TORREY'S NARRATIVE:

OR, THE

LIFE AND ADVENTURES

OF

WILLIAM TORREY.

Who for the space of 25 months, within the years 1835, '36 and '37, was
held a captive by the Cannibals of the Marquesas, (a group of Islands
in the South Sea,) among whom he was cast from the wreck of the
Brig Doll, Capt.——, of Otaheite, of which wreck himself,
and one shipmate, can alone tell the sad tale. Also, for
many years served in the several capacities requisite
for seamen, on both English and American
Merchants' ships.

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.

Illustrated with Engravings of his own Sketching.

"'Tis mine to tell a tale of grief, Of constant peril, and of scant relief; Of days of danger, and of nights of pain."

BOSTON:

PRESS OF A. J. WRIGHT, 3 WATER STREET.

1848.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1847, By A. L. STEARNS, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts.

PREFACE.

The author, in offering his narrative to the public, is conscious of his almost utter inability to the task of giving it a strictly grammatical publication. We, whose march is upon the mountain wave, and whose home is upon the deep, have but little opportunity, however strong the desire, to become adepts in grammatical or orthographical science. We better know the intricacies of our calling than the intricacies of scientific lore.

One object in this publication, (apart from the pecuniary consideration,) is to give the civilized world an insight into the manners and customs of the children of the island of the sea with whom the author was so long associated, and whose manners and customs were so indelibly fixed upon his memory as well as upon his person.

Also to note the manners and customs of the other nations of the earth, into whose society he was often forced in his many wanderings to and fro. In pursuance of which he proposes giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of each place of importance which he visited, and, to better accomplish this work, he has in many instances consulted the writings of others, as he, as well as all other mariners, was restricted to a certain extent by duties on ship board during the short time he might remain in port, and was therefore unable, through his own observation, to gather many important facts worthy the reader's notice.

There may be many startling incidents narrated in this work—incidents and circumstances which would jar, even upon the ear of credulity itself, to believe; but the author claims one merit, if nothing else, and that is truth.

With these few remarks, he gives his work to the world in expectation of their patronage and sympathy for his sufferings when in bondage among those savages, and, also, in his intercourse with the many other nations of the earth, knowing the indulgent community will kindly overlook all errors which may arise through his inability.

WM. TORREY.

Springfield, Mass., January 1848.

CONTENTS.

LIFE AND ADVENTURES

OF

WILLIAM TORREY.

CHAPTER I.

The author's early life. Has a strong desire to remove. Leaves home. Falls in with a robber by the name of Harris. Goes to New London. Harris commits many thefts. Is taken, and both thrown into prison. Trial comes, and Harris is sentenced to State prison. The Judge takes the author to his own house. Gives him fatherly admonition, and money to go home. Remains sometime. Again leaves, and gladly returns. The third time leaves, and is retaken. Leaves home resolved never to return. Proceeds to New Bedford.

As it will be of little or no interest to the reader, I shall speak but briefly of my early life, simply stating that I was born in the town of Wilbraham, State of Massachusetts, 4th of March, 1814, of poor yet respectable parents.

My father during the winter months, followed the occupation of school teaching. My time was passed between school and boyish sports, until I reached my tenth year; at this time my parents removed to the manufacturing village of Chickopee Falls, (formerly, and perhaps more generally known by its Indian name, Skipmuck,) when I was, during the summer months, put in one of the cotton mills, that my labors might contribute something to the support of the family. This I found extremely tedious, as I was oftentimes much abused by those under whom I worked. Possessing naturally a restless disposition, I was induced to believe this treatment much worse than I could bear; and I resolved to cast myself upon the wave of life, and seek for myself a living, independent of parents or guardians. This resolution I cherished most tenderly; and, in the fall of 1826, packing what clothes I could easily carry, I set out, with a heart beating high with hope, little dreaming of the privations I was to suffer; and which I shall attempt to picture to the reader, from time to time, in the following pages.

I directed my steps towards Hartford, Connecticut. Passing through Longmeadow, I chanced to meet a cousin, much older than myself, who, having by sad experience known somewhat of the hardships of life, besought me, most imploringly, to return to my father's roof. His advice I was unwilling to heed, and passed on. Soon I was overtaken by a gentleman (by the name of Burbanks) who was riding alone, and kindly offered me a seat at his side. Being already quite fatigued, I most gladly accepted his offer. Soon as I was seated he began questioning me, whither I was going, and of my prospects. When informed of my plans, he kindly offered to give me lodging for the night, also to give me, the next morning, a passage to Hartford, on one of the river boats of which his father was pilot. As was presumed, the next morning the boat came in sight, and landed at the wharf, where she stopped but a few moments. After rendering due acknowledgment to my friend and benefactor, I stepped on board, and was under way, (often has the cry of "God bless him!" arisen from the companion, as I have related to the hardy crew this, the first incident of my first adventure,) and had a fine passage down the river.

When safely over the falls at Enfield, the father of my friend left us, and I deeply felt his loss, being, as it were, alone again; my heart, which had before been big with hope, was now the scene of fear and anguish. I was near a strange city, yet unlearned in the world, without a penny in purse. I came near despondency, scarce knowing where I was, or whither going, till I aroused from my reverie by the boat striking against the wharf. I sprang to my feet, and momentarily resolved to forget the past, and to improve the present, that the future would with it bring no misgivings. I soon found myself seated at a public house, where I had engaged entertainment for the night.

After breakfast, the next morning, I acquainted the landlord with my destitute situation; he became enraged, and with loud words threatened to flog me; a gentleman being near, hearing his angry words, came up, and, on learning the cause, kindly offered to settle the bill for me—again the stranger had compassion on me. I left the house, and wandered up and down in quest of employment; finding my efforts unavailing, I directed my steps towards the wharves, where I spent much time watching the jolly tars in their labors and sports. I went from vessel to vessel, till I became perfectly enamored with the sailor's life, and I resolved to be myself a sailor, and made application to one and another for a berth; but none seemed willing to take me, probably my age, which was not yet thirteen, proved disadvantageous. I next resolved to try a country life, till such time as I could get a berth at sea, for that was now my fixed purpose.

It being now near night, I concluded to seek out the residence of some distant relatives living in the city, acquaint them of my penniless situation, and of them solicit lodgings. After searching a long time I found them, and from them received money to defray my expenses at some hotel, as their situation was such at that time, that their house was crowded to its utmost capacity. With the early morn I started for the country, fell in with a foot pedler, with whom I traveled to Farmington. During the evening, I engaged to remain with the landlord, a few weeks, for small wages. The next morning the pedler left me. During my stay there I was ever dwelling upon my future life, as a sailor.

After the lapse of a few weeks the pedler came back, and stating his determination of going to sea, persuaded me to go with him. We directed our steps towards Hartford; resolved to spare no exertions in procuring a berth. At Hartford, we visited each and every vessel. Being unsuccessful, we had almost given up the idea, when strolling along the wharf, was met by a person of gentlemanly appearance, by the name of Harris, who asked "what we were driving at?" I answered, "we are out of employment, and had been searching in vain for a berth at sea." He offering us good wages to run with him one trip to New London, we accepted. The vessel we engaged to go on was a one-masted sail boat, which he had hired for the trip. The owner not being altogether pleased with his appearance, insisted upon his taking with him one man whom he might select as boat keeper. All things being ready, we set sail, five of us in number. Had a fine passage down the river; were soon passed by the New York steamer, and while yet in sight, she run aground. When we passed her, she was exerting herself most violently to get clear. We were hailed by a gentleman from the shore, who was waiting to take passage in the steamboat. Seeing her position, he offered three dollars for a passage for himself, and the two ladies with him, to Middletown. Soon they were on board. Arrived at Middletown at 4 P. M. Having a fine breeze, we remained but a few moments; took in a boy bound to Saybrook. The gentleman concluded to go farther with us. Arrived at East Haddam about 9 P. M. Our boat possessing no convenience for lodging, we all repaired to the hotel at the expense of the master.

The next morning we started at an early hour for Saybrook, with the four passengers. The wind hauling around right ahead, obliged us to beat our way along, as best we could. We stood for Lyme, a little village opposite Saybrook, where we left our other passengers, while we took the boy over to Saybrook. After this was done, we attempted to recross the river; but, in consequence of the heavy wind from the sound, were unable; therefore we put up the river. Mr. Harris and myself amused ourselves by singing songs. A little after sunset we arrived at a little village called Petty Pog; remained during the night, by the order of Harris.

We were called at daylight; repaired to the boat, and made preparations to leave. The absence of Mr. Harris could not be accounted for until he returned, having as many lobsters as he could carry; being asked where he got them, he replied, out of a schooner which lay near; ordered all possible despatch to be made in clearing away; gathered together the stones used as ballast, and of them forming a hearth, we built a fire, and cooked our lobsters for breakfast. Arrived at East Haddam about noon; stopped at the public house; passed the afternoon very finely about the village. There were quite a number of people waiting at the hotel for the boat, to take passage for New York. The boat, in consequence of the before mentioned foundering on the bar, had put back to H—— for repairs. During the evening, conversation turned upon business topics; and each, in turn, made their respective vocations known. Harris represented himself as having drawn $20,000 in a lottery, and was then on his way to New London to receive it. He succeeded in taking a valuable gold watch from the pocket of the gentleman with whom he was mostly engaged. This accomplished, he came to me, (I was sitting on the wood box, and half asleep,) and said, are you asleep? arousing, I said, not exactly, sir, and soon sank back again. Soon the owner of the watch, wishing the time, felt for it, and, to his great astonishment, it was gone—the cry of "a thief, a thief," was raised; the whole company were struck with dismay; a search was proposed; and, as no one had left the room, it was most certain it would be found. All were obliged to undergo this searching process, save myself—my situation during the evening had been observed, and it was deemed useless. Mr. H. called me his brother; and, during this search, he was the most active, expressing much sympathy with the gentleman. Great was the consternation when it was not to be found.

As the hours, one after another, passed away, the company gradually dispersed, and half past eleven found the bar-room deserted, save by Harris, myself, and the landlord. We at length retired. On entering our room, Harris tested the quality of the fastenings of the door thoroughly; then took, to my great astonishment, the stolen watch from my pocket. I asked how it came there; in reply, he said he put it there when I was on the box. Putting a pair of pistols under his pillow, after having examined them, he remarked he should be pleased to see the man that dared disturb his slumber, and getting in bed took me in his arms. Soon we were fast asleep. Arising at an early hour the next morning, we found none up save the landlord and our boat-keeper; passed the compliments of the morning; and, as usual at those times, took a morning glass by way of preparing for breakfast. The landlord expressed much sympathy for the looser of the watch, and deeply regretted that such an occurrence should take place in his house. At this moment the gentleman entered with sad and downcast expression of countenance. Harris immediately entered into conversation with him, assuring him that the robbery would most certainly disclose itself; then I panted to give the information I was in possession of. Harris fearing something of that kind probably, would not suffer me for an instant to be from his sight; while they were talking, the boat came to the landing; the passengers left the house for the boat, Mr. H. and myself accompanying them.

During the walk to the boat, and the few moments occupied in preparing to start, Harris was talking with the looser of the watch, holding me by the hand; there seemed something pressing heavily upon his mind which gradually wore away, as the distance between him and the boat increased. Went next to our own boat; ordered the boat-keeper to have all things ready in two hours; then proceeded to the hotel; wished to see the bill, which was shown him. Harris then stated that he had a brother living about two miles distant whom he very much wished to see, and was going to his residence; said he would pay his bill when he returned, or then, if the landlord wished; the landlord assured him it would make no difference. Taking me by the hand, we left the house, and proceeded southerly; walked four miles; stopped at the farm house of one Warner. Before entering, he cautioned me against saying any thing different from what he might say; said he wanted two horses to go to New London; was in great haste, for "he had drawn $20,000 in a lottery some months previous; had not yet obtained it, as he had been long absent; had suffered shipwreck at or near the mouth of the river La Platte; himself and brother were alone saved from the wreck; our sufferings were great as imagination could picture them." Offered to pay $3 per day for two horses; and, if he could have a guide, or a person to take charge of the horses, would willingly pay for that also; he was asked many questions, which he answered very cunningly.

Soon the three horses were saddled for the journey; a son of the landlord was to accompany us; we went along quite merrily. Stopping at a hotel, Harris and myself went in, leaving Warner with the horses. Harris represented himself as belonging to a Circus company; his brother that was with him was a most beautiful rider. He even went so far as to fill out and put up some handbills, which he had previously obtained somehow; and to make arrangements necessary for an exhibition of that kind, went on our way. Came to an acquaintance of Warner's who was a manufacturer of musical instruments. Harris selected one, a dulcimer, valued at twelve dollars, and would purchase it if the gentleman would wait upon him for the pay until he could go to New London and get the money he had drawn in the lottery; this he was perfectly willing to do, Warner assuring him of the unquestionable character of the man.

We arrived at New London about five in the afternoon. Stopped at one of the principal hotels. After supper we walked out, taking the dulcimer with us, which Mr. Harris ordered me to sell for any thing I could get. I walked boldly up to two gentlemen who were talking, and offered it; they did not seem inclined to purchase. I offered it for one dollar; this was so very cheap they purchased it; taking the money, I offered it to Harris; he refused it, having money enough already he said. We walked on until we came to a large field without the limits of the city. Seated ourselves behind the stone wall which enclosed the field. Harris then took out his purse, and began counting his money; took out a large quantity of bills which he said he stole from the lady who was his passenger on the small boat. In giving a short history of his life, he said he had followed thieving for several years—two years of which time he had spent at Charlestown in the State's employment. Replacing his purse, he remarked he would have a "gold chain that night or a wooden leg!"

We started back; had gone within the limits of the city when we met Warner, who anxiously asked where we had been. "We have been looking for you this hour," says Harris. "Come, now let us go into this shop and get something to drink before going to bed." Returned to the hotel; and, as we were going in, met the gaze of the lady whom Mr. Harris had robbed on the boat; this did not in the least tend to buoy up his spirits, but rather to discomfort him. Warner left the room a moment to see to his horses, when Harris took me by the hand, and hurriedly left the house.

