THE
HISTORY
OF THE
ISLAND OF DOMINICA.

CONTAINING

A DESCRIPTION OF ITS SITUATION, EXTENT,
CLIMATE, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS,
NATURAL PRODUCTIONS, &c. &c.

TOGETHER WITH

AN ACCOUNT OF THE CIVIL GOVERNMENT, TRADE, LAWS,
CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE DIFFERENT
INHABITANTS OF THAT ISLAND. ITS CONQUEST
BY THE FRENCH, AND RESTORATION
TO THE BRITISH DOMINIONS.

By THOMAS ATWOOD.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, NO. 72, ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD.

M DCC XCI.

INTRODUCTION.

IT is greatly to be lamented, that although the island of Dominica is so very capable of being rendered one of the chief, if not the best, the English have in the West Indies; yet, from a want of knowledge of its importance, or inattention, it is at this time almost as much unsettled, as when it was ceded to Great Britain, near thirty years ago.

This is the more remarkable, from the great consequence the possession of it is to the English, in case of a rupture with France, it being the key of the British dominions in that part of the world, and from its situation between the two principal settlements of the French, Martinique and Guadeloupe, it is the only place in the West Indies, by which there is a possibility for Great Britain to maintain the sovereignty of those seas.

It has moreover many conveniences for the service of both an army and fleet, which few other West India islands can boast; and was it to be well settled with British subjects, would be of material assistance to our other possessions, by furnishing them with many articles of which they very often are greatly in need.

For the purpose of bringing forth to view these capabilities of Dominica, the following history of that island is submitted to the candid perusal of a generous public by the author; whose chief inducement for writing it, was his hope, that it might be some small means of service to a country, in which he has spent several years of his life, and the prosperity of which, it is his ardent wish to see speedily promoted.

The history of distant settlements belonging to Great Britain, it is presumed, cannot fail of being acceptable to every Englishman who wishes well to his country; and however deficient this essay of his may be, in point of erudition, correctness, or correspondent circumstances, yet, from its being the first on the subject, the author hopes it may meet with a favourable reception.

It falls not within the compass of this work to enter into details of acts of the legislature, the conduct of governors, or of individuals of that island; these he leaves for a more extensive work, or for abler pens to record; and if what is here submitted to public perusal serve in the least to promote the welfare of the present and future inhabitants of Dominica, and thereby the interests of the British nation at large, the purpose of the author by this publication will be fully answered.

London, May 1791.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

Description of the island, its situation, extent, climate, and other subjects; together with an account of the conquest of it, its cession to Great Britain, and the disposal of the lands by the crown.

CHAP. II.

Description of the soil, mountains, and woods; of valuable timber, and other trees; also of the birds of the woods peculiar to the island.

CHAP. III.

Of the rivers and lakes in the island, river and fresh water fish, also of sea fish, land crabs, and a description of the native quadruped, and other animals.

CHAP. IV.

Of the most remarkable reptiles and insects of the island, their venomous and other qualities, with remarks.

CHAP. V.

An account of the different articles of West India produce raised in the island; the number of sugar and coffee plantations therein, with remarks.

CHAP. VI.

Names and descriptions of particular West India fruits which grow in the island; also of European and American fruits, herbs, vegetables, and flowers; with observations on their properties, &c.

CHAP. VII.

Of the trade of the island, previous to its reduction by the French last war, with a relation of that circumstance; and the articles of capitulation to which it surrendered.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the government of the island under the French, with a relation of the distressed situation of the English inhabitants, until its restoration to Great Britain; an account of that event, and several other subjects.

CHAP. IX.

An account of the division of the island into parishes and towns, with a description of its capital, the principal buildings, fortifications, and harbour; together with observations on Prince Rupert’s Bay, and the grand Savannah in that island.

CHAP. X.

The civil government, officers, courts, and other subjects relative to them; also a description of the militia of that island.

CHAP. XI.

Description of the white inhabitants, free people of colour, and native Indians of the island; their manners and customs, with observations.

CHAP. XII.

Of the negro slaves of this island, their rebellion and reduction, the usage, manners, customs, and characters of these people in general in the West Indies.

CHAP. XIII.

Of the present trade of the island, and the free port of Roseau, with remarks. Conclusion.

THE

H I S T O R Y

OF THE

ISLAND OF DOMINICA.

CHAPTER I.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND, ITS SITUATION, EXTENT, CLIMATE AND OTHER SUBJECTS; TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF IT, ITS CESSION TO GREAT BRITAIN, AND THE DISPOSAL OF THE LANDS BY THE CROWN.

THE island of Dominica is situated in 15 degrees, 25 minutes, north latitude; 61 degrees, 15 minutes, west longitude from London; and 43 degrees, 40 minutes, from Ferro.

The discovery of this Island was claimed by the three kingdoms, of England, France, and Spain; but the right of possession remained undecided, and Dominica was considered as a neutral island, by three Crowns; till the year 1759, when, by conquest, it fell under the dominion of Great Britain; and was afterwards ceded to England, by the treaty of peace concluded at Paris, in February 1763.

On the cession of the island to the English, Commissioners were appointed under the Great Seal, and sent out there with authority, to sell and dispose of the lands by public sale, to English subjects, in allotments. “Of not more than one hundred acres of such land as was cleared; and not exceeding three hundred acres in woods, to any one person, who should be the best bidder for the same.” These allotments were disposed of for the benefit of the Crown, and were confirmed to the purchaser, by grants, under the Great Seal of England; with conditions in each grant, “That every purchaser should pay down twenty per cent of the whole purchase money, together with sixpence sterling per acre, for the expence of surveying the land; and that, the remainder of the purchase money should be secured by bonds; to be paid by equal installments, in the space of five years, next after the date of the grant. That, each purchaser should keep on the lands so by him purchased, one white man, or two white women for every hundred acres of land, as it became cleared; for the purpose of cultivating the same. Or in default thereof, or non payment of the remainder of the purchase money, the lands were to be forfeited to his Majesty, his heirs and successors.”

The Commissioners were also impowered to execute leases to the French inhabitants, of such lands as were found in their possession at the time of the surrender of the island; and which lands were thus leased to those inhabitants, who were desirous of keeping them in possession, on consideration of their taking the oaths of allegiance to his Britannic Majesty.

These leases were executed for a term, not less than seven, some fourteen, and others for forty years absolute; renewable at the time limitted for the expiration of the same. With conditions in every lease, “That the possessor, his heirs or assigns, should pay to his Majesty, his heirs or successors, the sum of two shillings sterling per annum, for every acre of land, of which the lease should consist.” “And, that they should not sell or dispose of their lands, without the consent and approbation of the Governor, or Commander in chief of that island, for the time being.”

The Commissioners were likewise impowered to make grants, under the Great Seal, of lots to poor settlers; to such English subjects, as should be deemed fit objects of his Majesty’s bounty; in allotments of not more than thirty acres of land, to any one person. With authority also to the said Commissioners, to reserve and keep such lands, in the most convenient parts of the island as they should think proper for fortifications, and the use of his Majesty’s army, and navy. Together with a boundary of fifty feet from the sea shore, round the whole island; and reserving all mines, of gold and silver, which might thereafter be discovered there, for the use of his Majesty, his heirs and successors[1].

This island is 29 miles in length, and 16 miles in breadth, but in some parts it is broader, being of a very irregular figure. It is rugged and mountainous in some parts; but spacious plains, and fine extensive vallies are interspersed throughout the island, which are in general very productive.

The climate of this country is hot at times, in places on the sea coast, that are much sheltered by mountains; but in the open parts of the island, at no great distance from the sea shore, it is moderately cool at most times, and greatly resembles the climate of England, in summer. This is occasioned by the almost constant breezes blowing from the mountains, which moderating the heat, render it more supportable than it is, in those islands of the West Indies that are more level. In the interior mountainous parts, it is perfectly cool in general; owing to the vast quantity of tall woods, and the heavy rains which fall in those places, in some part or other almost every day; which render it so cold, in the night especially, that people who reside there are obliged to use woollen coverings on their beds, in the same quantity as in winter time in England[2].

The climate is, however, reckoned very wholesome, especially in those places where invalids usually go for the recovery of their health, which is frequently re-established by a few weeks residence there. Besides, a good breeze generally blows from the mountains most part of the day, which greatly moderates the heat on the sea coast; and persons who live there temperately are seldom afflicted with the disorders, incident to most other West India islands.

The wet season in this country commonly sets in about the end of August, and continues till about the beginning of January, but with frequent intervals of fine weather. The severity of the rainy season, is usually in the months of September and October, when very heavy continual rain falls for days together; nay, it has been known to fall there for two or three weeks at a time, with very little intermission. The island, however, is seldom without rain, in some part or other; and often during a promising day, the disappointed traveller meets with such sudden, and heavy showers, that in an instant wet him to the skin, nor is an umbrella or great coat of much service, the rain falling in such large drops, and often accompanied with such severe gusts of wind, that the umbrella is rather an inconvenience; but let him be careful to change his wet cloaths as soon as possible, for inconsideration, in this respect, has proved fatal to many in this climate.

