[All rights reserved.

THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN:

A COMPENDIUM PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE
SUDAN GOVERNMENT.

EDITED BY
LIEUT.-COLONEL COUNT GLEICHEN, C.V.O., C.M.G., D.S.O.
(Late Director of Intelligence, Sudan Government and Egyptian Army, and Sudan Agent, Cairo.)

Volume II.
(ROUTES.)

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE,
BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE,
PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HIS MAJESTY.

And to be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from
WYMAN AND SONS, Ltd., Fetter Lane E.C.; or
OLIVER & BOYD, Edinburgh; or
E. PONSONBY, 116, Grafton Street, Dublin.

1905.
Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence.

(Wt. 8207 1000 9 | 05—H & S 3874)

EDITORIAL NOTE TO VOLUME II.

The Routes in this Volume have been arranged according to the Chapters in Vol. I.

Additional matter is given in the shape of an Appendix, describing the main Routes leading out of the Sudan.

Almost the whole Volume has been edited by Captain H. H. S. Morant (Assistant Director of Intelligence), to whom my best thanks are due; Captain W. Lloyd is chiefly responsible for the excellent Routes in Kordofan.

Intermediate places where water is to be found (except those obviously on a river) are given in italics.

[It being impossible to provide a map showing even all the terminal places mentioned, intending travellers are referred to the map at the [end of Vol. I,] and to the Sudan Ordnance Survey Maps (scale, 1:250,000), a list of which is given in Vol. I, [ p. 349.]]

A certain number of copies of each Chapter in this Volume have been printed and bound separately in strong paper covers for practical use when travelling. Application in Egypt should be made to the Director of Intelligence, Egyptian War Office, Cairo, or to any Bookseller in Great Britain, of whom copies may be obtained, price One Shilling each.

G.

Berlin, 2nd April, 1905.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

VOL. II. (PART III.)
(ROUTES.)

CHAPTERS I and II.
Nil.
[CHAPTERIII.]
NORTH-EASTERNSUDAN.
PAGE
No.[1.] —No. 6 Station to Deraheib.(Talbot)1
„[2.] —Suakin to Berber —(α) Northerly route. (Sparkes)5
(β) Southerly „ „ 9
„[3.] —Berber to Kassala.(Various)12
„[4.] —Suakin to Tokar.(Various)14
„[5.] —Trinkitat to Tokar.(Bower)15
„6. —Suakin to Erkowit —[(α)] viâ Tamaneb and K. Arab.(Powell)16
[(β)] viâ Kolkalai Pass.(Powell)16
„7. —Erkowit to Sinkat —[(α)] viâ Baramil Plains.(Powell)17
[(β)] viâ K. Gebet.(Powell)17
„[8.] —Kassala to Suakin,viâ Filik and Maman. (Mitford)18
„[9.] —Tokar to Kassala,viâ K. Baraka. (Various)22
„[10.] —Kassala to Maman direct.(Morant)26
„[11.] —Adarama to Bir Oshi (K.Langeb). (Kenrick)27
„[12.] —El Getite to Adarama.(Kenrick)29
„[13.] —Umbrega to Sofi.(Morant)30
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[123.] —Aswan to Deraheib.(Appendix)195
„[19.] —Gedaref to Kassala. (Chap.IV)41
„[14.] —Khartoum N. to Kassala.(Chap. IV)32
„[124.] —Kassala to Massaua.(Appendix)196
„[125.] —Takarashorit to Umbrega.(Appendix)200
[CHAPTERIV.]
EASTERN SUDAN.
No.[14.] —Khartoum N. to Kassala,viâ Geili, Rera and Asubri. (Talbot,Boulnois and Morant)32
„[15.] —Goz Regeb to Shendi,viâ Abu Deleig. (Boulnois)36
„[16.] —El Damer to Fasher.(Bulkeley Johnson)36
„[17.] —Khartoum N. to Abu Deleig.(Native information)39
„[18.] —Rufaa to Geili.(Talbot)40
„[19.] —Gedaref to Kassala.(Mitford and Morant)41
„[20.] — „ Gallabat. (Collinsonand Morant)43
„[21.] —Abu Haraz to Gedaref.(Mitford)45
„[22.] —Gedaref, viâ Hawata,to Abu Haraz. (Bulkeley Johnson)47
„[23.] —Sofi viâ Abu Guludto Seraf Said. (Smith)48
„[24.] —Famaka to Abu Ramla.(Gwynn)49
„[25.] —Karkoj to Hawata. (BonhamCarter)50
„[26.] —Roseires to Abu Shaneina.(Gwynn)50
„[27.] —Senga, viâ Durraba,to Um El Rug. (Amery)51
„[28.] —Mouth of Khor Gelagu (Dinder)to Gallabat. (Amery)52
„[29.] —Gallabat to Wad Medani,viâ R. Rahad. (Lewin)53
„[30.] —Itinerary of Blue Nile.(Amery)57
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[126.] —Gallabat to Chelga.(Appendix)202
„[127.] —Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa.(Appendix)204
„[128.] —Addis Abbaba to Gallabat.(Appendix)206
„[130.] —Roseires to Dunkur.(Appendix)215
„[131.] —Dunkur to Gallabat.(Appendix)217
[CHAPTERV.]
CENTRAL SUDAN.
No.[31.] —Khartoum to Wad Medani,Sennar, Senga and Karkoj (L. B. Blue Nile).(Compiled)61
„[32.] —Khartoum to Goz Abu Guma andJebelein, viâ R. B. White Nile. (Conolly,Boulnois)63
„[33.] — „ Gule, viâ Managil andSegadi. (Morant)66
„[34.] —Managil to Sennar.(Smyth)70
„[35.] —Keili, viâ Gule, toSenga. (Gorringe)70
„[36.] —Senga to Jerok, viâK. Ofat. (Roberts)71
„[37.] —Roseires to Keili,viâ Gule. (Smith)73
„[38.] —Fazogli to Gezan.(Jackson)73
„[39.] —Gezan to Kurmuk.(Gwynn)75
„[40.] —Gule to Renk.(Morant)75
„[41.] —Jebelein to Renk.(Wilson)76
„[42.] —Renk to Kaka Old WoodStation. (Morant)77
„[43.] — „ Kodok (R. B.) partly alongTelegraph line. (Wilson)79
„[44.] —J. Ahmed Agha to Awitong andKash-Kash. (Wilson)82
„[45.] —Itinerary up Khor Adar.(Wilson)83
„[46.] —J. Jerok to Wad Deluka (52miles S.E. of Melut). (Smith)84
„[47.] —Uryong (Sobat) to oppositeKodok. (Gwynn)85
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[133.] —Kirin to Kodok.(Appendix)222
„[132.] —Fazogli to Kirin.(Appendix)218
„[129.] —Addis Abbaba to Famaka.(Appendix)210
[CHAPTERVI.]
SOUTH-EASTERNSUDAN.
No.[48.] —Nasser to Uryong.(Gwynn)87
„[49.] —Gokjak to Keik (Khor Filus).(Wilson)88
„[50.] —Itinerary up the Bahr ElZeraf. (Stanton)90
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[47.] —Uryong to opposite Kodok.(Chapter V)85
„[134.] —K. Bosuk, viâ K.Eine, to Goha. (Appendix)225
„[135.] —Goha, viâ K. Barsu,to Bosuk. (Appendix)225
„[136.] —Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa.(Appendix)226
„[137.] —Asosa to K. Bosuk,viâ K. Surgalla. (Appendix)227
„[138.] —Gore to Abwong.(Appendix)227
[CHAPTER VII.]
BAHR EL GHAZAL.
No.[51.] —Meshra el Rek to Tonj.(Lloyd)93
„[52.] —Wau to Meshra el Rek.(Lloyd)94
„[53.] —Tonj Post to Wau.(Lloyd)95
„[54.] —Tonj Post to Rikta’s Village.(Lloyd)97
„[55.] —Wau to Tembura.(Bethel)99
„[56.] —Wau to Deim Zubeir.(Boulnois and Sparkes)100
„[57.] —Chak Chak to Deim Zubeir.(Fell)101
„[58.] —Deim Zubeir to Kossinga.(Boulnois)102
„[59.] —Kossinga to Wau.(Boulnois)103
„[60.] — „ Hofrat el Nahas.(Sparkes)104
„[61.] —Ragaa to Deim Zubeir.(Sparkes)105
„[62.] —Kojali to Tonj.(Sparkes)106
„[63.] —Tonj to Rumbek.(Armstrong)107
„[64.] —Rumbek to Shambe.(Armstrong)108
„[65.] —Rumbek to Darago’s andM’volo. (Wood)109
„[66.] —M’volo to Kiro.(Sparkes)109
„[67.] —Rumbek to Awodi.(Armstrong)111
„[68.] — „ Mangi’s.(Boardman)113
N.B.—Another route which applies tothis chapter is:—
No.[101.] —El Obeid to Dar El Jange.(Chapter VIII)151
[CHAPTERVIII.]
KORDOFAN.
No.[69.] —Sheikh Sadik to Homra.(Various)117
„[70.] —El Dueim to Homra.(Various)117
„[71.] —Homra to El Obeid,viâ Bara. (Various)118
„[72.] —El Dueim to Obeid,viâ Hashaba. (Lloyd and More)119
„[73.] —Gedid to El Dueim,viâ Um Deisis. (Lloyd and Talbot)120
„[74.] —Shat Wells to El Obeid,viâ J. Kon. (Talbot and Lloyd)120
„[75.] —Shawal to Gedid, Dar ElAhamda and Tagale. (Morant)122
„[76.] —Goz Abu Guma to Dar ElAhamda. (Morant)124
„[77.] — „ „ El Obeid, viâSherkeila and Rahad. (Leveson)125
„[78.] —Gedid to El Rahad.(Lloyd)126
„[79.] —Kaka to opposite Jebelein.(Wilson)127
„[80.] —Omdurman to El Safia Wells.(Smyth)129
„[81.] —Debba to El Obeid,viâ Safia. (Currie)130
„[82.] —Shegeig to El Showa,viâ Kagmar. (Lloyd)131
„[83.] —Bara to Kagmar.(Lloyd)132
„[84.] —El Obeid to Foga,viâ Masrub. (Lloyd)133
„[85.] — „ „ viâ Gleit, etc.(Carter)134
„[86.] —Abu Agaga to Bara.(O’Connell)135
„[87.] —Foga to Kaja (Bir Soderi).(Mahon)136
„[88.] —Nahud to El Fasher.(Carter)137
„[89.] — „ Bur Islam.(Townsend)137
„[90.] — „ Foga. (Lloyd andWilkinson)138
„[91.] —Foga to Um Badr.(Wilkinson)139
„[92.] —Bara to Foga.(O’Connell)140
„[93.] —Nahud to El Eddaiya andMuglad. (Mahon)141
„[94.] —Foga to El Eddaiya,viâ Kaja Serrug. (Carter)142
„[95.] —El Obeid to Nahud (direct).(Meyricke)143
„[96.] — „ „ viâ Abu Zabbat.(Lloyd and Townsend)144
„[97.] — „ El Eddaiya, viâSungikai. (Lloyd and Townsend)145
„[98.] — „ Keraia (J. Tagale),viâ J. Daier. (Various)146
„[99.] —Keraia to Rashad and Gedir.(Various)148
„[100.] —Kaka to Gedir.(Mahon)148
„[101.] —El Obeid to Dar El Jange.(Wilkinson)151
„[102.] —River Kir to Fauwel.(Wilkinson)156
„[103.] —El Obeid to Sungikai,viâ El Atshan. (Lyall)157
„[104.] —Dilling to El Obeid,viâ Sungikai, etc. (Lyall)157
„[105.] —Routes in Dar Nuba.(Leveson)158
[CHAPTER IX.]
NORTH-WESTERNSUDAN.
No.[106.] —Selima to Nile, oppositeKosha. (Hodgson)167
„[107.] —Dongola to Lagia El Kebir.(Hodgson)167
„[108.] — „ Bir Sultan.(Hodgson)169
„[109.] —Debba to El Obeid.(Compiled)171
„[110.] — „ Omdurman.(Ravenscroft)172
„[111.] — „ „ viâ Elai.(Compiled)174
„[112.] —Ambugol or Korti to Metemma.(Compiled)174
„[113.] —Korti to Bayuda and Sedeiri.(Bunbury and Sudley)178
„[114.] —Merowe to Jakdul.(Talbot)179
„[115.] — „ Berber. (Smyth andFriend)181
„[116.] —Sani to El Zuma, viâJura. (Henry)181
„[117.] —Jura to Kirbekan.(Henry)182
„[118.] —Omdurman to Gabra.(Talbot)183
„[119.] —Gabra to Korti.(Talbot)184
„[120.] —Korti to Bayuda Wells.(Talbot)186
„[121.] —Bayuda Wells to Tangasi.(Talbot)187
N.B.—Other routeswhich apply to this chapter are:—
No.[81.] —Debba to El Obeid,viâ Safia. (Chapter VIII)130
„[122.] —Arbain Road. (Appendix)189
[APPENDIX.]
ROUTES PARTLYOUTSIDE THE SUDAN.
No.[122.] —The Arbain Road.(Various)189
„[123.] —Aswan to Deraheib.(Bramly)195
„[124.] —Kassala to Massaua.(Morant)196
„[125.] —Takarashorit (K. Gash) toUmbrega (Setit). (Morant)200
„[126.] —Gallabat to Chelga.(Parker)202
„[127.] —Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa.(Parker)204
„[128.] —Addis Abbaba, viâGojjam and L. Tsana, to Gallabat. (Baird)206
„[129.] — „ to Famaka.(Gwynn)210
„[130.] —Roseires to Abu Ramla andDunkur. (Gwynn)215
„[131.] —Dunkur to Gallabat.(Gwynn)217
„[132.] —Fazogli to Kirin.(Jackson)218
„[133.] —Kirin to Kodok.(Gwynn)222
„[134.] —K. Bosuk, viâ K.Eine, to Goha. (Smith)225
„[135.] —Goha, viâ K. Barsu,to Bosuk. (Smith)225
„[136.] —Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa.(Smith)226
„[137.] —Asosa to K. Bosuk,viâ Surgalla. (Smith)227
„[138.] —Gore to Abwong.(Wilson)227
„[139.] —Gondokoro to Uganda.(Dugmore)231
„[140.] —Roads in the Lado Enclave.(Various)236

[Map]

Part III.
ROUTES.

CHAPTERS I. and II.
(Nil.)

CHAPTER III.

(NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)

1.—No. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) to DERAHEIB.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1902.

General.The road described below is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat, and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.

Nature of road.There are no gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to make nothing of it.

Water.Water is scarce and not always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made to carry at least two nights’ water.

Fuel and shade.Once the W. Telat Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat Abda.

Grain.No grain is obtainable. Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s rainfall.

Place.Hamla Hours.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.Inter-mediate.Total.
No. 6 Station (S.G.R.)————No. 6 Station on Halfa-Khartoum Railway,127 miles from Halfa, and 1,555 feet above sea level.
British foreman. Telegraph office.
No station buildings nor accommodationfor persons detained there.
Well with steam pump gives 12,000 gallonsdaily. Water contains some salts, but drinkable. Nile water can beobtained for small parties from station supply. Some “selem” bushesgive firewood and a little grazing for camels. No inhabitantsexcept railway staff. No supplies.
Is the base of the staff of the Egypt andSudan Mining Syndicate now developing Um Nabari or Nabadimine.
77——The track, now pretty well marked, makesstraight for the N. end of J. Keheli, after rounding which it makesfor J. Mindara, keeping a couple of miles to the N. of it. Roadpractically level and mostly good trotting surface, though sand alittle heavy in places.
3¼10¼——Road crosses a low saddle and descendsinto one of the branches of the Wadi Murrat, amongst a lot of lowtangled hills. After following the wadi for 300 yards or so,another saddle is crossed to cut off a bend, after which the wadiis followed till it joins the main wadi, just before the fort ofMurrat is reached.
Murrat111¼—34The engineer of the Egypt and SudanMining Syndicate has fitted a pump in one of the wells in the wadi,which gives cleaner, though not less bitter water than before. TheArabs and Berberi servants drink it uncomplainingly, but Europeansare advised to avoid it if they can. About 10 miles slightly N. ofW. up the main Wadi Murrat is the site of the Um Nabari or Nabadimine, now being developed by the Company. Road quite easy along thewadi.
1½35½On leaving Murratfort the track keeps down the wadi for 1½ miles, then turns off tothe left over somewhat stony ground, and, crossing a saddle and thehead of another affluent of the Wadi Murrat about 1½ miles furtheron, descends easily into the basin of the Wadi Dayob. Acrossslightly undulating ground, aiming just to the left of J. AbuDayob, a rocky sand-covered hill (with a pillar on the top) which,though only 200 or 300 feet high, stands up well amidst itssurroundings, and turns down the wadi past its northern foot.
112¼1½37
1¾14441
½41½
½14½½42Along the wadi passing a gorge about 50yards wide; wadi then turns rather to S.E. There is some camelgrazing here.
115½——Road now turns to left out of wadi, and,after crossing low ridges for about one hour and passing near some“selem” bushes in one of the wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 milebroad, and heads generally for J. Kerar Berar.
½163¾45¾Half-a-mile further on J. Mosiai (pillaron top) is at right angles about 1 to 2 miles distant on left.
1½17½——Track leaves plainover low ridges and descends by gentle slope obliquely to WadiMosiai. There are a few of the peculiar dom palms of the countryabove where wadi is struck, and a little “selem” and some scrubbyplants below. Track keeps down wadi generally, till it gets wellclear of the low hills, when it turns half left over open plain,good going, and passes an isolated patch of “selem” bushes inGabgaba.
118½——
1¾20¼——
W. Gabgaba222¼1661¾The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ to 1½ mileswide in places, consisting of several channels separated by flatgravel. The bed itself is sandy, honeycombed with rat holes, andvery bad going. Immense quantities of the “handal” plant grow init, and in years of good rainfall dura is cultivated.
2¼24½667¾Track, leaving the wadi half right, keepsover a gravel plain with gentle slopes till it strikes the W. TelatAbda just outside the low hills.
There is plenty of “selem” in the wadi,giving good camel grazing and abundance of firewood.
Bir Telat Abda327½8¼76Track keeps up wadi, occasionally makingshort cuts to right to get better going, as wadi is heavy inplaces, to well at foot of rather higher hill on left bank whichhas two stone pillars.
The well gives good water, but not verymuch of it. About ¼ mile higher up under the right bank where thewadi forks is another well generally used for watering camels. Fromhere the roads to Abu Tabag and Naba branch. That to Naba keepsstraight on, that is up the right-hand branch of the fork. Naba isabout 17 miles from Telat Abda, whence it draws its drinking water.Near Telat Abda well is a sayal tree that gives good shade.
J. Liseiwi330½682The track starts up the Khor Liseiwi, orleft-hand branch of the fork, past the upper well, but soon turnsto right from it to cut off a corner, and drops into the khor againat a water hole (generally dry) under Jebel Liseiwi (marked by apillar).
W. Abaraga232½688Keeps up khor and, crossing a low saddle,descends into Wadi Abaraga.
¼32¾¾88¾Keeps up wadi, whichis well wooded with selem, sayal and the single-stemmed fan palm(Medemia argun), and passes some wells close under leftbank. The wadi flows through very broken low hills, 200 to 400 feethigh.
½33¼1½90¼
1¼34½3½93¾Track issues on to open space where thehills recede and wadis come in from all directions.
——497¾Track now turns N.E.,passing between some low hills over gravelly plain, and turns S.E.up wadi, now confined between rounded reddish hills. The palms havenow ceased, but selem is still found. The hills soon get lower andwadi less confined.
——4¼102
——4½106½A track from Hesmet Omar.
——2¼108¾Saddle at head ofWadi Abaraga is reached, easy ascent and descent commenced overgently sloping gravel to the Wadi Abu Bard which flows through anopen valley 2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of wood in wadi.
Wadi Abu Bard7¾42¼2¼111
——2113The same direction iscontinued across the wadi till a low saddle is crossed, and trackdescends a branch of Abu Bard for a little more than a mile; thenacross an open space N.E. up an affluent of the same branch till itcrosses a low saddle at its head and descends into an affluent ofthe Wadi Hesmet Omar. This part is very stony and severe on plainscamels, though the gradients are not heavy. The track keeps downthe valley, crossing a couple of affluents bounded by low hills,till it reaches another low, but stony saddle, whence it descendsinto and crosses an affluent of the Wadi Abu Tabag or Wadi Ga;after another 2 miles of stony ground the track descends intoanother branch of the Abu Tabag wadi, which it follows till itreaches the well.
——3½116½
——5121½
——2123½
Abu Tabag5½47¾2125½
The valley opens out a bit here, thoughimmediately over the well there are low hills which still carry thebreastworks erected by Beshir Bey’s men as a protection againstdervishes.
The well is about 20 feet deep, of whichthe lower 12 feet, is revetted with stone. Plenty of water. Manysmall partridges.
An Inspector’s rest house has been builthere. Some fine sayal trees.
There are a number of dom palms trying tocome up, but none have succeeded in showing any trunk yet.
The wadi here is, I believe, called theWadi Ga, but I am not sure.
Wadi Ga——2127½The track continuesdown the wadi for 2 miles and turns off to the left over flat andundulating ground; easy going for some miles, the general directionbeing a little to the left of J. Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga(plenty of selem) and cuts over a low saddle at the north end ofKirmai.
4¼5210137½
Wadi Abu Kitabab——2139½After about 2 more miles, heavy going,over sand-covered ridges the track descends into the Wadi AbuKitabab, which joins the Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below where thetrack crosses it. There are plenty of trees of several differentsorts.
2543142½Road continues up wadi for 3 miles to apoint where it forks.
——4146½The southern branchis also called Abu Kitabab. The track to Sohanit and Onib, viâMashushenai well (very little water), ascends it. Theother branch is called Ebeirid. After ascending it for 4 miles, lowsaddle is crossed; after 4½ more miles of mostly very stony ground,ending in a short and very rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala isreached. This wadi is here well wooded. Lots of marakh. The trackascends it a short distance and then turns up a side khor, out ofit to left into another and over an easy saddle down into WadiBitna or Butna; confined bed, high hills on right bank.
Wadi Abdelala3½57½4½151
1½594½155½Top of Mashushenai just visible, a fewselem and a good many samr trees.
Wells1½60½4159½Track keeps down wadi, cutting off one ortwo corners, stony, but not very bad going. The bed gets narrowerand low cliffs more perpendicular till wells are reached at a placewhere a projecting cliff appears to bar the passage. Just beforereaching it some tombs are passed.
There are two wells or water holes about5 feet in diameter, surface of water 6 feet below bed of wadi. Lotsof good water.
262½4½164The track continues, original direction,for about ½ mile and then turns E., and a mile further on meets theWadi Elei coming from the S.E. The united wadi now flows a littleE. of N., the hills diminish and the valley increases in width andthe vegetation decreases. After 2 miles the track turns off toright, up what was a good track a year or so ago, but is now barredby waves of sand. After some three miles, most part of which isvery heavy going, the track descends into the broad and ill definedbed of an affluent of the Wadi Elei. Little grazing.
3½6610174Over bare undulatingplain, dotted with hummocky ridges of decomposed granite more orless covered with sand. Good going till a low and easy watershed iscrossed and track descends easily to Wadi Nasari, a broad wellwooded wadi that comes from Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Alagi afew miles N. of where the track strikes it. Track crosses wadi inthe direction of Jebel Eigat and, passing through some low hills,reaches the Wadi Alagi. Track quite easy.
Wadi Nasari1¼67¼3177
Wadi Alagi1½68¾4181
The Wadi Alagi here is at least ½ milewide, bounded by low hills on both banks, but rising higher behindon the right bank. It contains many refreshingly green trees ofseveral sorts, marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, arak, &c.
Wadi Taimurit270¾6187Up wadi, which narrows to about 300 to400 yards. It is joined on the left bank by a khor called Taimurit,up which there is a waterhole, good water. On the right bankopposite it is a hill conspicuously higher than the majority ofthose that overhang the wadi.
On both banks are remains of houses, anda quartz reef is conspicuous on the left bank. The latitude ofjunction of Taimurit and Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so most, if not all,the reef is north of 22°. It shows marks of having beenprospected.
Wadi Neshd171¾3190One hour further on, where the wadichanges the direction of its flow from S.W. to N.W., some tombsclose under the right bank are a landmark for the Wadi Neshd, whichcomes in on the left bank opposite. There is good water in the WadiNeshd.
Wadi Kamotit273¾6196The wadi now begins to wind more. Twohours further on the Wadi Kamotit on right bank is passed. There isgood water a short way up it.
Deraheib4¼7812208The wadi now begins to wriggle aboutwithout, however, much decreasing in width. The hills on eitherside continue to be of no great height, and in one or two placesthe track crosses low saddles to cut off corners; good trees allthe way.
Water————At Deraheib is a ruined castle of stoneset in mud, with two or three pointed arches set in lime. Anotherbuilding of nearly equal size in plan, but not so high, and theruins of a number of houses and shelters are on the left bank. Onthe right bank, nearly opposite, are a number of ruined stonehouses arranged in streets, and covering 3 to 4 acres. They arebuilt in stone and mud, but a few arches in lime are to be seen.The ruins are evidently greatly filled in and might possibly repayexcavation. There are small stone shelters of the same kind upvarious khors. The nearest water now is 2 or 3 miles offup a wadi that joins the left bank of the Alagi about 1½ milesfurther up.
The latitude of the N.W. corner of the ruinedcastle is 21° 56′ 48·5″.
On the low hills on left bank, within ½mile of the fort, are a number of shafts sunk in the reef which ishere very apparent. In December there were very few Arabs in theWadi Alagi. In the summer there are many.
The rate of the hamla has been taken at2½ to 3 miles per hour, as, I think, my camels went. Neither timesnor distances, therefore, can be relied on absolutely.

2.—SUAKIN to BERBER.

Roads.There are two main routes between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first, viâ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout (1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only water.

The second route, viâ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is good, the road is bad about Sinkat.

(α) NORTHERLY ROUTE.[2]

Major W. S. Sparkes, October, 1897, and December and January, 1897-98.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——Road runs in north-westerly directionalongside formation level of old Suakin-Berber railway. Good road,and easy going through scrub, with mimosa and acacia trees. Plaincovered with camels and flocks of goats grazing. Gentle rise allway to Handub.
Handub Well1010Water here practically unlimited,slightly brackish; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing for camels.Water about 20 feet down.
313Track enters hills, which gradually closein on either side, going still good and gentle rise.
Otao Well619Two wells here, giving good water, holesin ground, could be easily developed, at present sufficient for twocompanies infantry and their transport. Formation level of oldrailway ends here.
Tambuk Well524Good water, supply practically unlimited,now three wells, would be easily increased. Good camp ground, fueland grazing. Gazelle, hares, partridges, and doves along road,Handub and Tambuk. Water in wells about 15 feet down.
226To here going stony and rough, thenthrough a short defile, and somewhat better; trees and shrubs allalong.
Khor Ossaud531A sudden, short,sharp ascent, a ½-mile level, stony ground, without a shrub, anddown to Khor Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, &c.; excellentgoing.
Olip132
Khor Adit133Khor Adit, the main khor from Sinkat,which is about 20 miles distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some gazelles,many doves in this khor, also numerous herds, goats and camelsgrazing. Junction of khor, called Olip.
336Track bends suddenly to right, andcrosses a short and easy “agaba,” or pass. This is a short cut,main khor could be followed, and pass avoided, if necessary. Thiswould make good halting place for infantry. It is 15 miles fromTambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. No water, but probably could befound if sunk for.
Dissibil (well)743One large well, which is merely holescooped in ground, gives plentiful supply good water; similar waterholes could be dug without difficulty, and supply water practicallyunlimited; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing.
Dissibil khor full of trees and shrubs;many gazelle and rock grouse and doves.
447Track crosses small pass or agaba, thenceruns under high mountains on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. Chainof low stone hills on right, going fair all time.
Odrus754Track debouches onwide open plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, called Wadi Odrus; iscovered with coarse grass and stunted mimosa. Gradual rise up tohere, now gentle descent to centre of Wadi Odrus, where a narrowkhor known as Tekarti. In good rain season considerable quantity ofdura is grown along edge of this khor, but on Dissibil side and toeastwards only. Several well-grown trees along edge of khor. Thisis 15 miles from Dissibil, and would make suitable halting placefor infantry. No water, except after rains; good camp ground, fuel,and grazing. A gradual rise from here.
Tekarti660
3¼63¼On right of track, under low hill,several stone huts of Hamdab tribe.
265¼Wadi Odrus ends and track crossesoutlying stony ridges of Amud range.
267¼A sharp gradient andhighest point of whole route is reached 2,870 feet above sea level.A sharp descent by about ¾ mile of rocky agaba or pass, which,however, presents but little difficulty to passage of all arms,leads to Khor Hareitri, a rather narrow defile between high stonehills. Stony, baddish going, full of sunt or mimosa trees, andpatches of coarse grass. Three-quarters mile up khor is well, knownas Bir Tamai by some, by others as simply Hareitri, a stonerevetted well, giving good water about 12 feet down, rough woodhuts on other side of well.
Khor Hareitri (well) (Tamai)¾68
¾68¾
Adel Aweb[3]3¼72Rain pools found all along edges of khor,and 3 miles from Tamai a very large deep pool, giving any quantitygood water. Natives say pools all disappear in winter a few monthsafter rain ceases, but wells could be sunk with success anywhere inkhor. The big pool above called by natives Adel Aweb. Good grazingand fuel here, indifferent camp ground on account of stones. Rockgrouse and doves in khor, which is about 5 miles long.
173Hareitri defile ends, and wide open plaincalled Wadi Tisartem is reached. Here dura is cultivated.
1½74½A few huts on right, and some dura grownin good rain season, a good camp ground near here, fuel andgrazing, but no water, though not impossible, might be found.
478½Track crosses low rough ridges for ½mile.
Salalat (well)½79Khor Haab thick with fair-sized trees, asandy plain. Two and a-half miles off track, to left or south, isBir Salalat, two wells, partially revetted wood, water good, about40 feet down. Supply limited, each well could, perhaps, supply 600gallons, and would then require three hours to refill, more wellscould easily be sunk. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, and somefair-sized trees near wells. These wells cannot be relied on aspermanent. In 1903 they had been dry for 2 years.
3½82½A slight rise brings track to levelplateau of gravelly trap, smooth and firm, no vegetation, leadingdown to Khor Furd.
2½85A very large patch cultivation dependenton rainfall, nothing could be grown this year.
5½90½Across a neck, high irregular-shapedrocky hill few hundred yards to right, large black boulder to left.Quarter mile further is level, open, gravelly piece of ground,suitable for camp, with fuel and grazing, but no water. From herevegetation gradually ceases.
292½Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying ridgewith high mass of rock on left. From here hills close in and trackalong base of outlying spurs and ridges.
Khor Kokreb3½96Agaba or pass leadingto Khor Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight rise, then a steep androcky, but not difficult, piece, in all about ½ mile, and khor isentered; ½ mile on and well called Hayaba, a hole in ground, watera few feet down and good, only one hole at present, but otherscould be dug in very short time, giving a practically unlimitedsupply. Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, and on left of well goodcamp ground, water, fuel, and grazing.
Hayaba (well)197
Sarbit (well)1½98½Revetted stone well, good water about 10feet down, sufficient for battalion, good ground, fuel, andgrazing.
4102½Track, now well to right of khor, runsover a neck between small rocky hills for short way, then sand,then rocks, with graveyards on each side; ½ mile on and low rockychain hides main khor from track, hills gradually close in.
1½104Hills now come in from north at rightangles to track, and appear to entirely block up khor; under thesehills was situated the Dervish post of Osman Digna. A collection oftukuls, sufficient for about 200 men, and surrounded by a thickthorn zariba; clear, level space, some 700 yards to front andflanks, within 200 yards of hills at back; a well enough chosenposition as regards covering road from Suakin. A narrow and shortdefile on extreme left affords an exit, and khor again widenssomewhat.
El Matar (well)1½105½A hole scooped in ground, good water afew feet down, enough for half battalion at present, but could bequickly increased by digging other holes. Camp ground, grazing, andfuel here. Track now bends to left and crosses neck between two oldgraveyards.
Abd El Haabit (well)1½107Two wells here, about ½ mile apart, oneon track, other ½ mile to left. The one on track a hole in khor,good water, limited supply, enough for about 100 camels, beforerefilling in two hours. Other revetted stone, now dry, but couldeasily be reopened.
All these four last wells in Khor Kokreb,which is wide, full of trees and shrubs, with stony hills here andthere, many gazelle, doves and rock grouse. Track follows khor inall about 10 miles, when it branches to right.
Track now enters wide open plain of blackstone, but good going, bare but for few stunted mimosa, and coarsepatches of grass.
5112Stone ceases, and firm sand takes itsplace.
2½114½Track bends to right among patches ofhuge boulders.
Directly after entering Agortitweb Plain,a black hill, surmounted by what appears to be two tower-likemasses of rock, makes an excellent landmark, as tracks leadsstraight on to it.
Lagag Aweb[4] (called by natives half wayto Berber)1½116Above-mentioned landmark is passed, itlies to left of road, and on close inspection becomes a smooth,oval base of rock, with irregular mass at approach end, while otherblock dissolves into two huge boulders, one with a considerablelean to east. Pass between this, which is called Lagag Aweb, onleft, and a smaller rocky hill on right, is considered by nativesas half way to Berber.
Wadi Yungul or K. Yomga2½118½Track now winds for 2 miles round base of lowstony hills, crosses a neck, then on left a strip of coarse grassand stunted mimosa, bearing away to left, while hills on left alsospread away. For some way further, track winds along base of hillson right, when they also spread away, and the stony plain calledWadi Yungul is reached, going good. Good camp grounds, butindifferent grazing, and no water or fuel in Wadi Yungul. YungulPlain ceases, track winds to right between low stony hills. Alittle over 1 mile and narrow khor, with few trees and coarsegrass, is crossed, then again winds through low hills. Twoconnected hillocks of white marble being a prominent featureimmediately to left of track.
6½125
3128The Ariab valley is entered, it is thickwith scrub and fair-sized trees, with numerous herds, goats,&c. The hills stretch away on either side. Natives report thereis a well called Makardi off track to left under the hills, butthat it gives but little water.
Ariab[5] (well)3131Three miles up valley are Ariab wells.One large stone-revetted in centre of khor, giving practicallyunlimited supply, excellent water. Water about 20 feet down. 150yards from this well are two others, also revetted, stone one givesplentiful supply, other partially choked for want of use. Good campground, grazing, water and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, and rockgrouse in valley. Track now leaves Khor Ariab on right, and goessouth-west through black stone hills, low on right, high on left,somewhat bad going.
Level plain, covered tufts coarse grass,half stony, half sandy, good going.
Through low hills, rather bad going.
Wadi Barud——Wide level plain, covered coarse grass,good going.
Wadi O’Duruk——Level plain, good going, some coarsescrub, stunted trees.
Track leaves O’Duruk on right and passesto left of, and immediately below, a high stone hill, across asmall khor, and then winds among low stone hills.
Wadi Temartua——Good going, partly firm sand, partlystony.
Khor Laiameb44175A broad khor running about east and west,almost at right angles to track. Said to contain pools after rain,about 4 miles to west of track. Small mimosa trees and coarsegrass; water might be found if sunk for. Track after crossing KhorLaiameb again goes over hilly stony ground.
Jebel O’Fik2½177½On right of track country open and levelagain, a few trees and some grass here.
Wadi Tatua——After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi Tatuais entered; sandhills, &c., in khor; Obak can be seen indistance; good going.
5½183Across a low ridge, going stillgood.
Plain becomes covered with small mimosabushes; 1½ miles through these bushes and Obak sandhills and driftsare entered.
Obak (well)9192Large new well, gives 2,000 gallons whenfull; takes 10 hours to refill. Water slightly brackish. Nativessay that there were formerly 50 or 60 of these wells, but havefallen in from want of use. Wells, revetted wood; water about 40feet down. Indifferent camp ground, some grazing and fuel.
For 3 miles after Obak track lies throughheavy sand over hills and drifts, then good level going, onlyoccasional sand.
14206Some trees and grass here; suitable campground; water might possibly be found. Site of proposed well.
Jebel Eremit2208A low granite hill on left of track.
Abu Odfa5213Curious-shaped mass of rock on right oftrack.
Wadi Abu Selim21234Some trees and grass; water couldprobably be found. Site of proposed well.
Maho Bey (well)11245Good revetted well, 40 feet down, coveredby mud brick fort; excellent water, practically unlimited supply,good camping ground, fuel and grazing.
Berber6251Except for first 3 miles all going fromObak to Berber excellent.

