Please see the [Transcriber’s Notes] at the end of this document.

Chicago to the Sea

“CHICAGO TO THE SEA.”

EASTERN
EXCURSIONIST

A COMPLETE GUIDE
TO THE

Principal

Eastern

Summer

Resorts.

INCLUDING
Niagara Falls, The White Mountains, Saint Lawrence
and Saguenay Rivers, Montreal and Quebec,
the New England Sea Beaches, etc.,
AND
HOW AND WHEN TO ENJOY THEM.

By William C. Gage,
AUTHOR OF “THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA,” “HAND-BOOK OF TRAVEL,” “PLEASURE RESORTS
OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST,” “GOOD BEHAVIOR AT HOME AND ABROAD,” ETC.

Battle Creek, Mich.
REVIEW & HERALD STEAM PRINTING WORKS.
New York: Union News Company.
1883.

COPYRIGHTED
1883,
BY WM. C. GAGE.

NOTES—INTRODUCTORY.

I.—EASTWARD HO!

While it is true that the great tide of travel, like the “star of empire,” is ever westward, and the iron-bound highways leading toward the setting sun are the channels through which this current surges with ever-increasing volume, yet like those of the ocean, this tide has its ebb as well as flow. The business relations which exist between the East and the West render necessary a constant intercommunication, which of itself is sufficient to account for much of the returning travel. In addition to this, the social relations also exert their influence. The man who “went West” to make his fortune desires to revisit the home of his youth on the Eastern hillside. Perhaps his children, who have grown up on the prairies, wish to see the hills and valleys so often described by their parents, and contrast the almost boundless expanses of the “great West” with the rugged mountain scenery and the rocky farms, where unceasing toil, coupled, perhaps, with honest poverty, laid the foundation for sterling integrity, which the ease and freedom of Western life have not served to obliterate.

The attractions of the natural scenery of the East are of themselves sufficient to call to them annually thousands of tourists, who, independently of the causes already mentioned, occupy their “summer vacations” with an Eastern tour simply for the enjoyment of the attractions presented in the way of pleasant routes of travel, and the scenery to be enjoyed on the way or at the objective point of the journey.

With a view of meeting the wants of this great and constantly increasing class of excursionists, this work has been written. It is designed to point out the most desirable routes between Chicago and the Eastern seaboard, and to serve as a book of ready reference by the way. The lines of travel chosen are such as will give the tourist the most favorable opportunities for visiting the celebrated summer resorts en route, and secure the advantages of palace coaches, dining cars, quick transit, and sure connections,—considerations which combine to make a journey enjoyable, and by means of which a trip becomes a luxury as a means as well as an end.

The descriptions are made simple and practical, and with no effort to impart a roseate hue to the scenes described, but with a view to aid the tourist in “seeing with his own eyes” the beauties of landscape or other scenery from the most favorable points of observation, and discover for himself the things too often seen only through the medium of the guide book.

II.—SUMMER TRAVEL.

The benefits arising from a summer jaunt, with its release from the cares of business, are of inestimable value. “Work and worry” are killing hundreds who might be saved to long life and happiness could they but break away from their toil for a trip to the mountains or seaside, or some other place where business could for the time be forgotten. Though the respite be only a brief one, a break in the monotony of a busy life will sometimes relieve the tension which if too long continued snaps asunder the strings which need relaxation to preserve their strength.

The man who esteems his life work too important to admit of vacations sometimes learns, when too late for remedy, that unremitting application to his task has totally disqualified him for its continuance, and long before the period when he ought to be in his prime, he is compelled to relinquish to others the work he so fondly hoped to finish himself. A little relaxation now and then might have saved him from a collapse, but “he couldn’t afford the time.”

Happily for the American business world, the infection of “summer travel” grows more and more contagious as its benefits become better understood. Year by year the tide increases in volume, and the facilities of travel are multiplied to meet the demand. If these pages shall serve to assist the tourist in the choice of his route, or, the choice being made, in rendering his journey more enjoyable, their purpose will be fully met.

CHICAGO TO THE SEA.

THE STARTING POINT.

Chicago, the great metropolis of the Northwest, with its multitude of railroad lines, and its enormous commercial interests, is most naturally the point of departure for east-bound tourists. Travelers from localities west of Chicago will desire to tarry in the city for a brief period, to visit its water-works, the grand exposition building, and the variety of other objects of interest which render the place attractive to strangers. In carrying out this purpose, they will find the hotel accommodations of the city to be second to none in America. The Grand Pacific, Palmer, Clifton, Briggs, Sherman, Merchants, and a host of others of good repute, invite the tourist to share their hospitalities, with the assurance of regal fare and sumptuous accommodations. For full information in regard to Chicago hotels and their terms, the reader is referred to the Daily National Hotel Reporter, which gives reliable and complete advices on this subject.

The limits of this work forbid even a mention of the many objects of interest to be seen in Chicago; and having to do with the city only as the starting point for our tourist, we next settle the question as to the route by which our Eastern journey is to be performed. Keeping in view the important points of speed, safety and comfort, together with the attractiveness of the scenery en route, we find the claims of

THE MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD

To be of a character to meet all the requirements of the most exacting traveler. It has long been known as the Niagara Falls Route, and its recent acquirement of the Canada Southern Railway, making now a continuous line from Chicago to the very verge of the famous cataract, more fully than ever entitles it to that appellation. Its through sleeping-car connections, its superior equipment, its famous dining-cars, together with the attractive country which it traverses, and the many interesting points reached by it, all combine to decide the question of superiority, and influence the tourist in his choice of routes.

The traveler arriving in Chicago by other roads, and not desiring to tarry in the city, can be immediately transferred by Parmelee’s omnibus line to the depot of the Michigan Central, at the foot of Lake street, and taking his seat in a Wagner drawing-room car, commence his journey with baggage checked through to destination, and with the assurance that his comfort will be carefully considered on the part of the train employés from the beginning of his trip to the end of the road.

THE CELEBRATED FAST EXPRESS

Of this road leaves Chicago in the afternoon, and as all first-class tickets are accepted on this train without extra charge, it is a favorite with the traveling public. In the season of summer travel, it is a popular tourists’ train, on account of its timely arrival at Niagara, allowing the excursionist to spend the entire day at the Falls, and take the evening train for the St. Lawrence River, which is reached at Clayton the next morning. From this point, the elegant day boats of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company make the trip down the river to Montreal, via Round Island Park, the celebrated Thousand Islands, the famous Rapids, and past the most lovely scenery of this beautiful river, which stoutly contests with the Hudson the claim to the title of the “Rhine of America.” The entire journey is by daylight, the boats reaching Montreal at 6 P. M. This trip, which will be more fully described in its proper place, constitutes one of the delightful features of the excursion “to the sea,” and has been immensely popularized by the efforts of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company, which is the only line down the St. Lawrence running boats exclusively for passenger service. It has won its way to the favor of the traveling public in the two past years of successful operation, being popularly known as the New American Line.

But to return to the point of digression. Leaving Chicago by any of the express trains of the Michigan Central, the tourist has at his service all the facilities which make pleasant a journey by rail. The celebrated Wagner drawing-room and sleeping cars are run through to New York and Boston without change, dining cars are attached to the trains at convenient hours for meals, and courteous and attentive conductors, train men, porters, etc., contribute to the comfort and pleasure of the traveler as occasion presents for their services.

The ride out of the city and through the suburbs for a considerable distance is along the shores of Lake Michigan, presenting views of the lake craft, with their white sails, or clouds of smoke and vapor from their stacks, as far as the eye can reach. The government pier, with its protecting wall, stretches along the shore, and in the distance may be seen the “crib” of the water-works.

On the other hand, the Douglas monument and park present themselves to view, together with numerous interesting objects peculiar to the suburbs of a great city, until, increasing its speed, the train passes fairly into the open country, which is here and there dotted with a suburban residence, or the buildings of some thrifty farmer, or perchance a pretty village, whose inhabitants have their business interests in Chicago, but their homes in the quiet suburbs of the bustling city.

Fifteen miles out, we pass the charming town of Pullman, a model settlement, sometimes called the “magic city,” with its elegant buildings, all of brick, in the most approved styles of architecture. Its important industrial enterprises are largely connected with the interests of travel, comprising the Allen paper car-wheel shops, the Pullman car manufactory, and various other establishments which contribute to the prosperity of this flourishing town.

At about this stage of the journey, if on board the Fast Express, or the later train known as the Atlantic, the tourist is greeted with the welcome announcement, from a man in white cap and apron, looking as though he had just stepped in from the Palmer House café,

“DINNER NOW READY IN THE DINING CAR.”

