Construction Work
FOR
Rural and Elementary
Schools

BY
VIRGINIA McGAW
Teacher in the Elementary School
of Baltimore

A. FLANAGAN COMPANY
CHICAGO

Copyright 1909
BY
A. FLANAGAN COMPANY

PREFACE

In offering this volume to the public the author has but one wish—namely, that it may supply a want in time of need and help some one over a difficult place.

Most of the subject-matter in Parts One, Two, Three, and Four was written for and has been previously published in the Atlantic Educational Journal, with a view to assisting the rural teacher. The present volume comprises a revision of the articles published, together with a short account of one season's work in a school garden, and has the same object—that of aiding the rural teacher by means of a few simple suggestions.

The work is divided into five parts—"Cord Construction," "Paper Construction," "Wood Construction," "Basketry," and "The School Garden." No subject is dealt with at length. The aim has been to give simple models that may be made without elaborate preparation or special material.

Believing that a child is most likely to appreciate his tools when he realizes their value or knows their history, a brief introduction to each part is given, and wherever possible, the place of the occupation in race history is dealt with, and an account of the culture and habitat of the material is given.

As clear a statement as is possible is made of how the model is constructed, and in most cases both a working drawing and a picture are given.

VIRGINIA McGAW.

Baltimore, Maryland,
April, 1909.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

To the Atlantic Educational Journal for the privilege of revising and relinquishing the articles on Cord, Paper, Wood, and Basketry.

To Mr. George M. Gaither, Supervisor of Manual Training in the Public Schools of Baltimore, for five of the woodwork patterns.

To President Richard W. Silvester, of the Maryland Agricultural College, for the inspiration to write the Garden Bulletin, his consent to its republication, and his hearty coöperation in its revision.

CONTENTS

• CORD CONSTRUCTION
• Introductory Remarks [9]
• Knots [9]
• 1 Overhand Knot [10]
• 2 Square Knot [10]
• 3 "Granny" Knot [11]
• Chains [11]
• 4 Loop Chain [11]
• 5 Overhand Knot Chain [13]
• 6 Solomon's Knot Chain [13]
• Combined Knots and Chains [15]
• 7 Knotted Bag [15]
• 8 Miniature Hammock—Knotted [16]
• 9 Miniature Portière—Knotted [17]
• Weaving [17]
• 10 Miniature Hammock—Woven [17]
• PAPER CONSTRUCTION
• Introductory Remarks [25]
• A Model Lesson [27]
• 1 Windmill or Pin-wheel [31]
• 2 Square Tray No. I [31]
• 3 Square Tray No. II [31]
• 4 Square Box with Cover [32]
• 5 Square or Rectangular Box [33]
• 6 Pencil Box with Sliding Cover [35]
• 7 Seed Box with Sections [37]
• 8 Picture Frame No. I, Diagonal Folds [37]
• 9 Picture Frame No. II [37]
• 10 Portfolio [40]
• 11 Barn—House—Furniture [41]
• 12 Hexagonal Tray [42]
• 13 Lamp Shade [44]
• 14 Star [45]
• 15 Notebook [46]
• 16 Bound Book [47]
• 17 Japanese Book [49]
• 18 Scrap-Book [50]
• WOOD CONSTRUCTION
• Introductory Remarks [55]
• 1 Puzzle [56]
• 2 Plant Label [58]
• 3 Pencil Sharpener [58]
• 4 Match Scratch [59]
• 5 Kite-String Winder [60]
• 6 Thermometer Back [61]
• 7 Pocket Pin-Cushion [61]
• 8 Picture Frame [63]
• 9 Japanese Box [65]
• 10 Grandfather's Chair [66]
• BASKETRY
• Introductory Remarks [71]
• Reed Construction [75]
• 1 Napkin Ring No. I [75]
• 2 Napkin Ring No. II [76]
• 3 Mat [76]
• 4 Hamper Basket [77]
• 5 Basket Tray [79]
• 6 Basket with Handle [81]
• Raffia Construction [83]
• 7 Plaited Rope [84]
• 8 Plaited Mat [85]
• 9 Purse [86]
• 10 Plaited Basket [86]
• 11 Hat of Plaited Rope [88]
• 12 Napkin Ring [89]
• 13 Indian Basket [89]
• 14 Grass Basket or Tray [91]
• 15 Basket of Splints and Raffia [93]
• Combined Reed and Raffia [95]
• 16 Umbrella [97]
• 17 Miniature Chair No. I [97]
• 18 Miniature Chair No. II [99]
• Rules for Caning Chairs [102]
• THE SCHOOL GARDEN
• Introductory Remarks [107]
• A City School Garden [108]