SUMMARY of WELLS on NORTHERLY ROUTE.

Name of well. Distance apart. Description.
Miles.
Handub 10[6] Slightly brackish, unlimited supply.
Otao 9 One well, hole in khor; good water could be developed.
Tambuk 5 Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited supply.
Dissibil 19 One well, good water hole in khor, at present (1898) sufficient half battalion and transport; could be increased at will.
Tamai 25 In Khor Hareitri; well also by some called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about 12 feet deep, good water; well itself sufficient for half battalion and transport, but supply easily increased. Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 miles from Tamai.
Salalat 11 One and a-half miles to left of road, two wells, revetted stone, one practically choked. Good water about 40 feet down, limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and takes 2 hours to refill.
Hayaba 18 Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good water, supply practically unlimited, as similar holes can be dug in very short time.
Sarbit 1½ In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet down, revetted stone.
Matar 7 Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, supply half battalion, but could be developed. Former watering place of Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.
Id El Haabit 1½ Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half battalion, could be developed.
Ariab 24 One very large well, revetted stone, good water about 20 feet down; two smaller, also revetted stone, one now choked. Water sufficient at present for one battalion and transport, and could be developed.
Obak 61 One large stone revetted well, giving excellent supply of good water.
Maho Bey 52 Large stone revetted well, good water, large supply.

(β)—BERBER to SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE).

The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to be but little difference between the northerly and southerly routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.

Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.

A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide, would be required at each well.

For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms. On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.

(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, viâ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB, and SINKAT.

By Major W. S. Sparkes, November, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Berber——
Maho Bey66Vide report on north road.
Khor Abu Selim1117 „ „
Abu Odfa2138 „ „
Eramit543 „ „
Obak Wells1659 „ „
Ofik1473 „ „
4½77½Track to Rauai branches away to right.Also a track to Rauai a few miles after leaving Obak.
1½79Through low stony hills and Khor Laiamebis struck; track runs straight along khor. Going good; a gradualrise; Khor Wusser runs side by side with Laiameb, and appears toform part of it.
1796Track leaves Khor Laiameb and crosses lowneck of rock; low black stone hills on right hand; scatteredboulders, some of similar shape to Abu Odfa on left hand. Hillsgradually close in, and track crosses stony but not difficultagaba, or pass, some ¾ mile long.
¾96¾A path to left leads over hills toAriab.
1¾98½Over stony khor, then into hills again,and is stony, steep, bad going.
Rauai Wells2100½Stony sort of square,surrounded By stone hills, with a narrow khor running out eachcorner. Large graveyard on right. A few mimosa trees and somecoarse grass. Indifferent camping ground. Wells ½ mile up a narrow,rocky defile, running from east corner of square; two wells,revetted stone, good water 15 feet down; practically unlimitedsupply. This defile impassable for animals, which must go by easierway over hills to south-west, and then down side of hill again tothe wells. Some rough drawings of camels, men, &c., scratchedon rocks round wells. Rock grouse and partridges here. Track nowruns north-west over short agaba, across a stony khor, and again anagaba winding over bare, stony hills; bad going; then a long,narrow, sandy khor; fair-going; then a rough, stony agaba leadingover hills called Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; thence into KhorThela, a short agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small khor same name, athead of Ariab valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles west of north fromhere; one well good water 30 feet down, enough for one battalion,which would require 1½ hours to refill; good grazing ground andfuel. Some gazelle and grouse; north road about 3 miles from well.Going from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a succession of stonyagabas. Prom here cross stony neck, then across head of Ariabvalley. Pass Jebel Bokmaali on left hand, cross a stony neck,and
Makadia Wells14½115
Yungul4119Reach Wadi Yungul; north road about 8miles to left; 4 miles, then cross another stony neck, and WadiBeakwa, called by Arabs halfway to Suakin.
Khor Atbai7½126½Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross olddura patch, none this year on account of bad rains. Over two sandyand stony ridges and
Wadi Kokreb3½130Enter Kokreb valley; good going, firmsand, and thick with trees and shrubs. Over some stony ridgesand
Khor Olowe2½132½Enter Khor Olowe, still a part ofKokreb.
Magwala Wells3½136Two wells, good water, 75 feet down,sufficient for one battalion; would require some hours to refill;these wells are said by Arabs to be oldest on road; they arerevetted granite, which is deeply grooved all round from constanthauling up of water. Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, who havehuts close here. Many hods, or earth-made drinking pans, round eachwell. Some old Dervish “tukuls,” which used to be occupied by adetachment, for collecting taxes. Good camp ground, fuel andgrazing, pigeons and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells of Abd ElHaabit lie some 7 or 8 miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, about 8miles to north-east; Jebel Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on northroad, is seen some 6 miles to north of west from here.
Khor now gradually gets bare andintersected by strips of stone.
4140Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, goingindifferent, cut up by small watercourses over a ridge.
Wadi Habub3143Wadi Habub. Going still indifferent,across many ridges running into khor, 5½ miles on; track runs alongedge of hills, and then enters the Komotitai hills by very stonyand difficult agaba or pass, about 1½ miles long, then into sandykhor, full of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up this khor to the
Kamotitai Wells11154Wells of same name, i.e.,Kamotitai, three wells, revetted stone, good water 25 feet downunlimited supply. Many other wells in this khor now closed up; muchused by Arabs, and at each well numerous hods. Good camp ground,fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and pigeons in abundance.
A short way past wells, track bends to leftpast large graveyard; then across alternate khors and ridges;indifferent going.
Khor Arab7161Thick with trees of all sorts, andconsiderable cultivation in good season. Two deep watercoursescrossed soon after entering khor; 3 miles on the track runs tonorth of khor, over stony ridges, with low stone hills on eitherhand.
Jebel Okwer7168Jebel Okwer begins on left of khor,several small pyramid-shaped hills on right, and khor stretchingaway beyond them.
Khor Amate Wells3½171½Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate begins;track running across large patch of old cultivation into a sandykhor; one well some 200 yards to right, another ½ mile straight on.There is a third well, now closed. These wells, revetted wood, goodwater 12 feet down; supply practically unlimited; many hods. Goodcamp ground, fuel and grazing. A stone hut close to well, and placethick with sheep and goats, and some cattle.
Track from here runs north-west, oversmall agaba into narrow khor thick with trees. Okwer range still onleft; low hills on right 3½ miles, and hills on right hand, andtrack again enters main Khor Amate. Batta range on far right and infront; ½ mile on Okwer range ends.
4½176Track to wells of Abu Golodaruns north from here.
3½179½End of Khor Amate, and Batta rangeentered by fairly easy agaba, running east 1½ miles; then crosssmall stony khor, then another agaba through smaller hills, goingbad.
Hormareb Well3½183Jebel Homugwer away in distance to right,¾ mile off track to north in small khor same name, Bir Hormareb;one well, good water 25 feet down; supply about 1,000 gallons;requires some hours to refill. Several hods round well; goodgrazing and fuel, indifferent ground. Another wellreported, same description, 3 or 4 miles further up khor to north.From here bad going, over stony ridges and small khors.
Wadi Ma’areit3½186½Large graveyard on right, and track turnssharp to left up Wadi Ma’areit, a broad level valley, running northand south; good going, and considerable cultivation after goodrains. This year a few patches dura. North-west corner of valleythickly studded with trees, and was in old days a favourite summerresort of people from Suakin.
6½193Hills close right in on either side, andthe narrow wooded Khor Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; trackbends north-east, 1½ miles on, and cross a flat khor, with sparsevegetation, thick with flocks.
Now over alternate rough ridges and smallragged khors. 2½ miles down a sharp agaba into a small khor, greenand sweet smelling, then wind round base of hills miles, and enterKhor Tabikuk.
Khor Tabikuk7½200½Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a ridge,and view Sinkat valley, green and thick with people and flocks;down small agaba, over low ridge, and enter valley.
Sinkat Well4½205One large well, good water 25 feet down;unlimited supply. Several large gemmeiza trees round wells giveexcellent shade; ruins old Egyptian fort also close to wells. Largevillage in valley, with several thousand people, built partly strawhuts, partly Arab tents, small bazaar, and large stores ofgum.
Good ground, fuel and grazing. Khor Aditleads from north Sinkat valley towards Khor Ossaud.
Track from well runs east across valley,then over low ridge across two deep watercourses, and up a stony,gradually-narrowing khor, which winds through the hills.
Khor Gebet6½211½A short but bad agaba, a small khor, aridge, another small khor, another ridge and Khor Gebet; about 3miles up this khor to right are two wells.
3214½Commencement of the great Sinkat Agaba orPass, along which track runs for 3½ miles; very bad, difficultgoing, practically impassable for wheeled artillery, and would bealtogether impracticable but for the work done years ago by MumtazPasha, then Governor of Suakin. In this agaba the Khor Gwob rises,which, gradually widening, eventually reaches the sea some 7 milessouth of Suakin.
Khor Gwob3½218End of agaba, and good going over firmsand; gradual descent down khor, which gradually widens. Hills oneither side, thick with tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge boulderson each side also protruding from bed of khor. Pools of water, withthick reeds here and there, in which were many teal; also manypartridges, rock grouse, and pigeons in khor.
Tamanib6224Unlimited supply, good running water;fair camp ground; excellent grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattlegrazing here.
Road now leaves Khor Gwob and turns toright; runs over low ridges, with small khors between; full ofgazelle, ariel and hares.
10234Hills cease, and a straight down-hill runinto Suakin, over plain covered with coarse vegetation.
Suakin10244Suakin.

3.—BERBER to KASSALA.

Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum, from Various Sketches and Reports, June, 1902.

This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable objects along it by which he could identify his position.

As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten or cut through the bush leading to these meshras.

Guides.The ordinary Arab guide, even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for years, knows only a small number of these meshras, i.e., those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river, are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him men who speak Hadendoa.

Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of men who know the names of any except the chief meshras. Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names are of little value, as no one else knows them.

Rest houses.There are rest houses at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala.

Grazing.There is good grazing for camels practically the whole way.

Travellers.Persons travelling by themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset, carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.

Supplies.No supplies of any sort are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep.

Game.There is good fishing in the Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north of Goz Regeb.

Inhabitants.Some Bisharin are met, and a good many nomad Hadendoas.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Berber——From Berber the road runs between theriver and the railway.
Darmali1313A mud built villageon the Nile; the usual road now branches southwards, crosses therailway and than a bare, gravelly, waterless plain to Khor El Hudi.(If preferred, the Atbara can be followed by continuing along theNile to Atbara Station, which is about 7 miles from Darmali.)
Khor El Hudi1730
Khor Abadar or Abu Adar838From El Hudi, where the remains of theAnglo-Egyptian zeriba are still visible, the road skirts the riverwhich is fringed with dom palms and other bush to Khor Abadar, nearthe junction of which there is a small stone wall enclosure and theremains of another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba.
Khor El Hilg (Rest House)1957From here the road cuts off an angle fromthe river and lies across open gravelly desert till Khor El Hilg isreached.
(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s zeribaand the battle of the Atbara, is passed at the 12th mile, about 5miles to the west.) There is dense bush about here, and the groundis likely to be swampy in the rains.
Sheikh El Sebib’s House (RestHouse).3½60½The house stands onslightly rising ground. After passing this the country continues tobe broken by small khors until after passing Gemmeiza, a goodhalting place, but much bush hereabouts.
Gemmeiza (Rest House)1272½
The country soon becomes open and level,and is covered with scattered selem and sunt bushes. The river isgenerally nowhere more than a mile and half to the west.
El Hagar14½87Here there are rocks in the riverbed.
Khor El Fil188The going continuesexcellent until reaching Khor Adarama which is about 1½ miles inwidth and is marked by very thick scrub of sunt, talh, and tundub,as well as by the badly cracked cotton soil indicative of standingwater.
Khor Adarama896
Adarama (Rest House)1½97½Adarama consists of a large number of mudwalled enclosures, scattered over about ¾ of a square mile ofground. These are almost entirely deserted and mostly ruined. Withthe exception of the inspector’s house, camel corps lines, and afew tukls, there are practically no inhabited houses. In the dryweather there are two water pools in the vicinity, one at the footof Khor Adarama, and another about ¾ mile higher up. The approachto the river is easy, but the bank shelves steeply to the river bedfrom a height of about 25 feet.
El Hejera1½99A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s ispassed.
Um Bashim2101The name of this district. After passingthrough two patches of bush about a mile apart, the country becomesopen and sandy, and sand ridges appear to the east.
El Siwan8109Here the river may be approached, andfurther on the track passes within a few yards of the riverbank.
Shellalab (Rest House nearhere).10½119½Shellalab, a sandyhill covered with marakh bushes. From here the track continues tothe river bank, through scattered marakh bush, and sand hills lieaway to the east. The river can be approached almost anywhere, andthe path is never more than about ½ a mile from it. Jebel Ayob isvisible about 7 miles due east.
Gala Amarus——
Meshra Baluk or Um Beiba (RestHouse).21½141
From here the path traverses scatteredbush, and in places badly cracked cotton soil, indicating theexistence of water in the rains, and gradually ascends an easyslope on to the plateau, and thus cuts off a bend in theriver.
Debba Gulal13154Debba Gulal.
Meshra7161The descent from the plateau begins 3miles further on, and the river is struck at a good meshra.
Meshra Mitateb (RestHouse).3164The path continuing near the river,Mitateb, the first meshra in the Hadendoa country, is reached. TheBisharin country on right bank ends here, as also the BerberProvince; the Province of Kassala is now entered. Rest househere.
From here the path gradually ascends agentle slope to the plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik and Erembatsoon become visible. Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr trees arenoticeable, of these samr predominate as Goz Regeb isapproached.
Goz Regeb (Rest House)15179Two miles beforereaching old telegraph hut the road descends from the plateau, andthe river is reached at this hut, which forms a good halting place.The village of Goz Regeb is situated on a slight eminence close tothe river on the left bank, and is marked by a few dom palms. SomeGovernment buildings are now in course of construction on the rightbank, the idea being that Goz Regeb should form a sanatorium forKassala during the rains. The direct track to Kassala and that ingeneral use leaves J. Erembat to the north, and strikes straightacross the levelplain. At about 38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in the bed of abranch of the Gash, about 3 miles off the direct road. It has beenlately opened up, and has a good supply of water, and Arabs wereliving here (March, 1902). There is little shade to be had on thisroad until after passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet and other greentrees and bushes become numerous. On nearing the Gash, signs ofcultivation appear.
Bir Teishum (Rest House)38217
Khor Ebret20237
Khor Gash5242
Tukruf1¾243¾Many wells in bed of Gash; unlimitedsupply of water.
Kassala2¾246½Destination.
Another Route may be taken from GOZ REGEB viâASUBRI to KASSALA.
Goz Regeb179179The track ascends to the plateau andfollows the edge of it, leaving the river several miles to thewest. There are several meshras, all of which, however, are almostimpossible to find without a guide.
Meshra Um Bereika30209This meshra is somewhere abouthalf-way.
Asubri35244Good meshra and shade.
Goz El Handal8½252½About 5 miles after leaving the river forKassala, the road from Suweihil joins in, and rather thick laot andkittr bush is traversed till reaching Goz El Handal, an opengravelly plain with short grass extending for about 2 miles Fromhere to Umsiteiba there is little bush.
Umsiteiba13265½A place where water stands in the rains;not much shade.
Khor Garatet3268½Rather swampy and difficult for camels inthe rains.
Khor Um Dahan6274½Water stands in this khor in the rains.It is about 6 yards wide and 3 feet deep.
Khor Kunti6280½There are Arab settlements near here inthe rains for cultivation. After passing through some rather thicklaot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, about 8 yards wide and 6 feetdeep, is crossed.
Khor Gash4¼284¾Many marakh and kurmet bushes until theGash is reached.
Kassala¾285½

4.—SUAKIN to TOKAR.

By Lieutenant A. M. Taggart, 1st Bombay Lancers, July, 1896; Captain McKerrell, Cameron Highlanders, December, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——For the first 25 miles the track is welldefined, and leads over hard ground never more than a mile or twofrom the sea shore. During the next 6 miles it changes incharacter, and for the last 25 miles leads through bushes and oversandhills, the tracks varying according to the season and thedifficulties (drifting sand, &c.) to be encountered. There isno water to be had on the way. A telegraph line leads direct fromSuakin to Tokar, but does not always follow the best road.
Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. direction, thetrack is broad and distinct, passing over hard, sandy ground, witha few bushes 1 to 3 feet high.
Khor Gwob7½7½Crosses broad Khor Gwob.
310½Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, approachessea shore, then bears away again. Near this point (4 hours fromSuakin) there are reported to have been some wells in 1885; water 6feet down and brackish, hardly ever used.
212Saw some trees due east, halfway to thesea; said to be wells of Helub. Water bitter, and butlittle used.
315Track meets telegraph line.
2½17½Over rising ground. Extensive view in alldirections to the westward, well-defined khor trending north-west.Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet high, ground hard and sandy, overlying coral.Track descends again; then level ground.
Khor Asab7½25Reached Khor Asab, which runs in from thehills to the west; it is called half-way to Tokar. Here a trackbranches off to the left, and leads to Teb.
631Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes narrowand indistinct. Bush thicker, 4 to 8 feet high.
Surface shifting sand, with claypatches.
839Crosses several small khors, sometimestraces of water here. Bush very thick.
Khor Tamai241Small pool of rainwater (at certainseasons only).
Mamuria445Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud house.Telegraph line crossed three times since the 31st mile. Bushbecomes thicker.
Old Tokar550Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground andthick bush.
Abdulla Rai252Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed tower,with pointed roof), on an eminence, visible from some distance.Nine wells here, water good—never known to fail, 54 feet down(July). Large herds of camels and goats in the district. Thick bushall round.
Track now due south-east to Tokar,surface hard and clayey, covered in places with drifted sand; bush3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal tower visible.
355Leave the bush, across level mud plainto
Tokar156Tokar, vide [Part I, Chap. III.]

5.—TRINKITAT to TOKAR, viâ TEB.

By Captain Bower, I.S.C., and Editor, July, 1896.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Trinkitat——The whole road from Trinkitat to Tokar ispassable for all arms, and it is only when approaching Tokar thatthe scrub about the country becomes thick enough to interfere withthe action of cavalry.
For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the road runsalong a broad embankment, on which for 1 mile an 18-inch gaugerailway has been laid down. After leaving the embankment there is asandy stretch, and then about 2 miles of narrow embankment justbroad enough for the railway line. This embankment in places hasrather a serpentine course, and would have to be straightenedbefore rails could be laid down.
El Teb77At El Teb there is a small fort, and anample supply of water at a depth of 17 feet.
Three wells inside fort and numerous onesoutside, these latter mostly for animals.
The water in the different wells variesin quality, but is all slightly brackish. No ill effects, however,appear to attend drinking it, and the men quartered there spokefavourably of it.
The parapet of the fort is a brick wall10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep.Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet high. Scene of battle of El Teb,29th February, 1884, just north of present fort.
There are two roads from Teb to Tokar,both broad (30-50 yards) clearings through the bush. The “new” roadis the straightest, but leads over soft sandhills and is rarelyused. The other road bears gradually westwards a mile south of Teb,and cannot be missed if the traveller keeps on the west edge of theclearing. Excellent going for all arms. Bush on either side 3 to 10feet high.
Abdulla Rai815Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla RaiFort, ½ mile west of track.
Tokar2½17½Tokar.

6.—(α) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ TAMANEB and KHOR ARAB.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate thetrack leads S.W. up the plain reaching the granite outcrops of thefoot hills. Over broken, but easy ground to Tamaneb, where there isrunning water.
Tamaneb818The track passes W.of Tamaneb and ascends the flat valley bottom of Khor Gwob to 22miles, where the junction with the Khor Nagit is reached. Leavingthe route to Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the track turns S.W. upKhor Nagit till 27 miles, and then crosses a short rocky agaba intoKhor Manab. Descending this easy valley, at 29½ miles the junctionwith Khor Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge the track ascends thehillside about 150 feet by a different rock path descending intothe valley at 30½ miles. Up the valley, easy going, for about amile pass running water (brackish and unpleasant), thenascend by steep zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 at worst), after ½mile along the steep hillside cross the valley and rise by a steeppath to the saddle separating Khor Arab from the Khor Dahand.Descend into the latter by a rocky path and, after ascending withdifficulty the rocky torrent bed for another ½ mile, reach the footof the Agatba agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of ¾ mile brings oneto the summit, after which the route crosses easy rises and dips toErkowit at mile 39.
Erkowit2139
Good hill camels lightly laden took 11marching hours from Erkowit to Suakin by this route, and would takeabout 14 hours to ascend. The track is not fit for horses or fullyladen mules.

(β) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ KOLKALAI PASS.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Suakin——Track leaves SuakinS.S.W. over the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor Gwob, a wide openwadi with low banks and thick bush. This Khor is occasionallyimpassable when in flood. About mile 16 the road reaches thegranite outcrops of the foothills, and descends into a wadi atTaharoi (mile 17), where there are usually several wells muchresorted to for watering flocks. This year only one well and thatalmost dry. Depth to water usually 10 feet.
Taharoi1717
Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, leavingJ. Gumberit to E. At mile 20 usually a well, but dry this year.Then S.W. into the Khor Dahand at 25 miles; track enters the hillsand goes for 3 miles up the easy valley. At mile 28 there iswater in the hill to S. and several Hadendoa tukls.
Track then takes to hillside, rising byzigzags up the end of a spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 to theridge, then very steeply 1 in 3 to another col, by short zigzagsand rocky steps; very bad for pack animals, but good hill camelsget up with light loads. Track descends along hillside for about 1mile; all green, with shrubs, grass and ferns. Francolin, partridgeand quail plentiful. Some bad places in descent, then easy path,and again short difficult rise to the edge of the Erkowitplateau.
Total ascent from Khor Dahand a littleover 2,000 feet.
Camels took 3 hours. The track is not fitto ride over.
Erkowit1734After about ¾ mile Erkowit isreached.
Leaving this route at mile 20 a trackleads up Khor Masilli, S. of Dahand; the bad ascent on this isshorter, but equally bad, and the whole distance is longer.

7.—(α) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ BARAMIL PLAINS.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Erkowit——South over easyground to head of Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of the khor W.N.W.Leaving the khor the track rises for ¼ mile over a stony slope,reaching the Baramil Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For 14 milesthe track runs W.N.W. over the firm surface of the plains. Largeherds of ariel are seen, a few flocks and nomad Arabs, but nowater. Down stony and occasionally narrow khor N.W. to Towai Wells,which are at side of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair andplentiful.
Towai Wells18¾18¾
Sinkat2¾21½Down Khor Towai over a low stony rise anddescend W.N.W.; wide khor until it joins the open Sinkat Valley andreaches the well and ruins of the old Fort at 21½ miles.

(β) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ KHOR GEBET.

By Major Powell, R.E., March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Erkowit——Route descends the valley W.S.W. fromErkowit by rocky surface track over ridges and dips, rising after2½ miles by a stony ascent to the edge of Baramil plateau. Thislength is the worst part of the route, it is practicable, but notgood for loaded camels, and is easily capable of improvement byunskilled labour.
Gebet Well14¼14¼Along Baramilplateau, W. for about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over gentle ascent, andcross an easy but stony agaba, and descent N. down a khor leadingto the open valley of Gebet. No obstacle. Gentle descent N.W. tothe well at 14¼ miles. Water good; large flocks and herds; one well30 feet deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. 3 miles, where route isjoined by the direct track from Suakin to Sinkat, viâ theSinkat agaba, then W. 1 mile to a short stony agaba leading intothe Khor Abu Shid, the main valley of which is reached at mile 20.Thence easy going over a wide wadi to Sinkat at mile 23.
Sinkat8¾23

8.—KASSALA to SUAKIN, viâ FILIK, MAMAN, and KHOR SITARAB.

By Lieut.-Col. Mitford, April, 1899.

