Transcriber's Note
The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

Camellia Fimbriata.

THE AMERICAN
FLOWER GARDEN DIRECTORY,

CONTAINING

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OF PLANTS,

IN THE

HOT-HOUSE, GARDEN-HOUSE, FLOWER GARDEN AND
ROOMS OR PARLOURS,

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR.

With

A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS MOST DESIRABLE IN EACH, THE NATURE OF THE SOIL AND
SITUATION BEST ADAPTED TO THEIR GROWTH, THE PROPER SEASON FOR
TRANSPLANTING, &c.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ERECTING A

Hot-house, Green-house, and laying out a Flower Garden.

ALSO

Table of Soils most congenial to the Plants contained in the Work.

THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO EITHER LARGE OR SMALL GARDENS,

WITH

LISTS OF ANNUALS, BIENNIALS, AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS,

CONTENTS, A GENERAL INDEX,

AND A FRONTISPIECE OF CAMELLIA FIMBRIATA.

By HIBBERT AND BUIST.
EXOTIC NURSERYMEN AND FLORISTS.

PHILADELPHIA:
E. L. CAREY & A. HART—CHESNUT STREET.
BOSTON:
ALLEN & TICKNOR.
1834.

[PREFACE.]

This volume owes its existence principally to the repeated requests of a number of our fair patrons, and amateur supporters, whose enquiries and wishes for a practical manual on Floraculture, at last induced us to prepare a work on the subject. That now offered is given unaffectedly and simply as a plain and easy treatise on this increasingly interesting subject. It will at once be perceived that there are no pretensions to literary claims—the directions are given in the simplest manner—the arrangement made as lucidly as was in our power—and the whole is presented with the single wish of its being practically useful. How far our object has been attained of course our readers must judge. Nothing has been intentionally concealed; and all that is asserted is the result of minute observation, close application, and an extended continuous experience from childhood. We pretend not to infallibility, and are not so sanguine as to declare our views the most perfect that can be attained. But we can so far say, that the practice here recommended has been found very successful.

Some very probably may be disappointed in not having the means of propagating as clearly delineated as those of culture; but to have entered into all the minutiæ connected therewith, would have formed materials for two volumes larger than the present. We might have described that branch, as it has already been done in works published both on this continent and in Europe. In one of the former it is said, "You may now propagate many kinds (Exotic Plants) by suckers, cuttings, and layers, which should be duly attended to, particularly such as are scarce and difficult to be obtained." And the directions given in one of the most extensive works in Europe on the propagation of an extensive genus, varied in character and constitution, run thus: "Cuttings of most kinds will strike root. From the strongest growing kinds, take off large cuttings at a joint, and plunge them in a pot of sand under a hand-glass in the bark bed. Of the smaller kinds take younger kinds, and put them under a bell-glass, also plunged in heat. The sooner the plants are potted off after they are rooted the better."

Such instructions to the inexperienced, are imperfect and unavailing, which, we flatter ourselves, is not the character that will attach to the present work. We are well aware that there are persons, who, to show their own superior abilities, may cavil and say that there is nothing new. To such critics it may be answered, if arranging, simplifying, digesting, and rendering Floraculture attainable by the humblest capacity, with useful lists and tables on a plan quite novel, as we believe—offer nothing new, it may at least be called an improvement. However, we submit all to a generous public, to whom we are already under many obligations.

Hibbert & Buist.

Philadelphia, April 18th, 1832.

[INTRODUCTION.]

In presenting this work, constructed as a monthly calendar, which is the most simple and easy method to convey the necessary operations of the year, considerably more labour has been expended, than was at first expected, to render it as accurate as possible. Some verbal mistakes may have been overlooked in the botanical names. Where such occur, the list of names at the end of the volume will enable the reader to correct them; as well as the accentuation. For such other errors as may be discovered, the indulgence of the reader is solicited.

Frequently, in the description of plants, there are Botanical and English names compounded, in order the more clearly to elucidate their several parts to those who are not fully acquainted with scientific terms. The description of the colour of flowers and habits of plants will be useful to such as are at a great distance from collections, in enabling them to make selections judiciously.

Those plants described and recommended have all, with a few exceptions, passed under our own observation, and are generally such as are most worthy of attention, either for beauty of flower, foliage, or habit, together with those celebrated in arts and medicine. Many may possibly have passed unobserved, either from their being very generally known, or difficult to obtain; but in no case has there been suppression from selfish motives. Where the words "our collections" occur, it is meant for those of the country generally, and especially those immediately in the vicinity of Philadelphia. In all our observations, no regard has been paid to what has been written by others, either in the way of depreciation, or of particular appreciation. Perhaps some other cultivators may differ from us respecting culture and soil; however this may be, we rest satisfied, as our work is designedly and professedly given as the result of our own experience, the plan laid down is our own routine of culture, and the soils are those which we adopt. We do not say that there is no soil in which the plants will not grow better, fully aware that every art and profession is subject to improvement. The table of soils has been constructed at the expense of much labour, and condensed as much as possible; to every one that has a single plant it will be found invaluable. Many are the publications in Europe on Gardening and Floraculture, the directions in which, when practised in the United States, prove almost a perfect dead letter. A work adapted to the climate must be the guide in this country, and not one which is foreign to us in every respect. On this account a work like the present has been a desideratum, considering the rapidly increasing and interesting advancement of the culture of flowers amongst the fair daughters of our flourishing republic.

To aid them and others seeking information in this instructive and delightful pursuit—to enable them to examine more minutely, and judge more correctly of the qualities, properties, and beauties of plants—have been prominent objects in this publication. Here, as knowledge is increased, the warmer will be the devotion of the delighted student; and as the mind correspondingly expands, the desire for further information will keep pace—advancing constantly in the development of nature, the mind will participate in the enjoyment, and become meliorated and purified—as the study of nature's works inevitably lead to the contemplation of nature's God, and the result of the whole prove a harmonious combination of personal gratification and mental improvement.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

[OMITTED IN MARCH.]

Jasmìnum, Jasmine. A few species of this genus are celebrated either for the Green-house or Rooms. J. odoratíssimum, Azorian, has very sweet-scented yellow flowers, blooming from April to November. J. revolùtum is the earliest flowering one, and of the same colour; it is apt to grow straggling, and should be close pruned as soon as done blooming, which will be about June. J. grandiflòrum is frequently called Catalonian, and should be pruned early in spring to make it bloom well, especially old plants. J. officinàle is a hardy climbing plant for arbours, walls, &c. There are several varieties of it, and it is reported there is a double one.

[ERRATA.]

Page 104, dele "L. Silaifòlia has leaves bipinnatifid and smooth; segments wedge-shaped and cut; L. dentáta and L. ilicifòlia, are the finest;" and place it to "Lomàtia," page 103.

Page 321, ninth line from top, dele "Pèdulis."

[THE]
AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

[Hot-House.]

JANUARY.

At all times be very careful of the temperature of this department, and more especially at this season of the year, as a few minutes' neglect might materially injure many of the delicate plants. The thermometer ought to range between 58° and 65°. In fine sunshine days, admit a little air by having some of the top sashes let down, one, two, or three inches, according to the weather, and let it always be done from eleven to one o'clock; but by no means in such a manner as to cause a draught in the interior of the house, which would be very prejudicial. Therefore be always cautious during cold weather, in administering that necessary element to vegetation, which is so conducive to health.

OF FIRING AND FUEL.

The Hot-house ought never to be left entirely to inexperienced persons, because they are not aware of what might be the result of inattention even for an hour. Attention to the following observations will obviate every difficulty. About this season of the year, frost generally sets in very severe in the middle states. Suppose the day may have all the clemency of spring, the night may be directly the reverse. Every precaution is necessary to guard against extremes. According to what was said last month, it is understood that the shutters are put on every night at sundown, and in severe weather, they must be put on as soon as the sun goes off the glass. If the shutters are omitted till late in severe frost, it will so reduce the heat of the house, that you cannot overcome it by fire until near midnight; and when done, the fire or fires have been made more powerful than they ought to be, proving uncongenial to the plants that are near the flues. The air, as above directed, having been taken off the house at one o'clock, as soon as the mercury begins to fall in the thermometer, kindle the fire, and supposing it is anthracite coal, in twenty minutes, with a good drawing furnace, the heat will operate in the house. If a coal fire, kindled about four o'clock, it will require an addition about six, and then may be made up again about nine or ten, which will suffice until morning. The quantity must be regulated by the weather. If the fuel is wood, it must be attended to three or four times during the evening; and when the mornings are intensely cold, one fire in the morning is requisite. When there are bad drawing furnaces the fires must be made much earlier, perhaps by two or three o'clock, which will be easily observed by the time the fire takes effect upon the air of the house. The temperature ought never to be under 55° of Fahrenheit.

OF WATERING THE PLANTS.

To do this judiciously, is so necessary to vegetation, and so requisite to understand, and yet the knowledge so difficult to convey to others (being entirely acquired by practice,) that if the power was in man to impart it to his fellow-men, he would possess the power of perfecting a gardener by diction. However, the hints on this important point of floraculture, will be as clear and expressive as can at present be elicited. All plants in this work that are aquatic, shall be specified as such; and those that are arid shall be duly mentioned. All others will come in the medium.

All the plants must be looked over every day, and those watered that appear to be getting dry on the top. It must be strictly observed not to give water to any but such as are becoming dry, and let it be given moderately at this season. Two or three days may perhaps elapse before it need be repeated. There is not so much liability to err at present in giving too little, as in administering too much. Vegetation amongst the stove or Hot-house plants will soon begin to show, and the soil will prove uncongenial if it is impregnated with stagnant moisture. Small plants should always be watered with a pot, having what is termed a rose upon it. The surface of the rose, that is, where it is perforated with small apertures, ought to be level, or a little concave, which would convey the water more to a centre, and make neater work, by preventing any water from being unnecessarily spilt in the house. The size of the pot will be regulated by the person to suit the conveniences of the place. Water, when applied either to the roots or foliage of the plants, should be about the medium temperature of the house. The cistern, built on the plan herein recommended, will always give this, and sometimes more, which can easily be reduced by adding cold water. Where there are no cisterns, a tank or barrel might be in the house, in which the water could stand for one night or more, as is most suitable. When water is given without being thus aired, it chills the roots, prevents a luxuriant growth, injures the fresh and healthful appearance of the foliage, and too frequently gives to all the plants a sickly hue.

