LOWNEY’S COOK BOOK

COOK BOOK

ILLUSTRATED IN COLORS
A NEW GUIDE FOR THE HOUSEKEEPER, ESPECIALLY
INTENDED AS A FULL RECORD OF
DELICIOUS DISHES SUFFICIENT FOR ANY
WELL-TO-DO FAMILY, CLEAR ENOUGH FOR
THE BEGINNER, AND COMPLETE ENOUGH
FOR AMBITIOUS PROVIDERS

PREPARED AND REVISED BY
ONE OF THE MOST EXPERIENCED AND SUCCESSFUL TEACHERS OF
COOKING IN THE COUNTRY, AS THE LATEST FRUITS OF
PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC KNOWLEDGE OF THE ART
MARIA WILLETT HOWARD
————————
REVISED EDITION
————————
PUBLISHED BY
THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.
486 HANOVER STREET, BOSTON
1908

Copyright, 1907, 1908,
By THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.
BOSTON.
Norwood Press
J. S. Cushing Co.—Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.

PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION

We are giving the public in this new edition eighteen admirable colored plates on three inserts which show the two most common methods of cutting beef, a chapter on economical dishes, one on Southern or Creole dishes, and about fifty new receipts, in addition to the same superfine cook book that has been received with so much favor.

It is our aim to improve the book in every way and keep it abreast of the times. No one—not even the United States government—has ever attempted such expensive illustrations of cuts of meat, and we believe they will be appreciated by every one who has occasion to order provisions.

The price of the book remains the same, and we are glad to furnish a greatly improved cook book of increased cost as our recognition of the friendly attitude of the great public toward our goods.

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.

Boston.

INTRODUCTION

We present this cook book with confidence that it brings up to date the modern possibilities of the table. It is prepared by a woman who has devoted her life to scientific and artistic cooking, and who has recently been honored by appointment to full charge of the culinary department of one of the most advanced colleges for self-supporting women in the country. She speaks with knowledge and authority.

We hope the book will contribute something to the fine art of living in many homes, making those homes the happier and more attractive for the husband and children, and solving many a problem for brides and beginners.

Thousands of our most valued customers cannot afford to prepare many of these dishes very often for their tables. But there are special occasions when we all feel that we can have the best for ourselves and our guests. This book will stand the strain of such occasions.

There are hundreds of simple dishes here for all tastes, suitable for all pocket-books. With this book as a guide, it will be possible for any woman to live within her means and still have that infinite variety on the table which means so much for appetite and health, which we all wish for and which we wish for you all.

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO.

Boston.

CONTENTS

PART I

• VALUE OF FOOD TO THE BODY.
• METHODS OF COOKING.
• JUST HOW.
• CARVING.
• MARKETING.
• DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS.
• BUTLER’S DUTIES.
• GARNISHING.
• WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

PART I

VALUE OF FOOD TO THE BODY

“Food is that which when taken into the body tends either to build tissue or to yield energy.”

The chief offices of food are to build the material of the body, to repair the waste which is continually going on and to yield heat to keep the body warm.

Foods may be divided into tissue-building foods and fuel foods.

The tissue-building foods are such foods as milk, eggs, cheese, wheat, meat and the legumes. The fuel foods are sugars and starches and fats and oils.

In order to keep the body in a good condition a combination of the tissue-building foods and the fuel foods is necessary, with a supply of water to dissolve them. About 125 grams of tissue-building foods and 550 grams of the fuel foods is the amount required daily. A mixed diet, therefore, is the ideal diet for the healthy adult.

The changing of the tissues and the assimilation of food are very rapid in childhood and youth, so that the system demands at that time an abundant supply of such foods as meat, milk and eggs. When middle age is reached, the amount of such food should be decreased. Otherwise the tax on the organs which take care of the wastes will be so great that disease will follow.

Thus it is clear that people of different ages require different combinations and amounts of food. The kinds of food required to nourish the healthy body vary also with the sex, occupation and climate, as well as with the age and peculiarities of the individual. In order to judge of the relative value of food to the body it is necessary to find out what percentage of each nutritive constituent the food contains, how much energy it is capable of yielding, how much of the food eaten is digested, how much is absorbed, and whether the nutritive constituents are obtained at a reasonable cost.

Farmers’ Bulletin No. 23, published by the United States Department of Agriculture, will be found interesting to those caring to study foods from the above standpoints.

Mr. W. O. Atwater, Ph. D., writes in Farmers Bulletin No. 142, on “Food and Food Economy,” the following table:—

Nutritive Ingredients (or Nutrients) of Food

Uses of Nutrients in the Body

Thus foods have different functions. The proteid or nitrogenous foods build up and repair the tissues; mineral matter and water are also necessary for this purpose. The tissues of the body cannot be kept in a healthy state unless these constituents of food are taken into the system regularly; only the proteid foods can repair the waste of the living tissue. The proteid foods, together with the fats and carbohydrates, may supply both power and heat for the body, but the special functions of the carbohydrates and fats are to keep the body warm and to supply energy.

The amount of proteid food required for a healthy adult is very difficult to determine. It is safe to state that too much proteid brings about undue strain upon the digestive apparatus, and that too little proteid reduces the working equipment of the body. The amount of fats and carbohydrates needed depend largely upon occupation and climate. The proteid foods are many, and contain the same chemical elements as the bodies which they are destined to feed; also they seem to be more completely taken care of in the body than the carbohydrate foods. Milk, cheese, eggs, meat, and fish are proteid foods. Of these milk is regarded as a typical food, as it contains all the nutritive constituents required by the body,—proteid, carbohydrates, fats, mineral matter, and water,—but it does not contain these constituents in the correct proportion. It is too rich in proteid and fat and too poor in carbohydrate to be a perfect food. It is a perfect food for the infant, because an excess of proteid and of fat is needed for the growth of the child. For the healthy man about eight pints daily would be required for complete nutrition. This, it is apparent, would be a very bulky food, and the system would be burdened with too large a proportion of water. Milk, on the other hand, is the cheapest source of proteid. It is claimed that one quart of good milk is equivalent in proteid to a pound of beefsteak, and that when combined with the correct proportion of carbohydrate food it possesses great nutritive and economic value. All of the proteid foods are deficient in starch, so must be combined with carbohydrates to properly nourish the body.

According to Mr. Atwater the proteid foods are more completely digested than the carbohydrates. This is probably because there is found in all carbohydrate foods a large proportion of cellulose or indigestible material enveloping the starch and sugar. The nutritive value of the carbohydrate foods is large if the starch and sugar, of which they are composed, can be separated from the cellulose. The normal diet is one which contains proteid foods, carbohydrate foods, fatty foods, with the correct proportion of mineral matter and sufficient water to moisten them.

The proper diet depends largely upon the occupation. People of sedentary habits and brain workers need more digestible food than the day laborer—therefore, the necessity of mixed diets; but diets should be varied as well as mixed, and the true housekeeper in planning meals thinks what was served at the preceding meal.

The cheapest diet is that which yields the largest amount of nutriment for the least expenditure of money. The most economical diet is that which is cheapest and at the same time best adapted to the needs of the user. The most expensive diet is not necessarily the most nutritious.

Every good housekeeper should know approximately the composition of the various foodstuffs, and so be able to make proper combinations of foods and substitutions when necessary. Hunger and thirst are provided by nature as guides in the choice of food, and if the bodily conditions are normal, these, as a rule, are safe guides to follow.

The nutritive value of many foods depends upon how they are cooked. Many raw foods are indigestible, but these same foods cooked are nutritious. The importance of proper cooking cannot be overestimated. Cooking changes the food so that the digestive juices can take care of it; cooking improves the flavor and the appearance, thus making the food more appetizing; and cooking kills disease germs, parasites, and other dangerous organisms.

Proper cooking and dainty serving make even cheap foods more palatable. This stimulates the digestive juices; hence food should be made appetizing in order to obtain the greatest nutritive value from it.

METHODS OF COOKING

Boiling

Boiling point is the temperature at which a fluid is converted into vapor, with the phenomenon of ebullition. The boiling point of water is 212 degrees Fahrenheit. In cooking, the term boiling means the cooking of food in a boiling liquid, and water is the liquid generally used. Rapidly boiling water is no hotter than when the agitation is less, but in some cases, as in the boiling of rice, violently boiling water is recommended for the purpose of keeping the grains of rice separated. The boiling point of water once reached can be held with a moderate amount of heat.

Food is generally boiled by putting immediately into boiling water. This sears the surface, and keeps in the juices; but if the water is to be used for soups, gravies, and so forth, the food is put into cold water and brought slowly to the boiling point. Salt is added to the boiling water ordinarily when cooking food, as it tends to keep the flavor in the food.

Roasting

Roasting, truly speaking, is cooking food before an open fire, so that roasting is seldom accomplished in modern kitchens.

Baking

Baking is cooking food by dry heat in an inclosed oven. The oven should be very hot when the food is first put in, then the heat reduced.

In baking meats, basting frequently with hot fat will drive the heat to the center and make the meat juicy.

Stewing

Stewing is cooking food in water kept below the boiling point, and is similar to simmering.

Fricasseeing

Fricasseeing is a combination of sautéing and simmering. The food is first sautéd and then simmered until tender.

Steaming

Moist steaming is accomplished by placing the food in a perforated dish over a kettle of boiling water and cooking until tender.

Dry steaming is accomplished by placing the food in the top of a double boiler and keeping the water boiling in the lower part until the food is cooked.

Simmering

Simmering is cooking in water at 185 degrees Fahrenheit or 27 degrees below the point of boiling. This method of cooking is employed where long, slow cooking is desired, as in making stews, soups and so forth; also for cooking tough cuts of meat.

As a rule, in both boiling and simmering, the kettle should be tightly covered.

Braising

Braising is a form of cooking generally adopted for cooking tough meats. The food to be braised is placed in a kettle with a few slices of salt pork, some vegetables, seasonings and a small amount of liquid, either water or stock. The kettle is then covered closely and the food cooked until tender. Braising is a long, slow process.

Frying

Frying is cooking food in hot fat, deep enough to cover the food. Lard, olive oil, cottolene or drippings may be used. The fat should be heated hot enough to brown a piece of bread a golden brown in forty seconds for cooked food, and in sixty seconds for uncooked food. There are various theories about the digestibility of fried food. The latest seems to be that food properly fried and drained may not be very indigestible. To prepare fat for frying, fill frying kettle one half full, and heat gradually. Avoid frying too much at a time, as the temperature will be reduced and the food much more liable to absorb fat. Reheat fat after each frying. Drain the food on brown paper.

Sautéing

Sautéing is cooking food in a frying pan in a small amount of fat. Food is less digestible cooked in this way than fried food.

Broiling

Broiling is cooking the food on a greased broiler before hot coals or the gas flame. The broiler should be held very near the flame at first to sear the surface of the food, and should be turned every ten seconds for the first minute of cooking, and afterwards occasionally.

Pan Broiling

Pan broiling is cooking the food in a hissing-hot frying pan without fat. It is employed where it is impossible to broil, and may be better accomplished where two frying pans are used, and the food turned from one to the other every ten seconds for the first minute and afterwards occasionally, as in broiling.

JUST HOW

How to Crumb, Egg and Crumb

For crumbing, dried bread crumbs which have been pounded or rolled until fine and then sifted are best. The bread may be broken in pieces and dried in the oven or merely allowed to stand in the open air until dried.

To prepare the egg, break into soup plate, beat until yolk and white are well blended, season with salt and pepper, dilute with two tablespoons cold water and use for dipping.

Food to be fried should be dried as much as possible, then dipped in crumbs, then placed in the egg, and thoroughly covered with the egg, then drained and dipped again in crumbs.

It is an economy of time to crumb all of the pieces to be fried, then egg all, and when drained, to crumb all. This may be done in the morning and the food fried when wanted. In this case, allow the prepared food to stand in kitchen fifteen or twenty minutes before frying. When fried always drain on brown paper.

How to bone Meat, Fish, Birds

Legs and loins of lamb and mutton are the meats ordinarily boned. The butcher will do it; but if it must be done at home, wipe the meat, and with a sharp knife scrape the meat from the bone, being careful not to cut through the skin. Fish to be boned generally have the heads cut off; then remove the flesh from one side of the backbone, and then from the other.

To bone birds, chickens, or turkeys, select undrawn birds, with head and feet left on. Remove pin feathers and singe. Draw tendons from legs by making an incision just below the knee joint, and with a strong skewer draw the tendons out one at a time. Loosen the skin near the feet and cut off feet. Make an incision through the skin from the neck to the tail, the entire length of the backbone. Scrape the flesh from the bones until the shoulder blade is found, then continue scraping around the wing joint. Scrape down the backbone to the thigh, then around the second joint and leg, cutting tendinous portion when necessary. When one side of backbone is boned, bone the other, then remove flesh from breastbone, on either side of bird. When flesh is all separated from bone, discard carcass, wipe flesh and skin, and arrange in original shape. The birds may be seasoned and broiled; or stuffed, sewed into shape and steamed. Small birds are generally prepared the former way, and large birds the latter way.

How to clarify Fat

When through frying, add a pared potato, cut in slices, to the fat, and let stand on back of range until potato has browned. Remove potato and strain fat through a cheese cloth. Fat clarified in this way may be used indefinitely.

How to clarify Melted Butter

Let melted butter stand in a dish on back of the range until the salt has settled, then pour off butter, leaving sediment in the bottom of the dish.

How to avoid the Burning of Fat

When fat is put on the range to heat for frying, put in a cube of bread. If the fat is forgotten, the bread will burn first, and the odor of the burned crumb will attract the attention. The burned flavor cannot be removed from burned fat.

How to try out Suet

Cut the suet in small pieces, place in top of double boiler, cover, and cook over hot water until all the fat is tried out; strain through a cheese cloth. This can be done in the oven if the top of the range is crowded.

