Transcriber's Note:

There are variations in the spelling of local words, in the use of hyphens, and in the placement of quotation marks. These have been retained.

Apparent typographical errors have been corrected.

W. J. Elmslie

SEEDTIME IN KASHMIR:

A MEMOIR
OF
WILLIAM JACKSON ELMSLIE,
M.A., M.D., F.R.C.S.E., ETC,
LATE MEDICAL MISSIONARY, C. M. S., KASHMIR,

BY
HIS WIDOW;
AND
HIS FRIEND, W. BURNS THOMSON,
MEDICAL MISSIONARY.

LONDON:
JAMES NISBET & CO., 21 BERNERS STREET.
1875.

PREFACE.

It would have gratified me had this memoir of Dr. Elmslie been placed, at an earlier date, in the hands of his friends; but circumstances, that need not be recorded here, caused delay.

An earnest desire was expressed that it should be published, at the latest, by Christmas; and, in meeting this wish, I have found it impossible to afford Mrs. Elmslie, who is in India, an opportunity of revising the work,–to the value of which she has contributed largely,–prior to its publication; and so I regard myself as responsible for the selection and setting of the matter it contains.

I owe thanks to those who have sent me reminiscences of Dr. Elmslie, or who have accommodated me with the use of letters which they received from him.

I trust this brief memoir of a manly, earnest student; a dutiful son; a devoted medical missionary; and a true, steadfast friend, may be blessed to do good, in answer to the much prayer that has accompanied its preparation.

W. BURNS THOMSON.

Medical Mission-House, 1 Ramsay Gardens,

Edinburgh, December 1874.

CONTENTS.

MEMOIR.

CHAPTER I.
EARLY LIFE.

On the 29th June 1832, the subject of this memoir was born in Aberdeen to James and Barbara Elmslie. Their eldest child, a little girl, had been taken from them shortly before his birth, so the mother called William her "son of consolation," and most tenderly did she cherish this first-born son during the early years of his life. The family was in tolerably comfortable circumstances, as the father a boot-closer, was a clever tradesman, and had plenty of work. William's earliest memories were of a home in which his mother's presence was always pre-eminently felt as the source of comfort and love. Mrs. Elmslie was no ordinary woman. She was blessed with a vigorous intellect, a large measure of common sense, much ingenuity and forethought, and a certain combination of qualities that gave her the power to interest, to warm, to comfort, and to command; and all was pervaded by the spirit of an unostentatious Christianity. Her childhood had been spent among the sea-faring people of Cromarty, amidst those scenes now made familiar to the world by Hugh Miller's sketches of his early home. Her father, William Lawrence, as captain of a vessel which sailed to all parts of the world, had an adventurous history; and the details of his experience, fresh in her own memory, were graphically conveyed to her boy; and it was his delight to sit beside her and listen to these wonderful stories. He thus imbibed much useful information; his imagination was stirred; and the spirit of enterprise unconsciously fostered. The quiet life in Aberdeen was varied by occasional visits to his paternal grandfather at Ballater, and deep and fruitful impressions of the beauties of nature were gained amid the grand mountain scenery of his native land. As William was delicate, when a child, he was not much given to the romps of other boys; but preferred staying beside his mother, who was always to him a treasury of comfort and knowledge.

Having, through industry and economy, succeeded in saving a little money, William's father, with the view of improving his fortune, removed with his family to London; but, as might have been foreseen, the change was not a happy one. A stranger in the mighty crowd of busy men, he soon found that money was not more easily won there than in his native country; and after struggling on for a year, without meeting the hoped for tide of prosperity, his health failed, and he became seriously ill. Worn out with constant watching and care Mrs. Elmslie was seized with typhus fever, of so malignant a type, that their one servant fled from the house in terror. The picture of the little household is most touching. The father is still prostrate through weakness; the mother raves in the delirium of fever; and the only attendant is a child eight years of age! His sense of responsibility; his distress at witnessing so much suffering; and his alarm, caused by the mysterious mutterings of his much loved mother, broke in rudely upon the sweet dreams of childhood, and set him face to face with stern realities. But matters grew worse. A physician had occasionally dropped in upon them, and now his aid is indispensable; but where is he to be found? The servant, who might have told, is gone; the mother is unconscious; and the father does not know; and so the brave boy sallies forth to seek him in the crowded streets of London! As he wanders along he scans eagerly the face of every one who seems like the friend he so much needs, but in vain; the busy stream of human beings rushes past unheeding, and he feels utterly desolate and in despair. Unable longer to bear up, he stands still, his young heart bursting under its accumulated sorrows, and through his tears sends up to heaven the cry, "God help me!" That is the burden of his prayer. The lessons of his mother bear fruit in the hour of trial. Right speedily comes the answer. A passer by stops, asks what is wrong, and the child explains. He is directed to a house close at hand, where he finds not a doctor merely, but a friend,–a friend whose unwearied care and kindness are never to be forgotten. Soon after, William too was prostrated by the dreadful fever; but this good physician watched over him and never remitted his generous kindnesses–which were administered in every needful form–till he saw the little family safely away from the great city on their return to Aberdeen. When Dr. Elmslie arrived in London on his return from India in 1870, one of his first visits was to the house of this friend, but he was not there; and he could not discover whether he still lived, or had gone to reap his reward from Him who said, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these, my brethren, ye have done it unto me."

Strange to say, William's father seemed to give himself little thought about the education of his boys, and insisted that William should follow his own humble trade; and so the child was fully set apart to the service of St. Crispin when only nine years of age. It was impossible the slender youth could attempt any heavy kind of work, and so of necessity he stood, in his new calling, on a platform a grade higher than that occupied by the venerable Carey, who boasted that he was only a "cobbler." "He excelled," writes Mr. William Martin, "specially in the finer departments of the work, which required great care and attention; and many a weary hour he spent at it, when other boys were fast asleep, that he might earn sufficient to pay his fees and augment the comforts of the mother whom he loved so well." William soon became so expert that he was able to turn out a greater quantity of first-rate work, in a given time, than almost any competitor. This not only sensibly improved the domestic finance, but won for him a little leisure, which he devoted to his much loved books.

It is good to bear the yoke in one's youth; but it was placed on William so early, and pressed so heavily, that had it not been for the encouragement of his mother, and his own unconquerable energy, he must have remained ignorant of even the rudiments of learning. His mother did all she could to cheer and help him; she often read aloud to him, and got others to read, and in the evenings young friends frequently gave him a share of what they were picking up at school. Thus he struggled on for some six years before he entered the grammar school. Yea, the duties of the trade lay hard upon him all through the time he was at school, and continued even while attending the University; long, indeed, after they ceased to be needful for his own support, for he gained a bursary, and had good private teaching; but as the father's health declined, and his eyesight became weak, the more the work was thrown over on the dutiful son. But his application never flagged. To save time and help himself forward, he used to fix his book in the "clambs" (an instrument employed for holding the leather), and placing them conveniently in front of him, he learned to pick up right quickly a sentence from Zumpt, or a line from Homer, or any other book, and thus he stitched and studied for long weary years; and so successfully, that before he had reached the end of his Art's course, he had gained five prizes in various classes, and a bursary. He used to refer to those days of subjection to his father's will–of hard uncongenial work and repressed desires–as a time of much mental and moral discipline. He learned patience, perseverance, self-control, the value of time, and faithfulness in discharging duty, however irksome. In going through his daily drudgery in obedience to his father, he learned the invaluable lesson that his life must be ruled, not by what is pleasing, but by what is right.

William Elmslie could not recall a time when he was without thoughts, more or less serious, regarding divine things. From his earliest years, his mother earnestly sought to convey to him some of her store of spiritual knowledge, which was her only riches. Many passages of Scripture she repeated to him, till even when a very little boy he knew them as familiar household words. The Westminster Shorter Catechism was rendered precious to him all through life by her simple loving expositions, and her quaint homely illustrations, drawn largely from her own observation and experience. But it was not till he was fourteen years of age that he came savingly to know Jesus. At that time, the instructions of his mother received impressiveness through the faithful dealing of his Sabbath School Teacher, who, in private personal intercourse, pressed upon him the necessity of a new heart. Two passages were made particularly useful at this time, and these were ever after much prized. The first was, "God commendeth his love toward us, in that, while we were yet sinners, Christ died for us" (Rom. v. 8). The second, "Ye know the grace of our Lord Jesus Christ, that, though he was rich, yet for your sakes he became poor, that ye through His poverty might be rich" (2 Cor. viii. 9). Although at this time, William came in contact with a real living Saviour, his faith was very feeble; but, as it was faith unfeigned, it grew. Religion became more satisfying to him than it had ever been. He got pretty clear glimpses occasionally of his pardon and acceptance in Immanuel; these multiplied and brightened till the settled conviction of his life became–"My beloved is mine, and I am His." He had been a dutiful son all along, but there was now a new principle infused into his obedience that sweetened all the elements of bitterness. He learned, when serving from love to his Father in heaven, that if called to sacrifice in one direction, he reaped joys in another; and that, after all, the way of right is a way of pleasantness and a path of peace.

CHAPTER II.
SCHOOL AND COLLEGE LIFE.

In 1848 William Elmslie was regularly enrolled as a pupil in the Grammar School of Aberdeen, and never student more eager started in pursuit of knowledge. At that time its Rector was the Rev. Dr. Melvin, whose character and mode of tuition have been made famous as much by their results in the men they helped to mould, as by the graphic description of one of our finest writers. A few sentences from Professor Masson's paper may enable us to trace the kind of influence now brought to bear on William. "I have known many other men," writes the Professor, "since I knew him–men of far greater celebrity in the world, and of intellectual claims of far more rousing character than belong to Latin scholarship; but I have known no one, and I expect to know no one so perfect in his type as Melvin. Every man whose memory is tolerably faithful, can reckon up those to whom he is indebted; and trying to estimate at this moment the relative proportions of influences, from this man and that man, encountered by me, which I can still feel running in my veins, it so happens that I can trace none more distinct, however it may have been marred and mudded, than that stream which, as Melvin gave it, was truly 'honey-wine.'"–(Macmillan's Magazine, 1863, p. 231.)

When William first entered school he only felt in part the power of this remarkable man, but when promoted to the advanced classes, directly under Melvin's care, the enthusiasm of his nature was stirred, and his mind yielded itself to be moulded by him. He owed much of his success at college, and of his power in mastering languages, to the very careful mental training received from Melvin. "He gave us hard work," he said, "but it was intense enjoyment, for one's mind was strengthened, expanded, and in the truest, fullest meaning of the word, educated." During his first year William was often down-cast, for school life was new to him, and he felt himself far behind others of his age. However, he resolved to do his best, and to make the most of the much-prized privileges so long denied him. During holiday time, when others were at play, he was at his books; and not in vain, for at the beginning of his second year he gained by competition a bursary that helped to relieve him from pecuniary anxieties. By the end of the next session he stood high in his classes, and carried off the first prize in Greek. The Rev. Mr. Salmond, Free Church, Barry, one of William's friends at school and college, writes thus of these early days:–"We were close companions and studied very much together in private as well as in public. These were ever-memorable days, rich in generous friendships and affluent also with what should have been most helpful for the up-building of manly moral character and energetic intellectual life, when Dr. Melvin kept the youngest of us in fixed devotion to the genius of the Latin tongue, and when, after the decease of that unique master, Professor Geddes made us all a-glow with his own enthusiasm, and fired us with the classic spirit of Greek. Into what was best, in these buoyant and productive times of earliest mental discipline and most unselfish companionships, William Elmslie threw himself with all his heart, and was a friend to most. His position, too, was in some respects peculiar among us. His seriousness was more marked, and his independent spirit and his determination to do everything for himself, and to make the utmost of his opportunities, had methods of expressing themselves which were altogether his own. Commencing his course at a somewhat more advanced age than most of us, and possessing the advantage of having learned a trade, he used to excite our admiration by the sturdy diligence with which he toiled to support himself, in a way which many a silly youth would have counted beneath him, and also, in truth, our envy at the ability which he had thus acquired to possess himself of books beyond the reach of others. I well remember how ambitious some of us were to get a week's loan of some of his laboriously-earned treasures, and how ready he was to indulge us in that line of things. Thus it happened that, in addition to the text-books usually studied at that stage in Greek and Latin, not a few boys of some thirteen or fourteen years of age voluntarily mastered volumes ordinarily reserved for a later period,–such as "Zumpt's Grammar," "Döderlein's Synonyms," "Ramshorn's Synonyms," the first part of "Jelf's Greek Grammar,"[1] &c. And for a certain measure of the attainments aimed at and made by a good many beyond the stated requirements of the classes in these and other branches, we were indebted not a little to the stimulus of his example as well as to his willingness to help others with his books and counsel. His own acquirements in Latin were very considerable, and to Greek also he took with a burning affection and a determined perseverance, which might have led him on to distinguished results had the opportunity of continuing his studies been given him in Providence. In these youthful days, in short, the great features of character, which appeared subsequently in his work in a distant country, and in taxing circumstances, were the very qualities that constrained respect from all his comrades in school and college,–his readiness to take in hand all kinds of honest labour, manual and mental, his patient dedication to the task of the time, his thirst for knowledge, his zeal in helping others, and the hearty and fearless interest which he displayed all through his course in every decidedly religious movement. This last made him a somewhat outstanding member of our student-circles, and rendered the impression which he left upon his associates a very happy one."

When William got in some measure abreast of his school-fellows in learning, he rejoiced to join them in the playground in every manly sport. His hard work never inclined him to mope. With his whole heart he threw himself into the game. Of cricket he was particularly fond, and the company of which he was a member was called the "Thistle Club." He stood A-1 at bowling. He could not endure those meandering, sneaking balls that creep in upon you at unawares. No; the enemy got fair warning. Drawing himself well up, the body thrown back, and the lips compressed, he took careful aim; then off shot the ball, swift and straight as an arrow; and when he heard the delightsome clatter of the tumbling wickets, he cut a demi-somersault, and sang out merrily, "Nemo me impune lacessit."

It was near the close of William's fourth session at school that the death of the reverend rector took place. He fell paralysed to the ground one day while engaged in his classroom, and William Elmslie was one of the sorrowing pupils who helped to bear the almost lifeless form to his home,–not many days later to be borne thence to its narrow bed in the churchyard. William never ceased to be thankful that so much of his student life had been passed under an influence so beneficial, being deeply conscious of having gained in the Grammar School of Aberdeen such a mental training as enabled him to grapple with, and to overcome, the intellectual difficulties which, in after days, he had to encounter.

In November 1853, he passed from school to college; and with no little pride and pleasure his mother saw him don the scarlet cloak worn by the students of King's College, Aberdeen. "It was there," writes his friend, the Rev. Andrew Ritchie of Coull, "that I first met with William Elmslie. We were students of the same year, and I shared the same room with him in his parents' house. We both worked hard. It was no unusual thing for us to restrict ourselves to five hours' sleep. We engaged a watchman to waken us at three o'clock every morning; and we took it in turn to rise first, kindle the fire, and boil the coffee, which Mrs. Elmslie had made ready the night before. After enjoying a slice of bread and that good, warm coffee, we began our day's work. William was always prayerful and earnest, and from the very first we engaged in devotions together, as well as separately; it was our delight to talk of Christ, and of our desire to devote ourselves to his cause.

"William's work was harder than mine, for his father's failing health and eyesight made him now more and more dependent on his son's exertions. On this account, William undertook an engagement to teach in a school in Aberdeen, and he had also several private pupils. Being a first-rate student, and of gentlemanly manners, he had no difficulty in getting as much employment of this kind as he wished; but the constant hard work and severe study told on his health, and, at the close of the second session at college, he was forced to obey doctor's injunctions, and to seek rest and country air."

He spent some time with relatives in Elgin, and in the neighbourhood of Inverness, and returned, strengthened in mind and body, to take up again the double burden of supporting his parents and maintaining himself at college. Sometimes when his prospects were peculiarly dark, and he needed sympathy, friends took the occasion to urge him to give up the struggle altogether, and turn aside to something that would be immediately remunerative. He had a hard time of it when passing through his philosophical classes. To most honest, earnest students, this is a season of much conflict, and Mr. Elmslie's circumstances did not tend to make the doubts and temptations that usually encompass it easily borne. Sometimes, when he knelt to pray, troop after troop of doubts rushed in upon him, and made such assaults on his long cherished beliefs, that he gradually ceased to plead with God, and entered into regular mental warfare, becoming altogether unconscious of his kneeling posture. Recovering himself, he was shocked at his irreverence; tried to smooth himself down and feel solemn, but in the stillness a withering chill stole over him as if he were encircled by a boundless nothing. The "Eternal Silences" sent very cheerless responses to the groans that burst from his burdened spirit. With keen powers of analysis, and a slight tendency to introspection, it will be believed that such battles were not infrequent. It is needless to ask, in surprise, "But was he not a Christian?" Yes; but a far older and more experienced Christian was so puzzled by the mysteries of Providence that he exclaimed, "As for me, my feet were almost gone; my steps had wellnigh slipped." Mr. Elmslie's feet were on the rock, but he staggered greatly notwithstanding. Through all his varied forms of trial, his mother stood by him to sustain and cheer; and when his philosophic perplexities went beyond her depth, she at least could sympathise and pray. He used to say "that a mother's sympathy, if she had a Mary's faith, was the greatest blessing a young man could possess when first installed into the mysteries of philosophy." The mother and son had, all through, an unwavering conviction that God intended him for a higher form of service than boot-closing, and therefore trials did not discourage so much as might have been expected; for they were regarded as a fatherly discipline; a preparation for future usefulness, upon which they ceased not to ask the Divine blessing.

Having taken his degree in arts, he felt anxious, before deciding on a further course of study, to see something of the world, and to have a change from the scene of so much labour. He therefore gladly accepted a proposal to go abroad as tutor in the family of an Aberdeenshire gentleman, who was to spend the following winter in Italy. It was a curious fact which he sometimes quoted as an instance of God's overruling even our failings as a means of carrying out His own plan of our lives, that this gentleman's choice of him as tutor for his sons was caused by a preference for his handwriting, the very point on which he was most conscious of deficiency.

The year spent in Italy was not one of much enjoyment. William's sensitive nature suffered acutely in this first experience of life among strangers, and his position was rendered more trying and lonely from a misunderstanding between him and the father of his pupils. Nevertheless the lessons in human nature, and the experience of the world gained there, proved invaluable to him ever after.

Here, too, his self-reliance was strengthened, and he gained a firmer conviction of God's power to give him joy and peace, however untoward his outward circumstances might be.

In Florence he had the great privilege of meeting with some very helpful Christian friends, among whom was the Rev. Mr. Hannah, a young Irish clergyman, who had been appointed to minister to the English residents in that lovely city. William spent much of his spare time with this dear servant of God, who was then drawing very near the close of his service on earth, and was fast ripening for glory. The Spirit of God seemed to reveal to him much of what eye hath not seen, nor ear heard, neither hath it entered into the heart of man to conceive, and for which he was being made ready. To all who then ministered to him much blessing was given, and William richly shared it in a realisation of the unseen and the eternal such as he had never known before. During Mr. Hannah's illness, William agreed to relieve his mind of anxiety by conducting Sabbath services for his little congregation. He read to them some of his favourite sermons, such as Chalmers on "The expulsive power of a new affection;" Caird on the "Solitariness of our Lord's sufferings;" and Maclaren on the "Soul's thirst after God." The Rev. Mr. Macdougall, who relieved him of his position some six weeks later, used laughingly to say that Mr. Elmslie had quite spoiled the people, for they would never listen to any ordinary man's sermons after having enjoyed those intellectual feasts. William returned to England in June 1858, and in London heard an encouraging sermon from the Rev. Dr. Hamilton from a text well suited to his circumstances, "Casting all your care upon Him, for He careth for you."

[1] Mr. Elmslie was not able to purchase such books as the above; he hired them from a bookseller at so much per week.

CHAPTER III.
MEDICAL STUDENT LIFE IN ABERDEEN.