PART I
CORD CONSTRUCTION

CORD CONSTRUCTION

Introductory Remarks

To a child one of the most attractive of possessions is a piece of cord. He has so many uses for it that it becomes part of the prized contents of his pocket. Since this commodity affords so much pleasure to the untrained child, how greatly may the pleasure be enhanced if he is taught how to make the number of beautiful things that may be wrought from cord or twine! Having this knowledge, he will unconsciously employ many otherwise weary moments in fashioning some coveted article.

Among the things he can make are chains, reins, bags, nets, miniature hammocks, portières, and rugs for the dollhouse. He must be guided step by step from the simplest to the more intricate. He must be taught that only when a thing is well done has it any use or value, therefore the best effort is necessary to the success of his work. If he ties a knot, it must be properly tied or it will not hold. If he makes a bag or a hammock, the meshes must be uniform and the color blendings pleasing or it will lack beauty, and even he, himself, will not care for it. Should he make a chain or reins, they ought to be attractive-looking as well as useful; hence the aim should be for artistic combination and perfect execution. The success the child will meet with will depend greatly upon the attitude of the teacher toward the work and the amount of spirit she may be able to infuse into it.

KNOTS

Aim—To teach the names of different knots, how they are tied, and the utilitarian value of each.

Begin by teaching how to tie a knot, and that all knots are not alike nor tied in the same way. There are three kinds of knots—the overhand knot, the square knot and the "Granny" knot. Each of these has its use, its place, and a utilitarian value.

1 Overhand Knot

Material—One 10-inch piece of heavy twine.

Hold one end of the twine firmly in the left hand and throw the other end over with the right hand to form a loop; then pass the end in the right hand under the loop; and draw it through tightly, making a firm knot.

OVERHAND KNOT

A long piece of twine in which are tied either single knots at regular intervals, or groups of three or five knots with spaces between, will make a chain which will delight any small child.

2 Square Knot

Aim—To teach how to tie a knot that will not slip.

Material—One 12-inch piece of heavy twine.

Take an end of the twine between the thumb and the forefinger of each hand. Holding in the left hand end No. 1, pass it to the right over end No. 2; then pass it under No. 2; finally, pass it out and over, making the first tie. Now, holding end No. 1 firmly in the right hand and end No. 2 in the left, pass No. 1 to the left over No. 2, then under, out and over; draw the two ties together, and you will have a firm, square knot.

SQUARE KNOT

3 "Granny" Knot

Aim—To teach the name of the knot one usually ties and how to tie it.

Material—One 12-inch piece of heavy twine.

Take an end of the twine between the thumb and the forefinger of each hand and hold firmly. Pass end No. 1 to the right over end No. 2, under and out. Next pass end No. 2 to the right over end No. 1, under and out.

We now have the knot known as the "Granny," which we ordinarily tie.

CHAINS

4 Loop Chain

Material—One piece, 5 yards long, of macramé cord, No. 12, one color. (See page [12].)

About five inches from one end of the cord make a short loop. Using this loop as a starting-point, work up the length of the cord to within about eighteen inches of the other end, by repeatedly drawing a new loop through the one previously made as one does in crocheting. The child can easily manipulate the cord with his tiny fingers. Aim to have the loops of uniform size. Finish with a loop five inches long, leaving an end of the same length. Now, placing together the two ends of the chain, we have a loop and two single ends of cord. Take these single cords together and buttonhole them over the loop for about three inches, then twist. Tie the single ends with a square knot, and fringe them out; leave the loop.

LOOP CHAIN
Showing how stitch is made and appearance of finished chain.

Instead of being fringed, the ends may have a large bead attached to each, and a whistle may be strung on the loop. This would both make the chain attractive to the child and demonstrate a use for it.

5 Overhand Knot Chain

Material—Macramé cord, No. 12: one piece 2 yards long, white; one piece 2 yards long, red.