How to Lard

Larding is accomplished by cutting strips of salt pork lengthwise with the rind two inches long and one quarter inch wide, and with aid of the larding needle drawing these pieces through the surface of the meat, taking a stitch an inch long and a quarter inch deep.

How to test Fat for Frying

Heat the fat. When a blue smoke begins to appear, drop in a cube of bread; if the bread browns a golden brown in forty seconds, the fat is hot enough for any food which has previously been cooked. Uncooked food requires a longer, slower frying; the cube of bread should brown in sixty seconds for such food.

Food cooked in fat tested in this way should never soak fat if one is careful to put a small enough quantity of food in at a time—not enough to cool the fat.

How to make Croquettes

For meat croquettes, cold cooked meat should be freed from skin and gristle, and cut quite fine, then mixed with a thick sauce to as soft a consistency as it is possible to handle. Chill before shaping. For vegetable croquettes the vegetables should be boiled, then mashed and seasoned. Chill before shaping.

To Shape.—Allow one rounding tablespoon of croquette mixture for each croquette, roll into a round ball, roll ball in crumbs, then shape either like a cylinder or pyramid; when all are perfect and uniform, dip in egg, then in crumbs.

How to prepare Sweetbreads

Soak in cold water from the time they come from the market until used. Drain, cover with two cups cold water, add four cloves, one and a half teaspoons salt, two tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice, and a slice of onion; simmer for one half hour, drain, cover with cold water, remove tubes and membranes. Broil whole; or if for larding, dip in egg, wrap in cheese cloth, and press under weight over night.

How to care for the Refrigerator

Select a large refrigerator, of simple construction and of hardwood,—the lining of zinc or marble and the shelves of slate or hardwood.

To keep the refrigerator clean, remove instantly any food spilled in any of the compartments. Wash the ice compartment and food chambers at least once a week with hot soapsuds, and for economy’s sake do this when the ice is low. Pour boiling water down the waste pipe. Sal soda dissolved in the water tends to keep every part sweet and clean.

Shelves and all portable parts, when washed and scalded, should be placed in the sun to dry; if this is impossible, dry before a fire.

Keep a good supply of ice in the ice chamber; it is cheaper in the end.

Never keep the doors or covers of the refrigerator open unnecessarily long; it wastes the ice.

A good refrigerator properly cared for should last at least twenty-five years.

How to Caramelize

Place sugar in clean agate-ware frying pan, and stir continually until the sugar becomes a golden brown sirup.

How to Poach

Place food to be poached in frying pan half filled with boiling salted water. Cook below the boiling point from three to eight minutes.

How to cream Butter

Place butter in bowl, and mash against the sides of the bowl, with a spoon, until of a creamy consistency.

How to cut and Fold

Pour mixture into bowl, and cut through and through mixture with a spoon, then take up some of mixture in spoon, and turn spoon completely over, and fold under mixture. Continue this process until mixture is blended.

How to crease Frosting

When frosting is nearly cold, cut with a silver knife, wiping knife after making each crease.

CARVING

To master the art of carving one must understand the anatomy of the meat to be carved.

The carver should insist upon having a sharp knife, a large platter, and sufficient space to move his arms.

Whole Fish

The carving of fish is extremely simple. Run the knife the whole length of the back, then cut from the back to the middle of the fish; the flesh may then be separated from the bone. When one side is served, turn the fish over and carve the other side in the same way.

The center of the fish is considered the best, as it is the fattest portion. The meat around the head and neck is decidedly gelatinous.

Medium-sized fish, like mackerel, salmon, trout, and so forth, are cut through the bone, thus giving a piece of fish on either side of the backbone for each serving.

Small fish are generally served so as to make four fillets,—two fillets on either side of the backbone.

Beef

For carving roast beef, a long, broad-bladed knife is required. Always cut across the grain of the meat; never with the grain.

The joint of beef known as the Porterhouse roast or sirloin roast consists of the sirloin, the tenderloin, and the flank. The flank is tough, and if roasted with the meat, is generally used for some made dish, such as croquettes, or hashed meat on toast; it is seldom carved at the table.

The tenderloin and sirloin must be carved across the grain. Cut thin slices parallel to the ribs or at right angles with the backbone, then cut close to the backbone, thus separating the slices. Rib roasts are carved in the same way as the sirloin.

Rolled ribs and round of beef are carved in round slices as thin as possible, each slice having considerable fat mixed with the lean.

Beefsteaks are carved across the grain.

Sirloin Steak.—Cut slices at right angles to the vertebræ in both the sirloin and the tenderloin, then separate.

Lamb and Mutton

A leg of mutton is considered by many the most difficult piece of meat to carve. If the hip bone is removed, the carving of this joint is simple, but it is usually left in. Place the leg on the platter, with the skin side next the platter. Carve from the hip bone across the leg; these will be the largest slices, as they come from the part of the joint which has the most meat. The portions near the knuckle are to be carved in the same way; they will not be so rare as the thicker slices. Chops may be cut from the upper part of the leg.

Fore Quarter of Mutton or Lamb.—Remove the fore leg and the shoulder, then separate the rib chops. Every part of the fore quarter of lamb is sweet and tender, but the neck in the fore quarter of mutton should be used only for stewing. In carving the shoulder of either lamb or mutton, one must study the meat before cooking.

The Saddle of Mutton.—There are several ways of carving this joint. The fat, tenderloin and kidney should all be removed in one piece.

The most popular way is to cut long slices parallel with the backbone, on the portion nearest the tail, and slices diagonally on the portion nearest the neck.

The Loin of Mutton.—Generally this joint is carved by merely separating the chops, but it may be carved in the same manner as the saddle of mutton.

Veal

Fillet of Veal.—This cut is carved like the round of beef.

Shoulder of Veal.—The shoulder is often boned and stuffed. In that case, cut through the meat from side to side. If the bone is left in, carve in the same manner as the shoulder of mutton.

Loin of Veal.—-This cut is often stuffed, and the kidney is always cooked with the meat. Carve the same as the sirloin of beef, in large, thin slices.

Pork

Pork Spareribs.—Serve one rib to each person.

Loin of Pork.—Chops may be carved and served, or the roast may be carved exactly like the sirloin of beef.

Roast Ham.—Cut through the meat to the bone, using the portion nearest the knuckle first. Ham should be cut in very thin slices.

Tongue.—The small end of the tongue is inferior to the thicker portion. Cut slices crosswise of the tongue and serve a slice from both portions to each person.

Roast Pig.—Place the head of the pig at the right hand of the carver. Cut off the ears, then the head; cut the head in halves. Cut the whole length of the backbone, dividing the creature in two pieces.

Cut off the leg of one half, then separate the shoulder from the body. Carve the ribs and loin at right angles with the backbone. Cut the other half in the same way. Young pig meat is very tender and the bones are soft, so that carving is an easy matter.

Poultry and Game

To carve Poultry.—Place the bird on the platter, with the head to the left and the side toward the carver. Insert the fork across the center of the breastbone. Remove the wing, then the leg, then the side bone between leg and body. Cut slices from the breast, running from breastbone to place from which wing was removed. Remove wishbone by cutting from end of breast to the left of the wing joint. Make an incision to the right of breastbone for removing stuffing.

Remove fork from breastbone and cut the leg in small portions. Serve a slice of light and a slice of dark meat to each person.

Serve one side of bird before carving the other side.

Broiled Chicken.—Cut through the breast and cut in halves at right angles with the top of leg. But if birds are small, serve one to each person.

To carve a Duck.—Cut off the wing and the leg the same as for poultry. Cut the breast meat parallel with the breastbone, beginning at the side between the wing joint and the thigh.

To carve a Goose.—Carve in the same manner as a roast duck, but cut the leg in several portions.

Grouse and Partridge.—These birds are carved like duck, although sometimes the breast is separated from the bone and one half breast is served to each person.

Pigeons, quails, and small birds are served whole and generally on toast.

MARKETING

The term marketing means to the ordinary housekeeper the buying of meats and vegetables only, but the buying of all articles necessary for housekeeping should be included under this head.

In order to market well the housekeeper must know what articles to buy in quantity and when to buy to the best advantage.

It is much more economical proportionately to buy for a large family than for a small one.

PLATE B
BOSTON CUTS

Staple articles such as bread flour, rice, spices, and so forth, should be bought in large quantities. Vegetables which keep well, such as potatoes, squashes, turnips, and so forth, should be bought in the early fall to last until spring, provided there is a cool, dark place in which to keep them. Meats must necessarily be purchased as needed, unless one has a large refrigerator in which to hang them.

Fish, with the exception of salt or smoked kinds, should be bought only when absolutely fresh. Fruits such as apples and pears may be bought in large quantities, but perishable fruits in small amounts only.

Beef

The beef creature is first divided into halves the length of the backbone, then each half is separated into the fore quarter and the hind quarter.

In the fore quarter we have in Boston markets—

In the hind quarter we have in Boston markets—

Other parts of the beef creature used as food are—

A side of beef weighs on the average about 450 pounds.

Beef when first cut is dark purple, but turns red on exposure to the air. Good beef has a heavy layer of fat on the outside, which is yellowish white and crumbly; the inside fat is white. Best quality beef has a large percentage of fat and a small proportion of water.

Description of Cuts of Beef

In the Boston markets, the part marked (4) in the side of beef in [Plate A] has three ribs left on and the whole piece is called the sirloin. It is divided by the butcher into the tip which has one muscle only, the middle and the first cut. The fillet or tenderloin of beef is found just under the first rib. It begins in a small point and increases in thickness as it runs back. It ends in an obtuse point at the hip bone. It is always covered with a thick bed of suet and the kidneys are embedded in this suet at the end near the ribs. Sirloin roasts are considered by many the best roasts. They are expensive cuts as they contain considerable bone, and in a large creature, a large amount of tough flank, but as they are tender, juicy and of good flavor they are popular pieces.

PLATE C
BOSTON CUTS

Porterhouse Steaks are sirloin steaks cut from the sirloin nearest the rump; they always have a large piece of tenderloin. They are generally a few cents per pound more than the sirloin without the tenderloin. Sirloin Steaks are cut from all parts of the loin.

The rump joins the sirloin as shown in [Plate A]. The back of the rump is the best piece for roasting as it contains no bone; it is more economical than the sirloin roasts, but as the flavor is different it is not so popular. The middle and face of the rump are both used for roasts, but are less juicy and tender than the back. Both of these pieces are often used for beef à la mode.

Rump Steaks are cut with the grain of the meat and across the grain; the former are tough and the latter are generally tender and juicy; they are cut from the part marked (5) in [Plate A]. In the cross cut rump steak there is a piece of tenderloin.

The aitch bone, number (8) in [Plate A], contains a large proportion of bone; if a large roast is cut, a portion of the rump and a part of the round is included, so considering the price, which is as many cents per pound as there are pounds, it is not an expensive piece as it can be used for a roast one day and made into a stew the next.

The round of beef as shown in [Plate C] is divided into the top and the bottom. The top is used for steaks and roasts. The first few slices are quite tender. The third slice is the best for steak as it has only one muscle. The farther down the leg the steak is cut the tougher it becomes. The bottom of the round must necessarily be tough because of the large number of tendons. It may be easily distinguished from the top as it contains two muscles. It is used principally for making beef tea or Hamburg Steak.

The vein is used for roasting or braising. The meat is usually stringy but of very good flavor.

The hind shin is used only for stews or soup stock. The fore shin contains less meat but is sometimes used for the same purposes as the hind shin. The pieces marked 12, 13, 14 in [Plate A] are usually corned.

Number (3) in [Plate A] is the rib roast. It contains five ribs, the first three ribs being the best part of the piece. Number (2) in [Plate A] is the chuck rib piece. This contains the shoulder blade and is consequently tough. It is best for stews or braising, although it may be used for roasting. The bones are frequently removed and the piece tied into a round roast, but at best it is tough although the flavor is good. The neck is used principally for soup stock, stews and beef tea.

PLATE E
NEW YORK CUTS

If we consult [Plate D] representing the New York cuts of beef, we find that the part marked (3) is called the Rib Piece. The thirteen ribs are left in this piece. It takes in part of what is called Sirloin in the Boston markets. In New York the ribs are cut much longer than in Boston and the price per pound is less, but as this gives a tough portion of the flank, the cost, in reality, is just as great. The part marked (4) is the sirloin and is used both for roasts and steaks. When there is a large piece of tenderloin on the steak it is called a Porterhouse Steak, but when there is only a small piece of tenderloin it is called Short Steak or Delmonico Steak. From this cut nearest the rump we get the hip bone, the flat bone, and the round bone steaks. There are three round bone steaks, which are generally rather inferior. The flat bone steaks are also three in number and better than the round bone steaks. The hip bone steaks are the best of these three and contain a small piece of tenderloin. The rump (5) is divided into two pieces, one piece having the hip bone and the other the backbone. It is generally corned. The round furnishes meat for steaks, which are of excellent flavor, but not very tender. It also makes a good piece for braising. The bottom of the round is a much poorer cut, it contains so many muscles and tendons. It is tough and so only suitable for stock or beef tea.

The Cross Ribs, number (12), make a good roasting piece. It is economical as it is solid meat, and it is quite tender as the muscles all run in one direction. The Shoulder Clod, number (14), has tendons running in all directions; it is consequently tough. It is used for Hamburg Steak or for any dishes which require long slow cooking. Numbers 9, 10, 11 and 13 are used for corning and numbers 8 and 15 are used for soup stock.

PLATE F
BOSTON CUTS

Lamb and Mutton

Lamb and mutton are divided into halves, or “sides,” by cutting the entire length of the backbone the same as beef.

The fore quarter is divided into the—

The hind quarter is divided into the—

The best lamb is from a creature eight to twelve weeks old. Lamb may always be distinguished from mutton by the inner redness of the bone. Mutton should have a large amount of white hard fat, and the flesh should be fine-grained and pink to red in color.

The strong mutton flavor may be lessened by removing the pink outer skin, and also by taking off the caul before cooking the leg.

Veal

Veal is cut similarly to lamb.