We proceeded up the street with a quick pace, he looking each way, as if fearful of being pursued. Again we were met by Warner, whom we supposed had, ere this, retired for the night. Without the least embarrassment, Harris says "come, go with us and get a dish of oysters," and turned into a shop, as if this course had been premeditated. While eating, Warner, by his looks, appeared as if conscious that Harris was playing a game with him. An acquaintance of his speaking to him for a moment, took his attention. Harris noticing it, immediately left the house. Went a short distance, when stopping at a jeweller's shop, said "here lies my fortune." He stationed me on the corner of the street, with strict orders to give a violent cough should any one approach. Taking a large bunch of keys from his pocket, he tried to unlock the door, and had nearly succeeded, when seeing a person (one of the watch, I think,) coming, I walked towards the door, and gave Harris the signal; but not till I was sure he was near enough to detect some mischief; he dropped his keys, seized my hand, and ran fast as possible. The man being so near, noticed something out of order, and immediately raised the cry of "A thief! a thief!" The cry was echoed from street to street, and at each corner we found new hands to give chase; but we had no fresh hands to take the position we occupied. Harris finding the pursuit growing warmer each step, let go my hand. My motive-power being thus suddenly cut off, I fell to the ground. Before I could raise myself, I was jerked to my feet by the powerful arm of Warner, who said, "you young scoundrel, why did you not inform me of his rascality before? Where is Harris?" Giving me a shake, which took me from the ground, he said, "Well, you vagabond, I have you at any rate."

I was taken before a magistrate, who, after hearing their story, ordered me kept in close custody that night, and brought before him the next day at 9 o'clock. I was taken to the hotel. The lady, hearing of my situation, expressed a strong desire to see me. Warner, unwilling to loose sight of me, accompanied me to her rooms. She, recognizing me, welcomed me with a smile. Wished all the information respecting Harris I could give of his character. Farther than the few days I had been with him, I knew nothing, except from his own mouth. She expressed much regret that one so young should be found in such company, and besought me to refrain from the course of life he was evidently pursuing. Spoke of the loss of the $750 she had sustained, supposed to have been stolen by him on the boat. I assured her of the certainty of that, as he had acknowledged it to me but a few hours before. It being now near eleven o'clock, we retired for the night. I slept but little, as might be supposed, situated as I was. Without influential friends, and in fact without friends at all to care for me—in a land of strangers—viewed as a criminal awaiting justice,—I had only one source of consolation,—conscience favored me with her smiles. I knew I was guilty of no misdemeanor, farther than having been drawn in unwittingly by one who

——"A chosen villain was at heart;
And capable of deeds that durst not seek
Repentance."

I pondered well upon my situation and destiny, and resolved strongly, (as I many times did in after years,) could I but be extricated from my present difficulty, I would return to the home of my youth to wander no more. With the earliest rays of dawn I awoke, when, in the act of arising, I woke Warner, who, half suspecting I was giving him the slip, sprang from the bed with the greatest eagerness, saying, "Well, you are now going to run away, are you, you young scamp?" I, without the least degree of excitement, calmly replied, "I am not, sir, but I think it time we were starting; for one, I wish to know my destiny." Soon the bell called to breakfast. Warner spoke to the landlord, saying, "Please keep your eye on that boy while I take breakfast," not even thinking, I suppose, I should wish any. Soon as he had gone, I asked if I could have breakfast. "Certainly," says the landlord, with emphasis, who possessed soul enough not to give the pay the least thought. Showing me to the dining-room, he gave me a seat by Warner, saying, "Look after your boy, yourself, sir." Breakfast over, we went again to the bar-room. Warner called for his bill, saying, "I don't pay for his breakfast." "I don't wish you to, sir, I yet have money," was my ready reply; and the half suppressed laugh of the standers-by vexed and mortified him extremely. Nine o'clock came, and I was marched to the police office; and, after severe questioning, Warner was told I was not the man for him, as there was nothing appeared against me, except the fact of my being with him, (Harris.) I was ordered to be kept alone for a few days to see if Harris could not be taken, in which case I should be a valuable evidence. I was taken to the hotel, and confined on the second floor. About four in the afternoon, Warner came running in, half out of breath, saying, "Harris is taken, prepare immediately for the police office." I jumped for joy, went to the office; was asked if I could swear to the prisoner at the bar to be the one who hired the horses of Warner. I replied that I could. A bill being immediately found against him, we were ordered to prison, he as a criminal, and I as evidence against him, but to separate apartments. The next morning we were taken to the office again. I was ordered upon the stand, and made to tell what I knew of the late character of Harris. The statement of Warner and the lady confirmed the statements I had made. He was ordered back to jail to await his trial at a higher court which would sit in about three weeks; I to be kept as evidence against him at said court. After a few days, I was allowed the privilege of walking about the yard; and was very kindly treated by the family of the jailer. The time passed so pleasantly that it soon was time for the sitting of the court. We were taken to the court-house, where we found the lady, her son, and daughter, the owner of the watch, and Mr. Warner. The watch, the money, and the dulcimer, were also there, and recognized by real owners. My statements, confirmed by the others, proved a verdict of guilty to him; and, at the expiration of three days, he entered upon his sentence, which was seventeen years hard labor at Wethersfield prison. I was taken by the honorable judge, whose head was frosted over by the winter of age, to his own house. Tears ran down those furrowed cheeks as he, with a father-like simplicity, pointed me to the paths of rectitude, urging me to pursue them to the end—holding up to my mind the recent case of Harris as the reward of the evil doer. Gave me my living while I remained with him, and two dollars from his own purse, and besought me to return directly to my father's roof.

I retraced my steps towards home. Stopped with Warner a short time. Was most joyously welcomed home.

I remained with my father nearly three years, having but little desire to roam; finding at length the life of a factory boy rather unpleasant, I thought again to try my luck. I was near three years older than before, besides having the experience of the former cruise. I was quite sure I was then able to take care of myself. I went to Springfield, took stage for Albany, intending to ride as far as my money would carry me. I rode about forty miles and concluded to try it on foot; had proceeded but a little way when I fell in with a Caravan; I traveled with them for small wages; came to Albany, run one trip to Rochester on a line boat, took passage to New York on a sloop, arrived there with but twenty-five cents in my purse. I resolved to depend upon charity, as in fact I was obliged to do, for my small allowance would hardly be worth mentioning in the way of living. I met two frank looking young men in the garb of sailors, and knowing something of the true character of sailors, I made known to them my situation and solicited aid. They took me to a house kept by a widow lady and ordered for me all that my necessities required, and they would see the bills settled. I remained with this good lady a day or two, she doing all she could to make me comfortable and happy. Besides her naturally good heart, she had the remembrance of her only son being out upon the tempestuous sea of life to prompt her to deeds of love and charity, having, as she hoped, the assurance that all acts of kindness shown towards the unfortunate, would be repaid by similar deeds of love and care being shown to her son. Never can forgetfulness deprive me of the fond remembrance of this kind woman. The tears trickled down her cheeks as she bade me be a good boy and besought me as I loved the mother who gave me birth, to return to her and be a solace to her declining years.

I left her, resolved to go home, proceeded to the wharves, found a vessel going to Middletown, engaged a privilege of working my passage, went on board and shoved out from the dock, but soon found that instead of nearing home I was getting still farther from it, for instead of going to Middletown, Connecticut, we were bound to a place of the same name in New Jersey. I performed the voyage with a sorrowing heart. On our arrival I went from one vessel to another, but found none bound to New York. I then concluded to go on foot, and went on my way to Brown's point, so called, with a heart near bursting with grief. I went into a house occupied by a middle aged lady, asked for lodging, it being near night and very rainy. She said, "By your looks young sir, I perceive you have been weeping; unburden your grief to me, and if in my power, I will assist you."

I told her of my situation, of the great mistake I had made, and the state of my funds, having to depend upon charity entirely, and how long I knew not, knowing of no other way of getting home, except by going on foot. She kindly offered me a share of her humble fare as long as I chose, or till some opportunity for continuing my journey offered itself. She learned that a schooner loaded with wood would sail in a few days for New York in charge of her son, on which she engaged me a passage. I bade adieu to the kind lady when ready, and sailed for New York; prosperous winds brought a speedy termination of the voyage; the Captain gave me a dollar for my services and a home on his boat as long as we might both remain in port.

Again I tried to get a berth on one of the many vessels lying at the docks, and at each of them received the same answer, "you are a runaway boy, we have no place for you." I now resolved that home was the best place for me, at least for the present, though I was altogether unwilling to abandon wholly the idea of becoming a sailor; found an opportunity of getting to East Haddam, where on my arrival, I found work for two or three months, at the expiration of which time I again started for home; was received most joyously by my friends, who entreated me to return to my wanderings no more.

Again I went to work in the mill, with the same discontentedness as before, for the desire to roam was paramount to all others, and I resolved to try my fortune in another direction. I made known my determination to a co-laborer in the mill and solicited his company; he readily accepted my proposals.

Together we shaped our course towards Boston, thinking to get a berth at sea. The harbor being frozen rendered business very dull, and we gave up the idea through compulsion. Foiled in that attempt, we started for Charlestown, having our imaginations pointing high to our future greatness as soldiers; but a visit to the Navy Yard, which occupied some sixty acres, and the barracks, the soldiers' home, dispelled the charm entirely, and we hurried from the place and went to seek our fortunes elsewhere. We came to four corners, undecided which course to steer. Setting up a stick we agreed to follow in the direction which that should fall. True to this agreement we followed its dictation, and still continued on our course into the country, though upon a different tack. Our appetites were now considerably sharpened by the excessive cold, and we cast lots which should solicit food from the hand of charity. Chance threw the task upon me. This I was willing to bear, having been inured to such situations in my former wanderings. I would gladly avoided the necessity, but such was our need of food that I broke over all feelings of delicacy and entered a good looking farm house, where we found smoking hot one of those huge dishes of baked beans so common in New England, to which we did ample justice. After dinner we went on to the small manufacturing village of Shirley. There I obtained employment. My friend finding none, was obliged to wander on towards home. I was employed three months, when a dullness of the times caused a suspension in part of the business, and I turned my face homeward again to see if the pent up village of Chicopee Falls would now hold out any inducement to my staying there. My stay in the mill was even more tedious than before, and I resolved to be there no longer. I encouraged several of my associates to go with me.

To get away with so many required some stratagem. I appointed Sunday, the first day of June, 1830, as the day for our starting. My repeated going and coming rendered the affair, as far as I was concerned, no uncommon thing, and but little was said to prevent me, supposing I was alone in it.

At the appointed time we came together and started for Hartford; arrived there the first night; put up at the hotel. In the morning while standing in front of the house, we were accosted by a person who asked, "if we wanted employment?" We assured him that we did; he said, "he had a quantity of flour which he wished removed to the store-house." That was not the business we wanted, but still we were willing to do it for the pay. We went to the store-house, and as soon as we were in he turned the key, saying he only wanted me, and that I should be soon called upon by Mr. Bird, who would be pleased to have me accompany him to Chicopee Falls. The affair was then plain to my mind; we were traced, and found, and this means had been taken to get me back. I remarked that "I should esteem it a great pleasure to ride with him, though my business arrangements were such that it would be rather inconvenient for me to go at that time." Soon Mr. Bird arrived, saying he "was ordered to tie me behind his carriage and drive home." I asked by whom ordered; he made no reply. On condition of my keeping quiet I would be allowed to ride. All things ready, he ordered me into his carriage, also taking one other of my companions with him, and drove off.

I was rather puzzled to know why such means had been taken to get me, also what would be the consequence of my behavior. We put up that night at Enfield and were treated worse than prisoners, for we were not even allowed bread and water, being sent to bed hungry. We were put in a room on the second floor, and fastened in. When all was still, we took the bed clothes, tied them in a string and attached the end to the bed post, thinking to let ourselves down from the window. Having adjusted all things, we went to the window, found it secured, and we had no means of removing the fastenings, consequently we were obliged to abandon the enterprise and submit calmly to our fate.

At early light we were called and made to get ready for the remainder of the journey, not being allowed any breakfast. On our arrival at Chicopee Falls I was given up to the tender mercies of one—— the then reigning tyrant of Chicopee Falls, occupying the station highest in the gift of the Manufacturing Corporation, viz: that of Agent. His tyranny I felt to be far more oppressive than that of any other power I was ever doomed to submit to. The remembrance of that morning scene will cling closely to my mind, when all others shall have been obliterated. Years have passed since its transaction, yet my blood almost ceases to flow when by memory I am carried back to those days. I went into the mill, but I went with a heart thirsting for revenge. My stay was short. By the first of July I had got a few dollars together, and I resolved that on the fourth I would declare myself free and independent, at least from the tyranny of——. On the morning of the fifth, at an early hour, I bade adieu to home and all I held dear, resolved that never again would I even visit the scene of my childhood. I went to Hartford, took passage to Boston, thence to New Bedford, shipped myself on board a brig bound to the coast of Africa, on a whaling expedition.

CHAPTER II.

Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them. Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes on shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treatment offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. Deceive a British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the Brazil Banks. Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vincent. Great frolic with the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail for N. Bedford. Storm in the Gulf Stream. Arrive at New Bedford.

On the 17th of July, 1830, the brig Partheon, Capt. Maxfield, weighed anchor, spread her sails to the breeze, and fast the land receded from view. I sat on deck and watched the last hill sink away in the dim distance, and the breach forever increasing between me and my native land. Then the joys of home, a mother's kind care, and a sister's fond love rushed upon my mind and I half regretted the step I had taken. For their sakes I did regret, but when the remembrance of that ill-fated morning came to my mind, I sprang to my feet determined to share my joys and sorrows with none known to me by kindred or other ties. Striving to forget the past, I went to my duty. We stood for the Azores, where we took in water and provision. Those Islands lie between Europe and America, between 36° and 39° N. Lat. and contain about 1200 square miles, and belong to the Portuguese; have a clear sky and a salubrious air, and are extremely fertile, producing wine and various fruits in great abundance; are nearly free from venomous reptiles; are supposed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. Our stay was short; stood for the Cape Verde Islands, about 15° N. Lat., off the African Coast 300 miles; are about twenty in number, though many of them are of small note, being only barren rocks uninhabitable; one of them is a mere volcano, called Fogo.

St. Jago is 150 miles in circumference, and the most fruitful, producing Indian Corn, Sugar, Cotton, Oranges, Limes, &c. A great trade is carried on in the article of Madder, which grows in great abundance among the rocks.

Praya, situated on the easterly side of the group, has a beautiful harbor, and is much visited by vessels for refreshments.

An immense business is done at the Island of Mayo, another of the same group, in making salt from the salt water, by the heat of the sun. At Spring tides it is received into a basin, or pan, formed by a sand bank, which runs for several miles along the coast.

The salt costs nothing, except the raking of it together, and taking it to the boats, which is on asses, and at a very cheap rate.

While off the Isle of St. Jago we encountered a tremendous squall, which came near throwing us upon the rocks, and would, had not we had a most skillful commander. After the wind abated we repaired the slight damage we received; cruised for whales, but with the poorest success; stood for the Brazil Banks, hoping to be more fortunate; touched at the Island of St. Thomas, which with Princes Island and Fernando Po, constitute what are termed the Guinea Group. The two first, St. Thomas and Princes Island, belong to the Portuguese; Fernando Po is occupied by the British. At Princes Island we were allowed liberty on shore; that is a privilege of one day on shore granted to one half of the crew at a time, while the remaining ones attend to the ship's duties.

