Spanish Onion Sauce.

Braise six Spanish onions with the beef till three parts done; then peel them, and add some good cullis, seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a little sifted lump sugar, and stew them till tender.

Savoy Sauce.

Cut some savoys in quarters, blanch them, and then tie them round and braise them with the beef till half done. Take them out of the liquor, cut off the string, and put them into a stewpan with good strong cullis, and simmer them till tender.

Ashée Sauce.

Take some pickle cucumbers chopped small, then capers, parsley, eschallots, breast of a fowl, lean of ham, carrots, and yolks and whites of eggs. Then add to them a good-seasoned cullis and a little mushroom ketchup. Simmer all together a quarter of an hour.

N. B. The ham, fowl, egg, and carrot to be boiled before they are chopped.

Brisket of Beef with Spanish Onions.

To be done in the same manner as the rump, but not to be daubed with bacon.

Brisket of Beef with Ashée or Haricot.

To be done in the same manner as the preceding.

Rump of Beef a-la mode.

Bone the rump, daub it with slips of fat bacon seasoned with sweet herbs, beaten spices, and pepper and salt. Bind it round with packthread, put it into a braising pan, cover it with some veal stock, make it boil, skim it, and add a pint of red port, some onions, turnips, celery, a few bay leaves, garlick, champignons, a few whole allspice, and a little mace. Let it stew till nearly done; then take it out of the liquor, cut off the strings, wipe it dry, and put it into a clean stewpan. Then strain the liquor, skim the fat off clean, season with cayenne, salt, a gill of vinegar, lemon pickle, and a small quantity of juice of lemon; add a little colour, clear it with whites of eggs, and strain it through a tamis cloth to the beef. Stew it gently till done, and serve it up in a deep dish.

N. B. To the liquor, when cleared with eggs and strained, may be added some passing of flour and butter, by way of thickening, if approved. The reason for clearing the liquor is, that it will make it appear bright either thickened or plain.

Baked Beef.

Bone a leg of beef, wash it clean, chop plenty of parsley, a middling quantity of thyme, eschallots, marjoram, savory, and a little basil. Then mix them together, and add a small quantity of beaten allspice, mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Rub the beef well with the ingredients, set it in an earthen pan, put to it a gill of vinegar, half a pint of red port, eight middling-sized whole onions peeled, two bay leaves, a few fresh or dried champignons. Let the meat remain till next day; then add a sufficient quantity of water to it, cover the pan close, and bake the meat till tender.

Marrow Bones.

Chop the bones at each end so as to stand steady; then wash them clean, saw them in halves, set them upright in a saucepan with water, and boil them two hours. Serve them up very hot, and with fresh toasted bread.

Mutton Rumps marinated.

Clean and cut the rumps of an equal length, and lay them in a pan and the marinate liquor for a whole night; then pass them in butter till nearly done. Lay them on a dish to cool, wash them over with yolk of egg, and breadcrumb them. Fry them gently in boiling lard till done, and of a nice colour. Drain them dry, and serve them up with a very good-seasoned cullis sauce and ketchup in it.

N. B. In the same manner may be done mutton steaks.

To make Marinate.

Take a little gravy, vinegar, salt, whole black pepper, a few bay leaves, onions sliced, a clove of garlick, and a little thyme. Boil all together and strain it.

Haricot Mutton Cutlets.

Cut a loin or best end of a neck of mutton into steaks, trim them neat, and fry them till three parts done, and of a nice colour. Put them into a stewpan, add a little liquor to preserve them from burning, and simmer till tender. Lay the steaks round in a dish, and serve them up with haricot sauce over.

N. B. The essence that the steaks were stewed in to be strained, skimmed clean from fat, and added to the sauce.

Fillet of Mutton with Cucumbers.

Take the best end of a neck of mutton, cut off the under bone, leaving the long ones on; then trim it neat, lard it, or let it remain plain; roast it gently, glaize it, and serve it up with cucumber sauce under.

Stewed Cucumbers.

