Through the
Black Hills
and
Bad Lands
of South Dakota

By
P. D. Peterson

J. Fred Olander Company
Pierre, S. D.

Copyright, 1929
P. D. Peterson

To my mother who has been an inspiration and a guide for me throughout my early training, ever helping her family to see and acquire the highest ideals possible; and to my wife who has assisted me in the compilation and revision of this book, the following pages are affectionately dedicated.

THE SPIRIT OF THE WEST
By Edwin H. Blashfield
This painting is in the Governor’s reception room in the S. D. Capitol building at Pierre.

FOREWORD

This book is not a history, although it contains some historical accounts where such are necessary to bring out the importance of the scenery described. It makes no attempt at being a technical guide of any sort, although the treatment of various animals, trees, flowers, and minerals is as near accurate as a tourist could hope to obtain.

The main purpose of this book is to give a chronological or itinerary account of what may be seen in the Black Hills. It should acquaint the tourist with the things of interest to see on his trip. It should save him the chagrin of passing a point of interest without having known he did so. It should, further, give him a souvenir of the scenes and experiences of the trip. But one of the central purposes of this treatise is to give the school children and the grown-ups of South Dakota a picture of their own Black Hills and Bad Lands.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter Page [I Introduction] 9 [II State Capitol] 13 [III The Badlands] 21 [IV Rapid City] 35 [V Cement Plant] 40 [VI Crystal Cave] 43 [VII Sturgis] 48 [VIII Belle Fourche] 52 [IX Spearfish] 60 [X Pine Crest Camp] 69 [XI Lead] 71 [XII Deadwood] 83 [XIII Pactola, Silver City, and Camp Wanzer] 90 [XIV Hill City and Keystone] 93 [XV Needles Road, Sylvan Lake Harney Peak and the Gorge] 101 [XVI Custer] 125 [XVII Hot Springs] 145 Appendix Page [I Mountains] 161 [II Elevations] 163 [III Industries] 165 [IV Fishing] 167 [V Streams] 169 [VI Camps and Camping] 171 [VII New Developments] 179 [VIII Shorter Routes] 183

Harney Peak above the clouds. This is the highest point in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains.Photo by Beard

CHAPTER I
Introduction

“The Wonderland of America” is not an overstatement of the scenic beauty of the Black Hills of South Dakota. One cannot but marvel at the endless new experiences that he has each day, whether it be on a three days’ or a three weeks’ trip through the Black Hills. In the shorter trip he will take in the more prominent points, scarcely departing from the main arterial highways. On the longer tour he will drive a thousand to fifteen hundred miles through deep canyons, up to the mines, and to many other places which at first would seem almost impenetrable but which upon inquiry will be found readily accessible. The more extensive trip should be the one selected if at all possible, for it leaves an impression on a person’s mind that cannot be erased by time or by any amount of traveling in any part of the world.

Birdseye view of Sylvan Lake
Rise Photo

The vast, impressive grandeur of the whole, gained by the views from mountain tops, from the floors of canyons, and from various other vantage points cannot help but leave with one a feeling of awe, a feeling that the Creator of these great magnificent sturdy formations, towering toward the sky, penetrating the very clouds and fringed and capped by element defying monarchs of the evergreen family is a powerful Being. They leave with a person a feeling of safety under the protecting guidance of a Being powerful enough to create what lies before him.

All through the “Hills” this feeling of the marvelous greatness of the structures, and the intricate workmanship found in them grows upon a person, until when he speeds eastward (or westward) at the close of the trip with an occasional backward look, he cannot help feeling that his mind has been broadened and expanded proportionate to the impressiveness of what he has seen.

No attempt will be made in this volume at a systematic cataloging of the various things of interest to be seen. The account will be strictly chronological, in order, just as it was experienced on a trip through the “Hills.” Preceding the Black Hills accounts will come an account of a tour through the Great Badlands of South Dakota. A trip to the “Hills” is not complete without a visit to the Badlands, and the impressiveness of the latter is scarcely less than that of its neighbor. It is well to plan for this part of the trip before entering the “Hills.” Then, if it rains the Badlands must be postponed until the close, for the roads are somewhat bad when wet.

A peak in Cedar Pass
O’Neill Photo

This Monument marks the center of the state of South Dakota and the approximate center of North America. It stands along the highway north of Pierre

Rotunda, Capitol, Pierre

CHAPTER II
State Capitol

No matter whether the entrance to South Dakota is made from the north, south, east, or west, all of the main roads are gravel surfaced. Many an Eastener will complain of the driving on these roads, but one may drive up to fifty or sixty miles per hour on them with comparative safety, with the average car. This is far beyond the legal limit of the state. Rain and other adverse weather conditions will not affect traveling. This holds true for most of the main highways in the “Hills.”

Corridor and Grand Stairway, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.

Over these gravelled highways, probably U. S. 14 or U. S. 16 we speed until we hit Pierre, the State capitol, located in the center of South Dakota. Here it might be well to stop for a few hours or overnight. The State welcomes everyone to a trip through the State Capitol. This trip is interesting and in many ways highly enlightening.

Governor’s Reception Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.

Supreme Court Room, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.

The Capitol, “up on the hill,” is probably the first building of Pierre to catch the eye when entering the city from any direction. Its great wings and massive dome cause it to stand out, and its height adds to its conspicuousness.

Capitol Avenue, coming from the east runs true with the world. It leads thus past the Governor’s residence to a beautiful arch bridge over the outlet from what is known as Capitol Lake.

On this placid lake, surrounded by splendid lawn, swans float gracefully and various other aquatic forms feed with varying degrees of industry.

From here Capitol Avenue turns in a north-westerly direction gradually ascending to the Capitol, two blocks distant. The Capitol lies parallel to the avenue, being on the north-east side, facing the south-west. It is surrounded with beautiful trees, flowers, and an exceptionally beautiful lawn.

After climbing the long flight of stone steps (the whole building is of white stone), we enter the rotunda of the Capitol. There we are greeted by a beautiful Carrara marble interior, set off by statues and pictures of those responsible for the early progress of South Dakota. From the exact center of the building we may look up into the gigantic dome fringed with remarkable paintings above exquisite balconies and alcoves.

