[Contents.] [List of Plates]
[List of Illustrations]
[List of Cut Out Patterns or Plans of Garments]
[List of Dated Garments]
(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] clicking on the image will bring up a larger version.) (etext transcriber's note)

A
TECHNICAL HISTORY
OF COSTUME
*

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN, ASSYRIAN, AND
PERSIAN COSTUMES

In Preparation

ANCIENT GREEK, ROMAN AND
BYZANTINE COSTUME AND DECORATIONS.

———

EUROPEAN COSTUME FROM THE
THIRTEENTH CENTURY TO THE
COMMENCEMENT OF THE SEVENTEENTH
CENTURY——WITH DECORATIONS.

———

TYPES OF INDIAN, PERSIAN, CHINESE
AND JAPANESE COSTUME AND DECORATIONS.
With Notes on Various Additional
Types of Primitive Garments.

	AGENTS
AMERICA	THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
	64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, NEW YORK
AUSTRALASIA	OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
	205 Flinders Lane, MELBOURNE
CANADA	THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA. LTD.
	St. Martin’s House, 70 Bond Street, TORONTO
INDIA	MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.
	Macmillan Building, BOMBAY
	309 Bow Bazaar Street, CALCUTTA

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN
ASSYRIAN AND
PERSIAN COSTUMES
AND DECORATIONS

BY
MARY G. HOUSTON
AND
FLORENCE S. HORNBLOWER
CONTAINING TWENTY-FIVE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS,
SIXTEEN OF THEM IN COLOUR, AND SIXTY LINE
DIAGRAMS IN THE TEXT
A. & C. BLACK, LIMITED
4, 5 & 6 SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. 1.
1920

INTRODUCTION

If this work is to be kept within its limitations, it is naturally impossible to give a complete survey of all the varieties of the various styles. To get this knowledge it will be necessary to consult the works of reference, of which lists are given in each section. On the other hand, the special aspect of the work is more fully treated than in any other accessible book upon the subject.

Every illustration of costume given has been actually cut out and made up before being sketched, except in a few cases which are of the nature of duplicates, so that by following the directions given it will be easy for anyone to reproduce them in material. Where decoration is required, the exact drawing and colouring of the various styles of Historic Ornament, which are the work of F. S. Hornblower (who has also coloured the costumes where necessary), will enable such details to be appropriately applied.

Throughout the book, the illustrations are given by means of facsimiles of drawings by artists of the various centuries, so that a historic survey of the History of Figure Drawing will be included. Where the drawings of primitive artists do not clearly express the ideas intended to be conveyed, a modern drawing of the garment on a dress-stand will be used for explanation of the measured drawings of the cut-out garments. The growing appreciation of the beauty and value of the earlier and more primitive systems of cutting shown in modern dress designing for the last decade, when the so-called Magyar blouse (really the simple tunic common to all primitive folk) began to be popular, will make the present volume a convenient form of inspiration for designers; also, where more exact reproduction is needed, as in theatrical work, pageantry, and so forth, the careful working out of the details of cut and decoration will expedite production and save hours of fruitless searching in reference libraries.

To the Art Student, in addition to the always interesting history of costume, the development of the Art of Representation, as shown in the illustrations of these volumes, which is so strangely repeated in the personal history of every young person learning to draw, will be attractive and instructive. Finally, in connection with the history lesson in the ordinary school, teachers will find the illustrations clear and helpful, especially if dramatic representations are attempted.

MARY G. HOUSTON.

	PAGE
[ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME]	[1]
[ANCIENT ASSYRIAN COSTUME]	[43]
[ANCIENT PERSIAN COSTUME]	[75]