Take fresh gathered cucumbers, pare them, cut them into shapes if seedy, or slices if young. Put them into a stewpan, and add a little salt, vinegar, and an onion. Simmer them over a fire till nearly done and the liquor reduced, or fry them with a bit of fresh butter, and add a good strong cullis. Let the cucumbers stew till done, and serve them up with the mutton, which may be roasted with larding (or plain).

N. B. The cucumbers may be served as an entrée of itself, and fried bread put round them.

Mutton Cutlets with Potatoes.

Cut a loin of mutton into steaks, beat them with a chopper, and trim them neat. Pass them in sweet herbs, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When nearly done, lay them on a dish till almost cool, and then egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Place the steaks round in a dish, leaving a cavity in the center, which is to be filled up with potatoes, and the sauce under the steaks.

N. B. The potatoes to be peeled, scooped, or cut into shapes. Then fry them of a light colour, and put them before the fire till wanted; and add to the sauce the steaks were passed in, a little cullis and ketchup; then strain and reduce it almost to a glaize.

Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon.

Get the best end of a loin of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; beat them, and trim them neat; then add to them a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, a little pounded mace, and lemon juice. Pass them till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, pour the liquor over the chops, and, when nearly cool, breadcrumb, and put them separately in oiled white paper; fold them up, broil them over a slow fire, and serve them up with hot poivrade sauce in a boat.

N. B. See [Poivrade Sauce] receipt.

Cutlets a la Irish Stew.

Get the best end of a neck of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; season them with pepper, salt, a little mushroom powder, and beaten mace. Put them into a stewpan, add a large onion sliced, some parsley and thyme tied in a bunch, and a pint of veal broth. Simmer the chops till three parts done, then add some whole potatoes peeled, and let them stew till done. Serve it up in a deep dish.

N. B. Let the parsley and thyme be taken out when the stew is to be served up.

Pork Cutlets with Red or White Cabbage.

Take a piece of back pork, cut it into chops, beat and trim them, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently till done and of a light brown colour. Serve them up with stewed red or white cabbage under.

To stew Cabbage.

Cut the cabbage into slips, and blanch and drain them dry. Put them into a stewpan, with a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, an onion, some vinegar, half a pint of veal broth, and a little allspice tied in a cloth. Stew the cabbage gently till done and the liquor nearly reduced, and then take the spice and onion out.

Pork Cutlets with Robert Sauce.

Get a piece of back pork, or the best end of a loin, and take off the under bone; then cut the chops neat, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently, and serve them up with the sauce underneath.

To make Robert Sauce.

Take some cullis, a bay leaf, an onion sliced, a blade of mace, a little mustard, and a gill of rhenish wine. Boil all together a quarter of an hour, strain it, and reduce it nearly to a glaize.

Pork Cutlets another way.

Trim the chops neat as above, pass them with a bit of fresh butter, chopped eschallots, pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice. When nearly done, breadcrumb and broil them till of a light brown colour. Serve them up with the following sauce placed underneath; that is to say, cullis, mushroom, ketchup, lemon pickle, and mustard, a little of each, and reduce nearly to a glaize.

Fillet of Pork roasted.

Take a piece of back pork, cut the chine bone from the under part, and lay it in a marinate all night. When it is to be roasted run a lark spit through, tie it on another spit, cover it with paper, and roast it gently; and when to be served up, if not coloured enough, glaize it lightly, and put some robert sauce underneath.

Pigs Feet and Ears.

Take prepared feet and pass them, with chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When done, breadcrumb and broil them gently. Let the ears be cut in slices, and add cullis well-seasoned; then stew them for ten minutes, and serve them up with the feet over.

To prepare Pigs Feet and Ears.

Scald and clean them; then split the feet and tie them round with packthread; put them in a pot covered with water; make it boil, skim it clean, and add a little garlick, thyme, eschallots, onions, bay leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, mace, salt, and udder of veal. Braise them till tender, and put them in an earthen pan for use.

