Transcriber’s Note

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A [list] of these changes is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been maintained. A [list] of inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.


THE
LADY’S
OWN COOKERY BOOK,
AND NEW
DINNER-TABLE DIRECTORY;

IN WHICH WILL BE FOUND
A LARGE COLLECTION OF
ORIGINAL RECEIPTS,
INCLUDING NOT ONLY
THE RESULT OF THE AUTHORESS’S MANY YEARS OBSERVATION,
EXPERIENCE, AND RESEARCH,
BUT ALSO THE
CONTRIBUTIONS
OF AN EXTENSIVE CIRCLE OF ACQUAINTANCE:
ADAPTED TO THE USE OF
PERSONS LIVING IN THE HIGHEST STYLE,
AS WELL AS THOSE OF
MODERATE FORTUNE.


Third Edition.


LONDON:
PUBLISHED FOR HENRY COLBURN.
1844.


PREFACE.


The Receipts composing the Volume here submitted to the Public have been collected under peculiarly favourable circumstances by a Lady of distinction, whose productions in the lighter department of literature entitle her to a place among the most successful writers of the present day. Moving in the first circles of rank and fashion, her associations have qualified her to furnish directions adapted to the manners and taste of the most refined Luxury; whilst long and attentive observation, and the communications of an extensive acquaintance, have enabled her equally to accommodate them to the use of persons of less ample means and of simpler and more economical habits.

When the task of arranging the mass of materials thus accumulated devolved upon the Editor, it became his study to give to them such a form as should be most convenient for constant reference. A glance at the "Contents," which might with equal propriety be denominated an Index, will, he flatters himself, convince the reader that this object has been accomplished. It will there be seen that the Receipts, upwards of Sixteen Hundred in number, are classed under Eleven distinct Heads, each of which is arranged in alphabetical order—a method which confers on this Volume a decided advantage over every other work of the kind, inasmuch as it affords all the facilities of a Dictionary, without being liable to the unpleasant intermixture of heterogeneous matters which cannot be avoided in that form of arrangement.

The intimate connexion between the Science of Cookery and the Science of Health, the sympathies subsisting between every part of the system and the stomach, and the absolute necessity of strict attention not less to the manner of preparing the alimentary substances offered to that organ than to their quality and quantity, have been of late years so repeatedly and so forcibly urged by professional pens, that there needs no argument here to prove the utility of a safe Guide and Director in so important a department of domestic economy as that which is the subject of this Volume. In many more cases, indeed, than the uninitiated would imagine, is the healthy tone of the stomach dependent on the proper preparation of the food, the healthy tone of the body in general on that of the stomach, and the healthy tone of the mind on that of the body: consequently the first of these conditions ought to command the vigilance and solicitude of all who are desirous of securing the true enjoyment of life—the mens sana in corpore sano.

The professed Cook may perhaps be disposed to form a mean estimate of these pages, because few, or no learned, or technical, terms are employed in them; but this circumstance, so far from operating to the disparagement of the work, must prove a strong recommendation to the Public in general. The chief aim, in fact, of the noble Authoress has been to furnish such plain directions, in every branch of the culinary art, as shall be really useful to English masters and English servants, and to the humble but earnest practitioner. Let those who may desire to put this collection of receipts to the test only give them a fair trial, neither trusting to conceited servants, who, despising all other methods, obstinately adhere to their own, and then lay the blame of failure upon the directions; nor committing their execution to careless ones, who neglect the means prescribed for success, either in regard to time, quantities, or cleanliness; and the result will not fail to afford satisfactory evidence of their pleasant qualities and practical utility.


CONTENTS.