OF INSECTS, THEIR DESTRUCTION, &c.

In this department, insects begin to increase by hundreds, and too frequently their ravages are very obvious before their progress is arrested. We will treat of those which are most common, under their respective heads, with their nature and cure, as far as has come under our observation.

Aphis rosæ, of the natural order of Hemiptera, or what is commonly known by Green Fly, Green Lice, &c. infect plants in general, and are particularly destructive in the Hot-house to Hibíscus ròsa-sinénsis, Asclèpias, Crássula coccínea, Alstrœmèria, and many other plants of a free growing nature. They attack the young and tender shoots at the point, leaving a dark filthy appearance on the foliage. Many remedies for their destruction have been offered to the public by various writers, each equally secure in his own opinion. Extensive practice alone can show the most easy and effectual cure. Fumigating with tobacco is decidedly the most efficacious, and in the power of any to perform. Take a small circular furnace, made of sheet iron, diameter at top twelve inches, and at bottom eight; depth one foot, having a grating in it to reach within three inches of the bottom, which will leave space for the air to pass, and where the ashes will fall and be kept in safety, having a handle like a pail to carry it with. This, or any thing similar, being ready, put in it a few embers of ignited charcoal; take it into the centre of the house, and put on the coals a quantity of moist tobacco stems. If they attempt to blaze or flame, sprinkle a little water over them; and as they consume, continue to add tobacco until the house is entirely full of smoke, observing always to do it in still, cloudy weather, or in the evening. If it is windy, the smoke is carried off without having half the effect, and requires more tobacco. The house must be closely shut up. There are several plants whose foliage is of a soft downy nature, such as Helitròpiums, Callacárpas, Sálvias, and many of the Lantànas, Víncas, with several others, that cannot stand, without danger, strong fumigation. These should be put low down in the house, or under the stage. These fumigations will have to be repeated frequently, the time for which will easily be perceived; and, when required, ought not to be delayed. Several species and varieties of the same genus, Aphis, can be destroyed in the like manner.

Acaris tellurius, or red spider, is caused by a dry atmosphere, and its havoc generally is obvious before it is arrested. With its proboscis, it wounds the fine capillary vessels; and if the leaves are fine, they will appear as if probed with a needle, and yellowish around the wound. If they have farther progressed in their destructive work, the leaves will prematurely decay. On this appearance, turn up the leaf, and you will see them running about with incredible swiftness. Their body is of a blood colour, and their feet, eight in number, light red. When very numerous, they work thick webs on the under side of the leaf, and frequently all over it, forming a mass of half dead plants, decayed leaves, and thousands of spiders. The most effectual remedy is a thorough syringing with water, and profusely under the foliage. This being done every evening, will subdue and eventually banish them. Had the house been syringed two or three times per week, these intruders would not have appeared. It is said by some writers, that watering only reduces them to a temporary state of inaction, and will not destroy them. Laying aside the many prescribed nostrums, we assert that the pure element is the most effectual cure, as well as the most easy to be obtained.

Thrips, order Hemiptera, are insects so minute as scarcely to be perceptible to the naked eye. They generally lurk close to the veins of the leaves of plants, and frequently attack esculents. When viewed through a glass, they are seen, when touched, to skip with great agility. The larva is of a high brown, or reddish colour. The thrip has four wings, and walks with its body turned upwards. It frequently attacks the extremities of tender shoots, or young leaves, which become shrivelled, brown, and will rub to dust easily between the thumb and finger. When any leaves or shoots are perceived to be so, if you do not observe the green fly, expect the thrips. They may be destroyed by a fumigation of tobacco, in the same manner as the green fly. By the simple and expeditious method of fumigation, these insects and several others may be destroyed effectually at any time they appear.

Cocus hesperidus, or mealy bug, has appeared in the Hot-houses about Philadelphia within these few years, and, if not instantly destroyed, increases rapidly. It is of a white dusty colour, when broken, of a brownish red, generally covered with down, under which it deposits its eggs; and they, in a few months, come forth in great numbers. The cocus generally is of a dormant nature, but, in warm weather, they may be seen moving rapidly up the stems of the plants. Fumigating has no observable effect on these insects; therefore, as soon as they appear, recourse must be had to other means. The liquid made from the following receipt, is death to any of the Cocus tribe: Take two pounds of strong soap, one pound flour of sulphur, one pound of leaf tobacco, one and a half ounce of nux vomica, with a table spoonful of turpentine, which boil in four gallons of river water to three; then set aside to cool. When boiling, stir it well with a stick, continuing to do so until it is reduced as above. In this liquor immerse the whole plant, drawing it to and fro gently, that the liquor may penetrate every where.

This done, lay the plant on its side, until it begin to dry, then syringe well with clean water, and put it in its respective station. Where a collection of plants is free from any insects of the kind, every plant that is introduced, ought to be minutely scrutinized, that the unclean may be kept from the clean: the above insect will feed almost on any plant, but indulges on Crássulas, any of the bristly Cáctus, Gardènias, and in fact whatever is in the way.

Cocus————, or brown scaly insect, is frequently found on many plants, but we never could perceive that it does any other material injury, than dirtying them. We have always observed, that it is found in winter to abound most in those situations which are most excluded from air; therefore is of less importance than the other species, which eat and corrode the leaves of tender plants. A washing with strong soap suds will destroy them, or the above liquid will do it more effectually. Tie a piece of sponge on the end of a small stick, and scrub every leaf, stem, and crevice. Fumigating destroys the larvæ of this species.

Cocus————, or small white scaly insect, which generally infests Cycas revolùta and circinàlis, the varieties of Nèrium oleánder, Oleas, and several species of Acacias, may be destroyed by washing as above with a sponge, and a strong decoction of tobacco, using the liquid about the warmth of 100°. Being thus heated, it irritates the insect, when, by easing itself from its bed, the fluid passes under it, and causes immediate death. If it is not thus irritated, it adheres so closely to the foliage, that it will keep you at defiance. The under, or dark side of the leaves is its residence; and we have observed a plant in a house where there was only light on one side, with the dark side literally covered, while the light side was clean. So much for having houses with plenty of light. The effects of this insect are of a corroding nature, extracting all the juices from the leaf under it, even straining to the other side; and where they have got to the extremity, the foliage is completely yellow, and of a decayed appearance.

Cocus————, or turtle insect. We have never observed this insect arrive to any extent, but think that the Datura arborea is most infested with it. It is the largest of any genus known amongst us, and very like a turtle in miniature. On lifting it from the wood, to which it generally adheres, there appear to be hundreds of eggs under it, but fumigating completely destroys the larvæ. In our opinion this turtle insect is no other than the old female of the brown scaly insect, which swells to a large size before depositing its eggs. We have frequently observed the insect dead in this enlarged state, and question if this is the last stage of its transmigration. The male insect is winged, and very active in its movements.

OF SHIFTING PLANTS.

At this period of the season very little is required to grow Calceolàrias to perfection. They require a few months of the Hot-house, and if the directions given last month were followed up, some of these will have advanced a little in growth. The herbaceous kinds, when grown about one inch high, ought to be divided, and put into four inch pots, sprinkled gently, and kept in the shade until they begin to grow; after which, keep them near the glass, to prevent them from becoming spindly and drawn. Their farther treatment will be observed as they require. This is a beautiful genus of plants, flowering very profusely all summer, and some of them early in spring.

Alstrœmèrias, about the beginning or middle of the month, will have made their appearance above ground. When shot about one inch, turn them out, and carefully shake them clear of earth; and if required, divide the crowns, and put them in as small pots as possible, taking care not to break any of the strong fleshy roots. (For Soil, [see Table].) To flower these plants well, they require to be frequently shifted, during their active stage of growth, which must be duly observed. The most of the species of this genus will more than repay the attention, by their abundantly and beautifully spotted flowers. A. flósmartìna, A. Pelegrìna, A. pulchélla, and A. atrópurpurea, are the most splendid. The former flowers very freely. All natives of South America.

Where bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Jonquils, Narcissus, Ixias, Lachenàllas, &c. are required to be early in flower, they may, about the beginning or end of the month, be put in the front of the Hot-house, giving very little water until they begin to grow; then water freely, and tie up the flower stems as they advance.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

This subject ought to be kept constantly in view. However correct every thing may be executed, without that adorning beauty, cleanliness, all will appear only half done. Therefore let all the dead leaves be picked off every day, and with dust and other litter swept out of the house, and when necessary, the house washed, which will be at least once a week. That the foliage of the plants may always appear fresh, syringe them in the evening, twice or three times per week; (when the weather is very cold, do it in the morning.) At present this will in a great measure keep down the insects, and will prove a bane to the red spider.

A hand engine is certainly the best. Milne's patent hand engine surpasses any that we have used. Nevertheless a hand syringe is very effectual. Some of these engines are powerful, throwing the water above forty feet. Read's patent of London is excellent. At the store of D. & C. Landreth, Phila., there is a very good kind, which answers admirably in small houses. Tie up neatly with stakes, and threads of Russia mat, all the straggling growing plants; let the stakes be proportionate to the plants, and never longer, except they are climbing sorts. Do not tie the branches in bundles, but singly and neatly, imitating nature as much as possible. If any of the plants are affected with the Cocus insect, let them be cleaned according to the plan already mentioned, taking particular care also in washing the stakes to which they had been previously tied, and burning all the old tyings, which contain the larvæ of the insect in many instances, especially of Cocus hesperidus. It is premised, when any of these things are done, that they will be well done, and not half doing, and always doing. Cleanliness, in every respect, promotes a pure air, which is congenial to vegetation, and will, with other attention, always ensure a healthful and vigorous appearance in the house.

