BETTER MEALS FOR

LESS MONEY

BY

MARY GREEN

NEW YORK

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

1917

Copyright, 1917,

BY

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY

PREFACE

With the steadily increasing cost of all staple foods the need of intelligent buying, cooking, and serving is greater than ever before: more money must be spent for food, or more consideration must be given to selecting and using it. For those who would continue to serve their households well, and whose allowance for food has not kept pace with prices, there is only one alternative, and that is, to use more of the cheaper foods, and to prepare and combine them so skilfully that economy shall not be a hardship. Good meals depend not so much upon expensive material as upon care and good judgment in the use of ordinary material. The time-worn boarding-house jokes about prunes and hash mean simply that these foods, in themselves excellent, are poorly prepared and too frequently served.

It is the plan of this book to include a variety of (1) recipes which require only a small amount of meat; (2) recipes for vegetable dishes which can take the place of meat; (3) recipes for the economical use of cereals, dairy products, and other common inexpensive foods; (4) recipes for breads, cakes, and desserts requiring only a small amount of butter and eggs; and (5) recipes for a few relishes, condiments, and other accessories which lend variety and interest. The General Suggestions for Economy (Chapter I) are not all new, but are liable, through disuse, to be forgotten by the present generation. Spasmodic economy counts for little in the long run; only systematic and continued watchfulness is really worth while.

Economy, however, ought not to necessitate the total elimination of one's favorite cuts of steak, nor all of the little luxuries, because by the skilful planning of the majority of the meals the occasional use of these luxuries can be made possible.

This book is not intended as a complete guide to cookery; it presupposes an elementary knowledge of the care and preparation of food.

The study of Tables D and E in the Appendix is especially recommended as an aid to the better understanding of food values.

M. G.

CONTENTS

Before using recipes see Special Notice on Page 14.

CHAPTER I

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS FOR ECONOMY

PLANNING MEALS

In order to buy, prepare, and serve food to the best possible advantage, an elementary knowledge of the composition and nutritive value of foods, and the necessary food requirement of the family, is essential. Many books are published on these subjects, but from the government publications alone (see page 255) an excellent working knowledge may be obtained. Only the merest outline can be given here, and this should be supplemented by further reading.

Briefly stated, food is divided into three chief classes:[1] (1) Protein, which builds and repairs the tissues.[2] It is furnished chiefly by meats, fish, cheese, milk, eggs, cereals, and legumes. (2) Fats, which furnish heat and energy, but are chiefly valuable for storing a reserve supply of fat in the body. They are furnished largely by butter, cream, olive and similar vegetable oils, bacon and other fat meats. (3) Carbohydrates, which furnish heat and energy. They are supplied chiefly by potatoes and other vegetables, cereals, fruits, and sugars.

People who are eating the proper amount and kind of food should approximate the normal weight[3] for their sex, age, and height. For the proper maintenance of the body, a man of average height and weight, of sedentary life,[4] requires daily food which will yield about 2,500 calories;[5] a woman of average height and weight, about 2,300 calories (more or less according to activity). Children between two and five years require from 1,200 to 1,400 calories; between five and ten years, from 1,400 to 1,900 calories; and from ten to fourteen years, from 1,900 to 2,500 calories. Girls between fourteen and seventeen years require from 2,200 to 2,600 calories; and boys between fourteen and seventeen years, from 2,500 to 3,000 calories. Of the total number of calories furnished ten per cent. should be protein, approximately 30 per cent. fat, and 60 per cent. carbohydrates.

Before planning meals the consideration of these caloric requirements and the study of the "Caloric Value of Average Portions of Food" (Table D, page 245) and of the "Fuel Value of Raw Materials" (Table E, page 250) will help in the selection of foods to yield approximately the desired amount of nutrition. It is not necessary or desirable that the exact amount of each class of foods should be reckoned daily; but by the general study of foods and their nutritive value, and the food requirements of the body, which vary with age, sex, and conditions, the housekeeper may serve her family with the kinds and amount of food best suited to their needs. She should plan to use in a week as large a variety of food as possible, and to avoid an excess of any one class. With a definite idea of the needs of the family, she should take account of the stock in the ice-box and pantry, and see that every bit of food is utilized to advantage. Meals should be planned in detail at least one day in advance, and, if possible, outlined for several days ahead; though these plans must, of course, be varied slightly, at times, according to the amount of left-over material and the exigencies of supply and demand. Each day's programme should be plainly written; any special recipes to be used noted; and a list made of supplies to be ordered. To have the meals planned well in advance and the order list ready saves a deal of nervous energy, time, and money.

