TRAVELS IN
WESTERN AUSTRALIA

TRAVELS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Some Press Opinions of the First Edition

The Daily Chronicle: “This book is a pleasant and interesting one; it tells what somebody really saw and felt, not what somebody thought the proper thing to say. The average man will find May Vivienne a delightful and exhilarating guide to the still only half-understood pleasures and resources of Western Australia.”

The Empire Review: “It contains much first-hand information, clearly given, concerning the cities, goldfields, and agricultural districts of Western Australia. It is well illustrated, and will be found a most useful work of reference.”

The Financial Times: “Among the several books published dealing with Western Australia, we know of few, if any, which are at once so entertaining and so instructive as this volume. Any one who desires to obtain in a most pleasant way a good general knowledge of this distant colony could scarcely do better than purchase this book. As a mere record of travel, apart from its special interest as dealing with a gold-producing colony, it is well worth reading, and it contains a profusion of interesting illustrations.”

The Pall Mall Gazette: “Miss Vivienne knows her Westralia up and down; she takes us to farms and timber estates; she has visited the goldfields more than once, inspected all the chief mines, pegged a claim with her own hand, and pluckily traversed the pioneer fringe of civilisation. Her delightful journeys, which (with admirable illustrations) take us over the whole country, reveal its astounding promise, which has already largely become performance.”

John Forrest

TRAVELS IN
WESTERN AUSTRALIA

BEING A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS
CITIES AND TOWNS, GOLDFIELDS, AND
AGRICULTURAL DISTRICTS
OF THAT STATE

BY
MAY VIVIENNE

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON
WILLIAM HEINEMANN
1902

First Edition, May 1901
Second Edition, January 1902

All rights reserved

“He Masters whose Spirit Masters”

DEDICATED TO
THE RIGHT HON. SIR JOHN FORREST
P.C., K.C.M.G., G.C.M.G.
EX-PREMIER OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA
AND
MINISTER FOR FEDERAL DEFENCE
IN THE COMMONWEALTH
OF
UNITED AUSTRALIA

“Steer thou with good strong hand and wary eye, oh Helmsman”

AUTHOR’S NOTE

Some readers may be disposed to question the accuracy of my statements regarding the mines, and the actual wealth in gold of the State. I can assure them that these statements are absolutely devoid of exaggeration, and capable of being easily verified.

This is true also of what is said respecting timber, fruits, and agricultural produce.

Finally, my hope in issuing this volume is that it may induce people not only to visit but to settle in Western Australia, and so share in the benefits offered by its prolific tracts.

M. V.

CONTENTS

ILLUSTRATIONS

Bird’s-Eye View of Albany

CHAPTER I

Albany—Sweet Boronia—Middleton Beach—Little Grove—Regatta—Buildings—Whaling—Old Colonists—Travelling Dairy—Splendid Vegetables—Wattle Farm—Porongurup—Land Regulations—King George’s Sound.

The Omrah at Albany

Having travelled all over Tasmania, Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia (now United Australia), I one day made up my mind to set out for the land of gold, Western Australia, that has created such a furore in these last few years. Accordingly I took my passage from Sydney in the mail-steamer Omrah and, after a very charming voyage on board that splendid vessel, landed at Albany. It was a lovely day, and the first things that pleasantly greeted the passengers on stepping from the tug-boat to the wharf were various small boys with huge bunches of the exquisite-smelling boronia, of which I had often heard. Pretty little Albany looked charming. The day was really perfect in its loveliness; the country round looked like an exquisite emerald robe fringed with pearl and sapphire, the grand blue mountains in the distance, the opal sea, with its white-winged yachts and various sailing vessels lying at anchor in beautiful Princess Royal Harbour; the blue sky above, with here and there a tiny white cloud like a dove carrying a message to heaven; the matchless wild flowers springing around in profusion, and the scent of the sweet boronia wafting on the breeze from the gullies, where it grows in such luxuriance that one wonders no scent farm has been started to distil the exquisite perfume, made the drive taken by most of us before lunch most delightful. The peacefulness of this charming place was broken only by the arrival of the great steamers, with their crowds of passengers, who always went ashore for an hour or so, some of them to take the train en route to Perth, Fremantle, or the goldfields; the others, after driving, lunching, or dining, as time will allow, at the Freemasons’ Hotel (where I put up for a week), returning to the steamer to continue their passage “home,” as all we Australians call dear mother England.

After an excellent lunch at the above-named hotel we set out to view the surroundings of Albany.

On that day everything really looked so beautiful that one might believe Nature to have put on her most attractive garb for us, as if to say, “Why go from here?” Driving round the Marine Drive to Middleton Beach, we thought nothing could be lovelier than the view to which no attraction seemed wanting. The calm and stillness were broken only by a few other tourists, also feasting their eyes on this scene of beauty. It is a five-mile drive to Middleton Beach. The beach forms a circle of some three miles. Mount Clarence is in the background; in front is the land-locked Princess Royal Harbour, with its narrow gateway for the passage of ships; tiny bays surround it, and the picturesque islands look like so many lions guarding the portal. This is a favourite place for picnics; family parties are often here in numbers; the water is so limpid and shallow that children can dabble about to their hearts’ content; the sand is beautifully white and firm, and many little spades and buckets are employed in making sandhouses. Afternoon tea-parties are also quite an institution; it is considered quite “the thing” to bring a party of friends to tea, and, if you do not wish to have it al fresco, there is the pretty Esplanade Hotel, where everything, from afternoon teas to wedding breakfasts, is served up in most excellent fashion.

Another beauteous spot near Albany is Little Grove. The day I went the steamer was full, it being a holiday. Launches were plying from jetty to jetty, taking parties of picnickers to the pretty shady groves. A regatta was also being held, and many people were watching it. It was a pretty sight to see the contest of the boats as they sailed merrily round the lovely bay. The weather was exquisite, but a strong breeze was blowing; good seamanship was called into play in the sailing of the yachts and robust muscular exertion in the rowing events. Albany may well be called the sanatorium of the colony. The air is so invigorating that, after being there only a few days, one feels almost a new being. Any one suffering from brain fag or exhaustion cannot do better than go to Albany for a holiday. One need only look at the faces of the children, see their healthy looks, bright eyes and general activity, to know that they have been born and brought up amongst healthy surroundings. One feature of the children is their beautiful hair; many possess such luxuriant tresses that one feels inclined to envy the lovely colour and beauty of them, and to wish one also had been born in Albany.

The town possesses some very good buildings, and, although not of very large extent, is well laid out. It lies between the Mounts Clarence and Melville, and the many dwellings on the hillsides give it a most quaint and charming appearance. The principal places are the Town Hall, Post Office, Customs House Office, and large sheds, also some fine stores. There are still some very old structures standing, for Albany is an old town, Princess Royal Harbour having been called after the daughter of King George of England. The old-fashioned church of St. John has been beautified by the hand of time and adorned with a mantle of ivy green. Many stone cottages show the primitive way of building that prevailed in 1836. The gaol, built about that year, and in much the same style, still exists, but the stocks then in use have almost disappeared. A very old woman to whom I was speaking told me she remembered three women at a time being put into them. Other evidences of days gone by are immense heaps of bleached whalebones lying about in some parts. Albany was once a fishing village frequented by traders of all countries, who did a large trade in whale-oil, seals, &c., and exchanged for these things not only coin but also potatoes and fruit. There were evidently stirring times in Albany in those early days, and it was not an uncommon thing to see nine whales at a time disporting themselves in the harbour. The huge mail-steamers must have frightened them all away, for a whale is now a rare visitor. I spent a pleasant hour at the house of Mr. J. McKenzie, which in the ’fifties was the only hotel in Albany, and was known as The Thistle. It was also the general concert-hall and theatre. There were no theatrical companies in Western Australia in those days, and the small community used to get up its own entertainments without aid from outside. Among the relics cherished by Mr. McKenzie is the speaking-trumpet used by his father, a master mariner, an imposing-looking instrument of brass, something like a cornet. A magnificent double-pearl shell, with five or six lovely pearls embedded in its sides, must be of great value.

One of the most prominent early colonists was Captain John Hassell, who, after calling two or three times in his brig the Belinda, being wrecked, and undergoing many hardships, was still so much attracted by the splendid locality that he resolved to settle here, took another trip to Sydney, N.S.W., and returned with his family in 1838, bringing with him 700 sheep, 12 horses, 20 head of cattle, poultry, 15 men, also rations for twelve months. Captain Hassell went first to Strawberry Hill and afterwards to Kendinup Station, where a fine mansion stands, which now belongs to his son, John Hassell. It comprises 41,144 acres of freehold and 122,000 acres of leasehold property; the area is 225 square miles, and there are 320 miles of fencing on it. 6000 sheep are on the run, and one magnificent flock of imported sheep cost Mr. Hassell £4000. The samples of wool I saw from this station are really splendid. There is a plentiful supply of water, one well being 80 feet deep, and nearly always full. There are 30 civilised natives on the station, photographs of five of whom are here given.

A PART OF KENDINUP STATION

Albany has been connected with the capital by rail since 1886; previous to that time the overland journey of more than 300 miles was made by mail-coach or private conveyance over a very lonely road. The first railway here was negotiated by the late Mr. Anthony Hordern, of Sydney, N.S.W., and constructed under the land-grant system by a company of which he was director-chairman. Mr. Hordern took up large grants of land near Albany, having a high opinion of its agricultural possibilities. He had also large schemes for the future of the south-west part of the colony, and intended to build agricultural colleges to teach people how to use the splendid soil to advantage. Unfortunately Mr. Hordern did not live to complete the schemes; he died at sea, and a splendid monument to his memory tops the incline of the principal street in Albany. The late Premier, Sir John Forrest, said he remembered taking a journey from Albany to Perth in 1880, when the coach broke down at a distance of some 40 or 50 miles from the town, and it was necessary to get a team and travel by it another 40 or 50 miles; also many other difficulties were encountered before arriving at Perth, and the journey took a week. My own experiences when I visited this colony in 1882 were worse than the Premier’s. I landed in Albany with a party of four others; we hired two conveyances and four horses, paying £50 for them, provisioned for ten days, and set off through the sand and bush. As it took us sixteen days to perform the journey, as very little food could be obtained anywhere, and as we arrived at our journey’s end with only two horses, the other two having died on the way, the pleasures of that expedition can better be imagined than described.

The garden lands which lie in the valleys close to the town are being largely cultivated, and selectors from England and elsewhere are frequently arriving with the intention of taking up selections, and undertaking dairy farming and market gardening. The new travelling dairy instituted by the Government will be a great boon; it will have all the latest appliances, and the plant will be erected in places where the people have not facilities for making butter, &c., and persons who do not understand the process can be instructed. The yield from this district is one ton of hay, or fifteen bushels of wheat, per acre. This quantity has been exceeded at Toobrunup Lake, where the yield was twenty bushels per acre. Further proof of the fertility of the soil is given by the fact that cabbages grown at Mr. Horton’s selection weighed from 20 to 30 lb., and grew to maturity in thirteen weeks. Forty-two tons of cabbage came off three acres of land last year, and brought £10 per ton. Potatoes from the farm at Strawberry Hill, cultivated 60 years ago by Sir R. Spencer, weigh over a pound each, so that at dinner you are not asked to take potatoes but a part of one. These potatoes are really stupendous; one that I had in my hand I measured, and found it to be nearly a foot long, and wide in proportion! Seventy tons of these gigantic tubers, grown without the aid of any fertilisers, were taken from nine acres. Turnips flourish in the same way and grow to the weight of 3 and 5 lb. It is not “some pumpkins,” as they say in America, but “some turnips,” as they say in Australia. Onions also grow to an immense size, often weighing over 6 lb. each.

Albany and its surroundings are really as near perfection as it is possible for any place to be. It has a heavenly summer climate, the coolest in Australia. A day is considered hot if the mercury rises above 80°. During the week of the terrible heat-wave, when in other parts of the colony the temperature was from 110° to 115°, the record heat here was 95°. There are never by any chance hot winds. The grass is always green and flowers are always blooming. With its miles of harbour frontage, its lovely valleys nestling at the foot of its grand hills, its beautiful river, and the natural drainage which keeps the little town always clean and healthy, no wonder it should be regarded as the very choicest of health resorts. The rainfall is abundant, and the district seldom suffers from frost. The winters are very mild, snow has only been known to fall two or three times, and then was so novel a sight as to excite wonder in all the native-born Albanians. Last winter, however, Mr. Knight, of Wattle Farm, carted into town a huge snowball that had been rolled on his farm in the Porongurup ranges, which then were covered with snow, and afforded the grandest spectacle ever seen here. At Mr. Knight’s farm and orchard some magnificent fruit is grown, the apples being sometimes over a pound in weight. I shall never forget the lovely sight of that orchard. It is on an elevation of 1200 feet above the sea-level, and commands a view of the rich and fertile valleys around. The soil is of a rich deep chocolate colour, and the country is stated by experts to be volcanic.

Besides being endowed with beauty and richness of soil, Albany is likely to become famous as a coal- and gold-producing district, for coal has recently been found, and a company which will make further researches formed. Timber also is abundant, and copper has recently been found at the Phillips River, about 180 miles away. Thousands of people who have gone direct to the goldfields have no idea of the beauty of this place. They only think of Western Australia as a place in which, to look for gold, and when that has been obtained in sufficiency, to be left behind as quickly as possible. Tinned fruits, meat and vegetables have until recently been the staple food of dwellers in the goldfields; but, as population increases and fertile lands are taken up and cultivated, a sufficiency of fresh fruits for all requirements will probably be produced before long.