The fore quarter is divided into—

The hind quarter is divided into—

Other parts of the veal creature used as food—

The best veal is from a calf six to twelve weeks old. The meat should be pinkish white, fine-grained, and tender, and there should be a large amount of fine white fat on the legs and around the kidneys.

Pork

Fresh pork is not so popular a meat as corned or salted, although fresh pork from a pig which has been carefully fed before killing is a delicate meat.

The upper part of the fore legs, or the shoulders, and the upper parts of the hind legs, or the hams, are salted and smoked. The sides of the pork creature are salted and smoked for bacon.

The fat is removed from the loin and ribs, and these are sold for roasts or chops; the fat is pickled and used for salt pork.

The head is used for making souse and cheese.

The feet are sold fresh or pickled.

The brains, livers, and kidneys are also used the same as those of beef.

Poultry and Game

Poultry includes all domestic birds.

In buying poultry, select birds which have been freshly killed and hand-picked.

Pin feathers are found on young birds, and hairs on older birds. The birds should be short and plump, with considerable meat on the breast, fat, but not too fat.

Young birds have the cartilage at the end of the breastbone soft and pliable.

For roasting, buy poultry from three months to a year old. For braising, stewing, and slower methods of cooking, buy older birds, as they contain a larger proportion of meat than the younger birds.

Game includes animals that are hunted in field or forest.

Venison is cut like mutton. The meat is much darker than beef meat, and the fat is whiter; it is cooked in the same ways as mutton.

Birds are sold with the feathers on, but have the market man remove them. All game is expensive, and so is a delicacy. In buying game, that which has hung three weeks or more is considered best.

DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS

The Formal Dinner

A formal dinner generally consists of ten courses, but may be eight or twelve. In order to have one harmonious whole, the different courses must blend well with each other. Avoid repetition; if oysters appear in the first course, they must not appear again. Observe these two points particularly in arranging the table: first, have the table linen immaculate and without folds; and second, arrange the covers with mathematical exactness.

The table may be square, oblong, or round; it must be covered with a soft pad, and then with the tablecloth, which should hang over the sides of the table at least one quarter of a yard on every side.

The selection of guests for a formal dinner is extremely important, and the seating at the table so that all are congenial takes some time to plan. Name cards should be placed at each cover. Each gentleman should be given a card, on entering the dressing room, with the name of the lady whom he is to escort to the dining room, and the letters R or L, also on the card, indicating to the right or left of the hostess.

When dinner is announced, the host with the guest of honor leads the way to the dining room, followed by the other men with their ladies, and the hostess with the gentleman of honor brings up the rear. The guests all stand behind their chairs until the hostess makes a move to be seated; then the men push up the chairs for the ladies, each lady seating herself from the left of her chair.

The decoration of the table should be simple and low in design and in the center of the table. A small flower may also be placed at the right of each cover. Of course the colors of the flowers must harmonize with the china, but otherwise individual taste should be exercised.

The illumination of the table is most important. If candles are used, they must be so arranged as not to interfere with the guests, and the shades so placed that they will slip down as the candle burns. If candle light is insufficient, try if possible to have the lights come from the side rather than from above.

The Cover.—The place for each guest and the necessary plate, silver, glasses, knives, and napkin is called the cover.

Arrangement of Cover.—Allow twenty inches for every person. Place a ten-inch service plate, having decorations, right side up, in the center of this space, and one and one half inches from the edge of the table.

Arrange knives, edges toward plate, in the order in which they will be needed, beginning at the right. At the right of knives, place soup spoon, bowl up; at the right of soup spoon, the oyster fork, with tines up; the other forks, with tines up, at the left of the plate, in the order in which they will be needed, beginning with the extreme left.

If there are too many courses to admit of all the silver being put on at once, extra silver may be placed at each cover just before serving the course requiring it.

The glass for water should be placed just above the center of the plate, to the right, the wineglasses to the right of the water glass, in the order in which they are to be used. Place the napkins either to the left of the forks, or over service plate. They should be so folded as to hold a bread stick or dinner roll.

The name card is generally placed on top of the napkin or over the plate.

Serving the Formal Dinner.—The dinner maybe served from the butler’s pantry, having each course arranged on individual plates, and placed by the waitress, on the right side of the guest, with the right hand, and anything which is to be served with the course, passed on a tray to the left of the guest and low enough and sufficiently near to the guest, to be easily taken with the right hand. Served in this way, there is less interruption to conversation.

Or each dish may be so arranged on a platter or serving dish on a tray that the guest may easily serve himself. Served in this way, the waitress places plates before each guest before passing the courses.

At present the service plate is quite universally used; that is, the space in front of the guest is always occupied with a plate. When the waitress removes the course plate with the left hand, she places another plate with the right hand. In this way of serving, the tray, if used at all, is only used when the food is passed, not for removing dishes.

Removal of Courses.—When every one has finished, the waitress removes one plate at a time, beginning with the hostess or with the guest at the right of the hostess.

Before the dessert, everything not needed for this course should be removed from the table; if there are crumbs, they should be carefully brushed with a napkin on to a plate or tray. After this is accomplished, place the dessert dishes from the right. While the dessert is being eaten, the finger bowl, filled one third full of tepid water, with a slice of lemon or a geranium leaf or a flower in it, set on a doily on a plate, may be placed in front of and above the dessert plate. When the dessert plate is removed, the finger bowl is moved into the space. If fruit follows the dessert, the guest removes the finger bowl and doily from the plate and uses that plate for the fruit.

If coffee is served in the dining room, the finger bowls are not placed until after the coffee, but coffee is usually served in the drawing room.

Order of Service.—The guests on the right of the host and hostess are served first in the first course, in the second course the guests on the left, in the third course the second guest on the right of the host and hostess, and so on in rotation, so that no guest is served twice first. Some hostesses insist upon being served first. If the different courses are passed rather than served from the butler’s pantry, this may be a good plan, but otherwise there seems to be no reason for it.

MENU FOR A FORMAL DINNER

First Course
Oysters or Clams in Shells Brown Bread Sandwiches
Second Course
Consommé Croûtons
Third Course
Broiled Trout—Maître d’hôtel Butter
Cucumbers
Fourth Course
Croquettes or Sweetbreads
Fifth Course
Saddle of Mutton Currant Jelly Potatoes
Peas in Fontage Cups
Sixth Course
Punch
Seventh Course
Broiled Quail with Chestnut Purée Tomato Salad
Eighth Course
Bombe Glacé Sponge Cake
Ninth Course
Fruit and Bonbons
Tenth Course
Black Coffee

• Salted almonds and bonbons to be on the table all the time.
• Celery to be passed with oysters.
• Radishes or olives to be passed with fish course.

When and How to serve Wines

• Sauterne slightly cold with oysters.
• Sherry slightly cold with soup.
• Rhine Wine not very cold with fish.
• Claret slightly cold with entrées.
• Champagne very cold with poultry and meats.
• Burgundy a little warm with game.
• Burgundy and Champagne with salads.
• Port Wine or Madeira temperature of wine cellar with desserts.
• Cordials and brandies with coffee.

Courses

First Course.—Appetizers, cold hors-d’œuvres, eaten preliminary to the dinner, supposed to stimulate the flow of the digestive juices and create an appetite.

Second Course.—Oysters or Shellfish. Salt, pepper, cayenne, Tabasco sauce, and tiny brown-bread sandwiches are passed with this course.

Third Course.—A Clear Soup. Hors-d’œuvres, such as celery, olives, radishes, or pimolas are passed with this course.

Fourth Course.—Fish, boiled, fried, or baked; sometimes potatoes, and generally cucumbers or tomatoes dressed, are served.

Fifth Course.—Entrées.

Sixth Course.—The Meat Course, one vegetable besides the potato.

Seventh Course.—Frozen Punches or Cheese Dishes.

Eighth Course.—Game or Poultry and Salad.

Ninth Course.—Hot Desserts or Cold Desserts.

Tenth Course.—Frozen Desserts, Cakes, and Preserves may be passed with this course.

Eleventh Course.—Fruits.

Twelfth Course.—Coffee and Liqueurs.

The Informal Dinner

The hostess serves the soup, and the host the fish and the roast. Vegetables, sauces, and entrées are served from the side.

Either the host or hostess makes the salad, and the hostess serves the dessert and the coffee.

The cover is arranged the same as for the Formal Dinner.

The Formal Luncheon

The table may be covered or bare. If bare, use doilies for plates and glasses.

The arrangement of the cover is the same as for the Formal Dinner.

Lighter dishes are served for luncheon than for dinner; entrées take the place of the roast.

Soup or bouillon is served in cups. Fruit may be served for the first course instead of canapés.

The hostess sometimes serves the salad and the coffee, but it is better to have all serving from the side.

The Formal Breakfast

This really is the same as the Formal Luncheon except that men are invited with the ladies, and coffee is served throughout the meal.

The Informal Luncheon

Like the Informal Dinner except that the roasts are omitted.

When luncheon is announced, the first course may be on the table, and the dishes required for the remaining courses arranged on the side table.

Seldom more than three courses are served.

Tea, coffee, or cocoa are served throughout the meal.

BUTLER’S DUTIES

A butler is generally given full charge of the dining room, as well as of the other men servants.

He waits on the table at breakfast, usually alone; but if the family is large or there are guests present, he may be assisted.

He directs the washing of dishes and the cleaning of the silver. He prepares the salad. He attends to the bell, to the fires, to the lighting of the house. He makes and serves afternoon tea and sets the table for dinner.

He announces all the meals, serves the dinner, does all the carving. If he is assisted, he serves the principal dishes, and the assistant serves the vegetables and sauces.

He is responsible for the safety of the silver, for the arrangement of the flowers and fruits, and for the proper serving of the wines. He has full charge of all refreshments served in the evening and is responsible for the locking of the house at night.

He alternates with the footman or waitress in answering the bell in the evening.

GARNISHINGS

It has been said that “what appeals to the eye generally appeals to the palate.”

Use care and taste in serving; dainty service will make the simplest food most attractive.

Never allow any food which looks unsightly to be served. Toasted bread, burned on one side, may take away the appetite, but toasted a golden brown on both sides, with crusts cut off and then cut in strips and served in between the folds of a fresh doily, will appeal to the most fastidious.

Parsley is always used to garnish meats. Meats should be skewered into shapely pieces before being cooked, and served on dishes to display them well.

Steaks and chops should be trimmed before cooking, then broiled evenly on all sides—never burned.

Rib chops should be garnished with chop frills.

Slices of lemon, hard-cooked eggs cut in strips, chopped pickles, and parsley are used for garnishing fish.

Cold sweet dishes are garnished mostly with jellies cut in cubes, and candied fruits, red cherries, and angelica being the most popular.

Nuts and raisins are also used.

Ice creams are garnished with meringues and spun sugar.

Cakes are garnished with nuts and plain and fancy frostings put through a pastry bag and tube.

Whatever garnishing is used, avoid overdoing the matter; the simplest is always the most attractive.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

All measures in this book are level.

To measure a spoonful of dry material fill spoon and level off with a knife.

One half spoonful is measured by cutting one spoonful through lengthwise.

Table of Measures

Table of Proportions

PART II
RECEIPTS

PART II

CHAPTER I
FIRST-COURSE DISHES

Canapés

Canapés are made from white, graham, and brown bread, sliced very thin and cut in various shapes. They may be dipped in melted butter, toasted or fried. The slices may be covered with any of the following mixtures. Served hot or cold.

Anchovy Canapés

Cut bread in slices one quarter inch thick, cut in circles, dip in melted butter, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, spread with anchovy paste, and sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice.

Caviare Canapés

Cut bread in quarter-inch slices, cut slices four inches long and two inches wide. Fry in deep fat, or toast. Spread toast with caviare paste, sprinkle with a few drops of lemon juice and paprika. Garnish with finely chopped green or red pepper.

Cheese Canapés

Cut bread in quarter-inch slices, spread lightly with French mustard, sprinkle with grated cheese and finely chopped olives. Or brown in oven before sprinkling with olives.

Crab Canapés

Cut bread in slices one quarter inch thick, three inches long, and one inch and a half wide. Spread with butter and brown in oven. Mix one cup chopped crab meat, one tablespoon lemon juice, two drops Tabasco, one half teaspoon salt, a few drops of onion juice, and two tablespoons olive oil. Mark the bread diagonally in four sections and spread them alternately with melted cheese and crab mixture. Separate sections with finely chopped pimento.

Bacon Canapés

Cut bread in triangles one fourth inch thick, sauté in bacon fat. Spread with French mustard, cover with cooked bacon finely chopped, and sprinkle with finely chopped pimolas.

Ham Canapés

Cut bread in slices one quarter inch thick, then in circles. Sauté in butter. Spread with finely chopped ham mixed to a paste with creamed butter and seasoned highly. Sprinkle with finely chopped, hard-cooked eggs.

Lobster Canapés

Cut bread in one-fourth-inch slices; shape with doughnut cutter. Cream two tablespoons butter, add one cup finely chopped lobster meat, one teaspoon mustard, few drops Worcestershire sauce, few grains cayenne, and six olives finely chopped. Sauté bread in butter and spread with above mixture.

Salmon Canapés

Shape bread, cut one fourth inch thick, with a cooky cutter. Spread with butter and brown in the oven. Arrange around the outer edge of the circle finely chopped truffles. Next finely chopped white of egg. Next yolk of egg which has been pressed through a sieve. Then finely flaked salmon. Garnish salmon with a small sprig of parsley.

Just before serving pour over a few drops of olive oil or place a teaspoonful of mayonnaise on the salmon.

Sardine Canapés

Cut brown bread in circles, spread with butter, and heat in the oven. Pound sardines to a paste, add an equal amount of finely chopped, hard-cooked eggs, season with lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce. Spread on brown bread. Garnish each canapé in the center with a circle of hard-cooked white of egg capped with a teaspoonful hard-cooked yolk.