OVERHAND KNOT CHAIN

Fasten the two pieces together in the middle. Pin them to a board or slip them over a hook where the cord will be held firmly. Using the overhand knot, tie each color alternately, until all except about four inches of cord is used up. Taking four ends as one, tie a slip-knot close up to the point where you stopped forming the chain. Next, fringe out the four ends close up to the knot. The result is a circular cord with stripes running diagonally around it, very pleasing to the eye of a child.

The lengths here given make a fob-chain about five inches long.

6 Solomon's Knot Chain

Material—Four pieces of macramé cord, No. 12, 2-1/2 yards long, of one color. (See page [14].)

Double in the middle and leave two loops, each two inches long. Take two strands as the center and foundation and attach them to a hook or a board where they will be held firmly. Loop the two remaining threads alternately over the two central ones, first the one on the right, then the one on the left. For instance: Take a single cord on the left, form a loop to the left of the double cords, draw the end over the two foundation pieces and hold firmly. Then take a single cord on the right, pass it over the piece of cord which forms the loop, then under where the three pieces cross and up through the loop; draw it tight. Then work with a single cord on the right in the same way and continue, alternating the two single cords, until there is left about four inches. Clip the middle cords so that the four ends may be of equal length. Finish by tying them in a square knot and fringing the ends. This forms a flat chain one-quarter of an inch wide and one-eighth of an inch thick, which may be made any length desired.

SOLOMON'S KNOT CHAIN
Showing how stitch is made.

KNOTTED BAG

COMBINED KNOTS AND CHAINS

7 Knotted Bag

Material—Macramé cord, No. 12, one or two colors; twelve pieces 1 yard long or six pieces 1 yard long, of each of the two colors.

Double each piece of cord in the middle and tie it in a loop over a pencil or some other object that will make the loops of equal size. Slip the loops from the pencil and string them to a cord, alternating the colors. Join the ends of the cord so as to form a hoop. You now have twelve loops on this hoop and one row of knots. Form a second row of knots by tying cords of different colors together. The meshes should be uniform and of the size of the loops. Continue knotting one row below the other until about three inches of cord remain. Now stretch the bag out straight and double and tie together the four cords, which operation will form the bottom and close the bag. Fringe the ends and trim them off evenly.

Make a loop chain, and run it through the top loops, having removed the working cord. Small brass rings may be used at the top instead of loops, and the drawing string may be run through them. A larger bag may be made by the addition of more and longer pieces of twine.

MINIATURE HAMMOCK—KNOTTED

8 Miniature Hammock—Knotted

Material—Twelve pieces of seine cord, No. 12, each 2 yards long. Two iron rings, 1 inch in diameter.

String the pieces of cord through a ring, taking care that the ends are of the same length. About three inches from the ring, knot each piece of cord. This will make twelve knots and form the first row. For the second row, knot alternate pieces of cord. Continue until there are twelve rows of knots. Be careful to make the meshes the same size. Leave about three inches unknotted and attach these ends to the second ring. Make a twisted cord (of four thicknesses of macramé) of some contrasting color and run through the meshes of each side, taking it twice through each mesh and attaching it to rings at the ends of the hammock. The meshes should be about an inch square. Make the cords a little shorter than the sides of the hammock, in order to give it the proper spring. Take an extra piece of cord the color of the hammock and wrap it around the cords close up to the rings, winding it evenly and firmly for about an inch from the ring; fasten it securely.

9 Miniature Portière—Knotted

Material—Twelve 36-inch lengths of macramé cord, No. 12.

Double each piece in the middle and, using the overhand knot, tie it over a stout lead pencil or a very narrow ruler. See that each knot is pressed close to the foundation holder, that the loops may be of equal size. These loops and knots form the first row. Do not remove them from the holder. Separate the cords and knot together each two adjacent ones, alternating at every other row. Continue knotting until about three inches of cord remain to form the fringe at the bottom. Before tying the last row of knots, slip a colored glass bead over each set of cords, then make the knot so as to hold the bead in place. These beads are an ornament, apart from giving weight to the portière to make it hang well. Trim the fringe evenly, slip the portière from the foundation holder, and it is ready to hang.

Use beads the color of the cord, or of some effective contrasting shade. If a child is expert enough, a bead may be placed at every knot, adding decidedly to the attractiveness of the little portière. (See page [18].)