After his return from Florence Mr. Elmslie's thoughts were directed to the ministry; and having passed the required preliminary examinations, and gained a bursary by competition, he entered the Free Church Divinity College in November 1858. During the session his attention was drawn to the mission field, and as he searched his Bible, for instruction and direction, an element in missionary service so obtruded itself on his notice that it could neither be overlooked nor thrust aside. It became clear to his mind that when the Divine Spirit gave marked prominence, in the New Testament, to the combination of healing with preaching in the planting of Christianity, it was intended to instruct and guide those who, in after ages, might devote themselves to the extension of the kingdom of Christ. He accepted the lesson, and resolved to acquire the power of healing. Instead of attempting to follow the subjective changes through which Mr. Elmslie passed, as his thoughts gradually turned from a pastorate at home, to service as a medical missionary abroad, it may be more instructive to indicate, in a few brief sentences, how the subject of medical missions–the combination of healing with preaching–is presented in the Word of God. The more he studied the infallible missionary guide; and the more he contemplated the perfect Model Missionary–for He hath left us an ensample that we should walk in His steps–the more he became enamoured with the delightful form of service to which he now consecrated his life. But let us, for a moment, turn to the Scriptures. When the disciples of the Baptist approached the Saviour with the inquiry, "Art thou He that should come, or do we look for another? Jesus answered and said unto them, Go and show John again those things which ye do hear and see: the blind receive their sight and the lame walk, the lepers are cleansed, and the deaf hear, the dead are raised up and the poor have the gospel preached unto them" (Matt. xi. 3-5). He healed the sick and preached the gospel and pointed the inquirers to that combination as proof conclusive that He was the Sent of God. The combination was not fortuitous or incidental; it was foretold; and it was a striking way of delivering part of the message He brought us from the Father,–that He came "to bear our sicknesses" and to be "the Saviour of the body." This mode of procedure was wondrously fitted to secure a friendly consideration to his claims among the ignorant, the indifferent, or the hostile; and was full of wisdom and tenderness. It is well to note that this is not a solitary instance of the combination of healing and preaching, got up to settle doubts in the minds of John's disciples. In the life of Jesus it is "use and wont," and their attention is directed to it as a sample of what He is doing every day, and occasionally to such an extent that there is not time "so much as to eat bread," and His relatives think "He is beside Himself." It is not necessary to multiply quotations. One must suffice. "And Jesus went about all Galilee, teaching in their synagogues and preaching the gospel of the kingdom, and healing all manner of sickness and all manner of disease among the people. And His fame went throughout all Syria; and they brought unto Him all sick people that were taken with divers diseases and torments, and those which were possessed with devils, and those which were lunatic, and those that had the palsy; and He healed them" (Matt. iv. 23, 24.).

This combination of healing with the preaching of the gospel is not only largely exhibited in the ministry of Jesus, but was enjoined by Him upon the Apostles who practised it in the home and foreign mission field, during their Master's lifetime and after His ascension to glory. Their commission is particularly clear on this point,–"As ye go, preach, saying, The kingdom of God is at hand. Heal the sick; ... freely ye have received, freely give" (Matt. x. 7, 8). "He sent them (the twelve disciples) to preach the kingdom of God and to heal the sick" (Luke ix. 2). Very similar are the instructions given by the Lord to the seventy home missionaries whom He sent, two and two, into every city whither He Himself would come. "Heal the sick that are therein, and say unto them, The kingdom of God is come nigh unto you."

The case of Paul is very instructive. Most of his life, after his conversion, was spent in pioneering mission work, in which the "healing" element was likely to be of much use, and we find he was endowed with that power in a remarkable degree. In Ephesus, an important heathen centre, where opposition was strong and his difficulties many and great, it is said, "God wrought special miracles by the hands of Paul; so that from his body were brought unto the sick handkerchiefs or aprons, and the diseases departed from them, and the evil spirits went out of them" (Acts xix. 11, 12). An apron or handkerchief having touched the Apostle's body is carried to a sufferer and suffices to effect a cure. This indicates a marvellous latitude for the exercise of the healing power, and yet it is evident there were limitations to it. This great Apostle, who was not a whit behind the chiefest of the apostles, was not able to cure Timothy, though much depended on his enjoying vigorous health. We infer this inability from the fact that Paul left him in his infirmity, and fell back on the very humble "Recipe"–"Take a little wine for thy stomach's sake." Why not heal him right off? Why not send a "handkerchief" to him? Again, we read, "Trophimus have I left at Miletum, sick." Very strange, if there be no restrictions imposed on this power to heal! Why cure Sergius Paulus, a heathen, and leave his Christian friend lying ill? More striking still; Epaphroditus was sick, nigh unto death, and Paul's heart was breaking lest he should die, and he should have sorrow upon sorrow. Why not try the efficacy of the handkerchief here? Paul assuredly would have cured him if he could. There were not many such labourers as Epaphroditus, and so he could ill be spared from active duty; and Paul's affection made sure that everything possible would be done for him, yet the sickness presses on; "nigh unto death" and the apostle's sorrow deepens. These restrictions tend to show that the exercise of the healing power was much limited within the domain of the Church. On the other hand it seemed to enjoy unlimited scope in its approaches to an outlying heathenism. The combination of healing with preaching was plainly intended to be a pioneering agency. "Into whatsoever city ye enter, heal the sick."

The significance of these lessons, as pointing out the path of duty to us, is not weakened by the fact that all the "healing" was performed by supernatural power; for, in those early days, the same power that enabled the missionary to heal enabled him to speak in "an unknown tongue." But the withdrawal of the miraculous from this latter element of missions does not free us from the obligation "to go into all the world," and, by the use of our natural faculties, acquire the ability to speak in foreign tongues. So in regard of the power to heal–it must be now gained by diligent study. The Scriptures thus seem to show very plainly that the best way of reaching the heathen, and, consequently, that the most effective form of mission agency is to combine healing with the preaching of the gospel. Most certainly this was the practice of Christ and the apostles; and it must surely be unwise to disregard the plain teaching of that practice regarding the best means of spreading the gospel. Mr. Elmslie, as we have said, bowed to the Scripture teaching, and resolved to acquire the power of healing–to become a medical missionary. The cause at that time was little known and little esteemed; but he was fully persuaded in his own mind; and this clear conviction helped to uphold him during the storm that burst upon him when he made known his intention to study medicine. To face four years of study, with winter and summer courses, besides the heavy expense of a medical education, seemed madness to his friends, and they vehemently opposed him in his resolution; but hitherto the Lord had helped him, and to be a workman thoroughly furnished for the Master's service appeared to him worth any amount of effort and self-denial. Accordingly he braced himself up to his work. Again he taught in the Academy, received private pupils, stitched the 'uppers' of boots and shoes, and pored over his books. Sixteen hours of work daily was the rule in those busy years. Study was rather a relaxation than anything else. Long-continued custom had begotten a love for it, and obstacles seemed to add a certain zest to his pursuit of knowledge. But during this preparation period there were seasons when the cares of poverty pressed heavily; and faith, hope, and patience required to be in fullest exercise.

At one time, when sorely bestead, he made a journey on foot all the way to Inverness, where a brother of his mother's lived in comfortable circumstances. His purpose was to lay his case before him, and to ask temporary aid, to be restored with interest when God should give him power to win money for himself. He was kindly welcomed, and invited to spend some weeks in the family, but no inquiry was made as to his circumstances, nor was any assistance offered. He could not muster fortitude to break to his uncle the subject of his necessities; and so he returned to Aberdeen with an empty purse and a "full" heart, to work harder, if possible, and to pray more earnestly. Remembering the hopes and the bitter disappointment of that journey, he used to say that a rich man could hardly give greater comfort, or do more good than by extending a helping hand to "a struggling student, really in earnest in his work, and with his Master's service as his dearest aim." These words are in capitals, to express Mr. Elmslie's strong views as to the kind of students to whom help would be a benefit. They must be "struggling" students, who, above all things, love the Master and His work. He came to know that some who had no love for Jesus might take up the profession of religion, to be helped into the profession of medicine. They did not "struggle," and had not the remotest intention to struggle, but were mean enough to accept the fruits of self-sacrifice on the part of others, that they might live in comfort and self-indulgence. He held very strongly that no student with a trace of manliness in him, would accept such help from others, save in real necessity, and then only as an accommodation.

It is necessary to advert to the difficulties with which Mr. Elmslie had to contend, but very pleasing it is to note how cheerily he grappled with them. Writing to his friend, Mr. Ritchie, from Ballater–whither he had gone for rest–in 1859, at a time when dark clouds in abundance clustered around his horizon, he says: "I am living here very much like a hermit. But, for all that, I feel very happy, except now and then when a cloud comes over the horizon of my mind. I then feel a temporary sadness, which, however, soon passes, as when a cloud crosses the disc of the sun. O for another such laugh as we had the first day we were here, it would do us good. It's a delicious thing, a good hearty laugh. You will be thinking I am getting mighty wise, having so much time and inclination for reading. Far from it. It takes a great deal of reading to make one wise. One retains so little of what he reads, that it is a long, long time before the grains of gold gathered assume any considerable bulk." Writing to the same friend a few days later, he says: "I was extremely glad yesterday to see you before me in 'black upon white.'"

"I knew you had been doing business by the address on the envelope–it was so smart and commercial like, as much as to say, Get out of the way, you poor student, you can't transact business like me; what do you think, I am a man with an income of a hundred–a hundred and twenty pounds! every farthing–that's something worth writing. No more two guineas an hour. No more rushing from house to house, like one begging his bread from door to door, in a cold night in December. No, no; nothing so beggarly; I am a little gentleman now, and shall be able to spend my winter evenings within doors as far as is agreeable to my taste. I say I almost saw all that, and a great deal more, depicted on that commercial envelope of yours. And when I opened, I found my most sanguine expectations fully realised; you being the proud master of £120 a year, with twenty-two urchins to drill scholastically. Your bread's baken, Andrew, I said, for the next year, at least. Now I think you acted wisely in accepting the offer, although you should hold the situation only for a year. And I will tell you why. Your responsibility is increased, and that not to such an extent as to crush you under its weight. It's of great consequence, I consider it, to have one's responsibility thus gradually increased. It fits one for a farther increase, when he has successfully carried his previous burden. Why is it that some men, and especially ministers, so completely fail in sustaining the weight of responsibility that is suddenly laid upon their shoulders? Just because their shoulders are strangers to the weight, and the weight is too much for them at first. I suppose you see what I am driving at."

At the election of Lord Rector for the University in 1860, Mr. Elmslie took a somewhat prominent part. In Aberdeen, on such occasions, the votes are given by "Nations,"–a nation representing the students from certain defined districts. They sometimes differed greatly in numerical strength. This year, for example, Mar contained 149 matriculated students, Moray registered only 49, and yet in electoral value, they were equal! On this occasion, two nations voted for one candidate, and two for the other, but there was a majority of 38 students in favour of one of the candidates, so that when the Principal intimated his intention of settling the difficulty by giving his casting vote against the candidate supported by the majority of students, the Mar and Angus nations resolved to dispute said vote as "inexpedient, incompetent, and illegal." Funds were raised to meet the law expenses, and Mr. Elmslie was appointed treasurer. It is amusing to note the carefulness with which, in letter after letter, he impresses on the agents in Edinburgh that he and his companions are not to be held responsible for the payment of a single farthing beyond the monies actually received.

The election was carried against his party, and on the 16th March 1861, the professors and students assembled to hear the Rector's inaugural address. At the close of the preliminary services, when the successful candidate was just going to speak, Mr. Elmslie, being a procurator, ascended the platform, and very deliberately read a protest against the validity of his election. He then, with a low bow, placed the document in the hands of the Principal, and walked out of the room, followed by a considerable number of students. But many of the same party remained to see what was to be the upshot of their proceedings; and not a few, to give impressiveness to their protest, had come to the hall armed with peas, shot, stones, and other such-like persuasive but most illogical arguments, and the result was a "row," prodigiously out of keeping with academic propriety. Although Mr. Elmslie was entirely blameless in regard to these low proceedings, the amount of censure awarded him was singularly liberal. "Nothing," writes his companion in the struggle,–now the Rev. Mr. Mackie of St. Mary's E. C. Dumfries–"nothing could be more alien to Elmslie's feelings and sense of duty than any breach of university discipline. He took no part in it, and restrained it to the utmost of his power." Referring to these student days, Mr. Mackie writes, "My early acquaintance with Mr. Elmslie impressed me equally with esteem for the greatness of his intellect, and the goodness of his heart. He was slow of speech, but swift in judging. Often, when plans were proposed, he would simply say 'No' very slowly, and then render a single reason which left no room for any other reply than 'I see.' He was one of the most satisfactory friends I have ever had in life; for you could count upon him at all times. I cannot recall a single instance in which his counsel seemed to fail me when we were acting together under very trying circumstances, with very few opportunities for consultation. His memory was remarkably tenacious of any agreement as to co-operation, as he was remarkably tenacious of his purposes. One always knew where he would find him."

In the end of July of 1862 he passed his second professional examination. "It was," he writes to Mr Ritchie, "a long, stiff, but I am happy to say, a successful pull. We had nine hours hard work,–to me at least it was hard. There was no little manual work, apart from the mental effort required in summoning up so many facts and putting them together in a connected form. I was exceedingly fortunate in the subject on which I was examined (vivâ voce). I answered the questions as fast as they were put to me, and altogether got on splendidly until I felt sorry when the examinations were ended, because I could not get any longer opportunity of showing off how thoroughly I was 'up.' This was a bit of vanity, but pardonable, I think; was it not? At the close of the examination, on being called into the Senatus Chamber, I was informed by the Dean of the Faculty that I had passed with 'much credit.'"

At an early stage of his studies Mr. Elmslie had heard of the Edinburgh Medical Missionary Society, an organization which paid the class fees, text books, and cost of licences of young men desiring to prepare themselves for the mission field. The reader is already aware that it was no easy task for Mr. Elmslie to open up his difficulties to others, but pressed by necessity, and encouraged by friends, he laid his case before the society in Edinburgh, and on the 7th May 1860 he got the following reply from the secretary, Dr. Coldstream, "I was instructed to inform you that the committee cannot consent to relax in your favour, their regulations as to residence in Edinburgh, during the Medical Curriculum, and the requiring their students to abstain from private teaching." It is due to the gentleman who sent this official notice to state, that he spoke a word of kindly cheer from himself which helped to lessen the bitterness of disappointment.

"Afflictions are not joyous but grievous;" sometimes, however, they are very profitable: and there is nothing for which Mr. Elmslie gives more frequent or more hearty thanks, than for his "afflictions"–for the very trials, the record of which awakens our sympathy. Soon again he was battling as cheerily with his responsibilities as if he had received no disheartening repulse. Some twelve months after, an influential friend in Aberdeen brought his case a second time before the Board in Edinburgh. This gave rise to a very instructive correspondence, but our present object requires us to cull from it nothing more than the simple fact, that notwithstanding the difficulties mentioned above as lying in the way of his getting help from Edinburgh he did get a grant in aid of £15.

Having passed his second professional examination with honours, he came to the last year of his medical course, rejoicing, as students usually do at that period, in the thought that practically his battle was fought. I was anxious, he writes, "to spend the winter in Edinburgh, as it was in all likelihood my last before going abroad." And so he came south prepared to accept gratefully, as a temporary accommodation, such benefits as the Missionary Society could bestow. Mr. Elmslie feared there might be some risk in coming to attend medical classes in Edinburgh, if he purposed–as he did–to return to Aberdeen for his final examination and degree; but his desire to be even for one season under men like Syme, Simpson, Miller, &c., overcame his hesitation, and in November 1862 he became an inmate of our humble home in the Dispensary in Edinburgh.

CHAPTER IV.
MEDICAL STUDENT LIFE IN EDINBURGH.

It seems becoming to give a brief notice of the society from which Mr. Elmslie got temporary assistance, or rather to permit the society to say a few words for itself. It began in November 1841. Its objects are thus stated: "The objects of the Edinburgh Medical Missionary Society shall be to circulate information on the subject of medical missions, to aid other institutions engaged in the same work, and to render assistance at missionary stations to as many professional agents as the funds placed at its disposal shall admit of." After existing for twenty years it thus reports itself: "The Society has now entered upon the twentieth year of its existence. The retrospect is at once humbling and encouraging. Humbling in respect of the small extent to which the objects contemplated have been carried out, and of the imperfections of the machinery now in operation; encouraging, because the principle for which the society had at its formation to contend, has now been generally acknowledged by the friends of missions as a sound one."

The year before Mr. Elmslie came to Edinburgh, this society was amalgamated with another and independent Medical Missionary Society, which, though young in years, gave strong evidence of vitality. The two societies being "germane in their objects," they became one, and after the union, the following prospectus was issued, bearing the imprimatur of the whole directorate:–

"The object of the Society is to promote the propagation of the gospel amongst heathen and other unenlightened people, through the agency of well-qualified medical practitioners, who are either partially supported, or aided by grants of medicines, books, and instruments.

"The society aids and directs the education of promising young men who resolve to devote themselves to medical missionary service.

"It provides for the half of the salary of a medical missionary at Madras, whose labours, extended over four years, have been greatly blessed–5760 persons having received aid last year. This mission deals with a portion of the heathen population of Madras, beyond the direct influence of any other missionary agency.

"The society maintains a dispensary in the Cowgate of Edinburgh, in which religious instruction is combined with medical treatment. During last year this dispensary administered medical aid to 5332 patients, all of whom had the Word of Life set before them. A well-qualified superintendent, with assistants, takes charge of the dispensary, which supplies an admirable training school for the society's students. The attendance at the prayer-meetings, held for persons in their working-clothes, is very encouraging. There are not wanting proofs of these means having been blessed to the awakening and conversion of souls.

"The society organises monthly meetings for the benefit of the medical students attending the Colleges in Edinburgh, who are addressed on various subjects, more or less illustrative of the principles and progress of Christian Missions." Reminding our readers that this refers to the state of matters some twelve years ago, we return to Mr. Elmslie.

The mission work of the dispensary he enjoyed greatly; but only a little of it was permitted to him, or to any of the students, lest they should be diverted from their medical studies. In all mission dispensaries it is the practice, when the patients have assembled, to hold a short religious service with them, which affords an excellent opportunity for commending Christ. It fell to Mr. Elmslie to conduct this service once a week, and it was quite a refreshment to himself to do so; but he was not effective as a speaker on such occasions. There was a monotony in his delivery that disposed to drowsiness, and a want of point and power that surprised those who knew his logical cast of mind, and his varied stores of information. But in another part of the work he was quite an adept. The superintendent, distressed at witnessing large numbers of neglected youths lounging idle about the district where he laboured, resolved to do something for their spiritual benefit, and Mr. Elmslie joyfully assisted. The lads were frightfully wild. On the Sabbath evenings especially, work being suspended, they gathered in the neighbourhood in large and numerous groups. "It was impossible to be indifferent to their presence. Their noisy demonstrations compelled attention; and though we might contrive to pass them, utterly regardless of the interest of their souls, we were obliged to be most considerately mindful of the interest of our own 'shins.' It was not safe to go near them, for they were continually fighting, and wrestling, and plunging about in the most alarming fashion." Fourteen of these lads sat down to tea with Mr. Elmslie every Sabbath night in one of the rooms of the dispensary, and this attractive opening service was followed by a Bible lesson. At first they were inclined to be troublesome, but the quiet firmness with which he grasped the reins made the most reckless feel that opposition was hopeless. His mastery over them was complete; and without any visiting efforts on his part, the attendance was wonderfully regular. Several of his pupils were at least outwardly reformed; and one, it is hoped, got real spiritual blessing. He gave up his evil practices, attended to his business, began to go to church, and became a respectable tradesman. Dropping in at the close of Mr. Elmslie's meeting, as the writer often did, it was a touching sight to witness the band of lawless outcasts kneeling reverently around him, whilst he poured out the deep yearnings of his heart on their behalf to Him who came to seek and to save the lost.

In the household visitation of his patients, Mr. Elmslie soon became a great favourite. He had suffered, being tried, and was therefore able to sympathise with those in trial. Young as he was, he could to some extent use the language of the apostle, "That we may be able to comfort them which are in any trouble by the comfort wherewith we ourselves are comforted of God." He was welcomed amongst the poor not merely as a doctor, but as a friend. The children clung to him, and he had many pets amongst them who amused and refreshed him. "I am very sorry, indeed," he writes of one of these, "to learn that wee Sandy has been taken away from you. He was a great pet of mine, and I think the wee man liked the doctor. I trust Sandy is singing to-day in heaven, not 'There is a happy land, far, far away;' but this is the happy land. I do sympathise with you and Mrs. –– very sincerely, but what is in heaven is certainly not lost. Heaven has now a greater hold upon you, and if Sandy's going away helps to make you think more of Jesus, and to desire and strive to live a godly life, then wee Sandy will not have lived and died in vain."