PAGE
General Directions[3]
Catalogue of Things in Season—Fish—Game and
Poultry—Fruit—Roots and Vegetables
[5]
General Rules for a Good Dinner[13]
Dinner for Fourteen or Sixteen[14]
—— —— Twelve or Fourteen[19]
—— —— Ten or Twelve[23]
—— —— Eight[26]
—— —— Six[29]
—— —— Four[32]
[SOUPS.]
Almond[33]
Asparagus[ib.]
Calf’s-head[34]
Carrot[ib.]
Clear[ib.]
—— herb[35]
Cod’s-head[ib.]
Crawfish[ib.]
——, or lobster[ib.]
Curry, or Mulligatawny[36]
Eel[ib.]
Fish[ib.]
French[ib.]
Friar’s chicken[37]
Giblet[ib.]
Gravy[38]
Hare[ib.]
Hessian[39]
Mock-turtle[ib.]
Mulligatawny[41]
Onion[42]
Ox-head[43]
Green pea[ib.]
Winter pea[44]
Pea[45]
Portable[46]
Potato[ib.]
Rabbit[ib.]
Root[ib.]
Scotch leek[47]
Soup, to brown or colour[ib.]
Soups and brown sauces, seasoning for[ib.]
Soups[ib.]
—— without meat[48]
—— for the poor[49]
—— and bouilli[ib.]
Soupe à-la-reine[ib.]
—— maigre[50]
—— Santé[51]
Spanish[ib.]
Turnip[52]
Veal[ib.]
Vegetable[ib.]
Vermicelli[53]
West India, or pepper-pot[ib.]
White[54]
[BROTHS.]
Broth for the poor[57]
—— —— —— sick[ib.]
Barley[58]
Chervil[ib.]
Hodge-podge[ib.]
Leek porridge[ib.]
Madame de Maillet’s[ib.]
Mutton[59]
Pork[ib.]
Pottage[ib.]
Scotch pottage[ib.]
Scotch[60]
Turnip[ib.]
Veal[ib.]
[FISH.]
Carp and tench[63]
——, to stew[ib.]
Cod, to stew[64]
——, ragout of[ib.]
——, head, to boil[ib.]
Crab, to dress[64]
—— or lobster, to butter[ib.]
—— —— ——, to stew[65]
Crawfish, to make red[ib.]
Eels, to broil whole[ib.]
——, to collar[65]
——, to fry[66]
——, to pot[ib.]
——, to pickle[ib.]
——, to roast[ib.]
——, to spitchcock[ib.]
——, to stew[67]
Fish, to recover when tainted[ib.]
——, in general, to dress[68]
——, to dress in sauce[ib.]
——, hashed in paste[ib.]
——, to cavietch[ib.]
Gudgeon[ib.]
Haddock, to bake[ib.]
—— pudding[69]
Herring[ib.]
Lampreys to pot[ib.]
Lobsters, to butter[70]
——, to fricassee[ib.]
——, to hash[ib.]
——, to pot[71]
——, to stew[ib.]
—— curry powder[ib.]
—— patés[ib.]
—— salad[72]
Mackarel à la maitre d’hotel[ib.]
——, to boil[ib.]
——, to broil[ib.]
——, to collar[ib.]
——, to fry[ib.]
——, to pickle[ib.]
——, to pot[ib.]
——, to souse[73]
—— pie[ib.]
Mullet, to boil[ib.]
——, to broil[ib.]
——, to fry[ib.]
Oysters, to stew[ib.]
——, ragout[74]
——, to pickle[ib.]
—— patés[ib.]
Oyster loaves[75]
—— pie[ib.]
Perch, to fricassee[76]
Pike, to dress[ib.]
——, stuffed, to boil[ib.]
——, to boil à-la-Française[ib.]
——, to broil[ib.]
——, in Court Bouillon[77]
——, fricandeau[ib.]
——, German way of dressing[ib.]
——, to pot[ib.]
——, to roast[78]
——, au souvenir[ib.]
——, à la Tatare[ib.]
Salmon, to dress[ib.]
——, en caisses[ib.]
——, à la poële[79]
Scallops[ib.]
Shrimps, to pot[ib.]
Smelts, to fry[ib.]
——, to pickle[ib.]
——, to pot[80]
Soles, to boil[ib.]
——, to boil à-la-Française[ib.]
——, to stew[ib.]
Water Souchi[ib.]
Sprats, to bake[81]
Sturgeon, to roast[ib.]
Turbot, to dress[ib.]
——, plain boiled[82]
——, to boil[ib.]
——, to boil in gravy[ib.]
——, to boil in Court Bouillon with capers[ib.]
——, to fry[83]
—— or barbel, glazed[ib.]
——, en gras[ib.]
——, or barbel, en maigre[ib.]
Turtle, to dress[84]
Whiting, to dry[ib.]
[MADE DISHES.]
Asparagus forced in French rolls[85]
Eggs, to dress[ib.]
——, buttered[ib.]
——, Scotch[86]
——, for second course[ib.]
——, to fry as round as balls[ib.]
——, fricassee of[ib.]
——, à la crême[ib.]
Ham, essence of[87]
Maccaroni in a mould of pie-crust[ib.]
——[ib.]
Omelets[89]
——, asparagus[90]
——, French[ib.]
Ragout for made dishes[ib.]
Trouhindella[ib.]
[MEATS AND VEGETABLES.]
Artichokes, to fricassee[91]
Bacon, to cure[ib.]
Barbicue[ib.]
Beef, alamode[92]
—— —— in the French manner[ib.]
——, rump, with onions[93]
——, rump, to bake[ib.]
——, rump, cardinal fashion[ib.]
——, sausage fashion[94]
——, ribs and sirloin[ib.]
——, ribs, en papillotes[ib.]
——, brisket, stewed German fashion[95]
——, to bake[ib.]
——, bouilli[ib.]
——, relishing[96]
——, to stew[ib.]
——, cold, to dress[97]
——, cold boiled, to dress[ib.]
——, cold, to pot[ib.]
—— steaks, to broil[ib.]
—— —— and oysters[98]
—— (rump steaks) broiled, with onion gravy[ib.]
—— steaks, to stew[98]
—— olives[99]
——, pickle for[ib.]
——, to salt[ib.]
——, to dry[100]
——, hung[ib.]
——, for scraping[101]
——, Italian[ib.]
——, red[ib.]
——, collar of[102]
Bisquet, to make[ib.]
Boar’s-head, to dress whole[103]
Brawn, to keep[ib.]
Hog’s-head, like brawn[ib.]
Mock-brawn[ib.]
Cabbage, farced[104]
Calf’s-head[ib.]
——, like turtle[ib.]
——, to hash[105]
——, fricassee[106]
——, to pickle[ib.]
—— liver[107]
Cauliflowers with white sauce[ib.]
Celery, to stew[ib.]
—— à-la-crême[ib.]
Collops, Scotch[ib.]
——, brown Scotch[108]
——, white[ib.]
——, to mince[109]
—— of cold beef[ib.]
Cucumbers, to stew[ib.]
Curry-powder[ib.]
——, Indian[110]
Farcie[112]
Forcemeat[ib.]
Fricandeau[113]
Ham, to cure[ib.]
——, Westphalia, to cure[117]
——, English, to make like Westphalia[119]
——, green[120]
——, to prepare for dressing without soaking[ib.]
——, to dress[ib.]
——, to roast[121]
——, entrée of[ib.]
——, toasts[ib.]
—— and chicken, to pot[ib.]
Herb sandwiches[122]
Hog’s puddings, black[ib.]
—— ——, white[ib.]
Kabob, an Indian ragout[123]
Lamb, leg, to boil[124]
—— ——, with forcemeat[ib.]
——, shoulder of, grilled[ib.]
——, to ragout[ib.]
——, to fricassee[ib.]
Meat, miscellaneous directions respecting[125]
——, general rules for roasting and boiling[ib.]
——, half roasted or under done[ib.]
Mustard to make[126]
Mutton, chine, to roast[ib.]
—— chops, to stew[ib.]
—— cutlets[ib.]
—— ——, with onion sauce[ib.]
—— hams, to make[127]
——, haricot[127]
——, leg[ib.]
——, leg, in the French fashion[ib.]
——, or beef, leg, to hash[128]
——, loin, to stew[ib.]
——, neck, to roast[ib.]
——, neck, to boil[ib.]
——, neck, to fry[129]
——, saddle, and kidneys[ib.]
——, shoulder, to roast in blood[ib.]
——, shoulder or leg, with oysters[ib.]
——, roasted, with stewed cucumbers[ib.]
——, to eat like venison[130]
——, in epigram[ib.]
Mushrooms to stew brown[ib.]
Newmarket John[ib.]
Ox-cheek to stew[ib.]
Ox-tail ragout[131]
Peas to stew[ib.]
——, green, to keep till Christmas[132]
Pickle, red, for any meat[ib.]
Pie, beef-steak[ib.]
——, calf’s-head[ib.]
——, mutton or grass-lamb[ib.]
——, veal[133]
——, veal and ham[ib.]
——, veal olive[ib.]
——, beef olive[ib.]
Pig, to barbicue[ib.]
——, to collar[ib.]
——, to collar in colours[134]
——, to pickle or souse[ib.]
——, to roast[ib.]
——, to dress lamb-fashion[ib.]
Pigs’-feet and ears, fricassee of[135]
—— —— —— ——, ragout of[ib.]
Pig’s-head, to roll[ib.]
Pilaw, an Indian dish[ib.]
Pork, to collar[136]
——, to pickle[ib.]
——, chine, to stuff or roast[ib.]
—— cutlets[137]
——, gammon, to roast[ib.]
——, leg, to broil[ib.]
——, spring, to roast[ib.]
Potatoes, to boil[ib.]
——, to bake[138]
Potato balls[ib.]
Potatoes, croquets of[ib.]
——, to fry[ib.]
——, to mash[139]
——, French way of cooking[ib.]
——, à-la-maitre d’hotel[ib.]
Rice to boil[ib.]
Rissoles[ib.]
Rice[140]
Robinson, to make a[141]
Salad, to dress[ib.]
Sausages, Bologna[ib.]
——, English[ib.]
——, Oxford[142]
——, for Scotch collops[ib.]
——, veal[ib.]
——, without skins[143]
Spinach, the best mode of dressing[ib.]
——, to stew[ib.]
Sweetbreads, ragout of[144]
Savoury toasts, to relish wine[144]
Tomato, to eat with roast meat[145]
Tongues, to cure[ib.]
——, to smoke[146]
——, to bake[ib.]
——, to boil[ib.]
——, to pot[ib.]
—— and udder to roast[147]
——, sheep’s, or any other, with oysters[ib.]
Tripe, to dress[ib.]
——, to fricassee[ib.]
Truffles and morels, to stew[ib.]
Veal, to boil[148]
——, to collar[ib.]
——, to roast[ib.]
——, roasted, ragout of[ib.]
——, to stew[149]
——, with rice, to stew[ib.]
——, served in paper[ib.]
——, bombarded[ib.]
—— balls[150]
——, breast[ib.]
——, breast, with cabbage and bacon[ib.]
——, breast, en fricandeau[ib.]
——, breast, glazed brown[ib.]
——, breast, stewed with peas[151]
——, breast, ragout[ib.]
—— collops, with oysters[151]
—— collops, with white sauce[152]
—— cutlets, to dress[ib.]
—— cutlets, larded[ib.]
——, fillet, to farce or roast[ib.]
——, fillet, to boil[153]
——, half a fillet, to stew[ib.]
——, knuckle, white[ib.]
——, knuckle, ragout[ib.]
——, leg, and bacon, to boil[154]