(Corrected up to 1900.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kassala——On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. directionis taken over flat, sandy ground, intersected by small khorsrunning into the Khor El Gash; many low trees of the acacia tribeand the green-leafed kurmet bush, but passage among them easy inany direction.
Khor Debeloeid5½5½A shallow khor, flowing from S.S.W. toN.N.E. two miles on; this khor is recrossed, flowing westward; herethe trees are thicker and taller.
Khor Gamam3½9A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 feetdeep, 15 to 20 yards wide; proceeding down the khor for ½ mile thewells are reached. Banks thickly fringed with high tamarisks; bushvery close.
Bir Gamam½9½Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 feetdiameter; water plentiful. Many wells exist now in this khor forabout 2 miles N. from this point. After winding about in the bushfor a mile, country again becomes open; many open spaceshalf-a-mile to a mile in breadth. Direction N. A good deal ofcultivation here.
Gamam5½15Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; itssite now marked by a stony mound to the E. known as Habuba. A mileon one passes many skulls and human bones scattered all over theground for some distance. This spot was the scene of the firstencounter of the Kassala garrison and the Dervishes in the winterof 1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a large standing camp ofHadendoa at the same place. Arabs say “20,000 young men” werecollected there and guarded by Baggara horsemen, who, when foodfailed, refused to let them leave; so many hundreds died ofstarvation.
Hageror924The name of the district. At this point,1 mile W. of our route, is the site of the old telegraphmaintenance post of the old Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, close toa branch of the Khor El Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say water can befound 10 to 15 feet below the surface anywhere in this khor;fringed with high trees. Direction now is E.N.E.; country asbefore, but cotton soil.
Khor Bahr Shamil3½27½A shallow depression, 200 to 300 yardsbroad, no defined banks, thickly grown over by laot trees.
Khor Delai330½Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, flowingW. High trees along banks. At the 33rd mile the trees disappear;country is cotton soil with tussocks of grass, full of holes andbreaks away at every step. Very bad going for men and animals. Asthe Khor Herbub is approached, grass, 3 feet high, becomesthicker.
Khor Herbub10¾41¼A branch of the Gash, 20 feet broad, 20feet deep. Proceed due W. for 1¼ miles through high trees.
Bir Tokar1¼42½One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feetdiameter, 1 foot of water at bottom of well. After drawing 400gallons supply was exhausted and water came in very slowly. Watergood. Good grazing for horses and camels, and plenty of shade.Retracing one’s steps back across the Khor Herbub, a direction 72°(true) was taken and followed as far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soiland tussocks of grass as before.
Filik2½45Formerly the largest and most importantcollection of hamlets of the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no traces,with the exception of three charred dom palm trees, which supportedthe roof of the old telegraph maintenance post. Many wells, andwater plentiful in Khor Tokar ½ mile W.
Going very bad; at the 49th mile belts oflaot trees are passed through. At the 53rd mile surface of groundimproves; more sandy, with patches of small stones or pebbles.
J. Tisheiga1156One mile to right. Ground now descendsgently; several small khors are crossed, running westward; trees inkhors and along banks, kittr and samr. Ground sandy, withoccasional patches of stones; excellent going.
Khor Yelkuk561Also called Telkuk. One hundred yardsbroad, flowing westwards. Ten miles up this khor are wells and anArab settlement. Many trees; good grazing for camels. Two miles tothe north are low black hills called J. Kadabu. Country asbefore.
Khor Taugon5½66½One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feethigh. One well here not yet reopened, in bed of khor; high treesand dom palms in bed and along banks. Two and half miles E. is J.Taugon. General direction 62°.
Khor Shamfeid2½69A small khor running into Khor Maman.Same direction being followed, J. Maman with its four peaksstraight ahead. Ground rises gently and then descends towards theKhor Maman; with stones in places.
Khor Maman675One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feethigh; many high trees and doms; excellent grazing for camels.Crossing the khor and following up its right bank for 1½ miles thewells are reached. Under J. Maman are seen many hundreds of stonehuts, which, according to the Arabs, were built many centuries ago;also many large stone graves.
Bir Maman1½76½Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet diameter,water good and plentiful at all seasons.
On leaving the wells, the track, veryfaint, over stony ground, made by the party constructing the newtelegraph line, was followed for the next 40 miles. The telegraphline itself is within sight of the track on one side or the other.Track proceeds up khor for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E. corner ofJ. Maman, and turns due N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab on theE. form a pass, 1½ to 2 miles broad; ground sandy, with patches ofstones; flat, good going; several small khors are crossed.
Khor Hashaneid682½One hundred yards broad, 3 feet banks.Dom palms and trees.
Khor Tudab284½
Khor Fagada286½
Khor Toteb187½Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks. Runsinto the Khor Kudameieb. Dom palms, kittr, samr, and the thornlesskurmet trees. One and a half miles E. is J. Yaied, some 1,500 feethigh, and 6 to 7 miles long, a mass of black basaltic rock, steeplyescarped on its western side.
For the next 12 miles, ground traversedis hard sand, sloping from hills on the E., and covered withstones; very bad going; in the small watercourses (during rains)are belts of samr and kittr trees.
Khor Gedamaieb4½92Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Trees; 2miles on, a similar khor is crossed, bearing the same name.
At 96½ miles the top of a watershed isreached, and J. Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J. Bakutneb is some 3or 4 miles to the N.
Khor Abuladein7½99½Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Groundnow sandy, and more trees.
Khor Serera4103½One hundred yards broad, 6 feet banks.Dom palms. Runs into the Khor Abu Ledein.
Khor Togul3¼106¾Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks. Followthe khor 1 mile down stream.
Bir Ali Kalai1107¾One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6 inchesdiameter; water good, but supply only 300 gallons at date, andrefilled very slowly. Khor Weidab joins Khor Togul from the S.lower down.
Returning up the khor 1 mile, a N.E.direction is taken. Ground very stony and undulating, andintersected by several large khors. Trees in watercourses and alongbanks of khor. The track runs more or less parallel with J. Kureib,4 or 5 miles distant to the E.; a range some 8 miles long, 2,300feet (approximate) above the general level, very precipitous onwestern side; black basaltic rocks.
Watershed9¼117Up to this point all khors crossed runinto the Khor El Gash; northwards of this watershed, khors run intothe Khor Langeb.
Khor Arideib4121The direction of the new telegraph lineis left 3 miles before reaching this khor. Direction N.N.W. Lowground sandy, with trees and grass; high ground stony androcky.
Khor Kei-Eiteb5126
Khor Gambeleib1½127½The downward course of this khor,trending W. and S.W., is now followed for 4½ miles; severalsubsidiary khors join it from either side. Water could probably befound anywhere here, as trees are finer and creepers are festoonedalong the trees; many kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub; goodgrazing for camels.
Bir Hamashaueb4132Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50 feetdeep, 3 feet diameter; water good and plentiful.
Returning up the khor for 2 miles towhere Khor Gambeleib joins Khor Homashaueb, the upward course ofthe latter khor is followed for 2 miles, and then a N.N.E.direction taken. Ground very stony and rising; intersected by smallkhors running from hills to the east.
Khor Omli12144No defined banks; its course marked bythe trees.
Khor Yaskalab4148Also called Khor Kubri. One well here 45feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water good, but supply uncertain; it isgenerally dry at this time of the year.
Khor Hedaweb5153Similar to KhorGambeleib. One and half miles down the khor is Bir Hedaweb. Onewell 9 feet deep, 3 feet 6 inches diameter; water good andplentiful; there is said to be a better well 1 to 2 miles furtherdown the khor.
Bir Hadaueb1154
On the south side of the khor, close tothe well, are the remains of the old telegraph line maintenancepost.
Returning up the khor ½ mile, a branchkhor coming in from the N. is followed up past a large graveyard.At the 156th mile this khor is left, and the neck between two rockyhills is crossed. Going very bad; rough and stony.
Khor Belag6½160½Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet banks.Excellent grazing for camels in this khor. For 7 miles its downwardcourse is followed. Arabs say that it flows into Khor Windi, but at167½ miles the khor appears dammed up with sand dunes 8 to 10 feethigh, and its level is the same as that of the surroundingcountry.
Khor Hegadab8¼168¾Flows towards the E. Ground ascends, anda mile on a stony pass between the hills is reached. J. Adarababnow comes in sight, noticeable from several chimney-like rockswhich stand up above the general level of the top of the range. Ashort descent, then a sandy plain with patches of stones inplaces.
Khor Windi4172¾This khor is entered, and its down-streamcourse followed for the next 8 miles. No water now obtainable inthis khor; trees are more stunted, and their leaves more yellow anddried up than in the preceding khors. At 177½ miles is the site ofthe old telegraph maintenance post and well, now filled in manyyears ago.
At 180 miles the khor is left, and aplain traversed, alternately sandy with tufts of grass and stony;several narrow deep khors are crossed. At 188¼ miles the level ofthe country suddenly drops some 20 feet.
Tamarisk bushes and trees commence.
Khor Langeb19¼192One hundred and fifty to three hundredyards broad, banks 15 to 20 feet high. Banks on either side thicklyfringed with tamarisk trees; excellent grazing for camels. Arabsare restarting breeding camels in the vicinity of this khor; onedrove of nearly 300 young camels were seen. One day S.W. up thiskhor, Khor Odeib is said to enter it; all the khors alreadyenumerated, from Khor Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run into KhorOdeib. Half a day to the E. Khor Windi joins it.
Bir Tamashnauer1½193½One and a quarter miles up this khor isthe well; 25 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water plentiful, but verysmelly and brackish. Arabs state that at present there are no wellsopen further up the khor; lower down are more wells and a fewpools.
Returning ¾ mile down the khor, adirection N. by E. is taken; several small tributary khors arecrossed, and then ground ascends gently and becomes stony.
The next 45 miles is known as the WadiOssir. J. Adarabab and Shaba on the E., and a series of ranges ofhills on the W. form the sides, 8 to 10 miles apart. These hillsform a funnel through which the wind blows steadily during thewinter months; sand storms very frequent.
J. Karamriba4½198Two black stony hills, 200 feet high; ½mile to W.
Eilogwa3201In the hills to the E., 3 to 4 miles fromthe track, are said to be rock cisterns with water; supplysaid to last from rains to rains.
Khor Ossir5206Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor Langeb.
El Fogani2½208½The same khor is recrossed, flowing S.E.Good grazing along and in this khor.
Direction N.N.E. Ground still risinggently; sandy, with tamarisks bushes and samr trees, very stunted,4 to 5 feet high. Some marakh and araag trees. Occasional belts ofstony ground.
Watershed16224½Top of the watershed is reached; ½ mileto W. is a low stony mound, 50 feet. Ground now falls from J. Shabarange towards the western hills.
Khor Shenkerat5229½Three to four miles to E.; in the hillsare said to be rock cisterns. The old telegraphmaintenance post is under the hills. Ground now becomes very stony,falling towards the W. and N.; in the shallow depression betweenthe flat spurs are Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on ground becomesmore sandy, and samr, marakh, and some laurel-like bushes arepassed through, becoming thicker as the khor is approached.
Khor Ossir El Tahtani9238½Fifty to one hundred yards broad, 5 feetbanks; flows N.E. The range of hills on the E. now terminates. Asandy plain is now crossed; scattered samr, etc.
J. Meiz5243½A low conical hill is passed close to thetrack to the E. 3 to 4 miles to the W. in the range of hills Arabspoint out J. Maiz, where water is said to beplentiful.
For 2 miles stony ground, then sandyagain; track passes through several groups of low detached hills.At 254½ miles ground becomes more cut up with khors, and graduallyascends and becomes very stony; the last mile into Khor Siterab isa stony defile; going very bad and in single file. A sharp ascentinto the khor.
Khor Sitarab16½260A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide; boundedby hills 40 to 60 feet high on either side. In the bed of the khorare great blocks of granite, through the interstices of whichpercolates water, which collects in the clay bed of the khor andforms small pools at close intervals all down the khor, averaging15 to 20 feet long, 2 to 4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep. Watervery brackish, osher bushes, a few tamarisks, shush grass and reedsgrow in the bed of the khor.
From the khor a well defined track runsall the way to Suakin. For 4 miles ground is very stony and broken;few sammur trees.
Khor Alifeyeit4264Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet banks,sandy bed. Ground now becomes sandy, and trees thicker; samr,araag, heglig, labakh and tundub trees. Gow grass during and afterrains; good sheep grazing ground.
Khors Sedayat, Ashat, Erim,and Shadat5269These four khors areall crossed in 1½ miles; no defined tracks; trees and bush in bedand alongside the khors. A few miles eastwards these khors open outinto the plain. For the next 3½ miles ground is stony.
1½270½
Khor Issi or Issei1½272Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks.
Khor Sarobai2274No defined tracks; sandy; trees andbush.
Khor Wintri4¼278¼A point of crossing; this khor hascommenced to divide up into branches.
Four miles on J. Gumberit is passed 1mile to the W. Country more open; eastward a clear view down to thesea.
Khor Gwob10¾289One hundred to twohundred broad, shallow, no defined banks. Ground descends gently,and on reaching the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the town of Suakin comesin sight. Trees become fewer and bushes lower.
Suakin8297

9.—TOKAR to KASSALA, viâ KHOR BARAKA.

(Various.)

Grazing.Plenty for camels, &c., all along the route.

Water.Anywhere for the digging, except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali Gebrat, 28 miles, and between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles.

Camping ground.Good anywhere along the route.

Wood.Plenty for fuel and for making rough shelters.

Going.On the whole excellent for camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not take more than 14 days to do the journey from Suakin.

Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days.

N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb (vide note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Tokar——Leaving Tokar, the track runs a littlewest of south across the plains, leaving the Khor Baraka channel tothe west.
1010Traversing a broken tract, covered witheminences strewn with sand, enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation onmuch larger scale; tall tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards broad;hard sand; excellent going; banks 10 to 12 feet high, and thicklywooded.
There are more routes than one; sometimesalong the channel, or on either bank, according to season orcircumstances. Broadly, the Beni Amer inhabit the eastern bank, andthe Hadendoa the western.
Temeren212(Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells here, twoin number, are situated in the bed of the Khor Baraka, depth about20 feet, and produce plenty of water of a brackish nature. Anotheraccount (1897) says two wells, close to fort; one well only used,good water 50 feet down. The khor here is about 80 paces wide, withlow banks, and is comparatively bare of trees. During the floods ofthe Baraka, these wells are flushed, the water being thick andimpregnated with alluvial mud. The country on the left bank is openand stony, and remains so until the line of the Jebel Shaba hillsis reached. To the right bank of the khor a certain amount ofcultivation exists, which increases in amount as the Tokar delta isreached. Heina range visible to south.
Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. ofTemeren; track to it clearly marked over stony plain by occasionalstone heaps. Contains grass, ravines, shrubs, and numerouspools of water (July); one large deep pool at foot of hillcontaining water all year round. Good look-out post in alldirections.
The route, after leaving Temeren, bearsfor a mile or so south-east to avoid the numerous sand dunes anddrifts lying close to the right bank of the khor, and then changessouthwards.
214A belt of considerable bush is now passedthrough, after which the country becomes open, rough, and sandy;the khor about ½ a-mile to the right-hand side.
Well115One well; good water.
The route continues in a generallysoutherly direction, passing through sand dunes, covered with aconsiderable growth of tamarisk bushes sufficiently high to conceala mounted man.
116Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on the westbank; route enters the Baraka.
Here large khor also runs in from theeast, main channel now from 30 to 40 yards wide, banks varying to30 feet high. Natives say the whole of this bit of country for amile west, and to Jebel Haina east, is under water in the rainyseason. Tamarisk bushes line each side, nothing can be seen fromthe channel.
Seven miles on, track leaves the khor,runs west on a sandy plain for a mile. Eleven miles on a black hill150 feet high runs from west bank half across the khor.
Lower Debetawateb723The hill of Hainaruns down to top of channel on east side; a narrow gorge is thusmade, through which the rush of water at flood is very great. Whenit is a very high flood, a channel is also formed round the westside of the hill. Just beyond this there are some old disused wellsin the channel that were known as Lower Debetawateb. After this,the khor opens out to about 800 yards wide, sand dunes and scrubeverywhere, track winds round almost due west, and reaches UpperDebetawateb, where there are two wells, plenty of good water, closeto surface. Track leaves channel here and runs ½ mile through thickjungle on to east bank, and then winds round south over sandyplain. Five miles on, guide pointed due west to
Upper Debetawateb3½26½
Odwan531½Odwan, lying in the khor, one well. Eightmiles on, hills of Shaba and Heina run down to banks of channel,track leads east of some low hills, and khor is seen winding west agood deal.
Tefadi536½Some large sand hillsin khor, guide said this was Tefadi. No well, but water easily gotby digging. Track now leads over bad ground broken up bywatercourses, sand dunes, &c., and re-enters channel 4 mileson, then leaves it and runs on to west bank, winding graduallysouth-west into Khor Farag Salem. (Laiameib.)
Laiameib6½43
Farag Saleib346Here there are 12 or more pools of water,rather salt. This khor runs south-east into Khor Baraka, and whereit meets it, there is a small stone enclosure on a hill held byArabs under Sheikh Abu Fatma, called Langeb. There is one well invalley at foot of hill.
From Khor Farag Salem is seen Jebel AdaAbab, about 10 miles to the south-west. The track runs from thiskhor south-east, then south-west over rocky ground, skirting theKhor Baraka, of which the east bank is lined with hills.
Khor Langeb[8]551Five miles on trackenters channel, and 100 yards further Khor Langeb[8]runs in from the west, about 25 yards wide, and described assimilar to Khor Baraka. Directly afterwards the track leaves khorand proceeds for 8 miles over stony ground on west bank, and thenfor 11 miles over alternate rocky and sandy plains, directionsouth, then re-enters khor and passes pool of dirty water, andafter heavy going in the channel reaches two pools with anyquantity of clear sweet water, called Tebhateit.
Tebhateit2374
[Other accounts of theroad from Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as follows:—
1022At 10 miles from Temeren a large numberof sandhills are reached, covered with a good deal of scrub andtamarisk trees. These sandhills proceed from the neighbourhood ofthe khor towards the Jebel Heina; they are not of any height, butwould form admirable concealment for horse and foot men. Afterpassing through the sandhills, the route re-enters the khor, beingthe first point the khor is touched since Temeren. The khor here isabout 50 paces wide, with a firm sandy bottom, fringed by scrub,though not of a dense character.
There is also a track along the west bankof the Khor Baraka from Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road), but itis bad, leading through thick bush and wood, and much broken bynumerous small khors.
Debetawateb325Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet deep,situated close to west bank of khor. Wells mostly together, waterbrackish (April). The wells are placed in what practically is agorge. The left bank rises in a rocky hill from 150 to 200 feethigh, and gradually falls away into a wide open stony plain, which,with occasional rocky isolated hills, extends to the high mountainof Jebel Shaba. On the right bank the hills are higher, formed intonumerous peaks, the hills gradually losing themselves in the JebelHaina. The rush of water down this gorge is very considerable whenthe Baraka is in flood; it is said to be of such force as to sweepa camel with ease before it. The hills of this gorge would form afair position; though, perhaps, capable of being turned by thewest. Such dense scrub approaches to within a few yards of the south side of the hill onthe left bank that it would enable an enemy on the hill to defendhimself from this bush with reasonable prospects of success, andmake it a difficult operation to touch the top of the ridge of thehills without carrying the bush. This gorge would seem to be thebest place to put a barrage, should such a work ever becontemplated. After leaving the wells the route follows the khor,which now opens out very considerably. The west bank is coveredwith dense bush, mostly tamarisk trees; the east bank has aconsiderable amount of bush, but the belt is not so broad or sohigh as that on the opposite bank.
227After about ¾ hour is reached a largepatch of dura crop planted in the bed of the khor, dense bushcontinuing on the left bank; after ½ hour, reach a few water holeson the right side of the khor, evidently used for the cultivationof the above-mentioned dura. After passing the cultivation the khormaintains the same general appearance.
From here a short cut may be made toTamatu by leaving the khor, and marching over a scrubby plain,going rough, and cut up by small khors and hills.
The path now leads by the right bank ofthe khor, and clear of it; the ground here is much cut up byravines and watercourses, covered with dense bush, in fact might bedescribed as a regular jungle. After passing this rough ground thekhor is again struck at
Odwan (meaning greatwaterpot).431The khor here is in a channel 16 to 18feet deep; the channel bifurcates, the old bed passing in awesterly direction, the new cutting for itself a passage in a morenortherly direction. Pools here before the Baraka floods, runningwater in winter. No definite wells. On 16th July, 1894, the khorhere was a rapid stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and 4 feetdeep.
Khor takes sharp bend to the west. Bushon either bank very dense; tamarisks and bushes bound together withbright green creepers.
Tamatu (or Tefadi?)637Fifty wells near west (?) bank of khor, 5feet deep; water brackish.
Route now goes along bed of khor, goodgoing, muddy soil with patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high anddensely wooded. Four miles (?) on, the khor is left, and an openplain to the west crossed, covered with scattered scrub, groundgenerally stony. Spurs of Shaba range extend to within half mile ofkhor.
Laiameib845Lies a mile to the west of the KhorBaraka, and is reached by proceeding up a stony tributary khor withoccasional trees, a few dom palms marking the entrance to the khor.This point is called Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50 to 100 feethigh. The wells lie at the foot of a mass of irregular rocks, whichstop further advance.
The reservoir of rain water is situatedunder the rocks, and is reached by a narrow downward passage whichfinally opens into a subterranean cave. The entrance to the cave issufficiently high and wide to admit the passage of two horses atthe same time. The water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of excellentquality and most delicious to drink, covering about 15 feet square,and taking up the greater part of the cave.
Khor Farag Saleib348Three miles south of the Khor Laiameib,the Khor Farag Saleib is crossed. Here the Baraka forms a lake inflood time.
Langeb351The entrance to the khor of that name,which trends south-west from here.
Tebhateit1263Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel Haggr,6,000 feet.
(From this point CaptainMcKerrell is the authority.)
After Tebhateit (74 miles) the track nowruns on to east bank, and winds gradually south over broken rockyground; 5 miles on re-enters khor, and runs through dense mass oftamarisk and scrub into channel 100 yards wide here, and khor ½ to¾ mile wide.
Ambakta882Shortly afterwards reach Khor Ambakta,with one well. This is where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets theBaraka on the east bank. Jebel Senad, to the west, is a goodlandmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on east. Channel now twists about agood deal, then runs south-west; both banks lined with hills.
Hakhal890Eight miles on is Hakal; one well, 6 feetdown, good water.
Adardeb999Track continues south-west and entersEritrean territory, and 9 miles on reaches Adardeb, with threewells, 4 feet down; good water. Three miles on channel splits upand runs east and west; track leads over ground between. Very badgoing over ground broken up by watercourses and sand dunes for next6 miles; channel is then re-entered and Khor Salha is reached.
Khor Salha10109Five wells, 4 feetdown, good water. This is a large khor running in from the east,and is itself joined by Khor Anseba, about 10 miles east, whichlatter khor comes from south-east. From here Jebel Adarkalab, avery high hill, is seen due south, and Jebel Skena due west, acone-shaped hill. Track leaves channel here and runs along eastbank, passing, 3 miles on, two stone pepper pots, built byDervishes. Bad going over very broken ground, intersected bywatercourses, for next 8 miles; then re-enters channel and reachesfour wells, water 4 feet down, and some small rain pools, from oneof which two fish were caught. One hundred yards on is Jebel Sotaion west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east, bank; latter swarming withgrey monkeys. These hills are about 60 yards apart, and the rush ofwater between them at flood must be very great.
Khor Anseba——
Jebel Sotai9118
Akiduli (Koliteb?)4122Four miles on is ablack rock, called “Akiduli,” on east bank, with figures of camels,men, and ostriches scratched over it. Water here also in pools andold wells, in places only 2 feet down. Further on is Khor Attai,with wells; water good, and 4 feet down.
Khor Attai2124
Kolik18142Track now runs south, and hills recede oneither side; khor widening to about a mile east and west; channel100 yards, and shallow, lined with thick tamarisk and bush.Thirteen miles on passed several wells, old and new, and later khorcontracts and hills run down on either flank; reach Kolik.
Khor Tamaguanti6148Jebel Koreb is seen here, a landmark tothe west. There is water. Then track leaves khor and crosses weston to a wide, fairly open, sandy plain. Long range of black hillson east, running with khor, country west much more open and hillsfar away. Six miles on, cross Khor Tamaguanti, running south-west,which is lined with dom palms, has an old well with good water, anda few inhabitants. Track continues over plain passing “Mala” ofSheikh Abu Tahir, who was head of the Hadendoa tribe in MohammedAli’s time. Here there are between 200 and 300 graves; plain iscovered with coarse grass and acacia.
Khor Lokweb11159Track now leaves KhorBaraka and enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor running into the Barakafrom the south-west; channel, lined with any number of dom palms,100 yards wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high. Two good wells here,water 5 feet down; track continues in khor, direction south-west,for 2 miles and comes to two new wells, water 6 feet down. Thenleaves khor to avoid heavy sand, and runs parallel to it on westbank, but here also going is bad, over very broken ground coveredwith bush. Eight miles on track runs over rocky ground, two hillsappear on both flanks. Sixteen miles on passes old stone house onhill to left and shortly after re-enters Khor Lokweb at spot calledKhashm El Kawab, where there were two wells, water 3 feet down,slightly salt. Track now runs south-west and then for 8 miles west.Channel blocked by large stone boulders after first mile, bad goingthrough deep sand, dom palms on both banks, also saw two witheredTebeldis with edible fruit like an elongated pear. Six miles onreached three wells called Khashm Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khorand marched west over plain, covered with acacia, &c. Thenre-entered khor and reached three at Khashm Ribdab, goodwater.
Khashm El Kawab19178
Khashm Hodelt6184
Khashm Ribdab6190
No water for the next 28 miles.
Jebel Irkit-Anob8198Track leaves KhorLokweb now, which runs west, and enters Khor Ribdab. Channel 50 to100 yards wide, with low banks covered with bush, hard sandybottom, excellent going, direction due south. Sighted here, duesouth, curious grey hill, with top sticking up like a chimney,called Jebel Irkit Anob, a good land mark. Natives said no one hadever been able to climb to its top. Three miles on reached plain, where the oldMamuria stood. Five miles on passed close to the above-mentionedhill, leaving it on our left. Track shortly afterwards leaves khorand runs west over plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c. Ninemiles on reached hill called Tiniki, with a single thorn tree onits east shoulder, moved round its east flank in single file intoplain beyond; direction west, bad going, and axes had to be used inplaces. Fifteen miles on sighted Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush-grown plain. Shortly after track passes between low hills on theright, called Shushaieb, and a large burying ground on left, called“Balad Ali Gabret,” and enters shortly after khor of that name,running south and west, with six wells of good water, 4 feet belowsurface. Plenty of shade. Jebel Sabderat is seen on leftfront.
Jebel Shushaieb16214
Khor Ali Gabret4218
Kassala18236Track now leaves khor and runs south-westover grassy park-like plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad goingin places. Seven miles on sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing it onour left, reached Kassala, 3 miles further on.

10.—KASSALA to MAMAN direct.

By Captain H. H. Morant, April, 1900.

General Remarks.The most direct road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves Kassala in N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and after following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country: good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors, some of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains. Though water is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in April, 1900, to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50 natives on foot, and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the wells at Tukruf, near Kassala, without any special arrangements for water.

Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to Suakin N. of Maman, vide [Route 8.]

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kassala——
Khor Girger (Wells)1919Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very littlewater in April, 1900.
Tendelai-i ( Wells)1231From here the trackcontinues N.N.E. by N., passing about midway between Jebels Roreband Shushaieb to the northern extremity of the latter, where thereare several wells in the khor called Tendelai-i. These wells hadalso very little water. From here the track continues in the samedirection, good going, country open and grassy, scattered bushexcept along khors, several of which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk,before reaching which Jebel Obillit is passed about 2 miles to thewest. There was said to be a well in the khor somewhere near thisjebel. From here to Maman, country very open; good hard going andshort grass. Three more khors are crossed, chief of which isTogan.
Khor Telkuk, or El Ku, orObillit2051
960
Maman565The wells in K. Maman. Many GemilabHadendoas here.

11.—ADARAMA to BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB).

By Captain Kenrick, 11th Hussars, September, 1901.

N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season and the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much reliance cannot therefore be placed on previous reports.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Adarama——Afterleaving Adarama the road goes E. for about 6 miles over sandy soilcovered with tufts of dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab is visibleto the S.E. Khor Amab is then crossed; this is always dry, I wastold; it comes from S.E., and runs a little way further to the N.Osman Digna is said to have had his extreme E. outpost of 20 menhere to levy blackmail on anyone coming to Berber. There are acaciabushes in this khor. Two miles after crossing the khor, the rangeJebel Tobrar comes into view. All bushes cease here, and for 4 or 5miles the way is over an undulating sandy country with tufts ofwithered grass. On descending a low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is metrunning S.W. and draining a black, light sandy plain running E. andW., along which the way proceeds for 6 miles; low sand hills to theS. The plain is treeless, except a few stunted bushes in KhorShedieb. After marching E. over this plain the sand hills begin toclose in at a place called El Yukreik, where there is a littleshade from a few small tundub bushes; this is said to be full ofwater and green grass in a rainy year, but it is quite dry now;this is about 20 miles distant from Adarama. The direction is theneastwards through a succession of valleys shut in by low sand hillsrunning N. and S. about 3 miles by 3 miles. One valley, just beforeentering the Hegerib Plain in which Bir Kerikun lies, is full ofbushes and is cotton soil, but not bad going; there must be a gooddeal of water all over this country in a good year, but it is quitedry now. There is no grass for horses the whole way; the going isgood, but a little heavy over the sand hills from one valley toanother, and also, except just when entering Wadi Hegerib, 3 milesbefore reaching Bir Kerikun.
Jebel Tobrar28
Khor Shedieb513
El Yukreik720
Bir Kerikun1535
¾35¾On leaving Bir Kerikun, marchN. about ¾ mile to get over the low sand hills, the way then goesE. and slightly N. The road winds a little when passing over thesand hills to get out of the valleys, which are exactly similar tothose about 12 miles before Kerikun, except that there are moreselem or samr bushes in them, which give a fair amount of shade.Just before entering Wadi Todabanob there is a valley which theArabs told me is capital grazing in a good year.
Khor Shanfaiet——KhorShanfaiet comes in at the S.W. corner of this valley. Largegraveyard of Shebodinab Arabs here. Going good; sand a little heavyacross the sand hills. No grass fit for horses. On entering WadiTodabanob the wells lie at the foot of a sand hill. They are about8 in number (though there are others quite filled up in other partsof the valley); three only of these are open, and two of these onlyhad water in them; they are unlined. They were:—
Todabanob13¼49
Depth to water14 feet.
Depth of water2½ feet (approx.).
Circumference3¼ feet.
I got about 3 camel fantassesfull out of them. I have now learnt from three sources that it was,as I suspected at the time, only rain water from the shower twonights before. They are now almost dry. Excellent shade inTodabanob from large sayal trees; no grass; must be swamp in a wetyear. No Arabs at all on the route. Wadi Todabanob runs N. and S.Khor Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about).
J. Sanai——Afterpassing eastwards over the sand hills leading out of WadiTodabanob, J. Sanai comes into view in the E., and J. Ararab toS.E.; after a switchback course of about 2½ miles over the sandhills the road drops into Wadi Shakauni, half of which is coveredwith withered Tabas grass, and a little green grass, tundub bushes,and Senna, the remaining half barren sand; this is crossed aftermarching 3 miles. On ascending a slight ridge the sand hills areleft, and Khor Derudeb comes into sight about 6 miles off, runningin a half-circle from N.E. to S.W. J. Tebilol, in the E., is alsosighted. The ground just before coming to Khor Derudeb, as in thelow-lying parts of all these khors, is cotton soil, but the goingis not bad. About 12 miles from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb iscrossed at a point called El Garud, where there are rain pits;these cannot be relied on for water. The way now goes eastwards forabout 11 miles over a stony plain, but good going on tracks, pastJ. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob. There was very little water when Icame here, but a violent storm came on in the night and broughtdown the khor; after such a storm there is plenty of water,sufficient, I think, to last for four or five months. There was onelarge pool of water, 40 yards long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feetdeep. Plenty of shade near the khor, and good grass on the banks.The plain just before Khor El Ashob is treeless; the going thewhole way is good.
J. Ararab——
Wadi Shakauni2½51½
J. Tebilol——
Khor Derudeb——
El Garud9½61
J. Tebilol——
Khor El Ashob10½71½
Jebel Wararaweb——The roadgoes eastwards through the pass of J. Wararaweb, but there areseveral miles (3) of cotton soil to pass first. The pass itself isvery stony, broken ground and bad going for about 3 of 4 moremiles. Then S.E. over a very stony plain for 10 miles to KhorGodamaieb; this plain is crossed by small khor, near which and inwhich there is always a little green grass and some shade. KhorGodamaieb was dry. The well Tisharam is on the west bank, and is avery good one, though unlined; its dimensions were:—
Khor Hambokeb
Khor Godamaieb——
Tisharam38½110
Depth to water9 feet.
Depth of water (good)5 feet.
Circumference7 feet.
I was told Osman Digna usuallywent viâ Khor El Ashob, Bir Delai and Khor Delai to KhorAraf. Plenty of dom palms on each bank, some coarse green grass;remains of a very large old well filled up.
Khor Angwatiri2½112½CrossKhor Godamaieb, about 50 yards wide, march N.E. over a road for themost part stony, except 2½ miles from Khor Godamaieb, where KhorAngwatiri is crossed; there is green grass in plenty, and someshade from thorn bushes. It was full of Gemilab Arabs and theirflocks, who water away to the E. in Khor Amboreb, where there aresome pools of water. After 5 miles further you enter the hills, andthere are 4 miles of very bad stony going in and out of small khorsin the midst of stony mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi,about 1 mile long, with dom palms on both banks; then Khor Arafcomes in from the N.W., and the way to Khor Langeb is up this khor,averaging 30 or 40 yards in width, thick dom trees on either bank,coarse green grass in places, but not in any great quantity. Themountains all through run down to the dom palms on the banks of theKhor Araf on each side; away in the distance are some very highstony peaks. A very few Gemilab were in the khor. The going on thewhole is very good in the khor, except in a few places where thesand is heavy. About 5 miles from junction of Khor Araf with KhorBarshoi was a pool of rain water near the left bank, about 15 yardslong, 4 yards broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool to be relied on isEl Getite, on left bank of Khor Araf, about 16 miles from junctionof Khor Araf and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir Tisharam; it israinwater and will last 4 months. It is close up to the rock wherethe hills run down into the khor. It is 209 yards long, 10 yardsbroad, and 10 or 12 feet deep. Muddy water, but quitewholesome.
Khor Amboreb7½120
Khor Barshoi4124
Khor Araf6130
El Getite11141
Umna Dunyin10151The roadthen goes on down Khor Araf with many twists and turns till thepool of rain-water called Umna Dunyin is reached, about 10miles from El Getite,but 15 yards long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or 5 feet deep in thecentre, will probably last 2 months more. After 2½ miles from UmnaDunyin, J. Hambolib is in sight, round which the khor twists forabout 3 miles, till the wells called J. Hamboliebare passed. They are filled up with sand, and only a person whoknew them well would know they had ever existed. However, I wastold there is water underneath; if so, a small fatigue party couldclean out the sand in a few hours. I think Khor Langeb joins KhorAraf just near here, running due E. here. Dom palms, tarfa jungle,and small quantity of green grass on the banks. Five miles up thiskhor, on left bank, is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small Khor Oshi; thesame remarks apply to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. Bir Gabati,slightly further on, I was told is the same. There is, I am told,water in Khor Odi, and a big pool at Areiwat, andno lack of water further on. On the right bank on entering KhorLangeb are some graves on a hill, said to be the graves of Romansoldiers; the Hadendoas are afraid of opening them, though theythink there is treasure there.
J. Hambolib2½153½
Bir Oshi4½158
Bir Oshi is distant about 48miles from Bir Tisharam, this is owing to the twists the khormakes, and one is not able to leave Khor Araf often on account ofthe hills coming down close to the banks of the khor and renderingthe ground impassable.