Among the modern comforts of railway traveling, the dining-car system takes a prominent place. The hasty scramble for refreshments at a wayside restaurant, with the constant fear of “getting left,” and a consequent bolting of half-masticated food, with dyspepsia in its train, now gives place to a leisurely eaten meal, served in elegant style, with all the appointments and conveniences that can be suggested by the most refined taste. The Michigan Central was among the first to adopt this innovation, and so popular has it become as an adjunct to their already long list of popular features, that they have recently constructed four of these elegant hotels upon wheels, and placed them upon their line between Chicago and Niagara Falls. These dining cars are models of taste, elegance and convenience, with spacious kitchens, store rooms and lavatories, large plate-glass windows, folding or opera chairs, and in fact every convenience that taste and experience could suggest for the comfort of their patrons.

A glance at the menu, which is as complete as that of a first-class hotel attests the fact that the gratification of its patrons, and not profit to its treasury, is the first great aim of the company in operating the dining-car system. Indeed, it may well be questioned how such elegant meals can be furnished for the sum of seventy-five cents, when a similar repast at many a hotel in the land would cost from one to two dollars. Perhaps a solution of the problem may be found in the remark of a shrewd Yankee, who once sat opposite the writer at table in one of these cars. He had evidently fasted for many hours previous, as his voracious appetite clearly indicated. On rising from the table, he soliloquized thus: “Well, I guess this concern han’t made much out o’ me this time, but I shall allus come by this route hereafter.”

The dining-car system is also in successful operation on the Canada division of the Michigan Central, the equipments and appointments being of the same character and completeness. Indeed, so popular has this feature become, that several other cars are in course of construction to extend the system in a manner to meet every demand of the public for accommodation in this direction.

But while we have been thus indulging in reflections on this subject, the train has been speeding onward, and here we are at Michigan City, on the extreme southern shore of Lake Michigan, and the great lumber port of Northern Indiana. It is a railroad center of some importance, the Indianapolis, Peru & Chicago, and Louisville, New Albany & Chicago Railroads occupying the union depot with the Michigan Central. The population is about eight thousand, and its principal business interests are manufacturing and lumber. The view of the city from the car windows gives a less favorable impression of the place than a closer inspection entitles it to, the immense sand bluffs and unpretending buildings on the lake shore being the most conspicuous objects near the track. The city proper is quite an attractive and pleasant locality. Its chief hotels are the St. Nicholas, Union and Jewell.

Ten miles further eastward, we reach New Buffalo, the southern terminus of the Chicago & West Michigan Railroad, which from this point skirts the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, forming the shore line to Pentwater. It is a pretty little town of about one thousand inhabitants.

Passing several stations at which the express trains make no stop, twenty miles further on we reach Niles, a flourishing city of nearly five thousand inhabitants.

The Michigan Central has a branch road running from this point to South Bend, and it is also the western terminus of its “Air Line” division, the other being Jackson. Much of the freight business of the road is done over this division, relieving the main line for the better accommodation of its immense passenger traffic. Mercantile and manufacturing interests occupy the attention of the thriving people of Niles, a superior water power furnishing excellent facilities for flour and paper mills and other enterprises, which combine to make this an important business center. Its leading hotels are the Bond, Pike and Farler.

At Lawton, thirty-one miles from Niles, connection is made with the Paw Paw Railroad for Hartford, Lawrence and Paw Paw. The express trains do not stop, however, but, hurrying onward, the next important station is that so well known as the “Big Village.”

Kalamazoo, with a population of about twelve thousand, and no city charter, prides itself on being one of the largest villages in America. Except in its municipality, however, it is, to all intents and purposes, a city, with its extensive public works, its thriving manufacturing establishments, and its important railroad interests. The South Haven division of the Michigan Central extends westward from here to the shore of Lake Michigan. Intersection is also made with the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad and the Kalamazoo division of the Lake Shore Railway. The manufacturing and mercantile interests of Kalamazoo are quite extensive, and it has also acquired no little celebrity as a market for superior agricultural products. Its leading hotels are the Burdick House, Kalamazoo House and American House.

Battle Creek, twenty-three miles east of Kalamazoo, is the next important city on the route, and is one of the most thriving and enterprising towns in the State. Many of its business interests are on an extensive scale, notably the manufacture of threshing machinery and engines, three large establishments being devoted to this industry. On approaching the city the buildings of the Review & Herald Publishing establishment are among the first to attract attention, and just before the train comes to a halt, it passes the shops of the Battle Creek Machinery Company, which are on the left of the track, while the factory of the Union School Furniture Company is nearly opposite, on the right. The products of the former company are shipped to all parts of the world, while the “Automatic” school-seat is acquiring a national reputation as one of the most convenient and unique articles of furniture ever put in use in a school-room.

The intersection of the Michigan Central, the Chicago & Grand Trunk, and the Toledo & Milwaukee Railroads, the latter just completed, renders Battle Creek an important railroad center, and accounts for the rapid and prosperous growth of the city. This is also the location of the

CELEBRATED MEDICAL AND SURGICAL SANITARIUM,

Which has gained an enviable reputation as an invalid’s home. Although not originally designed as a summer resort, its facilities in that direction have made it a favorite summer home for many who would hardly call themselves invalids. Here may be found a remedy for one great drawback to the success of summer vacations in general, which are often robbed of much of their sanitary benefit by poor food and inattention to the laws of health. While the cuisine of this establishment is of the most bounteous character, it is especially ordered with reference to healthfulness, and is in itself one important element of the great success of the institution in curing the sick.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL SANITARIUM.—MAIN BUILDING.

The facilities of the Sanitarium for the treatment of disease are the best known to modern medical science. In addition to baths of every description, including Turkish, Russian, vapor, electro-vapor, thermal, etc., the employment of massage, Swedish movements, and the various forms of electrical treatment, are provided for by costly appliances, some of which were designed expressly for this institution. When we add that the medical superintendent, Dr. J. H. Kellogg, is a member of the State Board of Health, and occupies a position of great prominence as a writer and lecturer on sanitary matters, and that a staff of educated and intelligent gentlemen and lady physicians are constantly caring for patients and visitors, we have indicated some of the reasons for the marvelous prosperity of the institution. Our [illustration] gives a view of the main building. A large number of cottages and other buildings make up the facilities of the Sanitarium for taking care of its guests.

The leading hotels of Battle Creek are the Lewis House and the Williams House, the Sanitarium being also a favorite transient home with many travelers.

Shortly after leaving the station at Battle Creek, the train comes to a halt at the crossing of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway, at the station named Nichols, the location of the extensive works where are manufactured the celebrated Nichols, Shepard & Co.’s “Vibrator” threshing machinery, engines, etc. This is one of the most important industries of the city, giving employment to a large number of skilled mechanics. Just beyond are the railroad shops of the C. & G. T. Company, which also furnish employment to a goodly number of men.

Marshall, the next important station, is a pleasant little town, the county seat of Calhoun county, with some manufacturing interests, and considerable wealth, being the center of a large and prosperous agricultural district. It is widely known among travelers as the dining station of the Michigan Central Railroad. The day trains still make their stops here for dinner, and the hours of midday are among the liveliest the people of this quiet place witness. It is the boast of the managers of the dining-rooms that a failure to provide chicken pie for their guests has occurred but once in seventeen years, although fabulous prices often have to be paid for the feathered bipeds to perpetuate the time-honored custom.

The Tontine, Forbes and Tremont Houses are the principal hotels.

Albion is the next town of much importance in our journey, and is really a thriving place, some of its manufactures being widely known. It is also the seat of Albion College, a flourishing denominational school, under the management of the Methodists. Our road here intersects the Lansing division of the Lake Shore Railway. The principal hotels of Albion are the Commercial and the Albion House.

Our next important station is Jackson, the largest city in the interior of the State. As the central point of heavy railroad interests, important manufactures, and extensive commercial enterprises, the city is well known. The State prison is located here, and is of itself a manufacturing establishment of no little importance. The railroad shops of the Michigan Central give employment to nearly a thousand men, and thus contribute largely to the city’s prosperity. The mineral resources of the vicinity are of no small magnitude, comprising coal, salt, fire clay, etc.

It is the terminus of the Grand River Valley, Air Line, and Saginaw divisions of the Michigan Central Railroad and the Fort Wayne and Jackson branches of the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway. Passengers change here for the pleasure resorts of northern Michigan, via the Mackinaw Division of the Central, with which connection is made at Bay City.

The Hibbard House, the Hurd House, the Commercial, and several smaller hotels, take good care of travelers who have occasion to tarry in Jackson.

Thirty-eight miles west of Detroit, the train halts at Ann Arbor, the county seat of Washtenaw county, which has a resident population of about ten thousand, not including the students of the State University, which number nearly fifteen hundred. The city is pleasantly situated on both sides of the Huron River, its streets being wide, finely laid out, and adorned with shade trees. The Toledo, Ann Arbor & Grand Trunk Railway gives the place a north and south business outlet, while the Central takes care of the east and west business. The Huron River furnishes excellent water power, and the flourishing industries of the city show how well it is improved.

UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN.

In addition to all these, its reputation as an educational center places it among the most important of Michigan cities. Its local public schools are of a high order of excellence, especially its High School, which occupies an elegant building costing $50,000. But its chief importance in this respect is from the fact of its being the seat of the University of Michigan, with its departments of literature, science and arts, law, medicine, pharmacy, dental surgery, and engineering. This institution has almost a world-wide reputation as one of the foremost schools in the land, and indeed many of its students are from abroad, attracted by its fame, and the excellent facilities at their command.

The St. James, Cook, and Leonard Houses, are the principal hotels.

Ypsilanti, eight miles distant from Ann Arbor, is the next stopping place, and is a pleasant town of some five thousand inhabitants. The fine water power of Huron River is here utilized by several manufactories, among which that of paper-making is brought to a high state of excellence. In addition to the railroad facilities afforded by the Michigan Central, it has southerly communication by means of a branch of the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway. It is the seat of the State Normal School, which occupies an elegant building, and beautiful grounds, the latter donated to the State for the purpose. There are many fine residences here, some of them the homes of business men of Detroit.

STATE NORMAL SCHOOL.

The Roberts, Lewis, and Hawkins Houses, the European, and several others, furnish adequate hotel accommodations.

From Ypsilanti, the train speeds swiftly over the smoothest of tracks, past pleasant villages, through verdant fields, and in view of snug farm-houses, the next important stopping places being Wayne Junction, where connection is made with the Flint & Pere Marquette Railroad, and Springwells, formerly Grand Trunk Junction, three miles beyond which is

DETROIT, THE CITY OF THE STRAIT.

The largest city in Michigan, and its commercial metropolis, it is beautifully situated on the Detroit River, 18 miles from Lake Erie, and 7 from Lake St. Clair. It is one of the prettiest, pleasantest cities in all the West, and the oldest, as well. Its rapid growth during the past twenty years is a marked feature in connection with its history. The many lines of railroad centering here, and its extensive commercial interests, together with the rich agricultural region which here finds an outlet for its products, all contribute to the prosperity of the city.

The excursionist will find much to interest in a visit to Detroit. Its location upon the river, which is here about half a mile wide, suggests excursions by water, which constitute a considerable share of the recreation of its people, by the numerous lines of steamers which ply between the city and various points on the river and the lakes. The public parks of the city afford pleasant “breathing places” for those who choose to avail themselves of their advantages. In addition to the older resorts of this class, the city has recently purchased Belle Isle, with an area of about 800 acres, and a park commission are engaged in the work of improvement, the result of which will be the providing of a place of recreation for citizens and visitors, comparing favorably with the parks of any of the large cities. Boats leave at frequent intervals for the Island, from the foot of Woodward Avenue.

To notice the many attractions which tempt the tourist to prolong his stay in the beautiful City of the Strait would require too much of our space. We can only add that the resources of the vicinity in the way of entertainment and recreation are ample, and of sufficient variety to render a visit to the city an occasion of much enjoyment. The hotel facilities are unexcelled, comprising fifty or more, including the Antisdel, Brunswick, Griswold, Madison, Michigan Exchange, Rice’s Temperance, St. Charles, Russell, and a variety of lesser houses, at all prices. At those above mentioned, the terms range from $1 to $3.50 per day.

CROSSING THE FERRY.

Continuing our eastward journey from Detroit, the river is crossed to the Canada shore by means of the ferry, and the transhipment of the train is an operation of much interest to one who observes it for the first time. The mammoth transfer boat, capable of holding, in several sections, the long passenger train, is securely fastened to the dock, and the cars are run on, with their load of passengers and baggage. The powerful machinery of the boat is set in motion, and in a few moments the train is again made up at Windsor, on the Canada side, ready to proceed on its way.

Windsor, the western terminus of the Canada division of the Michigan Central Railroad, is a flourishing town of about eight thousand inhabitants directly across the river from Detroit. The town of Sandwich, two miles below, has some celebrity as a summer resort on account of its mineral springs.

The chief interest of the American tourist in regard to Canada, however, is in getting through it. While there are many things worthy of note in connection with the homes of our cousins over the border, they are best appreciated by a longer tarry than can be afforded by the excursionist who makes a flying trip between the West and the East. The prejudice of the native American, so frequently manifested against everything Canadian, is often as unfounded as it is unreasonable. To be sure, the difference between Canada and the States in habits and customs is sometimes quite marked, but frequently not more so than that existing between different sections of our own country. The railroad is doing much toward the annihilation of all these differences, by facilitating intercourse and the comingling of the people of all sections.

The trip through Canada is via the Canada division, formerly the

CANADA SOUTHERN RAILWAY,

And is the only line through Canada under distinctively American management. While the Michigan division of the road contributes a large amount of local business, even to the express trains, the less populous districts of Canada are sufficiently accommodated by the local trains, allowing the through expresses to make long and rapid runs, with few stops. The fast New York express, for instance, is timed to make the run from Windsor to St. Thomas, a distance of 111 miles, with only a single stop, about midway. The level country through which the road passes, with the long stretches of air line, many miles in extent, are conducive to smooth and rapid running, and in this respect amply compensates for any lack of beauty in the natural scenery. There are, however, some quite interesting sections of country on the route.

St. Thomas, about midway of the line, is a city of some eight or nine thousand inhabitants, and of considerable importance as a railroad center. We here cross the Great Western division of the Grand Trunk, and connect with the St. Clair division of the Michigan Central, and the Credit Valley Railway for Toronto. The leading hotels are the Commercial, Queens, Hutchinson, Wilcox and Lisgar.

At Niagara Junction the train divides, and that portion having Buffalo for its objective point, proceeds, by way of Fort Erie and Black Rock, to the Union Depot in Buffalo, while the other portion goes to America’s greatest pleasure resort via the Niagara Falls division of the road.

Should the tourist choose to first visit Buffalo, he may proceed to the Falls by later trains, which run at frequent intervals during the day between the two points.

THE CITY OF BUFFALO

Is of interest to the excursionist as one of the most important commercial centers west of New York City, and the focus of a large number of railroads. It has a magnificent harbor, one of the best on the whole chain of lakes, its water front extending about five miles, half on Lake Erie and half on Niagara River. Its grain elevators, some thirty in all, have a storage capacity of nearly six millions of bushels, and are capable of transferring about half that amount every twenty-four hours. As the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and with its lake shipping and railroad facilities, it has become the largest grain port in America, with the single exception of New York City.

The traveler who may wish to prolong his stay in Buffalo will find a multitude of hotels, of all degrees of excellence.

Niagara Falls.

Of all the pleasure resorts on the American continent, probably none receive annually so many visitors as the famous cataract where the waters of the upper lakes so grandly plunge over the precipice on their way to Lake Ontario. The reasons for this are, doubtless, first, the wonderful attractiveness of the Falls as an object of interest, and, secondly, their ease of access, and the consequent facility with which they may be visited. Situated upon the main thoroughfare between the East and the West, over which such a constant tide of travel is surging throughout the entire year, it requires but little sacrifice of time on the part of many to pay them a visit. But these are merely the casual visitors, in addition to whom thousands annually come from all parts of the land, and from over the ocean, to gaze upon this far-famed cataract.

We design to give in this chapter such facts as shall serve as a complete guide for the tourist in visiting this resort, not only to all the points of interest, but such other information as shall render his visit enjoyable. Before entering into particulars, we present a general description of Niagara, in a comprehensive view, which will assist the reader in understanding the several detailed descriptions which follow.

Niagara River is the outlet of Lake Erie, connecting it with Ontario, the lowest in the great chain of lakes, which unitedly are the largest inland reservoirs in the world. The river is only 33 miles in length, and the total descent in that distance is 334 feet, Lake Ontario being that much lower than Erie, which is 565 feet above sea level. About a mile above the Falls the waters commence to descend with great velocity, constituting what is known as the Rapids, second in interest only to the Falls themselves, and adding to the interest of the latter by giving such an increased velocity to the water in its plunge over the precipice. The total descent in this mile is 52 feet, and the waters come rushing and tumbling along the rocky bed of the stream, which is here considerably narrower than its general channel above.

Just above the Falls are several small islands, connected by a system of bridges with one another and the American shore, and affording a magnificent view of the Rapids. Standing on one of the bridges, or the upper shore of an island, and looking up the stream, the view presented is grand and impressive, as the resistless torrent seems ready to overwhelm all in its course.

These islands, combined with a sharp curve in the course of the stream, widen the channel to about 4,750 feet, one-fourth of which is occupied by Goat Island, the largest of the group, which here extends to the extreme verge of the precipice, and divides the stream and the Falls into two distinct parts.