——, loin, to roast[ib.]
——, loin, to roast with herbs[ib.]
——, loin, fricassee of[ib.]
——, loin, bechamel[155]
——, neck, stewed with celery[ib.]
—— olives[ib.]
—— rumps[156]
——, shoulder, to stew[ib.]
—— steaks[ib.]
—— sweetbreads, to fry[ib.]
—— sweetbreads, to roast[157]
Vegetables, to stew[ib.]
Venison, haunch, to roast[ib.]
——, to boil[ib.]
——, haunch, to broil[158]
——, to recover when tainted[ib.]
——, red deer, to pot[ib.]
——, excellent substitute for[ib.]
Water-cresses, to stew[159]
[POULTRY.]
Chicken, to make white[161]
——, to fricassee[ib.]
——, white fricassee of[162]
——, or fowl, cream of[163]
——, to fry[ib.]
——, to heat[ib.]
——, dressed with peas[ib.]
—— and ham, ragout of[ib.]
——, or ham and veal patés[164]
Duck, to boil[ib.]
——, to boil à-la-Française[ib.]
——, à-la-braise[ib.]
——, to hash[165]
——, to stew with cucumbers[ib.]
——, to stew with peas[ib.]
Fowls, to fatten in a fortnight[ib.]
——, to make tender[ib.]
——, to roast with anchovies[ib.]
——, with rice, called pilaw[ib.]
——, to hash[166]
——, to stew[ib.]
Goose, to stuff[ib.]
——, liver of, to dress[ib.]
Pigeons, to boil[ib.]
——, to broil[167]
Pigeons, to jug[167]
——, to pot[ib.]
——, to stew[ib.]
——, biscuit of[168]
——, en compote[ib.]
——, à la crapaudine[169]
——, in disguise[ib.]
——, in fricandeau[ib.]
——, aux poires[170]
——, pompeton of[ib.]
——, au soleil[ib.]
——, à la Tatare, with cold sauce[171]
——, surtout of[ib.]
Poultry, tainted, to preserve[ib.]
Pullets, with oysters[ib.]
——, to bone and farce[172]
Rabbits, to boil[ib.]
——, to boil with onions[ib.]
——, brown fricassee of[ib.]
——, white fricassee of[ib.]
Turkey, to boil[173]
—— with oysters[ib.]
—— à la daube[ib.]
——, roasted, delicate gravy for[174]
—— or veal stuffing[ib.]
[GAME.]
Hare, to dress[175]
——, to roast[ib.]
——, to hash[176]
——, to jug[ib.]
——, to mince[177]
——, to stew[ib.]
—— stuffing[ib.]
Partridge, to boil[177]
——, to roast[ib.]
——, à la paysanne[ib.]
——, à la Polonaise[ib.]
——, à la russe[178]
——, rolled[ib.]
——, stewed[ib.]
——, salme of[ib.]
——, to pot[179]
—— pie[ib.]
Pheasant, to boil[ib.]
——, with white sauce[180]
——, à la braise[ib.]
——, à l’Italienne[ib.]
Pheasant, puré of[181]
Widgeon, to dress[ib.]
Wild-duck, to roast[ib.]
Woodcocks and snipes, to roast[ib.]
——, à la Française[ib.]
——, to pot[ib.]
[SAUCES.]
Anchovy, essence of[183]
—— pickle[ib.]
—— sauce[ib.]
——, to recover[ib.]
Bacchanalian sauce[184]
Bechamel[ib.]
Beef bouilli, sauce for[ib.]
—— à la russe, sauce for[185]
Bread sauce[ib.]
—— —— for pig[ib.]
Browning for made dishes[ib.]
Butter, to burn[186]
——, to clarify[ib.]
——, plain melted[ib.]
——, to thicken for peas[ib.]
Caper sauce[187]
Carp sauce[ib.]
——, light brown sauce for[ib.]
—— and tench, sauce for[ib.]
——, white sauce for[ib.]
——, or tench, Dutch sauce for[188]
—— sauce for fish[ib.]
Cavechi, an Indian pickle[ib.]
Celery sauce, white[189]
—— ——, brown[ib.]
Chickens, boiled, sauce for[ib.]
—— or game, sauce for[ib.]
——, white sauce for[ib.]
Consommé[ib.]
Cream sauce for white dishes[190]
Cullis, to thicken sauces[ib.]
——, brown[ib.]
——, à la reine[ib.]
——, turkey[191]
—— of veal, or other meat[ib.]
Dandy sauce, for all sorts of poultry and game[ib.]
Devonshire sauce[192]
Ducks, sauce for[ib.]
Dutch sauce[ib.]
—— sauce for fish[ib.]
—— sauce for meat or fish[ib.]
—— sauce for trout[193]
Egg sauce[ib.]
Exquisite, the[ib.]
Fish sauce[ib.]
—— sauce, excellent white[196]
——, white sauce for, with capers and anchovies[ib.]
——, stock[ib.]
Forcemeat balls for sauces[ib.]
Fowls, white sauce for[197]
—— of all kinds, or roasted mutton, sauce for[ib.]
General sauce[198]
Genoese sauce, for stewed fish[ib.]
German sauce[198]
Gravy, beef[ib.]
—— beef, to keep[199]
——, brown[ib.]
Green sauce, for green geese or ducklings[ib.]
Ham sauce[200]
Hare or venison sauce[ib.]
Harvey’s sauce[ib.]
Hashes or fish, sauce for[ib.]
——, white, or chickens, sauce for[ib.]
Horseradish sauce[ib.]
Italian sauce[201]
Ketchup[ib.]
Lemon sauce[ib.]
Liver sauce for boiled fowls[ib.]
Lobster sauce[ib.]
Marchioness’s sauce[202]
Meat jelly for sauces[ib.]
Mixed sauce[ib.]
Mushroom ketchup[203]
—— sauce[204]
Mutton, roasted, sauce for[ib.]
Onion sauce[ib.]
—— ——, brown[ib.]
Oyster sauce[ib.]
Pepper-pot[ib.]
Pike sauce[205]
Piquante, sauce[ib.]
Poivrade sauce[206]
Poor man’s sauce[ib.]
Quin’s fish sauce[ib.]
Ragout sauce[ib.]
Ravigotte, sauce[ib.]
—— ——, à la bourgeoise[ib.]
Relishing sauce[207]
Remoulade, sauce[ib.]
Rice sauce[208]
Richmond sauce[ib.]
Roast meat, sauce for[ib.]
Robert, sauce[ib.]
Salad sauce[ib.]
Shalot sauce[209]
Spanish sauce[ib.]
Steaks, sauce for[ib.]
Sultana sauce[ib.]
Tomato ketchup[ib.]
—— sauce[210]
Turkey, savoury jelly for[ib.]
—— or chicken sauce[211]
—— or fowl, boiled, sauce for[ib.]
Venison sauce[ib.]
—— ——, sweet[ib.]
Walnut ketchup[ib.]
White sauce[213]
—— wine sweet sauce[ib.]
[CONFECTIONARY.]
Almacks[215]
Almond butter[ib.]
—— cheesecakes[ib.]
—— cream[216]
—— paste[ib.]
—— puffs[217]
Angelica, to candy[ib.]
Apples, to do[ib.]
——, (pippins) to candy[ib.]
——, (pippins) to dry[ib.]
——, to preserve green[218]
——, (golden pippins) to preserve[ib.]
——, (crabs) to preserve[ib.]
——, (Siberian crabs) to preserve, transparent[ib.]
——, (golden pippins) to stew[ib.]
——, cheese[219]
——, conserve of[ib.]
——, demandon[ib.]
——, fraise[ib.]
——, fritters[220]
——, jelly[ib.]
——, (crab) jam or jelly[221]
——, (pippin or codling) jelly[ib.]
—— and pears, to dry[ib.]
Apricots in brandy[222]
—— chips[ib.]
—— burnt cream[ib.]
——, to dry[ib.]
——, jam[223]
—— and plum jam[ib.]
—— paste[ib.]
——, to preserve[ib.]
——, to preserve whole[224]
——, to preserve in jelly[ib.]
Bances, French[ib.]
Barberries, to preserve[225]
Biscuits[ib.]
——, Dutch[ib.]
——, ginger[226]
——, lemon[ib.]
——, ratafia[ib.]
——, table[ib.]
Blancmange[ib.]
——, Dutch[227]
Bread[ib.]
——, diet[ib.]
——, potato[228]
——, rice[ib.]
——, rye[ib.]
——, Scotch, short[ib.]
Loaves, buttered[ib.]
Loaf, egg[229]
Buns[ib.]
——, Bath[230]
——, plain[ib.]
Butter, to make without churning[ib.]
——, black[ib.]
——, Spanish[231]
Cake[ib.]
——, excellent[ib.]
——, great[ib.]
——, light[ib.]
——, nice[ib.]
——, plain[232]
——, very rich[232]
——, without butter[ib.]
——, almond[ib.]
——, almond, clear[233]
——, apple[234]
——, apricot clear[ib.]
——, biscuit[ib.]
——, bread[ib.]
——, breakfast[235]
——, breakfast, excellent[ib.]
——, breakfast, Bath[ib.]
——, butter[ib.]
——, caraway[236]
——, caraway, small[237]
——, cocoa-nut[ib.]
——, currant, clear[ib.]
——, egg[ib.]
——, enamelled[ib.]
——, Epsom[ib.]
——, ginger[238]
——, ginger, or hunting[ib.]
——, gooseberry, clear[ib.]
——, Jersey[ib.]
——, Jersey merveilles[ib.]
——, London wigs[239]
——, onion[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
——, orange clove[ib.]
——, orange-flower[240]
——, plum[ib.]
——, plum, clear[ib.]
——, Portugal[ib.]
——, potato[ib.]
——, pound[ib.]
——, pound davy[242]
——, quince, clear[ib.]
——, ratafia[ib.]
——, rice[ib.]
——, rock[243]
——, royal[ib.]
——, Savoy or sponge[ib.]
——, seed[ib.]
——, Shrewsbury[244]
——, sponge[245]
——, sugar[ib.]
——, sugar, little[ib.]
——, sweet[ib.]
——, tea[ib.]
——, tea, dry[246]
——, thousand[ib.]
——, Tunbridge[ib.]
——, veal[ib.]
——, Yorkshire[247]
Calves’-foot jelly[ib.]
Cheese, to make[ib.]
——, the best in the world[248]
——, to stew[249]
——, cream[ib.]
——, cream, Princess Amelia’s[ib.]
——, cream, Irish[ib.]
——, rush[250]
——, winter cream[ib.]
——, cream, to make without cream[ib.]
——, damson[ib.]
——, French[251]
——, Italian[ib.]
——, lemon[ib.]
Cheesecakes[ib.]
——, almond[253]
——, cocoa-nut[ib.]
——, cream[ib.]
——, curd[254]
——, lemon[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
——, Scotch[ib.]
Cherries, to preserve[255]
——, to preserve (Morella)[ib.]
——, brandy[256]
——, to dry[ib.]
——, dried, liquor for[ib.]
Cherry jam[257]
Cocoa jam[ib.]
Cocoa-nut candy[ib.]
Coffee, to roast[ib.]
——, to make the foreign way[ib.]
Cream, to make rise in cold weather[258]
——, to fry[ib.]
——, and curd, artificial[ib.]
——, of rice[259]
——, almond[ib.]
——, barley[ib.]
——, French barley[ib.]
——, chocolate[260]
——, citron[ib.]