Tomato and Cucumber Canapés

Fry circles of bread in deep fat. Fry slices of tomato in deep fat. Place one slice of tomato on each circle of bread. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Garnish each slice with one slice of cucumber and hard-cooked white of egg cut in shape of petal, to represent a daisy.

Nut and Olive Canapés

Cut bread in crescents. Fry in deep fat. Mix equal quantities of chopped nuts and olives, with enough mayonnaise dressing to spread. Spread on fried bread, and garnish with small diamonds of pimentoes.

Tongue Canapés

Toast triangles of graham bread, spread with butter. Cut slices of cooked tongue in small pieces, mix with creamed butter to a paste, add two tablespoons capers to each half cup of tongue. Spread on bread. Sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and garnish with chopped water cress.

Clam Cocktail

• 1 pint small clams
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce
• 2 tablespoons vinegar
• 3 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon tomato catsup
• 1 tablespoon horse-radish
• 1 teaspoon salt
• few grains cayenne
• few drops Tabasco

Place clams in shallow dish after removing the black parts. Mix other ingredients. Pour over clams, and let stand for several hours. Serve ice cold in small glasses, as a first course.

The clams may be mixed with the sauce and served in halves of grape fruit, in lemon shells, or tomato cups. Set on a bed of ice.

Oyster Cocktail

Follow receipt for [Clam Cocktail], using one pint small oysters drained from their liquor in place of clams.

Shrimp Cocktail

Substitute one pint shrimps for clams, and proceed as for [Clam Cocktail].

Lobster Cocktail

• meat from 2-pound lobster
  2 tablespoons sherry wine
  2 tablespoons tomato catsup
  1 tablespoon horse-radish
  1 teaspoon salt
  few grains cayenne
  1 tablespoon chopped olives
  1 tablespoon lemon juice

Cut lobster meat in small pieces and place in shallow dish. Mix other ingredients. Pour over lobster meat and let stand one hour. Serve ice cold in cocktail glasses; just before sending to table sprinkle with powdered lobster coral.

Oysters on Half Shell

• 30 oysters in the shell
  6 teaspoons grated horse-radish
  ¼ teaspoon salt
  cayenne
  3 lemons cut in halves
  6 teaspoons vinegar
  1 tablespoon tomato catsup
  paprika
  parsley

Open oysters; loosen. Serve in shell on bed of ice, having the small ends of the shell point toward the center of the dish. Wash lemons, cut in halves, remove seeds, and serve one half in the center of each plate. Garnish with parsley. Mix horseradish, salt, vinegar, and tomato catsup, seasoned with paprika and cayenne. Serve in small glass dish and pass to each person.

Clams on Half Shell

Follow receipt for [Oysters on Half Shell], substituting clams.

CHAPTER II
SOUPS

SOUP ACCESSORIES

Browned Crackers

• 8 crackers
  salt
  butter
  cayenne

Spread crackers with butter, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and brown in oven.

Cheese Crackers

• 8 crackers
  salt, cayenne
  grated cheese
  butter

Spread crackers thinly with butter, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and cover with grated cheese. Cook in oven until cheese is melted.

Crisps

• 4 slices of bread
  salt
  butter
  cayenne

Spread bread with butter or dip in melted butter. Sprinkle with seasonings. Remove crusts and cut in long narrow strips. Brown in slow oven.

Rings may be cut from the prepared bread and browned in the oven. Three of the narrow strips may be inserted in each ring.

Croûtons

Cut bread one fourth inch in thickness, remove crust. Cut slices in strips, and strips in cubes. Dip in melted butter, brown in the oven or fry in deep fat.

SOUP GARNISHINGS

Cheese Balls

• ¼ cup butter
  ¾ cup flour
  ½ cup water
  ¼ teaspoon salt
  cayenne and paprika
  3 eggs
  ¼ cup grated cheese

Melt butter, add water, and cook two minutes; add seasonings and flour, boil until mixture forms in a mass in center of pan. Cool slightly, add eggs unbeaten, one at a time, add cheese, drop from teaspoon into hot fat, drain, and serve immediately.

Egg Balls

• 4 hard-cooked eggs
  1 raw egg yolk
  salt and cayenne
  1 white of egg
  flour or
  sifted cracker crumbs

Mash yolks of eggs, add seasonings, and enough yolk of egg to form a paste. Shape into balls the size of a walnut, dip in slightly beaten white of egg, dip in flour or cracker crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Drain and serve with soup.

Rice Balls

• 1 cup cold cooked rice
  2 tablespoons flour
  salt, cayenne, nutmeg
  1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
  1 teaspoon chopped parsley
  1 egg

Press rice through sieve, add flour, egg and seasonings. Roll in balls, allowing a teaspoon for each ball. Cook in boiling salted water until they harden on the outside. Serve hot with soup.

Marrow Balls

• 4 tablespoons marrow
  1 egg
  salt, cayenne, nutmeg
  soft bread crumbs

Cook marrow in frying pan, strain, beat, add egg, seasonings, and enough bread crumbs to make of a consistency to shape. Form in small balls and poach in hot water.

Fritter Beans

• 2 eggs
  1 teaspoon butter
  1 teaspoon lard
  4 tablespoons milk
  4 tablespoons grated cheese
  salt, pepper, cayenne

Melt butter and lard, add milk; when boiling, add flour and seasonings; cook two minutes, stirring constantly; add cheese and eggs, cool, drop from teaspoon into hot fat, drain, and serve with soups.

Noodles

• flour
  ½ teaspoon salt
  1 egg
  cayenne
  slight grating of nutmeg

Beat egg. Add seasonings and enough flour to make a stiff dough. Work on floured board until smooth and elastic. Cut a small portion and roll thin as a wafer. Cut in fancy shapes and cook in boiling salted water or soup stock twenty minutes. Serve hot in soups.

This paste may be spread on the bottom of inverted dripping pans and baked in a quick oven. Crease before removing from pan.

Noodle Balls

Use Noodle Mixture, allowing less flour, shape into round marbles, and cook in boiling salted water twenty to thirty minutes. Serve hot in soups.

Vegetable Cubes

• 2 egg yolks
  ½ cup beef stock
  1 whole egg
  ½ cup mashed peas
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  nutmeg

Mix yolks of egg, whole egg, peas and seasonings, add hot stock. Pour into buttered tin to the depth of one inch, set into hot water, and bake in slow oven until mixture is firm. Cool, cut in cubes, and serve in soups.

Chicken Quenelles

• ½ pound chicken
  2 tablespoons butter
  cayenne
  2 tablespoons bread crumbs
  salt and nutmeg
  milk
  1 egg

Chop chicken and press through a sieve. Soak bread in milk, press through sieve, add melted butter, egg slightly beaten, chicken, seasonings, and milk to make of the consistency to shape. Shape between two spoons, and poach in boiling salted water.

Fish Quenelles

• 1 cup fish
  1 egg white
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  ⅓ cup cream

Chop fish and press through a sieve. Add unbeaten white of egg and cream beaten until stiff; add seasonings, and poach in boiling water.

This mixture may be rolled in balls or shaped in teaspoons.

SOUPS

Brown soup stock is made from beef and vegetables, or from beef, veal and fowl, and vegetables.

Veal with onion and celery and seasonings makes white stock; or veal and chicken together, with celery, onions, and seasonings, are used for white stock.

Cream soups are generally made without stock, milk or cream being the liquid used, the foundation made from fish or vegetables.

Chicken Stock is made from fowl, resembles white stock, but not quite so rich.

The meats used for soups are the poorer parts of the creature—the shin, the round, the neck of beef, the knuckle of veal, and the whole bird of fowls.

A bouquet of sweet herbs is used for seasoning soups; it is composed of parsley, bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, thyme and marjoram.

Stock Soups

Skill, patience and good materials are necessary for the making of good soup. In order to draw out and dissolve the nutritive and flavoring qualities of meat, cut the meat into small pieces, cover with cold water, and let stand at least an hour, then heat very gradually.

For a rich stock allow one pint of water to each pound of meat and bone, having only one quarter pound bone and three quarters meat. One kind of meat may be used, or several kinds. If soup is made from remnants of cold meat, be sure to add a small amount of fresh meat to give added flavor. Remember that if the contents of the soup kettle are allowed to boil for any length of time, it will be almost impossible to secure a clear soup from the stock.

How to clear Soup Stock

Allow the white and shell of one egg for two quarts of strained stock. Beat the white, add crushed shell and the cold stock, pour into kettle, set over the fire, and stir constantly until the boiling point is reached; boil three minutes without stirring, then simmer for ten minutes, strain through sieve, then through a cheese cloth; reheat and serve. If these directions are followed, an absolutely clear soup will be the result.

To keep Soup Stock

When the stock is ready to strain, strain into several receptacles; a coating of fat will form on the top, which serves to keep out the air. This fat must be removed before clearing the stock. Stock with a coating of fat will keep a week in summer and several weeks in winter. If the weather is very warm, scald the stock, then cool quickly.

Asparagus Soup

• 1 can of asparagus or
  1 bunch of asparagus
  4 cups cold water
  3 tablespoons butter
  3 tablespoons flour
  2 teaspoons salt
  a few grains cayenne
  1 cup cream
  2 slices onion
  ¼ teaspoon white pepper
  2 cups milk

Wash asparagus if fresh and break off tips; break remainder of stalks into small pieces. Cook tips and stalks in cold water separately. When tender, drain; reserve water. Keep tips for garnishing soup. Press stalks through a purée sieve. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, add asparagus water, and thicken with flour and butter cooked together. Bring mixture to boiling point; add cream and seasonings. Pour over tips and serve.

Note.—If canned asparagus is used, drain, add water and cook in milk in a double boiler twenty minutes. Then drain and proceed as with fresh asparagus.

Artichoke Soup

• 1 can artichokes
  3 cups cold water
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups scalded milk
  1 egg
  1 teaspoon salt
  1 slice onion
  few grains cayenne

Cook artichokes and onion in water till tender. Drain, press through sieve, and return to water. Melt butter; add flour and scalded milk. Cook until mixture thickens. Combine mixtures, add seasonings, and just before serving pour on to beaten egg.

Bean Soup

• 1 cup Lima beans
  4 cups cold water
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  1 sprig parsley
  1 stalk celery
  2 tablespoons carrot
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  3 cups milk
  salt and cayenne
  1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  ½ teaspoon pepper

Soak beans over night. Cook beans, onion, parsley, celery and carrot in cold water; when tender rub through a sieve. Melt butter; add flour, milk and seasonings; cook five minutes. Combine mixtures and serve.

One cup stewed tomatoes added to this soup makes a pleasant variation.

Kidney Bean Soup

Use receipt for [Bean Soup], substituting kidney beans for Lima beans and adding one tablespoon vinegar.

Baked Bean Soup

• 2 cups baked beans
  2 tablespoons onion
  2 cups tomatoes
  2 cups water
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  salt, pepper and celery salt
  2 tablespoons chopped pickle

Cook beans in water ten minutes; press through a sieve. Cook onion in butter five minutes; add flour and seasonings. When well blended, add tomato, cook five minutes, strain, add bean mixture, reheat, and serve with chopped pickles.

If beans are very sweet, it may be necessary to add one to two tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar.

Cabbage Soup

• 1 small cabbage
  2 cups water
  2 cups milk
  3 slices onion
  4 tablespoons butter
  1 teaspoon salt
  ⅛ teaspoon pepper
  few grains cayenne
  2 tablespoons flour

Chop cabbage, add water, and cook until tender; press through a sieve. Melt butter, add chopped onion, cook slowly five minutes, add flour, scalded milk, cabbage mixture; cook five minutes. Add seasonings, strain and serve.

Carrot Soup

• carrots
  2 slices onion
  sprig parsley
  ¼ cup rice
  4 tablespoons butter
  1½ teaspoons salt
  few grains cayenne
  2 cups water
  2 cups scalded milk
  2 tablespoons flour

Chop enough carrots to make two cups. Cook in water until tender. Press through sieve, reserving liquor. Cook rice in milk in double boiler. Cook onion in butter; add flour and seasonings. Mix carrot mixture with rice and milk and pour on to butter and flour; bring to the boiling point, strain and serve. Garnish with chopped parsley. If this soup seems too thick, thin with cream or milk.

Cauliflower Soup

• 1 medium-sized cauliflower
  4 cups cold water
  4 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  2 tablespoons grated cheese
  2 cups scalded milk
  2 teaspoons salt
  2 slices onion
  1 egg yolk
  few grains cayenne

Cook cauliflower in cold water until tender; drain, press through a sieve, add scalded milk. Cook onion in butter, add flour; when well blended, add cauliflower mixture, seasonings; cook five minutes, strain, add yolk of egg slightly beaten, and cheese.

Celery Soup

• 2 cups celery
  1 quart cold water
  2 slices onion
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups scalded milk
  1½ teaspoons salt
  1 blade of mace
  cayenne
  celery salt

Chop celery; cook in water until tender. Cook onion and mace in milk twenty minutes; strain. Melt butter; add flour and seasonings. Combine celery and milk mixtures, thicken with butter and flour cooked together, cook five minutes and serve.

Note.—Pieces of celery not suitable for the table may be utilized for this soup. The leaves and root of celery make a very good soup.

Chestnut Soup

• 2 cups chestnuts shelled and blanched
  3 cups cold water
  2 cups scalded milk
  ⅛ teaspoon celery salt
  salt
  cayenne
  nutmeg
  2 tablespoons onion
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  1 cup cream

Cook chestnuts in cold water until tender, press through a sieve, and add scalded milk. Cook onion in butter five minutes, add flour, seasonings and chestnut mixture. Cook five minutes, add cream, strain and serve.

Note.—To shell chestnuts, make a cross on either side of the nut with a sharp knife. Put one teaspoon melted butter in dripping pan; add chestnuts and cook in oven until shells come off easily.