LIST OF PLATES
IN COLOUR

PLATE		PAGE
[I.]	[Ancient Egyptian Goddess]	[7]
[II.]	[Ancient Egyptian Queen]	[9]
[III.]	[Ancient Egyptian Decoration]	[13]
[IV.]	[The God Osiris]	[15]
[V.]	[Ani, a Scribe]	[17]
[VI.]	[Thuthu, Wife of Ani]	[21]
[VII.]	[Ancient Egyptian Decoration]	[23]
[VIII.]	[Ancient Egyptian Queen]	[25]
[IX.]	[Ancient Egyptian Decoration]	[29]
[X.]	[Ancient Egyptian Priestess]	[33]
[XI.]	[Ancient Assyrian Personage]	[51]
[XII.]	[Ancient Assyrian Decoration]	[61]
[XIII.]	[King Assur-nasir-pal]	[63]
[XIV.]	[Queen of Assur-bani-pal]	[71]
[XV.]	[Ancient Assyrian Jewellery and Tassels]	[73]
[XVI.]	[Darius, King of Persia]	[81]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN THE TEXT, OTHER THAN PLANS

Fig. [2].	Tunic with Braces	[11]
Fig. [3].	Tunic with Short Sleeves	[11]
Fig. [4].	Sleeveless Tunic	[11]
Fig. [5].	Robe, Undraped	[14]
Fig. [6].	Robe, Draped and Girded	[18]
Figs. [7], [8] and [91].	Three Views of a Draped Robe	[19]
Fig. [10].	Robe Draped on a Woman	[20]
Figs. [11] and [12].	Two Skirts and a Cape	[27]
Figs. [13], [14] and [151].	Skirts, Cloaks and a Cape	[31]
Fig. [16].	Shawl or Drapery	[32]
Figs. [17] and [19].	Two Drapings of Shawls	[35]
Fig. [18].	A Simple Shawl Drapery	[37]
Fig. [20].	Draping of a Cloak	[38]
Fig. [21].	Military Corselet and Apron-like Appendage	[39]
Fig. [22].	Robe with Corselet and Girdle	[39]
Figs. [23], [24] and [251].	An Indian Sari	[41]
Figs. [26], [27] and [281].	Three Views of a Shawl Drapery	[49]
Fig. [30].	Belted Tunic and Small Shawl	[53]
Fig. [31].	Belted Tunic with Fringe Draping	[55]
Fig. [32].	Short Tunic with Small Shawl and Belt	[57]
Fig. [33].	Tunic Draped with Shawl	[59]
Figs. [34], [35] and [361].	Folded Drapery over Tunic	[65]
Fig. [37].	Folded Drapery over Tunic	[67]
Fig. [38].	Semicircular and Folded Draperies	[67]
Fig. [39].	Richly Decorated Tunic	[69]
Fig. [40].	Robe, Belted and Draped	[80]
Figs. [41] and [42].	A Drapery in Ancient and in Modern Drawing	[83]
Figs. [43] and [44].	A Drapery in Ancient and in Modern Drawing	[85]
Fig. [45].	Short-Sleeved Coat over Tunic	[87]
Fig. [46].	Overcoat, Short Tunic and Trousers	[89]

LIST OF CUT OUT PATTERNS OR PLANS OF GARMENTS

	PAGES
Tunics, with Braces	[8] AND [11]
Tunic, Sleeveless	[11]
Tunics, with Sleeves	[11] AND [69]
Robes	[14] AND [80]
Skirt	[26]
Cape	[26]
Collar	[26]
Shawls or Draperies	[34], [35], [37], [41], [49], [50], [62], [67], [82], [84]
Cloak	[38]
Corselets	[39]
Coats	[86] AND [88]
Trousers	[88]

LIST OF DATED GARMENTS
ILLUSTRATED

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN SECTION
	PAGE		PAGE
3700 B.C.	[10]	1200 B.C.	[38]
2500 B.C.	[16]	700 B.C.	[6]
1700 B.C.	[8] AND [10]	550 B.C.	[36]
1600 B.C.	[36]	Fourth Century B.C.	[30]
1500 B.C.	[10]	First Century B.C.	[8]
1450 B.C.	[16] AND [20]	A.D. 200	[30]
1300 B.C.	[36]	A.D. 1920	[40]

ANCIENT ASSYRIAN SECTION
	PAGE
2500 B.C.	[48]
1000 B.C.	[50]
Ninth Century B.C.	[52], [56] AND [62]
Eighth Century B.C.	[58]
Seventh Century B.C.	[68] AND [70]

ANCIENT PERSIAN SECTION
Eighth Century B.C.	[84]
Sixth to Fifth Centuries B.C.	[80], [82], [86] AND [88]