The American Fall is about 1,100 feet wide, and the remainder, or Canada fall, about double the width, although from its curved or horseshoe shape the line of the brink is considerably longer than the direct breadth.

Our [illustration] presents a fine view of the American Fall from below, looking northward. The waters here make a sheer descent of 164 feet, while the height of the Canadian Fall is from 12 to 14 feet less, owing to the lengthening of the Rapids and the curve of the stream.

The volume of water in the Canada Fall is much greater, however, than that of the American, and the impetus given by the Rapids carries the water over the precipice with great velocity, and it forms a grand curve in the descent, falling clear of the rocky wall into the bed of the river below. The lower strata of this wall being of a loose, shaly character, the action of the spray has hollowed it out, so that between the wall of rock and the descending wall of water, a cavernous space exists, into which the tourist may venture by a rocky and somewhat perilous path from the Canada side. It is needless to add that a water-proof suit adds materially to the comfort of those who thus venture. Similar trips may be made under the American Fall, which will be duly described in detail.

Below the Falls, on the American side, is a stairway and an inclined-plane railway, leading to the water’s edge, and connecting with a ferry which here crosses to the Canada shore by means of small boats, amid the spray and over the turbulent waters, not yet at rest from their mighty plunge.

The banks below the Falls are very high and precipitous, and the channel contracts to less than a thousand feet, varying in the descent to Lake Ontario, from 200 to 400 yards.

The entire river, from its source to its mouth, is an interesting geological study. The changes that have taken place in the formation of its banks, and the topography of the country through which it passes, furnish much food for conjecture, upon which several theories have been constructed, one of which seems to be quite universally adopted, viz., that the Falls have gradually receded from a point below
their present location, some say as far down as the high bluff at Lewiston, seven miles from Lake Ontario.

AMERICAN FALL, FROM BELOW.

This recession is due to the action of the water upon the sections of the rocky bed which have successively formed the verge of the cataract, and which have doubtless varied in character along the course of the river. The action of the spray and the violence of the rebounding waters, combined perhaps with other causes, wore away the softer, shaly substratum, until the harder but thinner upper stratum could no longer support the massive weight and resist the velocity of the waters, and fell into the channel below. This theory is abundantly supported not only by the appearance of the Falls and the channel, but by several occurrences of exactly this character. In 1818, massive fragments fell from the American fall, and in 1828 a like occurrence took place in the Horseshoe Fall, in each instance producing a concussion like an earthquake.

A view of the Falls by Father Hennepin, made in the year 1678, presents the feature of a distinct fall on the Canada side, somewhat like that on the American side, or nearly at right angles with the main fall. This was occasioned by a great rock, which divided the current and turned a portion of it in that direction, and which has evidently since fallen. (See [engraving] on [page 36].)

How long a time would be required for the Falls to recede to Lake Erie, is of course conjectural, as no data of sufficient reliability can be established from which to make a calculation. Indeed, it is believed by some geologists that higher up the river the formation of the bed is of such a character as to successfully resist the further encroachments of the water in that direction, the hard formation being of greater depth and firmness.

But to the present generation Niagara Falls will remain an object of great interest, and will doubtless continue to receive, as in the past, the visits of great multitudes of tourists, either on account of their real attractiveness, or because it is the fashion.

With this general view of the Falls, the reader will be prepared for the details, which, taken together, make up the comprehensive whole, and which constitute a visit to Niagara an event replete with lasting memories.

It detracts not a little from the enjoyment of the spectator to find that at this resort the oriental demand for “backsheesh” prevails in the modified form of tolls, fees, etc., and that what is here enjoyed in the line of sight-seeing must be paid for. Yet this is not to be wondered at when we consider that the parties who own the vantage ground must thus reap from it a sustaining harvest. What is legitimately demanded of the visitor in the way of tolls and admission fees may be considered as a sine qua non, and should not in the least mar his pleasure, as he receives in such cases a full equivalent for his expenditure.

“TRICKS THAT ARE [NOT ALWAYS] VAIN.”

There is one thing, however, which no tourist is prepared to meet with composure, and which he will need to guard against here, namely, extortion, or an unexpected or unreasonable demand for money in payment for services not contracted for nor supposed to be in the market. Much has been said and written about the extortions of Niagara hackmen, until their practices have become a byword. In justice to some of these individuals it should be said that there are among them honorable men, who will do by you just as they agree, and will make no effort to defraud. It is always safe, however, to make an agreement with your driver as to the service he is to render you, and just what you are to pay him in return. When the terms of your contract are met, accept no further service without understanding its cost.

HORSESHOE FALLS AND RAPIDS.

The need of this precaution will be apparent from the following facts. The lawful rate for carrying a passenger from one point to another in the villages about the Falls is fifty cents, or one dollar from village to village; yet a driver will frequently offer to carry a passenger for ten cents. Once in the carriage, however, he is urged to see this and that point of interest, and with the memory of the ten-cent offer as a basis for prospective expenses, he often yields to the importunities of the hackman, until he finds to his dismay that he has run up a bill, by the legal tariff, of from three to five dollars. While the man is charging him only what the law allows him to collect, the victim is chagrined at the method by which it is extorted from him, and it rankles as an unpleasant memory in his otherwise pleasurable recollections of his visit.

We have been thus explicit in treating upon a subject to which no Niagara guide book we have ever seen gives more than a passing allusion, in order that the tourist may know what to expect, and how to meet it in the very outset. If you choose to accept of a hackman’s “ten-cent” offer, be sure that you take no more than is “nominated in the bond,” lest with the “pound of flesh” there come a drop of blood more costly than all the rest.

THE FIRST VIEW OF THE FALLS.

The approach to Niagara, by the line of the Michigan Central, is by a route nearly parallel with the river, from above on the Canada shore, and is beyond question, the best view to be had from any railroad train conveying its passengers near the place. As the train draws near the mighty cataract, the foaming rapids above the Falls burst upon the view, as if to prepare the mind for the exhibition of resistless power to be revealed in the grand plunge of waters into the abyss below.

In a few moments the train comes to a halt in full view of the Falls, with the Horseshoe or Canada Fall in the foreground, and Goat Island and the American Fall directly across the river, with the deep gorge between through which the river flows, spanned by the new suspension bridge. The picture thus presented is one of surpassing beauty. While a nearer view will impress the mind more completely with the sublime majesty of the cataract, the comprehensive grouping here presented will linger in the mind of a true lover of the beautiful, prominent among the “pictures that hang on memory’s wall.”

The through passengers, who make no tarry at the Falls, remain in the cars until the train arrives at Suspension Bridge, two miles below, this arrangement continuing for the present season, until the completion of the new bridge now in process of erection by the Michigan Central Company. When this structure is completed, the trains will cross the river in full view of the Falls. This, in addition to the view now obtained from the train, will prove a strong attraction to through travelers, inducing them to come by this route.

NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO.

This village, formerly known as Clifton, extends along the Canada shore of Niagara River, from near the Falls to the railroad suspension bridge. The tourist who wishes to inspect the cataract first from the Canada side, leaves the train at Niagara Falls station; and should he choose to find a temporary abiding place on the Canada side, he will find several well-kept hotels, at prices varying according to accommodations desired. The largest and most commodious of these is the Clifton House, which has been open to the public for more than forty years, and has established a reputation as in all respects a first-class house.

AMERICAN FALL, AS SEEN FROM CANADA SIDE.

The Prospect House is almost on the very verge of the Falls, being located at Table Rock, and commands a fine view. The house has an excellent reputation, its patrons being among the most celebrated of the visitors, both from America and abroad.

The Brunswick, located a little farther down the bank than the house just mentioned,—just far enough, the proprietor claims, to be free from the annoyance of mist and spray, but sufficiently near to give a beautiful prospect from its windows and balconies,—furnishes a pleasant stopping place, less pretentious than some of its larger rivals, but with all its appointments complete, and well calculated to promote the comfort of its patrons. It can take good care of large or small parties, and is indeed a desirable stopping place for those who wish to tarry for a single day, or for a longer period, the terms being moderate and the fare excellent.

Other houses there are on this side, of which the limits of this work forbid even a mention. Indeed, the provisions for the care of tourists indicate that for a considerable portion of the year at least, that constitutes by far the largest business of the dwellers in the vicinity.

TABLE ROCK.

The Canada shore can claim one point over all other localities in the vicinity of the Falls, in being the only place where a good view of the cataract can be had without the payment of toll or admittance fees. The effort now being made to create a public park on the New York shore, and thus secure similar privileges in the “land of the free,” is attracting much attention from tourists. Its results are as yet conjectural, but so much has the value of the property become enhanced by the very practices which this plan proposes to abolish, it seems now like a great undertaking to accomplish what a few years ago would have been much more easily brought about.