CIVILISED ABORIGINALS AT KENDINUP STATION

The land regulations of Western Australia are so favourable to the colonist that, if well known in England and upon the continent of Europe, they would probably attract many families of the vine-growing, artisan, and small capitalist classes. Any person over the age of eighteen, who is the head of a family, can take up an area of 160 acres of land for a free or homestead farm. A deposit of £1 is required as a guarantee of bona fides. The applicant must live on the land for six months of each year, and within two years must spend £30 in clearing or cropping, or put down two acres of garden, orchard or vineyard; within five years, one quarter of the selection must be fenced and one-eighth cropped; within seven years the whole area must be fenced, and one quarter cultivated. The selector then becomes entitled to his certificate of title, after having paid for it and the cost of survey. Direct purchase can be made, if desired, of from 100 to 5000 acres. The land is valued at 10s. per acre, of which 10 per cent. is payable on application and the balance by four quarterly instalments. Applicants must fence in the course of three years and spend 5s. per acre within seven years, and then can acquire their certificates of title. Grazing farms can be taken up at a rental of 2½d. per acre. Pastoral leases, or grass rights for grazing purposes, can be got for the nominal rental of 2s. 6d. per 1000 acres per annum and upwards. Garden lots, from 5 up to 50 acres, can be obtained. In this case the land is valued at 20s. per acre, and the plot must be fenced within three years, one-tenth to be put under cultivation as a bona fide garden. The terms are 10 per cent. deposit on application and the balance in six half-yearly instalments. In addition to all this, the Government have done yet more to induce land settlements by offering assistance from the Agricultural Bank, created by the late Premier, Sir John Forrest, for the benefit of all who desire to make a home in Western Australia. This bank will lend money on freeholds at conditional purchase (already fenced) to the amount of £800. An application fee of 1 per cent. on the loan is demanded, and this amount covers cost of inspection and mortgage. The amount lent is repayable by the borrower in thirty years; for the first five years the interest is payable half-yearly. At the sixth year a sinking fund of 4 per cent. commences, and continues until the end of the thirty years, when the debt is wiped out. There are Government land agents in nearly every agricultural town of the colony, and a would-be selector arriving and communicating with the Government agent receives all the assistance he wishes in making his selection. The present population of Albany is about 3500.

The Residency, Albany

A fine Quarantine Station has lately been built at a cost of £10,000. The forts are very interesting. No doubt, in the future Albany will become an important Naval station. An Imperial Officer of the Royal Artillery is in command, there is a small garrison, and some murderous-looking guns are in readiness to give a warm reception to any enemy who may appear. Before leaving Albany I accepted an invitation to take a trip out into the Sound. This was named by Vancouver, in 1791, King George’s Sound, after the then reigning sovereign of England. It is sheltered by magnificent granite rocks or headlands, and the anchorage is perfect, for the islands of Breaksea, Michaelmas, and Haul Off Rock—an immense block of stone, almost like a mediæval fortress—break the ocean swell. The beauties of King George’s Sound have been well known since the first navigators sought refuge in its quiet waters, and its maritime value can never cease.

I said “Good-bye” with much regret to the many friends made during my short stay in this little town, where even the Railway Reserve is a perfect garden of Arum lilies. These peerless flowers seem to grow wild, and their stately heads are to be seen everywhere. The scent of the boronia is wafted on the breeze from afar; you hear the merry laughter of boating-parties and of children who come along with their hands full of gorgeous wild flowers. One of the townsfolk brought me a lovely collection of orchids, of which there are many varieties to be found hereabout; another friend brought me a collection of Western Australia curiosities, shells, corals, &c.; indeed I was overwhelmed with kindness by the warm-hearted people, and could not but be sorry to leave a place where I had been received with so much kindness.

A Chopping Contest.

CHAPTER II

Torbay—Denmark Timber Mills—Mount Barker—Katanning—Wagin—Narrogin—Beverly—York—Lovely Wildflowers.

Leaving Albany under more auspicious circumstances this time than when I had left it by road, I took my seat in the train, my destination being Denmark Mills, where I went to see a great timber station and Jarrah Forest. On arrival at Torbay Junction, 9 miles from Albany, I left the mail train and took the timber train, as the company, who own the Denmark Timber Mills, have a private line running to that place; once seated I was soon carried into the timber country. We passed through country covered with boronia and other sweet flowers, and with Sheoak, Karri, and Jarrah trees. We crossed the Hay river and came to Denmark Mill and township. We were now in the thick of the Karri country, covered with immense trees. The site of the township, covering 150 acres, has, of course, been cleared, and there are many comfortable wooden and slab cottages with nice gardens attached, giving a plentiful supply of fruit and vegetables; as well as a good store, where everything appertaining to housekeeping can be obtained. No liquor is allowed to be sold at the mill on account of the dangerous nature of the occupation, consequently this is a model township. There are several coffee-houses, and, in spite of their enforced sobriety, the men seem to be very jolly and happy. An enormous stack of timber was ready to be shipped to Colombo, and the men were at work cutting more, as the enormous demand for Western Australian wood keeps the workmen busy night and day, working in relays. The line train wound round the hills in picturesque fashion, until we came to a valley which looked more picturesque still, but rather dangerous to cross in a timber-train. Here the flying fox or aerial tram is used to bridge the steep part and to carry small timber. I was glad I did not venture down into the valley, for I was afterwards told that it was not an infrequent occurrence for the timber-trucks, and occasionally the engine also, to leave the line, and as the trucks are of the roughest description, consisting merely of four wheels and a platform, and are loaded with immense logs, the passenger can only travel on the engine, or on the “dummy,” which is a special truck placed immediately behind the engine to keep it from being damaged in case some huge log, weighing perhaps 20 tons, should slide forward in the course of a descent. It is difficult to give an idea of the size of the gigantic Karri-trees here. One which I saw was quite hollow, and a bullock team drove right through it with perfect ease. In returning to the town I saw another large quantity of battens or pickets waiting to be shipped for London to fence two large cemeteries. Enormous fires are always burning in the town to consume the great heaps of waste from the mills. A pile, about 120 feet high, was waiting to be burned, and it did seem a pity that good wood should be reduced to ashes merely to get it out of the way. A scheme for shipping the refuse of the mills to America for conversion into paper has lately been mooted.

THE HOMESTEAD, KENDINUP STATION

Hauling Logs at the Mills

The Karri-trees, grow to a height of 300 feet, with a circumference of from 20 to 30 feet. From one Karri-tree alone 100 tons of timber have been cut. Karri is also called Eucalyptus collossea or diversicolor, the latter name denoting the difference between its leaves and those of other eucalypti. The timber is impervious to damp. I was shown a block cut from a log that had been buried forty-six years in moist earth, and it was perfectly sound. For mining, harbour works, railways and street-paving the wood is unequalled, and is now greatly used in different parts of London, notably in paving Charing Cross, where traffic goes on at the rate of 402 omnibuses every hour; and in Paris the Rue Lafayette and Rue Château d’Eau are also paved with our famous Australian woods. This particular wood is preferred for street-paving because it is safer for horse traffic than other kinds; observations taken by Colonel Hayward, late City Engineer of London, have shown that horses might be expected to travel over 446 miles of Karri road without accident. On Westminster Bridge, London (south side), the Jarrah paving has lasted for seven years. This wood is also being used all over the world for jetty piles; some enormous ones, 90 feet in length, were waiting at the train-shed to go to Albany, where thirty vessels are under charter to take the timber away to South Africa, South America, India, &c. There is another very large karri district which I mean to visit; I must not therefore exhaust all I have to say about karri timber here, but pass on, leaving behind Denmark Mill with its 20,000 acres of forest, where the manager told me over two million loads of timber were waiting to be cut down. Mr. Millar also owns very large jarrah forests, the Wagerup of 35,000 acres, and the Mornington, 55,000 acres, and employs upon them a very large staff of workmen.

Returning next day to Torbay Junction, I caught the mail-train and continued my travels, passing thousands of acres of land waiting for selectors. Stopping at Mount Barker, 28 miles from Torbay, I visited the homestead of Mr. Somnes, the land around which was first cultivated over 40 years ago by Mr. Somnes, senior, now 90 years of age, and many of the fruit-trees, though planted so long ago, are still bearing good crops of fruit. Over 55 acres of fruit-trees of different kinds, bearing lovely fruit, testify to the excellence of the soil. Two thousand apple-trees seem to be specially prolific. In another part of the Mount Barker district, Mr. Miller’s estate, comprising more than 5000 acres, has a fine orchard of over 6000 fruit-trees of all descriptions. Two other orchards, not quite so large but with much exquisite fruit, are not far off, and the old homestead of St. Werbergs, where the late Colonel Warburton resided, is a place of much interest. In addition to fruit, the necessary potato and onion are being cultivated, and in some cases yield very largely per acre. It was my intention to stay at Katanning, as I wished to see the much-talked-of orchard and vineyard of the Hon. F. H. Piesse.

It being night when I arrived, I could not see what the place was like, but in the morning light I found it a most charming little village. A great deal of land has recently been taken up by selectors; during last year over 1500 applications were made for homesteads and farms on conditional purchase, and many more for pastoral leases and town and suburban lots. The harvest returns here are very satisfactory, 15 bushels of wheat to the acre being the average. Many farmers are coming over from the other colonies to select land for farms, as well as people from England and other countries. The Katanning area contains 100,000 acres, so there is plenty of room for many farms and orchards. Assisted passages are granted from England to intending farmers and agriculturists and their families, also to single women and widows. They can come to this colony by only paying £8 5s. towards their passages. These people must, however, be approved by the Agent-General, Hon. Henry Bruce Lefroy, in London (15 Victoria Street, Westminster, S.W.), from whose clerks intending passengers can get any necessary information by writing to ask for it. On arrival in Western Australia the new-comer will be afforded every assistance by the Government land-agents who are stationed in the principal towns.

The orchards and vineyards of Mr. Piesse are really wonderful. There are 65 acres of fruit-trees, bearing all kinds of fruit of exquisite flavour, some of the pears weighing over 2 lb. each, and the peaches, apricots, and apples of equal size and beauty. The apples grown here are famed for their size, sweetness, and flavour.

There were acres and acres of vines loaded with large and luscious grapes, the purple ones, with their lovely bloom, offering a picture to the eye as well as refreshment to the palate. The cost of clearing land in this district is only from 35s. to £3 per acre, so that any one with small capital could soon have an orchard or farm of their own. The day is evidently not far distant when Western Australia will not only produce sufficient for all her own requirements, but, being nearer the European markets by several days’ journey than the other colonies, will be able to supply the markets of the outside world with her fruits, especially grapes, the soil in some parts being particularly suitable for vine culture. Her goldfields may in time be exhausted, her forests may be converted into timber, but the soil will always remain and vines will always grow as long as the sun shines to mature the grapes for wine to make glad the heart of man. Almond-trees also grow wonderfully well, and tons of almonds are sent every year from Katanning to different parts of the colonies.

One very great feature connected with fruit farming in Western Australia is that there are no fruit pests in the colony, no phylloxera, no codlin moth, and no nasty little fruit-fly to spoil the growth of things. Every care is taken that nothing of the kind shall be brought here from other places, all fruit being rigorously examined by experts before being passed by the Customs.

Seated behind a fast pair of Australian brumbys—(these horses, called by the natives Warrigals, are very hardy animals, and are well known to go longer distances without nourishment of any sort than any others of their kind; when proper food is unobtainable, they can subsist on the driest of spinifex grass, or scrub, and what would kill other horses does not seem materially to injure them)—I had a lovely drive over Mr. Piesse’s properties. One splendid field of wheat, 300 acres in extent, was a great sight. As far as the eye could reach this field, with its magnificent crop, waved before the breeze. We had passed the orchard with its acres of fruit-trees bending beneath the weight of fruit. Then we came to the vines with their rich and luscious grapes, then—a complete and charming change of scene—to the cornfield. On the far side of the field two waggons, each drawn by nine horses and laden with a tremendous load of produce of the glorious earth, were wending their way to the mill, which was seen in the distance on the other side. A forest of trees, white gum, York gum, and raspberry wood, sent a subtle perfume through the air. Opening a large white double gate (one of many), we drove right through the pretty cornfield, and one could imagine the feelings of Bobby Burns when he wrote his exquisite poem, “When the corn is waving, Annie dear.” Returning on the other side of the field, a pretty view is seen of the village of Katanning bathed in the golden sunlight.

We passed the model farm of Mr. Stanbury and came to Mr. Piesse’s splendid and most interesting mill: all the very newest machinery for turning the ripe corn into flour is here. I thought of our ancestors crushing wheat between stones, and watched the beautiful white stuff coming down the huge cylinders, automatically filling the corn sacks and coming to a dead stop when full, with no assistance from the human hand, while the man who had placed the sack on the cylinder stood by sewing up with twine the last one filled. The click came to notify that a bag was full; it was taken off, and another put on to go through the same process. Tons of refuse from the wheat were being thrown out, and on my asking what was done with it, Mr. Piesse said that it was given to the pigs. This splendid mill was built in 1891, but, in consequence of the rush to goldfields which broke out in 1893, lay idle for nearly two years, all the produce being wanted for chaff, which could not be cut quick enough for the demand.

A great deal of land-clearing is going on in the different selections, and it is interesting to see the forest devil or tree-puller at work. This operates by means of a chain placed round the tree and a lever worked by a man; in about 15 minutes a great tree will come up root and branch, and fall never to rise again.