——, clotted[ib.]
——, coffee[ib.]
——, eringo[ib.]
——, fruit[261]
——, preserved fruit[ib.]
——, Italian[ib.]
——, lemon[ib.]
——, lemon, without cream[262]
——, lemon, frothed[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
——, orange, frothed[263]
——, Imperial, orange[ib.]
——, pistachio[ib.]
——, raspberry[ib.]
——, ratafia[ib.]
——, rice[ib.]
——, runnet whey[264]
——, snow[ib.]
——, strawberry[ib.]
——, sweetmeat[ib.]
——, whipt[ib.]
Cucumbers, to preserve green[ib.]
Curd, cream[265]
——, lemon[ib.]
——, Paris[ib.]
Currants, to bottle[ib.]
——, or barberries, to dry[266]
——, to ice[ib.]
——, white, to preserve[ib.]
Currant jam[267]
——, jelly, black or red[ib.]
——, juice[ib.]
——, paste[268]
Custard[ib.]
——, almond[269]
Damsons, to bottle[ib.]
——, to dry[ib.]
——, to preserve without sugar[269]
Dripping, to clarify for crust[ib.]
Dumplings[ib.]
——, currant[270]
——, drop[ib.]
——, kitchen hard[ib.]
——, yest[ib.]
Eggs[271]
——, whites of[ib.]
Figs, to dry[ib.]
Flowers, small, to candy[ib.]
——, in sprigs, to candy[272]
Flummery, Dutch[ib.]
——, hartshorn[ib.]
Fondues[273]
Fritters, Yorkshire[ib.]
Fruit, to preserve[ib.]
——, to preserve green[ib.]
——, of all sorts, to scald[ib.]
Gingerbread[274]
——, thick[275]
——, cakes or nuts[ib.]
Gooseberries, to bottle[ib.]
——, in jelly[ib.]
——, to preserve[276]
——, paste of[277]
Grapes, to dry[ib.]
——, to preserve[ib.]
Greengages, to preserve[ib.]
Hartshorn jelly[278]
Hedgehog[ib.]
Ice and cream[ib.]
——, lemon[279]
Iceing for cakes[ib.]
Jaunemange[ib.]
Jelly, coloured[ib.]
——, Gloucester[280]
——, lemon[ib.]
——, nourishing[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
——, restorative[281]
——, strawberry[ib.]
——, wine[ib.]
Lemons or Seville oranges, to preserve[282]
Lemon caudle[ib.]
—— or chocolate drops[ib.]
—— puffs[283]
—— tart[ib.]
——, solid[ib.]
——, syrup of[ib.]
Macaroons[ib.]
Marmalade, citron[ib.]
——, cherry[284]
——, orange[ib.]
——, Scotch, orange[285]
——, red quince[ib.]
——, white quince[286]
Marchpane[ib.]
Marrow pasties[287]
Melons or cucumbers, to preserve[ib.]
Melon compote[ib.]
Mince-meat[ib.]
—— without meat[288]
——, lemon[289]
Mirangles[ib.]
Moss[ib.]
Muffins[290]
Oranges, to preserve[ib.]
——, Seville, to preserve[291]
Orange butter[ib.]
——, candied[ib.]
—— cream[ib.]
—— jelly[292]
—— paste[ib.]
—— puffs[ib.]
—— sponge[293]
—— and lemon syrup[ib.]
Oranges for a tart[ib.]
Orange tart[ib.]
Panada[294]
Pancakes[ib.]
——, French[295]
——, Grillon’s[ib.]
——, quire of paper[ib.]
——, rice[ib.]
Paste[ib.]
——, for baking or frying[ib.]
——, for pies[296]
——, for raised pies[ib.]
——, for tarts[ib.]
——, for tarts in pans[ib.]
——, for small tartlets[ib.]
——, potato[ib.]
——, rice[297]
——, royal[ib.]
——, short or puff[ib.]
——, short[ib.]
——, short, with suet[298]
——, sugar[ib.]
Peaches, to preserve in brandy[ib.]
Pears, to pot[299]
——, to stew[300]
Pie, chicken[ib.]
——, giblet[ib.]
——, common goose[ib.]
——, rich goose[ib.]
——, ham and chicken[ib.]
——, hare[301]
——, lumber[ib.]
——, olive[ib.]
——, partridge[ib.]
——, rich pigeon[302]
——, high veal[ib.]
——, vegetable[ib.]
——, Yorkshire Christmas[ib.]
Pineapple, to preserve in slices[ib.]
—— chips[303]
Plums, to dry green[ib.]
——, green, jam of[ib.]
——, great white, to preserve[304]
Posset[ib.]
——, sack[ib.]
——, sack, without milk[ib.]
——, sack, or jelly[305]
Puffs[ib.]
——, cheese[ib.]
——, chocolate[ib.]
——, German[ib.]
——, Spanish[306]
Pudding[ib.]
——, good[ib.]
——, very good[ib.]
——, excellent[307]
——, plain[ib.]
——, scalded[307]
——, sweet[ib.]
——, all three[ib.]
——, almond[ib.]
——, amber[308]
——, Princess Amelia’s[ib.]
——, apple-mignon[ib.]
——, apple[ib.]
——, arrow-root[309]
——, pearl barley[ib.]
——, batter[ib.]
——, plain batter[ib.]
——, Norfolk batter[310]
——, green bean[ib.]
——, beef-steak[ib.]
——, bread[ib.]
——, bread, rich[311]
——, bread and butter[ib.]
——, raisin-bread[ib.]
——, buttermilk[ib.]
——, carrot[ib.]
——, Charlotte[312]
——, cheese[ib.]
——, citron[ib.]
——, cocoa-nut[ib.]
——, college[313]
——, new college[ib.]
——, cottage[314]
——, currant[ib.]
——, custard[ib.]
——, fish[315]
——, French[ib.]
——, gooseberry[ib.]
——, hunters’[316]
——, jug[ib.]
——, lemon[ib.]
——, small lemon[ib.]
——, maccaroni[ib.]
——, marrow[ib.]
——, Nottingham[317]
——, oatmeal[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
——, paradise[318]
——, pith[319]
——, plum[ib.]
——, plum, rich[320]
——, potato[ib.]
——, Pottinger’s[321]
——, prune[ib.]
——, quaking[ib.]
——, ratafia[322]
——, rice[ib.]
——, plain rice[ib.]
——, ground rice[323]
——, rice, hunting[ib.]
——, kitchen rice[ib.]
——, rice plum[ib.]
——, small rice[ib.]
——, Swedish rice[ib.]
——, rice white pot[324]
——, sago[ib.]
——, spoonful[ib.]
——, plain suet[ib.]
——, tansy[ib.]
——, tapioca[325]
——, neat’s tongue[ib.]
Quatre fruits[ib.]
Quinces, to preserve[ib.]
Ramaquins[326]
Raspberries, to preserve[327]
——, to preserve in currant jelly[ib.]
——, jam[328]
——, paste[ib.]
Rice crust, apple tart with[329]
Rolls[ib.]
——, excellent[ib.]
——, little[330]
——, breakfast[ib.]
——, Brentford[ib.]
——, Dutch[ib.]
——, French[331]
——, Milton[332]
Runnet[ib.]
Rusks[ib.]
——, and tops and bottoms[ib.]
Sally Lunn[333]
Slipcote[ib.]
Soufflé[ib.]
—— of apples and rice[ib.]
Strawberries, to preserve for eating with cream[334]
Strawberries, to preserve in currant jelly[334]
——, to preserve in gooseberry jelly[335]
——, jam[ib.]
Sugar, to clarify[ib.]
Syllabub[336]
——, everlasting[ib.]
——, solid[ib.]
——, whipt[ib.]
Taffy[337]
Trifle[ib.]
Trotter jelly[ib.]
Veal and ham patés[ib.]
Venison pasty[338]
Vol-au-vent[ib.]
Wafers[ib.]
——, sugar[ib.]
Walnuts, to preserve[ib.]
——, white[ib.]
Whey, mustard[ib.]
Yest[ib.]
——, excellent[340]
——, potato[ib.]
[PICKLES.]
General Directions[341]
Almonds, green[ib.]
Artichokes[ib.]
——, to boil in winter[ib.]
Asparagus[342]
Barberriesi[b.]
Beet-root[ib.]
—— and turnips[343]
Cabbage[ib.]
——, red[ib.]
Capers[344]
Capsicum[ib.]
Cauliflower[ib.]
Clove gilliflower, or any other flower, for salads[ib.]
Codlings[ib.]
Cucumbers[345]
——, large, mango of[346]
——, sliced[ib.]
——, stuffed[ib.]
——, to preserve[347]
French beans[348]
Herrings, to marinate[349]
——, red, trout fashion[ib.]
India pickle, called Picolili[ib.]
Lemons[350]
——, or oranges[352]
Mango cossundria[353]
Melons[ib.]
——, to imitate mangoes[ib.]
——, or cucumbers, as mangoes[ib.]
Mushrooms[354]
——, brown[356]
——, to dry[ib.]
——, liquor and powder[ib.]
Mustard pickle[ib.]
Nasturtiums[357]
Onions[ib.]
——, Spanish, mango of[358]
Orange and lemon-peel[ib.]
Oysters[ib.]
Peaches, mango of[359]
Purslain, samphire, broom-buds, &c.[360]
Quinces[ib.]
Radish pods[ib.]
Salmon[361]
——, to marinate[362]
Samphire[ib.]
Smelts[ib.]
Suckers[ib.]
Vinegar, for pickling[ib.]
——, camp[363]
——, Chili[ib.]
——, elder-flower[ib.]
——, garlic[364]
——, gooseberry[ib.]
——, plague or four thieves’[365]
——, raisin[ib.]
——, raspberry[ib.]
Walnuts, black[366]
——, green[367]
——, ketchup of[ib.]
[WINES, CORDIALS, LIQUEURS, &c.]
Ale, to drink in a week[369]
——, very rare[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
Aqua mirabilis[370]
Bitters[ib.]
Cherry brandy[ib.]
Cherry water, cordial[ib.]
Cordial, very fine[371]
Cup[ib.]
Elder-flower water[ib.]
Elder-berry syrup[ib.]
Ginger beer[372]
Imperial[373]
Lemonade[ib.]
——, clarified[374]
——, milk[ib.]
——, transparent[ib.]
Lemon water[ib.]
Mead[ib.]
Mithridate brandy[375]
Nonpareil[ib.]
Noyau[376]
Orange juice[ib.]
Oranges, or lemons, spirit of[ib.]
Orange-water, cordial[ib.]
Orgeat[ib.]
Punch, excellent[377]
——, milk[ib.]
——, Norfolk[ib.]
——, Roman[378]
Raspberry liqueur[ib.]
—— vinegar[ib.]
Ratafia brandy[ib.]
Shrub[379]
——, currant[ib.]
Spruce beer[ib.]
Wine, bittany[379]
——, champagne, sham[380]
——, cherry[ib.]
——, cowslip[ib.]
——, currant[381]
——, currant, or elder[382]
——, currant, black[ib.]
——, currant, red[ib.]
——, currant, red or white[ib.]
——, damson[383]
——, elder[ib.]
——, elder flower[385]
——, frontiniac, sham[ib.]
——, mixed fruit[ib.]
——, ginger[ib.]
——, gooseberry[386]
——, grape[387]
——, lemon[388]
——, madeira, sham[ib.]
——, orange[ib.]
——, port, sham[389]
——, raisin[ib.]