MARKETING

If possible, attend personally to your marketing and consider carefully the quality, quantity, and cost of your purchases in relation to the needs of your purse and your household. Ask for what you want, and try hard to get it; but in trying to buy supplies at lowest prices be sure that the time and nervous energy spent are not out of proportion to the amount of money saved.

MEAT

In considering the price of meat, the amount of bone, fat, gristle, and so forth should be taken into account. Many of the coarser and cheaper parts contain as much nutriment as the more expensive cuts, and can, by proper cooking, be made fully as palatable. See that every bit of left-over meat is used to advantage and in a variety of ways; the rinds of bacon and salt pork when cooked with spinach or other greens, or in soups of peas or beans, add both flavor and richness.

THE STOCK POT

All trimmings and bones, both cooked and uncooked, and any left-over bits of meat or gravy that are not needed for other dishes, should be put into the stock pot, covered with cold water, and simmered (not boiled) with soup vegetables and savory herbs for three or four hours. Almost any left-over vegetable can be added, including macaroni, rice, and the scrapings of the cereal cooker. If the family is small, the cereal cooker itself makes an excellent stock pot: to the remnants of breakfast cereal, add any soup material at hand; cover with cold water; cook slowly; strain; and, if necessary, add one or two bouillon cubes, and a few drops of kitchen bouquet. When soup stock is lacking in richness a small amount of gelatine improves the quality.

The water in which vegetables, macaroni, rice, or any meats, either fresh or salt, are cooked contains valuable mineral matter as well as flavor, and should be added wholly or in part to the stock pot. Order corned meats lightly salted so that all of the stock may be used. Be sure that all fat is removed from soup stock before using. Do not serve greasy soups. When stock must be used before the fat has had time to harden, skim off as much as possible, and remove what remains with clean blotting paper, or a lump of ice wrapped in cheesecloth.

FISH

Fresh fish is offered in variety at all seasons of the year, and is a valuable and comparatively inexpensive food; salted and smoked fish contain much protein in a concentrated form; the canned varieties are important, too, especially for the emergency shelf, as they furnish a substantial, inexpensive food which can be served in many ways at short notice.

GROCERIES

Groceries in sealed packages are, as a rule, slightly more expensive than those sold in bulk; but they are cleaner, often fresher, and more convenient to store and use.

BUTTER AND OTHER SHORTENING

To the taste of the average person, there is no real equivalent for the flavor of fine creamery butter, but, for cooking, excellent results may be obtained by the use of cheaper shortening, beginning with the common household fats which are so often discarded. All drippings from the roasts and fat from boiled meats should be carefully strained and saved; beef and chicken fat may be used in many recipes, including those for cookies, cakes, meat sauces, soups, and made dishes; bacon fat is excellent for corn cake, meat sauces, and soups of peas, beans, or lentils; sausage fat may be used for gingerbread, cookies, poultry stuffing, and also for frying potatoes and other vegetables, for in these the spicy flavoring is not objectionable. Both bacon and sausage fat and that from soup stock are useful for basting lean roasts, fish, or meat loaf. Any surplus fat, including that of lamb and mutton, should be clarified and added to that in the frying kettle. Fat which cannot be utilized for cooking should be made into kitchen soap.

COOKING FATS—OILS

There are many excellent brands of wholesome cooking fats and oils on the market, including peanut, corn, and cottonseed oil, and compound vegetable fats. Almost any of these costs less than butter.

OLEOMARGARINE

The best oleomargarine is wholesome and economical, and much to be preferred to inferior grades of butter.

MILK

Milk, even at present prices, gives good return in food value. Unsweetened evaporated milk, which is absolutely sterile and clean, costs no more, and in some places costs less, than fresh milk, and can be used to advantage to supplement the supply. Because of its consistency it is an excellent substitute for cream in frozen desserts.

CREAM

When eggs are relatively cheaper than cream, the stiffly beaten white of an egg may be used to advantage to mix with beaten cream. Thin cream whipped with a whip churn is lighter and less expensive than heavy cream beaten.