Mr. Elmslie was usually so wide-awake, that it was not often he was found off his guard. But in the course of this session he was fairly caught napping. The incident is trifling, but it shows how a good and diligent student may get into an awkward predicament through mere thoughtlessness. Mr. David Young and he were grinding in one of the empty rooms of the college. They were overheard discussing a knotty question, when –– laid his hand on Mr. Young's shoulder, and said, "If you will both promise to be good boys, I think I can help you in 'grinding' up that difficult bit." "How?" was at once the inquiry. "Dr. –– has a splendid preparation, and I'm sure he won't object to diligent students seeing it sometimes." (Rather generous, to be obliging with another man's goods!) Next day they were duly introduced into Dr. ––'s sanctum, and the magnificent preparation placed before them. Their friend then withdrew, and they fastened the door on the inside. It was a golden opportunity; but "we had not done much," says Mr. Young, "when a sharp footstep came along the passage towards us. We instinctively held our breath, and looked at each other. The surprise deepened when a key was hastily thrust into the door of our sanctum, but being snibbed, it could not be opened, and Dr. –– went along the passage calling loudly for our obliging friend, who found it necessary to be engaged elsewhere at that moment, and did not appear. Meanwhile I rose and unfastened the door, and Dr. –– soon returning, entered and found us sitting before his model. He held up both his hands, and exclaimed, "What is this? My almost priceless preparation, which I would not allow my most intimate friend to touch!" By this time the culprits were standing; and, after a becoming pause, Elmslie began to sing Miserere, but was cut short at once. "That will do, gentlemen; you may go." They crept out in the meekest attitude possible, and certain uneasy misgivings regarding the propriety of their conduct, suggested some anxious glances behind them during their departure.

The time for his final examination in Aberdeen, in the spring of 1863, drew near, and the hopes and fears that usually agitate students on such an occasion, Mr. Elmslie felt with peculiar force. He knew that the stand he made at the rectorial election had not gained favour for him in the senate; and he feared his coming to attend medical classes in Edinburgh might not be relished by the medical faculty; and therefore, during the whole session, he had studied earnestly. "I never," he said, "studied harder in my life." He did so because he wished to maintain his reputation as a student. How natural, also, that he should desire to see the end of his severe struggle, not to support himself merely, but his little household; and, besides, he longed to be free to go forth, without let or hindrance, to the blessed work of winning souls. Knowing how much depended on this, his last appearance, he says, in another letter, "I studied with might and main." He went in to his examination; he did his best; he thought he had done well, but, to his inexpressible astonishment and grief, he was "plucked,"–an ugly word, but it is the term we students best understand; it comes closest home to our consciousness, and carries in it the concentrated essence of all that is undesirable in our student life;–plucked in Aberdeen in the two subjects which unhappily he had not studied there; rejected in Aberdeen in midwifery, for which, during the session, he won Sir J. Y. Simpson's diploma, and a certificate of merit to boot; rejected in Aberdeen on medical jurisprudence, for which, in Edinburgh, by fair competition, he carried off the gold medal. It is not our province to comment, and we studiously abstain from it; it is ours simply to chronicle; but a single word of sympathy from a personal friend of Elmslie's may not be out of place:–"Dear Elmslie," writes Professor Miller, "I sympathise with you most keenly in your heavy trial.... 'God defend the right,' was a stout and good old battle-cry, and He will." Mr. Elmslie returned to Edinburgh.

On rejoining us in the dispensary, there was much prayer for divine guidance, for it was a time of great perplexity. He was strongly urged to go back to Aberdeen, and take his degree in July. This, it was truly said, was the easiest course, so far as work was concerned. It was certainly the cheapest, and that was a consideration he could well appreciate. For a time he felt the sore pangs of suspense as to the path of duty; but the more he thought over it, the more evident it became, that were he to go back to Aberdeen, so shortly after being publicly rejected, it would appear that he was getting his qualification as a favour, and not as a right, and that all through life a certain suspiciousness or doubtfulness would attach to his degree,–and therefore to his professional standing,–seeing it was so immediately preceded by a "plucking." He could not return to Aberdeen. The following short note to his mother, which is the first he wrote after his rejection, shows the quarter in which he sought support and guidance:–"M. M. Dispensary, 16th May 1863.–Dearest Mother,–I was delighted to get your cheering note, and very glad to hear that you feel comforted in mind, though very lonely. Let us cling close to Jesus, let us draw out of His fulness, and never forget that He cares for us,–for you, and for Stewart, and me–infinitely more than for the flowers which are looking so lovely just now. We may look upon ourselves as belonging truly to Him. May we not, dear mother? Then let us believe that all things will be made to work together for good for us,–even this, sore trial though at present it seems. May God bless and comfort you by His Spirit, dear mother.–Your affectionate son, William."

When it was finally determined that he should take an extra year of study and graduate in Edinburgh, he withdrew as soon as possible from all official connection with the dispensary, and took lodgings in Brown Street; borrowing money from private friends to enable him to meet the responsibilities so unexpectedly thrown upon him. This was, to Mr. Elmslie, perhaps the hardest winter of his life. There was no difficulty, it is true, in finding those who were willing enough to lend to him, but a man must borrow with great hesitation and consideration, who honestly intends to repay, as Mr. Elmslie did; and, besides, one of an independent spirit is the less inclined to borrow the greater his need. Then Mr. Elmslie's mother was feeling so much her loneliness, through his continued absence from home, that he strove to the utmost that she should be comfortable, whatever might become of himself. Friends could not fail to notice that it was to him a season of serious self-denial, and once and again, with the view of moderating the severity of the pressure upon him, found means to convey help to him without letting him know whence it came. These love tokens were accompanied with the single sentence, "Your Father knoweth that ye have need of these things." Soon after the packets reached their destination, he ran along to us to ask us to help him to give God thanks.

Before settling down to the hard study of the winter, he cleared off his first professional examination in the University at Edinburgh, and sent his mother the following account of the appearance he made:–"6 Brown Street, Edinburgh, Nov. 4, 1863. My ever dear Mother,–Bless the Lord with me for His great goodness to me! I have passed (my first professional) at the University of Edinburgh, and more than passed, for the professors passed high encomiums on the excellence of my papers. Prof. Balfour was so satisfied with my paper on botany, that he merely showed me some microscopic preparations, and asked me to name them. Prof. Playfair said my paper on chemistry was so good, that he did not intend to put a single question more. On learning that I had been a pupil of Prof. Brazier's, he said I reflected great credit on my former teacher. Oh, mother, these were little words, but how sweet they were to me! In my heart, all the time I listened to them, I was blessing God for having given me power to write such papers, and thus to corroborate all that had been said in favour of my character as a student. The paper on natural history was without one error, and Prof. Allman, in my viva voce, was fully satisfied with my answers. How thankful I am and ought to be. I don't think I ever studied so hard as during the past five weeks. The subjects to which I had to devote my attention were extensive, and I knew that much depended on my success. The thought of that nerved me. I prayed constantly and earnestly that the Lord would bless my efforts, and He has! ... Please let me have dear Stewart's letter, that I may write him a long answer.... My communion last Sabbath was not so happy as I could have wished; my mind was too exhausted for full enjoyment, but I was enabled to feel myself a sinner, and once more to take Jesus to be my Saviour."

Few could say more truthfully than Mr. Elmslie that he prayed "constantly and earnestly." This session, especially, when labouring to redeem his character as a student from the slur cast upon it by his rejection, he seemed to feel the need of constant waiting upon God. He prayed as much as if study were of little use; he studied as hard as if to pray were vain. He furnished a good illustration of "Praying and Working." This winter he became secretary to the "Medical Student's Devotional Society," and did what he could to promote its interests. There was something touching in Mr. Elmslie's manner in prayer. He spoke in his natural voice, without a trace of the artificial in its tone. His sentences were short and very simple, which gave a child-like character to his supplications; and it was encouraging to note the confidingness with which, in humbleness of spirit, he made known his wants to his Father in heaven.

The following short letter to his mother notes the progress of his studies:–"6 Brown Street, 29th February, 1864. My dearest Mother,–Your last note was very cheering to me. The same post brought me one from Stewart, telling of his safe arrival at his ship, for which I join you in thanking our Heavenly Father. I continue to feel less nervous, and am able to study very hard. God will bless those strenuous efforts, and, as you say truly, dear mother, the time will soon slip away, and we shall see each other again. Take great care of yourself till then, dear mother. My examinations take place early in April, but I don't intend, at present at least, to appear again in Aberdeen till I am doctor of medicine from the university; that can not be till the 1st August. Dr. Candlish is to deliver the first of his course of lectures on the Fatherhood of God to-morrow, and a great treat I expect it to be. We have lost Mr. Dykes; you will be sorry to hear his health has obliged him to leave St. George's, where his preaching was so much appreciated,–and he has gone to rest in Italy for the present. God bless and comfort you with the precious consolations of His Spirit!–Dear mother, your loving son, William."

One subject for prayer which was never omitted was guidance as to his future sphere of labour. Only two of the places brought under his notice require mention–Bombay and Kashmir. Friends interested in the extension of medical missions were exerting themselves to raise £2000, to guarantee a fair start to a medical mission in Bombay; but, till the sum should be completed, even those who looked upon Elmslie as the very man for the sphere, and longed to possess him, had not faith to enter into a definite agreement with him. Gladly would Mr. Elmslie have gone to Bombay, for he considered it one of the most important heathen centres in India, where there was full scope for the exercise of all the gifts and graces wherewith God had blessed him. He more than once spoke of the unbelief that shrunk from fixing him, when the hand of God was so manifest in all the antecedent movements connected with that mission. Kashmir was under his notice for a considerable time. This was also a new mission.

"It was in the year 1862," says the Rev. Mr. Clark, "that the Kashmir Mission was commenced by an address which was sent to the Church Missionary Society, signed by most of the great and good men who then held in their hands the government of the Punjaub. They knew that the best means of benefitting Kashmir was the gift of God's Word, and the exemplification of Christian charity. Kashmir, from the earliest times, had been an outlying province of the Punjaub, and had been made over by us to the present reigning family not twenty years before; and Christian people desired to place within reach of the people in Kashmir the same blessings which they had endeavoured to give to the Punjaub. It was during a journey on the mountain-road between Murree and Abbottabad, that the idea first occurred to Dr. Cleghorn, that Kashmir was one of those countries where the influence of medical skill would greatly avail to aid the introduction of Christ's gospel."

The "Church Missionary Society's Committee of Correspondence, April 5, 1864, resolved–That, adverting to the Christian zeal and extraordinary liberality of the friends of the Society in the Punjaub towards the establishment of the Kashmir Mission, and their judgment of the importance to its success of a medical missionary, this Committee will make the present case an exception to their general practice, and will be willing to enter into communication with Mr. Elmslie, with a view to his appointment to the Kashmir Mission, provided that he is prepared cordially to act upon the missionary principles of the Society." The movement in this country was promoted by Professor Balfour, Dr. Coldstream, and the Rev. G. D. Cullen, all of whom took a kind interest in Mr. Elmslie, and the result was, that he was appointed for five years a lay agent of the Church Missionary Society, and hence his Presbyterianism was not much of a difficulty. But there was a permanent drawback connected with the mission in Kashmir: "He seems," writes Dr. Coldstream "to be somewhat staggered by the rajah's law of exclusion from his possessions for six months of each year; but I have encouraged him to believe, that it may be quite possible for him to find abundance of occupation during that period of exclusion, in territory under British rule or protection."

"I can bear testimony," continues the worthy doctor, "very fully and with confidence, in favour of Mr. Elmslie, as having apparently all the gifts and graces which one desires to see conjoined in a medical missionary."

His medical examinations in Edinburgh, at the College of Surgeons and University, were duly passed with credit (he did "splendidly," he wrote to his mother), and he was capped in August 1864, and there was therefore now no ambiguity circling round his professional Status. Instead of writing to his much-loved mother, he rushed home to enjoy her company during the few weeks he could now afford before sailing for India. The following passage from a letter to Mrs. Coldstream shows the direction of his thoughts at this time:–

"27 Blackfriars Street, Aberdeen, 31st August 1864.–It does greatly gladden my heart to know that you have been making me and my future labours the subject of earnest supplication at the throne of grace. I very much need your urgent petitions in my behalf, for although I have used my prayerful endeavour all along to have myself qualified for the special work to which, I trust, I have been called; nevertheless, when I get but a dim glimpse of the numerous and heavy responsibilities and great difficulties of my future position, as a labourer for Jesus among the benighted heathen, the irresistible exclamation of my heart is, Who is sufficient for these things? Quickly, however, I have the cheering response whispered into the ear of my faith by the loving and sympathising One, 'My grace is sufficient for thee.' I rest in that declaration of our Saviour. My dear mother, I am happy to be able to say, loves the Saviour, and does not grudge to give up a son to work under His banner, who has done so much for her soul. Who would not be willing to give up all to Jesus when He makes the demand? You can easily fancy how very much this willing surrendering of me to the Lord by my dear mother diminishes the sorrow which we mutually feel at the thought of being so far and so long separated. Jesus sweetens everything."

CHAPTER V.
JOURNEY TO INDIA.

As mentioned by Dr. Elmslie in his letter to Mrs. Coldstream, it greatly lessened the trial of parting from his mother, that she came at length to be willing to give him up to foreign service. Long after his own mind was satisfied that he was called to labour amongst the heathen in distant lands, the mother failed to see that there was any need that her darling son should go so far from home. Sometimes she tried to introduce the subject, to plead with him from her standpoint; but whenever she approached it, he held up his hand, and, with an earnest deprecating gesture cried, "No! mother, no." Having got, as he believed, his marching orders from the "Captain of Salvation," he could not confer with flesh and blood. "Let her tell Jesus," he used to say; "He will put all right," and He did, for she gave him up willingly; and fondly she blessed him. It aggravated the trial on both sides that Mrs. Elmslie's other son–a sailor–was then far away from home; but William did his utmost to arrange for her comfort after his departure. His first note addressed to her after rejoining us in Edinburgh bears date, "Friday night," and was written after special prayer by a few friends, that the Lord would graciously sustain and comfort her: "My dearest mother ... cheer up. I am well, and our loving Father is supporting me graciously in this hour of trial. He will sustain both of us if we lean on His almighty arm. I leave in an hour for London after very laborious work in Edinburgh. Every one is very kind to me. God bless and comfort you.–Your loving son, Willie."

"Southampton, 19th September 1864.–My ever dearest Mother,–When I dropped you my last note I was indeed in a very great hurry, for I had but a few minutes before leaving for London. Dear Mr. Ritchie's coming with me has been a source of great pleasure. I heartily wish he were coming all the way to India. After transacting all my business in London, we went down to Windsor, and spent the remainder of Saturday and Sunday with Uncle Stewart and Emma, who welcomed us most cordially. Vine Cottage is a little paradise of a place, I wish I could transport you to it, dear mother; how much good it would do you. We went to church in old Windsor where we heard a pitiably poor sermon. In the afternoon we went to St. George's Chapel at Windsor Castle; there was no sermon, but the music was very grand. I believe most of the members of the choir are professionals....

"I am really well now, dearest mother. I trust you are leaning on God and rejoicing in Him. Rejoice in the Lord alway.–Your ever loving son, Willie."

"Southampton, 20th September 1864, 'Poonah.'–Just about to sail. Sorry about you, dear mother; only kept up by the knowledge that the Lord Himself is with you. Lean hard on the Lord, and may He spare us to meet! The Lord bless you and comfort you. I shall write from Gibraltar in a very few days.–Your ever loving son, Willie."

"Poonah, off the coast of Portugal, Sept. 24.–My ever dear Mother,–We expect to arrive in Gibraltar to-morrow morning, and I cannot let an opportunity pass without posting a few lines for you.

"I have great reason for thankfulness to our gracious Father for all His kindness since I left you. With the exception of one day's sickness, I have kept well even through the heavy swell on the Bay of Biscay....

"I daresay you feel curious to know how I like board-ship life, and who my fellow-passengers are. We have Englishmen, Scotchmen, Irishmen, Dutchmen, and old Indians on board, and among the servants there are natives of India and China. Poor things, they are so looked down upon; I long to be able to speak a kind word to them, and to tell them that God loves them. There are two others in the cabin with me,–one a Christian man, an officer from the Punjaub, who knows the missionaries there. He also knows Dr. F––, and speaks highly in praise of him.

"We have three clergymen with us, one of whom is Archdeacon of Madras, to whom Major R–- proposed that we should have morning prayers, and this has been begun. Only a few have, as yet, attended, but it was pleasant to unite in thanking God for His great goodness, and to claim fulfilment of the promise that where two or three are gathered together in Christ's name, He will be in the midst of them. To-day we had a larger attendance.... My own morning reading is the Bible; I also have had great pleasure in reading 'Gentle Life.' Our usual routine is: at 9, breakfast; 10, prayers; reading till 12, the hour for luncheon; on deck reading or conversing till 4, when the summons to dinner is heard. I must tell you what a fix I was in the first day at dinner. You know what a fear I have of being called on to carve; but where do you think I found my place at table, but right before a dish of fowls! I had to do my best, but have managed to avoid that seat ever since. After dinner there is the same round of reading, talking, or playing chess. I long to be in India, settled to work, for this kind of life is mere vegetating. I mean to begin the study of Hindustani next week: this will be my chief work for some months to come. Pray for me, dear mother. It is a very difficult language; but you remember the miracle of the gift of tongues. The Archdeacon is to preach to-morrow. I am sorry to think we are to arrive at Gibraltar on a Sunday, as I shall not be able to go and explore.

"I shall take up the thread of my story before we reach Malta, so as to have a letter ready for you when the mail goes out....

"Good-night, dearest mother; may you enjoy much of the presence of the good Spirit.–Your ever loving son, Willie."

"Mediterranean Sea, S.S. Poonah, 28th Sept. 1864.–My ever dear Mother,–We have had a very calm and pleasant run from the Rock, but now we are being so roughly tossed by the blue waters of the Mediterranean, that it is with difficulty I can write.... The Archdeacon and captain arranged that worship should be in the evening on Sunday, as there was a great deal of noise and bustle on the morning of the Lord's day. In the evening, accordingly, everything was beautifully arranged. A large awning was spread over the quarter-deck, a box erected as a desk, having in front a large lantern, and the Archdeacon preached a very good sermon from those words, 'What think ye of Christ?'

"After service I had an interesting conversation with a young Dutch lady, who is evidently dying of consumption. She told me she had lived a very thoughtless life, but the glorious light of the Gospel seems to be dawning on her mind. I trust it is so, for her sun is fast setting.... I have begun Hindustani, and am kindly helped by Major R.

"The Lord bless and comfort my dear mother.–Your ever loving son, William."

"To the same.–Yesterday forenoon we arrived at Malta, and I had the pleasure of visiting Valetta, its principal city, which is composed chiefly of military forts of the greatest strength. I am told by military men on board that the island is considered impregnable. Passing along the main street of Valetta, we saw the Governor's palace. The women almost all wore black mantles over their hair, in some cases fastened with flowers. Every second person we met was a priest: there are 1600 in the capital alone. We visited the great Church of St. John's,–a truly magnificent building, so far as costly embellishments go; but it is florid, and not in harmony with the sacred purpose of the edifice. It reminded me of Notre Dame in Paris, but neither of these buildings please me so much as Te Duomo in Florence, of which you have a photograph. A host of importunate beggars besieged us as we entered St. John's,–arrant rogues they seemed, every one of them. The son of Louis Philippe was buried in this church, and over his tomb there is an exquisite piece of sculpture.

"We spent a very interesting afternoon with Mr. Gibb, who took us to see the depot of the British and Foreign Bible Society, the superintendent of which is an old soldier, a soldier of the cross, too, and of the right stamp for such a post. Four thousand Bibles were sold the year before last, and through his laborious exertions no fewer than twelve thousand were disposed of last year. There cannot but be fruit where God's word is sown, accompanied as the sowing is, by many an earnest prayer for the increase. Mr. G. next took us to see the Public Library of Valetta, which belonged originally to the knights of Malta, and in which I saw copies of the writings of the Fathers in Divinity. There is a university in Valetta, and a capital normal school, in which, in addition to a good education, the boys have lessons in shoemaking, printing, and carving....