There are opportunities, however, to pay fees on the Canada side, and to receive an equivalent in return. A staircase leading to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, permits a fine view from below, and in addition a visit to the cavernous recess under Table Rock and Horseshoe Fall. For the latter excursion, water-proof suits and the services of a guide are necessary, and the experience is one long to be remembered.

TABLE ROCK.

Table Rock itself is an object of much curiosity. It is an overhanging cliff, extending along the bank to the very junction with the Horseshoe Fall. Its shape and dimensions have been several times changed within the memory and observation of the present generation, and “the oldest inhabitants” remember it as projecting far beyond its present limits. In July, 1818, a mass some thirty or forty feet wide, and about one hundred and sixty feet in length, fell into the bed of the river. In December, 1828, three sections, comprising a very large portion of the overhanging cliff, and extending to the verge of the Horseshoe Fall, broke off and fell with a terrible crash. In the summer of 1829, another large mass separated and fell, and in June, 1850, still another, the latter about 60 feet wide by 200 long. The precipice still hangs far out over the perpendicular, and with these losses in view, the reader can readily imagine its appearance before the action of the elements had robbed it of so much that made it celebrated.

Several other objects of interest are to be seen on the Canada side, which will be mentioned further on in these pages, and we will now proceed to a description of the principal objects of interest immediately connected with the Falls. In crossing the river to the American shore, the visitor has a choice of two methods. He may descend the bank and cross by the ferry, or may go over the New Suspension Bridge. If intending to return, he will do well to go over by the bridge and re-cross by the ferry.

THE NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE.

This structure, although opened to the public in 1869, is still called the new bridge, to distinguish it from its elder brother, two miles below. Previous to the construction of the New York and Brooklyn bridge, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world, its roadway being 1,300 feet in length, and its cables 1,800 feet long. It is 190 feet above the river, being suspended from two towers, each 100 feet in height. Access may be had to the interior of the towers, and very fine views are obtained from their summits.

From the bridge itself a magnificent view of the Falls may be had, the finest, in fact, to be secured from any one point, the entire line of the cataract being embraced in a single glance, and in closer proximity than is possible elsewhere, except from below. The view down the river is also a fine one, comprising the deep gorge through which the stream flows, with its precipitous banks on either hand, and the Railroad Suspension Bridge in the distance.

The strength of the new bridge is estimated by the engineers as thirteen times greater than sufficient to bear any weight that can possibly be placed upon it. The year of its completion it was subjected to the severest gale it has ever had to withstand, and safely and successfully “weathered the blast.” All fears, therefore, as to its security in ordinary weather, are entirely groundless.

VIEW OF THE FALLS FROM THE FERRY.

Reaching the American shore by this method of crossing, the first point of interest is

PROSPECT PARK.

Depositing the fee of 25 cents at the toll-gate, we are soon within the privileged domain. The grounds are what were formerly known as the “Ferry Grove” and “Point View,” and previous to their improvement were free to the public. The Company who purchased them, however, have provided an almost endless variety of artificial adjuncts to render the place attractive, and the small fee exacted for admission is not, therefore, an unreasonable one.

At the verge of the American Fall, they have constructed a solid wall at what is now called “Prospect Point,” extending it all along the brink of the precipice, thus rendering secure from accident the place where the finest view of the Fall can be obtained. Looking up the stream, the foaming rapids, white-crested and tumultuous, greet the vision in a continuous stretch, until water and sky seem to blend. In the immediate foreground is the American Fall, its waters almost in reach of the outstretched hand. Directly across the stream are Luna and Goat Islands, while sweeping away to the right in a grand curve, is the Horseshoe Fall. The American Fall is year by year assuming the horseshoe form, by the wearing away of the cliff in the center, the indentation in the front line of the Fall being quite prominently visible from Prospect Point, although less noticeable from a front view.

The visitor who may be disposed to carry away a souvenir of this locality will find a skillful photographer in readiness to make pictures, stereoscopic or otherwise, of from one to twenty persons, with both the American and the Horseshoe Fall as a background.

Near the Point is located a bazaar for the sale of curiosities, in itself a museum well worthy of a visit, whether to purchase be the intention, or only to inspect the articles exposed for sale.

The Ferry House is near the center of the Park, and is the upper terminal station of the

INCLINED PLANE RAILWAY.

A tunnel has been cut from the cliff to the margin of the river, at an angle of about thirty degrees, and within it is built the railway, by the side of which is a flight of stairs, numbering 290 steps. The cars are raised and lowered by machinery, operated by a turbine wheel, and are so arranged that one ascends while the other descends. This railway has been in successful operation, without a casualty, for nearly forty years. The timid, however, to whom the descent appears perilous, have the choice of the stairway for reaching the river, and many prefer to trust their own limbs in the climb, but are generally glad to avail themselves of the car in returning. At the foot of the stairs, a commodious building has been erected, from which a view of the Falls from below may be had through windows which protect the visitor from the spray. A nearer view may be obtained by donning a water-proof suit, for which facilities are provided in the dressing-rooms, and, with a trusty guide, taking a promenade upon “Hurricane Bridge,” at the very foot of the American Fall, completing the trip by going behind the cataract itself, which may be done in safety, and constitutes a novel experience. The cavernous recess behind the curtain of falling water extends nearly to the center of the Fall, and is filled with the dashing spray which perpetually rises from the cauldron of waters. The roar of the cataract echoes and re-echoes within this chamber, the effect being heightened by the compression of the air; and the combined effect upon the senses as one thus stands as it were within the very grasp of Nature’s most powerful forces, serves to show the contrast between puny man and his omnipotent Creator.

Between the foot of the Inclined Plane and the Canada shore, a line of ferry boats has been established, affording a safe and pleasant method of transit between those points, and a view of the Falls from the river level. The best time for this trip is early in the morning or an hour or two before sunset, and the impressions made upon the mind in connection with it, will be among the most lasting of all the recollections of Niagara.

Returning to the Park by the stairway or the car, as the traveler may elect, we continue our examination of the objects of interest to be found within its limits. Its shady groves and pleasant walks, remnants of the natural forest improved by the hand of art, furnish delightful resting places or promenades; and its Art Gallery, Concert Hall, Pavilion, and other provisions for entertainment, serve to engage the attention of the visitor, and make pleasant the hours that pass while within the Park.

ELECTRIC ILLUMINATION.

One of the most enjoyable features of the visit to Prospect Park is that provided for the hours of evening. The illumination of the Falls and fountains by the electric light is a pleasing spectacle, and well worthy of a tarry to see. The electricity for the purpose is developed by one of the largest sized dynamo machines, kept in operation by a powerful turbine wheel, located in the Ferry building, the water-power supplied by a canal. The brilliant light thus produced is concentrated upon the Falls and Rapids, both in clear white and with prismatic effects, rendering them even more beautiful by night than in the full light of day.

An arrangement of fountains in which the waters are made to assume a variety of shapes, with revolving wheels and jets of spray, the whole illuminated with shifting lights of all colors, constitutes an exhibition amply rewarding a long journey to behold. The observer is fascinated by the ever-changing colors and gorgeous effects, more beautiful than any pyrotechnic display, which it very much resembles, only with intensified brilliancy of coloring, and more enduring in form.

GOAT ISLAND.

Passing out at the gate of Prospect Park, a short walk brings us to the toll-house of Goat Island, at the end of the bridge leading across to the group of islands which divide the cataract into its two distinctive parts. The largest of these bears the above name, which was given to it from a trivial circumstance, illustrating how easily a nickname or title becomes fastened “to stay” with a few repetitions, even from an unauthorized source. More than a century ago, a Mr. John Stedman placed some goats on the upper end of the Island, and through neglect they were suffered to remain uncared for during the winter, and died from exposure. Hence the name, which adheres to it, in preference to its authorized name of “Iris Island.”

The group comprises, in all, some seventeen islands, large and small, covering about sixty acres. The property belongs to the estate of the late Judge Porter, to whom it was ceded by the State of New York in 1818. Its possession at that time was regarded as of little consequence, and the attempt to put a bridge across was deemed foolhardiness; but it is said that an offer of a million and a half dollars has recently been refused for the estate.

GOAT-ISLAND BRIDGE.

The first bridge was a frail structure, and was soon carried away. It was replaced by a stronger one, which stood from 1818 to 1856, when it was removed, and the present elegant structure substituted. The foundations are heavy oaken cribs, filled with stone and plated with iron. The bridge itself is of iron, in four arches, each of ninety feet span, making a total length of three hundred and sixty feet. Its width is twenty-seven feet, comprising a double carriageway, with footway on either side. The bridge is a favorite place from which to view the Rapids, as the waters near the precipice below.