WEAVING

10 Miniature Hammock—Woven

Material—Tag-board loom 8×10 inches. Cord of one, two or three colors. Two brass rings, 1/2 inch in diameter.

MINIATURE PORTIERE—(For description see page [17].)

To make a loom, take a piece of tag-board 8×10 inches in size. Measure off one inch from the back edge and draw a line parallel to the back edge. Measure off one inch from the front edge and draw a line parallel to the front edge. Measure off one inch from the right edge and draw a line parallel to the right edge. Measure off one inch from the left edge and draw a line parallel to the left edge. You have now a 6×8-inch rectangle marked off, leaving a one-inch space around the edge of the tag-board. Start at a point where a vertical and a horizontal line intersect and mark off the six-inch ends into spaces one-fourth inch apart. Next with a large needle pierce the board at each point of intersection. This will make twenty-five eyelets at each end. On the reverse side of the board draw diagonals to determine the center. Tie together the two brass rings and fasten them firmly to the center of the reverse side.

BLANKET FOR DOLL'S BED
Showing how it is started.

To string the loom requires about fifteen yards of cord. Divide the cord into two lengths. Thread a length into a needle and tie one end of it to one of the brass rings. Next carry the cord from the ring through the thirteenth perforation, then across the face of the loom to the thirteenth perforation at the opposite end, through again to the reverse side and pass through the opposite ring from which it started. Repeat this operation by carrying the cord in a reverse direction each time until one-half the loom is strung. Then with the other length of cord start, by attaching it to the same ring to which the first piece was tied, and work in the opposite direction until the second half is strung. Should it be necessary to add to the cord, arrange that the knot be on an end near a ring. A knot in the warp hampers the weaving.

A RUG
Made of narrow strips of cotton cloth.

Have the warp threads and the predominant woof thread of the same color.

To begin weaving, cut a quantity of ten-inch lengths. Take one of these lengths, start in the center of the loom, and weave in and out among the warp threads, allowing it to extend two inches beyond on each side. Have a perfectly smooth, narrow, thin ruler and weave it in across the warp threads. As each horizontal or woof thread is added, shove it close to the preceding one with the ruler, which acts as a pusher. Weave first on one side of the center and then on the other, until the entire 6×8-inch space is covered. If a border is to be put in, gauge equal spaces from the center and work in the border of a different shade or color. The borders must be placed equally distant from the center and the same distance from each end. Take the overhanging cords and knot each alternate two together along the line of the outer warp thread. This will hold the woof threads in place, as well as finish the edges of the hammock. Comb these ends out and trim them, to get the fringe even. At each end where the weaving stops, take a needle threaded with a length of cord and run in and out along the warp threads, first to the right and then to the left of the final woof thread. This makes a secure finish and holds the woof threads in position. Next unfasten the rings and remove the hammock from the loom by tearing the tag-board along the lines of perforations. Finally, where the cords pass through the ring, hold them close to the ring and wrap them with a piece of cord for the distance of an inch, then fasten off by forcing the needle up through the wrapped space toward the ring; draw the end through and clip close to the ring. The hammock is now finished.

The question may arise: Why begin weaving in the center of the loom? The answer is: Because small children, and even older ones, sometimes, are not able to keep their warp threads parallel and as they approach the middle, where these threads give more, they naturally draw them in. This tendency is remedied to a great extent by beginning in the middle and weaving toward the ends, where the warp is confined in the board and keeps its place with no effort on the part of the child.

PART II
PAPER CONSTRUCTION

PAPER CONSTRUCTION

Introductory Remarks

Whatever may have been the true origin of the art of paper-making, it is now lost in obscurity. It is almost certain that the earliest form of paper was the papyrus of the Egyptians and that they were the first to use it as a writing material. They manufactured it from the stem of the papyrus plant, from which the name paper comes.

It is also known that the Chinese were versed in this art before the Christian Era, and that they made paper from the bark of various trees, the soft part of bamboo stems, and cotton. In India and China the practice of writing on dried palm and other leaves still obtains. It is probable that the employment of these fibrous substances, together with observation of the methods of paper-making wasps and other insects, led to manufacturing by pulping the materials and spreading them out.