THE
LADY’S OWN COOKERY BOOK.


GENERAL DIRECTIONS.

The following directions may appear trite and common, but it is of the greatest consequence that they be strictly observed:

Attend to minute cleanliness. Never wipe a dish, bowl, or pan, with a half dirty napkin, or give the vessel a mere rinse in water and think that it is then fit for use. See that it be dried and pure from all smell before you put in any ingredient.

Never use the hands when it is possible to avoid it; and, when you do, have a clean basin of water to dip them in, and wipe them thoroughly several times while at work, as in mixing dough, &c.

Use silver or wooden spoons; the latter are best for all confectionery and puddings. Take care that the various spoons, skewers, and knives, be not used promiscuously for cookery and confectionery, or even for different dishes of the same sort.

If an onion is cut with any knife, or lies near any article of kitchen use, that article is not fit for service till it has been duly scoured and laid in the open air. The same remark applies to very many strong kitchen herbs. This point is scarcely ever enough attended to.

In measuring quantities, be extremely exact, having always some particular vessel set apart for each ingredient (best of earthenware, because such cannot retain any smell) wherewith to ascertain your quantities. Do nothing by guess, how practised soever you may deem yourself in the art: nor say "Oh! I want none of your measures for such a thing as a little seasoning," taking a pinch here and there. Be assured you will never in that way make a dish, or a sauce, twice in the same manner; it may be good by chance, but it will always be a chance, and the chances are very much against it; at all events it will not be precisely the same thing, and precision is the very essence of good cookery.

The French say Il faut que rien ne domine—No one ingredient must predominate. This is a good rule to please general taste and great judges; but, to secure the favour of a particular palate it is not infallible: as, in a good herb soup, for instance, it may better delight the master or mistress that some one herb or savoury meat should predominate. Consult, therefore, the peculiarities of the tastes of your employer; for, though a dish may be a good dish of its kind, if it is not suited to the taste of the eater of what avail is it?

Let not the vanity of the cook induce you to forget the duty of a servant, which is, in the first place, to please his master: be particular, therefore, in enquiring what things please your employer. Many capital cooks will be found for great feasts and festivals, but very few for every-day service, because this is not "eye-service," but the service of principle and duty. Few, indeed, there are who will take equal pains to make one delicate dish, one small exquisite dinner, for the three hundred and sixty-five days in the year; yet this is by far the most valuable attainment of the two.

The great secret of all cookery consists in making fine meat jellies; this is done at less expence than may be imagined by a careful, honest cook. For this purpose let all parings of meats of every kind, all bones, however dry they may appear, be carefully collected, and put over a very slow fire in a small quantity of water, always adding a little more as the water boils down. Skim this juice when cool: and, having melted it a second time, pass it through a sieve till thoroughly pure: put no salt or pepper; use this fine jelly for any sauce, adding herbs, or whatever savoury condiments you think proper, at the time it is used.

Be careful all summer long to dry vegetables and herbs. Almost every herb and vegetable may be dried and preserved for winter use; for on these must chiefly depend all the varied flavours of your dishes. Mushrooms and artichokes strung on a string, with a bit of wood knotted in between each to prevent their touching, and hung in a dry place, will be excellent; and every species of culinary herb may be preserved either in bottles or paper bags.


A
CATALOGUE OF THINGS IN SEASON.


JANUARY.

Fish.

Cod, skate, thornback, salmon, soles, eels, perch, carp, tench, flounders, prawns, lobsters, crabs, shrimps, cockles, muscles, oysters, smelts, whiting.

Game and Poultry.

Hares, pheasants, partridges, wild ducks, widgeon, teal, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, squab-pigeons, tame rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, larks, blackbirds, and wood-pigeons.

Fruit.

Portugal grapes, the Kentish russet, golden French kirton, Dutch pippins, nonpareils, pearmains, russetting apples, and all sorts of winter pears.

Roots and Vegetables.

Many sorts of cabbages, savoys, sprouts, and greens, parsnips, carrots, turnips, potatoes, celery, endive, cabbage-lettuces, leeks, onions, horseradish, small salad under glasses, sweet herbs, and parsley, green and white brocoli, beet-root, beet-leaves and tops, forced asparagus, cucumbers in hotbeds, French beans and peas in the hothouse.

FEBRUARY.

Fish.

Cod, skate, thornback, salmon, sturgeon, soles, flounders, whitings, smelts, crabs, lobsters, prawns, shrimps, oysters, eels, crawfish, carp, tench, and perch.

Game and Poultry.

Hares and partridges till the 14th. Turkeys, capons, pullets with eggs, fowls, chickens, tame rabbits, woodcocks, snipes, all sorts of wild-fowl, which begin to decline in this month.

Fruit.

Nearly the same as last month.

Roots and Vegetables.

The same as last month.

MARCH.

Fish.

Cod and codlings, turbot, salmon, skate, thornback, smelts, soles, crabs, lobsters, prawns, flounders, plaice, oysters, perch, carp, tench, eels, gudgeons, mullet, and sometimes mackerel, comes in.

Poultry.

Turkeys, pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, tame rabbits, pigeons, guinea-fowl.

Fruit.

Pineapples, the golden ducket, Dorset pippins, rennetings, Loan’s pearmain, nonpareils, John apples, the later bonchretien and double-blossom pears.

Roots and Vegetables.

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, beet, leeks, onions, green and white brocoli, brocoli sprouts, brown and green cole, cabbage sprouts, greens, spinach, small salad, parsley, sorrel, corn salad, green fennel, sweet herbs of all sorts, cabbage lettuces, forced mushrooms, asparagus forced, cucumbers in hotbeds, French beans and peas in hothouses, and young radishes and onions.

APRIL.

Fish.

Salmon, turbot, mackerel, skate, thornback, red and grey mullet, gurnets, pipers, soles, lobsters, oysters, prawns, crawfish, smelts, carp, perch, pike, gudgeons, eels, and plaice.

Game and Poultry.

Pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, tame rabbits, and sometimes young leverets, guinea-fowl.

Fruit.

A few apples and pears, pineapples, hothouse grapes, strawberries, cherries, apricots for tarts, and green gooseberries.

Roots and Vegetables.

Carrots, potatoes, horseradish, onions, leeks, celery, brocoli sprouts, cabbage plants, cabbage lettuce, asparagus, spinach, parsley, thyme, all sorts of small salads, young radishes and onions, cucumbers in hotbeds, French beans and peas in the hothouse, green fennel, sorrel, chervil, and, if the weather is fine, all sorts of sweet herbs begin to grow.

MAY.

Fish.

Turbot, salmon, soles, smelts, trout, whiting, mackerel, herrings, eels, plaice, flounders, crabs, lobsters, prawns, shrimps, crawfish.

Game and Poultry.