Ready for Cross-cutting, Denmark Mills

Resuming my journey next morning, I once more sped on by train through the flower-scented country, passing Wagin, Narrogin, famous for oranges; Pingelly, and Beverley (all rich agricultural country). Here we partook of a very good repast, this being the place where many Perth passengers break the journey when going to Albany, or vice versâ; then, after a further run of 20 miles, we stopped at the pretty little town of York, on the banks of the Avon river. It nestles in a valley almost surrounded by green hills, and as I walked across the bridge, built of jarrah-wood, that spans the pretty river, I thought I had never seen a more pastoral or a prettier place. The town is in two parts, one each side of the Avon, which is crossed by three bridges. The pale yellow fields of corn, the pretty houses on the hillsides, the beautiful cattle grazing, and the fruit growing in profusion in the various gardens and orchards, make a charming picture. Quantities of sandal-wood grow close to the town, and constitute a valuable industry; the jam-wood also thrives well, and the scent of it makes one imagine oneself in the vicinity of a raspberry-jam factory. The headquarters of Parker’s Eucalyptus Distillery are here. The distillery is at Dangin, about 40 miles off, where the beautiful fruits that grow at York are preserved by the same firm, and are quite tempting to look at and exquisite to taste. Farming is very advanced in York. I was shown some wheat from a farm, a portion of a crop that yielded 32 bushels per acre. The farmers employ the very latest improvements in machinery, and say that, though expensive at first, they find these cheaper in the end, the expense of working the land being greatly reduced by using the newest strippers, &c. It speaks well for the productive capacity of the district that 24,000 bushels of splendid wheat were waiting, at the Empire Milling Company’s storehouse, to be turned into flour.

Driving from York to Greenhills, through the Avon valley, I passed Mr. Jesse Scott’s magnificent farm. Imagine a cornfield, or, I should say, a succession of cornfields, of 450 acres, on some parts of which the oats had attained the height of 7 feet. These portions of the fields would yield 60 bushels to the acre, and the whole 450 acres would average 35 bushels per acre. It was, indeed, a magnificent sight. On other parts of Mr. Scott’s property rye, buffalo, and prairie grass were making great progress, while 12 acres were planted with vines.

YORK

The tanning industry is well represented. I saw splendid samples of plain and fancy leather when visiting Mr. Hay’s factory; one enormous side weighed 39 pounds, kangaroo skins are also tanned and make a beautiful shiny leather. Kangaroo meat is eaten here, although beef and mutton are plentiful. Many people seem to prefer “Roo” steak. I confess I was rather surprised at breakfast to hear the waiter, in reading the menu, mention the latter dish. I did not test it, but at dinner tried kangaroo-tail soup, and found it really excellent. The much-esteemed Roman Catholic priest, Father Gibney, brother of Bishop Gibney, lives in York, and also has a pretty little place (which is his hobby) called Springfield, about three miles out. The Rev. Father has hundreds of fruit-trees of different kinds, and quite an orangery. I brought away several branches with eight or nine oranges on each as mementoes of my very pleasant visit. There are some good buildings, a fine Post Office, Mechanics’ Institute, Court-house, and some handsome churches, as well as many good shops. York is one of the oldest Western Australian towns, and enjoys the distinction of being the place where the first official execution took place in 1840. The wife of a settler, Mrs. Cook, and her infant, were murdered by aborigines during the absence of her husband. The murderers escaped into the Bush, and were only brought to justice through a tribal quarrel which resulted in some natives betraying them. They were conveyed to the scene of their crime and hanged in chains, in the presence of a large gathering of natives. Up to this time there was an impression amongst the natives that an absence in the bush, long or short, absolved them from punishment. This execution dispelled any idea of that kind which they may have entertained, and taught them a wholesome lesson.

A very well-known person in early times was called the Duke of York. He used to go between Perth and York in a little cart carrying goods, not least of which was a keg of rum, the virtues of which would have been even more warmly appreciated if the old fellow had left it in its natural state, and not mixed so much aqua pura with it. His descendants have risen in the world, and in place of the keg of rum of their ancestor have now bonded stores of large extent.

On leaving York en route for Perth the train journey was rendered delightful by the beautiful carpet of wild and many-coloured flowers on each side of the line. As the train sped past the idea struck me that these flowers—lovely immortelles, white, pink, and yellow, growing in countless millions—could be turned to good account. Conversing with a Westralian (white) native in the train, I find such a thing had never been thought of, and what could be made a source of wealth by some energetic people seems here hardly to be noticed. Thousands of crosses, wreaths, anchors, screens, fans, and other decorations could be made of these flowers, and would, I am sure, command a ready sale on the Continent, especially in France, where there is such a love of flowers for ceremonial purposes. At present, like the boronia, which usually seems to waste its sweetness on the desert air, they appear to be not much admired, except by people travelling through the country, who cannot fail to be impressed, like myself, by their beauty. For perfumery purposes, the little coffee-coloured boronia must have a great future before it, as well as the lovely immortelles. My friend in the train said, “I don’t think they are much good.” He put me in mind of the soldier, a good many years ago, who, on the defeat of Parses the Persian, found a bag of shining leather filled with pearls. Not knowing their value, he threw them away, but kept the leather bag, saying, “What was of no use could be of no value.”

Moirs’ Buildings

CHAPTER III

Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.”

And now for Perth, the capital city of the Golden West. As I remember it on my last arrival, after my memorable journey across the sand plains, it was a very sleepy little town. Now it is a handsome and prosperous city, with noble buildings on all sides, electric light, tramcars, beautiful parks around it, and yachts dancing on the broad waters of the Swan river. Perth is beautifully situated, and one cannot fail to be charmed with its picturesque and lovely surroundings.

Swan River, Perth

Perth on a Spring day presents a charming and animated picture. Boats and steamers ply across Perth Water to and from South Perth on the other shore, while black swans, which are to be seen in hundreds, are much admired by the many visitors. The pretty villas, shrubberies and trees, the old mill at the Point, and Mount Eliza lifting above everything its smiling face perfectly ablaze with gorgeous wild flowers of every colour, all help to give charm to the scene. St. George’s Terrace, the principal fashionable street, is nearly two miles in length and planted with shady trees. The Council have also lately had lemon-trees put in, with the idea, I suppose, of presently raising a crop of lemons. The golden fruit growing along the street will be something novel, but not, perhaps, financially profitable, since in the hot summer time it will offer rather a temptation to small boys who may have a leaning towards lemon squash. Russell Square will, in course of time, be as fine a public ground as any in Western Australia. A great day of tree-planting recently occurred there. Mr. Randall, Minister of Education, and the Mayor of Perth, assisted by some of the city fathers, planted the first trees: the rest were set by the school children, who had been invited to attend. Many beautiful Westralian, tropical, and sub-tropical trees will in future throw their grateful shade over this fine square.

HAY STREET, PERTH

Many handsome public buildings have lately been erected in Perth: Moirs’ Buildings, Prince’s Buildings, the Bank of New South Wales, De Baun’s Hotel, the Esplanade Hotel, and the new Public Works Offices would do credit to any city in the world. The Town Hall, which, although an imposing-looking building, is old, will shortly be removed, the Government having been offered a very large sum for the site, which is one of the most important in Perth, and very valuable. A new Town Hall will, accordingly, rise in some quieter part of the city. The Post Office is a fine building in the French Renaissance style. Then there are the Mines Department Offices, the Mechanics’ Institute, with its large hall for entertainments, and St. George’s Hall; Cremorne Gardens, where in the hot weather people take their amusements in the open air while smoking and otherwise refreshing themselves; there is a fine theatre in Hay Street, and another will shortly be erected in Barrack Street; across the bridge we come to the Victoria Public Library, a splendid stone building recently built, with an excellent library of 28,000 books and pamphlets. The Museum adjoins it, and contains valuable specimens of all the minerals of the colony, as well as biological and botanical samples. The Railway Station and Offices form a fine block of buildings, and an overhead railway is shortly to be started. There are some very large churches, Trinity Church, St. George’s Cathedral, and Wesley Church, in connection with which the new Queen’s Hall and the fine block of buildings adjoining it have been erected. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, an imposing structure on the hill overlooking the city, has on Sundays a very large congregation. The Bishop’s Palace and Convent are near it. Not far off is the Hospital, which is a credit to Perth, not only on account of the arrangements, which are excellent, but on account of the kindness, skilfulness, and attention received by the patients. It is most highly spoken of by all who have ever been its inmates. The Royal Mint is a new and handsome building, recently opened and Western Australia can now coin its own gold into sovereigns, instead of sending it to Melbourne, as was formerly done.

Perth Railway Station

Perth, having such a broad river, has also several very fine yachts and rowing clubs. The Swan River Rowing Club is one of the oldest institutions, and has not only a splendid new boathouse, whose accommodation and appointments excel those of any other on this side of the continent, but also the newest racing-skiffs procurable and handsome sailing-boats. The Club also has splendid gymnastic appliances, of which the members avail themselves largely. The Club’s rowing prowess has earned the distinction of being “at the head of the river.” The Royal Perth Yacht Club also has a spacious club-house by the riverside, and the many white-winged yachts that form the flotilla are a pretty sight when sailing on the broad bosom of the Swan.

Government House is a very handsome residence, its towers and colonnade giving it a most picturesque appearance, and the grounds, though small, are very beautiful; they slope gently down to the river by a series of terraces, and contain many rare plants and shrubs.

The Recreation Ground is quite close to the city. It is well laid out, and on holiday afternoons the cricket and football clubs indulge in their favourite sport, under the sunny skies and genial air that render open-air existence so delightful in Perth. A mimic fleet moored in the river faces the ground. This fleet belongs to the Royal Perth Yacht Club, whose club-boathouse is here. At the upper part is the bowling-green, where the gentlemen of Perth who have passed their first youth take their favourite exercise. Many ladies are to be found there on a fine afternoon, for the club members are very gallant and always have nice afternoon tea and its accessories for their lady visitors. The Cricket Association possess a very fine ground, covering fourteen acres, at the other end of the town, near the Causeway.

Melville Water

It is only recently, since Western Australia has made such remarkable strides, that the now lovely Perth Park has been appreciated. A few years ago it was nothing but wild bush, and though, of course, the view was just as good as it is now, few people ever cared to toil up the sandhills to the top of the Mount in order to see it. You can now go by tram, and a transformation has taken place. The park is surrounded by a fence, and has been laid out in paths and gardens, while pretty summer-houses have been built; it is five miles in circumference, and on the west side are numerous villas, gardens, and good roads. The observatory, near the entrance gate, forms an imposing landmark. Standing at this point a magnificent panorama is spread before you. The city of Perth lies at your feet, while far away in the distance the noble Swan river winds its way to Fremantle and Guildford. You feel as if you are almost up in the clouds looking down at the lovely scene of the earth beneath. Going along the broad drive you come to the highest pavilion on the summit of the Mount. Perth Water, with the boat-sheds and their many boats and yachts, and little steamers plying across to South Perth, lies like a jewel below. At the foot of the Mount are situated the Infirm Old Men’s Depôt and the splendid Swan Brewery. The road continues on, and we soon begin to go down the incline, where another still finer view looms in the distance. Crawley Park and the residence of Sir George Shenton are at the foot, the point standing sharply out of the blue water. Across the river is Melville Park. The scene is so exquisite that one cannot bear to go on, but must pull up the horse and stop for a few minutes, that the mind may drink in the sight. I have seen many beautiful places in the other colonies, and in New Zealand; but the view from Mount Eliza on a spring morning in the season of blossom, when every wild bush is ablaze with flowers, is a sight never to be forgotten. I felt I must stay for a while and gather some of the beautiful and quaint wildflowers, which are far more varied than any I had ever before seen. I found afterwards that by doing so I had transgressed the law, but, being a stranger, hope for forgiveness. Besides the flowers that grow in native profusion, many species have been transplanted from other parts of the colony. Young eucalyptus and tica folia, trees which are indigenous to the Albany district, and bear a handsome scarlet flower, have been planted on both sides of the road, and will in time form an avenue.

Many kinds of trees and flowers abound, the callistemon, with its brilliant scarlet plumes; the petrophila, with its exquisite velvety softness; banksias, honeysuckles, verticordias, with their lemon-centred foliage; the beautiful snowflake flower; the sweet-smelling, rich yellow hibbertia; the pretty blue gardenia, the lovely lilac hibiscus, or native tulip, fringed lilies, satin flowers, and others too numerous to particularise, form a picture so strikingly beautiful that I shall never forget the magnificent scene of green hills and flowery dales, country and town, blue sky and opal water, stretching far and wide. Terraces have been formed, and paths wind their way down the hill to the lower road. Here and there are rustic seats, where visitors can rest and enjoy the splendid view, and there are, of course, tea-houses, where you can enjoy the cup that cheers, or regale yourself with other refreshments. Rockwork, grass plots, and all kind of flowering plants add to the natural beauty of the spot. From the highest pavilion a really superb view of the city and surrounding country is seen on all sides. Steamboats are going merrily through the Narrows to the famous and beautiful Melville Park. In the background, the Darling Ranges loom grandly; in fact, the view is a magnificent panorama that could never be justly described by pen. Sir John Forrest and the members of the Park Board deserve the hearty thanks of the people for the improvements made to this lovely spot in so short a space of time. Perth has now settled down and become quite a quiet city again, whereas a few years ago, when the gold fever was at its height, the state of the town was very different. Then the excitement was tremendous. The talk everywhere was of nothing but gold; wherever one went gold was the universal topic, and one scarcely met a person who did not exhibit a nugget or some gold dust, or who had not specimens in hand—received from persons interested, who expected to make fortunes, and, indeed, in many cases did so—of gold in quartz, or of some other stone from one of the different “shows,” as they were called.