[Green-House.]

JANUARY.

This compartment requires particular attention, in order to preserve the plants in good health, and carry them through this precarious season of the year. A little air must be admitted at all convenient times. An hour or two at mid-day will be of the utmost importance in drying up damp, and clearing off stagnated air, which is a harbour for every corruption. The top sashes being let down, or turned a few inches, in mild days (that is, when it is not high and cutting winds) from ten or eleven o'clock to two or three, according to the intensity of the frost, will renovate the interior air of the house, and harden the plants. When the weather will permit, let the front sashes be opened about one inch or more. An assiduous, experienced hand will never omit an opportunity.

With regard to fire heat, the temperature must be regulated to suit the nature of the plants in a general sense; so let the mercury, or spirits of wine, of Fahrenheit's thermometer, be from 34° to 43°; if it begins to fall, give a little fire heat. No doubt we have seen the thermometer much lower in the Green-house, than the above, even as low as 24°, without any immediate injury; but it was in an extensive collection, where the most hardy of the plants were selected into one house. Many boast how little fire they give their Green-house, and how cold it is kept, not observing the miserable state of their plants,—inexperience causing them to think, that the least fire heat will make them grow, and would rather look on naked stems than healthy plants. The above temperature will not, in exotics, cause premature vegetation, but will cause the plants to retain the foliage requisite to vegetative nature. A high temperature is not necessary for the generality of Green-house plants; on the contrary, it might very much injure them.

OF WATERING.

In this month very little is requisite, and must be given with great caution. Few plants will require much, and some hardly any; but all must be attended to, and have their wants supplied. Some will need it twice, some once a week, and some in two weeks, according to their shrubby and woody nature. Herbaceous and deciduous plants will seldom need water. Perhaps, from the throwing of the foliage, to the commencement of vegetation, three or four times will be sufficient. Particular attention should be paid to the state of health and of growth, in which the plants respectively are, in the application of water; otherwise much mischief may be done, and many entirely ruined.

Green-house plants, being now in an absolutely inactive state, require little more water than merely to keep the earth about their roots from becoming perfectly dry, by occasionally applying a very small quantity at the root; and, if done with a watering pot, as described under this head in the Hot-house of this month, very little will be spilt in the house to increase dampness, which, if it does appear, by any of the leaves of the plants becoming musty, they must be instantly picked off; and, if it increases, give a little fire and air. Succulent plants will not need any water during this month, unless omitted in December.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

This magnificent and attractive flower, with all its splendid varieties, will, about this time, begin to open its beautiful flowers. But for this admired genus of plants, our Green-houses, at this season, would be void of allurement. It is, in this country, subject to mildew and red spider, and more especially in the city, which appears to be from the nature of the air. The effects of mildew on these plants, if not prevented, would prove fatal; as, from appearance, many have died by it in our city. If it has reached a great extent, the leaves are brownish, having the appearance of being decayed, or scorched with the sun. In taking hold of the leaf, it feels soft, and altogether seems to have lost its nutritive substance; and, when the young foliage expands, it becomes covered with dark brown spots, and finally very much disfigured; and, when in this state, it is attacked by red spider, and, ultimately, death ensues.

If any of the plants are affected as above described, take a sponge, and wash every leaf minutely with soft water, and syringe them with water three or four times a week, which will clean them. All the young foliage will be healthy, and that which has been affected will fall off. However, prevention is better than cure; and if the Camellias are properly syringed every evening during summer, and once or twice a week during winter, they will never be subject to the ravages of mildew or of red spider.

Tie up any of the flowers that are expanded to stakes, in case of accident; and, in syringing, observe not to let any water fall on the flowers, as it causes premature decay, and change of colour.

The mildew first appears like small particles of very fine flour, around the under edge of the leaves, and visible to the naked eye; so that, syringing, sponging, &c. under the leaf is most requisite; but, as the mildew extends, both sides of the leaves are covered with these white particles.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

As there will perhaps be more leisure in the Green-house this month than in any other during the winter, it is presumed that there will not be a moment lost. If any of the trees are infested with insects, these, being now in their inactive state, may be more easily destroyed than at any other time. It is the brown scaly insect that generally infests them. For treatment, see Hothouse, January. The plant, or tree, after being washed, before it becomes dry, will require to be syringed with water, otherwise the dust will adhere to the glutinous particles of the soap. Set the plant in an airy situation to dry, in case of damp. There are several others subject to this insect, such as Myrtles, Oleas, Oleanders, &c. which treat in the same manner. Be careful that these trees are not over watered; if the soil is moist, it is sufficient.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

If there are any out of the ground, it is time that the whole were potted, such as Lachenàlia, Wachendórfia, Eùcomis, Ixia, Gladìolus, with several others. Keep them in the shade until they begin to grow; then put them on shelves near the light. Those that are growing must be kept in front of the house, to prevent them being weak. Wachendórfia has a beautiful large red tuber root; and, as the new root descends, give it a pot about six or seven inches.

OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS.

All these roots must be carefully examined. In case slugs or snails are preying upon the embryo of the flower, some of those that are farthest advanced, may be put for a few weeks in the Hot-house. It will greatly accelerate their flowering, but they must be brought out again before the florets expand, and carefully tied up, leaving room for the increase and extension of the flower stem. Give them plenty of water, and if saucers can be placed under them to retain it, it will be of advantage. Change the water every week on those that are in glasses, and keep all the growing bulbs near the light. Narcissus, Jonquils, &c. may be similarly treated.

[Flower Garden.]

JANUARY.

If the covering of the beds of choice bulbs, herbaceous plants, or tender shrubs, has been neglected last month, let it be done forthwith. The season is now precarious, and delays are dangerous. For particular directions, see [December]. Any bulbous roots that have been kept out of the ground, should be planted immediately, according to directions in [October]. Some writers have recommended keeping some of the bulbs until this month, in order to have a continued succession. Experience will prove the inefficacy of the plan, and will satisfactorily show that the difference is almost imperceptible, while the flowers are very inferior and much degenerated; and in place of having "a long continued succession of bloom," there appear, along with your finest specimens, very imperfect flowers, calculated to discourage the admirers of these "gaudy" decoratives of our flower gardens. Whereas every art employed should be to the advancement and perfection of nature.

OF FRAMING, &c.

The plants and roots that are in frames, should be protected with straw mats, and the frame surrounded with litter, or leaves, or what is more advisable, banked with earth—the former being a harbour for mice and other vermin. For full directions, see [December]. Under this head the plants, such as Auriculas, Polyanthus, Daisies, Carnations, Pinks, Gentianellas, Campanula pyramidalis, Double rocket, Double stock, or Stockgillys, Double Wall-flower, Anemone, Ranunculus, &c. as previously enumerated as frame plants, will require very little water, and be sure to give none while they are in a frozen state. If snow should cover them, the plants will keep in a fine state under it, so never remove snow from covering cold frames, even suppose it should lay for months,—nature will operate here herself.

All the above plants except Anemone and Ranunculus are kept in perfection in the Green-house; but where neither this nor framing can be obtained, they will, in most winters, keep tolerably, if well covered with litter—the roughest from the stable, straw or hay, or such like, using means to secure it from being blown over the whole garden.

OF PRUNING AND PREPARING FOR SPRING.

It is not advisable to carry on a general pruning in this month, in whatever state the weather may be. The severest frosts generally are yet to come, and too frequently in this operation, what is done now has to be repeated on the opening of spring, causing at that time work to a disadvantage; because, if pruning, when done just now, is accomplished judiciously, whatever more on the same bush is requisite to be done in spring, from the effects of frost, will be injudicious. Hence it is far preferable to delay it until the frost is over, when all can be done to advantage.

There are, undoubtedly, some shrubs that may be pruned any time, from the end of November to the first of March, such as Hibíscus syrìacus (Althea), and all its varieties, except the Double White, which is in some instances entirely killed by our severe winter, and certainly, for precaution, would be the better of some simple protection.

In many seasons, the beginning of this month is open, and admits of the operation of digging, which if it is not all done as advised last month, ought not to be delayed. The fruits of it will appear in the mellowed state of your soil in spring.

If there is any spare time, straight sticks or stakes may be prepared for summer. Tie them up in neat bundles, which will be of great service during the hurried period of the year. An opportunity of this kind should always be laid hold of; the beneficial results will in season be displayed.

[ROOMS.]

JANUARY.

Plants that are kept in rooms generally are such as require a medium temperature, say 40°. Sitting rooms or parlours, about this season, are, for the most part, heated from 55° to 65°, and very seldom has the air any admittance into these apartments, thus keeping the temperature from 15° to 25° higher than the nature of the plants requires, and excluding that fresh air which is requisite to support a forced vegetative principle. Therefore, as far as practicable, let the plants be kept in a room adjoining to one where there is fire heat, and the intervening door can be opened when desirable. They will admit sometimes of being as low as 33°.

If they be constantly kept where there is fire, let the window be opened some inches; two or three time a day, for a few minutes, thereby making the air of the apartment more congenial, both for animal and vegetable nature.

WATERING, &c.

There are very few plants killed for want of water, during winter. All that is necessary is merely to keep the soil in a moist state, that is, do not let it get so dry that you can divide the particles of earth, nor so wet that they could be beat to clay. The frequency of watering can be best regulated by the person doing it, as it depends entirely upon the size of the pot or jar in proportion to the plant, whether it is too little or too large, and the situation it stands in, whether moist or arid. Never allow any quantity of water to stand in the flats or saucers. This is too frequently practised with plants in general. Such as Cálla Æthiòpica, or African Lily, will do well, as water is its element, (like Sagittària in this country;) and the Hydrángea horténsis, when in a growing state, will do admirably under such treatment. Many plants may do well for some time, but it being so contrary to their nature, causes premature decay; a fœtid stagnation takes place at the root, the foliage becomes yellow, and the plant stunted; and in the winter season, death will ensue.

OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

In rooms the buds of Camellias will be well swelled, and on the Double White and Double Variegated sorts, perhaps they will be full blown. While in that state the temperature should not be below 34°; if lower they will not expand so well, and the expanded petals will soon become yellow and decay. If they are where there is fire heat, they must have plenty of air admitted to them every favourable opportunity, or the consequence will be, that all the buds will turn dark brown, and fall off. It is generally the case, in the treatment of these beautiful plants in rooms, that through too much intended care they are entirely destroyed. In the city, they do not agree with confined air, and they cannot get too much of pure air, if they are kept from frost or cutting winds. To sponge frequently will greatly promote the health of the plants, and add to the beauty of their foliage, as it prevents the attacks of mildew. In this season they do not require much water at root, which may be observed in the slight absorption by the soil. See this subject under the head of [Watering].

When the flowers are expanded, and droop, tie them up neatly, so that the flower may be shown to every advantage.

OF INSECTS, &c.

Insects of various kinds will be appearing on your plants. For method of destruction see [Hot-house, January]. It will not be agreeable to fumigate the room or rooms, or even to have the smell of tobacco near the house from this cause.

Many ingredients have been compounded, and prescriptions recommended, for the destruction of these nefarious pests. Many of them are altogether ineffectual. Of receipts specified in works of this kind, not a few of them (though eagerly sought for) by men of extensive practice, have been rejected. We shall give the most simple, and in part effective receipt for the destruction of the Green fly.

Take a large tub of soft water, (if the day is frosty, it had better be done in the house,) invert the plant, holding the hand, or tying a piece of cloth, or any thing of the kind, over the soil in the pot, put all the branches in the water, keeping the pot in the hand, drawing it to and fro a few times; take it out, and shake it. If any insects remain, take a small fine brush, and brush them off, giving another dip, which will clean them for the present. As soon as they appear again, repeat the process—for nothing that we have found out, or heard of, can totally extirpate them.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN GENERAL.

If you have retained any of the Cape bulbs from the last planting, let them be put in, in the early part of the month. For method, see [September]. Those that are growing must be kept very near the light, that is, close to the window, or they will not flourish to your satisfaction. The fall-flowering oxalis may be kept on the stage, or any other place, to give room to those that are to flower.

Hyacinths, Jonquils, Narcissus, Tulips, &c. will keep very well in a room where fire heat is constantly kept, providing that they are close to the window. A succession of these, as before observed, may beautify the drawing room from February to April, by having a reserved stock, in a cold situation, and taking a few of them every week into the warmest apartment.

Wherever any of the bulbs are growing, and in the interior of the room, remove them close to the light, observing to turn the pots or glasses frequently to prevent them from growing to one side, and giving them support as soon as the stems droop, or the head becomes pendant. The saucers under the Hyacinth and Narcissus especially may stand with water, and observe to change the water in the glasses, as already mentioned.

Every one that has any taste or refinement in their floral undertakings, will delight in seeing the plants in perfection; to have them so, they must be divested of every leaf that has the appearance of decaying—let this always be attended to.

[Hot-House.]

FEBRUARY.

In the early part of this month the weather generally is very cold and changeable in the middle states, and strict attention, with the greatest caution, will require to be paid to the management of the Hot-house. Most of the tropical plants commence an active state of vegetation; and if checked by temperature or otherwise, they will not recover until midsummer. The thermometer may be kept two or three degrees higher with fire heat than last month; the sun will be more powerful, and this will, in a great degree, increase the vigour of the plants. Air may be admitted when the thermometer rises to 75° or 80°, not allowing it to rise higher than the latter. In giving air, let it be done by the top sashes. It is improper to give it in any way to cause a current, for the external air is very cold, although the sun is more powerful. An inch or two on a few of the sashes, as has been previously observed, will be effectual in keeping the temperature low enough, except the weather is very mild.

With regard to firing, what was said last month may suffice for this. Always recollect that it is preferable to keep out the cold than to put it out. It will frequently happen in the time of intense frost, that the weather is dull. In such cases fire in a small degree is requisite all day.

Heavy snows ought never to be allowed to remain on the shutters while they are on the house. If the snow lies on the sashes one day, the internal heat will dissolve some of it; night coming on will freeze it to the wood work, when it will become a solid mass, and too frequently cannot be separated without much damage. If allowed to remain on for two days, the plants are very much weakened, and the foliage discoloured. Therefore let the snow be cleared off instantly, that no inconvenience may take place.

It will be observed that plants absorb more water this month than last. The quantity given will require to be increased, according to the increase of vegetation and the advancement of the season; but never give it until the soil begins to get dry, and then in such proportion as will reach the bottom of the pot. After the sun has got on the house in the morning is the best time to water, observing all the directions given in January.

OF INSECTS, &c.

Perhaps sufficient observations were given under this head last month; but the importance of keeping these disagreeable visitors out of the house, constrains us to make a few more remarks, and perhaps it may be necessary every month. Man cannot be too frequently guarded against his foes, more especially when they are summoning all their forces, and no profession has more than that of the Horticulturist. Let a strict examination be made about the end of the month for the Red spider; they will be in operation some weeks before their depredations are observed on the foliage. The under side of the leaf is their resort in the first instance, and on such plants as have been already mentioned.

Observe daily the young shoots, in case the Green fly becomes numerous. They give the foliage a very disagreeable appearance, and with most people it is intolerable, before their career is arrested. It also takes a stronger fumigation, which has frequently to be repeated the following day to the same degree, much to the injury of many of the plants, and adding to the disagreeableness of the continued vapour in the house.

OF SHIFTING PLANTS.

The Calceolàrias that were put in small pots about the beginning or middle of last month, will, if they have done well, require, about the end of this, to be put in pots a size larger.

If any of Lilìum longiflòrum, Speciòsum, or Japónicum, are wanted to flower early, and were put in the Hot-house in December, without dividing, those that are to flower will have pushed their flower stems, and can be separated from those that will not flower, and put singly into pots; the two former into five or six inch pots, while the latter require six or seven inch pots. Of those that do not flower, three or four can be put into one pot.

About the end of the month, some of the plants of Eurcúma, Amómum, Kæmpféria, Glóbba, Phrynium, Cánna, Zíngiber, Hedychium, and others that are on the dry shelf, will be offering to grow. Let them be taken out of their pots, some of their weakest shoots or tubers taken off, and the strong ones repotted: give gentle waterings until they grow freely, then give an abundance.

Dionæa mucípula, or Venus fly trap, grows best in the Hot-house, and will, about the end of the month, stand in need of being repotted. This plant is very seldom grown in any degree of perfection, having been always considered a delicate plant in collections. The operator has never had courage to treat it according to its nature in a cultivated state. If it is taken out of the pot, just when beginning to grow afresh, and divested of all the soil, leaving only a few of the young roots, (it is a bulb, and will receive no injury by so doing,) put it in new soil; when potted, place the pot in a saucer with one inch of water in it, giving always a fresh supply, when necessary. A shady and moist situation is best adapted to it; this being repeated every year, it will grow, flower, and seed in perfection.

Gesnérias, if in small pots, give larger as they advance in growth. This genus requires to be well attended to make them flower well. G. bulbósa ought to have a situation in every Hot-house. It is remarkable for its many brilliant crimson flowers, and continues in flower for a length of time. When the bulb begins to push, shake it out of the earth, putting it into a small pot; and, as soon as the roots reach the side of the earth, which will be in about one month, put it in a larger pot, and continue to do so until flowering, which will be about the first of June, observing always to keep the ball of earth entire.

Gloriósas must be repotted in the beginning of this month. Etymologists have said that this genus is named from the glorious appearance of its flowers. G. supérba is the most beautiful and curious. The roots ought to be planted one and a half inch deep, taking care not to break them; if there is a bark bed, place the pots in it. Do not water much until they begin to grow. Where there is no bark bed, put the pots into others three inches larger, filling all round with sand, and place them in the warmest part of the house. Keep the sand moist, which will assist to keep the soil in a moist state. The earth must not have much water. As the plants grow, they will require a more liberal supply; yet it is necessary, at all times, to be moderate in giving it. If well treated, the superb flowers will appear in June or July.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

With regard to cleaning the plants. Sprinkling, or syringing, is at all times, to a greater or less degree, necessary. The plants will, in this compartment, be in their first stage of growth, and, if dust or foulness be permitted to lodge on their foliage, the pores will be obstructed, the plants will become unhealthy, and the growth of insects increased.

Let all moss, litter, decayed leaves, or weeds, be cleared out of the house, the earth in the pots stirred up with a round pointed stick, and fresh earth given where required, that the air may operate therein freely.

The house ought always to be sprinkled before being swept, to prevent the dust rising.

Attend to the bulbous roots as directed last month, such as Hyacinths, Narcissus, &c.

[Green-House.]

FEBRUARY.

The directions given last month respecting the airing and temperature of the house, may still be followed, differing only in admitting air more freely as the season advances, and according to the power the sun has on the glass, which now begins to be considerable.

If the weather is tolerably mild, air may be admitted in time of sunshine, so as to keep the mercury as low as 45°, but be cautious in cold, cloudy, frosty weather. It is a practice with many in such weather to keep the shutters on the house night and day, for the space of a week, and sometimes more, never entering it; and, when the weather has induced them to look in, they find that the frost and damp have made many lifeless subjects; whereas, had the house and plants been attended to, in taking off the shutters, and giving a little fire when requisite, all would have been in safety, and many that cannot be replaced still in the collection.

When watering, strictly adhere to the directions of last month, except with Geraniums, and other soft wooded plants, which require a little more water toward the end of the month. If the days are mild and sunny about eight or nine o'clock in the morning, all the plants would be benefited by a gentle syringing, which retards the progress of insects, and accelerates vegetation.