Cucumber Soup

• 4 cucumbers
  4 stalks of celery
  4 cups milk
  2 slices onion
  1 tablespoon chopped pepper
  4 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  salt and pepper
  cayenne and celery salt
  1 cup cream or rich milk

Chop cucumbers and celery; add onion and pepper; cook in milk in double boiler twenty minutes. Add flour and butter cooked together, and seasonings. Cook five minutes, strain, add cream, reheat and serve.

Corn Soup

• 1 can corn or
  6 ears of corn
  2 cups cold water
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  2 cups scalded milk
  1½ teaspoons salt
  celery salt and cayenne
  3 tablespoons butter
  3 tablespoons flour
  1 cup beaten cream
  1 cup popped corn

Cook corn in cold water twenty minutes. Press through a sieve; add scalded milk. Cook onion in butter, add flour and seasonings, corn mixture, cook five minutes, strain, add beaten cream, and serve. Garnish with popped corn.

Onion Soup

• 6 medium-sized onions
  3 cups cold water
  2 cups scalded milk
  salt and cayenne
  3 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  1 egg yolk
  2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
  1 tablespoon pimento

Chop onions, cook in two tablespoons butter five minutes; add water, cook thirty minutes, press through a sieve. Melt remaining butter, add flour, scalded milk and seasonings, cook five minutes. Combine mixtures, add egg yolks slightly beaten, Parmesan cheese and pimento.

Pea Soup

• 1 can peas
  2 cups cold water
  1½ teaspoons salt
  a bit of bay leaf
  3 tablespoons butter
  3 tablespoons flour
  3 cups scalded milk
  1 tablespoon chopped onion
  cayenne and celery salt

Cook peas, bay leaf, onion, and cold water twenty minutes. Press through a sieve. Make a white sauce of butter, flour, and milk. Combine mixtures, add seasonings, and serve.

Note.—Cold cooked peas may be used instead of canned peas.

Rice Soup

• 1 cup rice
  6 cups cold water
  1 small onion
  1 green pepper
  1 teaspoon chopped parsley
  2 cups cream
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  salt, cayenne and nutmeg
  1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Cook rice, onion and pepper in cold water until rice is tender. Press through a sieve. Melt butter, add flour, cream and seasonings; boil five minutes. Combine mixtures. Add parsley and serve.

Sorrel Soup

• 1 cup chopped sorrel
  1 pint cold water
  2 tablespoons butter
  1 cup milk
  4 tablespoons flour
  salt and cayenne
  1 tablespoon tomato catsup
  2 eggs
  1 cup cream
  2 slices onion

Cook onion and sorrel in butter five minutes, add water, cook thirty minutes. Cook milk and flour in double boiler twenty minutes, add cream, beaten eggs, catsup and strained sorrel mixture. Season and serve.

Spinach Soup

• 2 quarts spinach
  6 cups cold water
  bit of bay leaf
  1 teaspoon salt
  3 tablespoons butter
  2 cups milk
  1 clove of garlic or
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  cayenne pepper and celery salt
  3 tablespoons flour
  ½ cup cream

Cook spinach in water thirty minutes. Press through a sieve, scald milk with onion and bay leaf, add butter and flour cooked together, strain, add seasonings and spinach mixture; cook five minutes and serve. Garnish with beaten cream.

Squash Soup

• 2 cups cooked and strained squash
  4 cups milk
  2 slices onion
  bit of bay leaf
  3 tablespoons butter
  3 tablespoons flour
  salt and cayenne
  ½ cup cream
  2 tablespoons butter
  1 teaspoon Liebig’s beef extract

Cook onion in butter five minutes, add flour, extract, seasonings, and milk in which bay leaf has been scalded, cook five minutes; add squash, strain, add two tablespoons of butter and serve. Garnish with beaten cream.

Potato Soup

• 5 potatoes, boiled
  2 tablespoons onion
  2 tablespoons carrot
  ¼ teaspoon celery salt
  salt, pepper and cayenne
  3 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  1 quart milk

Cook onion and carrot in butter five minutes, add flour, milk, seasonings; cook in double boiler twenty minutes; add mashed potato, and serve after straining. One cup stewed and strained tomatoes or one fourth cup tomato catsup may be used to vary this soup.

Tomato Soup

• 1 can tomatoes
  2 slices onion
  2 sprigs parsley
  bit of bay leaf
  few gratings of nutmeg
  3 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  4 cups water
  3 cloves
  salt and cayenne

Melt butter, add flour. Cook remaining ingredients together twenty minutes. Press through a sieve and thicken with flour mixture. If tomato lacks flavor, season highly with Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco sauce.

Tomato Bisque Soup

• 1 can tomatoes
  1 quart milk
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  ¼ cup flour
  ¼ cup butter
  1½ teaspoons salt
  1 teaspoon chopped parsley
  ¼ teaspoon soda
  cayenne and celery salt
  6 cloves

Melt butter, add onion, cook five minutes; add flour, milk and seasonings, cook in double boiler twenty minutes. Cook tomatoes, press through a sieve, add soda. Combine mixtures and strain. Serve immediately. If tomato is very acid, it may be necessary to add more soda to neutralize.

Tomato Soup with Stock

• 1 can tomatoes
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons green pepper
  1 teaspoon lemon juice
  1 sprig parsley
  bit of bay leaf
  2 cups brown stock
  salt and cayenne
  2 tablespoons horse-radish
  ¼ cup cooked macaroni cut in rings

Melt butter, add green pepper and onion, cook five minutes; add tomato, horse-radish, stock and seasonings. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Simmer ten minutes, strain, add macaroni and serve. This soup unstrained would be a purée.

Turnip Soup

• 2 cups hot mashed turnip
  1 cup hot mashed potato
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 teaspoons salt
  ½ onion
  4 cups scalded milk
  4 tablespoons butter
  ⅛ teaspoon pepper

Mix turnip, potato and scalded milk. Melt butter, add flour, salt and pepper; when well blended add turnip mixture and onion cut in small pieces. Cook in double boiler twenty minutes, stirring occasionally; strain and serve.

Water Cress Soup

• 3 cups chopped cress
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  1¼ teaspoons salt
  1 cup whipped cream
  4 cups milk
  2 tablespoons flour
  1 teaspoon beef extract
  cayenne and Worcestershire Sauce

Cook cress, butter and onion together five minutes; add flour and seasonings. When smooth add milk in which extract has been mixed, cook twenty minutes, strain, serve and garnish with whipped cream.

Vegetable Soup

• 1 cup chopped carrot
  1 cup chopped turnip
  1 cup chopped celery
  ½ cup butter or pork fat
  2 cups chopped potato
  1 cup chopped onion
  4 cups milk
  salt, pepper, cayenne

Parboil potatoes ten minutes. Melt butter, add vegetables, cook ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Add milk and cook in doubler boiler until vegetables are tender. Season, strain, garnish with parsley and serve.

Black Bean Purée

• 2 cups black beans
  8 cups water
  4 tablespoons chopped pork
  3 tablespoons chopped onion
  2 tablespoons flour
  1½ teaspoons salt
  6 cloves
  ½ teaspoon mustard
  2 tablespoons butter
  1 hard-cooked egg
  1 lemon sliced

Soak beans over night, drain, add water and cook until tender—four or five hours. Press through a sieve; cook pork in a frying pan, add onion, cook five minutes; add bean mixture, melt butter, add flour and seasonings; combine mixtures, strain. Garnish with egg cut in slices and lemon.

A ham bone cooked with the beans is considered by many to be an improvement.

Split Pea Purée

• 2 cups split peas
  8 cups water
  3 tablespoons chopped onion
  1 teaspoon salt
  2 drops Tabasco Sauce
  4 tablespoons chopped pork
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups milk

Soak peas over night, drain, cook until tender. Cook onion and salt pork together ten minutes; add to pea mixture. Press through a sieve, melt butter, add flour, milk, seasonings, and cook five minutes. Combine mixtures, and serve.

Lentil Purée

Prepare the same as [Split Pea Purée], substituting one and one half cups lentils for split peas.

Potato Chowder

• 3 cups potatoes cut into dice
  ½ cup salt pork cut into dice
  ¼ cup onion
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  3 cups milk
  1 cup water
  1 tablespoon parsley
  1 teaspoon salt
  cayenne and celery salt

Cook salt pork in frying pan ten minutes; add onion, cook ten minutes. Put a layer of parboiled potatoes in kettle, cover with onions and salt pork, and so continue until all potatoes and onions are used.

Cover with water and simmer until potatoes are tender. Melt butter; add flour, milk and seasonings. Cook five minutes. Combine mixtures.

If potatoes are very old, it is better to parboil them before putting them with the onion.

Corn Chowder

• 1 can corn
  1 cup salt pork cut in cubes
  1 cup potatoes
  ½ cup onion
  salt and cayenne
  3 cups water
  2 cups milk
  1 tablespoon butter
  1 tablespoon flour
  ½ cup cracker crumbs

Cook salt pork in frying pan five minutes; add onion and cook until yellow. Parboil potatoes five minutes; add to onion with corn and water; cook twenty minutes. Thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together. Combine mixtures; add cracker crumbs and seasonings, and serve.

Succotash may be substituted for corn.

Clam Chowder

• 4 cups clams
  4 cups potatoes
  ½ cup onion
  ½ cup salt pork cut in cubes
  2 tablespoons flour
  1 teaspoon salt
  1 teaspoon Tabasco Sauce
  2 cups boiling water
  4 cups milk, scalded
  2 tablespoons butter

Remove heads from clams and chop. Parboil potatoes. Cook onion and salt pork together ten minutes. Arrange clams, potatoes, onion and salt pork in layers in the kettle; cover with boiling water, and simmer until tender. Thicken milk with flour and butter cooked together; add fish mixture and seasonings, and serve.

Fish Chowder

• 1 haddock weighing five pounds
  4 cups potato dice
  ½ cup onion dice
  ½ cup salt pork dice
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  4 cups hot water
  2 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  4 cups milk
  10 buttered crackers

Remove head and skin and cut fish into fillets. Cover head, skin and bones with cold water; simmer twenty minutes; strain. Reserve liquor.

Parboil potatoes ten minutes. Cook onions in salt pork until yellow. Arrange in layers, fish, potatoes, onions and salt pork; cover with water in which bones were cooked, and simmer until potatoes are tender. Thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together, combine mixtures, add seasonings, and pour over buttered crackers which have been previously soaked in cold milk.

Caution.—Do not allow onion or salt pork to burn.

New England Chowder

• 4 cups clams or
  4 pounds haddock
  4 tablespoons onion
  4 cups tomatoes
  4 tablespoons salt pork fat
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups boiling water
  salt, pepper and cayenne
  10 buttered crackers
  3 cups potato dice

Cook onion in salt pork fat until yellow; add clams or fish free from bone; simmer twenty minutes. Parboil potatoes, drain, and add to fish with boiling water. Cook until potatoes are tender.

Melt butter; add flour, tomatoes and seasonings. Combine mixtures, and pour over buttered crackers which have been previously soaked in cold milk.

Lobster Chowder

• 2 cups lobster meat
  ¼ cup onion
  ¼ cup salt pork fat
  2 tablespoons butter
  4 cups milk
  salt, cayenne, blade of mace
  1 cup hot cream
  2 tablespoons flour

Cook onion in salt pork fat; melt butter; add flour, milk and seasonings, and cook in double boiler with lobster cut in cubes twenty minutes; add strained salt pork fat, hot cream, and serve.

Crab Chowder

Prepare the same as [Lobster Chowder], substituting crab meat for lobster meat.

Shrimp Chowder

Prepare the same as [Lobster Chowder], substituting shrimps for lobster meat.

Salt Codfish Chowder

• ¼ cup salt pork fat
  2 onions cut in small pieces
  2 cups shredded codfish
  1 cup cream
  4 tablespoons butter
  3 cups potato cut in cubes
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  1 cup boiling water
  8 crackers buttered
  2 tablespoons flour

Soak codfish in cold water one hour; drain. Parboil potatoes ten minutes. Cook onions in pork fat, add drained potatoes, fish, and one cup of boiling water; cook until potatoes are tender. Melt butter; add flour, milk, cream and seasonings. Combine mixtures, cook five minutes, and serve with crackers which have been previously soaked in milk.

Clam Bisque No. 1

• 2 cups clams
  2 tablespoons onion
  bit of bay leaf
  3 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  2 cups chicken stock
  1 teaspoon salt
  pepper and cayenne
  2 cups hot cream
  1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce

Chop clams, and cook in stock twenty minutes. Melt butter, add onions, cook five minutes; add flour, strained clam liquor, cook five minutes; add seasonings, cream, and serve.

Crab Bisque

• 6 crabs
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons onion
  1 teaspoon salt
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups milk
  ½ cup boiled rice
  cayenne and blade of mace

Boil crabs in water to cover twenty minutes. Remove meat, add rice, and cook in two tablespoons butter five minutes; add onion, cook five minutes, and press all through a sieve. Scald mace in milk. Thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together; add seasonings.

Combine mixtures, reheat and serve.

Lobster Bisque

• 2 cups lobster meat
  2 cups boiled rice
  2 cups white stock
  ½ tablespoon salt
  lobster coral
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups milk
  pepper, cayenne and nutmeg
  2 tablespoons Madeira

Cook lobster, rice and white stock twenty minutes; press through a sieve. Thicken milk with flour and butter cooked together; add seasonings. Combine mixtures and thin with cream to desired consistency. Garnish with lobster coral pressed through a sieve.

Oyster Bisque

• 2 cups white stock or milk
  1 teaspoon chopped parsley
  blade of mace
  2 cups oysters
  1 cup cream
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  1 egg
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour

Cook oysters in white stock until edges curl. Strain, reserve liquor and chop oysters; press through a sieve; add butter and flour cooked together, seasonings and cream; cook five minutes, add to egg slightly beaten and serve.

Clam Bisque No. 2

Substitute clams for oysters and proceed as for Oyster Bisque.