DECORATION
Ancient Egyptian Decoration	[13], [23] AND [29]
Ancient Assyrian Decoration	[61], [69] AND [73]
WORKS OF REFERENCE	[5] AND [47]

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME

GENERAL DESCRIPTION
OF
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME

CUTTING OUT

As far as the cutting out of ancient Egyptian costume is concerned, we may divide it broadly into four types—namely: (1) The type of the tunic. (2) The type of the robe. (3) The type of the skirt, with or without cape. (4) The type of the shawl or drapery. The one or two varieties which occur in addition to these may be found in military dress and adaptations from the costumes of other countries. All the varieties above referred to are described in detail in this volume.

DECORATION AND COLOURING

Though we find Egyptian costume in many instances decorated all over with woven or printed patterns, decoration in the main was confined to accessories such as the head-dress, collar, and girdle, these being often painted, embroidered, beaded, or jewelled. See various examples given. The colouring which was usually, though not invariably, confined to the decorations consisted of simple schemes, variations of the hues of red, blue, green, yellow, and deep purple described on [p. 66].

MATERIAL

The material used in the costumes was chiefly linen. In the most ancient types it was of a fairly thick, coarse weave; but in the later examples a fine thin linen, loosely woven so as to appear almost transparent, was used. The linen has often a stiffened appearance, and also gives the idea of having been goffered or pleated.

DATES

The earliest types of costume were the tunics; midway come the robes and skirts, and the draped or shawl type of costume appears the latest. However, the older types of costume did not disappear as the new ones were introduced, but all continued to be worn contemporaneously. The dates of most of the costumes in this volume are given with their description, and have been verified at the British Museum.

MEN AND WOMEN: THE DIFFERENCE IN THEIR DRESS

It can easily be gathered from the illustrations that the types of costume worn by both sexes were very similar. The high waist-line prevails in feminine dress, while the male costume, if girded, was generally confined about the hips.

Egyptian Works of Reference.
Prisse d’Avennes, “L’Art Egyptiens”; Leeman, “Aegyptiche Monumente”; Rossellini, “Monumenti Egitto”;	Hottenroth, “Le Costume”; Racinet, “Le Costume Historique”; Sir J. G. Wilkinson, “Ancient Egyptians”;
British Museum Handbooks and Reproductions.
These reproductions have lately been augmented and for those who cannotvisit the Museum will be found most useful.

ANCIENT EGYPTIAN COSTUME

[Plate I.]

[Plate I.], which dates 700 B.C., is an exact copy of an Egyptian drawing. It will be noticed that the Egyptian method of representing the figure is a peculiar one. A modern representation of the same type of dress is shown in [Fig. 2], and the plan of cutting in [Fig. 2A] It should be noted that this plan—namely, a tunic with braces—is in some instances shown with the braces buttoned on each shoulder at the narrowest part. This illustration is given as a type of Egyptian dress decoration, which would be either printed, painted, or embroidered on the garment. It might be considered that this type of dress more nearly approaches the skirt than the tunic; but reaching, as it does, to the breast-line, and comparing various examples which, as it were, gradually merge into the sleeveless tunic which again merges into the tunic with short sleeves, the present classification will be found to be the most convenient.

PLATE I

[Plate II.]

[Plate II.], which dates 1700 B.C. also first century B.C., is an exact copy of an Egyptian drawing of a woman wearing a species of tunic with braces (plan, [Fig. 1]). The striped decoration upon this tunic is suggested by the lines of another type of Egyptian dress—namely, the drawn-up skirt. The origin of the decoration can be easily understood by a reference to the drapery on [Plate IX.] In the original of this drawing the figure is represented with a lofty head-dress in addition to the fillet of ribbon and the golden asp here shown, but for the sake of getting the figure on a scale large enough to show clear details the head-dress is omitted. The person represented is said to be Cleopatra dressed as a goddess.