Pullets, fowls, chickens, guinea-fowl, green geese, ducklings, pigeons, tame rabbits, leverets, and sometimes turkey poults.

Fruit.

Strawberries, green apricots, cherries, gooseberries, and currants, for tarts, hothouse pineapples, grapes, apricots, peaches, and fine cherries.

Roots and Vegetables.

Spring carrots, horseradish, beet-root, early cauliflower, spring cabbage, sprouts, spinach, coss, cabbage, and Silesia lettuces, all sorts of small salads, asparagus, hotspur beans, peas, fennel, mint, balm, parsley, all sorts of sweet herbs, cucumbers and French beans forced, radishes, and young onions, mushrooms in the cucumber beds.

JUNE.

Fish.

Turbot, trout, mackerel, mullet, salmon, salmon trout, soles, smelts, eels, lobsters, crabs, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

Game and Poultry.

Spring fowls, and chickens, geese, ducks, turkey poults, young wild and tame rabbits, pigeons, leverets, and wheatears.

Fruit.

Pineapples, currants, gooseberries, scarlet strawberries, hautboys, several sorts of cherries, apricots, and green codlings.

Roots and Vegetables.

Young carrots, early potatoes, young turnips, peas, garden beans, cauliflowers, summer cabbages, spinach, coss, cabbage, and Silesia lettuces, French beans, cucumbers, asparagus, mushrooms, purslain, radishes, turnip-radishes, horseradish, and onions.

JULY.

Fish.

Turbot, salmon, salmon trout, Berwick and fresh water trout, red and grey mullet, Johndories, skate, thornback, maids, soles, flounders, eels, lobsters, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

Game and Poultry.

Leverets, geese, ducks and ducklings, fowls, chickens, turkey poults, quails, wild rabbits, wheatears, and young wild ducks.

Fruit.

Pineapples, peaches, apricots, scarlet and wood strawberries, hautboys, summer apples, codlings, summer pears, green-gage and Orleans plums, melons, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, cherries of all kinds, and green walnuts to pickle.

Roots and Vegetables.

Carrots, potatoes, turnips, onions, cauliflowers, marrowfat and other peas, Windsor beans, French beans, mushrooms, sorrel, artichokes, spinach, cabbages, cucumbers, coss and cabbage lettuces, parsley, all sorts of sweet and potherbs, mint, balm, salsify, and field mushrooms.

AUGUST.

Fish.

Codlings, some turbot, which goes out this month, skate, thornback, maids, haddock, flounders, red and grey mullet, Johndories, pike, perch, gudgeons, roach, eels, oysters, crawfish, some salmon, salmon trout, Berwick and fresh water trout.

Game and Poultry.

Leverets, geese, turkey poults, ducks, fowls, chickens, wild rabbits, quails, wheatears, young wild ducks, and some pigeons.

Fruit.

Pineapples, melons, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines, apples, pears, all sorts of plums, morella cherries, filberts and other nuts, currants, raspberries, late gooseberries, figs, early grapes, mulberries, and ripe codlings.

Roots and Vegetables.

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, onions, horseradish, beet-root, shalots, garlic, cauliflower, French beans, later peas, cucumbers, cabbages, sprouts, coss lettuce, endive, celery, parsley, sweet herbs, artichokes, artichoke suckers, chardoons, mushrooms, and all sorts of small salads.

SEPTEMBER.

Fish.

Cod, codlings, skate, thornback, haddocks, soles, whitings, herrings come in full season, salmon, smelts, flounders, pike, perch, carp, tench, eels, lampreys, oysters, cockles, muscles, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

Game and Poultry.

Hares, leverets, partridges, quails, young turkeys, geese, ducks, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, pigeons, wild and tame rabbits, wild ducks, widgeon, teal, plover, larks, and pippets.

Fruit.

Pineapples, melons, grapes, peaches, plums, nectarines, pears, apples, quinces, medlars, filberts, hazel nuts, walnuts, morella cherries, damsons, white and black bullace.

Roots and Vegetables.

Carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, leeks, horseradish, beet-root, onions, shalots, garlic, celery, endive, coss and cabbage lettuces, artichokes, French beans, latter peas, mushrooms, cucumbers, red and other cabbages, cabbage plants, Jerusalem artichokes, parsley, sorrel, chervil, thyme, all sorts of sweet herbs, mint, balm, all sorts of small salad.

OCTOBER.

Fish.

Cod, codlings, brill, haddocks, whiting, soles, herrings, cole-fish, halibut, smelts, eels, flounders, perch, pike, carp, tench, oysters, cockles, muscles, lobsters, crabs, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

Game and Poultry.

Hares, leverets, pheasants, partridges, moor-game, grouse, turkeys, geese, ducks, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, pigeons, wild and tame rabbits, all sorts of wild-fowl, larks, plovers, woodcocks, snipes, wood-pigeons, pippets.

Fruit.

Pineapples, peaches, grapes, figs, medlars, all sorts of fine apples and pears, white plums, damsons, white and black bullace, quinces, filberts, walnuts, and chesnuts.

Roots and Vegetables.

Carrots, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, leeks, horseradish, onions, shalots, garlic, beet-root, artichokes, latter cauliflowers, red and white cabbages, savoys, cabbage plants, green and white brocoli, chardoons, green and brown cole, celery, endive, spinach, sorrel, chervil, parsley, purslain, all sorts of sweet herbs, coss and cabbage lettuces, rocambole, and all sorts of small salads.

NOVEMBER.

Fish.

Cod, salmon, herrings, barbel, halibut, smelts, flounders, whiting, haddock, pipers, gurnets, pike, perch, carp, tench, eels, lobsters, crabs, oysters, muscles, cockles, crawfish, prawns, and shrimps.

Game and Poultry.

The same as last month.

Fruit.

Pineapples, all sorts of winter pears, golden pippins, nonpareils, all sorts of winter apples, medlars, white and black bullace, and walnuts kept in sand.

Roots and Vegetables.

Turnips, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, beets, chardoons, onions, shalots, garlic, rocambole, cauliflowers in the greenhouse, red and other cabbages, savoys, cabbage plants, winter spinach, forced asparagus, late cucumbers, forced mushrooms, parsley, sorrel, chervil, thyme, all sorts of sweet herbs, celery, endive, cabbage lettuces, brown and green cole, and all sorts of small salads under glasses.

DECEMBER.

Fish.

Cod, codlings, halibut, skate, sturgeon, soles, salmon, gurnets, haddock, whiting, sometimes turbots come with the soles, herrings, perch, pike, carp, tench, eels, lobsters, crabs, crawfish, muscles, cockles, prawns, shrimps, Thames flounders, and smelts.

Game and Poultry.

Hares, pheasants, partridges, moor or heath game, grouse, turkeys, geese, capons, pullets, fowls, chickens, all sorts of wild-fowl, wood cocks, snipes, larks, wild and tame rabbits, dottrels, wood-pigeons, blackbirds, thrushes, plover both green and grey.

Fruit.

All sorts of winter pears and apples, medlars, chesnuts, Portugal grapes and grapes hung in the room, and walnuts kept in sand.

Roots and Vegetables.

Same as the last month.


Beef, mutton, and veal, are in season all the year; house lamb in January, February, March, April, May, October, November, and December. Grass lamb comes in at Easter and lasts till April or May; pork from September till April or May; roasting pigs all the year; buck venison in June, July, August, and September; doe and heifer venison in October, November, December, and January.


GENERAL RULES FOR A GOOD DINNER.

There should be always two soups, white and brown, two fish, dressed and undressed; a bouilli and petits-patés; and on the sideboard a plain roast joint, besides many savoury articles, such as hung beef, Bologna sausages, pickles, cold ham, cold pie, &c. some or all of these according to the number of guests, the names of which the head-servant ought to whisper about to the company, occasionally offering them. He should likewise carry about all the side-dishes or entrées, after the soups are taken away in rotation. A silver lamp should be kept burning, to put any dish upon that may grow cold.

It is indispensable to have candles, or plateau, or epergne, in the middle of the table.

Beware of letting the table appear loaded; neither should it be too bare. The soups and fish should be dispatched before the rest of the dinner is set on; but, lest any of the guests eat of neither, two small dishes of patés should be on the table. Of course, the meats and vegetables and fruits which compose these dinners must be varied according to the season, the number of guests, and the tastes of the host and hostess. It is also needless to add that without iced champagne and Roman punch a dinner is not called a dinner.

These observations and the following directions for dinners are suitable to persons who chuse to live fashionably; but the receipts contained in this book will suit any mode of living, and the persons consulting it will find matter for all tastes and all establishments. There is many an excellent dish not considered adapted to a fashionable table, which, nevertheless, is given in these pages.

A DINNER FOR FOURTEEN OR SIXTEEN PERSONS.

N.B. It is the fashion to lay two table-cloths, and never to leave the table uncovered. Of course, the individual things must be varied according to the season.

First Course.

Queen Soup, white,
removed by
Plain boiled Turbot.