Oyster Bisque à la Reine

• 4 cups oysters
  1 cup milk
  1 egg
  2 tablespoons butter
  salt, paprika, cayenne
  ½ cup cracker crumbs
  1 cup finely chopped chicken meat
  parsley
  dash nutmeg

Cook oysters in their own liquor until edges shrivel. Drain, reserve liquor; chop oysters. Melt butter, add cracker crumbs and milk. Cook five minutes, add seasonings, combine mixtures, strain thoroughly. Add beaten egg and chicken meat.

Bisque of Shrimps, Bretonne

• 1 quart shrimps
  2 tablespoons onion
  3 tablespoons butter
  2 cups white stock
  1 tablespoon carrot
  2 tablespoons celery
  ¼ cup chopped mushrooms
  salt and cayenne
  1 cup white wine

Cook shrimps and vegetables in butter; add seasonings, white stock, and boil five minutes. Press through a sieve. Add wine and serve immediately.

By adding one cup of cream and two tablespoons of butter a much richer and smoother soup may be made.

Bouillon

• 6 pounds round of beef finely chopped
  3 quarts cold water
  1 pound bones, cracked
  2 teaspoons salt
  1 teaspoon finely chopped red or green pepper
  1 small onion stuck with cloves
  ¼ cup celery
  ¼ cup carrot
  6 peppercorns
  2 cloves
  ¼ cup sherry
  2 tablespoons butter

Cover meat and bones with cold water; simmer four hours. Sauté vegetables in butter; add to stock with seasonings except sherry. Cook one hour longer, strain, cool, remove fat and clear. Add sherry and serve.

Brown Soup Stock

Is made like bouillon, with the addition of three sprigs of parsley, one sprig of thyme and omission of the sherry. If the stock is not sufficiently brown, add one teaspoon Kitchen Bouquet for each quart of stock, or one teaspoon of caramelized sugar.

Many prefer browning a portion of the meat before covering with cold water, to give color to the soup.

If this method is employed, use one quart less water.

St. Germain Soup

• 6 cups brown stock
  2 tablespoons onion
  1 sprig parsley
  3 tablespoons butter
  1 can peas
  bit of bay leaf
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  3 tablespoons flour
  2 cups milk

Reserve one fourth cup of peas for garnishing; cook remainder of peas, onion, bay leaf and parsley in stock ten minutes; mash through a sieve. Make a white sauce of butter, flour and milk; combine mixtures, cook five minutes, add peas, and serve with sippets of bread.

Consommé

• 8 pounds beef
  2-pound knuckle of veal
  1 small fowl
  ¼ cup carrot
  ¼ cup turnip
  ¼ cup onion
  1 tablespoon salt
  1 sprig marjoram
  1 sprig thyme
  1 bay leaf
  1 sprig parsley
  6 quarts cold water

Simmer beef, veal and fowl in water four hours; add vegetables, salt, and herbs tied in a bag; cook slowly one hour. Strain, cool, remove fat and serve.

Consommé is the foundation for all clear soups, each soup taking its name from the garnishing which is used.

Consommé with Barley

• 2 tablespoons pearl barley
  8 cups boiling water
  2 quarts consommé
  1 teaspoon salt

Cook barley in boiling water until tender; add salt, reheat in consommé and serve.

Consommé with Eggs

• 2 quarts consommé
  6 eggs
  4 cups water
  1 teaspoon salt

Poach eggs in salted water. Place in a tureen and pour hot consommé over them.

Consommé Claret

• 2 quarts consommé
  1 inch stick cinnamon
  3 egg yolks
  2 cups claret
  2 cups hot water
  3 egg whites

Cook cinnamon in consommé; add claret and hot water. Beat egg yolks; add hot mixture slowly to them. Cut and fold in the beaten whites. Serve immediately.

Vegetable Consommé

• 8 cups consommé
  2 tablespoons carrots
  2 tablespoons string beans
  2 tablespoons turnips
  2 tablespoons green peas
  2 tablespoons asparagus tips

Cut carrots and turnips in inch straws, add remaining vegetables, and cook in boiling salted water until tender; add consommé, reheat and serve.

Consommé à l’Italienne

• 2 tablespoons spaghetti
  4 tablespoons mushrooms
  2 cups consommé
  2 tablespoons butter

Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water; when tender, cut in rings. Cut mushrooms in slices and sauté with spaghetti in melted butter. Heat consommé, add spaghetti and mushrooms, and serve.

Consommé au Riz

• 8 cups consommé
  ¼ cup rice
  8 cups boiling water
  1½ teaspoons salt

Cook rice in boiling salted water until tender; drain, pour over rice six cups boiling water to wash off starch and separate kernels; drain, add hot consommé and serve.

Swiss Consommé

• 6 cups consommé
  ½ cup carrots cut in fancy shapes
  2 tablespoons butter
  ¼ cup turnips cut in fancy shapes
  1 cup celery cut in small pieces
  2 tablespoons cold cooked chicken
  1 cup roasted chestnuts cut in slices

Melt butter, add vegetables and cook until yellow. Cook in boiling water until tender, being careful not to overcook. Drain, add hot consommé, chestnuts and chicken. Season with salt and pepper if necessary.

Chicken Consommé

• 1 fowl cut in pieces
  4 quarts cold water
  ¼ cup onion
  ¼ cup celery
  1½ tablespoons salt
  pepper, cayenne and celery salt
  bit of bay leaf
  sprig of parsley

Cover fowl with cold water, bring to the boiling point, then simmer four hours; add vegetables and seasonings, and simmer one hour. Strain, cool, remove fat, clear and serve.

If all the stock is not needed at once, remove fat from portion required only, as fat prevents the stock from spoiling.

Chicken Consommé with Macaroni

• 2 quarts chicken consommé
  ½ cup cooked macaroni cut in rings

Reheat consommé and add macaroni rings.

Chicken Consommé with Custard

• ½ cup milk
  1 slice onion
  ½ teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
  salt, cayenne
  bit of bay leaf
  1 egg
  6 cups consommé

Scald milk with onion and bay leaf. Strain; beat egg slightly; add seasonings and milk. Bake in shallow pan until firm. Cool; remove from pan; cut in fancy shapes. Heat consommé, add custard and serve.

White Soup Stock No. 1

• 1 knuckle veal
  1 onion stuck with 6 cloves
  ⅓ cup celery
  water
  1 fowl
  ⅓ cup carrot
  1 tablespoon salt
  parsley
  pepper and cayenne

Break the knuckle of veal in small pieces; add cut and disjointed fowl and water, allowing one quart to each pound of meat and bone. Cook three hours, keeping below the boiling point. Add remaining ingredients; simmer one hour; strain; cool; use as needed.

White Soup Stock No. 2

• 6-pound knuckle of veal
  2 pounds chopped veal
  ¼ cup celery
  4 quarts water
  ¼ cup onion
  1 teaspoon peppercorns
  2 teaspoons salt

Break knuckle in pieces; add chopped veal; cover with water; let stand one hour. Simmer four hours; add vegetables; simmer one hour; add seasonings and strain.

The meat used in this receipt or in [ White Soup Stock No. 1] may be chopped and used for croquettes, soufflés, veal loaf, or hash, but as it lacks flavor, the dishes must be highly seasoned to be palatable.

White Soup

• 2 cups white stock
  2 cups cream
  salt and pepper
  1 cup cooked rice
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour

Make a white sauce of butter, flour and cream. Add white stock, cooked rice, seasonings; reheat and serve.

Chicken Stock

Cook a fowl in cold water to cover; add seasonings, strain, and use for stock.

Peanut Soup

• 2 cups shelled and blanched peanuts
  ¼ cup onion
  ¼ cup celery
  2 cups white stock
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  2 cups milk
  salt, cayenne, paprika

Chop peanuts in meat chopper. Cook chopped nuts, onion and celery in white stock twenty minutes. Melt butter; add flour, milk and seasonings; cook five minutes. Combine mixtures, strain and serve.

Mushroom Soup

• 4 cups mushrooms
  4 cups water
  4 cups chicken stock
  4 tablespoons butter
  3 tablespoons flour
  1 cup cream
  salt and pepper
  celery salt

Clean and chop mushrooms; cook in water until tender; press through a sieve. Melt butter; add flour, white stock; cook five minutes; add mushroom mixture, cream and seasonings; reheat, strain and serve.

Chicken Gumbo

• 1 chicken cut in pieces
  1 cup salt pork cubes
  ¼ cup onion
  4 quarts water
  4 tablespoons flour
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  1 cup cream
  1 quart green okra
  1 tablespoon chopped red pepper
  1 bay leaf, sprig of thyme
  4 tablespoons butter
  1 cup rice cooked
  1 clove garlic

Cook salt pork in frying pan five minutes; add chicken, and sauté a golden brown. Remove chicken; add onion, garlic, okra cut in slices, and sauté one half hour. Add to chicken and cover with boiling water. Add red pepper, seasonings, and cook slowly until chicken is tender. Melt butter; add flour and cream; cook five minutes; add chicken mixture. Serve garnished with rice.

Oyster Gumbo

• ¼ cup onion
  ¼ cup butter
  1 quart oysters
  4 quarts water
  1 chicken cut in pieces
  1 cup cooked rice
  1 tablespoon chopped red pepper
  1 quart okra
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  salt and pepper

Melt butter, add chicken, and sauté. Remove chicken; add onion, okra, pepper. Cook ten minutes. Add to chicken and cover with boiling water. When chicken is tender, add oysters and cook until edges curl. Melt butter, add flour, and thicken soup. Serve garnished with rice.

Crab Gumbo

Prepare same as Chicken Gumbo, substituting one quart crab meat for chicken and using the crab liquor.

Mulligatawny Soup

• 6 cups chicken stock
  ¼ cup onion
  2 tablespoons chopped cooked ham
  1 tablespoon carrot
  4 cloves
  1 teaspoon curry powder
  1 teaspoon chopped parsley
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  ½ cup cooked chicken
  2 cups tomato
  ½ cup green apple
  1 tablespoon tomato catsup
  ¼ cup boiled rice
  1 lemon sliced

Melt butter, add vegetables, and cook five minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except lemon, and cook one half hour. Serve garnished with lemon.

Green Turtle Soup

• 1 can green turtle
  4 cups brown stock
  4 cloves, 6 peppercorns
  bit of bay leaf
  blade of mace
  cayenne
  1 sliced lemon
  sprig each of savory, marjoram, thyme and sage
  3 tablespoons butter
  ¼ cup onion
  3 tablespoons flour
  1 teaspoon salt
  2 cups brown stock
  ¼ cup sherry

Separate the green fat from the rest of the turtle. Cut fat in cubes. Cook turtle and herbs in four cups of stock one half hour. Melt butter; add onion, flour, salt, cayenne and two cups stock; boil five minutes; add turtle mixture; cook five minutes; add fat cubes. Pour into tureen, and garnish with lemon; add sherry. Serve.

Terrapin Soup

• 1 can terrapin
  4 cups white stock
  4 tablespoons butter
  2 egg yolks hard cooked
  salt, cayenne
  blade of mace
  1 cup cream
  2 tablespoons flour
  ¼ cup sherry

Cook terrapin, stock and mace twenty minutes. Melt butter, add flour, cream and egg yolks; combine mixtures, add sherry, and garnish with rice balls.

Mock Turtle Soup

• 1 calf’s head
  1 teaspoon vinegar
  2 tablespoons onion
  2 tablespoons turnip
  bit of bay leaf
  6 peppercorns
  2 tablespoons butter
  3 tablespoons flour
  3 tablespoons Madeira
  ½ lemon, thinly sliced
  2 quarts cold water
  2 tablespoons carrot
  2 tablespoons celery
  2 sprigs parsley
  2 tablespoons chopped ham
  1 cup meat from calf’s head
  1 tablespoon salt
  2 cups brown stock
  1 tablespoon mushrooms

Cover calf’s head with cold water, add vinegar, vegetables, seasonings, and simmer two hours. Remove one cupful of meat. Simmer two hours longer. Strain; cool; remove fat. Brown butter; add flour, and brown; add brown stock, strained liquor, chopped ham, calf’s head meat, lemon, Madeira and mushrooms. Reheat and serve.

Should it be necessary to keep the soup hot, delay adding wine until serving.

Ox-tail Soup

• 2 ox-tails
  1 onion stuck with 6 cloves
  ¼ cup salt pork fat
  2 quarts cold water
  pepper and cayenne
  1 cup brown stock
  1 sprig parsley
  2 tablespoons carrot
  2 tablespoons celery
  2 teaspoons salt
  3 tablespoons Madeira wine
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour

Cut ox-tails at joints, add onion, and sauté in pork fat; add cold water, and simmer four hours; add vegetables and seasonings; simmer one hour. Strain; cool; remove fat. Brown butter; add flour and brown; add strained stock, brown stock and meat cut from bones. Reheat, add Madeira, and serve.

CHAPTER III
FISH

For convenience’ sake we divide fish into two classes—vertebrate and shellfish.

The freshness of fish is best determined by the odor. If the flesh of the fish is soft and flabby, the fish has been frozen, or has been kept too long.

Fish Fillets

Fish fillets are the flesh of vertebrate fish separated from the bone and cut into large or small pieces.

Fish Forcemeat

Is the flesh of fish finely chopped and pressed through a fine sieve before being cooked.

Fish Stock

Is the seasoned liquid in which fish has been cooked.

Garnishings for Fish

Parsley, lemon slices, lemon baskets, lemon slices sprinkled with finely chopped parsley, chopped red or green pepper, potato balls, olives, hard-cooked eggs, capers, and pickles cut lengthwise and spread to resemble a fan; mashed potato and mushrooms, cucumbers and tomatoes; [maître d’hôtel butter] and water cress.

Boiled Fish

• a 4-pound cod
  2 tablespoons chopped onion
  2 tablespoons chopped carrot
  1 sprig parsley
  2 quarts water
  1 tablespoon salt
  bay leaf and clove
  ½ cup vinegar

Wash and wipe fish. Cover with boiling water and add remaining ingredients; bring quickly to the boiling point, and keep just below the boiling point until fish separates slightly in flakes—about thirty minutes.