"We had to leave the young Dutch lady at Malta, as she was too ill to stand a further voyage. I trust the Lord has begun a good work in her soul, and that Mr. W., who has promised to act as minister to her, may be the means of helping her heavenward. I am often with you in thought, dearest mother, and trust you are enjoying peace and happiness. Turn your heart to Jesus, as your flowers turn their heads to the sun, and let your language be,–

"'Sun of my soul, Thou Saviour dear,

It is not night if Thou be near;

Oh, may no earth-born cloud arise,

To hide Thee from Thy servant's eyes!"

–Your ever loving son, Willie.

Visiting Alexandria and Cairo, he writes of the interest with which he saw the classic remains in these cities, the palm trees, the camels, or ships of the desert, the crowded bazaars, and the many other characteristics of an eastern country. As a medical man he could not fail to notice the sad state of the eyes of many of the Egyptians. The whole voyage was full of novelty to him, and he tried, by minute descriptions of all he saw, to cheer his friends at home.

On the way up to Calcutta the vessel called at Madras. "I was one," writes Dr. Elmslie, "of a party who went on shore. We had but a short time to spend on land, so we had to be active. We first went to the Free Church Mission premises, which we found easily, owing to my recollection of the description given of them in the 'Free Church Missionary Record.' The Rev. Mr. Miller welcomed us most heartily. You may remember that he was a member of a literary society which met weekly in the College, of which Salmond and I were also members. He kindly showed us all the mission premises. We saw the various classes at work and were surprised at the extent of the students' scholarship. Everything is in first-rate order. We then drove on to see Mr. Paterson of the Medical Mission in Madras. We were fortunate in finding him at home, and both he and Mrs. Paterson were cordial in their welcome. Of course our whole conversation turned on medical missions, but it had to be short, as we were soon hurried off to our floating home."

Again he writes to his mother:–"S.S. Simla, 27th Oct. 1864.–My ever dear mother,–Hurrah! We are expected to reach Calcutta to-morrow forenoon. Since writing from the wild barren Aden I have feasted my eyes on the luxuriant verdure of Point de Galle, and breathed the 'spicy breezes' of which Reginald Heber sang, and now here I am drawing near to the field of my future labours.... During the voyage I have read a story called 'Trevelyan Hold,' in which you will find a not inaccurate description of my old master: 'Gentle Life;' 'Leisure hours in town,' do get, you would enjoy it, dear mother; 'True Yoke-fellows;' 'Life of Judson.' Pray, dear mother, that I may be like the noble Judson in all in which he resembled our blessed Saviour. 'Lady M. Wortley Montague's Letters' also have interested me much. You remember it was she who introduced 'Inoculation' from the east. Last, and best, I have read in my Greek Testament. The study of it has given me much enjoyment. Tell me everything when you write; the smallest details about yourself and all my friends, and dear Stewart, will be interesting to me. I hope you are not mourning over my absence, dear mother, but rather thanking God for sending me on the best and noblest of errands,–to win some hearts among the perishing thousands of Kashmir to the loving Saviour. Oh, dear mother, I long for the time when your heart and mine shall love Jesus purely and with all their strength. Pray very earnestly that our gracious Father may pour out upon us the sanctifying influences of His Spirit."

On the 28th October, about 3½ P.M., Dr. Elmslie landed in Calcutta, and in a letter to his friend, Mr. Ritchie, he refers to the ravages of the terrible cyclone, which just a short time before had swept over that region:–"It was a sad, sad sight, indeed, to see innumerable and unmistakeable proofs of the wild and irresistible fury of the recent cyclone, as we sailed up the Hoogley to the Indian metropolis. The whole surrounding country appeared to be in ruins. Houses were unroofed, others completely blown down, gigantic trees totally uprooted, and ships of the heaviest tonnage lay high-and-dry on the river's banks. By the liberality of the Europeans and Parsees, much of the consequent sufferings of the poorer classes have been relieved. The beautiful gardens at Calcutta are a total ruin. It will take a year at least to clear the ground of the trees that have been felled, and a hundred years to restore some of the most beautiful and valuable. How very friendly and unsectarian all evangelical denominations are here. All who profess to love and serve Christ seem to form one loving brotherhood, as it ought to be."

CHAPTER VI.
FROM CALCUTTA TO KASHMIR.

As the secretary of the Church Missionary Society was up country when Dr. Elmslie arrived in Calcutta, and none of the mission circle expected him so soon, he found no one awaiting him, and so for a time he went to a hotel. To his mother he writes:–"On Sunday we went to the Free Church Mission Church and heard a good Scotch sermon from the Rev. Mr. Don. After service I was introduced to Dr. Robson, who is Free Church Medical Missionary in Calcutta. Dr. and Mrs. Robson kindly asked us to spend the day at the Free Church Mission House, where we were introduced to the native Christian students, and to one who is not yet in Jesus, but who is groping his way to the Saviour out of heathen darkness. I accompanied Dr. Robson and two of the native Christian students to a small open meeting-house, situated in the native town. Here Dr. Robson read one or two chapters of the Holy Scriptures in Bengali to a crowd collected outside. Many listened with great attention as if pondering what they heard. After Dr. Robson had finished, one of the students addressed the assembly in Bengali on the words to which they had been listening. His address seemed earnest and eloquent. Questions were asked and objections raised, and, while the two students were busy in answering them, Dr. Robson was giving away religious tracts in English to those in the crowd who could read English. In the evening Dr. Robson took me to the Deistical Church, where thirty young men were gathered together. The services were begun by a hired musician, who played on a kind of native harp accompanying it with his voice. After this, one of the members read prayers, the congregation repeating them after him. Prayers ended, another of the company read what would correspond to a sermon, but which consisted of a description of the miseries of the pitiable sufferers in the recent cyclone, and a collection was made on their behalf. The members of this association are men thoroughly convinced of the absurdities of Hinduism, but to whom the pure and man-humbling doctrines of Christianity are unattractive and therefore rejected. Oh that the Lord would open their eyes that they may see!

"On Monday, the 31st, the Governor-General arrived in Calcutta, and Dr. F. came at once to see me, and I got a very cordial reception from him.

"Journal, Nov. 2, 1864.–Visited the Medical College and the Sailors' Home with Dr. F.

"Nov. 3.–Read in 1st Epistle of John (Greek); met several members of Church Missionary Society Committee, among whom was Colonel Bacon, who has been in Kashmir, and thus able to give me some information about the state of its people. My Lord, fit me for my work among them, I beseech thee!

Nov. 6th.–To-day read Duff's Missionary Addresses. Oh for his enthusiasm as a missionary! I do love Thee, my Saviour, and think I am quite willing to take up my cross and follow Thee, if only thou fulfil Thy considerate and loving promise to be ever with me! Thou wilt fulfil it, dear Jesus! Went with Dr. Cleghorn to church. How my heart warmed when I saw him and Mrs. C.,–children of God from dear old Scotland. We spent the evening in reading God's Word and in prayer. It was a feast to my soul. Oh! that our gracious God may richly answer the prayers we then offered up for an outpouring of blessing on missions everywhere, and especially on the Medical Mission to Kashmir. Oh! that He may qualify me for the difficult work which lies before me, granting me heavenly wisdom!

"Nov. 8th.–Read an interesting account of the analysis of some specimens of Cinchona Succirubra Bark, grown in Ootacamund. The result of the examination proves that this species of C. bark, cultivated in India, is far superior to the same species reared in South America. Six per cent. of alkaloid was obtained from it, of which three parts were quinine. Cultivation seems to have the desirable effect of increasing the percentage of quinine.

"Nov. 8th.–Was present at the Missionary Conference, which is composed of all the Evangelical Missionaries in Calcutta. They meet monthly in each other's houses.

"Dr. F. thinks I ought soon to set off for Lahore, where I shall enjoy the advantage of a large hospital, with opportunities of performing surgical operations, and where I shall be near the scene of my future labours. This arrangement commends itself to me, therefore please send letters to Post Office, Lahore.... Dear mother, you are often in the thoughts and ever in the prayers of your loving son, William."

Dr. Elmslie spent a fortnight of much enjoyment with Mr. Vaughan of the Church Missionary Society in Calcutta, and during this time visited all the important institutions of the city. He was much interested in the work carried on by Dr. Robson, then Medical Missionary in connection with the Free Church. Of a visit paid to one of Dr. Robson's patients, he writes thus:–"The young man was a student of the university. I asked if he had studied the Bible, but he confessed that for some time he had not given it serious consideration. He said he had found great difficulty in some portions of the New Testament. I asked him to specify one of those portions, and he immediately mentioned that passage where our Lord enumerates the marks of a disciple. I rashly hazarded an explanation, but it would have been wiser to have avowed its difficulty, as it was a subject I had not studied in its theological bearings. How much I have to learn! How much I need Heavenly wisdom! I meet many who are far better qualified than I for carrying on the glorious work of evangelisation. Nevertheless, I believe there is a niche for me, Father, even me! Thou knowest my heart, O Lord; and Thou knowest that I love Thee!

"Nov. 18.–Punctually at 7 A.M., the Hon. Mr. Muir, Dr. F., and Dr. C. rode into the compound of the Church Mission House to bid me farewell, and Dr. F. and Dr. C. accompanied me to the railway station. We crossed the Howrah by ferry, and at 8 o'clock I was hurried away from those dear Christian men who, during all my stay in Calcutta, were ever doing me kindnesses." ... And their kindnesses accompanied him; for "It was arranged," writes Dr. Cleghorn, "at a little conference in the Church Mission House, consisting of the Rev. Mr. Stewart, Dr. Farquhar, Dr. Cleghorn, and Dr. Elmslie, that Dr. Elmslie should start yesterday, the 18th. The route was prepared, and special friends were advised of his expected arrival. A little company of us here have more than once commended Dr. Elmslie to God in united prayer. We partook together of the communion on Sabbath, and at the railway station we felt it to be a solemn duty to wish this new labourer 'God-speed,' and to pray for large success. We have suggested that Dr. Elmslie should remain for several months at Lahore to learn the language, see the system of instruction at the Medical College, and perhaps find a native agent to accompany him to Kashmir when the season opens."

On the way to Lahore, he ever after remembered most gratefully the kindness received from all his brother missionaries. His next letter to his mother is dated Amritsar, Dec. 20, 1864, and in it he recounts some, out of many, of the interesting events of the journey:–

"Since I last wrote to you, my time has been spent in travelling nearly fourteen hundred miles, receiving hearty welcomes from dear Christians at every halting-place, visiting schools, dispensaries, hospitals, and prisons. One of the most interesting sights I saw in Calcutta was the examination of the college instituted by Dr. Duff, and the distribution of prizes to the most deserving students by Sir John Lawrence. It is the first time that a governor-general of India has done the like in a missionary institution, and we may hope that it betokens a new and brighter era in the history of the land. I believe there are scholars from this institution in almost every corner of Northern India, and that they are noted for their learning, and for their Christian character.

"My first resting-place on the journey from Calcutta to Amritsar was at Benares, the Rome or Mecca of India. It is the stronghold of Hinduism, and the most bigoted city in India, so that you can believe I saw much to sadden me, much, too, to make me glad; for missionary operations are being carried on most vigorously. I must tell you an incident which happened when I was visiting one of the great temples there. As the crowds of worshippers entered the temple, I saw that every one was furnished with flowers, some in garlands, others in bouquets, which were meant as offerings to the god, or to make them fit to appear before it. The room into which we were conducted was dimly lighted. I could only just perceive a block of wood or stone, shaped in the form of the head of a fish. It stood on the ground, enclosed by a little fence of stone work, and near it stood a priest, who, on seeing me, stepped forward, and threw a garland of flowers round my neck before I was aware. Fancy me decked as if ready to worship this contemptible deity! He,–this sensual-looking priest, implored me for money, which, however, I did not give.

"At Allahabad I spent some very happy days in the house of the Hon. Mr. Muir. I was asked to conduct a prayer-meeting among the soldiers, which I consented to do, but with very mixed feelings. I do desire to commend Christ by word as well as by deed, but I am such a poor speaker. However, I do not think this a sufficient reason for refusing, when offered the opportunity of speaking for the Lord. With God's help, I shall try to speak more for Him than I have ever yet done. I spent some pleasant days at Delhi, Umballa, and Jullunder, where I had the privilege of meeting Sir Herbert Edwards, who was staying with my kind host Mr. Elliott. Sir Herbert is a great friend to the Kashmir Medical Mission, and spoke freely of his views as to our policy there. His opinion corresponds with that of Mr. Clark. From Jullunder I went to Loodiana, and, along with the American missionary, Mr. Woodside, visited the Rajah of Kapurthāla, who seemed anxious about the real good of his people.... With all my heart wishing you and dear Stewart a very happy New Year,–Your own loving son, Willie."

"Amritsar Journal, Dec. 16, 1864.–Drove with Mr. W. to see the Mission School. On our way, ascended one of the very lofty minarets, from which we had a wonderfully extensive view of the city and its neighbourhood. The famous tank and splendid Golden Temple of the Sikhs lay at our feet. We visited the temple, but, before entering, we were requested to change our shoes for cloth slippers, as the cow is considered a sacred animal with the Sikhs. The temple is situated in the midst of the famous tank of Amritsar, and is approached by a pier paved with most beautiful marble. It is one sheet of gold and mirrors within. A man wearing a large crimson turban was seated in front of an immense cushion, on which lay the Sikh Bible, or Granth. Around this man several other priests were seated, and near them there were three musicians, who continued to play in a strange monotonous style.

"The offerings brought and laid before the Granth by the poor worshippers were not very munificent, consisting chiefly of flowers, or rice, or paise. The chief priest uncovered the book, and read a portion of it, not much to our edification.

"There are two sects of Sikhs, the followers of Namak, who was, considering his opportunities, an enlightened man, and a lover of peace; and the followers of Govind, who held that the Sikh religion should be promoted by the sword. His sword is kept in a separate temple....

"We next visited the Mission School, where I examined three of the classes, and found them very well grounded indeed.

"18th Dec.–Went to English Church, where Mr. Watkin preached from the words, "The Lord is at hand," an impressive sermon. Afterwards I enjoyed some sweet communion with God. In the evening Mr. and Mrs. C., Mr. R., and myself formed a little party for Bible reading, and had a very interesting conversation on Rom. iii.

"21st.–Hard at work at Hindustani. Read paper on Kashmir, kindly lent me by Mr. Clark. O Lord, how much he and I need Thy Holy Spirit to be infused as a spirit of wisdom and of strong faith.

"25th.–Partook of the Lord's Supper, and afresh dedicated myself to the Lord who died for me. Realised how unworthy I am, how imperfect my life is! O Lord, make Thine own child something like his Father; give me much more of the family likeness! Went in afternoon to native church, and heard Daud Singh, the native pastor, preach. The boys and girls from the orphanages formed the principal part of the congregation. The church is most suitably planned, so that heathen listeners may gather in the verandah, and hear the word of God.

"26th.–Studied hard all forenoon. Aid me, Lord!

"Mr. C. received peremptory orders from Jummoo to remove all his furniture from the bungalow in Srinagar, in which he had deposited it on his departure from the valley. This is trying and perplexing. I would refer it all to Thee, O Lord; for the matter is Thine, not mine. I am lamentably ignorant, but Thou art omniscient. At present the horizon looks black and lowering, but affairs committed to God's care cannot but go well in the end. Read Hügel's Travels in Kashmir.

"30th.–Went with Mr. C. and Mr. F. to have an interview with Sir E. Montgomery, who received us cordially, and made many inquiries respecting the various missions with which we are individually connected.... O Lord, make me a better servant and missionary! I mourn over my leanness: fill me with Thy Spirit, that I may bring forth fruit to Thy praise! Read Hügel.

"Jan. 1st.–Had some delightful hours alone with God. Oh, for a closer walk with my God and Saviour!

"3d.–Hindustani for three hours. Home letters at last. Dr. Burns Thomson's first Medical Missionary circular. May the Lord copiously bless it! Spent some hours in a native druggist's shop in the city, and learned a great deal about the medicines used by Hakims. While there, a funeral procession passed, followed by a number of women dressed in very coarse garments, and wailing bitterly. Am told their grief is not all genuine; some of them were paid mourners."

Dr. Elmslie reached Lahore on Jan. 18th, and wrote next day:–"Lahore, 19th Jan. 1865.–At Lahore at last, and hoping to have some earnest hard work before it is time to go to Kashmir. We are likely to meet with many difficulties in our missionary operations, but the Lord is on our side, and He will turn the hearts of those high in power, so that the good news of His dear Son may be told to the inhabitants of that lovely land. I had a brief interview with Mr. M‛Leod, the lieutenant-governor, to-day, and also visited Mr. Cooper, who was for some time British resident in Srinagar. He said he would readily give me letters of introduction to the leading men in Kashmir, if I were merely going there as a physician, unconnected with a Christian mission.

"Feb. 3d.–Have undertaken a class in Mr. Forman's school; got on pretty well, having studied carefully beforehand; first wrote out the lesson in Hindustani, and had it corrected by my Moonshee. The boys are so dirty. Dear mother, what would you think of them! yet they are often profusely decorated with ornaments of gold and silver.

"14th.–Your troublesome cough back again! I can't tell you how sorry I am for that. I am delighted to hear of J. W.'s success: he must press on, and make 'Excelsior' his motto. And is it true that my little name-daughter has been taken away to swell the numbers of the lambs in the fold above? I remember a sweet verse of a hymn which you may like to send her mother–

"'Ere sin could blight, or sorrow fade,

Death came with friendly care;

The opening bud to heaven conveyed,

And bade it blossom there.'

"I shall write to her mother, whose kindness to me I can never forget.... I am labouring hard at the language, and have a teacher–a Moonshee–for two hours daily. I teach for two hours in the Mission School, and sometimes spend as much as three hours in the Government Hospital, which I visit daily, in order to become familiar with Indian complaints. I meant to spin you a long yarn about the country and the people, but must defer till my next.–Your ever loving son, William."

"Lahore, Feb. 28th.–So thankful, my dearest mother, that you feel better. Summer is coming, with its genial sunshine and bright blue skies, and all the gladness which nature in our dear Scotland can display, and you must go to the country and see it all. I should like you to go to Ballater, and see the beautiful everlasting mountains I love so much. Yes, you will go and write and tell me all about them. How I long to see hills. This country of India is just a dead level,–as smooth as the table of your best room. When journeying from Calcutta I saw some hills, though very diminutive ones; my heart was gladdened within me, they reminded me so much of Deeside. The other day I read a good criticism of Enoch Arden, one of Tennyson's poems, which I read to you on the banks of the Fench, near Banchory, when you and I visited that lovely spot. How I delight in recalling those bright days in our past. If it please God, dearest mother, I hope we shall again visit the 'Falls,' and again speak together of God's wonderful goodness to us both. I shall soon see higher mountains than you or I have ever yet beheld. The great Himalayas, in the midst of which lies cradled my future home, or perhaps I should say my field of work. I know you would like to read about it. The books which I find give one the most interesting information are, Jacquemont's Travels, Moorcroft's, and Vigne's ditto. If God spare me I purpose writing a book more comprehensive than any of them, as I shall have valuable opportunities for gathering information if spared to remain for a sufficient length of time in the valley.... Let me have much of your earnest prayers; I shall need them and expect them. By praying, dear mother, you will immeasurably help me, even more than if you were travelling with me over these strange lands. How the people of this dark land need the gospel, which alone can elevate and purify them! You can form no idea of their wickedness, but it corroborates the description given by St. Paul in Romans i. Much is being done for them, both by Government and by Missionaries, but so deep-seated is the evil, that you see as yet but little resulting from those efforts,–the evil seems to absorb the good just as a burning sandy waste absorbs the rain which falls on it. There are no fewer than 604 female schools in the Punjaub, but what are they among the millions? and if taught by heathen teachers, what result can we look for? You would laugh many a time, dear mother, at the significant looks and smiles of my little brown-faced charge at the Mission School, when I attempt to launch out, and make blunders in the language in so doing. I never mind, but hold on my way, for some direct mission work I must do, however feebly. It is encouraging to me that those signals of my mistakes are becoming fewer and fewer. When I go to Kashmir I shall have a new language to learn, and it will be much more difficult to acquire, because there are no grammars nor dictionaries of Kashmiri. Those I must make for myself, and have already done something towards this work.

"I forgot to recommend to you a delightful book, written by that good doctor in Edinburgh, George Wilson; it is called 'Counsels of an Invalid.' Get it if you can.... My warmest love to you, dearest mother."