When the rains are violent and of long continuance, they do great mischief in the island, among the plantations; carrying away large tracts of land with coffee, plantain trees, sugar canes, and ground provisions; which are all hurried into the sea. In the towns also, they often do much damage, causing the rivers to overflow their banks, or breaking out in fresh places, carry away houses, or whatever else stands in the way of these dreadful torrents.

Thunder and lightening is seldom so severe in Dominica, or does so much damage there as in many other parts of the West Indies; although there have been some instances of lightening striking vessels in the road, damaging houses and killing people; but such instances are very rare.

Nor are earthquakes, those alarming phænomena of nature, so frequent, or so destructive in this, as in many other West India islands; yet, it is asserted by some of the first inhabitants, that earthquakes happened here formerly very frequently; especially soon after the English first took possession of the country; when they were felt severely, several times in a day, for the space of some weeks together, which so terrified the inhabitants, that they were on the point of quitting the place, but happily they soon subsided. These people say likewise, that although no material damage happened at that time, yet that the island was split in several places; and in particular, a large chasm was made in a mountain there called Demoulins, so very deep, that though they attempted with several coils of cordage spliced together, yet they were unable to fathom it. There is, however, no appearance left of that remarkable circumstance, which yet by no means contradicts the veracity of their report.

Hurricanes, those dreadful scourges of the West Indies, are seldom very severe in Dominica; and in comparison with the mischief they generally do in other islands, may more properly be termed only heavy gusts of wind, especially when compared with the destruction done by that in the Leward islands the first of September, 1772; the most dreadful one that for some time has been felt in the West Indies. In the hurricane season, the damage received in Dominica is principally occasioned by the very heavy rains, or by the sea, which sometimes in those seasons tumbles into the bays, especially that of Roseau, in a very frightful manner; and making on the shore, overwhelms the vessels that unfortunately happen to be there at anchor; and sweeps away the houses, or whatever else is in the way of its destructive force.

A particular circumstance of this kind, which happened there the last day of September, 1780, was the most remarkable that has occurred in this island, in the memory of the oldest inhabitant, and did the most mischief. It did considerable damage among the plantations, and in Roseau destroyed several houses on the bay, and several vessels in the road.

The effects of these hurricanes in the West Indies are truly astonishing; for the wind, with a fury hardly credible, blowing from different points at one and the same instant, carries all before it; the rain is as it were taken out of the sea, and hurled on the land in clouds; which from not having time to exhale, is as salt as the briny element from which it was driven; and falls in drops as large as hail stones, affecting the hands and naked face, in the same manner as a severe hail storm; the whole of the scene is truly alarming and beyond description dreadful.

The mornings and evenings in Dominica are in general remarkably pleasant and cool; that is to say, from day break till eight o’clock in the morning, and between five and six o’clock till bed time in the evening. Early in the morning is the time, when those who can afford it, and wish to preserve their healths, will do well to employ their leisure time till breakfast, either riding on horseback, or taking a walk, to enjoy the cool, enlivening breezes. Bathing, previous to these exercises, is also the best preservative of health, and here people have the opportunity of doing it either in the rivers or in the sea.

Frequently bathing in cold water is productive of much benefit to persons in warm climates; as, exclusive of that which arises from cleanliness, so necessary in hot countries, it braces the nerves, and keeps the body refreshingly cool the whole day after. By taking a ride there on horseback, a person in the space of half an hour is transported from an uncomfortable warm air on the sea coast, to a pleasantly cool retreat in the interior parts of the country; which, in an evening especially, he may leisurely enjoy, till disposed to return to town; when the breezes, by that time set in to blow from the mountains, permit him to sleep the remainder of the night in cool tranquillity.

The taking a morning or evening’s walk in this island, by the sides of the rivers, whose glassy surface glides swiftly on, or murmuring water-falls foam to the view, is very pleasing. Does fancy lead him to enjoy the scene, a mile or two, he still finds ample amusement. Viewing the rapid streams, he sees the silvered fry, sporting on its surface, in astonishing numbers. The serpentine windings of the rivers in some parts; in others, the waters wide, deep, and silently flowing along; and in many places, numberless falls of water, tumbling down the sides of steep precipices, or rushing over the tops of huge stones in the beds of the rivers, at once charm both the sight and hearing. Is he fond of the delightful study of botany; here an extensive field is open for his speculation, and numberless curious shrubs, plants, and flowers, that grow spontaneously, afford him ample scope for enquiry?

Rising early in a morning in this country, you have the delightful pleasure of exploring the wonders of the heavens; the morning star, with a rapidity that exceeds all bounds of conception, running its daily course; the sun emerging from the sea, all glorious to behold; and in the words of the Psalmist, “Coming forth like a bridegroom out of his chamber;” and all the lesser planets twinkling into obscurity. In the evening in Dominica, is the most amazingly glorious scenery that can possibly be imagined; the heavens bespangled with innumerable stars, which the dense climate of Europe hides from mortal sight, or which are but barely to be distinguished, are in this island open to full view; and the lovers of astronomy have there an opportunity to make new discoveries in that science.

In the evenings, although the air is cool, yet it is not accompanied by those noxious vapours, so remarkable for their dangerous effects in some parts of the West Indies; so that it is not uncommon for people in this Island to sit whole evenings in the open air, without any detriment to their healths.

CHAPTER II.

DESCRIPTION OF THE SOIL, MOUNTAINS, AND WOODS OF VALUABLE TIMBER, AND OTHER TREES: ALSO OF THE BIRDS OF THE WOODS, PECULIAR TO THE ISLAND.

The Soil of Dominica, in some places, is a light, brown-coloured mould, that appears to have been washed down from the mountains, and mixed with decayed branches, and leaves of trees. In the level country, towards the sea coast, and in many places of the interior parts, it is a fine, deep, black mould, which is peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of the sugar cane, coffee, cocoa, and all other articles of West India produce. The under stratum of the soil is a yellow, or brick clay, in some parts, in others it is a stiff tarrace; but it is in most parts very stoney.

The land is in general very productive, especially in the interior parts, but towards the sea coast, it requires to be frequently manured; because the surface of it usually opens into large chasms in dry weather, thereby exposing the soil to the excessive heat of the sun; so that its vegetative quality can only be restored by dunging. This, however, is not very easily done by the greater part of the planters; because they have not in general a sufficient number of cattle on their plantations, in proportion to the land under cultivation, of the sugar cane in particular; from whence, in a great measure, and to the want of negroes, is to be attributed the small quantity of sugar exported from this settlement to England.

Several of the mountains of this island are continually burning with sulphur, of which they emit vast quantities. From these mountains issue numbers of springs of mineral water, whose virtues are extolled for the cure of many disorders; in some places the water is so very hot, as to boil an egg, &c. in less time than boiling water, and this heat is retained at some distance from its source.

These sulphureous mountains are certainly among the most wonderful phænomena of nature, and command our astonishment and admiration. To see vast tracts of land on fire, whose smoke, like clouds, stretches far around; brimstone in flames, like streams of water issuing from the sides of precipices; in the vallies large holes full of bituminous matter, boiling and bubbling like a caldron; the earth trembling under the tread, and bursting out with loud explosions, are objects truly terrific to the beholders; who, on the spot, are struck with awe and admiration, on viewing such dreadful works of the Almighty, who causes them to exist, for purposes only known by him[3].

Others of the mountains are exceedingly large and high, whose summits, sides and feet are covered with vast tall woods, which together with the under woods, are so crouded as to be almost impervious to the eye, and that for several miles around. From the tops and sides of these descend numberless springs and water-falls, which form the most delightfully romantic cascades, of fine, cool, wholesome water, as clear as crystal, excepting in places where it is tinctured with sulphur.

The woods of Dominica, which constitute nearly two thirds of the island at present, including the parts that are incapable of cultivation, on account of steep and rugged mountains, afford a vast fund of excellent timber: consisting of locus-wood, bullet-tree, mastic, cinnamon, rose-wood, yellow-sanders, bastard-mahogany, iron-wood, several species of cedar, and various other sorts of wood, useful for building houses, vessels and canoes, for furniture, for dying, and other necessary purposes.

In the woods, an awful, yet pleasing solitariness prevails; but that which makes them the more agreeably romantic, is the noise of falling waters, the whistling of the wind among the trees, the singing and chirping of an innumerable quantity of birds among the branches, and the uncommon cries of various kinds of harmless insects, which together with the dark shadiness of the trees, form a solemn but delightful scene for contemplation.

The trees in the woods are of uncommon height, and by far exceed in loftiness the tallest trees in England. In this island their tops seem to touch the clouds, which appear as if skimming swiftly over their upper branches, and looking up the trees is painful to the eye. Many of the trees are like wise of enormous girt, and their spreading boughs extend far around; those of the fig-tree especially, under whose inviting shade hundreds at a time may repose themselves, without fear of being wet by the heaviest shower of rain, or dread of the influence of the scorching sun-beams.

In the woods the trees are, in common, covered with different foliage, so that it is usual to see one tree dressed out with the rich liveries of several, all growing in beautiful variety: the trunk and branches, covered with ivy and other plants, growing on them like house-leeks.

That the leaves of different trees should be found on one tree, is an object worthy of speculation; but yet, in my opinion, is no other way to be accounted for, than by supposing that the seeds of different trees, being scattered by the wind, fall into the heart of the same plant, like house-leeks, and are thus incorporated into the tree on which they are seen growing.