A fish kettle is the most convenient receptacle for cooking fish whole. If one is not available, use a piece of cheese cloth just large enough to cover fish and tie loosely with string.

All other boiled fish may be cooked in the same way as boiled cod.

STEAMED FISH

Steamed Salmon

Wrap four pounds of salmon in a piece of cheese cloth. Set in a plate in a steamer and cook until fish separates from bone—from forty-five to sixty minutes, according to thickness of fish.

All other fish may be steamed in the same way.

BROILED FISH

Broiled Mackerel

Wash and wipe fish; grease a wire broiler with clarified butter, lard, or pork fat. Season fish with salt and pepper, place on greased broiler and broil over clear fire, turning every five seconds. If the fish is a thick one, hold at quite a distance from fire until fish is cooked through, then hold nearer embers to brown. Separate, first skin side, then flesh side, with sharp knife from the broiler. Remove to hot platter, butter, garnish and serve.

FRIED FISH

Fried Smelts

Wash, dry thoroughly, and sprinkle smelts with salt, pepper and flour; dip in beaten egg which has also been seasoned with salt and pepper; drain and dip in flour, meal, or sifted bread crumbs.

The fish must be completely covered with egg and crumbs. Fry in deep fat, first testing fat with a crumb of bread, which should brown delicately in one minute.

Smelts may be cooked with their heads on, or the backbone may be removed and the fish rolled up in the shape of a muff, or they may be skewered in the shape of a ring.

When fried, drain on brown paper and serve on hot platter; garnish with lemon baskets filled with [Mayonnaise Dressing] and parsley.

Any small fish may be fried in the same way; large fish are generally cut in fillets, prepared and fried in the same way.

BAKED FISH

Baked Bluefish

Stuffing

• 2 tablespoons butter
  1 cup cracker crumbs or dried bread crumbs
  1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
  1 tablespoon chopped pickles
  1 teaspoon salt, few drops onion juice
  ¼ to ½ cup milk or water

Melt butter, add remaining ingredients, and stir lightly with a fork until heated through. If a dry stuffing is preferred, omit liquid.

Wash and wipe bluefish, stuff, and sew. Cut three gashes on either side of fish and insert a slice of salt pork in each gash (if desired fancy, pink the edges of the salt pork). Season with salt and pepper, brush with melted butter, and dredge with flour. Place on a greased fish sheet, or on two four-inch-wide pieces of cheese cloth. Set in dripping pan, surround with finely chopped pork; bake, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound; baste with salt pork fat. There should be sufficient in the pan; if not, try out an additional quantity of pork.

When the fish is browned on one side, it should be turned, basted and browned on the other. To avoid this turning, many prefer to skewer the fish in the shape of the letter S, and place as if swimming in the pan.

BAKED HADDOCK WITH OYSTER STUFFING

Oyster Stuffing

• 2 cups oysters
  ¼ cup butter
  1 tablespoon chopped parsley
  1 cup cracker crumbs
  salt
  pepper

Drain oysters; mix crumbs, melted butter and parsley. Season highly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle oysters with salt and pepper and mix with crumbs.

Remove head, tail and bone from haddock. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Stuff with oyster stuffing and sew. Place on fish sheet or strips of cheese cloth in baking pan, dot with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake, allowing twelve minutes to the pound, basting with melted butter, or after fish is stuffed, place in pan; cover with buttered cracker crumbs and baste.

Remove from pan to hot platter; garnish with parsley and pickles, and serve with [Tomato], [Hollandaise Sauce], or [Egg Sauce].

BAKED FILLET OF FISH

Baked Fillet of Halibut

• 2 slices of halibut cut from middle of fish
  salt, pepper, lemon juice, melted butter
  2 cups oyster stuffing

Wash and wipe fish. Place one slice on a buttered fish sheet, brush with melted butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with oyster stuffing. Place second slice on top of oysters, season, and brush with butter. Bake forty minutes, basting frequently with melted butter, turning pan often in order that the fish may be uniformly browned.

Remove to hot platter; garnish with potato balls, parsley, and lemon; [Hollandaise], [Tomato], or [Béchamel Sauce].

Finnan Haddie Baked

Wash the fish, put flesh side down in dripping pan, cover with cold water, let stand on back of range ten minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Place on platter, cover with milk, and bake twenty minutes.

SAUTÉD FISH

Sautéd Trout

• 6 medium-sized trout
  olive oil or melted butter
  cornmeal, salt and pepper
  2 tablespoons lard or butter

Wash and wipe fish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in olive oil, roll in cornmeal, and sauté until brown, and crisp in butter or lard. Drain on brown paper. Serve on hot platter, and garnish with lemon and cress. All kinds of small fish may be cooked in the same manner.

Deviled Fillets of Fish

• 6 fish fillets
  1 teaspoon mustard
  2 tablespoons lemon juice
  1 tablespoon hot water
  1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  ½ teaspoon salt
  ½ teaspoon paprika
  ½ cup cracker crumbs seasoned

Mix mustard, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, salt and paprika. Wipe and broil the fish, spread with mustard mixture, roll in crumbs, and broil until crumbs are brown. Serve hot, with [Sauce Tartare] or Tomato Tartare.

Fried Fillet of Sole

• 6 fillets of sole
  4 anchovies boned and skinned
  2 teaspoons lemon juice
  2 teaspoons butter
  ¼ teaspoon mustard
  salt, cayenne pepper

Prepare the fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper; spread with remaining ingredients blended. Roll fillets, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve on a napkin and garnish with lemon and water cress.

Fillets prepared in this way may also be baked in the oven with white wine, and served garnished with French fried potatoes and parsley.

Finnan Haddie Croquettes

Prepare fish as for [Baked Finnan Haddie]. Flake the fish, moisten with thick [White Sauce], season with Worcestershire Sauce. Shape in croquettes, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs, and fry in deep fat.

Planked Shad

• 1 shad with backbone removed
  4 tablespoons butter
  few drops onion juice
  1 tablespoon salt
  2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
  2 tablespoons Tomato Catsup or
  2 tablespoons white wine
  few grains cayenne

Wipe shad; place skin side down on oak plank. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; spread with butter. Cook in hot oven twenty to thirty minutes. Brown with a salamander. Spread with parsley and catsup or white wine. Garnish with highly seasoned hot mashed potato pressed through a pastry bag and tube. Also radishes cut in shape of roses, lemons cut in shape of crescents and dipped in chopped parsley, and sprigs of parsley.

Fried Whitebait

• 2 pounds whitebait
  salt, pepper
  flour
  lemon slices

Dry whitebait in towel; sprinkle with salt and pepper; dredge napkin with flour. Shake whitebait in napkin until each little fish is covered with flour. Dip frying basket in hot fat; cover bottom of frying basket with floured whitebait; plunge into hot fat; fry until a golden brown; drain on brown paper. Serve on napkin. Garnish with lemon and parsley. Brown bread is served with these fish.

SHELLFISH

Scalloped Oysters

• 1 quart oysters
  1 cup fine bread crumbs
  1 teaspoon salt
  ¼ cup butter
  2 tablespoons parsley
  2 tablespoons celery
  ½ teaspoon paprika
  1 cup cream
  ¼ cup wine

Clean oysters. Butter a baking dish; arrange a layer of oysters in the bottom of the dish. Mix butter and bread crumbs; sprinkle oysters with crumbs, parsley, celery, paprika, salt and two tablespoons of cream. Continue arranging in layers until dish is filled, having crumbs for the last layer. Just before baking, add wine and bake twenty minutes. Oysters are best baked in a shallow dish so as to have two layers of oysters only.

Scalloped Fish and Oysters

• 2 cups cold cooked fish
  2 cups oysters
  2 cups [White Sauce]
  1 cup buttered crumbs

Arrange fish, oysters and [White Sauce] in alternate layers. Cover with buttered crumbs and bake until crumbs are brown.

Oyster Stew

• 1 quart oysters
  1 quart milk
  4 tablespoons butter
  salt and pepper
  4 tablespoons cracker crumbs

Drain oysters from liquor; heat liquor to boiling point. Skim. Scald milk in double boiler; add liquor and oysters; cook until edges of the oysters shrivel; add butter, salt and pepper. Serve at once.

If cracker crumbs are used, combine butter and cracker crumbs and add to oyster mixture.

Oysters and oyster liquor must not be added to milk until just before serving, as the mixture is apt to curdle if the oysters are allowed to stand in the milk.

Spindled Oysters

• 1 quart oysters
  12 slices bacon
  salt, pepper
  6 squares buttered toast

Drain oysters from their liquor and dry between towels. Cut the bacon in pieces half the size of the oysters. Arrange the oysters and bacon in alternate layers on wooden skewers, being careful to pierce the hard muscle. Place in a hot pan and bake in a hot oven until bacon is done. Ten minutes should suffice.

Serve one skewerful on each slice of buttered toast. Many persons like the liquor of the oysters heated, strained, and poured over the toast just before serving.

Broiled Oysters

Look over oysters, reject shells, and dry oysters between towels. Dip in melted butter or olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat broiler; grease; arrange oysters on broiler; broil over a clear fire four to six minutes, turning often. Serve on squares or rounds of toasted bread spread with butter and slightly moistened with oyster liquor. Garnish with a sprig of parsley and one quarter slice of lemon.

Panned Oysters

Melt two tablespoons of butter in hot frying pan, add one pint of cleaned and drained oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook in hot oven until edges shrivel. Serve on hot buttered squares of toast with strained liquor from oysters. Garnish with finely chopped parsley.

Sautéd Oysters

Pick over, drain, and dry oysters; dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs, season with salt and pepper. Melt one tablespoon each of lard and butter in frying pan. When hissing hot, cover bottom of pan with prepared oysters and sauté until a golden brown on both sides. Drain on brown paper; reheat in oven if necessary. Serve on hot platter and garnish with parsley, lemon and [Sauce Tartare].

Fried Oysters

Fried oysters are prepared same as Sautéd Oysters except they are fried in deep fat.

Suprême Oysters

• 1 pint oysters
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons onion
  4 tablespoons flour
  ½ cup cream
  ½ cup finely cut chicken
  ½ cup chicken stock
  ½ cup oyster liquor
  salt, cayenne, nutmeg
  3 egg yolks
  parsley

Melt butter; add onion; when yellow, add flour; when well blended, add liquids and seasonings. Cook five minutes; add chicken, yolks of eggs beaten until thick and cream beaten until stiff. When thick, cool. Parboil oysters; drain and dry. Cover oysters with chicken mixture, dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Drain. Serve on hot dish and garnish with lemon and [Mayonnaise Dressing].

Clams

Clams may be cooked and served in all ways like oysters.

Steamed Clams

Wash and scrub clam shells; place in kettle; add water, allowing one half cup of water for each peck of clams. Cover kettle and cook until shells open. Serve hot with melted butter.

Kettle should be removed from the range as soon as shells open, otherwise clams will be overcooked.

Clam Fritters

• 2 egg yolks well beaten
  ½ cup milk
  1 tablespoon olive oil
  ⅞ cup flour
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  2 egg whites stiffly beaten
  1 tablespoon lemon juice

Combine ingredients in order given; let stand ten minutes. Remove clams from shell, cut off heads, cover with batter, and fry until golden brown in hot fat. Drain on brown paper. As clams contain so much water, only a few should be put into the fat at once.

Oysters in batter may be prepared in the same way as Clam Fritters.

Fried Scallops

• 1 quart scallops
  salt and pepper, 1 egg
  flour
  crumbs

Wash, drain, and parboil scallops. Season; dip in flour, egg and crumbs and fry in deep fat. Drain and serve with [Sauce Tartare]. Garnish with parsley and lemon.

Fried Scallops in Batter

Parboil scallops, and proceed as with [Clam Fritters].

Scalloped Scallops

• 1 pint scallops
  1 cup mushrooms, chopped
  2 tablespoons onion
  4 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  1 cup cream
  ½ cup scallop liquor
  salt, pepper, cayenne

Parboil scallops. Drain and cut in slices. Melt butter; add onion and mushrooms, cook five minutes; add scallops, cook five minutes; add liquids, cook until thick.

Place mixture in buttered baking dish or scallop shells; dot with butter; cover with buttered and seasoned crumbs; bake until crumbs are brown.

Lobster

To open a lobster: wipe lobster, break or sever small and large claws from the body. Separate tail from body portion by twisting and pulling at the same time. Remove meat from body portion carefully, picking edible portion from small bones. Reserve liver and coral if there is any; discard stomach, or “lady.” Meat from the body of the lobster is the sweetest and tenderest, but is often thrown away because of the difficulty in removing it.

Break the large claws, or if the shell is tender, cut with scissors and remove meat whole.

Crush the tail shell and remove the meat in one piece. Cut entire length of the tail meat and remove the intestinal canal.

The small claws are attractive for garnishing, and should be reserved.

Creamed Lobster

• 1 pint lobster meat
  4 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  parsley
  salt, pepper, cayenne
  2 cups cream
  1 red pepper cut in ribbons
  1 teaspoon lemon juice

Make a [White Sauce] of butter, flour, seasonings and cream. Parboil red pepper, add to sauce with lobster meat, reheat, and serve on rounds of buttered toast.

Scalloped Lobster

Use receipt for [Creamed Lobster] and bake in lobster shell, scallop shells, ramekins, or baking dishes, covered with buttered and seasoned cracker crumbs. Garnish with small lobster claws and parsley.

Deviled Lobster

Prepared same as [Creamed Lobster], with addition of one teaspoon each of onion juice, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, few grains of cayenne and a few drops of Tabasco.

Shrimps and Crabs

Shrimps and crabs may be creamed, scalloped, or deviled, like lobster, garnished and served in the same way.