As the Chinese seem to have been the pioneers in so many great inventions, so also they appear to have been the inventors of this art. From the Chinese the Arabians learned, in the seventh century, the craft of making paper from cotton, and they established a manufactory at Samarcand in 706 A. D. Here the Moors learned the art, and through them it was introduced into Spain. It is thought that the Moors used flax and hemp in addition to cotton in their manufacture of paper. The products of their mills are known to have been of a most superior quality, but, with the decline of the Moors, paper-making passed into less skilled hands, and the quality of the paper became inferior.

From Spain the art spread through the other countries of Europe, and as factories were established further north, where cotton was not a product nor easy to import, the necessity of substituting some other material probably led to the introduction of linen rags; but when they began to be used is uncertain. England was far behind the other countries of Northern Europe in introducing the industry of paper-making.

SCREEN—SIX-BY-NINE-INCH CONSTRUCTION PAPER

In the United States to-day paper in all varieties is manufactured to an enormous extent, and almost exclusively from vegetable matter. The book and newspaper trades demand an untold quantity.

There are three great types—writing, printing, and wrapping paper. Writing paper is made from rags and wood pulp. The staple for wrapping paper is old rope, and in some cases jute. The best writing and printing papers, however, are made from rags. From these as staples, all other varieties are developed, and we have paper for every use to which man can apply it.

Paper folding and modeling is not an ancient occupation, but a modern device, yet to the child it has a utilitarian value not to be overlooked. His nature demands that he be employed, and change of occupation is conducive to his happiness. Nothing is quite so restful to him as to do something with his hands; therefore, with his blocks he builds a house, fences it around with his splints, and strews the ground with imaginary trees and animals. He lives in this nursery play, and in it he is happy.

When he enters school, should he have only books? No, his hands still demand employment. He is now led to fashion from paper what he has already made with his blocks and toys. He is occupied, he is interested, and he is cultivating concentration and industrious habits. Is this worth while?

Begin the lessons with a talk on the manufacture and uses of paper. By a story, an association or the suggestion of a future use the child should be made to feel that he is doing something worth while. This will accentuate the interest and deepen the impression.

All models given may be increased or decreased in size if the proportions are adhered to, but the dimensions stated are those commonly used.

A Model Lesson

Aim—To construct a windmill or pin-wheel.

Each child should have a five-inch square, a slender stick five inches long, a pin, a ruler, a pair of scissors, and a lead pencil.

The children are supposed to know that every piece of paper, laid in position, has a back edge, a front edge, a right edge, a left edge, a right-back corner, a left-back corner, a right-front corner, a left-front corner, and that, in tracing, the forefinger of the right hand is used.

Three questions after each direction will be sufficient. The questions aim to have a complete statement in answer, and to develop an unconsciously correct use of the verb. This may appear slow at first, but soon the replies will come quickly and the answer will be correctly given.

WINDMILL, A

Teacher: "Children, lay your papers on your desk parallel with the front edge of the desk.—John, where are you to lay your paper?"

John: "I am to lay my paper on my desk parallel with the front edge of my desk."

Teacher: "Mary, where did you lay your paper?"

Mary: "I laid my paper on my desk parallel with the front edge of my desk."

Teacher: "Willie, where has Mary laid her paper?"

Willie: "Mary has laid her paper on her desk, parallel with the front edge of her desk."

Teacher: "Trace the back edge of your paper.—Anna, what are you to do to your paper?"

Anna: "I am to trace the back edge of my paper."

Teacher: "Harry, what did you do to your paper?"

Harry: "I traced the back edge of my paper."

Teacher: "Jessie, what have you done to your paper?"

Jessie: "I have traced the back edge of my paper."

Teacher: "Each child place the forefinger on the right-back corner of the paper.—Charles, what are you to do?"

Charles: "I am to place my forefinger on the right-back corner of my paper."

Teacher: "Anna, what did you do?"

Anna: "I placed my forefinger on the right-back corner of my paper."

Teacher: "Laurence, what have you done?"

Laurence: "I have placed my forefinger on the right-back corner of my paper."

Teacher: "Take your ruler and lay it across your paper from the left-back corner to the right-front corner.—Margaret, what are you to do?"

Margaret: "I am to lay my ruler on my paper from the left-back corner to the right-front corner."