We remained about these islands a few days, taking three whales only. This was about the season of the year for violent tornadoes, which greatly impeded our operations, being constantly obliged to be on lookout, and in readiness for their approach. On whale ships sail is usually shortened at sundown and the vessel hove to under stern sails. One night while we were laying to, a violent squall suddenly arose, giving us hardly a moment's warning. The rain fell in torrents, the lightning played most vividly, which rendered the darkness still deeper. In executing the order, "haul down the fore-top-mast stay-sail," the halyards became entangled. I sprang upon the windlass to extricate them; at that moment the lightning struck, shivering the fore-top-gallant-mast and fore-top-mast into a thousand atoms. The shock was sensibly felt throughout the ship, and most severely so by myself, leaving me senseless for a number of hours.

Shaped our course for St. Thomas island, where we replaced our spars with such as the country afforded, being quite an inferior article, heavy and very brittle. Our vessel being repaired, we stood for the same ground again, where we cruised two months, entirely disheartened, by our bad luck, only taking two whales.

Our water getting quite low we stood for the British Settlement on Fernando Po. We deemed it unwise to go on shore there on account of the dreadful sickness then prevailing among the inhabitants. We sailed around the island till we came to a little harbor, lowered sail, and searched for water. The boat was manned by five oars-men with the captain. As we came around a point of land, we came suddenly upon several negro families loitering upon the beach entirely naked. They did not perceive us until we were close in upon them, when they gave a loud whoop or yell which almost deafened us, and took to their heels. We ransacked their huts, found they possessed, and perhaps needed, but little, living by fishing principally.

We searched in vain for water, took to our boats again and pulled along till we came to a little bay known as North West Bay, where we saw a number of natives fishing. We kept close in shore for fear of frightening them. Before we could cut off their retreat, they saw us, gave one yell and most assiduously did they pull for the shore. We overtook one canoe; they seemed very much frightened, and made attempts to jump overboard, when we held up bits of iron and other things as presents. They suffered us to come near them; finding us friends instead of enemies, they offered us water and wine made from the Palm Tree, which possesses most an excellent flavor. Those who had considered themselves very fortunate in escaping, came back bringing fowls and palm wine which they readily exchanged for our bits of old iron. Those trifles were considered by them as possessing great value. They would hang them about their persons and dance and jump about with greatest delight. Soon as they could be made to understand the nature of our visit, they sent a man with us, who took us a little way around to a most beautiful stream of pure cold water. Dismissing our pilot we stood for our vessel which was not then visible, thinking to get the water the next morning. We pulled out of the harbor and saw our vessel hull down as it is termed, that is, nothing to be seen but the topmasts. Scarce a ripple was to be felt upon the water, so perfectly glass-like did it appear. The sun was just setting in all its splendor, casting its long beautiful rays upon the still waters, rendering our situation certainly a most enviable one. Soon as the sun's last flickering ray died upon the water, the moon pale and beautiful gladdened our hearts with her gentle rays. Caring but little to leave this fascinating spot, we pulled leisurely for the ship, reaching her at half-past ten.

The next morning we stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The natives in great numbers came on board, wishing to exchange more of their fowls and wine for the poor, worthless bits of iron and other things, which we possessed. We noticed one with both hands cut off at his wrists; and were informed, if we rightly interpreted their signs, that he was a thief, and that was one of their modes of punishment. In wishing to come on board, he threw his arms around the hauling part of the fore sheet, (a rope hanging at the ship's side) which not being fast in-board gave way with his weight, and he fell into the sea. Not one of his fellows tendered him the helping hand. Some looked on without betraying the least emotion, while others with ribaldry and mirth saw the water close over him forever. He seemed to be an object of universal contempt. Whether his thieving propensities were coupled with other misdeeds I know not.

Having obtained our supply of water and a goodly supply of provision and wine from the natives, we were allowed liberty on shore. Taking our guns with us we shot many birds. Soon as they fell the females would spring for them and pull out the largest feathers, with which to decorate their heads. In one excursion we found an old man lying on the sand suffering most intensely under the malady common to that and other African islands, also known in Brazil and other parts of South America, called the Chiger. It is supposed to be caused by an insect which deposits its eggs under the toes of the bare feet of the natives while walking in the sand, causing an inflammation, which if treated unskillfully produces an incurable sore. I have seen those with their legs swollen nearly as large as the body. The situation of the old man referred to was frightful beyond conception; his lips and cheeks were most entirely gone, leaving his jaw bone and teeth bare; his tongue and pallet, together with the roof of his mouth were also nearly consumed, rendering him speechless. With the greatest difficulty he could drag himself along; the most disagreeable odor filled the atmosphere around; no hand of sympathy was extended to him; alone and friendless he was left to die.

On our return we passed that way, and found his sorrows had an end. By the blood on the ground and marks of violence on the body, we were satisfied his miseries were brought to an end by human hands.

Went on board and stood for Princes Island, which lies about 150 miles to the southward. Saw a large sail to the windward; at once supposed her to be a British man-of-war, whose duty it is to guard against any depredations being committed by slavers or others on any foreign coast. Our captain knowing his vessel presented rather a suspicious appearance, being rigged and painted in a rakish manner, and wishing to have a little sport, made sail, as if fearing such company. This had the desired effect. They immediately set her studding sails and gave chase. The captain, to continue the joke, crowded all sail, which came near proving a joke of a serious nature to him, for the Englishman perceiving this, bellowed out in tones there was no mistaking, as a signal for us to heave to. This being unheeded, was quickly succeeded by one that told us full well of the fatal consequences of longer sporting with them. We hove to and suffered her to come up with us, and when within hail, she asked the usual questions, Who are you? Where bound? &c., &c., lowered her boat, came on board, demanded the ship's papers, also the reason why we did not heave to at the first gun; was told that at that moment a spout was seen from aloft, and it was determined to find out what kind of whale it was, found it to be a hump-back, and there she blows again. Fortunately for him a whale of that kind happened to come in sight and aided much in carrying out the joke. Finding our situation different from what he feared, he made himself very agreeable, and spent some time with us; after exchanging Oil for Rum we soon parted. In a few days squared away for Princes Island, whither we were bound; entering the harbor, found the Man-of-war lying there; had liberty on shore; spent a few days very pleasantly indeed. Got under weigh again, bound for the West Indies, with the heaviest press of sail we were able to carry. It was our intention to sight Barbadoes and run down to St. Vincent for our ship's supplies. The wind being very fair we overrun our reckoning. The night also setting very dark and foggy, we were not aware of our proximity to Barbadoes until we found our vessel going at the rate of ten knots in the midst of shipping. With greatest despatch the helm was put "hard-a-port," the studding-sail tacks and braces let go, and the vessel brought to the wind without the least harm, though great was the danger. Stood out of the harbor and made St. Vincent. After a voyage of forty days came to anchor at a small harbor commonly called the Bottle and Glass, so called from a large round rock at its mouth, which in the sun's reflection very much resembles in its general appearance a huge blue glass bottle.

It was exceedingly pleasant after a long voyage to again get liberty on shore. The captain advanced us money which we spent among the natives, giving but little restraint to our passions. We were left on shore one night for some reason with no means of getting on board, also without money and without shelter, for soon as our money was gone, it was no object for the people to shelter us. Some of the company proposed swimming, and suiting the action to the words, stripped their clothes, lashed them to their backs and started, but soon returned, sick of the undertaking. There being a house (if the huts of the natives can be called houses) near where we had spent some of our money, we concluded to try their generosity. We knocked, but received no answer. It was then proposed to wait upon ourselves in. I was chosen leader; laid hold of the boards on the side of the house, sung a song, and with the chorus giving a "long pull, a strong pull and a pull altogether," away she came, and we walked in. (It will be borne in mind the houses are built slightly indeed, consequently our task was not very heavy.) On our entrance, the old lady yelled out "My God, ye Buckra (white) man no stop come in do (door) pull'e side house down."

As I had been chosen leader, or captain, I found the liquor, which was in a huge jug, and took possession of that, set myself on the floor by the jug and dealt out as their several cases demanded. There we spent the night, singing, dancing, and as a common accompaniment, drinking.

With the morning came the constable, who took us off to jail with as little ceremony as we walked into the hut. The captain hearing of our confinement came and paid five dollars each, as a fine, and took us back, we thinking that we had one of the finest times imaginable.

Got ready for sea the next day, called all hands, found one man missing. What became of him we never knew. We cruised about the islands two or three weeks for whales; the same poor success which we experienced on other grounds attended us here, and sick at heart we turned our course towards New Bedford, with only 250 barrels Oil, when we should have had full ship. Our ship was capable of holding 750 barrels.

In the gulf stream we encountered a tremendous gale from the north east, which contending with the strong current which ran in a contrary direction, (from the south west,) caused a very high and irregular sea. We shortened sail and ran the vessel as long as possible. The night set in so extremely dark that we were unable to distinguish one object from another, only by the lightning's flash. I remained at the wheel from eight to twelve, P. M. At one time a heavy sea suddenly struck us upon our quarter, breaking the davits, (by which the boats are hoisted) sweeping the boat across the deck, bursting the bulwarks off and buried me up to the middle in water. I felt as if I was alone upon deck, for surely no one could possibly be there who was not previously lashed. The wretchedness of the situation the pen cannot picture. At length I felt a hand laid heavily upon me, at the same time the well known voice of the captain cries, "who has the helm?" "Bill, sir," says I. An extra man was offered me at the helm if I wished. This I declined, feeling desirous of preserving the strength of the crew, if possible, for greater emergencies. I left the helm at twelve o'clock and went below. At four all hands were called to make sail, the wind having abated, though the sea rolled so very heavily, that the vessel was in great danger of being dismasted. At noon all possible sail was made. During the night we saw Cape Hatteras light, found ourselves rather nearer than prudence would permit, as it is one of the most dangerous places in the known world, hauled our wind and stood off from the shore. We crowded all sail possible, and reached New Bedford about the first of April, having been absent nine months.

No sooner had I stepped on my own native soil, than home with all its allurements presented itself to my mind. I well knew the joy my return would bring to those patents from whose roof I had thus long absented myself, and I was almost persuaded to forsake the sailor's hard and bitter lot and turn again to the home of my youth, and wander no more. But then my mind would revert to the reception I met with on my last return, and I resolved to redeem the pledge made when I last left home.

Not having cleared my expenses I was left with no alternative save going to sea again, and I engaged to go on board the same vessel again, under the command of Charles Hammen who was mate of her the previous voyage. While the ship was fitting for the voyage I run one trip to Baltimore, on board the brig Henry, Captain Taber, mate, Coleman, with oil. Returned laden with flour. This incident in itself considered is of little note; but the circumstance of my becoming acquainted with those men, particularly the mate, afterwards, as will be seen, proved of the greatest importance to me.

CHAPTER III.

Sail from New Bedford. The Crew are put upon allowance. Reach the Azores. Proceed to the Brazil Banks. Return to the African coast. Great fear arises from breakers. Prove to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives who come to the ship. Their awful appearance. Serious difficulty arises with one of the crew, who is put on shore. Cruise about for whale. Trade with the natives of St. Thomas. Procure two monkeys, who render much service in killing cockroaches. The treatment given the crew at Fernando Po. Kindly interference of British officers. The crew are obliged to catch their own provision. Sail for home. I take a few flying fish, which the captain claims as his. Threw them into the sea. Great rage of the Captain. Reach New Bedford. The sailors leave the Captain to secure the sails.

With prosperous winds we cleared the harbor. Spread all canvass to the breeze, and soon our native land was seen only in the distance. For a length of time, every thing passed finely and promised a happy voyage; but we were doomed to disappointment and sorrow. Our commander, conscious of the authority vested in him, put it in force. We were first put upon allowance of only one pound of bread, and one half pound of meat. This caused but little murmuring; each confined his sorrows to his own bosom, and did his master's bidding with the strictest care; and would have remained so had our sorrows ended there. The master was often heard to say it would not do to give us even as great an allowance as he then did, for we were, like highly fed horses, quite unmanageable.

We touched at the Azores, or western islands, and took on a fresh supply of provisions—such as potatoes, onions, &c. Thence to the isle of Saul, of the Cape Verdes group, where we spent a day and night; got a quantity of fish and sea-fowl eggs. At St. Mary's, of the same group, we proposed leaving one of the crew who was sick on board; but the consul would not receive him, consequently, we were obliged to keep him, and do the best we could. Here we were attended with the same poor success that had characterized this and the former voyage.

Sick at heart at our poor luck, we steered for the coast of Brazil. We made the coast about the first of January, where we cruised until the last of the month, without any profit at all; and again squared away for the African coast. Made the island of Anoben, which lies to the southwest of St. Thomas, and also belongs to Portugal. At this place we learned, by an American trader which we spoke, of a large company of pirates who had been driven ashore a few months previous. They had a large boat, and lay secreted in some of the rivers or creeks until the near approach of some ship, when they would rush out from their hiding place, and seize upon the ship before the crew were fully aware of their danger. They had already secured to themselves many valuable cargoes. As might be expected from receiving such information, we gave the island a "wide berth;" cruised away to the northward, and touched at Princes island. We cruised among the group for a length of time.

One night, in the gulf of Biafra, between Fernando Po and the main land, we as usual had shortened sail. The current drifted us nearer shore than we were aware. The man aloft cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." The lead was cast, and no bottom found. The man aloft again cried, "Breakers off the lee beam." Again the lead was cast 100 fathoms; yet it found no resting place. "Breakers off the lee beam" was the continued cry. On a still nearer approach, we found the reported breakers to be an innumerable number of canoes filled with natives, singing and shouting loudly, coming with great speed towards our vessel. Considering them enemies, we set about making our defence as strong as possible with the poor supply of arms usually carried on whale ships. When within about 300 yards they stopped, seemingly in consultation. Soon, one of their number set off for the vessel. When he came alongside, we showed him our arms. He held up elephant teeth; signifying that he came as a trader, and not an enemy. We suffered him to come on board. He was a very large man, seeming to possess great muscular strength, and nearly naked. In his ears, nose, around his neck, wrists, and ankles, were gold and ivory rings. Going on the quarter deck, he gave a sharp, shrill whistle as a signal to his comrades; in an instant every paddle was in motion, beating time to their wild songs. Soon they were at our ship's sides. We would allow only a few on board at a time. Never, in the whole course of my wanderings, have I seen man presenting so terrific an appearance,—they were scarred from head to foot in a most brutal manner. Whether this was done in actual wars or not I am unable to determine; but, as they were nearly all so, I thought it must have been done among themselves, that they might appear thus frightful. Their teeth, which were of the purest white, were filed sharp, resembling the teeth of a saw. We traded with them, taking a few teeth, and a small quantity of gold dust. The breeze freshened a little, and they left us. The first one that came was the last to leave. After the others were a little way from the ship he threw his canoe (which he brought on board when he came) over, then jumped after it, and pulled for the shore.