PERTH WATER

Western Australia was once a convict settlement, and every stranger who came to the country had to conform to the country’s laws. The term “sandgroper” means white native; another term used here is “straight hair,” given in the early days by the free inhabitants to the convicts, on account of always having their hair cropped short. Thirty years ago any one walking in the streets of Perth after 10 P.M. took his chance of being arrested for the night. The constables on their beats invariably threw out the challenge, “Bond or free?” and unless the person so challenged could answer to the complete satisfaction of Constable X.Y.Z., he was marched off to the Waterside lock-up. A well-known citizen was challenged by a newly appointed officer. “Halt! Bond or free?” “Free,” answered the pedestrian. “Your name?” “Churchyard.” “Ah, that’s not good enough,” said the officer incredulously; “who ever heard of a person of that name before? You’ll have to come along.” After a deal of explanation the minion of the law rather reluctantly let the citizen proceed on his way. A few yards further along he challenged another man, who gave the name of “Snowball.” This name was too much for the new policeman, who remarked that he was foolish to let the other fellow go, for who ever heard of such names before? Explanations, though freely offered, would not be accepted by the officer, who triumphantly marched a well-known and reputable citizen to the police-station under the belief that he was some desperate criminal on a midnight excursion. It was not until the prisoner was identified at the station that he was permitted to go home. All this is now changed in Western Australia, the only convicts who are now alive being a few old people whose terms have expired and who are now inmates of charitable homes.

CHAPTER IV

Darling Quarries—Kalayamba Vineyard—Mr. Brookman—Lady Forrest—Cambria—Mayor of Perth—Mr. Hackett—Canning Park Races.

It was a very pretty drive from Perth to the Darling Range Quarries, where great quantities of stone for road-making and other purposes were being turned out. The quarry is situated on the western slopes of the range, and commands a magnificent view of the whole country to the sea-board. The proprietor of the now prosperous quarries, Mr. Statham, gave us a brief history of his enterprise, which began nearly five years ago. For the first three years, March 26 was for him an unlucky day. First he was burned out and lost between £300 and £400. In the following year the same thing occurred, and he was a loser by £1200. The third time, when March 26 came round, he felt disposed to stop the machinery, but the day did not pass without accident, for the engineer was blown up, and had to be taken to the hospital, but recovered in about a month. Since the third accident Mr. Statham has felt proof against disaster on March 26.

Stretching away from here in the direction of Bunbury are over 80,000 acres of well-matured land waiting for clearance and then cultivation; at present there is no stock to feed on it, no creatures being seen but a few wild horses.

The homestead and vine plantations of Kalayamba, belonging to Mr. Wiedenbach, are prettily situated on the wooded banks of the Canning river, and the grapes some of the finest that I have ever seen. Five years ago Mr. Wiedenbach obtained cuttings at a cost of 2s. 6d. each, and from these he grafted six vines, out of that number four grew, and at the present time the vines from the four cuttings number 500 or 600. The vinery contains 4000 vines. There are 3100 citron-trees, and over 5000 other fruit-trees, many of them having fruit of phenomenal size and most exquisite flavour. The oranges, especially the mandarins, are really splendid. Last year 300 orange-trees yielded over 3000 dozen oranges. The lemon-trees are almost as good. The climate of Western Australia is specially suited to the growth of the orange. The most delicious oranges I have ever tasted grow on the slopes of the Darling Range, and must be eaten to be appreciated. The apple- and quince-trees were positively bent to the ground with their lovely burdens; while the almond-trees were a beautiful sight.

There is also a magnificent estate situated on the Canning river at Cannington, called Riverside, and belonging to Mr. W. Brookman, the well-known mining millionaire of Perth and Kalgoorlie.

This gentleman’s town house is full of fine furniture and curiosities brought in part from Europe, among these being a dinner service of 120 pieces, each of which bears a different pattern of Venetian lace, the whole set representing every pattern made in Venice since the earliest manufacture of lace. In the drawing-room are exquisite chairs, the embroidery of which is the work of a continental sisterhood; vases of Venetian glass which cost 100 guineas each, Bohemian glass bowls in amethyst, thickly encrusted with gold; priceless statuettes of Carrara marble, and elegant Louis Seize cabinets containing rare curios from all countries, are a few of the contents of this rich room; while on the polished floor are handsome Brussels squares, on which lie rare skins, one specimen of a magnificent Polar bear, with glistening teeth, bright eyes, and perfect head, lying almost life-like. A fine aviary adjoining the house is full of the twittering of birds and chattering of parrots.

MOUNT ELIZA AND SWAN RIVER

After the wealth and magnificence of the Gold King’s house, it is not to be wondered at if other homes look plainly furnished, and yet Lady Forrest’s, although an old-fashioned house, is most pleasant to visit. The furniture and surroundings are in exquisite taste. The afternoon I called, the artistic drawing-room looking out into the garden of sweet flowers was most restful to the eye. Lady Forrest is most kind and genial, and very much liked by every one. She takes great interest in her husband’s work, and takes many a worry from him by seeing people herself who come to interview him. “Sir John is nearly always busy,” said Lady Forrest pathetically, “I can’t get him to talk to me sometimes.” There are a great many works of art in the house, especially pictures, some by Lady Forrest herself and some by well-known artists; many portraits of Lady Forrest’s ancestors, and also bits of lovely English scenery from her father, the late Mr. Hammersly’s, old home in England, called Pyrton, of which she is justly proud. Mr. Hammersly was an English sportsman, and came to Australia many years ago. Lady Forrest is a Western Australian born.

There are many other nice old houses in Perth, notably Mrs. O’Grady Lefroy’s, at the upper end of St. George’s Terrace, called Cambay. The house stands back in spacious grounds, and belongs to the family, which is of old standing in Perth. Mr. H. Maxwell Lefroy in 1843 made an excursion into the Lake District to the east of York, and his discoveries have been of great value to the country. Twenty years after, in 1863, Mr. Lefroy made a more extended exploration. Mr. H. Bruce. Lefroy, the late genial Minister of Mines, is a Western Australian, but was educated at Rugby, England. He was Minister of Education in 1897, and has administered the Department of Mines with great skill, and to the satisfaction of Parliament and people.

Next to Mrs. Lefroy’s house is that of the late Mr. Alexander Forrest, in 1900 Mayor of Perth for the third time. Mr. Forrest has also done good service in the early exploration of the colony, and is now known as the Cattle King, because he took up immense tracts of land in the various districts, utilised them for cattle stations, and amassed a large fortune.

There are two daily newspapers in Perth. The West Australian is edited and owned by the Hon. J. Hackett, M.L.C. Mr. Hackett is an Irishman who landed in Melbourne thirty-five years ago. He was a barrister, but shook off the shackles of the law, came to Western Australia, took up land, and eventually became proprietor of the Western Australian newspaper.

The other daily, the Morning Herald, belongs to a syndicate. As there are several weekly papers, and a Sunday Times, Perth is well supplied with newspaper lore.

The weather being beautifully fine, I one day accepted an invitation to the races, and behind a spanking pair of horses, and in congenial company, whirled away to Canning Park. Arriving at the course, after a pleasant drive, we found fully 3000 people on the picturesque racecourse. Nature had donned her most inviting garb, the day was beautifully cool, and the effect of the mantle of green with which the lovely country was decked was heightened by the shades of the surrounding hills. The vista from the grand stand was delightful, and everybody was in good spirits and well pleased. The terrible stiffness which, as a rule, characterises Perth society, seemed to be thrown off for a time, and the leaders did not, as they often do, glare at all newcomers as if to say, “How dare you come here? This is our country; stay away.” Many pleasant afternoon tea-parties were in evidence, the racing was good, and the band played excellently. Some very handsome dresses were worn. When we left to return to Perth I felt quite charmed with the pretty course, and also with my good luck, for I had won two dozen pairs of gloves and ten golden sovereigns—quite a run of luck for me.

ST. GEORGE’S TERRACE

CHAPTER V

The Museum—Flower Show—Musical—Native Risings—Zoo—South Perth—The Old Mill—Moonlight.

The new public library and museum in Beaufort Street is a very handsome building, and well worth visiting. It contains many interesting collections of birds, beasts, fishes, and other specimens indigenous to Western Australia. The fossils found in the coastal limestone and in the carboniferous formations extending from the Irwin to the Gascoyne and thence to Kimberly are truly wonderful.

The upper part of a mastodon gives one an idea of the tremendous size and strength the animal must have had. The casts of the fish-eating reptiles and saurians are marvellous. Any one going through the museum and noting the productions of Western Australia, past and present—other than gold, which many people seem to think is the only thing the colony can produce—will be considerably surprised.

The marsupials are, I think, of especial interest, and of these there is a large and varied collection. These marsupials or pouched animals, from the tiny crescent wallaby, no larger than a very small rabbit, the pretty little kangaroo-rat, and the funny spectacled wallaby, to the rufus or red kangaroo, and the great old-man grey kangaroo, taller than a big man, and possessed of enormous strength and vitality, are, according to Mr. Woodward, the curator of the museum, characteristic only of the Australian region, the only kind of animal at all like them in the world being the American opossum. Some opossums, however, have no pouch, but carry their young on their backs. The kangaroos, as I think all Australians know, always carry the little Joeys snug in their pouch. And during my travels I have often seen them peeping out of their snug home. Many different kinds of pretty opossums come next, ranging from the pigmy flying opossum, little ring-tail opossum, and the odd little rabbit bandicoot to the pussy-looking black, grey, or white opossum, whose skin and fur make such warm and comfortable rugs for cold places, but are not often wanted in the mild climate of Western Australia. One tiny little mouse-coloured kangaroo-rat, found only in the south of the colony, is very pretty, and makes a dear little pet; these animals feed on the nectar of flowers, and when tamed, on bread and honey; they sleep all day curled up into a ball, but are very lively at night. Sleepless persons desiring a companion may be glad to note this. The Myrmecobius fasciatus, or banded ant-eater, from Coolgardie, is a most remarkable-looking creature, as, indeed, its Latin name indicates.

The splendid collection of Western Australian birds is really surprising; after seeing it one wonders how some people could say that there are no birds in Australia. The typical black swan, white swan, and pelican from the Swan River; the handsome bittern from Herdsman’s Lake, near Perth; the giant petrel from Fremantle; enormous emus from the Murchison, are all to be seen here, the last named with some dear little striped fluffy young ones, the size of goslings. I have often seen these birds when travelling on the Murchison myself. The ossifrag, a gigantic black-necked stork from Derby, in the far north; the Australian egret, so often plundered for ladies’ hats; magnificent sea-eagles; a most interesting nest of the sparrow-hawk made of twigs and gum-leaves, and containing four young ones, over whom the mother mounts guard; cockatoos, parrots innumerable, with most lovely plumage; and last, but not least, the graceful native companion from Broome. These are only a few of the birds belonging to the colony of Western Australia, but I have not space to mention more of them.

The nests of the trap-door spider are very peculiar; they look like a piece of ordinary clay, but when the door is opened a perfectly hollowed-out room is seen within, where the spider and his prey almost exemplify the old rhyme of childhood’s days. Some of the moths are very handsome, notably the diuran and the podacanthus, the first named being very large and of a lovely heliotrope colour. From these insects to a whale is a big jump, and the skeleton of the whale stranded at the Vasse in 1897 and secured by Mr. E. C. B. Locke, M.L.A., for the Museum, is one of the largest of its species, if not the largest; it is nearly 80 feet in length, and when in the flesh it must have measured 86 feet. The head alone weighs a ton or more, and the whole skeleton is prodigious. Coming back from viewing the whale, my attention was drawn to the first two sovereigns struck off in the Perth Mint, which repose on a velvet bed, and are, it appears, of much interest to the rising generation, for three boys were looking at them with great attention. The models of all the great and wonderful diamonds ever found in the world, some very ancient Greek coins, and famous French medals, work of noted French medallists also a cast of the celebrated Moabite stone, the original of which is in the British Museum, are near here; the last named is of great interest, being inscribed in three languages—Egyptian hieroglyphics, Semitic, and Greek; it was discovered in 1799 in the little town of Rosetta, on the Nile. It was the deciphering of this stone in the Greek language that gave the clue to Egyptian hieroglyphics. There are also copies of many of the great works of art in London and Paris, so that, although separated by so many thousands of miles, Perth still keeps touch with the old world.

The relics from the wrecks of the Batavia in 1629, and of the Zeewyk, wrecked in 1727 at the Abrolhos Islands (the story of which I will tell later on), are the most interesting things to be seen in the museum. They consist of silver and copper coins, rosary beads, clay tobacco pipes, copper kettles and stewpans, knives, spoons, scissors, fish-hooks and sinkers, tumblers and wine-glasses, some of most delicate glass, enormous greenish-looking liquor bottles, and some round ones, capable, I should think, of holding gallons, cannon-balls and bullets, said to have been manufactured by the mutineers on the islands, and two complete but rather gruesome skeletons tell a silent and sorrowful tale of the past.

The wonderful shells and corals from these islands made me no longer wonder that the Dutchmen in 1629 named them “Abros vos olhos,” or “Keep your eyes open”; they must have named them not only for the dangers of the coast but for the marvellous things to be seen there.

CITY OF PERTH

The different kinds of shells, sponges, corals, fish, and birds are simply amazing. I can only specify a few, amongst which are the tremendous cup-sponge shell, fully three feet long, the peculiar montipara or screw coral, and the enormous sponges, the many wonderful kinds of fish, birds, &c., from these strange islands so near our shore, as well as from Mandurah, Rottnest, Garden Island, and Fremantle must be seen to be appreciated, and I recommend every one visiting Western Australia to go and see them for themselves. The collection of aboriginal curiosities and relics is ample. The skull of a notorious aboriginal murderer called Pigeon, who gave the police much trouble in catching him, was shown to me. This native was named Pigeon on account of his favourite way of despatching his victims by wringing their necks. There are some fine native shields, spears, knife dabbas, meeras or throwing-sticks, kileys or boomerangs, &c., and some most peculiar boat-shaped shells that are hollowed from young trees and used for carrying water or food; a wooden helmet, exactly like a sou’-wester, makes one think that one of the Dutch sailors who came ashore in the early days must have dropped his hat and some savage have copied the pattern in wood. The fish-spears have about eighteen barbs both ways; the spearheads are made of many kinds of different glass, and nowadays the natives knock down the telegraph insulators and make them into spearheads. In former times silex, of which knives and chisels were made, was used, but the other material is easier to get, and the black fellow is well known to be as much averse to trouble as some of the white fellows. I possess three spear heads from the Kimberly district, one of which gave the death-blow to a man from whose chest it was extracted.