Grand Stairway, State Capitol, Pierre, S. D.

To the left of the entrance we step into the main reception room of the Governor. There we see that famous oil painting “The Spirit of Progress,” by Blashfield, covering the entire north-west wall. Into the room, if our visit were in 1927 or 1928, would come Governor Bulow, who greeted President Coolidge to his summer white house. Governor Bulow never failed to extend a warm welcome to the visitors at the Capitol. His words delivered at a high school track meet in 1928 are typical of him. “We are all competitors in contest of life. Upon our sportsmanship, fairness, and hard training depends our position at the finish.”

From the Governor’s suite we go to the office of the Secretary of State, and thence through the offices of the Commissioner of Public Lands, and that of the State Treasurer.

In the other wing we see the rooms of the Supreme Court of South Dakota, the offices of the judges, and the great Supreme Court Law Library.

Senate Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.

House of Representatives Chamber, Capitol Building, Pierre, S. D.

Now we descend the stairs to the lower floor. Here we find case after case lining the entire basement, filled with Indian costumes, stone instruments, arrow heads, war uniforms, and weapons of historical importance, stuffed birds of S. D., bones of animals, present and past, the first bag of sugar produced in South Dakota (encased in a silk bag) and various other curios. On the walls are large framed pictures of many of the early heroes and state officers of South Dakota.

On this floor are the offices of the state Railroad Commission, Attorney General, Public Examiner, Superintendent of Schools, Rural Credits Board, Library Commission, Historical Society, and State Sheriff. Under the steps is a lunch counter and confectionery stand, and in front of it an information desk. Last but not least, in the north-west end of the wing stands the gigantic moose.

On the second floor we find the rooms of the state Senate and House of Representatives, with adjoining lobbies and other rooms.

On the third floor are balconies to the legislative rooms, and various offices, including the automobile license department, the state banking department, state securities commission, and others.

From this floor a spiral stairway leads up, up, up, to the room above the inner dome. From the dome room one can see the mighty turbulent waters of the Missouri bubble and boil on their way. The great bridge is in full view, with the railway bridge beyond. The scenes from the “Capitol dome” are remarkable. A trip to Pierre would be incomplete without this part.

From the Capitol our trip takes us through the city of Pierre over the bridge to Fort Pierre where first evidences of white men in S. D. were found. A high flagpole now stands where the Verendrye Plate, planted in 1743, was found.

The Verendrye Plate, found on the bluffs above Fort Pierre, February 16, 1913. It was buried by La Verendrye, March 30, 1743, when he was exploring the land for France. This is the first evidence of white men in South Dakota.

See the plate in the corridor at the Capitol.

CHAPTER III
The Badlands

We cross the Missouri River on the morning of June 29th and speed along through comparatively new but highly productive agricultural land, through Hayes, Midland and Philip to Cottonwood. In Philip we find one of the most modern small cities of the state. It is worth stopping to see. When we arrive at Cottonwood, about three hours from Pierre, or a little less than one hundred ten miles, the weather seems favorable and the roads good so we turn south off U. S. highway 14. Only a few miles out of Cottonwood we look ahead and see the city-like elevations far in the distance. As we draw nearer this great wall of clay takes on a more artistic contour of multicolored towers, peaks, and walls, resembling ruins of ancient cities.

Castle Turrets Fuson Photo

Countless theories and possibilities enter one’s mind to account for these magnificent walls, rising directly from a few feet to several hundred feet from level country. The level plains are grass covered, but the walls are practically bare. They are of almost pure sandy clay, with a little soft shale in a layer near the top. They average from a hundred to five hundred feet in height and are composed of several colors each, some containing yellow, pink, orange and blue, others having still different colors. For the most part the colors are plain or washed, but some are very pronounced.

Other sections of the Badlands are depressions from the grassy flats, with enormous areas seemingly fallen straight down two to twenty feet, with perpendicular sides. The beds of these great depressions are bare yellow or white clay.

Theories of the formation of these structures include “sea bottom,” “erosion,” “volcanic eruptions,” etc.

Summit of Cedar Pass, Interior Canedy Photo

Seventeen miles from Cottonwood we drive through Cedar Pass into the Badlands. The road winds around and around, through depressions and through valleys between the great clay banks, ever leading upward. The grandeur of the enormous colored banks and walls would impress even the most barren minded person.

If one is coming over the C. B. H., (or A Y P.); (U. S. 16 to be specific), he must leave for S. D. No. 40 about fifteen miles west of Kadoka, and he will emerge at Cedar Pass the same as though he came from the north. The view is magnificent.

Finally the road gets narrow and precipitous. The passes become more crooked and the grades more steep. The road is bordered by profuse scrub cedar trees. There is a thrill in that drive! At first it looks dangerous, but the danger seems to minimize as we approach each more steep and more crooked and more narrow section. By taking it slowly the risk is small. (The road has since been improved.)

Amphitheatre of the Wilds. In the Bad Lands Canedy Photo

Vampire Peak in Cedar Pass, Interior. The entrance to the Big Bad Lands Canedy Photo

Studying the Bad Lands

Another Bad Lands Scene

We descend the south slope of the ridge, past the new Cedar Pass Camp, and drive five miles or so over a good road into Interior. On the way, however, we stop and walk for some distance among the hills. We find the clay to be hard and firm, resembling baked mud in texture. Each rain washes a little of the clay down, causing a gradual erosion through the years. This process has gradually uncovered the remains of life of this country at the time of its formation. We find a petrified tooth of some great animal. The tooth is about four inches long and two wide. Some distance farther we run across a mammoth rock formation embedded in the clay. It resembles and may have been the remains of a turtle six or seven feet in diameter, with head and feet protruding out of the bank. From these same environs scientists have taken great petrified skeletons of ancient mastodons, reptiles, birds and beasts of all shapes and sizes. We can easily imagine how these beasts got bogged down in this once soft, spongy ex-sea-bottom, there to remain through these centuries.

We spend more time than we had planned examining the place, so we find ourselves in Interior for the night. We pitch camp, and during the night receive our first rain on the trip. Our sympathy for the poor little mouse who had appropriated a little of the tent roof for his nest is not very pronounced.