The different species of ivy, or rather wild vines, in the woods, grow to a great size, and have the appearance of so many cords, or thick ropes, fastened to the branches. Some of these are very tough, strong, and useful; and hoops, baskets, and other wicker utensils are made of them: also walking-sticks, called supple-jacks, which, if cut in the proper season, are very durable, and so pliant, that both ends may be bent together without breaking them. These being in general regularly knotted, and of a good polish, are much admired for walking-sticks, or to use on horseback instead of whips; for both which purposes many of them are frequently sent to England, where they are well known.

Among other valuable trees in the woods of Dominica is the gum-tree, which yields great quantities of that article. The circumference of the body of this tree is generally very great, and its timber is, on that account, made into canoes; which is done by digging or burning out the inside, and shaping the log into form. The gum falls from the body and branches of the tree in great quantities, in substance like white wax, and was very serviceable to the planters of that island, during the time it was in possession of the French last war; this gum being used instead of oil, which could not then be had, to burn in lamps in the boiling houses when making sugar. The Romish priests of this island use it likewise in their censers at funerals, and other ceremonies of their church, it having a very aromatic smell when burning; and it is supposed to contain virtues which might be valuable in medicines, was it better known.

The timber also of this tree, as well as that of several others in the woods, makes good shingles for covering of houses, and was very serviceable for making staves for sugar and coffee casks, at the time the Americans refused supplying the English colonies with them. Several fine sloops and schooners have likewise been built of the timber of this island; and the vessels that have been built of it are esteemed preferable, both for strength and durability, to others built of timber imported from North America.

Cabbage trees are in great plenty in Dominica, and are very serviceable on the plantations, as their trunks sawed, or split, make good laths or rails for cattle-pens, being very durable: the branches and leaves are used for thatching of houses; and the cabbage part of them is excellent eating. These trees are of great height, have much the appearance of the cocoa-nut tree, and bear a berry much like a date. The cabbage part is in the top, whence it is taken after the tree is cut down; and when that part is boiled it is equally as good, and tastes much like the bottom part of an artichoke. It also makes a very good pickle, some of which is often sent to England as presents.

The woods of Dominica abound with wild pigeons, mountain doves, ring-neck doves, ground doves, partridges, mackaws, parrots, hawks, diablotins, and a variety of singing and other small birds; among which is the mountain whistler, the thrush, and wren: from the singing, whistling, and chirping of which, the woods resound in a most delightful manner.

The wild pigeon is of the size of the common house pigeon, has a red bill and legs, and its feathers are of a dark blue, tinged with a gold colour. They build on the tops of the highest trees, lay only two eggs at a sitting, but hatch several times in the season, which is from February to August. Their flesh is of a dark colour, and is very fat when they are in season, which is after their breeding time is over, when it has a most delicious flavour, and is greatly relished.

The mountain dove is also nearly the size of a house pigeon, has the same red-coloured bill and legs, but its feathers are of a brown colour. It differs but little from the ring-neck dove, being only a size larger, and builds its nest on trees in the mountains, or at the sides of steep precipices, where it makes a pleasing, loud, plaintive noise. The ring-neck dove builds in coverts in the woods, as does also the partridge, which is likewise a species of the dove kind, but from its great resemblance, it is called the pieddrié by the French. The flesh of the three kinds is much liked, but has a bitter taste, as has that of most other birds of the country, owing to the berries they feed on; this taste, though at first disagreeable, is soon relished by most people, and they are reckoned very wholesome. The ground dove is not much bigger than a lark when stripped of its feathers, which are of a brown colour. It has a red bill and legs, makes a pleasing plaintive noise, and when killed in season its flesh is very fat, and of a delicious flavour; for which reason it is generally called the West-India ortolon.

The mackaw is of the parrot kind, but larger than the common parrot, and makes a more disagreeable, harsh noise. They are in great plenty, as are also parrots in this island; have both of them a delightful green and yellow plumage, with a scarlet-coloured fleshy substance from the ears to the root of the bill, of which colour is likewise the chief feathers of their wings and tails. They breed on the tops of the highest trees, where they feed on the berries in great numbers together; and are easily discovered by their loud chattering noise, which at a distance resembles human voices. The mackaws cannot be taught to articulate words; but the parrots of this country may, by taking pains with them when caught young. The flesh of both is eat, but being very fat, it wastes in roasting, and eats dry and insipid; for which reason, they are chiefly used to make soup of, which is accounted very nutritive.

The hawks are of two kinds, the one of the largest size of those species, the other that of the small sort in England. They are both very ferocious, commit great depredations among the other birds in the woods, and on the plantations often destroy fowls and house pigeons.

The diablotin, so called by the French, from its uncommonly ugly appearance, is nearly the size of a duck, and is web-footed. It has a big round head, crooked bill like a hawk, and large full eyes like an owl. Its head, part of the neck, chief feathers of the wings and tail, are black; the other parts of its body are covered with a milk-white fine down; and its whole appearance is perfectly singular. They feed on fish, flying in great flocks to the sea side in the night-time; and in their flight make a disagreeable loud noise like owls: which bird they also resemble, by their dislike of making their appearance in the day-time, when they are hid in holes in the mountains, where they are easily caught. This is done by stopping up some of the holes, which lead to their hiding places, and placing empty bags over the rest, which communicate under-ground with those stopped: the birds at their usual time of going forth to seek their food in the night-time, finding their passage impeded, make to the holes covered with the bags; into which entering, they are immediately caught; and great numbers of them taken in that manner in a short time. The flesh of the diablotin is much admired by the French, who used formerly to export great quantities of them salted, to Martinique and other French islands; but the traffic was put a stop to by the Legislature of Dominica, who, by an Act made for apprehending runaway negroes, prohibited the taking of those birds: as before that time, the runaways being numerous in the woods, furnished great quantities of them, for which they had in return, from some ill-disposed white people, muskets, powder, and balls; which they made use of in murdering the English inhabitants on the plantations.

The mountain whistler is of the size of an English lark, and is remarkable only for its loud charming whistle, which resembles the human voice in the melodious notes; but which this bird varies in a most astonishing manner.

The thrush is nearly the size of that in England, and has much the same kind of whistle. The wren is also of the size and figure of those in England, and sings delightfully, especially early in the morning, and in the evening when other birds are at roost: for which reason it is by some, called the nightingale. What is remarkable of the singing birds of this country is, that they lose their singing faculties when taken, pine away and die, notwithstanding the greatest attention is paid to them.

There are also great numbers of owls in the woods of this island, and they make a most hideous, disagreeable noise in the night-time. Swallows and bats are here likewise in great plenty; the latter breeding in hollow trees and in old houses; but it has not yet been discovered where the swallows breed, or retire to; yet they are frequently seen flying in great flocks during the wet season, and their appearance is reckoned a sure token of approaching rainy weather.

Dominica is visited in the hurricane months by wild ducks, curlews, plovers, and snipes; but not in such numbers at a time, as they are usually seen in some West India islands, owing to there being very few spots of stagnated water in this island, and to the great quantity of land in it still covered with woods.

Shortly after the reduction of this island by the French last war, the Marquis Duchilleau, then Governor, prohibited the killing of game during the breeding season. This prohibition has since been made into a law, by the English Legislature of Dominica, as a circumstance highly necessary; not only to prevent the runaway negroes from trafficking with that commodity for arms and ammunition, but also to preserve the game, which would probably have become extinct, if an unlimitted power of destroying them had not been restrained.

CHAPTER III.

OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES IN THE ISLAND, RIVER AND FRESH WATER FISH, ALSO OF SEA FISH, LAND CRABS, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVE QUADRUPED, AND OTHER ANIMALS.

Dominica is well watered, there being upwards of thirty fine rivers in the island, besides great numbers of rivulets of excellent fresh water, but none of the rivers are navigable; yet, in the rainy season, they are sometimes very deep and rapid, coming down often in a frightful manner, carrying away considerable tracks of land, large trees, huge stones, and sometimes houses, into the sea.

The rivers and rivulets are plentifully stocked with excellent fish; the principal of which are, mullets, crocroes, pike, eels, suck-fish, and cray-fish, with which the tables of the inhabitants, especially those on the plantations, are well furnished; and much amusement is afforded to good anglers.

The mullet is of the shape of the sea-fish of the same name, and is often caught in the rivers of half a pound or more in weight; they are very fat and full of roe when in season, and are a great dainty.

The crocroe is an excellent fresh water fish, much of the shape of a trout, excepting the head, which in the crocroe is more round. Of these are caught, at times, some that will weigh from five to six, and usually from one to two pounds. The mullet and crocroe are generally caught with the hook and line, but sometimes they and other river fish are taken in the night-time by negroes, who, with a lighted torch made of a wood called “Bois chandélle,” which burns a long time, and which being held over the water, the fish, attracted by the light, swim towards it on the surface, when they are chopped with cutlasses, and great quantities sometimes taken in that manner.

The pike is a rare fish, being found in one or two particular rivers only: they are sometimes caught of eight or ten pounds in weight, but they are not much esteemed, being reckoned unwholesome eating, as are also the different kinds of mud-fish, which are in great plenty in this island.

