SIMPLEX MUNDITIIS

SIMPLEX MUNDITIIS

GENTLEMEN

NEW-YORK
THE DE VINNE PRESS
MDCCCXCI

Copyright, 1891, by the
Simplex Munditiis Publishing Co.

TO
ALL WHO ADMIRE
PERFECT DRESS AND CORRECT SOCIAL HABITS
This Book is Dedicated
IN THE HOPE THAT
THE PRINCIPLES IT TEACHES MAY PROMOTE
STRICT OBSERVANCE OF THE
USAGES OF SOCIETY.

PART I
DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Dress is the embodiment of taste and refinement. A man looks, and is, distinguished, when he shows simple elegance in his dress. It is not necessary to have wealth in order to dress well. With judgment and economy, one can be something of a dresser. This book is but a guide for men who desire to dress, and are perplexed by the multitude of things there are to wear, and the ever-changing styles.

When a thing becomes vulgarly popular, then, if you wish to be in dress, as well as manners, a gentleman, cast it aside, and seek something newer and less common.

Dressing may be carried to any extent, but it is not good taste to do so.

A gentleman is conspicuous for one thing only—his good taste. Above all dress are manners and grace. Without these, one can never be a gentleman.

In the other part of this work, manners and customs may be studied.

A gentleman is a man of taste, culture, and refinement.

No man is a gentleman who merely does the acts of a gentleman. He must show good breeding—in dress, manners, and conversation.

His dress is the perfection of raiment. His manner is grace and ease personified. His conversation, knowledge itself.

Proud, indeed, may the man be who can write after his name—gentleman.

Let “Simplex Munditiis” be your motto for dress.

Each person must remember one thing: that, to be distingué in dress, he must dress, as regards material, richly; and, as to pattern of cloth, plainly. In other words, simple elegance shows the gentleman.

Everything you wear must be immaculate.

There are three dress divisions of the day:

Morning wear.

Afternoon dress.

Evening dress.

The first may be worn any time of the day before 6 P. M., though it belongs to the morning.

The second is not worn before 2 P. M.

The third is not worn before 6 P. M.

The attire for all athletic games, sports, amusements, for the clergy, and gentlemen in the army and navy, it is not within the province of this work to treat of. In fact, we treat of only that which is worn by a gentleman at home or abroad, in summer or winter, when mingling in society.

MORNING WEAR
WORN ANY TIME OF DAY

Indoors or outdoors, morning wear consists of the following, as the tastes of the wearer may dictate.

The Head.—The black felt derby is the proper hat for morning. The light brown in derbys is a pleasing change for spring, summer, or fall wear. But never be without a black derby, as it is the hat worn when not in formal dress.

A derby is never worn with a frock body-coat, a cutaway body-coat, a Cowes body-coat, on a dress body-coat. It belongs entirely to the walking or sack body-coat.

Have your hats made to order. You will be better pleased in the end.

The derby is proper and becoming to men of all ages. I would caution any one against wearing such derbys as are of a pearl, gray, drab, slate, and cigar browns. These are all in bad taste. The slouch felt hat is ignored by gentlemen. If a man desires light shades of derbys, then let him have them the same shade as the suit he wears them with.

The Hand.—Gloves for morning wear should be a dark tan, and made of kid.

Heavy weight for the winter months, and very light for summer.

Raw seams and arrow-back stitching is the style. Generally one button only on wrist.

The leading furnishing shops are recommended for gloves.

If possible, have your gloves made to order; you are then sure of a perfect fit.

Never wear a glove after it becomes soiled. It is just as bad as having dirty hands.

The Foot.—Calf-skin, patent leather, and enamel leather, are used for walking shoes. They should be made with moderately thick soles, taper at the toes, and lace.

It is best to have shoes made to order. Nothing about a man’s dress is so quickly noticed as ill-fitting shoes.