12.—EL GETITE (in KHOR ARAF) to ADARAMA, viâ BIR DELAI and TENDERA.

By Captain Kenrick, September, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Getite——Marchfrom El Getite to junction of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi(vide previous route report), then march for 2 miles N.W.up Khor Araf almost to its source; the khor narrows here and thepath is a little stony in places, then turn W. over a stony plainfor 2 miles, very fairly good going until the source of Khor ElAshob is reached. From this place may be sighted sources of KhorAraf and Khor Amboreb, which runs away apparently S.E. There wasplenty of grass and shade here. Leaving Khor El Ashob, which runsaway to the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. again to join KhorDerudeb, march S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles distant; road stony,but good going on sheep tracks, the stones are not very thick, noris it rocky. Cross several khors en route, Khor Beida isone of them; there is a little grass in all of these. On reachingKhor Delai, after going a few yards down the khor the well isreached in the centre of the khor, recently cleaned out by theArabs, but there are none here now. The well is lined withwood.
Khor Barshoi1717
Khor El Ashob421
Khor Delai7½28½
Khor Beida——
Bir Delai—28½
Depth to water 3½feet.
Depth of water (very clean)10 „
Circumference (approx.) 7 „
Goodcattle watering places round the well. Good shade. Some green grassin the khor.
533½Afterleaving Bir Delai, first march 5 miles along right bank of KhorDelai (looking towards mouth of khor), direction W., cross the khorat the point where it runs slightly N.W. to join Khor El Ashob,then 8 miles over stony, but very level plain, excellent going incattle tracks andsheep tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long,12 feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well filled up, 3 miles to N.W.;could be opened if necessary in khor under dom palm.
Pool El Ashob841½
Khor Derudeb546½LeaveKhor El Ashob, crossing to right bank (looking towards mouth),going in a westerly direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, cross thiskhor. A little cotton soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, goingotherwise good, over light, stony, sandy soil, but no shade exceptat the khors. Then N.W. 10 miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem,coming from N. of J. Torbraa range; going good, grass in Khor AbuSillem, also shade. N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor Breitak,there I found two pools of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. They werein the khor and were about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad and 1 footdeep. About 5 miles of some of the best grazing I have seen in thecountry. The Sheikh said the water had been there 2 months andwould only last 9 days more, another Arab I asked said a monthmore. The Sheikh also pointed out the road to the N. to BirTendera; both he and my guides said half a day’s journey,i.e., 13 miles, easy road, and it looked good what I sawof it. Very good shade here.
Khor Abu Sillem1056½
Khor Breitak662½
Bir Tendera1375½
Sekotieb2095½From Tendera, Adarama is 40miles (Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), road easy (there may be alittle cotton soil), some shade and grass at Bir Tendera, also someshade at Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) from Adarama. The well(Tendera) itself is large, always has water in it.
Adarama20115½This information, though Ihave seen the road as far as Khor Shedieb and corroborate it sofar, is hearsay, as I had not time to go there myself. Myinformants are my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa and the MulazimAwal, of Slavery Department at Adarama, all of whom have beenthere, and many Arabs re water.

Note.—In the long grass (September) a large number of snakes exactly similar to the Indian cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The Hadendoa name for them is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them “Dugga.”

13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA).

By Captain H. H. S. Morant.—March, 1900.

N.B.—For description of route further east and notes on this road, vide [Route 125,] Appendix.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Umbrega[9]——From here there is atolerably distinct track following the crest-line of the plateau,and the river is seen and approachable only occasionally, beingalways 1 to 4 miles on left. The descents to Meshras Abedo andGodema are passed, and then the burial ground and khor of TorabKaruf, further on the district of Sheikh Ageil and Meshra ElZuhani. From Sheikh Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both visible N.N.W.and S.S.W. respectively, latter being on boundary of Hamranstowards Abyssinia.
Abedo3¾3¾
Godema¾4½
K. Turab Karuf1¼5¾
Sheikh Ageil49¾
El Zuhani1½11¼
Gat Wad El Hag6½17¾Leaving this, thepath passes clearings of former cultivation, and after 3 miles ofthick bush, Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk is reached,and after following bed of river for ½ a mile, plateau is regained,and Gira is next Meshra. On left bank are cliffs, on which aresituated the ruins of the old Egyptian Fort. K. Lobetir and K. WadHeleiwa being crossed, village of latter name, which is the soleexisting one of Hamrans at present time, is reached. From hereSetit is crossed, and later R. Atbara and village of Sofi isreached.
El Hagar El Zuruk1¾19½
Gira10½30
K. Lobetir636
K. Wad Heleiwa238
Setit1¼39¼
Atbara7½46¾
Sofi¾47½Little game was seen between Umbrega andSofi.

[1]Camel transport.

[2]For further details regarding the water supply along this route vide “Report on the Nile and country between Dongola, &c.,” 1898.

[3]Meaning “red stone” in Hadendoa.

[4]“Black stone” in Hadendoa.

[5]Fuel should be carried between Ariab and Maho Bey.

[6]From Suakin.

[7]Now many.

[8]If it is not desired to march through Italian territory from this point, the route mentioned in the previous report may be taken by marching up Khor Langeb to junction Khor Windi, and thence up the latter khor for about 20 miles until the eastern road is met.

[9]The Sudan-Eritrea frontier here runs from a point on the Hafeira-Umbrega road, marked by a blazed heglig tree, straight to the bend of the Setit immediately opposite the mouth of the Khor Royan, which enters the Setit on the left bank about 11 miles above Umbrega.

CHAPTER IV.

(EASTERN SUDAN.)

14.—KHARTOUM NORTH to KASSALA, viâ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA, and EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot (January, 1900) with additions by Captains Boulnois (March, 1900) and Morant (January, 1901).

General Description.

Road.At this season (January) the going is good throughout, except for the few miles between Um Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out of Rera eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going is not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to camels. The gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion of the route is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable when wet, so that in autumn this route must be difficult for camels for at any rate a day after heavy rain.

There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is rarely found and is non-existent for considerable stretches.

Rivers.The Atbara bed lies from 100-200 feet below the level of the surrounding plains. On either side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of broken ground covered with scattered bush, through which the track proceeds by easy gradients. As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri from end of June to middle of October. During these months travellers cross by the boat ferry at Suweihil some 5 miles further south.

The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together during the flood season which lasts during July, August and September.

Supplies.A good deal of dura is grown near the track and some might be obtainable at the right time of year. Sheep and milk can be got at many places. Firewood is to be found everywhere up to El Giseima (66 miles), after that it is very scarce till the Atbara is reached.

Water.As tanks are very numerous, water must be very plentiful in autumn and early winter.

The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh was found to be roughly 250 feet.

There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks that want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the wells visited had an ample supply.

Inhabitants.The village of Um Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country east of Um Dibban.

A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as far as the left bank of the Atbara.

Grazing.There is excellent tree grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy days.

The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not burnt.

Cultivation.An immense area is capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are favourable.

Game.There is practically nothing to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few miles of the Atbara.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum North——Starting E. from theArtillery Lines at Khartoum N., a well marked track is soon struck,which continues up the Blue Nile cutting off corners where itbends. It passes the village of Kuku (whence a track leads toSheikh El Amin and afterwards rejoins this route), the two villagesof Gereif, where there is some cultivation, and at about 12 milesthe village of Um Dom. At about 19 miles, after passing some lowmounds covered with frequent fragments of stone and brick, said tobe the remains of Old Soba, the road bifurcates and the branch tothe left is taken, a clearly marked track. For the first few milesthe path passes through thinly scattered trees, which gradually getthicker, till at 23 miles they restrict the view in any directionto 200 or 300 yards. At 25½ miles a well is passed on the right ofthe road, and at 27 miles Um Dibban is reached. This is a scatteredbut well-built mud village on perfectly flat ground, from which allvegetation has been removed for a radius of 1,000 to 1,500yards.
Old Soba1919
Um Dibban827
It was formed by a holy man named SheikhEl Obeid, who established a school and caused a tank to be dug. Hisdescendants still live there and keep up the school, but they nowhave hankerings after temporal power.
The Sheikh El Obeid family and followerswere early and fanatical adherents of the Mahdi, and it was inattempting to surprise them that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his forceswere cut to pieces in 1884.
There are two wells about 112 feet deep,one inside, and the other 200 yards W. of the S.W. corner ofvillage.
The inhabitants belong to various tribes;many have land on the Blue Nile, and some cultivate land to theE.
Wad Badrub (Wad Agid)4¼31¼The road starts slightly N. of E., andgenerally traverses a thin forest of thorny trees, not thick enoughreally to impede troops, but necessitating a little dodging hereand there. At 4¼ miles it passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to be 140feet deep, belonging to Um Dibban. About 200 yards further on, andagain after 4 more miles, dry tanks were passed.
The track maintains a general directionof a little N. of E., but constantly makes considerable changes forshort distances.
Wad Hedeibab7¾39Well.
Um Sideira746Well.
450A dry tank in the Elwan district ispassed. There is said to be a well of the same name 2 miles to theS.E. This district originally belonged to the Shukria, but is nowoccupied by the Batahin.
The country soon becomes more open and aconsiderable extent, perhaps 600 or more feddans of dura,cultivated by the Batahin was passed.
El Ereigib555There are some wells (which were out ofrepair; January 1901) and several dry tanks, and one with waterabout 1 mile N.E. Plenty of fair sized trees.
A small number of Mesellemia Arabs,Sheikh Mahi, were there. They were originally under the Shukria,but during the Mahdia came under Sheikh El Obeid.
Another rather shorter route is fromKhartoum N. to El Ereigib, viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well,thence passing two lots of salt works to the village of ElMelaha (13 miles), large tank, plenty of water (January,1901), thence to a second village of El Melaha (2½ miles),salt well, thence to a deep but good well at Elwan (22½miles), and total distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) is 53½miles.
Wadi Sereria6½6½The country soon becomes more open,several tanks are passed. At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in goodpreservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ mileto the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water inthe neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare oftrees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 6½ milessome Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. iscrossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close athand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna toRufaa is crossed. No water along it except tanks.
El Giseima[10]4½66A tank about 100 feet in diameter onrather high ground surrounded by a few trees, 2 feet of water init, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, no trees are seen till Rera isreached, except where belts of “kittr” bushes mark the lines ofWadis or a small clump of thorn trees shows the position of a tank;firewood should be provided for.
Wadi Abu Sueid470The absence of treesenables one to see far over the wide plains, mostly of arable soiland covered at this season with dry “Mahareib” and “Hamra” grass.At 4 miles, an unusually pronounced drainage line said to come fromAbu Deleig is crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid andthe lower Wadi Hasit, said to be much cultivation along it, butnone was seen. Thence across a gravelly plateau from which 4 milesfurther on Geili hill can be seen. At 76th mile road descends shortslope to Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, water, nor good grazing.
Astaneit676
Khor Dengalia480From here on toGeili, the road generally makes for the hill. The main trackprobably avoids Astaneit tank, leaving it to the right. At 80thmile the Khor Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi Nail, and half milefurther on the Wadi Ankia are crossed, all flowing south. 5½ milesfurther on the N. end of the Geili hill was reached. The best placeto halt is ½ mile further on at the S.E. end, where a huge fallenboulder affords good shade for two or three persons. It has anancient carving in Egyptian style on the side nearest thehill.
Wadi Nail484
Wadi Ankia½84½
Geili690½
J. Geili is a granite outcrop about 250feet high, rising out of a gentle elevation in the plain. On E. andS. are some low knolls enclosing a small open space, in which thewells now most used are situated. There are said to be about thirtywells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet,yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but nofirewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even therenailed boots must be taken off.
From the summit a good view is obtained.Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb ofthe “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, whomarried Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs.
From Geili there are two roads to UmRueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour.It starts on a bearing of about 66° from true N. straight for J. ElDaein, passing over good soil nearly all the way, several hundredfeddans of which appear to have been cultivated (1901). The groundis much cracked and off the path, the going is bad.
J. El Daein22112½Two small hills of which the southern isthe higher. There is a tank, now dry, at its foot on W. side, Hamlatook 8 hours, going well.
Um Ukheita14½127The track now turns slightly S. of E. andcontinues over good soil rather bare of grass to Um Ukheita, a tanknow dry, on a slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 hours. From here onto Um Rueishid the ground is covered with angular stones, and thegoing very bad. Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles J. Rera is seen tothe S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving onthe right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 6¼ milesthe track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to thewell of Um Rueishid.
The more direct road, which would appearto be the best in every way, runs nearly due E. over a “Nal” grasscovered plain devoid of bush, therefore also of shade and firewood,to Sofeiya El Wata (23 miles) a large tank (dry January, 1901),where there is excellent shade for a small party. From here to UmRueishid (20 miles), track traverses similar country, though it isoccasionally stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to the S. of thetrack.
Um Rueishid8¼135¼This well is said to be 30 or 35 feetdeep. It is situated on bare stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ mileto the S. There are a few small thorn bushes S. of well, but thereis very little shade and little grazing, and it is altogetherrather an unpleasant halting place.
From Um Rueishid there is a track viâ ElSofeiya and Dimiat to Asubri. It seems the most direct linepossible, vide description below.
The route followed after about 1 mile of stonyplain strikes a well marked track on good cultivable soil, andmakes straight for J. Rera.
At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi Jerrabaflowing S., and 6 miles W. Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. Kananflowing N. All are flat depressions with cracked soil and marked bylines of “kittr” bushes. Parts of their courses are cultivated. At18 miles, track enters ground strewn with quartz pebbles, andcovered with grass which continues as far as Rera.
Rera22¼157½Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills consist ofthree rocky ridges almost in line, running E. and W. and some lowsubsidiary elevation; S. of the centre ridge is a well and a drywater hole. Immediately to the S. of the W. end of the eastern andhighest ridge are more wells now in use. On the N. side of theshort and low pass that leads to these wells from the N. is a deepdry tank. Before the Mahdia immense flocks and herds used to waterhere. In the eastern and highest ridge are several rock tankscontaining water.
From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat toAsubri. It is more direct and better marked than the one followed,but was not taken as the rock tanks at Dimiat were said to be dry(January, 1900). The eastern ridge is not difficult to ascend andcommands a good view. The natives say J. Kassala can be seen fromit on a fine day during the rains. Variation of prismatic compassabout 3½° W.
There is no marked track for the first 5miles towards El Sadda, and the going is bad over pebbles andthrough long grass.
After that a well marked track isreached, which continues the rest of the way.
Wadi Atiam7154½At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is passedflowing N. It goes to El Sofeiya, and as far again beyond it diesaway. Much cultivation along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the road israther bad and stony till it has passed the Atash hills by a shortand easy gap, and enters an open plain which extends to ElSadda.
Several tanks are passed on the right,known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ hours.
El Sadda25½180There are several wells here about ½ mileW. of S. end of J. El Sadda, a low ridge running N. and S. The onewell visited was said to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty of grass,but no trees nor firewood. On the N. and W. of the hill and closeto its foot are a number of circular stone mounds neatly built,which appear to be tumuli, and probably date from a time anteriorto the present inhabitants. The two biggest are immediately underthe highest point. From here to the Atbara there is no track and nowater. Bushes mark the drainage lines, otherwise the plains arebare of all but grass. Much of the ground is cracked andconsequently bad going. The route followed eventually struck thewell marked track made by the Dervishes from Dimiat, and kept alongit to Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri the main road along the leftbank of the Atbara is crossed. Soon after, the track descends intothe broken ground which fringes both banks of the Atbara to a widthof 2 or more miles. The actual banks at Asubri are 15 to 20 feethigh and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles are plentiful. The ford inJanuary, 1901 was 120 yards long and 2½ feet deep.
Asubri (R. Atbara)57237Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. A niceshady camp on right bank for a very small party. Mosquitos few, butparticularly poisonous.
Asubri is the name of a strip of landextending for some miles along both banks of the Atbara. On theleft bank, near the ford, is an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is abuilding formerly occupied by Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, theDervish Emir in command of their post here in 1897 and early in1898.
On leaving camp, the track winds in andout of khors and up gentle slopes through bushes, till at 2 or 3miles it emerges on to the plain, which is of good soil coveredwith scattered bush. The general direction is straight for J.Kassala.
At about 6 miles the track from Suweihiljoins in on the right, and from this on, the road is well marked.Many ariel and gazelle, and a few ostriches seen.
Um Siteiba21258At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly calledhalf way is passed. Here is a large natural pond for about 4 monthsin the rains, but now dry. Serut fly bad when there is waterhere.
About 6 miles from Kassala, the trackturns N.E. and traverses more thickly wooded country, till itreaches the bed of the Gash, now dry, some 700 yards wide,immediately beyond which lies the old town of Kassala.
Kassala17275The old name, Taka, may now be regardedas obsolete. The former town is a complete ruin, of which nothingremains except the circular bastions. The new town has been builtclose by the S.E. and consists largely of Tukls. The Fort, built bythe Italians, is just E. of the N. end of the old town.
Telegraph lines from Suakin, Massawa, andKhartoum viâ Gedaref meet here.
UM RUEISHIDviâ SOFEIYA to ASUBRI.
Khartoum, N.——
Um Rueishid—135¼From Um Rueishid where the ground is verystony, the track which is well defined, starts at a bearing of 112°from true N., and very soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed flowing N.,it is said to eventually unite with the Wadi Khasa.
Wadi Khasa7½142¾There are signs of a good deal ofcultivation along this wadi.
J. Um El Gurud1½144¼J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill about ¼mile long is passed about 1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further onSheikh
Sh. Naim’s Tomb1½145¾Naim’s tomb,conspicuous on top of a gentle slope, is passed on N. side of theroad. Open bushless grass country continued until nearing ElSofeiya, where scattered bush and granite rocks appear. There aresome forty wells here, though water supply decreases considerablyin the dry season, they vary from 50 to 100 feet in depth.
El Sofeiya9½155¼
15½170¾The people here, who are Shukria underSh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin, live in tents made of matting; there areno permanent buildings of any sort, and the encampments are smalland scattered. The direct road to Kassala, which is difficult totrace for the first mile or so after leaving the wells, soonbecomes well defined, having been much used during the Mahdia, andleads over open flat grassy land from J. Gurun, which it leavesabout 2½ miles to the S. Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan (11½miles) being crossed en route, flowing N.
Wadi Giref6½177¼J. Giref is passed about 3 miles N. oftrack and Wadi Giref is crossed about a mile further on.
From here to J. Dimiat is about 15 miles,Wadi Girgoja being crossed at about half way.
J. Dimiat15192¼A granite hill about 100 feet high. Thereis a natural tank about half way up, inaccessible for camels, whichafter a good rainy season contains water till the end of January,but is not to be relied on. There is a certain amount of laot busharound the base of the Jebel, which serves as firewood, and somedetached boulders give shade for a small party.
Ogba El Bagar18210¼From here to the Atbara valley about 33miles there is no bush, with the exception of two thin belts calledOgba El Bagar about 5 miles apart.
7½217¾The road bifurcates, one to Gandaua, Sh.Omara Abu Sin’s village on the Atbara, the other is the Dervishtrack to Asubri. The route taken (January, 1901) was neither, butdirection lay for 3 miles S.E., and then due E. through scatteredbush to edge of plateau.
Edge of Plateau8½226¼From this point Jebels Kassala, AbuGamel, &c., are plainly visible. Also are several small hillssome 10 miles to the S. and S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar,whilst J. Leinun is visible a similar distance to the N.
Asubri2¼228½The road now descends a khor by easygradients to the bed of the Atbara at the well known Meshra ofAsubri.

15.—GOZ REGEB to SHENDI viâ ABU DELEIG.

By Captain W. A. Boulnois, April, 1900.

General Remarks. Road.From Goz Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30 miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig market were met.

The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi.

The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever tracts of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are many, it would be impracticable in the wet season at times.

From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all the year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles in the rains.

The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide.

Supplies.A fair amount of dura is grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily obtainable there in small quantities.

A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and also a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all depends on the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi.

Wood.Firewood is not to be obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles of Abu Deleig; plenty elsewhere.

Water.None from Goz Regeb to Sheg, about 65 miles.

Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad.

Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi; but there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time.

Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig.

Inhabitants.From Goz Regeb to Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda, Ababda and Hassania.

Grazing.Very good grazing from Sheg to Shendi.

Cultivation.Large tracts and areas capable of growing good crops of dura if rains favourable.

Game.Nothing to shoot between Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Atbara——Descending the bank by the hut on the E.bank the Atbara is crossed and the W. bank ascended ¼ mile S.
Elsewhere the banks are steep, but thebush is not very dense. Track leads to Goz Regeb. The ruined brickbuildings of the old Egyptian town are still standing, and amongstthem the decayed tukls of Osman Digna. A very few inhabitants,descendants of the ancient town of Goz are living there still. Thesite is on high ground, and light sandy soil, a few dom palms, andthe remains of an old garden and cemetery are still visible.
Goz Regeb11Counting from huts onthe E. bank, the distance to the town is 1 mile. The directiontaken, about 260° from the true north, leaves the town of Goz Regebon the N., and passes from sandy undulating ground to level richsoil with very little grass and trees, getting scarcer through ElUera district, leaving the two hills of El Darei on the north side;at about 9 miles the direction taken leads straight to Bewadda.Under the hills of El Darei are bushes and grass.
Bewadda15½16½
Bearing from Bewadda to Sabaat 162°,Erembat 81°, Takallaareid 343°. Bewadda is a granite rock in themiddle of a bare tract.
At 20 miles a ridge about ¼ mile long,quite low, stands 1 mile to the N.; hence the ground is perfectlybare till about 50 miles. Wadis coming from south begin to empty onthe plain, then the going becomes bad in places, especially in thecracked soil near the Wadis. Grass gets more plentiful.
At 51 miles Wadi Royan is crossed, andshortly after Wadi El Doleb and Wadi Sangareh; dura is grown aboutthese wadis.
J. Ikhbeit3652½Bearing to J. Ikhbeit 209°.
The broad Wadi El Abil is crossed at 59miles; there are bushes and firewood in it. Four miles further onthe ground becomes stony after crossing Wadi Wad Masuga, and risesgentle slope of stony ridge.
Shag El Walia13½66Shag El Walia isreached after crossing a second ridge. It is generally calledsimply Shag, no connection with Sheikh. Four wells in use out of14; 120 feet deep, water constant; 200 camels could be watereddaily. A badly defined track leads over a valley with rich soilacross Wadi Baseyayi, then gently up another stony ridge andplateau down to Geleita where are 7 wells in use altogether, about120 feet deep, water constant. There are several wells unopened. Agood many flocks and inhabitants.
Geleita14½80½
Isna Bir17½98Leaving the main group of wells, a trackis followed down bed of khor to the foot of the ridge in N.W.direction, fairly free from stones, past two wells at ¾ mile, andone well at 1¼ miles. The track disappears and rich soil andpasture land is crossed to Isna Bir, where there are 2 wells givinga scanty supply of water, and a few people (Batahin); a few patchesof corn were noticed on the way.
Abu Deleig25123Hence the direction taken is nearly W.,crossing a very fertile tract of country; many water tanks, nowdry, then over the rich land of Hawad, and rising a gentle slopetouches the Khor Girgegi, which waters the Hawad, about 1 mileshort of Abu Deleig.
Good shade all round. Large number ofwells.
2125The best place for asmall party is 2 miles higher up the Girgegi. A well defined track,starting N.W. across Wadi Shilha and leads over good pasture landwith many mimosa trees and sandy soil to Ladda. A large tank hewnout of the rock in the middle of a grass plain. Plenty of water,1/4/00, diameter about 100 feet, depth in middle 5 feet, said tolast all the year. Many flocks; Ababda and Hassania tribes. Tomb ofAtali close to the tank. The track leads past several stony ridgesand sandy soil, across 3 or 4 khors, notably Fehed, and is lostabout 7 miles from Shendi, which is reached descending a long verygradual slope from the high plateau at the foot of J. Girenat andNeheidat. Distance taken to Gubba Shendi.
Ladda20145
Shendi41186

16.—EL DAMER to FASHER (ATBARA).

By Major Bulkeley Johnson, Scots Greys, October, 1901.

General Remarks. Road.From El Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open desert or open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but slightly heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses the whole journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad sand tyre to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal of Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901.

From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush.

The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta, the path is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for single horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun horses on two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders down. I would suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to protect the eyes from thorns.

Water.During first portion of road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is difficult of access owing to thick bush and high banks, except in recognized meshras, often far apart. Water very good; camps good and shady.

On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles away, and very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to broken ground, thick bush, and deep khors running in every direction; camps fair and shady.

Grasses.On Atbara up to Goz Regeb, halfa grass is plentiful along the banks. After El Fasher plenty of green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil, by far the best being abu arid, which, green or dry, is always taken by the natives in preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal is apparently no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than nothing.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Damer——
El Basli1414Road across stony desert. Small village,150-200 inhabitants, about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra. Dom fringe,½ mile broad; outside this, stony desert. Two roads—one throughdoms, the other outside—single track over stones.
From El Busli.
Outside road taken.
¾14¾Meshra Umdebia.
Amerab3¾18½Amerab village, ½mile from river; 50 grass tukls, two mud houses. Big house standingalone. Sheikh Omar.
220½
Minawi1¼21¾Meshra very good.
Goz El Halag425¾Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra) a fewtukls. Road still 2 miles from river. Country changes. Soil becomesloamy, with some sand and scattered bush. River bank lined withdoms.
Girsi5¼31Village. Cultivation by sagias; bigmeshra 2 miles north. Road shortly goes through dura (rain crops),therefore patrol skirted outside this. Country as before; openbush, mostly tundub; no road.
Debbet Bush334Opposite to big village Debbet. Bush W.of outer road; about 2 miles from river. Water from 2 wells.
Burush438Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra.
Abaka341Ditto.
Helal748Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a fewtukls fairly close; bush mixed with doms, about 1 mile broad fromriver.
Shigil250Meshra. Cultivationon and near river. Meshra in a small pool, nearly dry (Oct. 16th).Island, ½ mile long; plenty of neghil grass. Village of Shigil,about 20 tukls; ½ mile from river in bush.
151
Garada152Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles fromriver; narrow path through thickets.
Marzuga254Meshra.
559Bush ends. Road enters open sandy desertwhich stretches down to river, on banks of which fringe of doms,½-1 mile wide.
El Rimta3½62½Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road closeto river. Road runs along river bank through doms and cultivationfor ½ mile, then open sandy desert with sunt and tundub right downto bank; sand hills.
El Awadi3½66Meshra (very good). Good shade for camp.Heavy going for guns. No road.
1076Good meshra. No signs ofcultivation.
Adarama480Meshra opposite Adarama.
383Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of bush,about 1 mile broad, along river; outside this, open flat desertwith a few tundub bushes. Road at times 2 miles from river, acrossbends, and approaches it at mile 97.
1497Meshra, very good (rocky bed);shady camp. Fringe of bush impenetrable (except at meshras) alongbank, about 10 yards broad. This continues for a long distance.Road close to river.
Amiam10107Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank, ¼ milebroad; no inhabitants; going, sandy and bad.
Taroma6113Meshra. Bisharin tuklvillage; about 30 people; flocks; cultivation of dukhn on sandybanks. Meshra, good; dukhn on sandy banks. No signs ofinhabitants.
4117
11128No meshra, but able to get down to riverby group of doms; sandy banks, not much grass (halfa). Road goesaway from river to cut off bend.
5½133½Road divides: right hand to Goz Regebdirect, left keeping near river. Followed left; going becomesworse, with small khors when near river.
Auli2½136Arab encampment. Meshra.
6142Very good meshra; open space onbank. Fine view of river part of Auli. No grass.
2144Meshra. Arab encampment; dukhn,plenty of halfa grass. End of Bisharin tribe.
3147Arab encampment. Arteiga branch ofHadendioa. Great quantities of sheep, cattle and camels.
G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on east, justvisible from here.
Succession of small meshras andencampments.
4151Meshra.
2153Meshra.
1154Cemetery; stony ground.
3157Path debouches into open alluvial plain(short grass and tundub bushes) cutting off bend.
5162Approach river, near which country isbroken and stony. Meshra bad; no grass except a little aburokba (slightly bitter taste when green, and of which some horseswill not eat at first until accustomed). Flocks and cattle. Roadfrom 148th mile close to river, over very rough, broken, stonyground, and at times thick bush. Several small meshras. Goz Regeb’stwo hills visible for first time.
Saraf6168Arab encampment; meshra.
Goz Regeb12180Meshra—1 mile short of it—under palms.Camp (bad), 2 miles further on, at ferry. Camel post opposite;grass, halfa.
This road makes Goz Regeb 100 miles fromAdarama.
From Goz Regeb the road proceeds at about3 miles from river on a flat table land, as the ground between itand the river is rocky and broken by innumerable small watercourses and khors called by natives “karrab.” The going is overalluvial soil, rather heavy. A single track with naal grass oneither side.
Distances are given exclusive of detoursdown to meshras.
Gebuib18198Meshra, very good. Good camping ground;halfa grass. No inhabitants.
10208To meshra, about 3 miles.
6214Ditto.
Umraho4218Ditto. Very good meshra; deep khors oneither side. Bend in river to east; ford (27th Oct. 1901). Countrynear meshra very broken and rough. On turning down this meshra thetops of two small hills are visible on right front. From here roadabout 3 miles from river; going gets harder when nearingAsubri.
8226In line between the two hills and Kassalahill.
10236To meshra.
Omara1237Small village, about ½ mile E. ofroad.
3240To meshra, good. E. 3 miles toriver. Fair camp; abu rokba, but no halfa grass.
3243To Asubri. The road here divides at rightangles: left to Asubri, right direct to El Fasher, described asabout 30 miles and track far from river. Therefore took riverroad—very bad.
Asubri3246Asubri. From here road goes about 1 milefrom river and becomes very good and hard. Country open with treesand short grass. After 10 miles becomes “Karrab” (ground broken bysmall water courses) again.
12258A meshra. Hundreds of camels,thousands of sheep and goats belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Goodmeshra. Bad camp; no grass.
13271El Fasher District. Country changes topark-like land—short grass dotted with trees.
El Fasher2273El Fasher village and fort. Water fromford.
Ford4277Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½ mile“karrab”; Abu Rokba grass.