EGGS

Unless the winter's supply of eggs has been preserved in water glass, guaranteed cold storage eggs will be found satisfactory, and much cheaper than hennery eggs. Only enough for a few days should be bought at a time, however, and they should be kept in a cold place until used. Wash eggs before breaking, and save the shells for clearing boiled coffee, soup, and aspic. For coating croquettes, dilute each beaten egg with one-fourth cup of water or one-third cup of milk; cover unused yolks with water to prevent drying, and pour off water before using. Have both yolk and white of egg cold, so that they may be beaten more quickly; add a pinch of salt to whites of eggs which are to be beaten stiff, and beat in a current of air. Soft-boiled or dropped eggs not used at table should be put back in boiling water, cooked hard, and used for garnishing, egg sauce, etc.

CHEESE

Cheese is nutritious and, even at present prices, economical, as it contains a large proportion of protein in concentrated form. It can be successfully combined with many other foods, and every left-over bit should be so used; when partly dry it should be put through the food chopper, using a fine cutter; when very dry it should be grated and used in sauces, soufflés, soups, and many other dishes. Cheese is more readily digested if a pinch of baking soda is cooked with it. To keep cheese moist and fresh, brush the cut surface with melted paraffin. Save left-over Welsh rarebit for sandwich filling. The shells of Edam or pineapple cheeses should not be thrown away, but be filled with creamed macaroni, spaghetti, or rice, covered with crumbs, and baked in a hot oven.

FRESH VEGETABLES

A variety of vegetables should be served daily, and those which contain a large amount of protein, such as beans, lentils, and peas, should be used not only as an accompaniment to meat, but, in combination with other vegetables, sauces, bacon or other fats, as the substantial dish of the meal.

DRIED VEGETABLES

Dried vegetables should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours or longer, and then cooked slowly until tender; dried julienne should be soaked for twenty-four hours before cooking.

MACARONI, NOODLES, RICE, CEREALS

Macaroni, noodles and similar pastas, rice, and the cereals furnish much nutriment at low cost; oatmeal and corn meal are among our cheapest foods.

Ready cooked cereals, though they are convenient and give variety to the diet, are more expensive than raw cereals well cooked; not only do they yield less food value, but, being dry, they require more cream or milk to make them palatable.

LEFT-OVER VEGETABLES

Left-over vegetables and cereals, even in small quantities, should be saved for use in entrées, desserts, salads, sauces, and soups. Celery tops should be saved for flavoring and garnishing, the root stalk chopped and added to the stock pot, and the outside stalks stewed, creamed, or used for cream soup. The outside leaves of lettuce should be shredded for salad, or, for any large quantity, cooked the same as spinach.

CANNED VEGETABLES

The flavor of canned vegetables is improved if, before being cooked, they are rinsed with cold water and exposed to the air. Parsley and chives may be kept growing in pots in the kitchen window to be used as needed.

SALADS

Salads should be freely used at all seasons, and be made light or nourishing according to the foods served with them. They offer an opportunity to the housekeeper to exercise her ingenuity in combining various vegetables, meats, and fruits, especially left-over bits. Crisp white cabbage, shredded, may be used in place of celery.

SALAD DRESSINGS

Salad dressings need not necessarily be made of olive oil, for there are other good and less expensive vegetable oils well worth using, and many of the cooked salad dressings without oil are excellent.

BREAD

Various kinds of bread should be freely used, especially whole wheat and other cereal breads, and those containing raisins, dates, and prunes. Watch the bread-box, and see that every bit of bread is used in some way; the unused crusts should be dried, rolled, sifted, and kept in a covered jar for stuffing, crumbing croquettes, brown bread, puddings, or other dishes in which the color is not objectionable; cold toast or cut slices should be made into croutons, or used for canapés or French toast; other pieces should be used for croustades, or made into crumbs, both coarse and fine, for use in fondues, griddle cakes, omelets, sauces, and soups. Bits of crackers should be dried, rolled, and used the same as bread crumbs.

CAKE

None of the recipes for cake require more than two eggs; many, only one; and some, none at all. Water may always be used in place of milk, and any clean, fresh shortening may be substituted for butter, especially in the recipes which include molasses and spices. These cakes will not keep moist like richer cakes, however, and should be used soon after making.

Slices of stale cake and crumbs should be utilized in making other desserts in combination with custards, ices, preserves, etc.