The Body.—The body-coat: This is a black sack body-coat, either double or single breasted. Both styles are correct. The materials used are thibets, cheviots, and black serges. At present they are made with four buttons, very wide collars, and very long in the body.

The waistcoat: This always matches the body-coat in material and pattern. Likewise, it may be double or single breasted. It is not necessary, in this respect, for it to match the body-coat.

Trousers: These may be of any material and pattern. They may match the material of the body-coat, or not, as the taste of the wearer may dictate. It is better taste to wear dark trousers with morning wear. See that your trousers have the proper cut, and fit perfectly. This is at once the most difficult to fit, and the ugliest part—if ill-fitting—of the attire for men. Therefore, give it the most attention. In order to have them cut correctly you must rely on the fashion-plate and its accompanying directions. Insist on your directions being followed by the tailor.

There is also the cutaway suit for morning wear. This is worn mostly by elderly and heavily built men. It consists of a cutaway body-coat four buttons, waistcoat single-breasted, and trousers. These three pieces are always of the same material and pattern. The same things are worn with this as with the sack body-coat.

Heavy cloths for winter and light weights for summer wear.

The sack body-coat becomes all men, tall or short, thin or stout, old or young.

Fancy serge waistcoats, also fine linen waistcoats, and sashes in summer, may be worn with the sack body-coat.

Never wear trousers and waistcoat of one pattern, and body-coat another; it is exceeding bad taste.

Suits, perfectly correct and very elegant, are made of selected materials.

The sack body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers are always, in this case, from the same piece of goods. Some beautiful materials of light shades are made for summer wear. For winter wear darker and slightly heavier materials are used.

A Morning Promenade Dress.—This consists of frock body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers. These three pieces are always cut from the same material and pattern. The body-coat and waistcoat may be single or double-breasted.

Only light shades or patterns of cloths are used. Never have this promenade dress in black. The correct head covering is the black silk top-hat with this promenade dress.

AFTERNOON DRESS
WORN AFTER TWO P. M.

The Head.—A black silk top-hat. Always of the latest pattern, either Paris, London, or New-York make. All are equally stylish. This hat, above all others, should be made to order; this being necessary if you desire a fit both becoming and comfortable.

In this city spring and summer have light weights. For fall and winter a slightly heavier hat is made. This is the only proper hat for afternoon dress in summer or winter.

The Hand.—Light or dark tan kid walking gloves are worn. The back stitching may be black silk or same shade as the glove. One or two buttons.

Undressed kid gloves, either light or dark shades, are also worn especially for afternoon receptions.

The Foot.—The leathers used are patent, and enamel. Laced Bluchers are worn at this time of day. For summer wear, the same, or the same leathers made in ties. Again, I caution you to pay particular attention to the fit, and have them made to order. You exercise your own taste as to the style the shoe is made in.

The Body.—The proper body-coat is the black cutaway. This is now made with three buttons, and wide collar cut low, single-breasted. The material used is diagonal. This body-coat should be of light weight, as it is a dress body-coat. French Thibets are also used.

The Waistcoat.—This is made of the same material as the body-coat. It may be double or single breasted. The waistcoat should be cut low in front, that the large puff scarf may be well exposed. Four buttons.

Waistcoats may be of selected materials such as fancy serges and fine linens. In summer white or black silk sashes are worn.

The Trousers.—These should be carefully selected and well-fitted. The material and pattern should go well with black, as this is always the color of the afternoon body-coat.

Any pattern, checks, stripes, etc., may be worn for afternoon dress. Never wear loud patterns; they are exceedingly bad taste and rowdyish.

Never wear trousers of the same material as the body-coat or waistcoat, as it is not afternoon dress.

Very light patterns may be worn in summer. In winter slightly darker patterns are worn.

If pockets are placed in trousers they are apt to be used; this spoils the set of the cloth around the hips. Therefore leave them out if possible.

As a rule, the bottoms of trousers should be turned up—about two inches—while walking in the street. Of course, on a clear day this is unnecessary.