Teacher: "Draw a line connecting the left-back corner of your paper with the right-front corner.—James, what did you draw?"

James: "I drew a line connecting the left-back corner of my paper with the right-front corner."

Teacher: "Alice, what have you drawn?"

Alice: "I have drawn a line connecting the left-back corner of my paper with the right-front corner."

Now have the children draw a line connecting the reverse diagonal corners and proceed as follows:

Teacher: "Find the point where the lines cross. This is the center or middle point of your paper.—Albert, what are you to find?"

Albert: "I am to find the point where the lines cross, which is the center of my paper."

Teacher: "Measure one inch from this point on each of the four lines and place a dot.—Sara, what did you measure?"

Sara: "I measured one inch from the center of my paper on each of the four lines and placed a dot."

Teacher: "Lay your pencil and your ruler down. Place your paper on your desk parallel with its front edge and lay your left hand on the right-front corner. Turn the paper until this corner is directly in front of you. Take your scissors and cut along the ruled line from the corner to the point one inch from the center.

WINDMILL, B

"Lay down your scissors. Turn your paper from right to left until the next corner faces you. Cut. Move the paper from right to left again until the third corner faces you. Cut. Bring the fourth corner to face you. Cut. There are now eight points. Turn each alternate point to the center, run the pin through all of them and fasten the wheel to the stick."

Final questions.

Teacher: "What did you make?"

Pupil: "I made a pin-wheel."

Teacher: "What have you made?"

Pupil: "I have made a pin-wheel."

Teacher: "What has Ellen made?"

Pupil: "Ellen has made a pin-wheel."

When older pupils have completed a model it is excellent practice to have them write a full description of how it is made and the materials used.

1 Windmill, or Pin-Wheel

Material—One piece of construction paper, 5×5 inches. Stick, 5×1/4×1/4 inches. One pin. (See pages [28] and [30].)

Fold the square on the diagonals. Cut the diagonals to within one-half inch of the center. Bend alternate corners over until the point of each touches the center. Fasten the four points in the center by running the pin through them and driving it into the stick.

2 Square Tray No. I

Material—Construction paper, 5×5 inches. (See page [32].)

Measure off one inch on four sides, and connect the points with a line parallel to the edge of the paper. Score lightly each line. Cut out the four corner squares. Turn up the sides, fasten the corners together with raffia or cord, tying a small bow.

3 Square Tray No. II

Material—Construction paper, 5×5 inches. (See page [33].)

Fold and crease into sixteen small squares. Score lightly the four lines nearest the outer edge. Draw one diagonal pointing toward the center of each corner square. Next draw half of the diagonal extending in the opposite direction. Fold the paper on the lines scored. Crease the diagonals 1-2, making the crease extend to the inside of the tray, and press until lines 1-4 and 1-3 meet. Now we have a triangle on the inside of the tray. Fold this over on half-diagonal, No. 5, and press to the side of the tray. This will fasten together firmly the corners of the tray.

SQUARE TRAY No. I—(For description see page [31].)

4 Square Box with Cover

Materials—Construction paper, 6×6 inches. (See page [34].)

Measure off from the outer edge two lines, one inch apart. Score these lines. In each corner there are four one-inch squares. Cut off 1, 2, and 3; then draw the diagonal of 4 pointing toward the center of the paper. Crease and fold on these diagonals, extending the triangle inward. Fold this triangle over to half its size; press to the inside of the box. Edges 5-6, 5-7 will meet to form the corners of the box, and cover flaps 8-9 will fall naturally into place. Result, box four inches square, one inch deep, with folding cover.

5 Square or Rectangular Box

SQUARE TRAY No. II—(For description see page [31].)

Material—Construction paper, 4×4 inches or 4×6 inches.

Measure off a margin one inch all around, and score. Cut as indicated on page [35]. Fold over the border to half its width, as 1 over to 2. Bend up on line 2-3. When the edge is folded over a little tongue is formed at each end. Slip this tongue under the fold of the adjacent side, and it will fasten the sides of the box firmly together. A lid may be made exactly as the box is made.

SQUARE BOX WITH COVER—(For description see page [32].)

A beautiful Christmas box may be made of red paper, or gray decorated with holly. Made of white paper, with a chicken (in yellow) painted on the lid, it is appropriate for Easter.