"April 5, 1865.–So –– is after the loaves and fishes, is he? Tell him he will never cease to repent it if he draw back from the service of the Lord, to which he has devoted himself many times. I trust the Lord may show him that it is a glorious service, from which none should swerve. Poor R. B., his race has soon been run, but today he is reaping the inexpressible joy of being saved by Jesus. It is this assurance which makes life on earth bearable. It is the bright hope of this that has sustained me up to this time. It is very remarkable that every letter from home has told me of some well-known friend's death; this makes me anxious, but, as you say, we are each one in God's hands, and this thought should allay our fears, and calm the disturbed mind. 'I will never leave thee, nor forsake thee.' I feel sorry and astonished to hear that Mrs. –– is so proud. But, dear mother, we are all frail in some way. Oh, to be really like Jesus! in humility and in everything else in which it is possible for us to resemble Him. To strive after this is really our life-work.

"It was resolved at a harmonious meeting of the committee, which met on Friday, that I should start for Kashmir on April 11th, and travel by Rawal Pindee and Murree. A proposition was made that I should go along with the Bishop of Calcutta, who is to spend a month in the valley for the benefit of his health, but I was opposed to this plan, for this reason, that the natives look on him as a great public functionary, in short, as one of the highest in the Government; and I fear, if I were to accompany him, that the natives of Kashmir would consider me too a servant of Government, and so my mission would be frustrated. The committee agreed with me. My policy in Kashmir is to be one of peace.

"Journal, April 20th.–Travelled from Lahore to Rawal Pindee in a Government gāri, a curious lumbering conveyance, drawn by the most wretched and stubborn of horses. From Rawal Pindee partly by hill-cart, and partly by mule. The hill-cart certainly excels the gāri in speed if not in comfort. It is something like an Irish car on two high wheels, and although the road to Murree is all more or less steep, the horses seemed almost to fly along the way. It is curious to find one's self mounting terrace after terrace of the steep mountain side, and to look down on the great landscape of the plains you have left. Rhododendrons, honeysuckle, clematis, geraniums, acacias on every side, mingling with the grand Alpine firs. Murree itself is a Swiss-like station, every house built in some cleft of the mountain side; from it you see the everlasting snows not very far off.

"21st.–Left Murree with the Rev. Mr. Handcock of Peshawar. After ten miles ride reached Dawal about midnight.

"22d.–From Dawal to Kohalla; a beautiful ride all down mountain side; passed through quantity of snow. Saw tiny yellow Potentilla Tormentilla, also the Pteris Quadrifolia, and Primula Vulgaris; very few birds to be seen among the pines which clothe those mountains through which we passed; the odour of the pines most charming. Half way to Kohalla saw the river Jhelum wending its way from Kashmir. Arriving at Kohalla, found the rest-bungalow preoccupied. Dined under a tree. Afterwards Qadir Bakhsh addressed the coolies and people from the village. One of the men was almost totally blind from cicatrices on the cornea; an artificial pupil would have done wonders for him.

"April 24th.–After seeing most of our baggage off on coolies' backs we crossed the rapidly flowing Jhelum in a ferry-boat, the oarmen of which seemed wonderfully dexterous. In climbing the rugged road to Dhunna had many a fall, and arrived in a bruised and tired condition, but said that I should be glad to see any of the sick people in the village if they came after breakfast. It was now 11 A.M., and an hour after, a large company had assembled; some sixteen of whom became my patients."

In a communication to us, written as he passed up country, it came out on every page how much Dr. Elmslie magnified his office as a Medical Missionary. From the time he left England till now, when he enters Kashmir, he never let slip an opportunity of gathering or giving information about Medical Missions, and anything hopeful regarding their extension gladdened his heart. "When at Jullunder, on my way to Lahore, I met with the Rev. Mr. Woodside of the American Presbyterian Mission, whose sphere of labour is Kapurthala. You are perhaps aware that the Rajah of Kapurthala is favourably disposed to Christianity. He contributes very largely to missionary objects, and has built a handsome church entirely at his own expense. His Highness has also built a large and commodious house for a Medical Missionary. I trust a suitable agent will soon be appointed to this place. The sphere is an excellent one. As David (Young) is nearly finished, I have asked Mr. W. to write to him. At Allahabad I met the Rev. Mr. Williamson, Presbyterian Chaplain in one of Her Majesty's regiments, now serving in India. He belongs to the Established Church of Scotland. But there is little or nothing of the 'Isms' in India. Love to the Saviour is the shibboleth. Mr. Williamson became so full of Medical Missions that he resolved to write to Dr. Norman M‛Leod about having a Medical Missionary sent to the Established Church Mission at Sealkote." When Dr. Elmslie returned to Scotland in 1870, he had the joy of meeting for an hour or so, in Edinburgh, a young Medical Missionary–Dr. Hutchison–just starting for Sealkote.

CHAPTER VII.
KASHMIR–ITS PEOPLE, ETC.

It may be well to precede Dr. Elmslie into the valley that is to be the principal scene of his future labours, to get a glimpse of the country, the people, the Government, &c., that we may the more intelligently accompany him in his work.

The valley of Kashmir is situated to the north of the Punjaub, between north latitudes 33° and 35°, and east longitudes 74° and 76°. Its height above the level of the sea is about 5350 feet. The range of mountains to the south of this far-famed valley, and separating it from the Punjaub, is called the Pir Panjal, the average height of which, above the level of the sea, is about 12,000 feet. The two main passes in this mountain range are the Banihal, at an elevation of 9200 feet, and the Pir Panjal at a height of 11,400 feet. The valley itself, which is very flat and fertile, is about 50 miles in length and 20 in breadth. Through the middle of the valley flows the broad bosomed Jhelum in a westerly direction. On both banks of this river, and equally distant from either end of the valley, stands Kashmir or Srinagar, the capital of the country. Although Srinagar, as a city, is possessed of uncommonly great facilities for excellent sanitation in a magnificent river and numerous canals, it is nevertheless extremely filthy.

The climate of the valley of Kashmir is characterised by great salubrity. From the middle of June till the middle of August, the heat in the valley is sometimes a little disagreeable. The nights, however, are always cool and pleasant. The temperature is sometimes as high as 90° indoors during the time specified.

The total population of the valley, excluding that of any of the surrounding countries, and the inhabitants of the mountains is 402,700.

In Kashmir there are 29,430 shawl weavers.

"The clothing of the Kashmiris, both men and women, consists essentially of one long loose woollen garment, which extends from the neck to the ankles, and is not very unlike a woollen night-gown. So far as this article of clothing is concerned, men and women are dressed exactly alike. The men, however, frequently wear a kamarband round their waists when they have a journey to make, or some piece of work to perform which requires more or less of activity. The sleeves of the garment being wide and capacious, the wearer can with the greatest facility take his or her arms out of them, and place them alongside the body, in immediate contact with the bare skin....

"The houses of the Kashmiris are not at all calculated to afford efficient shelter to their occupants against the inclemency of the weather in winter, being for the most part built of wood, and being besides generally in the most rickety and tumble-down condition imaginable. So far as the writer is aware, they are entirely destitute of fireplaces, and when a fire is kindled inside one of them, the smoke must find a way of escape, either by the door or the window, which is never of glass, but, as a rule, of trellis work, which is often very pretty, and for which Kashmir is justly famous.

"Coal being unknown in the valley, wood is the material generally employed as fuel. The very poorest of the people, however, collect in the summer and autumn the ordure of cattle, which they mix with straw and then form into round cakes, which they dry in the sun's rays and carefully preserve against the coming winter....

"The Kashmiris being extremely poor and inactive, and the climate at different seasons of the year being unpleasantly and bitterly cold, the inhabitants of the Fair Valley are in the habit of carrying about with them, wherever they go, earthenware pots, which they have denominated kangris. These kangris or portable braziers are made of clay of varying fineness, and are usually covered with wicker-work, more or less ornamented according to the price of the article. Men and women, young and old, rich and poor, Hindoo and Mussulman, all have their kangri, and all consider it indispensable in the cold season. The fuel consumed in the kangri is charcoal, and the heat evolved is often considerable....

"When the weather is extremely cold, it is customary for both men and women, while walking about out of doors, to carry the kangri under their loose woollen gowns, and in close proximity with the bare skin, the effect of which is often to produce a kind of cancer on those parts of the body most frequently subjected to this kind of irritation."

In the "Christian Intelligencer" for March 1871, there is an anonymous paper of much beauty and power from which the following particulars are gleaned:–"Let me speak first of the beauties and excellencies of the valley, and let me afterwards tell why, notwithstanding all these, Kashmir has left a sad picture on my mind. First–The country itself. Where, taking it as a whole, is anything more beautiful? I do not mean to say, that after all one has heard of it, there is not a shade of disappointment as one enters the valley by the Murree route; for it is not until you are fairly in the midst of the valley that you appreciate its beauty. To say that it is like an emerald set in silver, is to give but the faintest idea of the exquisite beauty of that bright green plain, with its broad stream, the Jhelum, running through it, and encircled on every side by snow-capped hills. Beautiful as a whole, it is far more so in its details. Its great swelling quiet river rippling down from one end to the other; its glittering lakes overshadowed by giant rocks of every shape and shade; its grand groves of chinar (the grandest tree I have ever seen, its colouring so full of contrast, its shade so perfect, its size almost incredible); its orchards of fragrant fruit; its numberless mountain streams and rushing brooks (for it is indeed a land of fountains and streams of water); its quaint picturesque villages, with their houses almost like the fanciful Dutch houses of our children's toys; its massive ruins carrying one back into another world, and about which the English visitor is almost inclined to endorse the superstition of the natives,–that they were not built by men, but by some race of giants who lodged those great stones in the places from which man has never been able to remove them,–all these make its beauty as varied as striking; such a variety as perhaps is seen nowhere else in the world. And then, whichever way you branch out from the central valley up its smaller vales, there is still the same or even greater beauty. Rushing rivers with snow cold water flinging themselves over rocks and stones; little villages hid under the shade of towering walnut trees; and, as you get further up, peaks reaching up to heaven, glaciers, from under which bellow forth dark dazzling streams. Or, if we climb the hills round the valley, we come upon beautiful murgs, as they are called, plains on the tops of hills, covered with wild flowers, among which you may wade above your knees and in ten minutes gather such a variety, as your two hands cannot clasp,–forget-me-not, Canterbury bells, buttercups, columbine, and a hundred other dear old English friends,–while round the edge of these bright green meadows rise up the dark green deodars. Or we go up bleaker hills, and come upon great mountain lakes (tarns we should call them in Yorkshire), so cold, so solitary, so awing.

"But there are other things in Kashmir to please besides the scenery. The people are certainly a peculiarly fine race. The men strong and handsome, capable of carrying with ease a maund, or even more, for fifteen miles over steep difficult hills, with such sturdy limbs as contrast almost ridiculously with the long thin tight-trousered legs of the Sikh soldiery. They really are, too, a most ingenious and clever and tasteful people. This is evident not merely from their exquisite shawls, but from the good taste of their papier-maché, and silver work, and jewellery, so far superior, not merely in execution, but in design and taste, to that of their Hindustanee neighbours. The women, perhaps, owe most of the fame of their beauty to their contrast with the expressionless faces of Hindustanee women; but still no one can go into Kashmir without seeing some few faces that strike him as very fine, not merely from the fresh colour and animated expression, but from the real excellency of the features. The climate, too, is unquestionably very delightful.... I doubt whether an English summer is, on the whole, so equable and pleasant....

"Lastly, the produce of the country is almost everything that heart could wish. As regards grain, it is especially a rice-growing country, but really almost every kind of grain may be and is grown there. No greater testimony to the extreme fertility of the country can be given than the fact that, notwithstanding the terrible extortion and oppression to which the people are subject, the agricultural part of the population is well clothed, and generally far from lean. But, of course, what strikes a visitor is not the grain, but the fruit, and of this there is the greatest variety and abundance....

"But there is a great 'but' to all these which spoils everything. With all this light there is a deep shadow. And why should I stop and hesitate to mention and to repeat that which comes up first into my mind–the disgraceful oppression of the people. Yes, disgraceful to us English, for we sold, literally sold, the country into the hands of its present possessors; and selling it, sold with it the flesh and blood of thousands of our fellow creatures,–sold them into a perpetual slavery. Disgraceful, too, that it should lie under the shadow of our well-ruled provinces, and yet be so ground down; that the ruler should be a tributary of ours, and yet be allowed so to tyrannize.

"It is impossible that this oppression can cease so long as the Maharajah keeps up an army so utterly disproportionate to the size of his country. He must grind the faces of the poor to sustain such a large permanent force. That the army is ill-paid, discontented, inefficient, none can doubt, but still the men must have something given them to keep them in service.... This year, at a review which was on a Sunday, in honour of Sir H. Durand, the powder flask of one man blew up while a regiment was formed in square, and the explosion passed from man to man until more than eighty were prostrate. The army may do very well to bully the Kashmiri, or plunder the weak native states around, but it would never even think of standing before a British force....

"But what is this oppression that I have spoken of? It is this–that at one swoop half of every man's produce goes into the Government treasury. Half of everything, not merely of his grain, but even of the produce of his cattle, or whatever he has; so that from each cow he must give every second year a calf to Government, and from every half dozen of his chickens three go to the all-devouring sirkar. More than this even, his very fruit trees are watched by Government and half taken for the Maharajah. A poor Kashmiri can call nothing his own. But, in reality, it is not only half a man loses, for at least another quarter is taken by the rapacious government officials who have to collect the nominal half. Shakdars, Kárdárs, Ziladárs, soldiers, and others, all come in for their share. The wonder is, how the people exist at all. Of course I am a credulous missionary, and believed every story I heard, but I should like to find the man in Kashmir who could deny these facts. But it is not only the poor peasants who suffer; perhaps the condition of the shawl weavers is worse still. They are all the servants of the Government, which supplies them with material, and doles out to them a scanty pittance of two annas a day, and then sells them the rice (which it has taken from the peasants) at any price which it chooses to set upon it. These shawl weavers are a lean wan race, recognisable at once from their sallow complexion, thin cheeks and desponding look. Of course the idea at once suggests itself, why do not all the people run away and come into India? But if they had the chance, can you wonder at their almost preferring to starve in their own home paradise rather than live in the furnace of India? Yet numbers of Kashmiris do prefer India to their own lovely land, simply because in India every man can live and be his own master, whatever else he has to put up with. But few are the happy men who can get away. A few are allowed to go into India, if they leave their wives and families behind as a guarantee for their speedy return, but only a few. As I was leaving Kashmir, two or three of these shawl weavers smuggled themselves out of the country as my coolies. I knew they must be shawl weavers from their pinched faces, and so did the soldiers stationed at the top of the Pir Panjal to prevent people escaping into India, and the guard would have stopped them, but that they had no coolies to give me instead of them to carry my loads.[2] ... Of course, this oppression gives the whole country a look of poverty. No one can help being struck as he enters Srinagar by the dilapidated look of the place.... There is no respectable quarter, not a single good street; scarcely even a single respectable bazaar, considering the size of the place. And what is true of Srinagar is more than true of all the smaller towns. They are ruinous in the extreme.

"In the country hundreds of acres of land are mere swamp, or almost unused pasture ground that might smile with corn. Everywhere the fruits are degenerating, because the people don't care to cultivate that of which they obtain so little; and an old Kashmiri told me that he could recollect the day when there were eighteen different kinds of grapes, but now most of them have died out, and there are only four or five kinds to be had in the whole valley....

"But there are other things in Kashmir which most terribly detract from its pleasure as a place of residence. The dirt is beyond description. Who can tell what Kashmir smells are? Not the odours of roses, such as one has expected to fill the air; but, oh! such, that the dirtiest of London courts is sweeter than the cleanest of Kashmir villages. The clothes, too, of the people are filthy; not that the filth shows much, for all their garments are of grey wool, which is a most perfect concealer of dirt; but not a few of their diseases are the result of their uncleanliness, and how often I have almost shrunk away from them, as, in my dispensary, while I have been examining a patient, I have seen the lice crawling on his clothes and his fleas skipping over to me. Of course, if you can avoid all intercourse with the natives, then dirt is not such a continual source of annoyance, but to us it was a daily trouble. But yet there is one thing which makes a Christian man far more sad than those things I have spoken of, and that is the frightful immorality of the people, and the even less excusable wickedness of our countrymen. It may be that the latter is not so bad as it was–that vice is less open and shameless than it was a few years ago–but it is so open and so bad that no one need be afraid to speak of it. It is a fact that none can conceal, that numbers of young men only know Kashmir as the place where they can gratify every unhallowed passion; and an army surgeon, high in the service, told me that numbers of young officers went up every year to Kashmir in perfect health, and, after six months in its splendid climate, came down into India only to be invalided home, and many to suffer more or less for life from their own wicked folly.... Well might I be taunted, as I was, when I tried to preach the gospel in villages far distant from the capital, with the unblushing wickedness of my own countrymen. How steeped the people themselves are in sin none can tell but those who have seen them as I have done. How one corroding sin seems to be eating out the vitals of all classes, casual visitors to the valley would perhaps scarcely guess. They may say, as every one does, that there are no such liars and deceivers in the world, as in Kashmir; no, not even in India; but the utterly rotten state of social life they will probably have little idea of.

"But let me leave this and just say a few closing words as to mission work. It seems to me that the Church Missionary Society have most wisely associated themselves with the Punjaub Medical Missionary Society in sending a medical man as missionary to this difficult and delicate field of labour."...

The Church Missionary Intelligencer for 1st August 1866 gives the following brief notice of what had been attempted in the way of missionary effort amongst the truly necessitous Kashmiris, up to the season that preceded Dr. Elmslie's arrival:–

"The two first missionaries of the Church Missionary Society by whom the valley was visited, the Rev. W. Smith of Benares, and the Rev. R. Clark of Peshawur, reached Kashmir in the spring of 1863. At the end of the summer Mr. Smith returned to his station at Benares, and Mr. Clark, after an ineffectual attempt to remain in the valley during the winter, was compelled, by the opposition of the authorities, to return to the plains.

"In the month of April 1864, Mr. Clark, accompanied by Mrs. Clark, and having with him some reliable native assistants, re-entered the valley, having secured beforehand a house which he had rented from the proprietor. On their arrival at Srinagar they were at once mobbed by a crowd of a thousand people, who threatened to set the house on fire, some of them coming within the compound and throwing stones. Further disturbances being threatened, a French gentleman resident in the city, accompanied by two of his friends, waited on the authorities, and remonstrated with them on their permitting such tumultuous proceedings, not only insulting to the missionary, but endangering his personal safety and that of his family. The mob-greetings were accordingly stayed, but other means were adopted of obstructing the missionary in his work, in the hope that, becoming discouraged, he might abandon it, and, retiring from the valley, allow all things to fall back into that condition of spiritual death in which they had for ages lain. Men were stationed on the bridge close to his door, to prevent any one from coming to visit him, or, if they persevered, to report their names to the Wuzeer. His servants could not succeed in purchasing the mere necessaries of life, and M. Gosselin's servant had to be sent to the other end of the city to buy àtà for them. So determined were the authorities to prevent all intercourse between the missionary and the inhabitants, that when, on the occasion of a large fire, in which many poor people lost their all, a little sum was collected and distributed among them, they were compelled to refund it, because the native Christians, with Mr. Clark, had contributed to it.

"Meanwhile, although in the presence of so great irritation public preaching was not attempted, yet inquirers came in, some of them entreating that they might be baptized at once. One of them was beaten by his master, who threatened to kill him if he persisted in frequenting the missionary's house. This young man, Husu Shah, during the previous year had been imprisoned for the same offence, having been forcibly taken out of Mr. Clark's house under the written orders of the authorities. During the time of his imprisonment he had been repeatedly beaten, and had logs of wood tied to his feet.

"At length, at the suggestion of the British Resident, Mr. Clark offered to vacate the house within the city, provided suitable accommodation was provided for him outside the city, near the Shekh Bágh. And yet, while thus in every way consistent with his duty, endeavouring to conciliate, he had the pain of learning that Husu Shah was again imprisoned. They offered him, indeed, his liberty, on the understanding that he would not again visit the Christian missionary, nor try to escape to the Punjaub; but, on his refusal, the logs of wood were again fastened to his feet. Through the interference of the British Resident, he was, after some days, liberated, and his first act was to revisit the missionary."