Frock Body-coat.—This is the formal afternoon dress body-coat. In Paris the men wear no other.

It is never worn before 4.30 P. M.

It is worn at day weddings, at teas, receptions, and on the promenade.

The material used is the same as in a cutaway body-coat. Always black goods.

The same things are worn with a frock body-coat as with a cutaway body-coat.

It is made single or double breasted.

The wardrobe of a gentleman is never complete without one or more frock body-coats.

The frock body-coat is always worn buttoned. It is worn in summer, but always with a waistcoat.

The cutaway body-coat is worn buttoned in winter, and may sometimes be worn with rolled back collar in summer.

There is also a double-breasted cutaway body-coat, three buttons, always black. This is worn more for promenading than anything else.

This can be worn in winter—on mild days—without a top-coat or greatcoat. The waistcoat matches it and the trousers are selected.

Sometimes, for promenading in the spring, a frock body-coat with waistcoat and trousers of the same piece of goods is worn. In this case the material is some smooth, light-colored pattern.

Again, only a black silk top-hat can be worn with this frock suit.

This suit is worn without a greatcoat or light overcoat.

Afternoon dress is worn at day weddings, afternoon receptions, teas, matinées, exhibitions of all kinds where ladies are present, and when promenading with ladies.

EVENING DRESS
WORN AFTER SIX P. M.

This is the culmination of grandeur in the dress of gentlemen. Bulwer’s novel “Henry Pelham” is responsible for the almost complete blackness of the attire for this otherwise gayest time of day.

The Head.—The black silk top-hat is supreme and only here, as in afternoon dress. Same style as that worn for afternoon dress. The crush opera-hat is entirely out of style in this city. When indoors, the top-hat should be carried in the left hand. The exceptions to this rule are dances, evening receptions, and dinners.

The Hand.—The white kid glove goes with evening dress, and must always be worn with it, except at or during a dinner.

The back stitching may be self or black.

Pearl or gray shades are sometimes worn. No other covering should be worn on the hand after 6 P. M.

If one travels through the streets and on the cars, the best glove to wear—and perfectly proper—is the black kid glove, with black stitching, worn only while en route.

Never wear tan-colored or any light shades of gloves with evening dress, indoors or out-of-doors. It is bad taste, and looks, as it is, shoddy. You may wear white evening gloves at any time or place after 6 P. M., and you are not complete in your dress unless you so do.

The Foot.—Dancing pumps are little worn in this city, in fact they are passé. The climate is such, a man could never be out of his carriage, if he wore pumps, without risk of a catarrh.

The proper shoe is made of patent leather, button, kid uppers, and no tips. This is the shoe for evening dress.

Have them made to order, as that is the only way to secure a perfect fit.

The Body.—The evening dress body-coat is always of a black material.

A radical change has taken place in the material used. Dress for evening wear, especially among young men, no longer consists of the heavy, stiff broadcloths and doeskins, but is now made of fine diagonals, of an almost silky texture.

This is the body-coat above all others. Much care should be given the fitting and style. They are made now with shawl collar, and silk lined. Never wear any kind of binding on the body-coat. Do not wear buttons and buttonholes on the sleeve of body-coat. The styles, changing each year, should be followed minutely.

In evening dress one must appear a gentleman, if it is in him at all.

The Waistcoat.—Materials used, same as body-coat, or white silks and black silks. Patterns selected as taste directs. Of course the waistcoat is confined strictly to black or white.

It may be three or four buttons; double or single breasted. It may be low or high. Never wear linen waistcoats for evening dress.

The Trousers.—Black, and always the same material as the body-coat. As much care is given to the set and fit, as to that of the body-coat. Leave out pockets. Wide, black, silk-braided braid is worn on the outside of trouser-legs. Width of legs, medium.

The Cowes or Tuxedo Body-coat.—This is for informal evening and home wear. It is made of the same material as the dress body-coat. Shawl collar. The same things are worn with it as with the dress body-coat. It is worn at home, to informal dinners, the club, and the theater.