Aboriginal Camp

The medicine-stick or bunganarrie used by the natives as a cure is very strangely marked, the markings no doubt constituting some imaginary spell. The dandie is used for tattooing, and the gunda-stick, with a knob at the end, looks like our life-preserver. The pindie pindie is a native ornament stick, frilled to represent a feather, and sometimes made of pretty green and cream colour. The effect is produced by scraping down the green part of a young branch about two inches till it frills, then scraping the inner pale part to frill over that. A space comes next, and then another frill, until the ornament reaches the length required. These objects the natives stick all over their heads. They also make very handsome ornaments of large mother-of-pearl shells by drilling a hole through the top, and hang them by a string of hair about their bodies. The women have an ornament made from pearl-shell called the binjah binjah, which hangs down their back attached to a currican or woman’s necklace. The long marrie is an ornament of kangaroo teeth attached to a hair-string, to hang down between the eyes. The booran is a belt made from human hair, worn by the Kimberly natives. The native women have most stringent ideas of mourning for their dead. A picture of one mourning for her brother shows her hair all screwed up in little knobs with wilgie clay and fat. Wilgie is a red-coloured clay or earth used for various rites and ceremonies. The tomahawk or pulboo has a handle of wood, the head being made of a kind of flint or stone, fixed in with a resinous substance called pulga or gum, made from the roots of the spinifex grass. Native spearheads too are fastened on with this gum, which is found in solid lumps, and dissolves with heat. String is made by the natives from the skin of the opossum by means of an instrument called the boolga, which consists of a long thin round stick, crossed near the top by two shorter sticks, and has somewhat the appearance of a boy’s kite. In making their implements they generally employ a tool called a bedoo, which resembles a spearhead. The ongath or fire-stick is used for lighting fires, and keeps alight a long while, burning very slowly. These sticks are carried about almost as we carry matches. The letter-sticks of the natives, or paper-talk as they now call them, are beautifully marked and of different sizes, the designs on those from the Gascoyne district being quite remarkable. Around the stick will be marked, in a kind of blue ink, all sorts of odd signs and figures, such as a crab, a gun, a leg, an arm, a lover’s knot, a hand and arm outstretched almost like a masonic emblem, and many other peculiar signs best known to themselves. The dewark, or throwing-stick, is also an interesting object, and so are the many aboriginal carvings and the sharp stones used in their sacred or tribal rites. The stones used for grinding their food consist of a large flat stone and a round smooth heavy one. Nalgo is the name of the principal seed thus ground, but they have many different kinds of food, which I will describe later. A tree called the boobah-tree grows at Derby, and produces a nut as large as a goose egg.

The natives about Perth and Fremantle were in early days very numerous and troublesome. Native risings were frequent, and many hundreds of aborigines were shot. The present site of the Great Western Hotel was the scene of a large fight, arising out of the murder of two boys, the sons of settlers, who were minding cows, and were set upon by the blacks. The boys ran away to the Swan river, and one jumped in and swam across, only to be speared on the other side. The other boy did not reach the bank, but received five spears in his back and died at once. At this the settlers were soon up in arms, and one bloodthirsty native called Yagin was outlawed. He was eventually shot near Hutt Street, where the rising took place, by Dr. Dodd, who afterwards took a large strip of his skin from shoulder to foot, tanned it, and made it into a belt, which he wore for years!

That silk can be grown in Perth is testified by some lovely blue and cream-coloured handkerchiefs made from silk grown here, and presented to the museum by Sir John Forrest. Next to this case is an old plan of Leschenhault Port, now called Bunbury, in 1803. Also a little picture of the ship Success and a man-of-war in Careering Bay, Swan River, in 1829.

Perth does not yet boast of a large Botanic Garden, but as, in the spring, the whole country around is one vast garden the absence is not severely felt. There is a charming public garden, small, but very prettily laid out, near Government House, and opposite the Post Office.

Sir John Forrest prophesied, ten years ago, that in the future Western Australia would come to the fore, and the prophecy is being amply fulfilled; no travellers now ever think of making a tour in Australia without coming to the West. Mr. Frederick Villiers, the famous war correspondent, says that when he came to the colonies, seven years ago, he was nearly coming here, and, now having been, he professes to be so much charmed with Perth, and the view of the Swan River, as to feel inclined to settle down and end his days there. These little corners of the world have made him dissatisfied with his business, and as I gazed upon the many spots of beauty on the river before me, while the faint red blush of the sky deepened into a crimson sunset and cast a glorious reflection on the water, I felt myself agreeing with Mr. Villiers and disposed to stay in my pretty Claremont home for ever, where the sun seldom shines too fiercely and the winter is like a gentle friend.

One spring day I drove in to Perth to see the flower show, then being held in the Town Hall. The drive over the bloom-covered slopes of the park, the sweet odours of the pretty flowers of the Bush mingling with that of the golden wattle, was most enjoyable. I can never ride or drive through that park, and gaze on the beautiful scene below, without feeling that God has indeed given us a lovely world to live in. It was a holiday, and consequently many little parties (frequently of two) were exploring the flower-scented knolls and enjoying the breeze from the water. Perth was quite gay, all the carriages of the élite seemed engaged in carrying their fair owners to the flower-show. On entering the Town Hall a perfect blaze of beauty in the shape of wild flowers met the eye. The silver and golden wattle, laden with fragrant perfume, drew me immediately to the spot where they were. In the “Salyang Mia-Mia” (wattle-house) a most refreshing cup of tea was to be procured. Sitting in this fragrant bower and sipping tea brought to mind the lines:

All the world is turning golden, turning golden,

Gold buttercups, gold moths upon the wing,

Gold is shining thro’ the eyelids that were holden,

Till the spring.

“Djanni Mia-Mia” (bark-tree house) was a triumph of rusticity, and the collection of hibiscus, boronia, flannel-plants and mauve everlastings were so lovely that I was obliged to buy several bunches of the different kinds. The bamboo stall was also very artistic, and the bamboos furnished receptacles for water, by means of which the flowers were kept fresh. “Yanget Mia-Mia” was the name of the bush-house, which had a background of bulrushes and blossom, and various bouquets of all sorts, sizes and scents were so tempting that I bought more, and found myself becoming a walking flower-garden. Wild flowers were here in every variety and hue. Specimens of native flora had been gathered from the hills and dales for miles around. The anygoxanthus (kangaroo paw), a most wonderful flower, was to be seen in many different hues: the blue and red leschenaultia, the trailing white clematis, or virgin’s bower, hanging in charming clusters, white and red hibiscus, and the more delicate heliotrope variety of the same flower, the delicate grey smoke-plant, with its dark green leaves, the snowflake flower, which, when blooming on its native earth, looks like a snow white carpet, one after another caught the eye. These flowers have long stems, and make exquisite table decorations. The thysanctus, or fringed lily, is a remarkable satiny-looking flower, and has a habit of climbing. The delightful boronia has many different varieties, the pale yellow being the prettiest, and the pink and white coming next; the dark red or brown, however, gives off a most delightful and refreshing perfume. The native roses are very pretty, the small blue ones being the first and last flowers to bloom during the season. The blossoms of the eucalyptus are of a magnificent crimson, and the delicate pink and white flowers of the crowea hang in loose clusters. Having travelled through so much of the Western Australian country, I recognised many of the beautiful gems that are to be seen adorning the Bush in various parts I visited. The kangaroo paw, before spoken of, has many varieties, ranging from faint cream colour, through scarlet, crimson, yellow, chrome, and green to sable, and in form is exactly like the foot of our typical Australian animal. The little trigger (candolea) plant, with its white flower suffused with shades of pink and yellow, and the marianthus, a climbing flower, are extremely beautiful.

DRIVING IN PERTH PARK AT THE SUMMIT

The peculiar-looking ice-plant grows in the hot dry sand of the coast. I admired greatly some soft-tinted native tulips (pink), which were prettily veined and almost transparent. The actinotis (or flannel flower) is very abundant and long lasting, and therefore well fitted for decorations. Pilotus (or cat’s paw) has a pink and white flower, and retains its colour for a long time. A flower called the lactinostachys is most phenomenal; the stem and leaves seem to be without sap, and have a thick woolly covering; the flower looks so artificial that one can hardly believe it to be real. It is found in the northern part of the colony in hot dry localities. The clematis is a sweet pure white flower, which literally covers the trees and shrubs where it climbs. The banksia (or honeysuckle) is a handsome flower, with a kind of crimson cone. The parrot-plant looks like a many-coloured bird. The grevillia (or native fuchsia) is here in many hues. Sturt’s desert-pea is a very handsome, brilliant scarlet flower, with black centre. The fringed verticordia, with its lemon-centred foliage, is pretty, and so is the callistemon, which has bright scarlet plumes. The petrophila flower has striking blossoms that look like rich pink velvet, while the yellow flowers and peculiarly formed leaves (resembling a stag’s horn) of the synaphea were the most remarkable growths that I saw. Everlastings in every colour imaginable were there. The delicate but striking beauty of various orchids was shown to great advantage; the calendia (or spider orchid), with its peculiar spots, was particularly attractive: the douris (or dog-ear orchid), and the prasophyllum, with its spikes, 18 inches long, of dense white flowers, were interesting; so was the lyperanthus orchid, whose flowers turn black when dried; while the drakea (or hammer-head orchid) looked almost like a little duckling. The glossodia, spotted white, seemed as if it were varnished. Then there was a sensitive plant called the pterostylis, which almost resembled a tiny box, with a movable labellum, which is sensitive, and, when irritated by an insect, closes the box and imprisons the insect. Droseracea belongs to the fly-trap family, and has leaves and tentacles covered with a sticky juicy kind of acid, which arrests the inquisitive little insects, who come doubtless attracted by the dew on the leaf. As soon as these tentacles are touched the leaf closes in upon the unwary insect, which is soon absorbed by the juice exuded by the plant. The flower of the byblis, by far the largest and most attractive of the species, is of a rich salmon-pink colour. Probably the brightness of the flower attracts the insect to the stem and leaves, which are covered with the same juice as the droseracea, but in this instance the insect is absorbed on the surface of the plant. There are thirty-six species of insectivorous droseracea.

GATHERING WILDFLOWERS

There are hundreds of other species of orchids and thousands more of wild flowers. The late Baron von Mueller said, “Australia is a great continent, and much of its vegetation is yet unexplored.” The Baron added “that more than half of the total vegetable species known in Australia were represented in the West,” and mentioned over 9000 of them. Dr. Morrison, our Government botanist, informed me that there were more than 3000 species of wild flowers.

As I was leaving the flower-show I noticed some very fine Anthorreas. “The King Blackboy” is a Western Australian grass-tree much admired. A handsome painting of the Nutsyia fire-tree, or Christmas-bush, also demanded notice. This tree bears very bright yellow or amber flowers about November and December, and the blossoms being of such a brilliant colour, and growing on trees that attain the height of from 20 to 30 feet, are very conspicuous and visible at a great distance.

Taking the little steamer one morning I crossed to South Perth. The new Zoological Gardens are worth seeing, if only for the superb view from them. A recent visitor said that he had seen many gardens in various parts of the world, but none in a more beautiful position than at Perth. The gardens occupy about forty acres of ground, and are a favourite resort on Sundays and holidays. Family parties are made up to go to the “Zoo,” for many Western Australian children have never seen wild animals elsewhere, except in picture-books. The grounds are beautifully laid out; the aromatic flower-beds, ornamental ponds and rockeries, gushing fountains, miniature castles, turrets, &c., make it a charming place to spend an afternoon and evening. At night the grounds are illuminated with hundreds of different-coloured lamps, which send a rainbow radiance over the scene. Concerts are held every Saturday evening during summer, and there is a really fine quartet, called the Orpheus, whose harmonious blending of sweet music in the lovely summer nights is well worth listening to; the Headquarters band also plays. Many of the animals awakened by the sounds of music (which is said to soothe the savage breast) evince much curiosity, others slumber on, no doubt soothed by the sweet strains. There are two splendid lions in separate cages. The lioness is very bad-tempered, and on being placed in the cage with the king of beasts, instead of showing a taste for his society, clawed him unmercifully, he standing the bad treatment in a most kingly manner. Her highness was, therefore, placed in a cage by herself to recover her good temper.

The baby tiger seemed to be a great favourite, and it was quite amusing to see the antics of the monkeys in their play-room with the little ourang-outang, with whom they seemed to fraternise amicably and to play with quite happily. A ride on the donkey was much enjoyed by my little niece. I wanted her to mount the dromedary, but she declined that pleasure. Boys are pleased with the ponies, and the handsome goat-carriages come in for a share of admiration. The sacred Indian cow from Singapore, the newly arrived leopards, the white kangaroo (a great favourite), and all the others, too numerous to mention, were thoroughly inspected, and the children from the goldfields seemed delighted to see animals hitherto only known to them through the medium of books. Hot water is provided free of charge, and picnics are frequent; happy parties of little ones were sitting down in the cool shade and making the place ring with their voices. A view of the Canning river lies on one side and of the Swan river on the other, the garden being situated on an arm of land almost surrounded by water.

SOUTH PERTH FROM THE BANKS OF THE SWAN

South Perth was in early days intended for the site of the city, but the business parts having occupied the other side of the river, South Perth has been left to become a most charming and aristocratic suburb, many handsome residences, pretty villas and gardens adding to the natural beauty of the place. An old mill is still standing on the extreme end of the Point, and eventually a bridge will span the Swan river and connect Mill Point with Perth at the foot of Mount Eliza, near the park. Land is becoming very valuable here, and I have bought a plot with a view to building a villa in this beautiful place.