The next morning we rise early. We hike to “Big Foot,” a high clay ridge south of town, and climb it. It proves much higher and more difficult to climb than first appearances indicate. The climb is a thriller, especially as the clay is a bit slippery this morning.

Manitou Mountain in the Bad Lands

We return for breakfast, stopping in a field on the way to examine a huge oil drilling rig which has been wrecked many years ago. It is made almost entirely of oak, some timbers being two feet square and very long. The main belt wheel is twelve feet in diameter, made also of wood. To us this is a sight.

Castle of Ancients, near ScenicCanedy Photo

The bacon and coffee are more than welcome when we return. After breakfast we strike camp and drive into town. There Palmer’s Curio shop attracts us for some time. We leave with several calcium silicate crystals and specimens of the world’s only sand crystals.

The most interesting person met on our trip is found in Interior. He is Mr. Henry Thompson, who runs a little souvenir stand called “The Wonderland.” He wears long, flowing white hair and a great flowing moustache of the same color. His acquaintance with the country dates back many a year.

No one going through Interior should miss him. He tells some very interesting tales of early days in the West. Recently a motion picture company used him in the role of the Patriarch Moses in the mountains. He gives us a rehearsal of the role he played and recounts the garb of animal skins he wore, and other interesting features of the adventure. We listen with open mouths, and find it difficult to tear ourselves away for the continuance of our journey.

Twenty-four miles west of Interior, after traveling through the scenic splendor of the Badlands we come upon a vast expanse of land covered with a crust of once molten rock about an inch thick, now all broken into fragments. The formation consists of two hardened layers of once molten rock, probably of calcium silicate composition, smooth on the outer edges and joined together by countless papilae, making the whole look like two layers joined by a porous center. There is no doubt in one’s mind, upon viewing it, that Satan must surely have had his headquarters here at some time or other.

Castle Rock in the Bad Lands, near ScenicCanedy Photo

We follow State Highway Number 40 through other Badland wonders five miles farther. The road is very good. At Scenic we visit the widely known Museum Filling Station. Here we see a beautiful and interesting collection of stones from the Black Hills. In fact the entire building is covered with rocks, fossils and other interesting things embedded in concrete. Prehistoric animal bones and Indian relics from the Badlands are within. The bones, the curious animals, the pictures, the petrified eggs, the skeletons, Indian relics and numerous other curios are remarkable.

The Alter in the Castles of the AncientsCanedy Photo

They have attracted people from throughout the world, not for a hasty examination but for extensive study. This place is one of the important places to see in the Badlands. One cannot afford to miss it under any circumstances.

The vicinity of Scenic is known to scientists as the greatest fossil field in the United States. Scenic is also an Indian trading post.

South of Scenic are some of the most spectacular examples of erosion in the United States. Some of the names assigned to them are: “Castle of the Ancients,” “The Altar of the Gods,” “Castle Rock,” “Castle Turrets,” “The Sphinx Twins,” “The Silent Sentinel,” “Amphitheater of the Wilds” and “The Devil’s Golf Course.” These remarkable formations almost hold us in reverent awe, so stupendous are they in their unusualness and grandeur.

LOWER ENTRANCE TO DILLON PASSCanedy Photo

“Hell’s Ten Thousand Acres,” from Scenic south are equal in some ways to the Grand Canyon of Colorado in their ruggedness. “Hell’s Sunken Gardens,” south also, surpasses in beauty and magnitude anything of its kind in the world.

Bad Lands Museum, Scenic

Wounded Knee Battlefield, the last stand of the Sioux, is also south of Scenic. Here hundreds of Indians, men, women and children, were massacred by the soldiers when they stubbornly resisted the coming of law and government to take from them their hunting grounds. These Indians were all buried in one long grave, marked now with a tall marble slab on which are chiseled the odd names of the Indian dead.

The management of the Museum Filling Station is very enthusiastic about the “Great Badlands.” They will furnish any additional information desired and will furnish guides at a reasonable cost to those who desire such in visiting the wonders to the south.

From Scenic, trail 40 leads on to Rapid City. Some of the finer views of the Badlands are found along this road.

On to Rapid City we drive, over an excellent dirt road. We stop on the Cheyenne River to eat our lunch. These little picnic grounds all help to make the trip a really enjoyable vacation. We must stop at the turn in the road for a drink of Nature’s purest nectar flowing through a huge fountain. This is just a few miles before we reach Rapid City.

A Bad Lands Scene

The Devil’s Golf Course, ScenicCanedy Photo

The Silent Sentinel, ScenicCanedy Photo

From Scenic to Rapid City is about forty-five miles. After leaving Scenic the silhouetted black mountains, soon come into view. They are visible in their magnificent grandeur, fifty miles distant, growing more distinct as they are approached. Upon nearing them, if one is familiar with the various peaks, he can pick each out and call it by name.

We reach Rapid City in the eastern foothills, at four o’clock. The School of Mines museum at the entrance to the city, also nationally and internationally known, is our first point of interest in the “Hills.”

The route taken

CHAPTER IV
Rapid City

The School of Mines Museum is not an enormous affair. It is contained in one large room belonging to the School of Mines.

The bones of prehistoric animals are probably the best known and most widely advertised part of the museum. This collection includes skulls, jaw bones, teeth, leg bones, and in fact whole skeletons of the prehistoric monsters. One cannot but wonder what life was like, and how these animals acted in the days when they lived. The size and contour of these skeletons are truly remarkable.

On the Cheyenne

In cases throughout the room are displayed a vast variety of minerals, ores, types of rock formations, replicas of famous diamonds, and numerous other curios. On the south wall is an American flag, weighing 400 pounds, made of Black Hills minerals. On the east wall are two excellent relief maps of gigantic proportions, showing relative heights in the Black Hills. Guns and various other relics adorn the walls. No visitor to the “Hills” can afford to miss this part of the trip. It may take one half hour to a day, depending on one’s interest in the displays, but the time is excellently spent.