Although the Resident, Mr. Cooper, wrote to the Maharajah, asking that Mr. Clark might be allowed to remain, he was "inexorable, and as he had by treaty the right to insist on the withdrawal of Europeans from the valley during the winter season, he claimed to exercise it in relation to Mr. Clark, who was thus compelled to return to the Punjaub."

One of the reasons urged by the Resident for the extension to Mr. Clark of the privilege of remaining in the valley, is interesting:–"His Highness is not perhaps aware that the wife of Mr. Clark is an accomplished physician, and has devoted her life, her strength, and her talents to the relief of the sick and the suffering. I suggest, therefore, my dear friends (the Diwans), that you represent to his Highness that while he is consulting the religious feelings of his Srinagar subjects, and perhaps the general peace, in maintaining, as long as may be necessary to his Highness, the principle or custom that Europeans should not be allowed to reside in the city without express permission of the Government, his Highness would be inflicting a real injury on his people, if he withheld his permission from Mr. Clark and his family to continue to reside during the cold weather, because the humane exertions of the lady have already been attended with wide benefit and comfort to the Maharajah's people." The lady, who still seeks to improve her medical knowledge, would not, in 1864, have endorsed the compliment that she was an "accomplished physician," but she may take the comfort of knowing that her medical services were useful and much appreciated. It gives us peculiar pleasure to record this, for the encouragement of female medical missionaries. Her husband, writing to Mr. Wm. Coldstream from Srinagar, in May 1864, informs him that "Mrs. Clark has begun a dispensary, which is crowded daily, and takes up daily three hours of her time in hard work. To-day there were eighty-four (?) cases,–one man came twelve miles from a village, and a poor woman, thought to be dying, having recovered, the dispensary stands high in public estimation. The native apothecary, who is supposed to cure all the Maharajah's soldiers at one pice a-head daily (when the M. H. is here, for they have no medical attendance at other times), came to-day, and wants to send his son for instruction. All this will do good." But it is time to accompany Dr. Elmslie in his interesting work.

[2] Coolies are used everywhere, for there is not such a thing as a road, nor a cart in the whole of Kashmir, though in the valley itself it would be the easiest thing to make good and permanent roads. The country is level, and kunkur abundant.

CHAPTER VIII.
WORK IN KASHMIR.

"On the 12th April," writes Dr. Elmslie, "I left Lahore for Kashmir, the future scene of my medical missionary labours.... Through the kindness of the Rev. R. Clark of Amritsar, two of the most promising of the boys belonging to the Missionary Orphanage are to accompany me as assistants. The Rev. Messrs. Forman and Newton of Lahore have very obligingly transferred to K. M. M. for the season, one of their catechists. He is a Kashmiri by birth, and, on that very account, suitable for the work in which we are to be engaged. He is able to speak fluently the language of the valley, and is intimately acquainted with the habits and character of the people. (See Woodcut.)

QADIR BAKHSH.
The Kashmiri Catechist.

"24th April.–To-day we crossed the Jhelum, and entered the territories of the Maharajah of Kashmir and Jummoo, and made our way to Dhanna, our halting-place for the day, by a very rough path. From what had befallen the Rev. Messrs. Smith and Clark on previous years here, I fully expected my difficulties to begin. But in this I was most agreeably disappointed, for I found the Maharajah's servants both civil and obliging. On my arrival, I had intimated to the principal man of the village that as I was a doctor, I would be happy to see and treat all the sick people, whom he might bring to me after breakfast, from Dhanna and its neighbourhood. In a very short time, sixteen patients were collected outside the rude and dirty bungalow where we were lodging. After breakfast, Qadir Bakhsh, the catechist, having congregated the sick, and the coolies who had carried our baggage from Kohalla, read to them a suitable portion of Scripture, and addressed them from it in a plain, easy, and intelligible style, quite level to the capacities of these ignorant people. The little group listened to the words of divine truth with great interest and attention. The service was closed with prayer. Our small supply of medicines and instruments having been laid out, the sick were brought out one by one and examined. One case, of a very trifling nature in itself, is worthy of a passing notice, because the relief afforded by surgery was immediate, and duly appreciated. The case was one of excessive elongation of the uvula, which caused a most troublesome cough, and compelled the man every now and then to perform the act of swallowing. The lengthened member was shortened with ease, the cough ceased, and the act of deglutition became less frequent. The patient took his leave with many expressions of gratitude.

"25th April.–This morning early we packed up, and set out for Maira, the next resting-place. We had no difficulty with coolies, although the number required was considerable. About 9 A.M. we reached our destination, and resolved to breakfast in Maira, and then to push on to the next village. Qadir, the catechist, somewhat hastily proceeded to address a small group of natives whom he happened to find congregated together. He had not proceeded far in his remarks, when the Tekeedar of the village told him he must stop immediately, which Qadir had the good sense to do. I am fully persuaded that if the people and the Maharajah's servants had been aware that the sahib was a doctor, and would give them both advice and medicine gratuitously, we should have had no veto put upon our evangelistic work. I learned a lesson by this incident by which I intend to profit. After breakfast we had a small reception of patients, when words about the love of God in Jesus were spoken to the patients individually, and those who were able to read got religious tracts and copies of the Gospels. The moonshee of the place told us he had learned to read and write in a neighbouring school, where he said there were as many as two hundred scholars. This high number of pupils is scarcely credible. At 5 P.M. we arrived at Chekar, somewhat fatigued with the two marches of the day. The first thing I did was to summon the chief man of the village, and to tell him how many coolies I should require next morning,–generally about forty,–and collect all the sick of the place and vicinity in the compound of the rude bungalow next morning.

"26th April.–To-day, after seeing twelve sick persons, we departed for Hatti, which is the next resting-place on the way. Arrived late in the evening.

"27th April.–On getting up this morning, and going outside my tent, I found a number of sick persons sitting on the ground, affected with various maladies. Before giving advice or medicine, Qadir, according to custom, addressed them from a part of God's Word. The attention was marked, and every now and then one here and another there in the interesting company would exclaim, 'Durust,' 'Sach bal.' May God, by His quickening Spirit, vitalise the seed sown for His own glory's sake. Arrived very late at Chikote, but in time to see the Tekeedar, and to give him the usual orders about coolies and the sick.

"28th April.–At the usual reception of patients to-day, one old man, labouring under an affection of the stomach, presented us with a quantity of walnuts,–a present of no great value, but nevertheless indicative of grateful feelings towards the doctor.

"29th April.–Left Chikote this morning about 5 A.M. On the way met a man who inquired very particularly if I was the doctor, as he had heard there was one coming, and he very much wanted to consult him about his little son. The boy happened to be affected with a well-known cutaneous disease, for which I strongly recommended soap and water. From what I have already seen of the people of Kashmir, poverty and dirt are the two great enemies I shall have to contend with as a doctor amongst them. On arriving at Uri, pitched my tent under some apricot trees near to a shady chinar. We soon had a visit from Juliar Khan, the Namah of the district of Uri. He came to consult me about his eyes, and another disease of which he had been ill for a long time. Advice and medicine were given him. The Tekeedar of Uri having also presented himself as a patient, received appropriate remedies, and was requested to give intimation of our readiness to see the sick of the village and neighbourhood.

"30th April, Uri, Sunday.–Got up very early this morning, and on going outside the tent found a large company assembled under the surrounding apricot trees. We soon had the small deal table and chair with the medicines and instruments placed in a convenient spot, and the sick and their friends were arranged all round. Everything being ready, Qadir, the catechist, read the third chapter of John's Gospel, and showed the necessity and nature of the new birth. The people as usual were most attentive, and listened with manifest pleasure to many of Qadir's remarks. After prayer, the sick were examined and treated as well as our present circumstances would permit. Among the fifty sick persons, who consisted of men, women, and children, there was an old Mullah, or Mussulman Priest, who, on being asked if he possessed a copy of the Koran, replied in the negative. I said, I suppose if you had the Koran you could read it. 'Oh, no,' he said, 'I not able to read at all.' I could not help saying to the old man, whose hair was like snow, and whom in my heart of hearts I pitied, How can you be a Mullah if you are totally unable to read? I received no reply. It was not a little amusing to watch the countenances of the listeners, who first smiled, then looked at each other, nodded, laughed, and then exclaimed, 'Bas,'–enough. Such priest, such people. I have already been struck with the fewness of those who are able to read. How are these poor people, who are dying for lack of the knowledge of the Saviour, to be fitted to read His Holy Word? Juliar Khan, our friend of yesterday, came to pay his respects and to say that he felt better from the remedies which were given him. After breakfast we assembled for family worship, and seeing Juliar Khan with a few of his followers sitting under an adjacent chinar, I sent him my salam, to say I should be most happy if he would join us in the worship of God. No sooner did he receive the message than he rose and came to us, accompanied by nearly all his retainers. I read the fourth chapter of John's Gospel, to which he paid the greatest attention; after which, Qadir concluded the services with prayer. We then had some little conversation on the Koran and the Gospel, but not being very communicative, he soon took his departure, again expressing his gratitude for the advice and medicine which he had received the day before. Lord, fructify the seed sown for Thine own glory's sake. The Maharajah's officials very civil and obliging.

"1st May.–Road still lies along the Jhelum, and is beautifully wooded. Among the trees I passed I recognised the peach, fig, and fir, and, twining amongst these, the vine. The beautiful red flower of the pomegranate delights one's eye at every turn, and the rose trees are budding into beauty. Passed a lime-kiln at work to-day, and behind a large ledge of rock I came upon a Fakir: There he sat with his back to the road, covered with rags, thereby meaning to show his indifference to this world. Poor fellow! he has discovered part of the truth,–that this fleeting world cannot satisfy, but he does not know the way whereby alone his soul can find satisfaction and be made perfectly happy the while, enjoying the present world according to the mind of God, who has filled the earth with so much that is lovely and loveable. Came to a dilapidated Hindu temple. A flight of steps led up to a large gateway. In the centre of the inner court saw the shrine, which was also approached by a flight of steps. The stones are of immense size and granitic. The priest forbade me to enter, so I stood at the door, and heard the monotonous voice of the man who was performing service. He concluded by blowing into a large univalve shell, producing a sound exactly like that of a trumpet. I was reminded of Elijah and the false prophet on Carmel.

"May 2d.–The scenery becomes more and more lovely as you near Baramula; the Jhelum, which you have known hitherto as a boisterous rapidly flowing river, is here gentle and placid. Poplar and willow trees abound, and the very mountains are richly wooded, reminding one of the Trossachs near Loch Lomond. The system of irrigation carried on here seems to be first rate. Before reaching Baramula a steep hill has to be climbed; it bears marks of the work of water; the different strata of sandstone of which it is composed vary in degrees of coarseness, and there are many water-polished pebbles to be seen. As you reach the summit, suddenly the far-famed valley of Kashmir bursts upon your view. I thought of Moses at Pisgah getting his view of the promised land. There lay the valley, bathed in sunshine,–the full-bosomed and now gently-flowing Jhelum meandering through its midst, and its lofty guardians, the snow-capped Himalayas, towering around. I gazed long on this wonderful scene, and with David praised the Lord for the excellent beauty of His works. I earnestly prayed that His rich and effectual blessing might rest on the work I was about to begin.

"3rd May.–Reached Nowshera at 11 A.M., and after bathing, proceeded to treat the sick who had been collected by the Moonshee, who informed me he was the only adult in the village who could read, and that he had opened a school and had at present six scholars. I gave him a copy of the New Testament in Hindu, and promised to give him a present on my return to Nowshera if he should satisfy me he had carefully read and studied the book. How very important it is to influence for good those who are, like this young man, the only channels of learning to the people. As usual the coolies and sick having been placed near each other, Qadir proceeded to address them, after which the coolies received their pay and were allowed to depart. Thirty-six were then seen and treated.

"4th May.–To-day we sailed in sight of Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. When about three miles from the city we halted to breakfast. While seated at my morning meal I observed two women pass me carrying baskets on their heads full of provisions for the market. Shortly after they had passed, my attention was arrested by cries in the direction in which they had gone, and on looking round, observed two men busy rifling the women's baskets. I took these men for servants of the Maharajah's, but discovered afterwards that they were not. On landing in Srinagar my first business was to find a house suitable for my work. To be so, it must be situated near the city. I learned that the bungalows belonging to the Maharajah, and which he assigns to the Europeans visiting the valley, were either already occupied or reserved, at least those nearest the city. I had to go elsewhere therefore, and was very fortunate in getting part of a bungalow quite close to the uppermost bridge of the city. For the scanty and rude accommodation I had to pay twenty rupees a month, an exorbitant rent in Kashmir. The accommodation consisted of one large room, which served for drawing-room, dining-room, sitting-room, bed-room, &c., three verandahs, and four very small closets situated round it. Down stairs there was a large verandah. Being anxious to have a proper bargain made about the house, I sent for the owner's agent, and desired him to sign an agreement, which one of my assistants had drawn out. I was afraid that should I not have a sure bargain made the proprietor of the house might raise some objections when he should see the work which I intended carrying on. The man told me that no agreement of this kind could be made in Kashmir without the presence and consent of the Maharajah's Baboo. I need scarcely say I felt very anxious about the result of his being present. He was, nevertheless, sent for and came. When all was amicably and satisfactorily arranged, as I thought, the Baboo said to me that I should require to state in the written agreement that I was prepared to quit the bungalow on the 15th of October next. Seeing that it would be worse than useless to make any objection, I took my pen and wrote as he desired, feeling greatly ashamed that I belonged to the country of which Kashmir is a tributary. It is most devoutly to be wished that the policy of our country towards such states as Kashmir were more becoming a great and Christian nation like Great Britain. How contemptible and inconsistent as a nation we must appear to such a people as the Kashmiris.

"9th May.–To-day is memorable in the history of the Kashmir Medical Mission, from the fact that I opened my dispensary this morning. I had given notice that I intended receiving patients from this date. The verandah on the southern aspect of the house was prepared for the sick people to meet in. Punctually at seven o'clock A.M., I, Qadir, the catechist, and my two native assistants went into the verandah, after supplicating together the blessing of God on the work which we were about to initiate in Srinagar. Qadir read the opening verses of the fifth chapter of the Gospel of Matthew, and made a running and suitable commentary on the passage. The service was closed with a brief prayer for the divine blessing. I now retired to the small verandah on the east side of the house, which I had had fitted up–very rudely, I must confess–as a dispensary. Here the patients were seen one by one. The number present to-day was ten. In the course of the day the Baboo called to see me. During his visit he told me that some Padre Sahib had been preaching in the Bázár, and that the Diwan had commanded him (the Baboo) to inform the gentleman, whoever he might be, that he was not to repeat his Bázár preaching. I ascertained afterwards that the Rev. W. Handcock was the clergyman referred to.

"10th.–Received a note from the Rev. W. Handcock to say that as he had been prohibited by the Diwan's order from preaching any more in the bazaar, and as his servants found it impossible to obtain supplies of food, he had resolved to quit Srinagar on the 12th inst. 'If they persecute you in one city, flee into another.' With Mr Handcock's fate before me, it would be most unwise on my part to permit my catechist to preach in the bazaar. It appears to be the best course in the circumstances, however desirable it may be that it were otherwise, to be content with the day of small things in Kashmir, and to wait patiently and prayerfully for a brighter day to dawn on this most unhappy country. After the morning reception of patients, I, accompanied by Qadir, visited two of the bazaars of the city, not for the purpose of preaching, but to know the people and to spread the news of our dispensary. Began to read English with my native assistants.

"13th May.–Began my Saturday itinerations to-day. We hired a boat and sailed in the direction of the Takht-i-Suliman, and landed at a small village, where we had a meeting of the villagers, among whom four applied for medicine. The name of the village is Gagribal. I purpose to devote the Saturday afternoons to these short itinerations to the neighbouring villages, that the people may hear the gospel in their own tongue, and know of the Medical Missionary Dispensary in Srinagar.

"16th May.–The number of patients thirty, the majority of whom were sepoys. I begin to suspect that this is the result of some plan or other to prevent the Kashmiris from coming to our dispensary. We shall see. The devil is doubtless busy. The Bishop of Calcutta, accompanied by his private physician, arrived at a little past seven to see our operations. He heard the greater part of the address which Qadir was delivering when he entered. The passage of Scripture being commented on was Our Lord's Prayer. His lordship adjourned to the surgery after prayer, and remained till he had seen a number of the sick examined and treated. Received a note in the course of the day from Colonel Gardner, requesting medical advice for one of his children.

"17th May.–Began tract distribution to-day in the Bazaar. The people received them gladly. I make it a point not to give away any books unless the receiver can read them. The people are very friendly indeed.

"18th May.–The number of patients this morning was forty. Excised a cystic tumour from a young man. Having explained the object and effects of chloroform, I asked him if he wished me to give it to him. After some slight hesitation he consented. In all probability this is the first time a native Kashmiri has been anæsthetised in the valley with chloroform.

"19th May.–The Lord Bishop of Calcutta paid the Dispensary a second visit this morning, along with his private chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Harley. Paid my first domiciliary visit to-day to see the young man from whom I had excised the cystic tumour yesterday. Was gladly received.

"20th May.–After this morning's reception we hired a boat, and set out for a pretty large village called Hazrat Bal, which is situated on the shores of the large lake near to Srinagar. We took a supply of medicines and tracts with us. On landing at the place, a shady tree was selected, near to the Musjid, and there my chair and the medicines were placed. While Qadir, the catechist, was giving information of our arrival and objects, I went to see the neighbouring Mussulman temple. There I saw the principal Mullah or priest with a few of his subordinates. We had some conversation together, after which I left them, thinking that by this time Qadir would have collected the people. On leaving the Musjid and its priests, I found Qadir standing under a shady walnut tree addressing a numerous company of hale and sick folks, who were quietly seated on the ground round him, listening most attentively to his words. The Mullahs, as soon as they heard what Qadir was speaking about to the people, rushed amongst them, shouting out that they were to go away immediately. Their efforts were successful. All left us except one poor woman, who appeared to be imbecile. She would not move. One priest applied very liberally a rope, which he carried in his hand, to those whose movements were slower than he thought they should be. It was a sad scene, and the only antidote I could think of for my feelings of indignation was prayer to that God who was looking on and seeing all that was taking place against His blessed gospel. Qadir, the two native assistants, and myself, all knelt down under that same shady walnut, and prayed God to forgive these enemies of His truth and change their hearts. Only three sick persons availed themselves of the opportunity presented to them of obtaining advice and medicine. We got into our boat and made for home, much depressed by what had happened.

"24th May.–Mr. Jenkins, the British Resident, called on me to-day, and in course of conversation expressly told me I was not to ask or expect any support from him, in his official capacity, in my medical missionary operations.

"25th May.–No fewer than eight women were present amongst the patients this morning. The number of female patients is gradually increasing. Had two surgical operations to-day, for which chloroform was administered. No objection was made to its being exhibited, either by the patients or their friends, who were present at the operations. Indeed the natives are taking most kindly to this invaluable auxiliary to surgery. Was informed by a friend that the priests of Hazrat Bal had complained to the Diwan about my catechist, accusing him of having said all sorts of untrue and unseemly things respecting them. These charges are entirely false, and are made with the view of having a stop put to our Medical Missionary itinerations. The Lord thwart their purposes.

"26th May.–The young man from whom I extirpated the cystic tumour, called to-day to show himself. He presented me with two rupees as a token of his gratitude. I merely touched them and returned them. The poor fellow seemed at a loss to find words to say how grateful he felt towards us.

"27th May.–Thirty-four patients this morning. The subject of the address, The Fall of man and his redemption by Jesus Christ, God's Son. In the course of the day, the Rev. Mr. Cowie called, in company with one of the Maharajah's servants, for the purpose of hearing what I had to say of the Hazrat Bal transaction. It appears from what is told me that a very black account of my doings had been given by the Mullahs to the Diwan–that my catechist had called His Highness, the Maharajah, anything but good, and had uttered every sort of abuse to the Mussulman priests–abuse too bad to be even mentioned. Having been present myself, I am able to say that the kind old man did not make one unfavourable allusion to the prince of these realms. Indeed, I have given strict orders that whatever we of the medical mission may either see or hear with respect to the government of this country, we are not to speak about the matter in our dealings with the natives. Of all things in Kashmir, truth is the scarcest, so that one has to be continually on his guard as to what he believes. In Kashmir, I only believe what I see, and sometimes hardly that. The Diwan's messenger, having heard my version of the affair, took his departure.