We lay five days becalmed within a few miles of the shore. Sometimes towing our vessel with boats, at other times, getting a little breeze, we would take all possible advantage of it. Still we gained but little. At last the wind favoring us, we conquered the current, and stood away for St. Thomas, where we went on shore. An Irishman, one of the number, who was naturally a very bad man, procured some spirits with a shirt which he took with him, which rendered him a perfect demon. According to his own statement, he had been a term of years on board of pirate vessels. At any rate he had had many a skirmish, for he was literally scarred from head to foot. When the boat came along side, he called the Captain many hard names of which he took but little notice, knowing his situation, and went below to be clear of him. Jack took a pike, (an instrument of pointed iron, used to handle blubber with,) and threw it with great force at a pig. Missing his aim, it lodged in the bulwarks. The Captain heard the noise, and came immediately upon deck to learn the cause. On inquiring who threw it, Jack stepped up, and promptly said, "I, sir, and what are you a going to do about it." The Captain ordered him put in irons; but the officers found it no small undertaking, for he was quite at home in such skirmishes. He went below, and endeavored to influence the crew to join him in seizing the officers, and taking command of the vessel; but in this he was unsuccessful. The cook informed the officers of his proceedings, and they seized upon all of the arms, spades, boarding knives, &c., belonging to the vessel, and remained under arms during the night. Then most vividly must the treatment the Captain had given his crew come before his mind. He had done nothing to gain their confidence and respect, but rather to the contrary, much to excite their hatred towards him. At the moment when he most needed their sympathy and aid, he had nothing to expect, or even hope at their hands, but stern retaliation. Pent up, as he was, within the narrow confines of a whale ship, where the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, knowing of no one among his crew whom he could call his friend, must have rendered his situation one not in the least degree enviable. But hardened and reckless as all sailors are usually called, his crew were actuated by higher and better motives. The presumptuous insinuations of Jack were instantly repelled. No one for a single moment entertaining the idea. Rather than raise a hand against him, to whom they had pledged their fidelity, although he had been guilty of a nonconformance on his part, they, one and all, would even suffer the horrors of starvation, which, by his decree, were then seemingly before them. It was hoped and expected that this moment of trial being over, he would do something to ameliorate our condition, and secure to himself that confidence so highly necessary to every commander.

The next morning Jack was called upon quarter deck. The Captain asked him what he meant by such abuse as he had given the previous evening. He, in reply, shaking his clenched fist in his face, said he had made food for sharks of many a better man than him, and such would be his fate should he remain long on board. His choice was given him between public flogging and leaving the ship. He chose to be set on shore, saying he was not born to be flogged on board a whale ship, threatening to kill the Captain before he left.

A boat was lowered away under charge of the second mate, into which he was ordered with his effects, the Captain and other officers standing by under arms. When we reached the shore he bade each an adieu in turn; shouldered his bundle, and started for the woods; and we knew no more of him.

We remained at the island several days. Bought several monkeys of the small kind, which, beside the amusement they afforded, rendered themselves of much service in ridding the ship of cockroaches with which it was swarmed. The service thus rendered the sailor proves to them their own destruction, for they cannot live many weeks after eating them. The cockroach is a very troublesome insect which gets into vessels, and oftentimes attacks the sleeping sailor, eating the dead skin from the feet and hands. The bite is attended with much pain, leaving the flesh tender for a long time.

Some difficulty arose between the officers and crew which terminated in hard words. The Captain swearing that, as our leader was gone, we should feel his power. Our already small allowance was lessened one half. This our natures could not submit to. When we were wanted to go in the boats we were scarce able to work the oars. This called out the worst abuse the Captain could invent. We made Fernando Po, an English island, and took on wood, which we did by carrying it on our shoulders, and wading in water to our middle, a man being placed over us, who exercised his authority with scarce less severity than a Brazilian slave driver. An English man-of-war being at anchor there, and seeing us thus driven, sent her boats along side, and ordered us all to our ship. The mate, who had us in charge, feeling affronted that his orders should be put at nought, hesitated about complying with the order; but, seeing their determination to be obeyed, ordered us to the ship. A lieutenant accompanied us; and, when on board, sent other hands to discharge the boats, and ordered our clothes changed soon as possible. After severely reproving the Captain for thus exposing our lives in that climate, and in the sickly season, too, he left the ship.

The next day we were allowed liberty on shore; passed a burial ground, and saw eight or ten open graves, fitted receptacles for the victims of yellow fever, who were falling almost momentarily. Four months previous to this time, a regiment of 850 soldiers were sent from England, of which only fifteen then remained; and of the thirty females who accompanied them, none were left to tell their sad fate. Some of the scenes to which I was witness, were horrid beyond degree. It seemed to attack more generally, and with greater virulence, those of intemperate habits; and amid such scenes men would go to the intoxicating bowl, lay down to move no more, and, in a few hours, be in a state of putrefaction. I saw on one occasion a funeral procession (of a boatswain who had died intoxicated) which consisted of only six men, and all of them drunk, staggering their way along to the grave-yard. In ascending a small hill the coffin fell from their shoulders; the corpse broke its rude boards, and rolled part way down the hill. They carried the coffin to the top, then placed the body in, and with oaths and imprecations went on their way.

Gladly we left this place so wretched, and proceeded to St. Thomas. Took on a few yams, hogs, &c. Spoke a trader, of whom we procured a quantity of dried turtle; but little of it fell to the poor seamen. We still remained upon allowance. The fear which the officers were under in the affair of Jack had entirely subsided, leaving our situation no better than before.

A new barrel of beef was opened one day for the officers which was much hurt. It was thought to be good enough for the seamen, and another opened for the officers. The meat when cooked was worse than before, and we presumed to show it to the Captain, who flew into a rage, and said if he could get any that was worse we should eat it. We got some lines and caught a few fish. The Captain finding we were like to live well that way, took our allowance of pork from us, which obliged us to eat our fish boiled, and without salt. Thus we spent seven months, most anxiously wishing for a termination of the voyage.

We stood away for the Azores. The Captain wishing to get a man to fill the place of the one left, tried to steal a Portuguese soldier; had him secreted on board; but was found out, and fined $200. This enraged him, and severity was our lot in consequence. His haste in leaving that place was great. We had been out only about twelve hours, when heavy squalls from the northeast struck us. The wind increased. We lay to, under a storm try-sail, fourteen days. During this time we were kept picking oakum, having but six hours rest. The Captain endeavored the while to teach us the value of true, heart-felt thankfulness. As the wind abated, we spread sail for New Bedford. Happy, indeed, were we to learn that home was our next point to be reached. We were kept on allowance during the passage which occupied 60 days. We caught and eat porpoises to satisfy the demands of hunger. Those acquainted with the article can form some idea of our misery.

One night, in the gulf stream, a number of flying fish came on board, which I took, and was preparing for my breakfast, when the Captain came along, saying "you have had fine luck. Think you have got enough for my breakfast?" and at the same time called the cook to take them. I seized the pail and threw them overboard, "saying you shall not have them any how." His rage knew no bounds; he called me every thing which he could find words to utter. I reminded him of the speedy termination of the voyage. He could find no way to punish this insolence as he called it. Finally, he set us all scrubbing the deck with sand, although it rained so hard that it kept one man constantly putting it on. Stopping the scupper, the rolling of the vessel would wash the water and sand from one side to the other. We were obliged to rub from 7 to 12 o'clock; then to dinner, (if boiled porpoise and bread can be called dinner,) back again to scrubbing, and thus we finished the day.

The next day we spoke the ship Boston, Capt. Reed, of Fair Haven, bound to Brazil, whaling; they offered us provisions, which our Captain refused, probably thinking it economy for his men to catch their own. In a few days we saw land, took on a pilot; soon came to anchor. As is always the case, seamen's duty is done the moment the anchor is let go, though they usually stow the sails; but the moment the anchor was cast we took our things, put them in a boat to go ashore, leaving the sails hanging to the yards. The Captain begged of us to stow them. We told him we had been with him long enough, and were now happily free from his authority; and that it would give us much pleasure to see him stow them himself. He was soon leaving the ship himself; for the owners came on board, and ordered him, and all that he had, out of the ship immediately, or it would go overboard. Thus terminated my second voyage with still poorer success than my former one, having taken only 150 barrels sperm, and 10 black fish oil, after a voyage of nearly 13 months. This voyage, like the first, left me in debt, and with no other way, seemingly, than to again try and see what another voyage would do. I went to the boarding house without a cent in my pocket.

CHAPTER IV.

Sail on board the Huntress, bound for the Pacific, on a whaling Expedition. Encounter a heavy Storm. A Man lost. Reach the Falklands. Description of them. Storm at the Cape. Icebergs. Island of Juan Fernandez. Arrive at the Sandwich Islands. A Sketch of them.

I shipped myself on board the Huntress, Capt. Post, then fitting for a cruise to the Pacific. We set sail from New Bedford, 1832, August 3d. About the middle of the month a violent gale arose from the southeast. We stowed our top-gallant-sails; reefed our top-sails; furled our main course, and stood to the eastward. The gale increasing, we were obliged to furl our fore and mizen top-sails, jib and spankers, and heave our ship to under close reefed main-top-sail, fore-sail, and fore-top-mast, main and mizen stay-sail. Thus we ran many hours. The wind subsiding in a degree, enabled us to run quarterly with the wind, with fore-top-mast studding-sail set. Most of the hands were below when the ship fetched a lurch and roll at the same time, with a head sea, carrying the fore-top-mast in three pieces, and the top-gallant-mast; springing the main and mizen top-mast; throwing one man who was aloft into the water. A boat was lowered, but no trace of him found save his hat. By the blood on the rigging, it was thought he received serious injury before he reached the water. All hands were called, and the wreck cleared fast as possible.

Most of our crew were new hands; and out of 30 men only six were found who could go aloft with any degree of usefulness in rough weather. Having spare spars, we were soon rigged again. Made the Azores. Took one whale from which we got 60 barrels of oil. We also replaced our spars; got potatoes, onions, oranges, &c., from them. We touched at Cape Verdes; got hogs, goats, &c.; then shaped our course for the Falkland islands, "so denominated by the English, in 1639, in honor, it is supposed of Lord Viscount Falkland. The soil is bad, and the climate is disagreeable, and the shores are beaten with perpetual storms. Nothing but reeds and moss cover the ground. The sky is perpetually concealed from view by thick fogs. The extreme cold cannot be alleviated by fire, as there is neither wood or coal; and even a ship in port is covered with constant snow. The shores are frequented, however, by considerable quantities of sea-fowl and fish. The penguins, called swans by the Spaniards, supply a scanty and miserable food. Walruses, and others of the seal kind, abound.

"The history of the disputes between Great Britain and Spain, concerning these miserable islands, furnishes another of the evidences of the necessity of the study of geography among statesmen, as nothing but a complete geographical ignorance concerning them, could have raised such an unnecessary alarm on both sides."

We left the Falklands to double the cape. A few days after, a heavy wind arose from the north. We shortened sail as the gale increased, until we come down to close reefed main-top-sail, scudding the ship for four days. The sea ran most fearfully high, throwing the water in at one side, and putting it out at the other. While the ship was thus laboring, we were ordered to lighten her top hamper, by sending down the fore and mizen top-gallant and main royal yards. While another and myself were in the act of lowering the main royal yard the ship rolled very quick and heavy. I missed my hold and falling, struck on the main-top-sail reef tackle, which was very tight and fast. I struck on my side, turned a complete somerset, fell again, and thrust my legs between the shrouds and ratline, and there hung. The mate hearing the rigging shake, cried out, "who is there?" I answered some way, scarce knowing how. He, knowing my voice, came running to help me to the deck, when I fainted and fell. He picked me up, and placed me on the after hatchway. At that moment a tremendous sea struck the vessel, carrying the mate and myself into the lee scupper. Assistance being at hand, we were taken out, and I carried to the cabin. It was sometime before I came to my senses. Found three of my ribs broken, and bruised much elsewhere. I was carried into the forecastle, where I remained suffering most extremely for a long time; and have hardly, I may say, recovered from the effects to the present day. The gale continued with unabated fury. The latitude being nearly run out, the ship was hove to with her head to the west. There we lay drifting four weeks. Fell in with mountains of ice, commonly known as icebergs, of vast dimensions, and of almost every form. An estimate was made of the size of one supposed to be the largest seen. It seemingly was an hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high; and, as is a fact, the volume of ice is to that of sea water as 10 to 9, consequently the ice, which rises above the water, is to that which sinks below as 1 to 9. Then allowing this mass to have been 150 feet above the water, and of regular shape, it would sink below the surface about 1350 feet, making a huge mass of some 1500 feet high. Capt. Cook, in his voyage in 1773, describes one as being 600 feet high above the water, making, as he estimated, 5,400 feet to be its entire height. "And yet," says Cook, "the sea broke over them." They exhibited for a few moments a view very pleasing to the eye; but a sense of danger soon filled the mind with horror; for had the ship struck against the weather side of one of those islands, when the sea ran high, she would instantly have been dashed in pieces.

At length these islands became as familiar to those on board as the clouds and the sea. Whenever a strong reflection of white was seen on the skirts of the sky, near the horizon, then ice was sure to be encountered. Notwithstanding which, the substance was not entirely white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the sea, with a most beautiful sapphirine, or rather beryline blue, evidently reflected from the water. This blue color sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the surface, and was probably produced by particles of sea water, which had been dashed against the mass in tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into its interstices. In the evening, the sun setting just behind one of these masses, tinged its edges with gold, and reflected on the entire mass a beautiful suffusion of purple. In the larger masses were frequently observed shades or casts of white, lying above each other in strata, sometimes of six inches, and at other times of a foot in height.

This appearance seemed to confirm the opinion entertained relative to the increase and accumulation of such huge masses of ice, by heavy falls of snow at different intervals; for snow being of various kinds, small grained, and large grained, in light feathery locks, &c., the various degrees of compactness may account for the various colors of strata. The approximation of several fields of ice, of different magnitudes produces a very singular phenomenon.

The smaller of these masses are forced out of the water, and thrown on the larger ones, until at length an aggregate is formed of a tremendous height. These accumulated bodies of ice float in the sea like so many rugged mountains, and are continually increased in height by the freezing of the spray of the sea, and the melting of the snow which falls on them.

The collision of great fields of ice, in high latitudes is attended by a noise, which for a time, takes away the sense of hearing any thing beside; and that of the smaller fields, with a grinding of unspeakable horror.