Camp made

From the School we drive into Rapid City, and after a bit of shopping, on to the Municipal Tourist Camp. This camp is about four miles up Rapid Canyon west of the city.

By the time the tent is pitched and camp made a dinner does not meet an unwelcome reception. Why the camp stove should choose this time to balk is a still unanswered question. Somehow these appliances know when they can aggravate one the most.

Here in the Municipal Camp we receive a pleasant surprise. Instead of the expected camp grounds we find a beautiful spot for pitching our tent, “Old Swayback,” modern toilet facilities, a laundry with hot water, stores, and best of all an honest to goodness “swimmin hole” in Rapid Creek.

True to the spirit of the Black Hills, Rapid City Municipal Camp has its neat log cabin, with reading table, fireplace, electric lights, and other conveniences for its guests. Tourists are welcomed there at any and all times. These log cabins are a decided thrill to the traveler who is not familiar with them. Later in this account there will be a description of the typical log cabin.

The camp cots, in which we have so much confidence at first, have begun by this time to feel a bit hard, to seem a bit cold, and to afford a rather meager sort of rest. But here Yankee ingenuity might come into good play.

The desirability of light steel camp beds instead of the cots and the need of light mattresses becomes evident.

Sunday morning proves an excellent time to get acquainted with the habits of the Rapid Creek trout. Only three consent to being lured from their swim, however. The fishing is rather slow but nevertheless enjoyable. To a more experienced angler the luck is usually different.

Warren-Lamb Saw MillRise Photo

From fishing we turn to swimming. This proves to be a more lively sport. The water is fine, just a least bit cool. The current is the feature of this plunge. One no sooner gets out into it than he feels himself being pulled very rapidly downstream. The sensation is not exactly reassuring. In fact it frightens one. But it takes only a few strokes to get out of the swift water into more placid pools. This learned, it becomes pleasant to defy the current. Another surprise awaits. When one attempts to swim back to the side from which he entered, the current carries him past the precipitous rocks before he can pull himself out. No amount of trying results otherwise. This is almost terrifying. Fortunately, at this point a man happens along who is familiar with the pool. He shows us where there is a small quiet spot where the swimmer can climb up on the rocks without danger of being carried downstream. Again a precarious situation develops into a pleasure.

We wish to attend church, but have no clothing along except our camping equipment. This convinces us that we should have brought along some more respectable clothing for it will not be amiss on several occasions during the trip.

Rapid Canyon, near Dark Canyon Photo by V

After lunch we drive up Rapid Canyon to Lockhart Inn. We go up the mountainside to see the moss sculpturing by Mr. Lockhart called “A Miner’s Dream.” Then we start the ascent up the Canyon on foot. This is a climb that will pay one well. From Rapid Canyon we turn into Dark Canyon ascending by rock ledge paths and canyon floor through beautiful formations of nature’s handiwork. One cannot imagine the thrill, not only of the scenery but also the thrill of accomplishment, a hundred per cent pleasant that goes with this trip. Some of the sidelights of the trip are “Sitting Bull’s Kitchen,” “Victoria Falls,” (a beautiful waterfall), “Jungle of the Gods,” “Bridge of the Gods,” (a natural bridge formerly over the canyon but now fallen in), and “Bear Cave.” The picturesque grandeur of the panorama, the stupendous rocks, the great precipices, the straight tall trees, the swift, cold, clear streams and many other awe inspiring and pleasant experiences stamp themselves indelibly upon our minds. The experiences include climbing precipitous places, jumping and climbing over rocks, looking down over precipices hundreds of feet below, continually discovering something new to enjoy. The effect is invigorating, exhilarating, satisfying. The path is not dangerous at any place, though filled with thrills, especially on the paths built on ledges around the mountain. These are the rambles that mean most to vacationists, and unfortunately they are too often left out because of the time needed and the effort necessary to make them.

Rim Rock Highway in the Black HillsRise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.

CHAPTER V
Cement Plant

Monday morning we strike camp at 9:00 a. m. We drive into Rapid City, get our snapshots of the Badlands which had been finished there, again shop a bit, and drive out to the cement plant.

First, however, a word about Rapid City. It is a thriving little city on the eastern entrance to the Hills. The streets have a modern air to them, with occasional reminders of the days of the “West.” During the tourist season the city fairly teems with life. Prices are reasonable and the people are courteous. The city resembles those farther east for the most part, not being without the familiar Woolworth and Penny stores. But the relics of cowboy days are still in evidence, and specimens of fish and game, alive or mounted, are shown with no little pride.

The high school, where President Coolidge had his summer Capitol in 1927, is a place worth stopping to see.

The State cement plant is run by the State of South Dakota. It employs about 150 people. The plant consists of the quarries, the sheds for raw rock, chutes, power house, crushers, the hydrating and baking plant, the furnaces, the drying tanks, the sacking department, and the offices. Each of the buildings is very large. The raw rock shed holds thousands of tons of rock. Each of the ten storage or drying tanks holds 15,000 barrels of cement. The plant can turn out twenty car loads a day, with eight hundred to a thousand sacks to each car.

The men work nine hours each day and sometimes ten. The plant closed five months the first year, three the second, and this last year it closed but one month. When we visit it, it has more orders than it can fill. The South Dakota cement is a superior quality and is much in demand.

To the person interested in machinery the huge turbines and generators are very interesting. These powerful affairs taking up but little room, generate enough electrical power to run the whole enormous plant.

In going through the plant one starts at the raw rock sheds. Here the loading devices carry the stone over a conveyor into the crushers. From there the material goes, by various processes to be soaked and made into mud, mixed, dried in blast tubes by very intense heat and flame, crushed again, run into drying tanks, and finally sacked and loaded into boxcars.

There are two men, known as sackers who, with the use of machinery, can fill 15,000 to 20,000 sacks a day. They receive the empty sacks, tied by wire at the top, and only open in one toe. This open toe is slipped over a nozzle through which the cement pours into the sack suspended upside down, resting on a small scale. When the proper weight of cement has entered, the scale lets the bag down upon a conveyor belt and at the same time shuts off the cement in the nozzle.