"29th May.–The Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Yeates of Moultan, and Captain Lewin of Amritsar, came to see our operations. To-day the bishop returned the Visitor's Book, in which he expresses himself as much pleased with what he had seen of my work.

"30th May.–The number of patients present this morning fifty-three, of whom seventeen were women. The subject of address, the Vision of Dry Bones. The attention of the people great. At 11 A.M., called on Mr. Jenkins, the British Resident, according to request, regarding the Hazrat Bal transaction. He informed me of the nature of the charge the fifteen mullahs of Hazrat Bal had brought against my catechist, of which mention has already been made in a previous entry. Mr. Jenkins then requested me to promise I should give up these Saturday itinerations, which I refused to do, as I knew for certain that the charges brought against Qadir were a fabrication from beginning to end. I promised this much, I should not pay a second visit to Hazrat Bal during the season. I also stated I was most ready to give due consideration to any official document coming from the heads of the native Government prohibiting me from itinerating. How humiliating and inexplicable it is, that states tributary to India should be allowed to do that which, if the Sultan of Turkey were to attempt, would be sure to call forth a sharp remonstrance from the Secretary for Foreign Affairs at home.

"31st May.–Opened my small hospital to-day. It accommodates from four to five patients. The verandah, in which the patients used to assemble to hear the address, has been fitted up for this purpose, while the long verandah downstairs is in future to be our meeting-room, being much larger than the one above. Vaccinated the two children of the Brahmin at the head of financial matters in Kashmir.

"3d June.–To-day, went with Qadir into the city, and spoke to a good many maimed persons and others whom we met in our peregrinations. The people listened very attentively and politely to us. Gave away a good many tracts and larger treatises on religious subjects.

"6th June.–Whilst distributing tracts, and speaking to the people in the bazaar, was requested by a goldsmith to go and see his wife, who, he said, had become totally blind. Went with the man to his house, and was permitted to enter with him. His wife turned out to have double cataract. The case is in every respect fit for operating on.

"8th June.–The number of patients present this morning was sixty-three, seventeen of whom were women. As usual, the people were very attentive to the portion of Scripture which I read. With the aid of chloroform, removed another tumour in the forenoon. Have great reason for heartfelt thankfulness to God, inasmuch as hitherto nothing untoward has happened with respect to my medical work.

"14th June.–To-day, eighty-three patients were present, and of that number thirty-nine were women. The greatest quietness prevails during the religious services.

"15th June.–With the aid of chloroform, removed a large staphyloma. The people are becoming acquainted with the fact there is a medicine that takes away pain by making them sleep, and readily take it when it is required. Heard to-day that orders had been issued by the heads of the native Government that no sepoy is to come to me for advice and medicine.

"17th June.–A poor coolie, who had been accidentally shot in the thigh, died this morning in hospital. His relatives would not grant a post mortem examination. It is impossible for medicine to make much progress in India as long as it continues to be so difficult to obtain specimens of morbid anatomy.

"19th June.–Assisted by the Rev. Mr. Yeates, performed resection of the wrist-joint. The patient was a young woman. Her parents were present during the operation.

"23d June.–One of the principal pundits of the city sent his boat for me to come in to see him, as he was very ill. Accompanied by Qadir, I went, and found the old man sitting in a summer-house, propped up on his bed, and surrounded by his male relatives. There was no female friend near him. I examined the old man, and prescribed for him accordingly. Whilst so engaged, Qadir was busy talking with some of the relations about Christ and the gospel. We gave copies of the separate Gospels to four of those men. How very different a Christian sick-chamber would have been from this one.

"29th June.–To-day, laid up with fever. Obliged to send away the patients who had assembled.

"2d July.–To-day, the collection for the Kashmir Medical Mission was made at the station church; the Rev. W. G. Cowie, M.A., chaplain, preached.

"11th July.–I still feel so weak, that I have deemed it necessary to have a change, and set out to-day for the south-east of the valley, intending to go as far as Islamabad. I purpose to go by slow stages, and to halt at the villages and towns on my way, and distribute tracts and medicines. Qadir, my two assistants, and servant accompany me. We take along with us a large supply of medicines, tracts, and gospels. Having asked God to bless us and our journey, we took our leave of Srinagar, intending to make Pampur our first resting-place. We reached Pampur about 6 P.M., and immediately pitched the tent amongst a clump of willows on the river's bank. We had not been long encamped before a little company gathered round us, and we had some interesting conversation. Qadir was the chief speaker. Pampur is a town of some importance, situated on the right hank of the river Jhelum. It is said to contain 300 houses, and 2000 inhabitants. It is celebrated for the saffron-fields adjoining it, and carries on a small trade in shawls.

"12th July.–To-day, we had two receptions for the sick, at which forty-five patients were seen, and received advice and medicines, after the usual religious services. Those who were able to read received books also. The people most civil and obliging. The governor of the place happened to have been a patient of mine in Srinagar, but as he had to leave Pampur for the capital on business, he kindly sent a servant of his to wait upon me, and assist in every way. Qadir and I, between the two receptions, went into the town, where we gave away tracts and copies of the Gospels. We had some quiet friendly discussion with one of the mullahs belonging to the musjid. In the evening, six Hindu pundits came to see us, and Qadir, who can speak about nothing but Jesus and His love, had a most animated discussion with one of them, which was carried on in the most friendly way.

"13th July.–To-day, had another reception, at which a large number of sick folks attended. Treated fifty-eight new patients. At 12 o'clock noon, entered our boats, and sailed up the river towards our next halting-place.

14th July.–"Went with Qadir Bakhsh, to examine the ruins of the temple of Avantipura, which is said to have been built to the honour of Siva in the eighth century. The stones, or rather blocks, of blue limestone, of which this grand structure was formed, lie heaped one on another, but in such a state of preservation, that one is inclined to believe that its present state of ruin has been caused by earthquake, and not by the dilapidating hand of man or time. The Rev. Mr. Cowie has collected a large sum of money for the purpose of excavating some portion of the buried ruins; and one whole side of the square of the colonnade which surrounded the shrine is now laid bare. The remains of the splendid pillars are worthy of Athens or Rome; large blocks of carved stone lie between them, and towards the north side there are the remains of an arched gateway, through which must have been the entrance to the inner temple. It stands almost entire. The ground-plan is about fifty-four feet square, and the height is supposed to have been sixty-eight feet. On two buttresses, at either side of the interior, are traces of carved idols. Avantipura was once the capital of Kashmir.

"18th July.–I forgot to mention that, through the kindness of Drs. Brown and Dallas of Lahore, a native doctor had been sent to help me from the Punjaub. He arrived in Srinagar a day or two before our departure. On arriving at Islamabad, we had encamped on the left bank of the river, which was the only convenient camping-ground near the city. We are awkwardly situated for the sick, as the river lay between us and the city. In consequence of this drawback to our position, we had to cross the river daily; and, as there was a large grove quite close to the city, we met there for worship and the reception of the sick. The number of patients present to-day was (?). Qadir addressed the group, and was patiently and quietly listened to. Islamabad lies on low ground near the river, which is here a comparatively small stream. The surrounding country is well wooded, and finely cultivated. Behind the town is a long lacustrine promontory, stretching back for several miles, and on this platform, at its upper end, is built the ancient temple of Martand. It is by far the most perfect ruin of its class in the valley–the inner temple being still almost complete, and on the walls it is not difficult to trace the remains of carefully carved images. The surrounding walls are much broken, but have evidently been formed of the splendid blocks of hewn and carved limestone which lie heaped in every direction. The temple faces the sun, in whose honour it was built about 350 A.D.

"20th July.–To-day, we loosened our moorings, and sailed away from Islamabad, not without the hope that what had been done and said would, in God's good time, bear fruit. The Maharajah's servants were exceedingly civil and obliging, and the kotwal spoke very kindly of the Rev. R. Clark, who had visited Islamabad the previous year.

"22d July.–The previous evening, we arrived at the village of Kákapur, which is situated on the left bank of the river Jhelum. On arriving, intimation was given that the hakim would receive patients in the morning. In the morning, a company of fifty was gathered under the shade of a gigantic plane tree on the bank of the river, near to our boats. Qadir read the third chapter of St. John's Gospel, and then explained the nature of the new birth, with its fruits. The people most attentive, and apparently interested. Twenty-six persons applied for advice and medicine. The poverty and filth of the people great. The majority of the cases ophthalmic.

"27th July.–(Srinagar). In the afternoon, performed Chopart's operation for caries of the bones of tarsus. The patient was a girl, whose father and mother were present during the operation. Chloroform was administered to the patient, who went off very quickly. In operating, my difficulties are legion, for I have everything to do myself.

"10th August.–Twenty-seven men and twenty-seven women present. One man from Baramula, another from Islamabad, the two extremities of the valley. Addressed them myself from the opening verses of St. John's Gospel: one of the Diwan's principal officers was present, and when he heard me speak of the Son of God made manifest in the flesh, it was too much for him: he quietly rose and took his leave."

"11th August.–Number of patients thirty-two. Subject of address from St. John xv., 'This is my commandment, that ye love one another, as I have loved you.' I always take care to select such passages as embody the cream of the Gospel–the Father's love, and the Father's Gift, Jesus the Son of God, Jesus God, His voluntary sacrifice of Himself for all who shall believe on Him, the free invitation to all to come and be saved. I touch but little on Mohammedanism or Hinduism. I think the spread of the gospel would be hindered by my doing so, and that more progress would be made if there were less of polemics in missionary operations. Let the gospel be fully preached, and we shall see that Christ is still the power of God unto salvation to everyone that believeth.

"12th August.–Twenty-seven men and seventeen women present to-day. After dispensary work, my assistants and I sailed up the river to see the ruins of Pandrenton, an old Hindu Temple; distance no more than three miles, but it took us four hours to reach the place by water, the Jhelum meanders so. The temple is situated in the midst of a small lake, which is covered with reeds. It is built of large blocks of stone, and shows, in its style of architecture, a close affinity to the form of the common Hindu temple of Bengal, i.e., the square block surmounted by a pyramid roof. The floor is under water; lying near the edge of the small lake, we saw the God, a stone image, with red paint marks. It is still worshipped much. Returned by land. Saw quantities of hemp growing, and also some plants of "thorn-apple." Met many worshippers returning from Amarnath, one of whom told me that six men had been killed in ascending to the Holy Cave by the falling of some rocks.

"15th August.–Fifty-three patients to-day. Addressed them from St. John iii. 16, 17. Felt my own heart glow with love to the Saviour, as I tried to commend Him to others. It is very trying to speak to an assembly on matters in which they have not the least sympathy. But the promise, 'Lo, I am with you alway,' is fulfilled.

"22d August.–Learned to-day from one of the Maharajah's military servants that the report I had heard some time ago about the sepoys and people having been prohibited from coming to me was quite correct. Besides, it turns out that a sepoy had been placed at the end of the wooden bridge adjacent to my bungalow, to keep a watch upon my movements. Both the sepoys and people have up to this time paid very little attention to the prohibition. The collection made by the Rev. Mr. Cowie, the chaplain, for the Kashmir Medical Mission amounted to Rs.113, 6a.

"26th August.–To-day, there were forty-four women and thirty-two men present at the morning's reception. A native gentleman called on me in the afternoon, to tell me he had spoken to the Diwan or governor of Kashmir, about my being allowed to remain during the winter months in the valley. I had operated on this man some time before, and he took this way of showing his gratitude. He said to my friend I could not obtain permission from the native Government to stay in Kashmir throughout the year, for the following reasons: 1. Because it would be contrary to the treaty; 2. Because there is a famine in the country, I might not be able to get provisions in the winter; 3. Because more than one European has lost his life by remaining in Kashmir during the winter months; and 4. Because it is contrary to the Maharajah's wish that Europeans should stay in Kashmir in winter. The sepoys and people who have derived benefit from the dispensary talk of petitioning the Diwan to allow me to remain.

"29th August.–The number of patients present to-day was ninety. The address was delivered as usual, and the attention marked. Had two surgical operations–one the excision of a fatty tumour, and the other an operation for ectropion. Yesterday, was asked to conduct service in the usual place of worship–the chaplain being absent. Was greatly agitated at first, but became calmer as the service advanced. Read the first chapter of Bonar's 'God's Way of Holiness.' I greatly relish that book for its clear and thorough exhibition of divine truth. To-day, seventy-three patients, diseases chiefly ophthalmic.

He thus writes to his mother:–"Sept. 23d, 1865.–I am able–still very imperfectly, it is true–to tell the poor Kashmiris of God's overflowing love to sinners. The sinful heart is hard, but I firmly believe that, if anything will break it, and soften it, and make it holy and loving, it is the exhibition of God's infinite love to lost man. In speaking to others of Jesus and His unutterable love, I feel my own soul glowing and going out towards God in yearning desires for greater holiness, greater likeness to my blessed Redeemer, and for a complete consecration to His service. My heart's most earnest desire is, next to my own salvation, that God would honour me to lead many to the Saviour before I die, and I am hopeful of one or two of those among whom I labour. Paul may plant, and Apollos water, but it is God alone who can give the increase. Pray for the increase, dearest mother.

"I have good news to tell you; the chaplain here, the Rev. Mr. Cowie, is going home, and as he purposes visiting Aberdeen, he has kindly promised to call on you, and tell you all about me and the mission work. He has given me his horse and saddle–this horse was the property of Sir Colin Campbell during the mutiny. I forgot to tell you that a native gentleman has had a handsome signet ring made for me as a mark of his gratitude for my having cured him of a chronic and painful disease. My work goes on steadily; no spiritual fruit as yet; but, perhaps, I should not say this, for a Kashmiri, who fearlessly declared his faith in Christ in an open bazaar yesterday, endured a terrible beating from his fellow-countrymen, and still seems to stand fast. I had fifty patients this morning. They always listen attentively, but I can see by the countenances of many, that the word is not received with gladness. It would indeed be a miracle if it were, for the gospel strikes at the root of all that those benighted people look to for happiness in the next world or in this, and reproves them with a voice of thunder for the wicked life they live now. I have now no hope of being allowed to remain during the winter. Dear mother, pray that the Lord may mollify the Maharajah's heart.

"24th.–To-day had sixty patients. Oh, dear mother, that we could wholly live to God and for others! How happy, truly happy, we should both be now and on the other side. Pray for me, dear mother. The devil would fain tempt me to think that this is fruitless work, and that I am a fool for not living for the present world, with its honours and wealth. Lord, we believe, help Thou our unbelief. Blessings on you, dear mother! Let us think more of Jesus, and of heaven, and of the life beyond! then we shall certainly be happy.

"25th Sept.–Heard glad news to-day from the catechist, to the effect that my Kashmiri pundit had declared to him that he firmly believed the gospel was true, but that he was afraid to make a public profession of his faith in Jesus for fear of the consequences. He is but a Nicodemus in faith. Lord strengthen him. I was not at all surprised at this news, for the pundit generally spent his Sundays with us in reading the New Testament, and speaking about Christianity.

"29th Sept.–Long conversation to-day with my servants on divine things. We spoke of baptism; its import, and what makes a man a true Christian. My pundit, a sepoy, a merchant, and native doctor, listened with manifest interest.

"6th Oct.–Was called to see the Maharajah's chief military officer in Kashmir. He confirmed the report formerly spoken of. I could not help jocularly saying, that according to our European notions, the Maharajah's army must be in a state of insubordination from the colonel downwards.

"16th Oct.–Was requested by the Brahmin, who is at the head of financial affairs in Kashmir, and on whom I had operated a short time before, to go with him and see one of the female members of his family who had sore eyes, according to his account. I was only too glad to go with him, in order to get an entrance into this Hindu family.

"17th Oct.–To-day left Srinagar. The Brahmin of yesterday accompanied me out of the town, and expressed how grateful he felt for the benefit he had received from the Medical Missionary Dispensary. I purpose returning to the Punjaub by the Pir Panjal, and following the same plan as I did on my way into the valley, i.e., of having receptions and addresses at each of the resting-places."

Before starting with Dr. Elmslie on his return to Amritsar, the following testimonies to the value of his work in Kashmir, and of Medical Missions in general, may be suitably introduced:–

The Bishop of Calcutta entered the following remarks in the visitors' book:–"During my present stay in Kashmir I have twice been present at Dr. Elmslie's reception of patients, and bear willing testimony to the great interest and practical usefulness, as well as to the wise and Christian character of his proceedings. He presents Christianity to the people in its most obviously beneficent aspect; and for this union of care for men's souls with the healing of their bodies the gospel narrative furnishes us with the very highest justification and precedent. It is but little that we can, at present, do to make known to the people of this country the blessings of Christ's salvation; but I quite believe that Dr. Elmslie is knocking at the one door which may, through God's help, be opened for the truth to enter in. I heard two Hindustani sermons from his catechist, addressed to the sufferers from various maladies, who were gathered in the verandah, one on the Lord's prayer, and the other on the parable of the sower. Both were excellent, simple, unpretending, suited to the hearers, placing before them plain Christian truth, and without any offensive remarks on their own religions, or the very slightest political allusion. The fact that there are not (and, under present circumstances, apparently cannot be) any properly educated doctors in Kashmir, makes Dr. Elmslie's presence here an act of Christian benevolence, quite apart from its missionary character; and I cannot but hope that this, joined to the quiet efforts of the chaplain to keep alive in English travellers a feeling of Christian faith and responsibility, will at least remove from the minds of the people any prejudice against the Gospel which may, I fear, have been excited by the too frequent misconduct of Englishmen visiting the valley. On all accounts I heartily commend Dr. Elmslie's efforts to the sympathy of all thoughtful persons, and I feel sure that he will be guided by prudence, as well as zeal, and will not forget what is due to the wishes of the Government of the country, while, at the same time, he will of course maintain the directly Christian character of his work."

The subjoined was written by the Rev. W. G. Cowie, M.D., chaplain on duty in Kashmir:–"Dr. Elmslie has asked me to state here any suggestions I may have to offer respecting the system pursued by him at his daily receptions of patients. I have been present on several occasions during the last four months, and much pleased each time by what I saw and heard. I frequently ask natives of Kashmir what they think about the Medical Mission, and am invariably told by them that they consider Dr. Elmslie's work a great blessing to the poor of Srinagar, and of the valley in general. I am not acquainted with the working of any other mission whose system I consider so hopeful as that adopted by Dr. Elmslie; and during my expected sojourn in England and Scotland (in 1866-67), it will afford me the greatest pleasure to advocate the claims of the mission on the Christian public in every way I can."

One more testimony may be introduced, by the Rev. G. Yeates, M.A., missionary, Moultan:–"As a brother missionary, I feel great pleasure in adding my testimony to the value of the Medical Mission in Kashmir, as conducted by Dr. Elmslie. While in Srinagar, I have frequently been present at his receptions of patients, as also at Islamabad, when he visited that town, and have enjoyed the meetings very much. I have seldom heard gospel truths more faithfully preached than in the addresses to the patients, which, along with the prayer that followed each, could not have been better suited to the audience. The spirit of love was manifested in all that was said, while the more tangible appeal to the senses which followed, in the way of medicines and advice, afforded a strong proof of the intention to benefit them which, under God's blessing, cannot but result in good."

CHAPTER IX.
WAYSIDE MINISTRIES AND WORK IN AMRITSAR.

In India Dr. Elmslie had two homes–if indeed he had a home at all, for he spoke of himself as being like Noah's dove, without a resting place for the sole of his foot–two homes and three spheres of labour. For six months in the year he lived and worked, as we have seen, in Kashmir. Then going each season to and from this, his main centre of action, he had no home whatever–sometimes like his Divine Master he had no place to lay his head–but he had a precious sphere of usefulness in wayside ministries amongst the sick and suffering, of which he gladly availed himself; and then for a few months in the year, in Amritsar, or some other city, he opened a dispensary and carried on his Medical Missionary operations. Leaving the beautiful valley we shall accompany him as he moves by the Pir Panjal towards Amritsar, exemplifying as he goes the heaven-appointed plan of missions–HEAL AND PREACH.