PLATE II

Figs. [2], [3], and [4], dating 1700, 1500, and 3700 B.C. respectively, are wearing dresses of the first great type of Egyptian costume—namely, the tunic type. They were made of fairly thick linen. [Fig. 2] is put on by stepping into it and pulling it up. Figs. [3] and [4] are put on over the head; the measurements given will fit a slim figure without underclothing. The origin of [Fig. 2] was most probably a piece of linen of the same length as this garment but wide enough to lap about half round the figure and have a piece tucked in at the top to keep it closed. This sort of tight drapery is quite commonly worn by negresses in Africa to-day. We also find it on some ancient Egyptian wooden statuettes, the drapery being of linen while the figure only is in wood.

[Plate III.]

It will be noticed that the Egyptian dress decoration is chiefly confined to the collar, which will be seen in wear on Plates [V]., [VI]., [VIII]., and [X]. The patterns were either embroidered, painted, beaded, or jewelled; the favourite lotus flower is almost always in evidence in the designs (see a, b, c, and d on [Plate III.]). On this plate also will be seen several other characteristic borders (f, g, h, i), and two all-over patterns (k, e), which were probably either stamped or tapestry-woven on the dress fabric. The colouring of these patterns is chiefly taken from painted representations of persons and ornaments. To arrive at the exact colouring used if the garments were decorated with dyed materials the description of the types of colours used in dyeing ancient Assyrian and Persian costumes, see [p. 66], will give a more exact notion of what was worn. We have, in the British Museum, actual examples of dyed wools and coloured beads used in dress decoration.

PLATE III

[Plate IV.]

[Plate IV.] belongs to the next great division of Egyptian costume, which may be called the “Type of the Robe.” This illustration shows it in its simplest form—namely, ungirded. To understand the quaint Egyptian drawing of [Plate IV.] a reference to [Fig. 5] is necessary, which is a modern drawing of the same costume. As will be seen from the plan, [Fig. 5A], this garment consists of a piece of material twice the height of the figure and folded over in the middle; a hole is here cut for the neck and, in addition, a short slit down the front to allow of the garment being pulled over the head. The material is sewn up the sides from the bottom, leaving a space at the top for the passage of the arms. A garment similar in type to this is worn at the present day in Egypt and Syria, and also, strange to say, by the natives of Brazil.

This robe should be compared with that worn by Darius, King of Persia, later in this volume.

Fig. 5

Musicians are often
represented wearing
this robe, sometimes
rounded off at each
side of the hem so that
it does not trail as it
does on [Fig. 5].

Fig. 5A

PLATE IV

[Plate V.]

[Plate V.], dating 1450 B.C., shows the same robe as [Plate IV.] worn in a different manner. In this case the garment is left open down the sides, the front half is taken and pinned at the back of the waist, and the back half is drawn towards the front and girded with a wide sash measuring 32” × 120”, as shown in [Plate V.] and Figs. [6], [7], [8], and [9]. It should be noted that [Fig. 6] is a modern drawing of [Plate V.]; also the costume upon p. [19], which dates 2500 B.C., gives three different views of the same dress, a costume which emphasizes the love of the Egyptians for drawing up the dress tightly so as to define the limbs at the back and allowing great masses of drapery to fall in front to the feet. To adjust the sash or girdle on [Plate V.], commence at the right side of waist drawing the sash downwards to the left and round the hips at back, next draw upwards across the front from right to left and round waist at back and tuck the remaining length of sash in front as shown in [Fig. 6].

PLATE V

[Plate VI.] is an illustration of a robe worn by a woman 1450 B.C., and [Fig. 10] is a modern representation of the same robe. It will be noted in this case that the front half is not pinned behind the back, but is kept quite full in front, and that the back half, instead of being girded by a sash, is drawn round and tied in a knot just under the breast.

This robe on women is also sometimes tied with a narrow girdle under the breast instead of the edges being knotted.

PLATE VI

[Plate VII.]

The decoration on this plate shows the detail of the characteristic Egyptian winged globe (a), hawk (b), and beetle (scarabæus) (c). Plates [I]. and [VIII]. are examples of the application of winged decoration upon Egyptian costume.

Three other geometrical borders (d, e, and f) and two all-over patterns (g and h) are given; g shows an example of the well-known feather or scale pattern; h (which is similar to e, [Plate III.]) is a favourite geometric motif, and was often printed or painted on garments. A very charming effect also of this pattern was a tunic entirely composed of beads, or beads and reeds, and worn over the garment shown on [Fig. 2], [p. 11]. Several beaded networks of this type may be seen on the mummies in the British Museum.