South Dakota State Cement Plant, Rapid City

The flap inside the toe of the sack pulls across the hole closing the sack. Each man has four sacks filling at once, and he has just barely time to put on a sack and re-adjust his machinery before the next sack is ready. The conveyor belts carry the filled bags to a chute which deposits them in the box car, one on either side of the sacker. Each of the many machines throughout the plant is driven by a small but powerful electric motor.

A visitor in the forests of the Black Hills

The cement plant is not one of nature’s wonders, but one of the products of God’s masterpiece, man. It and other mechanical achievements are hardly less to be marvelled at than the natural wonders, themselves.

CHAPTER VI
Crystal Cave

From the cement plant we take U. S. Highway number 16 through Black Hawk and Piedmont to Crystal Cave. On this road we encounter the second notable man-made achievement. The car begins to register a few degrees of added heat in the cooling system. Before we reach the top of the great hill, (several miles long), we pass several cars which have not been as effectively cooled as our own. The grade has been gradual and even, clear from the bottom to the top of the mountain. The road winds around vale and crag, often having had to be cut through solid rock or cut into a niche on the steep side of the mountain. It is a feat of engineering skill capable of firing the imagination of anyone.

Entrance to Crystal Cave

About sixteen miles out of Rapid City we come to the huge arrow and sign pointing to Crystal Cave. The distance it was to be from the main road is given us on the sign board; it seems twice as far. The road is no longer smooth and surfaced or the grades regular or straight. These “side” roads are fast being improved, and probably by another year this one will be fairly smooth, and wide enough for two cars to pass anywhere. We find it a bit rough, rutted, winding through dense vegetation, and narrow. However, in dry weather the driving there is safe, comparatively easy, and enjoyable. The scenery is quite picturesque. To those interested in birds, trees, and flowers this will be a splendid bit of road.

After some little time, a half hour or less, we arrive at the cave entrance.

Bridal Veil, Crystal Cave

The headquarters are located in a little log cabin with a wide veranda where one can see specimens from the cave and where souvenirs may be bought. The new cave entrance, pictured herewith is just above the cabin.

When a large enough party has gathered, a guide lights many gasoline lanterns and we are told to file into the cave entrance. As we do so the guide distributes the lights. After this he takes the lead.

We go into the cave in our regular clothing, without needing slickers or other special equipment. It might be said, however, khaki clothing and hobnailed boots are not so bad for a trip of this kind. The same holds for mountain climbing. High heels are decidedly a detriment to progress, and somewhat precarious as well, where the footing is moist or steep.

The Butcher’s Face, Crystal Cave

With our lanterns we file after the guide. He leads us down and forward into the bowels of the earth, stopping occasionally to explain the various formations which we are passing. His “line” is strongly based on fact, and if one has a good imagination he can enjoy the trip, being able to “see” the various animals, rooms, or formations which the guide points out.

The Frozen River, Crystal CaveO’Neill Photo

First, the cave has been formed in limestone, through erosion by water, extending over many thousands of years. The mineral part of the water has hardened in perfect crystals, looking as though they had been cut. These crystals cling to the walls, creating a beautiful effect. They are as hard as rock.

Some of the high lights of the trip are “Devil’s Ice Box,” “Moses’s Meat Market,” with hams, bacon and a chicken hanging from the ceiling, “The Butcher Himself” (pictured), in his parlor, “Poverty Flats,” “Corcham’s Art Gallery,” which contained well hung walls, and even a goat. Then came “Cathedral Cave,” with its crystalline rolling clouds. “The Polar Bear,” “Diamond Rock,” made of pulverized mica, and “Santa Claus.”

There are stalactites hung from the tops of some of the caves and stalagmites built up from the floors, each of which if it could talk could tell stories that would be ancient history to Moses.

Going on, we come to “Old Man Cave” and “Black Hills Bakery.” In the latter were buns (of solid rock), rolls and loaves of bread, natural formations. From here we go into a room 300 feet below the surface and put out the lights. It is very dark there, even in the daytime.

We light the lanterns, pass on, and come to the “Whale that Jonah swallowed.” Next comes the “Mayflower,” and last the trip out. The “Bridal Veil” and “Frozen River” were among the most picturesque of the scenes, the exact position of which are not recalled.

Most of the rooms and passages are six to twelve feet in height. Some are hundreds of feet deep and some are too close to the floor for the unwary head. These rocks do not give very far when one’s head hits them.

Our guide is a decidedly congenial and unassuming young man. He wins the favor of all of the party, keeping the spirits high through the whole trip.

One half mile down, on the road from Crystal Cave is a sign pointing toward Knife Blade Rock. This is a gigantic thin rock formation rising 600 feet out of the bed of the canyon. The origin of this phenomenon also kindles one’s imagination.

When viewing Knife Blade Rock we stand on a high precipitous canyon wall and look nearly straight down hundreds of feet into the Elk Creek Canyon. This view is magnificent; the great deep canyon, the precipitous cliff, Knife Blade, and the expansive opposite bank covered with heavy vegetation.

From here we move on toward Sturgis about ten miles distant.

CHAPTER VII
Sturgis

The road to Sturgis is pretty well crowded with cars headed for the Tri-State Roundup at Belle Fourche. We arrive about four o’clock. The next hour is spent in getting boots repaired, getting haircuts and in replenishing the food supply.

We still have a good supply of eggs, butter, bacon, fruit, and vegetables which we packed up on the farm before starting the trip. At each tourist camp we get plenty of fresh vegetables and milk. We appreciate the vegetable and store service of the camps. It is excellent. This, with the food stove, utensils and dishes we brought with us on the trip, makes our food question simple and economical as well as highly satisfactory. We enjoy every meal.

Bear Butte in the Distance

Sturgis has one of the best tourist parks we encountered on the trip. The camp is equipped with excellent little cottages for those who prefer them. It has a main camp building containing running spring water, modern toilet facilities with hot and cold water, shower baths and a laundry. Bear Butte Creek flows directly behind our tent. Above our heads are electric lights. Beside the thrill and exhilaration of camping the conveniences are almost equal to those enjoyed in a first class hotel. The nice shady camp site, however, to the person enjoying the out-of-doors makes a hotel feel like a dungeon. The tent takes but a few minutes to set up and it adds tremendously to the pleasure of an outing.