Compotte of Pigeons.

Cut off the pinions, draw the legs in close, colour the breast in boiling hot lard, and then blanch and wash them; which done, put them in a stewpan, add a little veal broth, and simmer them gently till nearly done, and then make a ragout of blanched sweetbreads, button mushrooms, truffles, morells, artichoke bottoms, egg balls, cullis, and the liquor of the pigeons strained, and season well to the palate. Let the ingredients stew for ten minutes, then add them to the pigeons, and serve up all together in a deep dish.

Pigeons a la Craupidine.

Cut off the pinions, draw in the legs, cut the breast so as to lay back, then pass them with sweet herbs, mushrooms, eschallots chopped fine, a little fresh butter, grated nutmeg, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Let them simmer till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, and when nearly cool, egg with yolk of eggs, and strew them with crumbs of bread rubbed through a fine hair sieve. Fry them of a light colour in boiling hot lard (or broil them). Serve them up with a good cullis and sharp sauce underneath.

Pigeons glaized.

Put some good-seasoned forcemeat in the pigeons, cut off the pinions, lay back the legs, blanch them, and roast them gently with vine leaves and bards of fat bacon over them. When they are to be served up glaize the top part, and serve them with cullis sauce, or celery heads, or asparagus tops, &c. under them.

Pigeons a la Sousell.

Bone the legs and wings of four pigeons and draw them in; then fill them with a high-seasoned forcemeat, and braise them in a half pint of veal stock. When done enough, take the pigeons out, wipe them dry, glaize the top, and serve them up with stewed sorrel underneath.

N. B. The liquor they were braised in to be strained, skimmed free from fat, and reduced almost to a glaize, and added to the sorrel. (Or they may, when three parts done, be wiped dry, egged and breadcrumbed over, then fried in boiling lard, and served up with sorrel sauce underneath as above).

Hashed Calf's Head.

Take a head, without the scalp, chopped in half; wash and blanch it, peel the tongue, cut it in slices, and likewise the meat from the head. Add blanched morells and truffles, egg and forcemeat balls, stewed mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, and well-seasoned cullis. Let the meat stew gently till nearly done, and then add slices of throat sweetbreads. When it is to be served up, put round the hash the brains and rashers of bacon; and, if approved, half the head to be put on the top, which is to be prepared thus:—One half of the head when blanched to be done over with yolk of raw egg; then season with pepper and salt, strew with fine breadcrumbs, bake till very tender, and colour with a salamander if requisite. The brains to be egged and rolled in breadcrumbs, and fried in boiling lard. The rashers of bacon to be broiled.

Breast of Veal en Gallentine.

Bone the veal and lay a light forcemeat over it, and upon that some slips of lean ham, pickle cucumbers, fat bacon, and omlets of eggs white and yellow. Roll it up tight in a cloth, tie each end, and braise it till tender. When it is to be served up, take it out of the cloth, wipe it dry, and glaize the top; then put under it stewed sorrel or stewed celery heads, or ragout.

Breast of Veal Ragout.

Take off the under bone and cut the breast in half, lengthways; then cut them in middling-sized pieces, fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour, wipe them dry, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of veal stock, simmer them till nearly done and the liquor almost reduced; then add blanched morell, truffles, slices of throat sweetbread, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, a little ketchup, and some cullis; season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt, and a little lemon juice. Let all stew together till done.

Neck of Veal en Erison.

Cut off the scragg and the under chine bone, then lay a light forcemeat on the top of the veal about half the way, and wash it with whites of eggs with a paste brush, and work a sprig or any other device as fancy directs, with pickle cucumber, ham, breast of fowl, omlets of eggs white and yellow, boiled carrots, and some capers. Put the veal into a stewpan, add a little stock, and stew it gently till tender, taking care the ornament is not disturbed. When it is to be served up glaize the plain part, and put under a cullis sauce with asparagus or peas.

N. B. In the same manner may be done heart sweetbreads.

Neck of Veal larded.