The eel is of the silver kind, and is an excellent fish, but are to be had in no great abundance. Of them are often caught some that will measure from two to three feet in length, and of a considerable thickness; when they are much esteemed, being very fat, and of a delicious flavour.

The suck-fish is small, but a very great dainty, and is remarkable for having a fleshy substance projecting from its navel, like the mouth of a purse, which has the faculty of suction, and by which the fish fastens itself so strongly to the stones in the rivers, that it is difficult to take them with the hook and line, to which they are often destructive: for this reason they are mostly caught with the hands groping among the stones; in which manner these fish are taken in great plenty by those who are dextrous at that way of fishing.

The cray-fish are of two kinds, the one approaching the size of the common lobster, the other that of the prawn. The first is much admired, but the latter having a rank, muddy taste, is not in much esteem.

But the chief dainty among the fresh-water fish in Dominica is the young frey, with which the rivers there are filled twice or thrice every year, and which are called by the French “Tréz tréz.” These consist of various kinds of sea-fish just spawned, and with which that element swarms, for some miles distance from the shore, in numbers truly astonishing. These little creatures come into the rivers like a living stream, and in a short time swim two or three miles to an amazing height up the country. This they perform in a wonderful manner, skipping over such rapid streams, as repel their weak endeavours, from rock to rock, the surfaces of which are covered with them: or, seeking the smoothly gliding stream at the side of the banks, by degrees ascend the highest parts of the rivers.

The first day of the appearance of these frey in the rivers they are transparent and clear as crystal, so that every bone in them may be counted, and the movement of their vitals can be plainly discerned. The second day after, they lose much of that transparency; and the third or fourth day, it is wholly lost by the nutriment which they feed on. They are caught in baskets, in which is put a tablecloth or sheet, and sinking the basket with stones, vast quantities are taken at a time. They are fried in a batter made of flour and milk, or stewed with herbs and spice. They are excellent food cooked either way.

Almost in the centre of the island, on the top of a very high mountain, surrounded by others above it, is a large natural pond, or rather lake of fresh water, which is also well stocked with fine fish, and it is said, is in some places unfathomable. It covers a space of some acres, spreads into three distinct branches, and has a very wonderful appearance in point of situation: it is about six miles distant from the town of Roseau, and great part of the road to it is a steep ascent. On first beholding this lake, a person becomes, as it were, rivetted for a time to the spot, with silent awe and admiration, at viewing so vast a body of water collected at such a height.

Dominica is likewise well supplied with excellent sea-fish; and the inhabitants have the advantage of procuring their fish almost as soon as caught, and often buy them alive in the market. Among the chief of the sea-fish are, groupers, cavallies, snappers, silks, baracutas, king-fish, Spanish mackrel, jacks, and sprats; the shell-fish are, lobsters, conks, wilks, and crabs; all which are so well known, as to render any description of them needless. Some few turtles are also caught at the windward part of the island; but this article is mostly brought hither from the Spanish islands.

This island is also remarkable for land-crabs, of which there are three sorts, white, black, and red. The first are distinguishable only for their poisonous quality, which they acquire by feeding on the blossoms and leaves of the mahaut, a tree which gives name to a part of the island where it grows especially, and of which it is necessary to give first a description. This tree is of the cork kind, and grows spontaneously in watery places, or at the sides of rivers, and renders the water and air near them very unwholesome. They are about the size in common of the English oak-trees, and are almost continually in blossom; which is of a sickly yellow colour, and has much the appearance of the poppy blossom, but is rather larger. The body, branches, leaves, and blossoms of the mahaut-tree, contain a milky juice, which is a most subtle poison to every creature but the crabs who taste it; and to them it gives the same deadly quality if eaten, as has been fatally experienced by several persons. Yet notwithstanding their bad qualities, these trees are very serviceable, as the bark of them stripped off makes good ropes, nearly as strong as those made of hemp; and the body and branches make floats for seins, or fishing-nets, equal to any made of cork, and as durable.

The black crabs are excellent, and safe eating, if caught in places where the Mahaut tree does not grow; particularly those brought from a part of the island, called “Souffriér;” where they are to be had nearly as large as sea crabs, and in great plenty. They are extremely fat when in season; and the females are full of a rich glutinous substance, called the eggs, which is perfectly delicious.

The red crabs are as small as the common sort of crabs in England, but are by far preferable to them; the females being full of the same rich glutinous substance as the black sort, when in season; at which time, the red crabs make their appearance in astonishing numbers: so that it is common for a person on horseback, to trample them under his horse’s feet; and it is diverting to hear the rustling they make among the leaves on the ground, to get out of the way. Of these, and the black sort, is made a favourite dish, called there, pepper pot; which is made of crabs picked from the shells, stewed with Indian cale, and pods of Guinea pepper, and eat with a pudding made of Indian corn flour, or rice; this dish is esteemed by most of the inhabitants.

Some people have crab pens, or places made like fowl coops, for the purpose of keeping them alive, for some time after they are caught; feeding them with potatoe vines, Indian corn, herbage and water. This method is certainly the best to prevent the danger to be apprehended from eating them; as, notwithstanding the greatest caution in procuring them from particular places only, they have proved fatal, by being imprudently eaten as soon as they were caught.

The land crabs are particularly destructive to sugar plantations, when they are numerous, as they are on some estates near the sea; eating off the buds of the newly planted canes, of which they are very fond; as they are also of the Indian corn just sprouted, of which they devour both blade and root. For this there is no remedy, but immediately replanting and catching as many of them as you can; for to attempt to stop up their holes, which are numerous, as those of the mole; or to poison them, would be vain.

There are no quadrupeds, natives of Dominica, except the Indian coney, which is nearly the size of a rabbit when full grown. This animal is very singular; its head, ears, eyes, nose, mouth, and teeth, being exactly like those of a rat; and its body and legs like those of a hog; the latter in particular, being hoofed like that animal. It has only a stump of a tail, which appears as if it was cut, but it is naturally so; and it is covered with long brown hair like hog’s bristles, which it erects in the same manner when angry. It springs on its hind legs like a rabbit, and runs with great speed when pursued, making a noise like a Guinea pig.

These animals do much mischief among the ground provisions; which they root up in great abundance; feeding in herds, in the mornings and evenings, and are difficult to be shot, but are easily taken by dogs, or traps. Their flesh is not much admired for eating, it being dry, and in general rank; but to get rid of this taste, those who are fond of eating them, bury the dead animal in the ground for two or three hours previous to cooking it, which takes it off. They are sometimes kept alive as curiosities, and are soon tamed; but their urine is very offensive.

There were formerly wild goats and hogs in the woods of this country; but they became so by being let free on the plantations. There are, however, very few, if any, at present, having been mostly, if not entirely, destroyed by the runaway negroes. The wild hogs were very dangerous when attacked, but their flesh delicious, owing to the vast quantity and goodness of the wild yams, and other provisions, on which they lived, and which grow spontaneously in the woods.

The several species of four-footed animals which breed in Dominica are, horses, horned cattle, sheep, hogs, goats, rabbits, and Guinea pigs. The poultry are, geese, ducks, turkies, dunghill fowls, Guinea fowls, and house pigeons.

There are but few horses bred here; and they are no way remarkable, either for strength, beauty, or spirit; but are rather small and unsightly. This proceeds entirely from the want of good breeding mares and stallions, with proper persons competent in the knowledge of breeding and taking care of those useful animals; as the horses brought from England, America, and the other islands, thrive extremely well here.

The present pastures in this island are by no means extensive, although very good for cattle; consequently, there are but few of them. But those that are bred here are as strong, breed as well, and are as fine looking creatures, as in any part of the West-Indies.

Nor are sheep or goats in any great numbers in Dominica; but those of both species breed as well here as in any other island: and when killed for market, their flesh is tender, fat, and juicy, equalling in flavour that of venison. What is remarkable of the sheep in particular, is, that they retain their wool in this island much longer than in most other parts of the West Indies, where they shed their fleecy coats very soon after being brought to that climate, which causes them to change into fine long hair, as in goats.

Hogs are in tolerable plenty in the island, and may be raised in great abundance, the country being very favourable for breeding them, as it affords plenty of proper provisions. Their flesh is very white, firm, and fat, and of a delicious flavour, especially those raised on the plantations; but in the towns, where the hogs are suffered to go at large, and fed on any filth that falls in their way, their flesh is not so good.

Rabbits, Guinea pigs, and the different species of poultry, breed extremely well in Dominica, and are in as great perfection there as in any other part of the world.

CHAPTER IV.

OF THE MOST REMARKABLE REPTILES AND INSECTS OF THE ISLAND, THEIR VENOMOUS AND OTHER QUALITIES, WITH REMARKS.

The principal and most remarkable of the reptiles and insects in Dominica are, snakes, lizards, wood-slaves, guanas, frogs, grugru worms, borer worms, centipédes, scorpions, spiders, sawyer flies, blacksmith flies, loggerhead flies, Spaniard flies, freemason flies, the wood-horse, and vegetable flies.

Some of the snakes are small, and others very large and thick. Of the last sort is that called by the French, “Tête du chien,” or Dog’s-head snake, from its head, which much resembles that of a dog. Some have been caught in this island that measured upwards of twelve feet in length, and as thick as a man’s leg. They have long, sharp teeth; their skins are scaled and beautifully spotted, and they have at the end of their tails a blunt-pointed, horny substance, which enables them to climb the trees.