Bear Butte, close up O. A. Vik

We get a good night’s rest in the Sturgis park and rise early the following morning to partake of the nice hot flap-jacks, bacon, coffee and oatmeal. (We will need it all before lunch time).

We start out bright and early to climb Bear Butte. We take trail No. 79 out to the northeast of Sturgis. We leave the highway a few miles out and take the Bear Butte trail. What looked like a mile or two proves to be seven or eight, and what looked like a small mound proves to be a huge formation rising nearly a thousand feet above its base.

We had hoped to prance right up to the top on short notice. Our troubles start when we cannot decide whether we are supposed to go up the east or south slope. We find later that either is sufficiently difficult. We finally flounder around to a farm house near the south slope, leave the car and start up.

Climbing Bear Butte. It is more steep than it looked

The slope is steep and progress slow. The whole party of us begin the climb. When we reach the shale slope and have to climb instead of walk, only three of us are still going. Even our shoes show the effects of the rocks. Well, we climb for an hour and finally find ourselves on the top of this promontory which we have by this time learned to respect. The pictures show the size of the rocks compared with the humans climbing them.

The view from here is excellent. We can see Mt. Roosevelt, Harney Peak, White Rocks and other peaks with which we are acquainted standing out in distant relief. The plains stretch out for miles and miles to the north and east, and the picturesque mountains are spread in the other directions. It seems almost as though this peak towers above the entire surrounding country on all sides. The view is well worth the hard climb necessary to attain it. The U. S. Geological Survey marker on the top indicates that the height is 4439 feet above the sea level, 987 feet above the city of Sturgis which, is 3452 feet. (See [appendix].)

We descend in somewhat better time than it took us to go up, have lunch and return to camp. From here we take trail 24 for about two miles out to Ft. Meade, a military post. Here we watch a polo game and guard mount. In the camp are stationed about 750 U. S. regular army artillery men and cavalrymen.

While at Sturgis we should take the Boulder Canyon road to Deadwood but we miss this scenery as well as Rim Rock Drive above Rapid Canyon. Boulder Canyon is one of the most picturesque roads in the Hills, so enormous are its perpendicular figured rock walls.

The Shale Slope, Bear Butte

CHAPTER VIII
Belle Fourche

We retire early on the night of the third and are on the road early the next morning, headed for Belle Fourche over U. S. 16. At Whitewood we go over another gigantic ridge of hills which taxes our heavily loaded car. At Spearfish we take U. S. 85 and gradually leave the mountains for the more level northern plains.

We arrive in a very busy Belle Fourche. The streets are lined with people, refreshment stands, side shows and various other gala sights. Parking room is scarce. The whole town reflects the western spirit. The predominating costume is that of the cowboy dressed up. Broad rimmed, high crowned hats and bright silk neckerchiefs are everywhere.

President Coolidge at the RoundupRise Studio, Rapid City, S. D.

Probably a Scotch visitor would not exactly appreciate the reception. The Roundup is a gala affair. The people come there to spend money. Those running the various amusements and refreshment stands seem to understand this perfectly and render all possible assistance. In the West the celebrations are not marked with the conservatism of the East.

We enjoy the day after we get our bearings. We have lunch after a couple of hours of “seeing Belle” and then go out to the Roundup. The road is packed; we have started none too soon. True to the training of school teachers, we try to conserve on costs as much as possible. We have paid a dollar apiece for general admission and now we decide a fifty cent seat will be nearly as good as one for a dollar or more.

An Exciting Ride
Bill Pawley on a high one.
Cody Stampede, 1921

We get excellent bleacher seats, but somehow they get surprisingly hard during the three hours and over that we sit there. The sun is uncomfortably hot and the folks climbing up and down are none too careful at whose expenses they get the dust brushed from their shoes. We can not see the events very plainly in some cases, but we are not cheated out of very much of the performance at that.

The clown car opens the day. Of course it is a Ford. But the clown has done his duty and the affair brings forth more than forced smiles. The Rapid City Bugle Corps, the Cavalry Band (mounted) from Fort Meade, and the C. & N. W. Band from Chicago are outstanding attractions.

The cow pony race comes next, then roping and the cowboy relay. Those cowboys can certainly change saddles from one pony to another in a hurry and also ride. Following this comes exhibitions in horseback hurdling by cavalrymen. Then comes a contest of cowboys riding steers. The man who stays with his steer longest wins. Some of those fellows get pretty hard spills. The broncho riding contest is just as lively. The horses try hard enough to unseat their riders and many of them succeed. The clown, in enormous red “Shaps,” rides a bucking steer upon which he is mounted backward.

Steer riding

The cowgirl race is a close one, the winner almost having to win by the proverbial sticking out of the horse’s tongue.

After this comes stunt riding and trick riding. The men, and women, too, ride at a gallop doing head stands on the saddle, standing upright, at right angles to the horse, clinging beneath the horse’s neck, seated backward and in various other ways. They do gymnastics on the horses in full gallop. One juggles balls in the air while riding, standing on the saddle at full gallop. One lies on his back whirling a rope while the horse beneath him runs. The clown rides a bucking Missouri mule.

The Horse Wins
Dug Walker off Ripvanwinkle
White River Frontier DaysO’Neill Photo

For deviation, songs are sung amplified so that the crowd can hear them. One is “Black Hills Rosebud.” Governor Bulow gives a short talk, too.

Bulldogging steers, or riding up beside them, grasping them by the horns, at full run, dismounting and throwing them upon their backs seems to be the most popular sport. The record time is under nine seconds.

The cowgirl relay is another exciting event. A cowgirl then puts on a highly applauded solo dance. After this comes the calf roping contest. This calls for real action. Riders, mounted on two horses, one foot on each, furnished the next race. One girl is entered.

Orman Dam, Belle Fourche

Mabel Strickland, famous woman rider, puts on a steer roping exhibition and the bucking mule riding contest follows. Then comes the wild horse race. During the whole performance Clyde Ice of the Rapid Transit Co. is hovering over the fairgrounds with his tri-motored Ford passenger plane.