Petits Patés of Oysters.
Plateau,
or
Epergne,
or
Candles.

Petits Patés of Chickens.
Herb Soup, brown,
removed by
Dressed fish (Salmon.)

Remove the whole and set on as follows:—

Sweetbreads,
larded.
Stewed Beef,
with
Vegetables.
Small
Beef
Pies.
Reindeer Tongues,
highly dressed in
sauce.
Dressed Peas. Rissoles of
Veal and Ham,
served
in sauce.
Macaroni,
with
Parmesan
cheese.

Plateau.
Dressed
Eggs.
Mutton
Cutlets
glazed in
onion sauce.
Stuffed Cabbage. Supreme of
Fowls.
Vol-au-vent. Roasted Turkey,
with truffles,
morels, chesnuts, &c.
Small breast
of Veal
glazed brown, with
Peas under.

On the sideboard, fish sauces, cold pie, hot ham, saddle of mutton roasted; pickles, cucumbers, salad, mashed potatoes, greens, and cauliflowers, crumbs of bread, and grated Parmesan cheese. These should be handed round, to eat with soup, or game, or fowl, if liked.

Second Course.

Cauliflower,
with cheese.
Larded Hare,
removed by
Souffle[16-*].
Orange
Jelly.
Apples
in compote.
Puffs and
Tartlets.

Plateau.
Stewed
Partridges.
Dressed
Pigeons.
Creams
in
Glasses.
Italian
Cream.
Small Puddings,
with sauce.
Two roasted Pheasants,
one larded,
one plain,
removed by
Fondu[16-+].
Jerusalem
Artichokes.

[16-*] Light sweet Pudding.

[16-+] Melted Cheese.

Remove the whole.

Third Course.

Pickles. Gruyère33-1
Cheese
and
Schabzieger[17-*].
Pickles.
Bologna
Sausages.
Savoury Toasts. Brawn.
Cold Pie.
Plateau.
Cold Pie.
Savoury Toasts.
Anchovies. Stilton
and
Parmesan.
Kipper Salmon.

Radishes, cucumbers, salad, butter, &c. to be handed from the side table.

[17-*] Swiss cheeses.

Dessert.

Pistachio Nuts and
Orange chips.
Cream Ice,
removed by
a Preserved
Pineapple.
Figs.
Dried
Sweetmeats.
Cake. Preserved
Plums.
Chantilly
Basket.

Plateau.
Pyramid with
various Sweetmeats.
Almonds
and Raisins.
Cake. Preserves of
Apricots.
Brandy
Cherries.
Water Ice
à la Macedoine,
removed by
Grapes.
Sugared
Walnuts.

DINNER FOR TWELVE OR FOURTEEN PERSONS.

First Course.

Lamb Cutlets and
Asparagus sauce.
White Soups,
removed by plain Fish:
removed by Bouilli,
dressed according to any
of the various receipts.
Stewed Chicken.
Patés.
Fricandeau, or
Sorrel sauce.
Dressed Vegetable
in a mould.
Beef Olives.
Small
savoury Pies.

Plateau.
Small Ham,
glazed.
Macaroni
in a mould.
Patés.
Breast of Veal, stewed
white, as per receipt.
Dressed Eggs. Small Ragout of
Mutton.
Any of the Brown Soups,
removed by any of the
dressed Fish.

Sideboard furnished with plain joint and vegetables of all sorts, pickles, &c.

Second Course.

Charlotte. Grouse. Plover’s Eggs.
Tart.
Jelly. Custards.

Plateau.
Partridges. Woodcocks.
Trifle.
Fried Artichokes. Dressed Sea Kale.
Leveret.

Third Course.

Various Cheeses,
with
Red Herring.
Savoury Toasts.
Radishes, Cucumbers,
&c.

Plateau.
Sausages, &c.
Savoury Toasts.
Potted Game.

Dessert.

Chesnuts. Ice Water,
removed by
Pineapple.
Walnuts.
Various
Cake.
Green Figs. Apples.

Plateau.
Filberts. Grapes.
Various
Cake.
Plums. Pears.
Ice Cream,
removed by
Peaches.

DINNER FOR TEN OR TWELVE PERSONS.

First Course.

Scotch Collops,
brown.
Brown Soup,
removed by
Fish,
removed by
Boiled Turkey,
white sauce.
Ragout of
Ham.
Vol-au-vent
of Chicken.
Fricandeau,
with Spinach.

Plateau.
Cutlets with
Tomata sauce.
Rissoles
of Fowl.
Macaroni
in paste.
White Soup,
removed by
Dressed Fish,
removed by
Roast Mutton.
Patés
of Veal.

Sideboard—salad, brocoli, mashed potatoes, cold pie, potted meats.

Second Course.

Orange Jelly. Peahen,
larded.
Plum Puddings.
Stewed Truffles.
Plateau.
Blancmange.
Tart,
Sponge Cake,
with Custard.
Two
Wild Fowls.
Eggs, with
white sauce,
cheesecakes.

Sideboard, Sea Kale, Pickles, Greens, Potatoes.

Third Course.

Gruyère—Schabzieger.
Butter. Celery.
Grated Parmesan.
Radishes.
Plateau.
Cheese in
square pieces.
Salad.

Dessert.

Ice.
Biscuits. Currants.
Apricots.
Various Cakes.
Strawberries. Preserved Orange.

Plateau.
Preserved Pine. Cherries.
Cakes.
Peaches.
Gooseberries. Wafers.
Ice.

DINNER FOR EIGHT PERSONS.

First Course.

Dressed
Asparagus.
Patés of Veal
and Ham.
Fish,
removed by
Loin of Mutton,
rolled with
Tomata sauce.
Dressed Tongues.
Plateau.
Beef Olives.
Stewed Spinach.
Soup,
removed by
Roast Neck of Veal,
with rich white sauce
and Mushrooms.
Macaroni. Stewed Spinach.

Sideboard, a bouilli, a joint, pickles, plain boiled vegetables, &c.

Second Course.

Dressed
Eggs.
Stewed Pigeons,
removed by
a Fondu.
Dressed
French beans.
Apple Tart.
Plateau.
Four small
Plum Puddings.
Fried
Artichokes.
Roast Fowl,
with
Water Cresses,
removed by
Souffle.
Dressed Ham.

When a plain roast fowl, there should be on the sideboard egg sauce or bread sauce; if a plain duck, wine sauce or onion sauce.

Cheese Course.

Various Cheeses,
Bologna Sausages,
Pickles.
Savoury Toasts,
&c. &c.

Dessert.

Ice Cream,
removed by
a large Cake
stuck with Sweetmeats.
Oranges. Brandy
Cherries.
Dry Preserves.

Plateau.
Wet Preserves. Apples.
Brandy
Peaches.
Strawberries.

DINNER FOR SIX PERSONS.

First Course.

Small Ham. Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Fish,
removed by
Roast Veal
bechamelled.
Sea Kale,
white sauce.

Plateau.
Stewed Turnips,
browned.
Alamode
Beef.
Mutton Cutlets,
Sauce piquante.

Second Course.

Blancmange. Turkey Poult stuffed,
glazed brown,
fine rich brown sauce
under.
Croquets
of Potatoes.

Plateau.
Dressed Peas. Stewed Duck,
with Truffles, Morells,
&c.
Tart.

Third Course.

Two or three sorts of cheeses (plain), a small fondu, relishes, &c.

Dessert.

Brandy Peaches. Ice,
removed by
Preserved Citron.
Apples.

Plateau.
Oranges. Large Cake
like a hedgehog,
stuck with Almonds.
Dry Preserves.

DINNER FOR FOUR PERSONS.

First Course.

Hare Soup,
removed by
Fish,
removed by
Bouilli Beef.
Tendrons de veau.
Plateau.
Dressed Ham.
Brocoli.
Chicken Pie

Second Course.

Raspberry
Cream.
Widgeon. Stewed
French Beans.
Croquettes
of Potatoes.

Plateau.
Tart.
Partridge.

Cheese as usual.

Dessert.

Orange Chips. Dry Preserves.
Wet Preserves. Wafers.

SOUPS.

Almond Soup.

Take lean beef or veal, about eight or nine pounds, and a scrag of mutton; boil them gently in water that will cover them, till the gravy be very strong and the meat very tender; then strain off the gravy and set it on the fire with two ounces of vermicelli, eight blades of mace, twelve cloves, to a gallon. Let it boil till it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready one pound of the best almonds, blanched and pounded very fine; pound them with the yolks of twelve eggs, boiled hard, mixing as you pound them with a little of the soup, lest the almonds should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp: add a little soup by degrees to the almonds and eggs until mixed together. Let the soup be cool when you mix it, and do it perfectly smooth. Strain it through a sieve; set it on the fire; stir it frequently; and serve it hot. Just before you take it up add a gill of thick cream.

Asparagus Soup.