The first island of the group is Bath Island, which is utilized as the site of manufacturing enterprise, a large paper-mill occupying a position to command some portion of the splendid water-power so idly expending itself for naught. Crossing by a bridge of a single span to Goat Island, we find ourselves in a spot where Nature has been comparatively undisturbed. The forest remains almost in its primeval simplicity, which fact renders this a most charming and popular resort. Indeed, a visit to Niagara would be sadly incomplete were Goat Island and its attractions to be omitted.

Ascending a slight rise from the bridge, the road leads into a shady forest, and branches in three directions. The best method of visiting the points of interest is to first turn to the right, and follow the road or path to the foot of the Island, emerging from the forest near the stairway and bridge leading to

LUNA ISLAND.

This small but pleasant little islet divides the American Fall into two sections, the stream over which we cross from Goat Island constituting what is known as the Center Fall, beneath which is the Cave of the Winds. The island lies low, and the visitor may touch the water with the hand. The verge was formerly unguarded, but an iron railing now prevents a repetition of the melancholy accident that occurred here on the 21st of June, 1849, when the family of Mr. Deforest, of Buffalo, in company with a friend, Mr. Charles Addington, were visiting the scene. The latter, playfully catching up Annette, the little daughter of Mr. Deforest, said, “I am going to throw you in.” With a sudden impulse, the child sprang from his arms into the water. Horrified at the result of his pleasantry, Mr. Addington sprang after her, and both were immediately carried over the Falls. The mangled remains of the child were recovered the same day, in the Cave of the Winds, and the body of the unfortunate young man a few days later.

Returning to Goat Island, a short walk brings us to the building used as the dressing-room in which to prepare for a visit to the

“CAVE OF THE WINDS.”

This trip is made by ladies as well as gentlemen, water-proof suits being provided for any who wish to explore the famous cavern, and experienced guides are in readiness to accompany the visitor. The descent to the foot of the cliff is here made without the aid of machinery, by means of a spiral staircase known as

“BIDDLE’S STAIRS.”

This structure takes its name from the Hon. Nicholas Biddle, the well-known president of the United States Bank, at whose expense the enterprise of building it was carried out in 1829. The bank at this place is 185 feet high. Part of this descent is accomplished by an open stairway, of ordinary inclination, and the remainder by the perpendicular shaft or tower, which is 80 feet high, the whole comprising 147 steps.

From the foot of the tower, a pathway to the right, under the shadow of the overhanging cliff, leads to the Center Fall, which constitutes the aqueous curtain of “Æolus’ Cavern.” A secure stairway leads to the entrance of the Cave, and the visitor passes under the Fall, into the stormy recess made in the solid rock. The Cavern derives its name from the peculiar atmospheric effects produced by the action of the falling water, the compression of the air establishing a perpetual tempest, like that in which Æolus, the god of the wind, is said to dwell.

The Cave is 100 feet high by 100 deep and 160 long, and its existence is due to the action of the waters upon the shale, leaving the more solid limestone rock overhanging.

UNDER THE CATARACT.

As one of the many novel experiences to be met in a visit to Niagara, the trip through this Cave will leave a lasting impression upon the memory. The sensations which wind and storm will always produce are here intensified by the novelty of the surroundings, and the realization of the fact that the forces of Nature are perpetually accomplishing here what they occasionally produce in the outer world. Add to this the spice of personal risk, really less than it seems to be, and the recollections of the occasion will be vivid and enduring.

From the foot of the stairway, another path leads to the river in front, and still another toward the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall. The latter is but little used, and is not kept in good condition. From a scaffolding 100 feet high, erected near the stairway in 1829, Sam Patch made his famous leap into the river, successfully accomplishing a feat, the repetition of which at Genessee Falls, shortly after, cost him his life.

Returning to the bank above, and continuing the walk along the brink, the next interesting point of observation is

TERRAPIN BRIDGE AND ROCK.

A stairway leads down to the Bridge, which crosses over to the Rock where for forty years the well-known Terrapin Tower constituted a landmark to be seen from all directions, standing as it did at the very verge of the Falls. The rock itself furnishes a favorable outlook, affording a near view of the Horseshoe Fall. The bridge is liable to be slippery from the action of the spray, and care should be exercised to avoid accident. In the winter of 1852, a gentleman while in the act of crossing fell into the stream, and was carried to the very verge of the Fall. By a remarkably fortunate circumstance, he lodged between two rocks, when he was discovered by some of the citizens, who rescued him by life lines, which he succeeded in fastening around his body. He was carried to a hotel, and remained speechless for several hours, so great was the shock to his nervous system.

THE CANADIAN OR HORSESHOE FALL,

Which is here seen to the best advantage, is about 144 rods wide, and 158 feet high. The depth of the water in the center is estimated at 20 feet. An experiment to demonstrate the depth was made in 1827. An unseaworthy vessel, drawing 18 feet of water, increased by leakage to more than 20 feet, was sent over the Falls, and cleared the ledge without touching.

The name “Horseshoe” is hardly true to the present shape, which is now more nearly rectangular. The horseshoe curve has been marred by the falling of portions of the cliff at various times, until its original symmetry has nearly departed. The precipice near the Terrapin Tower has suffered loss from this cause, until it was regarded as unsafe to continue the use of the Tower, and it was removed in 1873.

TERRAPIN TOWER.—REMOVED IN 1873.

Along the south shore of the island, the walk or drive toward the east keeps in view the rapids, and leads us next to the group known as the

THREE SISTER ISLANDS.

These are connected with Goat Island and with one another by three handsome bridges, affording a magnificent view of the Rapids, the best, in fact, to be had from any point of observation. The scene presented from the outer island, as you gaze up the river, upon the vast expanse of foaming, turbulent water, seemingly threatening to overwhelm you and the ground on which you stand, and yet dividing as it passes you, or abating its fury as it reaches the shore at your feet, is one to fill the soul with admiration and awe, as, perhaps, no other view can do. The outlook from the bridges also awakens peculiar emotions. Standing only a few feet above the rapidly coursing torrent as it passes beneath you, the thought comes to the mind that here at least, “there is but a step betwixt time and eternity.” The fascination increases as the gaze is prolonged, and the mind which cannot be impressed with the sublimity of the scene, must be, like the soul devoid of music, “fit for treason, stratagem, and spoils.”

At the head of Goat Island, a little farther up the river, the view is quite expansive, commanding both banks of the stream, and the islands in the channel. Beginning at the right, the site of Fort Schlosser is seen about a mile away, marked by a small white building and a very large chimney. The name is associated with border history, the fort having been built by the French, afterward ceded to the English, and occupied as a military station by Captain Schlosser, from whom its later name was derived, the French having given it the title of Little Fort.

NAVY ISLAND,

Lying in the channel which sweeps around Grand Island on the Canada side, has an area of over three hundred acres, and is associated with Fort Schlosser in the annals of border history, having been made the rendezvous of the “Patriots” in the “Rebellion” of 1837, under the leadership of McKenzie, who, with about twenty-five or thirty followers, became disaffected with the Canadian authorities, and planted their standard here as a rallying-point. The American steamer Caroline, a small boat supposed to be in the service of the “Rebels,” was chartered to run between the islands and the American shore. Friday, Dec. 29, 1837, she entered upon her work of “ferriage,” and after a profitable day’s work was moved to the wharf at Schlosser’s Landing. The same night, a detachment of British soldiers, under command of Capt. Drew, seized her, set her on fire, and the little steamer went down the stream in flames, and plunged over the Canadian Fall. The crew, and some of the “patriots” who were on board, escaped to the shore, with the exception of one man, Durfee, who was killed by a pistol shot in attempting to escape.

GRAND ISLAND,

The largest in the River Niagara, is twelve miles in length, its breadth varying from two to seven miles. Its soil, unlike that of the islands nearer the cataract, is very fertile, and much of it is under cultivation. Its historic annals are less interesting than those just mentioned, although one enterprise has a monumental reminder, still in a good state of preservation. A gentleman who in the current vernacular of to-day would doubtless be entitled a “crank,” conceived the project of making this island a place of refuge for the scattered tribes of Israel. In 1825 he laid the corner-stone of the “City of Ararat,” and erected a monument with imposing ceremonies. The latter still serves to remind the visitor that “cranks” are not original with the present generation.

At the foot of Grand Island is a smaller one, of about three hundred acres, called Buckhorn Island. The channel between them is called “Burnt Ship Bay,” from the destruction of two armed supply vessels by the French garrison at Schlosser, near the close of the French war of 1759, to prevent their acquisition by the English. They were brought to this bay, and set on fire, and the circumstance is thus commemorated by the name of the bay.

Corner’s Island, Gill Creek Island and Grass Island, all of them small, lie near the American shore, and are important, commercially or historically.

FATHER HENNEPIN’S SKETCH OF THE FALLS.