The last event is an exhibition by one of the girls riding a bucking horse. The horse throws the young lady before leaving the corral shute. Accidents occasionally occur in this rough play, though they are rarely fatal. All in all, the performance is very good.

U. and I. Sugar Plant, Belle Fourche, South DakotaO’Neill Photo

This is one of the large plants for making sugar from beets located in the midwestern states. This plant is supplied with beets from the Belle Fourche Valley, irrigated from the great irrigation project administered by the United States Government, and located north of Belle Fourche. Needless to say this is one of the major industries of this part of the state.

After the program there are twenty thousand people trying to leave the grounds at once and soon after the roads from Belle Fourche receive a goodly share of these people. We follow the southbound stream as far as the tourist camp, a mile or two out.

Belle Fourche has a modern camp, although it is just in the process of construction and not yet as complete as some of the others. They have an outdoor dance floor, which is very popular on the night of the Fourth.

The morning of the fifth we drive back through Belle Fourche and east over U. S. Highway 212 to the “U. and I.” sugar plant. This is another of the Black Hills industries. We are given a pamphlet telling us that: the plant covers eight acres; the main building is five stories high; the length of the factory and warehouse is 587 feet; the capacity is fifteen hundred tons of beets each twenty-four hours, and the output 3600 hundred pound bags of sugar every day. Three hundred men are employed during refining season.

A guide takes us through. We first see six 400 horsepower boilers and two 1200 horsepower generators. These are enormous affairs. They develop the power for the plant. We proceed to the place where the beets are unloaded and conveyed through an open flume, through a trash catcher to the washer.

Spillway, Orman Dam

From here the beets are taken by an elevator to the top of the plant. There knives cut them into small strings less than a half inch in diameter. These chips or “spaghetti” are run into diffusion tanks. They first go to a liming station, then through sulfur stoves, a bleaching process and on into evaporating tanks. Here the solution is concentrated from 12 per cent sugar to 65 per cent pure. Then the sugar is put through a centrifugal crystalizer and through a hot air blast dryer. It takes just twenty-four hours from beets to sugar. All machinery is electric.

The factory produced 183,000 bags of sugar last year or over eighteen million pounds. About one-fourth of this is in the warehouse when we visit it. The beets were grown on 11,000 acres in 1927 and the total crop was 35,000 tons of beets.

An Irrigation Canal

We go further east on the highway 212 to the byroad leading north to Orman Dam. The dam is a gigantic affair, holding back a tremendous amount of water for use in irrigating land for sugar beets and other crops. The water is so clear that we can see the fish swimming beneath its surface.

The Belle Fourche Reclamation Project is one of the wonders of the western part of South Dakota. It is not in the “Hills” proper, but is well worth going to see. We drive on to Nisland, observing the effects of irrigation as we go.

CHAPTER IX
Spearfish

U. S. Government Fish Hatchery at Spearfish

From Nisland we retrace our route through Belle Fourche to Spearfish. There we find another splendid and modern camp. We enjoy staying at these camps of which their cities are justly proud. The cost is the same fifty cents per night as that of the less developed camps. But the modern toilet facilities, running water, wood, stoves, lights, community log cabins, dance floors, swimming pool, fishing and patrol system create in the traveler’s heart a warm feeling toward those cities or towns. In addition to this, the freedom with which people from all over the United States meet and talk over experiences is a source of lasting pleasure to the conversational type. The large cars of eastern manufacturers and the Fords of vagabonds from any place in South Dakota or the United States sleep side by side. Toward evening knots of people gather here and there about the camp or in the community building and the topic is likely to be anything from sheep raising in Perkins county or mica mining at Keystone to the workings of the New York Stock Exchange. Roads are discussed, scenery and experiences are swapped and friendships are made. Everyone is congenial, all are neighbors and class spirit does not exist. It would surprise one how he can broaden his knowledge through these contacts.

No matter whether one’s interest is fishing, swimming, camping or gossiping, he or she will naturally fit into a group in camp.

Lookout Mountain near Spearfish

The United States trout hatchery is located beside the Spearfish camp, just across the bridge to the south. Here the United States government maintains tanks in which they raise several varieties of trout. There is a different size in each tank ranging from the frisky little baby trout to the sedate monsters that give a person a certain longing for just one chance at their like. These speckled and rainbow beauties are a sight to behold. If one can get around there at feeding time he will behold a still greater treat.

Across the road from the hatchery is a pretty decent little swimming pool, formed by a dam in Spearfish Creek. A swim in one of these clear mountain streams is a rare treat. The visitor in the “Hills” should plan to indulge as often as possible.

Spearfish Creek, Lead, S. D.

Maurice, In Spearfish CanyonO. A. Vik

Bridal Veil Falls

The next morning, July 6th, we take a trip up Spearfish Canyon. The road leads past the fish hatchery, plunging into the mountains and woods over ground owned or leased by the Homestake Mine Company. The road is fairly well worn but poorly marked. Nevertheless, this trip above all others is not one to be abandoned. Word just arrives that the road will be improved clear to Lead next summer. The road winds over gentle slopes and makes sharp turns. One must drive under twenty miles per hour and sound his horn often. But a person does not realize the marvelous beauty that lies hidden in this valley until he actually penetrates, not a mile or two, but clear up as far as cars will go. One must get out and press through the timber until he comes to a place from which he can view a great expanse of the valley and wall before he can fully appreciate Spearfish Canyon.

Admiring the Falls

Wildcat Cave is located a few miles up the valley. The car must be parked beside the road and the ascent up the steep canyon wall continued on foot. The cave lies a quarter of a mile or so up. The climb to it is steep and part of the way is over rocks washed by springs.

The path leads through dense growths of timber and shrubs. At last we come to a huge overhanging cliff, below which is the Wildcat Cave. Over the top of the cliff clear cold spring water half drips, half runs continually. At various places in its walls springs ooze out, too. The one little waterfall over the center comes down through about fifty feet of space. If a person is adventuresome and ambitious he might climb the crags clear to the top of the mountain on the right.