BAKING POWDER

Do not use more baking powder than is necessary for good results; two level teaspoons to each cup of flour is the usual allowance, but one and one-half teaspoons each to each cup will be sufficient if the muffins, biscuits, or cake are quickly and lightly handled and properly baked.

FLAVORING EXTRACTS

When volatile flavoring extracts are used in cake, much of their strength is wasted during baking; grated rind or spices could well be used in their place, or only the icing or filling flavored. All desserts, whenever practicable, should be flavored when cold.

COLORING

The small package of red coloring which comes with gelatine is useful for coloring cakes, icings, and other desserts as well as jellies.

FRUITS

Fruits, either fresh, dried, or preserved, should be served at least once a day; dried fruits, such as apricots, peaches, and prunes, should be soaked in cold water for twelve hours or longer and then cooked slowly until tender. Raisins, dates, and figs yield a large food value at comparatively low cost. Bananas, which contain more nutriment than most fresh fruits, should be used for salads or desserts when the other courses are light. In cooking acid fruits, such as cranberries, plums, and cherries, less sugar is required if added after cooking. Parings and cores from quinces and apples can be made into excellent jelly; the rinds of watermelons are the foundation of a delicious sweet pickle; orange and grape fruit peel, when candied, are well worth the trouble of making. Surplus orange, lemon, and grape fruit peels, when dried, are not only useful for flavoring, but make an interesting and aromatic fuel for the fire-place; the nut meat found in prune stones tastes much like that of bitter almonds and can be used in place of them.

When making jelly remember that the pulp of the fruit after the juice has dripped from it may be made into excellent marmalade: cover with water, heat to boiling point, press through a sieve, add three-quarters of the amount of sugar, and cook until thick.

CANDIES

In spite of its cost, candy is now classed by many with the necessities rather than with the luxuries. After a little practice even the most elaborate candies can be successfully made at home, and the difference between the cost of a pound of the best ready-made candy and the cost of the raw materials is astonishing. For those who can spare the time, candy-making will prove both fascinating and economical. Recipes for a few after-dinner candies are given.

CONDIMENTS

A small supply of condiments and relishes, including kitchen bouquet, ketchup, and sweet herbs, and one or two table sauces, should be kept in stock, as they make possible a greater variety of flavors. Many home-made sauces and relishes can be easily and quickly prepared and are usually much cheaper than the ready-made varieties.

CANDLE STUBS

Candle stubs should be melted, strained through cheesecloth, and used for sealing ketchup, jellies, and preserves.

GARNISHINGS

Any dish, attractively garnished and served, pleases the eye, stimulates the appetite, and often lifts a simple meal out of the commonplace. Parsley, mint, celery tops, red and green peppers, olives, pickles, capers, cooked beets and carrots, hard-cooked egg, lemon cut in various shapes, nuts, cherries, and other small fruits are all effective if not too lavishly used.

UTENSILS

A reasonable equipment of kitchen utensils and a convenient, systematic arrangement of them will save time and strength. Kitchen scales are almost indispensable, and a cooking thermometer eliminates guesswork, especially in boiling sugar and heating fat for frying. Pans, molds, and cutters of various shapes prevent monotony; suitable baking dishes and covered casserole dishes simplify both cooking and serving; and food cooked or served in individual dishes is often more attractive. When the cogs of the egg beater slip, do not discard it, but tighten the rivet; keep knives well sharpened. Cream jars, jugs, bottles, or any other containers for which a charge is made, should be promptly returned to be credited.

FUEL

Do not waste fuel; concentrate your cooking; when a hot oven is needed for roasting meat or baking bread, plan to cook at the same time other things which require a high temperature; potatoes can be cooked in the pan with the meat; other vegetables and fruits can be cooked in the oven; and if a coal fire is used, a variety of food can be cooked in a steamer on top of the range without extra fuel.

Have the ashes sifted and save the cinders, which yield a quick top heat.

Economize gas by using the minimum amount necessary to keep food cooking at the desired temperature. When the boiling point is reached a small supply of gas will maintain the temperature.

Fireless cookers save much fuel and unnecessary heat, and are especially useful for any food which requires long, slow cooking, or for those foods of strong odor which so often scent up the whole house.

SPECIAL NOTICE

All ingredients in these recipes should be measured level, and the standard teaspoon, tablespoon, and half-pint measuring cup should be used.

Unless otherwise stated, one apple, onion, orange, etc., means one of medium size.