PLATE VII

[Plate VIII.]

The third outstanding type of Egyptian costume may be described as the “Type of the Petticoat and Cape” (the petticoat was sometimes worn without the cape). Now this petticoat or skirt, as shown in [Plate VIII.] and [Fig. 11], consists of a straight cut piece of material threaded through at the waist with a narrow strip which is knotted round the figure to keep the garment in position; the cape-like shoulder drapery is an oblong piece of stuff, to drape which take the corners d and e of [Fig. 11A] in your hands and twist them till the triangles a, b, c, and d, e, f, have become cords, and then knot as shown in the diagram. In the skirt piece, Fig. 11B, sew together the two short sides. As will be seen in the illustration, a long knotted girdle about 100 inches in length is worn over the skirt. It passes twice round the waist, and is knotted at the back as well as the front. In [Plate VIII.] the deep ornamental collar is worn over the cape. The collar, which was fastened down the back, is shown in plan ([Fig. 11C]).

[Fig. 12] shows another method of wearing a similarly cut but rather longer skirt; in this case there is no waist cord; two pieces of the upper edge about half a yard apart are taken in the hands and twisted, one is crossed over the other and tucked inside, the other is pulled up and

PLATE VIII

forms an ear, as shown in sketch. This particular draping is the inspiration of the decoration on [Plate II.] Similar drapings without the twisting were worn both by men and women. It is interesting to note that a practically similar garment is worn in Burma at the present day by both men and women.

Compare [Fig. 12] with [Plate II.] where the drapery here given has suggested in its lines a decoration of stripes.

[Plate IX.]

The noteworthy details of the decorations on this plate are those illustrated at a and b. These are appendages from girdles such as worn by male figures; an example is [Fig. 21]. The material of this appendage may be possibly of painted leather, wool embroidered linen, or linen with metal mounts. Many beautiful painted illustrations of this girdle appendage are to be found in the British Museum; e is from a feather fan.

PLATE IX

[Fig. 13] is an Egyptian woman’s costume dating 1450 B.C.; she is wearing two garments—namely, a skirt and cloak. This skirt, which is frequently worn alone without the cloak, as shown in [Fig. 12], is cut to exactly the same width top and bottom. It is wide for the figure, and the superfluous fullness is caught up in each hand in the act of putting on. The upper edge of garment is drawn tightly round the figure just under the breasts; the portions held in each hand are then tied together in a knot. In [Fig. 13] the cloak is knotted in with the skirt; this cloak is simply a rectangular piece of material. It will be noted that Figs. [13], [14], and [15] all show the popular Egyptian effect of drapery drawn tightly round the back of the limbs and falling full in front.

[Fig. 14], which dates A.D. 200, shows a Roman adaptation of the same costume. The figure wears underneath a long tunic, and over this, tightening it in at the waist, an Egyptian skirt; a small Egyptian scarf is knotted to the skirt in similar fashion to the costume in [Fig. 15]. All the garments worn by [Fig. 14] are rectangular pieces of material; the tunic is two straight pieces of stuff sewn up the sides; the top edge is divided into three parts by pinning; these openings form the neck and arm-holes.

[Fig. 15] is a Greek costume of the fourth century B.C. in which the Egyptian influence is equally strongly marked; in this case, again, the garments are all rectangular pieces of material, the sleeves in one with the tunic. To knot the cloak to the over-skirt, as shown in this figure, the fullness of the over-skirt should be bunched up in one hand; the two corners of the cloak are taken in the other hand and twisted together round the skirt in a knot.

[Plate X.]

[Plate X.] shows the fourth division of Egyptian costume—namely, the “Type of the Shawl or Drapery.” Several varieties of this type are illustrated and described on pp. [33], [34], and [35].