I did not return by steamer, which only takes ten minutes to cross the water, but preferred to drive round by land—a drive of about four miles. We drove about three miles before coming to the glorious Causeway, a stretch of water which is spanned by an enormous and handsome bridge. From this point a moonlight view of South Perth, Perth, and the Swan river winding its way to Guildford, is seen, and forms a very fitting end to a day’s pleasant excursion.

Fremantle Pier

CHAPTER VI

Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle.

One bright morning I started to drive from Perth to Fremantle, a distance of twelve miles. Taking the lower road around Mount Eliza, a beautiful prospect lay before me. The Mount rises 200 feet above the road, which is only a little way from the broad river; the sun shone on Melville Water in the distance, while on the other side lay the Canning river, with trees and hills beyond. The pretty suburb of South Perth on its arm of land, with the old mill at the extreme end; the many little boats and steamers going to and fro, made a charming summer-day’s picture. Along the road past Perth Park we saw the blue and silvery water all the time, and then, when we came to Crawley, we entered a road fenced on each side. Valuable land is placarded for sale, and no doubt in course of time will become even more valuable. Already streets have been laid out for a suburb, which, being so beautifully situated, will be charming to live in. After a pretty drive of six miles we reached the fashionable suburb of Claremont, where there are some very elegant villas and mansions. A mile farther on is Osborne, the most magnificent hotel and grounds in Western Australia. This fine building stands in large gardens and grounds, and is surrounded by splendid conservatories and terraces. There are wide balconies, arbours, and seats, and, in the matter of beauty, the place almost realises Claude Melnotte’s description of “a palace lifting to eternal summer.” It seems almost incredible that three years ago this exquisite spot was the abode only of the blackboy, banksia, and other native trees, and a shelter for the dusky son of the soil. Towering high above the hotel is a turret of spacious dimensions, from which the growing port of Fremantle, with many merchant vessels and steamships riding peacefully at anchor, may be clearly seen in the distance. The adjacent islands of Carnac, Garden, and Rottnest, with their rugged coast-lines, lashed by the surging waves of the ocean, are but a few miles distant. The clearness of the air gives a wonderful range of vision from the tower. As you turn, you behold in the distance the dark woodland of the Darling Ranges, whose summits seem to touch the sky. In the zenith of summer heat in Western Australia, Osborne is always delightfully shaded and cool.

An artesian well in the grounds, which struck water at a depth of 150 feet, gives an abundant supply, capable of supplying the whole of Perth. No less than 50,000 gallons of water are used every day on the grounds of Osborne alone. Steamers come to Osborne jetty during the week, and every Sunday in the summer, bringing hundreds of people to enjoy the scene. The steamer moors at a landing at the bottom of the cliff, and hundred of steps have to be climbed before the top is reached. The climb is made easy by a platform with seats at the end of every flight of steps, of which there are five, and one can rest on these to enjoy the pleasing prospect. Pretty villas are built all around the hillsides; dear little Freshwater Bay, with its numerous bathing-houses and jetties, the pretty yachts and boats on its bosom looking like white-winged birds, lies at your feet; and the wild note of the magpies, not yet frightened away by civilisation as the aborigines have been, is heard from the trees in the distance. Continuing our drive, we took the inner road up the hill. Another pretty little bay and suburb called Peppermint Grove, from the fact that at one time it was a grove of delicate peppermint-trees, discloses itself. There are many beautiful villas with gardens, a nice white, hard sandy beach, a fine jetty for the many boats that come from Perth and Fremantle, and the Yacht Club House. Keane’s Point, with a handsome old bungalow on a fine site, hides a bend of the river. The Chine, so called from its peculiar conformation, the ridge appearing like the backbone of an enormous whale or other gigantic sea monster, is another pretty spot. Any one who has the fortitude to climb to the top of the Chine will be rewarded by one of the most exquisite panoramic views of ocean, river, flower, shrub, sea and sky ever seen. The tints of the water from the reflection of the azure sky melting into pale yellow, then into rich gold and crimson from the setting sun, once seen will never be forgotten. Turning back, we resumed our drive up Forrest Street and into the main Fremantle Road. We were now in the seaside suburb of Cottesloe, and away over the hill lay the beautiful Cottesloe Beach, stretching along for miles. Cottesloe is one of the most flourishing suburbs of Perth. A few years ago it was all one dense bush; now it is full of human life, and houses are going up in all directions as fast as the builders can erect them. Past the quarries we went until a turn of the road brought us to a view so magnificent that its effect can never fade from my memory. In the distance the dark blue Indian Ocean rolled in all its majestic splendour; North Fremantle was in sight, and so was the mouth of the Swan river. We approached the bridge to cross it, and saw an effect even more beautiful. From the bridge on which we stopped a few minutes in order to gaze on this gorgeous scene we saw many fine ships lying at anchor on the broad ocean; up the river many small boats and steamers were moored; in the distance were white cliffs and pretty houses; the magnificent German steamer, the Friedrich der Grosse, was just going out to sea—and altogether the scene was truly a grand one. I hope I shall not be thought to rhapsodise too much, but I can assure my readers that I am writing exactly as I felt when first viewing the approach to Fremantle.

FRESHWATER BAY, CLAREMONT

When the new harbour is finished, Fremantle will be, as Sir John Forrest puts it, the Brindisi of Australia. And now we crossed the bridge and entered East Fremantle, leaving behind us the broad river winding its way to the ocean between two splendid breakwaters.

On we drove down Cantonment Road into High Street, the principal thoroughfare, at the top of which is the fine Town Hall with its splendid clock. From that point the street runs to Arthur’s Head, and is connected by a tunnel with the sea; on the top of the limestone cliff is an old building called the Old Cantonment, formerly used as a lock-up. Fremantle is built on a low-lying neck of land between Arthur’s Head on the one side and the limestone heights on the other, hemmed in on one hand by the river and on the other by the sea. The city was named after Captain Fremantle, who first hoisted the British flag there, in 1829.

There is a fine lighthouse on Arthur’s Head. It is a white stone tower 71 feet high, with a fixed white light, visible for 16 miles. Fremantle still possesses some old and singular-looking buildings. The old gaol and court-house, with the harbourmaster’s quarters and the barracks, will, no doubt, in course of time be replaced by more up-to-date structures; there are already many very fine new buildings. Fremantle has an excellent Grammar School, where most of the boys from Perth and the country districts receive their education. Mr. G. Bland Humble, the present worthy and respected Town Clerk of Fremantle, was the first master, having been brought from England in 1886 to teach the young idea of Western Australia how to shoot.

There are many good hotels, the Hotel Fremantle being the best at the city end of the town, and the Hotel Australia at the upper end. This latter is really a splendid hotel, standing in an excellent position, with a grand view of the river, harbour, and islands beyond. The jetty is half a mile long, and some large vessels are always lying there.

Fremantle is rapidly increasing in size and population, and social life is not so divided as in Perth; there seem to be more geniality and not so much stiffness about the people. A volunteer artillery corps, turf, bicycle, rowing, cricket, and football clubs provide various forms of social activity. There is a nice park, also a good recreation-ground, and several places of entertainment, and the large hall in the Town Hall is very handsome and superbly decorated. An inexhaustible supply of water is obtained from three large wells connected by drives. The water is pumped up by steam into reservoirs at the rate of 45,000 gallons an hour.

The smelting works about two miles from Fremantle, at Owen’s Anchorage, have lately commenced working, and are a great boon to the goldfields, which until recently were very much handicapped by having to send their ore to the other colonies to be smelted.

NORTH FREMANTLE

The South African War is the general topic of the day, and with what sorrow do we read of the sacrifice of so many noble lives! Several contingents of our brave Australians have left the different parts of the colonies to assist their British brothers with a little of the courage we have in the Sunny South. The second contingent has just left these shores, and Fremantle has had the honour of giving them the send-off. Over 30,000 people assembled to bid them farewell, and a scene of such unbounded enthusiasm ensued as has never before been witnessed in the colony. The magnificent steamer Surrey brought the New South Wales and South Australian contingents, and these soldiers came in for their share of admiration no less than the Western Australians. The enthusiasm shown for the Western Australian contingent from the time they left the camp at Karrakatta until they waved their last good-bye from the steamer’s side will never be forgotten. The street decorations, although hurriedly got up, were handsome and patriotic. At the Oval, where the reception to the troops was held, a huge marquee occupied considerable space, and rows of tables laden with every delicacy were provided for the troops and for the many distinguished visitors. Over 200 of the leading society ladies of Fremantle acted as waitresses, proud to attend on brave men soon to embark for the perils of war. Although the men were going away to face battle, all seemed jubilant, proud, and confident. The three contingents were all like brothers. The cries of the multitude were: “Cheers for the Cornstalks of New South Wales,” another for the “Gum-suckers of Victoria,” one for the “Crow-eaters of South Australia,” and “A great big one for Westralians; do your best, boys!”[1] At the wharf, prior to the Surrey leaving next day, somebody handed up a bottle of whisky, intending it for a Westralian trooper. A Cornstalk, however, became possessed of it. “That’s not for you, it’s for one of the Western Australians,” shouted the donor. “It doesn’t matter, we’re all alike, we’ll soon be Federated Australia,” laughed the Cornstalk, and opening the bottle took a drop, then handed it round to the rest, who all participated in it with real federal spirit. When the time came for the troopship to leave, some affecting scenes took place between mothers, sisters, wives and soldiers, but all bore up as bravely as possible. Were they not going for the glory of Old England and the honour of their beloved Queen?

A Bushmen’s contingent has since left all the colonies, comprising men who are accustomed to rough-riding and thoroughly used to rough life in most trying conditions. From what I know of many of the Bushmen I have met in my travels, I should say that they will afford the British troops valuable aid in reconnoitring the wily Boer.

As we all know, the Australians have since bravely distinguished themselves, and our late dearly beloved Queen testified her approval of their actions in many ways. Her late Majesty’s gracious act of proposing that the Duke and Duchess of York should go so far in order to open the Federal Parliament of Australia endeared her still more, were that possible, to the hearts of her colonial subjects. As one of them who saw the late lamented Prince Edward and Prince George when they went out to Australia years ago in the Bacchante, “I can testify to the unswerving loyalty and affection of Australians for our beloved Queen and all her family.”

HIGH STREET, FREMANTLE

And what a brilliant record our Western Australians, especially those of the first contingent, who have returned to Perth, have taken back with them! Truly they deserve the laurel-wreath of honour, while those who fell on the field of battle, giving up their lives for their beloved Queen and country, will live for all time in our hearts. I cannot do better, I am sure, than give Major McWilliams’ description (at the banquet given in Perth in honour of their return) of the way in which some Australians bravely distinguished themselves.

“Before closing, he desired to tell them a story about their entry into Pretoria. He thought it was an incident that all who participated in would remember to the last days of their lives. The hills around Pretoria were most strongly held by the enemy. Their mounted infantry, which included the 1st Western Australians, were ordered to take a hill. They climbed up the kopje, the horses being led behind them, and fought until relieved by the Gordon Highlanders. Their little band had to do the work of infantry, and the handful of men held the top of that hill, and kept the enemy at bay, until the Imperial troops appeared on the scene. The latter said: ‘This is our job now; you are mounted, and you will be required somewhere else.’ The colonials informally handed over the work to the Highlanders, and an order came from Colonel De Lisle to move back to the hills to outflank the enemy, if possible. They did so under a heavy fire, but the enemy, on seeing them, must have exaggerated their numbers, for they made off into Pretoria as fast as they could. The Western Australians followed, and on that night got within a thousand yards of Pretoria. At that time Lord Roberts’ main column was six miles in their rear. Their infantry decided to hold the position close to Pretoria until morning. During that night one of their number, a son of an esteemed resident of Perth—he referred to Captain Parker—was sent with a few men into Pretoria to blow up the line, and he certainly had the honour of being the first armed man to enter Pretoria. That, he thought, was a great thing to claim for a Western Australian. He might also state a fact not generally known, that the flag of truce on the night before was taken in by a New South Wales officer, an Australian born. This little company numbered less than one hundred men.”

TWO MORE COLONIAL VICTORIA CROSSES.

The Gazette of October 4 states that the King has been graciously pleased to signify his intention to confer the decoration of the Victoria Cross on Lieut. F. W. Bell, West Australian Mounted Infantry, and Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham, 4th New Zealand Contingent.

At Brakpan, on May 16, 1901, when retiring through a heavy fire after holding the right flank, Lieut. Bell noticed a man dismounted, and returned and took him up behind him; the horse not being equal to the weight fell with them; Lieut. Bell then remained behind, and covered the man’s retirement till he was out of danger.

Lieut. F. W. Bell is a Western Australian of the third generation. He was one of the handful of men who so distinguished themselves at Slingersfontein, when twenty-five members of the corps held a body of twelve times their number of Boers in check while the main body of troops—to which the corps was attached—and the guns retired.

Near Faauwpoort, on January 28, 1901, Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham was with a section which was extended and hotly engaged with a party of about twenty Boers. Just before the force commenced to retire Trooper M’Crae was wounded and his horse killed. Farrier-Major Hardman at once went under a heavy fire to his assistance, dismounted, and placed him on his own horse, and ran alongside until he had guided him to a place of safety.

Farrier-Major Hardham is a blacksmith, of Wellington, New Zealand.

CHAPTER VII
ROTTNEST

Steam to Rottnest—The Lovely River—Crawley Point—The Island—Boys’ Orphanage—Fremantle Harbour.