The water which dashes against the mountainous ice, freezes into an infinite variety of forms, and presents to the admiring view of the voyager, ideal towns, streets, churches, steeples, and almost every form which imagination can picture to itself.

Our course was very much impeded by immense fields of low ice, the extent of which could scarcely be seen; these low fields, called the meadows, are the sporting grounds of seals, and often hundreds are seen at a time frolicking on them. After passing six weeks in dodging the ice, the wind favored us, and we shaped our course for the island of Juan Fernandez, which lies off the coast of Chili, about 350 miles, is inhabited by a few Spaniards, and is famous as having been the solitary residence of Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, whose singular adventure gave rise to a novel known as the adventures of Robinson Crusoe. We spent a few days on shore getting goats, potatoes, fruit, &c., for the ship; from thence we stood for the Sandwich Islands, and came to anchor at Hawaii about the first of April.

Stewart in his Geographical sketch of them, says:—"The Sandwich Islands are situated in the Pacific ocean, between 18° 50' and 22° 20' north latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15', west longitude from Greenwich. They are about 2800 miles distant from the coast of Mexico, on the east; about 5000 from the shores of China, on the west; and 2700 from the Society Islands on the south.

"The Islands are ten in number, stretching, as may be seen from a chart, in a flattened curve, E. S. E., and W. N. W. in the following order: Hawaii, Maui, Molokini, Kahulawe, Lanai, Molokai, Oahu, Kauai, Nihan, and Kaula.

"Hawaii, the most southern and eastern island, is the largest of the group. It is about ninety-seven miles long, and seventy-eight broad, covering a surface of 4000 square miles, and containing 85,000 inhabitants.

"Maui lies northwest from Hawaii, and is separated from it by a channel twenty-four miles wide. This island formed by two mountainous peninsulas, connected by a narrow neck of low land, is forty-eight miles long, and at its greatest width twenty-nine miles wide. It covers about 600 square miles, and is supposed to have a population of 20,000 people.

"Molokini is a barren rock, rising only fifteen or twenty feet above the level of the ocean, at a distance of four or five miles from the western shore of the southern peninsular of Maui. Kahulawe lies in the same direction from Maui, six or eight miles beyond Molokini. It is only eleven miles long, and eight broad, and has but few inhabitants.

"Lanai is situated twenty miles northwest from Kahulawe, and ten or twelve miles directly west from the northern peninsula of Maui. It is seventeen miles long and nine broad, covering about 110 square miles, with a population of 2000 or 3000.

"Molokai lies west-north-west from Maui, and is separated from it by a channel ten miles wide. A passage of about the same width divides it on the south from Lanai. Molokai is forty miles long and seven broad, covering 170 square miles, and containing three or four thousand inhabitants.

"Oahu lies twenty-seven miles northwest from Molokai; is forty-six miles in length, and twenty-three in breadth, with a surface of 520 square miles, and a population of 20,000. It affords the best harbor in the group, and is the most fertile and beautiful of the islands.

"Kauai is seventy-five miles northwest from Oahu. It is thirty-three miles long, and twenty-eight broad, covering 520 square miles, and has about 10,000 inhabitants.

"Nihan lies southwest from Kauai fifteen miles, and is twenty miles long and seven broad. The number of its inhabitants is small. Kaula, situated seventeen miles southwest of Nihan, like Molokini, is an uninhabited rock, visited only for the eggs of sea fowl which frequent it in great numbers, and there hatch their young.

"These islands were discovered in the year 1778, by Captain James Cook, of the British Navy, and from him in honor of Earl Sandwich, the first lord of the admiralty, received the name by which they are at present designated. The tragical and lamented death of this celebrated navigator at Hawaii, in the succeeding year, caused their existence to be made known to the civilized world, with an excitement of feeling that deeply stamped the event on the public mind. No foreign ship visited the group again until the year 1786, when the ill-fated La Perouse touched at Maui; and about the same time two vessels, engaged in the trade of the North-west Coast, procured refreshments at the island of Oahu. These were early succeeded by several others; and in 1792 and 1794, by the expedition under the command of Vancouver."

After having secured a sufficient quantity of provision, we were allowed liberty on shore; this liberty to one who had been shut up within the confines of a ship, was indeed exhilarating.

In one of our rambles we fell in with a native, with whom we bargained for a dinner. He immediately sat himself about it. When cooked, it was served up in a calabash, or gourd; we seated ourselves upon the ground, around the dishes, and commenced operation; all were particularly fond of the meat which he had furnished, yet knew not what it was; on inquiry, we were told in broken English, "poy-poy," at the same time he gave a most knowing kind of a laugh. We then half suspected foul play, and again sternly interrogating him as to the kind of meat, received in reply, "cow, cow," which signified dog. Each looked at the other, scarce knowing what to do. Some began vomiting; as for myself, I relished it, while supposing it something else; and at that late hour thought it folly to make much ado about it. The joke was often referred to quite to the discomfiture of those upon whom it was forced.

We were next allowed liberty of forty-eight hours on shore, which we improved by visiting the volcano of Kilauea.

As this volcano was visited in the year 1825, by Lord Byron, S. C. Stewart, and other distinguished and scientific gentlemen, accompanied by the officers and crew of his majesty's ship Blonde, with an escort of one hundred natives, I would refer my readers to a description given by Stewart, believing it to be the most graphic ever given, which will be found in the following chapter.

CHAPTER V.

Description of the Volcano of Kilauea, at Hawaii.

Every preparation having been previously made, we left the harbor shortly after sunrise. The uncommon beauty of the morning proved a true omen of the delightful weather with which we were favored during the whole of our absence. The rich coloring of Mounakea in the early sun, never called forth higher or more general admiration. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the air, the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, excited a buoyancy of spirit favorable to the accomplishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between us and the object of our journey.

For the first four miles the country was open and uneven, and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, and single trees of the bread fruit, pandanus, and candle tree. We then came to a wood, four miles in width, the outskirts of which exhibited a rich and delightful foliage. It was composed principally of the candle tree, whose whitish leaves and blossoms afforded a fine contrast to the dark green of the various parasitical plants which hung in luxuriant festoons and pendants from their very tops to the ground, forming thick and deeply shaded bowers round their trunks. The interior was far less interesting, presenting nothing but an impenetrable thicket, on both sides of the path. This was excessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of loose and pointed pieces of lava, which from their irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore our shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles. The high brake, ginger, &c., which border and overhung the path, were filled with the rain of the night, and added greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleasantness of the walk. An hour and a half, however, saw us safely through, and refreshing ourselves in the charming groves with which the wood was here again bordered. The whole of the way from this place to within a short distance of the volcano, is very much of one character. The path, formed of black lava, so smooth in some places as to endanger falling, and still showing the configuration of the molten stream as it had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, leads midway through a strip of open uncultivated country, from three to five miles wide, skirted on both sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered with fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of the whortleberry. The fruit of this, of the size of a small gooseberry, and of a bright yellow color, tinged on one side with red, was very abundant, and though of insipid taste, refreshing from its juice. There are no houses near the path, but the thatch of a cottage was occasionally observed peeping from the edge of the wood; and here and there the white smoke of a kindling fire curled above the thick foliage of the trees. Far on the right and west, Mounaloa and Mounakea were distinctly visible; and at an equal distance, on the left, and east, the ocean, with its horizon—from the height at which we viewed it, mingling with the sky.

We dined thirteen miles from the bay, under a large candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by a party of people who had been waiting by the wayside to see the "alii nui mai Perekania mai," the great chief from Britain. About two miles farther we came to the houses erected for our lodgings the first night. Thinking it, however, too early to lie for the day, after witnessing a dance performed by a company from the neighboring settlements, we hastened on, intending to sleep at the next houses, ten miles distant; but night overtaking us before we reached them, just as darkness set in we turned aside a few rods to the ruins of two huts, the sticks only of which remaining. The natives, however, soon covered them with fern, the leaves of the Kukui, &c., a quantity of which they also spread upon the ground, before spreading the mats which were to be our beds.

Our arrival and encampment produced quite a picturesque and lively scene; for the islanders, who are not fond of such forced marches as we had made during the day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, and proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations for the night.

The darkness, as it gathered round us, rendered more gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty of our situation still more striking.

Behind the huts, in the distance, an uplifted torch of the blazing kukuinut here and there indistinctly revealed the figures and costume of many, spreading their couches under the bushes in the open air; the more curious of our dusky companions, both male and female, meanwhile pressing in numbers round our circle, as if anxious to "catch the manners living as they rose."

A large fire of brush wood, at some distance in front, exhibited the objects of the foreground in still stronger lights and shadows. Groups of both sexes, and all ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped up from the chillness of the evening air, in their large kiheis or mantles, of white, black, green, yellow, and red.

Some smoking, some throwing in, and others snatching from the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of food; some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call of a straggler just arriving; others wholly taken up with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our suppers, and all chattering with the volubility of so many magpies.

By daylight the next morning we were on the road again.

At nine o'clock we passed the last houses put up for our accommodation on the way; and at eleven o'clock had arrived within three miles of the object of our curiosity.

For the last hour the scenery had become more interesting; our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves and clusters of trees, and fringed with a greater variety of vegetation. Here also the smoke from the volcano was first discovered, settling in light fleecy clouds to the southwest.

Our resting place at this time was a delightful spot, commanding a full view of the wide extent of country over which we had traveled, and beyond and around it, the ocean, which, from the vast and almost undistinguished extent of its horizon, seemed literally an "illimitable sea."

The smooth greensward, under the shade of a majestic acacia, almost encircled by thickets of a younger growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to take our luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried but a few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object before us.

The nearer we approached, the more heavy the columns of smoke appeared, and roused to intenseness our curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of this excitement, we hastened forward with rapid steps, regardless of the heat of a noonday sun, and the fatigue of a walk of thirty-six miles, already accomplished.

A few minutes before twelve o'clock, we came suddenly on the brink of a precipice, one hundred and fifty or two hundred feet high, covered with shrubbery and trees. Descending this by a path almost perpendicular, we crossed a plain half a mile in width, enclosed, except in the direction we were going, by the cliff behind us, and found ourselves a second time on the top of a precipice four hundred feet high, also covered with bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept off to the right and left, enclosing in a semi-circular form, a level space about a quarter of a mile broad; immediately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our search, emitting volumes of vapor and smoke; and laboring and groaning as if in inexpressible agony from the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom. We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance. Then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height, and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater.

There are scenes, to which description, and even painting can do no justice, and in conveying any adequate impression of which they must ever fail. Of such, an elegant traveler rightly says, "the height, the depth, the length, the breadth, the combined aspect, may all be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will remain untouched by the emotions of admiration and sublimity which the eye-witness experiences." That which here burst on our sight was emphatically of this kind, and to behold it without singular and deep emotion, would demand a familiarity with the more terrible phenomena of nature which few have the opportunity of acquiring. Standing at an elevation of one thousand five hundred feet, we looked into a black and horrid gulf, not less than eight miles in circumference, so directly beneath us that, in appearance, we might by a single leap have plunged into its lowest depth. The hideous immensity itself, independent of the many frightful images which it embraced, almost caused an involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But when to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various unnatural and fearful noises, the muttering and sighing, the groaning and blowing, the every agonized struggling of the mighty action within—as a whole it is too horrible! And for the first moment I felt like one of my friends, who on reaching the brink, recoiled and covered his face, exclaiming, "call it weakness, or what you please, but I cannot look again."

It was sufficient employment for the afternoon simply to sit and gaze on the scene, and though some of our party strolled about, and one or two descended a short distance into the crater, the most of our number deferred all investigation until the next morning.

From what I have already said, you will perceive that this volcano differs in one respect from most others of which we have accounts. The crater instead of being the truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in an upland country, near the base of the mountain Monnaloa—approached not by ascending a cone, but by descending two vast terraces; and not visible from any point at a greater distance than half a mile, a circumstance, which, no doubt, from the suddenness of the arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from the brink. It is probable that it was originally a cone, but assumed its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, from the falling in of the whole summit. Of this, the precipices we descended, which entirely encircle the crater in circumferences, of fifteen and twenty miles, give strong evidence. They have unquestionably been formed by the sinking of the mountain, whose foundations had been undermined by the devouring flames beneath. In the same manner one half of the present depth of the crater has at no very remote period been formed. About midway from the top a ledge of lava, in some places only a few feet, but in others many rods wide, extends entirely round, at least as far as an examination has been made; forming a kind of gallery—to which you can descend, in two or three places, and walk, as far as the smoke, settling at the south end, will permit. This offset bears incontestible marks of having once been the level of the fiery flood, now boiling in the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, by some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, and sunk the abyss many hundred feet to its present depth. The gulf below contains probably not less than sixty—fifty-six have been counted—smaller conical craters, many of which are in constant action. The tops and sides of two or three of these are covered with sulphur, of mingled shades of yellow and green, with this exception, the ledge and every thing below it are of a dismal black. The upper cliffs, on the northern and western sides, are perfectly perpendicular, and of a red color, everywhere exhibiting the scarred marks of former powerful ignition. Those on the eastern side are less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, of a delicate and beautiful yellow. The south end is wholly obscured by smoke, which fills that part of the crater, and spreads widely over the surrounding horizon. As the darkness of night gathered round us, new and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after fire, which the glare of mid-day had entirely concealed, began to glimmer on the eye with the first shades of evening, and as the darkness increased, appeared in such rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty lighting of the lamps of a city on the sudden approach of a gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters nearest to us were in full action, every moment casting out stones and ashes, and lava, with heavy detonations, while the irritated flames accompanying them, glared widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides of the ledge and upper cliffs, richly illuminating the volumes of smoke at the south end, and occasionally casting a bright reflection on the bosom of a passing cloud. The great seat of action, however, seemed to be at the southern and western end, where an exhibition of ever-varying fire-works was presented, surpassing in beauty and sublimity all that the ingenuity of art ever devised. Rivers of fire were seen rolling in splendid corruscation among the laboring craters, and on one side a whole lake, whose surface constantly flashed and sparkled with the agitation of contending currents.

Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued it was near midnight before we gave ourselves rest, often interrupted during the night, to gaze on the sight with renewed wonder and surprise.

As I laid myself down on my mat—fancying that the very ground which was my pillow shook beneath my head—the silent musings of my mind were:—"Great and marvelous are thy works, Lord, God Almighty! greatly art thou to be feared, thou King of saints!"

The next morning we prepared for a descent into the crater.