Succulents, such as Cáctus, Mesembryánthemum, Aloes, Furchræas, Crássulas, Cotylèdons, &c. will very seldom need water, at the same time keep them from getting as dry as powder.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Similar treatment to that recommended last month will do for this. Where the soil in the tubs or pots requires to be enriched, take of bone dust or shavings, and fresh sheep dung, equal quantities; put the mixture into a large tub or barrel, until one third full; and fill it up with water. Stir it well two or three times every day for a week, then give each tree one good watering with the compound. Continue to mix up afresh, and let it stand another week, and so on until all the trees requiring it are watered. This watering will greatly enrich the soil, and invigorate the roots.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

The bulbs, of Ferrària undulata and F. antheròsa, that were taken out of the pots in October, will now require to be planted. Five inch pots will be large enough for good roots. The grand criterion for planting bulbs is when there is a protuberant appearance about the bottom, or root part of the bulb, showing, by a principle of nature, the true time for transplanting. When bulbous roots of any description appear above ground, they ought to be placed in an airy situation. They are very frequently placed under other plants, by the inexperienced, until they show their flowers, and then brought to the light, having weak flowers, and comparatively of momentary existence.

Hyacinths, Narcissus, Gladìolus, Ixia, &c. having flower stems, ought to have support, to prevent accident, especially the two former; keep them nigh the glass, and water freely. Change the water regularly in the bulb glasses, observing that their roots are never allowed to become matted with fœtid water. Any of the above plants that are in flower, might, if desired, be taken into the drawing room or parlour, washing the pots clean, and putting saucers under them, keeping therein a little water. Twice a week the decayed ones can be taken out, and supplanted with those that are coming into bloom.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA

Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and, where there is a variety, they have truly a magnificent appearance. From a good selection, endless varieties, by seed, of exquisite beauty, might be obtained by attention to the following rule. The best to select for bearing seed are Single white, Atoniana, Grandiflora, Waratah, Carnation Waratah, Fulgens, and, in many instances, the pistil, or pistillum of Variegata, Pompone, Pæoniflora, and Intermedia, are perfect, with several others. When any of the above are newly expanded, (Waratah is most perfect about one day before expansion,) take a fine camel hair pencil, and put it gently on the farina or pollen, which is a yellow substance on the anthers, and, when ripe, appears in thousands of small particles. Take the finest double kinds, then, with this on the pencil, rub lightly the stile of those intended to carry seed. Between the hours of ten and twelve in the forenoon, is the most proper time for the operation; the seed will be ripe in September or October, which will be taken notice of, and directions given. For other particulars on cleaning and syringing, see January under this head.

OF SHIFTING &c.

The best time to repot Camellias, is just when they are done flowering, which will be before they begin to grow. There are, though not frequently, some flowers after the young foliage begins to appear, and probably it would be better to discriminate the time by the buds offering to push, which will answer to those that have no flowers, as well as those that have. The most general time in shifting Camellias is in August and September, indiscriminately with other plants; and, if then not very gently handled, bad roots eventually are produced. Frequently very fine plants have been killed by probing, and breaking the young fibrous roots, thus causing mortification.

In the process, do not, by any means, break, or bruise any of the roots: and do not give large pots, with the idea of making them grow fast: it acts on most plants diametrically opposite to what is intended. A pot one or one and a half inches wider and deeper than the one they have been in previously, is sufficient. Healthy plants under five feet will not require shifting oftener than once in two years; from five feet upwards in three or four years, according to the health of the plants. This treatment, in the opinion of some, will appear not sufficient: it will be found enough with a top-dressing every year to keep them in a healthy, flowering condition, the soil being according to our description.

On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be observed if the soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it; for if so, the roots will be growing all round the ball; if otherwise, no roots will appear.

Therefore, with a blunt pointed stick, probe away all the bad earth, until you come to the roots; then put the plant in the pot about one inch in diameter, larger than the combined roots, previously putting a few small pieces of broken pots, or clean gravel, to drain off the superabundant moisture, and give light waterings, as the roots in this case will grow but slowly.

Top dress all that requires shifting, probe out the soil down to the roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not to break the fibres; then fill up with fresh earth, watering gently with a rose on the watering pot to settle it.

OF CLEANING, &c.

If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation or otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage appears, according to directions heretofore given. Likewise tie neatly all that require it, clean and top dress those that will not be shifted, having every plant and all in the Green-house, in perfect order, before the throng of spring commences. The weather will now admit, in very fine mornings, of the plants being syringed, which may be done between half past seven and half past eight: and the path or pavement should be washed out once a week, which is a great improvement to the appearance of the whole interior.

In winter whenever any glass is broken it should be immediately mended. Broken glass in cold nights causes a very destructive current of air. It should always be made water tight, for if the drops fall into the pots upon the roots, they will frequently prove fatal to the plants; therefore care ought to be taken during rain to remove those that stand in any manner exposed.

[Flower Garden.]

FEBRUARY.

Where the borders and beds were dug in the fall, and compost or a thin coating of well decayed manure given, the advantage will now in part be experienced. If the weather is open about the end of the month, the pruning should be done with the utmost despatch; that all may be prepared for a general dressing next month, and let nothing be delayed which can now properly be accomplished, under the idea that there is time enough.

OF PRUNING, &c.

Generally about the end of the month the very severe frosts are over; and when none need be apprehended that would materially injure hardy shrubs, they may freely be pruned of all dead branches, and the points cut off such shoots as have been damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs require nothing more than to be pruned of straggling, irregular, and injured branches, or of suckers that rise round the root, observing that they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim them up in a formal manner. Regular shearing of shrubs and topiary work have been expelled as unworthy of a taste the least improved by reflections on the beauty, simplicity, and grandeur of nature. In fact, the pruning of deciduous hardy shrubs should be done in such a manner as not to be observable when the plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be observed in Flower-gardens, that roses and shrubs of every description are indiscriminately cut with the shears, the Amórphas and Althèas sharing the same fate.

Robínias, Colùteas, Cyticus, Rhús, Genístas, with several of the Viburnums, and many others, bear their flowers on the wood of last year, and when thus sheared afford no gratification in flowering. And those shrubs that thus flower on the shoots of last year are perhaps worse to keep in regular order, than those to which the knife can be freely applied; but good management while young will ensure handsome free flowering plants.

Climbing shrubs, and others that are trained against outbuildings, walls, or such as are sheltered thereby, and not now in danger of suffering by frost, may be pruned and dressed. These should be neatly trimmed, and the branches moderately thinned out, tying in all the shoots straight and regular. Avoid at all times, if possible, the crossing of any shoots.

There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well with close cutting, as the Althèa, and all its varieties. These can be made either bushes or trees, and kept at any desired height. Where the wood of last year is cut to about two or three inches from the wood of the former year, the young shoots of this year will produce the largest and finest flowers, and likewise more profusely. When they have attained the desired height, let them be kept in the most natural and handsome shape that the taste of the operator can suggest. They will bear cutting to any degree.

Honeysuckles of every description may with all freedom be trimmed, providing the frost is not very severe. These are very frequently allowed to become too crowded with wood, and then superficially sheared or cut. The flowers would be much finer, and the bush handsomer, if they were regularly thinned out, divesting them of all naked and superfluous shoots. Of those that remain, shorten the shoots of last year. Where any of the honeysuckle kind has become naked at the bottom, and flowering only at the top of the trellis, or extremities of the shoots, one half of the bush should be cut to within four inches of the ground. It will throw out plenty of fine young wood, which give room for, and train them straight, and to the full extent, during summer. These shoots will flower profusely the following season, and in like manner, when thought proper, the other half can be cut.

Roses of the hardy kinds (termed garden roses) that were not attended to in November, should, if the weather permit, be dressed and pruned forthwith. In small gardens, where these are generally attached to the walls and fences, neatness should be a very particular object. If any of such bushes have got strong and irregular, the most proper method to bring them to order, will be to cut down each alternate shoot of the bush to within a few inches of the surface, thereby renovating it, and, in part, preserving the flowers. Those that are cut down will put out several luxuriant shoots, which must be regularly tacked in, spreading them in a fan shape. These, in another year, will flower well, when the others may go through the same operation. Thus, in two or three years, the bushes will have resumed a different, and more agreeable aspect. By the above treatment, these ornaments of the garden will always have a neat and healthful appearance, and the roses will be much finer. Where they are intended for the borders, they should never be allowed to get too high. In a border from four to six feet, they ought never to exceed four feet at the back of the border, and in front, one foot, after being pruned; they can be kept down by the above method. It is not advisable to cut down rose bushes all at once, unless no regard is paid to flowering. The roses that are in grass plats would have a superior appearance in every respect, if they were kept and trimmed like small trees. They may be of different sizes and heights, according to the extent of the grass plat or clump. A single stem may arise from six inches to six feet, with a head in proportion to the height of the stem. Where it is necessary to have them above two feet, and likewise to carry a good head, inoculation must be resorted to, which, in the months of June and July, will be fully treated of. All under two feet (except the weak growing kinds) will do on their own stems, taking care not to allow shoots to arise from the bottom during the summer. For directions for pruning climbing roses, see March and April.

OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &c.

As soon as the frost is out of the ground, these should be planted if the soil is not too wet. Where soil is binding, upon no consideration plant in it while wet, rather defer it until the end of March.

Shrubs, if they are well arranged, are the chief ornament, give the most pleasure, and afford the greatest delight that we enjoy in our gardens. Although they give no sort of nourishment, nor produce any edible fruits, yet they are particularly grateful and conducive to our enjoyments. Our walks in summer would be oppressive, but for their agreeable shade; in the fall and winter, we would be left exposed to the chilling winds, but for the shelter they afford.

Likewise they produce a great variety of flowers; a varied foliage, and are standing ornaments that give no great trouble. In the character of screens they are particularly useful, whether to hide disagreeable objects, or as a guard against the weather; and for either of these purposes, they can be planted nearer to the house than large trees. Or, if they are planted in masses at a distance, they soon become agreeable objects, frequently very much improve the scenery of the place, become objects of utility as well as ornament, and, in such case, afford the highest satisfaction. When formed so as to exclude offices from the view of the house, or for sheltering the latter, or for connecting the house with the garden, orchard, or any similar purpose, shrubs are both useful and interesting.