The bite of these shakes is not venomous, nor is that of any kind of them in this island; but the tête du chien does much mischief among the birds in the woods; and on the plantations they frequently devour the fowls and other poultry. They will swallow a full-grown fowl with its feathers; and several of them have been killed there with both a large fowl and an Indian coney entire in their bowels.

A remarkable circumstance, which happened in this island some time ago, deserves to be noticed in this place. A negro retiring from work one day at noon, instead of going home to get his dinner, fell asleep under a shady tree; and being missing at the time the other negroes assembled together to finish their daily task, it caused a suspicion that some accident had befallen him; they accordingly went in search of him, and found him asleep, with one of his legs, up to the thick part of his thigh, in the jaws of a large snake. Awakened by their noise, he was in the greatest terror, and struggling to get disengaged, was severely bit by the animal; to prevent this as much as possible, wedges were placed between its jaws, whilst they cut it to pieces; by which means only he could be released. This operation took up some time, which together with the length of time, his leg and thigh had already been in the belly and jaws of the snake, reduced them almost to a state of digestion; and it was not till a considerable while after, that he recovered the intire use of them.

The fat of these snakes is esteemed an excellent remedy for the rheumatism, or for sprains, by rubbing it mixed with strong rum. Their flesh is eaten by many, particularly by the French, some of whom are very fond of it; but it is reckoned unwholesome, and to occasion the leprosy.

The skins of the tête du chien snakes are excellent for covering sword-sheaths, or other instrument cases, for which purpose they are in general used; but some surgeons make use of them in medicine.

Lizards are very numerous in this island, and are of several kinds; some of a green, others of a yellow, and some beautifully spotted with both colours. They are very harmless, feed on flies, worms, and other small insects, which render them very serviceable on the plantations. The ground lizard, one of the largest of that species, and of a black colour, has lately been discovered to be an excellent remedy for the leprosy, when made into broth.

The wood-slave is a species of the lizard kind, but of a more hideous figure, and is reckoned to be venomous. Its head is shaped like a dog’s, its body is scaled and spotted like a toad’s, it has four legs, which are claw-footed, and on each toe a sharp, crooked nail, like a bird’s; it lashes with its tail, which drops from its body on the slightest touch; and its whole appearance is very disgusting.

They are commonly not more than three or four inches in length, but some are rather larger. Some say, that they fix their nails so fast in the flesh of those on whom they chance to fall, as not to be removed without cutting them out: others recommend throwing dry sand on the part, which disengages their nails, when they are easily shaken off. However, I never knew any injury happen from the wood-slave; I have had them drop on my cloaths from the cielings of rooms, where they are usually to be seen in the evening, in search of food. They are great enemies to spiders and cock-roaches, and they make a noise which somewhat resembles the cackling of a hen.

The guana is shaped like a crocodile, its head, body, feet, and tail, resembling those of that animal. It is of a green colour, but can change it at pleasure to a light ash colour, as it always does when alarmed. It has gills like a cock, but of a pale colour, and a horny substance, like the comb of that bird, reaching from its nose to the neck. It has strong sharp teeth, shaped like a lancet, with which it bites severely; its tail is also armed with strong, blunt points, with which it wounds the legs of those who take it, if they are not careful, as it lashes strongly with its tail, which is very supple, and nearly twice as long as the other part of its body.

This animal is commonly between two and three feet long, from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail; and when of that length, about four or five inches thick, especially the females, about the belly, when breeding; at which time they are full of eggs.

The flesh of the guana is excellent eating, and is cooked in the same manner as turtle, to which it is by many preferred; their eggs are also reckoned a great dainty. They are caught by a very curious method: by whistling, which lulls them asleep, when with a strong vine, or string, fastened at the end of a long stick in a slip knot, which is pulled gently over its head, and when a sudden jirk is given with the stick the animal is secured. They are very harmless, shy, and difficult to come near; and a person bit by them, or wounded with their tails, is under no apprehensions of danger from either.

The frogs, called by the French “Crapaux,” are very numerous in Dominica, and are an article of food to both the French and English, many of whom prefer the crapaux to chickens. They make fricassees, and soup of them, and the latter is recommended to sick people, especially in consumptive cases.

The method of catching the crapaux is somewhat singular, it being done by means of lighted torches in the night-time, when they are out in search of food. This method is also used to catch the land-crabs, which, as well as the frogs, from some deficiency in their eye-sight, are unable to resist the light of a burning flame; or it so fascinates them, that they have not the power to stir from the spot; but stupified by its rays, they become an easy prey.

The grugru-worm is a species of the grub-worm, but is much larger than the common sort, and breeds in the trunks of decayed cabbage and cocoa-nut trees. These worms are eat by many people, who esteem them a great dainty, and eat them roasted, with a strong sauce made of lime-juice, salt, and Guinea pepper. They are like marrow, when cooked; but their head gives them an appearance not very inviting, the first time they are eaten; yet that disgust is soon overcome, by their exceeding rich flavour, which those who are fond of them say, exceeds any yet tasted.

The borer-worm is also a species of the grub-worm, and is a most destructive reptile, especially to the sugar-cane, to which its ravages are principally confined. This worm is commonly about an inch in length, and of the thickness of a large caterpillar; it is produced from the egg of a kind of butterfly, or moth, and was first discovered in this island about ten years ago.

Its mouth has two strong, sharp teeth, in shape like a hog’s tusks, with which it bites severely, and with such smartness, that putting the blade of a knife between them, it will champ the blade, so as to be distinctly heard, and will keep it so fast, as to make it difficult to take it away. With its teeth it penetrates the buds on the joints of the cane, working its way into the inside, where it devours the whole substance, rendering the joint like a tube: after which, it works into another joint, which it consumes in like manner; and continuing its progress, at length destroys the whole cane.

The devastation which these worms make in a field of canes in a short time is astonishing; and although several methods have been tried to destroy them, yet none have been successful. If care was taken when the canes were young, on the first appearance of the borer among them, to rub their stems and leaves with a preparation of lime-water, or salt brine, mixed with soot and mashed pods of Guinea pepper, perhaps they might be destroyed; as by sprinkling some of this mixture on those worms it will instantly kill them.

Ants are great enemies to the borer when they can get at them, but they are much prevented by its excrement, which being like filings of wood, and of a gluey consistence, usually fills up and secures their holes from the entrance of the ants. Yet having myself removed that impediment, by clearing away the dung, and putting a few ants to the hole, on going to the place some time after, I have seen them collected in great numbers, all busily employed carrying away in their mouths pieces of the borer, whom they had ferretted out of its hole and killed.

Centipedes, called by the English “Forty legs,” and scorpions, are numerous in this island, especially in the woods, and in old houses. Of the former are often seen some that will measure eight or nine inches in length, and thick in proportion; but the generality of them do not exceed three inches long. They are very harmless, except when meddled with; neither then is their bite, or the sting of the scorpion of this country, so dangerous, as in many other West India islands.

They are caught and put into strong rum; and if the part bit or stung be rubbed with it, the pain is soon allayed, though the sting of the scorpion is at first exquisite, and hardly to be endured with temper.

Spiders are also here in great plenty, and of various kinds, some of them being much larger than any in England, their bodies are covered with a fine down like hair, and their mouths are armed with strong, sharp teeth, or forceps, with which they wound severely, but their bite is not venomous. Others are very small, and beautifully spotted with a variety of the most lively colours; and some have eyes in different parts of their bodies, but they are all harmless.

The sawyer fly, so called from its faculty of sawing asunder the branches of trees, whose substance is its food, is about three inches in length when full grown, and is a very singular insect. Its head has somewhat the appearance of that of an elephant, it having a horny bill, like the proboscis of that animal, bending upwards from the under part, with another, pointing downwards from the upper part of its head, both of a jet black, and of a fine polish. On the inner surface of the upper bill are raised points, like the teeth of a saw, which are used by the insect in the same manner. Its body is like that of a beetle, but considerably larger, with double wings, the inner of which is like coarse gauze; and its legs are armed at each joint with crooked, sharp nails, with the same on each toe, like a bird.

The process of this insect in sawing down branches of trees is really admirable, but it is hardly possible to form an idea of the manner of doing it without a description. This work it performs by encircling the branch with its bills, the points of which it fastens well into the wood, and turning round it briskly by the strength of its wings, which make a loud buzzing noise, it in a short time saws the branch asunder. They are by many called elephant flies, from the great resemblance of their heads to that animal; they are perfectly harmless, and are caught only to be kept as curiosities.

The blacksmith fly, is so called from its making a noise resembling in sound the striking on iron. In the centre of its back is a projecting horny point, and a crevice of the same nature on the hind part of the head, near the shoulders, which being struck together by a jerk of the head and body, make a tinkling noise, that may be heard at a considerable distance; and so elastic is the membrane which joins the head and body together, that, if the insect is laid on its back, it will spring to a tolerable height upwards, and fall directly on its legs. It differs very little from the beetle in shape or size, excepting in its elastic powers, and making so singular a noise.