17.—KHARTOUM NORTH to ABU DELEIG.

Compiled in Intelligence Office, Khartoum.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum, North——Railway terminus,&c. The road leads nearly due east, viâ tomb and wellof Haj Yusef (Batahin), about 80 feet deep, water good but notplentiful, to Bir Babekr, about 110 feet deep, water good andplentiful. Scattered salam and tundab bush. InhabitantsBatahin.
Bir Haj Yusef4½4½
Bir Babekr4½9
After leaving Babekr the road traversesbare level ground covered with scattered samr and selem trees.Hafir Medeisis, where Hassania Arabs live and extract salt duringthe rainy season, is passed, and later Hafir El Wadi, near which is a low stony hillnamed El Gaber. Near Kalamon are hafirs named Nuba and Um Denun,where also salt is extracted by the Hassania.
Bir Kalamon817Well 180 feet deep,water rather salt, but very plentiful. From here the direct roadpasses Hafir El Kheila, the country is flat and covered withscattered samr trees and homra and meharib grass. The road leads toa stony hill named J. Dura, after which the following tanks arepassed: Jan Kilwa, Um Gedodeima, and Gala Um Johanis, over whichthe road passes; beyond this is Wadi Safra, where Hassania Arabscultivate.
J. Dura1229
Wad Hassuna3059A village of mud houses and well of thisname; also the tomb of Sheikh Hassan Wad Hassuna, near which is alarge hafir called Ghobasha. Natives here Hassania, under SheikhHassan Meki. Country continues flat, and covered here and therewith kitr and samr trees, also homra and meharib grass; road isstony and several khors cross it.
Hafir Kabarus4½63½After Hafir Kabarus, three others by nameEl Biyut are past.
Hafir Amria770½A very large tank, J. El Sada, is passedto the south.
Bir Agab8½79Two wells, about 90 feet deep, water goodand plentiful. Mogharba, Hassania, Batahin and Ababda Arabs liveabout here. Several hafirs here, chief of which are Alatib andBalako. The latter lies 1½ miles south of the road, and is said tohave been dug by the “Kufr” or heathen.
Khor Jegjegi——After leaving Agabthe road soon runs alongside Khor Jegjegi, which it continues tofollow to Abu Deleig. Kittr, sayal, heglig, and samr trees borderthe khor, which some 8 to 10 miles further east joins Wadi Hawad.There are about 50 wells in the Abu Deleig district, 70 to 100 feetdeep, but in the rainy season water can be obtained from KhorJegjegi near the surface. At Abu Deleig all the natives live indom-mat tents, and here is the residence of Sheikh Mohammed Talha,head Sheikh of the Batahin, who are the principal inhabitants.There is a police officer and police post here.
Abu Deleig1089

18.—RUFAA to GEILI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, January, 1903.

There are at least three roads.

The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently included in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last water at Abu Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no water except in autumn.

The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is, and joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili.

The middle one was followed, and is described below.

No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to village. For the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab, through cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of road. Then through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round about.

Place.Hours.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.Inter-mediate.Total.
Rufaa————Track is good all the way; no steepgradients, difficult khors, nor thick bush. Probably bad afterrain.
Tunbul El Jaalin441212Good sized village of Jaalin, with well.There are two other villages close by called Tunbul El Agada andTunbul El Eishab. Cultivation all the way; many villages seen.
Abu Zeid, Wad Um Balli37921A poor village. Well 250 yards S.E.;village of Musaiab close by to N. Track continues mostly throughthin low laot bush, but some cultivation is passed. Some villageslie on right, but are not conspicuous. Passes village of UmHageir.
Um Shinshin, or Um Shinashin2¾9¾829Thin straggling village; well, on road;last water on road. On through low laot and grass, with very littlecultivation, passing the small village of El Gura; no well; lastvillage on road.
Um Ganatir——534Tank, a boundary point of Rufaa District,used to be a man’s depth, but now nearly filled up.
Mufad Wad Dereid——741Tank.
4½14¼142Road crosses a belt of laot giving goodfirewood; no more for two hours, though there are belts of kittr amile or two on each side. Geili just visible 29½° (true). JebelLebaitor just visible in early morning to S. On over grassy plain,apparently rising. Direction of road some degrees E. of Geili.
Wadi Mofad2¼16½6½48½Marked by a belt of thin kittr some 250yards wide. Must be boggy after rain. Two tanks on each side ofwadi. The place is called something like Rufa Wa Fagusa, Rufaapplying to one pair of tanks and Fagusa to the other, but I am notsure of the names, nor which applies to which.
The Wadi Mofad, I was assured, rises nearAbu Deleig, and flows S. The wadis of Bahogi and Ankia passed onthe Um Dibban—Geili road form part of it.
E. of the wadi the Tundub road joins in,and the united road makes straight for Jebel Geili.
2¼18¾6½55Road crosses a branch of Wadi Mofadcoming from the E. of Jebel Geili. Some kittr and other trees.Track begins to get stony, particularly as Jebel Geili isneared.
J. Geili2¼216½61½Wells at S. end of Jebel Geili close tothe carved rock.

19.—GEDAREF to KASSALA.

By Lieut.-Col. Mitford (1899) and Captain H. H. Morant (1900).

The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from Gedaref in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about 1¼ miles to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of a mile on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and high grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small hill is reached. The water supply of this village is from a well some 2½ or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent there, as very little water is obtainable at the village itself. There is a rest house here.

J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on the telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref, viâ Seraf El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally dry, joins in.

From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the country is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered bush is almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry season, and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid of any grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense bush, chiefly kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place at Mogatta is reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than that viâ Sofi.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedaref——The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref in aN.E. direction, passing down a valley between gardens, cultivationand high grass; several hamlets half a mile distant on either sideof road. A gentle ascent on N. side of valley to N.E. corner of alow flat hill called J. Buadra.
Khor Seraf El Buadra33This khor crosses the path near corner ofJ. Buadra. One well, upper portion stone faced; 24 feet deep, 5feet diameter, 4 feet of water. Two similar wells near track, one ½a mile, the other 1 mile further on. From this point track is a single camel path,winding among high grass or through bush; in places very stony.Ground on either flank cracked cotton soil.
25Top of pass is reached; the small hamletsof Um Shedra, Hissainad, and Turfur are seen in succession on theleft hand of the track.
2½7½A rise in the ground known as Gumerab isreached. On far side of it track descends sharply for 40 feet, overrocks and stones on to a plain. General direction E. by N. Somedukhn or dura patches; rest of the ground covered with high aadaand shush grass. 5 feet high.
4¼11¾A copse of talh trees is passed through.For the next 5 miles are scattered trees along the path, withcopses of hashab trees a few hundred yards to a mile on eitherside; shush, aada, naal and Umdenaib grasses.
4¾16½A shallow excavation to catch rain-wateris seen on left, 100 yards off. General direction E.N.E. At the24th and 27th miles, two more small rain-water reservoirs arepassed.
Khor Bitnasr15½32This khor is here crossed; it trendsnorthwards and runs into the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascendsslightly and is more broken, and track crosses several small khors.At the 34th mile the edge of the plateau is reached, and a sharpdescent of 90 feet ensues.
Sofi (Rest house)335A straggling village of a hundred men(Jaalin) on spurs running down to the Atbara 400 yards away. Atdate the river is easily fordable, the water not being knee deepand 20 yards broad near the village. From this point the track asfar as El Fasher follows the course of the river on the left bank,and distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The bush and jungle preventapproach from the track, except at the watering places in use. FromSofi the track winds up to the plateau in a N.W. direction alongand in khors. On reaching this plateau, after a mile, the trackbears generally due N. Quarter of a mile of dura cultivation ispassed through, then the path runs along the flat top of awatershed draining into the Atbara on the right, and into the KhorTomat on the left.
One and a half miles E. of the Atbara theSetit runs parallel with the river and the khor until its junctionwith the former. Going is now very bad, kittr, laot, talh and santclose to the path; cracked cotton soil. At the 43rd mile the trackdescends with twists and turns towards the river, and just beforereaching Khor Tomat some salt workings are passed through.
Khor Tomat (Rest house)9½44½The khor near its junction with the riveris 30 yards wide and 4 feet deep. It takes its name from a moundnear the khor with two knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly there wereseveral hamlets in the neighbourhood, but no traces exist.[11]The nearest hillet to the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just N. of thekhor. Easy access to water at date. Track winds over undulatingground intersected by khors, below the plateau 1 to 2 miles distantto the westward. Trees not quite so thick or close.
Khor Um Garra448½The Atbara is again reached here, about 1mile N. of its junction with the Setit, which brings down at thistime of the year more water than the Atbara, and appears to be abroader and finer stream.
Good watering place.
The path leaves the river in a N.W.direction over broken and undulating ground for 1 mile. The plateauis reached and again thick bush and trees are passed through. At 55miles J. Akelai is visible through a break in the trees, nearly dueE.
Khor Fatut11½60Track winds down to this khor, and thenfor 1½ miles passes over very broken ground. Track then improves;the country is not so closely wooded, and several open spaces aretraversed.
Mogatta (Rest house)1070No village; grazing and watering place ofthe nomad Arabs. The river is 12 miles from the track. Severallarge islands in the Atbara here, the water in the dry seasonpassing down by the left bank. Lions are plentiful here.
Here the direct road from Gedaref comesin. From this point the road improves considerably. Troops can moveon a broader front, and the soil, though still cotton, is not so cracked;the earth has a slightly red tinge. Occasionally belts of bush aretraversed. At the 92nd mile the track descends, and the groundbecomes very broken. The remains of an old Dervish post on a spurare seen 400 yards to right.
M. Khashm El Girba23½93½Track here meets the river; a tributary,or branch of the Atbara, comes in here on the opposite bank, withwater still in it. Broken country is again traversed, and manyknolls and khors are passed until the plateau is again reached.Trees are larger, and ground covered with gau grass, excellent forgrazing cattle and sheep.
Dervish earth work396½A square Dervish earthwork, each sideabout 80 yards long, is passed on right. This was the site of ElFasher village when it existed.
El Fasher ford (Rest house)4100½At date, river was 50 yards broad, 18inches deep at the most at the ford.
Bottom of bed consists of shingle.Quarter of a mile up stream on the right bank is the site of thepost held by a detachment from the Kassala garrison in 1898.
On leaving the ford, track leads up theascent to the plateau for 2 miles, and passes over very brokencountry intersected by khors. Then the path is excellent; largeopen spaces are divided by belts of trees. J. Kassala bearsE.N.E.
El Mellawiya22122½An open (now) grassy space, whererain-water collects and stands from July to October. Serut fliesbad at that season, also snakes. Attempts to make a well here haveso far been abortive.
Old well5127½An old government well is passed onright, now filled in. Country now becomes closer, and trees withbright green leaves become more numerous; track narrowsconsiderably[12] as the Khor El Gash is reached, though movementis possible between the trees on either flank. At the 135th mile,the minaret of the Khatmia is visible to the right, and soon thefactory chimney of Kassala is visible to the front.
Khor El Gash12½140The left bank of this khor is reached;600 to 700 yards broad.
Kassala½140½Old town and Egyptian fort, now inruins.

20.—GEDAREF to GALLABAT.

By Col. Collinson and Captain H. H. Morant, 1898.

(Corrected up to 1900.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedaref——From Gedaref the roadusually taken leads in a S.E. direction, and passes through muchcultivation to wells situated in a khor midway between the villagesof Dalasa and Gabeisha. From here the road continues to passthrough rain cultivation, which extends on both sides of the roadsmore or less continuously almost as far as the eye can reach until6 or 7 miles from Shasheina, after which only occasional patchesare seen.
Wells2¼2¼
Shasheina (Rest house)14¾17Several groups of tukls belonging toDebania and Takruris on western slope of a low ridge. Two goodwells with any amount of good water, roughly 30 to 40 feetdown.
724Leaving here the track skirts the bottomof the ridge and leads in a southerly direction over stony, badgoing for about 2 miles, when it bends to S.E. and passes over anopen plain to the E.; on the W. forest begins. The wells of Amzuaniand Galaat Eila are passed 2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of thetrack.
J. Doka is now visible right ahead.
The path here enters forest whichcontinues to Doka. The soil black cracked cotton soil and the pathis occasionally stony. Hashab, soffar and talh are the trees thatpredominate.
Doka (Rest house)2145A very wretched village that has seenbetter days. It used to be the residence of a mudir or importantofficial in the old government days. The remains of his palace,&c., are still standing. Two wells, very indifferent supply;generally dry in the middle of the day a few months after therains.
There is a path from here to Abu Guludand Sofi, also to Nogara. On leaving Doka several hills are passed,the principal being J. Doka 2 miles to the E., and Ajerawi orKajerawi to the W. About 4 miles from Doka the route from Asarjoins in from the right. This road is very little used, and ishardly noticeable. The track here becomes stony for a mile orso.
Khor Kefaia853Khor Kefaia, running W.
Khor Kanin3½56½Khor Kanin, also running W.
Seraf Said (Rest house)1066½Several small villages and two wells inthe khor of this name which is the boundary between Gedaref andGallabat. Wells 30 to 40 feet deep; fair supply. From here a roadgoes W. to Durraba[13] near the Rahad, and there is a track,made by honey hunters, to the Atbara, which is 13 or 14 mileseastwards.
For the first 2 miles after leaving thewells a good deal of dura and dukhn cultivation is passed through,and then forest with some quite fine trees begins and continues towithin a mile of Gallabat.
Khor Kuneina (Rest house)1581½The hills of Ras ElFil, where this khor originates, are passed 2 miles on the right.Up to January water is obtainable slowly from holes about 3 feetdeep in its bed. Later these become dry. Fine ardeib tree. Thickforest, chiefly talh and heglig, continues to Khor Otruk, wherewater stands in a pool all the year round. There are also wellsnear, from which several small villages obtain their water.
Khor Otruk788½
The road now ascends an easy slope forabout 2 miles, and hills are passed to the right and left. From thetop of this ascent Gallabat is visible, and ½ mile before reachingit a small khor with running water is crossed.
Gallabat4½93Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet abovethe town which lies at foot of slope about 400 yards E. Water fromstream, which constitutes boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards E. offort.
[There is an alternative routeviâ Asar. This is however very little used. It was takenby the two companies of Soudanese troops who first occupiedGallabat in December, 1898. It had been previously used a good dealby Dervish fugitives to and from Gedaref. The water supply alongthe Doka road is now better and is sufficient, if troops march atnight, without carrying any great amount of water:—
Gedaref——A rather stony trackin places leads across open country covered with high grass anddura to Asar. This is a Debania village and residence of their headSheikh, Wad Zaid, and is situated at the S.W. end of a ridge 300feet high and 1½ miles long, running nearly N. and S. Here thereare two good wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s force of 3,000 to4,000 men besides women, &c., for more than three weeks. A roadleads from here to Beila, also to Shasheina.
Asar1010
Leaving Asar, several deserted villageswere passed, and after traversing undulating open country for 8miles, talh and soffar forest commences.
Khor Tagala1525Water in holes inrocks by the road side. It has the usual stagnant rain-water tasteand smell, but is said to last all the year round. Large baobabclose to water. The track continues through forest with occasionalopen spaces to Khor Ardeiba.
Khor Ardeiba1540
A large khor running W. between hills.Water is found in several places in the rock on the side of thehill on left bank of khor. The supply was very scanty at beginningof December, and is not to be relied on.
J. Kajerawi1050For the first 3 or 4 miles after leavingthe bed of the khor the track ascends and descends several shortsteep slopes; trees interfere with the path, which is somewhatstony. It then crosses a fairly open cotton soil plain to astone-lined well about 60 feet deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi orAjerawi. As this well was not in regular use, the water tasted andsmelt, but there was plenty of it.
Four miles on the track joins in with themain road previously described, about 5 miles S. of Doka.]

21.—ABU HARAZ to GEDAREF.[14]

By Lieut.-Colonel B. R. Mitford, March, 1899.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Abu Haraz——Half of a mile N. of junction of R. Rahadand Blue Nile. Track leads through the village in an E. direction,and 4 miles over a plain covered with grass 4 feet high afterrains; then some bush is entered which necessitates reducing frontof the column to file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ miles distant onright flank, its banks covered with a belt of jungle. Trackconsists of four to six camel tracks over cotton soil.
Meshra El Hedeiba88Half a mile before reaching this meshra,the road bends to the S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village of Hedeiba,and 2 to 3 miles N.E. is the village of Shegeila. A singleflat-topped samr tree marks nearest point for water. A large poolof water always here during the dry season in the river bed. Trackpasses over grassy plain covered with the usual grasses met withalong the road, viz.: aada grass, which grows in wet places as highas 18 feet, and naal, from 1½ to 3 feet high.
Id El Maya2½10½A descent of ½ mile brings one to thiskhor skirted with trees; the hamlet of that name lies 2 miles fromthe river; a meshra and pool here in the dry season. The hamlet ofAmara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same country is traversed, with occasionalbelt of trees.
Khor Abu Seghira5½16Track passes this khor 1½ miles from themeshra, which is very difficult to find, owing to the jungle andthe creepers festooned from tree to tree. No pool there this dryseason.
Khoran El Homr218The “Red Khor,” of which there are three.The second one is 1½ miles on, and the third 1 mile further on.Each khor is thickly fringed with trees, bush, and high grass,after rains. The track is now some 3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At23½ miles another khor is crossed, and the ground rises into astony plateau.
H. Sherif Yagub6½24½Track passes to E. of this village.Inhabitants are Ashraf.
M. El Egeiga½25Camping ground is on a bluff 40 feetabove bed of river; a pool of water always here in the dry season.Natives say that in the winter months it is not a good campingground, as it is very feverish at night. Country now becomes muchmore close, trees and bushes narrow the track in many places, andin the autumn the high grass obscures all view to front orflanks.
M. Abuet El Messih530This meshra is only 100 yards from thetrack, but the river is somewhat hidden by the jungle. Veryunhealthy camping ground during the autumn and winter. Trackcontinues through bush, with occasional open spaces.
M. El Esheir333Good camping ground near track, 500 yardsfrom the river. Just after leaving this place, the Arang range canbe seen in clear weather. Track as before.
Ein El Lueiga740Watering place here, on the Rahad, in thedry season; not a good camping ground during or after rains, therebeing much fever. The track now leaves the vicinity of the Rahad,and for the first 5 miles trends towards the N.E. corner of theArang hills. The Kassala Province is entered here.
At the 48th mile a depression is passed,where a little water is sometimes found during the rains. Plaincovered with grass 1 to 10 feet high in October, which from thatmonth becomes broken down by the wind, and in March is only 2 feethigh. Track twists and turns considerably until the hills arereached.
Galaat Arang1858The track strikes these hills about 4 or5 miles from its S. end; bush is again entered, and track becomesvery stony and covered with fallen boulders from the hills.
The hills are mostly rock, covered withlaot, and stunted baobab or tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, bustard,guinea fowl, sand grouse, apes, and baboons in these hills. A mileon two pools of water are formed in a shallow rocky depressionduring rains, which is only fit for camels. Track follows the footof the hills towards the N., through bush and over stonyground.
El Fau (Rest house)967Track passes through a gorge in thehills, wherein are the wells of El Fau, near the E. mouth of thegorge. One well, stone faced, 10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep;surface of water 1 foot from top in October, 10 feet in March. Theother, stone faced, 5 feet in diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. Water,both good. There are several other wells in the vicinity duringrains, and pools of water in holes and depressions.
Track runs along the E. foot of the hillsto the N. point; bushy and stony.
North End Arang572Near the N.W. point of the Arang hills isH. Badad, or H. Sheikh Shah El Din; one well, now filled up.General direction of track is now N.E. To the S. is seen J. Fines,or Fenis, and to the S.E. is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very close;cotton soil.
J. Bayuda880Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, low,conical hill; some water in rocky holes during the rains. Track nowruns E. by S., and for the next 8 miles through thick bush; countrythen becomes more open and covered with grass again.
Ummat Rumeila (Rest house)1999A group of some five or six hills,averaging 80 to 100 feet high. Some water in pools and holes duringrains. The track passes in a N.E. direction through the hills;several patches of bush are traversed. At the 110th mile a narrowbelt of laot trees, 10 yards broad, commences to run alongside orin the middle of the track; this belt follows the road for 13miles.
Taras Wad El Fahl (Rest house)20119A small depression, wherein water liesduring rains. Two thorn bushes to S. of track mark it.
Khor Abu Hashim7126A descent leads to this very shallowkhor, and a similar rise takes place on its E. side. J. Tiwawa nowbecomes visible to the E. Track runs over a grassy plain with noteven a shrub on it.
Khor Abu Faraga11137Or Abu Fura. This khor rises nearGedaref, and at this point the track meets it; it here turns S. Thetrack runs parallel with it for a mile, 2 to 400 yards distant. Atthe 139th mile ground falls gently.
Um Gulgia3140A stony mound on left of the trackcontaining several deep holes, said to contain enough water for1,000 men and 500 camels during the rains.
Ground still falls gently, and a mile ona small khor is crossed; then ground ascends through smallscattered soffar trees. At the 143rd mile the houses of Gedaref arevisible. Track passes several hamlets on either side, and throughmuch cultivation and high aada grass, along S. side of J.Tiwawa.
Gedaref6146On top of a long gentle slope.

22.—GEDAREF viâ HAWATA to ABU HARAZ.

By Major Bulkeley-Johnson, November, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gedaref——Road leaves Gedaref from behind the oldbarracks, and takes a S.W. direction for 6 miles. Scatteredcultivation of every kind. A flat basin like that N. ofGedaref.
J. Wad Sennat4½4½Small hill 100 feet high and 500 yardslong, running N.W. and S.E., with small hella S. slope.
Abu Nagar1½6Tukl village. ½ mile right of road; oneof Abu Nagar group of five villages.
½6½Ditto on left of road.
½7Well 30 feet deep; water always, but only6 feet deep; watered 80 horses in 30 minutes.
½7½Hella ½ mile right of road. Road bends toS.W. by W.
1½9Cultivation ends. Road bad from smallbushes hidden in naal grass.
J. Matni1726J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 feethigh; stony and covered with habil trees. Woods round J. Matni(soffar and habil) to the E.
From J. Matni to Beila by direct road 2miles are saved. After J. Matni road branches to right, straight toBeila; left to Ghanem or Ganam (meaning water holes).
Ghanem329Small khor and 12 water holes about 8feet deep, and water 1 foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); probably dry byend of month (1901), rain having been slightly under average.
231Joins main road nearly at rightangles.
15½46½Small hill ¼ mile off the road. Roadafterwards curls in between it and Beila to two small hellas on farside.
Beila[15]½47Two small villages and two splendid wellscut in solid rock; any amount of beautiful clear water all the yearround[15], 50 feet deep; revetted at top; very goodgrasses here. From Beila a road now goes to Mafaya on the Rahad,which is much shorter than going to Hawata.
El Fereikh552Thirty tukls; inhabited all the yearroad; now water from holes dry in March, 1902.
J. Arid557Four water holes 6 inches deep, nearlyempty on arrival; when opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet muddywater. Nov. 17th watered 80 horses three times; dry in March,1902.
J. Gerein——Water nearly finished; 30 tukls inhabitedall year round.[16] Later on get water from Rahad, which ishere about 60 yards wide and water 4 feet deep in Nov. Bankssteep.
Hawata1875Very good camp. Fairly large villagehere.
Road follows the river, never more than 2miles from it, cutting off small bends. Single track; good throughlong grass; bad for guns as wheels or teams are going through thegrass. River approachable everywhere, and watering possible at alltimes of year.
Camps exceedingly good under shade ofsunt trees 30-40 feet high. Grasses in abundance and good, neghil,abu rokba and abu arid.
From Hawata track proceeds along rightbank and enters bush.
Wad Keriam2½77½Part of Hawata belonging to Abu Bakr;small hills; clearing and cultivation.
½78Ten tukls, ditto, ditto.
Bush and grass alternately; thick bush,inland kittr and talh.
886Grass plain. Bend of river meeting itagain at
Wad Kerein591Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, as doesall the country up to hella Sherif El Hindi.
Wad Mayim or Wad Balula293Same as Wad Kerein.
8101Road crosses to left bank. Ford on Nov.13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. 24th, 6 inches deep. There is no roadon E. bank, only thick bush. From here open grass plain, bushinland, ½ mile off river bends from road.
Between road and river a strip of country withbig red sunt trees 30-40 feet high and good grasses. The road nowstrikes khor—thickly wooded leading to lagoon running W. fromriver, which turns to S.W., road goes round it turning W. andafterwards S.
7108Head of lagoon.
Muttu½108½Road branches to right of hella—Hawata(Arabs) 1½ miles off—300 yards from river in open bush.
1½110Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile of thickbush, kitr and talh.
1111Khor (dry).
2113Big khor, nearly dry—very difficultduring rains and up to Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. 27th.
2½115½Small road to right, leading to big khorthickly wooded, water 4 feet deep or lagoon.
1½117Khor (dry).
2½119½Ditto leading to meshra.
Road alternately bush and grass.
6½126Road branches to meshra.
6132Approaches meshra, 200 yards.
11143Deserted village, 100 yards left ofroad.
Road very good, broad and hard.
3146Cross road from Rahad to Dinder.
10156Ditto to Blue Nile.
1157Road from meshra to hella, inland 2miles.
4161Opposite to Ein El Lueiga.
3164Road branches to right towards river—leftto Sherif El Hindi.
Aruth Rutha2166Road to Hella Aruth.
Hafeira2½168Hella; Arab encampment; flocks andherds.
Wad Rekeih1½170Hella, 100 yards right of road.
Sherif2172Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi.
4½176½Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. Roadcrosses river.
Abu Haraz24½201(Afterwards see map).
[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, 1901;only a slight trickle on 29th.]

23.—SOFI viâ ABU GULUD to SERAF SAID.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Sofi——Road goes down into khor and then windingthrough bushes and water courses follows crest of ridge betweenAtbara and Khor Gurri, then turns E. towards Kreder.
Kreder66A village of about 100 huts on spur aboveriver, and not as shown on old maps.
Sherif Ibrahim915There is no road now; I went acrosscountry, crossing ravines bordering Atbara, camels followed edge ofplateau about 5 hours’ march from Sofi. No village, only tombs offormer inhabitants. Path leads from village to Meshra onAtbara.
Dabuli1227Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W. direction,and after 1 hour struck old path from Sofi; followed this, andafter 2 hours came on cultivation. A big khor runs in N.E.direction towards Atbara. There are old wells here and site ofvillage. New wells are being opened.
Goreisha1542Road now crosses khor above mentionedtwice, and after 2 hours J. Tomborgu is passed on the right. Fromhere road crosses three big khors, and in the next Khor J. Omrad,then cultivation of Goreisha is reached on left of road. Right side, thickbush. Another hour and Goreisha is reached; two villages with goodwells and cultivation in khor.
Abu Gulud446Road now crosses and recrosses this khor,which runs from Abu Gulud; after half an hour village of Salama ispassed on khor on right, and after half hour arrive at Abu Gulud.Two villages; wells and cultivation. From here a track goes toDoka.
Zemalat2066Road leaves here in S.W. direction; about1 mile Agala, a large village, is passed; about 4 miles on a rockyridge; ditto about 8 miles; about 10 miles village Lubaina. Fewhuts here. People only here for cultivation; water from Zemalatvillage on crest or ridge. Water from holes in khor below village,about 1 mile away. From here a good view of hills near Doka and J.Nahut, J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil obtainable.
Seraf Said1076Road now descends from ridge, cotton soiland bad going; about 6 miles out J. Meriod is passed on right oftrack—village round other side of hill. Direct track leads off toright to village; bad going cotton soil. Rocky water hole in MeriodKhor not used now; about 10th mile cross Seraf Khor.
Two wells with water-tracks lead fromhere to Gallabat and Duraba, and the road from Doka joinshere.

24.—FAMAKA to ABU RAMLA.

By Major C. W. Gwynn.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Abrunga——The direct route is up the khor throughthe Samina group. Very little water among these hills and none onthe road.
Belitamaru1414About 1 mile north of the village andBelitamaru there are hills giving a little bed water in the KhorGodaff.
Matongwe1125Matongwe is a small Gumz village amongthe rocks on the side and top of J. Matongwe. Good well at the footof the mountain. The mountain is a very striking needle of rockjutting straight out of the plain.
J. Abu Ramla1237No more water isfound till J. Abu Ramla is reached, and even there it can only beobtained in any quantity from the Khor Ramla at north-east end ofmountain. There are holes in the rock on the hill side, however,which supply the villages with drinking water.
Mek’s Village340
Another route can be taken fromFamaka along the Nile to Hoburra, and thence to Belitamaru throughAbrunga, but the first portion of the road along the river is verybad.

25.—KARKOJ to HAWATA.

By Mr. E. Bonham Carter, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Karkoj——R. bank Blue Nile.
Kamrab1818From Karkoj, a narrow but well definedtrack leads through bush, thick in places, to the village ofKamrab, half a mile beyond which is a well and trees givingexcellent shade.
Abu Hashim4½22½The R. Dinder is reached at Abu Hashim(Sheikh El Amin), a village on the left bank. The Dinder 100 yardswide was dry here (March, 1902), but there were water holes in itsbed.
Meshra Deberki12½35The road here crosses the Dinder andfollows the river to Meshra Deberki. River dry here, and about 100yards wide, but water holes in bed, and there is a large pool about¼ mile up the river. No village here. Little shade at Meshra, butplenty ½ mile further up the river.
The track here leaves the river, andafter crossing an open piece passes through thick bush for 2 miles,after which an open grassy plain with scattered bush extends forsome distance.
The track is merely a single donkey trackover deeply cracked cotton soil, and is bad going.
Khor Atshan1752Khor Atshan is crossed; a shallow khordraining into the Dinder.
River Rahad1668Track continues same with occasional bushto the Rahad; a few tukls here. Rahad in pools.
Hawata371Three miles on down stream, Hawata isreached on the right bank. Here there is a pool a ¼ mile long. Finesunt trees.