Sift flour before measuring, and fill cup lightly. Use pastry flour, unless otherwise directed, for thickening soups and sauces, and in all recipes where baking powder is used; use bread flour in all recipes where yeast is used.

The majority of these recipes are planned to serve four persons; those for chowders and other dishes which form the substantial part of the meal are sufficient for second helpings; those for cakes, muffins, and other breads are large enough to be served more than once.

CHAPTER II

COMMON WAYS OF COOKING FOOD

Baking is cooking in confined heat in the oven. Examples: bread, cake, meat. This method when applied to meat is commonly called roasting. Before baking, see that the oven is clean and heated to the desired temperature.

Boiling is cooking by immersion in water at 212° F. Examples: potatoes, cabbage, macaroni.

Braising is a combination of stewing on the top of the range, and baking in the oven, with or without vegetables. Examples: tough meats, fowl, whole liver.

Broiling or Grilling is cooking over or under direct heat, as over glowing coals or under a gas flame. Examples: steak, chops.

Fricasseeing is commonly a combination of stewing and sautéing. Examples: fowl, forequarter of lamb or veal.

Frying is cooking by immersion in hot deep fat. Examples: doughnuts, croquettes.

Pan-baking or Pan-broiling is cooking in a lightly greased or ungreased hot frying pan or griddle. Examples: steak, English muffins, griddle cakes.

Pot Roasting is cooking in an iron kettle or earthen pot in a small amount of water, after meat has been quickly browned in a small amount of fat in the frying pan or kettle. Cook slowly until very tender, with or without vegetables.

Roasting is cooking before an open fire. This method is seldom used in small households, although the baking of meats is commonly called roasting.

Sautéing is cooking in a small amount of fat in a shallow pan on top of range. Examples: sliced fish, meat, potatoes, eggs.

Simmering is cooking in liquid at 185° F. The bubbles should always be below the surface. Examples: ham, corned beef, soups.

Steaming. Dry Steaming is cooking by heat of steam, as in double boiler or tin, over or surrounded by boiling water. Examples: rice, brown bread. Moist Steaming is cooking by direct contact with steam as in a steamer or colander, over boiling water, closely covered. Examples: fowl, puddings, dumplings.

Stewing is cooking slowly in a small amount of water (about 160° F.) until food is very tender. Examples: beef, lamb, vegetables.

CHAPTER III

APPETIZERS AND RELISHES

1.—COCKTAIL SAUCE

Mix, and serve in four small glasses or lemon shells, with six small clams or oysters in each. Shrimps, prawns, or lobster may be used instead of clams or oysters.

2.—ASHEVILLE CANAPÉS

Peel and cut small tomatoes in quarter-inch slices; cut thin rounds of bread the same size as tomatoes; toast bread, spread with Mustard Butter (see No. 459), or salad dressing, and cover with a slice of tomato; season lightly with salt and pepper, and cover with thin slices of cooked chicken livers. Garnish with parsley.

3.—CLUB CANAPÉS

Mix devilled ham with a little grated cheese; spread on thin rounds of brown bread, and mark into quarters with finely chopped pickle. Chop fine the white of a hard-cooked egg, and cover two opposite quarters; press the yolk through a sieve, and cover the remaining quarters.

4.—CRAB MEAT CANAPÉS

Chop crab meat, mix well with seasonings, and spread on thin rounds of untoasted brown bread. Garnish with small cube of lemon.

5.—MOCK CRAB CANAPÉS

Use one cup of corn which has been drained from its juice; put through food chopper, using the finest cutter; add seasonings and cheese, and spread on small rounds of toast. Garnish with small pickles sliced lengthwise.

6.—GLOUCESTER CANAPÉS

Cook a small haddock roe in boiling salted water for fifteen minutes, remove skin, mash, add a tablespoon of butter, half a teaspoon of anchovy paste, one-fourth teaspoon of paprika, and enough cream to moisten; add salt if necessary. Mound on small rounds of toast, and garnish with sliced pickles and parsley.

7.—TUNA CANAPÉS

Chop fish, add seasonings, and spread on small rounds of lightly toasted bread. Garnish with sliced pimolas.

8.—CELERY RELISH

Cut large white stalks of celery in two-inch lengths, fill with cream cheese which has been seasoned with salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. Garnish with a small piece of celery top.