The fire fly is a wonderful insect, for it has a luminous quality in its head (above the eyes) under each wing, and in its tail; which, when the insect is flying, has the appearance of so many lights of candles moving in the air: or, the lights of a coach or post-chaise in a dark night, travelling towards you at a brisk rate.

Some of these flies are as big as the top-joint of a man’s thumb, others are much smaller; and the latter have that luminous quality only in their tails. They have a charming effect on the eye at night in the groves of the woods, where they are seen flying in all directions, like so many thousand sparkles of fire; forming one of the grandest spectacles of the kind that can be conceived, in Dominica’s woods “that nightly shine with insect lamps.”

The larger sort are often caught for the novelty of the light they give; if two or three of them are put into a glass, placed in a dark room, you may see distinctly any object there; or by holding a book close to the glass in which they are, you may see plainly to read the smallest print.

There is another quality remarkable in the fire flies, which is, that several of them being killed and mashed together will produce the same effect, and be as visible in letters marked out on the walls of a dark room, as if done with artificial phosphorus; and this for a considerable time after the flies are dead.

The loggerhead fly is a species of the moth, from which it differs only in the uncommon largeness of its head, and a singular quality of transparency in its body; which latter is very remarkable, for placing this fly near to the light of a candle, you may plainly distinguish every part of its vitals, and distinctly count every movement of them.

The Spaniard fly and free-mason fly are both of the wasp kind, but they differ from each other in size, shape, and also in the substance and curious manner of making their nests. The first is of the shape of a small bee, and builds its nest of a waxy matter, in the form of a small flat button full of holes, which it suspends by a silky ligament to the cielings of houses, or to the boughs of trees, where it has the benefit of the wind to vibrate to and fro.

The free-mason fly is exactly of the shape, size, and colour of a wasp, and builds its nest of mud, in the shape of organ barrels. It is curious to see these little creatures at work, they shew so much art and industry, some of them fetching the mud in their mouths, while others are forming their small cones, or filling them up when finished with numbers of various-coloured small spiders, which they also bring in their mouths, for food to their young when hatched. That which is further remarkable of these flies is, that it appears they qualify the spiders, by some means, for remaining a long time in as perfect a state as the first day they were immured in their cells; I have seen spiders, so immured for several weeks, as whole and perfect in size, shape, and colour, as when alive.

There is another species of these flies, called galley wasps, which is double the size and of a bright light-blue colour. These have very long stings, which are plainly to be seen when they are flying, with which they wound very severely, causing the blood to spout out, as from the prick of a lancet.

The sting of these flies is very painful, and persons have been thrown into fevers by being stung severely by them; but they are seldom offensive, unless disturbed.

The wood-horse, called by the negroes the fairy-horse, is a very singular insect. Its head is like that of a grasshopper, it has two horns, considerably longer than its own body, which is about three inches, and of one continued thickness, like a large caterpillar. It has six legs, which are raised and doubled above its body, like the springing legs of a grasshopper, but they have not the same power, serving it only to walk with, which it does very fast. It has no wings, is of a deep green colour, and is perfectly harmless.

The vegetable fly is a remarkable insect. It is of the appearance and size of a small cockchafer, and buries itself in the ground, where it dies, and from its body springs up a small plant, which resembles a coffee-tree plant, only its leaves are much smaller. The plant which springs from this insect is often overlooked, from the supposition people have of its being no other than a coffee plant; but on examining it properly, the difference is easily distinguished, from the head, body, and feet of the insect appearing at the root, as perfect as when alive.

In the woods of Dominica are vast swarms of bees, which hive in the trees, and produce great quantities of wax and honey; both of which are equal in goodness to any of those articles to be had in Europe.

The musquitoes and sand flies are not so numerous, or so troublesome in this country, as they are in most parts of the West Indies, owing to there being but few spots of stagnated water, which breeds them.

The musquito is a species of the gnat kind, but rather smaller than the common gnat in England. The sand fly is not much larger than the head of a large pin, but is a very tormenting little insect in some islands, particularly to persons newly arrived from Europe.

Ants are very numerous in Dominica, and are of several sorts; as the large black ant, the brown ant, the red ant, the flying ant, and the wood ant. The latter is the most troublesome, as they are very destructive to trees, and the timber in houses; which they will reduce to dust in a short time, if suffered to take up their abode therein. The best method to prevent this is, to rub the timber with tar or turpentine, which hinders their attacking it, or, if already there, to sprinkle arsenic in their nests, which kills them.

The other sorts of ants are injurious only to particular articles, as new sown seed, the buds and fruit of trees, especially in dry seasons, when sometimes they cover the ground in such numbers, as is truly astonishing.

CHAPTER V.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE DIFFERENT ARTICLES OF WEST INDIA PRODUCE, RAISED IN THE ISLAND; THE NUMBER OF SUGAR AND COFFEE PLANTATIONS THEREIN, WITH REMARKS.

The several articles of West India produce raised in Dominica for commerce are, sugar, rum, coffee, cocoa, and indigo.

There are not more than fifty sugar plantations at present in this island, above thirty estates of that description having been abandoned, owing to several causes; and among others, to the imprudence and mismanagement of some of the first proprietors of them; and to the great disadvantages this island laboured under, while it was in the possession of the French last war.

It was a great misfortune, that on the first settlement of this country by the English, so great a rage prevailed in the new settlers for having extensive estates, as many of them were no ways qualified for the laborious task of establishing a valuable property, by clearing the woods, and proceeding, not only to superintend, but to get forward by degrees, with industry and œconomy.

They flattered themselves, that without all this, in the course of a few years, their fortunes would be made, as they had very large estates; but they did not consider the consequences of borrowing money at eight per cent. which was allowed in Dominica at that time.—The forming new estates with new negroes, instead of seasoned ones, at a time when that climate was, from the quantity of its wood, so unsettled, that it rained best part of the year.—The extra labour of making roads, and carrying materials for building, which took up at least eighteen months, before any produce could be planted.—Whilst in several instances, some of them spent the money, which was intended to forward their plantations, in unnecessary buildings; or in an unwarrantable luxury of living.

Others, from an unpardonable greediness, purchased, in the names of their acquaintances or families, several lots of land, each containing the number of acres limited in the grants; by which means, persons who would have been more fit settlers, were deprived of them; and large quantities of land thus purchased, are now in the same state (in woods) as they were, when first sold at the Commissioners sales nearly thirty years ago.

Another material cause, to which the reduction of sugar plantations in this island may be attributed, is, that several of the first English settlers, from a want of knowledge in the choice of lands, proper for the immediate cultivation of the sugar-cane, had chosen such places in the interior parts of the country, as were on the tops of high mountains, or surrounded by vast woods; which affording too much shelter from the sun, and being subject to too frequent great rains, chilled the canes, rendering their juice unfit for making sugar. Not but that, was the whole of the cultivable lands there to be cleared of their woods, there are few situations, even in the most interior parts, but would be proper for the growth of that article.

By this imprudent conduct of such of the new settlers, after they had spent considerable sums of money, which they had borrowed on the credit of their plantations so situated, and having lost a number of negroes and cattle by the dampness of the climate in those places, together with the difficult and laborious roads to them, they were at length driven to the necessity of abandoning their possessions to the mortgagees in Europe.

These latter, it is presumed, having taken an unfavourable opinion of the mortgaged premises, from having been sufferers already in the loss of considerable sums they had lent on them; and not knowing, or not considering the value of such property at a future period, are unwilling to advance more; at least the majority of the mortgagees seem to be disposed to let their lands remain in the same neglected, abandoned situation they have been in these several years past, to the great hindrance of the prosperity of that valuable island, as well as their own detriment.

It is computed, that on an average, one year with another, there are not more than three thousand hogsheads of sugar made annually in Dominica. This is certainly a very small quantity of that article for such an extensive island, or even for the number of plantations in it, at present under cultivation: for, supposing these fifty estates contained only two thousand acres of land in canes, which is a very small calculation, as several single estates have upwards of one hundred acres, and few less than sixty: this is at the rate only of a hogshead and a half per acre.

In the English old settled islands, three hogsheads of sugar for every acre in canes, on an average, is considered as a very moderate produce; for, after good seasonable weather previous to the crop, some lands have been known to yield from four to five hogsheads per acre. From the great disproportion in point of yielding, between the lands of other islands and those of Dominica, the superior fertility of the former may be inferred; which, however, is by no means the case: for the lands of the old islands, from having been a considerable number of years under cultivation, are so much worn out, as to require great attention to make them bear the culture of the sugar-cane. And the Planters there are obliged to let the land lie a year or two fallow occasionally, or only plant such vegetables as yams and potatoes, the roots of which open and enrich the soil; beside, it must be well dunged previous to planting.

Again, no more than one-half in some plantations, in others only one-third part of the land is yearly planted with canes; the other part being prepared for growing rattoons, turned into pasture for cattle, or given to the negroes for gardens, in order to improve and render it fit for the canes. The rattoons, it is necessary to acquaint the readers, who may probably not know the sugar-cane, are second canes, which spring from the roots of plant canes, after they have been cut down and made sugar of; which the rattoons produce in like manner, but generally not in an equal quantity with the other. Of these, the lands of the old islands will bear but one crop, in Dominica they will rattoon four or five years running, and the last year’s yielding of sugar will be as great as the first.