Deviled Crabs

• 1 cup crab meat
  1 teaspoon chopped chives
  1 teaspoon mustard
  2 egg yolks
  salt, pepper
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour
  ¾ cup stock or milk
  1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
  buttered bread crumbs

Melt butter, add flour, mustard, salt and pepper; when blended, add stock; cook five minutes; add egg yolks, crab meat and chives. Arrange in crab shells or in ramekin dishes. Cover with Worcestershire Sauce and bread crumbs. Bake until crumbs are brown.

Crabs in Red Peppers

• 8 red peppers
  1 pint crab meat
  4 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  1 tablespoon onion
  salt, pepper, paprika
  mustard, cayenne, nutmeg
  1 cup cream

Parboil red peppers. Make a [White Sauce] with butter, flour, cream and seasonings. Add crab meat, fill peppers with crab mixture, cover with buttered and seasoned soft bread crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Broiled Live Lobster

Select a heavy lobster. Cut with a quick, sharp thrust the whole length of the body from the mouth down. Remove the stomach and intestinal canal; reserve the liver or tomalley and coral, if there is any. Crack large claws and place on greased broiler, inserting skewers between the sides of the lobster to keep it open. Place in oven for twenty minutes, then broil over hot coals about five minutes. Serve immediately, plain or with Deviled Sauce.

Curried Lobster

• a 4-pound lobster
  4 tablespoons butter
  1 tablespoon chopped onion
  4 tablespoons flour
  2 cups cooked rice
  1 cup cream
  1 cup stock
  1 tablespoon Curry
  2 eggs
  salt, paprika

Melt butter; add onion; cook until yellow; add flour, curry, liquid; cook until thickened; add eggs, salt and pepper, and coral, if you have it; strain over lobster meat.

Serve on a bed of rice garnished with parsley.

Lobster Suprême

Prepare the sauce as for Suprême Oysters, substituting two cups of chopped lobster for oysters.

Lobster in Red Peppers

Prepared same as Crabs in Red Peppers, substituting one pint lobster meat for crab meat.

Fried Soft-shell Crabs

Prepare crabs by removing sand bags. Raise apron; cut from crab; remove spongy substance surrounding apron. Wipe; season with salt and pepper; dip in crumbs, egg and crumbs; fry in hot fat about three minutes. Serve immediately with Tartare Sauce.

CHAPTER IV
MEATS

Meat is expensive; therefore every housekeeper should inform herself in regard to the different cuts in different creatures, and the prices of these cuts.

Various methods are employed in cooking meats; but this fact should be remembered, that all meat should be subjected to a high temperature for a short time, in order to sear the surface and shut in the juices, whatever method of cooking is used.

Tough meats should have long, slow cooking.

Dry meats, like the fillet, should be larded to give flavor.

As a rule, dark meats are more palatable and digestible if cooked rare, and white meats are considered better if thoroughly cooked.

Remove all meats from paper as soon as sent from the market. Set on plate and keep in ice chest or cool place until ready to use.

Never put meat in cold water, but always wipe with a damp cloth to remove any foreign matter, before cooking.

A description of the various meats will be found in the chapter on Marketing.

BEEF

Boiled Beef

The flank is one of the best pieces for boiling.

Select a five-pound piece; wipe; remove membrane, shape, stuff, tie, and skewer. Cover with cloth; place in kettle; cover with boiling water; bring to the boiling point, and cook just below the boiling point five or six hours, or until tender. Simmered beef would be a more correct term than boiled beef, but it is ordinarily known as boiled beef.

Season with salt one half hour before serving. Reserve liquor for making gravies and soups.

Boiled beef should have a rich, highly seasoned gravy served with it.

Braised Beef

An iron, or agate-ware kettle, with closely fitting cover, is absolutely necessary for perfectly cooking braised beef.

Select six pounds of round of beef, or any tough, inexpensive piece. Try out one cup salt pork cubes; add one cup each of chopped celery, carrot, onion and turnip. Wipe meat; sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Place meat on bed of vegetables and cook in covered kettle twenty minutes; add two pints hot water and cook slowly until tender, about four hours, turning meat and basting occasionally. It may be necessary to add more water, for there should be about a pint and a half when meat is cooked. Thicken gravy with four tablespoons flour, blended with two tablespoons butter, added twenty minutes before serving. A bouquet of sweet herbs may be added to improve the flavor.

Fillet of Beef

The tenderloin of beef is known as the fillet.

Trim into shape a fillet of beef weighing about four pounds, removing tendinous portions and veins. Tie and skewer into a pear-shaped piece. Lard top; sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Cover the bottom of a small dripping pan with cubes of salt pork. Set trivet on top of pork, and meat on trivet. Bake from twenty to thirty minutes in hot oven, basting frequently.

Serve with gravy made from fat in pan, flour and hot water. Same as receipt for [Brown Gravy], under Roast Beef.

Broiled Fillet of Beef

Cut slices about two inches thick from fillet. Shape in circles. Place on greased broiler and broil over hot coals from four to six minutes, turning every ten seconds. Serve on hot platter; garnish with slices of broiled tomato and brown [Mushroom Sauce].

Broiled Fillets of Beef with Oysters

Broil steak according to receipt; place on hot platter; sprinkle with salt and pepper; cover with oysters; dot with butter; and bake in oven until edges of oysters curl. Serve immediately, garnished with parsley and lemon.

Sautéd Fillet of Beef

Sauté steak two minutes. Mix two tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, one half teaspoon salt, one quarter teaspoon mustard, one tablespoon melted butter, and one tablespoon chopped pimolas. Spread on both sides of steak, dip in bread crumbs, and sauté until crumbs are brown.

Corned Beef

Wash beef; place in kettle; cover with cold water; bring to the boiling point, then simmer until tender; allow thirty-five minutes for each pound. Cool partially in water in which it was cooked; place in square pan; apply pressure and serve cold.

Corned Beef Hash

Chop beef; add an equal amount of cold boiled potatoes, chopped; season with salt, pepper and a few drops of onion juice.

Melt one tablespoon butter in an iron frying pan; add beef and potatoes and sufficient milk or hot water to make the mixture quite soft. Cover frying pan and cook slowly until a brown crust is formed. Turn like an omelet on to a hot platter. Garnish with parsley.

Roast Beef

Pieces used for roasting are sirloin, rib, back of the rump, face of the rump, and upper round.

Eight to ten minutes a pound should be allowed for cooking the meat moderately rare.

Wipe the meat; place on rack in dripping pan; dredge meat and pan well with flour, then sprinkle well with salt and pepper.

Cook in hot oven for fifteen minutes, until flour is well browned. Reduce heat and continue roasting, basting every ten minutes until cooked.

Baste with fat tried out from the meat. If that is not sufficient, add beef suet, beef drippings, or butter.

Avoid the use of water in the pan, as by its use the meat is steamed rather than roasted.

Serve with brown gravy, made by browning four tablespoons of fat from the pan, adding four tablespoons flour. When brown, add one and one half cups water or beef stock and cook five minutes.

Yorkshire Pudding

• 2 cups milk
  2 cups flour
  ½ teaspoon salt
  4 eggs

Beat eggs; add flour and salt, gradually; continue beating. Add milk and continue beating five minutes. The mixture should be perfectly smooth. One half hour before meat is done, pour this mixture into dripping pan under meat and baste when basting meat, turning pan that pudding may be golden brown throughout.

Yorkshire pudding cooked in this way is considered by many to be too rich. A very good substitute is obtained by cooking in hissing hot gem pans, thirty minutes.

Serve pudding, cut in squares, on platter around beef.

Spiced Beef

Wash and wipe six pounds of any inexpensive piece of beef; cover with boiling water; bring to the boiling point, then simmer until meat is tender, adding, the last hour of cooking, one cup each of carrot and onions, a bouquet of sweet herbs tied in a bag, pepper, and one half tablespoon salt. Remove meat and reduce liquid to one and one half cups.

Shred meat, add liquid, and press in bread pan, packing closely. When cold serve in thin slices.

Stewed Beef

Cut beef taken from the round in small squares; cover with boiling water, and simmer until meat is tender, four or six hours. Season with salt and pepper one hour before serving. Remove meat and thicken liquid, allowing one and one half tablespoons of flour for each pint of liquid.

Pot Roast

Wipe a six-pound piece of beef; put into hot frying pan, and sear until brown; then lard the upper surface. Place in tightly covered kettle or bean pot; add one cup of water. Cook slowly in oven until meat is tender, keeping only enough water in kettle to prevent burning. When nearly done, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve with a [Brown Gravy] made with water in the pan.

Beef Ragoût

Wipe three pounds from the flank or round. Cut into small cubes; dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Brown meat in hot frying pan, being careful to avoid burning.

Remove meat to kettle with close-fitting cover. Brown four tablespoons butter; add four tablespoons flour, and continue browning; add one and one half cups stock or water, one half cup each of carrot and onion; season with salt and pepper and simmer one and one half hours.

Broiled Beefsteak

Use a slice cut from the rump, round, or sirloin, cut one and one half inches to two and a half inches thick. Wipe meat; place on hot broiler, and broil over a clear fire from five to ten minutes, turning every ten seconds. Serve on a hot platter, spread with butter, and season with salt and pepper.

If there is a large amount of fat on the steak, be sure it is well browned before serving.

Beefsteak smothered in Onions

• 1 dozen small onions
  1 slice porterhouse steak, cut thick
  salt
  pepper

Heat a frying pan hissing hot. Put in beefsteak, searing first on one side, then on the other; cook five minutes; season with salt and pepper; add onions which have been cooked one half hour in boiling salted water. Cover and simmer twenty or thirty minutes.

Remove steak to platter, spread with butter, and season with salt and pepper. Season onions with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve around steak.

Hamburg Steak à la Tartare

• 1 pound round steak
  2 ounces beef suet
  ¼ cup chopped onion
  ¼ cup bread crumbs
  salt and pepper

Put meat and suet through meat chopper; add finely chopped onion, and season with salt and pepper. Shape in balls; roll in crumbs, and broil over a clear fire, or pan-broil. Serve on hot platter with brown gravy, [Tomato Sauce], or [Spanish Sauce]. Garnish with parsley.

VEAL

Roast Veal

Six pounds of veal taken from the leg, from the loin, or from the breast.

Skewer meat into shape; dredge with flour, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover top with slices of salt pork. Allow twenty minutes to the pound, bake in a hot oven, and baste every ten minutes with fat from the pan. If there is not sufficient fat in the pan, try out some pork on top of the stove and use that for basting.

Remove pork slices from top of meat one half hour before it is done, and brown.

A gravy may be made from the fat in the pan, same as [Brown Gravy].

Roast Veal Stuffed

Select a shoulder of veal and have the bone removed; stuff with same stuffing used for Baked Fish, adding one cup chopped mushrooms. Sew up stuffed meat and roast same as Roast Veal.

Veal Fricassee

Cut meat in small pieces, sauté in melted butter. Cover meat with boiling water and cook slowly until meat is tender.

Melt four tablespoons butter or pork fat. When brown, add one fourth cup flour browned, and four cups of water in which veal was cooked. Season with salt, pepper, onion juice and lemon juice.

Just before serving add one fourth cup cream, or two tablespoons butter.

Serve veal in center of hot platter and surround with hot sauce. Garnish with parsley.

Dumplings may be served with this fricassee, in which case it is ordinarily called a stew.

Veal Cutlets

Choose only the tenderest of veal for cutlets. Cut meat from leg, shape either in individual cutlets or one large cutlet. Cover veal with oil and let it stand one hour. Drain; cover with boiling water and simmer until tender, having only sufficient water in stewpan to keep cutlets from burning. Remove from stewpan; cool; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, dip in egg and crumbs, and sauté in pork fat or fry in deep fat.

Serve on hot platter with [Brown Sauce], [Tomato Sauce], or [Mushroom Sauce].

Loin of Veal à la Jardinière

• a 6-pound loin of veal
  1 cup salt pork cubes
  1 cup potatoes
  1 cup carrots
  2 cups green peas
  1 cauliflower
  1 cup onion
  4 tablespoons butter
  4 tablespoons flour
  salt, pepper and lemon juice

Remove the bone from veal; wipe meat, and season with salt and pepper. Roll and tie in shape.

Cook bones in water to cover, one hour. Melt butter; add vegetables, except potatoes, peas and cauliflower; cook five minutes. Try out salt pork; add veal, and brown.

Place veal in dripping pan; surround with pork fat, onion and carrot, and cook three hours. To the melted butter add flour. When well blended, add water in which bones were cooked.

Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Cook cauliflower, peas and potatoes separately in boiling salted water. Place cooked meat in center of platter, pour over sauce, and arrange vegetables in mounds around the meat.

Braised Veal

Use rule for [Braised Beef], substituting six pounds of the shoulder of veal.

Veal Chops

Wipe chops taken from the rack of veal; make an incision, and put in a few drops of onion juice, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Dip in flour, egg and crumbs, and sauté in pork fat until tender. Serve on hot platter with [Tomato Sauce] and parsley.

MUTTON AND LAMB

Boiled Mutton

Trim off the outside fat from a fore quarter or loin. Place in kettle; cover with boiling water and cook until tender, allowing fifteen minutes to the pound. Serve with [Caper Sauce] made from the water in which mutton was boiled. Reserve the remainder of the water for soup for next day.

Roast Mutton

The leg, loin, saddle, and shoulder are used for roasting.

Allow twelve minutes to the pound, if liked rare, fifteen if desired well done, basting every ten minutes.

To roast a leg of mutton, first remove the pink outer skin, as this contains the strong flavor. Never roast with the caul left on. The bone from the leg may be removed and the cavity stuffed and edges sewed; or the leg may be roasted without removing bone. In either case wipe meat, dredge with flour, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place on rack in dripping pan. Dredge pan with flour, and if the mutton flavor is desired, place pieces of mutton fat in the pan, or salt pork may be substituted.

Braised Mutton

Remove the bone from the leg or fore quarter. Stuff and follow rule for [Braised Beef].

Ragoût of Mutton

Use breast or fore quarter of mutton, or cold cooked mutton, and follow receipt for [Beef Ragoût].

Roast Saddle of Mutton