9.—CHEESE AND APPLE RINGS

Pare and core apples, and cut in one-third-inch slices; mix cheese with seasonings and cream, beat to a paste, and spread or force through a rose tube on apple rings. Dust with paprika.

10.—SPANISH CHEESE

Cook together one and a half cups of soft or grated cheese with one-fourth cup of chili sauce until the cheese is melted. Serve immediately on toasted crackers or rounds of toast, as an appetizer or savory.

11.—CANTALOUPE COCKTAIL

Cut melon in small cubes, or in balls (using a potato cutter). Add chopped ginger, lemon juice, and sugar, and serve very cold.

12.—FRUIT COCKTAIL

Cut apples and bananas in small cubes; remove pith and seeds from oranges, cut pulp in small pieces, and add with juice to apples and bananas; add lemon juice and sugar, place in a shallow dish, and put directly on ice for ten minutes to chill; serve in glasses, and garnish with a Preserved Cranberry (see No. 670), or a spoonful of Mock Bar-le-Duc (see No. 666). Peeled Tokay or Malaga grapes and a little grated pineapple may be added to advantage.

13.—WINTER CHILI SAUCE

Mix, and simmer about half an hour or until thick.

14.—PICCALILLI

Put vegetables through the food chopper, using coarse cutter; sprinkle with salt, let stand over night, and drain; add other ingredients, and cook about forty-five minutes.

15.—TABLE SAUCE

Wipe tomatoes, cut in halves, and put in a clean, smooth preserving kettle; add onion and peppers sliced, and seasonings; simmer two hours, and press through a sieve; return to kettle, simmer one hour, and seal in jars or bottles; when cool, dip tops in paraffin. This may be used in place of ready-made sauce.

16.—TOMATO KETCHUP

Wipe tomatoes, cut in halves, and put in a smooth, clean preserving kettle; add onions sliced, cook slowly for one hour, and press through a sieve; add salt, cayenne, and paprika; tie mixed spices, garlic, and mustard in double cheesecloth, add to tomatoes, and cook rapidly until mixture begins to thicken; boil vinegar and sugar together while tomatoes are cooking; add them to strained tomato; cook until ketchup is thick, or until water will not separate from it when tried on a plate. Remove spice bag, seal in sterilized jars or bottles, and when cool dip tops in melted paraffin.

17.—SMALL CUCUMBER PICKLES (Gherkins)

Wash thoroughly, count, and for every hundred cucumbers allow one cup of salt. Cover with boiling water. Let stand twenty-four hours; then drain. Fill quart preserve jars with cucumbers, then add two tablespoons of mixed whole spices, a piece of alum the size of a pea, and boiling vinegar to fill the jar. Seal, and let stand a week before using. The boiling water should be measured, as an equal amount of vinegar will be needed.

18.—PEPPER HASH

Remove seeds from peppers and chop fine with the onion and cabbage. Put in cheesecloth, scald with boiling water, and squeeze dry; heat vinegar, sugar, salt, and mustard seed, add vegetables, and bring to the boiling point. When cool, put in a stone crock or small jars.

19.—PICKLED NASTURTIUM SEEDS

Into one quart of cider vinegar put three tablespoons salt and five or six slices of horseradish root. Pour into a jar and cover closely. Add the seeds as they ripen. Use in salads, sauces, or for garnishing as a substitute for capers.

CHAPTER IV

BEVERAGES

20.—COFFEE, EGG, AND MILK

Beat the eggs until light; add the other ingredients, and strain into glasses. Serve very cold. (This recipe fills four tumblers.)

21.—GRAPE JUICE (Unfermented)

Pick over and wash grapes, barely cover with water, and cook until soft and white; drain through cheesecloth, and to each quart of juice add one cup each of water and sugar; bring to boiling point, skim, bottle, and cork tightly. When cold, dip corks into melted paraffin.

22.—GRAPE EGGNOG

Beat egg until very light, add grape juice and sugar, and beat again, add milk, beat well, pour into a glass, and dust with nutmeg.

23.—GINGER PUNCH

Boil sugar and water with the lemon rind for ten minutes; when cool, add ginger and fruit juice, and strain over cracked ice.

24.—GINGER ALE PUNCH

Pour boiling water over mint leaves, sugar, and grated rind of one lemon, and let stand until cool; strain into a punch bowl containing ice, add ginger ale, grape juice, and strained lemon juice; garnish with sprigs of mint.