For Sunday evenings this is worn in place of the dress body-coat, with dress waistcoat, dress trousers, and black satin cravat. Again, only the top-hat is worn with the Tuxedo body-coat.

Knee-Breeches.—These may be worn in place of dress trousers at any grand ball, reception, or soirée. They are black silk or black satin, or same material as dress body-coat.

In Paris and London they are much worn. Patent leather pumps and black silk stockings are worn. This is the only change in evening dress, when knee-breeches are worn.

Of course, in this attire you must always drive in a closed carriage.

Flowered or figured colored waistcoats, double or single breasted, may be worn; white or black preferred. The dress body-coats may also be in colors as well as black. An elegant attire, such as this, is to be worn for grand formal evening dress.

THE OVERCOAT

Greatcoat.—This is a heavy greatcoat, with or without a cape, as fashion or taste may decide. Double or single breasted, long or short. It is worn during the day only, either over morning wear or afternoon dress.

It is most fashionable and elegant when made of some black or dark blue material.

The very latest in this greatcoat is made thus: very long—five inches below knee—no fit, without seam in middle of back—broad shawl collar of black velvet, single-breasted, dark blue box-cloth. It is shoulder-lined with black silk. For afternoon dress wear only.

One may follow his own taste in selecting a material for this day greatcoat.

This is made to wear during the coldest weather. It should be removed immediately on going indoors.

Light Overcoat.—For fall and spring wear. This is box cut, made of a light weight material.

The overcoat for cool days and evening wear, as over evening dress in summer, is of some selected black material. The day overcoat or afternoon walking-coat is of some light pattern, selected according to taste of wearer. These overcoats are now cut very short.

These overcoats are worn over morning wear or afternoon dress, particularly the light shades over the latter.

Driving Overcoat.—This is a box-coat cut long or short. Double or single-breasted. The color should be light, as it will not show dust.

Heavy material is used for winter and light for summer driving.

The Riding Top-coat.—This is a short English box-coat. The material is soft and of medium weight. The color may be light or dark.

The Raglan.—“Lord Chumly,” Inverness, or sleeveless, greatcoat for evening wear.

This is the only greatcoat to wear over evening dress.

It is always black, and with a large, full-length cape.

There are no sleeves, the cape covering the arms completely.

This is the perfect greatcoat to wear over evening dress, as removing and placing on can be accomplished without disturbing in any way the dress.

This greatcoat makes up for the ugliness of the day overcoats in the graceful appearance it gives the wearer.

It is worn at night only, in the carriage, or on the street. It is removed on going indoors.

Ulsters, fur greatcoats, and greatcoats with fur collars and cuffs, may be worn for very cold weather. They are for day wear only.

The Mackintosh.—This is made in any pattern; the inner lining being rubber. With or without cape. Double or single breasted. Light weights for summer and heavy for winter wear.

It is worn by day only. It may be worn with morning wear or afternoon dress. In the latter a top-hat should never be worn with a mackintosh. Only a derby is worn.

In all cloudy, damp, or wet weather the mackintosh appears.

It is not necessary to carry an umbrella.

The mackintosh should be worn very long, and rather loose in fit.

You may follow the fashion-plate as regards the style your greatcoat or overcoat is to be made in.

You will discuss with your cutter the correct thing in seams, linings, buttons, and pockets. These things are constantly changing, and therefore have no fixed rule.

Covered buttons are worn only on light walking overcoats and evening greatcoats.

ATTIRE FOR RIDING, DRIVING, TRAVELING, YACHTING, AND LOUNGING

RIDING

The Head.—Black derby for winter. Brown derby for summer.

A cord is attached to the hat, which may be loosened and made fast to a body-coat button.

Same style of derby as that used for morning wear. The silk hat may be worn for formal riding when without the top-coat.