The first white man who saw the Falls, of whom we have any account, was Father Hennepin, the noted explorer. We present above a [fac-simile] of the sketch made by him, representing the Falls as they were 200 years ago. We also give his extravagant description, preserving the orthography and the quaint style in which it was written:—

“Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie, there is a vast and prodigious Cadence of Water which falls down after a surprizing and astonishing manner, insomuch that the Universe does not afford its Parallel. ’Tis true, Italy and Suedeland boast of some such Things; but we may well say they are but sorry Patterns, when compar’d to this of which we now speak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice, we meet with the River Niagara, which is not above a quarter of a League broad, but is wonderfully deep in some places. It is so rapid above this Descent, that it violently hurries down the wild Beasts while endeavoring to pass it to feed on the other side, they not being able to withstand the force of its Current, which inevitably casts them headlong above Six hundred foot high.

“This wonderful Downfal is compounded of two great Cross-streams of Water, and two Falls, with an Isle sloping along the middle of it. The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam and boyl after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous Noise, more terrible than that of Thunder; for when the Wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may be heard more than Fifteen Leagues off.

“The River Niagara having thrown it self down this incredible Precepice, continues its impetuous course for two Leagues together, to the great Rock above-mention’d, with an inexpressible rapidity: But having past that, its impetuosity relents, gliding along more gently for other two Leagues, till it arrive at the Lake Ontario or Frontenac.

“Any Bark or greater Vessel may pass from the Fort to the foot of this huge Rock above-mention’d. This Rock lies to the Westward, and is cut off from the Land by the River Niagara, about two Leagues farther down than the great Fall; for which two Leagues the People are oblig’d to transport their Goods over-land; but the way is very good; and the Trees are but few, chiefly Firrs and Oaks.

“From the great Fall unto this Rock which is to the West of the River, the two Brinks of it are so prodigious high, that it would make one tremble to look steadily upon the Water, rolling along with a rapidity not to be imagin’d. Were it not for this vast Cataract, which interrupts Navigation, they might fail with Barks or greater Vessels, more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, crossing the Lake of Hurons, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake Illinois; which two Lakes we may easily say are little Seas of fresh Water.”

RETROCESSION OF THE FALLS.

The following extracts from an article written by Prof. Tyndall will be of interest in this connection:—

“The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man, the Fall has sensibly receded, prompts the question, How far has this recession gone? At what point did the ledge which thus continually creeps backward begin its retrograde course? To minds disciplined in such researches the answer has been and will be, At the precipitous declivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewiston on the American to Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse barrier the affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonstrably of sufficient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island, and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the same fluviatile shells as are now found in the Niagara River higher up. It would also account for those deposits along the sides of the river, the discovery of which enabled Lyell, Hall, and Ramsay to reduce to demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once flowed through a shallow valley.

“The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to my mind before quitting Niagara, are revealed by a close inspection of the present Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently that the greatest weight of water bends over the very apex of the Horseshoe. In a passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirling of the shattered liquid; here the most powerful eddies recoil against the shale. From this portion of the Fall, indeed, the spray sometimes rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds, becoming gradually more attenuated, and passing finally through the condition of true cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-precipitated higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from the center the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides. The horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvious and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of the river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting along the center a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining the sides as it passes them. Hence the remarkable discrepancy between the widths of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along its course, from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of the Fall was probably that of a horseshoe; for this is merely the expression of the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating power, of the center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in width as the depth, of the center of the ancient river varied, being narrowest where that depth was greatest.

“The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horseshoe Fall comes strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared together. The American branch of the upper river is cut at a right angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the real excavator. It cut the rock, and formed the precipice over which the American Fall tumbles. But since its formation the erosive action of the American Fall has been almost nil, while the Horseshoe has cut its way for five hundred yards across the end of Goat Island, and is now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of the island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute observation of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends; the Horseshoe immediately accommodates itself to the bending, and will follow implicitly the direction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The flexibility of the gorge, if I may use the term, is determined by the flexibility of the river channel above it. Were the Niagara above the Fall sinuous, the gorge would immediately follow its sinuosities. Once suggested, no doubt geographers will be able to point out many examples of this action. The Zambesi is thought to present a great difficulty to the erosion theory, because of the sinuosity of the chasm below the Victoria Falls. But assuming the basalt to be of tolerably uniform texture, had the river been examined before the formation of this sinuous channel, the present zigzag course of the gorge below the Fall could, I am persuaded, have been predicted, while the sounding of the present river would enable us to predict the course to be pursued by the erosion in the future.

“But not only has the Niagara River cut the gorge—it has carried away the chips of its own workshop. The shale being probably crumbled, is easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find the huge boulders already described, and by some means or other these are removed down the river. The ice which tills the gorge in winter, and which grapples with the boulders, has been regarded as the transporting agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts without ceasing on the abutting points of the boulder, thus withdrawing their support, and urging them down the river. Solution also does its portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by the difference of depth between the Niagara River and Lake Ontario, where the river enters it. The depth falls from seventy-two feet to twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter caused by the diminished motion of the river. Near the mouth of the gorge at Queenston, the depth, according to the Admiralty Chart, is 180 feet; well within the gorge, it is 132 feet.”

SUSPENSION BRIDGE.

Two miles below the Falls, the river is spanned by the structure so widely known by the above name. The banks are here very precipitous, and the river deep and rapid, and the erection of piers in the stream being an impossibility, the structure is suspended from cables passing over towers of solid masonry. The following statistics will be of interest to those of our readers who revel in figures:—

The bridge is a “two-story” affair, the upper part being used for the railway, and the lower for carriages and foot passengers.

RAILWAY SUSPENSION BRIDGE, NIAGARA RIVER.

WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS.

The narrowing of the channel in the vicinity of the Suspension Bridge greatly accelerates the current, and the tremendous force with which it rushes through the gorge from this point to the “Whirlpool,” throws the water into violent commotion. When it is considered that the calculated weight of the water that passes over the Falls every hour is 100,000,000 tons, and that this volume of water must find its way through a channel only about 300 feet wide, the terrific force with which it rushes along may be at least partially understood. Although the depth of the stream is here estimated at 250 feet, the force of the current is such as to elevate the water from ten to forty feet above its natural level.

WHIRLPOOL AND RAPIDS.

At the Whirlpool, the river takes a sharp turn almost at a right angle, circling around in the cauldron which it seems to have excavated for itself, and finally making its exit through a narrow gorge, the vast body of water no doubt passing out far below the surface, in a channel of immense depth.

The Whirlpool may be seen to advantage from either the Canadian or the American side. At the latter, the approach is through the grounds of De Veaux College, the fee for admission going to the funds of the institution. On the Canada side, extensive preparations have been made for the accommodation of visitors by the Whirlpool Rapids Park Company.

A river-side walk has been constructed, partially by excavation from the side of the cliff, and a delightful park on the bank of the river, with plenty of trees and shrubbery, renders a promenade on this shore very attractive. An inclined railway, to facilitate the journey between the upper and lower levels, has been constructed, and equipped with cars, operating in a novel and ingenious manner. The cars have tanks below the seats; these tanks are filled with water from a spring at the back of the entrance building, by means of a pipe leading into the tank. 50 lbs. weight of water is sufficient to overcome the balance of the cars, and to carry the loaded car to the foot of the railway, the light one being simultaneously drawn to the top by the same power. Formerly these cars were operated by steam-power, but the present is by far the safest and most economical plan, there being no machinery to get out of order, no danger of damage from bursting of boiler, etc., the entire apparatus necessary being the check or governor, by which the person in charge can regulate or stop the speed of the car with perfect ease. These cars take 12 passengers each; the tanks are capable of containing 2,800 lbs. of water. As they reach the foot of the incline, a bolt or pin removes the fastening to the discharge pipe and discharges the water, thus leaving the car in readiness for its next ascent, which is made in about one and a half minutes. The total length of the railroad is 285 feet.

At the water’s edge, a photographic studio is located, thus giving to all an opportunity of being portrayed with the Whirlpool Rapids in the backgrounds.

Returning again to the Falls, we find on the Canada side several points of interest, not yet considered in these pages. At Table Rock an opportunity is afforded of visiting the Museum, a collection of natural curiosities, works of art, etc., well worthy of a visit. A zoological garden is kept in connection, and an observatory affords a good outlook from a lofty stand-point.

THE BURNING SPRING.

About a mile above the Falls, reached by a pleasant drive or walk, across Cedar Island, in view of the Rapids, is the natural curiosity known as the Burning Spring, the waters of which are highly charged with sulphuretted hydrogen, which burns with a pale blue flame when ignited. This is supposed to have its origin in a coal formation, believed by some to be extensive, and worthy of mining. The proprietor, however, has not sufficient faith in the feasibility of the scheme to undertake it. Clark Hill Islands, a group of five, which are crossed in the approach to the burning spring, are in the midst of the rapids, and a fine carriage drive extends along their outer shores, affording a good view of the current, which is here very rapid. These islands are connected with the main land by two suspension bridges, which have been named “Castor” and “Pollux.”