The sugar estates in the old islands have generally a number of barren spots in them, called “Yellow spots;” the sterility of which no art can overcome so as to make them bear canes to any perfection; for though they will spring up, yet they soon change from a green to a yellow colour, and rot in the ground. And, moreover, the old islands are frequently subject to long and severe droughts, which never happen in Dominica; and there is every reason to suppose they never will, from the great number and heighth of its mountains, together with the vast quantity of woods, which it will be next to impossible ever to clear away in some parts of the island.

The land of Dominica is quite new, very little of it having been more than thirty years under cultivation, and a great part of it, it is probable, never since the creation; the soil thereof produces vegetation so quick, that it is truly amazing; and this vigour is particularly conspicuous in the sugar-cane, for it has been seen there of the length of sixteen feet and upwards, and double the thickness that it in general attain in other islands.

The lands on the sea-coast have abundantly the advantage of the interior country, for forming sugar estates; but then, they are contiguous to, or are overtopped by vast woods, and have not the benefit of an uninterrupted, warm air, which is necessary for the growth of canes to any perfection. Besides, the damps from the woods near them, rising in heavy fogs, has a bad effect on canes; and though the lands on the sea-coast all lie on a declivity, yet the under stratum of the soil being either a stiff clay, or strong terrace, so much water is retained from the frequent rains, occasioned by the woods, as to chill the soil.

These considerations seem to point out the necessity, in order to render Dominica a good sugar country, of clearing the extensive forests of trees in the interior parts of it. When this is done, and not till then, will this island be distinguished for the number of its sugar plantations, and for the quantity of sugar it is absolutely capable of raising.

There are above two hundred coffee plantations in Dominica; but the principal and most productive of them belong to French proprietors, who raise great quantities of coffee, which they dispose of to the English merchants, who export it to Europe. There are, however, several valuable estates of that description belonging to the English inhabitants of it; and the coffee produced in this island is esteemed superior to that of most others in the West Indies.

It is computed, that, one year with another, there are between four and five millions of pounds weight of that article produced, and exported annually from this island to Great Britain, where it sells from 4l. 15s. to 5l. 5s, per hundred weight.

The cultivation of cocoa is not much attended to by the English planters; and the small quantity which is exported, is chiefly raised on the plantations of the French inhabitants.

Indigo is manufactured on only two or three English estates in the island; but they have lately very much neglected that article, owing to too frequent rains, occasioned by the extensive woods.

Cotton trees thrive extremely well in the land on the sea-coasts of Dominica, but the cultivation of them is, at present, wholly neglected; as is also that of ginger. The latter having been formerly planted in estates that are now abandoned, it grows there spontaneously, and in great luxuriance.

The cassia-fistula, and castor-oil nut trees, are both raised on some plantations, but very little of the produce of either is exported. The cassia-fistula was considered by the French as so valuable an article, that soon after they were in possession of Dominica last war, an ordinance of the French King was proclaimed in Roseau, for every-planter in the country to give in an account of the number of cassia-fistula trees he had growing on his estate.

Tobacco grows in great perfection, but it is only cultivated by the negroes, who raise it in their gardens for their own use.

Dominica is, beyond dispute, the most valuable island belonging to Great Britain in that part of the world, for the vast quantities and excellency of the farinaceous fruits and roots of the West Indies; such as plantains, bananas, manioc, or cassada, yams, sweet potatoes, cushcushes, tanias, eddoes, &c. &c. some of which are not to be found in the other islands, but which grow spontaneously in the woods of this. Among these are, the wild yams, which grow there in great abundance, and were the chief food of the runaway negroes for a number of years, till it became necessary to reduce them.

Also Guinea corn, Indian corn, and rice, grow extremely well in Dominica; the latter especially, which being introduced there by the American refugees, flourishes in the moist, flat lands, and yields in great perfection. The large plantations there of plantains and bananas, exceed any thing of the kind in the old islands; the inhabitants of which are often obliged to have recourse to this country for a supply of those fruits.

CHAPTER VI.

NAMES AND DESCRIPTIONS OF PARTICULAR WEST INDIA FRUITS WHICH GROW IN THE ISLAND; ALSO OF EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN FRUITS, HERBS, VEGETABLES, AND FLOWERS; WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THEIR PROPERTIES, &c.

The island of Dominica produces every species of fruit peculiar to the West Indies; all which grow there in great perfection. The principal are, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, shaddocks, water lemons, granadillas, sappadillas, pomegranates, alligator pears, mountain pears, pine apples, rose apples, star apples, sugar apples, custard apples, mamma apples, guavas, sea-side grapes, cocoa nuts, conk nuts, soursops, papaws, cashew apples, and tamerinds.

The oranges in this island are of three sorts, the China orange, the bergamot, and the Seville orange. The first sort is far superior, in flavour and sweetness, to any fruit of the kind to be had in England; the bergamot orange is small, but it is a most delicious fruit; and the Seville orange is very serviceable. The blossoms of their trees have a delighting fragrant smell, which is to be scented at a great distance; and the fruit, when ripe and full on them, has a very pleasing appearance.

The lemon and lime trees bear also very aromatic, scenting blossoms; and the fruit of both is in great abundance, large, and of an excellent quality. Of these, the latter especially, great quantities are often sent in barrels to England and America; the neighbouring English islands are likewise often supplied with them from this country, especially those of Antigua and Barbadoes.

The citrons are large, but are chiefly valuable for their rinds, as with them are made the best kind of sweetmeats.

The shaddocks are of two sorts, the one white in the inside, the other red; they are a large fruit, some of them being as big as a good sized musk-melon; but the red sort of them is most admired. The juice is contained in separate divisions of a thin, skin-like substance, as transparent as diamonds, and which have much the look of them, finely squared and polished. It has a sweet taste, tinctured with a bitter, and when the fruit is ripe is very agreeable, and reckoned a good addition to a glass of Madeira wine after dinner. The rinds of them also make good sweetmeats.

The water lemon is a fine fruit, of the shape and size of a dunghill fowl’s egg. The rind of it is of a bright yellow colour, the inside is full of small, flat seeds, covered with a juicy pulp, which has a very agreeable, musky taste. It grows on a vine, which bears a very beautiful blossom, very much resembling the passion flower; and the vine is much admired, because it affords the most delightful shade when turned over an arbour.

The granadilla is rather larger than the largest sized Lisbon lemon, and is an excellent fruit. It also grows on a vine, which bears a delightful sky-blue and yellow blossom, very fragrant, and of the same appearance as that of the water lemon, but much larger. The rind of the fruit is also of a yellow colour, but not so bright as the other; and the inside is full of seeds covered with a juicy pulp, but not of so musky a taste. The granadilla is much recommended to people in fevers, its juice being very cooling. The rind of it mixed with a little lime-juice, makes an excellent tart, nearly equal to those made with English apples; and so very refreshing is the scent of these fruits, that many people suffer them to decay on their side-boards, for the sake of their agreeable smell.

The sappadilla is of the size and make of a bergamot pear, its juice is of a gluey nature, and of a sweet taste. The tree which bears it resembles a pear-tree, and its timber is very serviceable for mills, or to make cartwheels of.

The pomegranates in Dominica are not so large as those brought to England from other countries; but they are fleshy, sweet, and good, when thoroughly ripe. They bear a delightful scarlet-coloured blossom, which, in size and make, is very like the flowers called blue-bottles; and the skin, or shell of the fruit, being boiled into a decoction, is given to persons afflicted with the flux.

The alligator pear is of the shape of an English bell pear, but is much larger. There are two sorts of this fruit, the one of a purple-coloured rind, the other of a pale green: the latter is the largest, and most esteemed. They are excellent fruit, and are greedily eaten by all kinds of animals; for even horses, who are in general not fond of fruit, will eagerly eat them. This is the fruit which is called in the West Indies “Vegetable marrow,” from its rich melting taste, and it is justly reckoned the best and most wholesome fruit of the country.

Some people eat them with salt and black pepper, others with lime-juice and syrup, and some without either; but the generality of the French eat them with fish or flesh, with which they are very relishing. The seed of the alligator pear, which is nearly one-third part of the fruit, and shakes within it when ripe, has the appearance of the inside part of a horse-chesnut, and has a very firm colour; for which reason it is commonly used to mark linen with. This is done, by covering the seed with the cloth, and pricking out the letters with a pin; the juice filling up the punctures, stains the form of the letters so durably, that they are not to be washed out, only decaying with the cloth.

The mountain pear is found growing only on barren heights, or on the sides of steep precipices; it grows on a tall, fluted-like stalk, that has the appearance of a well-wrought, fluted, slender pillar, full of strong, sharp prickles. The fruit is of the size of a pippin, its skin is of a beautiful crimson colour; when this pear is cut open, it presents an innumerable quantity of fine black seeds, which are covered with a juicy pulp of the same colour as the skin, its taste is much like that of a strawberry; by which name the fruit is sometimes called.

Pine apples grow in Dominica to a great size, and are in general very juicy, but they are not so good as in most other islands, owing to the too great moisture of the ground, which makes them grow too luxuriant and watry. Pine apples sliced, covered with brown sugar, and left some time to drain out their juice, make an excellent drink, after being strained, and set by for a time in bottles.