The Hand.—Dark tan gloves or gauntlets, same as morning wear.

The Foot.—Riding boots or shoes are worn, according to taste of wearer.

The leathers used are patent or enamel.

Spurs of nickel or silver plate are worn.

The crop is always carried. This is silver mounted, and any selected wood.

The Body.—A four-button, single-breasted cutaway of any selected material and pattern—not black—is the proper body-coat. Very short skirts. Waistcoat same, or selected material. High cut; single-breasted.

Trousers.—They may be long, with straps.

They may be short—just below knee—buttoned at side and baggy above knee. Riding boots or leggings are worn with the knee-breeches, while with the trousers laced shoes are worn. The leggings are made to button, strap, or hook. The most stylish leggings are of the same material as the breeches.

Trousers or breeches should be of some light pattern; material should be strong. They are lined on the seat and inner side of legs with chamois skin.

For evening rides, as in academies, the black silk top-hat, white suéde gloves, single-breasted, black, cutaway body-coat, and strap trousers of the same material. Spurs and crop may be worn.

For elderly men the black body-coat and strap trousers may be worn during the day.

DRIVING

Morning wear is worn for morning drives.

Afternoon drives, if formal, afternoon dress is worn.

The same rule holds good when you handle the ribbons, as when the coachman occupies the box.

The driving overcoat is only worn in the box seat.

TRAVELING

Morning wear is the proper dress for all travel, be it on ocean or land.

Sack suits, double or single breasted, are exceedingly stylish and comfortable. Dark colored material is doubtless the best, as it does not show the dust and wear of travel. Heavy cloths for winter and light weights for summer travel.

YACHTING

This is worn on board ship any time of year. For visiting on shore, a day or so, it may be worn, if your temporary home is the yacht. Heavy material for winter, and light weights for summer.

Head.—The proper head apparel is the yachting cap. This may be made in white or blue flannel, serge, or white canvas.

The yachting cap is for morning, afternoon, or evening wear, in port or at sea.

The Hand.—For all formal affairs on board ship, white suéde gloves are worn. In winter or summer, tan kid gloves may be worn with yachting attire.

Foot.—Either a blue or white canvas laced shoe or tie, with rubber soles, for day wear.

For summer evening wear, white suéde or canvas ties. For the same in winter, evening dress-shoes.

Body.—For day wear, the double-breasted, sack body-coat. This may be blue or white flannel, or serges in blue or white. Brass buttons are generally used.

Waistcoat.—This may match the body-coat in material and color, and cut, or not, as the wearer desires.

Trousers.—These always match the body-coat in material and color.

White canvas suits may be worn, but they are coarse and clumsy.

White trousers may also be worn with a blue body-coat.

For formal occasions, evening wear on a yacht consists of evening dress, as on land.

The silk negligé shirt is worn for day wear, if preferred to linen.

The ties for day wear are four-in-hands and cravats, self-tying.

These are in silk, either white, black, or blue, flowered, figured, or solid colors.

De Joinvilles, also, tied in bow knots, are worn.

LOUNGING

This dress belongs strictly to the summer months; it is never worn in the city.

The Head.—For day wear there is the white split straw, with white or black silk bands.

Also, the yachting cap, in white or black. This is made of flannel, or a material matching the lounging suit.

These hats are worn for tennis, walking, driving, riding, day receptions, lawn parties, etc. However, these hats are never to be worn in the city.

The Hand.—White suéde gloves are worn with lounging suits, when walking or driving.

The Foot.—White canvas, white suéde, tan or white buckskin, and patent leather ties, are worn with lounging suits.

For tennis, and games on the lawn, canvas, or suéde, or buckskin shoes, or ties, with either felt or rubber soles, are used.

Have these shoes fit, and look as neat as possible.

The Body.—First the material—this may be serge or flannel—though the latter is out, for the reason that it is more heating than serge—these are always full white.

It consists of a long or short sack body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers. The body-coat may be single or double breasted.