Savoy Canedy Photo

Seven and a half miles up the canyon from Spearfish we come to Bridal Veil Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall, with not much volume but a great height. Probably it falls 200 feet and is twenty feet wide on the average. The spectacle of this is really awe inspiring. The flimsy lace like folds tumbling over the succeeding layers of rock make unquestionably the most beautiful waterfall in the Black Hills. We stop at its foot to eat our lunch while admiring its beauty.

Multiplex Falls

From Bridal Veil Falls the road winds up the canyon to the Spearfish hydro-electric water flume. Above that is Roughlock Falls and the Homestake hydro-electric plant, and we must not forget Latchstring Inn. Foolish is the visitor who turns back before seeing all of these, if weather conditions permit.

After this the trail leads back to Spearfish and thence fifteen miles over into Wyoming. We could go on west to Devil’s Tower, but that would mean a long trip. So we just cross the State line and return. Here the fun begins for us. The rain has begun, slowly at first and has kept ever increasing. We have determined to make Pine Crest Park at Deadwood this evening, and accordingly break camp and set out. We have gone a few miles when the rain comes down in torrents. Fortunately the roads are good, but we have to drive with the windshield cleaner working constantly. We enjoy the beautiful scenery in spite of the rain.

We take U. S. 14 for eight miles or so, and then turn south on U. S. 85 for another five miles. On the way we come to Preacher Smith’s monument. This has been erected in honor of Mr. Smith, Deadwood’s first minister.

The story is told how he came to Deadwood with the first settlers when gold was discovered. He preached to whoever would listen to him. One day he headed for the vicinity of Whitewood to deliver a sermon. He was advised not to start out because the Indians were hostile. He insisted that his Bible was all the weapon he needed. Today a monument stands near where the Indians killed him. Several authors have told the story of Preacher Smith. Anyone interested in the story should by all means read it from some authentic source.

CHAPTER X
Pine Crest Camp

The road from Spearfish rises gradually. At the highest point on the road, thirteen miles from Spearfish, the entrance to Pine Crest Camp comes into view. This is a really beautiful camp. It is one hundred per cent what its name implies.

A camp built over one of the tent floors is comfortable even in rainy weather. However, if experience is any teacher, it might be said that trying to sleep under a hole in the tent roof on a rainy night is a pleasure only to the other fellow.

In the evening, after camp is built and dinner served, a walk to the community house proves a worth while venture. Pine Crest gives us the heartiest welcome of any place in the “Hills.” In the log community house, (it is a masterpiece of masterpieces), a cheerful fire awaits. The ample stone fireplace seems doubly welcome on a rainy night. Does it feel good? Say!

In the cabin are gathered a group of high school girls from Lead, a family from Kansas City, a Canadian, some Ohio people, Texans and several others. And a jolly time we have. Stories starts the program. Music follows and a lively community dance tops it off. The atmosphere is that of one great big family gathered together after a long separation.

Under the cabin, in a well finished basement are modern toilet rooms, a laundry, and shower baths. There is both hot and cold water. The whole is free to the tourists who are camped in the park. The initial fifty cents a night covers the entire cost.

Our enjoyable evening draws to a close and we return to the tent for a good night’s rest.

The experiences from now on are to be on historic ground.

Community House—Pine Crest Park—Deadwood, S.D.

CHAPTER XI
Lead

Pine Crest proves to be such a good camp that we decide to make it our headquarters for a day or two. In the morning we put up a lunch and drive over to Lead. Of course the first and foremost point of interest in Lead is Homestake Mine. We stop at the Burlington Railway station and register for the trip through the mine buildings. It is only a few moments before we are ready to start.

We follow our young lady guide up a steep incline. Half way up she stops us and asks us to face about. Clear across the gulch on the opposite side of town is a huge cut, where the hill is virtually cut in two. This, she tells us is the site of the first mine, a surface working. We are told that $20,000,000 worth of gold came from this cut.

Homestake Mills, Lead, S.D.

We go on up the hill to the Ellison shaft, the one now being used most extensively. There the ore is coming up from the 2300 foot level, by hoists and seven ton cars. It is dumped into a conveyor belt, and passes the pickers. We go next to see the giant air compressors for maintaining circulation of air in the mines.

The hoist room contains large drums driven by 1400 horse power electric motors working on direct current. These huge affairs bring the heavy cars up from the mine in a very short time. Their speed and precision are remarkable, considering their enormous size. The room is immaculate.

From the hoist room we go to the shop where diamond drills are sharpened. These are tubular bars of hard iron, with hollow centers, and sharp edges on one end in the form of a cross. They are used with the electric drill down the mine, working on the plan of the electric riveter. When dull these points are brought to the surface, pounded into shape in a trip hammer, while white hot, and tempered very hard.

The motor generator which is driven by alternating current and delivers direct current is a huge affair. It has to be in order to develop enough direct current to drive the heavy machinery. Its flywheel alone weighs thirty-five tons.

In the blacksmith shop all of the blacksmith work of the mine is done. Repairs are made, castings are made, gears are cut, and iron is pounded into shape. A pair of shears is cutting iron ¾ inch thick for a boiler. The ease with which it goes through this mass is astounding. Lathes are plaining blocks of iron or gears into shape. These lathes are cutting shavings a half-inch thick. In the molding room molten iron is being poured into casts, covered with sand, and allowed to cool.

Now comes the real gold mill. The first part we come to is the rock crusher or rod mills. From the rod mills the material is taken to the stamper, where it is mixed with water. The solution passes to dewatering cones and cleaner troughs. Rod mills crush the ore to powder, which, with water makes a mud. The mud passes through troughs containing mercury. Most of the gold leaves the mud and clings to the mercury.

The remaining solution goes to sand slime separation cones and then to cyanide tanks. The tanks are filled with mud. The water drains off. Cyanide is poured over the mass. The cyanide sinks, carrying the remaining gold of the crushed ore to the bottom with it. This is reclaimed and the mud is washed out and sent down the gulch.

The trip is an interesting one. The guide now tells us that the gold is molded into bricks worth twenty-five to thirty thousand dollars. Approximately sixteen are made each month.

B & M. Shop #2
One of the buildings of the Homestake Mining Company’s
Lead, S.D.