The rose apple is chiefly esteemed for its fine scent, which resembles that of the flower after which it is called. It is, however, eat by many, but is reckoned unwholesome; being put up with linen, it gives it an agreeable scent, equal to that of lavender.

The star apple, so called from the blossoms of the tree which bears it, resembling a star, is a fine fruit, of the size and shape of a large plumb, of a purple colour; and its juice is of an agreeably sweet taste, and of a gluey nature.

The sugar apple is a singular fruit, about the size of a middling-sized English apple, but in appearance differs from any fruit of that name, as it does also in quality. The rind of it is crossed in divisions, the shape of diamonds in a card, which are considerably raised above the furrows between each, and stand in regular rows. The outside is of a pale green colour, the inside has a great number of hard, black seeds, which are nearly as big as peas, and are covered with a moist, gritty pulp, which has the taste of sugar; and it is reckoned very wholesome.

The custard apple is of much the same nature with the former, only the skin of it is smooth, of a rust colour, and the inside pulp less gritty, resembling in taste a custard, after which it is called.

The mamma apple is a large fruit, of the size in general of a middling-sized musk melon, but some are much smaller. The rind of it is thick, strong, and has the appearance of leather; the inside has three large nuts, or kernels, which are covered with a thick substance, of the colour of a carrot, very juicy, and in taste much resembling that of a peach. It is a delicious fruit when ripe, but is reckoned to be unwholesome, from its indigestive quality, yet they make tarts of it. The timber of the tree which bears the mamma apple is a very beautiful wood, durable, and is used for furniture.

Guavas are of three sorts, the white, the red, and the yellow guava; the first is the largest and most esteemed, but they are all very good. The white sort grows in general as large as a good-sized apple, the red rather smaller, and the yellow about the size of a golden pippin, which they also much resemble. The outside of these fruits is much like that of an apple, especially when half ripe, when they are used to make puddings or tarts of, which they make equal to an English apple, and are by many preferred. The inside of them is full of small, hard, and indigestible seeds, that are taken out when prepared for pastry, or for jelly; which latter they make in great perfection, and exceeding any thing of the kind.

The guava tree is of the shrub kind, but some of them grow tolerably large and lofty, especially those which bear the white guavas. Their timber and branches are very serviceable; and being durable, and of a supple nature, are used for making bows for cattle yokes, knees for canoes, or boats, baskets, &c. These trees have a singular property in them, as they are to be seen bearing ripe fruit, fruit just left by the blossoms, and blossoms in full bloom, all growing on the same branch. The blossoms close during the night, but being touched with the hand, or receiving the heat of the sun in the morning, they expand, diffusing the most delightful, fragrant scent.

The sea-side grapes are of the size of other grapes, but are the produce of a large spreading tree, which bears them in small clusters. They have only one seed, which is nearly as large as the fruit, by which it is covered very thinly; have a very agreeable taste, but are of an astringent nature.

The cocoa nut is so well known, as to need no description; but they are not in such great plenty in Dominica, as in many other islands, owing to the little pains taken to plant them.

The conk nut is rather larger than a walnut, but grows from a vine, the blossoms of which are much like those of the water lemon. It has a thick, strong shell, full of seeds, like the water lemon, but the juice of it is not so sweet.

The soursop is a fine fruit, large, and much of the shape of an heart. When unripe, it is of a brown colour, and its skin is covered with raised points like prickles, but they are not sharp. When ripe, it is of a fine green colour, the points fall off, and the skin is quite smooth. It is a very wholesome fruit, in taste resembling fine cotton dipped in syrup, with a little tincture of acid, of a very agreeable musky flavour, and much recommended in fevers.

The fruit and the leaves of the soursop have a very singular quality in them, for the fruit will rot on the ground without the least visible appearance of worms, although most animals and birds are very fond of it; and the leaves being scattered in a room infested with fleas, soon clears it of those troublesome guests, by the strength of the smell of the leaves, which, however, is very pleasant.

The papaw apples grow in clusters on stalks, but each of them, when full-grown, is larger than the largest-sized English apple, some nearly as large as a good-sized musk melon, and have nearly the same look. When half-ripe, they are used as a vegetable, and boiled, are a good substitute for turnips; when full-ripe, they are a great antidote to worms, and are recommended to persons afflicted with them: the seeds of the apple especially, which have a hot quality, like pepper, are reckoned good in that disorder.

The blossoms of the papaw tree are of a beautiful white and yellow colour, have a very odoriferous scent, and with the stalks are made pickles and preserves of. The juice of the apples, which, when they are unripe, is like thick milk, has the peculiar quality of making tough meat tender, by being rubbed over with it.

The cashew apples grow of different forms, sizes, and colours, some being shaped like a quince, and of the same colour, some longer, more round, less, and of a purple colour, and others of both colours; but all have the same astringent quality as the quince. These apples have each a nut, which grows out in the middle of their tops, and is of the shape of a kidney; the shell of which nut contains an oil of a corrosive quality that will consume iron; and being rubbed on the skin of a person, it will cause it to blister, as if burnt or scalded. The apple is usually roasted, the juice pressed out, and put hot into punch, to which it gives a very fine flavour. The nut is also roasted, and the kernel of it is esteemed preferable to that of any other nut whatever. Of these nuts, quantities are often sent from this island to England as presents.

The tamarind trees grow here in great perfection, and the fruit of them is excellent, being much used in medicine, for which purpose they are very valuable, and the timber of the trees is very serviceable.

English and American apple trees grow well in Dominica, and several of them are on different plantations in the island; particularly on those of Alexander Stewart, Esq. William Urban Bueé, merchant, and on some French estates, where the trees bear a juicy, well-flavoured apple.

Also strawberries, rasberries, and several other European and American fruits grow here in great perfection; proving, beyond a doubt, that was a proper attention to be paid to the further settlement of this island, there is hardly any description of foreign fruits but what would flourish in this country.

The gardens produce the black and green muscadine grapes, figs, musk melons, water melons, cucumbers, gourds, pompions, English, American, and West India beans and peas, cabbages, carrots, turnips, parsnips, lettuces, radishes, horse-radish, asparagus, artichokes, spinage, celery, onions, eschallots, thyme, sage, mint, rue, balm, parsley, and all sorts of vegetables and herbs, all which grow in this island in great perfection.

The flowers are, roses, tuberoses, pinks, jessamines, and several other sorts peculiar to the island; which latter grow spontaneously; some are very curious, and most of them have a very odoriferous smell.

The sensitive plant grows there spontaneously, and in great abundance; also the ipecacuanha, and the latter is often fatal to horses, cattle, and sheep, who chance to bite of it in feeding; for which reason it is necessary to eradicate it as much as possible out of the pastures. This plant bears very beautiful, scarlet and yellow flowers, which, with the leaves, are put into boiling water, and given as an emetic; but, without great experience, this method of using them is dangerous, and has proved fatal to many, who imprudently took too great a quantity of the infusion; for which reason great care should be taken in using it.

CHAPTER VII.

CONTAINS AN ACCOUNT OF THE TRADE OF THE ISLAND, PREVIOUS TO THE REDUCTION THEREOF BY THE FRENCH LAST WAR, WITH A RELATION OF THAT CIRCUMSTANCE; TOGETHER WITH THE ARTICLES OF CAPITULATION BY WHICH IT SURRENDERED.

During the space of the last five years, prior to the breaking out of the disturbances in North America, the island of Dominica was in a very flourishing situation. The port of Roseau, which was then a free port, was resorted to by traders from most of the foreign West India islands, as well as from England and North America.

The French and Spaniards purchased in this island great numbers of negroes for the supply of their settlements, together with great quantities of merchandize of the manufactures of Great Britain. These they paid for in gold and silver, or gave in exchange Muscovada and clayed sugar, coffee, cotton, gums, spices, ivory, mahogany, and dying-woods, the produce of their islands; all of which articles were exported to Great Britain in English bottoms; and thereby were productive of great advantages to the trade and navigation of the mother country.

The Americans imported thither lumber, boards, shingles, wood-hoops, staves, tobacco, flour, rice, salt-fish, horses, cattle, sheep, hogs, and feathered stock, the produce of North America. These were necessary articles for the new settlers, who paid for them in rum and molasses; or such other produce of the island as was at that time permitted to be exported in American vessels from the British West Indies.

The merchants of Dominica were then numerous, and were enabled to make regular yearly remittances, of considerable value, to their correspondents in England; and the planters of the country were furnished with the means of carrying on the settlement of their plantations with vigour.

Soon after the commencement of hostilities in America, and directly on the adoption of measures by the Americans by way of reprisal, the trade of Dominica to and with America was finally ended, and drew with it the loss of that, with the foreign West India islands.

This total ruin of trade was attended with serious consequences, fatal to the welfare of this island in particular, as being then only in a state of infancy with respect to its settlement; and it has never since been able to recover its former flourishing situation: for the merchants, tradesmen, and others, having no sale for their commodities, or work in their line of business, withdrew themselves to places where trade and commerce were more brisk; and the planters, from being deprived of the means of furnishing themselves with such articles as were immediately necessary for their new estates, were driven to abandon, or to postpone the further improvement of them.