On Cedar Island, near the Horseshoe Falls, a Pagoda has been erected, over 80 feet in height, from which a magnificent view can be had. It is a noticeable landmark from all points in the vicinity of the Falls.

LUNDY’S LANE BATTLE FIELD.

As a spot, of no little historical interest, the scene of the decisive battle between the English and American forces, July 25, 1814, receives many visitors, of all nationalities. The ground is about a mile and a half due west from the Falls, near the village of Drummondville, named in honor of Gen. Drummond, who commanded the British forces in the engagement. Two towers have been erected to mark the spot, and from their summits a good view is had of the surrounding country. It was the writer’s good fortune, on the occasion of his first visit to the scene, some years ago, to listen to a description of the battle from the lips of a surviving participant, who wore the British uniform on the occasion, but who gave the American forces great credit for gallantry in the fight. The total loss, in killed and wounded, was about eighteen hundred men.

DEVIL’S HOLE.

About half a mile below the Whirlpool, on the American side, a gloomy cavern in the bank has received the above title. It is about one hundred feet in depth, and from its forbidding aspect might well be regarded as the property of his Satanic majesty. Tradition makes this locality the scene of the massacre of the English supply train and escort in 1763, by the Seneca Indians, instigated by the French traders. The train was on its way from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser, and only three of its number escaped alive, while of the escort only eight returned to Fort Niagara.

NIAGARA RIVER BELOW THE WHIRLPOOL.

Much that would be of interest to the reader might be written concerning the Falls and the surroundings, but we have already devoted a large amount of space to the subject, and must close with a few necessary particulars. For the convenience of those who may need the facts, we tabulate the rates of toll, carriage hire, etc., the latter being the rate fixed by law as permissible. It may be well to add, however, that most of the drivers are willing to make a special rate, considerably lower than those given, and, as previously remarked, this should be expressly agreed upon before starting out, including an understanding as to the payment of the tolls and gate fees.

RATES OF TOLL

RATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW,
FOR CARRIAGE HIRE WHERE NO EXPRESS CONTRACT IS MADE THEREFOR.

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to another in the village, 50 cents.

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 25 cents.

For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge, 1 dollar.

Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 50 cents.

Each additional piece of baggage other than ordinary baggage, 12 cents.

Children under 3 years of age, free.

Over 3 years and under 14 years, half price.

Ordinary baggage is defined to be 1 trunk and 1 bag, hat or band-box, or other small parcel.

For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from any point in this village to any point within 5 miles of the limits of the village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse, the fare therefor shall be at the rate of 1 dollar for each hour occupied.

Hotels.—Although a little out of its natural connection, this subject seems to demand at least a paragraph. The constant influx of visitors, especially during the summer months has created a demand for hotel accommodations at Niagara, which has been met in the erection of such houses as the Cataract, International, Spencer, Niagara, Kaltenbach, Goat Island, and a multitude of others, of various grades of excellence, both at the Falls and Suspension Bridge.

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER.

The route to the sea via the St. Lawrence River having become a great favorite with summer tourists, we give in this connection a description of some of its principal attractions. The majestic river, whose channel is the outlet for all the waters of the great chain of inland seas, runs in a general northeasterly direction, from Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, through a country full of objects of interest to the traveler and sight-seer, and by its navigability becomes the medium by which they may be reached.

Leaving Niagara Falls in the evening, sleeping cars are run, via New York Central, Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, and Utica & Black River Railroads, to Clayton, arriving next morning in time to connect with the palace day steamers of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company. Should the tourist prefer to make the trip by daylight, he will find the scenery pleasant and attractive. He will thus reach Clayton in the evening, and remain until morning, proceeding as above.

The pleasures of a trip down the St. Lawrence, among the celebrated Thousand Islands, through the foaming rapids, and past the charming villages which lie along the shore, have been the theme of extravagant praise from many a summer tourist, and the constantly increasing popularity of this route is ample evidence that they do not soon grow old. You may usually find among the passengers many who have made the trip several seasons in succession, and the summer resorts of the St. Lawrence are visited by the same tourists year after year, so many and varied are the charms presented.

STEAMER ROTHESAY, “AMERICAN LINE.”

LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.

Clayton, the steamboat landing of the American Line, is upon the shore of the river where it broadens out among the group of islands of nearly double the number indicated by the name. The trip therefore
commences in the midst of beautiful scenery, to continue in a succession of delights and surprises, until its close at the wharf in Montreal. One and a half miles from Clayton is Round Island Park, occupying the island from which it takes its name. A lovelier spot is not to be found. An elegant hotel, numerous cottages, pleasant groves, splendid drives, and a beautiful water-front, are among the features that contribute to its attractiveness, and give promise of making it the resort par excellence among the island gems of this beautiful river. The association controlling the Park, while supposed to be denominational, is by no means sectarian, and the largest freedom is allowed the occupants, untrammeled by the claims or caprices of fashion, such as sometimes destroy all liberty at fashionable resorts.

THE LUXURY OF CAMP-LIFE

Is here enjoyed to its fullest extent. The beautiful groves along the shores of the island, reached by boat or the inland paths and drives, afford delightful camping-places, while the ready communication with the “haunts of civilization” places the conveniences, and even luxuries for those who desire them, within easy reach. Round Island is about a mile in length, and eight hundred to twelve hundred feet wide. Its shape is not correctly indicated by its name, it being more nearly oval than round.

ROUND ISLAND HOUSE.

In summing up the attractions of the island, we can do no better than to employ the language of one of its summer residents, who writes as follows:—

What Round Island has NOT: Marshes, mosquitoes, malaria, drinking saloons, accumulated refuse, impure air, impure water.

What Round Island has: The purest and most invigorating air, the clearest and most delicious water, the pleasantest drives, inviting walks, beautiful views, unparalleled scenery, facilities for amusement, accommodations for rest, cleanliness, healthfulness, between thirty and forty cottages, an elegant hotel, fifty-five acres of lawn, a two-mile driving track, bathing houses, and every convenience to make cottage or hotel life charming.

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK.

More widely known, perhaps, than any of the other St. Lawrence resorts, is the great camp-meeting park of the Methodist denomination bearing the above title. It is located at the upper end of Wells Island, and has rapidly grown to large proportions, combining, as it does, the religious, social and pleasure-seeking elements, often united in the same individuals. It has a large village of permanent cottages, which is greatly increased in the summer by the “cotton houses” of those who come for a brief stay, either in attendance upon the religious services or for a short respite from business in camp life. It has a post-office, public buildings, stores, and the conveniences of town life, together with boat houses, landings, dock room, etc., and being in the main channel of the river, it is readily accessible to visitors, as the boats make it one of their important landings.

WESTMINSTER PARK.

The lower portion of Wells Island is also under the control of a religious association, being owned by a regularly chartered society called the Westminster Park Association. With the usual conservatism of people of the “orthodox” faith, there is nothing of the camp-meeting order here, although services are held in Bethune chapel every Sunday during the season. The Park comprises about five hundred acres, occupying an irregular neck of upland, rising in some places to a commanding height, overlooking the scene for miles in extent. Tasteful cottages occupy the building lots into which a large portion of the Park has been divided. An elegant hotel, called the Westminster, under excellent management, is kept in first-class style, at from two to three dollars per day. Directly opposite from this park, on the New York shore, is

ALEXANDRIA BAY,

Sometimes called the “Saratoga of the St. Lawrence.” As a summer resort, it is fairly entitled to the name, being one of the most popular watering places in America. Its summer hotels are among the most commodious and attractive to be found anywhere, while private cottages and villas have sprung up on every available site, both on the shore, and on all the islands near. The facilities for fishing and boating, combined with the pure and invigorating atmosphere, and the beautiful scenery, attract to the place a tide of summer visitors, ever increasing in volume with each succeeding year. Alexandria Bay is only twelve miles from Clayton, and the approach, by boat, is charming, as the pretty cottages come in view all along the shore, succeeded by the imposing hotel fronts as the harbor is neared. Among the handsome villas, that of the late Dr. J. G. Holland. “Bonnie Castle,” is a conspicuous object, occupying a promontory which projects just below the landing.

THE THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE,

A [view] of which we herewith present, is one of the finest hotels, both in point of its general arrangements and the natural advantages afforded by its location, to be found at any pleasure resort on the river. It is built on the solid rock, near the steamboat landing, and its windows command an extensive prospect, both up and down the river and across the Bay to Westminster Park. The view is still further expanded by ascending the lofty tower which adorns the center of the structure, rising 160 feet above the foundation, and surmounted with a balcony, affording an outlook of surpassing loveliness and grandeur. The hotel is the largest on the river, and will accommodate 700 guests.