SQUARE BOX—(For description see pages [33] and [34].)

6 Pencil Box with Sliding Cover

Material—Construction paper: one 7-inch square; one rectangle 4×9 inches. (See page [36].)

Drawer. Lay the rectangle on the desk with the nine-inch edge parallel with the front edge of the desk. Draw a line one inch from the back edge and parallel with it. Draw a line one inch from the front edge and parallel with it. Draw a line one inch from the right edge and parallel with it; and a line one inch from the left edge and parallel with it. Score, bend and crease on these lines. Cut the lines on the right and the left edges to where they intersect the lines on the back and the front edges. Fold and glue. The laps are pasted on the inside and give strength to the ends of the drawer.

PENCIL BOX WITH SLIDING COVER

Cover (seven-inch square). Measure off one and one-fourth inches, and construct a line parallel to the back edge. Measure one inch and draw a line parallel to this. Measure off two and one-sixteenth inches (shy) and draw a third parallel line. Measure one inch again and draw a fourth line parallel to the other three. Score and fold on these lines. Lap the space at the back edge over the space at the front edge until they form a rectangle two and one-sixteenth by seven inches in size, to correspond with the opposite one, which is the top of the cover. Glue. Slide in the drawer and the pencil box is completed.

7 Seed Box with Sections

Material—Construction paper: two rectangles 8×9 inches; one rectangle 2×5-1/2 inches; one rectangle 2×4-1/2 inches. (See page [38].)

Take one 8×9-inch rectangle for the body of the box and lay off a two-inch space all around. Cut on dotted lines. Score and crease, fold and glue. The laps are glued to the inside and each one turned to the right. When the partitions are put in the laps mark where the ends go, as well as brace the ends of them. Take the two rectangles, 2×4-1/2 inches and 2×5-1/2 inches, and draw a line one-half inch from each of the two-inch edges. Score and crease. These form the laps for pasting the partitions in. On these partitions turn all four laps to the right, to coincide with the laps on the box. Dovetail the partitions by cutting a slit one inch deep in the center of each and slipping one over the other. Next glue them to the inside of the box.

Cover. Take the second 8×9-inch rectangle and mark off a two-inch space (shy) all around. Find middle of nine-inch edges and draw lines 1-2, 2-3, and 2-4. Cut out these two triangles. Cut the corners on the dotted lines. Score, fold, and glue. Notice that in the lids the laps are not turned as in the body of the box. Here, as in the drawer of the pencil-box, the laps are glued to the ends of the cover, concentrating strength there and producing symmetry in construction.

8 Picture Frame No. I—Diagonal Folds

Material—Construction paper, 5×5 inches. (See page [39].)

Fold on the diagonals. Bring each corner over until it touches the center; crease. Fold each corner back again until its point touches the outside edge at the middle section; crease.

9 Picture Frame No. II

Material—Construction paper, 4-1/2×16-1/2 inches. (See page [40].)

SEED BOX WITH SECTIONS—(For description see page [37].)

Divide the length into three equal parts, making three rectangles 4-1/2×5-1/2 inches in size. In the middle rectangle, measure off and cut out a rectangle 2-1/4×3 inches in size. Fold rectangle No. 3 up and back of rectangle No. 2. Holding the two firmly together, punch two holes, one-fourth inch apart, on each side, and one-fourth inch from the outer edges (see diagram). Draw a piece of raffia or ribbon through these holes and tie in a bow. Fold back rectangle No. 1 for support.

PICTURE FRAME No. I—(For description see page [37].)

PICTURE FRAME No. II—(For description see pages [37] and [39].)

10 Portfolio

Material—Heavy manila paper, 7-1/2×12 inches. (See page [41].)

Fold edge No. 1 over and even with edge No. 2. Crease and fold. On each side of A mark and cut off one-half inch. Clip off the corners of the flaps on B. Fold the flaps of B over on A and paste. Find the middle of edges 1 and 2. With a radius of one inch, describe a semicircle and cut it out.

PORTFOLIO—(For description see page [40].)

11 Barn—House—Furniture

Material—Construction paper, 8×8 inches or 10×10 inches. (See page [42].)