One of the few places where this is practicable was within a rod of the hut where we lodged. For the first four hundred feet the path was steep, and from the looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required caution in every movement. A slight touch was sufficient to detach these and send them bounding downwards hundreds of feet to the imminent danger of any one near them. The remaining distance of about the same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path having turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, which ran off in an inclined plain, until it met the ledge before described more than a quarter of a mile west of the place where we began the descent. Previous to our descent we had provided ourselves with long canes and poles, by which we might test the soundness of any spot before stepping on it, and immediately on reaching the ledge, we found the wisdom of the precaution. This offset is formed wholly of scoria and lava, mostly burned to a cinder and everywhere intersected by deep crevices and chasms, from many of which light smoke and vapor were emitted, and from others a scalding steam.

The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation, retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice, while the hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, sufficiently assured us of the unsubstantial character of the whole mass.

In some places by thrusting our stick down with force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep fissures, and holes apparently without bottom. These, however, were generally too small to appear dangerous. The width of this ledge is constantly diminishing in a greater or less degree, by the falling of large masses from its edges into the crater; and it is not improbable that in some future convulsion, the whole structure may yet be plunged into the abyss below.

Leaving the sulphur banks on the western side behind us, we directed our course along the northern part to the western cliff. As we advanced these became more and more perpendicular, until they presented nothing but the bare and upright face of an immense wall, from eight to ten hundred feet high, on whose surface huge stones and rocks hung apparently so loosely as to threaten falling at the agitation of a breath. In many places a white curling vapor issued from the sides and summit of the precipice, and in two or three streams of clay-colored lava, like some waterfall extending almost from the top to the bottom, had cooled evidently at a very recent period. At almost every step, something new attracted our attention, and by stopping sometimes to look up, not without a feeling of apprehension, at the enormous masses above our heads, at others to gain by a cautious approach to the brink of the gulf, a nearer glance at the equally frightful depth below; at one time turning aside to ascertain the heat of a column of steam and at another to secure some unique or beautiful specimen, we occupied more than two hours in proceeding the same number of miles.

At that distance from our entrance on the ledge we came to a spot on the western side, where it widened many hundred feet and terminated next the crater, not as in most other places, perpendicularly, but in an immense heap of broken slabs and blocks of lava, loosely piled together, as they had fallen in some convulsion of the mountain, and jutting off to the bottom in a frightful mass of ruin. Here we had been informed the descent into the depths of the crater could be most easily made, but being without a guide we were entirely at a loss what course to take, until we unexpectedly descried the gentlemen who had preceded us re-ascending. They dissuaded us most strenuously from proceeding further, but their lively representations of the difficulty and dangers of the way only strengthened our resolution to go down, and knowing that the crater had been crossed at this end, we hastened on, notwithstanding the refusal of the guide to return with us.

The descent was as perilous as it had been represented, but by proceeding with great caution, testing well the safety of every step before committing our weight to it, and often stopping to select the course which seemed least hazardous, in the space of about twenty minutes, by a zigzag way, we reached the bottom without any accident of greater amount than a few scratches on the hands from the sharpness and roughness of the lava, by which we had occasionally been obliged to support ourselves. When we were about half way down we were encouraged to persevere in our undertaking, by meeting a native who had descended on the opposite side and passed over. It was only however from the renewed assurance it gave of the practicability of the attempt, for besides being greatly fatigued, he was much cut and bruised from a fall; said the bottom was "ino-ino loaka wahi O debelo!"—"excessively bad the place of the devil!"—and could be prevailed on to return with us only by the promise of a large reward.

It is difficult to say whether sensations of admiration or of terror predominated, on reaching the bottom of this tremendous spot. As I looked up at the gigantic wall, which on every side rose to the very clouds, I felt oppressed to a most unpleasant degree, by a sense of confinement.

Either from the influence of imagination, or from the actual effect of the immense power of a noonday sun beating directly on us, in addition to the heated and sulphureous atmosphere of the volcano itself, I for some moments experienced an agitation of spirits, and difficulty of respiration, that made me cast a look of wishful anxiety towards our little hut, which, at an elevation of near fifteen hundred feet seemed only like a bird's nest on the opposite cliff. These emotions, however, soon passed off, and we began with great spirit and activity, the enterprise before us. I can compare the general aspect of the bottom of the crater, to nothing that will give a livelier image of it to the mind than the appearance of a lake would present, if the ice with which it was covered in the winter was suddenly broken up by a heavy storm, and as suddenly frozen again, while large slabs and blocks were still toppling and dashing and heaping against each other with the motion of the waves. Just so rough and distorted was the black mass under our feet, only a hundred fold more terrific, independently of the innumerable cracks, fissures, deep chasms and holes, from which sulphureous vapor, steam and smoke were exhaled, with a degree of heat that testified to the near vicinity of fire.

We had not proceeded far, before our path was intersected by a chasm at least thirty feet wide, and of greater depth than we could ascertain, at the nearest distance we dare approach. The only alternative was to return or follow its course until it terminated or became narrow enough to be crossed. We chose the latter, but soon met an equally formidable obstacle, in a current of smoke, so highly impregnated with a suffocating gas as not to allow of respiration. What a situation for a group of half a dozen men, totally unaware of the extent of peril to which they might be exposed! The lava on which we stood was in many places so hot, that we could not hold for a moment in our hands the pieces which we knocked off for specimens.

On one side lay a gulf of unfathomable depth, on the other an inaccessible pile of ruins, and immediately in front an oppressive and deadly vapor. While hesitating what to do, we perceived the smoke to be swept occasionally, by an eddy of the air, in a direction opposite to that in which it most of the time settled. And watching an opportunity, when our way was thus made clear, we held our breath and ran as rapidly as the dangerous character of the path would permit, until we had gained a place beyond its ordinary course. We here unexpectedly found ourselves also delivered from the other impediment to our progress; for the chasm abruptly ran off in a direction far from that we wished to pursue. Our escape from the vapor however was that which we considered the most important: and so great was our impression of the danger to which we had been exposed from it, that when we saw our way to the opposite side open, without any special obstacle before us, we felt disposed formally to return thanks to Almighty God for our deliverance. But before this was proposed most of our number had gone forward so far as to be out of call; and for the time the external adoration of the Creator, from the midst of one of the most horrible of his works, was reluctantly waived.

At an inconsiderable distance from us was one of the largest of the conical craters, whose laborious action had so greatly impressed our minds during the night; and we hastened to a nearer examination of it; so prodigious an engine I never expect again to behold. On reaching its base, we judged it to be one hundred and fifty feet high, a huge irregularly shapen, inverted funnel of lava covered with clefts, orifices, and tunnels, from which bodies of steam escaped with deafening explosion, while pale flames, ashes, stones, and lava, were propelled with equal force and noise from its ragged and yawning mouth. The whole formed so singularly terrific an object, that in order to secure a hasty sketch of it, I permitted the other gentlemen to go a few yards nearer than I did, while I occupied myself with my pencil. One of the company with his servant ascended the cone several feet, but found the heat too great to remain longer than to detach with their sticks, a piece or two of recent lava, burning hot. So highly was our admiration excited by the scene, that we forgot the danger to which we might be exposed should any change take place in the currents of destructive gas—which exists to a greater or less degree in every part of the crater—until one of the gentlemen, after two or three intimations of the propriety of an immediate departure, warned us in a most decided tone, not only as a friend, but as a professional gentleman, of the peril of our situation, assuring us, that three inspirations of the air by which we might be surrounded, would prove fatal to every one of us. We felt the truth of the assertion, and notwithstanding the desire we had of visiting a similar cone covered with a beautiful incrustation of sulphur, at the distance from us, of a few hundred yards only, we hastily took the speediest course from so dangerous a spot. The ascent to the ledge was not less difficult and frightful than the descent had been, and for the last few yards was almost perpendicular. But we all succeeded in safely gaining its top, not far from the path by which we had in the morning descended the upper cliff.

We reached the hut about two o'clock, nearly exhausted from fatigue, thirst and hunger, and had immediate reason to congratulate ourselves, on a most narrow escape from suffering and extreme danger, if not from death. For, on turning round, we perceived the whole chasm to be filling with thick sulphureous smoke; and within half an hour, it was so completely choked with it, that not an object below us was visible. Even where we were, in the unconfined region above, the air became so oppressive as to make us think seriously of a precipitate retreat. This continued to be the case for the greater part of the afternoon. A dead calm took place, both within and without the crater, and from the diminution of noise, and the various signs of action, the volcano itself seemed to be resting from its labors.

One of the company, during a morning ramble, had gathered two large buckets of fine strawberries, which made a delightful dessert at our dinner. The mountains of Hawaii are the only parts of the island on which this delicious fruit is found. A large red raspberry is also abundant on them; but even when fully ripe, it has a rough acid taste similar to that of an unripe blackberry. The flavor of the strawberry, however, is as fine as that of the same fruit in America.

Towards evening the smoke again rolled off to the south, before a fresh breeze, and every thing assumed its ordinary aspect. At this time we succeeded in getting sufficient data to calculate the height of the upper cliff; and made it nine hundred feet. If this be correct, it is judged that the height of the ledge cannot be less than six hundred feet; making the whole depth of the crater that which I have stated in the preceding pages, fifteen hundred feet. On similar grounds, the circumference of the crater at its bottom has been estimated at a distance of from five to seven miles; and at its top from eight to ten miles.

Greatly to our regret we found it would be necessary to set off on our return early the next morning; all the provisions of the natives being entirely expended. We could have passed a week here with undiminished interest, and wished to remain at least one day longer to visit the sulphur banks, which abound with beautiful chrystalizations, and to make some researches on the summit. We would have been glad also to have added to the variety of specimens already collected, especially of the volcanic sponge, and capillary volcanic glass, not found on the side of the crater where we encamped; but it was impossible; and we made preparations for an early departure. Just as these were completed, in the edge of the evening, another party from the same ship, consisting of about a dozen midshipmen arrived, with whom we shared our lodgings for the night.

The splendid illuminations of the preceding evening were again lighted up with the closing of the day; and after enjoying their beauty for two or three hours with renewed delight, we early sought a repose which the fatigue of the morning had rendered most desirable. The chattering of the islanders around our cabins, and the occasional sound of voices in protracted conversation among our own number, had however, scarcely ceased long enough to admit of sound sleep, when the volcano again began roaring, and laboring with redoubled activity. The confusion of noises was prodigiously great. In addition to all we had before heard, there was an angry muttering from the very bowels of the abyss, accompanied at intervals by what appeared the desperate effort of some gigantic power struggling for deliverance. These sounds were not fixed or confined to one place, but rolled from one end of the crater to the other; sometimes seeming to be immediately under us—when a terrible tremor of the ground on which we lay, took place—and then again rushing to the farthest end with incalculable velocity. The whole air was filled with tumult; and those most soundly asleep were quickly roused by it to thorough wakefulness. Lord Byron springing up in his cot exclaiming, "We shall certainly have an eruption; such power must burst through every thing!" He had barely ceased speaking, when a dense column of heavy black smoke was seen rising from the crater, directly in front of us, the subterranean struggle ceased, and immediately after flames burst from a large cone, near which we had been in the morning, and which then appeared to have been long inactive. Red hot stones, cinders, and ashes, were also propelled to a great height with immense violence; and shortly after the molten lava came boiling up, and flowed down the sides of the cone, and over the surrounding scoria, in two beautiful curved streams, glittering with indescribable brilliance.

At the same time a whole lake of fire opened in a more distant part. This could not have been less than two miles in circumference, and its action was more horribly sublime than any thing I ever imagined to exist, even in the ideal visions of unearthly things. Its surface had all the agitation of an ocean; billow after billow tossed its monstrous bosom in the air, and occasionally those from different directions burst with such violence, as in the concussion to dash the fiery spray, seemingly, forty and fifty feet high. It was at once the most splendidly beautiful, and dreadfully fearful of spectacles, and irresistibly turned the thoughts to that lake of fire, from whence we are told, the smoke of torment shall ascend for ever and ever.

No work of Him who laid the foundations of the earth, and who by his almighty power still supports them, ever brought to my mind the more awful revelations of his Word with such overwhelming impression. Truly, "With God is terrible Majesty!" Let all the nations say unto God, "How terrible art thou in thy works."

Under the name of Pele, this volcano was one of the most distinguished, and most feared of the former gods of Hawaii. Its terrific features, are well suited to the character and abode of an unpropitious demon; and few works in nature, would be more likely to impose thoughts of terror on the ignorant and superstitious, and from their destructive ravages lead to sacrifices of propitiation and peace. It is now rapidly losing its power over the minds of the people. Not one of the large number of our company, seemed to be at all apprehensive of it as a supernatural being.

After an almost sleepless night, we early turned our faces homeward, not without many a "lingering look behind," even at the very entrance of our path. It was precisely six o'clock when the last of our party left the brink.

Never was there a more delightful morning. The atmosphere was perfectly clear, and the air, with the thermometer at 56 degrees Fahrenheit, fine and bracing. A splendid assemblage of strong and beautifully contrasted colors glowed around us. The bed of the crater still covered with the broad shadow of the eastern banks was of jetty blackness. The reflection of the early sun, added a deeper redness to the western cliffs; those opposite were of a bright yellow, while the body of smoke rising between them, hung in a white drapery of pearly whiteness, against the deep azure of the southern sky. Mounaloa and Mounakea, in full view in the west, were richly clothed in purple; and the long line of intervening forest, the level over which we were passing, and the precipice by which it is encircled, thickly covered with trees and shrubbery, exhibited an equally bright and lively green.

CHAPTER VI.

Sail for the "Off shore ground." Cruise for Whale. Come to anchor at Payta. Desert the ship. Sufferings in the desert. Reach the human habitations. Are entertained by an old Spaniard, who takes us to St. Augustine, and delivers us up to the Governor. Thrown into a Calaboose. Released by the Captain. Sketch of Peru. Proceed to the Galapagos. Scenes at that group. Rock of Dundas. Sail to the Society Islands. Run upon the Coral Reef. Loose an anchor. Employ natives to dive for it. Proceed to the Coast of Japan. Description of the Dolphin and Flying Fish. A violent storm. Sail for the Sandwich Islands. Touch at Pitcairns. Desert the ship. Ship on board the brig Doll. Arrive at Magdalena. Proceed to Wytohoo. Phosphoretic scene. A heavy storm. Seven men lost. Flee to the boats. The ship runs upon the rocks.

On our return from the volcano, we took on wood, water, and other necessaries for the voyage, and stood for the "Off shore ground," or the Coast of Peru, where we cruised two months with the poorest luck. Sick at heart, we put into Payta, one of the ports of Peru.

The poor success which had attended us, caused the greatest dissatisfaction among the crew, yet none attributed it to the officers of the ship. Myself and two others concluded to try our luck in another way; together we formed a plan to leave the ship, secrete ourselves in the woods until her departure, we would then return to the shore, and see what chance would favor us with.