25.—MINT JULEP (Ginger Ale)

Boil sugar and water ten minutes, and cool; add strained lemon juice, mint leaves bruised, and ginger ale; half fill glasses with crushed ice, add julep, and garnish with a sprig of mint.

26.—MINT LEMONADE

Boil sugar and water twenty minutes; add mint, and let stand until cold; add lemon juice, and strain into glasses half filled with cracked ice. Garnish with sprigs of mint.

27.—TEA

Tea should be made from freshly drawn, freshly boiled water, poured over the dry tea, which has been put into a clean, scalded teapot. Cover with a cozy or stand on back of range for three or four minutes. Allow from a half to a full teaspoon of tea to each cup, according to the variety used. The finer varieties made from the first pickings require less than the coarser kinds. Be sure that tea does not boil. Serve with sugar, cream, lemon, cloves, mints, ginger, or bits of candied fruit.

28.—ICED TEA

Fill a large glass two-thirds full with cracked ice, add two thin slices of lemon with seeds removed, two teaspoons of powdered sugar, and fill with freshly made hot tea. One or two mint leaves may be added.

29.—FILTERED COFFEE

Put coffee into bag or filter, add boiling water gradually; pour through a second time, or even a third time if liked strong. Do not boil. Serve with hot milk and cream. Wash coffee pot and bag thoroughly, and dry in the sun if possible; renew bag often.

30.—AFTER-DINNER COFFEE

Put coffee into a filter coffee pot, add boiling water, and filter three times. Serve very hot.

31.—CAFÉ AU LAIT

To recipe for After-dinner Coffee (see No. 30) add one and a half cups of hot milk.

32.—COCOA

Mix cocoa, sugar, salt, and boiling water, and boil five minutes; add hot milk, and beat with egg beater until frothy.

33.—CHOCOLATE

Melt chocolate in a saucepan over hot water; add sugar, salt, and boiling water; stir well, and boil five minutes; add hot milk, and beat with egg beater until frothy. Evaporated milk makes excellent chocolate or cocoa. For marshmallow chocolate put two marshmallows in each cup and pour hot chocolate over them.

CHAPTER V

SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT

34.—ASPARAGUS SOUP

When fresh asparagus is served as a vegetable, cook the tough ends in the same water, which should be lightly salted. Press through a sieve, add the water, and for each three cups add one-half teaspoon of onion juice and one cup of hot milk. Thicken with one tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of flour blended together. Add pepper, and salt if necessary.

35.—PURÉE OF BLACK BEANS

Soak beans over night in cold water; drain; add one quart of water, bacon, and onion, and cook three hours or until beans are soft, replacing water which cooks away; press through a sieve; add seasonings, and thicken with bacon fat and flour blended together. Serve with a thin slice of egg and lemon in each plate. Corned beef stock is an excellent substitute for water, but if it is used salt should be omitted.

36.—BAKED BEAN SOUP

Simmer beans, tomatoes, onion, and water for half an hour, and press through a sieve; thicken with butter and flour blended together; add seasonings, and serve with fried croutons.

37.—PURÉE OF RED KIDNEY BEANS

Follow recipe for Purée of Black Beans (see No. 35), using red kidney beans in place of black beans.

38.—DRIED LIMA BEAN SOUP

Soak beans over night; drain; add cold water, onion, carrot, and bay leaf, and simmer an hour and a half or until beans are soft; press through a sieve, add milk and seasonings, and thicken with bacon fat and flour blended together. Serve with croutons.

39.—CAULIFLOWER SOUP

To three cups of the water in which cauliflower has been cooked add one-half teaspoon of onion juice and one cup of hot milk. Thicken with one tablespoon of butter and two tablespoons of flour blended together. Season with cayenne, and salt if necessary. Add a few left-over bits of cauliflower, and serve with croutons or crisp crackers.

40.—CREAM OF CELERY SOUP

Cook celery, onion, rice, seasonings, and boiling water for half an hour; press through a sieve; add hot milk and butter, and serve with crisp crackers.

41.—CREAM OF CORN SOUP

Chop corn and onion, add water, and simmer twenty minutes; press through a sieve, forcing through all the corn possible; add milk and seasonings, and thicken with butter and flour blended together.

42.—CHEESE SOUP

Scald milk, water, onion, and bay leaf twenty minutes; skim out onion and bay leaf, thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together; add cheese, egg, and seasonings, and stir until cheese melts.