The waistcoat may match the body-coat in cut and material or not. Fancy patterns may be used.

Trousers are always the same material and color as the body-coat.

Have the cut loose, and almost flowing.

The trousers may have a stripe at the side. No pockets.

Lounging suits may also be made up in some selected pattern, as small checks or narrow black stripes. But there is nothing so rich as the solid white lounging suit.

The sash or kummerbund.—The length is from four to five yards. Always tie your sash—never wear those cheap, common made-ups.

A sash may be worn any time of day. The material is always silk. Never wear any but solid colors. Black silks and white silks are the most elegant and correct.

Sashes of maroon or dark blue are sometimes worn. The ends hang over the left hip, and should be evenly tied. The sash is worn with a lounging suit, morning wear, afternoon dress, and evening dress.

The white sash is worn with a white lounging suit and evening dress only.

The negligé shirt is made of silk, or cheviots. However, this is no longer worn by young gentlemen of fashion.

A word about this shirt—it is doubtless very comfortable, and can be worn longer than linen, but it is not as cool as linen, nor does it look as well about the neck.

HOUSE WEAR

The formal dress is the same as that worn at any other house.

In the privacy of your rooms, however, you change this attire for something that is loose and comfortable.

Sack body-coats of selected materials are used. The trousers are of some black or blue material, as selected.

There is also the smoking jacket and the poker jacket—these are in many varieties of material and pattern.

Again, we have the short and the long dressing-gowns. There are many patterns to choose from.

Before and after the bath, the bath-robe is put on. This differs from the silk dressing-gown in being made of Turkish toweling. No part of man’s attire is more brilliant or beautiful than this robe. The comfort experienced in wearing is only equaled by its delicate and beautiful colors.

For the feet we have the slipper; this may be any leather and style your taste desires. Slippers are also made to match the bath-robe in material and pattern.

You must not wear any of these things out of the privacy of your own apartments.

For a lunch at home you would wear morning wear; a reception or tea, afternoon dress; evening affairs, evening dress.

It is as necessary—in fact, it is due—when acting the part of the host to look your best as when you are a guest.

When you dine at home evening dress is always required.

SLEEPING ATTIRE

These are pajamas—consisting of a loose fitting sack coat, and loose fitting trousers.

The material and pattern are selected as the wearer desires.

Light weights for summer, and heavy for winter. Fine linen, silks, and cheviots are used.

LINEN AND KERCHIEFS

This consists of the white linen shirt. It should always be made to order, if a fit is desired.

The shirt opens in front only. You may have two or three buttonholes in the bosom.

The collar and cuffs are attached. Never wear detachable collars and cuffs.

This shirt with the plain bosom is worn for morning wear, afternoon dress, evening dress, or any other wear during the day. The same style of shirt is worn winter or summer.

Very elegant shirts are made for evening dress, consisting of embroidered bosoms or frills of linen. With each change of wear the linen should also be changed.

At least three changes a day are made.

The style of the collar. This may be very high, or medium, as your taste directs.

The cuffs should extend to the first thumb-joint. Cuffs are made with round or square edges.

The high, or standing, collar is worn with morning wear, afternoon dress, evening dress, and all other dress.

The Handkerchief.—This is of pure white linen, with white borders.

Embroidered or not, as taste dictates.

The same style is carried with morning wear, afternoon dress, or evening dress, or any other wear.

The upper left outside pocket is the place to carry it, except in evening dress, when it is carried in the left or right side upper inside waistcoat pocket.

The handkerchief of silk is carried with evening dress only. It is carried in the right hand while dancing, and worn in the shirt front.

It may be any pattern desired. White silk is always the body, the border only being colored.

The neckerchief. This is of silk, selected as to color and pattern. This is worn around the neck with greatcoat during cold weather.

It is not a good thing to wear, as far as health goes.

It is not necessary to the stylish dresser.

A gold pin may be worn in a neckerchief.