When we were allowed liberty on shore again, we took as much salt beef, bread, and water, as we could carry without detection, and started for the woods, which lay but a short distance from the shore; they were about two miles wide; beyond them lay an immense sand plain or desert, without bush or shrub of any kind. The light drifting sand soon obliterated all traces of life. On we wandered, hoping soon to reach the opposite side, but hope soon failed; we had lost sight of the woods: to retrace our steps was now utterly impossible—our footprints were no longer visible—we now realized the true character of our situation—parched with thirst—worn with fatigue—amidst an ocean of sand, where neither shrub, or cooling stream appeared to cheer the lonely wanderer. We sat ourselves sat down upon the burning sand, beneath a torrid sun, and partook of such as we had. The quantity of water being small, we were obliged to use it sparingly. The saltness of the meat greatly increased our thirst; we at length fell in with our own footprints, nearly filled with sand. We sat down in despair; the sun having now passed the meridian, served as a compass, which we followed, until it sank beneath the horizon; night came, and found us still hungry and shelterless. Having eaten our last morsel, and drank our last drop of water, we lay down upon the sand, fatigued almost beyond endurance; so excessive was our thirst, that we slept but very little. We spread our flannel shirts upon the sand, and when they were saturated with dew, (the dews of the country are very heavy, and supply the deficiency of rains, which seldom appear) we would wring them, and suck the moisture; this being often repeated, alleviated our thirst somewhat. No mind can form any description, or form to itself any definite idea of our situation. Most sincerely we repented the course we had taken, and anxiously sought to retrace our steps. With joy we welcomed the approach of morning, hoping that ere another day should pass, we should be able to find some means of rescue from our horrible situation. We traveled until mid-day, almost crazed with the heat of the sun upon the head; and our tongues were so swollen as to render our mouths hardly able to contain them. We sat down half inclined to give up, and leave our bones to whiten the sands. Driven to the last extremity, we resorted to the use of our own urine, for the alleviation of our thirst; this was repeated frequently. Summoning new courage, we started again: after wandering a long time, we fell in with the tracks of a horse or mule. So excessive was our joy at this discovery, that we almost forgot our fatigue, and bounded forward with delight. Our joy however, was soon at an end. for the tracks were obliterated, and we were as bad off as before, and worse even; for having seen the light, the darkness was still deeper. We found, and lost it alternately for some time. Night again spread her sable mantle around our wretchedness. With the closest scrutiny we followed the tracks; about midnight, (as near as we could judge), one of my companions, lustily as his swollen tongue and debilitated condition would allow, cried "land ahead," much to our joy. On we passed, and found it to be low shrubbery, about three feet high. Again we lost the tracks, but this we did not mind, so rejoiced were we to find any living thing.

Falling in with a small path, we followed it with the greatest avidity. As we went on, the path increased in size. Soon we heard the loud barking of a dog; never before was such a welcome so well received.

This induced us to quicken our pace, believing we were near habitations of some kind, little caring what. But a short time elapsed before we came upon a house, evidently the residence of a Spaniard. A few loud knocks at the door sufficed to arouse the inmates, who cried lustily in Spanish, "Who is there? what do you want?" Fortunately for us, one of our number understood the language sufficiently well to make our wants known. With the true generosity of the Spaniard his house was immediately opened, and we were welcome to such as he had, viz: dried beef and milk: this, to the half famished wanderer, was a repast of the choicest kind. Fatigued and enfeebled as we were, great was the danger of our eating too much: this, reason strongly pointed out to us, but appetite got the ascendency, and before we were aware of it we were in as great danger from excess as before from deprivation and fatigue. Again our host befriended us, rendering us all needed assistance. His repeated kindnesses induced us to place unlimited confidence in him; we told him of our deserting the ship, and of our future plans. He cunningly proposed, when we were sufficiently recovered, to take a ride to St. Augustine, which lay seventeen miles from Payta. We mounted the asses and proceeded on the way. When we arrived there we were given up to the governor as deserters, and confined. The Spaniard received a reward for delivering us up to the proper authorities. This we could not approve, though it was acting in conformity with the laws of his country. The next morning we were fitted out for Payta, guarded by six Spanish soldiers, all on asses. Our route lay along the coast, and was indeed very pleasant. Forgetting almost entirely our extreme suffering on the plain, we hardly realized that we were prisoners strongly guarded, so merrily we passed along. The soldiers were themselves very joyful.

On our arrival at Payta, we were thrown into prison for safe keeping. Our captain was then notified of our apprehension, and came to see us, and asked us if we were willing to go to our duty like faithful men. That we assured him we would most certainly do. Manifesting much indifference he turned away, saying he would see what the charges were, and think about releasing us. The prison into which we were thrown was of the most filthy kind; my mind recoils with horror at the thought of it. We passed the night without closing our eyes to sleep. Rats of enormous size were jumping around us all night, and anxiously we waited for morning. The next morning breakfast was served, consisting of jerk beef, brown bread, and cold water. So loathsome was the place that we would almost have rather starved than eaten there. Giving our allowance to our fellow-prisoners, we waited in anxious expectation for the re-appearance of the captain, expecting, or at least hoping he would bring a release. At length he came, having paid twenty-five dollars for us. We went on board again perfectly contented, having paid, as we thought, dearly as deserters.

I propose here giving a hasty geographical and historical sketch of Peru, but owing to the insufficient time allotted common sailors for getting any definite idea of the countries which they may visit, I shall be obliged to couple the statements of others with my own observation. The territory comprising it is 230,000 square miles in area. The Andes range of mountains extend through this country, the highest point of which is 22,000 feet above the valley of Chuquibamba. The celebrated volcano known as Omati has an elevation exceeding 18,000 feet. In the eastern Andes remains of mining excavations are found at an elevation of 16,600 ft. They were wrought by the Peruvians under the Incas, long before the arrival of the Spaniards. The entry to the gallery of San Miguel and of Pomare, is close to the region of eternal snow. Intersecting the country in different directions are other ranges of mountains, which do not properly belong to the Andes; these are of various extent and height. Exclusive of Peru proper, which is merely a narrow strip, and also of the various chains of mountains which contain between them broad and extensive valleys, watered by gigantic streams, this country contains immense plains, or pampas, as they are called by the Spanish, extending from Montana Real as far east as the Portuguese frontier 600 miles, in direct distance, and in some places in equal breadth. The Maranon rolls its mighty waters through the centre of this continental steppe; and these plains are so abundantly watered, that they are everywhere fertile, and clothed with impenetrable forests. The most noted of these plains contains more than 60,000 square miles; and is capable of supporting 5,000,000 inhabitants. It is called the "Steppe of the Holy Sacrament."

The mighty river Amazon, or Maranon, rises in this country, among the Andes, in a number of head streams. Those streams which empty into the Pacific, flowing from the western side of the Andes, are of but little importance, being quite small in size. The climate of the country is variable; that of the Coast or Low Peru, is dry and temperate; that of the Sierras mild, that of the Andes piercingly cold; and that of the Pampas warm, and exceedingly humid. The climate of the Sierras is perhaps the most healthy in the world, if we can judge from the long life of its inhabitants. Persons are often found living at the age of 120, and sometimes reach the extreme age of 150 years. A Spaniard died in the year 1765, in the province of Caxamarea, aged 144 years, 7 months, and 5 days, leaving 800 lineal descendants. But such extreme age is by no means common to the whole country. The climate of the Pampas is far from being healthy. The warmth and extreme humidity render them almost uninhabitable, and the few Indian tribes on the rivers rarely see a man of the age of fifty. In the uplands of this country, the soil is somewhat fertile, but owing to the almost insuperable barriers to communication with the coast, agriculture is generally speaking in a wretched state.

Abundance of cotton in a wild state is found in the Montana Real, and on the banks of the Maranon. Flax is common, but the Indians leave the stems to perish, and make a kind of beer of the seeds. In some districts a species of coffee, and cochineal abound, but the quality is not the best. The pimento of Peru is excessively strong, and there is cinnamon stronger than that of Ceylon, though not so valuable for use. A great variety of aromatic balsams, oils, and gums, distilled from the trees are produced here. In the description of Peru, Estalla enumerates the cedar, the olive, the wild orange, the incorruptible algorob, the palm, the willow, and many other trees. On the coast, and western slopes of the Andes, are produced the cabbage-palm, the cocoa-nut, the chocolate-nut, the cotton-shrub, the pineapple, tumeric, plantain, and sugar-cane. No less than twenty-four species of pepper are raised in Peru. Tobacco and jalap grow in abundance at the foot of the Andes. The chief shrubs on the uplands of the Andes are the different species of cinchonas, or the salutary Peruvian bark. The mountains abound in metalic wealth. They are interspersed with veins of gold and of silver ore, in which pieces of pure silver, solid copper, and lead ore occur, frequently intermixed with white silver ore, and virgin silver, in threads. In many parts are rich veins of gold ore in quartz, and gold is also obtained by washing the mud found in the beds of the rivers. Many of the silver mines are neglected, owing to their being inundated by water, which has continued to gain on them so as to completely choke them.

The principal silver mines were discovered in 1630, by an Indian shepherd, and though very badly wrought, they annually furnish near $2,500,000. These mines are usually called Pareo, and Cerro de Bombon. Humbolt calculates the produce of gold and silver at $6,000,000 annually. To this sum must be added the fraudulent exportation of silver, or what is denominated unregistered produce, on which no duty has been paid—this is estimated at $940,000.

Mercury is found is abundance in Peru, which is not the case in any other part of Spanish America. The other minerals are numerous. There are many obstacles, however, to successful mining in Peru. One great difficulty is the ignorance of the miners in the science of amalgamation. Another is the want of capital; the operator being in most cases, in necessitous circumstances, is obliged to borrow money on very exorbitant interest to enable him to commence his works, and to sell the produce of his mines at a great sacrifice, in order to carry them on. The labor of the mines is principally performed by the Indians, as they only are able to endure the fatigue and unwholesomeness of the employment.

The commerce of Peru consists for the most part in the interchange of the precious metals for foreign products, and manufactures; of which considerable quantities are imported. There is a great want of good roads and bridges in Peru; and in the little intercourse between the seaports and the interior of the country, almost every article of trade is carried on the backs of mules and lamas. The ancient Peruvians were partially civilized; they constructed numerous and excellent roads, and also built stone palaces of enormous size; were skilled in making vessels of gold and silver, and cultivated the land with much care.

At the time of the Spanish conquest, Peru comprised a territory of much greater dimensions, than the modern state of the same name. Its kings were a dynasty of princes, called Incas; they were supposed to be descended from the sun, and were held sacred and adored by the people. At the time Pizarro took possession of this country, the reigning Incas were put to death, and the dominion of the Spanish sovereign established. This occurred forty years after the discovery of America.

Peru with the other American provinces of Spain was long governed by Viceroys, appointed by the kings of that country; but in the year 1821, the people established a government of their own, and with the assistance of the Colombians achieved their independence in 1824, by the defeat of the last Spanish army at Ayachuco.

In the year 1836, Peru was divided into the states of North Peru, and South Peru, which with Bolivia, were formed in the Peru-Bolivian confederation, under a chief magistrate styled the Supreme Protector. Three years afterwards, the army of the confederation was defeated by the Chilians, at Uraguay, and the Republic was dissolved.

The Peruvians like the other people of South America, are composed of various races; the most numerous being the Creoles of European descent, and the Indians. There are many tribes of the Indians; they are much debased, and seldom cheerful. The Carapachas are exceedingly beautiful, and are said even to rival the Circassians; but their speech is very offensive, resembling the barking of dogs, owing to the guttural sounds. The women of some tribes are warlike. The Omagna tribe flatten the head, like some of the North American Indians. The Indians occupy the same place in society as in Mexico. They are idle, filthy, superstitious, and suspicious. Their dress and habitations are mean and poor; their capacities are very limited, and they have little variety of character. They are governed by native chiefs or caciques.

The gentlemen of Peru imitate the English fashion of dress, and the ladies also, except in a peculiar walking dress, composed of a close petticoat of satin, &c., with a short cloak of silk drawn around the waist, and over the breast and head, half concealing the face. This dress is peculiar to Lima; the petticoat is elastic, and sets close enough to reveal the form. The hood, or manto, is probably a Moorish remnant. The dwellings of the Indians are mere huts, and generally architecture is in a much lower state than in Mexico. The roofs are flat, and the walls are often of wattled cane, plastered. The languages are the Spanish, and those of the Indians. The food does not essentially differ from that in the other South American States; and tobacco is very extensively used. There is little veal or lamb, and many sweetmeats are consumed. A fermented liquor, called chicha is made of maize, and used to considerable extent. The diseases are not peculiar. To travel in Peru, is a severe hardship and privation; the mule is much used. This animal is invaluable from its cautious instinct in passing the defiles or sides of the mountains, where a misstep would cast them to a measureless distance below. In many places where they cannot step, they protrude their feet, and slide downwards, directing their course with the utmost sagacity. It is not safe for the rider to assume any guidance over them, when he is riding with one leg over a precipice, while the other rubs against the side of the mountain.

The hospitality of the Peruvians has no limits, and like the others of European descent in South America, they are distinguished for their paternal and filial virtues. The Creole ladies are good mothers, and wives, and almost every family is a happy circle. Dancing, music, tertulias, bull-fights, and cock-fighting are the common amusements. The negro slaves receive kind treatment, and are instructed in the christian religion. It is common to see the white children thus instructing those of a household. Education is little attended to, but more than under the old government. The ruling religion is the Roman Catholic.

There is no country whose history is more interesting than Peru. Leaving Peru we stood for the Gallapagos, which lie off the coast about 200 miles, and form a considerable group intersected by the equator; though many of them are small, and covered with forests. Turtle are found here in great abundance, and of enormous size. Dodging about for a few days, we took three small whale; this place is famous as the resort of the sperm whale in the time of its having its young, being perfectly adapted to it. Soon as the young is born, it mounts the fin of its mother, and rides safely away. After the oil was tried, and stowed, the ship cleaned, &c., we put two boats in readiness, and rowed away for the shore in quest of turtle, or turpin, (a species of turtle;) we landed on a beautiful, low, sandy beach, a short distance from the shore; high craggy cliffs arose destitute of almost all verdure save the prickly pear bush, which grows to about the size of the American quince bush; the fruit is of a bright red, is covered with sharp, piercing prickles like the gooseberry: much difficulty arises in removing them; the fruit is most delicious; the trees and leaves are also covered with the same sharp hard prickles. We ascended the cliff, and wandered around an hour or two, and found nothing, save a few guana, an animal of the lizard appearance, though much larger. Many times they are found four or five feet long. The flesh is very tender, sweet and delicate, and is of great note among the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, as a fancy dish. Fell in with a large turpin, the first one any of us ever saw; when we came up with him, he retreated within his shell; we turned him over upon his back, to see his agility in turning himself back; he ran out his long neck, which was not less than two feet and a half long, and with his short legs labored most assiduously; he at length accomplished his object; this done, we laid hold of his legs, which were not more than six inches long, and started for the boat; when we came to a steep point in the path, we would place him upon the edge of his shell, and set him rolling,—many times a long way. After toiling a long time, we reached the boat. Soon others, who had gone in a different way, returned richly laden; they found one so very large, they were unable to bring it until divested of its shell. About thirty were taken during the few days we remained at this island. Getting ready we proceeded to sea, ran close to the rock of Dundas. This is a monumental rock of black granite, rearing its head eighty or an hundred feet above the water. The water around it is about sixty fathoms deep; the currents are such, that it is utterly impossible for ships to float or be driven against it; the sides are so bold that it cannot be ascended; boobys and other birds are always perched upon the top. The wind being light, we lowered our boat and set lines for fishing; divided the seven lines between two boats, and in a couple of hours took about 400 large red fish, called by the seamen snappers; as fast as the lines could be set the fish were caught. We salted the principal part of them; we left the place and proceeded on our way, the wind and weather was most beautiful. Smoothly we glided along at the rate of four or five knots an hour, bound for the Society Islands. Fell in with a large number of whale going north; lowered away the boats; took seven, and had them alongside at dark: the ship was hove too, and the next morning the oil was tried; had 105 barrels.