PLATE X

The fourth division of Egyptian costume is shown in the examples on [Plate X.] and pp. [33], [34], and [35]. These are the draped or shawl type of costume. They have many resemblances to the draping of the well-known Indian sari of modern times. Compare these with illustration of sari ([p. 39]). The ingenuity displayed in the draping of these costumes can only be realized when they are actually done upon a model. It should be noted with regard to all Egyptian costumes of the more fully draped type that the entire draperies seem to radiate from one point, usually a knot at the waist, with very beautiful effect.

To drape [Fig. 16], which is a modern drawing of [Plate X.], tie a cord round the waist, tuck in corner b (see plan, Fig. 16A) at left side of waist, pass round the back and round the right side to front again; make some pleats and tuck them in in centre front of waist, then pass round back again to right side; catch up the whole drapery and throw it upwards from right-hand side of waist under left arm-pit, pass on round the back

and over the right shoulder towards front, then throw the remaining portion of garment across the chest and backwards over the left shoulder; take corner a and bring it round under right arm-pit, release corner b which you first tucked in, and tie it to corner a. The corner c will hang down in a point at the back.

To drape the costume on [Fig. 17], which dates 1300 B.C., take the corner a of [Fig. 17A] and hold it at right side of waist in front, pass round the back and round the left side to front again, tuck in some pleats in centre front, and pass on round the back to left side of waist under left arm towards the front; catch up the entire garment and throw over the right shoulder, pass the upper edge of the garment round the back of the neck and over the left shoulder and downwards across the breast to right, where the corner b should be tied to corner a. Corner d hangs down in a point at the back.

For [Fig. 18], which dates 1600 B.C., take the corner a of [Fig. 18A] and hold it at right side of waist in front, pass the edge a-b round back of waist to the left side and across the front of waist, pass it round the right side again under the right arm towards the back and upwards over the left shoulder; tie the corner a to corner b in front.

For [Fig. 19], which dates 550 B.C., tie a waist cord, hold corner a of [Fig. 19A] at left side of waist in front, and throw the whole garment upwards over the right shoulder to the back; take the corner c, bring it round under the right arm, and hold it along with the corner a; draw the edge a-b, which still hangs over the right shoulder, downwards across the back to left side of waist. Bring it round to front of waist and pin it to the corners a and c at the left side of waist in front, passing the garment on round the front; tuck in a few pleats in centre front into the waist cord, then pass it round right side of waist and upwards across the back over the left shoulder, downwards across the breast to right side of waist; here pass a loop of material over the left wrist as shown in diagram; now pass a girdle round the waist over the entire drapery, knot it at right side of waist, confining the drapery as illustrated in [Fig. 19].

Fig. 18

Fig. 18A

Here are three other varieties of Egyptian costume. [Fig. 20], which dates sixth century B.C., is an arrangement of a cloak worn by a man (Plan [20A]). [Fig. 21] shows an interesting cross-over garment sheathing the upper part of the body, worn by a Warrior King, 1200 B.C. It was probably made of leather or quilted linen (plan, Fig. 21A). This figure is also wearing one of the characteristic belts with appendages (for detail see [Plate IX.], a and b). [Fig. 22], which dates 1300 B.C., is wearing a robe, as previously described on [Fig. 6], but in addition has a stiff corselet (Plan [22A]) of leather or quilted linen which is fastened at the side; the date of this figure is 1300 B.C.

A COMPARISON
THE INDIAN “SARI”

Before passing from Egyptian costume, it seems interesting to compare the accompanying illustrations of an ordinary present-day draping worn by women in India. This long shawl drapery (the “sari”) presents extraordinary similarities to some of the ancient Egyptian shawls or draperies already illustrated.

The method of draping is as follows: Tie a waist cord; take the corner b and fix it to the right-hand side of waist, then pass the edge b-a across the front of waist, round the left side towards the back, and round the back of waist again to the right side; now take up some pleats in the drapery and push them inside the waist cord in centre front of waist, then pass on the drapery round the waist to back and round to the right side again. Now catch up all the remaining drapery and throw it upwards across the chest over the left shoulder. Let the corner c hang down the back, and bring the corner around towards the front of waist and tuck it in at the left side of waist, so that it will have the thrown-over portion to the right of it. This completes this draping of an Indian sari. The width of this sari will drape a figure of 5’ 4”, most of those worn by Indian women are narrower.