Fold a square into sixteen small squares of equal size; crease. With this as a basis throw the child on his own resources, allowing him to invent a pattern and make a chair, a sofa, or any piece of furniture that he can devise from such a square. A corner may have to be cut out or a slit made, but impress upon the child that, as far as possible, the model must be gotten by folding, with very little or no cutting.

By using a larger square and folding in the same way, a house or a barn may be made. Add a chimney and steps from an extra piece of paper.

12 Hexagonal Tray

Material—Construction paper, 7×7 inches.

HEXAGONAL TRAY

Draw one diameter; find the center. With a radius of three and one-half inches describe a circle. (The circumference of a circle is six times the radius). Place a point of the compass at one intersection of the circumference and the diameter, and divide the circle into six equal parts. With a radius of two inches, describe an inner circle parallel to the outer one. Connect opposite points of the outer circle by drawing two more diameters. This will divide the inner circle into six equal parts. Connect by straight lines the adjacent points of the inner circle, as 1-2; score. At the intersections of the outer circle, mark off one-half inch on each side and by straight lines connect both these points with the opposite points of intersection of the inner circle, as 2-3, 2-4. This forms two equal triangles, one of which is to be cut out, as 4-2-5, and the other, as 3-2-5, left. Having cut out the six triangles, bend up on lines scored, bring the sides together, and use triangle 3-2-5 as a lap for pasting.

13 Lamp Shade

Material—Construction paper, 7×10 inches. Japanese rice paper, 7×10 inches.

LAMP SHADE, A

Select a pretty shade of brown, green or red construction paper. Measure off two inches and construct a line parallel to the ten-inch length. Bisect this line. Place the compass at this point of bisection and with a radius of four inches describe a semicircle, 1-2; extend this arc to 3, and draw the line 3-4. With a radius of one inch describe an inner semicircle (5-6) parallel to the outer one. Again, with a radius of one inch describe a third semicircle, parallel to the other two. Set the compass at half the radius and divide each semicircle into six equal parts. Connect these points of intersection by straight lines (9-10). Make a stencil that will fit in one of these sections. Using the stencil, draw the same figure in each section. Carefully cut out the stenciled space. Next lay the construction paper on the Japanese rice paper and trace on it the stencil design. Remove the construction paper and, with two blending colors of crayon, color the figure or design traced on the Japanese paper. Again, lay the construction paper on the rice paper and glue the two together. Cut out the shade as marked off, bring the two edges together, and glue.

LAMP SHADE, B

If you wish the lower edge scalloped, cut it as shown in the diagram. By folding and creasing on the lines of intersection the shade may be made hexagonal in shape. All designs for decoration are supposed to be original.

14 Star

Material—Construction paper, two 8-inch squares. Raffia.

Take an eight-inch square. Fold the front edge over to the back edge; crease. On the left edge place a point one and one-half inches from the left-back corner. Carry the right-front corner over to this point; fold and crease. Turn the left triangle under; fold and crease. Next, as the paper stands in your hand with the triangle facing you, fold the right edge over to the left edge; crease. Where the three edges of the paper come together, begin at the highest point and cut across the paper from right to left to within two and one-half inches of the center. Open out the paper and you have the star.

A picture frame made of a five-pointed star is very pretty. Cut two stars of the same size. From the center of one cut a star one inch smaller for a mat. Lay this mat on the solid or foundation star and glue four of the points together. In the fifth point pierce two holes through both pieces, about an inch from the apex of the point. Slip in the picture. Take a piece of raffia or cord and tie a loop with two ends. Bring these ends through the holes from the back to the front and tie them in a bow. By the loop at the back the frame is hung.

PICTURE FRAME FROM FIVE-POINTED STAR

15 Notebook

Material—Construction paper, 6-1/2×7 inches, for cover. Manila paper, four pieces 6×6-1/2 inches, for leaves.

Fold the piece of construction paper down the middle, so as to form the 3-1/2×6-1/2-inch cover. In the same way crease the manila paper for the leaves. Place the leaves within the cover; with heavy silk or fine twine sew them to the back. Bring the needle through one inch from the upper edge, one inch from the lower edge, and in the middle. The long stitch is on the inside, the two short ones are on the outside, both ends of the thread are brought through the center to the inside and tied over the long stitch to hold it in place. Leave the ends an inch long and fringe them.