Passing Otaheite, we came abreast of the harbor of Emer; the high points of land on both sides becalmed us so we were obliged to lower our boats and take the ship in tow; we brought her into the harbor, and hove her anchor to keep her off the coral reef, which lay close under our lee. Before the sails could be furled, the ship was covered with females who had swam to her. Whether the use of the boats is forbidden them I know not, yet I presume such is the fact, with regard to this as well as to other islands; at any rate, during our stay I did not see any of them in a boat. Here we procured wood and water, and had liberty on shore; during our stay two men left the ship. Having once myself suffered much as a deserter, I chose to stay. When ready to leave, we hove up the anchor, and not having room enough for our vessel to cast, or turn, she ran directly upon the coral reef; we let go an anchor, but not in time to have it avail us any thing; then unshackling the chain, we lowered the kedge into a boat, carried it out astern the length of the line, and let her go; hauling away upon the line, hove the ship off to a proper distance, and let go another anchor. We next went on shore to get divers to go for the anchor we first let go; the one first obtained was a young man altogether unexperienced in the art; his first dive proved ineffectual; when he came to the surface, the blood gushed from his nostrils in streams, and was with much difficulty stopped. The second one took his small line and succeeded in attaching it to the ring of the anchor; again diving, taking a large hawser with him, he fastened the small line to it, and again came to the surface; then with the small one, drew the hawser through the ring, and brought it to the ship's side. Veering away upon the hawser, we brought the ship directly over the anchor; manning the windlass, we hove the ship to her berth again; loosing down upon the anchor again, with the hawser veered away, and again brought the ship's bow directly over it, and hauled it to the water's edge, then hooking the cat-block secured it to the ship. Putting all things in readiness, we set sail; several days elapsed before we knew whither we were bound; at length the captain informed us that we were going to the Coast of Japan. A long time elapsed before we even saw the spout of a whales. Passing the meridian we fell in with a school of whale; took about 100 barrels of oil. Saw no more until off the coast of Japan.

While on our way we took fish of many kinds, caught many dolphins, one of the beautiful inhabitants of the sea. "The general length of this fish appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears little resemblance to the representation of it seen on vases and in marine emblems and armorial bearings, but is very similar to the white salmon-trout of the Otsego. When swimming in the water its colors appears exceedingly delicate and beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the sides, vary from the hues of burnished steel to that of deep azure and mazarine blue, shading off in the under parts in pea-green and light yellow. One was struck with a harpoon and brought on deck, and we all hastened to witness the reported splendor of its colors when dying. We found them to be as truly beautiful as they have been described; consisting of rapid transitions from the deepest purple approaching to black, through blue, green, gold of different hues, and several shades of silver, to an almost snow white, and then to purple again. The sight however was painful, from a kind of sympathy with the beautiful sufferer, we could but feel that the gratification of our curiosity was at the expense of its life. The colors soon became less and less brilliant, and in five minutes entirely disappeared."

The flying fish also attracted much attention. Many of them were taken as they flew on deck. They are of a slender proportion, about six inches long; they sometimes spring into the air even to the height of sixteen or eighteen feet, and swim horizontally through the air twenty or twenty-five feet, when they again fall into their native element. When under the surface they are incessantly pursued by dolphins, and while in the air they become the prey of sea gulls and other sea fowls, which are hovering over the sea in quest of food.

A person ignorant of their nature would suppose them birds of small size, for like swallows they move by thousands in a right line, and always in a direction opposite that of the waves.

At the island of Niphon we took several whale and blackfish; we also spoke several whale ships while cruising there.

One day while in company with the ships, we saw a large school of whales at a distance. The boats were immediately lowered and all gave chase. We only took one, while some took two or three. One was taken along side and preparation made for boiling the oil. While in the midst of it a heavy squall arose from the northeast blowing like a perfect hurricane, threw our ship upon her beam ends, and sent the oil out of the pots, which were full, on to the men, severely scalding them.

Every thing movable was capsized. Those below, thinking the vessel was going down, came hurriedly upon deck with horror most visibly depicted on their countenance. For some time all stood still, momentarily expecting the next moment would see us engulphed beneath the billows.

Fortunately for us our sails were all stowed, as is customary in the time of boiling the oil, except a close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. The fore-sail was hauled up soon as possible, and the helm seized by one of the officers.

The violence of the wind abated somewhat, when the rain came down in torrents, accompanied by lightning and thunder.

The gale continued from the N. E. about six hours, when it suddenly shifted to the opposite point of the compass and blew, if possible, with redoubled energy, another six hours. The vessel creaked most terribly in her struggles, her lee gunwales in the water, and the sea breaking yard arm high.

The captain thought proper at this time to lighten her of her top hamper. We were obliged to mount the masts to a distance of seventy or eighty feet, and when there, with every swell of the sea we would be carried with great velocity through a space of eighty or a hundred feet.

The screams of those below, as they tried to make themselves heard, came to our ears, borne upon the tempest, like the shrieks of the dying. The mast and yards being let go eased her considerably, though the storm raged with unabated fury.

Never before had I seen the sea presenting such an awful spectacle. "The fearful commotion which it was under was indeed indescribably sublime, yet was too dreadfully terrific, when at its height, to allow of much enjoyment. When it evidently begins to abate, and hope tells you the worst is passed, you are left to the indulgence of unmingled and enthusiastic admiration, and may gaze with delight at the ever varying scene, as wave after wave rears its monstrous head 'and casts its foaming horrors to the clouds.'

"But, till this change does take place—while every successive blast blows harder and harder, and each billow threatens more surely than its precursor, to bury you under its weight,—it is impossible. Thoughts of fear must check, if they do not take entire place of the higher feelings of admiration."

At length the fury of the tempest abated; we finished trying the oil, made sail and stood for the Sandwich Islands. Nothing of note occurred while on the passage.

Reached Maui the first of October, 1834. Having cut my foot on the passage, I was put under the charge of a resident physician, where I remained fourteen days. At the expiration of that time we took our departure from the island and stood away for the Navigators' Islands, cruising for whales, though taking only a few, and those very small.

Cruising among the different groups, we reached Pitcairn's Island in the month of December.

This island is noted as being the residence of Alexander Smith, alias, John Adams, one of the Mutineers of the ship Bounty, which was fitted out and sailed from England in 1787, for Otaheite, to procure the bread fruit tree and other trees and plants, which were to be introduced into the West Indies as articles of food.

Having procured a supply, they sailed for their destined port, and while off the Friendly isles the spirit of mutiny was breathed forth, the vessel seized, and the officers bound. One of the ship's boats was then lowered away, the officers and eighteen such as were not wanted put in, also a quantity of provisions and rum, a compass, and articles of clothing, blankets, &c., were allowed them, and the boat sent adrift.

The mutineers, twenty-five in number, then proceeded to Otaheite, where a dissension took place and sixteen left the ship. The remaining nine, with six Otahitean men and twelve women, proceeded to Pitcairn's Island, where again domestic broils and assassinations ensued, and all of the Otaheitean men, and all the Englishmen, except two, fell. They established a code of laws by which they were governed. Smith, who changed his name to Adams, procured from the ship a bible and prayer-book, served as teacher or guide, enforcing the most strict discipline. His word was law. This teacher died in 1829, being the last male that landed there, the other who survived the broils and desertions, having died some time previous.

The number on the island at the death of the patriarch Adams was about eighty.

At the island of Rohanah, of the Friendly Islands, myself and one other were prompted by the poor success we had had to again leave the ship. This was put in force the day previous to the departure of the ship. When we went on shore with the boat's crew, we fled to the mountains.

Having collected a few boughs together and built a hut, we went in quest of food, being very careful about breaking down the grass so as to form a path, lest the natives would find us. Obtained a quantity of bananas, plantains, and oranges, also a calabash of water. The next morning, quite to our delight, we saw from our mountain retreat the ship, with all canvass to the breeze, gliding swiftly from the harbor.

We came down upon the beach among the natives, who treated us kindly, urging us to partake of their simple fare.

There were two Europeans, one from Ireland, the other from England, who had long been residents there.

We remained there seventeen days, when the brig Doll arrived there from Otaheite. She was cruising among the different groups for seals. They being in want of hands, I shipped myself as seaman. I informed my companion of my engagement, also of their want of more, when he deridingly said, "when he went to sea he should go in a ship."

The vessel was indeed one not at all prepossessing in its appearance, being old and poorly rigged, still I was willing to try my chance in her.

Necessary preparations being made we set sail. Our crew was composed of ten Europeans, and six natives of the Society Islands. All things passed along very finely indeed, and in a few days we made the island of Magdalena, one of the Marquesas group. We knew the murderous cruelty of the inhabitants, still we proposed landing; and put the boats in readiness. When we came near the shore, the natives rushed in numbers to the bank, yelling and screaming most horridly, holding a human skull and other bones in their hands, which they brandished about, defying our attempts to land.

Finding it useless to parley with them, we put back to the ship, and squaring our yards, stood around to the north end of Wytohoo and entered the straits that separate Wytohoo from Dominica, at a distance of from seven to twelve miles. Running through the straits we came abreast of the harbor long known as Resolution Bay. It being now near night, the captain thought proper to lay off and on during the night, and go on shore in the morning.

That night we witnessed one of the most sublime spectacles I ever witnessed—what is termed a phosphorific illumination.

"The horizon in every direction presented a line of uninterrupted light, while the wide space intervening was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of our vessel appeared kindling to a blaze, and as our bows occasionally dashed against a wave, the flash of the concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and illuminated every object along the whole length of the ship. By throwing any article overboard a display of light and colors took place surpassing in brilliancy and beauty the finest exhibition of fire-works.

"A charming effect was produced by a line coiled to some length, and then cast into the water at a distance, and also by a bucket of water dashed from the side of a vessel. The rudder, too, by its motions created splendid corruscations at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our track was marked far behind us. The smaller fish were distinctly traceable by running lines showing their rapid course, while now and then broad glimmerings, extending many yards in every direction, made known the movements of some monster of the deep.

"But minuteness will only weary without conveying any adequate impression of the scene. It would have been wise perhaps only to have said that it was among the most sublime nature herself ever presents."

At eleven that evening a strong breeze arose from the west-southwest, which strengthened with each succeeding moment, until it ripened into a perfect gale.

We made sail to get clear of the land. They were no sooner spread, than torn from the yards by the wind with a noise like thunder. Many a pale face and trembling lip were there. Before us, and under our lee were nothing but high and craggy rocks, to which we were rapidly hastening, with seemingly no chance of escape.

THE SHIP RUSHED UPON THE ROCKS WITH A MIGHTY CRASH.

The wind rushing through the rigging so furiously, rendered all attempts to be heard fruitless.

The lightning's incessant flashing, accompanied by loud thunder, rendered our situation the most appalling. Each moment brought us nearer the rocks.

Our second mate, Mr. Anderson of England, lowered the larboard boat, with six men, (they were the Otahiteans, who eagerly rushed into the boat,) beside himself, which no sooner touched the water than they found a watery grave. Their shrieks were heard and moved our hearts to pity, but the hands that gladly would have rendered them assistance, were palsied. They were beyond our reach. We saw the waves sweep over them, as the wind moaned their requiem.

The anchor being let go served to swing the vessel around, head to the wind, and in some degree to check her progress.

This being considered a favorable moment, the captain instantly lowered away his boat with the remaining eight, (one having been lost overboard in the early part of the gale,) in safety. But we were only just in season, for a moment after the ship parted from her anchor, and rushed upon the rocks with a mighty crash.

So complete was the wreck that scarce one plank was left upon another.

We lay in the harbor from two o'clock, A. M. until day, keeping under the point for shelter from the blast, about a mile from where the vessel struck.

CHAPTER VII.

Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of the Tabu ground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of building. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken around to the other tribes. Death of one of our number from the sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of.

The next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on shore. As we reached the beach, found it lined with natives. Seeing no weapons, we asked by signs for permission to land. This was readily obtained.

The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives was formed on each side, who laid hold of the gunwales and carried boat and crew up about twice the length of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it down. The treatment that was in store for us was quite a query.

Getting out of the boat we were examined from head to foot, being turned around and around, they during the survey chattering among themselves with great volubility.

They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu ground, and were a long time in consultation, leaving us standing by ourselves on the beach. The tabu ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with posts which are wound around with the inner or fine bark of a tree called Tappa, which is thin and white.

It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground around. Against this bark flat stones about two feet long are set on the end, nearly as thick as they can stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross legged on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made of flat stones, on which the food at the time of the grand feast is placed. All public business is transacted here.

RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.

THE TABU GROUND.

After a while they came running very fast towards us. By this we were fearful they intended us no good, but we were happily disappointed. They seemed fully to realize the nature of our situation, and immediately set themselves about ameliorating our condition and rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of such as they had—bread fruit—banannas—raw fish, &c. Of the vegetables we ate plentifully; the raw fish being an entirely new dish, we passed it lightly by.

Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and put at different families, where all seemed touched by the spirit of sympathy for our sufferings.

The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with the Prua (or king) and chiefs repaired to the boats, and rowed around the point, about three miles, to where the vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so complete was the wreck that there was not enough left of her to leave even the least trace of a ship discernible.

The rocks against which she struck were not low and shelving, as is many times the case, but high and bold, rising about fifty feet perpendicularly, and ranging a mile or two along the coast. The water at the very base is from fifty to seventy feet deep, thus leaving no place whatever for any thing to remain on them.

Returning, our boat was taken as before, and landed above the washing of the sea, and when we got out, was turned over and the oars laid by for safety.