Where many shrubs are to be planted, the disposing of them properly is a matter of considerable importance to the future welfare of the whole; and, whether deciduous or evergreens be mixed or grouped, that is, indiscriminately planted together, or the evergreens planted by themselves, as is frequently done, a regular and natural arrangement is indispensable for establishing ornament.

Arranging, no doubt, depends very much on fancy; still, there ought always to be plenty of evergreens planted, that the whole may be more cheerful in winter.

If shrubberies were made to a great extent, the scenery would be much more varied and characteristic by grouping judiciously than by indiscriminately planting.

However, in small flower gardens and shrubberies, the latter has to be adopted. In such places, tall growing kinds should never be introduced, unless merely as a screen from some disagreeable object, for they crowd and confuse the whole. The dwarf and more bushy sorts should be placed next to the walks, or edges, in order that they may conceal the naked stems of the others. Generally when shrubs are planted, they are small; therefore, to have a good effect from the beginning, they should be planted much thicker than they are intended to stand. When they have grown a few years, and interfere with each other, they can be lifted, and such as have died, or become sickly, replaced, and the remainder can be planted in some other direction. Keep them always distinct, one from another, in order that they may be the better shown off. But, if it is not desired that they should be thicker planted than it is intended to let them remain, the small growing kinds may be four or five feet apart; the larger, or taller sorts, six or eight feet, according to the condition of the soil.

Thick masses of shrubbery, called thickets, are sometimes wanted. In these there should be plenty of evergreens. A mass of deciduous shrubs has no imposing effect during winter; and, as this is not the proper season for planting evergreens, (April and October being best,) small stakes can be placed in the destined spot. Planting in rows, or in any plan of a formal character, should at all times be avoided.

In planting at this season, observe that the roots are not much exposed to the air, especially if the wind be high and sharp; but it is always better, if possible, to defer the business until good, mild weather. According to directions in November, the ground will be well prepared, and only requires a hole dug for the reception of the roots, which must be considerably larger, that the roots may not be in the least confined. Break the earth well at bottom, put in as much as will receive the plant from one to two inches (according to its size) lower than it has previously been in the Nursery. If any of the roots are bruised or broken, cut them off; then place the plant in the centre of the hole, breaking fine all the soil that is put in, at the same time shaking the stem a little, that the earth may mix with the roots when full up; press all the soil down with the foot, that it may, in some degree, consolidate about the roots, and support the plant. If it is tall, or top heavy, put in a good stake for a support, and place a small, bandage between the stake and stem of the plant, shrub, or tree, where the tie is to be made, to prevent the bark from suffering by friction. Observe always before planting, if the soil is not suitable, to supply that which is congenial to the nature of the intended plant.

When shrubs or trees are to be carried to any distance, the roots should be carefully kept from air, by tying damp moss, straw, or Russia mats about them, as circumstances will admit; their success greatly depends on due attention being paid to this.

OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS.

It sometimes occurs that Hyacinths and other bulbous roots that were planted in the fall, are thrown above ground by the frost. This will take place if the soil is inclined to moisture, and they not being deep enough planted. If such is the case, cover them with wood earth, old decayed tan, or soil, whichever is most convenient; if not done, the sun and air overpower the bulbs, and, although the fibres have hold of the ground, the flowers will be miserably weak. Hyacinth bulbs, and many others of Holland, are very hardy. Even exposure to our severest frosts would not kill them, but they would be much weakened.

OF FRAMING, &c.

Where a frame or hotbed is wanted to grow some of the finest and more tender annuals, it is time, about the 20th of the month, to collect and prepare manure for the desired hotbed. And, as that operation, in many instances, is very imperfectly performed, a few observations on the subject may be useful.

Take three parts of fresh hot stable manure, with one part of fresh oak leaves. Have a sufficient quantity to make the intended bed or beds from three to four feet high. Shake and mix up both together in a compact conical heap, in order to encourage fermentation. If the weather is cold and windy, cover it with straw or leaves and boards, which is necessary to produce the desired effect. If fermentation soon takes place, it will need to be thoroughly turned over in eight or ten days. If any of it has become dry and musty from excessive heat, as you proceed, water the affected parts, pile all up neatly, and leave it protected in part as before. In five or six days more, it will have to be turned again, repeating it until the first extreme heat has been over. In neglect of this, the heat, after making up the bed, will be vehement for a week or two, frequently destroying the vegetative purity of the soil, and proving destructive to the seeds.

Allowing the manure to come to a lively heat, having no unpleasant, rancid smell, proceed to mark off your intended bed, running it east and west as nearly as possible, measure your frame, and allow the site of the bed eight inches each way larger than the frame: at the corners place a stick or rod perpendicularly. The ground ought to be higher than that around it, to prevent water from getting into the bed, which, if low, must be filled up; or, if supposed that water may lodge there, a little Brushwood might be put under the manure, which would keep it from being inundated. The manure must be built up square and level, shaking, mixing, and beating it regularly with the back of the fork. When you have it to the desired height, (three feet will be sufficient for annuals,) leave the centre of the bed a little higher than the sides, thus allowing it more to subside. When finished, put on the frame and sash or sashes, keep them close until the heat arises, covering them at night with mats and shutters. As soon as you feel the heat increased, give air by tilting the sashes a few inches to let off the steam and stagnated air, observing to close in the afternoon, and cover at night. If the heat is violent, about an inch of air might be left during the night. In about three days, if all has been properly attended to, the bed will be what is termed sweet. Then put in about six inches of fine garden soil; if heavy, mix a little sand with it. Spread it level, and, when the soil is heated through, sow in small drills from one eighth to an inch deep, according to the size of the seeds. Some very small kinds do best when sown upon the surface. When sown, give gentle sprinklings of water until they come up, when it will be necessary to give air to prevent them from being weak, or damping off, which many of them will do if they have not air regularly admitted. When they begin to crowd, thin them out, to allow those that remain to grow strong. It is better at all times to have one strong, healthy plant, than two weak and sickly objects.

[Rooms.]

FEBRUARY.

At this season, the plants call for the most assiduous attention. If the stage has been made according to our description, in very cold nights it should be drawn to the centre of the room, or at least withdrawn from the window, observing every night to close the window tight by shutters, or some substitute equally as good. And, if the temperature begins to fall below 34°, means should be adopted to prevent it, either by putting a fire in the room, or opening any adjoining apartment where fire is constantly kept. This latter method is the best where it is practicable, and ought to be studied to be made so.

Some, very injudiciously, in extreme frosts put into the room, where there is no chimney, amongst the plants, a furnace of charcoal, in order to heat the room. The effect is, that the foliage becomes dark brown, and hardened like, and many of the plants die, the rest not recovering until summer.

Watering may be attended to according to the directions of January, only observing that those that begin to grow will absorb a little more than those that are dormant.

Roses, especially the Daily, if kept in the house, will begin to show flower buds. Use means to kill the Green-fly that may attack them.

Hyacinths and other bulbs must have regular attendance in tying up, &c. Take care not to tie them too tight, leaving sufficiency of space for the stem to expand. Give those in the glasses their necessary supplies, and keep them all near the light. Never keep bulbous roots while growing under the shade of any other plant.

Camellias, with all their varied beauties, will, in this month, make a splendid show. Adhere to the directions given in the previous month, and so that new varieties may be obtained, (see Green-house, February, under the head of Camellia,) which directions are equally applicable here. When the flowers are full blown, and kept in a temperature between 34° and 44°, they will be perfect for the space of four, five, and frequently six weeks, and a good selection of healthy plants will continue to flower from December to April.

Be sure that there is air admitted at all favourable opportunities. Give a little every day that there is sunshine, if it is only for a few minutes.

[Hot-House.]

MARCH.

If this department has been regularly attended to, the plants will be in a fresh healthy state. Where there is any sickly appearance, heat has been deficient, or insects of a destructive character are preying upon them. Too much water at the root frequently causes the foliage to become yellow. It will add greatly to their general improvement, to syringe the whole twice or three times a week, observing to do it in the morning about sunrise; and it is highly necessary that the water that is used should be of the same temperature as the house; and at all times, whatever water is given to the roots, the same must be observed. For airing, see last month, observing, as the season advances, to increase the quantity.

Continue to fumigate when any of the Green-fly appears, (see[ January] for directions,) and where there are any of the plants infected with the white scaly insect, clean them as there directed. If overlooked for a few months, they will be increased tenfold. Very frequently, where there are only a few, they are neglected until the plant is overrun with them, and then it may be said, it is impossible to dislodge them entirely. Clear off all decayed leaves from the plants. These will have made fresh shoots, and the decayed leaves very much disfigure the whole collection. We would not have repeated this observation, if it was not an essential point, and one which is so frequently neglected.

OF SHIFTING PLANTS.

Those Alstrœmèrias that are growing freely, and in small pots, should be put into pots of a larger size. This genus of plants will not flower except they are encouraged with frequent shifting: they are all beautiful.

[Green-House.]

MARCH.

The plants in this compartment will begin to assume a different aspect, and air must be admitted every day if practicable, giving large portions in sunshine by the sashes regularly over all the house, opening those of the front a little, and likewise the doors in fine mild days. To perform this judiciously, give a little about eight or nine o'clock, more at ten, and the whole from eleven till twelve o'clock, shutting again by degrees.

Fire heat will now be dispensed with, but in frosty nights have the shutters on about sundown. The sun is now powerful, and the house can be early shut up in the afternoon, and will gain as much natural heat as will keep up the required temperature, viz. 36° to 40°. Perhaps there may be uncommonly cold weather; at such times be attentive to ward off danger by applying artificial heat.

OF WATERING.

Look over the pots and tubs at least every alternate day, to see where water is wanted. In watering, too much caution cannot be used, especially during winter and the commencement of spring. It was observed last month what would be the effect of too much water. It may be remarked, that if the exterior of the pot is very damp, the soil inside is too wet, and in that state is uncongenial to vegetation, which now begins to start, and ought by all possible means to be encouraged. People may be frequently observed watering all plants indiscriminately, not taking the trouble to look into or feel the state of the soil in the pots or tubs, and by going over them three or four times in this manner will be sufficient to put the plants in such a state, that they will not be recruited for some months. Hence the reason of so many sickly plants.