"Journal, October 20th, 1865.–Road to Haripur rough, but the scenery more and more beautiful, reminding me of the dear Scotch Highlands. No shelter at Haripur, so breakfasted on the path-side and set out for Aliabad Serai, which is near the very highest point to which we ascend the Himalayas. Road all precipitous and rough, a pony indispensable for comfort, but not quite free of danger, for as I was urging my tuttoo up one of the knotty points of the mountain he fell back. I threw myself to one side and escaped all injury, but the pony went rolling down the rocks for some distance. The scenery from Haripur to Aliabad is very grand; the towering mountains are covered with magnificent pines, and deep down in the ravine below, there dashes a wild river, its course fretted by many a boulder. About five P.M. I reached the Serai, tired and longing to rest, very hungry, but my servants had not arrived. The night was bitterly cold, and I had to spend it without even a blanket to cover me, for my servants had stayed at the foot of the last ascent and did not arrive till morning."

"A little beyond Aliabad Serai the traveller reaches the summit of the pass, about 12,000 feet above sea level. On it there stands a watch-tower, inhabited by the guardian of the pass. The view is inconceivably grand, it entrances one, making one forget all the fatigues of the journey and rejoice in the glories of God's creation. India's plains lie stretched before you, with an intervening foreground of marvellously verdant mountains, while towering above and around are the thousand snowy peaks of the Himalayas. The descent is not so easy as it seems at first. The paths are precipitous, and often dangerous, and always lonely. The marches from one Serai to another are sixteen miles." On arriving, tired and footsore, Dr. Elmslie often found that his servants were far behind him, and he was thankful to accept the hospitality of the natives, and to partake of milk and chipatties gladly supplied by them. At every resting place he called the sick, and did what he could to relieve their sufferings, while his catechist addressed them from the Word. He writes, "I am delighted to be able to follow Qadir Bakhsh in his addresses now: his similes are always apt; for instance, to-day when speaking of faith he said, 'Faith is like a seed which the Holy Spirit takes and sows in the heart; from the seed grows the Christian tree, and the fruit of the tree is good works.' Though tired, I felt impelled to say a word or two about God's unspeakable love. The people listened with marked attention." Again he writes:–"October 25th.–Soon after leaving Rajaori we saluted a company of Chinese Mussulmans on their way to Mecca, and again we met in the Serai at Sialsui–a wretched mud building in which I took refuge from a thunderstorm. Qadir Bakhsh told me he had had a long conversation with one of them, and it had ended in his asking him for a Testament. He could read and speak Persian, he said, so I called him and had some conversation. I learned that he came from Foochow, one of four Mussulman cities in China, and, anxious to show his repentance for sin, he had set out on the pilgrimage to Mecca. I tried to show him the utter impossibility of any man obtaining eternal life through mere repentance without an atoning sacrifice, such a sacrifice as our blessed Saviour had offered up. He listened to Qadir Bakhsh and me silently, and again expressed his desire to possess a copy of the 'Injil.' Not having any with me in Persian, we gave him a copy of the Old Testament, and he was much pleased. He read the Decalogue with great interest. Poor fellow, he said he had been nine months on his pilgrimage already. What a lesson in earnestness! Lord, bless thine own word to this deluded follower of the false prophet.

"While conversing with him, the Kotwal of the village and his followers had come in. Afterwards we had a remarkably interesting conversation with a very intelligent Kashmiri, who had been listening attentively to all that was said to the Chinaman.

"October 28th.–One of our Chinese friends who follow in our track, has an attack of tonsillitis, for which he applied for medicine, which he got, along with a few words intended to reach the seat of the spiritual disease. This is my Indian birthday. Help me, Lord, to do more in the coming year, towards spreading the news of Thy marvellous love to lost men!

"31st October, near Thāh.–Crossed the Chenab by a rudely constructed ferryboat; the road to Thāh comparatively good, but long and broken by tributaries of the Chenab. There is a wonderful difference between the cultivation of the neighbouring country compared to that of the territory through which I have come. An extensive system of irrigation is carried on by the native farmers. About three o'clock I arrived alone at Thāh, where I was intending to pass the night, but found that the 'Sahib Log' went to a village at some distance. So at least the rogue of a bombardār informed me. After a ride of ten minutes, I reached the said village and dismounted under the shade of a clump of trees, requesting my conductor, the son of said bombardār, to go back to Thāh and send me some milk and fruit, also some grain for my horse, as I feared my servants would not arrive till late. His promises of a speedy return with all I wanted were not fulfilled, and I sat there alone, tired with my journey, from four till seven o'clock, when Qadir Bakhsh arrived, much to my joy. He at once set out to forage, but without success. Having tasted nothing since early morning, and seeing no prospect of dinner, I set out with Qadir Bakhsh to see what we could effect by our combined forces. I shall never forget the furious rage dear old Qadir Bakhsh acted, greatly to the terror of all who came near him. When no one was looking he turned round and laughed heartily to me. It was an amusing scene even to a hungry man as I was, and as the fruit of it, one woman brought us, partly from fear, partly from pity, some milk, a charpae and some straw, and with these we had to be content for the night. I drank my milk, thanking God for all His goodness during the day, and went to sleep under the shade of the trees. In the morning found my followers had arrived through the night. Walked most of the way to Sealkote with a mussulman, and told him about Jesus and His great salvation.

"November 5th.–Early this morning arrived at Amritsar. Busy preparing house in city for dispensary, &c. Mean to live there in order to be near my patients.

"Amritsar, 20th November, 1865.–My ever dearest mother,–Since my return from Kashmir I have had a very sorrowful work to perform; one of the young missionaries connected with the work here, had had an attack of dysentery, and had been ordered off to Dalhousie in hope of benefiting from the mountain air. But he became worse and worse. I went up to this hill station in order to help his poor young wife in nursing him, and if possible, to bring him down to the plains again, but it was too late; he died three hours before I arrived. You can imagine the scene of sorrow. Mr. Watkin was a very promising young missionary, and we all feel deeply our loss in his death. After a few days my friend and his, Mr. R., came down, bringing Mrs. W. with us.

"3d January, 1866.–God continues to give me in His great goodness an ordinary quantum of health and spirits. I know nothing so conducive to both, as the assurance that God is reconciled to you, and you to God, through the precious blood of Jesus. How is your soul prospering? Is Jesus becoming more and more precious, and is the world becoming more like a wilderness to you? We have been taught this lesson very solemnly of late. Another of our number has been summoned home. The Rev. W. Stevenson of Peshawur died some days ago of fever. Mr. Clark's fine little boy too has been taken away. These events solemnize us greatly, while they remind us also of God's great mercy in sparing us a little while longer. Yet St. Paul is right when he says that to depart and be with Christ is far better than to remain here in this sinful imperfect world. My work is slowly progressing in Amritsar. Yesterday I had twenty-nine patients, all of whom listened attentively to the word read and explained. You will be happy to hear that I am now able to read the native language, and to make short comments on the passages of Scripture, and also to close our meetings with extempore prayer. I have four assistants here besides the native doctor, and for these lads I have begun two classes,–one for the study of materia medica, and another for anatomy. I find the people here more bigoted than in Kashmir. They would much rather pay a small fee than listen to the address and prayer, although they love money ardently. Next week I hope to open a class for chemistry, in hope of gathering some of the lads in the city who speak English, and who intend taking a degree in the University. It is said I shall have a large class, and I think I may thus come into closer relationship with many young men.

"You express a hope that we may be found in Jesus. Why should we doubt it? Jesus is ready to receive us. We know He is more willing to bless than we are to receive the blessing. The Father has constructed a stupendous machinery for the express purpose of bringing us to Him; we will go to Jesus and dwell where He dwells.

"February 19th, 1866.–Did I tell you that I had commenced a course of lectures on chemistry? There are twenty-six names on the list, and I trust my object may be realized in counteracting some of the evil influences of much of our scientific literature.

"July 19th, 1866.–As the Lieutenant Governor, with his court, is expected to be present at the Durbār, which will be held here next week, we purpose having a meeting of our Medical Mission Committee, when a new Secretary and Treasurer is to be appointed. I trust I shall not be called on to undertake this work, for I feel sure it would hinder me from doing so much direct mission work as I should be able to do if free of all money matters and correspondence. They say in Amritsar that I am to meet with much opposition from Government this season in Kashmir. If the work is the Lord's, then all things must ultimately work together for His glory. He can restrain the fury of men, saying to them, as He did to the great deep, 'Hitherto shalt thou come, and no further.' I am often with you in spirit, often with you, dearest mother, at the throne of grace, breathing out desires for a blessing on you. How very near we are in Christ.

"I had a visit from three priests of the golden temple to-day, who presented me with a quantity of sweetmeats and flowers, and after the usual civilities, we entered into conversation about 'Namak Sahib' and the Grunth; I trying to tell them something of the gospel. They were, however, bent on something else. After telling me of the liberal bakhshish so many great sahibs had given them, they at last, provoked at my not taking the hint, asked me point blank what I would give them. I replied in some such words as Peter, 'Silver and gold have I none, but such as I have give I thee,' and assured them of my willingness to give them medicine for body and for soul. They gathered up the sweetmeats and flowers, and stalked off, not a little disappointed.

"January 23d, 1866.–To Dr. Cleghorn.–It would have afforded me unbounded pleasure to have met you, and talked over with you the concerns and prospects of the mission, of which you have the honour of being the father, and I that of being the agent....

"We had a most delightful week of prayer the week before last. We felt indeed that the Lord was in our midst. We shall expect great blessings after such united supplications on the part of God's people, according to His own gracious promise. On the 31st inst. we are to have another day for prayer on behalf of medical missions, according to the appointment of the home society. Would that God would pour out His Holy Spirit on our Universities, that men may come and offer themselves for this glorious work!

"March 6th, 1866.–To be ready! What does this imply? Does it require some great effort or labour on my part to become ready for the coming of the Son of Man? Nay, I have only to believe in Jesus; He is my righteousness. In Him is all the Father requires. Blessed Jesus, how very very precious Thou art to me! Why should I ever hunger or thirst, when in Thee is fulness of all I need. Why should any perish, seeing that Jesus has done and suffered so much that we might have life. Let me, with humble, thankful, loving, joyful, and faithful heart, take this full salvation, and even now feast upon it, even now become rich through it, even now rejoice with joy unspeakable and full of glory!" This precious thought regarding our completeness in Christ came out in an interesting form during his student days in Edinburgh. A patient of his was subject to attacks of cramp, and on one occasion fainted from the severity of the pain. When the sufferer emerged from unconsciousness, he found the hand of the young doctor resting gently on his clammy brow and exclaimed, 'Oh, doctor, to be ready, and to get away from this terrible suffering!' The doctor answered softly, 'You are always ready in Jesus, you will never be ready out of Him.'

"March 7th, 1866.–Still labouring away in Amritsar, but intend to close my dispensary soon, and to pack up for the journey over the mountains. I continue to enjoy excellent health, and am very happy in soul. Jesus, my Saviour, becomes dearer and dearer to me every day. My faith in Him is growing stronger, and my delight in my work is also increasing. I am persuaded that to labour for Christ in this world is the greatest honour and the surest and speediest way to becoming strong and happy in the Lord.

"Last week we had a series of grand meetings here. Numbers of Europeans and native gentlemen met together for the purpose of discussing many points bearing on the social condition of this province. The first day was devoted to the delivery of speeches, and reading of addresses on different social questions. We met in a large tent, and the brilliant colouring of the dresses worn by the natives made the scene a most picturesque one. On the second day, prizes were given to all who had distinguished themselves at the recent examinations. The third day was the crowning one, because the wise and noble Governor of the province (a Scotchman, Mr. M‛Leod) honoured the meeting with his presence. On that day and on the next, I had the honour of dining with the Lieutenant Governor. On Thursday, he kindly offered to drive me to a conversazione, given to the native gentlemen. He made me sit by him in the carriage on his right hand, and spoke to me of Scotland. But now, dearest mother, I must stop short. My message for you is Genesis xv. 1, a lovely, true, and comforting word. Pray for me and for poor Kashmir. O may God richly bless you in soul and body.–Your ever loving son, Willie.

"April 2d, 1866.–To Dr. Cleghorn.–I brought my operations here to a close a short time ago, just immediately before we had our last meeting of committee. One day, while I was engaged in giving my lecture on chemistry, which I continued to do till the last, two of the honorary Magistrates of Amritsar waited on me, as a deputation from (what we should call) the Town Council, to request me to prolong my stay in Amritsar. I need not say that this was exceedingly gratifying to me, as a doctor and as a Christian; and my heart was filled with gratitude to our heavenly Father, who had graciously granted me such favour with the very people whose temporal and spiritual welfare are so dear to my heart. Thinking that I was connected with the Government, and that I was about to leave Amritsar on account of a Government order, the deputation said that they were prepared to draw up a petition to Mr. Egerton, the commissioner, and to have it signed, soliciting him to use his influence in getting the order for my departure cancelled. I explained all to them, and expressed my sorrow at not being able to be in two places at the same time; but that I felt it to be my duty to go to Kashmir, where my proper work lay. The time may be near when we shall see a large Medical Mission Hospital in Amritsar. There is room and need for it.... Just another item of news about our pet, and I must have done. Sir John Lawrence has sent a message to Mr. Macleod, the Lieutenant-Governer of the Punjaub, to request the Resident, this year, to inform the Maharajah of Kashmir, that his hostility to Christianity is not neutrality, and that his policy towards missions is unworthy of a prince of his enlightened views. This is the spirit of the message, but not the very words. 'The Lord reigneth!'

"Lahore, 3d April, 1866.–Once more I am on my way to Kashmir, to delight in its beauty, and to cope with its sin and wretchedness.

"We had our annual meeting of the Kashmir Medical Mission a few days ago, and to me it was a very great pleasure to find that all the members were satisfied with the manner in which I had conducted the work in Kashmir. I need not tell you how glad I am for this, not so much on my own account as on account of the work I have so much at heart. 'If any man lack wisdom, let him ask of God, who giveth liberally and upbraideth not.' God is my wisdom; the constant cry of my inmost heart is, 'Make me truly wise to win souls, keep me from doing a right thing in a wrong fashion.' It does cheer me to remember that you, at least, are praying for me; we have to fight against a strong foe; the devil and his emissaries have long held the fort in Kashmir–poor perishing Kashmir, for whom I could weep all day. I have made my first attempt at Report-writing, and, like all my works, it displeases me: I suppose I never shall be pleased with anything I attempt to do or be, till I stand before God, clothed in the perfect righteousness of Christ; then I shall be perfectly satisfied.

"I have sent off my servants and luggage to the borders of Kashmir, and, God willing, hope to set out myself about the 5th inst. I am well, and enabled to lay hold with a firmer grasp on the precious promises of God.

"By-the-bye, if you have not read 'God's Way of Peace,' and 'God's Way of Holiness,' do get them. They have helped me wonderfully. Ever praying that the God of grace and comfort may be with you, I remain your ever loving son, Willie."

"April 9, 1866.–To-day left the hospitable roof of my friend and joint Secretary, Dr. Gray, and set off on the journey to Rawal Pindee. Had a long time alone for prayer, that God would greatly prosper my own soul, making it spiritually fragrant and verdant, that thus I might be enabled to serve Him more truly. Oh, that He would grant to me and all who work with me a double portion of His Spirit, without whose vitalising influence no eternal good can accrue from our efforts. My beloved Saviour, in Thy strength I go up–strong in Thee. I enter an enemy's country to fight with Thy weapons the common foe.

"10th.–A military man is my fellow traveller. Wishing to unfurl my colours, I asked a blessing aloud at breakfast. He did not like my doing so. My soul is very sun-shiny just now. God be praised.

"13th.–Long march to Haripur. Sat down under a clump of trees and read Schönberg-Cotta Family. The female characters in it are beautifully drawn. The approaching campaign in Kashmir much in my thoughts to-day, and I have had great joy and peace in making over the care of it all to the great Care-bearer. Blessed Jesus, go with me!

"April 16th.–I look on no trial now in the same light as formerly, when I had not tested fully how good the Lord is! The child of God is lifted above the world when there subsists between him and his Saviour a vital union–the union of faith. This union makes the believer invincible. He may be cast down, but he will speedily rise again, to become stronger than before. This is the effect of the divine schooling. It educates the man for the battle of this life, as well as for the life which is to come.

"18th.–Left Abbottabad with the Rev. Mr. Wade of Peshawur. Road to Manserah very beautiful, passing through extensive pine forests, scenery more and more grand. Reached the Jhelum about 3 P.M., and crossed it by the rope bridge. The current is rapid and the river eighty yards across at this point.

"19th.–Busy all morning with sick people who had obeyed my summons in great numbers. Qadir Bakhsh addressed them on the opening verses of our Lord's Sermon on the Mount. Journey from Muzufferabad to Do Patta long, and our ponies insufferably bad. About half way my animal stumbled, and down he went. The severity of the blow fell on my right shoulder and side, and at first I really thought some part of the bony apparatus had been fractured. It was some time before I could move, but at last remounted and rode till I could bear the excruciating pain no longer. Walked slowly to the resting place.

"20th.–Spent to-day in bed, resting my arm and doctoring myself. Qadir Bakhsh addressed the sick, and the native doctor prescribed so far as he could.

"April 21st.–Starting at 7 A.M., reached Khanda at 1 P.M., having walked all the way. Very much better to-day. The Nawab of the district sent to ask me for two bottles of wine for his horse. Had some doubt that the article was for himself, not for the horse, and was glad to be able to say I had no wine with me. The chief men of this village confirm my suspicions that the wine was for himself, although he is a Mussulman. Told the people, who came to pay their respects to us, something of God's love to fallen man, and gave notice of a reception of the sick to-morrow morning.

"22d, Sunday.–Early this morning had a gathering of the sick. Twenty-three came, and Qadir Bakhsh addressed them. The Rev. J. R. Wade held service in the afternoon. Another reception of sick in the evening.

"24th.–Much hawthorn on the way to-day, the fragrance of which was delicious. Visited the tomb of a Mussulman, and was allowed to enter. Within the court a square building of trellis-work, which we entered, and then within a screen, we saw the tomb.

In the evening saw twenty sick people, and addressed them from John iii. 15. Gave two men who could read, copies of St. John's Gospel. Lord, water this seed sown!

"April 25th, 1866, Gingal.–Terrible thunder storm overtook us on our march to-day, saw a splendid trough cut out of the solid rock. Reception of patients as usual.

"26th.–Scenery on the way from Gingal to Baramula perfectly sublime. The proud mountains bearing their glistening crowns of snow, the nearer ones clothed with dark-coloured majestic pines. Passed some very ancient ruins, which we thought bore traces of Buddhist origin. Immediately on our arrival here, engaged four large boats for ourselves, servants, and luggage. After tea loosed our moorings and sailed away up the river, which, on account of the melting of snow, is much larger than usual.

"27th.–What a rest after the toils of the journey this delicious sailing is! Spent the day in admiring the surpassingly beautiful scenery of this fairest portion of God's earth, and in prayer for its spiritual emancipation. One cannot help seeing that the marvellous capabilities of the country are but partially developed, the cultivation is very imperfect, the buildings seem everywhere to be falling into ruins, and the people are rendered indolent and heartless by oppressive taxation."

CHAPTER X.
SECOND YEAR'S WORK IN KASHMIR.

It is our privilege, during another season, through means of his journal and letters, to accompany Dr. Elmslie in his Medical Missionary services in Kashmir.

"Journal, April 28, 1866.–Reached Srinagar to-day. Committed my work to the God of missions, and felt calm, trustful, hopeful.

"On reaching the bungalow I had rented last year, found I could not have it again. Disappointed, I sailed up the river and at last secured a bungalow, which I think may do as a make-shift. It is the most remote of the houses set apart for bachelors, and I chose it because there is plenty of ground round it for my patients (if God grant me any) to assemble, without annoying the other visitors. The house needs repair, so Wade and I resolved to pitch our tents till it is ready. Dined outside our tents; weather most beautiful; mountains still covered with snow....

"Here I am once more in this sinful country, for the very purpose of exhibiting some of the loving power of the Gospel. Oh, be pleased to bless and quicken me, and to pour out Thy quickening Spirit on this people, that they may undergo a spiritual resurrection, and live henceforth to the glory of Thy name. Be pleased, O Father, to direct me in all my plans; may souls be converted; this is my one great desire; but, dear and loving and wise heavenly Father, if it should seem good to Thee to withhold from me this great honour and joy, help me to say from the heart, Not my will but Thine be done! In Thy strength I resolve to be more diligent than ever I have yet been, laying hold of every opportunity of doing good both to the souls and bodies of men, and in prosecuting my linguistic studies.