26.—ROSEIRES to ABU SHANEINA by RIGHT BANK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, R.E., 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Roseires——Mamuria, about 50 feet above the river onone of the steep spurs, which form the escarpment between thegeneral level of the country and the lower river bank. For thefirst 2 miles the road winds round these spurs close to the river.The road hilly. Then leaving the river it gets into flat countrywith thick thorn bush.
2¾2¾Path leads to El Damazin, a small villageon the river (not visited).
Abu Zago2¾5½Village lies to the east of the road andN. of the khor (not visited).
Khor Abu Zagoli16½A well defined channel 20 yards wide,banks 10 feet high, and steep. Halting place for water 200 yards S.of the khor. Water from the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation at themouth of the khor. Shelter tukls at halting place.
El Kharaba39½Three ways lead to the village which liesE. of the road not visited. Recognised camping ground, muchovergrown with trees and little clear space. No tukls, ¼ mile towater. From here to about the 15th mile the river is inaccessible,country flat, road good. At 15 miles it approaches the river on ahigh bluff, and Dakhila can be seen. Thence road descends and wouldin the wet season be very swampy. Thick jungle.
Dakhila8½18Small village of about 30 tukls. Liesvery low and has all the appearance of being feverish.
Water supply in the dry season from amuddy pool in a dried up channel, bad.
From Dakhila the road runs W. followingthe river, passing the spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd mile,road hilly and stony. After passing Maba, country is moreopen.
Khor Abu Ge725Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep.
Khor Aiwani½25½100 yards wide, thickly wooded, slopeseasy.
Khor Yabis½26A well defined channel 20 yards wide,river within easy reach between Khor Aiwani and Khor Yabis.
Khor Yare1½27½A well defined channel 10 yardswide.
Abu Gemai1½29Rest tukls on high bank commanding a fineview of the river. Very good camping ground for small party. Waterclose, but road to it steep. Village of Abu Gemai on opposite bank,considerable cultivation. J. Fazogli visible.
After Abu Gemai the road leaves theriver, and water is not obtainable for some way.
Khor Zarifa433Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to risein J. Dimr, but more probably in J. Samina. Forms boundary betweenFazogli and Roseires.
Khor Abu Gerin4½37½15 yards wide, sandy. About 1 mile, and 2miles further on are two small khors and dom palms begin.
Ardeiba340½Recognised halting place, but tukls burntdown. Water 200 yards distant. River narrows to about 150 yards,river bank consisting of shingle cliffs. Village of Ardeibaopposite scattered tukls with little cultivation.
Khor El Masella1½42Wide valley ½ mile, well defined channelin middle.
Khor El Ghana2¼44¼Road to Famaka goes straight on, that toAbu Shaneina turns down the bed of the khor and leads to the ferry.Very rough stony foreshore.
Abu Shaneina Ferry¾45One boat capable of taking horses.Crossing about 300 yards. Village consists of scattered tukls amongcultivation. Starting place for most of the caravans to BeniShangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage (native) obtainable, also sheepand dura. A few donkeys.

27.—SENGA viâ DURRABA to UM EL RUG.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Mena——Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue Nile,Sheikh Adlan, descendant of Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs andHawazma. Broad well, defined track, good going.
Lueisa (on Dinder)15½15½Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada, and someAshraf. At Lueisa also lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh ofDinder.
Track keeps away from river to cut offbends, direction about S.E. Cultivation near village.
Um Saba7½23Jungle closes in on both sides trackafter Kakum.
Khamisa4½27½Track well defined,soon after Khamisa enters bed of river, and comes out again sameside. Cultivation at villages, dura and semsem.
Abu Hashim7½35
El Hagar——
Murafa7½42½Most of villages on Dinder are nearpools, some have to dig for water in river bed.
Wad Bashush2½45Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck,&c.
Durraba7½52½Last inhabited place on Dinder.
Meshra Sherif860½Large pool.
„ Rekeba——Path less clearlydefined; black cotton soil, badly cracked; shadeless; tracks anddroppings of elephants abundant from Duraba whole way up Dinder.After this see no more people on Dinder.
„ Abgir5½66
Koka——
El Laban——
Refadik12½78½All places from Durraba onwards are onlywater pools, but were mostly hellets in old government days. Wateron Dinder excellent throughout, pools more frequent higher upriver.
Wad El Haj1189½After Refadik country looks moreinteresting, and good deal of game seen, ariel plentiful, freshelephant and buffalo tracks. From here a track made by game cutsacross large bend of river for about 2 miles. The only means ofprogress for hamla after this is in bed of river. Sand heavy, butsuits the camels well.
Meshra Gazar594½
Khor Gelagu10½105
„ Masawik1½106½
Beit El Wahesh——
El Dueim7113½
Semsir2½116Name applies to district around.
Um Bilbis13129
Um El Rug4½133½In this neighbourhood game is plentiful,such as elephant, buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang, ariel reedbuck,ostrich, warthog, &c. There are also heglig, talh, kittr,hashab, sunt, kakamot and suba trees. Forests much damaged byjungle fires all along Dinder.

28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) to GALLABAT.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Durraba.
Khor Gelagu—53½A tributary on R. bank of Dinder, 53½miles above Durraba.
Farsh El Ghani——Track (made by game)keeps away from Gelagu on R. bank, going pretty good; woods (notdense) alternating with large open plains, covered with high grass,called farshes. Ras Amer is a long shallow lake, the west end about1 mile from Gelagu (which winds very much), at this time (March) 2miles long E. and W. by 150 to 300 yards broad. East end about 2½miles from Gelagu. Open plains; either end of lake swarming withgame, water of lake very thick and slimy, with fishy taste owing tomillions of pelicans, geese, &c. Gave several of our men sorethroats.
„ „ Sanei——
Maya Ras Amer (west end of)659½
Camp7½67Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on road),badly cracked cotton soil, yellow reed grass and sparsely scatteredtrees, but no obstacle to hamla marching in any direction acrosscountry, provided a couple of men go in front with axes to lop offbranches.
Warre10½77½Strike Rahad atWarre, which like all places mentioned here on the Rahad, used tobe flourishing hella in old government days, but now absolutelydeserted, and nothing to show that human beings have ever beenthere.
Wad Dam2½80
Wad Shusha2½82½River winds very much going alternatelyin every direction of compass, but doubtful if any time saved bymarching through jungle on either bank-bed 50 to 80 yardswide.
Araki688½All these places are on good pools.
Deleib Mugda492½ „ „ „
El Ebeik496½ „ „ „
Wad Arud5101½ „ „ „
Um Dakin2½104 „ „ „
Bed of river begins to be rocky in placesand going rough and bad for loaded camels; pools more numerous, notover 40 yards wide in most places.
Mukleil5109After here, better to march on R. bank,river bed stony.
Meshra Abid12121Soon after M. Abid leave river and strikeN.E. for Gallabat, soon strike on to track which goes from Gallabatto Hawata made by government last year. This road was made chieflyto enable cattle owners to take their cattle down Rahad, but theyall prefer to go viâ Gedaref because of the lions. Theroad is used to a small extent by honey seekers from Gallabat.Cotton soil badly cracked.
Babikr28½149½No water till Babikr-hella; consists ofseveral small groups of huts, cultivation, dukhn, semsem, cotton,dura. Inhabitants Takruris, Fors, Gunjara, &c. Country beginsto be more undulating, red sandstone, alternating with bad cottonsoil till Gallabat, stony in parts, bad going for camels.
Yunes——Village; well.
Basunda6½156 „ „
Kurunkula——
Wallak14170Sheikh of Gallabat and of thesevillages—El Sheikh Sheraf Abdalla. Well.
Khor Otruk9179Water in pool in khor.
Gallabat5½184½

29.—GALLABAT to WAD MEDANI, viâ RIVER RAHAD.[17]

By Captain C. H. Lewin, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gallabat——Route follows that to Gedaref as far asKhor Otruk.
Khor Otruk66Road here diverges toW., crossing Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor to right of trackunder large ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up valley through somecultivation passing village of Sultan.
Khor Yabis½6½
Sultan½7Well in course of construction. Water notyet (March, 1902) found at 30 feet, but said to be near.
Road winds on through forest, up valley,high wooded hills on either side, crosses spurs and khors. Owing toloose stones and steep gradients, camels can only do 2½ miles anhour.
Ras El Fil310Track passes over low pass close underthis hill, which is highest point of N. ridge, and descendsgradually to
Wallak2½12½Wallak, a scattered village of Kunjaras,one well 40 feet, fair water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of cotton,and fair amount of other cultivation. Road proceeds over more leveland open country, red gravel soil, and rises to a neck just S. ofKabushi.
Jebel Kabushi113½A conical grasscovered hill. Path descends sharply to water in hollow to right oftrack, but nearly empty by middle of March.
Water114½
Karnakala½15Village of Kunjaras. About 12 acres ofcotton and considerable amount of other cultivation. Two wells inkhor just under village, water at 6 feet good and plentiful. Rakubaby wells under ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru said he was asoldier with Gordon Pasha.
Track passes through village, turning S.just outside for a short distance.
Going not too good, stony, and as path isonly used by donkeys, is narrow for camels, who stumble a gooddeal.
Khor Abu Jamfa318Open khor; small amount of water inholes.
Kuka220Village of Kunjaras. Water comes out ofrock at bottom of deep rocky khor, which is overhung by largetebeldi tree of about 10 feet diameter. Road winds S. and then W.again, passing villages of Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mileinterval. These draw their water from a deep rocky khor half waybetween Kuka and Basunda. Good rakubas at all of them.
Babikr626Going improves as this village isreached. Road still winds through forest country. Very little waterleft in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh describes this as half-waybetween Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to S.W. and going becomesvery bad again. Cotton soil, which gives under camels as they goalong. Track very indistinct in places.
Domajura935Road winds between 2 stony low hills ofthis name. On W. side a well dug in the rock said to have been madeby Sheik Saleh Bey, formerly of Gallabat. No water now, and a badsmell emanates from it.
Hag Bakhit338Track passes over low rocky column ofthis name. One mile N.W. is ruined Deim of brother of Saleh Bey. Itlies on top of hill named Zurga.
Meshra Sirri or Abid (?)947Track gradually descends to River Rahadpassing a few stony hillocks. Bad going, over cotton soil all theway. Meshra 2 miles N. of steep rocky hill Jebel Surur.
Good camping ground in zeriba. A certainnumber of nomad inhabitants who come down to fish appear to makethis a halting place. Water clear, good, and pool deep. Swarms withfish and crocodile, and from tracks appear to be favourite wateringplace of much game, including elephant and lion.
From Babikr there cannot be said to beany defined track. The way is shown by blazed trees and stumps oftrees cut down by clearing party. The whole way practically is badgoing, both for camels and donkeys, owing to rotten black cottonsoil. Camels go at a slow walk only. From Kuka onwards the route iswaterless, but there are plenty of likely looking places wherewater might be found if wells were dug.
From Meshra Sirri, route runs roughlyN.W. along right bank of Rahad, it is marked by blazed trees hereand there. At times going very bad over cotton soil. Camels getalong with difficulty at slow walk. Sometimes going is good, butonly for short time.
Meshra Kakamut11¾58¾Plenty of water in pool; good shade;zeriba; banks very steep down to water and difficult forcamels.
Meshra Myat Bringi1½60¼Track rises on to a broad low bank byriverside, which is evidently an island when river is inflood.
Meshra Ghaba Susa2¼62½Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, smallamount, and very green.
Bendego2¾65¼Zeriba and meshra. Banks very steep downto water. Quarter mile further on the track passes group of 11 verylarge tebeldi trees, one of which has diameter 21 feet.
Meshra tebeldi6½71¾Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, water ¼mile up stream, very steep bank and not much shade.
Meshra Sangafut374¾Sangafut, an island in stream when riveris in flood. Pool ¼ mile up stream. Banks steep down to pool. Goodshade just above. Meshra not at all apparent from road. Zeriba canbe seen from road, is built on the bank and is half way betweenwater and island of Sangafut. Water plentiful.
Between this and Ghaba Susa track passesacross several shallow khors but no water in them.
Meshra Deresa7½82¼Half a mile from meshra, and zeriba trackstrikes river at spot where broad belt of long grass intervenesbetween it and river bed. Follows curve of river round on highground to zeriba, which is at a spot on the curve where the riveris running from N.E. to S.W. Very steep path down to waterimmediately to W. end of zeriba, which was impossible for camels,but one just possible ¼ mile E. of zeriba. Water plentiful in pooland good. From here on trees decrease in size and become lessdense. Guide said this was formerly a large village and a battalionwas stationed here, which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 or 40 yearsago. The place was destroyed by Dervishes. The town was ½ mile N.W.of meshra and zeriba. Several lions heard here.
Wad Betul2½84¾Meshra, no zeriba, road immediately abovestream, and country much more open here. From here blazing of treesis discontinued, and direction has to be kept (1902) by compass andstream. Rate of progress cannot be reckoned at more than 2 milesper hour.
Khor Semsem7½92¼Broad shelving grass-grown khor runningin direction from N.E. to S.W. runs into river here. Bad meshrajust N.W. of it, little shade, and very steep banks. Water green.1½ miles from Semsem the river bed widens and becomes muddy—untilnow it has always been sandy—very good grass grows on the part fromwhich water has receded.
Island (name unknown)395¼River doubles back and runs nearly S.E.and flows round an island. Track follows several broad and verygrassy and bushy khors which caused wide détours.
2¼97½Good spot for camp immediately above alarge pool. Banks steep and thickly wooded, though immediate siteof camp clear.
The island seems to come to an end about¼ mile further down stream. From here the track becomes plainagain, the tree felling and blazing is regular and systematical,and easily followed. Going improves and camels can occasionallytrot. Country becomes more open and track crosses several shallowkhors.
Meshra Abrakuba6103½Track strikes river at a broad re-entrantbend. Plentiful supply of water and gently shelving banks easy forany animals to water. Good camping and grazing ground by theriver.
Shammam——A small tukl village of Dinka colonists.Sheikh Dik Malek. Is situated to left of track on rising groundamong trees above river. Dura cultivation shows its presence atsome distance from the track, from which it is itself invisible.Poor supplies; a little dura was obtained after some difficulty.Water good and plentiful.
From here track bends inland from rivercrossing the shallow khors of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track isindistinct and hard to follow owing to clearing having been done inmost erratic fashion. Camels have to proceed at a walk. After 7½miles track, strikes the river again, which is dry here, and isrunning round a large island, Geziret Fatna. Two miles further oncomes
Meshra Geziret Fatna9½119A large shallow pool rapidly drying up.Track runs along this pool for about 1 mile over rough going wherethe two branches of the river round Geziret Fatna re-unite andtrack strikes N. and then trends round to river again, striking itat Wad El Kashedi.
Wad El Kashedi2½121½A good pool, but banks steep, looks as ifan old canal formerly ran into river from W. Jebel Mogadad appearsin distance in E. direction. Going still bad. Cotton soil, butfewer trees.
Track follows close to river bank, wateroccasionally in pools, but banks steep. Two miles from Hawata trackimproves and enters belt of trees through which it is well cleared.Some cultivation about in cleared patches.
Hawata7½129Fair-sized tukl village of Hamadas. Fairsupplies and good pool of water immediately beside village. Trackfrom here improves greatly. It is well cleared and camels can trot.The journey from Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of 4 out of 5camels so badly that they were unable to proceed further. BetweenMeshra Sirri and Hawata game very plentiful. Numerous tracks ofelephants; lions were heard each night. Giraffe seen twice. Arielfrequently seen in enormous herds of over 100. North of Hawata nomore lions or elephants, and ariel became scarce. I saw nativescoursing gazelle, and they say they hunt a good deal.
Girbu2131From Hawata, track winds through treesand long grass to small tukl village on river bank with somescattered tukls further on. Country opens out into large grassplains dotted with bushes and clumps of trees.
Nuwar8139A small tukl village to left of tracksome way back from river. Jebel Beila at right angles to track,N.E.
Wadi Nagami3142A new tukl village of Hamadas rapidlyspringing up. Over 30 tukls already built. People said to bereturning from khors and jebels round. A few sheep, no camels.
Mafasa1143Another rapidlyincreasing village of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls shown. There arenow over 30 new ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no camels. About ¼mile from river. A little dura cultivated. From here, track passesthrough grass plains and trees for 3 miles, and then gets intothick bush country for another 3 miles, rising slowly the wholetime till it suddenly emerges on top of cleared, broken, andhillocky ground, from which it descends sharply into and crossesthe river bed which is dry here. After crossing the river trackturns S.W. following round S. edge of a dry shallow branch of theriver, which is lined thickly on either bank by good-sized treesthrough which path winds and gradually works round to N.E.direction.
Abraham6149
Muttu5154Meshra and various shifting tuklvillages, some inhabited, some deserted. People appear to come hereto build tukls before the rains begin, sow and reap dura on openspaces between the trees, and then move on. From here track is welldefined though crossed by numerous other tracks. Trees, except onimmediate river bank, cease.
Karakeila¾154¾Meshra, track to it branches off toright.
Abbas4½159¼Meshra, invisible from the path. Goodpool and shade; from this, track resumes N.W. direction.
Bir el Gamal16¾176Road forks here into an eye shape. Goodmeshra and distinct road down to it. It is under high trees whichshow on N. side of track on river bank about ¼ mile off.
Ghabat4½180½Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. JebelArang is sighted bearing N.E.
5185½A track turns off N.E. to Jebel Arang,and one bears to left running direct to Hafar. Main track leads onto Meshra Kheiari.
Meshra Kheiari6½192A good meshra with fair shade. Meshra ElGelma at 191½ mile found dry. Large numbers of camels about heregrazing. From here, track to Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runsnearly due W. on leaving the river, trees and shrubs soon cease andcotton soil plain is crossed to Kheiari a deserted village of about40 tukls; a deep well of about 6 feet diameter has been dug, but isnow dry. Track continues W. over plain, ground rising slightly toHafar.
Hafeira4½196½Large tukl village over 100 tukls allwell built. Inhabited by different tribes: Jaalin (few) Hawazma,Rufaa. One well supplies whole village, 72 feet deep and about 6feet wide, very good water in it. Said never to run dry. Few cattleand sheep and other supplies. Like all other places between thisand Gedaref it was laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his march to jointhe Khalifa.
From Hafar track runs W. over cottonsoil, is clearly marked. Clumps of trees and bushes in places.
Shebaga14210½Small tukl village, few inhabitants.
Alarebab9219½Track strikes BlueNile about 1 mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani. Ferryacross to left bank.
Wad Medani½220

30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM to FAZOGLI.

By Captain H. F. S. Amery, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum——Up to Soba, cultivation good on bothbanks, though confined to a narrow strip—Sakias numerous.
Buri33L.
Kuku1½4½R.
El Gereif26½Island here at low Nile.
Karkoj1¼7¾R.
Um Dom Island29¾½ mile above the island are the hillas ofUm Dom R. and El Hagirat L.
Soba413¾On the R. are the ruins of the capital ofthe once flourishing kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small village.Soba is the name of the district on both sides of the river, andcontinues to Soba El Taib a village 3 miles further S. on the R.bank.
Butri417¾Two villages of this name L. the other is1 mile further N. From here on for many miles the character of thecountry does not change. The eastern bank is covered with thick,low thorn jungle, while the western bank is open and sandy, verylittle scrub and half grass. There are patches of cultivation roundthe villages, and when the water falls, a narrow strip by theforeshore of the river is cultivated with heavy crops of dura,lubia, sesame, melons, and vegetables. Some of the islands also areunder cultivation.
Eilafun320¾Wood station and village L., a trackleads from here to Geili about 75 miles. About ¼ mile inland on theL. is the Government rest house of Sabil.
Dueikhla1½22¼R.
Bageir¼22½L.
Bageir Sharg2½25R.
Bageir126L. Another small village of the samename.
El Shereig228R.
El Gedid1½29½L. First of three villages of same nameextending for 1½ miles S. Cultivation round the villages.
Awag El Darb3¼32¾L. Between here and Masadia, a shortdistance inland on R. bank is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.
Masadia2½35¼L.
El Nuba2½37¾L. Largish village ½ mile fromriver.
Mahas Island, N. end¾38½
Mahas, S. end2¼40¾
Maid141¾Large village L. with Rest house on riverbank and large mosque.
Alti1½43¾L.
El Nur144¼L.
Um Magad3¾48L.
El Tikena250
Bishagra Island1½51½Villages L. and R. The one on L. largewith three mosques. Former Dervish depôt and powder factory.
Fogur152½L. Small village.
Eidag1¼53¾R.
Takela¾54½L.
Sayal½55R.
Wad El Turabi358L.
Wad Esheib1½59½R.
Belula Kasembar¾60¼L.
Kalkol1¾64½L. Opposite S. end of island of samename.
Kamlin2½64½L. Head quarters of the Blue NileProvince, a large and growing village with market place, post andtelegraph offices, and a good rest house in a grove of date palmsat N. end of village. Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. Morecultivation from here S. Country also much more wooded. Resthouse.
Metemma1½66R. 1 mile inland. The road on the R. bankto Rufaa goes inland viâ the villages of Metemma, Brankoand Deim.
Hamed El Nil5½71½
Branko½72Some way inland R.
Um Degersi½72½L. Two villages close together.
Abd El Magdi173½L.
Helalia275½R. Large village.
Abu El Ashr1½77L. Helawin district commences here.
Bueida Island3½100½
Hegeir3103½R.
Wad Abu Furur3½107L. Large village with Government Resthouse. R. bank wooded.
Hassa Hisa4¾111¾L. Commonly called Hassai, largishvillage, the direction of the river after this is N.E. to Rufaa.Hassai and Rufaa being at the points of the curves of the S. knownas the Rufaa bend. Rest house.
Rufa’a5116¾R. Wood station. Former grain stores. AliWad Abu Sin, and Wakil el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab L. Rufa’ais said to be the second largest town on the Blue Nile. It standssome little way back from the river, and is a fairly populousplace. Its inhabitants are a branch of the Shukria tribe of Arabs,and call themselves Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are raised on theforeshore and islands in the vicinity, and melons are cultivated,upon an extensive scale on the flats up-stream of the town. Theriver here is very wide and shallow, and navigation in summer isextremely difficult.
Amara2118¾
Abid1119¾L.
Ereibab4122¼R. About 1½ miles inland.
Wad Belal4½126¾L.
Fadassi4130¾L. Large village and Rest house. Goodgarden on river bank belonging to Omda of village.
Fadassi Amrab2132¾L.
Tayiba3135¾L.
Hamid El Nil1½137¼R.
Abu Haraz1½138¾Starting place of caravan road toGedaref.
Abu Ushur¾139½R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water differslittle from that of Blue Nile; rather more vegetable organicmatter. Jungle begins both banks. This river, which rises in theN.W. slopes of the Abyssinian mountains, brings down a large volumeof water when in flood. It enters the Nile at an angle of 70°, andits bed in February was 3 feet higher than the water surface of theBlue Nile at that time. The Rahad, with the exception of a fewpools, is dry for many months of the year. Its banks at thejunction are steep and high, quite 39 feet over the bed, which hasa width of 71 yards. The flood-marks show that the rise of theRahad is from 15 to 19 feet in height. The Blue Nile at thisjunction forms an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend to the W., andagain another to the E. Its width, is measured, 595 yards. Thebanks of the Rahad River are covered with thick and dense jungle,as are both banks of the Blue Nile in this reach. Shortly beforeWad Medani is reached, the W. bank becomes open again, but theforest on the E. bank is continuous.
Wad Medani5144½L. Large and flourishing town, largest inSudan after Omdurman. Head quarters of Sennar Province. Post andtelegraph offices. A few European shops and good market. Civilpopulation about 30,000. Soil limestone with sand andgravel—healthy; Mosque with high tower. Country S. of Wad Medanibecomes thick jungle especially on E. bank.
From Wad Medani the shortest road toSennar leaves the river and goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan,&c., meeting the river again at Danagila.
Goz El Fil5149½On island.
Ereibab1150½
Kurdugeili5155½
Ganneb6½162L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank isShabarga, the nearest point to R. Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7miles across.
Bagadi2164L. Large village.
Abd El Karim6½170½R.
H. Sherif Desis Yusef1¼171¾L. Rest house.
Doliba1¾173½L.
El Beriab4½178L. Large village on river bank in openground. Supplies plentiful.
Mouth of River Dinder2180Larger and more important river thanRahad. Breadth at mouth 120 yards (see [page 114,] Vol. I).
Hamed6186L. Three miles inland is the largevillage of Shukaba.
Abu Sogra6¾192¾L.
Danagila5½198¼L. Distant from Wad Medani by direct road31½ miles. Rest house.
Santobar2200¼L.
Banat2202¼L.
Barsi El Fadl2¼204½R.
Wad El Dai3207½L.
Wad El Haddad½208L.
Wad El Abbas6½214½R. Rest house.
Meshra El Hagirat5219½L. Rest house.
Habbania1220½L.
Shambata5225½R.
Deim El Mashaikh5½231L.
Sharif1½232½R.
Sennar2½235L. Now in ruins and deserted, old mosquewith high tower still standing. Vide [Vol. I.] Rest house at Kabush.
Abu Geili——
Kassab El Amin9244R. Opposite large island.
Shekh Talha6½250½R. Rest house.
Ereidiba2252½R.
Ereidiba2½255L. About 2 miles inland—largevillage.
Abdin4259L. Rest house.
Abu Shoka3262
Dakhla Shellal7269L.
Rammash8277L.
Mena Yusef6283R.
Wad El Ghazali2285L.
Senga2287L. Headquarters of a District andDetachment of Regular Troops here. Rest house.
Mena1288R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the sheikhAdlan is the descendant of the Fung sultans of Sennar. From here adirect road goes to Lueisa on the R. Dinder, distance about 16miles.
El Gazair6½294½R.
Brodras7½302R.
Karkoj5307R. Rest house. A large stragglingvillage, surrounded by bush and tall grass. It is close to theriver, the banks of which are steep. Inhabitants very poor and ofvarious tribes:—Kongeri, Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin andAgalin. Village on high ground, with small khors at intervalsrunning into the river. Soil, limestone mixed with sand andalluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet from surface. Three small springs ofclear water appear at south end of village, and reach the surfaceof the steep bank 9 feet from the top. On the L. bank in Nov. thereis a large stagnant lagoon, which probably increases theunhealthiness of the site.
One hundred and ten hours by steam fromKhartoum.
Karkoj used to be an important tradingcentre in the old days for gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, cotton,coffee (from Abyssinia), vegetables, &c. This used to be thelast place where one could lay in stores for further travel.
The river here is at high Nile 470 yardsbroad, average depth 23 feet, current 5 miles per hour; at low Nilethe figures are 330 yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles respectively.
Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly acacia,&c., begin at some distance off.
(Marno took 25 days in a nugger from Khartoumto this point, in February.)
The Upper Sennar negro race, the Hameg,now begin to populate both banks; a dirty, indolent race.
From Karkoj upwards both banks are highlycultivated and fertile, but only on the narrow strip which isliable to inundation at flood time. Camels become graduallyreplaced by donkeys and oxen. Too damp for horses; many mosquitosand poisonous flies (serút). Much rough cloth woven.
Track on R. bank lies through cultivationand occasional thick woods.
Seiru3310L. Rest house.
Zumorka6316R.
Lanni1317L.
Abu Tiga10½327½R. On main track from Karkoj to Roseires.Rest house.
Barankwa½328L. Swarms of birds in autumn. Waterchannel 700 yards.
Abu Naama1½329½L. Rather less vegetation; soil containsmuch iron peroxide. Reported immune from fever. Rest house.
Rumeila3332½L.
Tangaru1½334L. El Lakandi R.
Regeiba6340L. Rest house.
Bunzoga8½348½R. Boat building yard (?). Two milesbefore this the Khor El Malwai comes on L., and a track goes fromthere to J. Gule. Rest house.
H. Sherif Ahmed24372½R. Well-known point on river. Cultivationconsiderable.
Bados11383½R. Rest house.
El Gereif7390½R. Village up a back-water. Broadconspicuous belt of dom palms begins, and continues along ridge toRoseires. Rest house.
El Karori2½393R. On L. is mouth of Khor Dunia.
Abu Ramad9402L.
Roseires[19]3405R. End of telegraph. Headquarters of aDistrict and residence of British Inspector; small garrison, postand telegraph offices. Old Roseires lies 3 miles further north.Hilly ground, thick dom palms along banks. Mimosa woods to the E.Plenty of game. Obstructions in the river begin some miles beforehere, and this is the limit of navigation for steamers or boats.About 2 miles south begin the Roseires cataracts. Malarial feverprevails during October and November. The soil here is composed ofalluvium overlying granite, in which the quartz and mica aresmall-grained, evenly distributed throughout, with a minimum offelspar. Less frequently the blocks are of large grained quartz,combined with felspar. The granite has been extensivelydisintegrated.
Abu Zoghali8413R. Mouth of khor of same name. Resthouse.
El Dakhla11424R. Best camping ground is where hospitalwas established after fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th December, 1898.The village is over a mile from the river inland. Village Iwanmarked on map is deserted. Latter part of road is thick jungle, andseveral deep khors intersect the path. Rest house.
Abu Gemai12½436½L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, about20 people. Rest house. Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road thegreater part of the way, but there are several deep khors boundedby thick jungle. In 11th mile you come to watering place,Ardeiba.
Ardeiba11447½R. Watering place.
Abu Sheneina3½451L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. bank,about 200 people; Sheikh Abd el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.
Famaka9460R. The latter part of road is very roughindeed, going over shoulder of J. Fazogli; very steep and rockyabout 2 to 3 miles.
Fazogli1461L. Easy path.

[10]No water here, January, 1901.

[11]There is now (1904) a colony of Baggara Arabs who were sent to this district after the fall of Omdurman (1893).

[12]This road has recently been straightened and improved.

[13]Not the same as Durraba on the Dinder.

[14]This report is on the old route. The new route at times follows the old one and at times the telegraph line, but the watering places are the same on both routes.

[15]On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a few inches of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13 camels, using 2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).

[16]Uninhabited in March, 1902 (Bonham-Carter).

[17]Some of the names in this report will probably be unknown to many guides.

[18]Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904) is about to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.

[19]Rest houses on left bank between Regeiba and Roseires are at M. Gurra, Moya Ahmar, Abkok, and El Disa; on right bank, between El Gereif and Roseires, at Magangani.

CHAPTER V.

(CENTRAL SUDAN.)

31.—KHARTOUM to WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, and KARKOJ, up Left Bank of BLUE NILE.

Compiled from Reports by Major de Rougemont and Captain H. F. S. Amery.

Corrected up to 1904.

Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia; these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls, &c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not included in the 5 P.T.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum (Palace)——The road passes overan open plain after leaving the old line of fortifications (gate 1mile from palace), passing Buri District, comprising 3 villages, tothe left; then through Gereif district; 7 villages, populationabout 1,000; opposite third village the road is ½ mile from river;road runs over flat open plain; cultivation—dura, cotton, dukhn,and vegetables in small quantities round each village. A track alsoleads straight to the Sabil Rest house, by following which about 1mile is saved.
Um Dom Island——
Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat7½7½Not inhabited.
Road passes in straight line fromKhartoum to Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat; at this point it meets theriver; excellent watering place only, no village. The village of UmDom (R.) is exactly opposite Meshra El Hagar.
Soba411½A small village of tukls on the R. bank.Fourteen miles from Khartoum there is good watering place, nograzing.
El Sabil617½Rest house. No village.
El Bageir1½19On river bank, 1½ miles from road,population 200. Through Sabil Kasm El Sid District; signs of ruinedvillage on side of road, from which Eilafun can be seen, bearing55°.
Goz Shereig——On R. bank.
Gedid726Population 1,000; cultivation roundvillages (3). Track passes over barren treeless plain to
Masudia5½31½Village on River, population 500;cultivation between village and river.
Nuba2¼33¾A large village, mud houses, population1,000; good cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south of Nuba.
El Masid538¾Rest house. Road still through openplain. No cultivation between Nuba and Masid, nor at latter.Inhabitants cultivate opposite bank. Large village withmosque.
Alti139¾A straggling village ¾ mile long,population 1,500; bank of river cultivated.
Um Magad342¾Village ½ mile long, population 300.
El Tikeina1¾44½Population 200. Encamped in open plain ½mile south of village; good watering place; no grazing.
Bishagra El Gharbi246½Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra ElSharki on opposite bank.
Fadl El Fogur147½A small village on river bank, population150.
El Takela2¼49¾Straggling village, population 800, ½mile from road on bank of river. Traces of rain cultivation.Another village on right of road, 1 mile further south, also calledEl Takela.
Wad El Turabi2¾52½A large village, with large mosque, ½mile from river. There is a small village on river bank under trees(mimosa). Rain-cultivated dura commences on right of road. Plentyof cultivation on river bank.
Kasembar2½55A small village of Kamlin district, ¼mile from road, population 200. The road now enters the Kamlindistrict, which stretches as far as Abu El Ashr.
El Heleila156A small village of Kamlin district 1¼mile left of road, population 200.
Kalkol——Same as El Heleila. A thick grove of Dompalms close to village.
Kamlin2½58½A large village, population 1,500, withthin grove of date palms on north side with rest house. Marketplace, dura obtainable. There are government farms and old ruinedindigo factory. A good camping ground on south side of village. Theroad to Kamlin is quite suitable for wheel traffic. The inhabitantsof Kamlin seem prosperous. The Gezira seems well supplied withgrass. The road now passes through more cultivation;rain-cultivation dura on both sides of road. Head Quarters of BlueNile Province (P.T.O.).
Um Degersi6½65Two small villages, population 700, 1mile east of road; nearly all straw tukls. Near here another smallvillage on bank Abd El Magdi, population 200; river cultivation.One mile south on right bank of river is the large village ofHelalia.
Abu El Ashr368½A large village on river bank. Herecommences Halawin district (includes Abu El Ashr), population 600;mud houses. Road passes through open woody country.
El Talbab3¼71¾Two miles from river, population 1,000.Mud houses. The road continues through the Halawin district,comprising some 64 villages inland. Cultivation by rain.
Um Haboba3¼75Commonly called by the natives theGeneinat El Halawin; excellent camping ground, garden, excellentgrazing, date palms, lemon trees in garden. The road now passesthrough somewhat thick mimosa jungle to plain covered with thornscrub.
Wad Abu Ferugha (Furur?)378Rest house. A large village, ¼ mile fromroad on left, population 800. A few dom palms and grazing(indifferent) along bank. Opposite bank well wooded, inhabitantsdepend on rain cultivation.
Debeba280A long straggling village, 1 mosque, afew sunt trees. An island called Debeba in front of village.Bearing from north end of village to Rufaa 110°, about 3 miles offon right bank.
Wad El Ramil½80½A small village east of road. Bearing toRufaa 90°. Road passes through open plain.
Hassa Hisa orHassai282½Two large sunt trees, one at north end,one at south end. Fair size village at the apex of the bend of theriver, mostly tukls. One and a quarter miles further on are twovery large acacia trees; road open. The river here makes a sharpsouth bend, Rufaa being about 3 miles north-east from here on R.B.There is a telegraph office at Rufaa.
In the bend opposite Rufaa are severalvillages, chief being El Amara, which is the Head Quarters of theMamur of Mesellemia District.
Wad El Fadui587½Road leaves El Amara to the left andstrikes the river again near Wad El Fadui.
El Akura4911Conspicuous palms near river’s edge. Raincultivation all along road and inland.
Grigrib394½Small Halawin village. Old Mesellemia nowmostly in ruins, lies about 4 miles south-west inland fromhere.
Fadasi1¾96¼Large village. Inhabitants chieflyRekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El Nazir Yusef. Rest house. Fromhere track passes through dura cultivation whole way to WadMedani.
Fadasi El Amara1¾98Palms and good deal of bush along riverbank.
Wad Medani[20]10108Head Quarters of Sennar Province and 1battalion of infantry. Second largest town in the Sudan.
Habiballa3111Village on Blue Nile on left of road.Much cultivation hereabouts.
Um Bellal3114Village on right of road. Much junglealong river bank.
Bagadi9123Several villages arepassed and a good deal of cultivation to Bagadi, a large villagewith good watering place. From here the telegraph runs to Meshra ElBeriab (10 miles), and thence to Meshra El Shukaba (6½ miles);however, the most direct road cuts off the bend and strikes theriver at Meshra Shukaba. Several villages in this neighbourhood andbush both inland and along river bank. A road from Segadi joins inhere.
Meshra El Shukaba14137
El Denegila4141Good watering place; several villages.Cultivation.
Meshra El Dai9¾150¾Several villages andmuch cultivation is passed on the river bank about half way toMeshra El Hegerat. Much bush about here, but main road isgood.
Meshra El Hegerat7157¾
Sennar9166¾In ruins, but being re-built. HeadQuarters of District and garrisoned by a detachment from WadMedani.
2½169¼River bends eastwardsand road leaves it about 2 miles to the east and passes throughthick bush to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before reaching which SheikhTalha is passed on the right bank. Good camping ground andgrazing.
Meshra Eridiba11180¼
Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country ismore open, and cultivated with dura and semsem.
Abdin is a moderate-sized village onriver bank 1½ miles from main road. Good watering place. No grazingnear camp, but it is obtainable some 2 miles north.
Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to theeast.
Enediba13193¼On river bank. Fromhere there is a road following the river which makes a big bend tothe east to Senga. The direct road is viâ Enediba, andpasses through much cultivation and crosses many tracks to Senga,an important village on the river bank. This is now the HeadQuarters of the old Karkoj District. It is garrisoned by adetachment from Wad Medani. Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs livehere, but the population is much mixed. From Senga roads lead toLueisa and Abu Kashim on the Dinder.
Senga or Seneij11¾205
There is a P.T.O. here.
A road runs east from here viâTeigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali, and another to J. Moya. From J.Dali there are tracks to the White Nile at Jebelein and Goz AbuGuma.
Senga Um Benein6½211½From here the track runs due south toSenga Um Benein on river bank. Kenana village.
Meshra Dar Agil7½219Thence to Meshra DarAgil, whence by river bank to Karkoj, a town of not much importancenow owing to the transfer of Government offices, &c., toSenga.
Karkoj5224

32.—KHARTOUM to GOZ ABU GUMA and JEBELEIN, up Right Bank of WHITE NILE.

Compiled from Reports by Captains T. Conolly and W. A. Boulnois (1899).

N.B.—The river can be approached practically anywhere as far as Shawal.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Leaving the most westerly group of palmsat Khartoum, the road runs due south for a mile, leaving thevillage of Goz on the left, and that of Rumeila on the right.Cotton soil. River visible.
Assara——In next 7 miles roadruns (185 Mag.), passing a string of villages on the right (W.)about 1 mile away. The name of all these seems to be Assara, tillone gets to the village of Kalakla, about 6 miles from Khartoum,situated in a large clump of trees. Road runs on open desertsand—very good going; river invisible, about 2 miles off.
Kalakla56
Sheikh Um Meriom39At 9 miles from Khartoum road passes avillage with a high tomb in it, called Sheikh Wad Um Meriom. Thislies on the river about 1½ miles from the main road.
El Kalakeil110At 10 miles road passes El Kalakeil onthe E. side of it. There are some signs in this last mile of thecountry having been cultivated. From here the river is about 3miles off, invisible on account of the bank of sand which forms thedesert edge, and some trees on it.
After this the road enters some low sandhills, with large clumps of big trees on the river side about ½mile off.
313Three miles off this brings one into thefirst open scrub, which gets closer as it approaches the river—butis not thick, except in a few places on the river bank.
Geziret Haraz417At 17 miles the headof two islands at high Nile (now no longer islands), called GeziretHaraz and Geziret Um Arda. These islands are, I believe, some 5miles apart at high Nile, but are now practically one, owing to bigalluvial flat from which they rise, being dry at this time of theyear (10.3.99).
Geziret Um Arda——
At this point, and for the next 3 mileson the road, there are a good number of shallow, 15 to 20 feet,wells, giving good water, slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but 7 werereported by natives. There are a good number of camels to be seenin this piece of country.
J. Auli825Eight miles further takes one to J. Auli,a steep rock about 100 feet high, with a small under-feature on theN.W., about 50 feet. There is a good meshra, or watering place.Under this mountain there is a good camping ground for abrigade.
Gar El Nabi328Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3 miles GarEl Nabi is reached, which lies close to it. These 3 miles arethrough open bush, with river visible about ½ to 1 mile off.
432For the next 4 miles the bush getsthicker and the road is crossed by small khors, and in places bycultivation zeribas. River invisible.
Next 6 miles the bush gets more openagain, and a line of small sand hills is seen along the river edgehiding it. Horses can be watered anywhere in this 6 miles. In thelast half of this distance the trees cease on the east side of theroad and 2 large khors cross it.
Opposite J. Barima or Breima638At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite on theother bank of the river. For about 2 miles before reaching thispoint, and for 2½ miles after it, the road runs through sand hills,the river being visible about ½ mile off.
At this point (2½ miles south of J.Barima) the river is quite close to the road, which changes itsdirection to 200° magnetic.
745The road rises slightly in the next mileand 3½ miles further on goes through bush which, though open on theE. side, is fairly thick on the W., making the riverinvisible.
Wad Belal348After 3 miles through open bush and sandhills, Wad Belal, a wood station for steamers and a good wateringplace is reached.
250For the first 2 miles from Wad Belal theroad runs through scattered trees which become fairly close bush onthe river side for another 2 miles.
El Geteina4½54½The road enters a large plain of cottonsoil, with three tracks across it to Arab dwellings, towards thecentre of the Gezira about 4 miles in, and reaches the largevillage of El Geteina. On the river side there is a large alluvialflat about 2 miles across, and 3 to 4 miles long, which runs northof El Geteina towards Wad Belal. There is a curious round sand hillin the middle of this flat which must be an island at highNile.
El Geteina consists of two villages about1 mile apart, the larger of the two being to the north. It isfairly clean and has a very good market. There was a certain amountof cultivation going on with Shadufs (not an amount proportionateto the size of the village), and a large tract of country isobviously sown with dura during the rains. This was the mostprosperous village I saw on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is nowHead Quarters of Geteina District.
One mile over cotton soil beyond thevillage of El Geteina, a small one of the same name isreached.
Immediately on leaving this, the roadruns into sand dunes with bush for 1 mile; river close (200yards).
After that, 6½ miles of very good goingthrough scattered trees. The road here is crossed by a large numberof Arab tracks to meshras; and many herds of sheep and goats wereseen. River invisible from road.
The next 3 miles runs through fairlythick bush with open spaces. This bush gets thinner as it recedesfrom the river. During the next 2½ miles the road passes to west ofa fine strip of open cotton soil about 2½ miles wide, separatedfrom the river by a thick strip of bushes and a large alluvialplain, so that now (12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles from theriver. Much dura seems to have been grown here, but only a smallportion of this large plain was under cultivation last year.
Garrasa1266½At the end of thisplain to the S.E. there are a line of sand hills running N.E. toS.W., and getting gradually smaller towards the S.W. These runalongside the road, beyond the open plain, and end in some smalldunes near the village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a smallvillage—without a market—the people of which seem poor. There is agood meshra here. Leaving Garrasa the road runs through about 3miles of dura land, a large part of which has been recentlycultivated. River ¼ to ½ mile away.
369½
Wad Shalai2½72After 2½ miles more, alongside sand hillsnear the river, the road reaches the small village of WadShalai—the inhabitants of which were all away on the river bankcultivating.
Wad El Saki779Seven miles further, Wad El Saki, a largevillage on the top of some sand hills, is reached.
The population was about 400 to 500(March, 1899). The road runs the first half of this distancethrough sand dunes on both sides, with the river close and visible.The last half leaves the river gradually, and passing through somedura ground, is about 1½ miles from it at Wad El Saki.
Sayef382From here 3 miles take one to a fewhouses about 2 miles from the river on some sand hills calledSayef, being one of three villages of that name.
486After 4 miles overcotton soil the road crosses a sand-hill ridge running at rightangles to the river, and about 1 mile from it, and descends intothe plain close to the river at a point where another village, alsocalled Sayef, is seen about 2 miles inland. At this point there isa good meshra, and a ferry to the other bank.
187
693After several miles of low scrub on theriver side, and cotton soil which has all been cultivated, on theeast Debasi Meshra is reached.
Debasi295Here the Khalifa had a big grain depôt,the ruins of which can still be seen. There is a regular ferry fromhere to the other bank. Two miles from this meshra is the villageof Debasi; population about 400. The road for this distance isthrough sand hills, ½ mile from the river.
The village is on the north bank of deepkhor. No water in khor (13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might entail 2 or3 miles circuit at high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha (3½ miles)road close to bank. Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles distant.
Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile east ofroad. Sandy bank to river, good watering; slight scrub close toriver to 6th mile. Thence scrub and sunt trees along road (thicknear river), cotton soil, muddy bank. Road closes to river atGhobeisha.
Ghobeisha13108Ghobeisha meshra and village, good placefor camp and watering. Road crosses open plain with high grasscotton soil, probably under water at high Nile.
Ghayafa4½112½Ghayafa meshra, good camping ground andwatering place; sand hill near meshra. Scrub fairly thick, cottonsoil.
Denegila8½121Denegila village, W.of road, opposite island of same name; 1½ miles further, villageAbu Karun, N. of road, where it crosses track to Um Seneita, thenceto Um Gar village, W. of road, opposite island same name. Duracrops in this district; thick bush close to river to Meshra ElHella. Road runs close to river to Kawa.
Um Gar4125
Meshra El Hella3128
Kawa4132Kawa, large village with suk, HeadQuarters of District, Post and Telegraph station. Road runs ½ mileto 1 mile from river through dura cultivation, and then over grassyplain past village Abu Hindi.
Meshra Shaggara6138Meshra and village close to river.
Hassan Alob7145Thence past Kanuzvillage, with island opposite, the road runs ¼ mile to ½ mile fromriver to Hassan Alob, on the banks of the river with an islandcalled Dabus opposite. Still through bush country to NurEl Daim (largevillage and police station). Road leaves river ½ mile to 1 miledistant up to Sheikh’s tomb (Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on theriver bank. Three large trees, a ruined mud and brick building, andsome flags mark it.
Nur Ed Daim3148
Sheikh’s tomb3151
Shawal2153Road bends due S. to Shawal. Largevillage. Country: open bush, slightly undulating; good sandywatering places at river. J. Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island begins2 miles S.
Malaha3156Meshra Malaha andvillage Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt works. Road enters scrub;bush country to Marabia, good camping ground on high ground, wherethere are the ruins of an old fort and brick buildings. Road leavesriver, crosses a grassy plain—probably under water at fullNile—passed village Torba, E. of road, and turns S.W. to Goz AbuGuma, Head Quarters of District, telegraph and post office.
Marabia8164
Goz Abu Guma or Zeinuba16½180½
From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile to 1mile from river. Line of villages (see sketch) on highground about 4½ miles from river. Chiefly cattle grazing.
El Khema6186½Road joins river atEl Khema. Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit; good camping ground andsmall village. There is a ford here at low Nile. Two miles furtheron Musran Island begins and continues to 3 miles of Jebelein.
Mokada Abu Zeit4½195½
Meshra Hedib4½200Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The roadkeeps close to the river bank. The E. channel seemed very muchblocked with sudd, only a narrow passage 50 yards wide beingvisible at times.
Meshra Zuleit17½217½There is a meshra toMusran Island, 7 miles as the road turns from Jebelein calledZuleit. Hence the road winds through thick scrub, with patches ofopen country right up to the ford at Jebelein.
Jebelein8½225
Rocky hills commanding the river about300 feet high.
Grassy plain between north and southridges.
Village on E. of southern ridge.

33.—KHARTOUM to GULE, viâ MANAGIL and SEGADI.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khartoum——Leaving Khartoum bythe track passing 200 yards west of the westernmost rifle butts,the country for the first 7 miles is quite open, and very slightlyundulating. The soil is poor and sandy, and no attempt atcultivation is visible. At 8 miles the track passes through lowscattered arak bush, which continues to Id El Agaliin, where thereis one well 120 feet deep with a good supply of water. Ahmed ElFaki is the Omda of El Agaliin. Very fair grazing for camels onarak bush. Leaving the Id the country soon becomes open and bare,the soil richer, and traces of cultivation appear. Numerous crosstracks to the river are met with.
Id El Agaliin17½17½
Id Wad El Bella421½One well 120 feet deep; water said to beplentiful.
Sherafat930½A tukl village (allvillages met hereafter are built of tukls) is passed 1¼ miles on W.of track. It has a well. A mile further on arak and laot bushcommence and continue to Id El Orus, where there is one well 120feet deep; water plentiful, but slightly salt. About a mile beforereaching the Id a large village named Debeisa is passed about 1mile to the east. The people here are a mixture of Jaalin, Awamer,&c. Very fair grazing for camels on arak; there is little or nograss here or anywhere else this year.
Id El Orus5½36
7½43½On leaving the Id the same sort of countrycontinues, cultivation and scattered arak bush, the track stillkeeping the same S.S.W. direction. At 7½ miles the road to El Ribibranches off half left, and 2½ miles further on Id El Kereil ispassed, ½ mile off on the right, the village being about the samedistance further W. of the well. The country now becomes perfectlybare (at this season), it being entirely under cultivation, if notthis year at any rate in a good season, and the bush ceasesaltogether. Villages begin to get numerous, and natives are morefrequently met, as from here on to Managil, but few leave theirvillages for the river. This district is known as Gutefab, and thechief village is El Areik (Awamer) which is on the road, the Idbeing a mile to the east.
Id El Kereil2½46
248
Gutefab El Areik452
355About 3 miles on arakgrows and affords the only grazing for camels, but it only extendsfor about ½ mile along the road; the country then become scatteredwith laot bush and naal grass.
257
Goz El Naga259Goz El Naga is passed about a mile on theright. Not much cultivation visible about here.
Dagala362A small village with no well.
1½63½Road branches: rightto Sarhan, left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where lives the sheikh of thesame name; his ancestors are buried close by, and have always beenof a so-called religious nature and used to be at any rate, if notnow, head of a dervish-like Tarika. Village consists of about 100tukls. Low laot bush around here. Leaving the village on bearing216° after 1¾ miles road from Dagala to Sarhan is met and followed;the well of Sarhan being passed close by on the left and thevillage about 1 mile on the right. Country here quite flat, andcovered with naal grass where not cultivated. El Ogda a largeMugharba village with one well of the usual depth, 120 feet. Waterplentiful, 50 camels watered without inconvenience to inhabitants.Leaving the Id, country continues the same flat naal-covered plainwith occasional laot bushes until nearing Wad El Zein (Omda AhmedWad El Zein), where remains of cultivation increase. There is onewell 120 feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No grazing here for camelsas elsewhere in this neighbourhood. Cultivation occurs atintervals, becoming more general after passing Sheteita a smallMugharba village. Kreimet is a large Arakin village, Omda AhmedYusef. Its two wells are 4 miles further on. Another large Arakinvillage on left of road with a well, as also have two othervillages close on right of road.
Wad Abu Kassawi366½
1¾68¼
Sarhan371¼
El Ogda5¾77
Wad El Zein11¾88¾
Sheteita492¾
Kreimet5½98¼
Wells4102¼
El Tageia1¼103½
Managil3½107The plural of ElMangala, the name given to the village in which the suk issituated. There are some half dozen to a dozen villages closetogether. There are three wells and water never fails,notwithstanding they are 150 feet deep. Here there are inspector’shouses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There is a large mixed population,some of whom were seen playing a game called “tiwa” very likerounders. The plain of Managil is absolutely flat, without a singlebush in sight, the whole in favourable seasons being given up tocultivation. Market days are Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving Managilby the route taken Otgi (Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El Shagl(Faradiin) are passed a mile or more on the right hand, whilstTakala and Um Dugl are passed on the left, before reaching Um Talhaa Faradiin village. All these villages have wells, as have allvillages of any pretensions about here.
Um Talha9½116½
Sheleikha2½119A Shaigia villagepassed on left, and Wad Doka on the right, before reaching El Amara(Hameg), and ¾ mile further on Wad Gangar (Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾miles further on, and a ¼ mile before reaching it a small suk ispassed. From here on the people are Kawahla.
El Amara3½122½
Wad Gangari¾123¼
Rabaha1¾125
Between Managil and Rabaha the trackappears to follow a low ridge overlooking an extensive and fertileplain to the W. growing a large amount of cotton and dura. J.Maturi is plainly visible.
Khalet5½130½After leaving Rabaha track passes throughlow laot bush which continues as far as Khalet. Two villages,Hellet El Hag and Wad Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile on theright and left of road en route, as also is Sheikh AbdelRof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is the last on the road to Segadi, there are severalother Kawahla villages with cultivation and wells close by. ImamAli is the head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet it is possible underfavourable conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon after leaving Khaletthe first kittr is met, it now becomes the prevailing bush.
Wad Mukashfi4½135Called after the sonof the Dervish Emir who captured Sennar, who (son) now lives hereand is said to have only lately come out of prison for dervishpractices. This is the last village in the Managil District of BlueNile Province. The Sennar Province is now entered. After passingthe Mukashfi cultivation, the road leads across an uninhabitedwaterless plain until Segadi is reached. This plain, on whichnumerous camels are grazed during the rains, is, as a rule, openand covered with naal and siha grass intersected at intervals bybelts of kittr, the thickest and widest is in the last 4 milesbefore reaching the hamlet on the north of J. Segadi. Anotheroutlying hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed but not seen, about 4miles from the jebel which strongly resembles J. Kassala on a smallscale. It consists of two main granite masses lying north-east andsouth-west, the wells being between them. There is also one on thewestern side of main jebel. The village, which must contain some1,500 inhabitants, is close to the western face of the largerjebel. The population is very mixed, and many only live here duringthe dry season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is Sheikh of this heterogeneouscrowd. There are said to be caves in the jebels here, whichdoubtless occasionally harbour bad characters from the Gezira andelsewhere.
J. Sejadi24159
1160
Moya13½173½Following the telegraph line which runsE.S.E., Moya is reached in about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is passedthrough en route, but the road is cleared for the wire.Approaching Moya much cultivation is passed in clearings in thebush. The name Moya as applied to this village is an euphemism aswater is particularly scarce, and is obtained from several 15 to 20feet wells under the jebel 1 mile south of the village. In the hotweather the inhabitants (probably 2,000) disperse or else carrytheir water from Segadi. The Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, andthe majority of the population are Amarna, a few Hameg and Gowama.There are caves called “maiuba” in the jebel close to the village,said to be used for “fogara.” From the summit of the jebel, J. Daliis plainly visible on a favourable day, bearing 177½° magnetic.There is little shade here.
Road to Teigo3176½After hugging the eastern end of J. Moya,the road to Gule turns nearly due south, the road to Teigobranching off S.S.E., and after traversing a bad belt of kittr bushabout ½ mile in width, the road crosses a plain at first studdedwith kurmet, but later without bush at all.
4180½Road here bifurcates, the left hand trackleading to the river (Blue Nile).
5185½The road from Seneij or Senga to Goz AbuGuma viâ J. Dud crosses the track.
J. Sereig10195½A small granite hill about 200 feet high,the road passes it 100 yards on the right hand.
6201½Scattered bush nowcommences and continues with occasional interruptions untilreaching the bad kittr about 1 mile wide surrounding Jebel Dali, astony hill about 500 feet high. Water is found about half way up,immediately below its highest point. After a good rainy season itlasts till March or April, but there was practically none onFebruary 4th, 1902.
J. Dali19½221
J. Abu Garud22243The road from Sengaviâ Teigo on Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu Guma passesby this watering place. Remains of former habitations of Abu RofArabs are visible. Leaving the jebel in a southerly direction aftertraversing a thick belt of kittr, ½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visibleon the left and J. Abu Garud and other hills on the right. AbuGarud is the highest hill seen south of Khartoum. At first thecountry is open, then forest (chiefly soffar) begins and continuestill after passing J. Bozi a long, low hill immediately under thewest end of which the road passes, and then becomes open untilreaching J. Mazmum. Here rain and spring water is found in natural tanks inperhaps half a dozen places. The amount of water of course varyingwith the rains. There was sufficient in a tank at the foot of thesouthern end of the western face of the jebel to water 40 camelsand 40 men for two days. This exhausted this supply. A spring atthe foot of the southern end of the western face, being on theroad, is the one generally used, and the supply is consequentlylow. There is a tank about 20 yards by 10 yards on a detached hill,about ¾ mile N.W. of main jebel. Water was found of an averagedepth of 2 feet, both sweet and clear. This being off the road hadnot been much used. There is said to be always water at Mazmum. Nonatives[21] live here now, though formerly it was headquarters of the Abu Rof Arabs, the remains of whose houses arestill visible. Good shade (200 men), and very fair grazing forcamels near western water tank. From here, Gireiwa and other hillsto the S. and S.E., as well as Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easilyvisible.
J. Bozi9252
J. Mazmum14266
Water Tank1½267½
4271½The track to Gulestill leads south, the country being open for first 4 miles, whennarrow belt of bush is traversed. Five miles further on thicksoffar bush commences which develops into forest, which extends E.and W. continuously for many miles south of Gule. The principaltrees are hashab (very numerous about 20th mile, but decrease asGireiwa is approached), talh, nabag, soffar, kadad, and thepoisonous (to camels) hakabit. Wide clearings along the pathindicate that in the old days this road was much used, but now theyare mostly overgrown, and travelling by night is an unpleasant, ifnot a dangerous proceeding.
5276½
J. Gireiwa21½298Two long low hills running nearly E. andW., and where the road passes between them there is a small supplyof water (spring), 20 yards on right side of road.
El Burun7305J. Gule is firstvisible from here, and is a granite mass about 1,300 (?) feet highand 1¾ miles long, lying nearly E. and W. El Burun a small villageat the foot of northern face of the jebel is first approached, theroad then turns to the west, passing an encampment of Dar AgilArabs, and after rounding the western end of Jebel Gule the villageof Gule is reached close at the foot of western and of southernface. There is a plentiful supply of water, which, however, islargely impregnated with lime and consequently is injurious tohealth. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh of Dar Fung and lives here. He isa direct descendant of the kings of the Fung, whose formerterritory extended to the south beyond the present limits of theSudan-Abyssinian frontier. The total inhabitants of Gule and itstwo outlying hamlets is about 1,000. The natives are Hameg, andSelim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam about in the neighbourhood. Roadslead from here to Roseires (5 days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj, andRenk (2 days). There is much fever here during and after the rainyseason. There is good shade about 1 mile east of the village.Little in the way of supplies, not even grain, is obtainablehere.
Gule3308

34.—MANAGIL to SENNAR.

By Captain N. M. Smyth, V.C., 1899.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Managil——Headquarters of District (videpreceding report).
Abud (Abudia Tribe)9½9½Most fertile land in the Gezirahereabouts. Track runs E. through grass plain. Bush visible 1 mileto S. Two wells 150 feet deep. Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to WadMedani, and S.E. to Sennar.
Um Deghina (Kawahla)110½Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry afterDecember. Cultivation commences.
212½Mimosa scrub W. of track.
315½Village of same name ½ mile S.
217½A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high, and highgrass on both sides of the road. The Hassanat have a camp in thewinter about 2 miles W. of track, and water at Abud andAtaleih.
Ataleih421½Two wells. A large tree ½ mile N.W.serves as landmark. No good shade obtainable. S. of this, thornyscrub has sprung up on fallow land. A track leading S.W. to Bagadi,Kenana, Digoisab and Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on aboutS.E.
Keteir627½Small village marked by a large tree. Onewell about 150 feet deep, runs dry directly after watering about200 people, 300 sheep and 20 donkeys.
Karatib (Jaalin and Kenana)431½Large village, good well, excellent blackcotton soil extending for 3 miles in all directions. Only patcheshave been cultivated for dura.
233½Thick bush and high grass. View limitedto 300 yards.
Basabir (Jaalin)134½New well being sunk. Cotton and duracrops.
Fahal (Kenana)135½About 50 huts to W. Copious supply ofwater from well. A small khor S.E. of it holds water till December.Wood extends to S.
Fahal Suk136½Consists of rows of straw shantiessituated in a wood. It is chiefly used by Kenana.
El Giseirab238½One good well in a clearing in wood.Easily defended; good bivouac ground.
Tulbakh442½Last mile of approachis open and partly cultivated. Long straggling village. Dry pondand cemetery N. of it. To S.W. the market, and a well and pondwhich dried up about 10th February. Mohammed El Nur of Kenana isSheikh of village. Several hundred sheep, many donkeys, one horse,fowls and pigeons, but no camels. The best marked track leads S.from the Suk, and, bending S.E., passes zeribaed dura fields to ElDoma, where there is a village and a well. It continues, throughshady acacia and fields to Meshra El Dai, whence the Blue Nile canbe reached.
El Doma850½
Meshra El Dai454½
Meshra El Bejirat256½Good halting place on bank.
Sennar965½Banks wooded.

35.—KEILI to SENGA, viâ GULE.

Compiled from a Report furnished by Lieut.-Col. Gorringe, March, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Keili, S.W.——Limited water supply from water holes,but more could be had by digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil inplaces and stony in others—single file along track.
Khor Farsia1111Insufficient water at Kukulik, had to goon to Khor Farsia, fair supply of water by digging 4 feet. Afterwhich, no water first 3 miles. Cotton soil, single file. After J.Doya, good hard going cotton soil last 2 miles.
Khor Togu33½44½Ample water 18 feet below surface in KhorTogu, first 4 miles cotton soil. Rest house. After reaching J.Dunkur good hard going for 3 miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1 mile eachside J. Bur-Burka good going, then bad again over cotton soil,insufficient water at first village 4 miles from spot camped at, alittle water half way between village and camp in Khor Togu.
Seraf Dal10½55Ample water running and in pools, singlefile, stony, fair going only, bad in places. Rest house atSoda.
Khor Tamrin762Fair supply of water in pools probablyample by digging, a good deal up and down hill, hard going butstone, single file.
J. Kukur567Good supply of water reported in SerafSahaba, hard going, stony, single file. Rest house.
J. Buk (N.W. end)8½75½Rest house. Fair supply of water in waterholes, cotton soil, single file, bad going. From here on no water,very bad going, hard cotton soil badly cracked, single file, thoughroad has been widened.
J. Gule30½106Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad Ragab.Limited supply of water in water holes, good supply from Governmentwells, very bad going except in few places, soil badly cracked,single file, though road has been widened.
J. Jemam or Ali9115Small supply of water here.
J. Roro (N.E. side)5½120½Plenty of water in water holes 4 feetdeep, going same as before. Continuing, no water but better going,though mostly cotton soil, single file.
J. Werka19139½Small amount of water in holes.
J. Gerebin15½155Very limited supply of water in waterholes in two places at N. side of hill, just sufficient water ineach to water about 100 horses once. There is however a largetank of beautiful water on the top of the hill. This does notlast throughout the dry weather. Going same as before. From here tothe river there is no water, going for the first 7 miles same asbefore, after which it improves, but all marching is in singlefile.
Meshra Gurra (Blue Nile)25180From here good road down L. B. Blue Nileto Singa.
Ramela10190Jaalin village.
Abu Naam3193Village on Blue Nile.
Geneira8201 „ „ „
Seiro7½208½ „ „ „
Senga19½228Head quarters of Senga District.

36.—SENGA to J. JEROK, viâ KHOR OFAT and KEILI.

By Captain C. Roberts, R.A., February, 1904.

Note.—This was the route followed by the expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904. It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be adopted, at any rate for Government purposes.