Caméllias, where there are collections, will continue to flower. Treat them according to the directions given last month.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Be sure they are not too wet, as too much humidity as well as aridity causes their foliage to have a yellow appearance, with this difference, that in the former case the foliage is the same to the touch as when green; but in the latter, it is soft and dry. We have observed trees in tubs and half barrels, with holes all round their sides. This is a ludicrous idea, having the appearance of keeping the water from reaching the bottom of the tub or barrel. For the best kind of tub for large trees, see August under this head. If any of the trees have stunted, straggling, or irregular heads, about the end of this month, or beginning of next, head or cut them down to the shape desired. The old wood will push fresh shoots. You may cut close, or shorten less or more, according as you desire young shoots to arise; at the same time observe that you do not cut below the graft or inoculation. Trees thus headed down should be kept until May, and then planted in the garden, (see May,) or if that cannot be done, turn it out, and reduce the ball of earth by probing with a pointed stick all round the sides and bottom of the ball, cutting off any very matted roots. If any of the roots are decayed, cut them into the sound wood. By being thus reduced, it will go into the same pot or tub if not a less one. Having a good supply of fresh earth ready, put a few inches in the bottom of the pot or tub, place the tree therein, and fill all round, at the same time pressing it down with the hand or a stick. Give very little water until there are signs of vegetation.

MYRTLES, OLEANDERS, &c.

These, with similar exotics, may be treated as above. If any of them have been infected with the scaly insect, after heading down, &c. scrub the remaining stems with a strong decoction of tobacco, heated to about 100°. Afterwards clean with soap and water.

GERANIUMS.

These will be growing freely. Keep them in airy situations, so that they may not grow too weak, and flower imperfect. To flower these plants strong, and of good colour, they must not be too crowded together, neither far from the light, and have plenty of air admitted to them, when the weather is favourable. Keep them free from the Green-fly by fumigating frequently.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Plants of this character will, by the first of the month, begin to grow. The best time to divide and fresh pot them is when the young shoots are about one inch above ground. See under the head Shifting in this month.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

Cape Bulbs, such as Lachenàlias, Oxalis, Ixias, Gladìolus, Watsònias, Babiànas, &c. will in many of the species be showing flower. Keep all of them near the glass, to prevent them from being weak and unsightly.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, &c. Those that have been kept in the Green-house during winter will be in great perfection. Have all the flower stems tied up neatly to small stakes, (which, if painted green, will look much better,) and keep them from the direct rays of the sun. In the front of the house perhaps will be the best situation. They must be freely watered while in flower. Where there is convenience, it will be essential to keep the pots in saucers containing water; it will strengthen both stems and flowers, and likewise preserve them longer in perfection. Those that are blooming should be put aside, and watered sparingly, until the foliage begins to decay, when the pots may be laid on their side to ripen the bulbs.

REPOTTING.

If you have any of the following plants that you are desirous of encouraging, they should be repotted this or next month at the latest. Large plants will not require it, if they were done in August. Pots one size larger than those that they are in, are sufficient. Acacias and Mimòsas being now united into one genus, there are above two hundred species. About one hundred and thirty belong to the Green-house. Amongst such a beautiful family, both for elegance of flower and beauty of foliage, it will be difficult to specify the most handsome and desirable for this department. A. móllis, A. glaucéscens, A. verticilàta, A. florabúnda, A. diffùsa, A. armàta, A. verniciflùa, A. decúrrens, A. armàta—weeping variety, A. púbescens, A. leucolòbia, A. decípiens, A. fragràns, A. pulchélla, A. lophántha, A. myrtifòlia, &c. These will afford a great variety of foliage, and are very desirable, flowering principally in winter, or early in spring. The flowers of those belonging to the Green-house are of a yellow or straw colour; the most of those that are red or purple, with the celebrated medicinal species, belong to the Hot-house, for which see [May]. There are some of the species very subject to the white scaly insect, which must be attended to, that they may not get to any extent.

Agapánthus, three species. They are all blue flowers. A. umbellàtus is very celebrated, and well known in the collections of the country. There is a variegated variety of it highly desirable, the foliage being white striped, and frequently the flower stem and the flower are as good as the species. They have very strong roots, and require plenty of freedom. Plants are always large before they flower, and when the pots, by frequent shifting, become inconvenient, the plant should be divested of all the earth, and, if too large, divide it, cutting off the strongest of the fibres; then they will admit of being put into smaller pots. If the above operation is performed in August or September, it will not retard their flowering, which, when well grown, is very handsome, the flower stem arising about three feet, and crowned with twenty or thirty brilliant blue blossoms, continuing to bloom successively.

Alonsòas, five species, all soft wooded, small, shrubby plants, with scarlet flowers. A. incisifòlia is known amongst us under the name of Hemímeris urticifólia, and A. lineàris as H. lineàris. If well treated, they form very handsome plants, and flower freely. They will not bear strong fumigation; and, when the house is under that operation, they must be put on the floor of the Green-house, where they will not be so much affected. They flower from May to August.

Aùcuba japónica is the only species. The flowers are small and almost insignificant, colour purple; but the foliage is a desirable object, being yellow spotted, or blotched. It is tolerably hardy, and withstands our winters. It prefers shade, and, if the situation was such when planted out, it would grow more freely. The hot rays of the sun are very prejudicial to its growth. It is an evergreen shrub, and very desirable.

Anagyris, three species, evergreen, pea flowered shrubs, flowers yellow, nothing very attractive in either of the species. A. fœtida is found in many collections, and we have no doubt but it may prove, in this country, a hardy shrub.

Azàleas, seven of the China species, which are those we shall enumerate here. The one that has been longest known in the collections of this country is A. índica, a most splendid shrub, with scarlet cup flowers and dark spots. A. índica àlba, flowers of the purest white, and rather larger than the former. A. índica purpùrea pleno, double purple. This variety is not so fine as any of the others. Properly it is not purple, or, if it may be termed so, the colour is very light; the flower irregular. A. índica phœnícea is magnificent. The colour is darker, and the flower larger than A. índica, and a free grower. A. sinénse, flowers large, yellow. The wood is much stronger than any of those previously mentioned. It bears a very high character in Europe. It has not yet flowered in our collection, but appears as if it would in the ensuing season (1832). All the above ought to have a situation in every Green-house. They flower from March until May. There are two other varieties which have not come under our observation. Do not shift or repot them, if they are in flower, until the flowering is over. The pots must be well drained; and the plants require a shaded situation. If they are properly treated, they will be completely covered with their showy flowers every year.

Aòtus, two species, both fine leguminose plants. A. villòsa, is a native of Van Dieman's Land; and A. virgàta, is from New Holland. The former is preferable. Both have yellow flowers, and are small evergreen shrubs.

Andersónia sprengelioídes, is the only species, and closely allied to Epácris, flowers small, and of a pale yellow colour. Drain the pots well; flowers from March to August.

Arbutus, eight exotic species, and six varieties. They are generally hardy in England; but we question if they stand out in the middle states. A. unìdo rùbra has the finest crimson flowers; A. serratifólia, the largest panicles; and A. Andráchne, the finest foliage. They flower in nodding panicles; the flowers are principally white, tinged with green, and wax-like. They bear a pretty fruit similar to a strawberry; hence it is called strawberry tree, and the fruit will remain on the bush a long time. They are very fine evergreens, and if any of them become acclimated, they will be a great acquisition to our gardens.

Bánksias. There are about thirty-two species, all curious in flower, and handsome and various in foliage; flowers in large heads and cone-shaped anthers, mostly green, and continue a considerable time in flower; produces a cone in shape of a pine, but not imbricate. The substance is as hard as bone, and contains many seeds. A cone of B. grándis in our possession weighs one pound twelve ounces, and contains about 107 seeds. Those most admired for the foliage are B. dentata, B. æmula, B. serràta, B. latifòlia, B. grándis, which is the largest. B. speciòsa has the longest foliage. B. Cunninghámii, B. spinulòsa, B. palludòsa, and B. rèpens, these will afford a good variety. B. verticillàta is entirely different in appearance from the others.

They should be well drained, and placed in an airy part of the Green-house. Great care should be taken that they do not get too dry, for they seldom recover if allowed to flag for want of water. This genus is named in honour of Sir Joseph Banks, a distinguished promoter of the study of natural history.

Bignònias. Those of this genus belonging to the Green-house have been divided to Tecòma, and there are only three for this department. T. austràlis known as B. Pandòræ; T. grandiflòra, known as B. grandiflòra, and has large and magnificent clusters of orange-coloured flowers, flowering from May to October.

Tecòma capénsis is a very pretty climbing shrub, a free grower, and flowers abundantly; flowers in dense panicles, colour orange and red, continues for several weeks in succession from April to August, greatly esteemed in Europe where it is known; being now in a few of our collections, will soon be generally admired.

Blètia hyacinthìna is the only species belonging to the Green-house, once known as Cymbídium hyacinthìnum. It is herbaceous, and when it begins to grow divide the root, putting the best into five inch pots. The spike of flowers are hyacinth-like, and of a beautiful purple, flowering from April to July.

Borònia is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants, contains about nine species; most of them have been universally admired; the flowers are star-like, and rose-coloured, and some of them sweet-scented. B. pinnàta grows and flowers freely. B. serrulàta, foliage serrated and very crowded, bearing the flowers on the extremity of the shoot. B. alàta has a fine appearance, and grows handsomely. The foliage is winged and pinnate, of a hardy nature, and easy culture, flowers freely. They are in flower about April and May, and continue a considerable time; are subject to mildew if not frequently syringed; drain the pots well.

Bouvárdias, two species. B. triphylla is well known amongst us, has brilliant scarlet flowers, and when well grown, will flower beautifully from May till September. To keep the plants, they should be frequently renewed; otherwise they are liable to grow straggling, and become subject to the small white scaly insect. B. Jacquìnæ we suspect has got confounded with the former, being very little different, except the foliage, which is more pointed. They flower from the young wood, and often throw their foliage in winter.