A very pleasant excursion is to Rottnest Island, twelve miles from Fremantle. We left Perth in the morning in the steamer to go down the Swan river, and then across the harbour from Fremantle to the island. The day was perfect, the scenery exquisite. I do not think the Eastern Colonists are aware how beautiful their Western sister is, or they would flock over here still faster than they are now doing. Leaving South Perth at our back, we had the magnificent stretch of Melville Water in front of us. Melville Park Estate is a very valuable property, and is rapidly being transformed from the primeval bush into a place of busy life; residential areas are being laid out, houses have been built, suburbs will soon arise, and land is rapidly going up in value. The little steamer for Coffee Point was just ahead of us, and at the Point we could see a fine bungalow, which must be a pleasant house to live in. Wattle-trees and beautiful flowers were seen in abundance through the field glass I had brought, and we decided that Melville Water was another beautiful feature of Western Australia.

We steamed past Mount Eliza, with its beautiful terraces of flowers and shrubs looking down upon us. The water was shining like a jewel at its foot. After rounding Crawley Point, where the handsome residence of Sir George Shenton stands, we soon passed into the loveliest little bay conceivable (Freshwater), its high cliffs studded with pretty villas, and the grand Hotel Osborne in the distance. Then on past Cottesloe, and into the Swan river again, down past Fremantle, and across to Rottnest. It was a most delightful trip, and I am sure the lovely Swan river is without a peer in Australia for rowing and yachting; it is perfect.

Rottnest is an island about 7 miles long and 2½ miles broad, and the scenery is very lovely. I do not know when I shall come to the end of all the beautiful scenery of Westralia, as the more I travel the prettier each place appears. The summer residence of the Governor is here, and although not a palatial mansion, yet the situation is so exquisite and the fishing on the island so good, that the Governor always enjoys his time of residence there. An avenue of Morton Bay fig-trees, a mile in length, has lately been planted on the shore of the Serpentine Lake, near the viceregal residence. Salt lakes abound on the island. There are chains of them, and the salt contains medicinal properties, but at present the lakes are only utilised for the manufacture of salt. There are some nice gardens, and agriculture is carried on by means of the labour of the prisoners on the island, for at Rottnest is the prison for aboriginal offenders and juvenile delinquents. There is a splendid lighthouse on the hill, with a revolving light visible for 40 miles. A most peculiar phenomenon appeared at Fremantle during the extreme heat of the summer, namely, a perfect mirage, so that two Rottnests appeared, one immediately above the other, and the lighthouse seemed to be of immense height. Strangest of all, about half way up the double-edged island there appeared a long line of foam, while beyond the island there seemed to be a line of rocks—recorded by no chart—on the far-distant horizon. It was a most uncommon sight. Rottnest has rich little valleys, and all kinds of fruit could be grown there, for the soil is extremely fertile. There are some very peculiar rock formations and caves, one particularly fine one being called, after our eminent tragedian, “The Henry Irving.” No better spot could be found for an invalid in search of health. Many people have cause to thank the Western Australian climate for a return to health after having been threatened with consumption. A friend of mine came from Victoria very ill, and was thoroughly restored after a few months’ residence here. The long summer, the bright sunshine, the dry warm air and pure atmosphere are just suited for delicate lungs. The winter is quite invigorating, with just enough rain and cloud to give variety—the spice of life. This colony seems to combine all the good qualities of the famous health resorts about which we colonials hear and read so much—Madeira, Egypt, the Riviera, &c.

After a most enjoyable day we returned to Perth in the moonlight, and with the scent of many sweet flowers wafting from the shore, to the steamer, arrived all too soon at the end of our charming excursion.

A very pretty drive is to Woodman’s Point, not far from Fremantle. This is a great place for camping out and fishing at holiday times. Numbers of tents dotted about testified to its being a favourite spot. The boys of the Swan Orphanage are taken out every year to the seaside for a holiday, and this year Woodman’s Point was chosen. Their happy faces and healthy appearance told you how well they were looked after. The poor little fellows were delighted at the sweets and cakes taken to them by several lady visitors. Their tents were models of tidiness and comfort; the dining-room was a floor of bushes under a big gum-tree. With the lovely blue sky overhead, the sparkling water of the sea close by, the beautiful view all around of ships, steamers and boats, it is an ideal place for boys to enjoy themselves, and they appeared thoroughly to do so, playing cricket, climbing trees, and pursuing other amusements dear to the hearts of boyhood. Some of them sang and recited very nicely, one patriotic boy giving “The Absent-Minded Beggar” with much enthusiasm. As we drove back to Fremantle the harbour looked splendid. A great deal of money has been spent by the Government to make it suitable for large vessels; at one time no very large ship could get a safe anchorage. At an expenditure of over a million of money, however, Fremantle Harbour has now been made able to anchor and berth the largest vessels coming to the colony. The trade of Western Australia is now most important, and sums up to the big figure of £12,000,000 a year; 50,000 people travel between here and the eastern colonies every year, and millions of pounds worth of gold produced in the colony have been taken away by sea. The mail-steamers now put in at Fremantle in place of Albany as heretofore, thus giving great dissatisfaction to the Albanians. However, the change of port is not only necessary for trade, as Fremantle is the principal port of the colony, but will also give people travelling from the other side of the world a better opportunity of seeing the metropolis and goldfields of Western Australia, which they were often deterred from doing by the journey from Albany to Perth, a distance of 338 miles, so it is an ill wind that blows nobody good.

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PERTH

CHAPTER VIII
GUILDFORD

Henley Park—Hunting—Mundaring Weir—Sir John Forrest—Darling Nurseries—Kelmscott—Armadale—Jarrahdale—Whitby Falls—Mandurah—Yarloop Mills—Harvey—Collie Coalfields.

One morning I drove to Guildford, 9 miles from Perth. Such a pretty drive! The Swan river winds its way so far, and is there joined by the Helena. The many farmhouses and crops of this fine agricultural district impress one very favourably. About half-way there is a fine hotel and good pleasure-grounds, called the Hotel Ascot, overlooking the river, where much boating and fishing are enjoyed by the visitors patronising the hotel.

Guildford is a pretty place, and, being so near Perth, is likely to become quite an important town. There are some good residences near. On Mr. Hammersly’s estate, called Pyrton, after the family estate in England, is a fine house, standing amongst unrivalled scenery. The scented foliage of the big gum-trees casts a grateful shade for the sleek cattle, and in the sweet springtime almost every bit of ground is covered with wild flowers of exquisite beauty. The Hon. H. J. Saunders’ estate at Henley Park is a few miles farther on, with a very quaint-looking house 70 years old, and built of sun-dried bricks. The walls are nearly covered with ivy, and woodbine runs over the fences. All kinds of flowers spread their rich perfume around. The orchard is close by, the scented blossoms of the various trees mingling their fragrance with that of the flowers. Mr. Saunders has a large racing-stable, and takes great interest in racing matters. The private training-track, made at great expense, is a mile round, and looked like a smooth lawn; the stud flock of Romney Marsh bred sheep had been feeding there for the previous few weeks. Mr. Saunders’ racing-stables are recognised as the best in Western Australia, and he has a small and select breeding-stud, including Leda by Trenton and Lady Sylvia by Newminster. His racehorses are likely-looking animals, especially Henley and Black Rock, which have some very good records. As we drove back to Guildford the sun was just setting, and the country road with its red soil contrasted well with the different greens of the trees and fields, and with occasional waving crops, vineyards, and blossoming orchards. Everything was perfectly peaceful, until, all at once, the stillness was broken by a party of huntsmen returning from a good day’s sport. One of them turned out to be an old friend, who told me that the country around Guildford is excellent for hunting, and that there is a very good hunt club. Our Australian poet, A. L. Gordon, writes:

“Here’s a health to every sportsman,

Be he stableman or lord;

If his heart be true I care not

What his pockets may afford.

And may he ever pleasantly

Each gallant sport pursue,

If he takes his liquor fairly,

And his fences fairly too.”

Hon. H. J. Saunders

I put up at the Guildford Hotel for the night, and in the morning thoroughly enjoyed the fresh fish caught for my breakfast in the river close by. Some excitement was one day caused in quiet Guildford when, some new works being in progress, some of the quartz boulders forming the old foundation were dug up and carted elsewhere; a boulder fell from the dray, and was crushed by one of the wheels; a glittering object was noticed in the débris, and turned out to be gold; the quartz had originally been taken from the Darling Ranges.

I went on to Midland Junction, 2 miles away, en route to the Mundaring Weir, from which source the much-needed river of water is to be taken to the Coolgardie Goldfields. This gigantic scheme will cost two and a half millions of money, but what a boon it will be to the waterless goldfields, of which far-famed Coolgardie is perhaps the most waterless! In spite of the croakings of those who are adverse to the scheme, Sir John Forrest will, I am sure, be found right, and when plenty of fresh water is obtainable at Coolgardie, so that the millions of tons of ore waiting for treatment can be properly crushed, people will see that the first Queen of the Goldfields is not yet dethroned.

The reservoir, where the waters of the Helena river will be stored by hundreds of millions of gallons and then carried across the country to the goldfields, is now in course of construction, and in two years a river (so to say) of fresh water, yielding 5,000,000 gallons daily by means of enormous steel pipes, 330 miles long and 30 inches in diameter, will be flowing, and the Coolgardie housewives will be able to turn on their taps for fresh water. A new era will then dawn for that beautiful city, and its true prosperity begin. The sum paid yearly by the Railway Department for water on its goldfields’ service would more than pay interest on the cost of the scheme. The morning that I arrived at Mundaring Weir the workmen were in a great state of excitement; their residence blocks were being allotted. There were 130 applications, 6 of which were refused, the applicants not being considered desirable residents. The Department will not allow an hotel to be established. Work at the weir was progressing well. At the huge quarries masons were working up granite into blocks. There is an almost inexhaustible deposit of granite, and the chief engineer, Mr. C. Y. O’Connor, intends to form the outer face of the wall with granite instead of using concrete, as is generally done. One enormous dam, nearly finished, is to hold 10,000,000 gallons of water. The watercourse has been divested of timber, and the appearance of the landscape thereby greatly changed. The weir, when finished, will be 560 feet long, and will hold 4,600,000,000 gallons of water.

GOVERNMENT BORE, NEAR MUNDARING

The train that carried us back passed through miles and miles of everlasting flowers. The ground on each side was covered with a carpet of them. Acres first of white, then of pink, blue, yellow and purple, charm the eye, and the kangaroo paw, standing up in its vivid hues of crimson and green, added a still further charm to the scene. On we went through the country robed in its spring garb of beauty, until we came to Smith’s Mill, named after Frederick Smith, a young gentleman explorer in 1836, who died of exhaustion at this place after having shown courage and endurance of hardship worthy of his cousin, Florence Nightingale. Here I left the train in order to visit the Darling Nurseries, which, although it is only seven years since they were first planted, are remarkable for luxuriance. The trees, with their loads of fruit, were weighed down with their own excellence. Thousands of citron-trees, 50,000 apple-trees, peaches and nectarines in enormous quantities, plums, pears and prunes in profusion, persimmons and other Japanese fruits were to be seen; and as for the flowers, the scent of them was almost overpowering. The roses were especially fine; all possible sorts seemed to be growing here. The foliage of the English and Canadian elm-trees and poplars formed a pleasing contrast to the forest vegetation around. It is only a few minutes’ walk from the station to this charming place, which is but 16 miles from Perth; and any one wanting a change from the city should take an afternoon and visit it.

Five miles from Mr. Hawter’s nursery garden is the Haughton Vineyard, now owned by the Mundaring Wine Company. The vines grow at an altitude of 1000 feet above the sea-level. The wine is delicious. There is a notable grape growing there called “Tarbinet Sauvignon,” from which is produced the celebrated Lafitte claret. Mundaring seems to be a congenial home to the vine, and its productive powers are of a high order.

Another charming place to see, 28 miles from Perth, is Kelmscott, nestling in its bed of flowers. Everything looked delightful on the morning that I went there. Nature never appeared more beautiful; it seemed cruel to pluck the flowers from their beds and crush the sweet grass with the horse’s hoofs. I felt almost like Mr. Ruskin, who was such a passionate defender of nature that he would never pluck a flower. Two miles from Kelmscott is another sweet little village called Armadale. I put up at the picturesque inn and enjoyed a few days’ quiet rest among the beautiful surroundings. The orchards, gardens, and vineyards here are so many that it would take a whole book to describe them. Sir Arthur Stepney and Mr. Jull own the largest properties, and have recently equipped a vinery. Only a few years ago immense jarrah and cool white and red gum trees stood in undisputed possession. Now fruits of all kinds are growing in luxuriance. Oranges, lemons, and sub-tropical fruits seem to flourish especially well. So do flowers; blue lechenaultias, coral creeper, heaths of all colours, heliotrope, primroses, pink, and yellow blossoms nestle in the grass. Lovely bouquets can be made from the delicate grey smoke-flower and the pink immortelles, and will last a long time without water. Six miles farther on we came to Jarrahdale. As its name imports, this is the home of the jarrah-tree, and there are large timber mills called the Jarrahdale Jarrah Mills, owned by a London company with a capital of £300,000. This company have the advantage of the fine harbour of Rockingham, where large ships call to convey the timber to all parts of the world. There are five mills on this property. I stayed at the town one night, and attended a concert got up by the employées, which was quite enjoyable, many of them being really good singers and dancers. There is a nice hall, built, of course, with the handsome jarrah-wood, which polishes so beautifully that it looks like mahogany. It never shrinks or warps, so that for a dancing-floor it cannot be excelled. There has been a great demand from South Africa for this wood, which is almost impervious to the ravages of time. Piles that have been driven into the River Swan at the Causeway, and others into the sea at Fremantle, have been taken up after 57 years and found to be uninjured, having resisted the attacks of the sea worm. This wood is one of the best for building purposes, for it resists the white ant and is the least inflammable kind known; yet when burning it throws out immense heat and makes splendid charcoal. There are many charcoal-burners about who are making a good living. Iron bolts and nails driven into the jarrah do not loosen from rust, and there is no doubt the jarrah is the principal tree of the colony. It has come triumphantly through several severe tests, and is now in great demand all over the world. The Golden West does not depend on her mines alone, but, as Mr. Zeb Lane said last year, “Make no mistake about it, the jarrah of Western Australia will yet pave the streets of many of the leading cities of the world.” The late Mr. Ednie Brown, Conservator of Forests, told me that there were 20,000,000 acres of timbered land in Western Australia valued by an expert at £124,000,000. At present there are 50 sawmills in the colony, employing over 4000 men, and still the demand is much greater than the supply, so that there is a great opening for more capitalists.