From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot be taken as accurate.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Senga——Leaving Senga, road good, mostly overcotton soil; last part better than first, but dusty. Countrycovered with bush. There are two roads; westerly one to Um Bayagaand thence S.E. towards river, other road runs nearer the river.Wheeled transport feasible.
Um Benein66There are two Meshrashere, bad at High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood plentiful, grassfairly so. From here two roads, the one nearest river is shortest.Going on upper road bad after leaving Dar Agil, last part betteralong telegraph line. Thick bush. Good camp about 2 miles fromtelegraph line. Good Meshra, wood and grass plentiful, duck jhil 3miles S. of camp.
Meshra Abu Hagar1824
Abu Naama1438From here two roads, one along river,other along telegraph line, latter shorter. Bad going, cotton soil, thick scrub.Bad (steep) meshra for animals. Headquarters of District.
From here two roads, better and shorterupper one along telegraph. Country thick bush, more undulating.Good going.
Gura1553Good meshra and shadycamp. From here two roads, lower one along river the shorter—latterpart along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts through it. River reachedby elephant track. Country dense scrub, and difficult for camels atnight. At high Nile lower road impassable. Good camp on sandy bedof river. Grass plentiful and watering easy. Road now good thoughhilly, and follows telegraph line, but branches off to riveropposite to Sherif Ahmed (right bank). Dense bush.
Galgeni1568
Taulu1987A very good, large camping ground ongrass and good meshra. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp must beswampy in rains.
Road still hilly; difficult khor about 4miles from camp, could be easily improved. Road difficult forcamels owing to thick bush, and road along telegraph toohilly.
Abu Kok17104Camp at Abu Kok in February bad, as siteis really a marsh. Bad water, but later on river is getatable.
El Disa10114From here road along telegraph, but laterbranches off to El Disa on a rise overlooking small lake. Verypretty place. Camped on sandy river bed; easy watering; wood andgrass plentiful.
After striking telegraph good road, first4 miles through thick scrub. Hilly at first, level after passingAbu Rainat, and much cultivation.
Roseires (Left Bank)14128Good meshra, fair camping ground, woodand grass plentiful.
Kharaba (Right Bank)11139Continuing S. good going to oppositeKharaba. Good camp in grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks steep andbed of river soft.
Mouth of Khor Ofat16155Good road, last part through dom jungleto Khor Ofat. Found eight water holes dug in khor, and cavalrycamped 1 mile further down at pool in bed of khor. Good campingground in bed of khor; grass and water plentiful.
Camp (Khor Ofat)16171The route taken nowlay nearly due S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles followed khor,then found excellent road, except for occasional deep elephanttracks along bank. Mostly cotton soil and thick jungle. Descendedinto bed of khor after 10 miles, and marched up it to where wefound running water. Good camping ground close by. Grass, wood, andwater all plentiful. Continuing S. outside khor, cotton soil, goodgoing, thick bush, grass higher and thicker as we descended intokhor, 9 miles from last camp. Left khor again still heading S.,road bad, cotton soil, trees bigger. Last 4 miles country more openand going better. Extended formations possible. Camped at poolwhere large herd of roan drinking. Khor 400 yards wide. Good camp,grass, shade, wood, and water plentiful.
Camp, Pool (Khor Ofat)20191
Camp (Khor Ofat)15206From here marched up khor; mostly veryheavy going, parts of it hard. Uninteresting road. Khor narrows to120 yards. Halted at two big water holes. More water obtained bydigging under W. bank.
Continuing marching up khor which becomesnarrower and stonier, passed through several “shellal” (cataracts)and khors running into Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor good hardgoing.
Camp (Khor Ofat)15221Banks become lower, bamboo jungle chieflywith large trees. Good camp and water from holes in bed ofkhor.
Camp (Khor Ofat)13234Leave Khor Ofat tothe W. At first bad going, pass large patch of cultivation withtukls and leave J. Ragreig on the E., and strike khor at pool; goodroad. Khor 15 yards wide and runs E. and W. here. From here goodroad to Keili. Good camping ground, but water in wells dirty. Goodwater obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles N.N.E. Garrison, 50Sudanese regulars. Path from here excellent, passing through gooddeal of cultivation and leaving J. Kamya from which good view of asurrounding country obtainable close to E.
Keili5239
Khor Timsa11250After J. Kamya track intersected by khorsand is over bad cotton soil. Good camp, grass poor, waterplentiful.
From here to Jerok trying march, as pathcontinually ascends and descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the W.
J. Jerok20270Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad Mahmud.Garrison of 50 Sudanese regulars on small hill, about 1½ miles S.Water supply scanty, but plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in KhorAgaheni.

37.—ROSEIRES to KEILI, viâ GULE.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Roseires——
Abramat33Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road goesthrough bush and grass.
J. Agadi[22]2225Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here inthree places, not good. Road now goes S. until Seraf Jogo; usualcotton soil and bush.
Seraf Jogo2550Rest house and good water here in khorfrom a spring; tobacco cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad going, overrocks; pass spring at Pingulo; road going W. to Buk.
J. Buk1262Water here under villages on S. side ofhill, not good. Road goes off N.W. towards Gule; grass and bush andcotton soil.
Gule27½89½Water here good intwo places on S. side of hill. One deep well, good water, also bighole with Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib; a flat depression withsmall khor in it; sometimes water holes where Arabs water sheep.Well 20 feet deep, good supply of water; track turns to S. to J.Silak.
Khor Deleib16½106
J. Silak22128Water south side of hill, full of filth,natives even say it is bad, except just after rain. Rest househere.
Road goes off due E. through pass in J.Sirefat to J. Mogaja.
J. Majaju19¼147¼Village on top of high rock; water has tobe brought down by natives—very good; go due South now to Abuldugu,road over hard ground. Well can be easily sunk at bottom of hill 6feet deep. Rest house.
J. Abuldugu16½163¾Water here in pond in pass in the hills,getting bad at this time of year (Feb.). Water obtainable fromwells in K. Ganna, not very plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a Resthouse here.
Track due S. to J. Surkum.
A track also goes to Keili (9 hoursmarch), water plentiful, Kukeli two-thirds of way.
J. Surkum14177¾Water in four places on S. side—verydirty.
Water also obtainable in khor about 1½miles N.E.
J. Keili20197¾Track goes off to W., and is over cottonsoil, and crosses khors. Water here plentiful. Best water S. end ofbig hill some way up. Rest house.

38.—FAZOGLI to GEZAN.

By Lieutenant L. C. Jackson, R.E.

The Road.Is in good condition throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.

The Country.Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule.

Water.Is very scarce. All the khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes scraped in the bed. The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be obtained on our way back, only three days later.

Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems to be an ample supply just below the surface.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Fazogli, Mek’s House——The road leaves the village in asoutherly direction and runs straight to the foot of J. Fazogli, onreaching which it follows the S.E. spur, but without ascending it.At first it runs through patches of cultivation, but after about ½mile this gives place to thin bush. The road is for the most partgood, except where it crosses numerous small khors, tributaries ofthe Khor Akluli, which also follows the foot of the ridge, as arule between the road and the high ground. The ascent on the rightof the road is very steep, and the hill side consists of bouldersand loose stones and is covered with scrub.
Kukuru6¾6¾Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a few tuklsare passed, and shortly afterwards the road bends eastwards andenters the village of Kukuru, which consists of some 50 or 60tukls. There is a considerable amount of cultivation here, but mostof it lies S. of the khor on the Kira road. At the end of December,1899, water was only obtainable from holes in the bed of the khor,and appears to be very bad and scarce.
After crossing the khor the road runsstraight through the bush to J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba. Upto J. Taza the surrounding country is flat and the bush thick, andnothing can be seen from the road, except an occasional glimpse ofa distant hill. A very small quantity of water was obtained bydigging in the bed of the Khor Daru on the 24th December,1899, but four days later on returning this had dried up.
Beyond J. Taza the country is moreundulating, but still covered with bush, and for the last ½ milebefore Khor Baba it is somewhat rough.
Khor Baba8¾15½Camped here 25thDecember, 1899. A tributary of the Khor Tumat about 25 yards broadwhere crossed by the road. Good water obtainable, but gettingscarce now. Road beyond somewhat rough and uneven, which is causedby the spurs of J. Agaro, &c., all of which hills are left onright. Bush, with no traces of water, until Khor Sumba is reached,but J. Agaro is inhabited by Jebelawin.
J. Agaro4½20
Khor Sumba525Crossed three times in the space of about½ mile. Probably due to an S curve in the river and not threedistinct channels. Breadth of each about 35 yards, but extremelyshallow. Banks very fertile and a good deal of cultivation,principally dura. Good water obtainable here.
Khor Tumat126Road just enters khor, where it is joinedby Khor Kari, but leaves it again without crossing it. Khor about60 yards broad here. No water visible, but could probably beobtained by digging, as there is any quantity just below thesurface about 5 miles further south. From here to the Khor El Dahab(Adaba), trees are bigger and water evidently more plentiful, withmany traces of all sorts of game.
Khor El Dahab2¾28¾Crossed by the road about ½ mile from itsjunction with the Khor Tumat. Water obtainable at present, but verylittle and bad. Road crosses east of J. Farbau, passing over someof the low spurs; ground broken and stony. All traces of water nowdisappear and the ordinary bush begins again. Numerous small khorsare crossed, but all completely dry. J. Gumbûk is left to the E.,and about 1 mile further on signs of water are again visible andcultivation recommences, also two or three tukls. Henceforwardcultivation is continuous, and about ¾ mile further on at some moretukls the road turns abruptly to the right and runs straight downto the Khor Tumat.
Gezan (Water pool in KhorTumat)836¾Camp here in bed of khor 26th December,1899. Water good and plentiful but below surface.
Milk and other supplies only obtainedwith great difficulty.

39.—GEZAN to KURMUK, viâ SUDE and M’NZILA.

By Major Gwynn, D.S.O., R.E.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Khor Tumat——Track passes underthe northern foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching J. Sude, water isfound in Khor Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain amount of gold washingis carried on in both these water courses.
J. Ghezan33
J. Sude1215Sude was the site of an old EgyptianMamuria. The present Mek is a Berta and very few of the nativesknow Arabic. There is a good deal of cultivation and plenty ofwater is obtainable.
M’Nzila8½23½M’Nzila is a large scattered village tothe south, and south of J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground is undercultivation. The leading men, most of whom are Jaalin whoestablished themselves there in the Dervish time, are prosperous.Road from Sude to M’Nzila very rough and bad, good water in theKhor Goga near its source.
From M’Nzila there is a fair, though veryhilly, road leading west over the north shoulder of J. M’Nzila andsouth of J. Tone. A very deep ravine runs along the south side ofJ. M’Nzila into the valley between Dul and Kurmuk.
The descent into the valley just north ofJ. Tone is very steep.
Sh. Adingam’s Village5½29At the bottom of the valley is Sh.Adingam’s village, where there is a good water supply.
Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk severalgold washings are passed near the foot of J. Dish.
The Kurmuk village is very small andthere is little cultivation.
The road from Sh. Adingam’s is very badand stony till clear of the hills. Then there is flat, thicklywooded country.

40.—GULE to RENK.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, February, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gule (Rest house)——The track to Renk leaves Gule in aneasterly direction and for the first mile traverses cultivation,two small Selim Arab encampments are passed on the right hand;thick forest at once begins, composed chiefly of 30 feet high talh,hashab, nagba, kadad, soffar, &c., and there is a large amountof the (to camels) deadly poisonous hekabit. At this time of yearthe grass and undergrowth is burnt, but the trees are sothick[23] that they prohibit marching at night unlesswith a good moon. Riding a horse or mule one is far lessinconvenienced than if on a camel. There are fairly frequent openspaces suitable for camping grounds.
2121The dense forest ceases and more or lessscattered and much lower bush takes its place.
526The country through which the track leadsbecomes practically open.
1½27½A broad, ill-defined depression, probablya marsh in rains.
532½Tall and rather close kittr commencesinterfering somewhat with progress.
2½35The tall kittr ceases and country becomesopen.
Khor Deleib or El Sunt237A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet deep iscrossed, also known as Deleib.
138Kittr bush commences and continues forabout 2 miles, not very dense.
4½42½Dense tall kittr commences, considerablyretarding progress, and lasts for 2½ miles.
2½45Country becomes open and cultivation ispassed on left.
146Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain village ispassed and the road now runs along the side of a low, sandy ridgedotted with heglig trees, cultivation, and several Dinkavillages.
147Dinka village on right.
148Dinka village on left.
Khor Deleib or El Sunt4½52½Khor El Sunt is recrossed in twobranches.
Sheikh’s village½53Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head Sheikh atRenk.
Village1½54½Village.
Meshra Renk155½Inspector’s and police houses on bank ofWhite Nile. Headquarters of District. P.T.O.

41.—JEBELEIN to RENK (R.B.).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, March, 1902.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Khartoum.
Khartoum——
Jebelein225225Country round Jebelein is grass with laotand kittr bush in thick patches. River here 600 yards wide (dryseason), rocks showing river in places. For first mile or two afterleaving Jebelein open grass plain on E. of track, kittr bushbeyond. A few heglig trees between track and river.
Sherif2½227½Name of spot only; this name applies tocountry next two miles.
Wad Nimol Island3½231
Um Romad3½234½End of district of this name which beginswhere Sherif ends.
Maghaba1½236District only; no inhabitants. N. end ofBulli Island begins and track along khor which forms it, water onlyin places in khor.
Awad El Kerim2½238½Khor and small hill of this name. Roadalternately good and bad from kittr bush.
Debba Goda3½242J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last visiblefrom here; Sheikhs Tomb on bare hill 50 feet high.
Debba El Ghoda2¼244¼Small khor; ground slightly undulatingand rising inland.
Ganus8½252¾Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet abovetrack, no inhabitants, only a name.
Karshawal9¼262No huts or signs of permanenthabitations; a few Baggara “rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.
Old camp3½265½Old entrenched camp about 80 yards by 30yards on rising ground 200 yards from river on right hand side oftrack, good meshra.
Karshawal Island2267½Going bad on account of kittr. This islast water before reaching Agang as river makes a bendwestwards.
Agang13280½Dinka villages of Nyitau and Manjak,generally called Agang.
Renk3283½Good meshra. Police Post. Mosquitoes hereare very bad. Advisable to encamp inland near Dinka villages.Telegraph and Post office here.

42.—RENK to KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B.

By Captain H. H. Morant, March, 1902.

General.The road described below runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the river about 8-10 miles to the W.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Khartoum.
Khartoum——
Renk283½283½A meshra on the W.Nile with inspector’s house and police tukls. The road at firstleads in a S.E. direction, and after 2 miles Khor Deleib 30 feetwide and about 6 to 10 feet deep is crossed. Another smaller khor,a branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ mile further on. The road now runsalongside a wide khor or branch of the Nile named Gaza El Abiad.The track to Gule branches off in a S.E. direction. Numerous Dinkavillages are passed about a mile E. of the road (which is excellentgoing), and continue at intervals until after passing Sheikh BakhitNiok’s (a released slave from Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A fewShilluk villages are passed on the island called Wad Ab Kona,formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and White Nile. This khor at High Nileis probably 300 yards to 600 yards wide, but now (March) it isnowhere more than 300 and fordable nearly everywhere. There aremany wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the people are mostly SelimBaggara living in temporary encampments about a mile inland for thegrazing.
Khor Deleib2285½
¾286¼
Warrit9295¼
Um Hedeida11¼306½The encampments now cease and the waterin the khor gradually decreases until at Um Hedeida, water isstagnant and only in small quantities. The country on E. of trackwhich always follows the eastern bank of khor, is covered with 3feet high grass (where not burnt), and scattered bush and no signsof cultivation are visible.
3309½Water reappears in the khor, and thereare Selim encampments to the E. of the track.
Leungtom or Domaia3½313At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or Domaia(Arab) the Nile is approached again for the first time since Renk.About 1½ miles inland are the villages of Kolang, El Wat, &c.,under Sheikh Salem Banga (also a released slave from Cairo). Acertain amount of cultivation is visible and the country istolerably open. Soon after leaving the meshra, the track followsthe eastern bank of a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. The Arab namefor it varies with the districts it traverses. The Dinka name wasnot obtained. On the W. of the track is a fringe of thick talhbush, to the E. the country is fairly open.
Debba El Zawia4317The first dom palms are met here. ThisDebba is the commencement of the Nabagaia district.
Dinka village, Anok2½319½A village, Anok, belonging to AgweimDinkas, is passed about ¾ miles to E. on a slight elevation andthick talh bush commences on both sides of the track. This villageappears to depend on the river for its water supply.
The bush gradually develops into talh andheglig forest. There is good shade all along the khor and thetrack, as it has been throughout, is excellent; the trees along theroute cause little inconvenience.
Tereiba (Arab)9328½Nabagaia district ends and Tereibabegins, and is marked by the reappearance of dom palms.
2330½An excellent mid-day camping ground, goodshade and water in the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible from nearhere.
Debba Ibrahim Sharak (Arab)3333½Dense forestcontinues until reaching this slight elevation (called after a manwho was killed by an elephant here), and commences again afterabout a mile of open ground, and the district of El Ragal (Arab)begins, and the khor now takes that name.
El Ragal (Arab)——
Track leading to Kash Kash (Arab andDinka)2½336A track branches off eastwards and issaid to lead to a Dinka village or district called Kash Kash 15-20miles from the river. There are said to be wells there. The bush orforest after leaving Debba Ibrahim Sharak up to this point isunpleasantly thick, especially for night travelling, but here thebush ceases to cause any inconvenience.
Goz Abu Teiba3¾339¾A slight elevation; amile further on the road was left and Khor Sangeir about 100 yardswide and now (March) dry, was crossed.
Khor Sangeir or Rau¾340½
Khor Messangeir1341½This khor wouldprobably be a considerable obstacle in the rains, and would have tobe crossed some distance up. After a good rainy season the peoplein the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which is about 15 miles further upare said to drink from it until well on into the dry season. A milefurther on Khor Messangeir or Mariu, or Balantega, a rather smallerkhor is crossed. J. Ahmed Agha or Biba about 300 feet above theplain. There are several Dinka and Selim Arab villages in theneighbourhood, but no one lives here during the rains. The Dinkasthen retire inland and the Arabs to districts N. of the fly limit.From Ahmed Agba there is a little used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit,which is visible from the top of the Jebel, and is described asbeing distant two days without water. Sheikh Jok is the DinkaSheikh here and Akwé acts for him when absent. There are many dompalms around the Jebel. Water is obtained from Khor Biba or AhmedAgha, the river which here bends S.W., is about 1 mile W. ofit.
J. Ahmed Agha orBiba1342½
Heglig or Tau3345½Is the name of thedistrict which extends for about 6 miles opposite to Gezira WadBeiker on the northern end of which is a Shilluk village EdorGamoia. Marbeit (Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the name of the nextdistrict.
Gezira Wad Beiker2347½
Edor Gamoia——
Marbeit or Shakab2½350
1½351½The road which has been skirting thebranch of the Nile (about 30 yards wide) for about the last 4 milesnow ceases to do so, and a grassy plain which at High Nile must bea swamp intervenes between it and the river.
Ial Gamus——A Shilluk village on the island. TheSheikh after whom the village is named, is a refugee fromCairo.
Kwé4½ ½356A Dinka Farikh.
Alumbul½356½Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country roundis fairly open, scattered kitr and naal grass. Both these villagesare under the control of Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.
Meshra Zeraf1½358The meshra extendsfor about 2 miles; the road skirts the river and crosses a wide,shallow khor called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Arabs. It is said tocome from near Aturuk.
Farlegh Meshra Zeraf or Makwé2360
Rom (Dinka) or UmGursan3363Dinka villages named Rom under SheikhJok. The district is known by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the trackfrom Renk to this point is as a rule excellent, but from here toKaka it is generally bad, passing over very hard caked and badlycracked cotton soil.
2365Fine kuk and other trees are passed. Thesmall black fly was exceptionally bad here in the early morning andattacked the camels in swarms.
Tereiti4369The district of Tereiti begins. Ardeib ElMiriam (Arab) is the district on opposite bank.
Meshra Rom orTereiti3372Meshra Rom or Tereiti.
Dinka villages, Fil and Ajak3375Villages belonging to Adeir Dinkas. Riverabout 1 mile E. of track, to the W. the country is more or lessopen with patches of bush and trees in places.
Dinka villages, Nakwé and Fithi7382Villages under Sheikh Akol WadAshol.
Jung Yom¾382¾Dinka villages under Akol. The river isnow about 2 miles away, right of road.
Debba Shagerat1¼384Arab name for knollon right of point where road bends westwards and crosses a marshy(in rains) plain to Sheikh Akol’s village about 1 mile from riveropposite Kaka, where there are many Shilluk villages. The Arab namefor this marshy district is Shagerat El Ashera, and Dinka LoingShuk.
Debeik2386
Shagerat El Ashera or LoingShuk (opposite Kaka)——
Ajok2¾388¾Skirting an openmarshy (in rains) plain on right and following line of trees onleft, Dinka village named Ajok is reached. Tracks now becomenumerous and ill defined, and one was followed which led across anopen marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of Kaka, woodstation, known as Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village is situatedclose to the river bank.
Kaka, old wood station6¼405

43.—RENK to opposite KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, December, 1902, January and February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Renk——Track taken depends on thetime of the year. Up to January inland track must be followed owingto water on the lower.
Telegraph Hill11On sandy hill near river;village of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka from Bahr El Ghazal. Fromhere the track follows the telegraph line for some miles.
Khor Deleib½1½Merely a dry ditch in the dryseason; another dry branch is passed about 300 yards further on.Country here is open grass land; few small trees.
2½4Thin forest of laot thornbush and small heglig trees.
Gaikwach37A village of the Akudistrict, Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another small village 300 yardsfurther on.
1½8½Position of old Dinkavillage.
Kelang2½11Small village of this name,left.
Loingwen½11½Beginning of village ofLoingwen, which comprises five small ones, all under Sheikh BakhitNiok. From here along the lower road there are no villages beforeElwat, and travellers must halt near water.
Bangdit1½13Sandy debba; no habitations.Scene of a former fight between Dinkas and Government troops. Thetrack now descends to the bank of the khor that divides Island ofGaza-el-Abiad from the mainland and runs for the next 5 miles onhigh sandy ridge within 500 yards of the water. Guinea fowl andgazelle in abundance; a few tetel seen, and tracks of antelope,hippo, and buffalo. A good deal of kittr near track since Bangdit.No large trees.
Lardbiu2½15½Sandy debba on left.
2½18Good camping ground.
Abiad Shwai119High sandy debba, which usedto be covered with big tamarind trees which have now gone. Shortesttrack is now along telegraph line, but is probably impassable inthe rains. Leave khor on right. Country bushy with small hegligtrees and some kittr.
3¾22¾Sandy hill on right. Tracknow crosses open plain of black cotton soil, covered with rankgrass.
Elwat5¼28Beginning of Elwat, districtof Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga.
129Salem’s own village, about 2miles from the river. This is the first meshra since leaving Renk.High debba between this village and the river.
From Elwat the track runsalternately through open ground and patches of bush and red talh toAnak.
Anak5½34½Village of Gi-el district.Three small villages. The local Sheikh Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runsthrough bush and thick forest for many miles. Lower track desertedby Dinkas, who follow the line now, as being shorter.
Mabiu3½38High debba on right on edgeof khor. Track along the khor is close to line here; now get intothe land of big trees.
Dungbiagadet1½39½Debba on right.
Allal2½42Debba. Beginning of Allaldistrict, which exists in name only. Arab name Tereiba. Many thickdom palms.
1¼43¼Debba Allal.
Ragal1¼44½Beginning of district ofRagal. No people.
Debba Ragal1¼45¾Debba Ragal, about 200 yardsfrom khor. Little game seen here, though plenty of fresh tracks ofelephant, buffalo, &c.
Kefali¼46Debba. Many dom palms. Thiswas site of old Dinka village. Open park land, which soon changesto very thick forest; open again after 1 mile.
248First view of Jebel AhmedAgha from track.
149Forest of red talh; old Dinkaelephant pits, and many skulls of these beasts.
3¼52¼Track divides, one going onto the jebel and the other eastwards—inland. This latter goes tothe Dinka district of Baanwen, which lies up Khor Rau. A track usedto exist to Goz Kash-Kash, but is now said to be “dead.”
Khor Rau¼52½Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyondbend in the telegraph line; 40-feet waterway, 3 feet deep;unfordable for loaded transport animals on account of mud(December).
Jebel Ahmed Agha254½The route followed will beseen by comparison to be several miles shorter than the old trackpreviously sketched by other officers. Shortest track is now alongline, though the going on the lower tortuous native track isbetter.
Goz Unaché2¼56¾Highridge of ground on left, used to be thickly populated by KwachDinkas. Whole track is through dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk,kittr, and talh, except at Mile 62, where there is a broad openplain.
5¼62
Meshra Zeraf7⅝69⅝Also called Mukhada Zeraf. NoDinka villages here, though there are some old cattle zeribas.These change yearly—last year’s spot was called Anambul. Some Dinkarefugees are, however, going to build this year on the meshra,which is well suited for purposes of being irrigated by shadufs orsakias. This is the first meshra since Elwat, and the last untilKaka old wood station, though in the dry season Meshra Rom becomesa meshra.
Jungle around Meshra Zeraf ismostly kittr.
Khor Makwé1¾71⅜600-800yards wide, and even in dry season impassable, for some way up. Indry season a track exists from here to Kaka wood station by theriver bank. The track to the Dinka villages, however, runs up thiskhor till Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves the khor and runs offsouthwards over a grass plain. Khor Makwé runs on to Aturuk, adeserted Dinka village.
4¾76⅛
Khor Turiak1½77⅝Track runs along this khor,and 1 mile further on crosses it. Arab name for this khor isFo-alig.
¾78⅜Enter forest now, whichconsists of trees and kittr bush, alternately with occasionalpatches of park-like land, for the next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is onthe left of track till spot where track crosses it, and this khorwinds about on right of track till Mile 89⅛.
Gi-ka-kiu11¾89⅛This is the chief village ofRom, and this is the name generally used, though the people speakof the grazing grounds near the river as Rom, probably denotingthat it is the grazing of the Rom people. Sheikh Jok WadAgeir.
Debba Fajak493⅛Site of old village.
Kolerang1¼94⅝Small village, part ofRom.
Bafing195⅝Small village, part of Rom.Trees on horizon. Cross khor here.
2¾98⅜Cattle zeriba left, belongsto Fiti (see later).
Gio1¼100⅝Large village of Gio, ofdistrict of Ageir, also called Faloich (name of the spot). Villageof the Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad Shol. Good wells here thatsuffice for the needs of all the inhabitants all the year round,but not for all their cattle. From Gio the track runs W. toDemtemma along a well-defined ridge for several miles; villagescluster thickly along this ridge. Khor Kayaluk runs on left oftrack.
1½102⅛One of the villages of Beiacan be seen from here left. Trees 2 miles off right. Thick bush 1mile left on other side of khor.
Debba Mioriak2104⅛Debba Mioriak on left.
Ai-yowel¾104⅞Village of Ageir on rightwith one big tree on east edge. Village of Kil 1½ miles offhalf-right. Village of Makwé is behind Kil in the forest.
Jung-yom1½106⅝Village, part of Ageir, onright. Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in bed of khor, available atall period of dry seasons. Travelling is now most uninteresting, novillages and hardly a tree to be seen.
Debba Fadiet4110⅝Site of an old village. Vastgrass plain on every side; not a tree or a bush to be seen, even onthe horizon.
Debba Fojbe3¼113⅞Site of another oldvillage.
Demtemma7120⅞Situated in belt of trees onriver bank. Was till recently a police post, but latter has nowbeen moved to Melut, 3 miles down stream, to where the telegraphoffice is.
1½122⅜Track crosses dry khor whichwould be a considerable obstacle in the rains.
1⅝124Cattle zeriba of Beia onbanks of Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide here and 4 feet deep,muddy bottom, clean banks. A big debba on south side of the khor,and 1 mile from the mouth of the khor. Broad swamp on right oftrack.
2⅝126⅝Track descends to river bank;thick bush most of the way on left of track.
Tiang-rial4⅜131A cattle zeriba of Beia left.Backwater or small lake between track and river. Island in river,north end.
½131½Thick bush left.
½132End of backwater. March onriver bank; track winds along river bank, occasionally through verybad kittr bush, which can be avoided in places by marching alongthe foreshore.
5⅜137⅜Big ardeib tree—conspicuouslandmark; backwater between tree and river. After 2 miles the bushceases, and track lies over an open grass plain.
4¼141⅝Cattle zeriba of village ofBekjuka (Beia). Name of locality Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts hereand runs between track and river all the way to just south ofFashoda.
1¾143⅜Cattle zeriba of Bawen andAddora, of district of Ni-el. There are three other zeribas betweenthese last two points.
Mialek3¾147⅛Cattle zeriba of Bawen(Ni-el).
Fanomdit2½149⅝Debba and cattle zeriba ofdistrict of Dunjol.
Faloich1150⅝Debba and cattle zeriba ofNi-el.
Wunakoch½151⅛Cattle zeriba of Dunjol.
¾151⅞Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bushon right between track and khor.
Jomweira——Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100yards further on. Track now crosses broad shallow khor 2 mileswide.
1152⅞Bush right; grass plainleft.
½153⅜Track enters bush right,leaving khor left. Forest of red talh and heglig, which continues2½ miles to Mile 157⅛.
Faldiar Rowe3¾157⅛Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Trackleaving this zeriba crosses a shallow khor and passes through athin belt of forest on to the bank of khor.
Khor Awilwil1⅛158¼Awilwil, from whence Kodokcan be seen for the first time. Track runs southwards along bank ofkhor for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, and path is over vast, open,undulating plain.
Debba Denkar½158¾Good high debba.
1⅛159⅞Track bifurcates here, onefollowing khor and going to Ayung’s zeriba (see later),and the other running through the Dinka villages of Dunjol. Theformer track is the shorter by 2 or 3 miles.
Amai-rial (opposite to Kodok)1¾161⅝Village of Dunjol districtwhich is spread over a vast plain opposite Kodok.
Amaal1¼162⅞
Fiuweia1⅛164¼
Ateptiap3⅜167⅜
Khor Wol⅛167½Track crosses this khor whichhas water in it in pools and excavations for 10 miles up. Can beascended by small steamers at high Nile. French steamers used toascend in 1898.
1⅜168⅞Large cattle zeriba of SheikhAyung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. This spot is almost due south ofKodok. Between the river and this track is a broad swamp and theformidable khor Awilwil. From here a track runs inland through theremaining villages of Dunjol, keeping in touch with Khor Awilwilall the way, passing through or past the following villages andplaces:—
Mile2¼.Wunfit, debba with few trees.
„3¼.Faiung, village.
„4⅜.Wumakoch,village.
„6¼.Tallen,„
„8¼.Fanakwé,„
„9¾.Fakok,„
„10½.Ang-ak,„
„12.Fobodiet,„
„14.Temohuk,„
„16.„
eventually running to theSobat River, which it joins near the Dinka district of Gnok.
1¼170⅛Cattle zeriba of Fakwé.
Diem Ajak¾170⅞Debba 600 yards right. Bushcommences 200 yards further on. Khor Awilwil runs into the Nilesomewhere here by native report.
1¾172⅝Cattle zeriba of Fadweia.Track is good and winds along the khor, which runs from near whereAwilwil joined the Nile to the south.
Wuntao2¼174⅞Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Nameof the locality as well as the village to which the people belong.The Shilluk Mek’s village is due west.
Meshra Merial2¾177⅝Said to be practicable allthe year round as a means of communication between Dinka andShilluk banks. Shilluk village Kwom opposite. Great numbers ofpartridges all along here, affording excellent sport walking themup.
The track along here is allgood going and would be quite passable in the rains.
2¼179⅞Cattle zeriba of Fadok(Dunjol).
Diwot1¼181⅛First Shilluk village metwith on this (east) bank. End of the Dinka country on theriver.

44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA to AWITONG and KASH-KASH.