43.—FRUIT SOUP

Chop fruit, add water, cook until tender, and press through a sieve; add tapioca, and cook until clear; add lemon juice, cinnamon, and honey. Serve hot or cold with toast sticks.

44.—OATMEAL SOUP

Cook oatmeal, onion, cloves, and bay leaf in boiling water for twenty minutes, and press through a sieve; add milk, seasonings, and butter, and serve with croutons.

45.—POTATO SOUP

Cook potatoes, celery, onion, and water twenty minutes; press through a sieve; add seasonings and hot milk, and thicken with butter and flour blended together.

46.—CREAM OF PEA SOUP

Rinse the peas with cold water, and reserve one-fourth cup; simmer the remainder with seasonings and hot water for twenty minutes, and press through a sieve; thicken the milk with butter and flour blended together, and add to peas. Add the whole peas just before serving.

47.—PURÉE OF SPLIT PEAS

Soak peas over night in cold water, and drain; add water or stock, and onion, and simmer about three hours or until peas are soft; press through a sieve; add milk and pepper, and thicken with bacon fat and flour blended together. Serve with croutons. If water is used in place of stock, add two slices of bacon and one and a quarter teaspoons of salt.

48.—RICE AND TOMATO SOUP

Simmer tomatoes, seasonings, and water half an hour; press through a sieve, and add soda; melt bacon fat, and cook with flour until brown; add to soup, and stir until smooth; add rice, and serve.

49.—TOMATO BISQUE

Simmer tomatoes, onion, bay leaf, cloves, and water for twenty minutes, and press through a sieve; add soda, sugar, salt, and pepper; thicken milk with butter and flour blended together, and add to tomato just before serving. Serve with croutons.

50.—TOMATO BOUILLON

Simmer all ingredients except tomato ketchup for half an hour, strain through double cheesecloth, add ketchup, and serve either very hot or very cold. The tomato pulp should be pressed through a sieve and used for flavoring other soups or sauces.

51.—TOMATO AND OATMEAL SOUP

Heat tomatoes, water, onion, bay leaf, and cloves to boiling point; add oatmeal gradually, and cook for forty-five minutes; press through a sieve; add seasonings and butter, and serve with croutons.

52.—TOMATO AND PEANUT SOUP

Add tomatoes gradually to peanut butter, and when smooth add seasonings and water; simmer ten minutes, and serve with croutons. Well seasoned soup stock may be substituted for the water; if so, use less salt.

53.—WINSOR SOUP

Pare and slice potatoes and turnip, add celery tops, onion, and boiling water, cook half an hour, and press through a sieve; add hot milk, thicken with butter and flour blended together, season, and serve with croutons.

54.—VEGETABLE SOUP

Cut leeks into slices, carrots and cabbage into small pieces, or put through the food chopper, and cook in beef drippings for ten minutes, stirring often; add boiling water and potatoes, and cook twenty minutes, or until vegetables are tender; add milk and seasonings, and serve with croutons.

CHAPTER VI

SOUPS AND STEWS WITH MEAT OR FISH

55.—CREAM OF CHICKEN SOUP

Cook stock, onion, and celery for fifteen minutes, and strain; add hot milk and seasonings, and thicken with chicken fat and flour blended together. The amount of salt will depend upon the quantity in the stock. Celery salt may be used in place of celery tops.

56.—CHICKEN AND OKRA SOUP

Heat stock to boiling point, add other ingredients, and simmer half an hour or until rice is tender. Add salt if necessary. Ham stock in place of chicken stock makes an excellent soup.

57.—CLAM BISQUE

Remove necks and gills from clams, and chop fine; simmer with the soft part of clams, water, and onion for fifteen minutes; add soda and seasonings; thicken the milk with the butter and flour cooked together; add to clams, sprinkle with parsley, and serve at once.

58.—CLAM BOUILLON

Chop clams, add cold water, and simmer fifteen minutes; add seasonings, and strain through double cheesecloth. Serve in cups with or without whipped cream; or pour over the stiffly beaten white of one egg.

59.—CLEAR SOUP

Cook vegetables, cloves, bay leaf, and water for half an hour, and strain through double cheesecloth. Add extract, salt, cayenne, and kitchen bouquet. Four bouillon cubes may be used in place of extract, and the salt, cayenne, and bouquet omitted.