Whitby Falls Lunatic Asylum is near Jarrahdale, and the poor souls who inhabit it must, I am sure, find there a real haven of rest. The asylum nestles in a sweet valley at the foot of the Darling Range, and the hills make a grand background. Gardens, large fields and paddocks, with cattle feeding, stretch all round, and close by is a magnificent orchard. Five miles farther on are the famous Serpentine Falls, whose glittering cascades falling among the big rocks and boulders, nearly covered with scented foliage, then bubbling and rippling down the valley in joyous frolic among the sweet flowers and ferns, form an idyllic picture. By many this spot is called the “garden of the colony,” and certainly the luxuriant ferns and flowers seemed to grow more beautiful at every step. The blackboy and red gum trees grew more thickly than in any place I have seen, and where those trees flourish everything seems to grow with extra luxuriance. The blackboy is a most peculiar-looking grass tree, with a rough thick stem and a crown of thick heavy dark green grass, looking at a distance, especially in the twilight, like a real blackboy. The gum from the tree is eagerly eaten by the natives and cattle. It also exudes a resin from the stem, which is used for pitch in thatching the native houses, or Mia-Mias, as well as for other purposes; these trees burn brilliantly. The falls come rapidly down from the Darling Range in picturesque cascades, falling over the crystalline rocks into pools below, thence into the river. Twenty-six miles farther on is Pinjarrah. To see this quiet little place now, one would not imagine that years ago it was the scene of an immense native rising; that the soldiers and mounted police had followed the aborigines for miles, and that here the climax came, and hundreds of natives fell. Things are changed since those days of bloodshed, and the few aborigines left do not seem to bear any ill-will to the white fellow. An old native said to me: “I like white fellow; he take all my land, but he make my house, and my big railway, grow big corn, big potatoes; black fellow do nothing, white fellow know everything, so white fellow do what he like—you give me sixpence?” The black fellow always finishes up any conversation with that request. Pinjarrah is on the Murray river, and the centre of a large agricultural district, where plenty of splendid land is available for the selector. Some economists say that population is pressing on the earth’s productive powers, and that by-and-by there will be a dearth of animal food; yet before mankind is starved out he can become vegetarian, as meat diet is expensive compared with a vegetable one. It is said that twenty acres of land are necessary to feed one man on meat, while the same land under vegetable crops would support a great number. One acre of wheat will support 42 people; one of oats, 84; of potatoes and rice, 176; so let us not despair while the rich land is still wailing for cultivation. Cabbages flourish exceedingly at Pinjarrah, and the climate and soil are well adapted for English fruits. There is quite a thriving village, with good buildings and private houses. From this place I took a drive of 14 miles through rich fruit-growing country to the charming seaside town of Mandurah. Pears, peaches and nectarines loaded the trees, and there is a fine fruit-preserving factory, as well as several factories for preserving fish. The Brighton Hotel is very comfortable, and you can get a vast amount of pleasure at this charming resort. Boating, fishing and shooting can be indulged in to your heart’s content. I had a right merry time; several people I knew were staying there, and I became quite an expert at fishing. Across the ferry from the hotel is the Murray estuary, which is really teeming with fish. The goldfields people patronise Mandurah largely, and many huge catches of fish have been chronicled by them on their return to the fields from their holiday. Very large kingfish are frequently caught with hand-lines. Almost any kind of line will do; it is amusing to see the greedy things snapping at anything you put on the hook. I saw one caught that measured 5 feet in length and weighed 38 lb. Black bream weighing 4 lb. are a common catch. Hosts of crabs are about, making the fishing more exciting than ever. At one time I thought fishing the slowest amusement in the world, but after this experience at Mandurah I am convinced that there is some fascination in it after all. In two days a visitor caught 17 dozen whiting, bream and mullet. The mullet is a delicious fish, more like salmon than anything. Some English people staying at the hotel said it was quite equal to the English salmon. As you may imagine, plenty of well-cooked fish is always supplied at table, and any one requiring a quiet and enjoyable rest from city troubles cannot do better than visit Mandurah, where, in addition to the splendid fishing, other sports can be indulged in, since plenty of good duck, teal and snipe shooting is to be got at the lakes 5 miles out.

LUNATIC ASYLUM, W.A.

Returning to Pinjarrah, I drove out to a fine orange grove. Some idea of its character can be gained from the fact that some well-known fruiterers of Perth bought four trees from the owner at £100 per tree, and, after ripening and picking, made £50 profit per tree. The Drakesbrook Experimental Government Farm is about 12 miles off, and I there saw enormous cucumbers, pumpkins, and other vegetables.

Seven miles farther on are Millar’s Yarloop Mills. The export from these mills is very large; 21 sailing ships and 15 steamers were employed to take away the timber to various places last year. The settlement presents a busy appearance. When the train stopped over 100 men came from the mills to get their newspapers and see if there was any one they knew in the train. I left the train and looked for an hotel to put up at, but there is none; however, I obtained comfortable quarters at a private house. There are several mills connected with Yarloop, among them Iron Pot, so called from a conical hill near to it. Hoffman & Waterhouse’s Mills are 13 miles away, and are connected by telephone with the head mill. The office is very handsomely built of jarrah lined with polished wood, tongued and grooved. Much of the wood of Western Australia is suitable for small manufacturing purposes, such as making picture-frames, walking-sticks and knife-handles, while the jam-wood, with its aromatic perfume, is the very thing for pipe-making. I am sure a large trade could be worked up in that business.

Some beautiful artistic work in jarrah carving has lately been done by Mr. Howitt, of Perth, and was shown at the Paris Exhibition. One piece especially, a font, is most exquisitely carved. Besides these jarrah carvings, Mr. Howitt has made some panels from the following Australian woods—karri, tuart, redgum, sandal-wood, raspberry jam, banksia, she oak, prickly pear, York gum, blackbutt, wandoo and morrell; each of the panels is decorated with a carving of the tree’s foliage. I also saw at Robertson & Moffat’s furnishing warehouse, before leaving Perth, a handsome dinner-waggon made from seventeen kinds of Western Australian woods, with which, besides the before-mentioned woods, salmon gum, gimblet, castor-oil, swamp gum, and curly jarrah were most artistically introduced in the mosaic part, and with the handsomely carved typical swan on the top made a very effective piece of furniture.

The Chamber of Commerce, Prague, Bohemia, have recently written to Mr. Ulrich, of Fremantle, asking for specimens and samples of Western Australian woods to be sent to that place with a view to future business; and when the beauty and excellence of the woods become more generally known I think they will be put to more artistic uses than wood-paving. Outdoor enjoyments are yearly coming into more favour, and the demand for outdoor chairs, seats, and tables must increase. The jarrah-wood never shrinks, and being of a beautiful dark red colour does not require paint. The timber resources of the colony are marvellous, and it is estimated that it would take fully a century to exhaust the now matured trees, while fresh ones would be growing all the time.

The Harvey agricultural area, 9 miles from Yarloop, comprises 43,000 acres; of this 19,803 acres have been surveyed into 155 plots. The land is splendid for fruit and vegetables, and there are a good many selections, 10,000 acres having already been taken up. The soil is rather heavy, and expensive to clear and drain. The Korijekup Estate is managed by Mr. Asche, and is well under cultivation, the oranges grown there being especially fine. There are good paddocks for horses to run in, and the next time our family steed is sent out to grass it will be to Korijekup. There are about 12 homesteads on the estate, occupied by different families. The pasture lands are very good, and the soil well adapted for strawberry and gooseberry growing. There are about 10 acres of these delicious fruits under cultivation. The manager’s house and men’s quarters are near the river, the latter a substantially built structure of slabs, made 60 years ago by convict labour for Sir James Stirling, to whom the land was originally granted (in lieu of payment of salary). In the winter time there are a great many trappers about, who gain a good living by trapping the native bear and opossum, for the skins of which they get 9s. per dozen in Perth. The grey skins, when edged with black, make beautiful rugs for a cold climate, but the winters in Western Australia are so mild that things of that kind are not required. In the early days the old coach-road to Perth from Bunbury passed near Korijekup, and where there were formerly only halting-places many flourishing farms now stand. The land about there is very suitable for dairying, the grass being green all the year round; the soil is brown loam, interspersed with rich black swamps, and suitable for intense culture.

Another 15 miles brought me to Collie Station, where I took the branch train to the Collie coalfields. Until recently these fields have been somewhat neglected, but are now coming into great favour, the coal got there having been proved to be of excellent quality, and now being extensively used. The Government have decided to use it on the railways, and many of the shipping merchants trading to different places have also signified their intention of using it. The Smelting Works at Fremantle are following suit; householders are consuming it largely, and I can state from my own experience that it is excellent coal, which never goes out, but burns to the last bit, just leaving clean brown dust behind. It will in time be a mine of wealth to Western Australia and constitute a great industry, making work for thousands of coal-miners, for the deposits of coal are almost limitless. Bores have been used in different parts of the field, and have proved the existence of enormous bodies of coal. The Collie coal-mine has recently been bought from the Collie Company by Mr. Zeb Lane, for the British Westralia Syndicate, and is now called the Collie Proprietary Coalfields of Western Australia.

Collie is a very pleasant little town, with some hotels, several stores, and many snug and pretty dwellings. One usually thinks of a coal-mining town as an uninteresting, grimy place, but Collie is nothing of the kind. In the midst of a magnificent jarrah forest, at an elevation of 600 feet above sea-level, this place has, I imagine, a brilliant future before it. The air is delightfully bracing; the sea breeze blows in from the coast, and in the near future, when the gardens now being planted by the men on their residential plots have come to maturity, the miners will be able, after their work underground, to sit under their own vine or fig-tree and enjoy the pipe of peace. This is not a mere form of words, but will be solid fact, for the ground is so good that, beside containing coal underneath, it will grow all kinds of products on its fertile flats and valleys.

Many of the men are making very comfortable homes for themselves; they can see that the field is permanent, and that they may hope to remain here. Collie will, I predict, be in the future one of the principal towns of the colony.

CHAPTER IX

Bunbury—Exploring Days—The Estuary—Early Times—Whaling—Native murder—Mr. Layman—Retribution—Pasture Land—Robert Scott—Old Residents.

Paper Bark Tree

Bunbury is 13 miles from Collie, and is the terminus of this line of railway. In passing through Picton, 4 miles before you come to Bunbury, you can see the homestead of the Forrest family. It is a picturesque-looking old house on a little hill with a pretty brook running below, and the surroundings are very beautiful. Mr. William Forrest, the ex-Premier’s father, who recently passed away at the ripe age of 80 years, arrived in this colony by the ship Trusty in 1842, and first settled at Australind. Some three years later he erected a mill on what has since been called Mill Point, on the banks of the estuary near Bunbury, and in 1849 removed to Picton, where he resided until the day of his death. Mr. Forrest bore with indomitable courage many misfortunes, such as the burning of his flour-mill, the engine and stones of which were afterwards removed to Bunbury, and formed the nucleus of the well-known Koombanah Mill, now owned by Mr. Robert Forrest, his sixth son. The above-mentioned mill was the first water flour-mill in the South-West, and was erected in 1849. Mr. Forrest dammed up the Preston river and utilised it for the purpose of his business. You may be sure that he was particularly proud of his explorer sons, John and Alick, and also proud of the fact that one was Premier of the colony, and the other Mayor of Perth. Sir John made three exploring expeditions, and it is amusing to hear what “Tommy Pierre,” one of the natives who accompanied him, said at the banquet held in honour of the explorers’ return to Perth: “Well, gentlemen, I am very thankful to get back to Swan river, Bunbury, Fremantle; I thought that we never get back again. Many a time I go into camp, going through desert places, and say, ‘Master Forrest, where the devil are you going to? Master Forrest, I give you one pound to take me back.’ Master say: ‘Hush! What are you talking about? I’ll take you right through to Adelaide,’ and I hush. I always obey him; I only black fellow, you know, but I am all thankful; I always very glad to see white fellow around me.” The South Australian Register, of August 27, 1870, says: “On Saturday morning, the band of explorers from Western Australia, under the leadership of Mr. John Forrest, reached Adelaide. They were escorted to Government House by a number of horsemen, and the crowd heartily cheered them as they came up. These men are heroes in the highest sense of the term. The expedition, as many in Western Australia still remember, was organised through the instrumentality of Governor Weld.” The late Premier, who a year before had piloted an expedition to search for the remains of the explorer Leichhart, readily acquiesced in the suggestions that were put forward by the then Governor of the colony, and on March 30, 1870, accompanied by Mr. Alex. Forrest as second in command; H. M’Larty, a police constable; W. H. Osborne, farrier, &c., and two natives, he set out for Perth. The party followed the course taken out by Eyre in 1841, but in an opposite direction, and although they did not experience the difficulties that Eyre encountered, the troubles were numerous enough. On March 18, 1874, Sir John Forrest led another expedition to Adelaide. From Perth his party proceeded to Champion Bay, and the wild, untrodden desert was safely crossed. On November 3, the explorers reached Adelaide, and at a banquet which was given in their honour a few days afterwards, the Premier of South Australia (the Hon. Arthur Blyth), speaking of the leader, said: “Here we have the likeness of a man who knew not what fear was, because he never saw fear—who carried out the thorough principle of the Briton, in that he always persevered to the end.”

LADY FORREST