Put five or six pounds of lean beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into your stewpan, with two or three slices of bacon at the bottom: set it on a slow fire and cover it close, stirring it now and then, till your gravy is drawn; then put in two quarts of water and half a pint of pale ale; cover it close and let it stew gently for an hour. Put in some whole pepper and salt to your taste. Then strain out the liquor and take off the fat; put in the leaves of white beet, some spinach, some cabbage lettuce, a little mint, sorrel, and sweet marjoram, pounded; let these boil up in your liquor. Then put in your green tops of asparagus, cut small, and let them boil till all is tender. Serve hot, with the crust of a French roll in the dish.

Another.

Boil three half pints of winter split peas; rub them through a sieve; add a little gravy; then stew by themselves the following herbs:—celery, a few young onions, a lettuce, cut small, and about half a pint of asparagus, cut small, like peas, and stewed with the rest; colour the soup of a pea green with spinach juice; add half a pint of cream or good milk, and serve up.

Calf’s Head Soup.

Take a knuckle of veal, and put as much water to it as will make a good soup; let it boil, skimming it very well. Add two carrots, three anchovies, a little mace, pepper, celery, two onions, and some sweetherbs. Let it boil to a good soup, and strain it off. Put to it a full half pint of Madeira wine; take a good many mushrooms, stew them in their own liquor; add this sauce to your soup. Scald the calf’s head as for a hash; cut it in the same manner, but smaller; flour it a little, and fry it of a fine brown. Then put the soup and fried head together into a stewpan, with some oysters and mushrooms, and let them stew gently for an hour.

Carrot Soup.

Take about two pounds of veal and the same of lean beef; make it into a broth or gravy, and put it by until wanted. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four large fine carrots, two turnips, two parsnips, two heads of celery, and four onions; stew these together about two hours, and shake it often that they may not burn to the stewpan; then add the broth made as above, boiling hot, in quantity to your own judgment, and as you like it for thickness. It should be of about the consistency of pea-soup. Pass it through a tamis. Season to your taste.

Another.

Take four pounds of beef, a scrag of mutton, about a dozen large carrots, four onions, some pepper and salt; put them into a gallon of water, and boil very gently for four hours. Strain the meat, and take the carrots and rub them very smooth through a hair sieve, adding the gravy by degrees till about as thick as cream. The gravy must have all the fat taken off before it is added to the carrots. Turnip soup is made in the same way.

Clear Soup.

Take six pounds of gravy beef; cut it small, put it into a large stewpan, with onions, carrots, turnips, celery, a small bunch of herbs, and one cup of water. Stew these on the fire for an hour, then add nine pints of boiling water; let it boil for six hours, strain it through a fine sieve, and let it stand till next day; take off the fat; put it into a clean stewpan, set it on the fire till it is quite hot; then break three eggs into a basin, leaving the shells with them. Add this to the soup by degrees; cover close till it boils; then strain it into a pan through a fine cloth. When the eggs are well beaten, a little hot soup must be added by degrees, and beaten up before it is put into the stewpan with the whole of the soup.

Clear Herb Soup.

Put celery, leeks, carrots, turnips, cabbage lettuce, young onions, all cut fine, with a handful of young peas: give them a scald in boiling water; put them on a sieve to drain, and then put them into a clear consommé, and let them boil slowly till the roots are quite tender. Season with a little salt. When going to table put a little crust of French roll in it.

Cod’s Head Soup.

Take six large onions, cut them in slices, and put them in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of the freshest butter. Set it in a stove to simmer for an hour, covered up close; take the head, and with a knife and fork pick all the fins you can get off the fish. Put this in a dish, dredge it well with flour, and let it stand. Take all the bones of the head and the remainder, and boil them on the fire for an hour, with an English pint of water. Strain off the liquor through a sieve, and put it to your onions; take a good large handful of parsley, well washed and picked clean; chop it as fine as possible; put it in the soup; let it just boil, otherwise it will make it yellow. Add a little cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of anchovy, a little soy, a little of any sort of ketchup, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Then put the fish that has been set aside on the plate into the stewpan to the soup, and let it simmer for ten minutes. If not thick enough add a small piece of butter rolled in flour.

Crawfish Soup.

Boil off your crawfish; take the tails out of the shells; roast a couple of lobsters; beat these with your crawfish shells; put this into your fish stock, with some crusts of French rolls. Rub the whole through a tamis, and put your tails into it. You may farce a carp and put in the middle, if you please, or farce some of the shells and stick on a French roll.

Crawfish, or Lobster Soup.

Take some middling and small fishes, and put them in a gallon of water, with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, sweetherbs, and onions; boil them to pieces, and strain them out of the liquor. Then take a large fish, cut the flesh off one side, make forcemeat of it, and lay it on the fish; dredge grated bread in it, and butter a dish well; put it in the oven and bake it. Then take one hundred crawfish, break the shells of the tails and claws, take out the meat as whole as you can; pound the shells and add the spawn of a lobster pounded; put them into the soup, and, if you like, a little veal gravy; give them a boil or two together. Strain the liquor off into another saucepan, with the tops of French bread, dried, beat fine, and sifted. Give it a boil to thicken; then brown some butter, and put in the tails and claws of the crawfish, and some of the forcemeat made into balls. Lay the baked fish in the middle of the dish, pour the soup boiling hot on it; if you like, add yolks of eggs, boiled hard, pounded, and mixed by degrees with the soup.

Curry or Mulligatawny Soup.

Boil a large chicken or fowl in a pint of water till half done; add a table-spoonful of curry powder, with the juice of one lemon and a half; boil it again gently till the meat is done.

For a large party you must double the quantity of all the articles, and always proportion the water to the quantity of gravy you think the meat will yield.

Eel Soup.

Take two pounds of eels; put to them two quarts of water, a crust of bread, two or three blades of mace, some whole pepper, one onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Cover them close, and let them stew till the liquor is reduced to one half, and if the soup is not rich enough it must boil till it is stronger.—Then strain it, toast some bread, and cut it in small.

This soup will be as good as if meat were put into it. A pound of eels makes a pint of soup.

Fish Soup.

Stew the heads, tails, and fins, of any sort of flat fish or haddock. Strain and thicken with a little flour and butter; add pepper, salt, anchovy, and ketchup, to taste. Cut the fish in thick pieces, and let them stew gently till done.

French Soup.

Take the scrag end of a neck of mutton, or two pounds of any meat, and make it into very strong broth; then take one large cabbage, three lettuces, three carrots, one root of celery, and two onions; cut them all small, and fry them with butter. Pour your broth upon your vegetables a little at a time, cover it up close, and let it stew three hours or more. Serve with the vegetables.

Friar’s Chicken.

Stew a knuckle of veal, a neck of mutton, a large fowl, two pounds of giblets, two large onions, two bunches of turnips, one bunch of carrots, a bunch of thyme, and another of sage, eight hours over a very slow stove, till every particle of juice is extracted from the meat and vegetables. Take it off the stove, pass it through a hair tamis; have ready a pound of grated veal, or, what is better, of grated chicken, with a large bunch of parsley, chopped very fine and mingled with it. Put this into the broth; set it on the stove again, and while there break four raw eggs into it. Stir the whole for about a quarter of an hour and serve up hot.

Giblet Soup. No. 1.

Take the desired quantity of strong beef gravy; add to it a few slices of veal fried in butter; take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and with it fry some sliced onion and thyme; when made brown, add it to the soup. When sufficiently stewed, strain and put to it two spoonfuls of ketchup, a few spoonfuls of Madeira, and a little lemon juice. The giblets being separately stewed in a pint of water, add their gravy to the soup.

Giblet Soup. No. 2.

Parboil the giblets, and pour the water from them; put them into fresh water or thin gravy, with a large onion stuck with cloves; season it to your taste; boil them till the flesh comes from the bones. Mix the yolk of an egg with flour into a paste; roll it two or three times over with a rollingpin; cut it in pieces, and thicken the soup with it.

Giblet Soup. No. 3.

Take three pair of goose giblets; scald and cut them as for stewing; set them on the fire in three quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim them well: put in a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and allspice, tied in a bag, with some pepper and salt. Stew them very gently till nearly tender: mix a quarter of a pound of butter with flour, and put it in, with half a pint of white wine, and a little cayenne pepper. Stew them till thick and smooth; take out the herbs and spices; skim well; boil the livers in a quart of water till tender, and put in. Serve up in a terrine or dish.

Gravy Soup. No. 1.

Put two pounds of gravy beef, cut in small pieces, with pepper, salt, some whole pepper, and a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, into a stewpan. When drawn to a good gravy, pour in three quarts of boiling water; add some mace, four heads of celery, one carrot, and three or four onions. Let them stew gently about an hour and a half; then strain; add an ounce and half of vermicelli, and let it stew about ten minutes longer.

Gravy Soup. No. 2.

Take two ox melts, cut them in pieces, season them with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Shred two large onions, fry them of a nice brown colour, put them at the bottom of the saucepan with a piece of butter. Take one ox rump, stew it with carrots and celery and twelve allspice. Then put all together and strain well. This quantity will make three quarts. You may send the ox rump to table in the soup, if approved. Two carrots and two heads of celery will be sufficient.