Brachysèmas, two species, both evergreen climbers. B. latifòlium has the best foliage, and large purple leguminose flowers. B. undulàtum, flowers yellow, and more plentiful than the former, continuing in long successions. The pots require to be well drained; very few plants of either in the country.

Burchéllias, two species. B. capénsis is a beautiful dwarf evergreen shrub, with tubular scarlet flowers in large terminate clusters; when well treated, grows and flowers freely, and highly deserving of attention. B. parviflòra differs from the above in the flowers being smaller and paler, and the foliage more pointed.

Beaufórtias, only two species. B. decussàta is splendid; the flowers come out of the wood with stamens in fine parcels, colour bright scarlet, foliage decussate, oval, and many-nerved, bloom persistent, and much esteemed. B. spársa, in flower similar to the other, colour light pink, foliage scattered, both easy of culture, and flower abundantly.

Brùnias, about ten species, have heath-like foliage, very fine, generally, on close observation, found to be three cornered. The flowers are white and globular, the plants when young are very handsome; the finest are B. nodiflòra, B. lanuginósa, B. comòsa, B. abrotanoídes, and B. formòsa. They require an airy situation, and in summer to be protected from the powerful rays of the sun. Drain the pots well.

Bósea yervamóra, Golden rod tree, leaves large, alternate, ovate, acute, with purple veins and nerves, flowers brown, in axillary dense panicles, grows strong and freely.

Bæckias, above twelve species, of heath-like appearance, and except for variety, are not otherwise desirable. B. camphoràta is camphor-scented; B. pulchélla is very neat; and B. virgàta flowers freely. Pots should be well drained. The flowers of all the genus are white.

Billardiéras, about five species, are desirable as climbers, being of rapid growth, and abundant in flower. B. longiflòra, fruits freely, and has fine blue berries which look handsome. B. mutábilis is changeable from purple to scarlet. The fruit of B. scàndens is covered with down, flowers straw coloured. B. fusifórmis differs in colour from the others, the flowers being blue. They require to be well drained.

Calceolàrias, about fourteen species, besides many hybrid varieties. C. angustifòlia, and C. integrifòlia are the best of the shrubby species. C. plantagínea, C. corymbósa, C. purpùrea, and C. hopiána, and of the hybrid varieties, C. micàns and C. hybrìda are very fine; but we understand they are numerous, and some of them very splendid.

To grow any of these properly, they should be divided a few weeks after they begin to grow; put them in small pots at first, and enlarge them gradually. Where there is a hot-house, after dividing them, it will greatly promote their growth to keep them in it a few weeks near the glass, until the weather gets mild, when they may be removed to the Green-house. The flowers are principally yellow. C. Fothergíllii, purpùrea, and archnoidea are purple; the hybrids are spotted with red and brown, and some of them streaked many colours. They continue a long time in flower.

Calothámnus, four species. This genus is named in allusion to the splendid appearance of the branches, covered with scarlet flowers of curious construction, which come out of the old wood. All the species are of easy culture, and very like dwarf pines. C. quadríffida has the largest flowers; C. claváta the most abundant. They are all evergreens, and flower from April to November.

Caméllias. There are about nine species, celebrated over the known world as furnishing the domestic drug called tea, in universal use, besides many flowering trees and shrubs as universally admired. Oil may be expressed from the seeds of all the species, and used as that of hemp and poppy in cookery. C. víridis and C. bohèa are said to be the species which supply the tea. Some have asserted that there is only one shrub used, but by examination it may be easily perceived that there are leaves of various shape and texture, some of them similar to C. sasanqua. Dr. Abel gives an explicit detail of the growing and manufacturing process of tea, from which, in compliment to our fair patrons, we give a few extracts:

"The tea districts of China extend from the twenty-seventh to the thirty-first degree of north latitude. It seems to succeed best on the sides of mountains. The soils from which I collected the best specimens consisted chiefly of sand-stone, schistus, or granite. The plants are raised from seeds sown where they are to remain. Three or more are dropped into a hole four or five inches deep; these come up without further trouble, and require little culture, except that of removing weeds, till the plants are three years old. The more careful stir the soil, and some manure it, but the latter practice is seldom adopted. The third year the leaves are gathered, at three successive gatherings, in February, April and June, and so on until the bushes become stunted or slow in their growth, which generally happens in from six to ten years. They are then cut in to encourage the production of fresh roots.

"The gathering of the leaves is performed with care and selection. The leaves are plucked off one by one: at the first gathering only the unexpanded and tender are taken; at the second those that are full grown; and at the third the coarsest. The first forms what is called in Europe imperial tea; but as to the other names by which tea is known, the Chinese know nothing; and the compounds and names are supposed to be made and given by the merchants at Canton, who, from the great number of varieties brought to them, have an ample opportunity of doing so. Formerly it was thought that green tea was gathered exclusively from C. víridis; but that is now doubtful, though it is certain that there is what is called the green tea district and black tea district; and the varieties grown in the one district differ from those of the other. I was told by competent persons that either of the two plants will afford the black or green tea of the shops, but that the broad thin-leaved plant (C. víridis) is preferred for making the green tea.

"The tea leaves being gathered, are cured in houses which contain from five to twenty small furnaces, about three feet high each, having at top a large flat iron pan. There is also a long low table covered with mats, on which the leaves are laid, and rolled by workmen, who sit round it: the iron pan being heated to a certain degree by a little fire made in the furnace underneath, a few pounds of the fresh-gathered leaves are put upon the pan; the fresh and juicy leaves crack when they touch the pan, and it is the business of the operator to shift them as quickly as possible, with his bare hands, till they cannot be easily endured. At this instant he takes off the leaves with a kind of shovel resembling a fan, and pours them on the mats before the rollers, who, taking small quantities at a time, roll them in the palm of their hands in one direction, while others are fanning them, that they may cool the more speedily, and retain their curl the longer. This process is repeated two or three times, or oftener, before the tea is put into the stores, in order that all the moisture of the leaves may be thoroughly dissipated, and their curl more completely preserved. On every repetition the pan is less heated, and the operation performed more closely and cautiously. The tea is then separated into the different kinds, and deposited in the store for domestic use or exportation.

"The different sorts of black and green arise, not merely from soil, situation, or the age of the leaf; but after winnowing the tea, the leaves are taken up in succession as they fall; those nearest the machine being the heaviest, are the gunpowder tea; the light dust the worst, being chiefly used by the lower classes. That which is brought down to Canton, then undergoes a second roasting, winnowing, packing, &c. and many hundred women are employed for these purposes." Kæmpfer asserts that a species of Caméllia as well as Olea fràgrans is used to give it a high flavour.

C. oleíferia is cultivated principally in China for the oil which is expressed from its seeds, which is much used in the domestic cookery of the country; flower single white.

C. Sesánqua, Lady Banks's. The foliage of this species is very small, and paler, and the green not so fine, as any of the others. It seeds freely, and is often used as the female parent in producing new varieties; flowers small white and single, with many anthers. There are a Semi-double, and Double variety of it of the same colour.

C. maliflòra is figured in the Botanical Register, under the name of C. Sesánqua rósea. The foliage is about the same shape as C. Sesánqua, but the appearance and habit of the plant are completely different, growing very freely and quite erect; flowers very abundant. A large plant of it will continue in bloom for the space of three months. The flowers are of about six weeks' duration, colour and shape of Rose de meaux; has been highly esteemed. One plant of it has been sold for one hundred and eighty dollars.

C. Kíssii. We believe it is single white, has not come under our observation, the only species that is a native of Nepaul.

C. reticuláta was brought from China by Capt. Rawes. The foliage is very characteristic, being rougher than any of the other flowers, about five inches in diameter, brilliant scarlet, and semi-double. It was introduced into Europe in 1822, and is still very scarce. Twenty-five dollars are paid for a small twig of it. From present appearance, it will never be so plenty as many of the others, being tardy of propagation; only a few eyes on the extremity of each shoot make young wood, and if these are cut off, the plant does not seem to push afresh.

C. japónica, the original of many splendid varieties, probably to the amount of one hundred. The true one is in very few collections; it is single striped.

C. japónica rùbra is the single red of our collections, and used as stocks to enarch, graft, or inoculate the other varieties upon, being easily struck by cuttings. It seeds very freely, when the stile is impregnated, and the seedlings make the strongest and best stocks.

C. japónica álba, single white. It is mentioned in some of our catalogues, as being very sweet-scented, though not very perceptible to us. The foliage and wood are very strong, being a free seeding variety, consequently particularly desirable, as a stock to grow new varieties from. Its flowers are large and abundant.

C. semidúplex. This is a flower with two rows of petals. Some good varieties might be got from it, if properly impregnated.

C. rùbro-plèno is a strong growing and free-flowering variety. The flowers are large, double red, petals irregular, with the anthers in bunches amongst them; flowers are of long duration and showy.

C. cárnea, frequently known as Middlemist's blush. Colour pink, one of the original varieties, and frequently produces seeds; grows freely.

C. myrtifólia, known in some collections as involúta. There are two varieties of it, major and minor; the former is certainly the best, and has a very handsome, large, and regular red flower; the centre frequently is pink and purple; it is much the shape of Double white, only the petals are more cupped. The flower is of considerable duration. It is not properly named. The foliage, though the smallest of the variety, is much larger than that of any of our common myrtles, which might make many mistake its character; and another prominent feature is, the leaves are much recurved and shining.

C. hexanguláris. The flower is six angled, very compact, and dark red. It is an esteemed variety, and there has unfortunately been another inferior, substituted for it, in some of our collections. The foliage is similar in shape to anemoniflòra, with the nerves more sunk; the flowers are of an ordinary size.

C. atro-rùbens, Loddiges' red, is a very fine variety; colour dark red outside, petals large inside, small and irregular, forming a very distinct character; foliage stiff; grows freely and flowers well; and of long duration. We have seen a flower stand fresh on the plant two months; however, that cannot be a rule, as it depends on the situation.